OFNA LD-3 Nitro Touring [Archive]

spenzalii

04-09-2003, 12:35 AM

It's finally here! If it weren't raining, cold and after midnight, I'd be breaking it in. Of course, I need to get some fuel first, but that's a small detail, I suppose. Since it's late, I'll give you a quick rundown and fill it in 2morrow (or as the week goes on)

For a $300 RTR, you really can't beat it, especially compared to it's main competitor, the NTC3. The carrying case is a very nice touch, as is the included 2 speed. I really like the look of the hard coted chasis. It's a change from bare aluminum or blue and purple. The molded 1 piece shock towers are thick. The front tower caputres the upper arms. No need to make those out of graphite! Aluminum would be nice, but it will cost. There is only a bit of room from the steering knuckle and the tire, so putting anything over 26mm on the front is risky. To be on the safe side, I'll probably go with a bit of offset. The rear hub carriers don't have an issue with a Nitro Shoe 30mm tire (of course, I did go for 2 deg. offset). The radio tray is sealed nicely, but it will take a bit more work to take it off if you really want to clean the car. The failsafe is made into the battery case, keeping things nice and neat. It's nice to know the 2 speed uses threaded gears, so ratio changes will be a bit easier. There is a primerless tank that sits relatively low. The lower bumper seems plenty stiff, but the body mounts connect with the upper bumper brace. Not so sure that's a good thing. The 300M body has a very nice print job and is already cut, wing mounted and body holes cut. The polished 6 ring pipe looks nice, but I plan on swapping that for the Fantom Works pipe when I get the Collare XS12. I did not see an optional rear exhaust manifold from Ofna (I have to finish the manual) but from the looks of it, the TC3 one will fit.

Now for the gripes. I do like the look of the clear blue plastic shocks, but they should have come standard with the threaded shocks ($40 for a full set from Ofna). There's the usual gripe about the Blazer Sport radio and the standard servos, but those will be swapped soon enough. While I still scratch my head at the inclusion of the Force .12, I was mildly surprosed and pleased thatit now has a slide carb. The motor mounts look to be the adjustable kind, which may have uses later down the line (I wonder if a Big-Block can be wedged in there?) The rims are nice, but they could have come with some better tires. And I plan on getting aluminum rear hub carriers as soon as they come out. There is a bit more flex back there than I'm used to. Then again, it's been a while since I had a pivot ball car.

All said, I am quite pleased with Ofna's offering. I'm not even about to say whether or not it will hold up as well as the NTC3, or which one is better quality. But for the value, you cannot beat it with anything out there now. Bravo!

And now I'm going 2 sleep.............

anothermbdusted

04-09-2003, 03:49 PM

looks like the pro will come with 6 gear diff compared to the standard 4 gears in the rtr version according to rcca's may issue cant wait....i think ill wait another month befor i decide to get one lets hope the pro comes out by then

spenzalii

04-09-2003, 04:27 PM

I'll probably order the 6 gears then. I think they're only $7 per diff from Ofna

puribong

04-10-2003, 01:09 PM

kewl..
how is part quality and fit??
I am about to place an order...

spenzalii

04-10-2003, 04:16 PM

Quality is good. I like the design of the front shock towers, but hate the fact that there's no handle for it. I should order the diffs tomorrow and fill them with oil instead of the grease. I hope my impression will continue once I run it

puribong

04-11-2003, 03:19 PM

just won the auction of Ofna LD3 RTR. The final price was $199.00 that's pretty cheap isn't it?
I can't wait to try the car.
I guess I will be the first few people to try LD3.

spenzalii

04-11-2003, 03:53 PM

Depends on the weather, I may beat you to it! Did you get the single speed or the 2 speed version?

puribong

04-11-2003, 04:13 PM

It is the single speed RTR version....
I will add 2speed as a upgrade later on.. I already have two other nitro touring cars(OB4, TS4N).... I will probably sell on later to get some money for LD3 hop ups....
LD3 should handle as good as OB4 and TS4N is not better isn't it?

spenzalii

04-11-2003, 04:22 PM

Save your Obbie. I think some of the parts are interchangeable with the LD3 (arms and hub carriers, methinx)

puribong

04-12-2003, 01:47 PM

I wish a lot of parts are interchangeble..
I will see if they are interchange when mine comes..
Mine is expected to delivered on 18th.. Damn slow UPS>>

spenzalii

04-13-2003, 07:52 PM

Don't know what all's interchangeable. I got to look at both of them side by side quite a few times being at the track 2day. I had to pull it out the box at least 5 times to show people. Overall, even the naysayers and 'TC3-copycat' sayers were a bit impressed: either by the shock towers, the revised throttle/braking setup, the rear pivot ball setup, the gear diffs and the floating adjustable motor mounts (already people have me putting a .21 in it!). But once they see the bag, and realize its a RTR and do a doubel take on the $300 price tag, they are shocked. My LHS shop owner said he will have to carry them soon. It's a better deal than the Tornado RTR, and light years away from the RS4 3. I didn't get to run (still breaking in the motor) but initial impressions are great. Just get some foams off the break; the rubber tires are barely good enough for break-in.

puribong

04-15-2003, 03:53 PM

June issue of RCCA has a review of LD3. I haven't check it out yet... I will get it as soon as arrives at the store..
I think June issue has many interesting product reviews beside LD3. They got 4-tec+rustler 2.5 review, Reflex NT review and shaftdriven shootout MRC/Academy vs. Associated vs. Tamiya.. look at the cover page of an issue on the web..

Accidently, I gave the seller wrong address so I guess I gotta call up UPS and give them a new address....

frank13

04-16-2003, 10:07 PM

HEY DOES ANYONE HAVE A NTC3 ALSO , I WAS CURIOUS IF THE GEAR DIFFS IN THE LD3 WOULD DROP IN THE NTC3 SINCE THEY USE VERTUALLY THE SAME DRIVE TRAIN ,, IF ANY ONE HAS A NTC3 AND A LD3 , I WOULD LOVE TO KNOW IF THE DIFFS ACTUALLY DO FIT IN THE REAL WORLD ,,

THANSK GUYS, GOOD LUCK WITHT THE LD3 ,, OFNA MAKES A GREAT NTC3,, I MEAN CAR,, JUST JOKING GUYS,,

THANKS FRANK13
RCCA MODERATOR,

puribong

04-19-2003, 11:03 AM

I would like to know this too..
The kit arrived at my place yesterday..
All I can say is that I love this car just by looking at it even though I have yet to run it.
Car looks very sturdy and parts seem good of quality and diffs drivetrain feels really smooth..
Chassis looks kewl and it is pretty rigid. Doesn't look like much of flex is there..

The radio it comes with is Airtronics blazer sport which DOESN'T have Dual Rate Steering. This SUX... These days Dual rate steering is pretty much standard...

My kit didn't come with fail safe. little disappointed this one but it's ok..

Kit included a "D" drycell glow starter, a fuelbottle.
Body is nicely painted. I think I would save this body and put in other body when I am playing..
Carry case have enough rooms to store many things..

I can't wait to break in the engine...

puribong

04-19-2003, 11:07 AM

look at this picture..
LD3 Pro version..

http://www.ofna.com/images/new-ld3pro-34-BIG.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/images/new-ld3PRO-under-BIG.jpg

Nice...

puribong

04-19-2003, 04:58 PM

what are little plastic parts that are included in the bag of stickers?
one is black parts and other one is kinda of white color and has 2 holes.. just curious...
I wish the body has clear windows instead painted windows..
Also out of box, things like throttle and steering setting are little off.....

spenzalii

04-20-2003, 09:30 PM

I had to do the same thing with mine. I just popped the horn off and repositioned it. The idle set screw is hard to get to since it;s on the backside of the carb, but the linkages are set well. You may have to back the 2 speed out a bit after the car gets broken in. And PLEASE, get rid of the kit tires; they won't make it through the break-in. The diffs will sound like a cheese grater, but they're just breaking in. I'm planning on using diff oil in them as soon as my 6 gear diffs come in. That should quiet them down a bit. The car is quick, I'll give it that, but it needs more steering. I'll reserve judgement on that until I swap the tires with my Nitro Shoes. Not quite sure what those extra parts are, either.

As far as the diff swap goes, I'm not too sure either. They may fit in the case, but I'm not sure if the shaft will mesh properly. I may pick a diff up to find out. Not that I want ball diffs, but a solid diff wouldn't be so bad.

hpimonster

04-22-2003, 08:30 PM

I am going to order this car in may sometime does anyone have any bad things to say about this car I am a beginner so would this be a good choice.

spenzalii

04-22-2003, 11:01 PM

If you check the earlier posts, not much. There's no carry handle, the shocks aren't threaded and the kit tires blow chunks. Since it's new (and an Ofna), depending on your LHS, parts may have to be ordered, rather than having them on the wall. Other than that, you simply CANNOT beat the price of the car. When you look at the other RTRs out there (RS4 3, NTC3, Tornado, 4Tec), you simply get so much more for your $300 with a great chasis to boot. Get the car, you won't be dissapointed.

hpimonster

04-23-2003, 02:13 PM

well, hopefully next paychek I should be able to get this car I was either going to decide with this the Kyosho v-one-s, the HPI SS, or the NTC3, but overall it looks like you get a better bang for you buck for this car. Can you get threaded shocks for the car as an aftermarket part?? And do you think it can hang in the rookie class stock??

spenzalii

04-23-2003, 02:36 PM

I believe Ofna sells a pair to fit (around $29 a pair). The shocks from their OB4 series should do the trick as well. With a bit of work, you should be able to use any threaded shock, provided the ball studs will fit.

