Tamiya M-04L forum

[StevePond]

Thread start at the request of Redneck.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well i have M04L with the TL01 arms... kinda like the LSA mod hehe:D

[CarterTG]

Hooray! A dedicated M04L thread!!! Thanks SteveP.

OK.. to add some "meat" to the thread, some random observations..

2002 Tamiya Championship Series races both in California (http://www.tamiyausa.com/events/tcs/tcsfinals02/index.html) and Japan (http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/twc2002/twc_report_1.htm) had it's mini-chassis classes won by M04L entries. :D No word on how many entries in that racing grid were composed of M03 and M02 competitors.

I've built two, keeping one -- and lost track of how many roadster shells I've painted. An additional kit sits NIB collecting dust. You can say I'm a fan.

It's a typical Tamiya kit out-of-the-box.. fun to build, runs fine for beginners and takes quite a bit of abuse. Rear-wheel drive takes a bit more skill to drive compared to the Front-drive M03, but some of that oversteering ought to help on twistier tracks.

After a period of playing with the stock kit, I've started doing some upgrading & fixes... I'm mostly tinkering, experimenting, & learning for now. When the 2003 TCS comes around the 'hood, I'll try to set things to race-legal form. My mods include:

Ball Bearings A definite must for any r/c car. Didn't bother touching the stock nylon bushings. Anyone wanna buy a fresh, unused set of bushings? ;)

Swaybars (#53382) This was also added while the kit was being assembled. They're fairly stiff bars. If it weren't for trying to keep it TCS-legal, I'd tinker with bending a set of softer bars to make the action a bit more supple. Not sure why, but Tower has stopped carrying this upgrade to the still-current M04L kits.

Shocks I replaced the stock friction-piston dampers with ill-fitting Associated oil shocks -- those will get swapped out for #53280 oil-filled Tamiya dampers as soon as I snag a good deal. In retrospect, the stock friction dampers, although crude, DID seem to provide the right amount of preload and sag in the rear.

Ball Bearing Differential (#53267) This was initially added primarily because both the M04Ls I built exhibited a hook to the left only under heavy accelleration. I blamed it on the stock planetary gear diff, but the ball diff didn't do much to cure it. Neither did experimenting with different tires. In any case, this upgrade gave the ability to limit the differential action which in turn ought to decrease the oversteer in corners.

That acceleration-hook problem was finally clear when I put the chassis on a cutting board grid. The extension piece in front of the gearbox assembly has worn at the mounting points causing the entire rear end to point in a different drive vector. I fixed this by swapping-in the Toe-In Rear Uprights (#53345). The plastic is molded to increase toe-in to 2.0 degrees. No more accelleration-hook problem.

No sense in hiding the fact that this entry-level kit will develop some slop in the steering system. Fortunately, it's pretty easy to remedy but requires two fixes. First, some slop comes from the plastic-on-plastic suspension arms. I nearly used up an entire set of Kyosho shims (#96643) to fix this, but if officials get nitpicky about this, I think there's now the option of using the newly released shims from Tamiya.(#53586 & #53587)

The second half of the fix uses the Hi-Torque Servo Saver (#50473) to replace the stock plastic servo saver. I would estimate over 2/3rds of the steering slop can be eliminated just from this upgrade. Now my steering feels really crisp with a very noticeable improvement in turn-in.

The latest tweak I performed was relocating the receiver and ESC. I don't think there was anything in the TCS rules that prohibited this. The assembly manual has them located on top of the chassis. Mine now straddle the sides of the chassis aside the steering servo.. every little bit counts, right?

Future upgrades will include shedding some weight with a set of Titanium screws and maybe replacing the steel shafts in the gearbox with carbon ones. At the last Hobby Show, Tamiya released a set of aluminum steering knuckles (#53523). Not sure if the upgrade is worth the added weight though. Another questionable upgrade is the Aluminum Motor Heat Sink (#53389). As far as I can tell, it BARELY has any direct contact with the motor as it sits on the OTHER side of a plastic gearbox part. If I'm wrong, someone elaborate.

Right now, the car's outfitted with it's old stock motor and a Futaba MC230CR ESC. I had temporarily put a P2K-2 Pro rebuildable stock motor in it and clocked it (camcorder & math)topping 25mph. A nice jump from the Mabuchi's original 16mph.

I can't wait till the weather warms back up when I can really test these cumulative mods on asphalt.

How 'bout it, any other decked-out M04Ls other than TA03DH and myself?

Here's a shot of some M04L owners racing at the parking lot of BMW's roadster factory in Greenville, SC...

[SARacer]

was there ever a short wheelbase mo4?

[TRF Drive Hard]

No there was not;)

[ZipDrive]

I know this is a M04L thread...

But being that the M class is so so so appealing i want to learn some more b4 i jump in.

Can you guys help me out?

besiides length.....what differences between M03L....M04L ????

I want to make an educatd deciion and not kill myself for making a stupid mistake.....

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by ZipDrive
besiides length.....what differences between M03L....M04L ????

Read the entire thread titled Tamiya Mini Cooper also located in this same section. Several posts there already describe the M-chassis family.

[CarterTG]

A few shots of my runner with most of the planned upgrades. Haven't had a chance to roadtest it yet, but the weather should warm up soon enough.

[CarterTG]

Another angle...

[CarterTG]

Last two hop-ups included a high-speed S9550 steering servo and oil shocks from a TA04 Pro. The TA04's stock springs were waaay too much though, so the original springs were reinstalled. Now the suspension has a nice, adjustable damping action matched with what seems to be (for now) the right springs. If I needed to tweak further, I'd opt for the 53571 Fluorine TRF dampers as it compresses shorter for more suspension travel. The low-profile digital servo was the last key component to lower the overall C.o.G.

[djm914-6]

Hey all,
How does this car perform (for an entry level kit)? There are a bunch of Porsche guys I know getting this chassis for a new body we're importing. I've been reccomending the M-04L over the M-02L soley on the extra "shocks". Any tips on building for better performance? Has anyone used the stock MSC?

Thanks,
Dave

PS: I have a ton of Carson Porsche 914/6GT bodies coming in to the country for the first time if anyone is interested.

[djm914-6]

One more question, what size tires fit the stock rims? Actually I would prefer the M-02L Porsche rims with mich stickier tires. Any suggestions?

[CarterTG]

The boxster wheels that came in the M02L Tamiya kit are 26mm wide. There are aftermarket slicks (http://www.hpiracing.com/tires/tire-tc.htm#B15-40) that are applicable. Tamiya's own Type-A slicks should also be considered.

I've gotta ask tho'... did you REALLY verify the width & wheelbase measurements of the Carson shell? I find it hard to believe that Carson specifically molded their shell to fit an M02L/M04L rather than fit a more "universal" sized 1:10th chassis.

Universal 1:10th chassis (TC3,TA04,XXX-S,EVO3) have a 259mm wheelbase and a width of 185-190mm.

The M02L and M04L chassis have a 239mm wheelbase and are 174mm wide.

[Cube]

This car was really fun when I had it, the only reason I sold it was because of major understeer, mainly due to the boldish tyres upfront:D:rolleyes:

[SteveK]

Carson and Tamiya are closely related in Europe, that might be a tip-off about the Carson body fitting the M04.

Will the M02 bodies like the Boxter, SLK, and Carrera fit the M04L? The specs from Tamiya.com look the same, but I wasn't sure. What other bodies will fit? I have an M03, but the M04 looks interesting too, and the cars are a good size for small driveways.

BTW- How can it be the M04L if there is no M04 with a shorter wheelbase?

[djm914-6]

The German Carson website has a lot of Tamiya crossover. The 914 body looks like it will fit the long M chassis' either M-02L or M-04L. I may indeed pick up the Tamiya Boxster and Carrera bodies as well. When these bodies were first posted on the email lists and Boards that I frquent, a lot of new interest was generated. While I've been in the hobby since 1984, I have many people never into the hobby asking me question about which cars and equipment to buy. With 500 of these bodies comming in soon, I think hobby shops will soon sell out of these beginner chassis.

Anyone in the PA area interested in making a few bucks this month at Hershey Park?

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by SteveK
Will the M02 bodies like the Boxter, SLK, and Carrera fit the M04L?

Attached picture should answer that. Wheelbase, width, and even body posts are the same across both M02L and M04L.

BTW- How can it be the M04L if there is no M04 with a shorter wheelbase?

There's no M04 with a 225mm wheelbase simply because Tamiya hasn't released any models based on a real-life short wheelbase rear-wheel drive car. Once you understand Tamiya's first & foremost priority it scale accuracy, it's a lot easier to understand their M-chassis lineup.

A full-size S2000 and M roadster both have a wheelbase of roughly 240cm. Both are rear-wheel drive. Tamiya's answer to that is a rear-wheel drive M04L chassis with a 23.9cm wheelbase.

If there's a real-life rear-wheel drive car out there with a 225cm wheelbase that you can convince Tamiya to model, you'll see an M04 chassis. They'll do it by simply removing a plastic bulkhead spacer that bridges the gearbox assembly with the center segment. This can be seen on page 12 of the assembly manual that TamiyaClub has posted (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/manual.asp?id=246) online.

[CarterTG]

Same M04L chassis under the SLK shell...

[CarterTG]

Body set #50756

[SteveK]

Thanks for the info. Hmm: Buy an M04L or turn the M03 around, reverse the motor, put a servo into the 'rear' of the chassis and cut some windows for the tie-rods to pass through? Prolly end up with a whole kit just for the body/wheels/tires. I like the FWD, but RWD has got to be fun too (My driveway if 30x30).

[anthonyfa18]

can you put some kind of speed gears???

[redneck]

i have been away from my computer for a couple of months and just noticed i got my request i guess i better get some pics of my honda soon

[dabait]

Hey Carter,

Looks like you've gotten pretty serious with this chassis! I've got an old TA02 chassis that's been upgraded a bit, but my ML04 chassis is still stock. I'll definitely look into the steering fixes... the stock servo saver is a weak point on all RC cars that use this style; I've heard the Kimbrough servo savers are great!

Now, if only SC closer... Homecoming :(

dabait (daver from roadfly)

[sipaboy]

What springs and shock oil do you guys use for the front and back? Rear shock position? Lay down or standing up?How about tire combo for tcs? Any website we can check M04L set ups?

[CarterTG]

Yo DaveR! Can't believe I missed the new posts to this thread, musta been while I was visiting the bay area. I've joined the TA02 ranks too, but woosin' it out by keeping the kit (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=1914&id=144) NIB. As for the Kimbrough Servo Saver, it oughta work perfectly fine too... just keep in mind that the Tamiya Championship Series (http://www.tamiyausa.com/events/tcs) races will only allow certain approved hop-ups.

Sipa, the chassis hardly allows for any rear shock settings. Unless you're using the precision #53571 TRF Dampers, the two shock tower positioning holes won't likely make any noticeable difference. As with most RWD cars, heavier shock oil up front is a good place to start. Exact weights will depend on how smooth/rough a track you're running. I'm running 50wt front and 30wt rear. The rear kit tires are OK and useable to a point, but the front kit tires are a waste of perfectly good rims. HPI pro compound radials up front offers some needed steering grip.

Anthony, as far as I know, high-speed gears aren't available for the M04L series (otherwise I'd be all over that!) The only gearing choices is changing the .06mod pinion gear between 17t, 19t, and 21t. Despite that, there's room for improvement when upgrading from the kit's silver-can mabuchi. I'm pretty happy with the speed I'm getting with a Trinity P2K-Pro stock motor mated to a 19t pinion gear (refer to earlier post). The maintenance on the stock motor is minimal and it's not so taxing on my MC230CR ESC where I have to upgrade it.

As for other future upgrades, I doubt I'm gonna get the aluminum steering knuckles. The lighter stock plastic ones are fine... even better once strategically shimmed. The lightweight carbon gear shafts have been acquired, but I'll wait till I go nuts with titanium screws before installing it all and moving to the chassis-lightening stage.

[sipaboy]

Thanks Carter for the reply, but how about springs?

[CarterTG]

My spring preferences are mentioned in the 3-19-03 post.

