This can't be an EK(!)......or can it?

[RC Jack]

Well, it started out as an EK, but, it doesn't look like it's gonna be one for long!!

[Tim71]

That appears to be one sweet project. What engine will you run?

Tim

[RC Jack]

Tho, not set in concrete, I'm planning on runnng a 70, tho, I do have my eye on a .91 4-stroke and a couple of other enignes. As of now, it does have a 2 speed in it, tho, depending on the engine setup used, I may modify the 2 speed to 3 speeds. It's still up in the air right now.

[G-RIDE]

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

[rcjughead]

im with him

[RC Jack]

Now, it's starting to look like something!

[ben peters]

thats looks like it is going to be one sweeeeeeeeet monster truck

[RC Jack]

Thanks, Ben. I know I'm having fun designing & making it. I wasn't sure if I biting off more than I could chew, as this is my first project with my milling machine & lathe.

Maybe, I'll step up to 1/4 scale after this.

[BurnTheLies]

are there any update pictures? i'm pretty much sucked into this, it looks awesome.

[RC Jack]

BurnTheLies, I won't have any update pix til later on in the week, as I'm doing the front end now. I'm just waiting for some spherical bearings for the front A-arms to locate the knuckles. When I get done with this, to a point, anyhow, I'll start on the alloy wheels. I already have 1 made, but, no center; haven't made up my mind on the design. Glad you like it!

[ViciousKnives]

wow, cool ride. REALLY awesome. i admire you guys who do these custom project things. it's just so cool. i wish i had the time and the know how to do this stuff, but mainly just the time. being in college and majoring in biochemistry doesn't leave me much time to do a custom made project, let alone play with my rc cars. waiting till may, when i get out for my summer break, before i buy a 1/8 scale monster truck. going to need a full weeks worth of time at least to break it in.

but aside from that. keep us posted on this. everyone loves seeing custom made projects. ;) :D

[rhcsavage21]

sweet project. i want to do something similar but using twin .70 or .90

[RC Jack]

rhcsavage21, I was thinking about using twin 70's, then I came to my senses.:D Just one of these engines has some serious torque, but TWO? The drivetrain would have to be made out of titanium alloy.
I am considering a 90 or a 1.2 4-stroke, not sure on that, tho. It's difficult to fathom more torque than the 70 puts out, especially, if you've ever seen an EK run, they're like rocket sleds with 4-wheel drive.


ViciousKnives, thanks! I do this in my spare time and sometimes, I have more than I would like, :D . But, that's retirement, it's either this or fishing, which is just an excuse to drink beer.:D

Biochemistry? you wouldn't be able to make me a clone, would you? I know just the person: Angelina Joli!!!!

[ViciousKnives]

i could, but she'd age twice as fast and have a good number of genetic defects and probably wouldn't live as long, a la Dolly the sheep... lol :p :D

cloning is really just barely in its infancy, now if stupid dumbass politicians would stop making laws about stuff they've never even studied or seen in their lives, let alone have the slightest clue of what it's about, maybe this science could progress and go somewhere.:mad: :mad: :mad:

[rhcsavage21]

rc jack i know that i would probuble rip my hole car apart but i know if you get the desighn rite it will work plus with so much tork i could put mabey a 30t clutch bell and i would be doing like doing 80-90mph plus it would be cool to be racing with a monster like that.

[RC Jack]

rhcsavage21, even with a 30t clutchbell, and IF it were possible to get it up to 80-90, at that speed, what would you do??? You can only go straight; you try to turn at that speed and you'll need a shovel to pick up the pieces, at least with a monster truck. As far as I'm concerned, any speed more than 50 or so in a monster truck is a waste. My truck isn't being built for speed, it's being built for enjoyment. Most everyone who builds a monster truck is in a rut to see how fast it can go and most forget that it has 4 wheel drive and can do more than wheelies, which are great for show, then get sick of monster trucks & end up selling it/them.

I'm trying to get my LHS to start a monster truck challenge, along the lines of stadium monster trucks, short track, handling, accelleration, mud pits, what-have-you, where top speed is useless and enjoyment to top drawer.

ViciousKnives, Angelina Joli with genetic defects, cloned or otherwise??? C'mon, get real.
:D :D ....and it would be the best 5-6 years....... :D ;) :cool: :D

[rhcsavage21]

yea but i don't reely care about speed as long as i can beat my cosin ( he has a mp-5) plus i want it for injoy ment too but also i love to make things with my hands and other things like that.
but know that i think about it , it would be a hole lot of tork. but one thing i want to go for is a twin monster truck. it is not going to be my hole design, like i will have to make the bulk heads and the chassie. it will have ultimate engine t-maxx suspension, but know that i have looked at ofna's website i would love to put two of the .26 outlaws!!!!:D :D :D

thats about 5.4 hp a 250 cc tank, ripple pipesand will make this truck worth the construction!!!

[BurnTheLies]

i think it's very interesting how the suspension is set up. so, you have two shocks supporting the 4 link itself on the front and back, then two more per wheel? this is very neat. one .70/.90 will provide enough torque and speed for this, i'm sure of it. by the looks of things, this truck will be more about tackling obstacles than speed. if you want crazy speed, moster trucks aren't for you.

[Figit090]

that's a tight truck........i wish i could do that.......your lucky to have the knowhow and acces to nessasary materials and tools.........

[RC Jack]

i would love to put two of the .26 outlaws!!!!
rhcsavage21, I think that's already been done in a Titan, I think it was. It looked very factory.

BurnTheLies, this truck is mostly for short tracks, along the lines where the likes of Bigfoot, Bearfoot, Gravedigger run, in collusiums, where top speed isn't or can't be used, but finese of handling, low level, short jumps, in one-on-one duels.

You're right about wanting crazy speed, it's NOT for monster trucks!! Monster trucks scream out for their own type of racing, collusium-type racing, where the 4-wheel drive & suspension can actually get a good workout. The way most suspensions on monster trucks are setup today are to absorb impact from incredibly high jumps, which, on the other side of the coin, handling suffers. There is no happy medium between setting up a suspension, you either set it up for high jumps or for handling, can't have both.
This suspension is setup this way for extended wheel travel and some articulation, tho, nothing like the articulating suspensions on these rock climbers, that can almost twist itself into a pretzel. As it stands now, all of the out-drives are titanium alloy; if the axles or CV's break, Ill make those out of titanium, as well.

Right now, I'm at a construction standstill, waiting on bearings from Germany.

Figit090, thanks, glad you like it. I'll try to get some pix later this week.

[rhcsavage21]

well actualy thier we .25 and plus the .26 outlaws are not even out yet. and they would only have 4.3hp togather the outlaws are 5.4hp thats a big differnce. plus the .26 will produce more tork than the .25

[RC Jack]

rhcsavage21, thanks for clarifying that. I only got a brief look at that truck a while back, so, I wasn't sure, I just knew that it wasn't powered by 21's. Then I guess you'll be the first to build it!:cool:

[rhcsavage21]

yea in the next 10 years (14 Years old turning 15 in july)

[RC Jack]

'nother pic. Haven't decided just how the cage will be mounted, but, you get the idea

[RC Jack]

.......and this one.......

[BurnTheLies]

nice, nice nice and nice.

[2 F45T 4 U]

WOW ur putting an 11+cc engine in it but its like putting a V8 in a grandfather clock isnt it (LOL:D).Isnt that type of chassis normally used for roch krawlin where speeds are agonisingly slow (TXT1 = 8mph!) and its all about articulation. Ive even thought about putting a tineee little engine in my maxx to get more realistice speeds but still get another power to get wheelspins under slight accelration and cope with slopes (just me mutterin on:D ) Anywho ive got a second generation maxx and it looks about as wide as wat ur building but urs is like taller than it is wider and i still aint masterd the art of cornering whilst heading in the forwards (or reverse for that matter) direction, Ziiimmmmmm.........eeeech.......Plonk..... Doh!........ shuffle shuffle shuffle.....Ziiimmmmmm!!!! Is the normal procedure. and u gonna ave problems wit that and wat r u usin it for, raceing, rok krawlin?

[2 F45T 4 U]

Ohhh yeh... Keep Up The GOOOOOD Werkk :D

[TamiyaRules]

That I one sweet A$$ Truck you are building. I wish i could afford to build something that nice. If I had a truck like that I would love driving it but also hate driving it. Wouldn't want to damage the chassis. Keep up the good work.

TR

[RC Jack]

2 F45T 4 U

I'm trying to get my LHS to start a monster truck challenge, along the lines that monster trucks run in collusiums, one-on-one, short track, handling, accelleration, mud pits, minor low speed jumps, wheelies, what-have-you, where top speed is useless and enjoyment to top drawer. Exhibition racing comes to mind. And of course, a show truck.

Tho, the suspension does have some articulation, it's nowhere near the articulation that rock-crawlers have, the design doesn't permit it. The anti-sway bars limits the suspension movement. Just on a note of how elaborate the suspension is, the upper & lower ball joint bearings on the front control arms are 4mm spherical ball bearings from Germany. It's the only way I could get it to work without using plastic pieces. Eventually, I'll change over to 4-wheel steering and do the same to the rears.

