OFNA LD-3 Nitro Touring

[1 Bad STi]

I may sound like a rookie, I didnt build my car..... where is the One-way located?

[1 Bad STi]

Originally posted by 1 Bad STi
Thanks for the input. Ill try it tonight after some studying.

did a little tuning.. running like a champ..

[Nightmare_au]

Everything ok? great :)

The one way is where 1st gear sits on the shaft. :) If you spin your gears one way will be free, other way will drive your car.

[spenzalii]

Here's a question: can you just replace the one way bearing or does the whole thing (holder and all) need to be replaced?

[Information Man]

I can't recall 100% but I think you can just change the one-way

:)

[spenzalii]

Well, I have to take the car down anyway to swap some gears. Does the one way press into the housing?

[Nightmare_au]

The one-way is pressed into the housing, an I would say very tight. If it was not tight the bearing and housing would slip/rotate.

[spenzalii]

Great. Now I wonder if it's worth just replacing the bearing or replacing the whole housing

[Nightmare_au]

id be going the housing option. Its only aluminium so pressing a bearing out of that will be fun :(

What kind of bearing do you have? the good or bad type?

[spenzalii]

I haven't really looked at it, but I think it's bad. I hear the same shifting in and out of gear in a turn, and for some reason it doesn't have that much punch off the line, either. This after I switched to some stronget springs. I haven't tried lightening the shoes yet, though

[Nightmare_au]

Mine was more a reving free sound, though it may be mistaken for going into first gear

See what type you have, the bad time is pathetic, 4 very small springs compared to the good time that has, 6 or 8 (forget now) large springs.

Or maybe I just had bad luck with it :)

[spenzalii]

I'll check it tonight. I'm still getting ready for the big race the 28th. Looking at it, the 2 speed always looked as if didn't spin true, like one of the bearings was crooked. The car definately shifts gears, but it fluctuales coming into and out of a turn, like it can't decide what gear it wants to be in. Since I'll probably switch the gears anyway (considering a 6 tooth spread, so i'll have a 16/22 and a 43/37 setup), so it will be out anyway.

[Nightmare_au]

Let me know how the new gearing goes :)

I have noticed the new one spins a lot more true, I think anyway.. sometimes your mind plays games but yes I believe it does spin a lot more true. The old one used to wobble.

[spenzalii]

Which is exactly what mine does! Did you get the whole housing or just the bearing?

[Nightmare_au]

I got the full thing... make sure its the good type :)

[fishstix]

I got my ld3 rtr the other day. I'm going to start locktite tomorrow. Is there anything else I need to do before I start to run?? thanks in advance.

[1 Bad STi]

:D have been running my car every single day. runnin like a damn champion. This redhead engine had been treating me awesome.

[1 Bad STi]

:D lD3
:rolleyes: ntc3

[Information Man]

Congrats !! you bought yourself a fine kit. I have 2 PRO's and have no problems what so ever.

but here are some things to do and some things to look out for later.

#1 check all screws ( your doing that )

#2 make sure the servo saver screw is not touching the shaft

#3 cut some vent holes in the body, to allow for better cooling to the engine.

#4 replace the glowplug with a OS #8

#5 if keeping the stock engine replace the air filter with a motor saver brand to allow for better flow.

#6 check the shocks to make sure they are in good working order, with no leaks and/or busted c-clips

#7 read this forum and the instructions and have fun !!

#8 get some simple set-up tools ( RPM Camber gauge ) to help with set-up if youi want you can buy a full line of setup tools ( hudy, integy ) ask your LHS

Future things

#1 replace rubber tires ( poo ) with some decent foams

#2 upgrade to the PRO rear arms ( LS-28 )

#3 replace the steering bushings with bearings ( ask your LHS and bring the bushing to match )

#4 maybe replace pull start engine ( later )

but most of all have fun, tret the car well anbd it will perform well

I have probaly missed a few things and I kept things simple if you have any questions or concerns please post them here, this is a great forum and people here are great and will help out alot !!


:)

[1 Bad STi]

what air filter do you recommend for stock engine?

[thunderbt3]

Dude, 1 Bad STi, you did not kick the s%$# outta my NTC3, our cars were pretty close matched, except for when you flipped and scraped up your head :cool:. What kind of RX batteries are u selling and i think im gonna take up on the tires offer. The only thing that took me out at the end was when the little drive pin came loose and i went from 4WD to 2WD :p

[Luckyman4]

Stupid Me story ... and a "harumph" to Ofna!

Finally got around to painting my LD3 Pro body, the body went fine but the wing messed me up. Okay, the body & wing come with the nice plastic film covering. On the body the film is on the outside, where it's supposed to be. But on the wing the covering film is on the bottom of the wing and not the top. Stupid me ... I should have taken the film off and painted the bottom so that the paint would show through the lexan just like it does on the main body. Did I do that? NO! Without thinking it through I painted the side without the covering film ... ie the top of the wing. Seemed logical at the moment ... you don't paint the side with the plastic on it, do you? Well, surprise! Without the lexan "coating" over the paint, which gives it that nice shiny look, the paint (pactra Bright Red) looks totally FLAT, no gloss. My Pro now has two very different colors of red ... a small note in the instructions that the wing film should be removed and that side painted would have been nice ... I can't dis Ofna too much because I'm experienced enough to have caught that (maybe, lol), but it shouldn't have needed to have been "caught" in the first place. Of course, the wing is not available separately. :rolleyes:

[1 Bad STi]

Well Dave, you found me. I enjoy talking ****. :D :p . Its all fun and games though. Our cars are pretty evenly matched besides durability. "Cough Cough". IM sure I'll break something in time. If you want one of my RX packs... $10 cash. Give me a call and we can also talk about the tires.

[1 Bad STi]

I wouldn't have flipped If i had not have seen that battery laying on the ground 50yds away.:o

[1 Bad STi]

Originally posted by thunderbt3
Dude, 1 Bad STi, you did not kick the s%$# outta my NTC3, our cars were pretty close matched, except for when you flipped and scraped up your head :cool:. What kind of RX batteries are u selling and i think im gonna take up on the tires offer. The only thing that took me out at the end was when the little drive pin came loose and i went from 4WD to 2WD :p

the new rumble of the LD3 is quietly awaiting...

[puribong]

Originally posted by fishstix
I got my ld3 rtr the other day. I'm going to start locktite tomorrow. Is there anything else I need to do before I start to run?? thanks in advance.

I also have ld3 rtr.
there isn't much you need to do beside threadlock.
you will want to have spare batteries for your dry cell glow igniter since they die quick and take your time as you break-in the engine.
also you might need to adjust throttle setting little bit. my car was little off the right setting.

stock tires doesn't have traction so if you enjoy sliding then you will have fun.

most importantly, be ready to have fun.

[spenzalii]

Yep, the car is pretty well ready to rock right out the box. The tires, if yuo want to race, are pretty much a must, in my opinion. Be wary of the engine. As many people have had good success with theirs as have had problems. For the record, the majority here have had good time with the engine. But when you are ready to step to something more powerful, it can handle it!

[puribong]

I am wondering if outdrives on Ld3 RTR's rear diff is same size both left and right. I tried to fit my OB4's front CVA to replace Ld3's rear dogbone.
One side takes ob4's front CVA perfectly but other side, CVA was little short. Seems like outdrive is different length?:confused:

[thunderbt3]

Whattup STi. i run associated's airfilter i think its made by some airplane company. its a dual stage foam element thats pretty easy to maintain. air has to go thru the black foam first and it filters out big particles like dirt and stuff then it goes thru yellow foam which is much finer than the black foam. it filters out all the little things. the foam is housed in a rubber boot and i just slide it onto the carb opening. ive ran it in my little bro's gt and my ntc3 and ill probalby get it for any other car in the future. its very easy to maintain, all you gotta do is take the foam out and wash it with soap and water and let em dry and a few drops of oil and ur set. Ill show ya it up close if ya really wanna see it

-ragin azn

ps. sorry dudes, im an associated fan

[1 Bad STi]

hey dave, theirs something called an Team Associated Forum, maybe you should post there, with your fellow sisters.:D :D
I dont recall what your filter looks like..

[Nightmare_au]

hmm what about the airfilter that comes with the Pro? (The RTR one looks like crap :) )
The pro one seems ok to me, but im no filter expert...

Originally posted by Information Man
Congrats !! you bought yourself a fine kit. I have 2 PRO's and have no problems what so ever.

but here are some things to do and some things to look out for later.
#5 if keeping the stock engine replace the air filter with a motor saver brand to allow for better flow.


:)

[Information Man]

The PRO airfilter looks like a black fuzzy icecream cone, it only offers one layer for dirt protection and the filter element cannot be removed from the filter body for washing. so you have to remove the entire filter and wash the entire filter. It is also a picco sized filter ( looks like a .21 carb opening ) and will not fit non-picco type engines. So it is pretty useless all and all

hence the motosaver

:)

[Nightmare_au]

Yeah I remove the whoe thing for washing, the put in plastic bag to oil it.

I thought the opening was smaller then my .21 filters for my 1/8 buggy, it fits my sirio .12 perfect but I just checked and there is not much difference. Ill try my .21 motorsaver filter on it :) now that will be some airflow.. lol..

