OFNA LD-3 Nitro Touring

[spenzalii]

LOL. Yeah, I will probably ge the dual chamber natural pipe just to psyke people out. I tell you, once the car hit second, it was off like a rocket and still building speed at the end of the straight (which means I know I have to change the gears). At some point I will put my stablizer on, but I don't have a clue how. The RTR didn't have any notes on it (scan it and post it for me Info-man?)

[Information Man]

Ok, just to warn you it is a crappy photocopy to begin with.

But, I'll do my best

[Grifter]

Does the LD3's Stock Engine hold a Tune well?

Thanks!

[spenzalii]

Um, well....

Honestly it's a 60/40 split between bad carbs and good carbs on the Force 12. Some poeple have had great success with it. Others (like myself) wanted to punt the car because of the engine. If you put a bead of RTV around the base of the carb and backplate before you run it, you will greatly reduce the chances of problems with the engine. Mine ran well at first, but after I flipped the car the engine was never the same.

[Grifter]

I'm not too worried about the Stock Engine, I would just want to learn how to Tune on it.

I would want to drop a Fantom .12 or .15 in it after the Force .12 goes.

[Nightmare_au]

4. The chassis, 3mm Vs 2.7mm

I believe the arms are different also..

Originally posted by Information Man
spenzalii

Your right maybe I was to fast to type, the hobby is what YOU make it.. 100%

well I got my Hong Nor LD3 I started to take pictures of it.

there are a few differences that make this kit special

1.centax clutch

2.foam tires ( ellegi I think, feel about 35-37 compound )
30mm rear - 26mm front COOL !!

3.Stratus body looks to be a generic but is 100% clear

that is all I see that makes it stand out..

the rest is 100% pure LD3 Pro

I post pics when I get the entire set done !!

[Information Man]

Nightmare_au

your right it is a 3mm chassis, I forgot to mention that !!

The arms seem to be the same, I ordered a set of "PRO" arms for my RTR LD3 and they are an exact match to the hong nor arms
unless of course by some fluke I got hong nor arms for my RTR ??

I'll never really know :confused:

the RTR kit and the PRO kit are both great !!!

[Nightmare_au]

ahh ok. With the arms I read they where different. With the RTR do the arms completly cover the arm shafts or can you see the middle part of the shafts?

Going from a hobby shop website the "normal" arms do not cover the arm shafts (like in manual pics) where the "New Hard Compound Suspension Arm Set" do cover it. My Pro came with the ones that completly cover the shafts.

[Information Man]

the pro arms cover the shafts and for the rear replaces the turnbuckle with a upper arm..

[Grifter]

Have any Mags. done a review on the LD3?

Thanks!

[Nightmare_au]

Anyone know the difference in the old and new CVA's?
(LS-05 and L-17)

"Part No. : LS-05
New CVA Universal Joint"

I busted my rear CVA today when someone hit me, didnt look that hard either.. was very surprised it broke :(... (they are L-17)

[Grifter]

I know that the RTR LD3 with the 2 Speed and Fail Safe comes with a Carrying Bag, but does it come with a Glow Plug Ignitor and Fuel Bottle too?

Thanks!

[Information Man]

Nightmare_au

I have never seen that "new" part number

I have both the RTR and the PRO version and in both kits the part number for the universals is L-17 that covers both front and rear, where did you see that part # ??

Grifter

The LD3 RTR comes with a glow starter and fuel bottle :)

[Nightmare_au]

The new CVD's are listed here
http://www.jethobby.com/
click on "Modified Parts For LD3" to get the list with pics :)

Also scroll down down down and you will see the pro arm kit people :) that covers the shaft...

[Grifter]

Originally posted by Information Man
Grifter

The LD3 RTR comes with a glow starter and fuel bottle :)

The LD3 really is a great deal!!

I definitely need to get one now....

Thanks!

[Information Man]

Grifter

You must get one, or you are no longer allowed to post here :p

Hope you get one soon, I know at my LHS the RTR's cannot stay in stock !!

[Information Man]

Nightmare_au

I think the only difference is the part number

1 is Hong Nor the other is Ofna but the part is the same

I have the new arms that cover the shaft !!, work very well and look slick !!

[Grifter]

Originally posted by Information Man
Grifter

You must get one, or you are no longer allowed to post here :p

Hope you get one soon, I know at my LHS the RTR's cannot stay in stock !!

Come on now, I know you LD3 guys are nicer then that!;)

Like I said, my Cousin was ranting and raving about it last time I went to his hobby shop, and now that I found out that it comes with a Glow Ignitor and Fuel Bottle, it seems like it'd be a great First Nitro. I think I should be able to get the RTR with 2 Speed for around $250. I need to call him up and find out for sure.

[Luckyman4]

Got my new LD3 Pro in the mail yesterday and I put my 6-gear diffs together last night. It sure feels "notchy" ... is this something that smooths out after a few runs? Or have I got problems? Anybody else assembled a 6-gear diff? Also, the outdrive that's on the diff housing side is very tight - the gear side spins relatively freely while the plastic housing side seems a little bound up ... normal or not? :confused:

[Grifter]

I can get the RTR LD3 for $280 with some extra Glow Plugs, etc. Great Deal if you ask me.

Just thought you'd guys like to know.

[puribong]

Lucky4man diff will get smoothout as you run so don't worry..

Grifter, you might find LD3 2speed RTR for even cheaper than $280 around the web. I picked up my LD3 RTR(single speed) for $200 off ebay. It was brand new in the box..

[Grifter]

Originally posted by puribong
Grifter, you might find LD3 2speed RTR for even cheaper than $280 around the web. I picked up my LD3 RTR(single speed) for $200 off ebay. It was brand new in the box..

I probably could, but I'm getting it from my Cousin's Hpbby Shop. Considering that he sells the Car for $320, it's a great deal. And he might give me a discount on Gas etc, it'll end up being a better deal then anywhere else...I think.

[Luckyman4]

Originally posted by puribong
Lucky4man diff will get smoothout as you run so don't worry..

Thanks Puribong! ... it just goes against my common sense to put something mechanical together that feels 'rough.' Besides RC, I spent many years repairing & maintaining automated film processors at a newspaper I worked at, and "110% smooth" was the goal. But I double checked the LD3 instructions and it's pretty specific about NOT assembling the diff so it feels smooth, in fact it says it should be rough prior to break in! "Drive me nuts!" LOL But that's how I'm gonna set it up ... got my fingers crossed. :D

-John

[Information Man]

Luckyman

yes mine was very rough to after I built it, I have yet to run it but on my RTR version they smoothed out very nice after about 5 tanks of nitro

Grifter

you know I was just teasing :rolleyes:

[Grifter]

Originally posted by Information Man
Grifter

you know I was just teasing :rolleyes:

Actually, I didnt. I wasnt being rude when I responded was I?

[Information Man]

Grifter

you were not being rude at all !!

I was just joking..that is all :)

just want to make sure this forum does not dry up !!

but I wish the weather here would !!

[puribong]

Originally posted by Grifter
I probably could, but I'm getting it from my Cousin's Hpbby Shop. Considering that he sells the Car for $320, it's a great deal. And he might give me a discount on Gas etc, it'll end up being a better deal then anywhere else...I think.

oh if your cousin owns or works at hobbyshop then definetly buy from there.. $280 is actually good deal since they are many places sell LD3 RTR for over $300. Get one soon and let's talk about it.:)

[Grifter]

Just making sure Information Man, these smiley faces can be confusing sometimes.

puribong: Yeah, he owns his own Shop,Aggressive Hobbies (www.aggressivehobby.com), so I try to get all my stuff from there, he gives me really good deals as well.

[Information Man]

Grifter

Your right, what may sound funny as you say it in your head before you type, does not always turn out that why when some one else reads it...sorry for any confusion.

I am a joker by heart and love to have fun, so don't take my cheeky comments seriously..I just like being cheeky and fun loving.

well for my 2 LD3's nothing really new the weather here has been pretty bad so I have not ran for 2 weeks !!

and I still need a new engine to drop into my Hong Nor Pro Kit
but that might be on hold until fall or winter

I was thinking of the OS .12 TR ( non turbo ) I can get one for about 165 US NEW
what do you guys recomend any other choices in that price range

[Grifter]

I'm planning on going to get my LD3 tomorrow. I dont know if it will fall threw or not.

Information Man:It's alright, usually I'm quick with that stuff, I consider myself a funny man myself. But in some cases I sit back and wonder what's going on!!

It seems like the Fantom Engines are really becoming popular. I may drop a Fantom .12 in right from the start. In the words of my Cousin, "Some kid in an LD3 with a Fantom .12 was on my a$$, and I had a Nitro TC3 with a Picco!!"

Of course a lot has to do with the Driver, but it's still a great Engine.

[Information Man]

I looked at the fantom line they look very good...

but my LHS really does not carry anything for them so I am a little concerned for my own ability to get any parts I may need in the future... but I will keep looking

anybody else have any idea's ??

[Grifter]

Well, I got it!!

LD3 with a Fantom .15!!!!!!!!!!

Didnt have time to break it in yet, I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again for all the help.

[Information Man]

Good to hear Grifter !!!


You are gonna love it !!

[Grifter]

Thanks!

I pretty much finished the Break-In and started driving it around.

Information Man, do yourself a favor, get a Fantom. This thing hauls, holds a Tune well, and just looks so cool!!

Although I havent been able to open it up all the way yet, I dont think 2nd Gear is engaging. How do I adjust it? I'm going to read the Manual but I wanted to see if I could get a better response here.

Thanks!

[Grifter]

I have another question: Is it bad to run a Nitro Engine when it's humid? I thought I read somewhere that it's better to not run it when it's humid.

Thanks!

