Mugen MBX-4, XR, RR Forum v1.0

[jasonrcfreak]

National RC is a hobby shop headquartered in the Seattle area. Their web address is: www.nationalrc.com
I haven't ordered anything from them......yet! :D
It looks like they cater to Nitro addicts. :D

[BuggyBoy]

lol shawn you call that a buggy?

[DLF]

Hey guys. I've asked this question already and didn't get a response so I'll try again.

My rear diff is leaking after the car only being run a few times. I've heard that the diffs leaking is normal. But this soon? What's the story with this?

Dana F

[Shawn_S]

Originally posted by BuggyBoy
lol shawn you call that a buggy?

y? watz wrong w/it?
I'm gettin a 063 pipe soon

[DLF]

Does anyone else find the XR flywheel to be insanely to narrow? Reminds me of a pullstart flywheel for an RC10GT. Does anyone make a wider flywheel?

Dana F

[DLF]

I'm collecting links to web pages selling hop up and regular parts for the MBX-4. I currently have:
http://www.generalsilicones.com]
andhttp://www.racinghardcore.com

Any others?

Dana F

[makaluch]

DLF - It is pretty normal for the diffs to leak a little, but not so soon. Did you overfill them? The fluid should not pass the center of the cross pins...half full. Resist the temptation to tighten down the ring gear because you WILL strip the diff case.

I believe any .21 flywheel will work on the Mugens. I suggest the OS ones...they're thicker and have a little weight to them. I prefer a flywheel that's not superlight. It "feels" like it improves mid-range through sweepers and corners because the flywheel's weight is already in motion(inertia). It will take longer to make good RPM's though. Just my 2 cents:) Mark

[DLF]

Thanks for the info Makaluch. As for the flywheels you speak of, OS doesn't seem to have anything like that on their web page. You wouldn't by chance have a link or part number for one of the mentioned flywheels, would you? Thanks.

Dana F

[baileym]

DLF,

It sounds like you might be overfilling your diffs. Are you running with the o-rings in the diff? Mine leaks also, but I don't run any o-rings in there. I just refill it often.

[DLF]

My diffs are built per the instructions. Only my rear diff appears to be leaking. I noticed the bottom of the chassis wet when I picked the car up from the bench one day. I'm thinking that since the threads in the diff case are cut the first time you run the screws in, it's possible that I didn't tighten one or more of the screws enough. I'll disassemble the unit this coming week and see what I find. Thanks for the info guys.

makaluch, how about that flywheel? :D

Dana F

[baileym]

DLF,

If all else fails, check to make sure the diff case is truly straight. Mine were not perfect from the factory. I am referring to the side that touches the metal gear. Mine was about a half a mm uneven, and it didn't make good contact with the metal gear, even with the seal in there. I used a sanding block to take a tiny bit of material off and make it all even. This helped some. If you can't get it fixed still, just buy a new diff case and o-rings.

[DLF]

Extreamly valid point, baileym. I never thought of that possibility. In fact, I'd be willing to bet that that is more likely the problem. Thanks. I'll look into that.

Dana F

[makaluch]

Peek at this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXD218&P=7 and see what you think.

Type .21 flywheel in Tower Hobbies search. This link is a Duratrax 4-shoe setup. The price is right for testing and it comes with everything except the acorn behind the flywheel. Depending on your motor and the track, four shoes might help you pull out of corners better. Increase the spring weight or decrease shoe weight if your clutch engages too soon (bogs at low rpm). A common mistake is to lean out the motor for better acceleration. If you're running clean and good, try to tune your clutch or bell to achieve what you're after.

Good call, baileym !

[jasonrcfreak]

Greetings!!
I've got a question about my MBX4-RR. There seems to be a lot of play in the steering. It's not the servo. This play is without the servo moving. Any ideas??
Thanks

[BuggyBoy]

http://www.1337info.com/images/Jason/MugenXRWorks_001.jpg
http://www.1337info.com/images/Jason/MugenXRWorks_002.jpg
http://www.1337info.com/images/Jason/newbody.jpg
http://www.1337info.com/images/Jason/newbody2.jpg

[jasonrcfreak]

I'm also considering putting MIP CVD's in my RR. Are they worth it???

[makaluch]

Yeah, they sure are. Less suspension binding and completely rebuildable ! The XR comes standard with CVA's...which are basically backwards CVDs. Just be careful that the center bones are RR specific. The XR and standard MBX use different lengths. Another thing...I used a dremel to etch a small "key" in the pins to prevent it from sliding out. You can also use heat shrink over the knuckle and trim it back to look nice. They're known to fly pins. Good luck with 'em !

Nice to see ya around Jason !!! You can always get me on AIM too !!! I know...I talk too much:D

[jasonrcfreak]

I'm thinking about making the cvd's my next upgrade. Eye candy is nice, but it won't make me any faster. :D What about my steering slop question?? There's some play in the steering. It's not the servo.

[Shawn_S]

buggy boy, y the stock shocks?

I sure you would have got the upgrades?:p Unless those are the upgrades.

[Shawn_S]

nice buggy though, is that the WS7?

[jasonrcfreak]

That looks like the WS7. The regular S7 has a black head.
That body is sweet. :D

[makaluch]

BuggyBoy -

Who makes the Black Braces for the XR ? It's been a little while since I had mine, but I never could find 'em for anything but the RR. Looks great, by the way. Can you post your setup ? I'm sure alot of people will be interested.

I thought the stock shocks were just fine. They look like the stock set with clear (MIP?) booties. Just lightly sand the flashing around the pistons and they're great...the 2-hole pistons.

Oh, one more thing (told ya I talk too much...lol). I think you'd like RB's 9863 pipe better with that motor. You've got a top-end motor with a top end pipe.The 60 series are mid pipes which smooths out the powerband better...IMO

;) Mark

[BuggyBoy]

makaluch they are made by G1 Industries he only makes a few parts for cars they are really nice tho i got the front rear and the fron upper sus mounts i think they were like $65 for all or something forgot. he only makes them for the XR not the RR.

and actually i didnt run the pipe w/ my motor yet its still pretty cold here but ive talked to many guys who have ran it and my motors runs exelent with the pipe.


im upgrading to the big bore shocks soon ive got the $ now but saving for a HDTV hehe them are pricey so my rc upgrades are on hold for a bit them shock are like $120.

but yeah its not done yet :) got few things to do

i have all around MIP CVD kits to i think they are like $48 for each and there are 3 kits theres a person on ebay whos selling them alot nobody ever bids on them tho

[stormperson]

anyone found a solution from breaking rear shock shafts? i broke one bashing on a jump i only got 15 feet distance and maybe 7 feet high, and i landed it fine. and thats nothing compaired to the kind of jumps that it would have to deal with during a race.

has anyone tried kyosho shocks? i heard the 3.5mm mugen shocks still break

[BuggyBoy]

stormperson:
they make titanium shock shafts
and what weight oil are you running???

[stormperson]

who is they?

and i dont really know since i bought the buggy used and i havent changed the oil yet. however it seems like it would be 40-50 weight. and they are blue springs.

[DLF]

makaluch, thanks for the info on the flywheel. Unfortunatly, it says it will not work with a pilot shaft engine. That's what I have. Plus, I'd be a little afraid to cut the shaft.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

DLF if you want the best setup for a clutch get the regular mugen flywheel w/ aluminum shoes and a 13-14 tooth clutch and make sure you get the black springs not the silver ones thats one of the best setups

Stormperson: i think lunsford does i forgot, thats the reason your breaking parts take em apart and clean em out and put some nice 70 weight or something in it there is probably 30-45 weight depending on what the other guy did with it

[makaluch]

When I had mine I was setup like this:

Front: Stock spring, 35-40wt, 2-hole 1.2 pistons, rebound at 2mm
Rear : Stock spring, 25-30wt, stock 1-hole pistons, no rebound
Diffs: Front 7000 center5000 rear GREASE...
more traction=heavier weights

I changed the stock aluminum sun gears to TT steel ones in all the diffs. My base suspension setup was under the advice of alot of the guys at NationalRC. When you use shock oils that are that thick gravity wins and the shafts bend. Better to bottom and recover nicely. I tried to go a little heavier and the back end just bounced all over on a rougher track. Just my two cents. :)

[DLF]

Buggyboy, the orginal reason I was asking the question on the flywheel was I commented on how narrow the stock flywheel was. I have no problem with my current clutch setup.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

whats wrong with a narrow flywheel?

[makaluch]

Nothing...but some boxes pivot down on the starter wheel with the buggy right down on the deck. So the angle isn't perfect and it eats some wheels...especially the older Ofna boxes. Mine has an upgraded wheel design, and I have to raise the buggy up on pedestals...these types won't have any problems.

[BuggyBoy]

oh ive got the ofna 10250 or whatever havent had a problem w/ it yet

[DLF]

Hey guys. Looking for two things for my XR: titanium hinge pins: Where do I get these at? Stainless steel screws: I doubt anyone makes a set for the Mugen, but I thought I'd ask. I have a local fastener shop here that will order anything. Think I'll give him a list. :D

Thanks for the info guys.