My Buggy one looks like this (add dirt though)
http://www.ozshops.com/shops/radio/uploads/des_files/mos//mos151690.jpg
Pic from RMS - Lots of filter pics etc. (http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?1.IL&mt=na&re=h&nt=dynamic&ta=cat.brand-568&ip={mt=da&it=n&ap=radio&co=ENTRYBRAND&us=1064087864-13&kn=cat.man_gallery2&**)


If a .21 filter fits my sirio how much smaller would a .12 motor filter be? would it fit? maybe I should get a .21 filter?

[spenzalii]

pb: Not sure on the CVD's. I always thought they were the same size.

After Izabel blew through the area, I haven't had electricity at my apartment in 3 days! Man that blows. Good thing my parents don't live too far away. At least I had my RC to work on. And what a pain that was...

I ordered up the servo, backplate and Associated starter box in preparation for the big race. Hacking the pin off the crank to get rid of the pullstart was the easy part. It turns out that the starter that Tower sent me was USED! Unfortunately, it didn't dawn on me until after I hacked the pullstart and swapped the plugs for Astroflight plugs. The Tamiya plugs were melted, there was no adapter for 2 packs like there should have been, and the motor didn't work. As soon as power went to it, all I got was smoke. Taking the box apart, I found the brush fell off inside the motor! Taking the closed bell 775 motor apart only made it worse, as the endbell fell apart in my hand. Now I'm really at the point of no return, because my box won't start, I have no pullstart, I can't send it back to Tower in time to race on Sunday AND there's a huricane shutting down the whole DC area! So I frantically rush my LHS to see if they have anything to work. After 20 minutes of no hope in site, my salesperson offers to rent an older Hyper 7 starter box that someone lest up there. Since it was kind of light, I wanted to know what motor was in it. Sure enough, the same motor was inside! So he sold me the motor for $28. Great, right? Not quite. The pinion was bigger on the Hyper box than the AE box. Both pinions were pressed on and NOBODY this side of Texas had a pinion puller. I called every hobby shop in a 50 mile radius and nothing. Hardware stores couldn't help, electrical supply stores had noada, and now I'm running out of time. So, I whipped out the trusty DRemel and hacked the end off the bad motor, banged the good (but plastic) piniom within an inch of its life to get the rest of the pin out, cut the bigger (metal) pinion off the good motor, tapped the good pinion on the good motor and put everything back together. So after 72 hours of fretting, it now works, and my OS fires to life, although I have to adjust the idle speed now. At least I can race.

Moral(s) of the story: I only paid $64 for the box that should have been ready to run and ended up paying $95 total. Anything that looks like a really good deal may not be! Second, LOOK AT EVERYTHING before you go cutting anything!

[spenzalii]

Oh yeah, I almost forgot in my rant: I got the aluminum servo saver. It's really smooth! However, what is the aluminum bar with the setscrews for? Anybody have a clue?

[thunderbt3]

i give ya advice and thats what i get for it? hehe :p

[Nightmare_au]

Insane, just measured my carb on sirio .12, shes 16mm :) bigger then my force .21 engine (I think my .21 hyper 8 is 16mm also).

Now to decide what motor saver filter to get. A 1/8 buggy one would only get in the way I think, though would be a long time between cleans :D

[1 Bad STi]

Im not sure who is using the Onlybatteries.com pack, but on the only batteries NIMH 6v 1100mah Hump Pack, how many runs can you get out of if?

[thunderbt3]

it says it can be recharged 1000 times on the only batteries website

[1 Bad STi]

runs on one charge?

[1 Bad STi]

Originally posted by 1 Bad STi
Im not sure who is using the Onlybatteries.com pack, but on the only batteries NIMH 6v 1100mah Hump Pack, how many runs can you get out of if?

should have clarified..

[Nightmare_au]

That will depend on what type of servo's you have and where you are driving. The higher performance servo's chew more then say stock servo's.

[Onetrip]

Well if finally decided I'm gonna get the Pro kit this week,
and an OS engine once i build it (gonna take a while cause
i like to work slowly and carefully). I need to know what type of
motor will go in the kit. What shaft type of motor do i need to get?
I know .12 and .15 fit but will .18 fit? i know the kit's has rear
exhaust and i don't want to get a starter box (yet) will this fit? :

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/146002.asp

Also slide or rotary? Any help would be appreciated.
THX
1T

[Information Man]

any .12, .15 or .18 should fit.

but it should be pilot (long) shaft.

An OS pull start may not fit, due to the low motor mouns that come with the pro kit.

[Buggy Master]

does the ld3 have any similar problems as the ntc3? such as, the fuel tank vibrating from the chassis causing a lean running condition with the engine. how about stripping the shock towers off the diff case. any other good or bad points?

[romuald31]

Hello from France,
I receive my new car. It's call T2M (the name of the Hong-nor/Ofna) importator in France.
It's a LD3 full options (carbon, aluminium, centax, .......).
I raced sunday.
I qualified 17th on 19th. Very bad because I have to tune the car.
I won the semi final with 5 laps lead and the final, I finished second in pro class with my car just finished built the morning.
very good car, very reliable trnsmission, easy to set....
The best set-up is when using front differential and foam tyres....
I will take some pics and give the link later.
I havn't any problems.
It's a product anybody can buy because it' a very good race car.

[spenzalii]

BM: Most of the problems on the NTC3 have been excised on the LD3. The pressure tap is at the top, which cuts down on the fuel foaming. (Another good fix, which I used, was placing a sliver of fuel tubing over the tank mounting screws) Because of the design of the shock towers, I haven't had a problem with the screws falling out or stripping, either. Overall, it's a nice car that can win in the right hands.


The points series is over. I came in 4th place! I'll have the trophy pic and some from the race later this week. GO OFNA!

[Onetrip]

what motor and class did you run?
I did electric Touring cars about 6 yrs ago, and i'm looking
to get the LD3 to evantually race nitro. Never got past novice,
hella fun though. I plan to learn the car for a few months before
attempting to race. the track i'm planning to race has a pretty
intimidating racing scene so i'd bet the begginer and novice
dudes are just sandbaggers. anyway cool to hear you did good
with an LD3.

1T

[spenzalii]

Well, they pretty much had everyone with a 1/10 sedan run the same class at the same time. There weren't that many entries as the weeks wore on, since most people ran 1/8 scale and there are at least 3 other shops running races during the weekend, spreading out the potential racers between the various shops/clubs. So, my little CV-R ended up running against NovaRossi's, Picco's, Sirios, etc. My clutch still seems a little off (it seemed slow off the line and out the corner), and I was underpowered, but once the car kicked into second (which looked like somebody punted the car in the back), they had to realy run me down to catch me! I got beat out ultimately by a regional champ with a modded TC3 with a RS12 (who could turn a faster lap than some of the 1/8 drivers!). But when I ran, I ended up coming in second almost every time, since my OS would keep running while the others couldn't keep going. One kid had more money than anything else:MTX3, R1 radio, MR12, full Hudy setup board, and couldn't complte 10 laps any time I raced him. He came in second in the points though (he ran almost every race, I only ran 3 or 4)

[Information Man]

1 Bad STi

I can run all day with a onlybatteries pack, they are very good for the money, and don't require any special maintenance.

I turn off my car in between runs, but in total I was getting about 4-5 hours of run time with a pack.

I cycle my batteries after use and it seems to keep them strong all the time !!

[romuald31]

hello from france,
here's some pics of my ld3 pro full options

http://groups.msn.com/tg10ros/pictures

This chassis is very good...

[Nightmare_au]

That french version is very nice :) heheh I have not seen a full option sold as a kit yet. Hmm ony hop-up it does not seem to have, floating rear..

Has anyone got the floating rear and do you like it? (LS33 i think is part number)

[Buggy Master]

wow, the full options ld3 looks awsome. anyone know price and when it will be available here?

[1 Bad STi]

I had an accident. My car flipped and hit hard enough to brake the rear shock tower and I lost a ball joint that hold the shock on the lower A-arm.
Where can I find these parts to fix my car?? Which mail-order or does anyone have any parts I could purchase.
Thanks, ben

[1 Bad STi]

alright, I found the parts on Nitro Warehouse. Does anyone know if n.warehouse rapes peeps on shipping and how long does it usualy take to get the parts?

[Information Man]

Phone them and ask

#1 how do they ship ( should be courier or w/tracking number )

#2 how much would shipping be ( to your area )
if they ship courier you can find out the amount by going to the shipping calculator on the courier's site.

they cannot control the amount of time it takes to ship.
But you will be better prepared if you seek the answers yourself

also be sure to write down the name of the person you spoke to
being that NH is right beside OFNA I am pretty sure any parts you want are in stock !!

[1 Bad STi]

INfo Man- Ya I could be capable of that, but I wanted to know if anyone had past experience because I called just after the closed. I wanted to get the 411 about the place before I bought something from them.

[spenzalii]

I've ordered from Nitrohouse on numerous occasions. They always seem to have the parts in stock, even when the car first came out. Now, depending on what shipping option you chose and where you are, that may be an expense. I'm in DC, so shipping by land takes close to a week. If I really need part, I just go 3 day UPS and it comes to my door. The rates are about standard for UPS, so I suppose thats that. Did your LHS have the shock tower? Now that I think about it, I have an extra set in my box (they come 2 to a pack) if you really need them. Now for the ball joint, I'm sure your LHS should be able to help you there. Just make sure the arm isn't cracked or that the hole isn't stripped out.

[1 Bad STi]

Do you have an extra shock tower I could purchase off you? Please let me know. Thanks

[spenzalii]

Give me your address and I'll ship it to you...