[sipaboy]

Tire and insert combo most people are using? Should I use firmer inserts in front or rear?I ended up using red springs up front and yellow at the back. No preload spacers on it either. Tried all combos with the red/yellow/blue set and ended up liking the red/yellow combo.Boy, is this car fast. Had the M03 and it was fun but this M04l is a lot faster and like the way it handles.Whats the beast shell for racing?Anybody removed that part that extends the chassis and makes it shorter[225mm]? Thanks again and looking forward for some advise.

[dabait]

Hey Carter,

Drop me an email or something... I've got something for you :)

daver


Originally posted by CarterTG
Yo DaveR! Can't believe I missed the new posts to this thread, musta been while I was visiting the bay area. I've joined the TA02 ranks too, but woosin' it out by keeping the kit (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=1914&id=144) NIB...

[viper_dude]

dose anybody have any info they can send me on M04.
i want to get one but i'm not sure.

[^j!nx^]

does anyone know where i can get this chassis

http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~kmodels/rt01-p01.jpg

http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~kmodels/rttex-frame01.jpg

[SteveK]

Been a while since any posts here.

Well, I was toying with unloading the seldom-used TL01 (Stupid LHS and their spec classes) and getting an M04, for a nice change of pace from the FWD M03, and then today I saw this:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/news/news/58307.jpg

Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA
Overall length=385mm
1/10 R/C Car Series No.307

Tamiya re-releases this popular sports car that rose to much eminence in the 1960s. Features detailed replication of the elegant and refined body of the real Sprint GTA with silver plated front grill and side mirror. M-04M rear wheel drive chassis Comes with a Type 540 motor.


And that clinches it. It's one of my brother's favorite cars too, so he might get one as well.

Interesting that it's the first M04 WITHOUT the L designation.

[CarterTG]

Yep, noticed the re-release a while ago too. Great to see Tamiya staying with the M04 platform.

I never tried removing the M-04L's spacer bulkhead to measure what the resulting wheelbase would be.

For an M-04M to exist they would either have the kit assembled without that spacer or provide a shorter one. Either way, it would shape up to be a donut monster!
:D

[SteveK]

I wonder what they will do about tires, since all the other M-04L's use 1/10th TC tires, with sticky ones in the back and the cheapy kit radials up front. This car would still use the older M-size wheels, so maybe slap on the 60D tires from the M-03, but do they make super-dticky treaded tires in 60D, or just slicks?

[CarterTG]

Just spent today at the BMW roadster factory (http://www.bmwzentrum.com) in South Carolina having some fun with fellow M04L owners...

[CarterTG]

You saw it here first, folks.. courtesy RadioControlZone's generous image attachment feature.

The Tamiya booth saw the upcoming 58307 Alfa Romeo Giulia re-release. I made a beeline to it with digital camera ready in hand. Enjoy!

[CarterTG]

Same bodyshell from the 58187 kit on an M-04M chassis.

[CarterTG]

Tire tread & lettering same as those from the factory.

[CarterTG]

Details to make any Alfa enthusiast proud...

[CarterTG]

A final parting shot of the Alfa Romeo Giulia to be available some time around October according to one lady at the booth.

[SteveK]

Great pics.

It's already listed as 'order pending' on Tower. I am SO f-ing buying that, as is my brother: That's been one of his favorite cars since he saw a real one on the road in Buffalo a couple years ago.

[k_bojar]

Hey all Mini Drivers/Racers in the PA/NJ/DE/MD/NY/VA area...Check this out:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=142185

[Sasso]

Originally posted by CarterTG
You saw it here first, folks.. courtesy RadioControlZone's generous image attachment feature.

The Tamiya booth saw the upcoming 58307 Alfa Romeo Giulia re-release. I made a beeline to it with digital camera ready in hand. Enjoy!


Oh my god!!:eek: I was like kicking myself in the head a few months ago for not buying it, now I have another chance to get it!!

[Asahi]

Hey,

does anyone in chicago race the M04L chasis car? or even the M03/M03L car?

[SARacer]

does anybody know whether the Alfa body will fit the MO3L?
That car is so neato!

[SteveK]

What bearings does the M-04 take? Tower says six 5x11 and two 5x8, that that leaves it at least four 5x11mm bearings short.

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by SteveK
What bearings does the M-04 take?

Chassis-wise, the only thing that changed was omission of the plastic bulkhead/spacer located between the gearbox and monocoque frame. I don't see why the bearing count on the M04 would be any different than the M04L cars.

From the two or three M04Ls I built, I do recall the two 5x8 that go into the gearbox.

Two 5x11 bearings at each wheel totals eight. Four more go into finishing the gearbox.

That's twelve 5x11mm bearings and two 5x8mm total.

[M03racer]

i got one and it is beautiful. doesnt have the plated wheels though. i still havent painted it yet, just the grill. this one is going to be just a display. I have always loved this car and was so excited they re-released this kit. For everyone who was wondering about the tires, it comes with the hard, normal mini tyres up front but the s grip in the back which are quite a bit softer. I really am tempted to drive it to see how the shorter wheelbase does but i dont want to spend the money on electronics. let me know how it does compaired to the L.

[banditdrifter]

I just bought a M-04M Alfa Romeo Guilia GTA kit. I put on an LRP 16+ speedo, Airtronics blazer radio, and I was wondering if there are long lasting tyres, cuz the stock ones are like slicks after about6 runs. Love the kit, and for the first time I like the silver can in an on-road car! I like how it breaks lose, but is there a way to keep it in a little bit more control? Maybe dampers?

Is the L kit wider that the M?

THANX, and this is my 10th "baby", and it is the coolest!

[banditdrifter]

BTW, the Alfa Romeo Giulia is in an XM satellite commercial, and I love the car even more! Funny how after I buy the kit my, well every M-04 owners, baby is on TV in real life! WOOT!

[SteveK]

Just a guess but the L is probably the same width as the other M cars.

Oil dampers should help plant the rear a little more, and a ball diff would prevent scrubbing the rear tires in corners, would would help tire life. Maybe a front swaybar to reduce oversteer and prevent sliding.

[^j!nx^]

is the M-04m wheel base 225mm?

[CarterTG]

Yes, it SHOULD be 225mm in wheelbase. The only other M-chassis ending in an "m" was the M-02M chassis used in the Mazda Miata kit (#58180)... which also had a wheelbase of 225mm.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Will the HPI Hatchback Civic mini body fit these M-Class chassis'?:confused:

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by TRF Drive Hard
Will the HPI Hatchback Civic mini body fit these M-Class chassis'?

Ted,
It would be very unlikely... the known measurements are:

Rear-Wheel Drive Chassis
M-04L = 239mm wheelbase
M-04M = 225mm wheelbase

Front-Wheel Drive Chassis
M-03L = 239mm wheelbase
M-03 = 210mm wheelbase

...and Tower's listing of the HPI Civic mini body wheelbase is 6-5/8 inches... which converts to around 170mm.

I vaguely remember seeing pics of folks fitting HPI shells to their M03 Coopers, but it didn't look pretty.

[SARacer]

Didnt HPI release mini bodies for their Mini RS4 that were 225mm in wheelbase though?

i think you got them mixed up with the Micro RS4 bodies which are 140-150mm in wheelbase

[TRF Drive Hard]

Thanks Carter... i was gonna get one... sure would be damn cool to see one...;)

[SteveK]

According to HPI the wheelbase is 225mm, and can be adjusted to 208mm by flipping the rear arms. I remember seeing a Civic on an M03, and it looked fine: The owner just flipped the rear suspension arms around to extend the wheelbase.

The WIDTH of the HPI Mini's is about 160mm, so the Tower info may have just been a typo. HPI says the Civic body has a 225mm wheelbase.

[CarterTG]

I stand corrected. Damn Tower and their spotty specs! :)

[CarterTG]

Just announced on Tamiya's Japanese pages.. a re-release of the Mazda Eunos (Miata MX-5)! The original Miata kit rode on top of the M-02M chassis.

The new re-release #58325 uses the same M-04M chassis as the recent Alfa Giulia.

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/news0405/58325.jpg
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/news0405/news2.htm (http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/news0405/news2.htm)

[yoda_sez]

Great news! I'm glad the M04 chassis is getting more bodies!

CarterTG, what is the lowest turn motor that you have used in your M04? Did you have any gear failure?

[CarterTG]

Currently using a Trinity P2K-2 (24turn) on it with a 19-tooth pinion. No negative issues with gearing. The upgrade from the kit's Mabuchi motor gave me a video-verified speedboost from 17mph to 26mph.

[erick_truter]

Hi all,

I am from South Africa and recently got back into R/C racing. I have a Tamiya Lancer Evo WRC 2001 (TL-01) which I have raced in three novice events locally in South Africa. I have been watching the M-chassis race and I am tempted to get one. Any tips for a beginner?

Regards,
Erick

[Zero2Hero]

What's up? Anyone here have an M04M kit? I just bought the Tamiya MX-5 kit, and am in the process of building it. Anyone got any setup tips/ideas?

Thanks!!

[spencercam1]

I have the Giulia Sprint. My work in progress includes the following:
1.Tamiya
A. Ball diff E. Steel Suspension shafts I. stabilizer set
B. Universal Drive shafts F. Reinforced wheels
C. 21T Pinion Gear G. Toe in Rear Upright
D. Aluminum Uprights H. Aluminum Wheel Hubs
2.Hitec
A. FM Reciever
B. High torque servo
3.Duratrax
A. Bearings
4.Deans
A. Connectors
B. Cables
5.Epic
A. 3300 mAh 6 cell packs
I've got one more deposit to make on my preferred power supply, The Novak Super
Stock Brushless System. I plan on running it at my local velodrome.I'll send pictures later.

[munim]

I'm thinking of getting an m-04 chassis'd car to fool around with on the street. How much power can I give the stock chassis before it needs handling modifications?

[AirBoston]

Can a M chassis like that on the Miata or Alfa be converted to a L chassis? If so, what parts are needed and are they available?

Or does anyone know of a shop that sells the M-02L or M-04L cars? I need a bunch of 'em.

[CarterTG]

Can a M chassis like that on the Miata or Alfa be converted to a L chassis?

Yep. And I'll almost bet that part is ALREADY in your M-04 kit as an unused piece. Wouldn't make sense for Tamiya to change their molds...

In the M-04L kit, the backbone of the chassis is the F-tree (#50851). Part #3 and #4 is the spacer that's omitted in the shorter M-04 chassis. It's no longer listed on Tower's site, but TamiyaUSA.com should have it in stock. Call their toll-free customer service number to order it. UPS shipping will be at least $8, so add some other hard-to-find parts to make it worthwhile.

Hop over to TamiyaClub's manual section, look up kit 58240 and thumb to page 22:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/manuals.asp

[munim]

Sweet, got my Giulia and built it all up with bearings. Seems really nice but I haven't really driven it except in my basement with a linoleum floor. Under hard (full) acceleration the car hooks to the left, I don't know if this will occur on road or not however.

[munim]

I partially solved the left hook on the car, I knew it had to be the left/right balance of the car. It's biased towards the left, probably letting the differential unload to the right side. I used a sub-C cell and just taped it to the right of the car and, voila!, no more left hook but now there's this ridiculous weight slowing the car down. I removed the cell and moved the ESC as far right as possible in it's mounting area and so the left hook is less but still there. I'll probably be looking for something heavy I can double-sided tape to the right of the car, we'll see.

Anyways, in the meantime I have managed to screw up gluing one of the tires up front and so boiled it. This partially solved the problem but created a whole new one, shrinking the rim but not too badly, maybe 1% of it's size. It'll fit but I've ordered a new set of tires/rims for the front.

[snshampton]

Hey How much did you pay for that Giulia? I have been thinking hard about getting one.They look so sweet!!! and how big is it compared to a regular 1/10 scale car like a losi xxx-s?

[munim]

It is a bit smaller, maybe by about an inch. Don't think too hard, lol, it's a really nice kit. I haven't properly driven it yet, I'm trying to get he body down perfect. You'll want to as well, the body is a work of art. I bought mine from Stellamodels.net with a bearing set. It came out to $135 shipped to Canada. It might seem a bit pricey but it comes with an ESC (unlike towerhobbies) and with the bearing kit (separate) so it was worth it to me. The esc is pretty good, it has that nice braking feature that the new novaks have where reverse doesn't engage until you bring the throttle to neutral. It makes brake control easier without having the car go into reverse and spin out.

