View Full Version : Ready to learn
biturbo15
01-27-2003, 09:21 PM
How fast do you guys go...? I am startin to think that I am a total newb or something. I thought I was going a lot faster with my 9t but I guess I am not. I clocked my car today. I went 100ft in 2.20 seconds. I ran many times and this is my average. My lowest being around 2.1 and highest being around 2.4 I did like 5 runs. Any ways I found out that if you go 100 ft in 2.2 seconds you are going like 31 or 32 mph. I was expecting at LEAST 35. I am running 22/93 gearing and my motor is hott. My batteries are extremely hott.
I have been reading rc magazines and learning as much as a I can on electric cars. The people in the magazines seem to have their cars set up pritty close to mine. But my car only goes 30!! is this what I should expect from a 9t?
My tranny is not binding at all and rolls freely.
Motor timing is at 20 degrees.
26mm advan tires
trinity speed gem 9t double
What am I doing wrong?
biturbo15
01-27-2003, 09:41 PM
I dont know if this will help but here is a pic of my car.
SegaBowMan
01-27-2003, 09:43 PM
it could be that your calculations are off. how did you get the time?
biturbo15
01-27-2003, 09:47 PM
My friend used his stop watch while I ran it.
I measured the 100 ft with a measuring tape.
I think he is pritty accurate but I will try again tomarrow with a different friend just to make sure.
KevanB
01-27-2003, 09:52 PM
heeeeeeeey you have a rally too?
My car mysteriously runs slow for its motor tooo!!!! Maybe its becuase the car is not built for touring...
k_sw31
01-27-2003, 10:04 PM
Well, using a stop watch method, it wont be very accurate, you speed could vary up to 5 mph. Even so, it is pretty slow for a motor like that. One thing you'll want to check is your batts, try cycling them 3 times or so to sorta 'rejuvanate' them, you'll have a bit more punch and voltage that will give you a little extra oomph to squeeze every bit of top speed out :)
Another issue is that car ain't really designed for that much motor, i know that the rs4 mt is only desgined to take motors around 15 turns, and since they have the same tranny, that probably the case with your rally. And, the drive train isn't very efficient, I'm sure if you threw the same setup in a xxx-s or a tc3 you'd be getting and extra 5 mph :)
one more thing you'll want to check is make sure your rims are not rubbing on the hubs, that can decrease speed a lot, as can over tightend wheel nuts :)
InspGadgt
01-27-2003, 10:05 PM
was that from a standing start or did you start measuring the 100ft at full speed...from a standing start that calculation will only give you average speed.
SegaBowMan
01-27-2003, 10:13 PM
yea if your timing from a standstill your numbers will be low. I don't know much about gear ratios but you could be over geared or under geared because you say your motor and batteries are very hot.
k_sw31
01-27-2003, 10:14 PM
Yeah, see if you can find a gearing chart, that may be your problem, but your electronics will be hot regardless because of the high amp draw from such a powerful motor :)
SegaBowMan
01-27-2003, 10:14 PM
oh and guys I think that is a Sport 2
biturbo15
01-27-2003, 10:26 PM
lol thats funny. My car is a hpi sport 2 not the ralley. It has an upgraded rear shock tower that looks like the ralley but really it is a different one.
http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm
Check out the ralley and the sport 2. Not that much different except ralley has higher ground clearence, diff shocks, diff shock towers, and a few other things are different. My car is only 7 mm off the ground in back and 5 or 4 mm off the ground in front. The drive trains are the same though I think. I also got low friction belts on them though and that helps a little. This car is a lot like the pro 2 and that car is very competative so I dont think it is the pully system.
There was a very slight rubbing on the front left wheel which I fixed. But it was so small I dont think it mattered a hole lot.
I made the wheel nuts slightly less tight. Hope that helps. I also hope my wheels dont fall off.
SegaBowMan
01-27-2003, 11:05 PM
try a speed run with the body off. that may help out a bit. but if you crash you will do a lot more damage. Try and tighten the lock nut dead center of the rim. those numbers are really low. any car should be able to hit 30-35 with a 13 turn.
