OFNA LD-3 Nitro Touring

[spenzalii]

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN6623

They sell the header, but not for a one piece set up.

[Grifter]

Yeah I noticed that. Vantage's pipe is for a one piece header, so it'll work.

[Badboy88]

What kind of battery pack does the CD3 will take??



Badboy88

[spenzalii]

I'm hearing the flat pack for the rtr and pro rtr, but the pro kit may need the pack that fits the MTX3

[Bishop]

I'm using a hump pack in my Sport level CD3, I'm not sure there would be enough room in the compartment for a flat pack and the receiver?
If you check out the CD3 pdf at ofna, they show/recomend a hump pack...

[Badboy88]

Ok ty


Badboy88

[fishstix]

I will be racing my ld3 this race season. I have the stock springs. The road course will be on asphalt with vht put down for traction. The track has not been setup yet but we will be racing in a different location.

My question is what spring(soft or hard and front and rear) would I need to have for racing??

Also will the TC3 Spring set work for the ld3? This is what my lhs stocks.

Thanks in advance.

[thehappyone]

Hi im looking at one of these right now. Tower hobbies has a great deal going right now. I just got a nitro truck but im looking for some more speed. I was wonderin if any one knows of any other cars that offers pretty much what this one does for around the same price range like 200-250 range. Tower has it for 220 rtr (on order)with glow starter and a carring bag and fuel bottle.

[McKB]

Nitrohouse have the same kit for $199 , or you can get the two speed the for $255,

[thehappyone]

Thank you

[McKB]

No Problem, I'm sure you wont be disapointed. :)

[thehappyone]

Im just waitin for them to get it in stock im gona get it right when they get it in. I have one question what kind of speed am i lookin at out of the box? My stadium truck does like 35mph.

[McKB]

I'm not sure exaclty since i've never used the RTR, but from other forums i've heard about 40-45.

[spenzalii]

That would be pretty close, but you will be wringing the heck out of that Force 12.

I like the stiff springs on there myself (stiffer up front)

[Grifter]

I finally got to run my car with the Fantom pipe, it's so loud! But I slid into a curb and shattered a rim, I shouldn't have been driving when it was 40 degrees outside. :)

[spenzalii]

That would be wise...

Race season is upon os. T&T April 3 (it's gonna rain), 1st race April 17. The LD3 is getting a complete rebuild (new arms all around, redo the shocks, replace rear diff, stainless steel screws, and new engine, which sould keep me in the hunt) and a new shell by then. Let the games begin!

[brelandt]

I just bought my LD3 from Nitrohouse this week. Got the RTR with failsafe and electric start. I'm just a basher so no need fore a PRO.
I started breaking it in yesterday and was driving the figure 8's. MAN was this thing wonderful to drive! I have tons of off roads but this is my first onroad. The steering is so much better than my 1/8 buggy! Goes straight and turns on a dime!
Awesome car!
2 questions....
#1 how do you remove and install the battery cover with out removing the servo horn? it's nearly impossible!
#2 My frontend is bouncing off the ground. Either the spring is way to hard for my driving surface or I need help adjusting it. What's the recommendation here?

Oh nearly forgot. I love to keep the electric start but man that slow Force .12 has got to go. Has anyone been able to use it on the Hyper .12?
Thanks guys!

[spenzalii]

On that battery cover: it is a tight fit, but it is possible to open it without removing the servo horn. Your best bet: invest in a rechargeable pack asap. Then, there's no need to go in there! If you swap the switch, you can get one with a built in charge jack. If not, you can just unplug it from the receiver and charge it there.

As for the springs, the stock black springs are a bit on the light side, as is the stock oil. For now, go to some heavier oil (50-60 works well) and try to pick up the optional springs.

Not too sure on that auto start on the Hyper 12, I went bumpstart and never looked back.