Dana F

[jasonrcfreak]

i believe Lunsford makes Ti pins for the XR

[BuggyBoy]

WHY WOULD YOU WANT STAINLESS STEEL ?!?!! you want your buggy to weigh 800 lbs or something

just go to www.hexscrews.com and buy the premium kit for the XR Works i have 3 of them they are the best you want hex screws to not philips they will stirp to easy

and ace-hobbies.com has all the parts you need for your mugen

[DLF]

Heh...well, for one thing, the thing already weighs 800 pounds. Plus, the difference in weight between a treated steel screw and a stainless screw isn't much. Also, I'm not replacing them because of stripping. I'm replacing them because they rust.

Anyway, I just tried the hexscrews.com you gave. Bad link. What kind of screws are in the premium kit?

Dana F

[jasonrcfreak]

hey Dana

It's www.hexcrews.com
:D

[BuggyBoy]

oh wups its www.hexcrews.com hehe the premium kit just replaces ALL the screws the regular kit replaces most of them
i just went w/ premium tho its worth it i like em

[baileym]

As for the steering slop question, check the ball ends. I noticed that all the ball-ends on mine started to develop slop after a bit. Other than that, check the screws in the steering rack. A little bit of slop in the steering is normal, and won't be noticable on the track.

As for BuggyBoy's motor & pipe choice, that is not a high-end motor. The C4 is a high-end motor, and the WS7 and S7 Europa are both bottom end motors. That pipe actually works the best with that motor on all but the highest grip tracks. On low grip tracks, the 063 pipe and either S7 will just cause the tires to spin. I suggest you stick with that pipe and make any adjustments that you need to make with the clutch. You can make a motor feel like it has more torque by using different clutch springs.

[BuggyBoy]

yeah im running the alu shoes w/ the black springs
hopefully itll work good. still freezing cold outside didnt run it with the new stuff yet :/
i think a 13tooth or 14 tooth i forgot

[baileym]

Your set-up will work fine. I would suggest that you start with a 14 tooth. Like I said, you are already going to be fighting lots of torque with that motor.

[BuggyBoy]

yeah i just checked thats whats on there !!! heh
the C4s are to powerfull i think a guy around here had one and let me try it hes got same buggy as much just w/o the hopups i got. its just to powerfull but his was also tuned on a dyno. And them you will be replacing clutch bearings every race so i said ah what the heck mise well go for the WS7 its a great engine :) C4s are just simply to powerfull and would be expensive to run.

[DLF]

What improvments in performance would be seen with the alum clutch shoes? In fact, what improvement between the white and black shoes?

Another question while I'm thinking of it. Am I to assume that the high volume shocks do not come with the XR? Are you guys finding these shocks work well when running on a track with high jumps?

Dana F

[baileym]

DLF,

The biggest improvement with the alu. clutch shoes is wear. They won't make the car any faster. The white shoes have more grip than the black shoes, and they don't slip at all. They wear incredibly fast though. I have about 25 tanks of gas on the aluminum shoes, and they still aren't showing much wear if any at all.

The bigger shocks are more durable, and they will stay more consistent over a long main. The oil will not heat up as quickly as with the smaller shocks. As for the high jump thing, you will not really notice a difference except that they will no longer break after a bad landing.

[DLF]

And these shocks do not come in the XR kit?

Dana F

[baileym]

They are not currently included in any kit.

[BuggyBoy]

DLF no the rears are $60 and fronts are $50 at most places then the springs i dont know what they run. ther is diff kinds.

btw i added you to icq name is Jason on there..
nitro house has mugen hopups btw. http://www.nitrohouse.com/options,_mbx-4xr.htm the large volume shocks and the springs

[BuggyBoy]

i was a lil off on the shock price but owell :) hehe about $50 for both sets

[nitro lover]

I thought I may be able to get an educated answer from someone in this post. You guys seem to really Know your stuff. Will parts from a Mugen MBX fit an OFNA MBX? There suspension and other parts look very similar. There seems to be a lot of hop ups for the Mugen. Thanks in advance!

[BuggyBoy]

Nitro Lover: no they are 2 tottaly different cars the ofna mbx (pile of garbage) is nothing like the Mugen just because they are both MBX doesnt mean anything heh. they are actually really really different i started out with a ofna mbx just cause it was the cheapest one then sold it about 1 month after i bought it and bought my mugen.

that Ofna could Barley handle my WS7 i dont think they are really all that good of cars

[nitro lover]

Ouch! Thanks for the input though. Maybe when I am rich and famous I will be able to afford a Mugen. Or maybe after my wife is pregnant and we have a house she will let me spend some money. Maybe not having experience with "good buggies" will allow me to find mine to be just fine for me.

[BuggyBoy]

you dont need to be that rich to run one i only got like $2000-$2500 stuck into mine :/ bu thats with $500 of electronics hehe and all around new bearings and hexscrew kits and motor and few hopups

[Shawn_S]

Originally posted by BuggyBoy
you dont need to be that rich to run one i only got like $2000-$2500 stuck into mine :/ bu thats with $500 of electronics hehe and all around new bearings and hexscrew kits and motor and few hopups

yea, take me for example, I'm 16 w/o a job and I have a collection of r/cs that total like 3500:/

[BuggyBoy]

im 17 without a job and have well over $10,000 in toys lol just 1 rc car tho mom made me sell all my other ones cause i never used em. i had 6 extras just sitting around doing nothing lol.

ill be 18 in may !! thats when ill have a job finaly

[nitro lover]

Man, I don't know what part of Wisconsin you are from but there must be money trees near by. Or are they called parents? What ever the case, I don't need to stick that much money into my first buggy. I just had a simple question which should have had a simple answer. I have talked to someone who has used Mugen parts on there Ofna, and they worked quite well. Maybe they do have a little more in common than MBX "HEH".

[jasonrcfreak]

I think it all depends on what your purpose is. If you're just bashing and messin round, the OFNA might be ok. But if you have serious race intentions, you might have a little trouble with it. I had an OFNA Ultra GTLX and made the mistake of trying to race it. NOT a good idea. Of course, the MBX is a step up from it. If you intend on racing, your initial investment may be higher, but it could pay off in the long haul. :D

[BuggyBoy]

well im pretty sure some parts do fit others but its not like they are made for it. just needs some modifying

and also servo trays and radio boxes aernt concidered using other parts :)

[nitro lover]

Thanks jasonrcfreak. I am sure you are right. I know you get what you pay for, and I didn't pay much for my buggy. Maybe I will find it inadequate if I do race it. Buggyboy, one more question and I will go to the right post for ofna questions. You said it could barely handle your WS7. Were you breaking parts because of the power or did the thing just not handle well with a lot of power?

[BuggyBoy]

it couldnt handle for crap i even played around w/ diff oils so much it just didnt handle like the mugen at all at high speeds especialy it couldnt do anything.

i played around with it alot even tried 3 different pipes and still just wasnt rite i dont know just something about it heh
the Mugens are alot more durable to them ofnas you take em off one jump and you break something. i even cracked my rear right lower suspension arm once just by hitting a rock going around a corner in some dirt.. i thought that was really cheap

[Shawn_S]

Originally posted by nitro lover
Man, I don't know what part of Wisconsin you are from but there must be money trees near by.

lololololol

[BuggyBoy]

lol most people here probably wish money grew on trees tho

id say about 3/4 of the people int his town cant afford to feed there own kids more then grille cheese or something..

[Shawn_S]

I guess I live in a world of exotica here. At every stop light (the new LED type) there are 6 or 7 benzs (mostly S-Classes), 4 or 5 Porsches, some other pristine makes, and the rest of the regular ppls' cars (btw my dad drives a pos escort, so don't think I looking down on neone). But if you go to the beach/shopping/dining area, there are Bentleys, Vipers, Ferrairs, etc. I just go there on a Fri night, (going there after typing this, hehe) and chill with some friends and ask for rides. I think the best car I got a ride in was a new-at-the-time 99 Diablo Roadster :D

[nitro lover]

Dude thats nothing, I just got home from driving my 2000 Dodge Intrepid ES. I noticed no one asked me for a ride. Is it me or my car? Oh well. You have probable seen your fare share of awesome, mega powered offshore boats down there in Florida also. I am filled with envy!

[BuggyBoy]

hey nitro whats so big about a 2000 intrepid ES?
its a chrysler product?
what more can i say

lol
and btw: my dads friends got the fastest boat in wisconsin (a non race boat) just a speedboat its a 34' w/ 3 motors w/ huge ass blowers each one is over 800 hp i think forgot the exact hp of each motor.

[Shawn_S]

Originally posted by BuggyBoy
hey nitro whats so big about a 2000 intrepid ES?
its a chrysler product?
what more can i say


I think there was a bit of sarcarmism in there.....

That's a tight boat though, but there are the offshore race boats here, and I heard 1800 each for twin enigne 40' cat.