As far as whether it can hang, yes indeed! Box stock, all I would change is the tires. Other than that, until you get the threaded shocks, swap the baby oil included in the shocks now for some 50-60 weight oil and fill the diffs with silicone oil instead of grease and go to work. What engines are running in the rookie class over there, anyway?

hpimonster

04-23-2003, 06:05 PM

I'm not really sure whats runnin over there to tell you the truth i've never raced at or on a track. I've heard that there are about 3 RS43 RTR's, I think 2 SS's, a kyosho v-one-s or r i think that its S though I also heard there are quite a few 4-tecs (stock) i believe there are also some TC3's not sure what model RTR or kit.
I'm not totally sure about these I've never been there I heard all this from a friend who only races electric; he saw the nitros run while he was waiting he heard all this from some of the spectators and other racers.

spenzalii

04-23-2003, 06:09 PM

From the sound of things, you should be just fine. It is a great chasis, and with the design it is very free and efficient. The Force 12 is underpowered, but in that class of competitors, you'll be fine. Remember, it's not how fast you go, but how you go fast.

hpimonster

04-23-2003, 06:38 PM

out of all of them which do you think would put up the biggest fight?? I am thinkin its the kyosho (kyosho's), but I am not sure. Will the Ld3 accept non-pullstart engines?? and is it true that non-pullstarts have 5% more horsepower??

spenzalii

04-24-2003, 03:56 PM

Whichever car has the best driver is the threat, whether he's driving a MTX-3 or a Fun Factor. So try not to focus too much on which chasis will give you a run. But if you have to have a straight answer, yes the V1R or the TC3, all things being equal.

Yes, a non pull start motor will fit. Of course, Ofna doesn't have the manifold or pipe for it yet! However, the NTC3 pipe will work with no problem, as will the Dynamite combo or header. The advantage of the Dynamite header is that you can use your same pipe or a standard pipe.

As far as 5% more power, there's a yes and no to that answer. In short, yes, a non pull start will have an edge on a pull start for the simple fact that there's no drag from the one way bearing in the p/s and there's less weight. Honestly, unless you're pro caliber, you won't notice the difference. However, 90% of the high powered motors are non pull start (bump start). You can go eeney-meney-minney-moe and pick a great one. But you can find a good pull start if you look for one (Try the Collari XS12, a RB, Top or NovaRossi and you won't be mad).

hpimonster

04-24-2003, 07:35 PM

It will probably be a little while before I get the NON-pullstart.
Do you know when the pro edition is going to come out?? Are JP modified engines any good; if so I think I will get the .12 3-port w/turbo plug (turbo plugs aren't ROAR legal though right??)??
I will definitley be getting rid of that horrible stock radio and replacing it with my JR XR2i. I read a fairly long and well thought out review of the LD3 on www.nitroreview.com it was a great article.
Later

spenzalii

04-24-2003, 09:41 PM

Yeah, that's the one I wrote, so I guess it was well thought out;) No seriously, I was trying to hit as many sites as I could to help spread the gospel.

JP Mod Turbo, huh? Just want to step out there big right away I see. I think that particular RB is only bump start, but a very good choice. You can get the roar legal version, too if you want to go that route. If memory serves, they are MT12 based, which is still one of the baddest engines out there. I've also heard good things on the Sirio line of motors.

The XR2i is a good radio. I have the XR3, and hope to upgrade to the XS3 (no more crystals!) soon. Not so sure about the pro version of the LD3. My LHS if going to check with Ofna for me Monday.

hpimonster

04-25-2003, 02:42 PM

That was your review? its a small world (haha) I cant get the ld3 on may 2 hopefully soon though. My parents do not want me to buy another on road sedan because I allready have 2 (TLO1, HPI Micro RS4 electric[there not the best, but they do there jobs]) If I can't get the ld3 though I would like to get an OFNA buggie (best looking and heard the best besides Kyosho) Do you have any experience in OFNA buggies?? I ask you because you seem like one the only people I know that really likes OFNA. How many OFNA's have you owned?? I know that you have had at least 2 (That blows what happened to your ob4 international) So about 1/8th scale buggies are they hard to maintain?? and is the Hyper 7 better than the 9.5mbx??
thanx

spenzalii

04-25-2003, 04:14 PM

Somebody's beed doing their reading! YEah, it sux about the OB4 Int'l, but the world doesn't stop.

As far as buggies go, I know a few people over here that run them, both with great success. They make great basher buggies as well as race machines in the right hands. As far as which is better, flip a coin. I've seen Hypers run and 9.5's run with no problem. Make sure your LHS stocks parts for them in case you hit something at 45+mph. The drivetrain on 1/8 scales are about bulletproof, so maintaining them shouldn't be too hard.

As far as the engines go, the 9.5 goes with the Force .25, and the Hyper has the 8 por t Hyper .21. I've heard that the .25 can be a pain to tune, but that varries (I think some of the problem was with the early carbs, which have been fixed for the most part). The latest issue (june) of Nitro has a comparison if all the RTR buggies in it; check it out

hpimonster

04-26-2003, 02:48 PM

I was reading alot of reviews on the hyper 7 and the 9.5 at school during computer keyboarding (the benefit of having educational tools at everyschool [thanx bill gates]) Anyways I was reading at www.nitroreview.com and it seems the Hyper 7 and 9.5 are about the same hyper 21 sounds good though, but I heard you can put a two speed into the 9.5?? I guess it does come down to the flip of the coin. Should be ordering sometime around June or so. Do know how fast either of these buggies can go?? And also do you know if buggies are good sand runners?? Sorry for all these questions I will probably be posting in the one of the buggie forums as soon as I make up my mind leaning towards Hyper 7 though.

spenzalii

04-26-2003, 11:43 PM

Not so sure on the 2 speed in the 9.5; I've heard different opinions on that. For a 2 speed, you would have to step down to the Ultra GT series of buggies. Speeds of the mid to upper 40s are good out of the box, faster if you gear it differently. Running in the sand, I think it depends on the tires. With some paddle tires (do they make them for buggies?) it should do the trick.

hpimonster

04-27-2003, 02:31 PM

I havent seen a two speed for the 9.5 guess i was wrong i dont I have never seen paddles for buggys maybe stadium truck rims will fit if not i'll just get the widest tires and run them with a thin soft inner foam.
late

puribong

04-27-2003, 02:56 PM

hey spenzalii, how come I can't find your review of LD3 at nitroreview.com??

I am still in process or break in Force12... I haven't had much time to play with LD3. maybe About 3 more tanks of fuel is needed to complete break in...
I am gonna go play with it maybe today...
So how do you like your LD3 so far?

spenzalii

04-27-2003, 05:59 PM

Strange, it's the only one up there! Check it again.

So far, I love it. I'm about to go play with it now. I haven't had time to this week, but I did swap the shock oil and put in a 5 cell pack and got my tires straight

puribong

04-28-2003, 02:41 PM

Is it in reader review?? I did search on LD3 but notthing found..
Can you give me a link if you can??

I am thinking about putting in engine from my ts4n into LD3 but was wondering if pilotshaft works with stock clutch setups on LD3.. I have yet to disassemble LD3 so I don't know if it accpet pilotshaft design..
The engine from ts4n is basically same engine as ntc3 rtr.

spenzalii

04-28-2003, 02:49 PM

OK try HERE (http://www.nitroreview.com/compare/homekits.cfm) Click the Ofna LD3 for the review.

As fat as a pilot (SG) shaft, yes it will fit on the clutch. You will need the sg flywheel though; I don't have the book in front of me so I can't get you a part number yet.

jdm3849

04-28-2003, 11:38 PM

Is the Force .12 in the LD3 really hat weak? Will it easily spin the tires from stand-still? Do you think there will be durability issues in the drivetrain? Is the pipe that comes on it a Paris Turbo Ring pipe? I have never had a touring car in my life, only 5 off-road trucks. Are they fun if all you are doing is getting loose and trying to slide through corners? Are nito tc's bad for drifting compared to electric because of their higher CG? Would you know how long a tank of gas lasts? The steering servo looks hard to get at, is it? Is this car easy to maintain and rebuild? lots of places that trap dirt? thanks!!!!

puribong

04-29-2003, 12:59 AM

first of all, force12 engine isn't overly weak..
It is just about compaprable with some of sport type engine.
I've been using Force12 and some of other sports engines such as Torq 12(one that duratrax used include in their Maximun series, Thunder Tiger Pro 12bzx, Mach 15 on xxxnt, hpi 15fe........ Force 12 is about on par with those engines. Of course, it is not like 1+HP engines out there but it is good sport engine and it will produce over 50mph top speed with 2 speed on LD3.

I haven't heard of durability issue of LD3's drivetrain. Cars built sturdy and parts are good quality. Diff gear requires few tanks before it sounds better.

It is not Paris Turbo ring pipe, but it is 6 ring pipe from Ofna.
http://www.ofna.com/images/pipe-10063.jpg

LD3 is a good basher out of box and it seems it has very good potential as a racer too. You will love the car if you are going to do bashing in parking lot. Its shaftdriven is plus too.

LD3 has very low CG overall and suspension can be tune in most areas depending on your running condition.

It really depends with how you throttle your car and how the engine is tuned but most of time, a tank of fuel will last I would say anywhere from 7-12mins.

I have yet to disassemble car for maintain, but it looks as most things requires very minimal disassembly including steering servo. It is definitely easier then some of other cars out there.

Overall, I think LD3 is a really nice car for the money. I picked up mine for $200. I got a single speed RTR version.. If you need 2 speed then go for 2speed RTR or if you don't need engine and radio, you can wait for LD3 Pro to come out. It will include even more goodies than LD3 RTRs.

spenzalii

04-29-2003, 09:57 AM

The steering servo isn't THAT hard to get to, but it will require a bit more dissassembly than the TC3 (which you will probably comparte it to) because of the design. The upper arms are captured by the shock tower, which is in the was of the screws for the radio tray. Now the steering rach is a pain in either car, so that's not a big issue. Cleaning isn't that hard, either. You can spray it down with denatured alcohol like I do after every run, or take the tray out and really get busy. Yes, the Force will light up the tires from standstill (especially the crappy kit tires!) and as a stock/sport engine it is about par for the course. (It will whup the crap out of a .15fe, but what can't?) NOt too sure about the drifting thing, though. I'm sure with the right setup you could pull it off. And while you won't be flying iver the whoops with a TC, something is very exhillarating about carving through corners, hitting that wide sweeper and nailing the gas on the straight and hearing the tranny shift. Value wise, it's a hard car to beat.

jdm3849

04-29-2003, 11:58 PM

Thank you for the very thorough answer, I really appreciate it!!!!

