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View Full Version : Battery pack with Deans is too big...?


mardigan
10-18-2002, 02:30 AM
Ok so I just built my first battery pack for my XXX-T MF and the thing won't fit.

I used Sanyo 3000HV batteries and Dean's ProBar 3's. The bars hit on one side of the channel in the XXX-T and the batts won't sit flat. I think I did a good job with the soldering. Are these bars just too big? Should I flatten them out a little or go to a different bar?

Thanks...

AudiTT-Quattro
10-18-2002, 03:33 AM
Although Associated cars usually have tighter battery space, you should be able to fit them.

Make sure, you did not bend any battery bars when soldering and that the bar is really close to the ends of the battery.

Is that all that won't fit?

LasagnaCat
10-18-2002, 06:01 AM
I've never tried the Probar 3, but we've used the 2's (on nimh packs) without any problems. You don't want to flatten the bar out, the bends in it are designed specifically to fit the shape of the cells. If those bars are like the 2's they should have a polarity marked on them so they'll fit right when they're in place. They most likely won't just drop loosely into place in the tray, so if it touches when it's in that's okay as long as you're not having to use excessive force getting it in or out. Just make sure you have the little 'stickers' that come with the kit installed on the sides of the battery channel so the pack isn't shorting out against the graphite and it should be fine. After the pack is done if it's not lying completely flat I just place the pack on a flat surface and warm the offending solder joints on the side until the cells fall flat against the surface. You should be able to get it perfectly flat that way without completely losing any of the joints. I put single cell heatshrink on the packs before I start, so after it's together and perfectly flat I shoe goo or CA the cells together and let it dry - then you can go back and touch up any solder joints that might not be perfect after the 'flattening' process... If you aren't using one, even the cheapo $8 plastic battery jig is a big help in getting things close the first time..

mardigan
10-18-2002, 12:12 PM
If I can't get it, I'll post a few pictures tonight. I used a Dean's jig for the assembly and the bars are tight against the batteries. The bars seem to have too much of an arch to them.

Gonna go to the track on Saturday as well and see what some of the veterans are doing.... I am such a noob

LasagnaCat
10-18-2002, 12:30 PM
I just nosed around and found a website that has a picture of the ProBar 3's, they do seem to have a much more pronounced hump than the 2's. The ones we have with the 2's are snug in our XXX's, but they do fit - that extra little bit is apparently enough to cause problems. If that's the case then you were already on the right track... you most certainly won't hurt anything if you have to flatten them down a bit to make them fit. We used to have to use flexible battery braid that was straight as a board when you soldered it and that worked fine. On a side note, the only place you have to be *REALLY* concerned with the bars being as flush as possible is if you have an E-Maxx - they don't give you ANY room for error in the battery trays, to the point where it's almost a design flaw..

24601
10-18-2002, 04:56 PM
I have had that same problem with the deans. I use the orion bars now (with the x shape) I won't use the deans any more.

baih
10-18-2002, 10:20 PM
i checked my 3000hv and i did flatten the probar 2.0 just a little. i checked the fit in my xxx and xxxt and they are not tight. email me direct and i will send you pics of my battery.
baih@pacbell.net