[1 Bad STi]

spenzalii you have a pm

[1 Bad STi]

Did you get my PMs? I think I might be having some server difficulty

[spenzalii]

Sorry. I left work. I think I got it, let me see...

[romuald31]

hello from france,
I made a big modification on my T2M full options pro car.
I made a special battery pack and I fix it as low as possible and recentring it to the middle of the chassis.
As you can see I use 4.8V because with all the nitro 200mm car are so light that a servo can work without loosing a lot of speed and torque..

here's my new pics

http://groups.msn.com/tg10ros/t2m.msnw?Page=1

[ld3driver]

Hello from France too,

what Romuald doesn't say, it's that he is a very lucky man...
:D

Indeed, his full option car is not yet sold in France by T2M.

There's something strange : in France the car will be soon distributed both by Hobby Tech and by T2M...

My LD3 comes from Hobby Tech, with no options ... :p

So, Romuald, how did you get this full option car ?

Second question : I notice on the picture there's no spring with the gaz command, so, how does it work when coming back at neutral position ? :rolleyes:

third : which local hobby store for parts or options, in France ?

Bye...

[fishstix]

Later today I will be doing the break-in for my car (ld3 rtr version). It will be in the mid to high 50's for the weather. Also a lhs only had dynamite medium glow plugs. So here are the questions....

1. What do I need to do on the settings because of the cooler weather??

2. Is the dynamite plug a good one??

[spenzalii]

The Dynamite plug should be fine, and if memory serves, a slightly rich setting will be needed. But, if you are breaking it in, you will be running rich to begin with, and gradually leaning it out from there.

Qualifying for the East Coast championship that my club is running did not go well for me yesterday. I missed all 3 qualifyers, either because the car didn't want to start or I broke something. I broke more parts on that car yesterday than I did since I bought it. So, once I got home, I readjusted the 2 speed, put the Pro style arms on since I broke 3 regular arms (and man, are they thicker than the originals! I have to order up some more this week), reset my gear mesh (I had a really bad smack into the wall that shifted the motor! No other damage, though) and adjusted my starter box to get better contact with the flywheel. The engine is the only thing that puzzled me. It acted as if it were running rich all day, but I never touched the needles from last week, and temps weren't much different from then, either. It had fuel, it had fire. It just didn't want to start when racetime came. Of course, it would fire up when practice started, but then either it was pointless or something broke! Heck, I even got rammed in the back by a 950 on the backstraight! That tore the hingepin out from the rear arm mount and sent the dogbone flying. Fortunately, I found them and got it all back together. Well, final Qualifying starts in 45 minutes, so I'm getting back out there. Hope I do better today!

[spenzalii]

Well, I'm back. And the race is done. I must say, the LD3 did it's thing out there. In a field full of TC3s, MTX3s and 705s, I was the only Ofna driver. I won the B main and bumped into the A main. Unfortunately, my engine woes returned and I missed the forst 10 minutes of the 30 minute main. But, once I got the car started, that little OS held its own in the infield and on the straight. If I was in front of them when I hit second, they couldn't run me down on a 250+ straight unless they had a turbo motor or heavily modded motor. Even the Sirio couldn't get me. Strange, the car doesn't look and sound like it's moving that fast, but when it's beside someone else, it does it's thing. I was most proud of my driving. As the day went on, I got better. In a field where the fast guys were running 18s, I managed to cut a 21, and I'm just starting to race. I'll post the setup when I look over the car later. Unfortunately, my run was ended when I was clipped from behind. The front right and rear left arms got pulled out the arm holders! The only major loss was the rear dogbone, which dissapeared. What a way to spend your birthhday;)

Oh year, word to the wise: Speedmind foams are some of the nicest things running. BUT, if it gets warm on the track, try to run 40 shore all around. I had 37 in the back and all I did was traction roll. The funniest thing I did was come off the sweeper ON TWO WHEELS! No joke. I'm just glad it dropped on the wheels, not the head.

GO OS, GO OFNA!!

[1 Bad STi]

Spenzalii-
Congrads. hopefully in the future their will be more LD3's prowling the tracks and hopefully mine next year. which OS powerplant are you running? Is their any OS powerplant I can run w/ a pull start and be competitive. Lack of funds and storage space at school I probably will not have a box starter. Whats the word on that Shock Tower for me. I owe ya one for that. Thanks.

[spenzalii]

Thanks STi. I'll try to get the shock towers out today (I didn't go to work) if not tomorrow for sure. I was running a .15 CV-RX with the pullstart removed. As was mentioned earlier, the pullstart is bigger than most, causing the base of it to hit the chasis. Therefore, you need some sort of spacer to raise the engine a bit. I used 2 small washers under each screw between the chasis and the engine mount and it worked fine, You could also put a flat piece of aluminum between the engine and the mount if you wanted, but at the time, I didn't feel like doing that (it was 2:30 in the morning, and my wife wanted me to come to bed) Tower still has them for cheap, too.

As an afterthought on the race, I thing my gearing was a little off. I was running a 17/22 clutch bell, and once it hit second, I was still picking up speed at the end of the 250+ backstraight. That would explain why it looked like the car gained legs as it got further along and why it was harder to catch me once I got going (that and why I would get beat off the line almost every time). I wonder if going back to a 16/21 would have worked. The other thing was the sound of the engine. With the NOvas and Mugens, you hear them winding into the high RPMs. With the CVR, it was in the mid RPMs, so it didn't sound like it was going anywhere. But when something was near it and second hit, it was over.

[stefan]

IMHO, the LD3 is way overgeared for average racetracks.

Comparison with the MTX3:

Both cars have roughly the same internal gear ratio (2.5/2.53).

The stock spur gears on the MTX3 are 47/43, the biggest ones available for the LD3 are 44/40.

I run my MTX 3 on our good sized track with a 15/19; 48/42 gearing.

I have tried the 40/44 ; 15/19 on the LD3 but the car is veru sluggish with a beasty engine.

My MTX3 winds out shortly before I have to let off for the sweeper.

At the same point, the LD3 is still gaining speed and that's on 57 mm tires.

The car needs larger spur gears!

[spenzalii]

HOw are you running a 48/42 combo on a 15/19? wouldn't the mesh be screwed up?

Your observations seem to concur with my race. That would explain why my CVR sounded like it wasn't winding out and would start to really rock near the end of the straight. MAybe I should have gone back to the 16/21 (I don't have a 15 pinion or my 38 spur anymore)

[stefan]

On the Mugen it works fine, the teeth on the smaller pinions are longer so the overall diameter of a 16 and a 15 totth pinion are the same

[1 Bad STi]

Does anyone run a swaybar on there car? Details Please.

[Nightmare_au]

Yeah, see this post (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1072842#post1072842) on page nine of this thread..

[spenzalii]

So, taking a lok at that pic, it looks like the hinge pins that are included go thru the front arm holder? If so, I'll have to drill a hole outof them. Is that right? It realy is hard to see...

[Nightmare_au]

Yes, My arm holders (front and rear) have a hole all the way through. I didnt know the RTR was different. Dont forget to put the grub screw in the arm to keep the pins in place :)

I take it the RTR pins are captured by the arm holders? My Pins I can pull straight out (once I undo the 3mm grub screw on the arms)

[1 Bad STi]

didnt see the sway bar on the ofna hop-ups page nor nitrohouse, where can it be purchased, or have you guys made your own?

[Nightmare_au]

They are on the manufacturer's website :)
http://www.hongnor.com/

LD3 Pro has plastic holders, (part # LS03)
http://www.ozshops.com/shops/hongnor/uploads/des_files/products/hnls03.jpg

But you can get a aluminium version (Part # LS30)
http://www.ozshops.com/shops/hongnor/uploads/des_files/products/hnls30.jpg

These are Hong-Nor (the manufacturer) part numbers, I have no idea what part numbers OFNA are going to use for them.

[1 Bad STi]

check out the verbal warefare going on in the TC3 vs. LD3 forum. Wow, I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[puribong]

yeah there are just too many LD3 haters out there..... hehe.
but I don't really care b/c I love my LD3.

[Nightmare_au]

Good :) makes it that much more fun when they are behind you :)

[spenzalii]

Hmm, haven't seen the thread yet. I better find it and jump into the fray...

STi, Nitrohouse does sell the sway bar kit. And yep, the arms are capped by the holders. The kit does come with the grub screws and the longet hinge pins, so I guess I'll just have to drill that hole. I'll get the part number in a bit

[1 Bad STi]

Yes, I did see it on there. I need to get a new FRONT BUMPER TOP PLATE because the stock one cracked from a dusty parking lot incident. Spenzalii, would you happend to have your stock one laying around that I could pay you shipping for?? But, I suppose all you guys are runnin the Graphite/Aluminum one? :confused:

[1 Bad STi]

Hey Guys, will the Fantom FR12 pull start side exhaust drop right into my car?

[spenzalii]

Unfortunately, I'm still using the factory one, so I don't have a spare of that one. The FR12 should be a plug and play affair, as long as it's the threaded crank. The SG crank version will need a new flywheel and clutch nut (which will run around $5)

[stefan]

Hi guys,

due to some very unfortunate circumstances I will have to sell my Ofna LD 3 full option version.
The car has EVERY available hop up part on it and more.
I got 3 diffs, all 6 gears, a front one -way, a solid axle that will fit front or rear.
the car also comes with the Centax cutch and every available pinion gear for it.
It also has a brand new Associated dual chamber pipe for rear exhaust.
If interested, I can throw in a modified Mugen MT 12 engine that is in excellent shape.
I don't even wanna add up how much I got in the car or I'll start crying.

