What do you think about airplane fuel in a car?

[RCLuvit]

Just want to get some opinions about doing this. I just bought real low nitro SIG 5% fuel with 20% oil 50/50, because I'm unemployed with nitro toys. Anyways my OS RG .21 seems to like it ok, I had to lean it a little but still lots of smoke, part to do with the fact that it has 50% castor oil in the fuel. Engine didn't get too hot and it ran with less power obviously, and I only paid $13.00 for the fuel. Just bashin' around not racing, so what do you think?

[hpiguy]

My opinion about this isn't very popular to the Nitro purists but I use "airplane" fuel in ALL my nitros. From my actual airplanes to my nitro race cars.

Seeing as the people that say use "car" fuel only in cars have not ever proven that airplane fuel hurts a car engine. NOBODY has done any longevity tests of either engines with either fuel. It's all just conjecture and hearsay and abig does of marketing jargon thrown in.

When you compare the ingredients in car and airplane fuel from the same manufacturers they usually come out the same. 12% oil 10% nitro, and 88% alcohol with small amounts or rust inhibitor and anti foaming agents on average. So please tell me how one can be better than the other when the only difference is that one bottle from the SAME fuel maker says cars and one says planes?

I can tell you my experience with using Tower Hobbies brand 10% nitro fuel in ALL my vehicles:

In 15 years I have never seized or worn out and engine prematurely using this fuel. Seeing as my engines last just as long if not longer than most people that use "car" fuel last I must be doing something right.

I say as long as the oil content is 12% or above and you run the engine modestly (not balls out lean) then you will have no problem with airplane fuel.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by RCLuvit
Engine didn't get too hot and it ran with less power obviously, and I only paid $13.00 for the fuel.

You've seen just about the only side effects of using airplane fuel. The only other downside to it is the extra castor (I believe...and not synthetic, but could be the other way around) causes extra tarnish build-up on engine parts if a leak occurs.

[RCLuvit]

Castor leaves deposits but is much better a preventing wear.

[rocknbil]

It's not recommended because of the range of abuse a ground vehicle is likely to endure. There is a much larger percentage of enthusiasts that get into RC via ground vehicles than aircraft. Most of them run way lean and are constantly in search of more power, which causes them to persue higher nitro content. Additionally a ground vehicle has to deal with higher load and a lot less cooling than an aircraft. For all these reasons the fuel manufacturers formulate their car fuel to give an engine a little better chance at life. :D

Someone with experience can make it work, but hand a bottle of aircraft fuel to an inexperienced hobbyist or someone that likes to run lean and mean, and I'll give them about a half a tank before it seizes up! :)

[ChristianZx]

What about using all synthetic heli fuel (30% nitro, 18-20% oil)? I buy this by the case and it would be much more convenient to be able to use it for my nitro truck as well.

[Madmann135]

I once ran Airplane fuel (15% nitro and 20% oil) I was not happy. I had to replace the Con. rod. The piston was lickly anle to be salvaged.

[RCLuvit]

I've used all kinds of car fuels and have added castor oil to them and even T-plus, which is the same as Slick 50 but they don't make it anymore, anyways, I'd put about an ounce and a half into my gallon and shake it in every time I'd fill my fuel bottle (because as you know petroluem base does not mix with methanol). Sounds nuts ey? I put like 6 gallons through my OS RG .21 and it still runs great! I don't quite understand why your engine destroyed your connecting rod and you could still salvage your piston? What brand of fuel? Were you running it too lean? Car fuels seem to always has less castor oil, castor oil is actually better oil, just more messy and it does leave some deposits (typically after a long time of running and some even think that castor deposits may be helpful by coating the piston with some protection). Wear prevention characteristics of castor are documented superior to synthetic.

Airplane engines 8,000 to 12,000 rpm typically ABC or ABN
Car engines 25.000 to 38.000 rpm typically ABC or ABN

Seems like car engines could use a little bit of extra protection. Unless of course you are racing, then you'll probably want to use ultra fast mouse blue super 25% nitro mega fuel, of course you'll also probably get about a gallon or so through it before you are ready for a new piston sleeve, right? Just bashin' around, I've always added oil to my fuel and I have an OS engine that likes me very much.

As for 100% synthetic, I wouldn't personally run that in any of my engines, I have a Nexus .30, 3 cars, 2 planes, and a swamp buggy. I believe there should always be about 30/70 castor/synth. in the fuel unless you are really worried about the mess.