[brelandt]

Thanks man! I have the optional switch you are talking about still sitting in my toolbox. Just waiting for me to get off the couch to install it!
I'm going to see about the shock oil. As it is right now at half throttle and when the 2nd gear kicks in it's going fast enough to get all 4 tires way off the ground when I hit some of the bumps on my street. I guess I need to find a smoother surface to drive on.
Still breaking it in, just did the 10 one minute figure eights and started on the other 10 two minute laps. has taken 2 days so far! Can't wait to throw the body on and get to driving this thing! LOL!

[McKB]

I finally got to run my car with the Fantom pipe, it's so loud! But I slid into a curb and shattered a rim, I shouldn't have been driving when it was 40 degrees outside. :)
Did the same thing yesterday :) i'm glad to see those tires finally go. i also broke both pivotballs, and the upper link screw on the back end. I'll have to replace the arm as well since the other half of the pivotballs are still screwed in there. Thank god my CVA survived! those things are expensive :D

[spenzalii]

See, patience is a virtue...

[Grifter]

I went to go test fit my body and noticed that there is more damage than just the rim. The passenger rear(where I hit the curb) is pushed back. I found out the driveshaft is bent but something else is also tweaked. I'm thinking it's either the A-Arm or the pivotball stud. I took the a-arm and pivotballs out but they didn't seem like they were bent, but it's very difficult to tell. Any ideas?

[McKB]

Hmmm. Check your lower arm holders, and the rear hubs where the pivotballs screw in, maybe one of the pivotballs was partially pulled out.

[vegasdrift]

Which ofna car is better? The ld3 or cd3. I plan to do some weekend racing.

[McKB]

The CD-3. Its pretty much the updated version of the LD3

[vegasdrift]

Ok thankyou

[Grifter]

I'm going to order the control arm set from Nitro House and maybe some carbon parts too. :D

[McKB]

The aluminum steering rack? I heard thats a good upgrade. I need to order some a-arms and hubs. Suprisingly i never break the a-arms but my pivot balls always break off in a crash and i have to replace them anyways. I thinking about the NTC3 Titanium ones. But the ofna ones are a pretty good deal.

[Grifter]

I may buy the hubs too, not sure though. Something is tweaked so slightly to cause a problem but it's not visible.

[Grifter]

Does Nitro House list the Pivot balls as just "6mm Balls?"

[McKB]

No the pivot balls are 8mm. Here's how they list them.

39140 8mm BALL END, BLACK 4 PCS.

[Grifter]

Ha, alright thanks.

[McKB]

yep, no problem

[Grifter]

Just ordered the pivot balls, a-arm set and graphite bumper mount. I had to get something carbon. :D

[Grifter]

What are some good tires? I bought a set of rims a while ago but never got tires.

[spenzalii]

if you can, go with some foams.

[McKB]

I just put some HPI x-patterns on mine for some parkinglot fun. A noticable improvement in traction but if you really want traction get foams.

[Grifter]

Foams are good but I'm worried about life span. I'd rather just get some rubber ones that will give me some good grip and last awhile. I don't drive the car enough to care about great traction.

[nick51]

anyone know a basic asphalt set up, my car does not handle wut so ever

[spenzalii]

anyone know a basic asphalt set up, my car does not handle wut so ever

Depends if you are running rubber or foam. I have a decent (for me ) foam setup I can run down later today once I look my car over.

[gogita502]

hey i was wondering is 200 good for a 2 spd power starter rtr ld3???
how fast is it out of the box???

[nick51]

Depends if you are running rubber or foam. I have a decent (for me ) foam setup I can run down later today once I look my car over.
thats exactly what i ws lookin for, foam. LMK when you look over it

[spenzalii]

Let's see what I have here:

LD3

Front
Shock Oil: 60 wt
Shock Position: Outer Hole, Lower Arm, Outer Hole, shock tower
Spring: Ofna Yellow (35 lb)
Camber: -2 degrees (good starting point, adjust for wear)
Suspension Blocks: 0 degrees
Toe : 1 degree toe in (try 1 degree out for a bit more steering)
Caster: 15 degree (both clips to the front!)
Front Diff: 300,000k (or thickest you can find)