As i said, I have to sell the car, so I'm open to reasonable offers.
I will have more pictures and a parts list either tonight or tomorrow.

stefan.guenther@charter.net



http://webpages.charter.net/loewenfrau/Stefan%20Stuff/mtx_ld_2.JPG

[spenzalii]

Man that's got to hurt. What's a good base number you're looking for? I'm sure nobody wants to lowball you

[stefan]

I'd say 325 w/o the engine and 400 including the engine.

Steering servo and receiver will not be included.

[1 Bad STi]

has anyone had any fuel leakage problems w/ stock tank? Just wondering, it appears mine is leaking. What other kind of tank can I swap in there? thanks

[Nightmare_au]

Is it only leaking when FULL? if so too much pressure. Use more length for the pressure line, also you can put more pressure on the lid by putting some material under the spring legs.

[1 Bad STi]

Which tube do I extend "Carb to Tank" or "Tank to Exhaust" , Ill get some springs and try that.

[Nightmare_au]

The Exhaust to tank one...
When I first ran my car ended up with fuel everywhere, but only when tank was full.. Was because I was creating that much pressure it was blowing the lid open :eek:

I now have a loop in both..

[spenzalii]

Well, I got my ride fixed up again. Needed to replace the arm holder front and rear and the dogbone. I at least got the rear straight. Since I want to get the swaybars on the front and will have to drill a hole in the block, I haven't bothered the front end yet, but at least it will run. I also redid my gearing. Since I was still accelerating at the back of the straight, I'm going to try my 16/21 bell with a 39/44 spur. That should give me 6.07 1st gear and 5.22 2nd. I wanted 2nd to be in the 4's, but I haven't figured how to get that to happen with the gears they have available. I hope I don't loose too much top end, but I should have more acceleration to beat my XXX-S

I have to play 'Intro to RC' for a few people Sunday, so I hope I give a good show...

[fishstix]

I'm having trouble with the fail safe. I turn my radio on then my car. I set the fail safe....(push the button and hold it for the light) and it still won't let me move the throttle or brake.:mad:

[puribong]

yeah... give them a good show so they get hooked into R/C and you know make them buy LD3.. hehe...

I haven't touched my R/C cars for long time. I broke my thumb like 2 weeks ago and it will take about 5 weeks to heal according to doctor. hopefully, the weather doesn't get too cold by that time.

[spenzalii]

Man, that's gotta hurt. Nitro season is winding down out here, I think by the end of the month, everyone may be finished with it and heading inside. I know one of the shops has it's last 2 races for their points series the next 2 weeks, but next Sunday I have to schmooze with another married couple with my wife (gggrrrrrrr).

The show off went pretty well. I think I have him and his son hooked already. I let them drive them both and they were having too much fun. I have to take my XR3 apart though; the steering wheel broke and it spun the shaft on the inside of the radio. I've done it before, but that just meant there was one less car to run. I let the father drive the LD3. It scared him to death. I had installed th new gear set (man I wish I had that setup on when I raced; I went to a 16/21 and a 39/44 which woke the engine up quite a bit. That OS screams now!), so the car had some serious pickup. When the car hit second, ne screached and quickly hit the brakes! That car was moving! So now he's trying to budget for two electric cars until he gets his skills (and nerve) up for a nitro.

[stefan]

Now try 40/44 and 15/19...

[spenzalii]

I really wanted to do 15/20 and 39/44 to keep my 5 tooth spread, but the shop only carried the steel pinions which only go down to a 16, so I have to order the aluminum set. That got that OS into the higher rpms, and it took off like a scalded cat. The car was still picking up speed at the end of the makeshift straight I set up for the demo, but it wasn't as bad. Now I may need those softer springs back on to reduce wheelspin on takeoff. If I don't roll the throttle, it will light up the foams.

BTW, the wife still hasn't let go of the funds, so if it has to go, it has to go...

[1 Bad STi]

hate to say it, but the Ld-3 might get sold. The lack of driving area is horrible around here. I love the car, but I might let it go for a Ofna 9.5. If any of you guys are interested I think Ill be posting it up later in the FOR SALE section or someone could flip on me and make me keep it :p Thanks

[spenzalii]

OK, this is sad. DESERTERS!!!! There's got to be a place to run the car. But, if it has to go, it has to go...

[1 Bad STi]

cant afford to keep the car and get another..... putting together my new custom pc for school CUT funds bigtime. :(

[spenzalii]

Why is everyone on this custom PC kick? And whi is the RC the first thing to go? At least if you get the buggy it won't be as bad. But it would take a whole lot for me to sell mine...

[1 Bad STi]

My Pc, Real car and gf is what I revolve around!!!!!!!!

[spenzalii]

At least your priorities are straight!

Hey, if it's got to go, it's got to go. You can always get another...

[1 Bad STi]

when the college semester come around its hard to get anything! I'd like very much to keep it, we'll see as X-mas break comes around.....

[dmrcflyr2]

I have to say that I LOVE my LD3. The only items that I have broken so far have been two of the 8mm pivot balls. No spectacular crash or anything, just a slight bump into the track wall. Bumps so slight you would have never thought it would break anything. I have broken these on two separate occasions. After the first one broke I ordered to packages of 4 plus upper and lower arms.

Has anyone else broken any of these? They LOOK durable. In both instances the threaded portion sheared off flush with the arm. I am looking for some titanium replacements. Of course the next weakest link if the arm.

My car is powered by an OS 15 CV-R and has plenty of power for the short track I run on. I was thinking about putting an XTM 18 in it, but I really do not have the need for more power.

[spenzalii]

I run a similar setup in mine. What kind of gearing do you have on there (16/21 and 39/44, my car screams)?

I will say I haven't had the pivots break. Upper and Lower arm, steering knuckle, yes, but not the pivots. I put the Pro style arms on and haven't had a problem since; that's some much stronger plastic. I may order the nylon arms from Hong Kong over the winter for even more durability.

[dmrcflyr2]

Are you running a side exhaust engine? If so, what header and pipe do you have? I have the stock gearing for the Pro kit, 16/20 and 42/38, but I have purchased 43/39 spur gears.

I am going to try to get some close up pictures of my front upper arms. They look like they have stress cracks already.

I destroyed my tuned pipe, knocked the stinger off. I tried to JB weld it but that did not hold.

What other spare parts have you found that you need? A-arms, steering knuckles, anything else?

[spenzalii]

I originally had the stock Ofna header and ripple pipe. The stinger got bent, but the old freezer trick worked well enough to keep the pipe in play. Unfortunately, the header stripped out. So, I recently picked up the Dynamite one piece exhaust. It works pretty well, but is a bit loud. The gears will make a difference. On my CV-R, the car never sounded like it got into the power band, low to mid RPM, and by time it hit the higher RPMs, the corner was in my face. I noticed a HUGE difference with the 39/44 setup.

As for the spare parts, I ordered whatever I thought would break, and so far that did me good. As mentioned, the lower arm broke (I had stripped one of the holes at the shock), the upper arm on the opposite side broke just after the pivot ball, and the steering knuckle broke after a nice whack on full lock in a corner. I also bent the drive shaft some time ago when I flew 4 feet over the corner dot and barrel rolled into a curb. I had ordered all those parts just after I boughtthe car just in case something broke, and during that race it was a very good thing! Otherwise that should be it: arms & knuckles, front and rear and you can't go wrong. Oh yeah, I managed to wear my brake pads out so I upgraded to the carbon pads. Really good investment

[dmrcflyr2]

Yeah, CV-R just doesn't sound quite right. I think I need to tweak the low end a bit. I destroyed my stinger and bent my header after sliding into the wall. I have the Associated TC3 header and pipe. I managed to bend the header back a bit, it was pinching the fuel line. I just bought a ripple pipe from Dynamite I beleive. I am going to attempt to 'soft' mount the stinger end so it has some flexibility if hit. Hopefully that will preserve it. I am also just thinking about replacing the CV-R with either a 12-TR, or a Fantom rear exhaust. That would give me an excuse to buy another engine. I love engines!

I have my shift point setup to shift at about 1.5 seconds after pulling full power. The track I run on only has about 75 feet of straightaway. So I really do not need more power than the CV-R produces.

[spenzalii]

Only 75 feet? Oh yeah, you have WAY to much gear in there. You may want to go with the 40/44 if you can find them. Then again, you may encounter wheelspin, so try the 39/43 first. But you definately have more acceleration available. In fact, from the sound of it you may not even be hitting full power...
Yeah, CV-R just doesn't sound quite right. I think I need to tweak the low end a bit
Is that with the RPMs or how it's running? Do you mean the gearing or the low speed needle?

If I'm not mistaken, the .15 CVR produces almost the same power as a standard .12 TR. It's just not race legal. Now the .12TR-T may just outrun it. Same as the Fantom. I have no clue what I want to put in mine next. I may just wait until the new O'Donnell breaks cover and see how that runs. As it stands, I'll probably get another one and have that race legal and let my RTR be the street stormer (I'm thinking BB 15 or any new .18 they have coming out...)

[dmrcflyr2]

When I say it doesn't sound right, i guess it doens't sound clean coming up on the pipe. Like I said I think I can lean my low end a bit, but the pinch test shows it being about right. After about 1 second of pinching the line at idle the rpm's begin to increase. I do not know how sensitive the CV-R is too needle valve settings. Perhaps I have not found the sweet spot yet.