[snshampton]

ok have you painted it yet? how bout some pictures.does it drive good?Iam about to order one but i am scared it will be a piece of crap lol. someone that has had one for a while help me out. do they handle good? Munim...is this you first car?

[munim]

Hehe, it's hardly my first car. Maybe my 11th or something. I have painted it, not extremely well but it's a beauty nonetheless. Unfortunately, I rolled it yesterday so it's a bit scuffed on one side.

On to the handling/driving part. This car is fast! Even with the stock motor it has very good acceleration and top speed. Handling is alright, I haven't got the balance of the chassis sorted out yet without resorting to taping on that one cell which adds considerable weight to the car. As a result of the balance problem, low traction surfaces will make the car hook/turn to the left on hard acceleration. This was apparent yesterday on some slick asphalt but on rougher and grippier asphalt it didn't exhibit the turning problem. Braking is another story, anything more than light braking sent the car into a spin but I adapted and it became manageable.

The M04 has fair low speed handling/turning but a lot of understeer and high speed. This also resulted in quite a bit of tire wear on the front tires. To get around a corner I lightly tapped the brakes (anything more and the car would spin), turn and the same time and then get back on the throttle. The car reacts pretty well with the throttle, get on the throttle and the rear end plants itself into the ground.

In all, it's a pretty fun car to drive. I don't have a track around here but that would have made it even more fun. All of my running was done with a bone stock car except for bearings.

I'm going to be adding some optional parts to it to make it handle better. At the top of the list are oild shocks and maybe some stickier tires for the front. I also have to figure out how to place the electronics to get the left and right sides of the car balanced.

[munim]

http://pages.infinit.net/skadebo/HPIM1065.JPG
http://pages.infinit.net/skadebo/HPIM1066.JPG
http://pages.infinit.net/skadebo/HPIM1069.JPG

That's mine, the camera doesn't really capture the car's color. You can check out more in different colors:
http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=32140&id=7011
http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=32057&id=3576
http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=14546&id=2000
http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=13712&id=424
and classic red:
http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=30479&id=3544

As you can see, it's a very beautiful kit.

[mikevillena]

Nice and clean job on the Giulia Sprint. They do build up nicely.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/mikevillena/Alfa%20Giulia%20Sprint%20GTA/Alfadetails05.jpg

[munim]

Thanks! I did learn, however, that it's best to trim the body after painting, not before. You can see the ugly lines where the paint caught the edges.

Is that your model? If it is, damn nice job!

Here are some body-off shots of the Giulia after I re-arranged the electronics and added some weights in the form of old bronze bushings. They were good for something after all, heh.

http://pages.infinit.net/skadebo/HPIM1073.JPG
http://pages.infinit.net/skadebo/HPIM1074.JPG
http://pages.infinit.net/skadebo/HPIM1075.JPG

[snshampton]

your car looks good. I will probably get one within a week or two.

[mikevillena]

Hey Munim,

Yes, it's an older Tamiya Alfa kit that's built on a very old M02-M chassis. It's entirely functional and won TCS Best of Show a few years back. I also did a Mazda Eunos with opening doors. Anyway, how did you still get the paint to bleed under the protective layer on the outside of the body? I always rough trim before painting but I leave at least 1/4 " so that I can grind and sand the trim line properly after the paint has dried. I also noticed that your tires were rubbing on the rear fender. You might want to raise the body shell in the back a little. Besides, the Alfa looks good with a slight rake. Interesting use of old bronze bushings....looks like you are trying to solve a very vicious weight transfer problem!

[munim]

Wow! I thought that was a static/plastic model! My praise was understated, that is absolutely amazing!

About my body, however, I realized a lot of my mistakes after painting the body, hehe. That's all right though, I won't make those mistakes again. About the body rubbing the fender, I think I'll put in some down stops in the back in the form of o-rings. By rake I think you mean having the front lower than the back? I'll try it out but I like the look of the Alfa squatting it's rear, it makes it look like it's always accelerating hehe.

Anyways, I'll be keeping an eye out for a body set to paint it properly or I might just but another kit, hehe. Seeing how fast the tires wear, I think I could use the spares!

[mikevillena]

Wow! I thought that was a static/plastic model! My praise was understated, that is absolutely amazing!

About my body, however, I realized a lot of my mistakes after painting the body, hehe. That's all right though, I won't make those mistakes again. About the body rubbing the fender, I think I'll put in some down stops in the back in the form of o-rings. By rake I think you mean having the front lower than the back? I'll try it out but I like the look of the Alfa squatting it's rear, it makes it look like it's always accelerating hehe.

Anyways, I'll be keeping an eye out for a body set to paint it properly or I might just but another kit, hehe. Seeing how fast the tires wear, I think I could use the spares!

It's cool. A lot of folks mistake my stuff for super-detailed 1/24th scale models. I think the Alfa Giulia Sprint isn't available as a spare so you might have to order another complete kit. I was lucky to have purchased 3 complete body kits when they were still available as spares for the M02-M and I'm still hanging onto those. I will be building an entirely static version with all scratchbuilt details for Tamiyacon. Anyway, I do have an M04 that I will be using as a platform for another TCS concourse car next year. It'll be a challenge to incorporate as much details as the shock mounts are in the way. Another reason why I favored the old M02's. Perhaps a Porsche Carrera with the rear engine. Here's that Mazda:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/mikevillena/Mazda%20Eunos/ProjectMiyatabuild-up173.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/mikevillena/Mazda%20Eunos/ProjectMiyatabuild-up172.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/mikevillena/Mazda%20Eunos/ProjectMiyatabuild-up176.jpg
The real Alfa Giulia GTA's came from the factory with rear anti-squat geometry so you should have a rake to keep the look to "scale". Good luck with your next Alfa. Maybe I'll see you at the next TCS race at Trackside.

[munim]

Your work is stunning! It must take a lot of time and effort to make up the car like that. I love it! Are they functional though, in some extent? Seeing how you've done, I'm sure you'll win next year's concourse event, heh. You probably won't see me at any event, unfortunately, as I live in Quebec, Canada. There are'nt many tracks around here and if there are, they're all in remote areas inaccessible to me.

Anyways, it's unfortunate that Tamiya doesn't sell the spares anymore, I'll keep an eye out on eBay and if I have enough money I'll probably buy a second kit.

[mikevillena]

hey munim,
Thanks for the compliment. Both the Alfa and the Mazda are fully functional as TCS rules do not allow any modifications to the chassis. I've had to drive both cars in their respective heats to validate functionality. Isn't there a TCS Series in Canada? As to the spare Alfa bodyshell, who knows? The Alfa bodyshell is very popular and Tamiya might release it as a spare. I wouldn't mind picking up several more so I won't have to worry about banging a rare bodyshell around.

[munim]

There are TCS races, or at least something resembling them but they're all in another province (Ontario) where the hobby is more popular. Too bad, guess I'll have to wait until I'm older to really enjoy this hobby.

[raman]

Hi Guys, I noticed TamiyaUSA has discontinued the 53382 Stabilizer bars.. does anyone know if the set from another car will work? How neccessary are they anyways?

[munim]

I don't think sets from other cars will work but there's always eBay to try. I've seen them on there numerous times.

[raman]

How well do the stablizer bars work anyways? My car runs pretty stable.. I have it shimmed pretty good, and run a Reedy Flash 15T QuadMag and 21 pinon. Have the TRF dampers with red springs in rear and yellow up front. It understeers a bit on power but that is to be expected with the motor I have in it..

[microrcdude]

It makes it so the suspension moves equaly in turns(i really cant describe how it works, but i see it in my mind)

Anyway, Has anyone mounted their electronics closer towards the front to even out the weight distribution? Is there an advantage to that?

[raman]

It makes it so the suspension moves equaly in turns(i really cant describe how it works, but i see it in my mind)

Anyway, Has anyone mounted their electronics closer towards the front to even out the weight distribution? Is there an advantage to that?

I read in earlier thread that a few had mounted electronics on the sides to balance the car out.. but not the front.. In anycase, if you are running the Alfa body.. to keep the car true to Alfa GTA the car should be biased to the rear :-)

[Killernow1]

Hi I'm fabrizio from Italy, I'm a new user but have some M chassis, M03 with mini body (my extreme project on M chassis), M02 Renault Alpine with some extras by tamiya, M04 Alfa Giulia in progress (is my little runner) and a M04L Bmw z3 and now I want the M01.... but I'm a tamiya collector and I like all rc car-truck-tank-... and my ultimate passion is the rockcrawling.
The m04 is the best of all M chassis (for me).
I've see in past page a carbon chassis for M04, who is the producer? I can found one or I must made one with my hands?
I can post some photos of my M?

Opsss sorry for my language ;)

[raman]

Ciao Fabrizio, ti saluto dalla California. Ma dove hai letto che c'e un produttore in carbonio per M04. Non lo trovo?

[Killernow1]

Ciao Fabrizio, ti saluto dalla California. Ma dove hai letto che c'e un produttore in carbonio per M04. Non lo trovo?

wow un italiano? vacanziero o residente in california? nella seconda ipotesi t'invidio un po' :p
il 3d è questo http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=1078232&postcount=31 ma non ho capito se è custom o in produzione.

Ciao

[raman]

Ciao Fabrizio,

Io non sono Italiano pero lo parlo abastanza bene.. d'origine sono Iraniano. Allora cominciamo in inglese cosi non si arrabiano.

That is a beatiful chassis in carbon of the M04.. I too would like to know it is is in production. Does anyone know if this chassis is for sales or if it is a one of custom make?

R

wow un italiano? vacanziero o residente in california? nella seconda ipotesi t'invidio un po' :p
il 3d è questo http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=1078232&postcount=31 ma non ho capito se è custom o in produzione.

Ciao

[CarterTG]

It's likely a chassis done by KAI of Japan. They're known for creating Carbon Fiber hop-up chassis for popular models. The company doesn't seem to reach outside of Japan as I've never seen much if any of their stuff offered in the US. It's one of the things I'm attempting to seek out in a future trip to Hong Kong. Their hobby district does a fairly decent job of stocking nearly all the exotic Japanese RC goods.

Failing that, it wouldn't be impossible to fabricate a custom CF chassis using a combination of the pictures posted and a silhouette of the stock ABS parts as reference.

[raman]

I just e-mailed rainbow ten in Japan with the pictures attached. They are a good source for Tamiya/Japanese products. Let's see what they come up with.

[Killernow1]

wow great parts :eek:
http://www.kmodels-kai.com/index1.htm

[raman]

Well I e-mailed all the resources I have in the far east and no one knows about that carbon chassis. I e-mailed Kai and they did not get back to me, so I do not know if they make it either.

[AirBoston]

What are the recommended hop ups for this chasis? I figure brearings and oil shocks, but what else works well?

[Car-la]

i've got a question and i hope someone can answer it with certainty....

i recently read somewhere that the M04 chassis....if the dampers are completly removed from the chassis....that the center portion of the chassis will not touch the ground.

is this true? can anyone offer a "yes" or "no" answer with a picture to back it up?

i'm not looking for speculation or good guesses....i need a confident answer.

[Ubik]

What are the recommended hop ups for this chasis? I figure brearings and oil shocks, but what else works well?

here is a list of hop ups for that chassis.

go to this URL : http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=TAMC0167&P=X

[AirBoston]

Tower's list up hop ups are pretty lame. My latest customer will probably got for the aluminum shocks but I need more.

This guy want's the best possible set up for this chassis (fit's a certain body).

I'm looking for a mild mod motor suggestion, ESC, shocks, chassis, sway bars, tires, etc. If you were to build a no holds bared M04L, what would it have (and where can I buy suggested parts)?

edit:
BTW, I never did thank CarterTG for all the help (to AirBoston & djm914-6). I have been going back over the past posts and much of the info I'm looking for may be there if I can descipher it. I've been out of the hobby for some time and things have changed a bit. I left when on road meant pan car. Still, if there are any "cool" upgrades or mods that may or may not be a repear of the last few ears posts, I'd appreciate hearing them.

