MRC MT-10S forum

[StevePond]

Started at the request of shadmaster4

[SteveK]

I love the MRC MT10S/M trucks. Very good features and performance for a low price.

[shadmaster4]

Thanks SteveP, for making htis for me. I have a MRC MT10S. Anyone else have it? We can talk, or maybe trade parts. (that may be in the wrong section)

[dont slow down]

Hey hey!!! Yes, somebody other than me has this truck! This is one tough truck, wouldnt you agree? lets see some pics! here is mine, ive had it for about 5 1/2 years and ive sort of converted it to a monter truck. all that i really did was make some custom body mount extensions and add some bigger tires and a big body.

MRC MT 10-s

LRP Quantum Pro Sport ESC
Trinity Speed Gems 16t motor
full ball bearings
Cirrus High Torque servo
Futaba Radio equipment
Team Associated Carbon Fiber rear suspention arms
RPM Slingshot rims
Pro-Line Masher tires
Pro-Line F-350 body with rear view mirrors
Custom aluminum rear shock tower and skid plates

[dont slow down]

And here is the chassis shot.

[shadmaster4]

Cool, I'll get pics of mine today, it is tough as nails as you said. I want to get some aluminum skid plates extremely badly, because the stock shocks bottom out. But I have bought some Associated RC10GT aluminum shocks. -Zack

[shadmaster4]

Hey, do you have a spare rear axle? I'll buy one from me, I jumped 15 feet, and I landed at an angle and it broke. I sent you an e-mail. If you have one, or know where to get one, help me out! Thanks- Zack

[dont slow down]

yeah shocks are hard to get right for me too. i think i found a good setup though. i got some associated gold aluminum shocks and i put some 50 weight oil in them and put trinity blue springs for the tmaxx on the rear. its a perfect setup for jumping. once school starts up again, ill be making a new front skid plate for mine, if you want i could cut you out another. let me know.

[dont slow down]

here is a pic of the skid plate im going to make, its not much but its better than nothing, plus i will only cost you shipping, most likely. i am in two welding classes at my school and my teacher will let me do almost anything, so ill check it out, and hopefully i can just dig up some aluminum scrap so it wont cost anything. just shipping. i only have one axel and its seriously messed up, the part where the dogbone goes in is all bent up. ill try to find that phone number for you though. i think i know where it is.

[rellekndak]

I really like this truck. It has to be one of the strongest built trucks out there. The only problem with this truck is it is getting hard to find parts, so I bought a lot of spare parts, mostly suspension parts (thinking I would need them) when I bought the truck. I have done almost anything you could think of to this thing and the only parts I have wrecked are;
1)Bent a dogbone - jumped it off the back porch only about '3 high but it caught the back wheel on a pole when it landed. can still be straightened though.
2)wrecked a Futaba ESC - I let my 4 year old son drive it, he decided to run it into a big puddle of water, the whole truck was under water and he was still trying to drive it.:rolleyes:
Here is a pic of my truck. yesterday I built a front aluminum bumper for it. Dont have pics of that, yet .

GOTTA LOVE RC

Chad:D

[shadmaster4]

hey, shoot me that number please, I have found a part at King RC, for $5. I really want some universals for this, it would be kick ass. I'm still interested in the phone number or e-mail for that place you know of.

[dont slow down]

okey dokey, i found the number. its for mrc so it will be direct from the company, its (732) 225 2100, that should be it, it was the last time i used it. dude, i have been looking for some cvd's for this truck forever!! i can not find one pair that will fit. they are all too freakin short. it makes me upset cause the dogbones are really sloppy and cause quite a bit of vibration in the rear. oh btw i have 5.25 for the axel, and you get two. so anyway, yeah, im done here for now, hope that is still the right number, let me know if it works.

[shadmaster4]

Did you say you have two for $5.25? I'm talking about the axle.
the axle on one end recieves the dogbone, goes through the bushings then connects to the wheels. You know? Its no. 112 in the manual. If you have two in good condition, I will buy em from you. Let me know- zack

[dont slow down]

yeah i know what you are talking about, im saying that if you buy them from mrc, you get 2 for 5.25. lol, sorry bout the mix up.