Are you sure it will get to speeds of 50mph+?
I was expecting low 40's upper 30's because the RS4 3 SS only goes 46mph with the .12R

The way you describe it,I dont think there is a better deal out there.

I am new to touring cars, how will i know if certain wheels will fit on the LD3? like size (mm?)

Did the OB4 nitro have the force .12 also?

Sorry for the questions, but i really appreciate it when you answer them.

Thanks, Mike

spenzalii

04-30-2003, 09:34 AM

No problem; most people appreciate a straight answer!

Yes, the Force came with the OB4. Now supposedly, it made it to 57mph. I didn't see that article in RCCA (I wasn't into RC at the time), but realistically, that may have been a bit of a stretch. With the stock gearing, high 40s, very low 50s seems possible. Definately over 30. Gear up a few teeth and you could concievably get 50 with this motor. It's a bit more efficient than the RS4 3.

26mm tires wil fit the front. I tried 30mm just to see and it rubbed the steering knuckle pretty bad, so I'm not sure if it's worth trying 28mm up there. 30mm will fit, no problem in the rear. I haven't tried 32mm yet, but there looks to be plenty of room. Of course, you could add a bit of affset and they should fit then, if you wanted.

jdm3849

04-30-2003, 07:09 PM

In the fall 2001 issue of RCCA touring cars they have the nitro touring car shootout and they said the OB4 went 50MPH flat on 20% but did not specify what engine it had, just a .12. The Z-10 version went 48 and they said it had a colt .12 so that is why i asked, was'nt sure.

puribong

04-30-2003, 11:28 PM

Force12 and Colt12 is same motor.
I have a z10 and it came with colt 12 motor and it looks exactly same as Force12. Parts are interchangeble. I don't know why they have 2 differnent names but I am sure they are same motor.
OB4 nitro used come with Force12. OB4 I bought came with Force12 motor like 2 years ago.
LD3 and force12 will hit 50s.
If this is your first nitro, you will want the more that's very easier to tune then more speed. More HP motor will give you better speed but some of faster motor is not as friendly as some of sports engines.

jdm3849

04-30-2003, 11:41 PM

I have been into nitro for a year or so. I am actually really good at tuning, only cause of my temperature guage. :D

Are there parts in the 2-speed that will wear enough to worry about? Can the 2-speed's handle the abuse of full brake/full throttle action for extended periods of time? In your experience, how long has the piston/sleeve's lasted in your red heads?
Do the RTR LD3's come with rubber sealed bearings as advertised? Will HPI wheels fit on the LD3? I have seen some pretty nice ones. Do most all TC wheels have a certain standard hex adapter? ( don't know how to phrase that) lol

Ok, thanks for your time once again!

-MiKe

spenzalii

05-01-2003, 09:42 AM

So many questions, so little time!

OK. The 2 speed is a clutch type 2 speed, so presumably over time, the shoes will have to be replaced. I haven't pulled the car down and checked if teh bearings were metal or rubber shielded yet, so I'll take their word for now. Good point on the engines. As with any high performance anything, more care is needed to make them run better, whereas you can usually thrash the crap out a lower end engine and it will at least run. As long as the gear mesh is correct, it shouldn't have too much of a problem shifting in and out of gear, and the brakes are great. I wonder if the TC3 pads will fit the calipers? The LD3 uses 'standard' size hex hubs, so the HPI rims will fit. For the most part, touring cars use the same size hub, with the exception of Losi, which gives you the option to run their smaller size hubs as well.

puribong

05-01-2003, 12:23 PM

As for bearings, I am pretty sure LD3 has rubber shield bearings.
I read the review of RCCA and they said LD3 has rubber shield bearings and I don't think Ofna would do false advertisement.

On my other force12 engine on my OB4, I have put maybe little less than a gallon of fuel to it but it is still going strong beside I had to replace the pull starter once.

KikinLizard

05-04-2003, 05:13 PM

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/kikinlizard-nitro/images/ltopoff.jpg
My car after the break in.
Missing a body post after a reflector ran in front of my car.http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/kikinlizard-nitro/images/side_topon.jpg

spenzalii

05-04-2003, 08:32 PM

Looks about right. You know there's spare body posts in the bag. I see you haven't chucked the tires yet. Did your body line up properly? Mine is off in the rear, causing the body to rub the rear tire. I'll get another one painted in a week. The noise in the gearbox has calmed down a bit. I still have to get the diff oil in there. Now I want the 'full option' version. Maybe I can con my fiancee to get it for me. After all, I did have to buy a ring...

puribong

05-05-2003, 12:24 PM

hehe I think I got the exactly same painted body as yours KikinLizard.. You know there are extra body posts included in your LD3. those body posts can be fit on LD3, ob4, z10.

Rear of my body doesn't rub the tire when car is not moving but it sits every close with rear tires and it seems to rub the rear tire occationally when car is moving.

spenzalii

05-05-2003, 12:30 PM

Looking at the photo, I niticed something else: No hole for the pull start or glow igniter. You using a box on it? Or do you start it then put the body on?

My body must be the blue one then; it's a bit darker than that. The left rear tire sits almost 1/4 inch forward from the body, meaning I would really have to widen one side of the wheel well. As soon as I find my camera, I'll take pics

puribong

05-05-2003, 04:48 PM

he probably starts the engine and put the body back on.

Also, you can install front body post on its shock tower just like the rear body but you need to use different set of body posts.

I am currently using stock ofna painted body but my next body will mounted with front body post moved to its shock tower. For some reason, I feel that front body post is mounted way out in front.

Speedy Gonzales

05-07-2003, 02:36 AM

Hey guys,

Price is really good on the RTR and include all this goodies like two speed, fail safe and according to a magazine add, a bag.
But is it better than NTC3 :confused:

Please help on where my $300 will go. Ofna or Associate.

puribong

05-07-2003, 02:57 AM

For features and value, I think LD3 beats ntc3.
With LD3, you get glow starter, fuel bottle and also 2box carrying case.
If you go with 2speed RTR, of course, you get 2peed transmission and a fail safe unit.
You probably have already read long list of its features so I won't mentions other features.

I would say LD3 is better deal than Ntc3 in terms of value/performance.

One of reasons that I chose to go with LD3 is that I was kinda tired of NTC3 because everyone has one and I wanted be little different from someone.

Have you even seen LD3 "full option" car? Don't you think this car is hot?

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/rcx/OFNALD3%20Pro_Chassis.jpg

don't be stressed out too much of picking the car. Get whatever you think is better not others think its better. you know what i mean..

spenzalii

05-07-2003, 09:18 AM

He's right you know. The LD3 has the best bang for the buck, won't melt the diffs after hard running, no need for 'the fix' and is much easier to set (and keep) rear toe. On the downside, until the car gets more popular, your LHS will have to get the parts for you or you can order from Nitrohouse. I wouldn't trade mine for the world. But, you have to go with what YOU like.

hooked_on

05-09-2003, 07:01 AM

Guys i have been reading all your post regarding the new Ofna Ld3. I have previously owned and won the championship at my club driving an Assosciated NTC3, i am however currently driving a MTX3.

Something i am suprised at is everyone is calling it a RTR car? I would have thought the LD3 was at the same level as just the standard NTC3?

I could be wrong of course.....

P.S: I love the LD3 Pro, I will sell the Mugen to buy it if this is what we get for our dollar.

puribong

05-09-2003, 03:02 PM

Only LD3 out now is RTRs that's why we are calling it a RTR car.
Of course, this car has good potential of winning races with few changes such as engine and tires.
.
LD3 Pro should be a good competition to regular ntc3 and full option verison will probably outshine ntc3...

hooked_on

05-09-2003, 04:55 PM

Originally posted by puribong
Only LD3 out now is RTRs that's why we are calling it a RTR car.
Of course, this car has good potential of winning races with few changes such as engine and tires.
.
LD3 Pro should be a good competition to regular ntc3 and full option verison will probably outshine ntc3...

I thought the LD3 Pro would be the fully optioned version? So you think there will be a model out after the Pro?

puribong

05-09-2003, 06:45 PM

ok.. This is LD3 Pro.

> Front one-way
> Aluminum threaded shocks
.> Front an rear CVA axles
> Dual-chamber 180 degree pipe
> Blade-style front and rear swaybars
> 7075 aluminum chassis
> 6-gear differentials
> Partially-finished body; flames are factory, the rest of the body is clear.

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/rcx/OFNALD3TeamKit.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/images/new-ld3pro-34-BIG.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/images/new-ld3PRO-under-BIG.jpg

and this is full option.
http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/rcx/OFNALD3%20Pro_Chassis.jpg

spenzalii

05-09-2003, 11:19 PM

Personally, with as well equiped as the RTR is, I'll just wait for the full option to come out. I already have most of the pro level parts ordered up at my LHS. It would be nice if the Pro had the centax clutch, but I don't know if it does.

jdm3849

05-10-2003, 12:32 AM

Do you have any idea how much money the kit form (not full option) LD3 kit is going to cost? I really want the LD3 but would like to choose my own motor and radio. Do you know if they are going to make a normal kit (just like rtr but without the gear)?

Thanks, Mike

hooked_on

05-10-2003, 07:39 AM

Does anyone have any idea then when the full option edition will be available?

puribong

05-10-2003, 02:22 PM

I don't know how much pro or full options car are going to cost and when they will be available but I assume, pro version will probably cost slightly less than ntc3 kit form.
I think LD3 RTRs are still competitive against LD3 Pro version not "Full Option" version. only things I want from Pro version are swaybars and maybe 6 gear diff.

hooked_on

05-10-2003, 09:38 PM

Does the LD3 have a clutch style 2 speed like the NTC3?

jdm3849

05-10-2003, 09:56 PM

Yes, but do not be mistaken. The RTR NTC3 does not include a 2-speed.