Yes, our track is short. I can only stay on full power for about 4-5 seconds max before the next turn. I'll see if I can post a picture of the track in the next few days. Even our off road track, Minnreg which is where the electric Worlds is currently taking place, is what I would consider a short track. I am gearing down my T-maxx for that track.

[spenzalii]

Well, you're in better shape with yours than with mine. I have a feeling my low end is still too rich. It sounds like it's bogging when I first start it at the track. When it's running it's fine, necer overheats (in fact, underheats, sometimes in the 190-220 range). However, if I shut it down, it's a 50/50 chance it won't start up without some serious coaxing from the starter box and swapping plugs. And the body is coated with oil after running. And on the pinch test, it may take 2-4 seconds before the motor revs up. But for the most part, I am quite pleased with my little OS.

75 feet is a shot track. Sounds almost like the track behind one of my hobby shops. At the club I ran with this summer, the back straight was around 250 feet. Then again, they did run 1/8 scale too, so they needed the extra room

[dmrcflyr2]

Spenz

You mentioned something in an earlier post about your drive shaft rubbing on your fuel tank. I noticed that mine does the same. I just took the shaft out but it is not bent or warped. I have ordered another along with some other parts. I think I will stick with the CV-R and just play with gearing to take advantage of our track.

Sounds like you could lean both your top and low end a bit if you are running under 200 degrees. I have mine set for between 230 and 250 depending on the humidity.

Here is a picture of mine.

[spenzalii]

Looks nice. I'm glad to see you stuck with it instead of selling it for a RS4 3 SS.

The new driveshaft even seems to rub just slightly. Then again, it could be my imagination. I haven't had a problem with is, and it's not causing a problem, so that's that. I'll get on the needles the next time I run it

[dmrcflyr2]

Oh I have an RS4 3 type SS sitting in the box, just not sure what to do with it now. I usually keep all of my reciepts for my purchases, but I cannot find this one. I was going to send it back. Oh well.

[spenzalii]

That's funny. You could still put the car together and give it a spin, or use it as a backup car...

[AEcrazyT3]

What do you guys think about the stock ofna force 12? Im new to Nitro and I am having a the worst time trying to tune this motor. I have read all the manuals I could on this motor and I read a good artical from Paris Racing. The OFNA Manual says to leave the low speed needle alone.
Anyhow I was trying to figure this motor out today I finally got it up to a decent speed but when I took the temp it was at 350... Maybe a little more... I know this is to hot.. What can I do to get the temp down without losing all the speed?
Is this Motor just normally a pain to tune or should I just keep trying? Thanks...

[dmrcflyr2]

AE

I personally have no experience with that particular engine, but I have run nitro engines for over 15 years and here is what I do.

Initial break-in for car motor
1. first tank:get engine running and allow it to get to at least 200 degrees and stay there throughout the tank. Now you may need to SLIGHTLY lean the HIGH speed needle to obtain this or run the car around about mid throttle to maintain this temp. Never touch the low end needle until after about 5 tanks of fuel. You are not trying to acheive a good idle at this point.

2. First tank empty. Make SURE piston is not at TDC and allow engine to cool completely.

3. Next tank: get engine running and allow engine to get about 10-15 degrees warmer.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 until engine is running about 230-250.

5. After engine has about 5-7 tanks of fuel through it and it begins to sound good on the high end, begin to set the low end. Allow the engine to get to operating temp and do the pinch test on the fuel line. While engine is idling, albeit high, pinch the fuel line. If the engine rpms increase immediately and the engine dies, the low end is too lean. If the engine rpms increase after about 1 second, the low end is perfect. Any longer before an increase in rpm and the low end is too rich.

I know this does not answer your original question, but this method has worked for me. I have never blown an engine, nor have I ever had one that I could not tune. Unfortunately I have not heard any good things about the Ofna Force 12. We would need more detail on your specific problems to further diagnos your problem.

What fuel, just it start easily, how long does it run before it acts up, what do the pinch test results tell you, what are your needle valve settings, etc. All details of the symptoms are required for accurate online troubleshooting.

There are only a few things that can cause a NEW engine to operate poorly.

1. Bad or wrong type of glow plug.
2. wrong or bad fuel.
3. air leak: base of carb, head, glow plug, backplate, fuel lines (MOST COMMON)
4. wrong needle valve settings

[spenzalii]

The Force 12 is known for air leaks. First, make sure you have the right plug: McCoy MC59 or OS #8 should do the trick. Next, make sure you seal the backplate and the carm with RTV. That should do the trick.

[AEcrazyT3]

Well I am running the mc59 plugs with two washers.
Im not sure what RTV is?
How can I prevent air leaks from occuring in the fuel lines?
As far as my back plate... Well thats a story all its own.. The force came with a power start system that pretty much immeadiately broke down. So I tore off the whole setup and this is what it looks like now. Could this be an issue? http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=143781

[dmrcflyr2]

AE,

You should never use two glow plug washers. That will change the engine compression ratio and move the glow element further away from TDC on the engine. Not a good combination for running a glow engine.

An air leak in a fuel line is a simple matter of replacing the line. This could result from a crash or the line being pinched.

It sounds like you need to get your hands on every article you can find with regards to how to properly operate and maintain a glow engine OR find someone at your local track or hobby shop to help you. Without any more specific details of your problems there is nothing I can do for you.

Good luck

[Brad in Perth]

At the Hong Nor site it says that the LD3 Pro comes with the foam tyres, 3mm chassis and the centax style cluch. But at the OFNA site it says it comes with the 2.7mm chassis, rubber tyres and the 3 shoe clutch. Correct me if I am wrong but did OFNA change the product cause I seem remember the two being the same a little while back? If so, does this meen the cars distributed by OFNA will be different to the ones by Hong Nor?

Links:
Hong Nor LD3 Pro (http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?application=hongnor)

OFNA LD3 Pro (http://www.ofna.com/ld3-pro.html)

Brad

[AEcrazyT3]

Update..... :D Finally got that dumb redhead to work today! I was running temps around 250 to 260 But it almost ran a whole qual without @!#$ing out on me. I say almost because a nice little "love" tap from behind sent my car right into a curb and promply killed it.... After that the engine was completely off tune and would not idle right. The manual for the red head says to use two washer with a mc coy 59... I guess the crash was enough to loosen the glow plug and tweek the washers. After I removed one the car ran like a dream... A hot dream, but a dream non the less....
Thanks for the help on this dmrcflyr2 and spenzalii....

Im going to be doing some sealing this week to insure no air leaks....:)

[Nightmare_au]

Brad in Perth, Yes they are different. To compete with other cars on the market in the USA, OFNA stripped the "Pro" version down a little. One thing they do get that is better - 2 diffs and one-way.

[spenzalii]

That's about the long and short of it, buddy. There was no way to come in at a price point to compete with the TC3 in the states with all the extra equipment. At least you can get the kit with the 2 speed and Ofna/Picco engine and polished pipe and carry box for close to the same price as the TC3 kit, depending on where you go. You basically swap the diffs for the clutch, and in most cases, the diffs are a little more important. The foam tires would have been nice, but once again, look at the TC3. It has rubbers on it too. Wherever you get the car, you get a great car and a great deal.

AEcrazyT3, no problem. That's what we're here for...

[Luckyman4]

Originally posted by dmrcflyr2
AE,

You should never use two glow plug washers. That will change the engine compression ratio and move the glow element further away from TDC on the engine. Not a good combination for running a glow engine.

Maybe the latest 'redheads' are different from the one I got two years ago, but my Force .12 needed two washers with the McCoy 59 plug to get the proper clearance in the combustion chamber ... other plugs I don't know about, but the MC59 needs two washers for use with the Force .12

[Onetrip]

Does anyone know which of the 1st two boxes in this link:

http://www.nitrohouse.com/starter_boxes1.htm

work better with the LD3 Pro kit w/ the Picco motor?
I want to buy a box that will work with an 1/8 scale Ofna buggy
(probly Hyper-7) too that I'm planning on buying early next year?
The stock box that comes with the H-7 PBSs is supposed to suck,
so I figurue I should buy a good box for both cars. Just ordered
the Pro kit so need to start looking for a starter. Probably take
me a while to build the kit due to other obligations, so not in a
huge hurry. Thanks for any info...
1T

[Nightmare_au]

I have a starter box like the top one. Mines a thunder tiger brand though but by the looks of it they are the same starterbox just with some small changes (both have 750 motors etc). photo here (http://www.ehobbies.com/rc-ttr-2404.html)

I use it for my 1/8 buggy and LD3. Just remember, the LD3 you must put on starterbox "backwards" (so engine is rotated the correct way).

[spenzalii]

Yup, same as the AE box that I bought. You can use it for whatever, you just have to readjust the position of the starter motor. Works great. The Ofna, TT and AE are quite similar, although the Ofna looks as if it has an on/off switch. The only reason I got the AE version is that Tower has them for $65

[Onetrip]

What about this one? will it work w/ LD3 & 1/8 Bugs?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXU4&P=7

Looks like the 2nd one down from my 1st link.
Found a pretty good deal on a used one.
THX,
1T

[AEcrazyT3]

Okay guys.... What is the biggest engine that you have heard of in an LD3?

[spenzalii]

Well, somewhere on this thread someone shoehorned a .21 in their LD3, but it took a bit of work, since the .12/.15 header won't fit and the block is much larger. The pipe will have to route out the back, and I would definately upgrade to the 6 tooth diff with the CNC gears. So it can be done.