[nitro lover]

Way to read between the lines Shawn_S. As I said earlier, I am full of envy! Maybe some day when you hear about a 46' Cigarette Rough Rider with twin 1500 Torque V 12's, it will be me. Buggyboy, you shouldn't pound your chest at everything someone posts, it just sets you up to get beat by someone with bigger and better!

[DLF]

Hey guys. I've noticed that after just a few runs on the track, the end in the clutch seems to have "cooked" all the grease out of the bearings. I know that with any nitro car the clutch bearings are something that you'll replace often, but this seems a bit premature to me. Have any of you guys found an aftermarket bearing that would maybe be more durable for this application? Thanks.

Dana F

[DLF]

Opps...error:

"...the HEAT in the clutch..."

Don't know why I typed "end". :D

Dana F

[Shawn_S]

dlf, what do the stocker bearings look like? Also are you running the alum clutch? They could cause excessive heat:confused:

I have ones with a green seals, I think are only bearings w/green seals are Boca Bearings and I put them put a hard time, rarely lube them, run the engine hot and run 'em though sand/dirt, and I haven't replaced them yet. Also I got the buggy used and they where the bearings that were on there!

[baileym]

I run the bulk bearings that you can buy from Tower Hobbies. I have had good success running these, plus they are cheap so you can replace them and not go broke doing it.

[DLF]

Thanks for the info baileym.

I have another question. Someone told me that to prevent damage to the diffs, I should double shim the gears inside the diff. This info came from Mugen. Apparently the mesh is set too loose and the team drivers found that this practice prevented the damage. However, I forgot if he was talking about double shimming the 2 outer gears or the 4 inner gears. I think it was the outer gears. Does anyone know which it is?

Dana F

[makaluch]

I would think shimming the two (or one of them) large gears would be better. Either way would decrease gear lash, but if you shim one you have to shim all...4 planetary gears. Where with the larger ones you can shim one or both.

I also went to steel gears instead of the Mugen aluminum. Less wear and contamination. Thunder Tiger gears work great ! You just have to use flat washers and remove the 0-rings on the outside of the planetary gears shaft. Call NationalRC and ask about it.

[DLF]

Ok...that's kinda what I figured. I'll also look into the gears you are talking about. You don't by chance have part number for the gears do you?

Also, I'm running 1000, 3000 and 7000 diff oil...which is stock. It seems like I recall that everyone went up on the weight of everything. Is there some reason why? I mean, I know that this is a tuning and driver thing, but is there a real difference? What kind of handling change would I expect? Thanks.

Dana F

[DLF]

Oh, and one other thing. Since the diffs do leak, has anyone considered or tried applying a very thin coat of RTV on the diff to help seal it? Or do the diffs leak more past the o-rings than the gasket?

Dana F

[jasonrcfreak]

Anyone out there running the big bore shocks?? I'm considering them and I was wondering if they make a difference??
Thanks
Jason

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by jasonrcfreak
Anyone out there running the big bore shocks?? I'm considering them and I was wondering if they make a difference??
Thanks
Jason

Yep. Handling is improved slightly, but the big difference is over washboards and jumps.

[jasonrcfreak]

Sounds good. Me thinks it might be a wise investment, esp. the way I drive!!! :D I really want to spruce it up with some nice eye candy, guess I need to concentrate on upgrades that actually improve performance! :) Big bore shocks and front cvd's are prolly next.

[makaluch]

No part numbers. I picked them up when I bought the buggy at NationalRC. I live close and was talking with Mike and Brian about the best upgrades..

I ran 3000front/5000center/ grease rear. When our track was wet, right after a rain, 3000f/7000c/grease worked better.

In a nutshell-the heavier the oil the less differentiation. Meaning when you up the weight you make it more like posi -traction...tougher to turn. When there's good traction you can up the weights or use Torsens. You can also tune for the turns (open sweepers/tight switchbacks) with the diff oils. Tight tracks require lighter oils.

Those are general statements. All buggies have inherent traits that may be exceptions to some rules. The XR's, for instance, have underdriven rear gears. So to balance the steering and straight line traits alot of top drivers use the lightest possible weight...aka grease(waterproof bearing or silicone grease at an automotive store).

[baileym]

Just so you know, the new Mugen XR kits no longer have the underdriven gears. They got rid of this because it was too hard on the middle diff and the universals. The kits now come with the same front and rear. I believe it is the 38 tooth.

[DLF]

Thanks for the reply, makaluch. In that case, I think I'll leave my diffs the way they are. Our track has fairly tight corners. However, when dry it has almost no traction yet throw a little water on it and you'll be doing traction rolls. I can't complain too much about the handling of the Mugen on our track. It does push some (my Mugen did not come with the overdrive front pully), however, removing the front sway bar seems to have helped some.

I'm thinking that putting higher weight oil in my diffs would make my push worse. So, for now, I think I'll leave it stock. That sound right to you guys?

BTW, this past weekend was my first run with the Mugen during a race. Only had it a few months now. Just a case of learning a new car and tuning it to the track. I'm still learning the Mugen. :D

Dana F

[DaniandD]

I am having a problem with the brake linkage. When I press down on the throttle, the brake arms are being gently pushed forward which is causing the brake to be applied.

Any ideas?

[jasonrcfreak]

Hello gang!!

Well, It's freakin snowing like crazy here!! :(:( I'm ready for racing season!! I did a little shopping for my RR yesterday :D Here's what I've put on it so far:
Mugen Big Bore Shocks
Mugen CVD's out back
Nuova Faor graphite servo tray(gotta have a little eye candy:D)
Pro-Line Crimefighters on Mugen dish wheels
GS Racing Springs
Pro-Line Crowd Pleezer body(in the process of being painted by my expert painter in Tulsa)
Mugen purple aluminum servo tray posts
I'll get some pics up when I get the body back :D
Jason

[jasonrcfreak]

Hey!! has anyone tried the aluminum clutch shoes?? If so, how are they?? What are the avdvantages/disadvantages of aluminum compared to the black shoes??
Thanks:D
Jason

[nitrothugg]

what is the differences between the RR and XR ? i'm like really close to making my decision on a 1/8th buggy. i will probally race a little through out the spring and summer, nothing to serious, however, i still want the baddest ride on the block. lol

[rip93]

Fixed the prob

[jasonrcfreak]

Thugg,

well, if money is no object, go with the XR. I believe the engine is set back further in the XR to help the handling. The XR comes with a 2 piece center diff mount which allows eaier access to the diff for maintenance. I know there are some other differences that I don't know about. I've got the RR, but I've made quite a few upgrades to it like the new Big Bore shocks.

Like I said, if you got the $$$, get the XR, it's worth the extra $100 or so.
Or, if you really wanna shell out some cash, get the Kyosho Inferno 7.5 Kanai edition!!

[DLF]

This is probably a stupid question, but has anyone ever had a plastic gear servo last in there Mugen? I had to send me metal gear hi-torque one off for service. I thought I had another I could use this coming weekend but it turns out is a high speed servo with plastic gears. I'd hate to ruin it. If it won't last, I'd rather throw a standard servo in it.

Thanks.
Dana F

[rip93]

I think it would hold up as a throttle, but I would be worried if it was on steering.

[Shawn_S]

dlf, what you could do is loosen up the servo saver.....

[DLF]

Thanks guys. Actually, I've been able to borrow a steel gear hi torque servo from a friend until I get mine back. Thanks for the input though guys.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

how do you guys have your servos mounted? i cant find any nuts/bolts long/skinny enough to mount mine w/ in this dang town

[baileym]

The aluminum clutch shoes from Mugen are really good. The offer great wear characteristics, and good grip. They really don't have any bad side. The only bad thing that I have found is that you need to make sure that the inside of the clutch bell is clean. I usually take the clutch bell off about every half gallon and lightly sand the inside, to get rid of any crud and to roughen it up a little to ensure that it has good grip. The aluminum clutch shoes work well with the 1.0 mm Mugen springs, or .09 springs. The 1.1 mm springs seem to be a little to hard and allow the motor to spin too high on acceleration.

[baileym]

I use the standard screws to mount the servos. They work just fine on my Mugen.

[baileym]

Originally posted by DLF

I'm thinking that putting higher weight oil in my diffs would make my push worse. So, for now, I think I'll leave it stock. That sound right to you guys?
Dana F

Higher weight oil in the rear will cause you to get rid of push. Higher weight in the front will cause more. Which ever end of the car you need more grip on, you should use lighter oil. If the car pushes, then use lighter up front. If the car spins out a lot, then use lighter in the rear. Ligher weight oil has the disadvantage of causing you to loose some acceleration. I run 10,000 in the middle, 5,000 up front and 1,000 in the rear.

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by jasonrcfreak
Hey!! has anyone tried the aluminum clutch shoes?? If so, how are they?? What are the avdvantages/disadvantages of aluminum compared to the black shoes??
Thanks:D
Jason

Much less wear than the stock white or Mugen black shoes. They almost act as a slipper in some situations. However, you must inspect them every so often because as they wear, a slight ridge of metal can form on the very outer edge. This can touch the 'step' of the flywheel and cause your clutch to hang up (not fully disengage).