[rellekndak]

I just bought a MT10S off of ebay. It is still in the box and has not been assembled yet. Parts are still in plastic bags. This will be my second MRC MT10S that I own. Great trucks, but anybody that has ever owned one already knows that.:p
Chad

[shadmaster4]

how much did you buy it for?

[rellekndak]

I paid $49.50 for it. Kind of allot for an outdated truck. but it is worth it to me. I have allot of spare parts for it. The main reason I bought it was for my wife, she wants to build a truck. What better one to learn on. Actual kits are getting hard to find also.

Chad

[shadmaster4]

I forgot, does it come with a remote and battery? If it did, that was an awsome deal.

[rellekndak]

No remote or battery, only the truck kit , mechanical speed controller, and stock motor I dont know how many turns the stock motor has.
It will gain a new 20 turn motor and a new futaba 230cr ESC.
Other wise I am going to "try" to leave it up to my wife.:D
Chad

[shadmaster4]

Cool, I suggest you get like a 15 or 17 turn instead. Then, set the slipper a little light, On concrete, if you give it all, it should slip for a few feet, then, it wil be fast as crazy. I have an Orion Rush 15t double ball bearing, with ajustable timing and servicable, and paid $17 when it was on sale at towerhobbies. It is an awsome motor.

[shadmaster4]

My car is up and running! Anyone done any mods to thier MT10S? I saw someone put a stampede drivetrain in thiers on e-bay, but I was wondering if anyone has done it to thiers?

[shadmaster4]

Any one here?

Hello?

[SteveK]

Mine is stock but for bearings, Technacraft titanium tie-rods (From my RC10T), various 1/8" hinge pins, and Associated RC10T shocks. It's got MT10M tires and I'm going to mount and paint my Pro-Line Stampede F150 sometime this winter (Too cold to drive: Way below freezing).

I might modify it some to make it compatible with Associated 10T wheels, adding RC10T3 steering knuckles and axles up front, and then some HPI RS4 NMT rear axles (They can use Associated wheels if you remove the 12mm hex).

[rellekndak]

I built an aluminum front bumper for mine. I also just finished painting a new body for it (a 99 chevy pro line). Other then that just bearings, ESC, and motor.
The truck doesn't really need any hopups other then to make it look cool. It is one TOUGH truck.
I want to put new aluminum shocks on it tho.

[rellekndak]

another pic.

[shadmaster4]

coool, I ma intersted in the wheels/tires once you get that done...I want to do that to.

[rellekndak]

here is some pics of the new body for my truck. This is also my first time doing a paint job on a body.

[rellekndak]

another pic

[rellekndak]

another one

[rellekndak]

last one

[shadmaster4]

got any pics of under the hood? what motor do you run in it? have you ever messed with the ball diff? Got any hop-ups or mods on it?

[rellekndak]

Mine is mostly stock. I built a aluminum front bumper for it(pictured earlier),Ball bearings everywhere,all new balls in the diff.(I was running it too loose and put flat spots on the old ones, now I run it as tight as I can get it),And it is running a Midnight Motor(I don't know how many turn it is),And a Futaba cr330 ESC

We are building one for my wife also. Hers is also mostly stock. It has all ball bearings, and a 19 turn Trinity motor, and a Futaba cr230 ESC. She has not painted a body for hers yet.

As soon as we got done with hers we are going to race them together (for fun of course). Then we will see what setups work better for each one.

Gotta Luv RC
Chad

This is the only pic of inside the truck that I have right now. This one is from last summer, I was running it in a big sand box.

[rellekndak]

here it is

[shadmaster4]

I have sorta retired mine for a month or two.. I need to rebuild my ball diff badly, and I messed it up (I have only opened a ball diff once). I also need to replace my slipper pads also, no matter how tight I make it, the slipper seems to slip. Around december, I ahd the truck doing awsome, but I ran into problems lately, and have been running my XX4......I will get the new parts as soon as my mowing season starts back up....:rolleyes:

[shadmaster4]

Do you know what those little teeny balls that are after the ball diff ones, but where one of the dogbones go into, in the diff? I counted and I am mising one or two,.... What are they?