Thanks!

[raytracer]

Nice and clean job on the Giulia Sprint. They do build up nicely.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/mikevillena/Alfa%20Giulia%20Sprint%20GTA/Alfadetails05.jpg

I've seen your work in another forum Mike. Really amazing work. Those scratch built works are made from plastic sheets and other parts from scale models?

[mikevillena]

I've seen your work in another forum Mike. Really amazing work. Those scratch built works are made from plastic sheets and other parts from scale models?
Hey raytracer! Thanks. On this Alfa and on my other projects, the details are all scratchbuilt from styrene except for the driver figure (modified action figure). I am not aware of any 1/10th scale static plastic car kits that I can steal parts from (too bad as it will save me a lot of time and grief!) :D

[cnroman]

I just got me a Eunos kit. The box was still in shrink wrap for $70 shipped. I be removing the top to model it like a MX-5 cup car with roll-bars etc. I'll post pics when finished.

[microrcdude]

haha..id make it look like the older miatas, as thats the 2006 miatas..plus taking off that top is gonna make your body warp like crazy

[cnroman]

I've lopped the top off of another body with out any problems. I know that's a 06 MX-5, the older Miata is not that far removed from this one. Different headlights and fender bulges.

[topelement]

Taken at Laguna Seca this past may:
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m303/TopElement/RC%20stuff/Picture079.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m303/TopElement/RC%20stuff/Picture080.jpg

[cnroman]

Sweet! Nice paint job.

[microrcdude]

Too bad that car isnt legal for the series lol

[Roy Dietsch]

Finally got some free time...
http://beatmotorsports.com/racing/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=3910&g2_serialNumber=1
http://beatmotorsports.com/photos/d/6962-2/misc49.jpg
http://beatmotorsports.com/photos/d/6953-2/misc49+022.jpg
http://beatmotorsports.com/photos/d/6964-1/DSC02446.JPG

[spencercam1]

[QUOTE=spencercam1]I have the Giulia Sprint. My work in progress includes the following:
1.Tamiya
A. Ball diff E. Steel Suspension shafts I. stabilizer set
B. Universal Drive shafts F. Reinforced wheels
C. 21T Pinion Gear G. Toe in Rear Upright
D. Aluminum Uprights H. Aluminum Wheel Hubs
2.Hitec
A. FM Reciever
B. High torque servo
3.Duratrax
A. Bearings
4.Deans
A. Connectors
B. Cables
5.Epic
A. 3300 mAh 6 cell packs
I've got one more deposit to make on my preferred power supply, The Novak Super
Stock Brushless System. I plan on running it at my local velodrome.I'll send pictures later.
Its later!

[TamiyaRacer69]

Hi all. Great looking cars there.
I'm (hoping) to receive one of the newer M04L's early next week, the Tamiya re-release Volkswagen Beetle. Another VW to add to my already growing (various) VW collection :cool: . Just one question (if anyone knows the answer) Do the front and rear wheels mount using the tamiya hex system?
I've tried looking on tamiyaclub.com but as the kits pretty much new, the manual hasn't been added to the site yet. The reason I ask, is I want to add some Tamiya Porsche Boxter wheels to give it a different look.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanx
Del

[cianhanrahan]

Hi Del,
yes the wheels are mounted with standard 12mm hex, Boxster wheels will bolt right on.

[TamiyaRacer69]

Hi Del,
yes the wheels are mounted with standard 12mm hex, Boxster wheels will bolt right on.
Cheers for that. Still waiting for customs, lasy so 'n' so's

[TamiyaRacer69]

Here's my new M04L Beetle. Still got some ideas for it.

L8R

[slow]

Hi, I just finally joined cuz I never had an e-mail that'd let me. Borrowed mom's. Anyways I got a Beetle, I LOVE these cars, I almost got a '74 instead of the car I have now but my mom suddenly switched to the idea of a truck. :mad: I messed up big time on the body and decals, but I've never been good at either. I'll be getting a new body set and stuff when I see it on tower, and anything else. I fried my esc when I traction rolled into a puddle. I've now switched the front and rear springs and preloaders, it makes alot of rake but it feels much more stable at top speed. Someone gimme color ideas, I wanted to do a baby blue but I didnt find any paints like that.
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/4111/dsc00250og7.th.jpg (http://img529.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00250og7.jpg)
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/8958/dsc00251ts2.th.jpg (http://img525.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00251ts2.jpg)
EDIT: I think I might get this body instead.
http://cgi.ebay.com/OVAL-WINDOW-Tamiya-Beetle-M-Chassis-body-shell-LEXAN_W0QQitemZ6064430279QQihZ009QQcategoryZ2565QQ ssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
It says it's an Oval but it's actually a Split. For those who don't know it's the pre-1953 Beetles that had a Split down the middle oval for the rear window. They're very rare, and very dope.

[TamiyaRacer69]

Hiya.
Black was my first choice, but I settled on Gun Metal Grey. I've since trimmed the body posts right down, adjusted the rear wheels so they're sitting with negative camber. Looks awesome now.
:D :cool:
Metallic Blue is another favorite of mine, as are most metallic colours. If I was to get one of those "Oval" shells, I'd paint it in retro colours. :cool: Colours that were around at the same time as the Oval it's-self. Just google VW pics mate, and I'm sure you'll find something.

Wouldn't mind getting another couple of M04L's, and doing some mild to wild customizing. Got a couple of VW based projects on the go at the moment too, which are modified. One Pro Street VW, and a Rat Rod VW.

Good luck with the colour choice.

L8R
Del

[slow]

Hiya.
Black was my first choice, but I settled on Gun Metal Grey. I've since trimmed the body posts right down, adjusted the rear wheels so they're sitting with negative camber. Looks awesome now.
:D :cool:
Metallic Blue is another favorite of mine, as are most metallic colours. If I was to get one of those "Oval" shells, I'd paint it in retro colours. :cool: Colours that were around at the same time as the Oval it's-self. Just google VW pics mate, and I'm sure you'll find something.

Wouldn't mind getting another couple of M04L's, and doing some mild to wild customizing. Got a couple of VW based projects on the go at the moment too, which are modified. One Pro Street VW, and a Rat Rod VW.

Good luck with the colour choice.

L8R
DelSweet, I got a VW Catalogue that has all the color choices for all years, among other stuff. I had switched springs on mine which made it more stable, dumped the butt on the ground so one tire has the inner side worn down so that only the parallel treads were there. It also looked like it'd be fairly easy to make your own camber rods and I've been thinking about it. a Couple screws and I could go from lowered swing axle look to a conventional 2-3* of camber for performance. Good luck with the VW's, I have a little '82 Caddy but I haven't planned anything for it; I'm more of an air-cooled guy. My brother is auto-x prepping a '70 Beetle though, it should be pretty sweet for a fat chick. :cool:

[toonz]

is the M04L beetle fully ball race from the kit?

[slow]

The axles use ball bearings but the transmission uses 6 plastic bushings in the transmissions. 4 5x11 plastic bushings and 2 5x8 brass bushings.

[TamiyaRacer69]

:wave: all
Yeah toonz like slow said, bearings are few and far between. Just as well I had some spare 1150's lying `round. You should get yourself a M04L. And to answer you question about "how well it drifts" It drifts pretty well in standard form, so you can you imagine how well it goes with a RZ or BZ in it. Trying to get a replicar body of a car I used to own, might be converted to a 'drifter' if I can get one. I'm also hoping that the body will slot straight onto the M04L chassis.
Hey slow, I'm thinking of doing some camber rods too. At the moment I've just got mine tied up with cable/zip ties. Gonna have a go at the front ones tonight. Wife and kids are going out, so I'll be playing with the toys.

GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!

L8R
Del

[slow]

:wave: all
Yeah toonz like slow said, bearings are few and far between. Just as well I had some spare 1150's lying `round. You should get yourself a M04L. And to answer you question about "how well it drifts" It drifts pretty well in standard form, so you can you imagine how well it goes with a RZ or BZ in it. Trying to get a replicar body of a car I used to own, might be converted to a 'drifter' if I can get one. I'm also hoping that the body will slot straight onto the M04L chassis.
Hey slow, I'm thinking of doing some camber rods too. At the moment I've just got mine tied up with cable/zip ties. Gonna have a go at the front ones tonight. Wife and kids are going out, so I'll be playing with the toys.

GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!

L8R
DelDrifter? What's your setup? There's no races here so I need to spice stuff up!

[TamiyaRacer69]

Hi slow.
Not really a 'drifter set-up', it just seems to slide the rear end out on ocassion. I'm not really into drifting, for the fact that it's not done right. I'm 35, and have never seen a real 4WD drifter in the last 18 years when my love of cars grew. If I'm going to do a drifter, it's gonna be rear wheel drive. Like it's supposed to be.

L8R
Del

[cianhanrahan]

Del, I'd love to see some of your VW projects, be sure to post updates as you are building them!

[TamiyaRacer69]

Del, I'd love to see some of your VW projects, be sure to post updates as you are building them!

Hiya cianhanarhan.
Here's a pic of all my VW's. Black one is the VolksRod, just about to mark out where to cut the roof for a roof chop. Silver VW, Pro Street Drag. Still waiting for some big fat foam tires to arrive. When I bought it, it came with another set of wheels, had my mate at work narrow the front ones on his lathe. Grey Blitzer Beetle is almost done, in the process of fabricating a roll cage for it. If the roll cage turns out okay, I'll be putting one in the Pro Street and the VolksRod. Blitzer is now running headlights, Pro line speed Hawks all round, and powered by a Tamiya GT Tuned. And of course, the latest edition to my VW family. The brand new, (not here in New Zealand yet) M04L. I know some people who know some people who robbed some people. Nah just kidding. I got it through a very good Japanese mate of mine

Yeah I'll keep you posted on them as I go. Also, trying to find an old TA-01/02 chassis do do a 4WD Beetle. Yes there was such a thing, back in 1942.

Thanks for your interest.
Del

[toonz]

Evolution!!!

[slow]

Yeah I'll keep you posted on them as I go. Also, trying to find an old TA-01/02 chassis do do a 4WD Beetle. Yes there was such a thing, back in 1942.

Thanks for your interest.
DelThe Kommanderwagen! I've been thinking of doing that with a TA-02 because I love scale crawling and rock crawling was so much fun when I got to do it with my cousin.Really is alot more fun than it looks.

[TamiyaRacer69]

Evolution!!!More like INFESTATION (of Beetles) :D Is that what it was called? Shows how much I know. You like your VW's too, Slow? Got to be one of the most versatile cars ever built. IMO
Done the roof chop. Looks rather cool now. Just got to get the pillars to line up, and get it all glued back together, then she'll be sweet. I'll post a pic tomorrow of both my (German Grey) Blitzer shell, and the VolksRod shell. Just so you can see the difference in height.
Hey Slow, just googled Kommandeurswagen. Awesome, gonna build one for sure. :cool: :D
Toon. Got yourself a M04L yet???????????????????

L8R dudes
Del

[cianhanrahan]

Those Bugs are sick, sick, SICK! What chassis is the VolksRod on? All it needs are whitewalls! Maybe even with the stock Beetle rims, but in red! Where do you stand on pinstripes? Are you going to fill the front arches?

Here's an idea for what I had in mind for my next Bug project...

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/swampdown/badbaja1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/swampdown/badbaja2.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/swampdown/badbaja3.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/swampdown/badbaja4.jpg

[toonz]

Toon. Got yourself a M04L yet???????????????????

L8R dudes
Del[/QUOTE]


still contemplating :D

squash between a m03 cooper and this mo4 wagen :p

[slow]

Those Bugs are sick, sick, SICK! What chassis is the VolksRod on? All it needs are whitewalls! Maybe even with the stock Beetle rims, but in red! Where do you stand on pinstripes? Are you going to fill the front arches?

Here's an idea for what I had in mind for my next Bug project...

