OFNA LD-3 Nitro Touring

[Grifter]

Hahaha I got the 1000th post!

I have the Force, but it hasnt had a drop of fuel through it. Do you think I run the engine, or you're just asking if I still have it.

Sorry it's late and I'm tired.:)

[spenzalii]

Taking a look at the pics, I just realized that has to be a Fantom, not the Force. I'm getting old, and my memory is fading fast

[Grifter]

No problem spen.

What do you guys do with you wires? Once I got the new switch there's wires coming out of my a$$! There's no way they're going to fit in the stock radio box.

BTW: Where is everyone? It's just me, spen and Nsx.

[Nsxshogun]

Yea Spen and Nightmare are seen at the Rctech fourms you should go there plenty of helpful people. On my 3 plug switch before I burnt out one of the plugs I ran one to the battery box one into the reciever and one taped to the u Deck for easy charging.

[Grifter]

Cool, thanks.

[spenzalii]

Probably the best way to do it is like NSX said. I have every wire except for my charge lead for the battery crammed in the box. Since I'm using a micro plug on my switch and battery, I have that tucked nicely between the outside bottom of the box and the battery. It's a nice tight fit that won't be going anywhere. I'll have pics this week.

Oh yeah, had a chance to run the car Saturday for a bit. Let's just say that plastic and chain link fences don't cooperate well together...

[Grifter]

So you got all those wires from the servos and battery into the box? Wow.

What's RC Tech's website?

[spenzalii]

The battery one is outside. Everything else (throttle servo, steering servo, failsafe) is crammed in there. It ain't pretty, but it's there

As for the other site, Here You Go (http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22838)

Lots of reading...

[randy g]

i am thinking of buying a LD3 but was wondering if parts easy to get for the LD3 ( i already have a reflex 12 with a list of parts on back order)

[Grifter]

Parts are easy to get depending if your LHS stocks them. If not, Nitro House is a great place to buy LD3 parts. So yeah, parts are pretty easy to come by.

spen: I meant to say radio box sorry. rctech.NET that's what was messing it up.

[spenzalii]

don't worry about it. I had the same problem finding the site myself

randy...go get one! you know you want it...

[randy g]

i am gonna get one in a couple weeks got to let the wife get over the new xray m18 and trinity reflex 12 before i bring another car in the house

[spenzalii]

Ah, I know that feeling. I got my Mini T and the M18 within weeks of each other, then started the LD3 rebuild...Now I need another esc for the M18 (burned the stock one out) and another Mini-T (don't ask)

In any case, you will enjoy the LD3. If you have radio gear but no engine, spring for the LD3 Pro w/ the Picco. You won't be dissapointed

[randy g]

spenzalii

i almost bought a mini t last week to turn in to a sprint car to go with my 1/10 scale sprint i thought a 1/18 scale sprint would be cool

[spenzalii]

Sprint car huh? I guess it could be done. They are fun little trucks, I know that much. With a 6 cell and a good motor (the baja or radier make very good drop in motors) they are a lot quicker (and wheelie happier) than I expected. I don't have mine anymore, but hope to get another soon (either that or a Rockbuster)

[Nsxshogun]

spen do I really want to know what happened to it.

[spenzalii]

Well, it's not pretty, but pics will be up soon. I would love to go run this weekend, but I gotta go to NC this weekend :mad:

[1 Bad STi]

Just droppin by for good times sake. Did spenzalii tell you guys he's throwing the ld3 out the window and purchasing a Kanai III yet????? :eek: :D ....just messin.

[spenzalii]

Say it ain't so....Wait..

It ain't so!

[spenzalii]

When you go at a fence

[Gyro Gearloose]

:eek:

You gotta stay away from fences and any other items made of concrete, wood, and steel. I've found that those materials are very destructive to RC cars. ;)

Okay guys, I've just become a LD3 owner, I found the 2 speed version with the onboard auto start at a price I couldn't turn down, it won't be a racer, but it'll be great in the local parking lots and I'm looking forward to having fun with it. :)

I should have it at my door in a week or so. :cool: No huge hurry as I'm still finishing up my Serpent 950 build.

[spenzalii]

Sounds good. If you ditch the autostart and the Force you may be surprised by it at the races. Then again, seeing you're building a Snake, you would probably opt for the 710. In any case, enjoy it!

[spenzalii]

This is what I'm going to have to run so far (until that Mazda6 comes in)

[Nsxshogun]

Was up spen hows ya been im in paris rite now and like you said the food isn't all that great. Ill try to get on aim and chat in a miniute.

[Grifter]

I did some nice bashing yesterday and only wiped out once. I did like 5 barrel rolls but the LD3 kept on truckin'. I noticed after the run that I bent the stinger pretty bad on my stock pipe. I'm going to try out the Fantom even though I dont think I want to keep it. Are there any pipes that are worth the extra cash, because as of now I think I'm going to get another Ofna Ringed Pipe.

[spenzalii]

hard to say. Quite a few of the pipes out now have the one piece design. You may be able to get a pipe from Dynamite (I know they have a few).

In the meantime, try this: fill the pipe with water and plug the pipe with wooden corks so the water won't leak out (you can use a toothpic for the pressure tap) and freeze it overnight. The ice will push most, if not all, of the dent out...

[Nsxshogun]

I rite now have a rd logics one piece on my r40 but i have hered that the 2 piece ones are great 2. Just use your stock mani foild with the pipe and it should fit. You can find them on speedtechrc.com

[spenzalii]

Good deal. They race at Dougs this weekend. You coming out? I may be there just as a tune up for teh 18th when Fastlane's season starts

[Grifter]

Thanks for the suggestions. I found out that the stinger was easily fixed. :D So I wont need a new pipe yet.

[Nsxshogun]

Good deal. They race at Dougs this weekend. You coming out? I may be there just as a tune up for teh 18th when Fastlane's season starts


Naw I can't make it today spen cause my reciver battery went out on me, so that i couldn't get it broken in on time. But i did find a battery for my box so i may try agian today.

[Nsxshogun]

I did finish my body though ill try to get some pics later today.

[fishstix]

I have the stock ld3 with 2 speed. I noticed uneven wear on the left side of the tires. :( I adjusted the camber or caster I don't know what does what but more of the tire is on the ground. I did notice though i don't have an anti sway bar on the back. Is this piece necessary for racing?? What advantage would be gained with it??

[2 speed nitro]

camber would be the only cause of tire wear....unless you take a lot of left turns and less right turns...caster will not affect tire wear....sway bar is good..don't remove it

[2 speed nitro]

how fast is this thing of of the box with the 2 speed?

[fishstix]

I would say it is pretty fast with the 2speed. I got the car late in the season last year and have not put that much fuel through it but the car have some get up and go. I am trying to find some people in my area that race street.

[2 speed nitro]

how much do these sell for with the single speed and the 2 speed with the failsafe? my hobbyshop sells these but i 4got how much they asking, and i don't want the 2 speed with the failsafe....i'll just by the venom one...20 bux off of ebay...

[Gyro Gearloose]

i'll just by the venom one...20 bux off of ebay...

Let me know who's got them for that, I was getting ready to buy two from hobbieguy(eBay ID) for $24 each +s/h.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Where'd everyone go? Out running your LD3's? :)

Hey, I need a little help on picking a set of tires(Or not). Are these things the RTR car came with any good? I'm going to be running in semi clean to quite dusty/sandy parking lots. I was thinking of another set or two to experiment with.

So many choices...I was thinking of a set of 26/30mm foams maybe.

Suggestions?

[spenzalii]

RTR Tires? Good for break in, nothing else. In a dirty parking lot, though, it's hard to say. Foams are the way to go especially if you're racing. The lot I'm running on seems to like Nitro Shoes. But you can also get nice traction from SPeedmind, Fast Tires, Ellegi, Momo etc...Whatever is available in your area and what the fast people are running. If you hav eto run Rubber, try a set of Take-Offs or, if you can find them, Medial Pros

[Gyro Gearloose]

Kewl, I figured about as much. I'll have to watch for some tires on eBay since I don't have a LHS that does cars, just some indoor flashlight racers.

Shore rating? It gets pretty hot around here I guess, anywhere from 70's like now to 90's in the summer. I guess I'll try some 30's or 35's maybe, these aren't aren't like my 1/8 snakes. I think I can go softer in a 1/10 TC?

[Gyro Gearloose]

No biggie at the moment, I think I'll try to break in the Force tomorrow and see if it runs or not.

Oh, I did get a Picco Omega that I'll be putting in there for fun later, I got it really cheap new in the box. Rated at 1.1 HP so it should be a little more exciting than the Force with that cast heatsink(yuck), that always means cheap and slow. I know I might get bored quick. We'll see.

[Gyro Gearloose]

:D
Kewl, first time I've ever ran an RC car in my back parking lot, this little dude does alright, the Force might not be a race engine but I never saw second gear and my parking lot seems a lot smaller today.

Was just breaking in of course, no WOT or even close yet. In fact I'd just finished the second 2 minute run of circles and figure eights and I went to pick it up and it stopped, I know when a plug goes and this one was gone.
:(
Typical for the first one to go quickly during break in, I wish I had another because this car was fun, great brakes and the response of the Force was pretty good.


What plug is it? What can I use as a temporary replacement?

I guess I can RTFM now. :p

http://img9.photobucket.com/albums/v27/lola_gt/carmechanic.gif

[Gyro Gearloose]

Anyways, I know I'll be happy playing with my car, no hurry to put the Picco in it for a while, I'll probably wear out the Force over the summer.




The edit function on this board stinks, wonder why they messed that up like that?

[spenzalii]

I guess I'll try some 30's or 35's maybe, these aren't aren't like my 1/8 snakes. I think I can go softer in a 1/10 TC?

1/10 and 1/8 are a bit different. Generally, 40 shore all round is a good starting point. If you need a bit more grip, between 37 and 35, depending on how cold the track is, how much traction is out there and what brand (that makes a big difference. I have found that Nitro Shoes 40 shore are a bit harder than, say, Speedmind 40 shore). If it gets warmer, you may even go up to a 42 shore to keep traction rolling down.

Plug should be a MC59 (McCoy) or OS#8. Either will do fine in that Force. Since you run a 1/8 Snake, no doubt you have the tuning thing down... The Force is fun to piddle with, but AS SOON AS you get it on a track, you will see it's a bit short on power. But as geared, it isn't that bad at all.

Hope it helps a bit

[Gyro Gearloose]

Thanks for the info, spenzalii, I appreciate it.

I'm not used to any 1/10 scale stuff at all, there's no racing around here except for some indoor flashlights. My 1/8 track is over an hour away and not much open practice except on racedays since there's also an off road track and a carpet inside; they alternate so I can't just go over there and drive the track of my choosing. :(

I don't know if I can even get mc59's at the bike shop/poor excuse for a hobby shop that we have here in town.

I did read the manual tonight and it states I can use a mc-8 or 9 with two coppers, I have a whole card of mc-9's for my Hyper buggy, so I guess I'll still be able to run it.

And what's funny is the plug that came with it had a extra large tip for the auto start connector, I'll have to use a glowstarter now unless I change that clip or squeeze it down somehow. Oh well.

I'll write down your tire recommendations and see what I can find on line.

Dale

[Gyro Gearloose]

Okay guys, wake up!

I found out I can run my car most practice days anyways as the tracks are right next to each other.

Anyways, I've decided I'm going to try to race and get in the way of all those dang TC3's out here. :p

I've bought a set of CVA's for the rear, another clutch, set of shocks, screw set, and a spare body on eBay, I love eBay!(I am a pro eBayer, lol).

I've just ordered three sets of some ( Ellegi 30mm 35sh rears and 26mm 37sh fronts) racing foams from mushroom land(Hong Kong).

The front/rear blade type swaybar package and a set of different rates shock springs from Nitrohouse.

Yeah, I guess I am going to race afterall. LOL

I'm going to pull the Force and keep it for a back up until I decide to get a TR or something, maybe. The Picco Omega will have to do for now, it's no RB but I don't think it will suck, anyways. I don't need an all out race motor anyway, I need to keep off the boards first. ;)

[spenzalii]

That Omega Picco should do pretty well for now. I forget, is that thing side or rear exhaust? Those tires should give you some nice grip, but watch for wear. I still have to get another set of springs sometime soon, and maybe anothe pipe.

I too am pro eBay. I scores a NIB NovaMega SX12 side exhaust (so I won't have to get a new pipe up front) for rather cheap. I plan on sending it out to get modded in a few days. That should help me out just a bit in my series, yes/no?

[Gyro Gearloose]

The Omega is a side exhaust, there's a rear exhaust version too but this only cost me $70 and my pipe/header from the Force will fit.

Yeah, those tires seemed soft to me too, but most were running 32 rears and 35 fronts with full sauce(Paragon), and it was 90 degrees and the track was fresly sprayed with syrup. :eek:

I'll order more sets in a month or so(When I have more cash), they alternate every other week(On and off road) so I won't need more right away.

[spenzalii]

Soudns pretty good. I got my Mazda6 body painted, but I may not put that one on until I get the motor back and finish beating up the Audi. I'm debating on getting that other pipe, too, but haven't really made my mind up yet.

With a setup on the track like you mentioned, those guys must have been going for some hellafied grip. Oh well, if that's what works...

[Gyro Gearloose]

That Mazda body is sweet.

The track is just naturally slick, I guess. They were still sliding, I didn't see anyone traction roll all day.

Just got email from Mushroom that tires are on the way and got the UPS email that Nitrohouse shipped my parts, too.

I'll be ordering more tire sets in a couple weeks probably, Ellegi tires for $8 a pair are a good deal, even shipped from Hong Kong.

[spenzalii]

YEah, hard to beat that deal, as long as you can wait for delivery. I ordered my Speedminds from them. Pretty good deal

[Gyro Gearloose]

Yes, so good of a deal I went back tonight and ordered 10 more pairs to cover different conditions, including 4 sets of 40R 42FR for low wear and practice running.

I would like to run rubbers as I saw some fast cars that were running Sorex 36R's that day(hot), but they cost a lot more than the foams by the time one buys wheels and inserts, maybe down the road I'll try some, if they last a long time to make them worth it.

Parts are supposed to be here Friday so I'll tear down this weekend and install the Picco and the swaybars. I also have an extra JR RS 300 synth RX I'm putting in so I can use my XS3 TX.

That should be it for a while, I'd like some other things that will make it go faster(Front one way would be nice) but this will have to do for this project for now. I hope it'll be respectable on the track. :)

[spenzalii]

As long as you can drive it should be.

The race was Sunday. I came in 3rd, because I was WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY underpowered. That OS was against a MS speial and a MT12. The only way I was gonna get them was if they crashed or flamed out, which they didn't. If the race was 10 minutes instead of 5, I could have won in the pits (gets much better gas mileage than either). Ah well, I think I'm still up in the points race, so it will be OK. That and the NovaMega will be in this week, which should help even things up...

[KevDoggX]

Geez, haven't been here in a looong while. Then again, havne't had my car out in a while either. Had a quick question though. Saw somewhere (a magazine or on the net) a floating rear body post kit for the LD3. Was I dreaming? And if I wasn't, what's the part number? Like to add one of those ( I think it was only about 10 bucks or so), and the graphite upper deck parts. Then, start running again this summer.

Anyways, chat you guys latererers.

[spenzalii]

Check Nitrohouse. They should have it.

Part #38603
$8.46

[jerseyevo]

will a 5 cell hump pack fit in the ld3?

[Gyro Gearloose]

Yes it will, jersyevo, it seems to be the one of choice for it, actually.

[spenzalii]

Yes it will, jersyevo, it seems to be the one of choice for it, actually.

Not so, my friend. A stick pack will indeed fit in the box. In fact, if you opt for the graphite upper deck, you HAVE to have a flat pack. I found that out the hard way after wrenching an hour after the hobby shop closed. Fortunately, my M18 had a doner I used

[Gyro Gearloose]

Yup, I know both fit in the box. I never though about the carbon top deck, it's like the TC3 set up then.

[jerseyevo]

so will it fit in a stock ld3 rtr?
i prefer it over the 4.8 volt square pack.
thanks again guys.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Yeah, I'm using a 6v hump pack in my RTR.

[jerseyevo]

cool!
which one are you using?
im trying to find one that comes with a plug-in wall charger charger.

[jerseyevo]

sorry if im a pain but i dont have the car in front of me,my LD3 RTR is in transit form tower hobbies so i cant physically see if it will fit..
will this fit?
http://www.ofna.com/images/EL-10212-batt.jpg

[Gyro Gearloose]

Mine is the same MDP brand, looks just like that (except mine is 1200 mah)and I'm using the MDP wall charger too. It will work fine.:)

[jerseyevo]

ok thanks guy i appreciate it.
oh one more question...
what is the differential mod everyone is talking about?
is it adding 2 more gears in the rear differential?
again this newbie thanks you for all your help..

[Gyro Gearloose]

The six gear diff isn't a "mod", it's the diffs that come in the pro kit. They're supposed to transmit power a little smoother than the four gear diff that comes in the standard car. It's not an upgrade I'd be looking at because I doubt the improvement is hardly noticable. Maybe if I was racing and I kept blowing diffs, I don't know if the 6 gear is any stronger though, I kind of doubt it.

[jerseyevo]

im just a parking lot cruiser so it probably would'nt matter to me,
any way i recently purchased the hpi rs4 evo and i cant wait to see how it compares to the ld3.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Great, come back and let us know what you think of both cars.:)

[jerseyevo]

3 weeks ago i purchased a new hpi rs4 evo rtr and i thought it was the greatest thing untill i received my new ld3 rtr today.
i have to say this ld3 is awesome..
quality is incredible it makes the rs4 evo look like a peice of crap!
i cant beleive how smooth, durable and well designed this ld3 is,
i am now an ofna man.
this week after i reseal the carb neck with rtv i will break in the motor and road test her, from looking at both of these cars i beleive the hpi evo will see alot of shelf time.
thanks again to everyone on this forum,
jerseyevo.
ps a few questions...do the shocks come filled on my rtr kit?
should i add oil to the diffs?
shouldi use both glow washers that came with the plug in my kit?

[Gyro Gearloose]

Yeah, it's a real nice car, I think it's nicer than the Associated TC3.

The shocks come filled with 25 wt oil(okay for street/parking lot running)
The diffs have grease in them, I'd leave them like that probably, since you aren't racing, you can clean out the grease(Using "Brake Free" full size car brake cleaner or mineral spirits etc...) and put silicone diff fluid in them, but it's really only if you're going to race(to tune steering), and you'd still want to break in the diffs with the grease anyways.

Hmmm, is there a glowplug installed in the engine? There was on mine and it had one copper...

Wait for Spenzalii or someone else to get here and say for sure because I'm not sure what the deal is...

[jerseyevo]

yea i love it..
the glowplug was not installed in the engine,the plug is sealed on a blistercard with 2 washers,the blister card says "ofna/picco 12".
it looks like the long glowplug version with 2 washers on it.

[Gyro Gearloose]

That's what I'd do then, use both washers. My plug blew on the first tank of breaking in the engine, the instructions mentioned using a mc-9 with two copper seals as a replacement and that's what I did, works fine.

[jerseyevo]

ok will do..
whats the easy way to raise the ride height?
i noticed little allen screws under the control arms,do i loosen these and or is there
other adjustments i should do?
i dont race its just for parking lots which do have little pebbles here and there.
thanks again!

[Bishop]

Hey, I'm looking to get a LD3 Pro, as it's just so damn cheap for what you get, but I am only going to be running it at club level touring, so I'm kind of curious as to what comes in the Pro kits in terms of back spec gear as well as the Pro spec gear?
By that I mean that if I still want to run a normal spec front diff etc, does it come with one, or just the one way?
Likewise, club spec here is pull start only, so I need to know if it comes with mounts to suit a PS or do I need to buy them seperatly?, I realise I will need a diffrent pipe/manifold though.

I know I could just by the 80% kit (Hong Nor spec stuff here), but I lothe pre built stuff, and would like the Pro spec gear for later anyway.


You know on a sub note, I almost got into Nitro 2 years back now, but then had a change of heart when I saw the shaft drive cars hit pre release back then, I decided to sell up my current gear (I had only just bought a TS4N Pro) and wait till more shaft drive cars started to hit the shelfs and tracks here (Australia), as I knew they would be the future of 1/10th touring, and sure enough, now everyone is making race level shaft drive touring cars, and a TC3 won our local club level class in 2003.
:cool:

[Luckyman4]

Bishop,

I'm not 100% sure that the Pro kit is the same in the US as it in OZ, but I can tell you my US Pro kit came with both the front one-way and the normal 6 gear Pro front diff, I stuck with the std diff since my local track is fairly short with no big sweepers. You probably will need to order new motor mounts for the pull start motor, the Pro mounts are shorter and I don't believe they will give you enough room to mount a pull start style motor. It's possible you could shim the motor up enough though with a stack of washers or other shimming material. Some PS motors will come with a set of shims for just that purpose (OS I think).

And you're right, the Pro kit w/Picco is one heck of a deal! Congrats! :)

-John

[Gyro Gearloose]

I forgot to mention that it rained last Sunday, no race. This week is off road so next race is June 6th, sigh, it's nice that they have both tracks in one place though(I'm lucky to have them).
I don't know if I showed you guys the track I go to, here's the link(post#31).


http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155411&page=1

[jerseyevo]

i read somewhere on this forum about someone needing help with the ld3 linkage binding up between the servo arm and brake linkage.
i also had the same problem and in the manual it says to add a shim in between it(its included in the extra parts,bodypost and shock stuff tree) i did it and now shes fine.
just dont know why they dont add it add the factory?

[crymynal]

Since the mods won't ad the thread for the OFNA F1 I have decided to post here were there is moderate traffic. Does anyone know anything about this car? I have one and have only seen three others in the past couple of years. I need some parts but can not find any. Do any of you know any place that has parts for the OFNA Nitro F1?

[Grifter]

Wow, havent been here for awhile. How's everyone's LD3? Mine hasnt seen much action lately, I dont have that much time to run it but I hope to soon. Any new products or anything I should about?

crymynal: I have no idea about the F1.

[jerseyevo]

well just an update,
i finally broke in my new ld3 rtr and all is well..
will take it out to the parking lot this weekend and run it against my hpi rs4.

[Gyro Gearloose]

I'm going out right now to the new parking lot a couple miles down the road, I have two tanks through the Picco Omega on the stand and it's time to set it on the ground and blip around...I need to get it where I can at least run on the track this weekend, I need to get one tank in blipping around then start leaning it just enough so I can get second gear hopefully...

[Nsxshogun]

Well I may have to break out the ld3 again. Im planing on putting a Ofna Picco in it. I don't need that much to finish it.

[Gyro Gearloose]

I ran the Picco Omega in a little more (3rd tank, but the first tank on the ground). I thought the RTR tires were pretty grippy with the Force, the Picco makes them seem like plastic, I was drifting.:p It was really rich, just leaned enough to drive and shift, lots of power compared to the red head.

I think it'll be an alright club race engine, we'll see this weekend, hopefully.

[Nsxshogun]

I ran the Picco Omega in a little more (3rd tank, but the first tank on the ground). I thought the RTR tires were pretty grippy with the Force, the Picco makes them seem like plastic, I was drifting.:p It was really rich, just leaned enough to drive and shift, lots of power compared to the red head.

I think it'll be an alright club race engine, we'll see this weekend, hopefully.

Yea those stock tires are junk they barely made it past break in for me. The omega picco which one the Xp-12.

[jerseyevo]

which treaded tires are good for parking lots for my ld3 rtr?
thankyou,
former hpi fan.

[spenzalii]

Y'all missed me :p

OK, let's see about answeing some of these questions and giving my update:

The US pro version does come with a one way and a diff. The grey market (Hong Nor) has only the one way, but also has foam tires and a centax clutch.

Bishop: if the club will only allow pull start in your class, you may have to check the flywheel. The pro spec is set up for a rear exhaust SG shaft non pull start engine, so they spec a smaller flywheel. I believe the motor mounts on the pro are also a bit lower than those for the RTR. Depending on what engine you get, you may not have a problem. HOwever, some engines (like OS) will have fitment problems with the lowered mounts. The pullstart will be in the way and hit the chasis. To make a long story short, you may not have a problem, but if so, just swap the motor mounts and the flywheel.

The 6 gear diff will make the power delivery a bit smoother and will be stronger when you ditch that Force 12 and get something with a bit of power. When you do, grab some diff oil. The hot ticket seems to be finding the thickest, nastiest stuff you can get your hands on. I have 100k in the rear and AE 300k up front. That stuff is extremely thick. Can't say how it will run just yet. Hopefully by the weekend. When you do crack the diffs, try to find some longer screws. The stock screws are m2x6 flathead self tapping screws. They have a tendency to back out after a while, loosenig the diff and increasing the chances of stripping out the gears (as happened on both my front and rear this week). You can either use the 2x8 machine screws they have for the front one way or pick up a set of 2x8 tapping screws from Tamiya (I don't have the part numbers, but Tower has the Tamiya screws).

Don't know why they don't shim the linkage, but that spacer will do the trick.

Glowplugs: The Force and OS usually use short plugs. USe 2 copper washers. If memory serves, the Picco and others use standard size plugs. Use one washer on those.

You all know about the kit tires: they suck!

As for anyone with a Picco, I know a guy that will mod it for you for a decent price. That Nova he massaged for me looks to be a screamer, if I can get the power to the ground.

[spenzalii]

Treaded Tires? You could try the Pro-line V-Rage. They get nice and sticky when they warm up

[jerseyevo]

thanks spenz,
ill give'm a try.

[spenzalii]

No P. Unless the lot is very dusty and full of rocks, you may want to consider foams...

[jerseyevo]

i just cant understand why foams would have better traction than rubber,
i could understand them being great on carpet but on blacktop?
i never owned foams on my nitro cars so can anyone please explain?
thankyou again.

[Grifter]

I have Medial Pro's. I like them a lot.

I'm not in the market for a new engine, but which one is good? Kind of a broad question.

[spenzalii]

I could find an article or two on the subject and bore you to death on the differences (and I still might), but in short, foams are a bit more consistent gripwise.

I better find that article to give you a much better answer...

[jerseyevo]

anyone try the new venom tires on there ld3?

[Gyro Gearloose]

The omega picco which one the Xp-12.

Naaa, the XT side exhaust with pull start, rated at 1.1 hp. No all out race engine but plenty strong enough for learning to drive TC.

I have a brand new Trinity/Picco XP Comp. race(1.4 hp) engine I'll use after I learn my car.

I was looking at those Venom tires on eBay the other day, they look good Jersey, if you try some tell us how they hold up.


Good to see you back, Spenzalii. lol @ 'champ'..:p

The main difference with rubber tires for racing is they're twice the cost, and you have to mess around gluing them up with the inserts and everything, no guarantee if they'll go twice as far before wearing out either.

[Nsxshogun]

Yea rubber tires suck. Mostly because they cost like 30 for a set of good tires 15 for inserts then another 15 for rims. When you can go and get about 2 sets of foams for that price. But spen whats up with that Cv-R cuase Ill take it off your hands.

[jerseyevo]

i just hate the gluing part,i think im gonna try those pre-mounted venom magnetics.
i figure when the venom tires do wear out ill save the rims and just buy the tires plus the venom tires dont use foam liners because they have a built in honeycomb liner.

[Gyro Gearloose]

You find a good deal on them somewhere, Jersey?

[Bishop]

I will have no choice but to run rubber, the pull start class I want to race in also has a control rubber tyre (HPI 4435).

I did a bit or reading on Foam vs Rubber some time back, basically Foam kind of kicks ass on a well prepped smooth surface, but if it gets a little sandy/dusty etc, rubber can grip better because it has a higher amount of grip though a smaller actual contact patch, meaning it can grip better on some types of surfaces cause it sort of cuts though the crud, sort of like a real car or bike tyre, where as the foam just trys to float on top of it all.
Wear can favour the foam in the smooth, but often more so the rubber if it's corse, but then that can come down to compounds etc.
Of course it can get even more complicated than that, but it's just a few basic points I picked up in my readings.

You know a few years back I kind of agreed with using rubber as a control tyre, or as a way to keep costs down, but I have noticed foams just getting cheaper and cheaper over the years (and rubbers & inserts never seem to change), and wear seems better than it used to be with foam, so now I'm tempted to follow the current thinking that rubber is better for just play, and foam is "the" tyre to race on, particular when you consider most race tracks are smooth and well prepped now.

What does everyone else think?, is foam the true future of all on-road RC?

[Bishop]

Oh yeah, and you never have to worry about temps with foam, which gives them a huge advantage there...

[jerseyevo]

i have seen the venom wheels on ebay for around $30.00 (set of 4),
they have many different style rim/tire combos to choose from and they look awesome.
nothing like chrome mags with rubber treaded tires to set off your detailed body.
heres a set below..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5902720864&rd=1&tc=photo

[spenzalii]

Um, the temp of the track still matters on a foam tire, just not as much. For instance, if it's cold, a 45 shore tire just is not going to cut it. The tire will be too hard to get ant grip on the cold track. Conversely, if it's really hot, a 35 shore tire will wear very quickly and may make you traction roll. The same principle applies, but not to the degree as with rubber tires. Everything else you mentioned was pretty much on point Bishop. The contact patch is much more consistent with foam, as the tire doesn't distort at speed, while just about every rubber tire I've seen will balloon at some sort of speed. But if the ground is dusty, the foams may be a liability than an advantage, as the foam will be gripping the dirt and rocks rather than the ground. Your best bet is to see what everyone else at the track/lot is running and go from there.

The Venom tires look similar in design to the Medial Pro tires. For $30 a set, it can't hurt to try.

On price of foam vs. rubber: it really pays to shop around. Your pair of foam tires will run anywhere from $15-$20 depending on which you want and where you get them. You can order a set of rubber tires from SPeedtech RC for around the same price
http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/121.html

As for that CV-R, haven't decided yet. I'll let you know...

[Bishop]

i have seen the venom wheels on ebay for around $30.00 (set of 4),
they have many different style rim/tire combos to choose from and they look awesome.
nothing like chrome mags with rubber treaded tires to set off your detailed body.
heres a set below..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5902720864&rd=1&tc=photo

Yeah, for a concourse or show event, nothing beats a set of chrome style wheels with some treaded rubber, I love the Yokohama HPI replicas for that.

[jerseyevo]

check out these rims (set of 4) for $10.00,
he has other styles also.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5902758617

[spenzalii]

I will say this: The rims look sweet. However, for racing, they usually aren't the greatest choice. They tend to be a little fragile. If you're driving in a wide open space, fine and well. When you race, where you will hit something, they probably will break faster than a nylon rim would.

[Gyro Gearloose]

I don't think you need rims with offset either, those are usually used on electric chassis to make them look right with 200 mm nitro bodies, electrics are usually 190 mm bodies.(I think)

[spenzalii]

The offset can't hurt that much. It will give the car a slightly wider stance, whiich can help with electric cars, true. But some nitro cars may have clearance problems with the hub without some offset. There is a ROAR rule about how wide the car can be with the tires and offset, but not that many tracks will tech it. Considering you will be using 26mm rubber tires, and most rear foams run 30mm, the offset won't be an issue

[Gyro Gearloose]

But some nitro cars may have clearance problems with the hub without some offset.

Not the LD3.

Considering you will be using 26mm rubber tires, and most rear foams run 30mm, the offset won't be an issue
On 30mm foams the extra width(4 mm) is inboard. Unless you're running offset foams(?)

You will have to cut your RTR LD3 body to clear these tires if you use offset rims, it's no big deal if you don't mind that. You're not racing anyways if I remember right, correct Jerseyevo?

[jerseyevo]

correct i dont race,i just mainly sport around the parking lots where i live.
i just wish we had tracks here in jersey.
they just built a huge freshly paved enclosed parking lot here for a new roller hockey rink,im very tempted to hopover those barriers..lol.
this would make an excellent roadcourse for us racers when not in use,if i had the backup from local racers i would present this idea at the townhall meetings.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Spenzalii or whoever can answer,

Aluminum CNC Holder, Front Lower Arms
PART# 38447
Aluminum CNC Holder, Rear Lower Arms
PART# 38448
Are those parts the same as
Aluminum CNC Lower Arm, Holder
PART# 38446 (two pieces)

These are all pictured on the nitrohouse options pages, I'm a little confused which parts I might need if I decide to upgrade the hinge pin holders.

Do you think the stock nylon ones are okay?

I'm going to get the 6 gears sets for the diffs I'm thinking, and probably the aluminum swaybar holders too, maybe...

What do you think of the pro shocks, are they decent or are there better shocks out there(Other brands) that will fit?

[jerseyevo]

oh i got those v-rage tires and they seem to be smaller than the ld3 tires?
awesome looking tires though,cant wait to try them.
thanks again gentlemen!

[Gyro Gearloose]

Come back to tell us how they're holding up for you , Jersey.

[jerseyevo]

will do..
been raining here all weekend :(

[boatman]

Is anybody running the Ofna tuned pipe for the LD3?If so I was wandering If it is as good as the RD logics Pipe?

Thanks Ray

[Gyro Gearloose]

Good question boatman,

I was wondering what the difference was between the OFNA RE pipe, and the RDL Turbo, and the RDL DC(dual chamber) pipes? Which one is best for my Trinity/Picco Comp race engine? I'm planning on using the engine eventually and saving the Picco Omega for a back up.

[spenzalii]

[quote**You will have to cut your RTR LD3 body to clear these tires if you use offset rims, it's no big deal if you don't mind that. You're not racing anyways if I remember right, correct Jerseyevo?
[/quote]
He may not have to cut anything. I think the best bet would be mount them up and see how they fit in relation to the bumper. If they don't rub, keep on rolling...

Arm holders: 38446 is the one you want. They have a pair in the pack. You will need to order two (one for front, one for rear). The stock ones will do, but I have had them break after two particularly nasty crashes (one with a Serpent 950 and one after getting snagged by a nail in the retaining barrier)

The shocks are cool, but upgrade the rubber bladders. I have the Mugen ones in mine now. No leaking...

[Gyro Gearloose]

Arm holders: 38446 is the one you want. They have a pair in the pack. You will need to order two (one for front, one for rear).
Okay... I have 1 1/2 dergree of kick up on my RTR, I assume since you say I need two sets that they are zero(flat).

How will I get back to 1 1/2 degree of kick up? I guess I'll have to measure what it is off the chassis(height) and add spacers. Kind of a poor design choice, then, if that's the case. We should have a set of these to adjust kick up and anti squat. :confused:



I see what you mean on the off set rims/tires, they might be lower profile tires than the RTR set. I still wouldn't do it, that's just asking to catch a tire on something having them outside of the body like that.

[spenzalii]

I think there is a way to adjust for kick up, but I forget how. I'll have to check and see. As for the tires, they should work. At the most, you may have to do some slight trimming of the body, but that is to be expected and isn't the end of the world. I had to trim my RTR body for the RTR wheels...

[Gyro Gearloose]

I know how, they'll have to be shims between the holders and the chassis, a poor solution when the nylon parts are already made so one can change this.(38263 HOLDER, ARMS, 0, 1.5, 2.5 DEGEE SET). edit: I'm not really complaining, just curious more than anything. It's going to save me cash for something else I guess.:p I can shim them to get some kick up.

I assume you mean the mugen shock bladders from the mtx-3 TC shocks?
Part no. D0508 diaphragm? Is that a bag of 4 bladders?

I searched at tower for the diff screw replacements(Tamiya 2x8 self tapping?), I didn't find them, maybe I searched the wrong way, I'll try again later...

[spenzalii]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXGG73

There you go. And yep, those are the bladders

[Gyro Gearloose]

Okie dokie, I just ordered a couple packs of the screws. Thank you for the link, Spenzalii.:)

Now to compose a list of parts/goodies:
Two sets of the six gear diff internals...
Super heavy diff lube for above...
Two sets of the aluminum swaybar holders...
Two sets of the hinge pin holders...

I'll pass on the pro shocks for now, I don't have to have them yet I'm thinking... :confused:



End of LD3 budget for at least a month. I do need to set enough aside for a pipe for my race engine so I can put the Omega away for a back up...

No ideas what's up with the pipes? I'm going to go for the RDL DC pipe then, because I saw it for like $45....

I just need to get some lube in the diffs and run it, more than anything else...

[spenzalii]

The 100K diff lube shouldn't be too hard to get. The 300K I only found by AE. Really thick stuff. It's like cold molasses...

You were right on the hinge pin mounts. Shims on the bottom.

For the pipe, I heard good things on the RdLogics and the THS pipe (if you can find that one). The Ofna pipe is good, but may have an issue with too much back pressure on some engines. Since I'm still running a side exhaust, haven't had any experience. Maybe when the CD3 comes out I will...

[Gyro Gearloose]

I just won an RDL DC pipe on eBay for $47 shipped. It will have to do.

I just got the UPS email that my parts shipped out, too.:)

I didn't find the 300,000 wt(wow!) diff lube, I'll have to start with 100,000 in the front for now and 50,000 or 30,000 in the back I guess, it shouldn't 'diff' too much I hope. I'll keep a lookout for the 300,000 stuff.

[spenzalii]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXFTY0

there you go again...

[Gyro Gearloose]

Kewl. Okay, it's ordered, along with a nice tuning screwdriver and some knife blades...


Thank you once again, Spenzalii.:)

I just dug out my starter box for my Serpent, I'm going to see if I can use it with my LD3, I'll have to put the car on there sideways, make some line up marks or something, I think it'll work...we'll see.

[spenzalii]

No Problem. Loke I said, the king has returned :D :D

[Gyro Gearloose]

http://img9.photobucket.com/albums/v27/lola_gt/Smilies/smiley-notworthy.gif
































http://img9.photobucket.com/albums/v27/lola_gt/Smilies/zneener.gif

[Bishop]

Has anyone else been quietly pondering the thoughts of how the CD3 update will alter the cars balance?

I have almost been tempted to post a thread about it in general in the Nitro section of the forum, as I kind of theorise that when the NTC3 came out (followed by the LD3 of course), it introduced us to the concept of an almost "mid mount" engine RC car, and of course now with the new redesign, partly due to the new Kyosho FW (safe bet), we are in a way going back to a rear mount engine.

Of course I know it's not really true mid or rear mount either way, but it makes you think?
Will the CD out perform the LD?, and if that is the case, is the rear mount the better performance option?

I still kind of like the single shaft layout personally, I just the neatness of it all, so I'm not so sure I'd ever go to a CD3, but then maybe it's better from a technical point of view???

[jerseyevo]

hi all,
does anybody make a rollbar or handle or have any ideas about making one for the ld3?
the ld3 sitting next to my rs4 evo without a rollbar looks funny :eek:

[spenzalii]

Haven't seen a roll bar/handle for the car at all. I mentioned this to Ofna as well. Al well, the price of a better designed tank and durability vs. the NTC3...

As for the LD3/CD3 balance issue, it will be hard to say. I know it will be be nice to use a more standard header/pipe combo for starters . As for introducing the mid mount design, that's not entirely true. Tamiya used it for their TGX line for some time. I guess the mid mount just requires a bit more thought where components are concerned (pipes, starter boxes, ease of mantainence, etc). With the CD3 (FW-05), the layout is akin to a buggy (or RS4, to stay with the sedans...). The only downside is the engine is on the RIGHT, where a buggy would be on the LEFT. This created the problem with some starter boxes yet again, as most are skewed to the left. But I understand Ofna will be including a molded box with some CD3 kits.

I plan on getting one when they come out. I still haven't been convinced to go to a belt drive car yet!

[Gyro Gearloose]

Anyone have a link to this CD3? If it's a belt drive car it obvioulsly has no real relation to the LD3 but I'd like to see it. Belt drive cars are cool if you have a real RC track that's kept clean(Which I do have).

All I can find are a few links and pictures to the HyperG4 1/10 beltdrive car which is supposed to come out in August. :confused:

I don't need anymore cars though, feeding two or three at once is enough.:p

[Bishop]

Anyone have a link to this CD3? If it's a belt drive car it obvioulsly has no real relation to the LD3 but I'd like to see it. Belt drive cars are cool if you have a real RC track that's kept clean(Which I do have).

All I can find are a few links and pictures to the HyperG4 1/10 beltdrive car which is supposed to come out in August. :confused:

I don't need anymore cars though, feeding two or three at once is enough.:p
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165620&highlight=cd3

[Gyro Gearloose]

Hmmmm....not interesting enough to make me think about it for more than two or three seconds...by the time I'm done fooling around with my LD3 something else will be out.

[Bishop]

I'm not a fan of belt drive, I'm not even 100% sure why, something about so many separate moving belts, cogs, extra bearings etc, maybe cool for really hardcore racing machines like the 1/8 onroad crowd, but perhaps just overkill for touring 1/10th?, too much drag, way to many parts, and really ineffective use of available space are all real issues...

And I have said it before, but it's worth saying again, when I saw the Nitro TC3 come out, I knew for a fact it would start a trend.
And then it was just a case of waiting for "another" car to show up that I liked, cause those damn TC3s hit the shelfs at insane prices here, and I hit the roof when I saw them... *lol*

I must say though, I am rather relieved that it did happen, selling that "just acquired" TS4N a couple of years back looked a little crazy to some, but really, I saw what I considered to be a superior design, and just refused to get anything else till I could get what I wanted.
Err, I did get distracted along the way though, spent a bit to much time and cash on cars of the real kind...

It has occurred to me that after reading a fair bit of general posted info on the TC3/LD3's, the move to 2 shafts, like in buggies etc, could be more to do with durability than anything else, as one complaint I have seen regarding both the TC3 and LD3 is just that it seems a lot of people bust a shaft every now and then.
I personally think single shaft is more space efficient, but durability could win out over that???

Oh and I just ordered 2 back issues of RC mags with the LD3 on test, but it now looks like I could be waiting for up to 2 months to get them, so could anyone tell me how the LD3 has done in general in RC mag tests?, and what they said about it?
Thanks guys.

[Gyro Gearloose]

I don't know about the dual shaft solution(?), now there are two to break. I don't 'see' any improvement in balance, although there must be or they wouldn't have come up with the new design. It will be interesting to see one up close, which will probably be never since the only LD3 I've seen at my track has been mine.

I think the belt drive is a very viable solution, or else it wouldn't be so popular, and it has won it's share of world championships.
In fact I'd have to say the shaft drive is the one that's an inefficient use of space on the small 1/10 chassis. Everything has to be above the chassis in a shaft drive, not so with belts. That's the reason they're used on 1/8ths, it's lighter and lower and simpler.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Oh, I got the 300,000 wt diff lube today(Along with the rest of the stuff from Tower), Spenzalii, man that stuff is thick!

[ta02]

hey guys, im deciding between a ld3 and a ntc3. my shop stocks ntc3 parts so im leaning tword that. is the ld3 and better?

[Gyro Gearloose]

Better? I don't know, I think it's more durable with the gear diffs and a little beefier chassis.

Are you talking kits or RTR cars?

[ta02]

well. ill probably get a rtr because i dont want to go through the hassle. and the rtr is only like 40 more than the kit ntc3. and when i looked for a 2nd fm reciever for my mx3 it was 80$ :eek: . ill probably get a rtr. ld3 or ntc3 is the question.

[Gyro Gearloose]

I'd say get the LD3 then, I think it's considerally better than the TC3 RTR. Full bearings, thicker chassis, about the same top speed(45-50mph). Gear diffs over the ball diffs, cheaper price. You won't have any trouble getting parts, like from Ace hobbies or Nitrohouse. I bought a set of basic spare parts(Arms, shock towers, clutch etc..) off eBay, I haven't broke anything yet, though, and the car has been airborn a couple times.:p

Both are decent cars, I'm sure the TC3 is a hoot to play with out of the box just like the LD3 was for me.

[jerseyevo]

hi all,
is it just my carb or does everyone seem to have trouble adjusting the force redhead?
mine seems very tempermental or touchy,hard to get a steady idle.
i checked all the hi and lo speed needle o-rings,i resealed the carb neck and backplate and its a little better but gas seems to saturate the rubber boot on the slide barrel,is this normal?
also when i throttle it, it will die out..is it running rich? or is the low-speed?
also what should the hi-speed needle be set at? and what temps shouldi be at?
thanks for any help!

[spenzalii]

The Redhead? Quite a few problems with them from time to time. Seal it up, hope for the best. When you can, ditch the engine...

NTC3 or LD3? Comes down to ball diffs vs. gear diffs and parts. The rear toe problem has been fixed (assuming you are talking about the latest version of the NTC3) and the 2 speed comes with it now, but the diff cases/shock towers are stil suspect. As for parts, do you want to get them shipped or get them from your LHS? If you stock up on the usual stuff, you will be cool.

Of course, being in this thread, you have a pretty good idea what we're gonna say...And yes, that stuff is thick. But the car will turn in better and come out the corner much better...

[Gyro Gearloose]

Oh mighty king of the LD3 thread(:p)...or whoever can answer...

I'm trying to locate the large wings for my TC bodies, you know, the big ones we see at the track, the wing on my LD3 bodies hardly even looks like a wing next to those things.

I have the Pro line high and low downforce wings that I picked up off eBay, they're nice and are definately 'deeper' in profile than the ones on my RTR bodies, but still not the air buckets I see everyone using.

Where can I get them?

[jerseyevo]

could'nt you make them?
im sure you could whip something up with a sheet of lexan and a can of pactra. :)

[Gyro Gearloose]

I don't think so Jersey, these are not just a flat plate that's been curved, they have the flat end plates and in most cases fences inboard to keep airflow straight. I sure would like to have two or three. I'm sure they're made by one of the body manufacturers, just don't know which one(s). Usually I can find anything on eBay but I haven't seen these. Let me see if I can find a good pic of one...

Similar to the wing in post #6, maybe they only come with bodies when you buy them, I don't know...see why I call them air buckets? Virtually everyone is running a wing like that or similar at my track...

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169148&page=1

[jerseyevo]

maybe one of these?.....
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYR3&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU717&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZR91&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2732&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDB85&P=0

[jerseyevo]

what would be a good "drop in" engine replacement for the ld3?
i want to keep the same side exaust and recoil setup.

[Gyro Gearloose]

That parma wing in the last link looks kind of interesting, as does the HPI in the first link. Too bad Tower's shipping is almost as much as the wings themselves. :p
I'll have to wait and ask some people, I didn't think of it last time I was at the track.
Thanks for the links.:)


How much do you like fiddling, Jersey? If you don't mind wrenching and making some adjustments to your car's throttle servo and motor mounts the Picco Omega(Pull start rated at 1.1 hp) that I'm running right now is pretty strong for around $80 shipped usually, sometime even less.( From a reputable eBay seller, no rip offs). The OFNA pipe bolts right up.

I don't know of many drop in type engines, most require slight adjustments, raising or grinding the mounts, cutting the crank usually etc. You have a dremel?

I'll post some pics of my car later, image host is down right now and I don't have the pics on my PC anymore to attach them here. :o

[jerseyevo]

thanks gyro,
i dont mind wrenching but no cutting and i do have a dremel.
its too bad that the redhead is a lame motor,i just cant seem to get a stable idle out of her after trying everything,its a shame because this thing is new!
ofna needs to do something about this i also emailed them my engine complaints such as the steering link rubbing on the drive shaft and servo.
ps you could also try a spoiler from a 1/8 on road if you want larger.

[Gyro Gearloose]

I have the add on wings for 1/8 on roads(I have two Serpent 950's) and they're a completely different thing, they rivet on to the back of the body, they are more like a plate of lexan than any 'wing' shaped thing.


Yeah, I had to cut the crank on my Picco and trim some off the ends of my motor mounts, the car flies though and it was worth it to me. If I'd known what was involved when I first started I could've done it in an evening easy, as it was it only took me a couple evenings.

http://img9.photobucket.com/albums/v27/lola_gt/Nitro/LD3_001.jpg

http://img9.photobucket.com/albums/v27/lola_gt/Nitro/LD3_003.jpg

Note: I have my slide carb off my Picco XP comp on the engine because I had it and it was an easy swap, using the rotary carb would've been no problem by just flipping the servo and using a straight horn instead of the L shaped one.(I would've needed to put a ball on the rotary carb's throttle arm too, again, no biggie)

[spenzalii]

Trim the motor mount? That's a new one...

The ammount of work needed to swap the motor really depends on what motor you get. The optimal setup is a RE engine with a SG shaft. For a pullstart, you have to watch for 2 things? the size of the pull start backplate and the length of the threads (if it's a standard shaft)

For instance, with my OS I had to use the drive dog washer that came with the engine (the little grooved piece that goes right before the flywheel) in order for the flywheel to fit and keep from cutting the shaft at all. The main problem was the pullstart. The plate was so big it would hit the chasis. A few shims under the motor mount cured the problem.

If you can, find the motor you want and post it here. We'll probably be able to let you know what you have to do to get it to fit before you make your purchase.

Oh yeah, nice pics. Ditch those tires...

[Gyro Gearloose]

Yup, had to trim off about 1/8 inch off the ends facing the front of the car, pull start plate wouldn't allow the engine to sit where it needed to be, was no biggie, I had access to a bench grinder that made it a two minute job, a hack saw would've worked too.

The tires are just to hold the car off whatever, I have bunches of foam race tires.;)

[jerseyevo]

will this os engine fit?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA45&P=ML

[spenzalii]

Yes, but you will have to shim it as I mentioned above.

[jerseyevo]

still no help form ofna..
my steering servo horn linkage rubs on the servo and the other end rubs the driveshaft when turning either way.
the redhead engine is crap... period.
the throttle linkage (yellow servo horn)still binds up against the brake collar even still after i shimmed it.
this thing is only 3-4 weeks old!
i have other nitro cars and never had these issues with them,its sad.
unhappy with this product and ofna tech support.
dont know what to do now?

[spenzalii]

Don't fret too much. These are some minor adjustments I believe.

On teh steering: you can put one of the plastic spacers on between the servo and the horn. Also, the servo mounts either on the chasis or on the radio tray. Try mounting it to the chasis. That should lower it a bit

[jerseyevo]

thanks but i tried all that with no change..
i went ahead and changed the factory airtronics servo to a futaba and that solved the problem.
thanks again.

[spenzalii]

Didn't think about that, especially since I already had a Futaba on mine anyway. Go figure...I hope you sort out the transmisison problems

And the Force is a dog, being nice. They seem to be hit or miss; for every 3 people that don't have a problem with theirs, one does. That's why mine is in a box right now.

[jerseyevo]

well i had them both out yesterday and they performed equally well to my surprise,the only problem i had was i bent the r/front cvd axle on the ld3 by hitting a small peice of wood and the wheel still spun perfectly straight and smooth! i would have never known the damage unless i had taken the body off.
the ld3 redhead is very tricky to set and tune,i will eventually use it as a paperweight..lol

[jerseyevo]

why did they switch everything around?
i thought the single shaft was better..
i see they finally added a rollbar/handle also.
just dont understand why they are still using that .12 redhead/ache engine.
http://www.ofna.com/cd3.html

[Gyro Gearloose]

I agree, looks like they're trying to be HPI. I think the single shaft is better myself, it's not like they're adding anything but complexity. I'm not sure why that's supposed to be better, or even if it will be. Maybe it's a balance deal, but my LD3 balances well now.
We'll see. I won't be buying one, I won't even see one because no one drives an OFNA car but me at my track. .

Spenzalii, do you know if this will replace the LD3 or will OFNA have both cars?(I never thought of that, I hope the LD3 isn't being phased out now!) :confused:

[jerseyevo]

ofna or hong nor just dont make sense to me..
do they have spies at hpi?
there even releasing another 1/10 on-road nitro which happens to be belt driven!
im glad to see that they did away with the redhead/ache on this one.

[Bishop]

I think the Force .12 is an ok engine (had one once before myself), it gets kind of a rough rep because you strike the odd one that it difficult to tune (usually due to air leaks), but you have to remember it puts out as much power as some OS motors, and in some places it's less than half the price.

The new belt drive car from OFNA has nothing to do with Hong Nor, it's a Ho Bao, and I'm not so sure it will be any threat to the Hong Nor cars, I went to the Ho Bao site and some of their stuff looks kind of cheap to me, so I'm not sure how good the new model could be.

And Hong Nor already has a belt drive car anyway, the OB4 Nitro, they still make it, but not many people sell it anymore, probally because it's just a little out of date now.
I don't think Hon Nor will just stop making the LD3 when the CD3 comes out either, they will just have it as another "version" of the car, I mean a lot of the car is still the same anyway, it's more just a layout option really.
If you look at their electric car range, I think they have like 3 difffrent layout options for the OB4 electric.
But then for you guys I supose we are talking about an importer, meaning they could decide they may not want to carry that many diffrent cars???

[spenzalii]

I believe the LD3 and the CD3 will be sold alongside each other. That way people will have a choice between a single shaft car (a la NTC3) and a mid mount, double shaft car, (a la Kyosho FW-05, which the CD3 is closer to than the RS4 3SS). The nice thing is, the suspension is the same, so parts support will be just fine (since that's what will break more than anything else).

Jersey: Ofna is the US importer for Hong Nor and Ho Bao. Hong Nor makes the LD3/CD3/OB4/Titan/9.5, and Ho Bao made the Z10/Hyper GP4/Hyper 7/Dominator (the belt drive car you saw). If you think about it, it makes sense to import both cars. Some people prefer belts, some shaft. If you provide both at a competetive price point, you cover all bases. As for the redhed, as I mentioned, it's hit or miss. If you can find a OS carb for it, that may solve a lot of your problems. However, all things being equal, I'd save up and buy a good motor.

I will probably get a CD3, but only when the Pro version comes out (I want to build mine this time) and only if the .08 gears come with it. Ofna has a bad habit of showing a decked out version as the 'pro' car and then not releasing it at all (like the LD3)

[Bishop]

The Z10 is Hong Nor, Ho Bao make something called the Hyper 10, which looks even older than the Z10 design...

Once I get my LD3, I think curiosity will get the better of me and I will have to buy a CD3 just to see how they compare back to back, it could be interesting.

One thing I really like with the CD3, is that they kept the radio tray insert, and battery tray insert on the stock model, it's something that I think is a big selling point for the likes of Hong Nor and of course the NTC3, I kind of loathe cars that really don't seem to have a "proper" place for everything, I don't know why so many car makers overlook how appealing something like that can be, even on high end models?

[spenzalii]

Simple, the inserts add weight, and in the quest for the lightest, strongest car, those will get the boot. Personally, I prefer to have a place and some protection for my electronics, but I'm not in it to the point I'd notice the weight savings.

[jerseyevo]

where is everyone at?
did you all get fedup with the ld3 and put them in the closet as i did?

[Gyro Gearloose]

did you all get fedup with the ld3 and put them in the closet as i did?

Almost there, Jersey, but I'm giving them(OFNA/Nitrohouse) a fair chance. It's not a lot of fun yet like it should be. I can't seem to get all the parts I need to build my threaded shocks, it's not raceable with the RTR shocks, really.

I might have to list it on eBay and look elsewhere for a 1/10 on road RC.

[Nightmare_au]

I need to build my threaded shocks, it's not raceable with the RTR shocks, really.


OFNA must of had a heap of "cool" lexan shocks spare. Here the LD3 STD and RIP versions have the same shocks as the Pro (the threaded ones).

where is everyone at?
did you all get fedup with the ld3 and put them in the closet as i did?

The rctech LD3 forum :) Mines outside just about to get a blow down from the action on the w/end.

[Gyro Gearloose]

I'm about halfway through the rc-tech thread, I read a page or two every once in a while.

[jerseyevo]

my ld3 is in the closet..i have been playing with my new yokomo gt4 2 rtr.
its incredible!
my stable of on road cars and ratings 1 through 5, 1 being the best-
ofna ld3-rate 4.
hpi rs4 evo-rate 2.
yokomo gt4 -rate 1.
hpi savage 25-rate 1.
i only wish ofna had better tech support and customer service as hpi does,
i will never buy another ofna vehicle.

[Nsxshogun]

Hey spen wad up what did you ever do with that motor ive been broke for a while but now I go lil bread and want to see if you would sell it to me im trying to get both cars up and running.

[spenzalii]

Man Jersey, I hate to see you drop the Ofna like that. Quite a few people have had pretty good success with their car. I guess it's what you make of it and where you look for the parts. For the most part, I haven't had any more problems with my Ofna than people do with ANY car, and as for the parts, I haven't had a problem either getting them from my LHS or from Nitrohouse, which is the best place to get parts from in the US. Since we race on weekends, if I order Monday, I will have them in time for the weekend race, and I'm on the opposite coast from them!

As for tech support and customer service, I haven't found a problem that required it. Most of the things that happened I either figured out or a trip to the hobby shop or the message board solved the problem. Unless it's a factore defect, I really find no reason to contact Ofna. As far as the engine (which I'm sure was one of your bigger problems), it had an earned reputation long before they put it in the LD3 for being a bit troublesome. Therefore, I expected problems there and anticipated replacing it. Looking how their imports are set up, I understand why they included it (a whole other toipc). But it was a small price to pay for a car loaded with otherwise optional equpiment for such a nice price. Besides, most people chuck the RTR motor anyway...

This isn't really to change your mind any. If you thing the RS4 is a better car for you, fine and well. I couldn't see it in a million years, which is why I didn't buy one. The Yok is a fine car, true, but parts support for it, in my area, is much worse. The Savage is a monster truck, so I can't even compare. BUt I, and a few others, really feel the LD3 is much better than you give it credit for. Oh well. If it's really giving you that many problems, put it on Ebay and someone will take it off your hands.

As for mine, we had our race today. Although I had some issues with my front diff case, I managed to take first place in my class. Mine isn't going in teh closet for storage anytime soon...

[Nsxshogun]

So spen what about the Motor.

[spenzalii]

Motor...right. Let me unbury it and let you know.

[jerseyevo]

im basically saying that when you spend hard earned money on a brand new ofna ld3 rtr and have trouble or defects with everything on the car is not good especially when the manufacturer leaves you in the dark or gives you the run around.
hpi has superior customer support,the best i have encountered,
im not saying the rs4 is better than the ld3 just the company behind it is.
the ld3 will sit in the closet untill i get a replacement engine and cvd axle,
the other design flaws i took care of without help from ofna.
its a shame it has to be this way with a brand new car and i let everyone and there mother know about my experience with ofna,
for now i enjoy my rs4 and yokomo.

[spenzalii]

Design flaws? You may want to expound on that one...

Replacement engine: understandable. Most people chuck the RTR engine within a month anyway in the search for more power, and the Force 12 has that reputation, as mentioned. CVD axle? Unless it came bent, which I doubt, that gets chalked up to driver error, which could happen with any car. Does the RS4 even have CVDs? I remember you mentioning linkage problems. Those usually need a touch of tweaking, be it RTR or kit built.

Ofna customer support? Well, I've heard good and bad on that one, so I'll give you that. But I'm pretty sure any question you had could have been answered by someone local or figured out yourself. Personally, I haven't called them for anything, but I did e-mail them about the lack of a carry handle, more a nit pick than anything else. Any other problem or concern just didn't seem worth calling the company on. For the most part, I took it as part of the hobby, and something I would have to do if I had actually BUILT the car, which is part of the fun for me.

Again, not trying to rag on you, or say you're wrong. If you like the HPI better, drive that thing until the pruple comes off it. Just trying to show you a different side of it.

[Gyro Gearloose]

I did call them, got things straightened out and my shock parts are on the way, they'd better be really nice smooth shocks though, at that price.
I haven't had any major problems with my car, just frustrations that are as much user error than any problems on OFNA's part. I knew what I was getting into when I bought the car. I knew the only support would be my own brain and some guy 2000 miles away that may or may not know about my car if I had to call him. It's cool, my car has no major problems, it's fast and I can already tell it will keep up with the Chevys(TC3's), I just need to learn it, drive it, and tune it to my driving style.

[jerseyevo]

how is everyone and there ld3?
my force redhead is still not running right.

[Nsxshogun]

If its still not running rite just save for a new motor cause if if it wasnt running rite off the start forget it.

[jerseyevo]

yea it never did run right no matter what i did..
only had about 2 quarts through it.
i resealed the backplate and carbthroat,tried different glow plugs,rebuilt the slidecarb,tried different fuels,tried retuning every which way but still that redhead/ache would not run correctly.
i have it mounted in a dummy chassis that i use to break in my engines.
i installed a hpi T-15 engine in my ld3 and its awesome!

[Gyro Gearloose]

My LD3 hasn't been ran for over three weeks because of the every other week alternating thing between on road and off at my track(s), no racing the Fourth of July so I missed out on that week. Hoping to get there this weekend but I think the 1:1 vehicle needs a front end alignment and that comes before the 1:10 car.:p

[nick51]

wuts plugs should be used with the .12 engine, and does any one have any two speed gears they wanna sell me, i need them

[Gyro Gearloose]

OS#8 plugs, or long types like MC 8 or 9's with two coppers on them.
Check Nitrohouse for spur gears.

[nick51]

is there a pull start for the .12 picco engine

[Gyro Gearloose]

The one that comes with the pro kit? I don't think so. You can't add one on easily without a pullstart crank I think.

[nick51]

anyone have a starter box they wanna sell me lol??

[Gyro Gearloose]

LOL! Sounds like you're in a bind, Nick. Are you parking lot running or do you have a track to run at?

[spenzalii]

hmmm...nick, you didn't happen to trade someone for that LD3, did you?
Also try the O'donnell plugs. I love them. Oh, and with that Picco, only use 1 copper washer.
Good to see you haven't tossed that LD3 yet Jersey
NSX, still got that CVR for you. We race next Sunday

[nick51]

yea i traded for it and it looks awsome, just a couple things i have to do it, so then only right? ok

[spenzalii]

Let me guess, for a Sprint and a Rustler?

[Gyro Gearloose]

Oh, I was thinking of the Force .12 when you asked about plugs, Nick. Sorry.

Looks like no racing this weekend, next race in two weeks. It(LD3 RTR) hasn't been worth the hassles yet.:( Maybe if I'd gone with the pro from the start, but hindsight is always perfect. Actually, if I'd went with a TC3 I'd have made every race weekend I'm sure, parts availability is a huge part of this and when even simple things aren't easy as they should be to get fast it just doesn't work out as well. Not like I didn't know that coming in, I'm just stating a fact. I'm not unhappy with my car, really.

[spenzalii]

Oh, I was thinking of the Force .12 when you asked about plugs, Nick. Sorry.

Looks like no racing this weekend, next race in two weeks. It(LD3 RTR) hasn't been worth the hassles yet.:( Maybe if I'd gone with the pro from the start, but hindsight is always perfect. Actually, if I'd went with a TC3 I'd have made every race weekend I'm sure, parts availability is a huge part of this and when even simple things aren't easy as they should be to get fast it just doesn't work out as well. Not like I didn't know that coming in, I'm just stating a fact. I'm not unhappy with my car, really.


Er? What problems there? MInd you, I had my share, so don't think I don't understand or sympathize. But, like you, I went into buying this thing eyes wide open, so I knew what the deal would be. I still think it's tougher than the TC3 and happy I bought one, problems and all. As for buying the pro, that wasn't an option for me, since it wasn't out when I bought mine...

[nick51]

Let me guess, for a Sprint and a Rustler?
lol, yes it was for my rustler and sprint

[nick51]

and so 1 washer with mccoy 9 or 8

[jerseyevo]

im using 2 washers with my OS8 plug.

[jerseyevo]

anybody have pics of the new gt4..
i wonder if it has the hyper engine?

[Gyro Gearloose]

Actually, if I'd went with a TC3 I'd have made every race weekend I'm sure, parts availability is a huge part of this and when even simple things aren't easy as they should be to get fast it just doesn't work out as well. Not like I didn't know that coming in, I'm just stating a fact. I'm not unhappy with my car, really.

Just making a statement the way I see it, Spen, nothing more, nothing less. As I said, I'm not unhappy with my car.




Got a link to the GT4 Jersey?

[jerseyevo]

guess what guys!
just when i was at the end of my rope i went ahead a used a brand new OS8 glow plug with only "ONE" washer and its running great! i cant beleive it! :D
i also purchased a new fuel that my lhs carries with there own name on it,i tried it in all my cars and they all run awesome with it.
ps i just may have to look into this cd3 now or an extra ld3 roller..lol.
if anyone is having trouble with the redhead try this....
use a OS 8 glow plug with 1 washer and my needle settings are,
-hi-speed= 1 3/4 turns out.
- low-speed=flush with carb and 1/4 turn in.
- idle opening 2mm.
my temps are 180-220.

[nick51]

i have the .12 picco engine, pink head, so how many washer

[duratraxman]

alright, i have decide on two nitro on road cars, either the NTC3 or the LD-3. im going to check my local hobby show to see if they back the LD-3 (cuz i know they back the NTC3). what do you thinks is a better, choice for bashing and having fun. i do want to upgrade motors and such. any input will help me on my decesion. THANK YOU!!!

[Gyro Gearloose]

i have the .12 picco engine, pink head, so how many washer

You need to use a regular length plug with one washer. Don't use the O.S #8, it is too short. Use an MC9 or 8, or something similar.

[spenzalii]

DTman: Either will be a good choice. LD3 I believe is the better value, but parts support will be the make or break thing. If your lhs supports it, run with it. If not, and you don't mind buying your parts online, still go for it. (as a general rule of thumb, it's a good idea to get some spare parts off the top for any car, just in case. It makes those race day track side repairs that much easier)

GG: got you. Figured as much. Methinks most people on the board are happy with their purchase, more or less.

Jerser: good to know you have the engine running again and you're happy. The little things will make you want to burn your car, but when it works, it's all worth it. You still will want to swap that motor at some point (probably when you get tired of being run down on the straights...).

Nick: go for a hot plug in whatever brand your lhs carries. That should do that Picco good. If they have the O'Donnell plugs, I highly recommend those as well.

No running for me today, as the rain yesterday has the area soaked and more predicted for the afternoon. Time to wrench on the car instead.

CD3 is coming...

[Gyro Gearloose]

Spen? You run/ran a centax(power clutch)? It's looking like you use all the shims back and front? At least that's where I seem to be.

Just curious, I need to find my feeler gauges(means I can't find them and I'll have to buy another set.:p) but I can tell pretty much what it should be and it seems close, I'm guessing it's .05 mm at least at the moment. Not going to run it for a while and I'll make sure before I do, I'm bored tonight and assembling my race engine with the LS-08 kit. ;)




And this forum change kind of stinks, what'd they do that for?

[spenzalii]

NAh, no centax for me yet. When the CD3 comes out, I'll get the Pro which should have it then. Just don't see the need of spending $150+ for the whole setup when the current one works fine for me for now.

[jerseyevo]

a good day of running yesterday, my ld3 runs flawlessly!
i am still using a os8 plug with 1 washer and she starts right up on the second pull and will idle smoothly forever without stalling..i love it.
my question is what diff oils would be good for casual parking lot racing?
my ld3 seems to fishtail too much when im on the throttle and have trouble keeping it straight or even turning,i even blew apart a rear tire.
or do you think i should stay with the grease in both diffs?

[1 Bad STi]

centax, dang exspensive. :eek:


NAh, no centax for me yet. When the CD3 comes out, I'll get the Pro which should have it then. Just don't see the need of spending $150+ for the whole setup when the current one works fine for me for now.

zali, when you gonna get some new pix up man?? catch ya on aim..

[Grifter]

I havent run my LD3 in awhile. Does anyone know the average operating temps. for a Fantom .15?

Thanks.

[spenzalii]

Ditch the grese and go with dome diff oil. 100k in the rear should keep it a bit more planted

I'm guessing temps should be around 220-250, more or less

STi, those pics are coming, I promise. Besides, you still need a TC!

[jerseyevo]

thanks spenz!
and what oil up front?

[spenzalii]

300K. Associated sells it. It's so think you have to spoon it in. Just trust me, it works well

[Grifter]

Thanks. I was thinking around that temp as well.

[franknitty69]

is the cd3 newer than the ld3? which one is the more 'high-end' vehicle.

thanks

[spenzalii]

The CD3 is newer than the LD3, especially since it's not released just yet! The tranny in the CD3 is closer to the center of the chasis, a la the Kyosho FW-05.

[hyperstang]

Basically, it's OFNA's version of the FW05. I heard that there is a conversion for this for the LD3?

Race on...

[spenzalii]

There is, but it's hard to find. I would wait until the CD3 pro actually drops

[McKB]

the LD-3 Pro to CD-3 Pro is available at rc-mushroom for $93. it doesn't come with the centax though. i'd probly wait for the cd-3 pro kit. i believe the cd-3 uses all the same suspension and diff's at either end so if you get the cd-3 kit then you'd at least have some spare parts.

[Grifter]

So...is the CD-3 "better" than the LD3?

[jerseyevo]

depends if you like the center single driveshaft(like the ntc3),
or a center trans. with 2 center driveshafts.
i prefer the cd3 over the ld3.

[Grifter]

Oh I see. Thanks.

[McKB]

OFNA claims that the CD-3 is better, by looking at the design i'd agree with them. you get a great quality kit with the centax and 0.8 gearing, the center drive diff and a bigger pipe selection with the design. In my eyes it's a great kit. the upgrade from the stock clutch to the centax pretty much covers the cost difference of the ld-3 to the cd-3 and on top of that you get the 0.8 gearing.

[fishstix]

I'm looking to get into the dirt oval racing. I heard that the ntc3 runs on dirt ovals and was wondering what I would have to do to get my ld3 into the class?? Also if anyone has any setup sheets would also be greatly appreciated.

[Grifter]

I havent even read it yet but I'm just letting you guys know that the CD3 Pro RTR is reviewed in Xtreme RC Car nmag. Just looking over it it scored all 8.5 and 9's. I'm going to read the article as soon as I get a chance.

[jerseyevo]

yea plus threaded shocks too!

[nick51]

any one have any problems hooken up the brake linkage with the picco .12 pink head? I still dont have brakes and now i have to replace my gears cause they stripped when i was spining donuts and i was pissed cause this was my second day runnin the car and i just replaced the gears too

[spenzalii]

I havent even read it yet but I'm just letting you guys know that the CD3 Pro RTR is reviewed in Xtreme RC Car nmag. Just looking over it it scored all 8.5 and 9's. I'm going to read the article as soon as I get a chance.

Which issue? I thought the latest one had the review of the LST. I must be behind...

[Grifter]

It's the October issue. I think the LST was reviewed awhile ago, but I'm not sure. There's a Tamiya Evo on the cover with a Green CTS-V body.

Great article, they basically said it was awesome and the price was great.

[McKB]

any one have any problems hooken up the brake linkage with the picco .12 pink head? I still dont have brakes and now i have to replace my gears cause they stripped when i was spining donuts and i was pissed cause this was my second day runnin the car and i just replaced the gears too
What exactly was your problem when you were hooking the linkage up? My linkage was to short for some reason so i had to swap it out for a longer one.

[spenzalii]

It's the October issue. I think the LST was reviewed awhile ago, but I'm not sure. There's a Tamiya Evo on the cover with a Green CTS-V body.

Great article, they basically said it was awesome and the price was great.

Just picked it up last week. Nice, but I want the Pro or Team version. May as well get the 0.8 gears and the carbon fiber all at once

[hammadown]

hey....... i have an ld3 rtr with power start...... this car is awesome!!!!!! i have an ld3 pro kit coming just for parts :D and my CD3 PRO rtr should be here any day now :eek: sssssssshhhh dont tell ;)


hammadown

[jhec23]

is this a good deal? I just won it today

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5921068499

[charlesd]

My Cd3 just arrived !!!!!!!!!! I can't wait to build this car.

Yes, 174$ for an ld3 + all the equipement is good.

[Bishop]

I just got my CD3 a few days ago, I must say I'm impressed with the design, and apart from a little gripe with a not so perfect flat chassis plate, it's good quality kit.

Can't wait to get mine out on the track.

[hammadown]

the manual only gives length of turnbuckles.it doesnt give droop settings or downstop/droop settings or ride height settings.... i have both the ld3 rtr and the ld3 pro....i also have the HUDY all-in-one setup system....(sweet) but when i am setting the droop or downstop and the the ride height , in that order......the hudy set up guide tells me to refer to ofnas set up guide for that car...but all that is in the manual is turnbuckle lenght's, toe, and some sort of crude way of setting camber so with out a starting point im stopped in my tracks i run on semi smooth ashpalt lots and run nitro shoes and hpi belted slicks. any help specificly for the ld3 would be great!!!!!

thanx hammadownn

[I_Like_F150s]

Just wanted to share my experiences of installing one of the Team Infinity Katana engines being imported by RD Logics. I bought the 312TB, 3-port Turbo version and paid about $110.

The first thing I did was remove the goofy carb riser. It would probably leak just looking at it. I then sent the engine to a friend to have it modified. He said the only thing it needed was a cut on the sleeve, the crank was already modified.

After the engine was in the car, the large ring on the end of the slide carb was hitting the brake. No matter how the carb was turned, it still hit. Maybe that's why it had the goofy riser. This would probably not present a problem on cars other than the LD3.

As luck would have it, the carb from the stock Force .12 fit the engine perfectly. It's currently on it's third tank of fuel and is running great. I'm using the RD Logic pipe.

Hope this helps.

[Grifter]

is this a good deal? I just won it today

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5921068499

Sweet deal. How did the car turn out?

[OferFisher]

is the car good?

[Greg15]

I just bought my LD3 Pro. Is it worth getting the CD3 conversion kit? What are the advantages?

[jerseyevo]

there are no advantages.
its a matter of preferance if you like a rear mounted tranny or center mounted tranny.

[Greg15]

About the only reason I'd look at the conversion is a better looking and flowing exhaust. Comes down to $$ thou if the kit is worth it. I can't see any other reasons for a change.

[jerseyevo]

personally i like my ld3 with side exaust,
not crazy about that tuba looking exaust for the rear exasut engine.

[Greg15]

Yea, I don't like the exhaust with my RB engine.

[Grifter]

Hello again my fellow LD3er's. I haven't run my baby in awhile, and now I can't because of the weather.

Anyway, does anyone know if the Vantage Carbon Fiber pipe will fit on the LD3. By the looks of it it doesn't seem like it will. I'm scared to buy a pipe now becasuse I rushed into buying the Fantom pipe only to find out it didn't fit.

[spenzalii]

I'm assuming you have a side exhaust engine here...

My first tip would be to measure the length of the pipe, and then look at the header. If the pipe is short enough, it shold fit like the stock pipe. But if it's too long, it will rub the front wheel.

[Grifter]

spen what the heck's going on!? Long time no talk.

Yeah I was planning on doing that, I was so bummed out when I got the Fantom pipe and saw it was for 1/10 Truck.

Yeah, side exhaust Fantom .15.

What do you think of the pipe?

[spenzalii]

The carbon fiber pipe is interesting, to say the least. I hear it's great for low end, but loses just a bit up top.

Yes, it's been a while. After the race season ended, I just put my stiff in the closet and let it sit. I'm starting the rebuild for this season now. I'm debating on going to the CD3 and having the LD3 as a backup. I just have to decide on an engine...