[rellekndak]

First are you shur it is your Slipper clutch slipping?? Mine was like that and it was the diff slipping, so it ruined all the big balls in the diff.
With the small balls that are in the output shaft, I beleive they are so it will not loosen your diff setting when it starts to slip. But that is just a guess I dont really know.

[SteveK]

I had a lot of problems with my ball diff slipping, so I rebuilt it like an Associated Stealth. I replaced the diff and thrust balls with Associated units, added Associated thrust washers (For the smaller balls), and a thrust screw and diff nut and thrust spring. I also used their Stealth diff and thrust lube. Worked great.

When setting the diff, tighten the srew down until you just feel it bottom out (Not too hard or you can stretch the nut and loosen it's grip), and then back off about 1/8th of a turn. For security you could try a tiny bit of light threadlock, but not too much.

For the slipper, just rebuild it carefully, not touching the slipping surfaces once they are cleaned with alcohol. I also used Associated thrust grease here too, and replaced the all-metal nut with a nylon-insert locknut.

I considered having a new topshaft machine: From the slipper roll-pin in it would be all MRC specs, and from the roll-pin out it would fit more readily available Associated slipper parts.

Has anybody tried to buy parts lately? MRCs site is down, and I can't find any parts on the mail-order sites I usually visit. I just sent them an email about buying direct, but if the part supply is dried up, I'll just cut my losses. You can only replace a handfull of parts with non-MRC units (Rear hub carriers, front spindles and caster blocks, shock towers if you custom make them, etc).

[SteveK]

I just got an email from MRC:
Steve,
Yep, you can buy direct from us if you like. Just let me know what parts you need and I tell you whether we have them and what the price is. Thanks.

Tim Sandor

Their email is mrcsupport@modelrectifier.com Not sure of what parts they would, but I assume they must have or will be able to get pretty much anything.

[HankTheDwarf]

Hey it's good to see this forum!!! I've been kicking but with my M for probably 10 years. I cought hell on another forum comparing it to the Stampede. Sheep follow what everyone else is doing, but we know what's best. When Towers discontinued them things got tough. I've been modifying mine ever since. I've got lots of solutions and welcome emails and other ideas.
Nomatter what I do to my diff I twist it appart so I cleaned it up and gluded it solid, wear out the out drives alot too. Ditch the rear axles and put in a pair of CVD's for the HPI RS4MT. Just a little mod required to the hubs. I use alot of Associated parts. Extended the front shock towers and run 4" shocks all around. I run an old Novak Tepest Speedo that will take 12 cells if you force it. And a Magnetic Mayhem motor. The torque of the motor lets you run taller pinions. Might find some pics. Later

[shadmaster4]

sweet...show me what you mean by modification on the cvd part...I would love to know... How did you extend the towers?

How much was this truck new? It seems so awsome...Ball diff...Oil Shocks...

[HankTheDwarf]

The MT-10 cost $109 new which was a steal at the time. For the CVD, the stub axle is slightly shorter than the stocker so I recessed the outer bearing in a little. and shaved the hub down to meet the new bearing surface. I have a crappy side by side pic you might be able to make out. As for the shock towers I cut the ears off another tower and bolted them to the top. I probably should make a whole new tower but it works.

[HankTheDwarf]

-

[HankTheDwarf]

Last pic, sorry if too many.

[SteveK]

RCCA did an article on jump trucks, and they chose the MRC Ironman: Same as the MT10S, just had larger tires, molded shock towers, no slipper, and a Dodge Ram body. One of the mods they made was to add some RPM Traxxas rear hub carriers, and those fit HPI RS4 MT CVDs. All that allowed them to use Pro-Line Agitator wheels with 12mm hexes.

If the CVDs are like the regular RS4 NMT axles, then you can use Associated 3/16" rear wheels on them too.

[shadmaster4]

I want some nice shocks for this. Did someone say that there was a retro fit for the slipper? What slipper part retro fit to what? How do I know when I need to replace the balls in the diff? Thanks- Zack

[SteveK]

Shocks-
Use Associated, Losi, or HPI truck shocks. Shorter ones up front (1.02 Associated's, similar length HPI and Losi shocks), and longer in the rear (1.35 Associateds). They fit just about perfectly, you only need a few spacers inside or out to fine-tune the length of the shocks.