Personally, I may just wait for the OS .18, the Picco mid block .21 or just get an Sirio .15 or really strong racing .12

[dmrcflyr2]

If you really want to do that, not sure why you would, you can drop in either the XTM 18, or Wasp 18, with little or no modifications. I considered putting my XTM 18 in my LD3 but I run on a short track so I would not be able to see the advantage of more power. My OS CV-R 15 is more than adequate. If however you run in a straight line for long distances either of the two engines above are inexpensive alternatives.

I can personally vouch for the XTM engine in one word, WOW! Easy starting, incredible power. It cries for a two speed. I have it in my XTM Nitro excellerator and it goes close to 50 mph and seems like is wants a second gear badly. Right now Hobby People has the XTM for $89. My second will be arriving tomorrow. I ordered that and the T-Maxx exhaust conversion kit. At that price you cannot go wrong.

[spenzalii]

Just for fun, why not swap the engine in the LD3 for a bit and see how it runs to back up that claim?

[dmrcflyr2]

I am thinking about it. I really do not want to bust up my LD3. I was trying to devise a method to install a 2-speed in a 1/10 scale stadium truck. Like I said I run on a short track and there really aren't any large parking lots for me to use. If I were to lose control at 60mph there may not be much left. I estimate it runs close to 50 mph with the CV-R installed. I am just getting the LD3 tweaked to the track. In fact, I'll try to post a couple of pictures of my new body tonight.

Perhaps the XTM will find a home in the as yet unbuilt Type 3 SS.

[dmrcflyr2]

Here are a couple of pictures of my newest body for the LD3. The original is getting pretty beat. I call this "Using up 1/2 empty cans of paint".

[dmrcflyr2]

One more. How do you attach more than one picture in a single post?

[spenzalii]

Interesting, to say the least. What is that, a Monte Carlo?

[1 Bad STi]

fellas, its been a while, drove the LD3 yesterday, loving this cold air.

[AEcrazyT3]

Ya know oddly enough I really like that body dmrcflyr2... I just panted one yesterday... Red and white... Ya right.. It ended up Pink and red.... Im such a noob with paint...

[dmrcflyr2]

Yeah, thats the Monte Carlo. Doesn't really look like one with that funky paint job. Bodies are like fuel, you can't run without them and you go through them quickly. I am not spending a whole lot of time on intricate paint jobs unless it is just for show anymore.

[spenzalii]

Paint shmaint. One of these days, I'm just goint to slap the stickers on the body and call it a day, no paint at all. Or at the very least, get some transparent paint or that smoke tine in a can, lay down 2 light coats to look even and run like that.

How's the runnin, STi? I thought you were getting rid of it?

[1 Bad STi]

Spen- alternate funding came up, now I have an Ultra Mbx Pro along with my LD3.

[spenzalii]

Glad to see you could keep the car. I know you aren't dissapointed

[fishstix]

Originally posted by dmrcflyr2
Here are a couple of pictures of my newest body for the LD3. The original is getting pretty beat. I call this "Using up 1/2 empty cans of paint".



I love the paint job. I would like to do that with the sKOOL BUS. What colors should I paint first the dark or light??

[dmrcflyr2]

fishstix,

I am sure there are documented methods for which to apply first, I have read them somewhere. I am no artist and to tell you the truth I just started spraying. I did think about which should go down first but I applied the darker first and then went to the lighter. That may actually be the opposite way that it should be done. Sorry I could not be more helpful.

[fishstix]

that is okay..I think it is one of the best looking paint jobs.

[dmrcflyr2]

fishstix,

Thank you. I appreciate the compliment. I found this article for you.Nitro Body Basics (http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/body_paint.asp)

Here is another. Basics of Masking (http://www.rc411.com/index2.html)

[spenzalii]

Well, looks like I'm going to have to load up the camera and take pipcs of the bods I have now: the Eclipse I ran at the race (which is still holding up nicely; it's amazing what happend when you start driving better) and the Audi I may rin next year.

[sebtarta]

Hello LD3 fellows. I just got my LD3 Pro, and I must add that the car looks very good. The plastics are great, and the weight distribution is good too. We will see what happens now on the track down here in Argentina.
I'll keep you posted.
Good luck, :)

[spenzalii]

Cool beans and welcome to the thread. We should be able to help you with most of your problems you may come up with. Where did you order yuor car from?

[AEcrazyT3]

I was thinking about putting the Graphite shock towers on. Do you guys know how the parts for the shock towers compaire in wieght to the stock plastic stuff? I know the Graphite is pretty light but how about all that shock mount... The pictures at nitro house look pretty beefy..
Thanks

[sebtarta]

I guy here in Argie land brings them. He also has all the spare parts and all. In fact I was in a dilema before as I had to choose between a Serpent and this one. I had a serpent before and never had a beltless car before except for the off-road 1/8th. So I went for this one, which seems to be a very nice car. tomorrow I'll spend the hole day at the track testing the car, so we will see how it works. Finished with it today but still have to finish the body wich I'll do tomorrow at the track.
I will keep you posted.
Good luck, :)

[spenzalii]

The shock mount is a combination carbon fiber/aluminum setup, which I hope to pick up during the offseason. It's actually cheaper to have them imported from overseas...

I hope the car does well for you sebtara. Did it come with an engine?

[sebtarta]

Hey Spen, no I bought the LD3 Pro, and installed my X12 Rody engine.
Came back from the track today, and man that car goes. Its so easy to drive, where you turn it truns, when you correct the car it corrects itself.
Then tuning the car is amazing, one little change here and there, and the car handles completely different. I am happy :D

Now, does anyone know what i s the difference if you install a combo of 0-1.5 in the front and 1.5-1.5 at the back do? How does it work, what makes the car do if you play around with the hight of the suspension arm.

Good luck, :)

[Grifter]

Hey guys!

Havent posted for awhile, my Fantom .15 needs a new Carb and it's been raining. Glad to see you guys still enjoying yours!

I have a question though: Is the LD3 a litle different size wise then any other Toruing Car. I got the HPI Camaro SS body and, besides the fact that I screwed up the Body Post Holes!!!!, the Body doesnt seem like it would fit right anyway. The front wheel seems like it would, but the back just doesnt seem like it would line up. The back tires dont line up to the rear wheel well.

Have you guys had any problems like this?

Thanks!

[spenzalii]

Hey, grift. Good to see you're still around.

I happen to have a Camaro boddy laying around. I'll check it out and see. MOST bodies will fit, but there are a few that are a bit funnt depending on what chasis you put it on. It may not be perfect, but it should be close.

[dmrcflyr2]

I just put a Monte Carlo body on my LD3 and I had to modify my front posts and cut holes in the hood to clear the shock mounts. it was not too big of a deal. I also had to cut a new front bumper that was shaped like the front of the body.

[Grifter]

Ok, thanks guys. I cant see why it wouldnt fit, but who knows.

Thanks again!

[Grifter]

I finally got my LD3 running. Went to the LHS and got a Fantom Composite Carb. It's running like a champ now.

I mounted the Camaro SS Body. The reason why it didnt look like it will fit is b/c I messed up the Body post holes so badly. I never really mounted the body, but when I did I could see that it should fit....if I didnt screw it up!!!

[spenzalii]

Well, I buzzed the car around for what may be the final time this season. I will miss it. I realized that my header is bent, keeping me from accessing the LSN on the carb, which is a bit of a pain. Oh well, I may get another during the off season. I need to swap receivers for my FM gun, and will probably option it out during the winter. Now to figure out what motor and body to put in for next year.

[Grifter]

Sorry to hear that spenzalii. Look into the Fantom Line, my .15 is nasty, and I hear the .12 is awesome too. Then again there's always faster motors, I dont know how competitive the Racing is. But for the Money they Rip!

I have a couple more questions:
Is there any Carbon Fiber options for the LD3 yet? Like an Upper Deck and Shock Towers? I thought I saw them on the Pro Edition, or whatever it's called.

Also, how do you set the failsafe. I breezed through the Manual and I cant find any instructions. When the Radio is turned off, it pulls the Carb out instead of making the Car Brake.

Thanks!

[Nightmare_au]

Fantoms cost too much :) a MTX-3 driver is moving from fantom to a (I think) nova he said because he cant keep up with my el-cheapo sirio .12 :)

But, if your racing pull start class with no HP limit the fantom is the go for sure.

[spenzalii]

Yep, you can get the carbon fiber/aluminum shock towers, radio plate and side brace. Nitrohouse has them, but you could order them from Hong Kong for less, if you want to wait. I'll try to remember how to set the failsafe and let you know.

Or, you could just read the manual...:p

[spenzalii]

And I'm considering running a strong .12 next year. Probably won't get the NS3, but I may spring and get a modded Sirio .12. Even though it's $230 (Murnam Mod, used by B. Baker himself), I have all winter to save for it, so it won't be too bad come spring. Then again, that O'donnell .12 may be here, and early word is that's the ticket to have.

[Nightmare_au]

I just got the stock Sirio .12 TRP Pro (umm $130?) and im happy with it. The M.Collari Modified Sirio would of been like $210...

Im thinking about getting a STS RS3 also............ see how they go..

[spenzalii]

So many decisions, so much time before next race season (around March, depending on the weater)

[sebtarta]

A question, does anyone know what is the difference with the arm holders. ie. 0, 1.5 and 2
I know that its the hieght of the arm from the chassis, but what is the difference in handling of the car?
Good luck, :)

[Terry]

I am going to be buying my LD3 pro tommorow and wanted to know a couple of things.
1, will it accept a regular 2over3 nimh receiver pack?
2, What gearing do you recomend for a reall short track,100 x 50
3, How is the ofna picco engine that comes with it?
4, Any suggestions when bilding it up?
Thanks in advance!