Rear
Shock Oil: 60 wt
Shock Position: Outer Hole, Lower Arm; Outer Hole, Shock Tower (middle hole for more rear rotation)
Spring: Ofna Copper (25 lb)
Camber: -2 degrees right, -2.5 to -3 degrees left (check for wear, left will wear quicker than right!!)
Suspension Blocks : 0 degrees
Toe: 0 degrees
Rear Diff: 100,000k

If you can't find that ridiculously thick diff oil, try 120,000k front, 50,000k rear

Tires: Takeof TF 40 shore all round


Hope that helps. The car seemed nice and neutral for me. It went where I pointed it without much drama.

[nitrochubb]

Does anyone know the web site of... I believe the name is GLOBAL. Their in or near Pennsylvania. They are a distributer of high end Novarossi, Rb, and Jp motors. They also do their own modifactions. Please Help!

Thanks

[rc addict]

i thought this car was a copy off of the ntc3 and the cd3 was a copy off of the kyosho fw-05r

[CurveTracer]

How do you tune out some of the understeer. So you proceed with sway bar adjustments or move the upper front shock holes??

[tnbigdawg]

I read every single post in this thread(took me a while). So I just picked up a LD3 RTR(2nd nitro car) from Stormers and the kit seems pretty nice. There are a few things I didn't like:

The steering nuckles are ridiculously too close to the wheels. It seems as though you can't put an engine with a rotary carb into the car because of the positions of the engine and servo??? And the engine sucks period.



Can anyone tell me if you can put an engine with a rotary carb into the car?

[spenzalii]

I read every single post in this thread(took me a while). So I just picked up a LD3 RTR(2nd nitro car) from Stormers and the kit seems pretty nice. There are a few things I didn't like:

The steering nuckles are ridiculously too close to the wheels. It seems as though you can't put an engine with a rotary carb into the car because of the positions of the engine and servo??? And the engine sucks period.



Can anyone tell me if you can put an engine with a rotary carb into the car?

You can use a rotary carb. If you look in your manual, it will show you how to connect the linkage. I think you will need to change the servo horn, but it will work. Why go thru the hassle, pray tell?

And yes, the Force 12 kinda sucks.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Can anyone tell me if you can put an engine with a rotary carb into the car?

Yep, I think you need to flip the servo so you get a better angle to the horn on the carb. It'll work fine, you just need to fiddle with making a new linkange. You might need a ball to go on the carb horn too if you don't have one, depends on what you like for connectors I guess.


Why go thru the hassle, pray tell?

Maybe it's the only thing he has at the moment. ;)

[tnbigdawg]

Why go thru the hassle, pray tell?

And yes, the Force 12 kinda sucks.


i just wanted to know in case I buy an engine that comes with a rotary carb. This Force 12 doesn't want to keep running :mad: Hit the throttle and it dies. I'm guessing the high needle is too rich. I ran a total of 1.5 tank of gas through it so far. I'm still trying to break it in.

Also, does your steering linkage from the servo hit the drive shaft when you turn the wheel? Mine does.

[spenzalii]

i just wanted to know in case I buy an engine that comes with a rotary carb. This Force 12 doesn't want to keep running :mad: Hit the throttle and it dies. I'm guessing the high needle is too rich. I ran a total of 1.5 tank of gas through it so far. I'm still trying to break it in.

Also, does your steering linkage from the servo hit the drive shaft when you turn the wheel? Mine does.

Engine dies at brake, huh? Check to make sure the linkage is adjusted properly and not moving the carb when you hit the brakes. When you go to neutral, there should be about a 1mm gap in the carb inlet. If it moves when you hit the brakes, you need to adjust it a bit

As for the linkage and the driveshaft, it did a little. You have the option of mounting the servo on the upper deck or to the chasis. I can't remember where mine is, but however yours is set up, switch it and see if it works.

