Corally Pan Cars Forum

[StevePond]

Started at the request of aspiringrcracer710

[LouisB]

I have a 3rd hand Corally SP12 G2, it can still hang with the G3s, 12Ms and L3s and is very tough! I race 6 cell stock on a very small carpet track and so far my best result is 2nd in the A main, and that was last race:D

[sosidge]

I have just bought a GRP SP12M - fiddled around with it to set it up for 4-cell racing (local 12th scale national, hopefully local carpert club as well) - yet to run it in anger though.

I have one main request for Corally - give us a proper instruction manual! - or at least an expolded diagram with part numbers...

[LouisB]

My car is 5 years old and that was when the instructions were last seen. It's a real pain finding part numbers, especially because it it an old kit.

Most of the people at my club get Corally spares from www.rccarinternational.com (http://www.rccarinternational.com) and searching through all those lists is a big pain without a manual:(

[sosidge]

When it comes to corally stuff, I would have thought that www.modeltech.co.uk would have been a good bet for parts (maybe not for an old kit, but for tyres and sundries) - he's the new UK distributor - just give him a bell, not much is listed in the online shop.

[LouisB]

Thanks sosidge, I might try Modeltech if my car actually breaks, but that hasn't happened yet (but it will)!! Only a spur gear so far, which my LHS ordered from RW racing. I think the Corally spurs are tougher than the RWs because quite a few people are having problems with the strength of the teeth on the RWs:(
The prices at rc car international seem pretty good, and apparently they ship very quickly. I expect would take about the same time to ship from England to Guernsey as it would from Holland to Guernsey.

[aspiringrcracer710]

I need C10X setup info

[sosidge]

Numero Un...

[sosidge]

Numero Deux...

[sosidge]

Took the car (GRP version) for it's first run last night - local carpet track.

Only changes were hard damper syrup all round, Gold rears, and Silver fronts.

Won't bore you with the details, but after a steep learning curve on tyres without the additive wiped off, the car was fantastic - you could really hammer it around without it getting out of shape - smoother was quicker though.

Slight understeer throughout the night which I think was down to bad rear ride height settings.

Broke it on my final run though - dodgy side impact with boards broke the T-bar, a rear axle mount, and stripped the spur.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Anybody have experience with Corally 10th scale pan cars?

[TEM]

aspiringrcracer710, I didn't have a C10X (actually, i dont think very many people do), but I did have a CCT. And there are a gazillion 12th scale cars around me. They seem to be the easiest cars to set up. Actually, there isn't much to set up. They race good out of the box except for tires. Pick tires that suit the surface you're on, and I suggest truing tires down a little cause big tires don't work good expecially front! A piece of graphite sets the camber, basically no adjustment there unless you want to buy some more and play around with that, 0 to -2 degrees; pick one! Theres nothing to tweak. Toe is like 0 or 1 degree. What more is there to know?, ride height?, 3-5mm. There is like nothing to it. Make sure there is always surrup in the pod. Geez man, C10X.. If you can handle one of them things on 6 cells, you probably have your own special setup already!

[LouisB]

I've seen a couple race (mod) and with the stock set-up it was dialed. There were normally 2 racing in the Pro-10 championship and they both used the stock set-up. Our track was low-grip and the impressive grip generated by the Corally made it stick well. It's better suited to mod than stock because it's heavier than the L2 and Trinity. The only parts that broke were spur gears and T-bars.

Nice car sosidge:D
I would post a pic of mine but I'm too ashamed of the new but heavily battered body!

[aspiringrcracer710]

Is there a big Pro10 scene where alot of you guys are?

[sosidge]

Pro 10 is dead (unless someone can prove me wrong).

There seems to be a little 10th scale pan oval left (LTO cars), and some F1 racing (but I think Tamiya's F201 is killing off the pan cars). 1/12th scale is a minority pursuit.

There isn't even a world champs for the Pro 10 anymore.

[LouisB]

My club has finished with Pro-10 now, I raced in the final championship with a 2nd hand car. They are amazing fun, especially mod but there just weren't enough people:(
It would be cool if there was a Pro-10 revival but it would need a new car (like an AE L4) to attract attention, but what company would spend money on a new car for a dying class??

[SoCalBoomer]

Pro10 isn't completely dead, don't read us our last rights quite yet.

We've got a good sized class running in Southern California and another in Northern California. From what I hear, there's a decent sized group in Florida and another in the Midwest.

Get outside of the US and there's quite a bit more - as an example, Japan has a BUNCH of Pro10's. . .in fact they have their own National just for Pro10. . .