LRSeriesIII
01-27-2003, 11:09 PM
So did you measure from a standing start? I'd also try a few different gearing combinations, see if you get better performance.
yep, agreed with above. first thing's first, make sure you are at top speed for the whole 100ft, so get a running start from behind. also, your gearing might be too low. think of a real car going full throttle in first gear. changing to a higher gear will increase the speed.
biturbo15
01-27-2003, 11:18 PM
I KNOW!!! that is why I am hella confused right now! I am confident with my lock nut positioning. The last few times I ran with my body off I broke stuff.... 100 foot speed runs with the body off. I may or may not take it off I havent decided yet. Could I be undergeared really far? Could that heat up my motor? SHould I try a 24t pinion? or an 87 spur? I have 22, 24, 25t pinions and 93, 87t spurs. Right now my final drive ration is 8.883 I dont know what that means exactly but whatever. with a 22t pinion and 87 spur I would have a final drive ratio of 7.938. WIth a 24t pinion and 93 spur I would have a final drive ratio of 8.148. I hope that gives you some more info.
biturbo15
01-27-2003, 11:24 PM
I was at top speed for the hole thing. I am starting to think it might have been the surface I was riding on. The street was kinda bumpy I am gonna go to a better street tomarrow.
SegaBowMan
01-27-2003, 11:29 PM
I don't know but isn't a good ratio like 6.5? it does sound like your geared incorrectly. try the 22 87 combo
biturbo15
01-27-2003, 11:54 PM
ya it says that 22/87 fits my car but it doesnt!!!!!!!! I am going for the 24/93.
I hope that helps.
biturbo15
01-28-2003, 12:10 AM
crap I have a 23 not a 24.... I have a feeling that I am just way undergeared. I am goin with the 25/93 That is a big jump I know but I think it is right.
rx78gp03s
01-28-2003, 01:31 AM
having a gear ratio of 8.148 wont make your motor hot, especially with a 9 turn. plus i think it's correct for such a motor. i run around a 6.3 ratio on my stock rs4 pro, but thats because a stock motor will have more torque then a mod. and im' pulling around 25-30mph range already.
biturbo15
01-28-2003, 08:14 PM
O MY GOD I AM A DUMB BUTT:::::::::::::::::
will someone please help me i am a complete retard. why does my car blow? I changed my gearing to 25-93, and i have a frickin 9 turn, and my car puts out at about 32! I might just be a dork and may be doing the measurments wrong, but im pulling my hair out over this.
Whats the DEAL here? why is my 9 turn, sucking the male organism of life?:mad:
save me..... please....... just........ save me........
SegaBowMan
01-28-2003, 08:56 PM
your tires look worn out.
your motor is no good.
you have no luck with r/c. :D
you're a complete butt.:D
Something is wrong with your timing.(motor)
maybe your not going full speed yet.
something is wrong with your timing(human error with stop watch.)
Let someone else run the car and you time it. Also do it with a freshly charged battery. maybe your esc isn't set right.
biturbo15
01-28-2003, 09:14 PM
ouch.... ok I am hoping to take that as a joke. Otherwise you are just really mean.
My tires are pritty good,
I dont think there is any thing wrong with my motor. The com is in pritty good shape and the wires or brushes are not discolored.
luck... I dont know how to help that. Maybe I should attach a 4 leaf clover to my car. :)
calling me a complete butt is uncalled for...
I am going full speed the hole way.
Definently open up to errors on the stop watch. I have a friend who has a speed gun and I am gonna ask to barrow it.
Please help me I dont know what is wrong and I hate my car. I am upping my gearing even more I am now going to 25/87. Is that too much?? My motor was hot after my last run but I could hold my finger on it.:D :D
Just admit it, your a newbie and don't know what you're doing!