[tnbigdawg]

Engine dies at brake, huh? Check to make sure the linkage is adjusted properly and not moving the carb when you hit the brakes. When you go to neutral, there should be about a 1mm gap in the carb inlet. If it moves when you hit the brakes, you need to adjust it a bit

As for the linkage and the driveshaft, it did a little. You have the option of mounting the servo on the upper deck or to the chasis. I can't remember where mine is, but however yours is set up, switch it and see if it works.


No, I said the engine dies when I throttle it, not braking. :rolleyes: I'm just guessing that the high speed needle is a little too rich. I haven't had time to work on it yet but I'll let you know how things go.

[spenzalii]

Yep, time to start leaning it out a bit, for sure. During breain, I found it good to be very light on the throttle. You probably won't get more than 1/2 throttle thru th rfirst few tanks, but a nice even roll on the throttle will keep it running a bit better.

[tnbigdawg]

Are there any parts interchangeable with the Associated's TC3? I tried the Hex Drives but they won't work on the LD3.

[tnbigdawg]

You LD3 guys still here?

How do you take out the standard AA receiver pack without having to remove the servo horn? It just seems like there isn't any room.

[minitruckintn]

i just bought a ntc3 from a friend for pretty cheap and i was woundering if theres anyone that can tell me where to tune the high , low , and the idle. And what all do i need to do i need to do to upgrade as far as faster and more controlable. But he messed with the timing and i can not to save my life get it back right again to even start. Please help me badly. :P

[tnbigdawg]

i just bought a ntc3 from a friend for pretty cheap and i was woundering if theres anyone that can tell me where to tune the high , low , and the idle. And what all do i need to do i need to do to upgrade as far as faster and more controlable. But he messed with the timing and i can not to save my life get it back right again to even start. Please help me badly. :P


There are engine tuning guides on the net, try nitrorc.com

[spenzalii]

You LD3 guys still here?

How do you take out the standard AA receiver pack without having to remove the servo horn? It just seems like there isn't any room.

It can be done, but it is a tight fit. You have to turn the servo horn as far as you can by hand to have enough room yo open the battery door, which is still a tight fit.

Or you can get the rechargeable pack. Trust me, it is worth it.

[tnbigdawg]

Or you can get the rechargeable pack. Trust me, it is worth it.


Trust me, I'm working on it. This hobby is expensive! Oh well :rolleyes: I'm thinking about making my own using cells from maxamps.

[RCDadChicago]

I'm thinking of getting an Ofna LD3 as a backup car, I was curious what engines will bolt in? I've got a Picco .15 I'd love to slap in place of the stock .12 engine.

[jwhert]

what is the overall opinion of this car, i dont have time to read through all these posts, so could someone tell me the pros and cons of this car, im buying it to drift most likely

[tnbigdawg]

what is the overall opinion of this car, i dont have time to read through all these posts, so could someone tell me the pros and cons of this car, im buying it to drift most likely

Pros: It's a great handling car and pretty fast. A lot of adjustability and easy to tune. It's also durable. The car is shaft driven which means it's great for bashing on unprepared surfaces but can still manage to race. It's a "big bang for the buck" kind of situation(stormerhobbies has them for $200).

Cons: The "red head" engine that comes with the RTR sucks, but if you're a good engine tuner you won't have too much trouble. The way the engine is positioned requires an awkward exhaust system(some say it doesn't allow optimum performance from the engine; same with the NTC3). Parts availability are down to only a few online shops that carry spares and hopups for this car. As with most if not all RTR cars, the included radio will get you by but it's not worth a penny as far as funtionality goes. I upgraded mine to a 3PM FM radio and it helps me dial in the car.

I'm not familiar with Drifting setups as far as diffs go since the LD3 has gear diffs so you'll need to consider that.

[jwhert]

i dont understand what that means, gear diffs, i do, but how could that pose as a problem

[tnbigdawg]

i dont understand what that means, gear diffs, i do, but how could that pose as a problem


Well I'm not sure if you guys need to lock them up or what, and the only way to adjust these gear diffs is to change the diff oil. If you do need to lock them up, I've heard of people putting putty of some sort to jam the gears.