When was the last time you saw a 4-link AND independant suspension on anything RC? From the way it's setup, this truck would not be a good performer on pavement, unless it's only in a straight line and what enjoyment is that, unless it's sand dragging.

Tamiyarules,

I just may keep it in a glass case!;) One thing's for certain, I'm not looking to beat it, punish it or wreck it, just enjoy it.

[2 F45T 4 U]

Rc Jack
Hope i didnt insult you or dent yor confinfidents just i couldnt see any category it could be in. Keep up the good werks take lots of pics and Vids and show um us:D

[RC Jack]

2 F45T 4 U, don't be silly, you didn't insult me(!!!) or dent my confidence!! I'da asked the same thing, after all, a truck like this isn't for racing buggies and such on large fast tracks.
I'm 55 years old and whether it fits into any category, I just enjoy building 'em.....and decide later what category, if any, they belong.

It'll be a while before my truck is done, so, vids.......I don't have a vid cam, but, my sister-in-law does and she won't let me use it 'cuz I told her I could make it work better. (Tim Taylor would be proud!):D

[RC Jack]

Well, the right front corner is hung & secure, only in need of finishing. If I have time 2moro, I'll start on the left corner.

[Maxxcrazy]

sorry to discurage you but i have to do it...

that is gonna handle like crap. you NEED to lock the a arms in place or else everything will flop around. I have build one of these hybrids before i i KNOW what im saying. ill post a pic of mine later

[RC Jack]

This is the engine!! Been doin' a little investigating on 4-strokes and so far, I like what I've heard about this one. Only thing I haven't heard yet is the price!

[RC Jack]

How do you figure it will "flop around"?
Maybe you should upload a pix or 2 of yours.

[megaman]

with independant and solid axle type suspension, when it goes down, the center (solid axle part) is going to scrape the ground. for example, take the center shock off and see what the center does, itll drop down and scrape. plus, it wont do any good to have all of them attached to the chassis, you should have the arms atached to the middle, then the middle to the chassis. the arms, and center wont all go at the same time, cause of the independant suspension portion. so the arms will go up, but the center will go down, then go up as it hits the ground.

im just kind of b'sing a bunch of thoughts together, thats why this doesnt make sence:p

[TraxMaxST]

The differential portion of the drivetrain will have just as much as chance of scraping as it would on a "regular" independent suspension set up. Even if it did scrape, you can always put fuel tubing "bump stops" on the shock shafts to stop that. Just because the differental case is bolted onto a four link, that doesn't change the suspension relationship of the differental case and the a-arms. It would be just like on a T-Maxx or any other truck.

The idea if mounting the shocks to the diff case is interesting though. If they could be mounted there instead of the chassis, then what could be done is have the a-arm shocks to be very stiff. That way it would slightly mimick a solid axle four link set up, but if you caught some big air, and the 4 link shocks bottomed out, the a-arm shocks would soak up the remainder of the landing. I would imagine this would create an enormous amount of stress on the diff case though, so perhaps some type of floating mount on the chassis would be better. A cool project, for sure, but an engineering nightmare! LOL!

The trick (IMO...just speculation) as it's set up will be setting up the shocks with correct oil weight and spring rate to get it all working together in conjunction, rather than one shock set "overpowering" the other.

It's neat to discuss this stuff and speculate at the results. I hope RC Jack keeps us updated on the progress and has some action shots for us this summer. :D

[repete]

RC Jack..YZ motors are pretty much the most expensive 4-strokes in the plane world..they run amazingly well..but a Saito is just as good for way less

[Maxxcrazy]

http://www.******.net/media/maxxanuat.jpg

[Maxxcrazy]

also i just noticed this. you need to triangulate either the upper or lower links to provent the axle from moving side to side. all 4 links need this.

if you want better articulation, triangulate the upper links at the axle. if you want good handling, triangulate the lower links at the chassis

[RC Jack]

Well, to say that this suspension system isn't going to be a handful, initially, would be an understatement! I know, I'm going to be experimenting with various oil weights, spring rates and center shock placement. I thought of mounting the outboard shocks to the 3rd member, but, decided against it, mainly due to the rod ends that are available. Most rod ends for RC are around $3 or $4 for a set of...however many and offer no strength, outside of servo usage. On the other end of the spectrum, are the ones used by NASA and people in robotics, high quality steel rod ends at $31 EACH. Nothing in between! 3, 4, & 5mm versions are very hard to find, as are their SAE counterparts and their pricing is largely due to their size. Who sez size doesn't matter?

The ones I'm using are made from igubal, a super high strength plastic. This plastic is so strong that I screwed a 3mm grade 12.9 capscrew into one and snapped the screw!! If I remember right, they are about $3-$4 each, times 30. That adds up!! Times $31.........staggers the mind! Someone pass the Advil!

TraxMaxST, yer right!! It is an engineering nightmare! But, it's more of a challenge than anything else. Besides, I'm not looking to get "big air". But, to ensure minimum damage from, ahem, more air than I would like, I've incorporated "break-away" points...........just in case.

repete, I think I have to scrap that YS engine as it's no longer made and the ones that replace are low RPM, less than 10 grand. I looked at Saito engines, but, I couldn't find any specs on them, like RPM range. I did, however, like the prices. Eventually, I'll find the specs that I need. I'm looking for 12,000 RPM, minimum.

megaman, there's a certain amount of sense in what you said, but, from "lab-testing", the suspension will work as I predict, tho, initially, will have it's flaws.

I'm slowly trying to talk my LHS into a monster truck "meet", along the lines that full-sized monster trucks run in collusiums, very short track, small & short jumps, super sharp curves, ie, obstacles that would allow the driver to use the 4wheel drive to get into & out of situations, like mud pits, etc., all or most at low speed, but, with accelleration.

Most monster trucks run on tracks designed either for BMX, buggies or stadium racers and these types of tracks are not the forte' for monster trucks. That would be like putting Bigfoot, Bearfoot or the like, on a Baja track or Daytona. They just don't belong there! They have their own distinctive strengths.

Maxxcrazy, that's a nice lookin' truck! But, I would say your's is mainly built for rock-crawling or climbing. I'm not looking for that kind of articulation. Besides, I don't think that rock-crawling would suit a 70 or 90 size engine!:cool:

I'm way ahead of ya on triangulation!
:D One on pic, the rear is triangulated on the uppers, but, will have to be changed to the lowers. When I first placed the engine between the rails, I centered it and worked off that. The reason it has to be changed is for 2 reasons: 1. because the carb slide valve intefers with the frame rail, so, the engine had to be offset and 2, as you pointed out, handling. At this point, I'm undecided about placement of the front triangulation, but, I'm favoring the lowers, largely due to this truck will have a high cg. But, it's all experimental, "it's all good", and it's all fun!


if you want better articulation, triangulate the upper links at the axle. if you want good handling, triangulate the lower links at the chassis

I wasn't sure about the different characteristics of the triangulation placement, 'til you mentioned it. Thanks!

I've only run into 1 problem so far on the front end. And I hate to say this, (boy, do I hate to say thi$), but, it'$ tho$e $39 bearing$! The angle of missallignment is only 13 degrees, which limits suspension movement at the ball joint. I need at least 18-20 degrees. The replacements that I have coming have up to 37 degrees and that's more than enough.


FOR SALE: 4 SPHERICAL BEARINGS, made in Germany :D :D :D :D

I'll find a use for them!!!!!

It's nice to know there are other "nut-cases" out here, besides myself, that do projects like this! :cool:

[Maxxcrazy]

Heavy duty Rod ends (http://www.rc4wd.com/shop/go.cgi?&shop=city&cart=70795348x30320&session=3e52798c6081e269&L=eng&P=4x4-R002)

[RC Jack]

Maxx, I saw those a while back, but, metal balls in a plastic web......eventually, they'd get loose, maybe even break.

www.igus.com

[RC Jack]

A couple of more days, (I putz around a lot), and it'll be on all 4's.

[RC Jack]

Possible fuel tank placement.

Still have to make new knuckles. But, first, I need to see how the steering will be routed, as the steering arms may have to be higher and/or longer, might have to route steering to the front.

[Figit090]

woah dude....if you hit a good sized jump your going to bust that tank wide open!

[RC Jack]

I have no intention of hitting jumps of that magnatude! It's not being built for jumps and as everyone knows, will wreck a truck quickly! Besides, you don't need 4WD for jumping.

[TraxMaxST]

LOL...man, how many times are you going to have to state the truck isn't made for big air?

Are you planning on setting up the steering servo on the axle, like the TXT-1 or X-Factor, or are you going to try to put it on the chassis like the Mad Force?

[RC Jack]

TraxMaxST, (thought that screen-name looked familiar), the steering servo will be mounted to the frame. I need to make the upper shock mounts before I can start on the steering. Originally, I planned on routing the steering to the rear of the gearcase, but, I don't think that's gonna happen due to the disc brake placement. The only other place is to the front, which exposes it. Oh, well, this ain't the first truck to have it this way and won't be the last.

[ben peters]

wow man that thing is fricken sweeet

[RC Jack]

Thanks, Ben! If you think it looks sweet like that, I put the rollcage for a trial fit to make sure it clears the shock mounts and to center it for mounting. That being said, I just had to mount a body to it to see how far off the wheelbase is from the body.

[RC Jack]

And from the side.






But it's a Ford.:mad:


A DODGE body will be used in the near future!!:cool: :D

[ben peters]

umm do u plan on using those tires cause there different styles anyway i wish i had the spare time and cash to do somtin as great as that

[rappymaxx]

GREAT WORK DUDE !

can you post a complete list of Parts and $$ if that is not a hastle for you . Man I tell you .. NOW THAT IS THE TRUCK I HAVE SEEN AFTER A LONG TIME . PLease post above stuff .

Thanks a Bunch or you can send it to me at rappymaxx@yahoo.com . thanks again

[pistole]

I have said this before , and I'll say it again .......

RC JACK , I bow down at your feet and say "MASTER" when I see your work ....

Glad to see your truck is going well.

Bye.

[RC Jack]

C'mon Pistole, don't do that!:D I'm not a master of anything, I'm just good at what I do, whether it's this, billiards, auto repair or whatever I may do, I just desire to do it better! I take a lot of pride in my undertakings...or why bother? But, the sentiment is understood! Thank you for the compliment!

BTW, don't sand down the shock ball ends, just run a file over the slot a couple of times. You won't even notice it, nor will the strength of the A-arm be reduced!



Rappymaxx, I estimate, the "store-bought" parts at around $1,000, maybe more. And I'm not done! I looove spending money!:D :D
Sorry it took so long to respond; this board has been up & down the past few days.

[DCLXVI]

Hey RCJack, if you want a body that fits the wheel base better check out the 1/8 Grave Digger from Parma PSE...that thing is sweet, my cousin bought one for his USA-1 NC and the body has longer wheelbase than the NC... (it's not painted yet...)...


/DCLXVI

[RC Jack]

Thanks, DCLXVI, (or should I say 666:D ).
The Grave digger looks good, but, being a MoPar man for as long as I can remember, I'm going with the HPI DODGE RAM.

[GTX]

Wow, dunno how I missed this thread, but I'm here now...

How much did you pay for your lathe/mill?

[GTX]

Do you plan on making wheels for it? I think that would be pretty sweet. How about an all aluminum body?!? J/k...

[maxxbreaker]

Originally posted by GTX
How about an all aluminum body?!? J/k...


that would be sweet! im serious! maybe they dont cuz itll be too heavy. how bout aluminum foil? lol


RC-Jack, i was about to make that my screen name cuz my names jack but you took it away! lol! YOU ARE GOD OF RC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[RC Jack]

Yeah, I'm making wheels, too, 2 piece. Aluminum body? I'll mill one.....right after I mill an exact replica of Angelina Joli!:D

"RC Jack". Has nothing to do with RC! The "RC" are my initials and Jack is what most everyone calls me, even tho, my name is Robert. I don't know about the "God of RC"!! Tho, I understand the sentiment, thank you.

[RC Jack]

GTX, your email isn't working.

[vsnakebytev]

That is amazing!!!

Hey RC Jack.... I want to get into machining and making stuff like that for a living after I get out of the ARMY, I want to know what it takes to get started in something like that... well to atleast get the machinery, and to learn to use it.

Please e-mail me dives@nycap.rr.com

[wanabedriver]

first off, DAMN THAT TRUCK IS SWEET!! second, im kinda confused, with the title being "This can't be an EK(!)......or can it?". Did you base this thing on it, because i see practicly NOTHING from the EK. Man, if i had all that time and resources. I would begin a busness just making those killer machines. Keep up the great work!

[DCLXVI]

All I can spot are the shocks, the front tires and rims...

Mabey RC Jack are just crazy enough to put the .70 engine on there... :D That would be sweet... A crawler with a high-torque engine... :cool:

/DCLXVI

[MrCrash]

That ain't crazy at all.He needs a high-torque powerhouse 4 stroke.There's no replacement for displacement.I have another saying that involves the 2 stroke versus 4 stroke battle in quads,but it is a little "inappropriate".

[RC Jack]

A 70 is going in for now, then, I'll be putting a 90 in it as soon as it becomes available from TTR!!! I'd like to go with a 4-stroke, a 91-1.2, but, then there is the problem of starting it. Can't use a starter box, can't use a cordless drill, ala EK, can't use a recoil! I've been giving some thought to using an onboard starter, something on the order of the T-Maxx and the Kyosho Dodge, but, the electric motor would have to strong enough. I'll keep that on the back burner for now. Right now, that's a luxury.

wanabedriver, thanks for the compliment! It's not really based on the EK and the only parts that are EK are the differential gears and the disc brake and of course, the engine. The outdrives are titanium, CV's & 2psd trans are OFNA, as are 8 of the 12 shocks. The other 4 being Kyosho Burns.

To begin a business building/machining trucks of this nature would be fine, it's finding customers that would have the shkudas to pay for it! This truck would be considered a luxury, much like the Conley V8. We've all been to that website and drooled over that engine, until we saw the price......well, we are still drooling, myself included!

The last thing that this truck is gonna be is a crawler, not with a 70 or 90!! It doesn't have that kind of articulation. This truck will be a runner! How good of a runner? ??????

[DCLXVI]

Since he already has thr ringed 2-bang .70 heli engine from the EK-4 the car is "based" around I would think RC Jack would use it...


/DCLXVI

*EDIT - Forgot the sig (manual)

[DCLXVI]

Hmmm...I sould atleast have noticed RC Jack before I edited... :(

/DCLXVI

[vsnakebytev]

R/C Jack, You could use an O.S. 91... most commonly used in Ducted Fan Jets.... They use a High Torq airplane starter with a lubricated starting probe... I would look into those along with making an attachment to go on the front of the gears for the probe to go into to start the beast. another possible engine for you to look into is a K&B 100. Good Luck on finding something to work!

[repete]

Originally posted by vsnakebytev
R/C Jack, You could use an O.S. 91... most commonly used in Ducted Fan Jets.... They use a High Torq airplane starter with a lubricated starting probe... I would look into those along with making an attachment to go on the front of the gears for the probe to go into to start the beast. another possible engine for you to look into is a K&B 100. Good Luck on finding something to work!

One main problem with ducted fan engines is the amount of fuel they drink...i had an f14 w/ a .91 rossi ducted fan..lets just say to get a 10 min flight..i had enough fuel to run a car for about an hour or maybe more...and they lack the torque for monstertrucks...just use the .70 long stroke motor

[RC Jack]

You're right, Repete! OS told me the same thing, the ducted fan engines have no torque for monster trucks.

Sounds like the ducted fan engines don't belong in the Mobil Economy Run!

vsnakebytev, I'm going to stay with the 70 until the TTR 90 becomes available, which will be this summer.

[RC Jack]

Seems that, even tho I'm putting a DODGE RAM body on this, seems some folks from Chrysler wanna get in my case over the cough, cough, Ford body, cough, cough.
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[rhcsavage21]

lol to that man.:D :D

[Maxxcrazy]

Hey, ben peters brings up a very good point. even though the tires are different sizes, it will still work. heres why: i believe the mugen MBX4 XR started this with a front diff that had a different ratio than the rear. The front was over drive and helped it slide through turns better. this was ment to be used on dirt tracks ONLY. the monster truck racing guys also followed this by putting jugg wheels(bigger) in teh front and putting clod (smaller) in the rear. This had teh same effect. REMEMBER- only run it on dirt. on pavement, you'll have a ton of problems.

Nice truck anyway. I need to do soemthing really custom soon. Ive been working on my xx4 right now. the last custom thing ive done is i made a front brush guard for my tamiya pajero a few days ago. its been too long :(

[RC Jack]

The only reason there are different size tires front & rear is to get it up on all 4's. The other 2 IMEX tires have no rims in them, yet, as they're being made.

That theory of running different size tires works fine for short straight runs, as you said, in dirt, NOT on pavement. Mud runners have 'em setup that way. The fronts spin first, not only due to the ratio, but, tire size, as well. It's meant to keep the front from lifting too much when skimming mud.

To do this even on dirt, over a period of time, eventually, something would have to give.

[wilddaggerkid03]

do you have more pix? what kind of imex tires are you using? i have a pair of claw dawgs they have tons of grip

[wanabedriver]

lol :D.

[wanabedriver]

sorry, my computer took me to the pic first. never knew there were other posts.
wait a sec, i reconize some words... hmm... overdrive.... underdrive.... wait! wasnt that in RCCA before? y know, it was a review for the XXXS, i think... i forget which one it was though... ANYWAY, they were talking about overdrive/underdrive for some touring car. so it can be run on pavement? or only with belt drives?

[SilverFox]

I saw your problem to find a proper engine for that very cool beast and I know one engine that can accomodate you well, except for the RPM.

RCV Engines!!
http://www.rcvengines.com/

LOTS of torque, available in 3 sizes (there is a 4th size but it's not the same design, it does not have the starting socket), 4 stroke, rotary valves instead of poppet valves (less maintenance, no floating valve), and one more thing... they comes with a starting socket like the one on the TTR .70, so you can start it with a drill.

Like I said they don't have a high RPM, because they have a 2:1 internal ratio, but they have double the torque. So you can configure your transmission accordingly.

Anyway you're not planning on jumping or going fast (I have read the previous posts... :D ). For a show stopper truck, I think it is the engine you need. And it's not as expensive as the YS, in fact the price is more like a Saito or OS standard 4 stroke.

Changing of subject... I'm planning to buy a lathe/mill soon, I'm looking between 2 models right now, Smithy and Shopmaster. Both 3-in-1 have good features. Can you tell me what equipment you are using and why you like it? And if you have to buy a new lathe/mill what you would take and why?

Thanks a lot, and keep up the good works!!! :D

[RC Jack]

I saw those engines before and I liked them...'til I saw the RPM's, only 6,000, barely enough to move the truck. I'd need at least a 5-speed trans for any kind of performance. And while I'm not looking to get this thing to go ballistic, I do want a reasonable top end, somewhere in the neighborhood of 40mph. Some people are only concerned with getting these monster trucks to 50-60+ and I can't, for the life of me, understand why! You wanna go that fast & faster, get a street car.

On the lathe/mill, if you have the space, do get separate units! Short of that, the Smithy & Shopmaster are about even. They have power-feeds in both directions, always a PLUS! As far as equipment, you're gonna need vises, the one that comes with the Smithy is rather cheesy for using it on the mill, but, works well for a drill press vise....and as an extra set of hands at the bench. You do want to get a "lock-down" vise, tho, it doesn't have to be a Kurt, unless you have that kind of money, $370 to well into 4 digits!! You can get a decent from Enco, #425-7240, plenty big & accurate for RC and most other projects. A rotary table comes in real handy, too. Mine's an 8" Phase II. Then there's clamping sets, (imports work fine), parallels, digital calipers, I have 3, a B&S, Mitutoyo, and an el-cheapo, mikes, dial indicators, run-out gauges, collets, face mill, live centers, not to mention a small truckload of endmills of varying sizes & types and lathe cutting tools. This'll be what you will need to get going, after this, you buy as you need. One other thing, a band saw! You can get them for $200, but, they are light duty and from what I have heard, they cut ok, tho, they do have stock-size limitations. Some people swear by 'em, tho. Another thing that I didn't like about them is that the cutting pressure cannot be regulated! The one I have is a 7x12, horizontal/vertical, which will pretty much, cut anything that you put in front of it, up to 12" and 7" round, including wood and cutting pressure can be regulated, Enco # 137-3178. I got mine on sale for $563.

Tho, if you do have the space for separate units, that is the way to go. I wanted to go that way, but, I have limited space in my basement, due to placement of the furnace & water heater. A lot of people don't like 3-n-1's, mainly due to their change-over time from lathe to mill and vice-versa. For accuracy, they are accurate. There's fellas on the 'net who make firearms using these machines and if that isn't the ultimate form of trust, then, I don't know what is! The space you have available is the deciding factor.

Hope I didn't scare you off with all of this! This is quite an investment, to say the least and it's very enjoyable to say the most!

[RC Jack]

The rims. Haven't gotten to the wheels yet.

[wanabedriver]

wow :eek: ! u machined those!?!? those are sweet, gotta check out the design though.... how much would it cost me to get that set for my emaxx?

[yeeehaw]

my fantisy (sp) is just now coming to reality.
my project (El Presidente) will be based on a maxx and be built for the ULTIMATE reason (krawlin) and acasionally some air.
I like the style you have built your ultimate Ek. I will post pix as soon as I get the chassis plates done. I have been getting my xxx-s rac prepped so I havn't had alot of time to get the allumenum and I also have a redicioulisly lazy mother.
good luck and keep up the good work.
Matt

[RC Jack]

Originally posted by wanabedriver
wow :eek: ! u machined those!?!? those are sweet, gotta check out the design though.... how much would it cost me to get that set for my emaxx?

Thanks. These are just the rims, as the entire piece is a 2-piece modular design. The centers will get turned this week sometime. Each one will be bolted together using 12, 2mm stainless steel capscrews.

To make a set would be very expensive, probably in the neighborhood of $200+, as these aren't turned on a CNC. Most places that do this have several CNC machines which offsets the manufacturing costs considerably. If the E-Maxx wheels are the same as the T-Maxx, and I'm pretty sure they are, there are a few places that make 'em at decent prices on the 'net. Check 'em out!


A crawler based on a Maxx? I'd like to see that. Thaks for the compliment. By the way, my truck ain't made for crawlin'.

[wanabedriver]

i just got an idea... if u made those rims, u should know how to put beadlocks on it. wouldnt that be sweet?
also, do u have RCCA mags? do you remember seeing the July 2000 mag with bad monky jr? otherwise, here's the guys website... site (http://marksmark.net) its a pretty neat electric monster...

[pedeman]

Originally posted by RC Jack
And from the side.






But it's a Ford.:mad:


A DODGE body will be used in the near future!!:cool: :D

sry to be so late to say this, but im all the way w/ that........:):):):):)

[SilverFox]

Thanks RC Jack for the description of your equipment. I knew a little what I needed because I have done a basic machining course at a specialized school. But I'm nowhere neer a full experienced machinist. So your description was of true help for me.

What you said about the space is probably right for separate lathe, mill, drill. But I'm looking to install drive units on a 3-in-1 to make a small CNC with 3 axis (my PowerMac will arrive soon so I will have a spare PC for it). That's why I was looking for a 3-in-1. But I will keep an eye on separate units also, like you suggested, since space is not a problem for me.


Just to come back to the RCV engine one last time... :)
I know that they don't turn very fast, but like I said in the other post, they have an internal ratio of 2:1, so you don't need a 5 speed tranny, they have A LOT of torque. So you just have to put a bigger clutch with a larger pinion/smaller spur to compensate. The engine will have no problem to turn that over. I have seen an RCV 60 engine once and it was turning a 3 bladed prop large enough for a standard 1.20 (like Saito or OS). It's very powerful, but in the torque department.

The only problem I can see is, if you would want to use an existing clutch, like a 1/8 clutch. That can be a problem. With that setup you would need a 5 speed because the pinion is too small.

Anyway I think you figured that out already, you look like you know what you are doing. :D :D

Keep us informed of the progress, the truck looks great!!!

[RC Jack]

Well, for the most part, the centers are "done". (the pic is from the rear),The fronts have to be polished up a bit and put together with stainless steel capscrews. It was a little tedious drilling those holes as there's not a whole lot of room between the drill bit and the rotary table. The drill bit had to be chucked after the rim was in place & centered, that's how tight it was, 'bout a .250" from the tip of the bit to the flange. PHEW!

These are deep......deep......deep dish!:cool:

[wanabedriver]

pretty sweet. i.... want.... give.... me..... :D

[pedeman]

are those for mp tires???- sweet........

[MrCrash]

those are BEAUTIFUL!!!

[MrCrash]

(me)http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/34700/6.jpg

[rhcsavage21]

lol

ha ha:D :D

[rc man37689]

(me too)

[RC Jack]

The rim fits perfectly! Howz zis look?

[wanabedriver]

come on! send me a set for my Emaxx! plz! plz! send it to 123 anywhere, USA. lol

[MrCrash]

Those,are FREAKIN BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[RC Jack]

Thanks! I thought you might "like" 'em.

wanabedriver, I just sent you a set, using that address in your post.:D

[wanabedriver]

gee thanx! when should it be ariving? um, by the way how much do i owe you? :confused:

:D

[pedeman]

can i have a set for a t-maxx? $20, lol... do you have any pics of the whole truck w/ the new rims on? i wanna see!!!!!!

[wanabedriver]

yea, we need the pics!!

[RC Jack]

Originally posted by wanabedriver
gee thanx! when should it be ariving? um, by the way how much do i owe you? :confused:

:D

You should be getting them, oh, about...the Third Coming of Christ.:D :D Hope they aren't too decayed by then.:D If they are, I'll "refund yer money". :D :D

Don't have any pix yet. I only put the rims & tires together so I could take measurements for the new knuckles.

MrCrash, that was nearly my sentiment after I put them together, with one difference, I used a different adjective., if you get my drift. Thanks.

[pistole]

RC Jack ,

How did you machine the hex on the rim's centerpiece ?

[wanabedriver]

oh yea... you cant do that with a lathe... maybe a dremel! a cheap dremel with his whole tool shop... lol

[RC Jack]

Ah, the "secrets of machining". :cool: The hexes were done on the mill, using a rotary table. You can't get this kind of accuracy or consistancy with a Dremel, not even close!

[wanabedriver]

damn... as soon as i get a good job, get economically stable when i get older, im going to get a HUGE shop... make my own trucks... all handbuilt... :D:D:D. ill get back to you about this in, oh say... in twenty or so years... check back then! :D:D:D

in the meanwhile... the dremal can do so much more than a hacksaw and file! :cool:

[TraxMaxST]

RC Jack, those rims are absolutely beautiful! I wouldn't totally rule out building a few sets of those for people in custom offsets and specifications. Just make your price high enough where it's worth your while and I know for a fact there are people out there who would buy them. A high price will also ensure that there won't be enough volume to become a job, but enough to supplement this beast and a couple more.

Good work, as always. I look forward to seeing that Ram body (with Hemi fender badge of course!) painted and mounted.

[RC Jack]

Thanks for the compliment. Is this John?

I think you are wrong about people buying these wheels & rims and I'll tell you why. Why? glad you asked!:D There is a lot of work that goes into making these rims & wheels and what I would have to charge would be ludicrous, John. Take for instance, the MJS wheel & rim, these are done on CNC machines, probably several, and from the amount of work involved and the cost of the material, they aren't making much. Conversely, Triple H wheels, are probably done the same way, using CNC machines, but, they are 1-piece design!!! And their price is well over $200!!!! And from what I can see, they don't sell many sets!! Understandably. But, here's the thing: the MJS wheels & rims DO NOT fit the EK & MP size tires, tho, they do fit the T-Max size tires, whereas, the Triple H do fit the EK & MP tires! My price would have to be somewhere between $250-$300 and THAT'S A LOT OF SHKUDAS!!! You're right about one thing! If the price were high enough where it's worth my while, I won't be selling many of 'em!:D If someone twists my arm............for the right price........

Of course, Hemi will be on the fenders!!! What kind of Chrysler man do you think I am to leave that off??:D :D

[379]

i think that conly precision v8 would give decent top end and gobs of torque plus there would acually be a hemi in it hahahaha

[RC Jack]

Youre right on a couple of things there, I would have a Hemi! 379, tho, the Conley V8 doesn't rev that high to give it any top end, unless the gearing is radically altered. Besides, I don't have $6,000+ to spare, (with blower & all).

379. As in Petercar?

[wanabedriver]

Originally posted by RC Jack
Thanks for the compliment. Is this John?

sorry, im kinda slow... who are you talking about? :confused: :confused:

[wanabedriver]

Originally posted by RC Jack
Thanks for the compliment. Is this John?

sorry, im kinda slow... who are you talking about? :confused: :confused:

HEY! dont BUY a motor, MAKE YOUR OWN!!! just a bit of research... couple of phone calls... lots of experiments... come'on, you GOTTA be able to do this!

[TraxMaxST]

RC Jack was asking me if I was John. Last time I checked, I still am. :D

Don't rule out the possibility of someone buying those wheels though. Like you said, you won't sell many at all, but there are people out there with lots-o-cash burning a hole in their pocket. A good example is go to any motocross track and you're bound to find a guy with a $750 - $1500 paint job on his helmet. Ridiclous! It's all about having something no one else has and looking good.

Did you see the piece in RCCA about the Parma Hemi Engine model and how to mount it in/on a TerraCrusher body? That might look pretty good sticking out of the hood of this beast.

[379]

Originally posted by RC Jack
Youre right on a couple of things there, I would have a Hemi! 379, tho, the Conley V8 doesn't rev that high to give it any top end, unless the gearing is radically altered. Besides, I don't have $6,000+ to spare, (with blower & all).

379. As in Petercar?

i am a trucker i drive a peterbilt dudehaha

[379]

ive heard it hits 13k and acually has a 5spd with reverse hmmm......... wheelies donuts sky wheelies cyclones 1/10 car crushing plus it would sound like a real monster truck too but it would kill any chance of any racing at all with a huge amount of weight high up theremaybe on ur 1/4 scale monster truck

[associatedGTguy]

Originally posted by RC Jack
The only reason there are different size tires front & rear is to get it up on all 4's. The other 2 IMEX tires have no rims in them, yet, as they're being made.

That theory of running different size tires works fine for short straight runs, as you said, in dirt, NOT on pavement. Mud runners have 'em setup that way. The fronts spin first, not only due to the ratio, but, tire size, as well. It's meant to keep the front from lifting too much when skimming mud.

To do this even on dirt, over a period of time, eventually, something would have to give.


Mud racers do sometimes run smaller tires in the front but they compensate by putting a lower gear ratio in the front. The concept is called staggering. My dad use to run mud drags and he used that concept. If the ratio's happen to be slightly off it is better to run the lower ratio in the front. But they shouldnt be off by that much.

[wanabedriver]

dont mud racers use that so initially the front tires pull the vehicle (causing no wheelie), and then the rear tires go faster, making a higher top speed? i dunno. my theory. never watched that much mud drags.

[associatedGTguy]

That may be (to keep from wheeling) but that would only make a difference in class V and VI (unlimited). The other classes, the cars are too heavy to make that much of a difference. All racers try to get the same ratio in both axles but if you have axles of two different company's then the same ratio will not always be availble for both axles. Example : Ford 9in (rear) axles can have 5.83 gears while in the same vehical the front axle can be a dana 27 with 5.57 gears. (my brothers jeep) This is the closest availible ratio for both axles. He only runs 4wd in the mud so that much difference shouldnt matter.

[wanabedriver]

whoa... too much information on mud dragsters for me... I know nothing...
as for axles, i know somethings, but i never heard of a dana 27. is that just a part of the 44, 60, etc series? yea, ford 9 inch is popular. but y would your brother gear so low? does he rock climb? guys running 44's might use 4:10 or 4:56, but i dunno... if the dana 27 is a smaller part of the series, it would break easily from tires that big.

[associatedGTguy]

Yes it is in the dana series. Higher the # the heavier duty it is. My bro has a jeep. The dana 27 came with it (obviously the ford didnt). He put high gear's in it because he's running 44" ground hawgs. He already blew out the spiders in it once then i rebuilt it making it a little stronger. . It has a support bar which helps but it does hold up to the 360 motor. (i tested it out) Its just temporary until he puts his dana HD 44 (became the dana 60) in it (requires custom spring mounts). Actually 5.38's are about right for 44" tires. 4.10's are still to high. There are charts that tell you what tires to run with what ratio but since this is a RC forum i wont go into that.

[wanabedriver]

whew. thought he was running just 35". since its 44", yea, those gears should be right. the part that i got all confused about was that he had a danna 27. since i thought it wanst that strong, he wouldnt put big tires on it. i guess i was wrong, hehe, again :rolleyes:.

[379]

can we get back to topic now thanx

[wanabedriver]

sorry... ;)

RC Jack- WE NEED PICS!!

[wanabedriver]

sorry... ;)

RC Jack- WE NEED PICS!!

[rhcsavage21]

any pic's yet?????

[MrCrash]

What?You's can't see them?:p

[RC Jack]

Ok, you guys want pix?? Here's some pix:

[RC Jack]

You guys did say you wanted pix!! There's red ones, green ones, yellow ones.


tooth...pix!!!!
:D :D :D :D :D :D

[379]

u think u could make pneumatic tires for ur next monster truck for realisticksy that way they can be debeaded if u thrash it hard

[rhcsavage21]

ok then we want pictures of you monster truck that you are building ok.

[MrCrash]

you don't understand.That was probably a pic of the materials he is using to make a concept model of a new part(probably a roll cage)for the truck,so in a way,it DID show part the truck,just in a preconceptual stage.:p

[RC Jack]

(knock, knock) "Hello! Anyone there?"
You guys asked for pix and that's what I posted.....pix......toothPIX . "helllllo!"

This is the only new one that I have, it's a knuckle that I'm making.

[MrCrash]

yeah.Someone's home,they're just unconcious right now;)

I found it funny when I saw it last night,but I had forgotten to include those feelings into my post.

[rx78gp03s]

this monster truck is a master peice compared to soya's emaxx conversion.

this one i am totally giving a giant thumbs up to.
be sure to wait for mine

[RC Jack]

Thanks for the thumbs up, RX!

It's been a while since I posted any pix, mainly cus not much has changed.......til now. The engine's installed, as is the exhaust, and the steering servo. Been working on various steering linkages & placement, which required a half bottle of Advil! No matter how & where I located the steering linkage, there was problems or interference, usually from the 4-link. When the suspension was compressed, the steering slider would hit the lowers on the 4-link. If I dropped the slider down to the point of not hitting the lowers, it was exposed, leaving it open to damage from lack of ground clearance with no way to protect it. Then I came up with the idea of routing the linkage to the front and working off of that, using a split tie-rod. Then I saw I could get a real sharp turning radius if I could do it this way. Here's where the other half of the Advil came in handy! Now, get IT to allign up with the drag link! What?! No servo saver? Ah ha! Found one!! But....the company no longer makes them and the ones on eBay are way over-priced, $69(!), the same exact ones go for $45! Supply & demand! Then, I found one, fitted it..........and it was .5" too short. After taking it apart, I decided to fabricate a lower portion of the servo saver, then fabricated a mounting for it. When I finish the steering, which should be sometime next week, I'll post pix of it.

In the meantime, I'll get the servo installed for the throttle & brake, get the electronics installed & wired. Just waiting on a Savage fuel tank and a new exhaust manifold. Then it's off to the welder's to get the rear tabs on the rollcage repositioned.

[wanabedriver]

damn, i getting a monster headache just looking at that thing... you should put bigger tires on that beast! it looks like bigfoot is on the transport tires! :D

your next project should be making a custom engine. go find a mopar at the junkyard, take it apart, make each piece 10 tiems smaller... how hard can it be? (you better get a costco sized Advil :D )

[379]

1/10scale spark plug u cant do that right now

[tl01boi]

holy f### that is freakin huge u should make a seat on the top and strap a cat to it lol nice work rc jack be sure to get videos when your done

[wanabedriver]

Originally posted by 379
1/10scale spark plug u cant do that right now

make it nitro with glow plugs then. :D even more power!

[379]

wait 5 to 10years

[wanabedriver]

Originally posted by 379
wait 5 to 10years

for the spark plugs or for the engine to be made? ill be able to do both even faster! as soon as i turn 18 or so, so im outta school (perferably out of college), ill make that engine! wait... ill be 18 in 5 years.... DAMMIT!!! :mad: ;)

[yeeehaw]

looks great
there is a thread that shows custom v-8 engines some by Conley and a few other people. The thread is in the General section on this forum.
What the heck is a 13 year old doing cussing Just not privey in my oppinion and I think there is a rule about that.
I think if you designed an engine and could get someone to build you a block you could do the rest. then make a blower or a super charger or turbos. THen you can make a custom go kart that is a replica of the real car.

Matt

[379]

sparkk plugs and other ignition tidbits like the distributer and coil pack

[vols-std]

wannabee bla bla, your are so LAME..HAHAHA.
dude have some respect for what he has done, and don't come with "make your own egine". Have YOU ever tried that?

Huh?

Have you?




GreeTz
Ben

[wanabedriver]

Originally posted by vols-std
wannabee bla bla, your are so LAME..HAHAHA.
dude have some respect for what he has done, and don't come with "make your own egine". Have YOU ever tried that?

Huh?

Have you?




GreeTz
Ben

look dude, im not trying to put him down dammit!! :mad::mad::mad: just look at all these pages to see what he can do. if i had all those tools, time, knowlage, etc etc, i WOULD make the engine. but since im 13, just have basic tools, a dremel, (I DONT EVEN KNOW THE PROPER WAY TO USE THE DAMN DREMEL!!!) zero bucks on hand, ZERO experience with nitro, etc etc, im not going to take that project on. IM JUST TRYING TO GIVE HIM DIFFERENT IDEAS OF THINGS HE COULD DO!!!.

how about you THINK before you criticize me! :mad::mad::mad:

now can we just go back and watch him? thats all im here for. :cool:

[big1s]

volstd shut up you know what just shut up who the hell you think you are wats wrong with you ill bet you he can make an engine. oh its very possible. believe me because i have a machineing factory and its possible and do me a favor im 13 too if you critisise me im ggoing to shut you up so badley:mad: :mad:

[379]

yeah lets stop cussing at each other and watch rc jack build this monster truck k

[big1s]

good idea;) :cool:

[Burtdawgg]

Waoh that is such a sweet Truck!!!!!! Even tho i dont even own a RC car or anything right now.. im going to be getting into it as soon as i get some CA$H!!! Anyway, that is fricken awesome dude, keep up the good work. Oh jw yeah how much money are u planning to spend in this, total?

[TraxMaxST]

Dang, I go away for a couple weeks and look what I miss!

The truck is looking AWESOME! Sounds like it's a bit of a headache, but that is a good headache to have! ;)

How closes to the maiden voyage? Is the steering the last thing to do before lift off? How is the body coming along?

[RC Jack]

For a while there, I thought this thread was gonna turn into a warzone. Just for the record, I'm not that experienced to make an engine, I'm just a....."rookie". Out of all those posts that were..."involved", no one has shown any disrespect to the project, just people making suggestions, nothing wrong with that. Now you guys might only have a Dremel, and a drill, but, you can still do a lot with those!! This pic is what I was able to do with a Dremel & a drill!

TraxMax, the steering is the last "major" obstacle! PHEW!! The steering linkage that's on it now started out as temporary, but, from all indications, will be permanent. I installed a new 200 oz/in servo, Airtronics, and for some reason, is faulty. So, I tried a 133 oz/in servo and the fronts turned...just...ok. This week, I'll have to order a new servo. In the meantime, I can do all the "little" stuff, like throttle & brake linkage, fuel tank. It's been a while since I fired up this 70, so, I don't know how well the ring & cyl liner is. I'll try to start it 2moro...if I can find the starter shaft.

There is one other thing, NONE OF THE SCREWS HAVE LOCKTITE!!:eek:

[MrCrash]

So,has it been officially dubbed "The grape that ate McKeesport"?

Sweet truck!

[RC Jack]

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[egdinger]

i have been folowing this for a while and i have to say that is about the sweetest thing i ever did see, custom or production.

[wanabedriver]

isnt that a pic or a ek4 with a custom roll cage and a sweet wheelie bar? im planing on making a custom chassis for my emaxx this summer, and i think i can do it with just the dremel (just have to cut pipe).

as for the servo, get this one. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLN93&P=0) it has 343 oz of torque with 6 volts for just $32. im going to put one im my emaxx. :D:D:D should be able to turn the tires like nothing. as for the mount..... :( that is when having ur own machine shop would come in handy..... :(:(:(

[MrCrash]

It says nothing about metal gears.With that much power,your gonna kill SOMETHING in there pretty quickly.

[RC Jack]

Thanks, egdinger. Tried to start it this evening, but, there's not much compression; gonna have to rebuild the engine.

I considered a servo like that, but, it would drain my batt pack, but, FAST!!
wanabedriver, that truck pictured above was done, mainly, with a Dremel, a cordless drill and bench-type drill press. Just make QUALITY JOB 1! (where've I heard that before?)

You're right, McCrash, it would KILL something!:D :D

[MrCrash]

Besides your wallet?:p

[big1s]

must be nice jeees amasing my dad has one of those factorys and he lets me use his tools (including the torch) and i dont know how i can biuld one of those things man i wisyh i can do that:(

[wanabedriver]

RC Jack- make ur own reciver packs. make them out of 3300 mAh cells for max time. or better yet, get the 4400 mHa clodbuster D cells :D:D:D:D:D. you wont have to worry about run time!

yea, i still have to find a cheap, quality drill press (and cordless, but the press i belive is better). sure, they have some at school, but i will be making my chassis over the summer: no acsess to school.... :( then again, i wonder if uncle is busy.... ;)

[wanabedriver]

RC Jack- make ur own reciver packs. make them out of 3300 mAh cells for max time. or better yet, get the 4400 mHa clodbuster D cells :D:D:D:D:D. you wont have to worry about run time!

yea, i still have to find a cheap, quality drill press (and cordless, but the press i belive is better). sure, they have some at school, but i will be making my chassis over the summer: no acsess to school.... :( then again, i wonder if uncle is busy.... ;)

[RC Jack]

The 3300Mah sound better; the 4400 D's are just too big! I'm gonna shop arounf, I'd like to stay with sub C. I've been using an 1100Mah Sub C in the old EK and worked out fine, but........

[RC Jack]

wanabe, try www.harborfreight.com for cheaply priced bench-mounted drill presses, brand names like Delta, nothing fancy, just functional.

big1s, the key to making something is planning! Start small & simple, like a shock tower or a bracket. They're mostly flat, maybe a couple of curves, a few evenly spaced mounting holes, little bit of sandpaper...... Plan it & draw it out on paper, then make it like the paper. When you're comfortable with it, move on to something else. If there's a will, there's a way.

Young folks today have tons of technology available to them, whereas, when I was a kid, the only technology around was a....a SLINKY!:D But, this can be a double edge sword! With all of the technology and products out there, why make it(?), just BUY IT! As I see it, a certain amount of satisfaction comes from doing it yourself.:cool:

[ws6]

do you know how long that place would take to deliver to florida?

[big1s]

i have machined shok tower and stuff like that but id never done something like that to create such a thing that takes skill and smartness thats such a work of art. i still am trying to figure out some things i trying to machine and boy its hard. the way you machined those whee;s were aamsing that takes skill transgretion. im in the middle of designing a tracter pull thats hard core its going to have two goped motors fully loaded. ive trying to get it together and find alla the pars for it but im haveing trouble to find diffs that can handle such a thing of that horse power ill try and keep you posted. rite now im trying to find little aliminum pipes and stuff like that made from 7075 t6. if you can give me tips please im going to start my own thread a bout it for all that read this give me tips. thanx:cool: :cool: ;)



Edmond p.s its my first proj. and thank for your help if you can hooke me up with aluminum please.


;)

[RC Jack]

ws6, will this help?: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/retail_stores.taf#FL


big1s, try this place for T6, tho, it's 6061. www.onlinemetals.com.
Depends on what you're looking to make as to whether it's 6061 or 7075. Keep in mind that 6061 is very strong and although 7075 is 50-75% stronger, it's also heavier. Another source for aluminum alloy is eBay! Great prices!

Weedwhacker or goped motors do put out some power and 1/8th scale diffs should be fine...IF ....you use alloy gearcases. Because of the kind of torque involved here, I'd suggest OFNA gearsets, as they are of a coarse tooth design. The thing to keep in mind, especially if it's "never-been-done-before", is there will be breakage, maybe even the OFNA diffs, then, you'd have to step up to quarter scale parts. And for a pulling tractor or truck, breakage is a certainty.

Originally posted by Burtdawgg
Waoh that is such a sweet Truck!!!!!! ........... Oh jw yeah how much money are u planning to spend in this, total?

I have no idea!:D Probably somewhere in the neighborhood of the gross national product of some Third World countries.:D :D :D

[ws6]

oh hehe...damn i feel stupid

later today im getting 25 bucks from neighbor so tomorrow i should be able to go over there and get that cheap($12) soldering gun and im gona try braizing a roll cage for my tc3 just to get used to it...

is 1135° F hot enough to melt thing aluminum tubes... if not then what is the strongest or best solder or brazing stuff...??

thanks...

[RC Jack]

You can't braze with solder. To braze, you need brazing rod, brass and an oxy/cetelene torch. And as far as I know, you still can't braze aluminum and solder is much too soft take the stress of a joint.

[ws6]

yeah i know that but it says i can use the gun with a brazing rod...?
directly from the site "Works with mixed alloy solder, brazing rods "

what type of metal tubing do you recomend for this then... and keep it cheap...

[big1s]

dont use oxy accyteline on a aluminum. (for all the paole who know how to weld,you kno this allready) the aluminum will pop if you torch it. you can weld aluminum with a specific weldor but thats it. if you attemp youll feel stupid and youll learn the hard way listen to me. and brazing takes practice you cand do just like that. (believe me ive welded and tried every machine tig,mig ,heli arc, torch, solder, arc everything);)

[big1s]

for my trackter pul im using 6061 t6 for you i am thinking 7075 t6 maybe depend on what u want

[ws6]

ok... ill have to look at that later...

tracker puller... that seems like a cool half pointless idea... does anyone make semi bodies...??

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Just to clear up a few things.

You CAN braze aluminum.

You can weld aluminum with a TIG welder.

Soldering is NOT brazing.

One very important rule I usually go by. "Good, Cheap, Fast; pick any two." You can't really have all the qualities in one product. I generally like to stick with Fast and Good while straying away from Cheap as it always comes back to haunt me. With that being said, buy the right equipment the first time and save yourself from trouble in the future.

RC Jack - (Assuming T6 grades) 7075 is roughly twice as strong as 6061 with miniscule amount of more weight. 7075 is also more brittle and tends to shear easier than 6061 so depending on your application, you might want to stick with 6061 which is plenty good for R/C.

[big1s]

no ur wrong first of all you dont know what your talking about tig is for steel heli arc is for aluminum and no you cannot braze aluminum because if you youbecause if u put a torch to the aluminum it will pop believe me i read about welding i love welding its a job for me its a passsion (mite sound cheesey)[SIZE=1];)

[pedeman]

Originally posted by big1s
no ur wrong first of all you dont know what your talking about tig is for steel heli arc is for aluminum and no you cannot braze aluminum because if you youbecause if u put a torch to the aluminum it will pop believe me i read about welding i love welding its a job for me its a passsion (mite sound cheesey)[SIZE=1];)

Umm... yea, you can weld aluminum w/ a tig or a mig...

[wizen2002]

sure can have to use the proper gaz for the mig and proper wire.....

[rx78gp03s]

and i can fuse titanium together by sittin on it.

[big1s]

im only going to say this once tig is for steel and a heli arc is for aluminum and mig you can do for both aluminum with some mods :mad:

[MrCrash]

Your all wrong.The ONLY way to get ANTHING to stay together is with superglue and a zippo.

[pedeman]

Originally posted by big1s
im only going to say this once tig is for steel and a heli arc is for aluminum and mig you can do for both aluminum with some mods :mad:

trust me, im doing a project right now for Science and we are welding steel, aluminum and chromoly. TRUST ME, YOU CAN!!!!!!!!!

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Originally posted by big1s
im only going to say this once tig is for steel and a heli arc is for aluminum and mig you can do for both aluminum with some mods :mad:

I suggest you do your research before you make false accusations.

You CAN weld aluminum with a TIG or a MIG with some mods.

You CAN braze aluminum with an OA setup.

If you wish to debate this, I have the entire net at my disposol.

As for fusing Titanium by sitting on it. Thats not exactly fusing unless your butt emits massive amounts of heat to actually melt the two metals together.

[MrCrash]

Well,lemme go grab a couple titanium screws.I just finished dinner,and it was taco bell night:p

[RC Jack]

Well, I'm not going to get involved with the last few posts concerning welding, brazing, etc. The right answers have already been posted and to continue debating this would be futlile.

By the way, no one mentioned DUCT TAPE!!!

[MrCrash]

DO'H I knew we forgot something.

[rx78gp03s]

Originally posted by RC Jack

By the way, no one mentioned DUCT TAPE!!!

im' definetly gonna have to agree with him

[wanabedriver]

Originally posted by ws6
ok... ill have to look at that later...

tracker puller... that seems like a cool half pointless idea... does anyone make semi bodies...??

i would guess tamiya would make em. (they have semi kits). i also know that yokomo makes a semi body for sedans. it may be cheaper, it may be more durable, but WONT look half as good. oh yea, there is also another company.... what is it....oh yea, its something like Wedico. website is http://www.gardentrucking.com.

[RC Jack]

These are the latest pix, but, they're with the "cough, cough, Ford , cough, cough, body. The Dodge Ram is being painted and should be done in a week or so.....hopefully.

[pedeman]

SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

[RC Jack]

#2

[MrCrash]

HOLY $&#^!!!That is no mere monster truck,it is rolling art work with attitude!

[RC Jack]

#3

[RC Jack]

#4. I know, I know, it's still a cough cough Ford cough cough, body......the Dodge Ram is being panted and won't be ready for a week or so.

[MrCrash]

I'm sure that no one else would mind having to stare at the purdy innards instead of a furd shell.I know that I wouldn't:p

[379]

maybe in the future u can make the 2stroke find its way back in the box and drop a 4stroke in there then u will have plenty of oomph to heave that artpiece over rocksa and thru mud up to its balloned rx and snorkel hehefor the mean time if it runs roll it over onto that damn ford body it has a roll cage to protect the truck dont it ps that truck id damn cool dude i wouldnt rock climb with the dodge body tho might rollover onto the dodge body use the ford for rock climbing dodge for any other runnin k dont wanna see a dodge ram get wasted

[RC Jack]

379, I'd love to put a 4-stroke in it, but, there is a problem with starting the engine. The TTR 70 and the soon to be released TTR 90 both use a cordless drill to start, which makes things easier. The only way I'd be able to install a 4-stroke at this time is to use an on-board starter, much along the lines of the T-Max & Kyosho Dodge. There was another 4-stroke that another fella told me about, but, the max rpm was only around 5 or 6,000rpm, but, the starting method on that engine could work. Hafta do some research on that. Eventually, I'll find a way....when I get time. If there were just 25hrs in a day, instead of 24..........:D

".....a rolling work of art with attitude." I like that!!! Thanks, McCrash!

Thanks, pedeman!

[pedeman]

give me pics in motion... lol

[379]

pullstart anyone

[tl01boi]

.. what about a weeedwacker engine? they have pullstarts

[379]

and bout as much power as a .21 with the bulk of a 5cyl radial for a rc plane im talkin .60 or so 4stroke with pullstart os makes some nice pullstart equipped 4strokes u do want torque dont u

[Janders]

Can you shave the head on a weed wacker? If you just port the head and run high compression you could probably get decent power for few $$.

[MrCrash]

you could probably squeeze 8-10+ hp out of one.

[379]

nitrous oxide anyone hahahahahahahaha

[379]

Originally posted by Janders
Can you shave the head on a weed wacker? If you just port the head and run high compression you could probably get decent power for few $$. \


janders have u heard ov any 4stroke weedwackers they are 2stroke and to high a compression ratio and it will start to ping detonate and otherwise screw up gasoline is easily burned u know

link to a 4stroke (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT58&P=0) that is retrofittable to my nitro rush

[Janders]

Time to hit up garage sles for a weed eater. What's the #'s for 12:1 compression, about 80hp/liter. It'd be worth a try. I could dremel the shi-z-it out of a weed eater head in less than an hour. run some colder plugs(lol), and some 116 race gas(would that work w/ 2 cycle oil?).

[tl01boi]

why not try running rc nitro fuel thru a weedwacker?:D lol

[wanabedriver]

Originally posted by tl01boi
why not try running rc nitro fuel thru a weedwacker?:D lol

that may be hard. all i talk about nitro is theory, but i think there is a bit more than just converting it. one thing will be the spark plug. then next would be maybe the compression ratio. then you would need a tuned pipe... :D so yea, NOS might be the easiest way out for a weed wacker.

[MrCrash]

why not try running rc nitro fuel thru a weedwacker? lol And for his next trick,he will stick an M-80 between his thighs,and hope for the best!

[Janders]

I've run mogas(gasoline) through a diesel before, and that ran hot enough(it idled ~3000). I don't think I'd run both high comp AND nitro fuel, allthou for a garage sale $30 weed eater, it might not be that much of a loss...

I'm so used to tuning real cars..i.e. ones that have a CAS ot distibutor to retard timing.
Retrofitting aquamist to deter detionation may be one way to go.. water is the cheapest way to increase octane;)

[379]

the con rod in most weedwackers probably cant take glow fuel they might just barely be able to handle nos and where would u store the heavy ass nos bottle on the weedwacker however a nos equipped weedwacker could hang with a chainsaw as far as cutting wood is concernedwith braided steel cutting cables

[Exille]

just wanted to educate everyone in this thread about NITROUS (NOT NOS, N.O.S is A company that makes nitrous) mainly that NITROUS is NOT flamable, says so right on the bottle, its an oxidizer that helps atomize fuel better and acts as a compression enhancer, but is in NO WAY flamable, dont believe me? go to your local performance shop and buy a bottle, open the valve and light a match, then watch in awe as the clear gas puts out the flame! :eek: :eek:

[tl01boi]

nos is basically c02

[Exille]

thats a very good example, except that nitrous doesnt help plants grow =P

[wanabedriver]

HOLY SHISNESS!! nos is just co2? wow, i learned something new today. nos is co2.... but i dont understand completly.... y co2? wouldnt we want to inject o2 insted? cause thats what burns... right? so y dont we inject o2? that way, we lean out, make it richer so more fuel burns, right? so more power.... but then again, not so safe....
but anyway, in the orignial fast and furious, y did the green car w/ nos blow up? is it casue it was under pressure? or just special effects....
im kinda confused... can someone plz clear this up? :confused:

[tl01boi]

actually nos isn't really c02 nos is oxygen that is compressed into a tank just like c02, the more air that get's into the engines carb the faster it will go you will notice that when u floor the throttle more air would be sucked in and nos basicaly forces more air into the carb by releasing the oxygen into the carb or something like that lol

[379]

if it was co2 then it would be called nitrous dioxide not nitrous oxide

[wanabedriver]

k, so im not going crazy.

by the way, r u guys both from HI? otherwise, its really late...

[tl01boi]

nope not me im from tacoma washington as in washington state

[pedeman]

Originally posted by Janders
...(would that work w/ 2 cycle oil?)...

You would have to if you used a weedwacker engine, but you dont have to....

[Janders]

Originally posted by 379
if it was co2 then it would be called nitrous dioxide not nitrous oxide

C02= Carbon dioxode
N02=nitrous oxide
Yes, NOS is just a brand name, but it was the first and most popular(versus brands like Zex). Trying to make people stop calling it NOS is hopeless, it's a constant argument on the car forums.

As I said before, one of the most effective ways to increase 'octane effect' is to spray water into the intake track(not a lot, just a small mist). Just as a side note, higher octane actually burns less easilly, and is harder to ignite(i.e. it won't 'preignite' in high compression environments causing detonation).
Anyways- I think we've started something that should be in it's own thread, not bastardizing this one:)

[LouD]

wrong button

[SilverFox]

Why not use a 4 stroke weed eater engine?

[MrCrash]

They actually make those:eek: :confused: ;)

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Yes, they do.

[tl01boi]

blah stick a moped engine in it kick start it like a moped to lol

[SilverFox]

Here there is one:

http://www.growinglifestyle.com/prod/B00004R9QV.html

But I know Weed eater brand have one also.
Honda have some small 4 stroke as well.

Maybe you can take tires from a garden tiller, those with great tractor threads, with a good 4 stroke engine. Huummmm what a beast... :D :D

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Ugh, stay away from Ryobi's. They aren't known for making quality engines... I blew two of these up while experimenting with them. These are really crappy engines.

Stay with name brands like Sthil, Husqi, Shindiawa, and Echo. These are professional units that are made to be used and abused every day and are going to get you the best bang per CC.

[SilverFox]

I never own a Ryobi but I just posted that link to show a small gasoline 4 stroke engine. :)

For my part, I prefer small Honda engines.

[TraxMaxST]

Boy, this thread went to hell in a hurry! :D

The truck is lookin seriously sweet RCJack!

How does the suspension feel on the bench? Did you get the engine rebuilt yet? When is the maiden voyage?

[wanabedriver]

GEEZ!!! WHY DONT YOU JUST PUT A BLOWN BIG BLOCK MOPAR INTO THERE! THEN U WONT HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT POWER!!! :D:D:D:D:D
but u will have to worry about space...

[MrCrash]

Mmmmmm,Hemi.

[wanabedriver]

Originally posted by MrCrash
Mmmmmm,Hemi.

fullsize

[MrCrash]

huh?

[RC Jack]

Damn, I'm gettin' lost in this thread!:D I considered a weedwhacker type engine, but, finding one that has a high RPM is not that easy, tho, I did find one. That just might be the engine of choice in my next truck. As far as the 4-stroke version, they don't rev all that high and any decent one will be big bucks!


TraxMaxST, I'm just waitin' on parts, like a fuel tank, titanium turnbuckles and a few other things. The suspension feels real good....on the bench, tho, I do need to change the oil in the rear shocks, too heavy and rebounds too slowly. Also, the rear inner shock mounts were temp and used only to get it up on all fours and are about a half inch too short, creating a steeper angle on the rear driveshaft, robbing HP! About the only thing I'm not satisfied with is the front balljoints.....they're much too stiff for the steering. I've spoken with a few bearing companies about looser spherical bearings, preferably, ones that are easy to manipulate by hand, I should hear something this week on them.

The body........because of the complex design, has taken about a week, just for layout & masking, with the actual painting probably starting this week. It's being painted by TeamDuze out of British Columbia. I'm expecting it to be..........."spectacular in it's simplicity". We'll see.....!


N.O.S.? Yuh...

[wanabedriver]

MrCrash- a fullsize hemi :D

RcJack- how about using RPM's two stage shock thingys? i just figured out how they work, and the idea seems good to me!

[RC Jack]

wanabedriver, I have about $270 in shocks alone!!! Ain't about to buy more!

[pedeman]

lol, any more pics???????

[wanabedriver]

whoa, $270! :eek: thats over a quarter of how much is in my emaxx!

besides, the shock things are pistons. here is a site of info on the pistons. (http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/faq/pistons.htm) besides, i THINK its only $7 or so bucks for a set (u may need 6 or so....)

[RC Jack]

Well, the last of new parts arrived.....minus 1 50mm turnbuckle!!! (I need 2!) Not even a receipt in the package or a word about only shipping one! So, I sent them an email, twice(!), stating the above and I don't really care who's fault it is for only receiving 1 turnbuckle, maybe I ordered "one", assuming that it was "1 pair" or maybe 2 were ordered, but, only one was shipped. The fact that there was no online receipt to check & verify this, put a "slight" crimp in communications....on their part. Rather than to name the HS at this time, I'll give them some time to reply to my email(s). If they don't..........:mad:
So, because of this, I cannot wring out any bugs on a "shake-down" run, so, I'll have to wait........:mad: :confused: :mad:

I would have gone to my LHS, but, they seem to have trouble with some Lunsford part numbers when I tried to order other turnbuckles from them, and that I get from Lunsford's website, ie, "not a good number." So.......

Lesson here? Make sure you get an online receipt immediately after submitting your online order!!! (so you can check & verify your order for discrepancies.

I'm not too PO'ed about this, but, mainly about the lack of communication on the HS's part!

Oh POOPIE!! (cuz I can't say the other word here!:D ) I'll still run it this weekend, if I have time, using the TTR POS turnbuckle. Tsk, tsk, tsk......

[rx78gp03s]

u can always make ur own parts....
like me

[wanabedriver]

what hs did u order from? i wana make sure that its not towerhobbies. they claim to have an online account of past orders, but i wana be sure.

as for the "oh poopie", i think other words are not blocked out (starts with a c, ends with a p). but if ur trying to save our poor ears (eyes?), then thanx. :D

[pedeman]

I WANT MORE PICS!!! LOL all i can do is drool...........:D :D :D :D

[RC Jack]

Malfunction! Malfunction!


Yesterday, I took the truck outdoors, started it up and the steering was so tight......... Seems the balljoints are much too tight, so, I threw them in the drill press to spin them 'til they loosened up some.......nada! Back to the drawing board...I need to find some loose balljoints that won't bind, so, in the meantime, I'm redesigning the front control arms, temporarily, until I can find what I need. If this new design works out and it should, I'll make a cutter so I can mill the ball recesses in alloy. I'm gonna just do the lowers....for now, if the uppers are also affected, I'll have to re-do those as well. Oh, well, ssshhh....tuff happens.:rolleyes:

[pedeman]

any more pics???

[RC Jack]

Well, I have these 2 pix. Everything is together, all but the control arms. I still have to cut out the left side plate, the right side is already done.

[RC Jack]

Sorry 'bout the pix quality, but, shrinking them down to 61k from 79+k, even a jpg, looses some clarity.

[wanabedriver]

try posting some close up pics of your steering. im guessing there is a bad angle somewhere, and ill try to help u find it.

[RC Jack]

There's nothing wrong with the steering! When the bearings, (balljoints), are left loose, to turn within their seats, the steering is fine, only when the the bearings are tightened, which is why I'm going for a different setup....for now, until I can find some bearing-type balljoints that stay loose.