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by DLF
Hey guys. I've noticed that after just a few runs on the track, the end in the clutch seems to have "cooked" all the grease out of the bearings. I know that with any nitro car the clutch bearings are something that you'll replace often, but this seems a bit premature to me. Have any of you guys found an aftermarket bearing that would maybe be more durable for this application?


Welcome to the club! My XR has eaten 2 clutchbell bearings in the last gallon of fuel.

[StevePond]

I hope you guys don't mind my changing the title of the thread to include the RR buggy as well. They're so closely related I figured it would make sense to include them as well.

[BuggyBoy]

Originally posted by ragamuffin


Welcome to the club! My XR has eaten 2 clutchbell bearings in the last gallon of fuel.


most guys that Run C4s and motors that are to powerfull for buggys go through bearings every race. them big motors just tear up the buggys. i like the WS7 personaly.

[BuggyBoy]

My Buggy so far.
it has all around MIP CVD kits. G1 Industries supports.

the only problem i have so far is that the body dont fit down w/o the dang air filter crammed tight lol. trying to think of what to do

http://www.1337info.com/images/Jason/mugen.jpg



does anybody have the big bore shocks? i need somebody to measure the outer diamater of them. i built my buggy and forgot if i ordered the big bore shocks or the normal ones rofl.

[jasonrcfreak]

Thanks Steve!! RR owners are people too!!! :D
Buggyboy- I just got the big bores for my RR. I haven't had a chance to race with 'em yet. They are beefy! The stock Mugen springs are too small for them.

I'm a little P.O.'d!!! I bought a new Crowd Pleezer body for my RR. A friend of mine painted and trimmed it for me. The engine in the XR is mounted further back than the RR, sooooooo....... the hole that is marked on the body for the cooling head cut-out is for the XR and doesn't line up on the RR. Now I gotta trim some more Lexan off to make it work. :(:( And I'm gonna have this funky open space in the body!! :(:( gggrrrrrrr!!

[BuggyBoy]

hmm your engine will be cooler i guess :) lol

[jasonrcfreak]

Well, maybe so!! LOL!! I'm running a WS7, just like you. :D

[BuggyBoy]

have you had a chance to run it yet?

i havent. im still trying to find out if these are the big or small bore shocks the outer diam of the rear shock is 14mm.. so i dunno lol

[jasonrcfreak]

Are they the shocks that came with the kit?? if so, they are probably the reg. bore shocks as I don't think Mugen has put any of the big bore shocks in the kits. I'll try to get a diameter measurement for you when I get home.

I just slapped a new rod, piston, and sleeve into the WS7. Now I have to go through the pain of another break in! fun fun fun

[BuggyBoy]

no i bought it from a guy. i dont know if he put them on there tho. he bought the car Raced it one weekend (he races elec sedans) and he didnt like it so i bought it off him. and put my motor and some hopups on it.
he bought all around MIP CVD kits on it. and then i put the G1 industries and all that on it. and all blue seal racing bearings etc.

so i dont know if its the big bore shocks or the regular ones

[jasonrcfreak]

okie dokie...........well, i'll try to check the diameter as best I can when I get home. I don't know where the heck my calipers are! :D

I traded into my RR and have put a buttload of stuff on it..........big bore shocks...CVD's....etc etc. All in the name of performance!!!...........and a little eye candy! ;)

[BuggyBoy]

lol you wouldnt believe how cheap i got it :)
$340 :) and he paid $550 for the car kit. and then $48 for each MIP CVD kit which there is 3. im suprised he sold it to me that cheap tho. thats realllllyyy cheap.

im still looking for hopups to get for it i dont know what else to get.

ive got so far Carbon Fiber servo deck purple aluminum radio mounts. the purple alu hubs. G1 industries upper suspension mount. and front and back supports. and then the team blue seal bearings.

im thinking of getting some hardcore racing titanium parts but not sure yet. id like to find a different chassis tho

[jasonrcfreak]

I got the aluminum posts too!! :D and the graphite servo tray!! LOL!! National RC is selling out all their Nuova Faor stuff and they had the servo trays on sell for like $18, so I order one. I get them and there two of them in the package!! woohooo!! 2 for 1! I like that! :D I also got the big bores from National. Those guys are topnotch and very patient with me, cuz I got a bizillion questions to ask when I call them. :D I don't have the 2 piece center diff mount, so that will prolly be my next move. Makes maintenance a whole lot easier. They got the Nuova Faor mount for like $49, reg price is around $75 or so. If you got the XR, you've already got a 2-piece.

What about Lunsford turnbuckles?? Got Lunsford?? :D
I was contemplating the Hardcore stuff myself but decided to wait until I screwed up a stock one to replace it.
How bout a Fioroni chasis???

[BuggyBoy]

yeah i got all lunsford i dont know which fioroni chassis fits all the regular XR suff heh.

[jasonrcfreak]

Ask, and Yee shall receive! :D

http://www.generalsilicones.com/mugenoptparts.html

[BuggyBoy]

yeah i know i got that page in my favs lol.

[jasonrcfreak]

I'm sure you spend many long, lonely hours just staring at it!!! LOL!!! ;)

[BuggyBoy]

yeah i wana get the XR one but im wondering if the hard and light ones are nice to.

[BuggyBoy]

Just ordered some Progressive Suspension Res's for my shocks.

think i should still get the bigger shocks?

also got the fioroni chassis

[jasonrcfreak]

Progressive piggy-backs!! oink-oink!! :D
Where did you order the Fioroni chasis from??
Before you order the big bore shocks, you might wanna make sure the Piggy-backs will fit them as the big bores are larger in diameter. :)

Which chasis did you get?

[BuggyBoy]

i just got the MBX XR light chassis from nationalrc.com it was the only one i could find anywhere.

yeah i know i found out they dont fit on the shocks so i guess ill stick w/ the regular ones.

im thinking of drilling another hole into my shock pistons tho they only have 1


Description: Mugen MBX-4XR Ergal Lightened Chassis - Hard Anodized
Price (each): $84.99
Item Total: $84.99
Description: Purple 1/8 Reservoir Kit - Set of 4
Price (each): $104.99
Item Total: $104.99

[jasonrcfreak]

Those guys at National are good to deal with. That's where I got my shocks. Crazy Bill and the gang! :D

[BuggyBoy]

i need to get some different springs.
any suggestions?

[DLF]

What air filter are you guys running? I'm currently using the OS super filter which I think is an excellent filter. However, I'm tired of it rubbing the inside of the body. What about the motor saver filters? I use one on my GT. The one for the .21 engines look a little whimpy though.

Dana F

[baileym]

DLF,

I use the stock Mugen filters. It works really well. I coat it in Bel-Ray motorcycle filter oil. I have never had a single grain of dirt end up in one of my motors.

BuggyBoy,

If you are running the regular shocks, then just use Kyosho springs. They fit great on Mugen shocks. On a bumpy track, I will use Kyosho whites, and on really smooth track, Kyosho blue.

[DLF]

Thanks for the reply, baileym. I don't doubt the ability of the filter to do it's job, I'm just looking for one that is the least pain. The motor saver is small and easy to clean. It's size is sort of the reason I'm not sure about it. I guess if they make one for a .21, they must have tested it. :)

Dana F

[DLF]

I have another question also. What all is needed to convert to the large bore shocks? Do the kit's come with everything? Thanks

Dana F

[jasonrcfreak]

Dana-
the kit comes with pretty much everything you're gonna need.....
...except new springs! The stock springs will not work as they are too small in diameter. You'll have to get the new springs that Mugen has out. They have 3 sets out: blue, gray, and white. Blue is the stiffest, white the lightest, and gray in the middle.
here's the poop on the springs:

Part# C0592- Front Blue springs-15.5 rate
C0593-front gray springs-15 rate
C0594-front white springs-14.5 rate
C0595-rear blue springs-18.8 rate
C0596-rear gray springs-18 rate
C0597-rear white springs-17.5 rate
Or, Kyosho springs might work but I'm not positive.
I bought a used RB WS7 a couple of months ago. Did a rebuild a couple of days ago and broke it in today. All I can say is.......Holy #$%^!!! that thing is quick!!!:D

PS- who wants to put kyosho on a perfectly Mugen buggy!! :D

[DLF]

Thanks, jasonrcfreak. So basically I need the front shock kit, rear shock kit and the springs. Sounds good. Thanks again.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

I run the RB concepts air filter. its probably one of the best there is. but its huge im having a hard time fitting it under my body !!!

[BuggyBoy]

wake up mugen guys !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[somedude2187]

Hey I don't know if this question has already been answered, but can someone tell me the difference between the rr and xr? Or point me in the direction of where I can find this info? Thanks.