Slipper-
No retrofit that I know of, but anything that uses the same shaft will fit (I think 4mm). You could look at Traxxas stuff. Or you can get parts from MRC.

Diff-
Use Associated's thurst screw and nut, washers, balls, and spring, and the 1/8" main diff balls. Use Associated Stealth diff lube and thrust grease too. The dimensions are slightly different, but the overall design is very close.

[SteveK]

You should closely examine the balls and washers. If the washers have a detectable groove in them, not just a shiny path, then they need to be changed. You might be able to flip the washers over to get a fresh side, but after that you'll need new washers.

The balls can be noticably pitted, dulled, or even flat-spotted. Put them on a piece of glass and see if they roll smoothly. Use a magnifying glass if you have to.

[HKhan]

I recently inherited a mt-10s from my older brother. i used to drive it a long time ago. anyways im gettin into r/c now and this thing has been through hell. this is a strong freakin truck. we used to get our r/c's out and bash em into each other. my brother used a tamiya touring benz dont know the chassis and i used the mt10s. i beat the hell out of his benz and i have only broken one part on this truck and it has had the gearbox replaced once. Now, 4 years later, i feel like i need a hobby.
My question is: how can i make this stupid thing faster? I'm running a Tekin Rebel ESC (although the reverse function stopped working) and stock motor.
Oh and im getting my TL-01 Tamiya on Monday :)
Oh, and i know nothing about r/c. whoever answers this is gonna have to break it down into very detailed descriptions.

[dnasupercars]

Hey I have an Mt10s that I got on ebay that I am selling it is in very nice condition. The only thing Isee missing on the truck is the gear cover. I am selling it because I bought a gas on road car and no longer have the desire for a monster truck. The truck has the stock motor in it but no electronics. The truck appears to have been run very litte. I am taking best offers and buyer pays shipping too. :rolleyes:

[Freedom]

Hey guys,

What size bearings do I need?

[offroadford4x4]

I need the front lower suspension arms for MRC MT10S stadium truck. We broke one tonite on Dads truck so I need to find him a replacement.

If you have any, or know of any, please let me know. Also, If you know that we could use somehting in it's place (AE, Losi, Etc) please let me know.

Thanks.

[Kyo-Spec85]

Anybody have a stock MT-10S for sale??? My brother and I are looking for one again. Had 2 back in the day, but regretfully had to sell them. Thanks!
-Jerry

[Leam]

I have a MT-10S, I could never get the transmission/differential and clutch set properly. They always seem to slip. I tightened the clutch as much as it would go, then the transmission/differential would slip. I've since replaced the clutch. I tried tightening the differential by popping out that little black plug and using an Allen wrench to tighten it, it keeps loosing up. I took apart the transmission last night and pulled out the directions that came with the truck (8 years old?), the directions say to hold the 2 ends of the differential with flat bladed screwdrivers and the gear should rotate slowly. Now the truck started bucking. The truck is stock other than bearings. Please let me know how to set this thing. Thank you.

[t-type86]

Ok fellas.. lets dig this sucker back up from the grave...

it looks like there was some real knowledge on this board in relation to this truck,.,, its been about 10yrs since mine has moved and I know it has trans/diff problems..
lets do some research on "will fits" and get these things back on the track!

Keep in touch
Joe

[t-type86]

I just found this on another board... Ill be trying most of these suggestions out soon.. hope it helps g/l

Joe//


This is some really old info but I figured I'd bring this to the new board just in case somebody found it useful.