[Nightmare_au]

Yes, both hump packs and flat packs will fit..

[spenzalii]

I think the stock kit comes with a 16/20 clutch bell, which is a pretty good start point. I would take the spurs up to 40/44 if you could to get a bit more acceleration. I hear the Picco is a nice engine, especially with the RE pipe. Just pay attention to how yuo shim the diffs and you should be fine

sebtera, I'm looking for a good answer on the arm holders. I know it affects the handling/steering, but I'm trying to figure out exactly how. We're not ignoring you!

[Nightmare_au]

hows this sound...

----cut----
Anti-squat describes the angle of the rear hinge-pins relative to the horizontal plane. Its purpose is to make the car squat less when accelerating. (Squatting is when the rear of the car drops down when the car accelerates)
More anti-squat will give more 'driving traction': there will be more pressure on the rear tires as you accelerate, especially the first few meters. At the same time, it will give more on-power steering, because the car isn't squatting much. The disadvantage is that the car has an increased tendency to become unstable entering corners, especially in the rear. Reducing the anti-squat angle has the opposite effect: a lot less on power steering, and more rear traction when the car isn't accelerating as much anymore. The car will also be a lot more stable entering corners. It also affects the car's ability to handle bumps: more anti-squat will cause the car to bounce more when accelerating through bumps, but it will increase the car's ability to absorb the bumps when coasting. Reducing the anti-squat does the opposite: it improves the car's ability to soak up the bumps under power, but reduces it while coasting.
----cut----


More at: http://users.pandora.be/elvo/

Originally posted by sebtarta
A question, does anyone know what is the difference with the arm holders. ie. 0, 1.5 and 2
I know that its the hieght of the arm from the chassis, but what is the difference in handling of the car?
Good luck, :)

[sebtarta]

Ah thanx for the answer. Now all comes clear. No wonder I had very little steering, that means that I had to much of the anti-squat. time to go an wrench on the car.
I believe that the best call would be 0° in front for both arm holders and for the back would be 0° and 1.5° with the suspension arm forwards.
I´ll keep yuou posted with this. time to go out and try the car.
Good luck, :)

[Nightmare_au]

ive got 0/0 all around.. Im running the alloy arm holders but the cool thing with them is the pin goes in a ball first then in to the holder so with spacers (washers) I can still adjust the angle :)

Let us know how you go with your settings :)

[Grifter]

Just finished up a great bash with my LD3.

I went to my school's parking lot and played around. There was so much room, it was awesome!

I finally got to see what it can do, it was sweet. The thing is insane, it's so fast, and handles very well too. Towards the end of my session I noticed it was sounding funny, it had a distinct burble to the exhaust, I knew something was up but it was still running. Then it stalled, so I took a look at it, nothing noticable, so I took off the body and started it up again, the Fantom had no problem coming back to life. Well, I took it out for another 30 seconds or so, and then I noticed it, the header was coming off!!! Hahaha, I was running with an open header, it was so loud, it sounded awesome, but I knew it wasnt good for the engine(then again I'm assuming it's not, is it?) so I shut it off. I only have one Header screw, but it's all good. I want to get the Fantom Pipe so badly.

Sorry for the long post.

[spenzalii]

Get some 3x30 screws, some nuts and some locktite ASAP. This will lock the header down. As it stands, mine rattled out so mantimes the header got stripped! That's why I ended up with the Dynamite 1 piece (side exhaust) pipe

[Grifter]

I found a Screw that was the same one as the other Header Screw. I put Loctite on it and screwed it in, perfect fit. So it should be ok, I'll just check it more often.

[Grifter]

When do you guys retire your cars for the winter, or do you at all?

I always thought it wasnt good to run your car in the cold. But then again, a lot of the guys with Monster Trucks run them in the snow.

[spenzalii]

You may still want the nuts for extra insurance. Af far as nunning in the cold, there are two major problems:getting the engine up to a good temperature (onten running slightly lean or using a shorter cooling head). The second is keeping the driver warm!

[AEcrazyT3]

The best solution to running in the winter time is move to Hawaii! We run all year long!

[Grifter]

Thanks guys.

Yeah, I'm still going to try and get some nuts also.

[1 Bad STi]

Where to find Motor Mount screws (the ones that go through the engine itself), i tried menards. No luck.... P.S. for my MBX but they are the same as the my ld3's

[Nsxshogun]

Im gonna get a ld3 in a few days probally and i wanted to know a few things like top speed, compatablity with Tc3 parts and is this car competitive out of the box.



ps: im lokking at the RTR verion with the electric start

[spenzalii]

Short Answer: Competetive, yes, but run the engine in teh stock class
Top SPeed: 43-48, depending on tuning and downwind, but you will need a lot of track to get there
Compatible with the TC3: not too much, honestly. Parts support has picked up at most LHS', so you may not have a problem finding what you broke.

[1 Bad STi]

nsxshogun- you have a PM

[R3VoLuTiOn]

wow... this car sounds great. wheres the cheapest place to buy the rtr 2spd failsafe version.(i dont mind elect start, no elect start) and how fast does it go:D

[spenzalii]

I've seen prices from $270 to $299. Check Nitrohouse, Ace or Ultimate Hobbies (but you have to give them a call)

[1 Bad STi]

r3evolution - you have a PM

[romuald31]

rear floating body post

[Grifter]

Wow, that's one sweet body post.

I really have to get some pics of my LD3.

R3volution: I knew you'd come to the right side.;)

[sebtarta]

Man that rear floating body post is sweet :D, where can I get one? I need one urgent as next season we are only racing lola bodies.
Well the car has performed amazing, and I finally had to cut 1cm off from the header in order to have the my rody perform at its best. The car is handling great, and nor matter how the tires are it just keeps going. I'll post later my settings, as I have to go and dig out the my paper from the tool box and dont feel like moving now. :p
But please let me know where I can get the floating body post, thanx.
Good luck, :)

[Nightmare_au]

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk has them listed :) (the floating rear...)

[Nsxshogun]

I took yalls advice and brought a Ld-3 its pretty quick and handles ok cause i still got the stock tires on it. I wanted to know What are the best hop-ups to gwt to start racing. tires i know i want some more gears but what else.

[sebtarta]

Hey in www.nitrohouse.com they practically have every hop up and parts. they even have the floating rear body posts.

NSX, for hop ups, mainly are tires and suspension springs. then try and see you you can find out a good gear ratio for your track and you are all set. In terms of hopups, I rather first try to learn how the car handles, get to know it and if you feel that you need something really bad then get it. Just my $.02

Good luck, :)

[Nsxshogun]

Thanks i didnt really mean hop-ups persay just something to get competitive with.

[spenzalii]

Definately tires and springs. Try 40 shore all the way around for foams just to start. If the rear is too loose, drop to a 37. With the redhead motor, the gearing is just fine. If you get a stronger motor, change the 2nd gear ratio a bit. Stock gearing is 16/20 on the bell and 42/38, if I'm not mistaken. With my CV-R, I went with a 5 tooth spread at 16/21 on the bell and 44/39 on the spur, and it gets out like a scalded cat. In no particular order, here's what I'd get

Tires (obviously)
Shock oil (50-60 weight)
Shock spring kit
carbon brake pads (trust me, they are worth it!)
'Pro' style arm kit. Once you break any of the arms, get this upgrade and be happy!
diff oil & 6 gear diffs (if yo don't mind taking the diffs apart. It will help in the long run, but isn't a 'must have' thing)
Engine and gears. At some point, you will want to swap that Force 12. Then and only then would I worry about gearing

[1 Bad STi]

Follow what Spenzalii says....
I have just used 50wt Trinity Oil and Jaco Nitro Shoes 40 shore front @ 26mm and 37 shore rear @ 30mm. Handles very well. Picking up springs can help out a lot as well.

[Nsxshogun]

thanks i asked about gears because the track close to me is very small. Im goin to take it to the track 2marrow with the setup you guys told me. thanks

[Nightmare_au]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Stock gearing is 16/20 on the bell and 42/38, if I'm not mistaken. With my CV-R, I went with a 5 tooth spread at 16/21 on the bell and 44/39 on the spur, and it gets out like a scalded cat.

Hmm, 2.625/1.9 Vs 2.75/1.85.. me like that gearing :D

How fast are the aluminium gears wearing out? im thinking of going to the metal ones as my alloy ones are getting chewed faster then id like...

[factry-team]

hey nightmare its team-RTR from ozryderz, i did kno fu posted in this forum:)

[Nightmare_au]

Dude, I think im everywhere ;)

[spenzalii]

Hmm, 2.625/1.9 Vs 2.75/1.85.. me like that gearing

It should work to 6.875 1st gear and 4.64 2nd gear if my math is correct. Scalded cat, dog!

[Nsxshogun]

im looking for a new motor but i dont want to spend over bout 150 i dont care if its p/s or non p/s but if im gonna need a starter box i dont really want to go over 150.

[AEcrazyT3]

I got an OS TR and ive never been happier... Of course I am pretty new to nitro and this is only my second engine... But It was very easy for me to get up and running and tuned... and keeps me competitive at the track... Good luck

[Nsxshogun]

which one out of these

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNA3&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM6&P=7

is the best

[spenzalii]

Depends on where you run and whether they allow turbo plug engines. All things being equal and if you run-what-u-brung, go for the TR-T. You may have problems finding a turbo plug, depending on where you are, so I'd order a few of them, too. Otherwise, the TR will serve you nicely

[Nsxshogun]

i was trying to be cheap and not buy tires and stuff intill i got a new engine and i ran it today and i turned hard and fliped like 3 times but the cars ok i lost a wheel nut but found a new one.

What type of tires should i useee cause the stock ones are falling a part i have cracks and chunks missin from em

[AEcrazyT3]

Well that really depends on the weather where you are from. Im in Hawaii so I am pretty much running hard rubber tires (36-40 shore)
I was using some Hard foam tires for quite some time just to play with.. They lasted me "FOREVER" on my electric xxx-s....

[Nsxshogun]

I was running in a real bumpy parkin lot. But im in Maryland and we have ok temps. Right now its about 50-70s and 80-90 summers im just looking for someting to bash around in for right now.

[spenzalii]

Where, pray tell, are you in MD? 'Cause here in Upper Marlboro, it's around 40 today!

Locally, foams are the hot ticket. For racing, something in a 40 shore all around will work, maybe even 37 in the rear if things warm up. Try a set of Speedmind tires, Fast Foams or Nitro Shoes, depending on surface. If you're anywhere near Doug's Hobby, just ask Bill or Jim what they recommend

[Nsxshogun]

yea im in clinton ill pm u when i get back in the house and dougs is the hs that i goto. Yea i know bill and Jim well right now im lookin for some tires to bash around in. I may try some proline gumbys and the tires that they have do any body have any suggestions.

[spenzalii]

Well, if you're just going for fun, I do like the Pro-Line V-Rage rubbers, or a nice pair of slicks, either Take-Offs or Sorex. Check with them for what compound. You will get better traction out of foams, but less life the softer they go. If you go that route, try some 45 shore if they have them.

[I_Like_F150s]

I picked up a LD3 2-speed RTR from Nitrohouse this past weekend for $225. Can't wait till it gets here!!

[spenzalii]

Nice. Cheaper than when I bought mine the first week they were out! While you're waiting, get some tires and get ready to rip!

[I_Like_F150s]

The had tires for $8 a pair, so I got 10 pair!! :D

[Nsxshogun]

Your definitly gonna need them. Some Rims to. Cause i just finished up running around my nieborhood and thier falling apart big time one rim is so bad i acnt even drive straght. It weaves to the left a little. the tires are comming off and everything so definitly friday i want to get to the lhs for some runnin gear.

[I_Like_F150s]

Sorry if my last post was misleading. The tires that Nitrohouse had on sale last Sunday were the Nitro Shoes and Fast Tires. Both of these brands are foam tires that come with the rims. I got 35 and 40 shore, 26mm front and 30mm rear. I hope the zero-offset Fast tires will fit on the rear of the LD3.

[Nsxshogun]

Yea I had seen that sale but I wanted to be cheap and not get new tires.

[spenzalii]

Both tires are quite good. I had better time with the Fast Tires as a all arouund tire, and the nitro shoes when the ground heated up. I think their compound is a little higher than the shore rating suggests. But Both are really good foams.

[Nsxshogun]

2marrow I'm gonna rumage through my stuff and try to find my Digi Cam. And show you some pics of my F***ed up tires.

[Onetrip]

I picked up an LD3 Pro from NitroHouse's sale this past weekend
too. Kit+nitroshoes all around+NiMh flat pack for $204 w/ tax
total!!! Bam!!! will called it since i'm about 30 min from the place so no shipping either. my question is this. will this starter box
work with the LD3 and a OS TR?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUC2&P=7

[Nsxshogun]

IT might but Ofna makes a starter box now so you can use Ntc3 ld3s 1/8 buggies and 1/10 tc's ill try to find you a link later on.

[Nsxshogun]

The Box is the first one. (http://ofna.com/starters.html)

[I_Like_F150s]

The chrome top box is very nice, and it works great for buggies. No one at our track is using one for their touring car, but it should work fine. The 12V motor is great (lot's of torque).

[PCC]

Any starter box will work with any car that can use a starter box (don't try using a starter box with a Savage or T-Maxx!). I've used starter boxes set up for touring cars on buggies and vice-versa.

[Nsxshogun]

I was reading thourgh some of the old posts when I read that you can bolt the electric start to a OS .15. Is that true also how much do they normally run.

[Nsxshogun]

I just broght some foam tires the other day and does anyone have a setup so that they will wear evanly.

[romuald31]

hello from France,

I added some pics of the new 0.8 pitch transmission on my pages
my pages (http://groups.msn.com/tg10ros/pictures)

[Grifter]

What do you guys think about the Stock Brakes?

They dont seem that bad but is there any uprades to them?

Thanks.

[Nsxshogun]

I was thining that to me and a freind were running it today and after about 6 or 7 tanks they started to fade. The fail safe started to blink slow so Im guessing its the batteries. 2marrow is my b-day so I might buy a rechargable pack.

Does anyone else have knowledge on the subject.

[spenzalii]

Let's see if I can answer all these ???s

There's no real setup per se that will keep the wear evenly. The road surface, whether you turn right or left more often all make a difference. Just try to keep all your suspension settings the same on all corners, and adjust the camber (how the tires lean in or out from the car) for wear.

A 4 cell alkaline pack will drain a bit quicker than a rechargeable 5 cell pack. Picking one up will greatly improve your brakes. For even more braking, order the carbon pads. Zero fade and really quick stops.

Nice fine pitch gearing! If I get another, I'll order the set up. It may be a while before I can find the gearing stateside

[Nsxshogun]

Darn spen I havent seen you in a while. Thanks for the info I plan to goto dougs Next week sometime. Also A curb ran into my car the other day and bent the pipe all upI can still run it but it sounds funny. I plan on getting a new engine as well as a new pipe. I want a os or a fantom pull start how much do they run up at dougs.

[Nsxshogun]

What does it do?

[spenzalii]

Sorry to hear about the pipe. Try filling the pipe with water, plugging the stinger and the end of the pipe with a wooden cork (you can get them at Lowes or Home Depot) and freezing it overnight. The ice will push the pipe back in shape.

[Nsxshogun]

I think I need a new engine because i can turn the fly wheel easly And I can hear somthing coming out the pipe when I turn the fly wheel. The E start dosent work so I said f*** it and came back in the house. So do I need a new engine.

Hey spen how much do some good engines run up at dougs im looking in the 100 range I dont want anything really good untill the race season starts.

[spenzalii]

Chances are 9 out of 10 you can get a better price for a motor on line than you can with the hobby shop. Either the Fantom or the OS will do you just fine for playing or for next season, but you won't really find anything in teh $100 range. Tower has a CV-R for around $120, which is what I am using. You will have to make a slight adjustment to get the engine to fit because of the pull start. The Fantom may be a few dollars more. Give them a call and see what they will sell it to you for.

BTW, you motor may not be dead. Can't say without seeing it. If someone has access to a starter box, try putting it on that and seeing if it will start.

[Nsxshogun]

Yea Im gonna try to go up to the Shop tomarrow. I was thinking about getting the O.S. .12 TR (P)-T Turbo Head and getting a starter box 2days my bday so I have the money for it. Whats a site that I can order fantoms from cause I havent seen any at tower unless im not looking hard enough.

[spenzalii]

Stormer Hobbies has them. Dougs may have a Fantom in stock; if not, give S&J a call. They sold a few over there so they usually have a couple in the case

[Nsxshogun]

Tried stormer and it has some nice stuff what about this motor I found this engine (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=fan01014) and This starter box (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=asc1750) .That would work wont it?

[Grifter]

Ahh yeah, the Fantom!

I have a Fantom .15(I think I've said that about a thousand times by now) in my LD3. I love it. It holds a Tune very well and rips! I wouldnt hesitate to get one, they're very good engines.

[Nsxshogun]

Yea I might go on and buy it because the force is pissin me off

[spenzalii]

Well, Grifter and a few others are firm believers in the Fantom, so you shouldn't have a problem. If you're not getting a pull start engine, the OS is also a good choice. They only run into problems when the pull start is involved.

The starter box is a good one. I got mine from Tower for 65, but then I had a very freak experience with it 2 days before a race (long story, tell you about it later or just go back a few pages). The thing I like about it is the box is already set for the LD3/NTC3, so you just have to play with the posts

[Nsxshogun]

Yea I think I might have just flooded the engine. I want the non p\s but if they have a ps motor just like it ill probally buy that.

[spenzalii]

Hard to say from your comments if teh engine was flooded. If it was, it would be very hard to turn over, not easy. That would cause fuel to come out the pipe, however. You may be running the engine rich. In any case, the Force has been, shall we say, tempermental for some people, myself included, while others have little to no problem with them.

[Nsxshogun]

Yea a buddy at school told me It was just flodedd but I cant turn the glow plug to get it out. Im usin a 8mm head on the driver. but it just wont turn guess ill keep tryin.

[Nsxshogun]

disragarg that last post I think it was just hard to start cause i tried it like 1 min ago and it started.

[Nsxshogun]

for some reason I keep spinnin out I checked the tires and there not chunnked or anything. Wats up with that. Anybody know?

[spenzalii]

Simple: IT'S COLD!! The tires, depending on what shore they are, need a certain amount of heat before they get any grip. Considering it hasn't broke 45 over here, it will do that. Go easy on the trigger