[DLF]

The main difference is the XR has the engine mounted further near the rear of the car than the RR. The XR also has CVD's, 2 Piece center diff mount, pretty purple aluminum...and a bunch of other things I can't think of. There is quite a difference though.

Check out http://www.mugenracing.com/
Read the descriptions of the two and you'll see the differences.

Dana F

[DLF]

Ok. I've got a question for anyone racing a newer XR kit without the overdrive front diff. I'm experincing a pretty pronounced off-throttle push. All the 4wd's i've owend in the past (Schumacher, Optima mid, etc), had overdrive front diffs, so this is a little new to me.

Anyone have some ideas that you've found to have helped with this push? Thanks.

Dana F

[jasonrcfreak]

If you can afford it..........Get the XR. I'm wondering if they are gonna start including the big bore shocks with the XR kits?? That would be nice. I've got an RR that I've upgraded out the wazoo, 'cept for the 2-piece center diff mount. It's next on the list. :D Anything that will make maintenance easier is alright by me! :D

Dana-Have you tried playing around with different combos of diff oil???? heckifino! :D How's your steering servo?

[BuggyBoy]

i you do upgrade everything go w/ all fioronio. its even cheaper then the stock stuff.

[jasonrcfreak]

BuggyBoy just has too much $$$ burnin' a hole in his pocket!! :D:D:D

[baileym]

DLF,

There are a couple of options for eliminating push. One try 3000 oil in the front diff if you are at 5000. Try a little lighter oil in the front shocks, less positive toe-in between 0 and 1 degree, or move both of the camber clips to the front side of the upper front arm.

[DaniandD]

I am having a problem with the brake linkage. When I press down on the throttle, the brake arms are being gently pushed forward which is causing the brake to be applied.

Any ideas?


Last edited by DaniandD on 03-28-2002 at 12:26 AM

[DLF]

I bent a little offset in the linkage to aline them with the arms. This helps to keep the linkage from dragging the arms.

Dana F

[DaniandD]

Dana,

Not too sure what you mean. Can you explain a little more? I was thinking about a attaching rubber band beteen the linkage and the post since, it is only drag which is catching it.

Thanks,

- Ron

[DLF]

In my case, the two wire arms coming off the servo are not in line with the brake arms. The bottom wire is being pulled down to the brake arm while the upper one is being pulled up. This was causing the wires to drag on the arms. I bent a slight joggle in the wire arms to help relieve this. Basically so the wire arms would be more inline with the holes in the brake arms.

Heh, not sure if that was in better of an explanation but I'm sure I'm not the first person that's done it. Maybe someone has a picture? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Dana F

[kazuya]

Dude all ihave to say is MUGEN K##KS A## i love em im so happy to have one again.I used to an mbx4 all tricked out and then i tried out the hyper 7,its a good buggy and everything but i can drive my mugen so much more aggressive it turns way better.Well i thought id just throw my two cents in.

[DLF]

I was wondering if anyone had done anything about the front upper hinge pin going into the shock tower. I love my Mugen, but that seems to me to be a bad design. Metal on metal is not a good thing. My Mugen has not even had a tank run thru it and there's slop where the pin goes thru the tower. I was thinking of cutting the hole larger in the tower a putting a plastic bushing in it that could be replaced. Any thoughts on this?

Dana F

[geneh]

I have a Super Athlete. Will the body from the newer Mugens fit it? If not, Where can I get one?

[BuggyBoy]

not sure Geneh never had a athlete !!

[gbfireman]

Hey DLF, what you can do to minimize wear on your front shock tower is to drill a small hole in the plastic hinge pin brace, then tap in a set screw. This will keep the hinge pine from rotating around and rounding out the holes in your towers.

[BuggyBoy]

What spare parts to bring to race track???

i need a shopping list !! lol.
so far ive only got shock shafts

[King]

I'm getting a xr in about 4 days and I can't wait. It will be my first 1/8 buggy but I don't know of any place to race it in Nebraska. All i have to put in it is a engine and reciver. I'm going to put in a OS RZV99B. I'm getting it from doughboyeric's friend. I got the engines from doughboy eric. I'm so pumped!!!:D :D :D :D :D :D

[BuggyBoy]

oh no another to fall into the OS trap !!!!!!!!!
hehe

[Wild Mister T]

I have this crazy projet, I want to fit a 2 speed tranny on my XR :eek: .
I will be driving on-road using the 2 speed, then remove it when driving off-road (to be ROAR compliant).

Ofna makes a 2 speed kit for the Monster Pirate, that may be good, I have searched for other kits. I don't know if any of the kits can fit, or can we make them fit with some work ?

The kit should be able to handle .21 power...

Ofna 2-Speed Tranny
Price $99.99
PartNumber Ultra35011
Ultra / Worlds / Blazer
http://www.ace-hobbies.com/Images/Ofna/Upgrades/Hodr_Series/35001.gif


Ofna 2-Speed Monster Pirate
Spur Gear Assembly, 52/56 Tooth
11/15 Tooth Clutchbell Gear
http://www.gpmd.com/images/ofnc1899.JPG


HPI 2-Speed Transmission Nitro RS4 MT
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTB56&P=C
http://www.gpmd.com/images/hpic7912.JPG


DuraTrax 2-Speed Transmission 2WD Maximum
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVU70&P=C
http://www.gpmd.com/images/dtxc9610.JPG


Kyosho 2-Speed Transmission Assembly GP20
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXV555&P=7
http://www.gpmd.com/images/kyoc6172.JPG


Kyosho MoonEyes QRC 2-Speed Transmission
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXV545&P=7
http://www.gpmd.com/images/kyoc6160.JPG


Kyosho 2-Speed Tranny SGP10
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXV836&P=7
http://www.gpmd.com/images/kyoc6565.JPG


Associated Two-Speed Assembly NTC3
http://www.gpmd.com/images/ascc2285.JPG


Anyone installed a 2 speed tranny in their Mugen (RR or XR) :eek: ?

Thanks

[BuggyBoy]

Wild Mister if you get the right motor Xrs do run 60 mph+
2 speed they will hit like 70-80 probably.

i wouldnt get the HPI ones or the Ofna ones.
if i were you id email Mugen and ask them for there advice..

i think the GP20 would be the only one that i would trust.
its made for what your using it for...

[Wild Mister T]

Thanks BuggyBoy, I just sent them an email.
I have a Picco G1 Pro BV rated at 2.4hp at 30,000
The RCNitro staff tested the engine and ran it at up to 43,000 RPM, I am currently using a 13 tooth clutch bell, I have a 15 tooth on order.... but still, a 2 speed tranny would be scary fast, like you said probably around 70-80mph depending on ratios.
At those speeds I wonder if the tires will hold on... or will I run on disk style tires because they would stretch so much.

[BuggyBoy]

Just run Solid disc rims with some nice slicks you should be fine...

[baileym]

Buggyboy,

For racing, take at the minimum:

Complete set of Arms, upper and lower for the front, and rear lower. Also, take a set of the diff internal gears. Have at least 2 extra 8 X 16 mm bearings, and an extra set of 5 X10 bearings for the clutchbell. MIP drive shaft rebuild kits, are always needed, no matter how much loctite you used. Extra glowplugs, and fuel line are also must haves. Also make sure to have extra screws for everything.

Optional stuff is an extra set of ball ends in case you strip one out, and extra pivot balls for the front. The pivot balls don't break very often, but it does happen. I also take an extra clutchbell, and diff cases.

Some of this stuff may be overkill, but you will feel really dumb having to watch the mains because you didn't have a 10 dollar plastic part. Trust me on this one. LOL

[DLF]

Just wondering. Are you guys running high torque servos for your throttle/brake? I've been told it helps to run one for better braking. Comments?

Dana F

[baileym]

DLF,

I run Hitec 5945's in my car. They have got insane torque. I tried a weaker servo on the brakes at first, and it was horrible. I felt like I had no brakes. I would suggest atleast 100 ozs. of torque for braking. A lot of guys will tell you that you only need high torque for the steering, but that is simply not true.

The advantage on the track to a high torque servo is that you can stay on the gas longer, since your car won't need as much room to stop. I was able to trim about half a second from my lap times just by adding a stronger brake servo. I can now brake in the last 10-15 feet before a turn, instead of the last 20-25 feet before a turn.

In summary, it makes a huge difference.

[DLF]

Thanks, baileym. I dropped one in last night. :D

Next question. At first I had the brakes set for more braking in the rear. I decided to change to more in front. Since I'm having some push, I figured that that would allow me to sling the car in the corners. It turned out to have the opposite effect. When/if the front tires locked up, it had no steering. I ended up putting it back to more brake in the rear. The thing is, I'm not sure I like that either. How are your cars set up and why? Why do you find it better to have it set that way? Thanks.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

I run the 5945 for steering and the 5925 for throttle. dont need over 120 oz for the brake and its got a quick throttle response.