One question, does the LD3 have a 4 shoed clutch? I have only had 2 shoed and hear 4's are harder to maintain?

hooked_on

05-10-2003, 10:47 PM

Also,

Are the screws metric or imperial like the Assosciated?

spenzalii

05-10-2003, 11:19 PM

metric screws and 3 shoe clutch, to answer the last two

hooked_on

05-10-2003, 11:38 PM

Originally posted by spenzalii
metric screws and 3 shoe clutch, to answer the last two

Thanks Spenzalli....

I assume it also has droop adjustment screws frnt and rear?

Also,

With the versions in Asia (Hong Nor) do they come with the carry bag, radio etc like the Ofna equiv.....

puribong

05-13-2003, 03:37 PM

yeah car has droop screws.
I don't know whether hongnor verison comes with carrying bag, glow starter, and fuel bottle or not..
Hongnor website doesn't mention those but I assume it includes at least radio with it. I could be wrong though..

http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?application=hongnor

Are you from one of Asian countries??

puribong

05-13-2003, 04:34 PM

look at this..
http://www.ofna.com/news.html

Las Vegas Speedline Grand Prix 13 April 2003
Speedline Grand Prix in Las Vegas, Nevada.
1st race debut of the OFNA LD3.

1/10th Scale Pro Class:
— 5th PLACE - Tim Bump, LD3

not bad??

puribong

05-13-2003, 04:57 PM

my lhs(Bruckner) might carry replacement parts for LD3.
I got an email reply from them and they say they carry LD3 but it is out of stock right now and it's coming back in stock soon. I guess it is selling hot?
anyway I just wish them to carry some replacement parts for LD3.
If it is selling well, I am pretty sure, they will stock some parts for LD3.

hooked_on

05-13-2003, 05:51 PM

Originally posted by puribong
yeah car has droop screws.
I don't know whether hongnor verison comes with carrying bag, glow starter, and fuel bottle or not..
Hongnor website doesn't mention those but I assume it includes at least radio with it. I could be wrong though..

http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?application=hongnor

Are you from one of Asian countries??

I live in Australia, but it cheaper for me to buy my r/c car stuff from Hong Kong.

hooked_on

05-13-2003, 05:59 PM

Has naybody got the 80% kit rather then the RTR? I would like to know if it comes with Body, Carry Bag, Exhaust Header & Tune Pipe?

spenzalii

05-13-2003, 06:11 PM

Can't really help you just yet, buddy. The only 2 versions they have over here are RTRs, 1 and 2 speed. I'm not sure what sort of price difference or equipment difference the 2 would have, but if you really wanted one, go on, get it, chuck the motor and radio, and keep moving

hooked_on

05-14-2003, 06:26 AM

Originally posted by spenzalii
Can't really help you just yet, buddy. The only 2 versions they have over here are RTRs, 1 and 2 speed. I'm not sure what sort of price difference or equipment difference the 2 would have, but if you really wanted one, go on, get it, chuck the motor and radio, and keep moving

I am sure i read somewere they had ordered or receieved one of the 80% kits? I can't remember now, but i have ordered it will have to wait what i receive.

puribong

05-14-2003, 04:46 PM

maybe where in Australia, there might 80% kit who knows?
but here in US, I haven't seen any other LD3s beside 1 and 2 speed RTR.

puribong

05-15-2003, 11:19 AM

yesterday I ran the my LD3 with tires and wheels taken out from my TS4N.. After couple of tanks, I just want to tell you guys that you SHOULD replace your stock LD3 tires.
New tires made big difference in handling. The tires from TS4N's been used for long time before I put in my LD3 but it still had better traction than stock LD3 tire. It just didn't slip as much and I got more steering out of it. LD3 ran like as if it was sticking to the ground. You know what I mean. The wheels never left the ground with new tires..

spenzalii

05-15-2003, 12:15 PM

Well, I have to go to the shop to pick up some stuff for mine. A screw in the pullstart dissapeared and my left rear wheel nut jettisoned itself in the parking lot. I got some stock up parts (arms, shock towers) threaded shocks, 6 gear diff. I need to get the setup board while I'm at it (got my Integy jig Monday:45 bux!) fuel tubing, glow plugs, stiff like that. Got the idle squared away: I figured out which was the idle screw on the carb and almost have that dialed. With some 30mm tires, the car stays on the ground, for sure. I haven't founs a use for the stock tires yet.

puribong

05-15-2003, 12:27 PM

hehe how you got your pull starter screws disappeared?? I don't know if they sell those screws seperately.
For now, I am ok with stock LD3 shocks but I plan to move threaded shocks from my ob4 to LD3 but ob4 shocks need to be rebuilt.
let me know how 6 gear diffs works and in gerenal, how is the price of LD3 replacement parts?? I hope they are not expensive like some of oversea cars like kyosho or mugen....
I want to get a new clutchbell or a spur gear. Ofna harden cluthbell cost like $19 at tower.. that's pretty expensive for me when other cars clutchbell cost like $10.

spenzalii

05-15-2003, 12:45 PM

I'll see on the price. Hopefully, they won't be too much more than the list price in the book. I figured the shocks would do well since the rear end slaps down kinda hard. The front looks good, but the rear of the chasis looks like I took a belt sander to it...

hooked_on

05-15-2003, 05:55 PM

Originally posted by puribong
yesterday I ran the my LD3 with tires and wheels taken out from my TS4N.. After couple of tanks, I just want to tell you guys that you SHOULD replace your stock LD3 tires.
New tires made big difference in handling. The tires from TS4N's been used for long time before I put in my LD3 but it still had better traction than stock LD3 tire. It just didn't slip as much and I got more steering out of it. LD3 ran like as if it was sticking to the ground. You know what I mean. The wheels never left the ground with new tires..

Puribong: can you please give me the part number for the extras for the diff when you get them?

puribong

05-15-2003, 06:37 PM

do you mean the part number for the diffs?

hooked_on

05-16-2003, 05:57 AM

Originally posted by puribong
do you mean the part number for the diffs?

Part numbers for the diff gears and everything needed to add the extra gears to the diff

spenzalii

05-16-2003, 11:16 AM

38403 Diff, 6 gear kit, 12T & cross pins

Nitrohouse is currently out of stock (or they never made stock), so I may get them next week

puribong

05-16-2003, 01:53 PM

list price of that 38403 kit is $9.95 according to the manual.
Ofna needs to work on their manuals than their cars... :)

mckrooz

05-19-2003, 09:42 PM

Went to the track to practice with my NTC3 and a guy next to me had a new LD3 with Novarossi S3. I was impressed with it's handling. It handled waay better than my car. I'm still new to tuning and setting up suspensions so that's no wonder. But it handled just as good as the dialed in TC3's that were out. Good job.

save1992

05-19-2003, 11:58 PM

which one is faster the ob4 or the ld3 2speed and how fast does the ld3 1speed run

spenzalii

05-20-2003, 10:04 AM

Speed is pretty much relative to the motor and setup you have. However, if you put the same engine and pipe in both cars, I'd be willing to bet the LD3 would be a bit faster due to it's drivetrain, which has less friction than a belt setup and better handeling due to the lower CG.

As far as the 1 speed goes, that too depends on gearing. Geared at the same ratio of 2nd gear of a two speed, it will reach the same top speed. It would just take longer to get there (much less acceleration)

spenzalii

05-21-2003, 01:31 AM

Did some minor mantainence on the LD3. Swapped shock oil, switched the rear shock mounts to keep the rear from slapping, and went to a 5 tooth spread on the tranny (15/20, 42/37). I got the swaybar kit, but have no clue how to put it on! I wanted to see how the enginge would carry the new ratio (I liked the low end, but wanted a bit more up top), but when I went to run it against my 7 cell XXX-S, i realized I left the fuel in the other car! Bah! Plus it's going to rain all week now! Oh well

hooked_on

05-21-2003, 04:39 AM

Originally posted by puribong
list price of that 38403 kit is $9.95 according to the manual.
Ofna needs to work on their manuals than their cars... :)

Puribong: Have you run the car since adding the extra gears in the diff....

puribong

05-21-2003, 10:42 AM

hooked on, I haven't added 6 gear diffs to my LD3. My LD3 is running with stock diffs. Only things I changed to my LD3 is new set of wheels and tires, heavier shock oil and that's about it.
I plan to swap the shocks with the shocks from my nitro ob4 or but this one..
http://secure400.automatedshops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~wfp16353/st_prod.html?p_prodid=197&p_catid=12&sid=2dODWE0li2fX2lD-55103528181.bf

Integy got few good things for cheap like tires and wheels..

Spenzalii, how much did it cost you for different set of clutchbell gear and spur gear?

hooked_on

05-21-2003, 05:57 PM

Originally posted by puribong
hooked on, I haven't added 6 gear diffs to my LD3. My LD3 is running with stock diffs. Only things I changed to my LD3 is new set of wheels and tires, heavier shock oil and that's about it.
I plan to swap the shocks with the shocks from my nitro ob4 or but this one..
http://secure400.automatedshops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~wfp16353/st_prod.html?p_prodid=197&p_catid=12&sid=2dODWE0li2fX2lD-55103528181.bf

Integy got few good things for cheap like tires and wheels..

Spenzalii, how much did it cost you for different set of clutchbell gear and spur gear?