SegaBowMan
01-28-2003, 10:23 PM
yea man I was joking on my last post except for the things related to the car. You're not a butt nor a Newb because you can drive a 9 turn motor in a straight line. I can't even drive my stock TL01 in a straight line (well I can but not during hard acceleration). I don't know about your luck though:D hey we have good times and we have bad times. it's all in fun
biturbo15
01-28-2003, 10:23 PM
ok no I know somewhat what I am doing... I just want your help because I am confused. Stop hassling me and help me. Please. If it matters to you that i started this hobby 3 months ago and I am learning as fast as I can give me a break.
sega bow man that is one of the only comments that I have gotten today that hasnt hurt my pride. Thank you.
I am trying to help you Biturbo,you need to go to a six cell stock class where you're more apt to learn, you don't need the speed and power of a modified, this is your problem, you just said you've only been in this hobby for three months.I've been in this hobby for 10+ years and know that modified racing is only for the advanced racer not the new inexperienced racer.If you don't want to listen to the people that know what's going on then don't ask.I don't mind helping someone but when they refuse to take advice there isn't much one can do to help.For someone that's only been racing for three month's to be trying to race a modified car is crazy,that's not meant to hurt your feeling's but it's the truth.The sooner you realize this the better off you will be.Tuck away the mod motor and pull out the stock motor you will be much better off.
RadicalRustler
01-29-2003, 08:53 AM
Biturbo, do the speed runs downhill. it will increase speed, make you feeel better, and let you calm down and not go bald over this.
RadicalRustler
01-29-2003, 08:59 AM
3xs, biturbo isn't racing yet,he wants to go fast (he never said he was going racing with the 9t) and says he can drive his 14t perfectly fine. take a look at the title "Need more speed, Addicted i am" (sounds like yoda) he didn't say "need to learn to drive, crashing i am" did he? why do you think that muscle cars were so poular? because of the speed/power that they gave the driver. some couldn't turn fast b/c they werent designed for that. Biturbo wants to get a rc "muscle car".
(biturbo, tell me if i said anything wrong in here)
corwin99
01-29-2003, 02:42 PM
I always find it interesting how in public message boards like this, people will ask for help about something, like let say "Make my car go faster please" and people will chime in with stuff like u need to do this and that and the other thing, but none of it has to do with making the guys car go faster.. its like a "I know what you need, and its not what you want, and i know its better for you" kind of attitude. Who cares if Bitturbo can drive? He wants to know how to go fast... the polite thing to do is to give him feedback on how to obtain that rather than act like his father and give him advice as to why its wrong because u think that he should be doing something else altogether.
Sorry.. maybe i'm holding a little resentment against people for doing that to me in the past :)
LRSeriesIII
01-29-2003, 03:34 PM
I don't know if you picked up on SegaBowMan's comment about checking the timing of your motor, but I think that's worth looking into. Also, what kind of motor is it? Have you tried speed runs with the car with different, milder motors? I'm just thinking it is possible that the problem is in the drivetrain and not the motor, but it's hard to know without inspecting the car, so I figured if you've gotten better performance with a different motor then that would help narrow it down.
Don't feel bad about this at all. You're trying to go fast, and fast is cool.:cool: I mean, is there a purer pursuit? (Well, in my opinion going fast in the dirt, but that's just me...:)) Don't worry about people thinking you're a newbie or whatever, we were all newbies at one point. You seem to be very receptive to input, and that's the important thing.
Grant Tokumi
01-29-2003, 04:03 PM
Some calcs based on your 100 ft test, assuming constant top speed from the start to the finish.
100-ft in:
6.8 sec = 10 mph
2.7 sec = 25 mph
2.27 sec = 30 mph
1.95 sec = 35 mph
2.5 sec = 40 mph
2.22 sec = 45 mph
1.67 sec = 60 mph
1.25 sec = 80 mph
0.68 sec = 100 mph
Hopefully no mistakes, I did it kind of fast, but based on that, a difference of only .3 to .5 seconds can throw you off around 5 mph.
biturbo15
01-29-2003, 08:30 PM
Ya that is about what I got. I also used this site to check my answer. I got times of 2.2, 2.13, 2.16, 2.09. all pritty close. SO I think I am pritty accurate.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/calculator.asp
tells you mph and stuff, very useful. I started this thread because I have a trinity speed gem pro motor 9t double and an 8t limit esc. Now I put a lot into this and I am not going very fast in comparison to other drivers with 9t's. I am upgrading my gearing, I think that might have been one of the problems because my motor ran less hott and faster with 25/93 gearing than 22/93 so I think I might have just been far undergeared. I do plan to race some day soon but right now I am just runnin on my backstreets.