[jwhert]

i apologize for my newbie question, what what is the diff, i cant figure out what locking helps or does not help

[jwhert]

what size body do these cars use?

[tnbigdawg]

what size body do these cars use?

They use 1/10th scale 200mm bodies.

As far as the diffs; I'm just saying I don't really know what differential setup drifters use.......You'll have better luck asking about this in a drifting forum.

[jwhert]

thank you

im happy to say ill be ordering mine tomorrow

[tnbigdawg]

thank you

im happy to say ill be ordering mine tomorrow

Ordering? Does your local hobbyshop carry parts for this car? If not, then I suggest you also order spare parts or option parts at the same time. This will save you a lot of trouble.

Which car are you gonna get? RTR 2 speed? RTR 2 speed with quick start? Pro?

For the RTR, I recomend getting the Pro suspension arms for spares as these are designed to be stronger....not that I have broken my stock one yet. They're pretty cheap too.

Well, good luck

[jwhert]

my lhs carries some ofna, if i need parts i can go through them and it takes about a week, but i think i will order those parts u said, couldnt hurt, and i didnt get to order yet, i have to pay a bill on my credit card so this wont put it over the limit

small limit btw, 500, just so it doesnt sound like im in debt

[tnbigdawg]

my lhs carries some ofna, if i need parts i can go through them and it takes about a week, but i think i will order those parts u said, couldnt hurt, and i didnt get to order yet, i have to pay a bill on my credit card so this wont put it over the limit

small limit btw, 500, just so it doesnt sound like im in debt


By the way, the cheapest place I've found to order the LD3 is Stormerhobbies.com $199.99

Another spare you might also get are the pivot balls....again not that I have broken one yet. I hear the NTC3 guys breaking theirs all the time with just a slight tap, but so far I've crashed a few times and even flipped the car without breaking/bending any. OFNA did a good job with this car. The only thing that sucks with the RTR is that the engine is hard to tune/start unless you got a starter box which helps make things easier.

Setup: RTR stock can be on the loose side. I changed to 50wt shock oil front and rear , 1-2 degrees rear toe-in and now the car's stable.

[spenzalii]

Definately swap the oil in the shocks to at least 50wt. Since this sounds like your first nitro car, don't worry too much about changing too much off the bat. Get used to driving it first for a while. The we can show you what you may want to change.

[slbks5]

What's the top speed of the LD3 in stock form? What's a reliable replacment motor for it also?

Thanks

[jwhert]

i wanna no more about this car

[tnbigdawg]

Well the LD3 has been updated with a CD3 version. They are similar in design, just different engine mounting and drivetrain.

It's top speed in stock form can be about 45mph(just a guess from what I heard) but then again, other manufacturer's claim that theirs go 50mph+ is questionable and if it did then it wouldn't do well on a track.

This car(LD3) is very easy to setup it's pivotball suspension, upgrades are only offered by the OFNA group, finding parts for it is limited to a few places online, stock tires suck, stock radio will get you by but all RTR radios suck, stock engine is hard to tune, durability of the car is excellent, stock shocks seems weak(I've upgraded mine with threaded aluminum from GRP I think), the car handles great. This is a great car to start out with but I'm not sure how well it handles on the track(will find out on my first race next season).

I'm getting the new Mugen MTX-4 but in the mean time, I'll be racing with the LD3 until I learn how to drive on the track. I wouldn't want to break the MTX-4 because of me being a rookie driver.

[jwhert]

cool, so its a beginners car, how often til its hard to get parts, any estimates?

[tnbigdawg]

cool, so its a beginners car, how often til its hard to get parts, any estimates?


Well, the only place I know that carries all the parts is nitrohouse.com, stormerhobbies.com has quite a few parts for this car as well but not every part is in stock. I can't say when the parts won't be available anymore, but not any time soon.

If you're really sure about this car, then I'd say get spare parts for it at the same time of ordering the car.

OFNA needs to work on their distributing, then maybe their cars will see more daylight as much as other popular manufacturers' cars. OFNA builds great cars but not a lot of people buy them because their LHS doesn't carry parts for it.

[jwhert]

Well, the only place I know that carries all the parts is nitrohouse.com, stormerhobbies.com has quite a few parts for this car as well but not every part is in stock. I can't say when the parts won't be available anymore, but not any time soon.

If you're really sure about this car, then I'd say get spare parts for it at the same time of ordering the car.

OFNA needs to work on their distributing, then maybe their cars will see more daylight as much as other popular manufacturers' cars. OFNA builds great cars but not a lot of people buy them because their LHS doesn't carry parts for it.

i just got the car in the mail, im at the stage of break in where i run a tank through it w/ the wheels off the ground, its hard to start, and when it starts, it dies, how can i fix this?

[jwhert]

k, i got it running, i hate this break in period, i wanna run it

[tnbigdawg]

k, i got it running, i hate this break in period, i wanna run it


Yeah, I had a very tough time keeping the car to idle with the wheels not moving. There are different methods of break-in however. One is to have the car on the ground a run it up to temperature and shut it down, put the piston at bottom dead center and let it cool. Then repeat. Do a search on a thread title called WOT break-in method either here or on rctech. another thing to do is keep blipping the throttle to bring up the engine speed a little so it doesn;t die out. Once you've broke the engine in, I recommend that you get a new glow plug(I use Mccoy MC59).

Goodluck

[jwhert]

how long do batteries last in the stock glow plug heater

[tnbigdawg]

how long do batteries last in the stock glow plug heater

It depends on how long you have to keep the heater on to start your car. When I used the pullstart, I would have to leave it on for a while until the car finally starts. Now that I got a starter box, I only have to leave it on for a few seconds. The longer you keep the heater on, the more it drains the battery.

So far mine has lasted for over 15-20 starts and it still works.

[Gyro Gearloose]

how long do batteries last in the stock glow plug heater

Not very long when one is breaking in under very rich needle settings with a pull start.

A few minutes(Less than ten added up in total I'm guessing) will eat a good battery like a Duracell easily.

I had a much easier time once I got a rechargable one.

[jwhert]

k, what all will i need for maintainance, all i have as what came w/ the rtr ld3 and then a gallon of fuel

[tnbigdawg]

k, what all will i need for maintainance, all i have as what came w/ the rtr ld3 and then a gallon of fuel


You'll need some tools. The RTR comes with allen wrenches but it might be easier to work with allen drivers(AKA hex drivers). The LD3 manual states what sizes the car needs.

You'll need some degreaser(I like Simple Green), WD40 as a cleaner, lube and rust preventer, After Run Oil, Clutch nut tool(I use a 10mm socket wrench), Glow driver(I use a 8mm socket with a 3/8" attachment for my screwdriver), Wheel nut wrench(I use a 7mm socket attachment also), A skinny flat head screwdriver for carb adjustments and you could also try to use it for clutch shoe installation/removal(I normally use a metal pick). You'll also need a philips head screwdriver, and some pliers. If you'll be changing the spur gears, you'll need a c-clip(AKA retaining ring) pliers.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Most of these tools can be used on your future RC cars if you ever get another one.

[jwhert]

ok, thank you

when yall come in from a day of driving, what do yall do before leaving the car for next time?

[tnbigdawg]

ok, thank you

when yall come in from a day of driving, what do yall do before leaving the car for next time?

This is what I do:

When you shut the engine off, put the piston at bottom dead center so that the sleeve will shrink back as it cools.

For long term storage:
Use a few drops of after run oil into the carb and glow plug hole and rotate the engine several turns to allow the oil to coat the internals.
Clean the car or blow the dirt off with an air compressor.
I usually remove all spring tensioners(I now have threaded shocks and put the collar all the way up) to relieve the springs. Keep the car on a stand to keep the wheels off the ground so they don't develop flat spots. Remove the batteries from radio gear.