Puribong: did you then add the diff oil or just leave it with the grease?

puribong

05-22-2003, 11:53 AM

For the diffs, I left it as it came from the factory. I didn't see need of using silicon oil for my bashing purpose with stock engine. Ld3 stock setup has just about good steering that I like. When i go for race later this summer, I will be playing around of diffs..

spenzalii

05-22-2003, 12:10 PM

I think 9.95 each. If I'm not mistaken the gears may be the same as the OB4; I can't remember if they used a screw type clutch bell or of teh shoe type tranny is the same. It went on simple enough; about 20 minutes wrench time, provided you have a set of snap ring pliers. I had to buy a pair of Channel-Lock pliers ($18 bux, but worth it. You can use them for internal and external snap rings and has chanegable tips) but other than that it was a breeze

puribong

05-22-2003, 12:45 PM

hm... 9.95 for a gear? it's pretty expensive for me.....
Spenzalli do you mean the 2speed clutchbell gear on OB4 and LD3 are same??

btw I am trying to figure out way to put my TT engine on LD3. TT engine have SG crank and I think I need some kind of clutchnut for SG crank.

spenzalii

05-22-2003, 01:00 PM

I think so. I can't remember exactly what the price was; I ordered $136 worth of stuff, all told. And yep, that's the clutch bell I was talking about. I'll cross reference the part numbers and see if I'm right later on.

Ther eis a SG flywheel, nut and cone available; I ordered those up too so when I swap motors, I'll be set

puribong

05-22-2003, 02:15 PM

it would have been much better if Ofna had the force12 SG crank version and included in LD3 then I wouldn't need anything for installing hotter motor.....hehe maybe I am asking too much.... Many those newer competition engine now comes in SG crank and rear exashust type...

What happen to that discussion about putting Trx 2.5 on ntc3 and LD3??

spenzalii

05-22-2003, 02:40 PM

A SG shaft for a 5+ year old motor, huh? We better be glad it has a slide carb! Well, I think the clutch stuff was less than 15 bux, so in the long run, it isn't too bad. Besides, you'll need a starter box anyway, so it won't make or break you in the end.

As far as the 2.5 goes, I considered getting a Traxxas header and a NTC3 header, taking it to a machine shop up the street and having them weld the flange from the Traxxas to the AE pipe. Problem solved. It wouldn't be the most economical way to do things, but it won't have any seal problems, which just leaves the clutch problem. For all that, I may as well just go get the Collari XS12 pullstart and go for it, or get a non ps motor and the starter box, if the price gets there.

puribong

05-22-2003, 06:41 PM

I got an email from Bruckner confirmed that they carry parts for LD3. Yes!.. I should go visit them some time soon to look around and see if there is anything I want.. I am thinking about a new motor and pro arms..

jdm3849

05-22-2003, 06:57 PM

What on-line hobby shop currently has the LD3 2-speed in stock?
How much are they selling for? What size allen drivers will I need to be able to strip it down to the bare chassis? (even if it does come with ones, I know they won't be high quality).

puribong

05-22-2003, 07:21 PM

http://www.nitrohouse.com/ofna_ld3.htm
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEKJ3&P=7
http://www.autohausrc.com/newitems.asp

puribong

05-22-2003, 07:23 PM

oh well I don't know the exact size of hex screws but they look to be popular size of screws used by other cars..
Included ones are not that very high quality but works.. hehe

spenzalii

05-22-2003, 08:28 PM

Get a good set of metrix hex drivers and you should be able to take apart everything exept for the pivot ball retainers (they use a 5mm hex). I picked up a matching set from Dynamite and they work well.

hpimonster

05-23-2003, 11:11 PM

Well it took a few smacks in the face, but I am for sure getting the LD3. ON-road is way funner than offroad and if I get the ld3 I'll be able to race at my local track. I've never been to the track, but are there any need to know about racing besides watching your car at all times???

spenzalii

05-24-2003, 06:25 PM

Never turn your radio on in the pits (or anywhere else) without a frequency flag, if their's no chance you can win, don't block the leaders, if you borrow it (ask first!) bring it back, find someone willing to help and most importantly, HAVE FUN!

puribong

05-24-2003, 06:30 PM

Also your track should have some kind of disclaimer or rules posted or hand out... read it.
You might want to pick up extra sets of crystals in different freq..
It is so much a lot more fun if you run your car against many people.
jdm3849, stormerhobbies sells LD3 2speed RTR for $290 but it's on order.. check back later.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OFN34702

ehobbies also sells LD3 and some of its parts..

puribong

05-24-2003, 06:38 PM

Spenzalii, is this the cluch nut you were talking about?
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OFN10098

what do you guys think of these wheels?? any experiences with these? seems a good deal..

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OFN87611

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OFN87616

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OFN87701&showbig=6809

spenzalii

05-25-2003, 11:04 AM

Yep, that's the clutch nut alright. Can't say who exactly has them. My LHS has an inside man at Ofna (or nitrohouse, I can't remember) who he can get Ofna stuff from in 3 days, so that's how I got mine. The wheels are a pretty good deal. I bought their clear blue dish and some black "Y" spoke wheels and haven't had a problem. I wish it would stop raining out here so I could find out how the Force runs on a 5 tooth spread. And still trying to figure out which p/s motor to get. At this rate, I may just break down and get the starter box and any blasted motor...

puribong

05-26-2003, 11:17 AM

kew... I wish my lhs had the ofna crew too.:)
I am planning to pick up couple sets of those wheels. They don't look like made of hard material and wonder if they bond well with tires but for $8 you can't really go wrong..

If I was you , I would go for non ps engine and a cheap starter box. you know some ps engines cost as much as $40 more than its ps version. I'd rather get a startbox if there is much difference in price. Tower sells a duratrax starterbox for $50. some people say it's about same box as ofna true start box. For a small box engine, that box should be enough. I am not sure if stock LD3 flywheel can be used with starterbox.
non ps fantoms and OS cv-r go for less than $100 these days... I think is a good deal.
Have you heard of STS MT12 engine? I've heard good things about it and it's pretty cheap.
https://mmm1504.boca15-verio.com/team78/web_store/web_store.cgi?page=sts_main.html&cart_id=3946874_48383

hooked_on

05-26-2003, 06:10 PM

Guys,

I just read the article in RC Car Action about the Ofna LD3 and they said that the castor is set at 10 degrees? The NTC3 had three castor clips and you could move the clips around repositioning the top A arms?

Please tell me Ofna haven't over looked this vital adjustment?

spenzalii

05-27-2003, 09:22 AM

I wish I had read this thread before I put the car away! I think it does have the castor clips on the upper arm, but I'll check 4 sure 2nite.

I finally got to run the car for a bit yesterday b4 the receiver battery died (the failsafe works!) Against my 9 turn, 7 cell, 3400mah XXX-S, it held it's own (or is that the other way around). It got the jump on me (of course) but the LD3 ran him down, and tracked straight, to boot. Still has a funny idle, even lengthening the pressure line. I'll try sealing the carb this week, maybe that will do the trick.

I've seen the deals on thise motors and have heard nice things on the STS line of motors. I kind of wanted to keep the ps on the RTR and get the baddest non ps I could afford in the full option once that comes out. However, tugging that cord can be as much of a pain as lugging the starter box. Pick your poison, I suppose. When I do get the bax, I'll either get the AE or the Ofna multi box. They're already set up for the LD3/TC3 and are smaller than your normal box. Not quite as small as teh box for the Reflex, but small nonetheless, and the choice of just about everybody at the track

puribong

05-27-2003, 12:33 PM

From what I know castor angle on LD3 is adjustable from 8-14 degrees.. go to here and click on LD3 to see the specs. they listed that castor angle is adjustable from 8-14 deg. I gotta take a look at my car later when I get home..
http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?application=hongnor

puribong

05-27-2003, 03:38 PM

If you want to get little more out of your force12 engine, this is the artcle tells you how to mod force12 engine. Well this is not for me for those who like to play with engine, this maybe for you..

puribong

05-27-2003, 03:39 PM

If you want to get little more out of your force12 engine, this is the artcle tells you how to mod force12 engine. Well this is not for me for those who like to play with engine, this maybe for you..

http://www.nitrorc.com/mods/engines/force_12_engine_mods.htm

puribong

05-27-2003, 07:00 PM

hooked on, I am looking at my car and I see caster is adjustable with clips.

Spenzalii, so with 5 tooth aparts, did you notice lots of improvment on top speed?? If ir ran down 7cell, 9turn xxx-s that's pretty fast isn't it?

hooked_on

05-28-2003, 05:49 AM

Originally posted by puribong
hooked on, I am looking at my car and I see caster is adjustable with clips.

Spenzalii, so with 5 tooth aparts, did you notice lots of improvment on top speed?? If ir ran down 7cell, 9turn xxx-s that's pretty fast isn't it?

Puribong: How many clips are there? The NTC3 Has three and you can either place them either side of the arm or all to the rear or all to the frnt of the A arm, is the LD3 the same?

spenzalii

05-28-2003, 10:14 AM

I believe it's 2 clips: either all up front, split, or all in the back.

And yep, my XXX-S is hella quick. And that's with a SpeedGems machine wound 9 turn. I want to swap to a D5 or Epic Binary2 at some point. It's instant speed, no loading up, no finicky carb, just point and squeeze. And those 3400s are the truth! That said, theyre's something about the sound of the two speed shifting into gear that gets me every time... As far as the top speed goes, yes it seems a bit higher, but not that noticable. I may need the two speed to shift a little earlier to take advantage of the gearing a bit more.

puribong

05-29-2003, 04:10 PM

I also got a electric touring car but I haven't touched it for long time. I acutally drove it like less than 10 times total b/c I like nitro better. These days nitro cars got really cheap compared to like 5 years ago. Some nitro cars with engine cost acutally less than electric car kit... that's funny. no wonder why people are switching to nitro.
Yeah electric car is easy to play.. Push throttle and go...sometimes I miss driving an electric cars but it's missing sound of an engine and smoke and power.

spenzalii

05-29-2003, 04:19 PM

That's why I have both! Besides, I don't feel loke cutting holes in certain bodies. Take my Jaguar S type (no that's not a typo)...

puribong

06-01-2003, 12:49 PM

hehe it's better to have more than less you know... more money is better than little money.
It's been raining here in nyc.. The rain stopped this morning but the road is still messy for playing with the car. Gotta wait one or two more days for road to clean up but by the time the road is clean, it is going to be weekdays and I will be going to school and working. That sux..

spenzalii

06-02-2003, 09:48 AM

FINALLY got to race the car yesterday. Well, sort of. I missed the first round of qualifying (religion comes first, you know). Got to register for the second. During open practice, the car ran great. Very stable, very straight. I just can't drive for crap! In any case, I thought I'd lengthen the fuel line to match the pressure line. Bad idea. Once the race started, it WOULD NOT stay on. 2 seconds and off, every time. Needness to say, my run was scrubbed. But, since the class was small, I still made the main (most likely d main...) Switching the fuel line and tweaking the needles did me good, and I was off to the races the next open practice (or as off as the little Force 12 would let me)

Race time: I'm on the line, ready to go. I'm able to avoid the jam at the start, and feel pretty good coming around the chicane to the back straight. Unfortunately, I misjudged the turn and hit the corner marker (did I mention I can't drive?) This launched the car 5 feet in the air, doing a barrel roll and landing between the curb and grass, upside down. 20 seconds and loser marshalls later, I was back on the track. Needless to say, I came in dead last. Damage: torn rear wing (which made a major difference coming into and out of turns), shock ball stud ripped from the front lower arm, and bent drive shaft (which explained the dramatic loss of acceleration). Nothing else. This car is TOUGH! I took the engine down and sealed everything and will see if the TC3 shaft will fit. If it does, I'm getting the ti version. The only thing else I need is a starter box (a definate necessity) and more motor. 45shore front and 40 shore rear kept the car planted, for sure, but at the expense of the tires. My rear Nitro Shoes are chunking pretty bad, while the front look fine. Maybe I'll try sone H13 slicks next time out. Either that or the yellor rubber RdLogics I have stashed somewhere. Did I mention I need more motor?

puribong

06-03-2003, 12:27 PM

wow... you had some damage on your LD3.....bent shaft tells me how hardly it landed on the ground. I was also wondering if TC3 shaft would fit on LD3..... Have you found any TC3 parts that is interchangble with LD3?
Looks like Force12 has been giving you hard time.. Have you tried to seal the motor? If sealing the motor doesn't help........ hm.. maybe a new engine be the solution? btw how did Force12 keep up with other on the straight?
Damn... I want to race too... but these days I don't even got a time to play with it mainly due to the school.

spenzalii

06-03-2003, 12:36 PM

Well, I sealed it when I got home that night, so I'll see if that does the trick. I actually haven't tried to swap parts since the LHS I've been to has been able to get my parts, more or less. I'm still waiting for the diffs to show up. I straightened the shaft as much as I could, but I'm going to need a new one. The shop can't get the shaft from Ofna until next week (he orders from them Monday morning, and I didn't get there till after work) and they were out of the NTC3 shaft. There's another shop that may have them which I'll try to get to this afternoon.

Now, motor speed I suppose is relative. Considering the mildest motor out there was a Fantom .12 with boost bottle attached, I was outclassed all around. There may have been a TC3 with the TT .12 in it, but I'm not sure. I guess it didn't do too bad while it ran:rolleyes:

puribong

06-03-2003, 01:38 PM

If fantom 12 was the mildest motor, hehe I can imagine what other people was running with. Force12 can keep up with TT12 but TT12 is have much more reliable carb..
Use Force12 until it retires and get something better.

I am thinking about getting one of these engines.
Thunder Tiger Evo12http://www.rcmodels.com/rc-ttr-9464.html
OS 12CVR http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ73&P=7
dirt cheap...

http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4128
only 1.5HP at $110 only.... but rear exhaust so I will need rear exhaust manifold.

puribong

06-03-2003, 01:41 PM

btw, acehardwarehobbies have Mugen MTX-2 Prospec for $200... I want one....

spenzalii

06-03-2003, 02:07 PM

Yep, I was thinking about the Ofna/Picco, but picco carbs are notoriously finicky and I seriously doubt 1.5hp is likely. 1.25 maybe. Any OS is rock solid in their tuneability, at the expense of some top end. The Fantom ran pretty quick, considering it was strapped to a RS4 3. And I saw a STS motor kick the crap out of quite a few motors out there.

puribong

06-04-2003, 03:41 PM

most likely I will be getting CVR non ps version mainly becuase its reliability. Still considering TT Evo12 though. I rather scrifice some power for reliablility..:)
btw do you know if stock LD3 engine mount and flywheel can be used with non ps engine to use a starterbox??

nitrohouse now have LD3 parts available at its website.

puribong

06-04-2003, 04:12 PM

go to here http://www.jerryshobbycenter.com/search.asp
and click on engine.. They got good price on some engines like STS 3 port($95)...

spenzalii

06-04-2003, 04:28 PM

Good looking out on the nitrohouse update. I bumped my Force Sunday with no problem with the included mounts, so I wouldn't worry about that. BTW, the TC3 shaft will NOT fit. The ball on the end is a bit too large, and the overall shaft is too long. I'll settle on a motor B4 the month is out. I may end up sticking with it for a month or so. I have a wedding to pay for!

Information Man

06-07-2003, 09:48 AM

I have been working hard on my LD3, has anyone else noticed that alot of the screw holes are stripped when you remove the screw ?? you can actually see the plastic threads stuck to the screw. Other than that my LD3 has been 100% perfect.

I was looking to solve this problem and stubbled across www.benderstore.com (http://www.benderstore.com)
The guy sells all sorts of fasteners for RC kits, so I wrote him to see if they had a kit made for the LD3, he wrote me back saying he did have a kit made but it is not list on the site as they are making a new online store.

they gave me this link
LD3 screw kit (http://www.benderstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=66_67_117_118_121_122&products_id=179)

I may try one I like the idea of having not only a ton of extra fasteners, but also the aspect of stainless steel will make my kit stand out from the rest..

so just thought I would post it incase anyone else is looking for stuff fot there LD3's

thanks

Info man

puribong

06-11-2003, 11:39 AM

What happened to my fuel?:confused:
I remember I had like 3-4 tanks last of fuel in the fuel bottle but fuel is gone now. I am off today so I was gonna play with my LD3 but no fuel..... this is ***...
:mad:

spenzalii

06-11-2003, 03:36 PM

Sounds like it's time to go to the shop and grab some. I hate leaving out without gas...

puribong

06-11-2003, 04:08 PM

I might try a different brand fuel to see if there is any difference...
I've been using Trinity monster 20% nitro. I might try 20% wildcat quickfire or duratrax o'donnell 20%.. Do you have any experience with these fuel?

spenzalii

06-11-2003, 04:57 PM

Nope. Just Blue Thunder and the Trinity Monster fuel. It shouldn't be too much of a problem. You may have to reset the needles, but that's about it.

I haven't run my car since I flipped it last Sunday. Been too busy moving my fiance' to our new place. What a pain. Hopefully my driveshaft will come in this week. I don't like the idea of using the bent one in there, even if I straightened it out as much as I could. I hope sealing the carb did the trick for the blasted stalling thing. Now to get the starter box and new engine. Either the STS, the Ofna Picco or buy a used Sirio off someone else. I just can't decide.

puribong

06-12-2003, 06:03 PM

oh well, I will pick up whatever fuel is there... don't want to be stressed by fuel seletions.. hehe already have too much things to worry about....
You lucky guy.... hehe I wish I get married with my gf too...... gotta wait 4-5 more years..... hopefully I stay with same one until that time comes... never know , can never predict future...

One of my friend pick up HPI savage 21 few days ago. maybe that truck will be interesting to watch..

Information Man

06-12-2003, 11:16 PM

The Savage is one of the most popular MT's out.

As for fuels whatever fuel you get ( if different from your 1st gallon ). Make sure you idle a few tank before you hit the streets.changing fuels is sometimes like re-breaking in your engine, so take it easy the first few tanks, and no matter what your choice in fuels you'll be OK.

Info Man

spenzalii

06-13-2003, 09:53 AM

Yep. Wedding in august. Doesn't give me too much time, does it? With all the bloody rain over here I haven't had a chance to try to start the car since I flipped it. It's supposed to be sunny Sunday (race day) but O promised my best man I'd go with him and run interference with this other girl and her father. Another blasted race day wasted. At this rate, the season will be open until November and I'll only have 3 points... I haven't even had time to build my new shocks yet!

puribong

06-13-2003, 03:32 PM

Thanks for great info, infoman.

wedding in august would be great. congraturation.

What shocks did you get? Threaded ones?
3 point for the season can be a track record?? :)

spenzalii

06-13-2003, 03:49 PM

LOL the futile attempt award, i suppose. At least I'd be a shoe in for most improved next season!

yep, I ordered the threaded shocks. he ends are a bit different, so I either have to take the call ends off the old shocks or get some 4-40 screws to mount them, which I did. For all that, I could have gt some adjustable 'clicker' shocks! Oh well, they look nice. If I can ever finish building them

spenzalii

06-17-2003, 04:09 PM

GGGGGGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

I'm about two seconds from burrying this Force 12. I took it apart, cleaned it, sealed it up, reinstalled it. Reset the nedles to the stock settings (flush low end, 2-2 1/2 high end) It takes almost 30 seconds of good tugging at the pull start before it will turn (and a healthy bit of open throttle). It will putter for a few seconds at slow idle, but try to give it full wack (or any more than 1/5 throttle) and it dies. Wash, rinse and repeat. I can't tell if the low end is off wack or the high end. The sad thing is, I can't keep it started long enough to tell, let along get the thing to any kind of opperating temp.

pb, you've has some success with this thing. What do you suggest? If I can't figure this thing out (and even if I can) my crystal ball sees a 15 CVRX making it's way in the LD3 in the very near future

puribong

06-17-2003, 05:13 PM

I don't really know why your Force12 doing that. Looks like needle setting is good.
2.5-3.5 on highend and flush lowend is factory default setting for break in.
Have you tried different fresh glow plugs?
Try longer exshust line for more consistent pressure.