LRSeriesIII
01-29-2003, 08:57 PM
Originally posted by biturbo15
my motor ran less hott and faster with 25/93 gearing than 22/93 so I think I might have just been far undergeared.
That's kind of odd. If you're undergeared you definitely should not have your motor overheating. Under-geared causes the motor to spool up faster, so it actually runs at a higher rpm, causing less current draw and thus less heat. Also it means the motor doesn't have to generate as much torque when accelerating, again causing lower current draw. On the other hand results are results.:) Definitely keep working on it.
By the way, I just stumbled onto your other thread (need more speed, addicted I am) and saw you had already checked into the whole timing issue.
The whole thing with you getting less heat with a higher gearing makes me wonder, how are your bearing in your motor and how are your brushes and comm? I know you said the comm is fine, but I just figured I'd through it and the brishes in since I mentioned the bearings. What about other drivetrain friction? I know you've got low-friction belts, are you sure there's no binding or rubbing? I'd take a look through the drivetrain for signs of that sort of stuff (the rs4's drivetrain is pretty open so it shouldn't be too tough). Sorry if this has been already suggested or you've already done it, I just figured I should mention it while I'm thinking about it before chemistry fries my brain.:P
Good luck.
biturbo15
01-29-2003, 09:19 PM
I figured I would test my drive belts and tranny also. I took off the pinion gear and rolled my car. Its not hard to roll at all and if I push it It rolls a few feet. Is there any way to test to make sure there is no friction any where??
I dont have a voltameter so I am pritty much guessing on my timing issue, but I heard 20 degrees was good for a 9t, it goes up to 40 but I put it at 20 still.
My motor has capacitators installed on the inside and doesnt want to pull out. My 14t and stock motors just pull out. THis one doesnt. Any Tips on how to get it out?
LRSeriesIII
01-29-2003, 10:59 PM
Originally posted by biturbo15
Is there any way to test to make sure there is no friction any where??
I would look for things like marks where things might be rubbing. That at least would be a start. If you want you could start disconnecting each part of your drivetrain from the rest of the drivetrain and see if any particular bearing or belt or diff or whatever seems to be offering a lot of resistance relative to everything else.
On the timing, you could always try dropping it down a little and see how that works. Maybe say 15 degrees or so. It can't hurt. Also, what are you talking about with using a voltmeter to measure timing?
I hope I didn't send the wrong impression with the gearing that your car shouldn't have been faster (I don't think you got that impression, but I just wanted to make sure). It should have had a higher top end and less acceleration. You might want to also consider going farther with your gearing curve. See if maybe you're getting your motor into a better part of its power curve (I'm mostly guessing here about the power curve:)). Also if you have access to someone who knows what they're doing with motors (say a knowledgable person at a LHS or something) you might want to consider having them take a look at your motor, but I would save that until later as it would cost money.
What do you mean capacitors installed on the inside? Inside of the endbell somehow? And why do you want to take them off?
This is probably just the computer tech in me but part of me really wants to say try a different motor if you can. Maybe time it with your milder mod (after taking some time to get the gearing right) or if a friend has a motor you could borrow try it. That or put your motor in someone else's car and see how it does. The goal wouldn't be to get a direct comparison with the speeds you're getting now, but just to have another number to run by everyone here to see if that number is off too.
Also, this will probably sound stupid and you've probably already checked and someone has probably already said it but I'd feel bad if no one had and I didn't: are you sure your radio's endpoints and your esc are fully adjusted properly to get full throttle to your motor when you peg it? Just a thought.
biturbo15
01-29-2003, 11:27 PM
Ya that is wierd with the hole motor gearing thing. But I have heard of people really really undergearing their motors and that the rpm's get too high and heat it up. But my problem is that sure I was undergeared but not that far. I am just going to try 25/87 tomarrow and hope for the best.
I dont want to remove the capacitators I just want to be able to remove my armature. I cant. It wont come out. I dont pulll THAT hard just because I am afraid of breaking something. But it wont come out, so I cant check the bottom half of the mottor.
I heard that with a voltameter you plug the motor into it then with the endbell loosend you adjust the timing and it shows when your motor runs most efficently. I have never used one myself just heard about it the other day.
I set up my esc and stuff but I am not sure if my motor and esc are perfect. I set everything up right but the wierd thing is that it says that when you are at full throttle the red and green led's should be lit. They dont become lit. They do in reverse but not in forward. I try and set it up but it just stays the same I am gonna mess with it some more. That is interesting you said that. No one else has sujjested it and I cant wait to fix it.
LRSeriesIII
01-29-2003, 11:36 PM
I think you just may have found your problem.:) It sounds like you've set everything up right and calibrated the esc right and then it doesn't go to full throttle when you tell it to. What you could try is setting the throttle end point down a little when you calibrate the esc then bump it back up when run it, so the esc is being told to go higher than it ever was during calibration.
While I've never had problems like this on my R/C car, the esc's on the robot I worked on in high school (FIRST if you've ever heard about it, I ended up in charge of electronics my senior year, great stuff) would occassionally get thrown sort of out of calibration. We wouldn't quite get full throttle out of them for no real reason. So we'd just recalibrate and it'd be fine.
biturbo15
01-29-2003, 11:53 PM
great I am charging a pack to fix it as we speak. It is an intellispeed 8t pro reverse esc. I am gonna try and reset it completely than set it up.
biturbo15
01-30-2003, 12:18 AM
quick questoin. should I set up my esc with the pinion on the motor or off?
LRSeriesIII
01-30-2003, 12:21 AM
When you're setting it up it shouldn't be connected to the motor (as far as I remember, though it's been a while), so I don't think the pinion should affect it. If it is connected while calibrating, I would take off the pinion, just to be sure. It should really have an effect as far as I can tell, but it can't hurt. Well, gotta do hw and get to sleep (ah, the life of a college student :)). Hope it all works out for you, and keep us updated!
biturbo15
01-30-2003, 12:57 AM
I set up my esc and I cant wait to try it tomarrow. I really hope this is what was wrong.
hawk_196
01-30-2003, 05:28 PM
Hey,
Do you know anybody at all with a Dyno? You could also try your LHS. If you get your motor dyno'd, that'll help us a whole lot.
I'll see if I can dig up a speed chart for you (general ballpark measure of what rpm's you should be hitting with that cryptonite).
peace
biturbo15
01-30-2003, 06:14 PM
cool thanx. I dont know any one with a dyno though.. Should I just ask around and see what other people got when they dyno'd their speed gem 9t's? Or is every motor different?
LRSeriesIII
01-30-2003, 06:20 PM
There shouldn't be any problems just gettin numbers from someone else. Sure, your motor might be putting out somewhat different numbers, but without doing some measurements on your drive train you'll be ballparking any speed estimations anyways.
InspGadgt
01-30-2003, 07:53 PM
LR good call on the ESC. No one had mentioned that. But now that you do it brings to mind another problem...I'm wondering if he has the motor wired in reverse and the throttle reverse switch on his transmitter thrown. That would cause the symptoms he describes....kinda slow and overheating. I've seen that done a couple of times accidentally. Bit...just to make sure is your white wire going to the red one on your motor which is attached to the positive side of the endbell? Likewise with the blue wire attached to the black going to the negative side of the endbell. What makes me think it might be backwards is because you are getting a green light in reverse but not foward. Many ESCs have a different indicator in reverse then foward...usually the green light is full foward. So if it's all setup backwards then when you pull the throttle your ESC is actually in reverse but because you have the motor wired backwards it goes foward.
As for the undergearing causing overheating....we've noticed that on the F201's as well. With the stock gearing around 8:1 ish the Mabuchi Sport Tuned motor runs hotter then with the high speed gear set geared around 5.8:1
biturbo15
01-30-2003, 08:39 PM
ok half of that is true... Wow I didnt think that would make a difference... ok here is how I am set up. My radio has its reverse switch on.. I have blue to black and white to red. But I dont know about the posotives and negatives on the motor. HOw do I tell which side is posotive and which is negative.. (note I soldered these my self so red does not necessarily mean posotive.)
LRSeriesIII
01-30-2003, 08:41 PM
Very nice point InspGadgt. That really does sound like a likely cause, especially with the overheating. I don't think he said the green light was coming on when he was hitting reverse though, just that a light was coming on in reverse.
That part with the gearing and overheating is pretty interesting. Do you have any idea why it does that, or just one of the great mysteries of the universe?:P
biturbo15
01-30-2003, 08:43 PM
OOOH!!! the black one is posotive.... so I have the blue to a posotive black and the white to a negative black.. Is that right?
it says that the blue one from the esc is negative and that the white one is posotive.
I have them reversed!!!!! DAMN! I have the black (which is posotive) connected to the blue one (which is negative) and the white one (which is posotive) connected to the red one (which is negative)!!!!!!!! I am gonna switch them right now!!
LRSeriesIII
01-30-2003, 08:44 PM
Originally posted by biturbo15
I have blue to black and white to red. But I dont know about the posotives and negatives on the motor. HOw do I tell which side is posotive and which is negative.. (note I soldered these my self so red does not necessarily mean posotive.) Blue what to black what and white what to red what? For figuring out the polarity on the motor, I have a picture of a Speed Gems 2 and it has a "+" on the endbell up near the bearing. That is the positive side. Also, is it possible that the timing is retarded instead of advanced (turned the wrong way)?
LRSeriesIII
01-30-2003, 08:49 PM
Originally posted by biturbo15
OOOH!!! the black one is posotive.... so I have the blue to a posotive black and the white to a negative black.. Is that right?
it says that the blue one from the esc is negative and that the white one is posotive.
I have them reversed!!!!! DAMN! I have the black (which is posotive) connected to the blue one (which is negative) and the white one (which is posotive) connected to the red one (which is negative)!!!!!!!! I am gonna switch them right now!!
Blue is negative. Red is positive.
edit: Black is negative too.
biturbo15
01-30-2003, 10:00 PM
right now I have
blue (negative - esc) connected to my black (posotive - motor).
white (posotive - esc) connected to red (negative - motor)
I know black is normally negative but I just soldered it wierd. I do my own stuff and wasnt thinking.
I will have blue connected to red and white connected to black. It should work out. I feel like a total idiot. If this does help thank you so much!!!!!
biturbo15
01-30-2003, 11:27 PM
not the answer im looking for...
(hey jordan):D
TrickSpeed
01-31-2003, 01:01 AM
Dont mean to be rude, but did you really have your motor hooked up backwards, and your esc too. So that would mean that you would be driving in reverse instead of forward, probably why you have such low speed. Motor and esc backwards... you just made my day, thanks for the chuckle :)
rx78gp03s
01-31-2003, 01:06 AM
try reversing the magnets inside ur motor. u kno, by switching the magnets position, like a was in 1, and be was in 2. but now a is in 2, and b is in 1.
thats the only way i find effective to make ur duratraxx esc work correctly. Duratraxx liketo have their own way of makin escs.
biturbo15
01-31-2003, 10:16 AM
I would but I have never tried any thing like that. I have no idea how to do that. I cant even get the endbell out of my 9t it seems to be stuck in... It has capacitators on the inside is that why it is stuck in? this is so frusturating why cant duratrax just make there esc's the normal way>
LRSeriesIII
02-01-2003, 12:13 PM
I'm confused, so did reversing the wires solve your problem? Also, what would the way Duratrax makes their esc's have to do with getting the endbell off of your motor?(you have a speed gems pro, right?)
biturbo15
02-01-2003, 02:26 PM
I switched the motor wires a while back and it restricted the amout of power going to my motor and made my top speed slower. So I put my whires back posotive to posotive and negative to negative then i turning my timing 180 degrees. It fixed it. I dont know why my armature wont come out though..
biturbo15
02-03-2003, 12:15 AM
I finally got the specs on my 9t motor. the guy said it dyno'd at 50,000 plus rpms. Is that good for a 9t motor? Why am I still so slow.
Is there a way that I can test to see if anything on my drivetrain is rubbing?
How far should my car roll when I push it lightly?
I am 5ml off the ground in front and 8ml off the ground in back is that too high?
I am now running 25/87 and I am going to run it tomarrow and see how hot it gets.
Lapster
02-03-2003, 02:33 PM
I have looked at this post for 20 minutes and cant figure out what is wrong. My XXX-S with a p2k2 goes 100 feet in 1.96 seconds. Try to loosen you belt. Also check your radio. Look at all of the throttle settings. If those fail put 15 cells on. Plus, speed isnt all that matters, there are turns when you race.
rcnerd
02-03-2003, 03:20 PM
You need to eliminate possibilities...
Test w/ voltemeter volts at motor at full throttle, w/ car in the air.
Hook up batt direct to motor should be close to same.
If not, problem is esc, or setup.
Duratrax escs are good and are basically the same as the rest as far as setup goes.
Do not remove the magnets.
solder a red or white wire to the + teminal
solder a black or blue wire to the - terminal
send throttle epa to max
RE-READ ESC INSTRUCTIONS FULLY!!!
Reset (calibrate) esc.
InspGadgt
02-03-2003, 04:57 PM
The Blue wire on your ESC should connect to the negative side of your can with the endbell on properly. The White wire to the postive side. Once you do this you'll need to switch your throttle reverse switch so everything's going the right way and then re-setup the ESC as per the instructions.
biturbo15
02-03-2003, 07:52 PM
I am totally sure that I am now wired correctly. My car goes forward when I tell it to and everything works fine. People keep saying calibrate your esc? I just set it up. I went through all of the instructions carefully and it worked out. I am going to do it again right now just to make srue though.
I dont have a voltameter... kind of a downer. Maybe someone at my track will have one. But I dont want to race until I am confadent in my car and right now I am not.
The first thing I am going to do though is get some new batteries. These ones suck!! totally worn out and crappy. next week I get paid and I am getitng new batts/.
rx78gp03s
02-04-2003, 03:24 PM
well i experienced a small problem wiht my motor this weekend and it wasn't hauling ass as it normally does. Change the springs in ur motor. get a stronger spring, and u mite see some changes. it worked for me.
LRSeriesIII
02-04-2003, 09:23 PM
On the esc, are the lights going on indicating full throttle going on properly? If so, you're fine.
On the wiring, definitely swap your wires around. Blue/black is negative, it's just a convention. I think you'll save yourself some stress if you do so, maybe not now, but later. I would also move your endbell back (you said you rotated it 180 degrees), just to keep everything straight. If endbell position is your problem, you may have retarded the timing instead of advancing it (advancing the timing is rotating counter clockwise as your looking down at the endbell). If your timing is retarded, that'll give you problems.
On all of that stuff, the whole idea is to keep the car as straight forward as possible. If you try a trick and set something the way it isn't normally set and it doesn't help, set it back. Otherwise you might run in to problems down the road.
biturbo15
02-05-2003, 12:28 AM
ok no my motor and esc are perfectly set up. I get the green light that means it is set up correctly and the red light at full speed. THat means I am hooked up right. My timing is also good.
LRSeriesIII
02-05-2003, 08:55 AM
And it is still slow?
biturbo15
02-05-2003, 07:55 PM
I dont know I have driven it since and it feels faster but I havent timed it. It might just be in my head. I also removed some of the transmition rubbing. I will run it and tell you the time.