[Nightmare_au]

Anyone care to share their LD3 set-up (and what surface you race on). I am new to touring cars and wouldn't mind knowing how the experienced racers have their LD3's setup :)

and Grifter, the humidity thing you would of heard about would of been about using after run oil, or the fuel left in engine sucks moisture out of air = rust. Ive ran my 1/8 buggy in the rain in the past (yeah not good for wheel etc bearings)

I'd read manual for 2nd gear, its got pics :) or it should have, you will understand how it works.

[Grifter]

Ok, thanks!

[Grifter]

I still have some problems with my car. I still cant get it to Shift and the Throttle Linkage seems to be messed up. When I go to accelerate the metal piece that is used to Brake hits the Servo Arm. When the Radio is on it is at a 90 Degree angle like the Instructions say, it seems like an easy fix but I cant figure it out.

The Fantom is a freakin' Rocket even without the 2 Speed, I'm very pleased so far.(Knock on Wood)

Another thing: I need a new Center Drive Shaft. Mine is Bent/Warped!! Is there a better, stronger one available or should I just get another Stock Shaft.

Thanks!

[Nightmare_au]

:eek: :eek: Serious eh? wow.... That engine must have some punch, I have not seen any hop up shafts :(

Originally posted by Grifter

Another thing: I need a new Center Drive Shaft. Mine is Bent/Warped!! Is there a better, stronger one available or should I just get another Stock Shaft.

Thanks!

[Grifter]

Yup...I dont know if it's because of the Engine or when I hit the Curb.:D But I didnt hit the Curb hard or anything.

The car is still driveable but I dont want to Drive it with the Shaft like that, it's rubbing against the Tank alittle.

[speedydave]

I'm not really looking to buy anything righ tnow, but I'm just curious, how does the LD3 hold up against the likes of the NTC3 and the MTX3? If I got back into nitro touring(had an NTC3), I was probably going to get an MTX3 or NTC3, but I like the maintenance factor with the shaft drive and the gear diffs, and that the NTC3 needs quite a few hopups before it will hold up.

[Nightmare_au]

Just letting you guys'n'gals know there are LD3 set-up sheets now posted on OFNA (http://www.ofna.com/setups.html) (by Steve Nguyen) and on Jethobby (http://www.jethobby.com/Hongnor/Hongnor.htm) (by Jeffery Lin) websites.

May help some newbies (like me) setup their LD3 ;)

[puribong]

Originally posted by speedydave
I'm not really looking to buy anything righ tnow, but I'm just curious, how does the LD3 hold up against the likes of the NTC3 and the MTX3? If I got back into nitro touring(had an NTC3), I was probably going to get an MTX3 or NTC3, but I like the maintenance factor with the shaft drive and the gear diffs, and that the NTC3 needs quite a few hopups before it will hold up.


LD3 should hold up well against cars like mtx-3, ntc3, 705,R40....etc...
Car is fully adjustable and very well featured. Just make sure you have parts support from lhs.. LD3 came out with Pro version which has more options included in the kit and is selling for only about $250. If you are looking into ntc3 team kit, you might want to take a look at LD3 Pro too.

[Grifter]

I still cannot get the 2 Speed to Shift. The Manual doesnt really help me that much. The only thing I adjusted was the 2 Screws that screw into the Tranny. It says something like, loosen them if you want it to Shift sooner, tighten if you want them to Shift later.

I adjusted it so it would Shift sooner, and I thought it was shifting too soon. Like once I hit the Throttle it would Shift, but I dont know if it is or my mind is playting tricks on me. It wasnt a very distint sound.

What am I doing wrong.

[Nightmare_au]

If you think it is shifting straight away screw (tighten) in the screwsa bit.. drive.. and tighten again.. you know if you are in 2nd gear or not because top speed in first is not that fast compared to 2nd :)

[Information Man]

When setting or resetting the 2 speed make sure to use equal small adjustments on the 2 set screws. The best thing to do might be to remove the 2 speed inspect it for and damage or wear ( dirt, grit, etc ) and reset it as per the manual and start with fresh and known settings. Your also right about the sound ( or mind ) thing being tricky I set my 2 speed early for my short & tight track but it does sound like it shifts almost upon take-off but that is not the case the thing you have to stop and thing about is just how fast that engine reaches it's shift RPM.

take your time and inspect your parts and you should have a smooth running 2 speed in no time :)

[Grifter]

Thanks guys!

I'll try it out once I get my Drive Shaft, damn that Fantom with all its Torque!!

The screws to adjust are the ones on an angle and has a Spring in it or something, right?

[Nightmare_au]

Maybe the NTC3 shaft fits? A few people reckon some NTC3 parts can be used......

[Grifter]

Originally posted by Nightmare_au
Maybe the NTC3 shaft fits? A few people reckon some NTC3 parts can be used......

I think spenzalli tried it and said that it doesnt fit.

I wish it did, I'd get the Hardcore Racing Shaft!

[spenzalii]

I'm baaaaaaaaackkkkkkk!

Man, who knew getting married was such hard work? But, as of 12:30 pm August 9, I am not an owned man! Hopefully, it won't be so bad, especially since the RC money has already been worked into the budget!

Since I've been on honeymoon, I haven't run my car. Today I had to clean up the house, get ready for tomorrow, and rebuild my friends RS4 Rally to Sport2 spec. I just got to reading the posts today (the resort I went to had no access to an internet account). So here it goes:

The NTC3 shaft WILL NOT fit. The shaft is a bit too wide on both ends. Best bet is to order one from your LHS or Nitrohouse. I bent mine flipping it over a corner dot. You can bend it a bit so it will only rub a bit on the tank, but I'd rather have a new shaft.

On the two speed: yes, you want the screws with the springs on them. Your best bet is to tighten the screws down all the way, and then back them out equally (try 1 1/2 turns) until you hear it shift. Once you hear it shift, then tune for performance. if you tighten it, it will shift later. Looser and it will shift earlier. And by all means, wait for the engine to warm up before you try touching the shift point. If not, you can't tell if it's working.

With the Fantom, get rid of the stock gearing! Stock runs 16/20 on the clutch bell and 42/38 on the tranny. I went with a 5 tooth spread with a 42/37 on the tranny. Try either a 17/22 or 18/23 on the bell. The 18 will give you really good top end, but the low end will be a bit compromised, and that's with a .15 CV-R, which makes nice low end torque. I imagine either will work for the Fantom.

Now I'm off to tend to my wife...

[1 Bad STi]

Hey Fellas, lookin at getting one of these cars. Have a few questions??? Please help out. Being a RTR does how well built is it? Does the engine need a lot of tuning? Is the break-in pretty easy? Thanks, Ben

[spenzalii]

In short, good build, good performance, great value, craptacular engine. You can read thru the earlier posts, or I can give you a longer recap if needed (I probably had mine longer than anyone else on this thread)

[1 Bad STi]

well basically I can't decide between a TC4 or LD3 because I've heard mixed thoughts about both. Just like to get your thoughts and experieces with the car. Most importantly I just want something pretty much ready to rock outta the box w/ out major surgery to fix the RTR kit. I've also heard mixed thoughts about both cars motors. A couple years ago, I had ofna motors w/ my 1/8 car which constantly called for tuning.
So just looking for the best packaged. Thanks.

[spenzalii]

Surgery, no. The kit is very well stocked and runs nicely right out the box. It has a slew of accessories with the kit (the carry box alone was enough to sell me) and the car performs well on the track (provided you get rid of the kit tires, that is).

As far as the engine, it's almost like driving an electric car with a 540 can motor in it. A bit unerwhelming after a while, because the chasis can take much more motor. Now, some people have had great success with the redhead, and the slide carb is a nice touch. Others, like myself, have been, shall we say, frustrated with the engine. To give the motor credit, it did run, break in and tune fine for me at first, until I took it to the track and it wanted to show it's butt. Some could have been my fault, but after I did everything I was supposed to to get it not to flame out on me (seal the backplate & carb, reset to factory specs, change the glowplug, etc) I couldn't get mine to run for very long. So I chucked it and got an OS. Like I said, THAT WAS JUST ME. You may have great success with yours.

[Information Man]

Dollar for dollar you get a way better value with the LD3 over the TC3.

with the LD3 you get 2 speed and failsafe included and installed, front shiny cvd's, carrying case, glow ignitor, fule bottle and enough plastic parts to almost rebuild the kit !!

it takes very little $$ to make a "pro" kit and will run equally well on the track or on the street.

Probaly the only reason you would want the TC3 is for the after market parts, but the LD3 is close behind.

I have 2 LD3's

#1 RTR w/hopups

#2 Hong Nor Pro version ( super nice )

so now you have my 2 cents

[spenzalii]

Lucky you. We're still waiting for Ofna to drop the FUll Option version. I would hate to buy all the pieces one by one. That get's expensive, you know...

[Nightmare_au]

Here is a pic of the NEW CVD's and the "OLD" ones that came with my LD3 Pro kit.
http://www.serverdoc.com/personal/pics/ld3_cva.jpg

[Grifter]

I finally took the LD3 out to a Lot today. Got the 2 Speed working. I said it once I will say it again. I Fantom .15 is a Monster! Granted the Stock Tires are junk, I ripped them to shreds, the thing is a Rocket. I love it, holds a tune like no ones business.

Great car so far, had a run in with a curb, flipped it, got is back on all fours and kept on tearing up the lot. Very durable so far.

[Information Man]

Nightmare_au

Lookslike they changed the cup and the output shaft a bit, am I correct ??

Grifter

HEHE, the LD3 is built like a tank :D

[Nightmare_au]

Yes the CVA is now inside the bearing.