[aspiringrcracer710]

When ya think about it, if all the Pro10 racers in all those areas came out to the Onroad nationals, they could pretty easily fill the entry shortcomings that have occurred since ROAR first started excluding it as a class

[aspiringrcracer710]

CMON CORALLY PAN CAR OWNERS!! ttt

[Taz_S]

2003 NORRCA On-Road Nats
2003 NORRCA On-Road Nats
Here is the final Date for 2003 NORRCA On-Road Nats. They will be held @ SpeedWorld Raceway in Roseville Ca. Here are some other dates for races in California.

NORRCA State Championships - March 1 ( Show Time, Bakersfield)

4th Annual Speedworld Challenge Cup - April. 26-27 (SpeedWorld Raceway) 1 1/2 day race starts Saturday @ and 2:00 p.m.
great warm up race for Nationals.

2003 NORRCA Electric On- Road Nationals May 16-18 (SpeedWorld Raceway)

2003 Reedy Race - May 23-25 ( Tamiya Track) Southern Cal.

All info and fliers for Speedworld races, will be out in the next 3 weeks or sooner.

Thank you and good luck.

http://www.speedworldraceway.com/

[sosidge]

I'll just keep the thread rolling with a couple of notes.

Spent the weekends at the South Shields National (British).

Qualified 33rd out of 43 both days - then finished in the same position I started from in my final both days.

Out of ten runs, I think I had about three I was happy with (where I drove consistently and the car performed well) - other times the car felt really slow (4-cell mod, 12 turns), and I was struggling to make time - I blame my mistreated 3000HV's.

I felt I could have gone a little quicker both days - but I would have only moved up a few places, I wouldn't have jumped up a final. So overall feeling was an average performance, not a disappointment, but not a morale booster either.

Time now for some observations on preparing the 12M GRP version (which comes pre-built, of course)

1. There's a noticeable amount of play on the front kingpins - I took this out with some 4mm shims by Yokomo - 0.63mm per side. The Graphite wishbones are a thicker material - they only needed 0.13mm of shimming, if that. The thick wishbones can also foul the front wheel at certain ride height settings - I trimmed the compund sticker, and bevelled the lower leading edge of the wishbone to sort it.
2. The rear axle is a very tight fit, and won't spin freely out of the box. The "manual" mentions loosening one of the hubs - but I can't see any allen screw as mentioned. I ended up taking a lot of material (1mm or so) off the left hand wheel hub (the piece the wheel locates onto). I also filed the plastic spacer that goes into the outside of the left wheel rim until it was flush with the wheel (mine was a flashy moulding). The axle will now spin freely.
3. The rear diff came unlubed - I've rebuilt it with a little silicone ball-diff grease on the balls, and plenty of Associated black grease on the thrust assembly inside the right rear wheel. Smooth and slip-free.
4. I relubed the rear damper and front kingpins - the kit comes with Soft syrup in the rear, and dry on the front. For carpet, I've used Extra Hard rear syrup, and Soft on the front.
5. I put a dab of threadlock into the metal-to-metal screw fittings, after my T-bar came loose during a practice run.
6. I've modded the car for 4-cell - to convert, you need to remove the u-shaped stick pack holders. The 3mm-ish aluminium spacer needs to be fitted under the damper beam mounts, to raise it so the top of the damper plate (or whatever these bits are called!) clears the motor. The Corally saddle mounts need one cell trimmed off, they also need a little trimming to fit the longer 3000's, I halved the width of each edge with a knife. They then bolt on, with the battery mount posts acting as the nut (no seperate nut needed). Then you use the long battery mount (obviously).

In retrospect, I think the graphite car would be a superior carpet choice (well, duh) - the GRP car felt a little too understeery and unresponsive to me (but I like a stiff car). Car was very driveable though. The graphite wishbones (fitted to replace a broken part) sharpened the front of the car up.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hey yall, what is a good Pro10 body I could look into getting?

[LouisB]

I think the hot bodies toyota is supposed to be pretty good, but the Protoform P35 is best (but rare and discontinued). There's a good Pro-10 forum over at RC Tech (http://www.rctech.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=5) where you can ask general Pro-10 Qs.

[aspiringrcracer710]

You think that there may be a few of em on Tower? if not, where is my next best option

[LouisB]

Tower don't seem to have them in stock but you could see if they could get one ofr you. There's a place in the Netherlands called R/C car international (http://www.rccarinternational.com/) where you can get bodies and Corally spares. You can work out the shipping on the site and see if it's OK (shouldn't be too bad).

[Taz_S]

Just droping in to see how the Corally driver are doing?

[k_bojar]

If anyone is interested in an old Corally 1/12th scale - shoot me an email. I have 1 rolling chassis and enuff parts to rebuild a 2nd complete chassis. I will let these go at a reasonable price. Both are the old school "aluminum" or coral chassis.

I'm not trying to get out of the For Sale/Trade forum, but I was looking thru this category and noticed this thread. If I've offended anyone, then I appologize :)

kevin