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/swampdown/badbaja1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/swampdown/badbaja2.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/swampdown/badbaja3.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g133/swampdown/badbaja4.jpgI already had those pictures saved, and the last one was my background for a while. :eek:

[TamiyaRacer69]

Wicked lookin` bug there Slow. Baja body on what looks like a racing chassis, cool. Should be a sick lookin` VW
Did the roof chop, here's some pix.
BEFORE Standard Blitzer Beelte shell, with cut lines.
DURING Now with roof off.
AFTER Standard Blitzer shell on left. Roof chopped Blitzer shell on right. Not much of a noticeable difference, but when it's sitting on the chassis you can see it.
VolksRod is sitting on a homemade chassis, compromising of Kyosho and Tamiya spare parts. I was thinking of filling the arches with something, as for the white walls, yeah I might do that. Pinstripes??? nah don't suit the VolksRod. That's what "Rat Rods" are all about, none or very little Chrome and flat or gloss black paint.

[cianhanrahan]

Wicked, wicked! Just the right amount of chop, any more and you would have trouble lining everything up again (just like the real thing!) any less, and you wouldn't have known it was chopped at all!
Will you be putting the glass back in?

[TamiyaRacer69]

Wicked, wicked! Just the right amount of chop, any more and you would have trouble lining everything up again (just like the real thing!) any less, and you wouldn't have known it was chopped at all!
Will you be putting the glass back in?Still got to try and line up 'B' pillars, they're out by 5 or so mm. Off to get some Super Super Glue today, so hope to have it all back together later. Yea, glass will be going back in.

[slow]

Crap, the last LHS in town, the place my brother was using for R/C car stuff back when I was a baby is now going to be for planes only.:mad: Now I'll have to get all my stuff on-line or take a 2 hour drive to the not-so local hobby store.

[TamiyaRacer69]

Crap, the last LHS in town, the place my brother was using for R/C car stuff back when I was a baby is now going to be for planes only.:mad: Now I'll have to get all my stuff on-line or take a 2 hour drive to the not-so local hobby store.
Online is the way to go. My LHS is s**t, they have got bugger-all parts in store, normally has to come from their other shop, 2-4days, more sometimes. If either of their shops haven't got what you need,it has to come from Japan, 4-6weeks. Online, the parts you need are always there, 5-7days depending where the item is, and where you are. I live in New Zealand, bought some parts from a seller in Canada once, I recieved the parts with-in a week. Now though, I've got a mate here in a part of New Zealand who imports R/C cars, parts, and other gear. Normally from the time I buy something off him, it's on my doorstep with-in two days. AWESOME!!!! Sorry to make your problem worse by telling you all this. :D

[slow]

This LHS didn't have much in the way of parts, he always carried parts for cars nobody had, but he did have all the basic stuff you need. I think the problem was that everybody is driving 1/8 bugies now. They never break, the only thing they need is fuel. Oh and my farts smell so disgusting today it's almost unbearable.:wave:
EDIT: I know this isn't the M-03 forum but if they made a Mk. 1 Rabbit I'd buy that so fast! Then I'd make an extention plate and chop the body to make it a Caddy like mine.

[cianhanrahan]

Kamtec did a prototype MK1 for the Mardave:
http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=29442&id=91

http://kamtec.co.uk/products.php?Prod_ID=9&prod_cat=8

You can buy it here, or mail him and ask for a lexan version

[TamiyaRacer69]

Kamtec do some wicked shells. Might get one of their Volkswagen Combie shells, and one of the Oval Beetle shells. Have to check with the finacial advisor (wife) first.

[cianhanrahan]

I've quite a few of the shells. They might not be the most detailed, but they make a great base for a project! I've a pair of splitties (one Hoodride in progress, the other unpainted) a Mk1 Escort, a Land Rover Defender Crawler, a VW Corrado, and I've my eye on a either another Landy or a Beetle of some kind, he's got about 4 different versions at the moment!

[TamiyaRacer69]

MK1 Escort ehhh. I used to have 3 1/1 scale Eskies. Another body to comtemplate :confused: :rolleyes: :cool: :D :)

[slow]

You know those camber links I was talking about? Couldn't find any good material nor short enough tie rods, so I drilled a hole in the stock ones. Sorry for the crappy quality. Camera doesn't like up-close stuff.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/crawlin8/DSC00257.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/crawlin8/DSC00258.jpg

[TamiyaRacer69]

Looking good, Slow. I did the same thing, I used some 4mm threaded rod, cut it to length and put some Ball-Joint connectors on each end. Just had to Loctite the rods into the connectors, as they kept coming out. See pics.
At the moment, trying to make the front hex nuts thinner so that I can get the front tucked right in too. HOW LOW CAN YOU GO???????????????

[cianhanrahan]

I ended up using some scrap plastic from an ID badge to replace the upper links, it's a bit hack, but it works! No pics, as I'm at the office, but I think redrilling is an easier option.
Now, has anyone any ideas about making fatter/meatier rear tyres, or smaller front tyres?

[slow]

Looking good, Slow. I did the same thing, I used some 4mm threaded rod, cut it to length and put some Ball-Joint connectors on each end. Just had to Loctite the rods into the connectors, as they kept coming out. See pics.
At the moment, trying to make the front hex nuts thinner so that I can get the front tucked right in too. HOW LOW CAN YOU GO???????????????I wonder if Tamiya makes a small arm set? I might go see if I could take some material on the arms so i can redrill it and mount the c-hubs closer.

[slow]

Sorry for the double post, for some reason it's not letting my edit my posts. Anyways I tried making the hubs shorter to tuck the front end with the extra wide ones that Tamiya gives you. The wheel seemed to get stuck on the hub or something keeping it from moving in more.

[TamiyaRacer69]

:wave: all. Slow, I'm hoping that a mate at work can put them on his lathe. Well, I took my M04L along with my other R/C VW's to the VW festival here in Christchurch yesterday. Put them all on display, not expecting much interest. Well people went crazy for them, pity all of them weren't going. Just the M04L and my Blitzer Beetle had R/Cgear. Anyway, long story short............ I sold the M04L :( for $300.00 with radio gear and battery. The guy I was there with is an importer of R/C stuff, lucky for us some more M04L's arrived, so he told me just to take another M04L. :D Sweeeeeeeeeeeeet, I'm gonna paint it the same as the last one. MAYBE!! Did see one at the festival that was pretty damm cool. :eek:

[slow]

:wave: all. Slow, I'm hoping that a mate at work can put them on his lathe. Well, I took my M04L along with my other R/C VW's to the VW festival here in Christchurch yesterday. Put them all on display, not expecting much interest. Well people went crazy for them, pity all of them weren't going. Just the M04L and my Blitzer Beetle had R/Cgear. Anyway, long story short............ I sold the M04L :( for $300.00 with radio gear and battery. The guy I was there with is an importer of R/C stuff, lucky for us some more M04L's arrived, so he told me just to take another M04L. :D Sweeeeeeeeeeeeet, I'm gonna paint it the same as the last one. MAYBE!! Did see one at the festival that was pretty damm cool. :eek:Nice, that Beetle looks pretty funky. What's with the early turns on the fat chick fenders?

[TamiyaRacer69]

What's with the early turns on the fat chick fenders? Don't know, but it looks pretty damm cool to me. Gonna try the same when I paint mine, even though it'll have the indicators on top of the gaurds. Finished building the replacement today, just needs painting now. Might get it done this week, if not the weekend.

L8R
Del (Da Dubman)

[toonz]

del you sold your m04? and got a new one?

[TamiyaRacer69]

del you sold your m04? and got a new one?yeah mate. And the best thing was, the replacement one didn't cost me a thing. :D :D SWEEEEEEEEEET AS.

[slow]

Nice. I just ordered parts for mine but now I have to buy a gasket for my dirtbike. It blew a gasket while trail riding and I had to push it home. Mmm, don't you just love hills...:mad:

[TamiyaRacer69]

:wave: all.
Well after selling my Gun Metal VW, I got given a replacement. Went for a different colour scheme this time, you've seen it on page 6. I finished most of it last night, just got to make up some type of muffler system for it. Got a guy at work to make the front hexes thinner, so the front wheels sit a little deeper in the gaurds and I can lower it down one more notch without the tires rubbin` and taking the paint off. Didn't bother putting any of the bumpers on it, they get scratched anyway and make the M04L look like crap.
Anyway here's a couple of pics.

[toonz]

spot on! that VW without bumper gives a modern feel! i like it :)

[insomniac]

Finally managed to get back in with another login, cianhanrahan's no more!
Top notch as ever Del, have you cambered the front upper arms at all? I would have tought it was easier to shorten the front arms as there's no driveshaft or dogbones to worry about? if skimming the hexes doesn't work, you might try that as well. You could also narrow the front wheels and tyres, it wouldn't tuck 'em in any more, but it looks cool! Are you on Tamiyaclub at all? The VW lads there would go gaga over these beauts!

I've just ordered a Grasshopper and a Kamtec Baja shell, gonna make an offroader for the missus!

[TamiyaRacer69]

Finally managed to get back in with another login, cianhanrahan's no more!
Top notch as ever Del, have you cambered the front upper arms at all? I would have tought it was easier to shorten the front arms as there's no driveshaft or dogbones to worry about? if skimming the hexes doesn't work, you might try that as well. You could also narrow the front wheels and tyres, it wouldn't tuck 'em in any more, but it looks cool! Are you on Tamiyaclub at all? The VW lads there would go gaga over these beauts!

I've just ordered a Grasshopper and a Kamtec Baja shell, gonna make an offroader for the missus!

Nah haven't cambered the front arms, did think about it. I'd rather have the fronts in the vertical, have put the skimmed hexes in since posting pics. Wheels sit inside the guards now, :D (could probally go another 1mm actually) and there's no rub on the guards. Can't go much more than 1mm, otherwise wheels would catch on the uprights. Have thought about gettin some narrower wheels, maybe when I find something I like. Got another 2 R/C VW projects on the go, and I wanna get those done first. Yeah I'm a member of Tamiya Club, but my subscription's expired, don't know if I'll pay the 15pounds ($45.00 NewZealand) again. Are you in the UK? I'd love to get one (or a few) of Kamtec's 'Oval Window' Beetle shells for some 'out-there' colour schemes. Good thing about the Beetle, it don't matter what colour you paint it, they look good reguardless. Good luck with the 'missus's "Poor Mans Sand Scorcher", my 4year old daughter's got an 'old skool' Hornet with a Baja shell on it. It's her "Bubble Car" that's what she calls Beetles

[insomniac]

Hehe, Poor man's scorcher, that's exactly it!

You'll have to put up a couple of pics of the bug with the new fronts some time! I was thinking about narrowing the existing wheels and tyres, cutting a section out of the tyre, and removing the bead on the inside of the wheel, as is done with 2WD buggies. I tried it with the stock Minilites that came with the Eunos, but I made a bags of regluing everything back together. I was going for the "deepdish dorifto" look at the time, and it was my first time using a hot glue gun...
I reckon chopping them for a drag look would be easier. just remove the inner bead (leaving the wall of the wheel, and remove some of the ribs from the middle of the rim, just enough to let the tyre wall fit into it.

But it's tough to prioritise, right? I've yet to finish the HoodBus project, and already I'm off looking at new stuff! Keith's oval looks great, even the battered example he uses in the Ebay ads looks good! With the Tamiya shell you get all the brightwork and decals as well, which would be nice with the Kamtec stuff. But then that would leave use with nothing to do ourselves!

[slow]

How'd you get the hubcaps a different color than the wheels? Masking seems like a PITA but it sure would make it look nicer, although I think you'd need it tp be dipped in acetone to get off the chrome and make it stick properly.

[TamiyaRacer69]

How'd you get the hubcaps a different color than the wheels? Masking seems like a PITA but it sure would make it look nicer, although I think you'd need it tp be dipped in acetone to get off the chrome and make it stick properly. Just a steady hand and a Magnifing lamp, didn't dip them, just painted them. The wheels come chromed, I just painted the wheels and left the hubcaps chrome. :D
Cheer's
Del

[insomniac]

Wow, I thought they were separate pieces! how do you get them on and off then?

[TamiyaRacer69]

how do you get them on and off then?
Same way as all the other Tamiya wheels, a single nut.

Hi all.

Well, I was sitting here listening to G'n'R's version of "Since I don't have you", with no alcohol to drink, no drugs to take, (not likley, I'm crazy enough without them) no family around. When I got to thinking R/C cars (as you do). I'm sure you've all seen my 'newest VW" yeah I know, it looks great and I'm really talented blah blah blah, but it's not really how I wanted it. If it was real (it is in my mind) and mine, it'll be sitting in the weeds and probaly using Air-Bag suspension.

Anyway, the Beetle wheels are big compared to my R/C Mini's wheels (whoomp there it is) just so happens that I had enough wheels to go `round.

Cheers' dudes
Del

[insomniac]

Nice tuck on those Empis! If you aren't using the old VW wheels anymore, i'd be happy to take 'em of your hands! :D Is there much of a difference in size between those Mini rims and the Beetle rims? Maybe using different tyres would help? The HPI Xpattern tyres have a lower profile than the stock Tamiya rubber. Maybe you could stretch road tyres from a 1/18 scale buggy like the Mini LST over them, so they look like temps?

[slow]

I got my order from Towerhobbies. It rides on bearings and a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor. Guess what. The ESC doesn't work.:mad: It won't even turn on with a fully charged pack, yet plugging the battery directly into the motor will leave black stripes on the floor. Strange, all my Duratrax bearings and chargers have been of high quality but this was just a dud.

[insomniac]

ooh, that sucks, slow! Does it need to be reset or anything?

[slow]

ooh, that sucks, slow! Does it need to be reset or anything?I don't think so, it just doesn't work period. The only sign of life it shows is a small twitch from the servo when you turn it on. Othere wise there's no lights or anything, and the wires are all soldered in correctly.

[TamiyaRacer69]

Hey slow. Did you get back intouch with Tower, and tell them about it? That's what I'd do.
L8R
Del

[slow]

Hey slow. Did you get back intouch with Tower, and tell them about it? That's what I'd do.
L8R
DelNo, I was going to talk to Duratrax about it. My mom wanted me to wait until her boyfriend was back in town because he's an electrical engineer. I probably could have had it back by monday anyways, I doubt he'll be able to do much. She thought he could "hook up one of them electrical thingies to see if it's making electricity" :huh:

[slow]

Sorry about the double post again, no edit option.

Can you tell the difference?:D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/crawlin8/DSC00297.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/crawlin8/DSC00298.jpg

[TamiyaRacer69]

Nope. Got me stumped.

Got a txt message from the owner of the real Beetle I based mine off. Wants to get together for a 'photo shoot' with my M04L, should be cool. Just hope the wether is fine, and we can find somewhere cool for both bugs.

[insomniac]

Referring back to your last pics, slow, I'd say you dumped the rear, and painted the rims matt black? Looks cool, but you need to do something up front to match, the RC equivalent of narrowing the front beam maybe? The rims look very mean like that! Here's how my Beetle is doing at the moment:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/232/492269118_1643f8aefa_m.jpghttp://farm1.static.flickr.com/200/492269106_4727d1f261_m.jpghttp://farm1.static.flickr.com/205/492287671_06bc161063_m.jpghttp://farm1.static.flickr.com/212/492287627_dd1f15e897_m.jpg

[TamiyaRacer69]

Looks like it means business insomniac. Hornet/Grasshopper chassis and what brand is the body ?

slow. To get the front end tuck in and lower, machine the plastic hexs down. That's how I got mine 'tucked in and lower' Been thinking `bout getting one of the 'old pros' at work to do some aluminium ones for me. looks mean though.

[insomniac]

Just reread your previous post, the first time I read it I thought you were doing a photo shoot with a guy and his TXT-1! (It's OK, coffee kicking in now!) Should be a cool shoot, be sure to post some pics here after!

Body is by Kamtec. It's a funny one, front is based on the Wide Eyed Baja kits, but with split rear windows. Still need to mount the Bumper, then the RAM lights. I've a set of Brat tyres that arrived today, we'll see how they look on this, then I've to find an engine for the back. I also want to make a sun visor, and I've a steel aerial to mount. Then decaling, and detailing, the list goes on!

slow, since there's no power going to the front wheels, you could try filing the hex, and if necessary the inside of the wheel where the hex goes. Just make sure the wheels don't rub against the hubs or uprights.

I narrowed a set of ally hexes for a HPI MT, they were the right size, only a couple of mm narrower, and it let me tuck the wheels on my drift BMW a little bit more.

[Dan H]

Hey guys, just got my M04L about a week ago. Build was painless as in typical Tamiya fashion. :) Almost done with the body. I'll post a thread soon of my complete build with pics.

Still deciding if I should paint the outside of the roof for the ragtop look but I'm afraid I might mess up on the body.

[sportsracer-5]

I'm having the same debate - painting my Eunos roof a different color from the body or the same. Considering a racing green body with a tan roof. Or go all white - white Miatas are my favorite... maybe white with a black roof.

[insomniac]

@Dan, paint the inside first, if you don't like it then, try the outside. Then if you don't lke that, you can always take it off with Easy-Off, and go back to the interior.
Use a layer of primer under the final colour for a more textured look.
You could also just paint the interior, and use Matt finish clear varnish to paint the outside.


@sportsracer: You can't go wrong with BRG and a tan top, it's a classic! If you have the black wheels, spray them silver or grat, it looks better with that scheme,

[slow]

Hey I'm back, it's back running again with a Black Can motor.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/crawlin8/DSC00309.jpg
Still on my 1st set of tires, anybody else notice the horrible uneven tire wear?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/crawlin8/DSC00310.jpg
I chopped out the hood because it was slammed so hard on the ground it trapped everything inside the body. Including lots of heat and rocks, but the middle part of the clip got ripped off. When it was there it was fun driving on the sidewalk, it would pick up rocks and shoot them through the gaping hole! It's super fun to bash the hell out of this, I actually managed the chip off a good section of the lip on one of the wheels. Never done that before, I guess they're made of regular plastic instead of nylon.

[insomniac]

You can get hardened wheels in the minilite style from Tower. I think you need to Baja the rear end, or hinge the lid, drag style.

[sportsracer-5]

In the M03, you put hard springs up front, soft in the rear. As I build my M04M kit, do I reverse this? Or keep it the same as the M03? Logic would say to place hard in the rear due to the weight back there... is this correct?

[slow]

In the M03, you put hard springs up front, soft in the rear. As I build my M04M kit, do I reverse this? Or keep it the same as the M03? Logic would say to place hard in the rear due to the weight back there... is this correct?I believe so, this makes it level but when I went hard-front soft-rear it had more neutral handling, although still insanely oversteery.

[raman]

I run hard spring front, soft spring in the rear. With HPI x pattern I get over steer, with stock tamiya tires it actuall handles really well.. Surface that you are running on matters too.. on asphalt my car oversteers, but on concrete it sticks like glue.

[AirBoston]

Here's my latest creation on the M04L (actually an M with the L piece). A customer provided the referance photos for me yto work from. I really need to find a way to lower the body especially in the rear. Yes, I still need to crop the body posts to.

Can't seem to upload pics...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-248-1180648136.jpg
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-248-1180648159.jpg

[slow]

Here's my latest creation on the M04L (actually an M with the L piece). A customer provided the referance photos for me yto work from. I really need to find a way to lower the body especially in the rear. Yes, I still need to crop the body posts to.

Can't seem to upload pics...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-248-1180648136.jpg
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-248-1180648159.jpgOMG that is beutiful!:eek: Did you get that on 914club.com?

[AirBoston]

Thank you Slow. I was the one who put together the group buy for the 914Club, but in this case, the customer bought the shell from a 914 parts store in GA. I'm pretty happy with this one, except for the tail lights, signals and hood pins, the rest is paint.

I've been using another car as a demo piece for car shows that has oil shocks, mild motor upgrade, bearings, mini light rims and reinforced slicks. This car is a hand full! It'll swap ends at the slightest imperfection in the road surface.

Any ideas on lowering?

[slow]

Thank you Slow. I was the one who put together the group buy for the 914Club, but in this case, the customer bought the shell from a 914 parts store in GA. I'm pretty happy with this one, except for the tail lights, signals and hood pins, the rest is paint.

I've been using another car as a demo piece for car shows that has oil shocks, mild motor upgrade, bearings, mini light rims and reinforced slicks. This car is a hand full! It'll swap ends at the slightest imperfection in the road surface.

Any ideas on lowering?There's 2 different sets of oil filled shocks Tamiya offers, one plastic body and one aluminum body I believe. I on the other hand cut the front springs because they were far far too stiff but it'd be a MUCH better idea to lower it the right way with adjustable shocks. I just did that because I need to save money on the shocks for my real car.

[insomniac]

I think you're looking for the Mini CVA shocks? there's also the option of putting an O ring on the shock shaft inside the tube to limit travel and reduce ride height.

[spencercam1]

anybody have any updates?

[RS4rally1124]

anyone actually race these... my lhs recently started a class and i'm really debating if i go m-03 or 04... like the rwd just debating which will be better. as far as hop ups looks mostly like bearings shoicksand thats it. kinda cool i guess all the cars being even. so tell me why you went 04 opinions and likes and such... more than likely will get both 3 and 4 eventually

[SerpentKing101]

I'm running a M04, as there really isnt too many bodies that tickle my fancy for the M03 (That said, would love a M04L MR-2 Turbo or Trueno). The M03 is by far easier to drive, but I feel the M04 is faster.

You'll need short springs before you need oil shocks. The stockers make the ride height too high (might be OK with tires smaller than 60D) and putting spacers in the shocks to lower it will make the car 3-wheel while cornering or hop.

[slow]

Definitely get a good set of shocks and springs. Stock it handles like poo and topped out on the silver can motor it's squirly as hell and hard to keep the front pointing forward. I think I remember switching front and rear stock springs, had lots of reverse rake but I think that helped it handle better.

[TitaniumXRC]

I like this M04L thread, it will give Valuable information for my M04M. I still have the Alfa body, but I mounted a HPI mini Honda Civic body on it.
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/7269/nissan056yk1.jpg

[Kden46]

Boo FWD Body on a RWD chassis!!! J/K ;)

Looks good.

I maybe putting a Civic on my M04M one day? Going to setup my M03M for my 6 year old daughter to mess around with as it's only sitting in a box now!hehehe So thinking about making 2 Civics for both Mini's.

Was wondering has anyone tried RC18T on-road tires on a Mini? I have heard of people running RC18T off-road tires on Mini's for Rally duty So was just wondering if anyone tried the on-road tires like the Proline Road Rage tires?

[Birdman69]

Hi Guys,

I just started racing my beetle in the local TCS series and I'm getting killed by the minis.

In an attmpt to get the car going as well as possible (and because I love hop ups), I have added the following options.

Tamiya RS-540 Sport Tuned Motor #53068
Tamiya 20T, 21T AV Pinion Gear Set #50356
Tamiya M04 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink #53389
Tamiya Touring Car Hard Joint Cup Set (for Ball Diff) #53217
Tamiya (TL-01, M03) Quick Release Battery Holder #53346
Tamiya 18T, 19T AV Pinion Gear Set #50355
Tamiya 1150 Sealed Ball Bearing Set (2 Pcs) #53029
Tamiya TA03 Ball Differential #53267
Tamiya M-Chassis 60D Inner Sponge Hard Set (4 Pcs) #53255
Tamiya Tuned Spring Set (Short Type) #53333
Tamiya M Chassis Inner Sponge Set (4 Pcs) #53204
Tamiya 850 Sealed Ball Bearing Set (4 Pcs) #53030
Tamiya TA03 Super Low Friction Damper Set #53280
Tamiya M03 M04 Hollow Carbon Gear Shaft #53390
Tamiya TL-01 Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft Set #53301
Tamiya M-03 / M-04 Aluminum Servo Mount (Blue) #49443
Tamiya Clamp Type Aluminum Wheel Hub (6mm Thick) #53569
Tamiya (TL-01, M03) Toe-in Rear Upright #53345
Tamiya Hi-Torque Servo Saver #50473
Tamiya Diameter 3mm Shim Set (3 Types) #53585
Tamiya Diameter 5mm Shim Set (3 Types) #53587
Tamiya Aluminum Front Upright Set (M03 M04) #53523
Tamiya Silicone Damper Oil Medium Set #53444
Tamiya 4WD Touring & Rally Car Lightweight King Pins #53141
Tamiya M-Chassis 11-Spoke Wheels (4 Pcs / Blue) #49467
Tamiya M-Chassis 60D Reinforced Tires Type A #53340

Now for the issues.

The Aluminum Front Upright Set and kingpins do not fit.
Anyone else had this problem? Can I use other M chasis parts to fit them?
What parts of the suspension do you shim?
What spring / oil combinations have you guys had racing success with?

I appreciate your help.

[raman]

You are having the same issue I had. The C clamp that comes with older M04s is taller. You need to get the M03F version: 51238

[TitaniumXRC]

I want to know how to change the wheel base for the M04M so I can mount a Kemtech replica of a HPI mini 65 VW bus I have. I need to know what linkage I will need to know how to make the wheel base both longer, and shorter, and by how much.

[YellowStarS2k]

never mind.

[Radi]

Got a bit bored today so grabbed my Miata and took of the body,I put in the spacer and chucked on my Blackfoot body:eek: Perfect wheelbase!:D So I think I will buy another M04(either beetle or Miata(probably Miata(because of the wheels)))And give my Miata the other body or any parts that aren't up to scratch.

So here is some pics,Feel free to comment.I think it looks like a little Mazda Minitruck from Japan?:driving:

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o89/silverado--2NV/JapaneseMiniTruck005.jpg
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o89/silverado--2NV/JapaneseMiniTruck004.jpg
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o89/silverado--2NV/JapaneseMiniTruck003.jpg
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o89/silverado--2NV/JapaneseMiniTruck006.jpg

[Kden46]

Wow Radi that looks pretty kewl!

Some nice TC wheels/tires would really set it off.

[Longhair]

Does anybody know what the largest spur gear that will fit?

[miata_speed85]

After seaching around in great lengths i finally found a M04-M, price wasn't to bad 120 shipped. The question I have is. I have a Traxxas Bandit running the XL-5 stock ESC with a Trinity Speed Gem, 12-Turn double motor. Is the stock ESC on the M04 compatible, and if not would the Traxxas ESC drop on. I just really wanna go fast, without spending to much money. There's always the fact that my parts are limited due to my current state of Depolyment for good ole Uncle Sam. Somebody help me let this Speed demon out.

[TitaniumXRC]

After seaching around in great lengths i finally found a M04-M, price wasn't to bad 120 shipped. The question I have is. I have a Traxxas Bandit running the XL-5 stock ESC with a Trinity Speed Gem, 12-Turn double motor. Is the stock ESC on the M04 compatible, and if not would the Traxxas ESC drop on. I just really wanna go fast, without spending to much money. There's always the fact that my parts are limited due to my current state of Depolyment for good ole Uncle Sam. Somebody help me let this Speed demon out.

No. the stock ESC on the M04 is not compatible of handling a 12T double, and yes the Traxxas ESC should just drop on or mount with double back tape.
I've been in or assoited with the military from birth. I was raised overseas, and fully understand your parts problem. If you ever need any help with getting anything for your RC, let me know. I'm still at March ARB, Cal. Jim

[losiXXXman]

Has anyone made a buggy out of their M04L? I had a M03, but am going to convert it to M04 w/ gear cases and chassis. But am considering buying TL01B suspension arms, and buggy wheels and going that route. May even do a homemade chassis so I can mount the front end with like 20-30 degrees of caster. Any thoughts or input?...

[Dan H]

You can do that but you have to ask yourself if its really worth it. You can get another 2WD buggy pretty cheap these days.

[Kden46]

After seeing Radi BlackFoot bodies M04 it got me thinking about getting a truck body for mine.

So while looking for a body for another project I came across the Proline C10 body for the Stampede. I had seen it online before but just was'nt sure if it would fit? Luckily the lhs had a HPI Mini Civic hb body in stock that allowed me to kind of compare the 2 bodies. The Pede C10 look pretty close in dimension so I said what the heck and bought it. Figured if anything it would be a new body for my crawler! ;)

Anyways got it home and put it over the chassis and it was pretty close.
The wheelbase was just about perfect, but the width was about 5-6mm to narrow upfront and about 3-4mm out back. But close enough for me!hehehe

The body sits pretty low on the M04M, almost as low as my HPI Miata body does. I added a H8 wing to it :D I may actually use it at the next race?

[losiXXXman]

I know about cheap stuff Dan. It is mostly cause I already have the car, and think it would be fun to try. I think I could use TL01B arms or the old arms of the TA02 based buggys. Unfortunatley I'm having a hard time trackin either down right now.

[TitaniumXRC]

After seeing Radi BlackFoot bodies M04 it got me thinking about getting a truck body for mine.

So while looking for a body for another project I came across the Proline C10 body for the Stampede. I had seen it online before but just was'nt sure if it would fit? Luckily the lhs had a HPI Mini Civic hb body in stock that allowed me to kind of compare the 2 bodies. The Pede C10 look pretty close in dimension so I said what the heck and bought it. Figured if anything it would be a new body for my crawler! ;)

Anyways got it home and put it over the chassis and it was pretty close.
The wheelbase was just about perfect, but the width was about 5-6mm to narrow upfront and about 3-4mm out back. But close enough for me!hehehe

The body sits pretty low on the M04M, almost as low as my HPI Miata body does. I added a H8 wing to it :D I may actually use it at the next race?

Do you think that oil filled shocks from a TA01 would work on a M04M?:confused:
It would lift the chassis higher off of the ground for truck clearince...

[slow]

Just got my new body, a split window that I cut up into an oval window, matches my new car ya think? ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/crawlin8/DSC00809.jpg

BTW a Golf 1 GTI body came with it (Along with a Bus which I'm having wheelbase problems) I also just ordered an M-03 and plan on hooking my M-04 and M-03 to make a dual motored AWD GTI.:D

[Kden46]

Do you think that oil filled shocks from a TA01 would work on a M04M?:confused:
It would lift the chassis higher off of the ground for truck clearince...

The shocks on my M04M are 3Racing Alloy Shocks for the TA05. They are built with no limiters inside and I took off the adjusting nut to get the car to sit as low as it is in the pics. Basically a full droop setup as there is only maybe 2mm of shock piston showing between the bottom of the shock body and the spring perch.

Probably not an ideal setup, but have to say it worked well for me at our last race :D I had the shocks built with 5mm spacers inside to get the chassis as low as possible for racing. With this setup there was nearly no droop in the suspension so the tires would leave the ground sometimes on hard turns. With this setup the tires don't lift anymore and my car cornered better.

slow that body looks sweet! Both of them!

[TitaniumXRC]

Just got my new body, a split window that I cut up into an oval window, matches my new car ya think? ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/crawlin8/DSC00809.jpg

BTW a Golf 1 GTI body came with it (Along with a Bus which I'm having wheelbase problems) I also just ordered an M-03 and plan on hooking my M-04 and M-03 to make a dual motored AWD GTI.:D

The split window bug body, and the bus came from Kamtec Models over in England. The bus was first manufactured by HPI for there "Mini" RC's, which had a slightly longer wheelbase that the Tamiya M chassis. I didn't have a problem finding a chassis to mount my bus on... Monster Bus!
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/237/apr029md0.jpg

[slow]

slow that body looks sweet! Both of them!I wouldn't say that so soon, it's got a few too many holes, luckily everything structural took a biggest hit from rust.:rolleyes:

[TitaniumXRC]

I just found a truck body that fits on a M04M chassis, maybr others. The HPI Mini GT-1 Body for the HPI Wheely King is about 1/11 scale, and wide enough.


http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/7887/77053548ik7.jpg

[TitaniumXRC]

Here's more pic's of the HPI Wheely King body on a M04M.


Off-road tires

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/6641/mini001xm8.jpg

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/83/mini002oc7.jpg


Drag tires in mini wheels

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/285/mini010bg3.jpg

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/7715/mini014ol2.jpg

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/1287/mini015tm9.jpg


26mm touring wheels & tires

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9309/mini018ev3.jpg

I still need new longer body post and the front of the body is a little narrow, but i don't think it looks too bad. At least there is another body choice.

[TitaniumXRC]

If the differance between a M04M and a M04L is a spacer, where do I get a spacer to convert my M04M?

[insomniac]

If it's anythign like the M03, you'll probably need the rear chassis section from the MO4L, check your spares listing at the back of your manual for the part number.

[TitaniumXRC]

I have an updated body for my M-04M, I hope you like.

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5133/venom012lo1.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/7427/venom014zy6.jpg

I used touring car wheels & tires, and the Wheely King body.

[cnroman]

I like the 'Drag' version.

[raman]

M04L and Brushless at match made in heaven. I decided to pull the Novak XRS and Reedy Flash 15 out of my M04 and went for a Novak XBR sport with EXS 13.5.

The smooth acceleration of the Brushless motor made driving the M04 a dream. With the brushed motor, I had to use a feather touch to get the car past 40% throttle. Some will argue its because of the 15T Reedy. However I tested the car with the black can and I had the same issue. If I went too fast to 40% the rear tires would light up and the car would do a 180. I tried reducing throttle speed in radio.. made no difference.

The 13.5 Brushless was smooth as silk, linear acceleration really makes a difference. I pulled the trigger to 50% without problem. The 13.5 is about a 27T brushed, so I don't have the top I used to... it's a trade off I am willing to take for a M04 that is dead on!

[serpent17]

How's it going everyone?

Does anyone know a site where i could perchase a M04L body? Not a off raod truck body. But a onroad sports car?

Also NOT the VW beetle.


Thanks for any info

[campbuds]

I have a M-04L kit with the S2000 body. I need a new body because I pretty well beat the crap out of mine. The S2000 body is near impossible to get now though since it was discontinued some time ago. Any recommendations? I saw HPI has a nice S2000 body but it is 200mm. Which I am assuming is too big for my chassis?

[Dan H]

Its too big. I have both the M04L with S2000 body and an HPI 190mm S2000 on my TA03 and the HPI body is bigger.

Your best bet is either to get a Beetle body (which I never was a fan of) or remove the spacer to run the M04M setup in 225mm wheelbase mode and slap on an HPI Miata body. But I heard the M04L has extended axles? I'm not sure.... Also keep on the lookout for the Tamiya Miata body and the beautiful Alfa Romeo Sprint too on ebay. But they will cost a pretty penny. I hear the Tamiya Suzuki Swift body and the 06 Mini Cooper body can work although they were meant for the M03's.

[campbuds]

nah, i really want a S2000 body, or maybe an integra (if it exsists)

seems to me I will be hunting a bit

[Dan H]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-S2000-M-04-body-rare_W0QQitemZ260304553184QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item 260304553184&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18

I found this on eBay. Snatch it up while you can! I actually have a black M04L S2000 body and two extra unpainted ones, but I would only sell one of them for over double his price. :D

[megasos]

Hi!
Sorry for my english cause i'm from russia.
So i have a trouble with my M04-M with Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA body. In the turns front steering wheels get a friction with the side panels. I need to move the body some forward. How can i do that?

[Gixer]

Hi Guys,

Just bought a second hand M-04M Eunos Roadster.


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/IMG_1424.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/P1030314.jpg


Not really my colour choice and i've already placed a order for some wheels (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220431315338) tyres (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220387094668) and these tyres (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300325417982) inserts (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380131876601) and decals (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300315256894)
As these are to big and i like the stock Eunos wheels.

Also ordered a few extra batteries (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/7-2v-NiMH-4600mAh-Rechargeable-Battery-Vapextech_W0QQitemZ230325338655QQcmdZViewItemQQptZ UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item35a075c21 f&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|293%3A1|294%3A30) and figured i'll convert it over to these deans connectors (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Deans-Ultra-T-plug-connectors-for-RC-models-x-10-pairs_W0QQitemZ110408521527QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_T oysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item19b4dc5737&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1688|240%3A13 18|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50) so i can run my RS4 Pro3 (came with the M-04M) on the same stick packs.

Read through this thread (great info), but i have a few questions please.