A tank? Maybe I shouldn't of started with 1/8 buggies (the real tanks) , I wouldn't expect so much heheh. Look what broke on my LD3 Pro...

http://www.serverdoc.com/personal/pics/ld3_cva_snap.jpg
(spun out and rammed, was only slowish so was surprised it broke.)

I must not jump my LD3... I must not jump my LD3.... :D ROFL

[1 Bad STi]

Info Man- How was your luck w/ the stock engine on the LD3? Dont have fundings to upgrade the engine right off the back so was wondering about stock powerplant cause it will be doing the work for a while.

[Information Man]

1 Bad STi

I had great luck with the stock engine, until I scored the sleeve taken it apart for maintenance ( my fault for rushing )

then I dropped in a OS .15 CV-X and the LD3 really started to come alive ( stole the engine out of another of my kits )

but I have both good and bad about the stock engine...so it is hard to compare them.

Nightmare_au
I have yet to so that !?!? wow
I am selling my 1/8 buggy have a look
MY BUGGY (http://www.rcwild.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86)

you may have to create an account to read that post.

[Philly's Finest]

Hey guys

I'm considering the ld3 & tc3 right now. I'll be getting one or the other in the next month. Any ideas of when the full option will be out?

Anyone know if the tc3 centax will fit the ld3?

Is the engine placement in the ld3 like the tc3 as far as starter boxes go?

I'm really thinking of getting the pro and hopping it up to full option version. Is there anything more to the ld3 full option besides the graphite goodies? Like maybe a centax - two shoe clutch...hmm.

[spenzalii]

The TC3 centax won't fit: standard vs. metric sizes. However, the engine placement is the same, so the starter box placement will work. They actually have a centax for the LD3 in the works (or out, I haven't looked at Nitrohouse yet), but I think it's a bit expensive. No clue when either it or the full option will be out.

STi - don't worry about the stock engine. Is this your first nitro? If so, you won't really notice the power difference unless you have it on a track with a Mugen or Sirio running past you. It will be more than sufficient for bashing or fot a novice class race. As always, more is better, but unless it gives you problems with starting, run it until it breaks!

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by spenzalii
The TC3 centax won't fit: standard vs. metric sizes.

Does that come into play with a clutch set-up? The clutch is an accessory of the engine not really the car. The kawara(centax) clutch is swappable between the 705,gt4,and mugen because of their similar design base. That's what fueled my question.

As long as it's around a $100 bucks I would get it. That what they go for a gt4 and they are a great hop-up that really boost performance.

[spenzalii]

You can give it a shot if you want. However, I know the gears are different on the two cars, so you may have troubles getting the mesh correct at the very least.

[Information Man]

If you want a LD3 with a centax clutch, look for the Hong Nor Pro Version it comes with a centax clutch, foam tires and a 3mm chassis..

I own one and it is a very nice kit !!! :p

[Nofx]

no the ld3 comes with a 2.2 mm chassis:p

[Information Man]

Nofx

I was talking about the HONG NOR version not the OFNA
the HONG NOR "PRO" version has a 3mm chassis I have one I should know.. thanks :p

but the regular OFNA RTR uses a 2.7mm chassis as does the OFNA "PRO" version

so your close

[spenzalii]

2.2, 2.5, 3mm... just get a caliper!:p

Regardless, it's still a solid slap of aluminum. And you can get the 3mm chasis. For around $75

[Information Man]

spenzalii

You should know better the difference between 2.7mm and 3mm is winning the race !! 3mm is 100% stronger than 2.7mm and it is 50X stiffer... ( that was a joke )

Actually I don't care, I was just telling the facts as I have read them...2.7mm and 3.0 mm makes no difference to me.

just wanted to state the differences between the OFNA kits and the HONG NOR

thats all

:D

[Grifter]

Hey guys, I'm having some Slide Carb Problems.

I was all ready to go out and bash and I started looking over my car, I turn on the radio and the Servo closes the carb all the way. I had this problem in the beginning but I adjusted the idle screw and fixed it. Now when I hit the Throttle the part that slides out is also rotating! And the Black Accordion looking thing is coming off which will allow dirt to get into it. It seems like I have too much Travel in the Servo. Should I adjust my Servo Arm, what's going on?

And also, the metal stopper that pushes against the swing arm to engage the brakes is in the way of the servo arm. So if i try to gradually go Full Throttle, it'll hit the servo arm, and wont have enough power to "hop" over it. I wish I had my Digicam so I can show you what's happening, they seem like easy fixes but they 've got me stumped.

Thanks!

[spenzalii]

I had a similar problem with mine. Unfortunately, being at work I can't look to see whet I did. You can move the throttle linkage to give it less throw, which wil help with the carb. as far as the brake crossing over, I moved the metal linkage back and inserted fuel tubing and a cone washer to engage the brake. Better stops and less rubbing

[puribong]

out of the box, my LD3 rtr throttle linkage was little off so I had to rework on my throttle linkage. After little work, the little metal stopper doesn't hit servo arm as much as before. now metal stopper just lightly touches the servo arm when servo is at full throttle position. not a big problem. different servo arm will elminate the problem. If I understood correctly, sounds like your problem can be fixed easily by reworking throttle linkage and idle screw.

[Grifter]

Thanks guys!

The idle screw is in all the way, it was the perfect setting for when I didnt have this problem, it had it open just enough to let it idle.

I Think I'll try to move around the arm that connects to the Carb, put it in the different holes on the Servo Arm.

[Information Man]

If you want put a small dab of thread lock on the idle set screw to stop it from vibrating out.

I have a stock engine if anyone wants it
P/S are gone but the rest is new !!

Make me a offer !!

thanks

[Philly's Finest]

So what is the better kit? The Hong Nor Pro or the US Pro?

I went to a japanese site and the hong nor pro specs didn't seem far removed from the rtr version. Is there anything else to other then the centax?

I really wish Hong Nor would update their site and put some solid info about the ld3 in general up there.:rolleyes:

[Nightmare_au]

from the hong-nor site..

LD3Center Drive Shaft, colored
http://www.ozshops.com/shops/hongnor/uploads/des_files/products/hnls29.jpg

hmmmmmmm...

[Nightmare_au]

what do you mean? whats up with these 2 hong-nor links
LD3 1/10 4wd Shaft Drive Touring Car 80% Assembled (http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?1.IL&mt=na&re=h&nt=dynamic&ta=_hnld3_detail::products,d:hnld3,p:,s:,i:2330,t: 4184,c:2243&ip={mt=da&it=n&ap=hongnor&co=catdetail&us=1061540039-52&kn=cat.101_202_305_menu&**)
LD3 PRO 1/10 4wd Shaft Drive Touring Car Kit (http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?1.IL&mt=na&re=h&nt=dynamic&ta=_hnld3pro_detail::products,d:hnld3pro,p:,s:,i:2 623,t:4314,c:2486&ip={mt=da&it=n&ap=hongnor&co=catdetail&us=1061540039-52&kn=cat.101_202_305_menu&**)



Originally posted by Philly's Finest
I really wish Hong Nor would update their site and put some solid info about the ld3 in general up there.:rolleyes:

[Information Man]

I really don't think there is a big difference between the HONG NOR and the OFNA PRO kits.

I bought the HONG NOR simply due to the fact that it is much harder to find in North America and really was not supposed to be here at all.

I also wanted the centax clutch, the stratus body and the foam tires.

I have both the RTR ( almost pro now ) and the HONG NOR PRO
kit, but HONG NOR really needs to do something with there site to keep it up-to-date..

my 2 cents

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by Information Man
I really don't think there is a big difference between the HONG NOR and the OFNA PRO kits.


Oh okay I was thinking of getting the hong nor but if theres not that much of a difference then I'd probably stick with the us version. Shiping from there is murder on the pocket;)

[Information Man]

Your right shipping would be alot from over sea's

the one I got was a fluke at my LHS we were looking at the pro's decided to take a peek and it turned out to be hong nor so I took it !!

[1 Bad STi]

fellas, Will my Hpi Subaru 200mm body fit on my LD3 w/ no body post mods?

[spenzalii]

Um, body post mods like what? Since most 200mm bodies will fit, I'm confused to what you're asking

[1 Bad STi]

Nevermind, I found the solution.

[1 Bad STi]

Also, When I order my LD3, what are some good tires for Asphalt/Tennis Courts?

[spenzalii]

Foam or rubber? If your just playing around, either medial pro or venom hypergrip. Both have the insert made into the tire and have decent grip. For a bit higher grip, go with a set of TakeOff or Team Sorex.

Foams, it's hard to go wrong with just about anything thats selling fast. Nitro Shoes, Fast Foams, Speedmind tires, etc.

[Information Man]

1 Bad STi -

#1 Any 200mm body will fit any 1/10 nitro car

#2 Tires I do mostly parking lot racing so this set up might work for you as well.

FRONT

Ellegi 26mm 40 shore ( 40 weight shock oil )

REAR

Ellegi 30mm 37 shore ( 45 weight shock oil )

that is my simple set-up it works very well, since I have a non-stock engine I still can spin the rear if I want but if you get the RTR it will hook up nice, you may have to trim the steering hubs a little to get the 26mm tires to fit and not dig into the foam.

I really don't use any rubber tires, they never perform as well as you hope IMO at least

hope that helps

[1 Bad STi]

thanks fellas, ill look into it.

[1 Bad STi]

can you get me some links to these tires (with good prices) you suggest ??

[1 Bad STi]

What size tire is the LD3 26mm or 24mm?
Do glow plugs come with the car, if so how many?

[Nightmare_au]

I am running 30mm on rear, 26mm on front.

[1 Bad STi]

anyone using Pro-line tires at all?

[puribong]

stock tire is 26mm and LD3 RTR comes with 1 Ofna/Picco glow plug. You should have at least 1 or 2 back up glow plugs with you. From what I heard from expert guy at my lhs, you should replace to fresh glow plug after you are done with break in the engine.