[jwhert]

my car, stock engine, doesnt have a constant idle, itll go low then high, and to get it doing that good ihave to constantly adjust the throttle trim, any suggestions?

[jwhert]

im also having trouble keeping it straight under excelleration, and my turning isnt sharp enough, any suggestions?

[spenzalii]

For the idle, sounds like an air leak somewhere. Try sealing the carb and the backplate. That redhead engine is notorious for air leaks. You should have a much better idle after that.

As for the turning, make sure the servo is centered and the trims have the car tracking straight. Keep in mind the stock tires will only offer so much traction, so it could be as simple as a tire swap.

[jwhert]

tried drifting today, i have to say, i like these tires for drifting, i havent tried "drift" tires, but these will break lose when u need them, then "grip" when u need control, more so than the "drift" tires would i assume

also smacked a curb and broke a chunk out of the front left wheel

ill have me a practice set now though

[jwhert]

i love the way the thread goes dead for a while after i make a post, happens a lot

[spenzalii]

sorry. it's coming on off season for a bunch of us. I've had mine fow a few years now, so i'll help you with what I can.

[jwhert]

when i run my car it still wont run non stop w/ out dying, itll do a lot better w/ my body off though, when i start it, put my body on, as soon as i take off it dies, try w/ out the body and it works

idon tknow if i have the brake/throttle linkage set up right, any one have pics of what this should look like?

[spenzalii]

It dies with the body on? That's a bit odd, to put it mildly.

There's a picture of how the linkage should look in the instruction manual. For a quick check, take the air filter off and look at the carb. At idle (neutral), it should be a slight (1mm) gap. When you hit the brake, the carb should not move at all

[jwhert]

schools getting hectic right now, everythings due, ill check that when i get a chance

when i run, i start it, run about 30 seconds body off to let it warm up, then i put the body on, give it throttle, then it dies, i start it, put the body on, and it dies, then the 3rd or 4th time itll work

to get it started and keep it running, im constantly adjusting my throttle trim, is that normal?

[spenzalii]

If you're letting it run 30 seconds before you hit the throttle and it stalls, the carb is probably just loaded up, assuming the engine is broken in. What I try to do is give the throttle a slight blip every few seconds to keep the fuel from building up in the carb and effectively flooding the engine.

[jwhert]

those 30 seconds or so im actually driving, no prob, just no body

[tnbigdawg]

those 30 seconds or so im actually driving, no prob, just no body


I had the same problem when the car was new. After the break-in, you should lean the engine a bit and adjust the idle. What you want is a strong idle but without the wheels turning. The best way is to mess around with the needles and idle screw.

It helps to buy a starter box (OFNA's compact starter box is cheap) so you can start the engine with the body on. Make holes for your Glow igniter and needle adjustments and tune with the body on.

[jwhert]

is the steering servo suppose to be at a right angle before or after u turn the car on

[spenzalii]

is the steering servo suppose to be at a right angle before or after u turn the car on

Depends. Are you turning the car on before or after you turn the radio on?

[jwhert]

i turn the car on after the control is turned on

[spenzalii]

Most likely the failsafe needs to be set.

[jwhert]

i had it running pretty good, right into a lightpost.

im about to order parts, any recomendations on stuff i should buy to have, or parts i should just upgrade while i have the car taken apart?

[spenzalii]

i had it running pretty good, right into a lightpost.

im about to order parts, any recomendations on stuff i should buy to have, or parts i should just upgrade while i have the car taken apart?

I always like to keep a set of arms and knuckles on me at all times. I'm guessing one of the arms snapped, so now would be the perfect time to upgrade to the pro style arms. They are a bit thicker and less prone to break under normal circumstances (running into a light post is NOT normal). 2 pair of pivot balls probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.

That should be pretty good to get started for spares. If you're looking for ideas for hop up upgrades, that's another story (and depends on how much you have to take apart and how much you want to spend)

[jwhert]

its christmas time, money isnt much of an obstacle

the lightpole was a bad tire incident, i have slick tires in a parking lot that were not slick when i started, i just lost it trying to drift around the poll

...i might add i was trying to drift around it because i started sliding towards it at a high rate of speed

i broke the front bumper/holder of it, the gas tank is busted, i might find more when i take it apart this weekend

i smacked it head first, pretty lucky, didnt do too much to the steering

what are some recommended hop ups, excluding engines?

[jwhert]

no good upgrades?

[spenzalii]

Patience there, buddy. There are plenty of good upgrades to be had.

First and foremost I would get a nice set of tools. A nice set of metric hex drivers will make your job 10000% easier. A nice 4 4ay cross wrench makes changing tires and glow plugs less painful, too.

I highly recommend the aluminum arm holders, front and rear. If carbon fiber is your thing, there's teh carbon fiber radio plate, side brace, bumper brace (highly recommended) and shock towers. They will make the car sturdier, and look trick, but require a bit more teardown for basic maintenance. You can and should upgrade the electronics (stronger servos, 5 cell flat battery pack). If you're thinking about the engine, I would upgrade to the 4 gear diffs and swap the grease for some nice diff oil.

Engines and pipes will depend on if you want side or rear exhaust and pull start or non pull start before you get any recommendations on that. For that matter, consider a starter box, too.

[jwhert]

thanks man, recommended places to find all of this?

[spenzalii]

www.nitrohouse.com is your best bet hands down

[jwhert]

will these wheels

http://h1069711.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=HPI3037

fit this car, and what is a good tire for parking lots, preferable long wearing

[spenzalii]

The rims will fit, but they are made for rubber tires, not foam. On a warm trach, you most likely will get better traction with foam, but only if the surface is smooth and clean.

[jwhert]

i wont be seeing a track anytime soon, i just moved back to my small town for christmas break

nothing here but my old high school parking lot, good place to run, but nothing like a track

[jwhert]

i finally got my parts oredered, one thing i didnt realize, not sure how, but i crashed hard enough to bend my center drive shaft, thats all that appears to be wrong, n e thing that might have broken w/ that, that i cant see easily

[spenzalii]

The shaft may wobble and rub against the gas tank. You may be able to put it in a vise and straighten it out a bit

[jwhert]

ok, i got my car running again, but i cant get it to maintain a strong idle w/ out moving forward, what do i need to adjust here, ive been struggling w/ this issue the whole time ive owned the car

[jbl16]

has any1 tried the protoform lola body on their ld3 yet?

[spenzalii]

Not yet. No real outlaw class per se in this area. Run what you brung engine wise, yes, but must be a sedan body. Coupes can pass, but Lola is for 1/8 only.

[jwhert]

i havent had my car runnign in a while, probably 3 or 4 weeks, i have tried in that period but it hasnt started

what is the trick to getting it started?

[spenzalii]

Make sure glow plug is good
prime engine
it may help to warm the engine a bit with a heat gun or blowdryer for a minute or two.
Also, open the throttle slightly
That may help

[jwhert]

thanks man, i did all that, started right up

--did have to change the plug though

[fishstix]

Is there a header to put on a stock ld3 with side exhaust force .12 for an inline pipe? I wanted a new pipe and the price was too good.

[spenzalii]

An inline header? Good question. I know Dynamite had a inline side exaust system ( I used it a while ago), but I'm not sure if they sell the inline header by itself. I'd give them a quick look to see.

[fishstix]

IN-LINE HEADER SET FOR KYOSHO FW05-S
Code: E13C
Price: $19.99
IN STOCK
Quantity in Basket: none


Found this on rchub.com I didn't know if this would work or not.

[spenzalii]

Yep, that one will do the trick.

[Grifter]

Wow, I haven't been on in more than 2 years. Haha, just popping in and saying hi. Haven't run my LD-3 in forever, needs some parts to get it going again.

[spenzalii]

Sounds like a lot of us! I'm rebuilding my CD3 for the season and have the LD3 as a backup. I need to give that car some more love and straighten it out.