Information Man

06-17-2003, 11:43 PM

I found no problems with the force .12, after breaking it in I swapped it, but break in was a breeze. The tip about a longer fule line for the exhaust is 100% correct, the stock line is way to short and causes all kinds of bubbles to get mixed in with the fuel making it hell to set the engine. also change the stock plug to a good name brand one. and retry. Also I know this might sound silly but have you rechecked how you put the engine back together. My father changed a shaft on his OS .15 and called me up with the same symptoms your talking about. He swore up and down that he built it right and folled the instructions to the letter. He was wrong, his piston was turn 180 degrees not letting it exhaust out of the right port. the engine ran but ran very poorly was hard to start.

so double check your piston and sleeve..

Info Man

spenzalii

06-18-2003, 09:04 AM

I extended the exhaust line a while ago, so that can't be it. And I didn't touch the piston or sleeve; just sealed up the carb and backplate. The glowplug glows nice and orange, and the plug charger is fully powered. I'm going to check out the low speed needle again just to be sure it's not actually running lean. I'm sure the carb is on crack, but for the price of a new carb, I may as well just get a better engine. I have to do something. As it stands, if I order from Tower, I won't get it until next week, and if I can't get this thing running, there's no going to the track this Sunday (why pay $175 for an engine when you can get it for $130?) It's so depressing...:(

puribong

06-18-2003, 12:45 PM

Spenzalli, try Ofna forum.. you know they got a forum for Force series engine.. People their might have had similar problems who knows... I thought it was either glow plug or exshaust line b/c my TT engine had the similar problems like yours when i first got it and it was fixed after I lengthen the pressure line by coule inches and tried a brand new plug. or maybe you got the buggy carb from the beginning...

spenzalii

06-20-2003, 08:36 AM

Been thete and done that. I'll try tnkering with the low speed needle (I really think that's where the problem is, it may be a bit lean) and see if I can borrow a starter box from someone. It will have to do for the time being. But next week, the CVRX will be in it's place. If I had bought a starter box already, I'd shoehorn the .15 RX BB in there for kicks: more low end than a .12, less gas consumption than a .21

save1992

06-21-2003, 11:05 AM

is this car better than a tc3 if so why?

spenzalii

06-21-2003, 03:03 PM

Define 'better'. If you mean better value, without question. Just look at what either the kit or RTR TC3 gives you and what the RTR LD3 alone gives you. The kit version, once it comes out, will have a few more options (threaded shocks, front one way, Ofna/Picco .12) for a comparable price (no more than a $50 difference, I bet).

Quality? Depends on who you ask. The plastics have a much better feel than the TC3 and are thicker overall, but there are people who dispise Ofna's build quality, and sometimes rightfully so. However, I haven't had a problem with their product, and it's not like Associated hasn't had it's problems ('the fix', screw problems, tank problems and rear toe come to mind, which TC3 owners forget about when it comes time to bash the LD3)

Suppoprt? Associated runs away with that. An AE product automatically has cache and presitge like a BMW. With factoory support, sponsored drivers and a slew of people making aftermarket everything, you can customise it any way you want and always find parts for it. The LD3, being new and imported from Asia, isn't even close with support (factory or aftermarket) and having the same reputation as a Hyundai in some circles, it's a bit harder to convince people.

All things being equal, I just like the LD3 better. The value attracted me and out the box it runs well. But to each his own

puribong

06-23-2003, 03:29 PM

hehe.. nice said spenzalli..
btw Hyundai now makes pretty good car for the money just like ofna LD3. Their car is like 10000times different from 10 years ago........ Friend of mine owns Hyundai 2003 Tiburon and that car is butter smooth with very good power..

spenzalii

06-23-2003, 03:35 PM

Thank you, thank you. My dissertation would have been longer, but my son was trying to drag me to the car for a ride. It's amazing what a 2 year old knows. In any case, the first good Sunday in a while and I couldn't go racing. Since the new engine should be here Tomorrow or Wednesday, I didn't see the point with struggling with the ol' redhead all afternoon just to get beat by a Fantom in my class and have it stall out again. So I worked on my XXX-S and spent time with the missez instead. I bought a Nissan Altima body for it and finished prepping and masking it. I should be able to paint it sometime this week. It's gonna be sick!

puribong

06-23-2003, 03:56 PM

cool.. Your son will try to give you a lesson later on hehehe...... I was like that to my parents back in the days... hehe
let me know how 15CVRX performs. maybe little more power than 12CVR?

spenzalii

06-23-2003, 04:03 PM

It's supposed to have a bit more grunt, especially on the bottom. I realise I sacrificed a deal of of absolute power by not getting a Mugen, NovaRossi, Picco, Sirio, et.al, but I just want something that has more kick than the Force (just about anything shy of a .12fe should!) that will hold a tune without me wanting to burry it in the sand. And at $124, the .15 CVR-X fit the bill to the tee

Information Man

06-23-2003, 07:12 PM

I have a OS CV .15 (http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2010.html), In my LD3 and with a little tuning of the 2 Speed I am very happy with the performance not only of the LD3 but the engine as well. As a matter of fact I have had little to no problems with the LD3.

Problems:

1. Broken circlip on rear shock piston ( fixed )

2. Stripped Read Turn Buckle ( Crash & Fixed )

3. Broken circlip on rear shock piston ( fixed again )

and that is all.

I have also done some work to take some of the slop out of the rear ( until I can get rear arms )

I also re-did the entire setup, it was a little off for my liking.

as for LD3 vs TC3 I don't really care and niether should anyone else they are both great kits. TC3 has a proven history of problems and greatness..but come to think of it so do all kits when they first come out. the RC industry is trying to please the consumer and that is an almost impossible feat.

I think Ofna has a winner on it's hands with the LD3, in time it will be a force to be dealt with.

...until something else new comes out.. :p

so no matter what kit you have, take time to enjoy it..

Info Man

spenzalii

06-24-2003, 08:58 AM

And the congregation says, 'yea-men' brother! I haven't had too many problems except with the engine. I still have to order the driveshaft, which I'll probably do when I get the O'donnel head from Nitrohouse. Maybe I'll be able to race this week

puribong

06-24-2003, 06:40 PM

here is pics of my ld3. bad quality pic.. gotta get digicam.

puribong

06-24-2003, 06:48 PM

another pic.

puribong

06-24-2003, 06:48 PM

Last ld3 pic.

spenzalii

06-25-2003, 09:34 AM

Still running the stock tires, I see. You'll notice a HUGE difference once you switch up

puribong

06-25-2003, 06:07 PM

hehe stock tires and rims were installed just for the pics just b/c they are cleaner.
yeah stock tires slips too much

here is pic of my ts4n.

puribong

06-25-2003, 06:08 PM

another pic

New dude

06-26-2003, 05:26 PM

Originally posted by puribong
hehe.. nice said spenzalli..
btw Hyundai now makes pretty good car for the money just like ofna LD3. Their car is like 10000times different from 10 years ago........ Friend of mine owns Hyundai 2003 Tiburon and that car is butter smooth with very good power.. Does the ld3 fit hpi bodies:confused: How much did you pay for your LD3

spenzalii

06-26-2003, 05:32 PM

Just about any 200mm body will fit the LD3, so yes. just make sure to mark the body post holes and the engone head cutout as well

New dude

06-26-2003, 05:35 PM

Will The HPI 200m bodies fit the LD3.For an estimate how fast is the LD3 with the Single speed

puribong

06-26-2003, 07:21 PM

there are many places that sells LD3 online. First check out your lhs first. If they stock LD3, check price and compare it online price. If lhs's price is competitive, get it from lhs.
I own a single speed version of LD3 and I haven't clocked car with radar gun or anything but I assume it goes about 35-40mph. Speed is really a matter of gearing and engine so almost any good cars with same gearing ratio and same engine will produce about same speed so don't be so concerned about speed.
If you are gonna get LD3, then go for 2speed RTR or Pro version. 2speed unit itself cost a lot so if you need 2 speed you better off buying at first time..

Yeah just about any HPI 200mm body will fit on LD3. Any 200mm body will do.

For the price, LD3 is hard to beat. Drive one for your self, you will like it.

Information Man

06-26-2003, 07:58 PM

the LD3 is a great value !!

and people are right, get the 2 speed RTR or the Pro kit

and you can't go wrong !!

Nightmare_au

06-27-2003, 06:08 AM

I have the LD3 pro coming (come on Mr postman! 2 days left..) :)

now questions, This is going to be my first onroad car, I have a 1/8 buggy and have 35wt/40wt shock oil in my buggy, will 40wt/40wt shock oil be ok for a onroad car or should I run something thicker like 50 or 60wt?

Diff oil - I am thinking of 10k or 7k in front and 3k in rear, what are you guys running?

:cool:

spenzalii

06-27-2003, 09:13 AM

For teh shock oil, definately something in the 50-60wt. range, depending on how rough the surface is. As far as the diffoil goes, I'll have to check and see. I'm still running the diff grease it came with until my 6 gear diffs come in (I may have to order them myself) BTW, if you have a scanner, could you post a copy of the instructions for the sway bars? I bought the kit, but it had no instructions and it doesn't reference them in the RTR manual.

The CVR came in! Unfortunately, it took me 2 days to get it in. Wednesday I couldn't get to it until 11pm (had to take my little one to his mom's house). Being that it was late and I was tired, I ran into more problems than I anticipated. The crank is a little bit longer on the OS than the Force, leading me to believe there may be some clearance issues. I tried removing the drive plate off the OS, but then the pilot shaft wouldn't fit. So, I put it back on, put the clutch together and thought it was god from there. Not quite. The pullstart is a bit bigger than on the Force, causing the mounts to sit funny. GRRRR. Ok, pull out the supplied engine spacers. Now it goes on with no problem, but creates two more. First, it sits ridiculously high off the chasis, like I crammed a .21 in there. Second, because it sat so high, the clutch bell gear rubbed the shock tower trying to gain the right gear alignment. AAARRRGGGHHH! So I put it down around 1:15 and went to sleep, thinking something had to get cut, either the crank or the shock tower.

Chewing it over in my head at work Thursday, I figured what I really needed is just less space between the engine and the mounts. So I bought some washers and tried that. BINGO! Height not to tall and I can now move the motor into position. Of course, after I get everything buttoned down and the wheels put on, I feel the driveshaft rubbing, but I can't see where (I'm still running the slightly bent shaft). So I tear everything down to the gearbox, checking to see if any of the gears are shot. Come to find out, that's all fine; the motor mount was shifted too far to the left, causing the shaft input block to rub. So, readjusting that and putting it back together, it's now ready to go. Alas, not a drop of fuel got to it since I took too much time working on thecar, supervising painting a body (I let my buddy do it in the hopes of getting him into the hobby), talking to the misses, and conducting therapy with one of my young pai'quans on life, liberty and the pursuit of women. Maybe tonite, I'm not sure. Now I have to order shaft, new pinion gears (push the ratio up to take advantage of the torque) and the 6 gear diff. The fun never ends, does it?

Information Man

06-27-2003, 07:33 PM

spenzalii

Here is the easy fix !!

Use the pull start and crack shaft from the force.

trust me it works and works well

I did it to mine with no problem and or complications
Fits 100% and no loss in performance. No matter what anybody says about the force it is not that bad of a crackshaft at all

do it and you will see I am right

Info Man

spenzalii

06-28-2003, 07:59 PM

I'll keep that in mind. Fortunately, I got everything in place. Of course, break in was a whole other story...

Friday, no matter what I did, the engine would not turn over. New lines, good glow plug, new battery, fresh gas, nothing. I tugged that pull starter until my arm hurt for 45 minutes before I just gave up. I couldn't believe it. The legendary OS starting was letting me down before I could even get it started! So I put it aside and reached for old reliable, the XXX-S. After sleeping on it, i checked the book and reset the high end needle, just in case. I heated the block up with my lady's blow dryer (like I need it for anything else, I'm bald), shook the fuel up and tried it again. After 10 tugs, it fired to life. Now it will go with 3 tops. I'm on tank 7 now, and still leaning it out. The car gives me a small indication of what it will do just before the car runs out of fuel and it leans itself out. Once it's broken in, this thing will be in the wind!

I took the time to fix some stuff while I was at it. I replaced the body mounts that broke with the crash, slid some fuel tubing on the brake linkage (it's funny, I had to drastically shorten the throttle spring when I switched engines, which threw off the brake linkage setup) to increase stopping power and made washers out of the fuel tubing and slid them under the tank to cut down on the vibration and fuel foming (that worked wonders and saven me a trip for some o-rings). I had to come in and recharge the receiver battery (the failsafe works wonders!), so I should go back at it later on tonite!

Information Man

06-28-2003, 09:34 PM

I am glad to see all going well !!

I don't know what type of track you run on ( if any )
but I turned the adjustment on my 2-speed for it to shift a little earlier and BAM !!! the cars sees to have picked up a HUGE amount of new found torque and speed.

here is what I have

O.S .15 CV ( .68hp )
Paris Ripple Pipe ( looks same as stock )
stock header..

I am so amazed by this car, gave some 705's a run for there money and at a fraction of the price !!

best R/C investment I have made in a long long time !

puribong

06-29-2003, 12:59 PM

haha good to hear that you guys love your LD3.
Infoman, so crankshaft on force and CV is interchangble?

btw, I've never thought of putting small piece of fuel tubing under fuel tank. Thanks for the tip. I will do the same. so Spenzallii you are in love with OS carb don't you especially compared to Force?

I have not been able to run my LD3 for long time. I got no time these days especially on the weekends, I have to work from 5-6am to 5-6pm and by time I get home, it is like around 7-8pm. I've been just looking at my car. hehe car is still relatively clean and doesn't look like 3months old car. I gotta make it dirty one day......:)

Information Man

06-29-2003, 09:49 PM

puribong

Yup 100 %
I am also using the force 12 carb on my OS as well
runs like a charm !!

spenzalii

06-30-2003, 10:35 AM

????? Isn't that a bit backwards? The OS carb is the hot setup, unless the CV came with the rotary carb.

But the CV-R is a beaut. Starts with 2 tugs max. Still haven't completely broken it in, but it's getting close. It will easily break the tires looseif you give it too much gas. I can't wait to see what it will do once it's fully tuned. Hopefully it will suck up less gas, because now it's drinking it down like it's free! I'll have to get another gallon by time I'm done (I had gone thru 1/4 gallon with the Force already)

I've been looking at the pro, and it does look sweet. But I think I'll wait until the full option hits the streets b4 getting another one.

Information Man

06-30-2003, 08:16 PM

spenzalii

You're right, my CV did have the rotary carb, now the LD3 manual states that you can put one it, but I could not figure it out !?!
and really I have lost little to no performance, I love OS and I love my ld3.

I am soon to upgrade yet again, I'll keep you posted

Info Man

Nightmare_au

07-01-2003, 04:23 AM

Here ya go.. :)
http://winsoft.net.au/~stephen/rccar/ld3pro_stabs.gif

You may want to view the Super Larger Image (http://winsoft.net.au/~stephen/rccar/ld3pro_stab.gif)

Originally posted by spenzalii
For teh shock oil, definately something in the 50-60wt. range, depending on how rough the surface is. As far as the diffoil goes, I'll have to check and see. I'm still running the diff grease it came with until my 6 gear diffs come in (I may have to order them myself) BTW, if you have a scanner, could you post a copy of the instructions for the sway bars? I bought the kit, but it had no instructions and it doesn't reference them in the RTR manual.

puribong

07-01-2003, 03:08 PM

LD3 pro($250) is out and in stock at nitrohouse.com. They also got every spare parts and option parts for LD3 on their webpage.
just to let you guys know in case, you didn't already know.

Nightmare_au

07-02-2003, 01:46 AM

Good to see you guys don't get "taxed" after OFNA rebages the LD3. I don't know what the go is in Australia, maybe some optional gold plate is included lol. Anyone got a UK Price?

HongKong Price: approxx US$250
USA Price: (nitrohouse) US$250
Australia: US$440 !!

:(

spenzalii

07-02-2003, 01:33 PM

Thanks for the instructions nightmare. A little blurry, but I should be able to figure it out (I Hope)

The CVR is about broken in. All I can say is, I Need More Gear! The short gearing won't let the car wind out like it's capable of. But it has some nice acceleration. A bit too much, as I keep spinning the tires more than anything else. I'll either go 18/23 or 19/24 on the clutch bell. I'll leave the spur alone for the time being. Now if I can find a shop that has them before Thursday, I'll be set

Information Man

07-03-2003, 11:22 PM

Has anyone noticed this little oddity,

the LD3 RTR Pushes the brake linkage towards the rear of the car in order to apply brakes.

Yet in the Pro version it pulls the brakes ( according to the pictures )

I have the RTR, and there is no way I can change the direction of braking, but I take it that pulling is better than pushing ??

since the PRO pulls the brake..

I dunno, just struck me as odd !?!

Nightmare_au

07-03-2003, 11:26 PM

My LD3 Pro pushes the brake lever........

Information Man

07-04-2003, 06:47 AM

Thanks, Just something I wanted to know. I knew my eyes were tricking me !!!

samc47

07-04-2003, 03:59 PM

Info man,
I changed mine to the pro style.
Hope the picture shows up.

Information Man

07-04-2003, 05:20 PM

samc47

Sorry I do not see a picture ?? :(

Luckyman4

07-08-2003, 11:01 AM

Any of you guys know if the LD3 PRO is available for side exhaust engines? I know it's usually sold with a rear exhaust manifold/pipe, but is a side exhaust kit available too? Looks like I'd have to buy a side exhaust manifold separately to use my current engines ... :confused:

-John

spenzalii

07-08-2003, 11:23 AM

Nope, only rear exhaust. The side exhaust manifold runs about $12.99 from Ofna. I'm not sure what the AE version costs, but it should work as well

Luckyman4

07-08-2003, 11:34 AM

Thanks Spenzalli! ... just what I needed to know.

Looking at the prices at Nitrohouse, $250 w/out engine & $320 w/picco 12. Adding a side X pipe puts it at about $265 for me to use my current engines ... for another $55 I get a new picco. Dang, as usual it all boils down to money ... or the lack of it, lol.

I'm gonna have to sell off some stuff in order to buy either one, so I'll have to think about what, if any, of my other RC stuff I can bear to part with. I've got two OB4 Pros right now ... I'm still tempted to just buy a new OB4 pro kit since the price is so low. I've had good success with the OB4 Pro, it's just that I've got that "gotta get the latest stuff" itch and it MUST be scratched, somehow! thanks again!!! -John

:cool:

spenzalii

07-08-2003, 11:37 AM

Low kit price, true, but it may be harder to find parts for it now that Ofna is moving on with the LD3. It really is a nice ride, to be sure. Which engines do you have, btw?

Luckyman4

07-08-2003, 11:56 AM

Spenzalli,

I currently have an a Ofna Force .12 Pro (NIB, love the porting on it), a Yokomo XR-12 (also NIB but it's an SG shaft and I don't have a clutch to fit it to the OB4), an older ofna redhead that I put a Force .15 Pro piston/sleeve in, and a couple of OS CV 12s/15s with O'Donnell heads that I had "osrocket" resize the sleeves on that really run well on our local short parking lot track.

I hear you on the OB4 parts availability. On one hand, OB4s are going cheap these days and a guy can stock up on stuff. On the other hand ... that LD3 Pro sure looks SWEET! I know a few of the OB4 parts will carry over to the LD3 (a-arms, pivot balls, clutch & clutch bell, shocks, not sure about anything else). A lot will depend on what I can get out of my OB4's.

btw, I'm not racing at a super competitive level where horsepower dominates. Last year and this I've been able to beat a variety of NTC3s, Reflexes, & RS4 3s running the OB4 pro with a OS 12 CV w/Odonnell head & squished sleeve. Our short track is narrow and bumpy so punch and driving skill count for more than car/HP. In other words, I'm winning with I have, I'm just drooling on my bib lusting after the LD3 Pro! :D