[King]

What is wrong with running a OS rzv99b Buggyboy?:)

[DLF]

There's nothing wrong with that engine, King. Some people have an unidentifiable/unexplainable problem with OS engines.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

Nothing really im not a big fan of OS but then again ive never ran one that was just broken in. i ran a os 99vb that had like 1-2 gallons of fuel through it. it was in a ofna 9.5 (friends buggy) just didnt think it had to much power.

[BuggyBoy]

Nothing really im not a big fan of OS but then again ive never ran one that was just broken in. i ran a os 99vb that had like 1-2 gallons of fuel through it. it was in a ofna 9.5 (friends buggy) just didnt think it had to much power.

i guess if i ran one that was broken in well id like it more

[King]

I'd like to get a rbs7 but i blew my cash on a race ready xr. All I have to do is put in this os and a rx to get it going. A jp black would be even better but they cost too much!!:D :D

[BuggyBoy]

Where can you buy JP blacks?

[King]

You can get them from www.BrucknerHobbies.com. They carry JP Black engines. I know doughboyeric got his from there I think or it was ace hardware-hobbies. What nitro % do you guy's run and what glow plug. I got some 30% trinity monster horsepower yesterday.

[BuggyBoy]

i run 20% odonell race fuel
ive got #6 glowplugs but i dunno if they are the right temp... heh
this is only my second year on .21s still learning !!

[King]

Don't feel left out this is my first 1/8 buggy. I think I got the best 1/8 buggy I could get. I don't like ofna and I can't stand kyosho.

[BuggyBoy]

Yeah i was talking to a guy i met last night in the chat then on AIM. he said hes got a 7.5 with solid fioroni parts and a mugen XR with a few hopups and he likes the mugen more. heh

[DLF]

Really? Hmmm...I guess I just assumed that the Kyosho car was a better car. But no one buys it because of it's price.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

yeah i know heh. i was suprised when he said that to !!

[speedydave]

I know who you're talking about, and I've talked to him about the two buggies too. He said that he loves both buggies, but the XR steers better. However, he said that the Kyosho can jump slightly better, but the difference is barely noticable. He does like the XR more then the Kyosho, but he loves both buggies.

[BuggyBoy]

his name is like SteveB or something in the chat i forgot heh Steve something tho !!

[baileym]

DLF,

Using more front brake will allow you to slam on the brakes and the car will track straight. If you use lots of rear brake, then the car will fishtail a lot on slick tracks. I always prefer to have more front brake. In theory, you should not be using the brakes very much in the corners. You should be braking before the corner to get your speed down, and letting it coast for the first half of the corner, and then getting back on the gas as you leave the corner. This is in theory the fastest way to get around the track. If you are braking in the corner, and letting the rear swing out, then you are losing a lot of corner speed, and the ability to start accelerating sooner.

I have watched some of the very best drivers in the world drive, and every single one of them would brake before the corner using front brake bias, and then get back on the gas in the middle of the corner, and accelerate through the end of the corner on to the next straight. This was always the fastest way through tight corners. On sweepers, or gradual corners, you shouldn't be using the brakes, except to avoid traffic.

[King]

Well my xr should be here some time today. I don't even know what to do when it get's here. I'm so excited I can't stand it. I was told it has the big bore shocks and it's loaded with all the hop up's. How hard is it to put a fly wheel on a standerd shaft as apposed to the p shaft, because I have a p4 with the standerd shaft and a os with a p shaft.:D

[BuggyBoy]

they are both easy. just different nuts

[duramaxx]

does Any one know if I can put a pull start engine in a Mugen MBX 4 RR or Xr

[BuggyBoy]

why would you wana do that? shoulda just boughten a ofna mbx R2 if you dont plan on racing heh :)
if your using a pullstarter and your gonna be racing thats not a really good idea....

best is to just stay away from a pullstarter but yes you can run pullstarters on anything.

[duramaxx]

No buggy boy I am not going to racing any time soon. I just want a tough and fast buggy and I have ben told that the Mugen MBX 4 Xr is really good.

[BuggyBoy]

Why spend $500 on a buggy when your not gonna race? if i were you id just get a ofna MBX or something. pretty much all buggys are the same speed within 5-10 mph. so its not like the Xr is 20 mph faster then a cheap $200 buggy or something.

[duramaxx]

so buggy boy What would you say is the most durable buggy you know or is it the Ofna R2. What I am loking for is a super durable buggy

[hardcoretmaxx]

well then you might want to get the hyper 7 pro with some cnc steering knuckles

[hardcoretmaxx]

well then you might want to get the hyper 7 pro with some cnc steering knuckles :cool:

[duramaxx]

But the Hyper 7 pro cost as much a the mugen XR

[rcboy618]

actually, if you go shopping around then you can find the hyper 7 pro for less then $500.00. at ace-hobbies they sell the hyper 7 pro for $439.99.

[duramaxx]

bruckner hobbies sell the Xr for 469.99. I Have hear that ofna's buggys break down alot. I you are wondering why I am ask Alot question , it is because I had bad experience with my Nitro MT. the thing always broken down and I was not even run very hard.

[BuggyBoy]

yes the race buggys break down alot i dont really like the hyper 7.
i liked the 9.5 better.

and the Ofna MBx R2 is just a tank :) not really built for a solid racer like the XR and the hyper 7 and stuff. the MBX R2 is just solid heavy and a good basher.

[hardcoretmaxx]

I was thinking of getting a mugen mbx 4xr but my lhs does not carry any mugen parts and I would have to order the parts so I figured that I would just get a hyper 7 pro because I heard that they are a tank with some cnc knuckles that are only $50 and it is so lite

[Wild Mister T]

hardcoretmaxx, so you won't go for a MBX 4XR after over 120 replies on your post on Maxxtraxx board ?

[hardcoretmaxx]

I asked a guy at my lhs and he told me that he carried more parts for the mugen and then I asked the owner and he said that they don't carry parts for it in stock but the two lhs I go to have all the ofna parts in stock and not all the replys was for buggys it was for motors

[BuggyBoy]

I dunno hardcore tmaxx if i were you id get a mbx R2. your comparing a $500 buggy for just bashing to a $180 buggy.
and the $180 buggy is stronger then the hyper 7.
you dont need the torson center diff or any of that youd just be wasting alot of money.

it would probably even be bad for you to get a torson diff for just bashing. ALOT more expensive to repair then a regular diff

[King]

Can I use a standerd servo for throttle and brake. My throttle servo just striped a gear. :mad:

[BuggyBoy]

Yes you can just have fun stopping lol j/p
should be enought ill you get replacement.

always always buy metal gear servos w/ buggys.

[diesel757]

buggy boy,

young, dumb, and full of ....come on man lighten up a little. just because these guys aren't on the race track doesn't mean they should drive only the lamest cars. why do people buy real cars with all this horsepower when the speed limit is like 65 mph? maybe you should only be able to drive cars with under 100 hp unless you are on a race track.

just remember this forum is here for all of us to learn and share ideas and advice, so lets try to be a little more helpful.

[BuggyBoy]

uhh Diesel put it this way.

why should a Grandma Buy a brand new corvette?



the only reason it old him to get the MBX R2 is because its stronger. and because it will take more of a beating then the hyper 7

Diesel you need to read a little more before you talk outa your ass.


and your young dumb and really stupid because you cant even read.


and i am here for giving advice ive been in the sport my whole life.

i dont know what your talking about?? you must always talk like a compelete moron to make yourself look stupid huh?

[rip93]

Originally posted by diesel757
buggy boy,

just because these guys aren't on the race track doesn't mean they should drive only the lamest cars. why do people buy real cars with all this horsepower when the speed limit is like 65 mph? maybe you should only be able to drive cars with under 100 hp unless you are on a race track.




I totally agree with you. You should never cut corners cuz in the long run your going to end up buying a better one. So just buy the best and get it over with.

[BuggyBoy]

I disagree. if he wrecks. hes gonna endup paying twice as much to fix his buggy. and if hes on a budget i dont think he even wants to think about what it costs to repair a buggy.

so thats the reason i said to get ofna mbx R2 its a tank and hard to break.

[DLF]

Where have you guys purchased spare set screws for the XR? I have the premimum kit from hexcrews, but it didn't come with the set screws. The set screw holding the tuned pipe wire has fell out and it's the only size in the kit (4 X 5 MM). I have a regular screw in there, but since Mugen doesn't seem to sell the screw seperate, I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions. Thanks.

Dana F

[stormperson]

buggyboy you seem to be severly mistaken.

mugen makes arguably the highest quality parts and cars out there (the only other 8th scale that even comes close is the 7.5). their parts while higher then American brands (such as losi and AE) are rather fair. and more importantly you can find them through multiple online stores (tower hobbies, horizon hobbies, ace.. nationalrc... etc). ofna on the other hand charges the same if not more for the same part of inferior quality.

the mbx-r2 is a nice basher, but it will not last even 1/2 as long as the mugen XR or any other mugen mbx4 buggy (as well as the previous ones probably but i cannot talk from expearnce so i wont talk about it at all). the parts quality is very poor as well a huge lack of tech support and a constant changing of parts.

you get what you pay for is the bottom line. (and there is a reason why i can buy an 10th electric stadium truck for the same price as a nitro 8th scale buggy)

[diesel757]

buggy boy

it was because of people like you that caused me to leave this hobby many years ago.

why are you in the mugen thread anyways? you should go over to the ofna mbx forum, that you seem to be so fond of, and tell every one there why they should get this car, so you can be the only one with a XR. then you can brag to every one on how you had to pay so much and how hard it was to find replacement parts. because you will be the only one with one.