First thing is:
Is this the stock motor?
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/IMG_1471.jpg

Took it out today, granted it's got the wrong tyres and they're pretty old, but i just could not keep the thing straight.
Anything over 1/3 throttle and it'd spin out.

This usual or just a case of bad tyres or a faster motor?

Secondly,
Thought about respraying the shell BRG (i have a Roadster in BRG so fancied this in the same colour).
But it'd be nice to have this as the bashing shell and another spare as the good shell.

Anyone know where i can order the M-04M Eunos Roadster shell please?

Also is it worth converting over to a brushless motor and Esc?

I have no intention of racing it, but if a brushless motor gives me a little more run time then it might be worth it to me.



So really just a hi :wave: and any tips and advice you can give on the questions above.



Cheers
Mark

[Old_School_RC_1]

Welcome to the miata club!

That is the stock motor. Traction issues could be old tires, if they are old then the compound starts drying out. New tires should help, but bear in mind these cars need to be driven with a light throttle touch till they get up to some speed.

New bodies are hard to come by, keep an eye on Ebay, or even try sending an e-mail to tamiyaUSA - pricey, but they might be able to source one for you. New kits are still for sale at Tower.

Brushless...depending on the turns it might be a bit much for the chassis, but it's up to you. Ran mine with a 5800SS novak and it was way too much....fun as can be, but too much for the chassis imo. Currently running with a 17t and it's very fast and more controllable.

Oil shocks and the swaybar kit make all the difference in the word to handling as well - something to keep in mind if planning to go fast.

Enjoy!!

[Gixer]

Thanks, had the full sized version for 6 years now.
Looked at buying the model before, but with shipping and import duties it was just too much.
This deal came up for the 2 cars (others a RS4 Pro3) so i snapped it up :)

As you say i wouldn't really want any more power as it is, as i simply can't keep it straight.
I'll try it with new tyres and fingers crossed it improves.

I'm not really looking for more speed from, a brushless, but i have read they improve running times slightly?


What's the limit with regards to gearing?
I don't mind losing a little acceleration for better control.

Can anything be done with the stock diff?

Lastly what shocks and sway bars do you recommend please?



Cheers
Mark

[tfedsdb]

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_2tKN8oD6rho/R96seuQuj1I/AAAAAAAAB7g/DLzPWqMIUSQ/s400/Ginetta+G4+Coupe+f+.bmp

If Tamiya released this body on the M-04M chassis, would you buy it?
I would.
It's a Ginetta G4. Italian car maker.

[Old_School_RC_1]

Thanks, had the full sized version for 6 years now.
Looked at buying the model before, but with shipping and import duties it was just too much.
This deal came up for the 2 cars (others a RS4 Pro3) so i snapped it up :)

As you say i wouldn't really want any more power as it is, as i simply can't keep it straight.
I'll try it with new tyres and fingers crossed it improves.

I'm not really looking for more speed from, a brushless, but i have read they improve running times slightly?


What's the limit with regards to gearing?
I don't mind losing a little acceleration for better control.

Can anything be done with the stock diff?

Lastly what shocks and sway bars do you recommend please?



Cheers
Mark

i had a 1990 for a few years, family reasons made me trade it in, but what a great car! I still keep my 1/10 version though.

Brushless will indeed prolong run-times, up to you whether you want to spend the money. If you can find a lower priced higher wind system, then by all means run with it!

i run a 17t motor with the stock pinion, off hand i forget all the pinion options, but a higher pinion will help tame the off the line punch somewhat. try going up 2-3 teeth and it should make the car a little more controllable.

I used regular tamiya black plastic oil shocks and the M class swaybar set. works perfect, and not too pricey.

[Gixer]

They are a nice well balanced car, only real down fall is they are woefully underpowered compared to the capabilities of the chassis.
Against most cars they are able to make up that straight line deficit if the track is twisty enough, but you always have to try that little bit harder.

I got bored with mine after a year or so and decided i wanted more power, i'm currently running somewhere between 240bhp and 260bhp.
Not sure on the exact power output as i do all my own tuning so it's not been on a Dyno yet.


Well my wheels and tyres arrived today.
Went for the stock Eunos Roadster wheels (58325)
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/IMG_1493.jpg

Went for 2 x M-Grip (50684) tyres
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/IMG_1494.jpg

And 2 x 50683 tyres
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/cbr6fs/RC%20Cars/IMG_1495.jpg

My thinking was by buying 2 different tyre types i could swap them front/rear and see which tyres work best on the various surfaces i drive it on.

Not fitted them to the car yet as my superglue had dried up so i need to get some more today.

Fingers crossed the new tyres make it a lot more controllable.



Quick question.
Would a sensored Esc help get the power down smoother on that initial acceleration?

Does anyone have any experience with the HPI drift box?
My understanding is, it has an internal gyroscope that it monitors and depending on the slip angle it corrects the steering.

Is it simply better for me to just learn how to drive it properly, or do these type of things (i believe it's the same as the futaba gyro) actually help?



Cheers
Mark

[Old_School_RC_1]

Life to an old thread.

Return of the General:

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/touring/07112010001sm.jpg
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/touring/07112010003sm.jpg

built on a stetched M04.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/touring/07112010002sm.jpg

More to do...but a nice project so far.

[Lille Buller]

Just saw these pics on the bucket.
Really nice build!

[TitaniumXRC]

I'm doing the same thing by mounting the M03 arms and dog bones to a TL01 but I think your brackets look better.

[Old_School_RC_1]

Thanks!

I was thinking about using a TL01, but wanted RWD and the M04 was perfect. Already fit fine width-wise, just needed 45mm more on the WB. Body is odd, long and very narrow. Looks great though, just need to finish up body mounts, add the front bull bar and some other details and add electronics. Do need bearings though, M04 is bone stock.

[sdrubow]

Hello all.
This is my first post here. I have a traxxas slash and now i built a m04l - bmw roadster.
I wold like to know, if is possible to use 3s Lipo on this car? I'm using a Ezrun motor, 4300Kv with 60A ESC. For to use 3S I'll need to cut a little the chassi, because the battery is large. 2S i saw it's stay ok, but with 3s any one try this??
thanks

[Old_School_RC_1]

It is certainly possible, you'll just have to find a small 3s battery or shoehorn a larger one in there. I don't know if I've ever seen one to be honest. That's a lot of power for such a small car.

[TitaniumXRC]

Life to an old thread.

Return of the General:

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/touring/07112010001sm.jpg
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/touring/07112010003sm.jpg

built on a stetched M04.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/touring/07112010002sm.jpg

More to do...but a nice project so far.

Hey Old_School_RC_1, where can I get some brackets like the ones on your M04L? Do they sell them anywhere? Can I borrow a sample so I can make a set for me? I could make you a set out of titanium:D

[Old_School_RC_1]

Nope, made mine out of aluminum. Very easy, just follow the holes on the stock parts and trace them out. OR buy the parts tree with the stock spacer that turns an M04 into an M04L and bolt 2 of them on there.

[TitaniumXRC]

Nope, made mine out of aluminum. Very easy, just follow the holes on the stock parts and trace them out. OR buy the parts tree with the stock spacer that turns an M04 into an M04L and bolt 2 of them on there.

You don't happen to have the Tamiya parts number for that tree, do you?

[Old_School_RC_1]

here's the tamiya manual download page - excellent reference.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm

The part tree is "F Parts" (chassis) 50851

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=50851

[Old_School_RC_1]

Well, I had an M04 Miata for my old 1:1, but sold the 1:1 years and years ago. Now that I've bought a new one, time to convert the NA red miata over to match the new NB. Picked up an HPI shell that's as close as i can get, and just need to paint and mount. Perfect fit on the M04 chassiss. Updates to come!

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/touring/08192010029.jpg
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/touring/08192010030.jpg

[sdrubow]

Here is mine.
http://www.rceletrico.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=18657

some pictures and a little movie.

[FoxRob]

Hi I'm new here I just joined today.

Here are some pics of my M04L and TA-03R I won it with(in GT1) at the 2000 TCS race in Staten Island, NY. They both have just about every option part Tamiya made for them that was TCS legal. I built it to run the 2000 TCS race in Maryland but a family member had gotten sick and I had to cancel my trip.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs366.ash2/64480_1615841481789_1408891098_1627862_325614_n.jp g

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs136.snc4/37156_1615839481739_1408891098_1627858_3238592_n.j pg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs724.snc4/64417_1615837081679_1408891098_1627853_7111722_n.j pg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs151.ash2/40907_1615836201657_1408891098_1627852_2437875_n.j pg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs008.snc4/33776_1615834681619_1408891098_1627847_2798009_n.j pg

As far as Tamiya cars go I also have a TL01 Ford Lightning, FF Honda Civic, TA03F with a Lancer Evo 3 body, Clodbuster with ESP chassis. Most of my other cars and trucks are Associated and Yokomo's.

[Old_School_RC_1]

Welcome! nice rides!

[FoxRob]

Thanks Old School. I have a bunch of them, won best in show with my Mclaren/Mercedes F-1.

[FoxRob]

Does anyone know of a different body I can use on a M04L? HPI or Proline etc.

[CarterTG]

Does anyone know of a different body I can use on a M04L? HPI or Proline etc.

HPI recently announced a BMW 2002 bodyshell that sports a 225mm wheelbase. If I recall, remove the chassis spacer on the M04L and you'll get it to 225mm.

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/7215/

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/7215/7215_002m.jpg

[FoxRob]

Thanks for the reply, I didn't know taking the spacer out would make it a 225mm wb. I wonder if HPI still makes the older mini bodies when I had my RS4mini I ran a VW Golf body on it, I wonder if they still make it.

[lawdog185]

Nope, made mine out of aluminum. Very easy, just follow the holes on the stock parts and trace them out. OR buy the parts tree with the stock spacer that turns an M04 into an M04L and bolt 2 of them on there.

Bumping an old thread because I had started a project like this when I saw yours. I finally got it finished this past weekend...

Here is my stretched M04L General Lee, in two versions. One is the Malibu Toys body you used, as well as one to fit the HPI Charger body for their Savage monster truck. I thought cutting a spacer was the way to go, but it was beyond my craftman skills. I had a guy through my LHS who said he could do it at work, and I even gave him a template I drew, but he never did. I finally fell back on using the Tamiya spacers off extra chassis parts trees.

The Malibu body is clearly the best, but most fragile. I had some painting/body issues with the HPI, some due to the body mold itself, some due to my inexperience, but it turned out OK. I used HPI vintage wheels like you did (26mm up front, 31mm in rear), but I used the stock wheels and painted the spokes in to mimic the Vectors on the original General.

The only upgrades are a Yeah Racing 12T/3300kv brushless motor/ESC combo and 55mm aluminum dampers on the rear. Almost too fast for the chassis, but fun. It's not much of a jumper due to the extension making it very tail heavy, plus the limited travel of the M04 arms. Next one may be more of a basher, like a DF03ra, since Kamtec now makes a 190mm Charger body. Anyway, fun scale project with the M04, and it easily converts back to other sizes for the Beetle body, etc.

[Old_School_RC_1]

Looks great -nice job! The chassis looks funny with all the spacers tucked in there.

As far as handling, don't let the show fool you - Chargers were not the best handling car...guess the handling issues make it more scale! lol.

[lawdog185]

Looks great -nice job! The chassis looks funny with all the spacers tucked in there.

As far as handling, don't let the show fool you - Chargers were not the best handling car...guess the handling issues make it more scale! lol.

Thanks, OldSchool. How did you end up fastening your Malibu body to the chassis? Because it's so clean/scale, I didn't want to drill it. I originally used the single hood front mount on the body going into a screw I put up through the front bumper, and the rear body posts cut as shown in my picture, terminating into two hex nuts I glued to the inside of the body. But, this wouldn't stay on for anything past half-speed cruising. I am now making velcro-covered platforms for the front and rear to try an get a better hold.

[Old_School_RC_1]

I didn't, it's just sitting on there at the moment. Usually what I do is make brackets (below) that attatch to the shock towers and use Velcro. Works great, and no holes!

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr84/dschlegel/Porsche959/08012010003.jpg