I have the MT 10M and it is a really good truck if you address the weak spots of it--mainly the diff. I raced mine against Stampedes and HPI MT's (all trucks ran monster truck tires) and had a lot of success with it. With the upgrades I'll list below, the 10M is a comprable truck to the Pede. Speed-wise, I'll give the nod to the 10M but the Pede wins when it comes to jumping. The big difference between the two is that the 10M will be more maintenance down the road because it has a ball diff. The upgrades I did to mine will help correct that to an extent though. Here's the parts and part numbers for everything I have done. I pulled this out of an older post so prices may vary:

All prices are from Tower Hobbies at the time that I purchased them. Listed with the parts are their part numbers.
Diff Parts (Associated):
T-Nut & Diff Bolt 6575 $1.90
Diff Balls 6581 $10.99 Losi equivalent works too
Thrust Bearings 6574 $1.90
Thrust Washers 6573 $2.89

CVD's No one makes hop up cvd kits but HPI RS4 MT cvd kit works. You also need HPI axle carriers. Bearings already in the trucks stock carriers will work in HPI carriers.
MIP Shiny CVD Kit for RS4 MT REAR MIPC1275 $32.99 Make sure you use the kit for the rear NOT the front.
HPI Axle Carriers (HPI Part Number A340) This is referred to as the bulk head set. Don't remember price but it's not expensive, less than $10.00


I use Midnight Pumpkin tires and highly recommend them. Great all-purpose tire. TAMC6301 $19.69 That is for a full set of 4 tires.
When replacing the diff parts with the new ones, if you haven't already flipped the diff rings once you can use them again. When you put them back in, just use the opposite side and you have a flat surface again for the diff balls to ride against.
I guarantee if you use these hop-ups I listed you will notice a tremendous difference in performance. Speed is increased, diff action is smoother and it sounds much better than the stock diff when running.
Good Luck to all who use these parts and lots of fun. For those who use them, please tell us of your thoughts about them and your own opinion about the overall performance increases.

[t-type86]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=80122&highlight=mt10

another thread on this msg board with some info

once again
g/l
Joe

[rellekndak]

I still have 2 of these great trucks. One is all stock, the other is modified a lot. But it will kick but on my stampede or rustler. They can take allot more abuse then my rustler and stampede can.

As for the rear end, if you run them to lose they will melt the gear inside right where the ball bearings are and break the gear. I have not found a replacement for mine so I pulled all the ball bearings out and melted small pieces if mechanics wire into it with my soldering gun. It works great, the only thing is now it is a posi track rear-end.

[t-type86]

sweet so you locked the rear up..

in case you dont want to go throught the trouble it looks like someone did find some diff parts that will fit..

[triggeraa]

I recently dug up my old MT10S. It's been years since I put it away due to a blown/stripped differential. It has a super rooster esc, Airtronics 2 ch am receiver and servo and a Reedy Tri-Sonic 13 turn triple motor. Is there any parts I can get to replace the differential. I tightened the slipper clutch to no avail. As I thought that was th problem originally. Anyone know of any other fix/replacement available? Thanks.

[t-type86]

read through most of this thread an you will find your answers...

will fit diff parts are listed by number on post#55

If I get more time Ill start to scan in the instruction manual

[triggeraa]

Cool. Thanks

[t-type86]

As promised in an earlier thread... here is the MT10 manual scanned in

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=ZSF81ZKG

[t-type86]

To those of us keeping a dinosaur running...

I picked up all the parts that make up the traxxas vxl slipper system that apply to the rustler. To my disbelief all the parts fit very nicely to the stock MT10 input shaft. All that was needed was some bushing/filler material to make up for the end portion where the diamater of the shaft decreses a small bit.

Here are the part numbers for what I ordered:

5116: Ball bearings, blue rubber sealed (5x11x4mm) (2)
5552: Rebuild kit, slipper clutch (steel disc/ friction pads (3)/ spring/ pin/ 4.0 mm NL)
2554: Screws, 3x6mm cap-head machine (hex drive) (6)
5556: Slipper pressure plate & hub (aluminum alloy)
4686: Spur gear, 86-tooth (48-pitch)

please feel free to ask any questions if there are any...

HAVE FUN!

Joe

[tshaw]

Hi all... i am new to this forum. I've had my MT10S since i was a kid (i'm 24 now). I want to sell it. It is all stock, comes with the original (weak) battery, Futaba radio gear, and charger.

Anyone interested?

[tshaw]

I listed my MT10S at the classifieds forum

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=257699&highlight=mt10s

i also have a link there for pictures, please reply to that thread if interested.