IM SOFA KING WE TODD DID:D

[diesel757]

does anyone know for certain if the newer xr kits come with the big bore shocks? if so, how can i tell from the packaging?

[Skribble]

why should a Grandma Buy a brand new corvette?
Seen it .. A 50-60 year old lady driving a Brand New '01 Red Corvette. Maybe she wanted to be different.

So just buy the best and get it over with.
Not everyone has $500+ bucks to blow on a Mugen or Kyosho.

[BuggyBoy]

HE ASKED WHAT TO GET FOR BASHING I TOLD HIM !!!
THE OFNA MBX R2 IS FOR BASHING. I TOLD HIM WHAT HE ASKED WHY THE HELL YOU COMPLAINING TO ME???

THE REASON I AM HERE IS BECAUSE I OWN ONE AND I LOVE IT !!!

but why should a person spend $400 more on something that hes just gonna bash around with anyways.
i agree that mugens the top designer of 1/8th buggies. (partically because Kyosho dont even design there own) and i just love mine.
but its EXTREMLY expensive to repair and fix when it breaks twords a MBX R2 that would be probably 1/2 the price to fix. sorry i didnt know he wanted to blow over $1500 on a buggy i thought maybe he wanted to keep it cheap !

dont keep yelling at me about me telling him something. i never did anything wrong or said anything wrong.



And no the newer XR kits dont come with big bore shocks. i dont think they will either. thats a $100 upgrade. but its well worth it.

ive got 2 full sets ordered for mine. probably gonna sell mine w/ res's or keep em for spares.http://www.1337info.com/images/Jason/Mugenalmostdone.jpg

[stormperson]

i dont think a mugen cost twice as much to repair, even for the same part. and in addition, since it is so much more durable they wont break as much.

i will admit that it costs more, however, you can get used one rather cheap, and they will last.

[diesel757]

buggy boy

nice looking ride!!!!
what is that, a RB Worlds S7 or C4

[BuggyBoy]

its a WS7

[rip93]

Originally posted by Skribble

Not everyone has $500+ bucks to blow on a Mugen or Kyosho.

Save up then:D

[BuggyBoy]

yeah no kidding eh

these guys must think we pull $600+ for a radio and servos outa our buts or something hehe. its called managing your $$ and saving your $$ !!!

[DLF]

Anyone, I need a source for big bore rear shocks. NationalRC is out of them and I can't find anyone else who has them. I've tried a dozen companys online so far. Someone give me a hand on this. Thanks.

BTW, I've already tired Nitrohouse and they don't have online ordering. I wanted to try and order it tonight. I'm kind of in a time crunch. If tomorrow morning comes and I don't have one, I guess I'll have to order from them.

Dana F

[King]

Well I hate saying this but my xr is out untill i get a new engine. My rzv99b broke the con rod. I didn't even have it wide open. I'm using 30% trinity monster horse power with a mc9 plug and a rb 63 pipe. I don't know what to get for a new engine and i'm going to start racing it as soon as the track is done. My first choice for a engine is a WS7. But my lhs doesn't carry RB just Picco,OS and Novarossi.
:( :eek:

[BuggyBoy]

lol probably because i accidently ordered 2 and he shipped his last ones to me..

i must clicked add to basket 2 times on accidenty but i only got 1 front. should be getting my order tomarow.

if you want i could probably give you a set of rears..

[jasonrcfreak]

why not just throw a new rod in it?? Cheaper than a new engine.

[BuggyBoy]

Originally posted by King
Well I hate saying this but my xr is out untill i get a new engine. My rzv99b broke the con rod. I didn't even have it wide open. I'm using 30% trinity monster horse power with a mc9 plug and a rb 63 pipe. I don't know what to get for a new engine and i'm going to start racing it as soon as the track is done. My first choice for a engine is a WS7. But my lhs doesn't carry RB just Picco,OS and Novarossi.
:( :eek:

Dude just get the S7 i screwed up by getting the WS7 wast eof a extra $50 :)
they are the same motors one has a coated crankshaft tho and i think the WS7 has a bigger head possibly but dont remember. but just get the regular S7 save yourself $50.

[baileym]

Just buy a new con-rod for your O.S. If you really want a new motor, then get a regular S7. There is almost no difference other than the color. The few minor differences are not worth the extra dough.

[King]

Well I would get a new con rod but I also need a new piston and sleave. The con rod damaged the bottom of the piston when it broke and it also put a big scratch it the sleave and I can't get the pison and sleave to move at all. I have put them in the oven to heat them up but nothing worked. Does any body have any good or bad info on novarossie engines as well as picco and rb?:) :cool:

[jasonrcfreak]

well, I've just heard that Piccos can be kinda finicky to tune sometimes. I bought a used RB WS7 from a guy. He had put a Novarossi carb on it for some reason (I have no Idea why). Anyway, I just put a new piston, rod, and sleeve in it and it hauls booty. :) I would go with either the Nova or the RB. As a matter of fact, RB's are made by Novarossi!!! LOL!! You might go with the RB S7 as there's not much difference between it and the WS7 cept for about 50 bones. The Novarossi's tend to be a little more expensive than the RB's. Both are excellent!

Or, if you wanna stick with an O.S., get yourself a RZ-V01B. They are screamers!!

[BuggyBoy]

Jason,
he changed the carb because the ws7 carb has some little flanges on it so it can take inserts that twirls the air inside the engine which isnt good. most guys either change the carbs or put a 8mm alu insernt in to stop that.

[BuggyBoy]

Well my reare big bore shocks didnt come and now im mad cause thats all i need to drive my friggin car !!

[King]

Man this sucks!! I can't find any hobbyshops around where I live that carry RB,Novarossi,Collari,or Picco. But the good thing is that a race track is in the works for 1/10 nitro/electric and 1/8 nitro. I just wish I had some friends that raced xr's in my area. This is my first 1/8 buggy and I have no idea on how to set it up much less race it. Right now it is sitting in it's bag and needs to be cleaned off and have a engine put in it.:(

[DLF]

Can anyone tell me which big bore shock springs are close to or equal to the stock kit springs?

Also, my thinking is that whatever weight oil I was using with the small bore shocks I should be able to put in the large bore and have about the same damping. Is this a correct statement?

I'd like to set the shocks up as close as possible to the settings of the small bore ones. This will give me something to start with...unless someone disagrees. Just needing some general setup info with the big bore shocks. Thanks.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

lol same w/ me ive been getting tips on a bunch of stuff tho. if you go to www.rc-racing.com and go to the confresne the adoble style or whatver the heck ther eis a Ask the mugen team part and a mugen XR part they give you tips on stuff.


like taking off your orings on the smaller geras in the diffs makes it alot smoother and stuff

[baileym]

For the big bore shocks, the grey springs are about the equivilant of the stock springs. On the oil go about 5 weight higher than what you had in the regular shocks. If you were running 30 then go 35.....

On the NovaRossi/RB issue, Novarossi carbs work well in the RB. However, RB motors are not assembled by NovaRossi. RB buys the parts from NovaRossi, and assembles and tunes them at their shop in France. There are lots of differences between the motors, and one of them is the carbs, but they will still work.

King,

Buy an O.S. motor. They are plenty fast, and they are real easy to tune.

[DLF]

Acually I found out yesterday that the blue springs, which are the lightest, are lighter than than the stock silver springs. Guess I'll start with those. :D

Dana F

[DLF]

Wait a minute, what I just said can't be right. The blues are the heaviest in the set. Ok baileym, I'll go with what you say. Thanks.

Dana F

[DLF]

Just wondering if anyone has replaced their brake linkage with a double threaded one. One that you could replace the setscrewed collar with a nut. To me, it would make adjustment much easier.

Dana F

[DLF]

Wow...is everyone asleep? :D

I've just tore my Mugen down after 6 or so race weekends and have found that all four lower suspension arms are badly warped or bent. Is this normal after a period of time?

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

i dont use that.. i just use the regular allen to adjust i dont use the twist method...

[baileym]

The arms should not be warped or bent. It sounds like you have give your buggy quite a work out. LOL Nothing you can do to fix it other than replace them. The blue springs are the softest in the set. I would suggest you not try to run the blue springs on a track with lots of jumps.

[BuggyBoy]

Originally posted by DLF
Wow...is everyone asleep? :D

I've just tore my Mugen down after 6 or so race weekends and have found that all four lower suspension arms are badly warped or bent. Is this normal after a period of time?

Dana F


what in the heck were you doing?