[Information Man]

puribong

I guess that is one of the "should do" things that nobody does, it makes sense the plug can get easily fouled during break-in but I doubt to many peopel remember to change them, they just want to rip it WOT !!


1 Bad STi

I use only Ellegi Foam Tires my LHS has a huge selection and they are at a very good price about 18 US a pair

here is the link to the manufacturer ( there Italian )
ELLEGI TIRES (http://www.grpgandini.com/)

ask your LHS what they are willing to carry and use them
it is simplier for you that way

[1 Bad STi]

Leaning towards rubber tires. Is it wise to get belted tires?
Was comparing Venom Hypergrips to Pro-lines.....

[Nightmare_au]

Well I had a big hit and broke front lower arm on my LD3 Pro..
Are the "KS-12 Hong Nor - MC Nylon Front Arms for LD3". Being machined nylon I take it they are strong, but are they too strong? ie Am I better off busting arms and not other parts worth more on big hits..

Anyone using them? any good?

They cost quite a bit more then the LD3 RTR and Pro arms.

[Grifter]

I'm still trying to find out what's up with my Carb.

My main question is: Is the Slide Carb supposed to Rotate? I dont think it is..

Thanks!

[Information Man]

Grifter

No the carb should not be able to rotate, something must be loose/broken

Nightmare_au

Stick with the "PRO" arms they are way better than the RTR but will still break without killing the front end, sometimes you can go to strong !!

1 Bad STi

I have read that the venom tires are not the greatest, if you want belted check out the HPI Advan's if you want Pro-Line I would go with the road rage. Belted tires tend not to ballon as much when you punch the throttle, as the rubber heats up from contact on the ashpault the compound will get softer and tend to ballon ( like you see on the big drag cars ) it may look cool but it kills you tires and the glue bead, so belted tires were brought out to help stop it. I used advans from HPI and they are the only rubber tire that I have found to have any grip what so ever.

You may want to try this, keep one set of rubber tires for bashing or testing and get a set of foams for racing.

[Nightmare_au]

How about the Machined Nylon arms? nobody tried them? (these are not the Pro arms, they cost like 3 times more and font/rear some in as different items) I'd expect if you ran the Nylon arms you would be ripping a LOT of the front end apart?


Originally posted by Information Man

Nightmare_au

Stick with the "PRO" arms they are way better than the RTR but will still break without killing the front end, sometimes you can go to strong !!

[1 Bad STi]

How do the ellegi's wear? Pretty quickly?

http://harcohobbies.com/wheels_tires/ellegi-racing-tires.aspx

[Information Man]

1 Bad STi

Foam tires do wear, mine tend to last me about 3 -5 days of racing or about 20 - 30 hours. That may not seem like a long time
but a tank only lasts about 10-15 mins so you get a lot of run time. The main thing with foam tires is correct set-up this is crucial for the tires not only to get maximun traction but also to wear evenly.

With rubber tires you don't need such a perfect set-up but the tread on the tires ( the main gripping surface ) tends only to last a few races and then you are left with a slick that don't stick !!

With foam tire to get max life you have to have a even set-up and not be the donut king of course, the biggest difference between foam vs rubber tires is this...

Foam tire wear down rubber wears out, every time you use a foam tire from new to you wear it down to the rim it is the same tire with the same stick, rubber tires last as long as the tread when that is gone so it the tire..

I run mine until I hear the rim touching the ground :D

[1 Bad STi]

Thanks for the input.

[Information Man]

Here is a picture of my HONG NOR PRO kit, this is the 1st run.

I am running with a OS 12TR Turbo and a RDLogics turbo 1 piece pipe with a centax clutch using stock gearing.

http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/DSCF0010.jpg

I had to make a few upgrades to the kit.

#1 ditch the stock screws and use all stainless steel
#2 replace the rear arm ball cups with GS Racing cups, the stock cups are far to short and don't allow alot of turnbuckle thread to be used, just plain weak !! see #1 in photo below.
#3 ditch the stock rear upper arm spacers instead I simply used a 3mm nut on the inside and a 3mm lock nut on the outside, the rear upper arms are now 100% bulletpoof !! see #2 in photo below.

http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/DSCF0010a.jpg

both these pictures were taken from my site www.rcwild.com

[Information Man]

I posted more pics of the kit being built on my site if you would like to see

www.rcwild.com

thanks

[puribong]

great looking site Infomation Man. I already added your site to Fav. list....... I will join the forum soon. hehe

[Nightmare_au]

Good info/pics/site Information Man
Thats what I like to see, simple changes to the kit to make them better ;) (the information man delivers! :D )

I've just moved my front body posts from bumper to front shock towers, This is my first touring car and its getting more airtime then my 1/8 buggy lol :( snaped one of the front post mounts on bumper, should be safer on the front shock tower.

BTW if ANYONE upgrades their RTR or PRO arms to the MC Nylon ones post here and let us know how they go (and how much the chassis twists when they hit something hehehe).

This could be some time away I guess. Just looked on the OFNA website and they are not listed in the LD3 hop-ups, only the PRO arms are listed so I guess the MC Nylon arms have not hit USA yet? (anyone seen them?)

[Information Man]

Here is a ton of hopups listed on the ofna site

CLICK HERE (http://www.ofna.com/ld3options.html)

lots of goodies there :D

[Nightmare_au]

I have checked those 3 pages of hop-ups on Ofna's site but the nylon arms are not listed there. The Hong-Nor part numbers are KS-12 (MC Nylon Arms Front) and KS-13 (MC Nylon Arms, Rear).

I hate looking at those hop-up pages, ohhh so much I want.. rofl..

[Information Man]

Nightmare_au

Don't waste your time on those nylon arms, of course they are better and stronger, but who cares the pro style arms are strong and light...you need a weak point in the kit if you want it to survive a crash...now go drool over the LD3 hop-ups again !!!


LOL

:D

[spenzalii]

Those Pro arms, are they front and rear, upper and lower? I can see the rear design is different (only wish the rear hub was caputred) but I can't see the design of the others up front. If the front lower arms are different, I may as well pick up a set, seeing as how I had to replace one before the race Sunday. Speaking of which...

I came in 2nd in the A-main with my LD3! Hooray! Well, I have to grade it on a curve. By the middle of the race, it was only two cars running. The winner had a heavily modded TC3 with a NovaRossi in it. My lowly mostly box stock Ofna with it's CVR held it's own, but really couldn't match the horses he had. Plus he was a much better driver, and this being my second race ever, I still take it as an accomplishment. I'll get my lap times tomorrow when they post them. I guess what they say is true, to finish first, you must first finish. So the war of attrition goes to me! I managed to escape with minimal damage. I nuked the body on the first qualifying lap. The front end was cracked, the winshield was coming out and the rear spoiler came off somewhere around the first 3 minutes of the 8 minute qualifier. Try driving a car into a fast sweeper and a hairpin without one. Instant spinout. So to finish that one at all was an accomplishment. Fortunately, I had a second body with me, a RX7 that I had just finished painting the night (morning, I went to sleep at 3:00) before. So between heats, I had to finish cutting out the holes on the car, paint and cut the spoiler and add some decals. Cutting the holes was diffictlt, because the hood is rather long and the cockpit sits further back on the chasis. I had to cut a semi circle in the hood and a semi circle in the winshield to get the cooling hole and access to the fuel tank. Then I needed the side window cut for the pullstart. In all, it didn't look too bad. I was just putting the spoiler on the car with 15 seconds before the qualifiers started, so I ran the second qualifier with the overspray film still on the car! Afterward, I noticed that the lower arm was starting to crack. I had pulled the shock mounting screw out a few times with various meetings with a curb before and that day, so I didn't want to take a chance with the main. Unfortunately, one of the 1/8 scale drivers needed a pit man before I finished. SO I helped him run his main while my car was still in pieces, rushed back to finish my car in 2 minutes and got out in time to run my race. GO Ofna!

[Nightmare_au]

Information Man, thats what I figured, the pro kit arms are cheap enough to replace ;)


spenzalii, well done! :)

[1 Bad STi]

spenzalii - good job

have any pix w/ the rx7 body mounted?

[spenzalii]

Not yet. As you can tell, the body was literally brand new when I put it on the track. I'll have to either move the body mounts to the shock tower or remove the body holder to get the front to stay down far enough on the car. I'll try to post what I have, and show off my XXX-S bod.

[puribong]

Well done Spenzallii:)

[1 Bad STi]

Need to get some good glow plugs????

[1 Bad STi]

suggestions please..

[Information Man]

I run OS #8 and have never had a problem and the price is good and they are sold everywhere !!

hope that helps

[spenzalii]

OS8 and MC59 are safe bets, especially if you run the Force 12. My hobby shop had me try one of O'Donnell's new plugs, and it runs great as well. I had to lean it out a bit, as the settings were a little off for that plug, but it gives great response and drops the temps a few degrees, believe it or not.

I think I may have to change my clutch shoes. The bottom end feels off, which shouldn't be with a 17 tooth on a CVR, which is known for it's bottom end. That and the fact that the car bolts when 2nd gear hits has me thinking the clutch is engaging a bit early. What do you think? My only fear is that it may make the car a bit harder to drive smoothly

[rckid11]

I just ordered a Ld-3 rtr. I can't wait to get it!

[Information Man]

spenzalii

There is no need to change the entire clutch ( unless you want to ) I had a similar problem I bought as set of serpent clutch springs which are a bit stiffer than the stock ofna one's and the problem is gone..


rckid11

Good choice, you should be very happy.. I heard the new ones out will include electric start, is yours one of those ??

[spenzalii]

Thats what I meant. I may change the shoes as well; I think I cracked one when I installed the OS. So your clutch engaged later and had more snap on the bottom?

[1 Bad STi]

thanks for the suggestions for plugs.

I'll have my car by the weekend.:p

[1 Bad STi]

check out these deals on foams fellas...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3143676084&category=34063

which shore should I get for parking lots/asphalt/outdoor use?
I plan on 26mm front 30mm rear.

[1 Bad STi]

Originally posted by Information Man
1 Bad STi -

#1 Any 200mm body will fit any 1/10 nitro car

#2 Tires I do mostly parking lot racing so this set up might work for you as well.

FRONT

Ellegi 26mm 40 shore ( 40 weight shock oil )

REAR

Ellegi 30mm 37 shore ( 45 weight shock oil )

that is my simple set-up it works very well, since I have a non-stock engine I still can spin the rear if I want but if you get the RTR it will hook up nice, you may have to trim the steering hubs a little to get the 26mm tires to fit and not dig into the foam.

I really don't use any rubber tires, they never perform as well as you hope IMO at least

hope that helps


good setup for my purposes?

[spenzalii]

It should be. I wouldn't run more than 40 shore either way. And so far I haven't had any problems with 26mm on the front. Now 28 or 30mm on the other hand will rub the steering knuckle up front, so don't try it.

[1 Bad STi]

I want to get some good life out of the Nitro Shoes if i get em,

45 Shore 26mm in front, 40 Shore 30mm in rear

or

40 Shore 26mm front, 35 Shore 30mm in rear

????

[1 Bad STi]

Radio Control Nitro:

UNDERSTANDING SHORE RATINGS
Shore (foam-density) ratings provide an easy numerical reference for tire selection. The ratings range from as low as 25 (very soft) to 55 (quite hard). Tires with shore ratings lower than 35 are typically used for 1/10-scale electric carpet racing; the higher-shore-rated tires are strictly for nitro cars. Although tires with lower shore ratings may be too soft for nitro cars that run on high-bite tracks, they work well when the temperature drops below 60 degrees F and when the surface is unprepared and loose. You can expect tires with shore ratings lower than 35 to wear more quickly and to be damaged by hard impacts.
For most tracks and surfaces, tires with a 40 shore rating are a good starting point for the rear wheels. If the car feels a little tight (the rear end does not want to float around the apex of a turn), use a slightly higher shore rating of 42 or 45. The tightness indicates that the rear tires are too soft, so they provide too much traction. You don’t want to fight the car around a turn; it should feel smooth and fast.

Tires with shore ratings of 45 and higher are usually used for front tires, but they can be run in the rear on hot days or when traction is really good. A shore rating of 45 is a good starting point for the front. If the steering is too aggressive, use a higher shore rating; if the steering seems lazy, run a lower-shore tire up front. Higher-shore tires will generally wear less and last longer. In general, it’s best to use the hardest tires that you can get away with so that you get more life out of them. You could always apply a little tire sauce where needed to get the car planted to your liking.

[puribong]

Originally posted by rckid11
I just ordered a Ld-3 rtr. I can't wait to get it!


Welcome to LD3 Forum rckid11. You won't be disappointed with your choice. btw which RTR version did you order? single speed or 2 speed?
Your LD3 RTR might have electric start like Infoman mentioned.

[1 Bad STi]

electeric start?!?!?

[spenzalii]

Yep. Check Ofna's site. They have a picture of it burried somewhere. You can have your very own cross between a 4Tec and a TC3. Too bad it's only on that Force .12.

[rckid11]

Its the 2 speed with the failsafe. I think the pic of the ld3 with the electric start is at tower hobbies, under nitro rtr cars. I think it may come tommorrow.

[1 Bad STi]

I've heard that Ofna has not sent out the elec. starts yet.

[Information Man]

Hmmm...well the electric start is both good and bad.

It is a great idea for the person just getting into the hobby ( to make thing easier ) the bad is it is on a so-so engine I have never had a problem but I have read that some have..

also as time goes on it will be ditched for a starter box
but will finf it's way on to something else, I know for a fact most of the parts for the force .12 will fit a OS .15 including the elec start.. :D

[rckid11]

I think the ld3 that I ordered does not come with the electric start because tower hobbies said it was a pull start in the description.

[Grifter]

Oh wow, it was a long day with the LD3 yesterday.

I find out what the problem was with the carb. The Slide Carb has a groove in it that a little piece goes into to. It looks like a Mech. Pencil refill, well that was out allowing it to rotate and close the Carb. Put that in and headed out. I threw on some Tires that were on my Drifter, took off the elerctial tape so I thought they would have some grip. I was so wrong. The Car had no traction, skid into the Curb, but I didnt seem to be going that fast, didnt matter, ripped off the Right Rear Suspension Arm. The Tire got wedged in between the Header and Chassis. But luckily it was an easy fix, nothing was so broken that bad that the Car couldnt be run. I fixed that and started up the Fantom .15 again.

I was taking it slow because I knew the tires were horrible, but I guess it wasnt slow enough. I skid again, hit the curb, didnt appear to be any damage. The Car goes full throttle, smashes into the curb head on, one of th Tires goes flying off, I stop and turn it off. The Drive Shaft is bent to all hell. It didnt seem like anything else was "hurt." It was one of those crashes where you just want to put it down and look at it another time.

The worst part was it was all my fault, should of just waited for better Tires, and it all happenend in about an Hour.

Sorry for the long Post, I had to Vent.

[rckid11]

how fast can the ld3 2 speed go?

[puribong]

Which drive shaft was bent? If it's the main center drive shaft, then replacement isn't that expensive but if it's front cvd, it will cost you like $30......

rckid11, You will reach around 50mph with stock engine with 2speed. If this is your first nitro, the car runs at 50mph might be too fast.

[1 Bad STi]

Originally posted by 1 Bad STi
check out these deals on foams fellas...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3143676084&category=34063

which shore should I get for parking lots/asphalt/outdoor use?
I plan on 26mm front 30mm rear.

If you need some better tires hit this up fast before they go.

[Grifter]

Yeah, it's the Center Drive Shaft. I already went through one, it's $10.

[puribong]

looks like center shaftdrive is must have backup parts along with front suspension arm.

[Information Man]

If replacing arms make sure to get the "pro" level ones they are about 10% beefier than the RTR ones and include an upgrader to stiffen the upper rear arms..

[spenzalii]

Man grifter, that does suck. I bent my driveshaft already, but then I did flip onto a curb... Not a bad idea to have them as a spare.

$10 for tires is pretty good, but I think I'll get the Egilli's. My Nitro Shoes wore a bit quicker than I liked, and they started to groove and chunk pretty quick. I got some Fast Tires and they went thru the qualifyer and main with little sweat.

As far as the Force moving to $50, you better have a long stretch of road.

[Nightmare_au]

I am thinking a few of us might need a hop-up drive shaft!. Lets hope Hong-Nor are going to make one :)

[1 Bad STi]

He also had Ellegi's

[Information Man]

I have spoken to that ebay seller via email, he is a really nice guy also some of my friends have purchasedfrom him and received there goods in a very timely manner exactly as they were described.. So with that said BUY BUY BUY :D

Tires are truly the key to having a fun day racing or a bda day spinning out, so when you can buy good tires and cheap prices it willleave you the room you need to experiment to find the right combination, when you find it stick to it !!

have fun

[Grifter]

Yeah, I would love to have an upgraded Drive Shaft.

I dont even remember what happened...:D. I must of skided out first, clipped the wall and then the Throttle got stuck. It's all my fault, I couldnt of just put it away for the day and gotten some new Tires....damn that Fantom!!

[spenzalii]

Oh the pressure of power:D
I have to get to the shop and get those clutch springs. I hope that helps out the bottom end. That thing rolls in second, but by then, the RPMs are up, so I guess that would explain why it acts like somebody kicked the rear end when second hits. I also have to find a pipe. My stinger got pushed in, and freezing it only brought it out a little bit. My LHS told me about a one piece, side exhaust pipe thats supposed to be coming out, but if they still don't have it, I may have to go with a Fantom dual chamber pipe and be done with it

[Information Man]

If your using side exhaust, you may not have that many choices in headers but the still have a awsome selection of pipes.

I got my pipe for my OS .12TR-T here ( clicl below )

CLICK HERE (http://www.rdlogics.com/store/C_15.htm)

there pipes are awsome and at really good prices, actually all there stuff is priced well..just look at the bumpers, the TC3 will fit the LD3 and you can buy 2 for 4 bux !!! really comes in handy when you use multiple bodies..

:D

[1 Bad STi]

I had excellent luck with that ebay seller so far. As soon as I did the purchase we did several emails back and forth quickly. Can't wait to get these tires. AND ALSO MY CAR!!!!! (Today)

About the break-in....... is it best to just follow the instructions?I was looking through the PDF files and it doens't talk about break in.

[rckid11]

does anyone know where to get the electric start for the force .12?

[spenzalii]

Try Nitrohouse. Call or give them an e-mail

[puribong]

Originally posted by Information Man
If your using side exhaust, you may not have that many choices in headers but the still have a awsome selection of pipes.

I got my pipe for my OS .12TR-T here ( clicl below )

CLICK HERE (http://www.rdlogics.com/store/C_15.htm)

there pipes are awsome and at really good prices, actually all there stuff is priced well..just look at the bumpers, the TC3 will fit the LD3 and you can buy 2 for 4 bux !!! really comes in handy when you use multiple bodies..

:D

Infoman, that TC3 foam bumper is bolt in fit? no mod required?
looks like their stuffs are well priced.

[Information Man]

puribong

I don't know if the holes are the same

but I measrue my bumper and my buddy's TC3 bumper and they are the same size..

you may just have to punch new holes, but look at the price !!

:D

[puribong]

yeah.. hella cheap.... I hope Rdlogics make some hop up parts for LD3.

[Nightmare_au]

Hey everyone
I am having problems with my one-way bearing in 2 speed. After awhile it starts to slip, I believe this all started when my fuel was leaking out of tank from the spring not being strong enough (now fixed) but fuel went into the one-way and started to slip. I took it apart, cleaned and put a smear of automatic tranny fluid on shaft, it was ok for while but now shes slipping again.

What the CORRECT method to give new life to the one-way, do you lube them at all?

[Information Man]

Nightmare_au

here is how I clean any of my bearings, it may not be the correct way but I have yet to have a problem.

#1 remove bearing ( duh )

#2 spray bearing with any type of degreaser I use ELECTRONIC CLEANER it is a little gentler than the automotive stuff

#3 wipe bearing until dry ( do not spin a dry bearing !!! )

#4 for a one way apply a little bearing grease to the rollers

then test it on the shaft to make sure it only works one way..

and voila your all done...keep the can of cleaner handy in your tool box. it has a million uses..

by the way use the product in a well vented area, it is not only flamable but also has very strong fumes..

puribong

just bought a TC3 bumper foam from my LHS and it fits 100%
abd was 3 bux cheaper then the ofna one ??



:D

[Nightmare_au]

I also use electronic cleaner, cleans well and dries fast. Ill try a little bit of grease, I think my problem may be I'm putting too much lube on :) Thought it "Tests" ok, untill its had some use then fails..

Ill live a small amount of grease a go. Thanks for reply :)

UPDATE:
Just tried small amount of grease, slips. Checked my one-way from "spare" pro kit and they have different one-way bearings. The spare one looks like other one-ways ive seen where this one I am having problems with has like 4 groups of 3 rollers and one spring for each group (normally the ones ive seen each roller and spring is alone)

Might try a very very small amount of ATF fluid, if that fails i'll put spare in.

[stefan]

Guys, I've tried a lot of ways to maintain one-way bearings and the very best way is to clean it and then put one drop of Serpent oneway lube on it.

Just one drop, that's it.

Also, make sure that the shaft is clean and not worn out before you put the bearing back on.

[puribong]

Infoman, that's good to hear that TC3 bumper fits 100% on LD3.... hehehe plus it's cheaper..

btw have you guys read through Oct 2003 issue of RCCA yet?
There is ad for Ofna's New nitro touring car for Hyper competition or something.. I don't have mag on me now so I don't remember exact name but it started with Hyper something.

Looks like this car is made by Hobao and supposed to replace Hyper10 touring car and Ofna is trying to have 2 competition touring car in their line up just like just like what they had done few years ago with their Nitro OB4 and Hyper10.

[spenzalii]

Yeah, I saw that/ Something like the Hyper GP4 Pro, I believe. Interesting strategy, importing and selling both shaft and belt under one roof. I just hope one doesn't undercut the other in sales, because I really do like the LD3

[Onetrip]

Just some ?s about the LD3. I can get a 1-speed RTR for $220
at my LHS, Where can i get a 2-speed tranny kit for a good
price if i wanted to upgrade later? I am probably gonna get a
Hyper 7 PBS RTR too, and was wondering if the starter box
that comes with that car would start the LD3 if i got the
Pro LD3 kit with Picco motor (PART #: 34707 with
Picco 3 Port w/Slide Carb). I am relatively new to nitro so
any help would be apprecitaed.
THXS,
1T

[Nightmare_au]

Well I have given up on the one-way bearing, I believe its not up to the task. Who else got this type of one way in their kit?
http://www.serverdoc.com/personal/pics/ld3oneway_bad.jpg

This is the one-way thats working fine.
http://www.serverdoc.com/personal/pics/ld3oneway_good.jpg

The springs are very small in the one-way not working compared to the one-way that is working. Wonder if they have had a re-call on faulty bearings hehehe

[Information Man]

You should call Ofna and see what they are willing to do for you.

I thought I would post some pics of our little race from Aug 30

http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/Aug%2030%202003/DSCF0057.jpg
Track layout and path, it is not as small as it looks the main straight is 115 ft :D

http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/Aug%2030%202003/DSCF0067.jpg
And there off !!

http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/Aug%2030%202003/DSCF0069.jpg
Shiftin' into 2nd

http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/Aug%2030%202003/DSCF0071.jpg
PT Cruiser getting some air !!

http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/Aug%2030%202003/DSCF0072.jpg
Back on track

continued on next post

[Information Man]

http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/Aug%2030%202003/DSCF0075.jpg
The turns are harder than they look


http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/Aug%2030%202003/DSCF0084.jpg
See I told you..Bye Bye mister TC3 :D

http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/Aug%2030%202003/DSCF0082.jpg

http://www.rcwild.com/pictures/Aug%2030%202003/DSCF0086.jpg
All done for the day, That's my HONG NOR PRO under that body

All and All it was a great day, I got a wicked farmers tan to show for it, funny the PT Cruiser is my dad he runs a RS4-2 RACER single speed and he is hard to beat, his car is made for the smaller track we could barley catch up to him on the straights
and to top it off he is 63 !!, he is a good driver until the pressure hits and he see's your catching up then he pushes to hard and ends up on the roof !!

Man I wish you all could be here !!

:D

All pictures courtesy of www.rcwild.com and taken by Nitro Grrrl

[puribong]

wow, your dad is great~.. my parents still thinks R/C is toy for children and I am way too old for this hobby.
Nice pics, infoman. That NTC3 looks sad:)

[Information Man]

Thanks, My dad likes to race, he is not as into it as me so the RS4-2 RACER does him fine. I used to try to talk him into getting something better but I learned a valueble lesson.

Let people enjoy the hobby there way

what that means is that even if someone is doing something you consider wrong don't offer your advice or try to discourage what they are doing, unless what they are doing will ruin there gear or yours.


Onetrip

your best to get the 2 speed if possible not only is it a faster kit but also contains the failsafe. As for the starter box if it comes with the Ofna buggy it will only work with that buggy, but is still a very good thing to own.

[Nightmare_au]

I use my 1/8 buggy starter box to start my LD3, but I have to put the LD3 on backwards (so the engine is facing forward, like the buggy, you don't wanna turn the engine backwards! hehe)

As for the 2 speed etc, save some cash and buy the kit with the 2 speed in it, or even better the Pro :)

Originally posted by Onetrip
Just some ?s about the LD3. I can get a 1-speed RTR for $220
at my LHS, Where can i get a 2-speed tranny kit for a good
price if i wanted to upgrade later? I am probably gonna get a
Hyper 7 PBS RTR too, and was wondering if the starter box
that comes with that car would start the LD3 if i got the
Pro LD3 kit with Picco motor (PART #: 34707 with
Picco 3 Port w/Slide Carb). I am relatively new to nitro so
any help would be apprecitaed.
THXS,
1T

[puribong]

:)

[puribong]

yeah you are better off buying 2 speed RTR at first time then upgrading it. I don't know the exact price of 2 speed unit but I heard they cost like somewhere from $80-100. damn expensive considering ntc3 assembled 2speed unit is only $50 retail.

[1 Bad STi]

Finally got the car!!! Break-in went according to plan. Have ran about 12 tanks through the car. Getting the car RTR I had to make some major adjustments, but after all that was done the car ran f@#$# awesome. I already killed my Proline S3 V-Rage tires from some fun driving. :D ;)

Well... what can I say, I love this car.

[1 Bad STi]

More pictures will come soon. Already picked up an HPI M Coupe Body.

I had one problem with the car.... Perhaps I did not set the failsafe correctly, My car got stuck at about half throttle and the failsafe did not work. So car had a stuck throttle but yet I could steer the car. At the time my current battery power came from 4 NIMH Energizer batteries. After I examined the batteries with a meter , I found that 3 of the batteries still had a good charge, while 1 battery lacked a charge. Before I ran the car all 4 cells had a full charge. I guess these batteries suck ass. I picked up 4 Sanyo Nicds because my pops has had excellent luck w/ them with his cars but have not had a chance to run it yet because of the rain.

Could you guys give me some feedback with the failsafe?

[rckid11]

I just finished breaking in my ld3 yesterday! It works perfect! I am so happy with it. The stock tires do slide alot , but I am planning to get some better ones. Is it normal for the chassis to get a huge amount of scratches and scrapes?

[Information Man]

1 Bad STi

Here is the best tip for having a good working failsafe, DON'T USE NIMH batteris for your Rx, either use a proper 6v Rx pack or use alkaline batteries

a NIMH AA is only 1.2 volts x 4 = 4.8 volts
that is where most failsafes will shut down the car.

so switch to some good quality AA's Alkalines or buy yourself a Rx 6v NiMh flat pack

rckid11

the chassis will get scratches, but it has alot to do with yout ride height and the terrain your riding on, I run about 5mm off the ground and on a pretty clean parking lot and I get scratches, alos if your rear suspension is soft you may notice alot of scratches in the rear corners of the chassis, that will tell you , you may have to much body roll and a stiffer oil or spring may be needed.

as for tires I use Ellegi foams and have yet to have any problems with them.

:D

[Nightmare_au]

1 Bad STi, also with correct voltage (6v) packs your servos will operate so much better :)

4.8V is not nice :(

[1 Bad STi]

Thanks, I figured the 6v would run better but lack of funding because of a being a College Student held me back from getting a 6v pack. Thanks for the advice. Do you guys recommend some Rx packs? Thanks

[Information Man]

Get one you can afford, I buy the no name ones and they work fine, but I take care of my batteries so they tend to last, also if you buy cheaper Rx packs make sure to drain and re charge them with will prevent any one cell from dumping on you..

venom makes good one
and rd logics makes a good

both are good prices

you may also want to check out onlybatterypacks.com

hope that helps

:D

[Philly's Finest]

I get my own and my friends packs from onlybatteries on ebay. Good packs and none of us have ever had a problem with them.

Well guys I'm trying to wait until the full option comes out before I get a car. I think I'll wait another month until my birthday. Hopefully it will be out by then & someone else can buy it for me. he he he

[puribong]

hehehe why wait?? You will more likely to be satisfied with LD3 Pro version.. it's already well loaded... unless you want the best......

btw Ofna is also coming out with new gas touring car.. Hyper GP.

[1 Bad STi]

checked out onlybatteries.com...... found this, but it does not say what cells they use? Any good?

http://www.onlybatteries.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=11287.8

[Information Man]

1 Bad STi

I have been running this pack every weekend for over a year without any problems.

The Rx Pack I Run (http://www.onlybatteries.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=11285.8)

Here is a great over night charger for them to

The Charger (http://www.onlybatteries.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=11518.8)

They are using just generic cells, but so are some of the so called high end pack.

I just bought a few thinking they were junk, but they are reall good packs, you just have to take care of them. I built a simple battery drainer and I cycle my NiMh at least once a week to keep them running strong.

:D

[1 Bad STi]

is it better to run Nicd or Nimh with the RX pack?

[Information Man]

I don't think it would make any difference to the car, but it would really depend on your charger ( if you had one ) some people who run electric only have a charger to charge NiCad so therefore they would get a NiCad pack.

But if you are like me and run only nitro cars having a big expensive battery charger may not be in your budget so you use the overnight one, and if that is the case i would go NiMh you can abuse them a little more. What I mean by that is you can top up the charge before you go out to run withou causing any ill effects to the battery.

hope that helps

:D

[1 Bad STi]

Thanks for the perspective. For my charging needs its no problem because I have a Hobbico Accu-Cycle. Go ahead and check it out if you want

http://www.hobbico.com/chargers/hcap0260.html

I'll look into the battery situation and let you know what I ordered.

[spenzalii]

Just make sure if you run teh RTR , you get a hump pack (3x2). A flat pack won't fit in the box. Trust me, I tried. I ended up breaking and reconfiguring my flat pack. Now it works just fine.

Anybody know if Ofna's gold clutch springs are stiffer than the stock springs?

And for the chasis scratches, they will get them, for sure, so raise the ride height a bit and change the shock oil to something a bit stiffer to keep it from bottomig out so much

[rckid11]

Thanks for the info. What new engine would you suggest for the ld3.

[spenzalii]

Anything short of a .15fe! LOL

No really, any engine will do in the car. I have the OS CV-R .15 and it flies, and I believe there is a Fantom prowling around on teh board as well. Someone at my LHS had a MT12 in his and it has plenty of get-up-and-go. The clutch and flywheel are set up for a threaded crank, so you will need to order new stuff for a SG crank

[Nightmare_au]

Spenzalii,
I am running a flat pack in my LD3 Pro (same battery box as RTR) Maybe your battery pack brand was a little bigger? Or does the RTR fail-safe get in the way?

[spenzalii]

No. The Pro has the batteries strapped to the bottom of the chasis plate. In the RTR, teh battery is in an enclosed box with 2 dividers that will fit a hump pack. A flat pack will sit on top of the divisers, making it impossible to close the box

[puribong]

yeah looks like only Hump pack will go into LD3 RTR's battey box.

[Nightmare_au]

well my HN LD3 Pro fits both flat and hump packs fine in the enclosed battery box.

The deviders are only on the lid of the battery box on mine :D

[spenzalii]

I just went back and looked at the pics you had of your Pro. They must have made a running change between the two of them, because I know a flat won't fit in a RTR, but the box looks the same as yours

[Nightmare_au]

ok maybe we are confused :)
This is a pic of my radio tray (spare one)
http://www.serverdoc.com/personal/pics/ld3pro_batterybox.jpg
and the lid that goes on top has deviders but they are not long enough to stop a flat pack going in ;)

[Information Man]

I can run both a flat and hump pack in either my RTR or my PRO and both contain battery boxes ( liked pictured )
maybe there was a mold change mid way through the run :confused:

[1 Bad STi]

I won an auction today for 2 onlybatteries.com 6v packs 1100mah NIMH for $19. We'll see how they work.....

[1 Bad STi]

any of you guy use AOL instant messanger? If so whats your ID?
Me = Standardohyes

[1 Bad STi]

Have any of you guys encountered an underplate thin enough to run under a TC car? Made of Carbon Fiber, Lexan, etc.?

[PCC]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Anything short of a .15fe! LOL

No really, any engine will do in the car. I have the OS CV-R .15 and it flies, and I believe there is a Fantom prowling around on teh board as well. Someone at my LHS had a MT12 in his and it has plenty of get-up-and-go. The clutch and flywheel are set up for a threaded crank, so you will need to order new stuff for a SG crank How about a ported 21RG? My brother's running a 19/23T clutchbell...

[spenzalii]

Must be with the cover. I know the two dividers touched the battery and I could not close it with a stick pack. And I wasn't drinking that evening (or was I?:D )

[Grifter]

I think I would be the one with the Fantom.

I love it! It hauls and holds a Tune very well, what else could I ask for.

[spenzalii]

You COULD put a 21 in there, but yuo would need to Dremmel the chasis a bit to get it to fit properly, and then there's the issue with the exhaust header. A .12 header won't fit, and it needs that funky bend in it to go the right way off the chasis.

19/23 clutchbell? What engine is that with?

An underbody sheet? Why? To protect it from scratches?

[Information Man]

XXX Main makes chassis protection sheets, I doubt they have one for the LD3 but they probaly have one for the TC3 which will be a close match. They are kinda good and kinda bad, they don't really offer tons of protection, but they stop screws from falling out. Chassis' scratch and that is a part of being in this hobby, nothing last forever except the desire to run RC !!!

contact them at www.xxxmain.com for more info.

hope that helps





:D

[puribong]

Originally posted by Nightmare_au
ok maybe we are confused :)
This is a pic of my radio tray (spare one)
http://www.serverdoc.com/personal/pics/ld3pro_batterybox.jpg
and the lid that goes on top has deviders but they are not long enough to stop a flat pack going in ;)


that looks same as RTR battery box...... I guess flat pack goes in then...?

[spenzalii]

The issue isn't the box, it's the cover. The two dividers on mine hit the top of the battery pack, making it impossible to close. Go figure. Maybe mine is just wierd (or I was just careless that night) but I converted my pack to a hump pack and no more drama. Now if Nightmare can cram one in his, it should work for you. Just as long as you're not running alkalines, you should be fine:p

[puribong]

the distance between 2 divider on the cover looks little short for flat pack(?) ........ maybe or maybe not... I am confused....:)
hehe I don't know.. I will need to get a hump pack anyways so that way I can use it with my RC10GT too.

[Nightmare_au]

Well it does fit, maybe its designed so you can run hump or flat (and the deviders on lid keep the flat battery battey in place?)

I have my failsafe on top of the battery, in the middle, between the deviders.

Maybe some flat packs are a little thicker and may not fit.. dunno :confused:

If in doupt, get the hump :) lol

[Grifter]

Hey guys,
Well I got all the Parts to get my Car back on the Road.

Medial Tires
Drive Shaft
Bumper

I cant wait to test out the tires. I also got a HPI Camaro SS Body, finally!! I've wanted it since it came out and never had a 200mm Car. I was going to Mark the Body Post holes, but I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. I cant get the Body all the way down due to the Height of the Posts. Do you guys take off the Posts? Or just place it on until they come in contact with the Posts? I would think the Wheel Wells wouldnt line up that well if I did it the second way.

Thanks!

I also got a Set of Dynamite Hex Drivers....WOW! I used the Allen Keys to get out the Shaft last time, it took me almost an hour. I had the Shaft out and the new one in in about 15 minutes. It was awesome!

[PCC]

Originally posted by spenzalii
You COULD put a 21 in there, but yuo would need to Dremmel the chasis a bit to get it to fit properly, and then there's the issue with the exhaust header. A .12 header won't fit, and it needs that funky bend in it to go the right way off the chasis.

19/23 clutchbell? What engine is that with? The engine mounts are from a Nitro OB4. They're pullstart engine mounts so they're taller. The chassis had to be clearanced for these engine mounts to work but only a little. The flywheel is from the NTC3 for pullstart engines. The clutchbell is the one made for the HPI NRS4-3. The fuel nipple on the fuel tank had to be remounted on the rear side of the tank and my brother installed a L-shaped fuel nipple on it. The tank had to be drilled through to make this work and the original hole plugged. The original configuration for the exhaust system was the mating of a manifold from a buggy one-piece setup to the stock LD3 Pro pipe but it was determined that it was robbing too much power, even with the stinger drilled out. BTW, the manifold was mounted the wrong way and the pipe was pointing out over the receiver box. The new configuration will combine a standard buggy manifold with an aircraft pipe going straight back over the middle of the car. My brother tested this setup with a proper .21 pipe today and found that he had a lot more power available with this so the OFNA pipe idea was scrapped. The problem with the standard .21 pipe is that the pipe points a little bit forward.

Before I could set up the suspension on the car my brother wrecked it. One rear turnbuckle, one rear hub, one rear axle, broken! Before he crashed his car, the thing would light the tires at anything under 40MPH with a simple tap of the throttle! (it did not help that the suspension was not anywhere near where it needs to be for good handling.)

[stefan]

Here are some pics of my Pro.



http://webpages.charter.net/loewenfrau/Stefan%20Stuff/mtx_ld_2.JPG

http://webpages.charter.net/loewenfrau/Stefan%20Stuff/mtx_ld_3.JPG

[1 Bad STi]

nice :p

[puribong]

Stefan, is that full option LD3??
that carbon fiber decks look trick.....:)

[1 Bad STi]

If I decide to upgrade my motor I have a few faqs...I will be spending somewhere in the neighborhood of $150 @ the max amount. I want the most speed for that money and quality, so was thinking of OS all the way and want to keep the pull start because of less hassle. Suggestions please.

[1 Bad STi]

How are Fantom Motors as well?

[spenzalii]

Well let's see. If you go OS, spring for the CV-R, either .12 or /15, depending on what you can get away with legally. Both are rock solid and will give your LD3 a nice kick n the pants, and can be had for around $130 at Tower. If you do get the OS, be prepared to place 2 small washers under each of the screw holes

[stefan]

Originally posted by puribong
Stefan, is that full option LD3??
that carbon fiber decks look trick.....:)

I guess that's what the full option car will look like, but this is a pro with all the hop ups on it.

[1 Bad STi]

Originally posted by 1 Bad STi
How are Fantom Motors as well?

anyone?

[Onetrip]

Still considering the LD3 Pro over the RTR 2Sp for my first nitro
touring car. The pro comes with a Pipe, but does it come with
a header/manifold? if you use the Pipe that comes with the Pro
you have to use a rear exhaust engine right, do they make rear
exhaust engine with a pull start? or do you have to get a starter
box? Does the front one-way always have to be run on the car?
(i had a HPI RS4 Pro electric back in day and you could remove
the front one way pully depending on track) Also what kind of
goodies besiedes the carry bag do you get? Glow igniter,
Bottle etc? Any help would be apprecited, Ofna's web site isn't
too clear.
Thanks,
1T

[spenzalii]

OK back to the engine question. The washers go between the mount and the chasis. The pullstart is a bit longer and extends past the motor mounts, making it impossible to mount and mesh. While the washer method works, the downside is it makes it harder to use a bumpstart on teh unlikely event that the engine won't fire up, as the flywheel sits a bit higher. You could Dremel out some of the chasis, but I don't know how well that will do.

I have heard and seen good things about that Fantom, and would be a viable option to the OS. I think you gain a bit of power at the expense for tunability on the whole, but they're both plenty quick.

As far as the Pro, it depends where you get it. The version in the States is different from the version overseas. The car comes with the 1 piece pipe, so the header is part of it. And yes, it's rear exhaust. A rear exhause, small block, pull start engine is hard to come by these days. I think Collari made one, but I can't remember. The one way is a bit different on the LD3 than in your RS4. If memory serves, the RS4 had a one way pulley on the top shaft as well as one for the diff. Seeing this is a shaft drive car, no chance that's happening here. To swap the one way, you have to swap the diff. Once again, I'm not sure if the kit has both full diffs; I think it depends on where you get the car from. And you get the 2 box bag, glow ignighter, fuel bottle and something else that escapes my memore at the moment

[1 Bad STi]

Yet another faq.... Stiffer springs. I need some. What kind should I get?

[PCC]

Originally posted by Onetrip
The pro comes with a Pipe, but does it come with
a header/manifold? if you use the Pipe that comes with the Pro
you have to use a rear exhaust engine right, do they make rear
exhaust engine with a pull start? or do you have to get a starter
box? Does the front one-way always have to be run on the car?
(i had a HPI RS4 Pro electric back in day and you could remove
the front one way pully depending on track) Also what kind of
goodies besiedes the carry bag do you get? Glow igniter,
Bottle etc? Like spenzalii said, the Pro kit comes with the fuel bottle, ignitor, two-box bag, body, one-piece pipe setup, wheels and tires. It comes with both the front one-way diff and the front gear diff (the six gear model, too). I don't remember it coming with a failsafe, though.

On your Pro, it came with a pair of one-way pullies that allow you to fine-tune your drivetrain to allow you to drive the front balldiff or underdrive it using the two different one-way pullies. You also had the option to install the plastic pulley in place of the one-way pulley and have direct drive all around.

[Onetrip]

Dooh!!!
I'm in Southern Cali (Future land of the Ahhnold).
Thanks, yeah that's what i figured bout the Pro's Engine
requirements. I can get a Pro kit for 220 and a RTR 2sp
for 240 at my LHS. i'm on a budget i want to keep
costs down to around $300. but since the pro would require
getting a starter box. Might go for the RTR. Too bad cause i
really like building the kits. Can't seem to find a Pro Kit with
the Picco motor in it. Street prices round here pretty good,
proly cause ofna is close by. Nitrohouse 2 mi from my work,
they said i can will call stuff so parts wouldn't be a problem.

:cool:

Thanks for the info dudes!!
1T

[spenzalii]

220 for a Pro kit? Man that's good.

[spenzalii]

Here's some pics (I hope...)

[spenzalii]

And my baby...

[puribong]

I like that body.. Is that dragon sticker?

[spenzalii]

Nope. Parma mask with Duplicolor 'Chameleon' paint, green to purple. Too bad the pic didn't really show the change

[PCC]

Originally posted by Onetrip
Nitrohouse 2 mi from my work,
they said i can will call stuff so parts wouldn't be a problem. Getting to Nitrohouse is a bit tricky. When you get there you will think that you are going to OFNA. You go in to OFNA's front door, say "Hi" to the receptionist and tell her that you are going to Nitrohouse. She will tell you to turn left and go down the hall. At least that's the way it was when I went there earlier this year.

[puribong]

ic.. I might try that parma mask next time I paint my bodies..

PCC, so do you think nitrohouse and Ofna is related?

[spenzalii]

Here's another for good measure:

[Onetrip]

Getting to Nitrohouse is a bit tricky. When you get there you will think that you are going to OFNA. You go in to OFNA's front door, say "Hi" to the receptionist and tell her that you are going to Nitrohouse. She will tell you to turn left and go down the hall. At least that's the way it was when I went there earlier this year.

Thanks for the info. So will-calling parts is pretty hassle free?
that's what the dude on the phone said but he sounded like
he was 10yrs old, so not too sure. The closeest LHS to my
house doesn't carry a lot of LD3 parts and when I get it i like
to get it going as soon as i break/wear someing.

[PCC]

Originally posted by puribong
PCC, so do you think nitrohouse and Ofna is related? I sure think so. When I was there I asked about that and they said that by law there could be no relationship between Nitrohouse and OFNA but that Nitrohouse was owned by OFNA's owner's cousin or something like that. The reason that Nitrohouse always has OFNA parts available is that they're right there. Not sure if they pull directly from OFNA's stock or if they have their own separate stock (the guy disappeared into the back to get my part but I could not tell if it was a stockroom or OFNA).

The reason that Nitrohouse carries so much Mugen is that Mugen is like two miles from OFNA/Nitrohouse.

Here's a link to pictures of my brother's LD3 with the 21RG. (http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/pcheuk@pacbell.net/lst?.dir=/RC+Cars&.src=ph&.view=)

[PCC]

I just figured out that the link does not work.

http://home.pacbell.net/pcheuk/LD22.JPG

[PCC]

I have more pictures but I think the forum administrators will have a cow if I posted them all.

BTW, that engine is an OS 21RG with an OS RZR head on it.

[Nightmare_au]

nice pics, thats where my exhaust needs to be :) lol..

Well, I need some REALLY GOOD repair tips (see pics lol) or maybe I should just stick with my tough 1/8 buggy :D

On to the damage photos!
http://serverdoc.com/personal/pics/ld3damage/ld3_damage1.jpg http://serverdoc.com/personal/pics/ld3damage/ld3_damage2.jpg
http://serverdoc.com/personal/pics/ld3damage/ld3_damage3.jpg http://serverdoc.com/personal/pics/ld3damage/ld3_damage4.jpg

Drive shaft was also bent where fuel tank hit it (after exhaust hit fuel tank). I've bent it back, not sure how good yet..

[PCC]

Here's another pic.
http://home.pacbell.net/pcheuk/LD18.JPG

[dmrcflyr2]

Despite all of the issues I had with the kit the end result turned out nice. I have not run it yet. The next step is engine break-in.

[dmrcflyr2]

Another view.

[dmrcflyr2]

Last one.

[spenzalii]

Well, good to see the kit finally went together. I hope the runing is better than the building experience. It really is a nice ride.

PCC- I got the link to work the other day. Very nice work! I'd love to slap a .21 in a 1/10 scale, but I may just wait until CEN has their 3 speed ready and get that instead. A big block is a viable option for me, though...

Nightmare: what in the world did you hit? That pipe and tank are toast. Better call Nitrohouse. I don't think the freeze trick will work on that pipe.

Now to my stuff: My local track is holding their first gas regional race on the 28th. So I'm trying to get my car ready. I ordered up the AE starter box (at $65, you can't beat it) and will cut the pin off the crank to convert it to a bumpstart. I ordered a Futaba servo (can't remember which one, but it has 120+oz Torque) as well. I woll probably get the aluminum rack to take the play out of the steering. Any other suggestions? If any of you have a shot of how to put the sway bars on, could you post it? I ordered mine but don't have a clue how to install them.

[Nightmare_au]

spenzalii, well I cliped someone who a marshal put back on track, spin, then the fastest car on track hits me.. owell.. :)

lucky I got a full kit as spares, but I didnt want to use tank/exhaust so soon!! :( :(

[Information Man]

Nightmare_au

That must have been a sight to see when you 2 hit !!

to bad about the parts :(

spares are those things you hate to use when you have to and want to use when you don't :D

hope to see you up and running soon

[PCC]

Originally posted by spenzalii
PCC- I got the link to work the other day. Very nice work! I'd love to slap a .21 in a 1/10 scale, but I may just wait until CEN has their 3 speed ready and get that instead. A big block is a viable optio