[DLF]

Nothing...just racing. I'm not that rough on the car...at least I don't think I am. I'm by no means are any harder on a car than any one else. Oh well. These are the orginal arms...the ones I was learning 1/8th scale on. Guess I'll just have to deal with it for a bit.

I should try and get some pics for you guys. The rear arms are twisted. As you follow the profile of the arm from inboard to outboard, the back of the arm starts to twist up. The front arms are simply bent up slightly in the center...about where the sway bar screw goes into the arm.

Dana F

[1Fast_RS4]

Is there anything I should pay attention to if I get the Mugen XR ? I want to know if I have to watch for bent arms or blown diffs or anything. I want to know anything at all that I might have problems with. I still can't decide if I want to buy it. Everything on the buggy seems so cool, I just don't want to spend the money. Is there anything I should pay attention to when I assemble it if I do end up getting it. I saw a post discussing big bore shocks, does the XR come with the big bore or standard? Is there any website that tells everything I would ever want to know about the buggy?

[BuggyBoy]

well for 1 the only hopup youd ever need is big bore shocks and the 3 degree rear susp mount. other then that make sure both the coniocal gears are silver then you know you have the latest kit. Take out the Orings inside the diffs on the smaller diff gears. dont put them in. but use the ones on the outside gears. umm the big bore shocks dont come w/ the XR kit. but they are good ot have especialy if your going off bigger jumps or racing hard because the shock shafts are thicker so they wont break as easy.


http://www.off-road.com/rc/mugenxr/xr.html
that site explains how to put one together pretty good.

rite now www.nitrohouse.com has the XR cheapest i think.

[DLF]

BuggyBoy, where did you hear about removing the conical gear o-rings? It would seem to me doing so would allow the gears to wobble on the shaft too much. Actually, other than that, what is the purpose of those o-rings?

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

actually what you should be doing is buy alot of the shims.. and then first time you build your diff put 1 washer ibehind each gear. second time 2 washers and 3rd time 3 washers. then run it like that forever.

when you take the Orins out behind the smaller gears in the diff it causes the diff to run smoother (then you have go up 1000-2000 in diff oil) most guys will run 7000 center 3000-5000 in front and 1000-3000 in rear. if you run 3000 in the rear you will really whoop guys commin outa the corner cause your car will hook up faster after going around the corner and take off right by em all.


and tim long was the one who told me that. (in another forum)

[Shawn_S]

I was told by a XR owner that the XR comes with CVAs all around. But the XR upgrade only has center f/r CVAs. So if bought a XR upgrade for my RR, I wound still have to buy CVAs to make it a spec XR, right?

Also is there a hop-up center diff brace and a hex screw kit available?

Thanks
Shawn

[BuggyBoy]

umm www.hexcrews.com sells them its probably better just to go to a online store or something and buy 100 of each so you have alot of spares and stuff... thats what most guys do.

[DLF]

Has anyone trimed the front damper boots to prevent them from getting bunched up when compressed? The fronts are a bit too long and would seem to benefit from being trimmed.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

i normally roll up the front ones.. just put the bottom spring holder over it to hold it..

[baileym]

On the diff issue,

3000 is way too thick for the rear, unless you are running on asphalt. Sure it will accelerate great, but it will have no traction in the corners. As for the diff o-rings, take them out, and the diff works better, but the gears do wobble. If you want the diffs to work better and not wobble thus wearing faster, replace the gears with a set from Thunder Tiger. They are the same size, but they are steel, and they last a lot longer than the Mugen parts. I have personally done this conversion, and it is wonderful.

DLF,

On the shock dust cover issue, I trim mine. The problem with the originals is that when you put them under the spring retainer, they trap air inside the boot, and it makes the suspension harder. If you don't believe this, take them off of yours and try it. The suspension will be a lot softer. It also helps on the rear.

[DLF]

Hmmm...ok, I guess I still don't have the diff oil weight thing down yet. What you're saying then is the lighter the weight, the more traction you get from that end of the car? I'm also asking this since my car suffers from a pretty severe push. My kit did not come with the oeverdrive front diff. Though I could go to that, I'm trying not to.

Also, as for the steel gears, are you replaceing just the concial gears or all 6 gears in the diff? Do you have some part numbers? I tried finding them before and couldn't. Thanks.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

baileym yes you will lose traction around the corner but you will also beat them outa the corner...
and if you think im wrong then you can tell the Mugen team they are dumb :)
Tim Long and chad bradley were the ones who told me that.


DLM just run 2-3 washers in the diffs they will be tight and yes they do wear but thats the way the whole Mugen Team runs them.


DLM run 3000 in the rear.

[DLF]

Thanks for all the info guys. Now that I've raced this beast some, the questions keep poping in my head. :D

Bump stops and suspension limiter setscrews on the suspension arms: Why would you want to limit this? I've pretty much got mine set to allow full travel.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

DLF some guys set them some dont.. so its up to you :)

[baileym]

The diff gear part number I am not sure of. I will have to check at home. I always keep the little tabs from the packages, so I should have it. I replace the entire 6 gear set. I shimmed my original Mugen diffs, and they did last longer, but they were never as good as these are.

As for the suspension limiters, they will probably never be of much use on an American track because of all the bumps. We use them all the time in Europe.

As for the diff issue, i guess there is a reason that the Team Mugen guys haven't won anything in a very long time. I can tell you that the top guys in the world(Saxton, Pavidas, Kanai, and Reckward) would never run anything that stiff unless the track they were driving on had insane amounts of grip(i.e. blue groove).

I drove with Daniel Reckward(you do know who he is right?) last weekend, and we talked about set-up. He never runs harder than 1000 in rear. Ever!!!!! His base set-up with 3 regular diffs is 5000 front, 10000 middle, and 1000 rear. He explained that you can play with the front or the middle, but when you go harder than 1000 in the rear, you loose so much corner speed, that it makes it possible to pass on the way out of corners. Here is a real simple theory, that applies to all forms of motorsports. If you maintain a higher corner speed, then you don't need to accelerate so hard, because you are still carrying enough speed. This will also keep the motor in the stronger part of the power range.

A lot of this also relates to clutch tuning also. If you run thinner diff oil, then you can run a harder spring set in the clutch. With 3000 oil in the rear, then you will just spin the wheels on acceleration if you are running a stiff spring in the clutch. Unless you run on a very high bite track.

As with anything in RC, if you can drive it and be fast, then go for it. It is always good to start with what we are sure works, and the Mugen standard diff set-up works. Try 3000 in the rear if you want, but if your car starts sliding all over the track, then you know that you should try a lighter oil again.

[BuggyBoy]

yeah well i was told by a guy whos been racing for 6 months. who knows just about everything so far and what he learned has been from the Mugen guys in the USA the actually guys that work there and full sponsorship.

so they are all good drivers :) probably not a suggested setup for a new driver lol...

stick to 1000 in the rear if you are new but if you wana give it a shot go for the 3000 :) or mix 1000 and 3000.

[baileym]

Give it a shot with the 3000, but I am willing to bet you will like the 1000 better. If you have rear traction problems, then I would suggest you switch back. It only takes 12 screws to change it again.

[DLF]

Well, since I'm having a push problem now, why couldn't I go up sinificantly on the front oil weight? I'm running the stock weight in the front diff now. If I go to a thicker weight oil in the front, should I get more front bite entering the corner? I sure as hell don't have it now. Remember, I'm not running an overdrive front diff.

Dana F

[DLF]

Ok, here's my thinking so far: Leave 1000 in the rear since rear bite isn't an issue. 7000 in the front to help forward bite and 10000 in the center to help even the power transfer between the front and rear. Sound about right to you guys with my conditions?

Dana F

[jasonrcfreak]

you might wanna try 5,000 in the front before you step up to 7,000. I'm running 3000-front, 7,000 center, and 3,000 rear. I'm leary of 3,000 in the rear, but what the heck......that's part of the fun of rc is to experiment and see what works for you. What's right for one person may not be right for someone else. Hell, try Canola oil in the rear diff!!! LOL!! Just Kidding!!! :D

[BuggyBoy]

some guys run a high shock oil in the rear even... but thats when they leave the dif orings in.

[rip93]

Do you run the front sway bar DLF. If so try removing it and see if that helps. It did for me.

[DLF]

Oh yea. Took that off a long time ago. I'm putting big bore shocks on it now and I'll be messing with that some. I started by putting 40wt Associated oil in the shocks with blue springs. We'll see what happens with that.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

where are you driving ?!?! 40wt and blue springs?

im runing 30wt in front w/ white springs and 20wt in rear w/ grey.

and 7000 center 5000 front 1000 rear.

[baileym]

Originally posted by BuggyBoy
some guys run a high shock oil in the rear even... but thats when they leave the dif orings in.


What in the world are you talking about??? :rolleyes: This would make the car almost undriveable. Not only would you loose traction from the diff being too hard, but you would loose traction from the rear suspension also being too hard. Please explain yourself better. Right now, I am starting to get the impression you have no idea what you are talking about.:rolleyes: