Mugen MBX-4, XR, RR Forum v1.0

[baileym]

DLF,

If you are having a push problem, then you need to stick with 3000 in the front. Thicker oil will cause less cornering traction on that end of the car. Try running 0 degree toe out. Is the car pushing entering or exiting a turn? Underpower, or off-power?

[DLF]

I get a push entering the corner...pretty severe at that. Our track is pretty tight in a few places (180 degree turns) and I can't hold a low line in the corner.

Buggyboy, that weight and spring is just what I'm starting with. I've found then when setting up a new car (or in this case, a different set of shocks) I can tune better starting in the middle or a little heavy in damping. I then start getting lighter as I need to to get the car handling better.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

baileym i read it in a different forum.

[baileym]

DLF,

How are your tires wearing. Is the outside more worn than the inside? Right in the middle?

If you need more steering at the beginning of the turn, you should consider moving the two clips on the upper front arm to in front of the arm. This will give more steering entering the turn, but you will lose a little exiting. I would start with 0 degrees toe. This will give you aggressive steering through the whole corner, you will loose a little initial, but it will make the car really rotate around well, and around 1-1.5 degrees camber. This should be a good starting point. Unless you have a really slick surface on your track, run the gray springs. They will keep the car from shifting it's weight to the outside, and pushing the whole car with it.

When you use the preload spacers on the shocks, remember this simple rule. Under normal driving conditions, which ever end is lower will have the most traction. There are exceptions to this, but it is a good place to start. If you need more steering, take a mm or two out of the front, or put a few mm on the rear.

[baileym]

Originally posted by BuggyBoy
baileym i read it in a different forum.

More proof that you shouldn't believe everything that you read on the internet.

Here is a tip for everyone. Just because someone is a team driver, does not mean that they are experts at dialing in a car. I know a couple of team drivers that can run circles around me on a normal track, but when we drive on a track that is very different from normal, they are very beatable because they can't find the right set-up.

[BuggyBoy]

actually i think he was talking about mixing his own oils w/ shock oil and some other stuff or something and it was in the area of 500+ wt i didnt really understand what he did.

but it was from a reliable forum. ones where the Mugen guys talk @

[King]

BuggyBoy I tried to get a S7 but no one had them in stock and I got a C4 insted it should be here by Saturday. Does anyone have a C4 in their XR and what is a good pipe for it?:D :cool:

[BuggyBoy]

you shoulda just gotten a S7 that C4 is all top end you want a low end motor.

i guess run a 12T clutch bell aluminum shoes dont know what springs to run w/ C4 tho but probabl the 1.1.s

and have about 30 spare clutch bell bearings along when you race and do whatever. you will be changing them alot.

shoulda just gotten a S7 or WS7 :/

got my G1s polished....

[baileym]

King,

The C4 has plenty of bottom end power if you tune it right. You have to adjust the clutch to allow the motor to rev a little higher before it engages.

Run a 14 tooth clutchbell to start. Use Mugen aluminum shoe clutch with 1.1 mm springs. For a pipe get an RB 063. It will help the motor build bottom end power. I would suggest that you get a one-piece pipe if you can afford it. It is worth the extra investment for most people. I only run a 2 piece pipe because I know how to tune a pipe correctly.

If you find yourself still not having enough torque, then go with a 13 tooth clutchbell. Never, ever, ever try to use a 12 tooth clutchbell. For starters, you will never get the gear mesh right without the flywheel rubbing on the brakes, and secondly, it would allow the motor to wind out way too fast, and you will snap the con-rod on a long straight away.

Buggyboy,

Stop giving advice out if you don't know what you are talking about. If you don't know, then it is okay to say, "I don't know" No one expects you to have all the answers.

[BuggyBoy]

lol Baileym the C4 is a top end motor all top end it has less low end then a S7 does.... you dont know what your talking about so why dont you shut up?

i know *** im talking about... ive been into R/C all my life but this is my first year racing... but i know whats what. and the C4 does have some low end yes but its not as much as a S7 will have....


and everything i said is true.. but probably run 13 tooth clutch bell your rite about that...

[King]

I will be running a 13 tooth clutch bell, 1.1mm springs with aluminum shoes,a os header and a rb 63 pipe. Fuel will be 30% nitro with 18% oil and mc9 plugs. Thank guys. I hope you get yours running soon BuggyBoy. By the way where did you get the purple radio tray stands they are really cool and do you have the graphite radio tray? Also do you know anything about torsen diffs I have two of them in the car(front and center) and did you bend up the top arm for the breaks a little bit, mine in catching on the diff mount some but not a lot.

[BuggyBoy]

you can get purple alum posts anywhere...


some times torsen diffs aernt good most guys just run stock mugen diffs...

[baileym]

Buggyboy,

I am really happy you been into RC all your life, and I am happy that you are starting out racing this year. That is great, and that is what the hobby needs. My resume shows that I have been racing for about 6 years, and driving RC cars since before you were born. I race with six or seven Mugen team drivers, and a couple of Kyosho and Crono drivers. I currently own a C4, S7, NovaRossi SBK, and I just sold my O.S. I am telling you that the C4 has got plenty of bottom end power if the clutch is set-up right. The motor does not make as much, but you can find the power with the clutch.

King,

The torsen diffs are very aggresive. They allow you to drive very tight lines, and they accelerate a lot better than any other diff out there, because they lock up right away. The downside to Torsen diffs is that they make the car react very quickly to any inputs. They are very hard to drive on slick tracks. If you learn to drive with them, you will be faster. It just takes a while to get used to the diffs. As for the brake linkage, you can either bend the linkage, or use small washers between the servo horn and the part that the linkage is threaded into. Using the washers is a better solution because then when you adjust the brakes, the linkage will still line up right.

[jasonrcfreak]

well, I've some pics of my buggy...........now if I can only figure out how to post them!!! :D

[jasonrcfreak]

mmmmmmmmm..........let's try this!(fingers crossed)

[jasonrcfreak]

wooooohooooooooooo!!! It worked!!! LOL!!

[jasonrcfreak]

One more time! :D

[gbfireman]

baileym... I agree with you, though the C4 is a "top end" motor there is enough low end grunt in it with the right clutch/pipe setup. With a 13 tooth bell and the 63 pipe it will be just fine for any club level race or even regional. I have found that the Nuova Faor 3 shoe kits work well for low end snap. I bought a few of them from National on clearance and they work very well, and they come assesmbled all you have to do is bolt on the flywheel.

Now for my I'm an old man schtick... I think that racers today are spoiled, when I started racing 1/8 scale, the Kyosho Burns, Pirate M1 and OFNA HODR and Tempest were state of the art. Engine selection was limited to say the least. If you think it is hard to find and expensive to buy an Italian made engine today you should have tried to te even find one in 1992. The OS RF was the hot ticket... my how times have changed. Now you can shop online, buy from anywhere in the country,or world and choose if you want a top end or bottom end motor... what a dilemma :)'

By the way if you want a ripping bottom end engine.. Novarossi BX .21BK01 3port... nuff said

[stormperson]

i was wondering if you guys could help me out here. i havent race 8th scale buggy before, although i have raced pretty much every other class, from mod truck to mod 12th scale.

i have a xr kit with a os RG (i know) engine with race worthy servo's. and i have on order a rear brace.

since i cant find a direct link if you go to www.bigboystoysracing.com and click on the outdoor track and scroll down you can see the track layout and size. can you guys suggest to me what to run for a clutch set up? i am currently running a dynamite pipe (i know...)

any suggestions would be great, thanks!

[DLF]

Just wondering. Is there a real perfromance or advantage to replaceing the stock chassis braces? I just can't see where they have any advantage. I can see where there may be some advantage with the updated rear brace since the old one goes to the chassis instead of the center diff.

Dana F

[baileym]

DLF,

The problems with the stock braces are the ball ends. They start to develop slop, and then they don't keep the chassis stiff enough on the front. The rear one just doesn't brace well enough even when new. The chassis braces need to keep the chassis stiff in order for the car to handle consistently, and the stock pieces have a hard time doing this. I noticed a difference when I installed them on mine, but it is not huge. On a rough track, it is most noticable.

stormperson,

I would recommend a 14 tooth clutchbell with Mugen aluminum clutch and 1.0 springs. If the track is slick, then pick up a set of the .09 springs. The RG motor makes enough power to get you over those jumps, you just need to make sure that you can get enough traction. It looks like that track has medium grip, so the 1.0 springs should be a good fit. Based on the length of the straight away, I recommend the 14 tooth clutchbell. If you run a 13 tooth, it is going to reach peak RPM too soon.

[baileym]

gbfireman,

My first experience with a 1/8th was a Turbo Burns with an O.S. motor(can't remember which one anymore). The technology today is amazing. I remember having to reseal the motor after every race. They were horrible. LOL

If you think the BK is good, you should run the older SBK. It is finicky, but man it screams.

[gbfireman]

yeah baileym... those were the good ole days, of hand held bump starters and home made starter boxes. Tuning an engine then was more luck than anything, I think.

I have an older green head REX 5 port (SBK) and and a 3 port (BK) they both are great engines. I feel the 3 port has just a little more pop down low, I don't know if they are timed different at all, but I don't think so, but the 3 port just kills out of the corners and setting up for a jump.

By the way, I have still have my OFNA (2) HODRs and use them to bash around with my father and my nephew. (My wife constantly reminds me that I have too many R/C cars. How can you have too many???) They may not be the most sophiticated rides around, but they are still fun. The best thing is that the parts for any of the current OFNA line, except 9.5 and Hyper 7, will fit my old HODRs

[gbfireman]

one other thing bailey, I replaced the carbs on my REXs with the RB 2 needle carb, and that made them a little more easy to tune, at least for me.

[baileym]

The 3 port has a little more power down low, and the 5 port really comes to life on the straights. I also run RB carbs on my NovaRossi's. The RB carbs are a lot easier in my opinion to tune than the 3 needle Nova.

My wife says the same thing about my cars.

[King]

So did I get a bad engine or a good kick ass engine?:( :)

[BuggyBoy]

well you actually got a kick ass engine maybe even to much :) just gotta learn throttle controll now !! :) hehe

your buggy will be realy fast thats all i can say :) probably about 70 mph hehe maybe more

[King]

70 with a 13 tooth clutch bell!! WOW and how fast with a 14 tooth clutch bell?:D :D

[BuggyBoy]

nooo not 70 w/ 13 tooth probably with a 14+ tooth bell hehe.
but that motor does have alot of speed you will like it.

just make sure you bring extra Clutch bell bearings !! all the guys ive talked to that had them replace them ALOT

thats one of the main reasons i got the WS7 heh.

[baileym]

All 1/8th scale buggies eat up clutchbell bearings. My S7 goes through them like crazy. This is because when you actually race the buggy, you get fuel spilled on the clutchbell during pit stops. This makes dirt (which is the number one enemy of bearings) stick all over the bearings and clutchbell. This is the same reason that the left rear hub bearings go out faster than the right rear. Unburnt fuel and oil coming from the pipe gets all over back there.

The C4 is a kick ass motor, but it is a lot more motor than you should have bought.

[King]

Can I tune it down with carb inserts?

[1Fast_RS4]

I am also looking for a new engine for an XR. I was looking at the RB concepts S7 or the C4. It sounds like the C4 is more top end and doesn't have all of the torque of the S7. I like speed and was wondering should I go and spend the extra money and get the C4?

I was also looking at the Picco Collari XS3200 or the XS2200. Which do you recomend the most out of these 4 engines? I like speed, but if the torque curve is too high, then I will have trouble getting the power needed on acceleration. Right now I have one of the Collari Modified .12 engines in my touring car and am currently breaking it in, so I don't know how well I will like it, but from what I have heard I think it was a good choice. Anyone know what engine to get?

SPECIFICATIONS Picco Collari XS2200
Cubic capacity: 3,49cc
Porting: 5+2+2
Carb: 7mm
Bore: 2.5
Use: Off Road
RPM: 33,000

SPECIFICATIONS Picco Collari XS3200
Cubic capacity: 3,49cc
Porting: 6
Carb: 7mm
Bore: 16,4
Use: Off Road
RPM: 29,500

[BuggyBoy]

i like my WS7 but all you need is the regular one.
and no its not worth the extra $ for a C4 its to much motor actually. the S7 is perfect. or JP Black but thats like $400 i think.

[1Fast_RS4]

I don't believe a thing you say when you say get the S7 is a great engine, then you backstep, and say oh get the JP mod, Those engines are insane, First you say the S7 is good then you say oh wait step up to the best? You say two different things, I lost all respect for you. As your english teacher told you before, make a statement and stick with it, you will be more believeable that way. I am not some english professor or anything, but lets face it, make a decision and stick with it.

[BuggyBoy]

errrrr yeah sure.. whatever you say man.
the JP is one of the best motors for buggies but its expensive.

thats why you get a S7.....


what the hell did i say wrong???

[1Fast_RS4]

You said the S7 is great and made it sound like the others were a little bit much for power, then you say step up to the best. If the S7 is great, then why bother stepping up to the best when it has more power than any of the other engines I was talking about? I know it is possible to have too much power, and you make it sound like the S7 is perfect, then you tell me to get the most powerful engine? What gives?

[BuggyBoy]

im just saying the S7 is a good engine but the JP is also good but its alot more expensive.

if you go to big tracks most of the guys will be running the S7's and the JP's

the guy i get my info says the JPs are mostly in first place (if theres a good driver on one) and then the S7s are just behind them.

[BuggyBoy]

sorry i didnt mean to say anything bad....not trying to make enemies here or anything !!

[baileym]

The S7 line of motors is probably more motor than you will ever be able to use on any American track. The European Championships were won by a S7 series last year. The guy running them could have chosen from any RB motor that he wanted, and he choose the S7 line.

As for JP motors, they may be great, but I have yet to be passed on a straight away by one. I have in fact never been passed on a straight away with my S7 motor. It will also accelerate just as hard as any other motor out there. Like I posted before, I have got quite a few motors, and I have raced them all. I keep coming back to the S7. It runs consistently, and has tons of power.

As or the Collari modified motors, I wouldn't buy one. First they are a Picco motor, which have the worst carbs in the industry, and secondly, usually all the special modified engines have are a polished crank and exhaust . I personally have done these same mods to my motors with a dremel, and I refuse to pay for something that I can do myself. Plus, it doesn't make that big of a difference. It will not improve your laptimes over a normal motor, unless you can already drive flawlessly.

King,

Yes the C4 can be tuned down with carb inserts, and that is probably a good idea when you are starting out in this class.


Also one more newsflash,

RB will be releasing the C5 soon.

[baileym]

One more thought on the motor issue. You will never get the full power out of a motor anyways unless you are running torsens. What I am really trying to say in all of this is stop worrying about getting a hand tuned motor. Buy a regular motor and drive it until you are able to turn consistently fast laps, and then start looking for that extra .1 second per lap that you can get from a motor.

I have spent about 3000 on all of my stuff for my buggy, and I still was near last place until I started practicing twice a week. I have now moved way up, and I didn't spend any money extra except on fuel for practice. The difference in price between a JP or Collari and a S7 is a lot of fuel for practicing.

[BuggyBoy]

yeah ive got about $5,000 into all my stuff. with spare parts and crap. This is my first year racing. one of the main things i got left to learn is Suspension setup hehe.
but im still learning !!!

[King]

I'm having a problem with my front torsen. It feels like it's got rocks in it but I took it apart and everything looks fine. I hold one wheel and I can turn the other one but it's very rough and I don't force it. The center torsen is silky smooth and acts nothing like the front. I'm going to pace the front with some axle grease and see if that smoothes it up some. I just don't want to have to spend a lot of money for a new one. I know these buggy's cost a lot and I need to get some more spare parts. Oh the engine that was in this buggy before I bought it was a collari 2200 he sold the collari because in his words it was either cruzing or hauling a@@ so he put in a C4.

[BuggyBoy]

your using torsen oil rite? cause i know the oil you use in the torsons is not the same as a regular diff.

[King]

I don't know what's in it.

[BuggyBoy]

errr your running torsens w/o oil?

[King]

no I'm going to pack them with axle bearing grease

[BuggyBoy]

im not 100% sure but i think your suppose to buy special oil for torsens....

[jimbo]

The Fioroni Torsens use a special gold grease sold by Fioroni, The Nouva faor use a torsen oil, and the Ofnas also use a good high temp grease. The torsens work good on high bite tracks. Most racers seem to go back to the reg. diffs. In the Mp-7.5 they will run the Kanai diffs front and center or front and rear with 7000 in the center. This gives you a very quick rearend and a ton of steering.(very easy to spin out) Most US team drivers still use the standard diffs.( Mugen, Kyosho, TT). Billy Easton (Team-TTR) switched from torsens to the standard diffs at the Silver State race (Vegas) and went on to win the A-main. A center Torsen alone usually makes your car push like crazy.

[jimbo]

The newer Storm Torsens from Fioroni use the grease, the older style Japan and Hyper traction Torsens use a oil. Ofna also has a new Torsen for the 9.5 which uses an oil and looks alot like the Nouva Faor.

[BuggyBoy]

yeah i figured they were different

i wish somebody in the US could get the fioroni braces for the mugen !! the ones that go down to the chassis.

[baileym]

The storm diffs use copper paste. You can get it at any automotive store. You can also buy it for a bunch of money from Fioroni.

The Fioroni braces that go to the chassis are crap. I put them in my Mugen, and they lasted all of about 30 minutes until the back one snapped in half. I landed hard on the rear of the chassis, and it snapped the brace clean in half. I replaced it with the Mugen braces that run from the rear to the middle diff, and have yet to have a problem since.

Torsens will usually make the car very very quick in the corners. They don't fit everyones driving style though. A lot of people can't handle or don't want the extra steering. On a track with a lot of traction, they are really hard to drive consistenly. In low traction conditions, they are wonderful though. The car stays very tight in the corners. The only problem is that the car will sometimes lose traction when you accelerate. If you want to run just one torsen, then put it in the front of the car. This will make the car drive very point and shoot style, because it will literally drag the rest of the car wherever the front is going.

[BuggyBoy]

I was told from everybody that a brace going down to chassis is better then the center diff.
ive got G1's now but was thinking abouthaving my friend make me some braces hes got a few mills and CNCs and stuff in his garage(his dad owns a Machine @ tool)


i was looking @ torsens but i didnt think they were worth $400. i think most people run the regular ones..

[baileym]

A brace going to the chassis is not as stiff as a brace to the middle diff. This will make the car flex more on a bumpy track, and it will maintain more grip. The problem is that it is completely uncontrollable flex, and you can't tune that. I prefer a very rigid car that I can adjust the suspension for the track, instead of letting the chassis flex all over. Keep your G1's, and spend your money on fuel for practicing at the track.

Torsens are also not needed for someone just starting out in racing. Just practice like crazy with what you have. When you have driven about a year, ask to drive someone else's car with Torsens in it. Wait until you are good though. A car with Torsens is pretty much undriveable for most rookie racers.

[BuggyBoy]

oh i see

[diesel757]

baileym

then would you recommend for someone new to 1/8 the xr over the kanai 7.5 if they were around the same price. i was considering the kanai because of the tosen diffs. i m tring to find a xr used but seem to have better luck with the 7.5. if i buy new i will defintly get a xr.

also when you refer to the S7 are you reffering to the europa?i m thinking about buying one(europa) used over the internet for around $150-200. sound good?

thanks
rob

[BuggyBoy]

you dont need a worlds just get a regular S7 new they are only $200.

[Lil-Boy]

I was wondering where you may get the torsen diffs online. My hobby store near by is out for at least a month and I was wondering where I may be able to get them. Thanks

[jimbo]

The copper paste is actually a anti-seize grease. They use to come with a lithium.I have also broken the Fioroni brace and the NF braces bend easy. The G1 work well but if you want a chassis mount brace try the JT or Hardcore.With Torsens on a slick bumpy track you need alot of throttle control(car is very nervous) where on a high traction track you can drive it like a slot car.

Most people who get the Kanai buy a set of reg. diff gears. They still work best and are more consistent on most tracks.The Kanai diffs also wear quick because of their friction design.You leave the big shims out with the kanai diffs. They will warp and lock the diff up. Their design is quite a bit different than actual Torsens.

[BuggyBoy]

Originally posted by Lil-Boy
I was wondering where you may get the torsen diffs online. My hobby store near by is out for at least a month and I was wondering where I may be able to get them. Thanks


it depends what diffs you want you can get the Ofna ones(not the best from what ive heard) from ace-hobbies.com i think natl rc might sell some to.

there are a few diff kinds it all depends what you want. then you can find out where to get them.

[baileym]

I can not recommend the XR over the 7.5 because it is harder to set-up correctly without a Hudy system. The 7.5 is a great car, and is easier to drive for a beginner. The 7.5 has very neutral handling characteristics, and the XR is much more aggressive(not always good). The 7.5 is very point and shoot, and the XR requires more finesse to drive.

As for the motor issue, the only thing different in the WS7 from the normal S7 is the special coating that is supposed to make the crankshaft, and the con-rod last longer. I have yet to have any problems with my normal S7, so I don't see why you would need the coating. The motors have all the same parts other than the coating and the color.

As for getting a used motor, I would never buy a motor used because there are a lot of idiots out there who don't know how to properly maintain a motor.

As for the torsen online question, there is a world-wide shortage of diffs right now because the season is starting soon. Almost everyone is out right now.

[BuggyBoy]

yeah kinda like the mugen big bores !! heh there are a few stores that have 1 or 2 for a while i think mugens getting more this week tho.

[DLF]

Someone mentioned removing the four conical o-rings to make the diff smoother. To those of you that have done it, did you feel it nessecary to go up in diff weight to compensate?

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

DLF i did..
i took out all the orings (besides the outher big ones).
and im running 5000 front 3000 rear 7000 center..

[baileym]

DLF,

Don't go up in weight to compensate. I used to run the Mugen gears, and I only ever removed them in the rear diffs. The other diffs, I didn't mind having a little less diff action, so I left them in.

[DLF]

Wait, you mean you left the o-rings in the other diffs except the rear?

BTW, does anyone have any idea what purpose those o-rings serve?

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

i dont know what purpose they serve. but just take them out of all of them it makes it alot smoother.

[baileym]

Buggyboy,

If you don't know what the purpose of something is, then don't tell someone to take them out. Just be quiet and wait till someone who knows answers the question.:mad:

DLF,

The o-rings do slowdown wear in the diffs. The only diff that I felt really need to be freed up was the rear. I left the middle o-rings in there, and ran 7000, and in the front I ran either 3000 or 5000.

[DLF]

Well, for the time being I've decided to just keep them all in there. Once I get the oil weights the way I want, then I may consider taking them out.

On the other hand, I really don't want to take them out until I know what purpose they serve. I don't think their only purpose is to slow wear...although I must admit, I can't think of any other purpose they would serve.

Dana F

[DLF]

Do you guys know if any of the avaliable rear tension rods out there will mount to the center diff carrier with two screws instead of one? I ask because I have now seen two cases where the single attachment method failed. There's too much load on that single screw and the screw sheared from the load. It makes sense to carry the load to two screws instead. If nothing is avaliable, I may consider having my own machined.

Dana F

[baileym]

DLF,

I have never seen a brace like you are referring to. I know that Mugen doesn't make one. You are probably looking at a custom job. As for the diffs, no one has ever been able to tell me why they are there other than to help prevent wobble on the shafts, as the gears wear. This is a problem as gears get old. They start to develop slop on the shafts. The o-ring's take up that slop and keep the gears from wobbling. Sorry I can't give you any more info. I believe I got the idea to only take them out in the rear diff from Kenji Osaka's set-up sheets on the Mugen website.

[King]

I got my C4 today and I can't get it to turn over so I can start the break in process. I have put a little fuel down in the head so it will have some oil and it still won't crank over. I can bearly turn it over by hand but I expected it to be that tight. So what do you guys suggest I do. I am going to try and heat the head so it will expand a little towmorrow and see if it will help.

[BuggyBoy]

just push it down hard on that STarter box put the glowheater on and then just keep pushing it down for a second to get it going itll start up.
what starter box you running

[baileym]

Once again buggyboy, you are wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't ever try to force a tight motor to turn over. This is what causes premature con-rod failure. Plus, you will never get a C4 to turn over like that. The proper way to do it is to first blow on the exhaust line by disconnecting it from the exhaust. This is to force fuel up to the carb. you should spin the flywheel away from top dead center, so that it is moving freely. Then put it on the starter box, and let er rip. It is still going to get stuck at the top a lot, and sometimes, you will have to use a screwdriver to force the flywheel back down from TDC.

[baileym]

It is also a good idea to warm it up like you said. Use a hairdryer or a heatgun if you have one.

[BuggyBoy]

im not wrong... what you said is basically what i did... i had to keep turning the flywheel back to the bottom and push it down hard. but i had a ofna box and it sucked .

now i got a mugen box and no problems.

i used a really good milluwakee heat gun to heat it up tho.

[King]

Well I got it running but I can't get it to idel for more than 3 min. I was told to have it idel for 3 tank rich and then to start driving it giving it blips and nothing more than half throttle running it rich for 3 more tanks. Is that right? Oh I sprayed some wd40 and it cranked over on the first try.:D :D
P.S this is my first time breaking in a engine
P.S.S This engine is going to RIP.:D :D :D

[Shawn_S]

My head came loose yesterday, and today I took it apart. I noticed that the area around the glow plug (the combustion area) is black soot-like and the glow plug is a light black. I ask my friend today bout' it and he said it was because I was running it rich. But the metal looks like its burnt IMO. But he said if it was burnt it would be clearer and not sooty like it is.

So is he right? But if it is torched is it still good?

[BuggyBoy]

Originally posted by King
Well I got it running but I can't get it to idel for more than 3 min. I was told to have it idel for 3 tank rich and then to start driving it giving it blips and nothing more than half throttle running it rich for 3 more tanks. Is that right? Oh I sprayed some wd40 and it cranked over on the first try.:D :D
P.S this is my first time breaking in a engine
P.S.S This engine is going to RIP.:D :D :D


yeah and drive it on a flat area to not going up steep hills :)

dont know how good wd40 in a r/c engine is tho.. never tried it ?? heh

[baileym]

King,

The problem with the idle is that it is so rich, that the pipe is probably filling with oil and fuel. Tilt it every thirty seconds or so, so that it can clear it's self out a little bit. Good Luck

[DaniandD]

Anyone heard of this engine (not the #51216)?

[BuggyBoy]

i dont know to much about ofna engines so no :(

[DLF]

I'm looking at getting a rear tension rod for my XR and have found the Mugen and the G1 rods. Are there other brands? These two look essentially the same to me. What brand/type do you guys suggest? It looks almost as thought it really doesn't matter much.

Thanks
Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

i like my G1's.
ive got all 3 of em. you can get em a lil cheaper when you get all 3 i think i paid $65 shipped for both mine straight from him(the guy that makes them).
i did the rounding and poishing tho they come square.
http://imagesite.ihelix.net:85/Jason/G1polished2.jpg
http://imagesite.ihelix.net:85/Jason/frontsuspolished.jpg

[1Fast_RS4]

Originally posted by BuggyBoy
i dont know to much about ofna engines so no :(

Buggy boy can you please not post pointless answers, it is an understood you don't know anything about the engine if you don't post an answer. I know it takes longer to load a page if there is lots of useless information on it.

[stormperson]

i raced 8th scale for the first time today with my xr, few Q's:

1)my car pushed like mad. i was running a tight track, although under breaking i had little to no steering (brake bias problem? how do i dial in more steering under breaking?), and exiting the turn i couldnt get on the throttle at all. i got the buggy used, and the front end has black springs, and the rear has blue. i know the rear has 30 wt oil in it, but i have no clue about the front, although when i push it down it really doesnt spring up. could that be the cause?

i only finished one qualifier and i made the A (too bad i couldnt stay for it), but for an onroad guy such as myself offroad this summer should be fun as soon as i learn how to tune the car.

thanks!

[baileym]

It sounds like you don't have the right amount of preload spacers on the shocks. The front arms should sit level, and in the rear, the universals should be level. This will make the rear of the car sit a little lower. Try 35 weight oil in the front, and 30 in the rear. Set up the suspension at -1 degree camber in the front and rear. Set your toe at 0 degrees in the front, and 2 degrees in the rear. This set-up should get you started. I don't know what those springs are that you have. The black ones are probably MIP progressives, and the blue could be about 5 different brands.

The standard Mugen springs are good, I would consider picking up a set of them.

On the brakes, most of the fast guys set-up their buiggies with a lot of front brake bias. You have to learn to drive by braking before the corners, and then letting it roll for the first part of the corner, and then accelerating out of the corner.

In general, everyone who drives 1/8th for the first time says that the car pushes too much. They are not 1/10th scales, and they never will handle like one. You have to remember how fast they are going, and then it make sense that they push a little.

[stormperson]

interesting, thanks for the set up advice. since my track races onroad and offroad on the same day, and i am going to be racing nitro sedan and 8th scale buggy, is there anyway i can changed the car so i can drive it more like a 10th scale, so i can go from car to car more easily, or will i just have to do a few more warm up laps?

[baileym]

You are just going to have to do a few more warm up laps. Unless your buggy track is very high grip, the car will just never turn well enough. I suggest that you get the suspension harder if you want it to handle more like a TC. You stand the risk of loosing grip in the turns, but it will make it more aggresive.

[DLF]

Hey guys. I've noticed that the Ofna buggys have an interesting easily adjustable brake linkage on the servo. Has anyone used this? It has a thumb knob out at the servo that allows total adjustment.

Dana F

[stormperson]

what will adjusting the brake bias do?

also since i know that the track will either be a mud bog (Since they use a firehouse to wet it down) or dry and dusty, is there any way that i could set it up so i could enduce a slide, since the current brake bias its really hard for me to, so i could adjust my driving style depending on the track conditions.

btw for cleaning off the car, would using a water hose at lower psi be that bad for the car? would it rust out parts or would it just be a danger to the electronics?

[diesel757]

hey matt;
thanks to you I now know what buggy will be better for me. The MP 7.5 sound like the ticket. I will still be getting a XR, only after I start out with a Kanai. what would you recomend I buy when I get this kit? My local track is pretty damn big, and it should be blue grooved the next time I race(just put soil sement down). been raining to much to race. Thanks for answering with honest unbiased replies. :D

Thanks
Rob

Oh Ya... what tires for blue groove?

[baileym]

Brakes:

The Ofna system is just a copy of what a lot of guys have been building for years. The system works great and is really easy to use.

Brakebias:

More front brakes will cause the car to go pretty much straight now matter how you turn the wheels under braking. This is the fast way around the track. You brake at the end of the straight away, get your speed down, and then accelerate through the corner.

Rear brake bias makes the car slide all over the track. If you tap the brakes while cornering, you will start a 4 wheel drift. This is not a very fast way around the track. The car can't be made to stay low in the corners, and it is basically undriveable in race conditions.

For cleaning the car, you can use a hose, but you need to remove the radio tray motor and fuel tank. You will also need to plan on replacing your bearing more often if you do this. Also spray every thing with WD-40 after you get it wet.

I recommend you get a air compressor, and just use air to keep it clean.

Kanai:

Good choice for you. You need to invest in good servos. This is the most important thing that I can recommend. I run Hitec digital servos 5945. They are decent quality for the price. I stripped a lot of Futaba servos before I went to Hitec.

After that, a good motor. I highly recommend either O.S. or RB. I have never had good success with Picco motors. The RB S7 would probably be your best bet for a motor.

As for tires, I really don't know. I have never driven on Blue Groove. Just talk to the fast guys at your track.

[DLF]

diesel757, I ran blue groove about 2 weeks ago for a few tanks and the Crime Fighters worked good. I didn't however get a chance to try anything else. It just appeared to me that that tire would have worked better than anything I had. It worked well.

Dana F

[stormperson]

thank you very much for explaining all of this to me, since i would like to go for the A main win, and once i figure out this car, i feel i should be able to within a month.

[baileym]

One more thing...

If the car is pushing, or if you need to get rid of rear traction, use the swaybar on the rear. If the track is semi bumpy, use the small bar, if it is pretty flat and smooth, then go with the thicker bar. Make small adjustments on the sway bar. A couple of mm makes a big difference in this car. If your track is really bumpy, then leave the swaybar out, and you make the rear harder by going up in weight on the oil and using a stiffer spring. If the car still pushes too much, then SLOW DOWN more. LOL

[diesel757]

matt
ya i will be using hi-tech servos, that what i run in my xxxnt. and as far as a engine, i will also be running a s7. but what about the diffs? do i need to get standard diffs or should i run the kanai torsens?

thanks again
rob

[baileym]

Try the Kanai diffs. If you don't like the way the car accelerates, and turns, then give standard diffs a shot. The Kanai diffs are good, but not for everyones driving style.

[Lil-Boy]

Hey just went to there and tried out the track. This is the first time I was able to get my car the and run it on the track. It seem that the track is very bumpy so it would be hard to get a nice clean run. Some potholes here and there. Anybody else been there. it is located in Montclair Ca. Also if you guys had run on a bumpy track before what shock oil do you recommend. Also must say that this car is AWESOME. Only reason that I am not still there is that I did not take enough gas. This is my first rc car and I got it about a month ago so it was fun. Anybody been there. Thanks in advance for everything.
This is what I have.
MBX-XR
RB CS engine (Was only able to get this due to Wife:mad: ) But strong enough for me.
RB one piece pipe 9886
Hitec 5945 Steering
Hitec 5925 Throttle

Thanks Juan.
Also Once I have a dig cam will post pics of track and of car.

[DLF]

I somehow go a hold of a 15 tooth pinion and was wondring if anyone has found it to be too much for most engines. Since it seems the OS V01B is more of a bottom end motor, I was thinking of giving it a try. If I'm not mistaken, the stock pinion is a 13. I'm not too sure about jumping two teeth. These are 32 pitch gears and I wouldn't go two teeth on and electric, which is 48 pitch. Anyway, thoughts?

Dana F

[rcboy618]

ive been to peagsus before, the track is REALLY small, exspecially for 1/8 scale. you should try going to kz, the track is HUGE, it's even alittle big for 1/8 scale. peagsus is great for 1/10 electric and gas truck. well even for 1/10 scale it is small. here is the web site to kz www.kzspeedway.com check it out. it is near the burbank airport, there is also a huge on road track, perfect for 1/5 scale.

[baileym]

DLF.

A fifteen tooth clutch bell is way too big for most American tracks. We can hardly even run those in Europe. If you want to gear up, then try a 14, but I would save the 15 for speed runs in the street. It just won't be worth much on the track.

Lil-Boy,

If that is your first RC car, then the CS is more motor than you will need for a long time. If your track is small, then you will never get any use out of a stronger motor. 3 port motors have plenty of power for small tracks.

[DLF]

Thanks, baileym. I was kinda thinking the same. I may stick the thing on anyway during some practice runs just to see what happens. Our track is fairly tight, but is has a long back-straight that's great to open up on.

Dana F

[DLF]

My LHS seems to have an abundance of the neon green 5-spoke Kyosho wheels. i was wondering if you guys knew if these wheels would fit the XR. I've already learned that the older Ofna wheels strike the suspension parts on the XR, so I wanted to make sure these would work before I bought them. thanks.

Dana F

[Tony DeJesus]

Hi,

I just got my MBX4 XR and I had a blast putting it together but I am not sure that that I got that Over geared dif right is there any way to tell thw gears apart? Please help!

Thanks,
T.D.

[baileym]

DLF,

There is only one way to be sure. Take your buggy with you.

Tony,

You probably don't have underdriven gears. Mugen stopped putting that in the cars a while ago, because it was really hard on the middle diffs, and the universals. If you look at the two big gears, if one is underdriven, it will be a different color from the other.

[Tony DeJesus]

OK I definatly do not have the over drive in the front but how would it help if i did? Is it worth it?

Thanks,
T.D.

[baileym]

Tony,

It is just an extra tuning option. It is definately not the hot set-up on a lot of tracks. Don't worry about getting the parts for it. Just drive it like it is.

[King]

Well I got my RB C4 broken in. It has got a lot of top end and a decent bottom end for running a 14 tooth clutch bell. I'm going to try and take it to the track tomorrow and see what it can do and how good I can handle the major power it puts out. I drove it on a atv trail today and I'm very impresed with the engine. It has a wide power band and gets on the pipe with in a few feet and it won't get off till it tops out. Like I said I'm very impressed with this engine and I would recemend it to any body who has a 1/8 buggy. :D :D :D :D

[baileym]

Originally posted by King
Well I got my RB C4 broken in. It has got a lot of top end and a decent bottom end for running a 14 tooth clutch bell. I'm going to try and take it to the track tomorrow and see what it can do and how good I can handle the major power it puts out. I drove it on a atv trail today and I'm very impresed with the engine. It has a wide power band and gets on the pipe with in a few feet and it won't get off till it tops out. Like I said I'm very impressed with this engine and I would recemend it to any body who has a 1/8 buggy. :D :D :D :D

What clutch set-up are you running on that?

[King]

14 tooth clutch bell, 1.1 springs and aluminum shoes

[baileym]

That sounds pretty good. If you need more bottom end punch, then you can use the 13 tooth bell, but you will probably start getting a lot of tire spin like that.

[Lil-Boy]

Was looking at the Mugen site for option parts and came accross the Tactyl Diff from BBF. Other than what the page says anybody have heard anything else. Here is a link.
Tactyl II Diff. (http://www.mugenseiki.com/bbf-tactyl2-e.htm)
Thank you
Juan

Also I was wondering what option parts I should get. The car is stock. I was thinking og getting the al. clutch. Is there anything that I should consider. I went to a track yesterday (Lake Perris RC park) and by the end of the day I was able to go the whole tank without crashing!!! I am going to rebuid the diffs with 5000 front and thinking 7000 for center and 1000 for the rear.

MBX-XR
RB CS engine
RB one piece pipe 9886
Hitec 5945 Steering
Hitec 5925 Throttle

Thank you
Juan

[baileym]

The Tactyl Diffs work great. They make the car much easier to drive. They are however pieces of junk. They wear quickly and they leak. My personal suggestion is that if you are looking to blow money on your car, buy an aluminum clutch, Big Bore shocks, and fuel. These things will all make you much faster than the diffs ever will. Then in a year or two when you are getting good consider new diffs. When you consider new diffs get either Nuova Faor or Fioroni.

[speedydave]

Hey guys. Yesterday I drove a Mugen XR, and it was awesome! That was my first time driving a 1/8 buggy, and though I only got 2 laps in(guy was running the tank dry, so it died while I was driving it), I love it! I had been debating whether or not to buy a 1/8 buggy lately, and I knew I wanted a Mugen XR, but now I'm sure! I have a few questions for you guys.

First off, what hop ups do you recommend out of the box, for the XR? I know the Big Bore shocks are necessary, as the stockers can snap rods easily, but is there anything else you'd recommend?

Second, what engines have you guys used before, and how do they all compare to each other? Right now, I'm debating between an RB S7(not worlds), or an OS RZ-V01b. The OS is a bit on the expensive side, but I've never used an RB engine before, so I don't know how they do(though it seems liek the most popular engine at my track is the RB WS7). I've got an OS CV .12 in my FTGT, so I know how OS's are. :) My track changes between two different tracks(one outdoor, one covered, but not enclosed, so we can run nitro as well as electric), and the indoor track is run for about 3-4 months out of the year, and the outdoor the rest of the time. The outdoor track is slightly shorter, but has a larger overall area, is looser, and is usually more technical. The indoor track usually has a long front straight(the dirt oval is separate outdoors, but for winter they combine the DO and offroad tracks), is high traction, and is usually more of a high speed track. I'm thinking about getting a higher HP engine for the indoor track for my FTGT, but the .21's are waaay too expensive to be buying a whole ton. Thanks a lot, guys! :)

[King]

First thing get the 3.5 shocks,then get front and center torsen diffs, I have them and they are great. Next get the G1 industries chassie braces and get a set of titantium turn buckles. As for a engine get a RB they rock and are a lot better than any OS. I have a C4 in my xr and it flies. Get a RB pipe too. I would recomend getting the 63 and the 86 pipes. The 63 is a killer combo for the C4. I should know...that is what I run. Don't let any body tell you that the C4 doesn't have a lot of bottom end. I can break the tires loose on anything but asphalt. So it has a very healthy dose of torque and a very good top end. The C4 may not be the engine for you but I would with either a RB or a Novarossi. Never a OS!!! But that is just my opinion. :cool:

[speedydave]

Why don't you like OS engines? The whole reason I want the S7 over the WS7 is price. I'm 14, so it's going to take me a while to save up for the car anyways, but I want some nice stuff. I don't need a super powerful engine, just something to be competitive. The reason I'm considering the V01b out of the OS engines is because the RG just looks cheezy to me. Same with hop ups, I don't want to spend more then I need to. I'm actually a pretty good driver(must be for someone to trust me with their month old XR, huh?), so I can handle power, but I don't NEED it...thanks for your opinion though :) Not saying your opinion is dumb, or anything, just re-stating what I said, to make sure you knew that! ;)

[DLF]

Speedydave, the V01B is plenty competative. You won't be let down. Alot of people will talk down the OS engines before ever seeing a V01B run. They are without a doubt the most competative .21 engine OS has ever made...better than the previous V99B. You won't be disapointed.

Dana F

[DR.GT]

DLF:

A true statement! I've only started 1/8 this year but I have 13 years 4WD Mod electric experience and 7 years gas truck. I'm plenty fast with my V99b on a 600' track and WATCH OUT as I'm coming hard and plenty fast!

:)

[diesel757]

I would go with the s7. don't get me wrong os engine are top notch but for the money id go with the s7. but i wouldn't count out the cs. a buddy of mine is running one and it is doing him well. has plenty of power. it's not quite a s7 but not to far off. i think it is the best engine in its price range. later...rob

[diesel757]

bailey m;
made it back to the states yet?

[King]

I have seen a os rzv01b run and my c4 still beat it. speedydave this is my first 1/8 buggy and I love it. I have had a os and it was a good engine. I have two friends that have os01 b's and they are both haveing problems with them. One is leaking around the card and the other is just not running right. RB has a form where you can talk to Rody he is one of the two guys that modyfies them and he can help you with anything. It don't have to be a c4 or a s7 but trust me for a 21 i would get a RB. They are easier to work on and they can take a lot of punishment and still come back for more. I know i ran my c4 for almost 5 tanks straight with out shuting it off and letting cool down and not a single problem. But let me warn you,you will want to get a lot of clutch bell bearings,I blew both of mine today. I got my c4 from debbies rc world for 278.99,they sell the os rzv01b for 309.99. But it's up to you to decide no one can make that choice for you all we can do is give you advice. My advice is get a RB and about 3 or 4 sets of clutch bearings. Why not go to their website and see what they have compaire them to os and you will see what I mean. The rb we site is www.rbproducts.com. If the guys are running S7's at the track I would get one of those.That way you can ask one of them on how to set it up. :) :)

[DLF]

Welp, had to happen eventually. I just burnt up my first diff. The rear diff is locked up. It'll be interesting to get it apart and see what happened. Guess now I can replace the gears with those new steel ones that I've had in my box for the last 3 months. :D

Dana F

[speedydave]

Thanks King. I figure that if I get an RB, it'll be the standard S7, which shouldn't have enough power to burn through clutch bearings. I don't need that much power, nor could I put it down anyways..the track is too slick. :( I can't always put down my standard .12 CV's power to my GT on this track..it's that dusty out there. Yes, the XR is 4wd, but still, I'd be spinning the wheels, and I'd rather have traction with a less powerful engine than spin the wheels with a more powerful engine. :p

[DLF]

Heh...yea, that happened today too. I burnt up both clutch bearings on mine as well. Second set.

The point is, I don't doubt the RB's ability. On the other hand, don't doubt the OS's. I complelty disagree with King's statment on the OS engine being a problem. I think everyone would agree that the OS is the most forgiving, reliable and easiest to tune than most of the others out there. It may not be as quick as some of the others, but trust me, it's no dog. It's a hugh improvment over their previous endevors. I'm sure I'm not the only one to say that.

Dana F

[Shawn_S]

while we're on engines....

what does everyone think about Trinity's new Sirio engine? The alum. piston & sleeve idea sounds very good. Also the engine looks very well constructed.

Here's the desp. from trintiy:
The .21 racing engine will come in an "On-Road" and "Off-Road" model. Both motors feature AAC piston/sleeve construction, 7 ports, button turbo head, hardened turbo crank, hardened car barrel insert, 3 tuning adjustment slide carb, and a volume metric racing pack-plate. The "Buggy" and "On-Road" motors are differentiated by the power bands. The "On-Road" motor has a much "harder" hitting power band and the "Buggy" engine is tuned to be smoother to help get the power to the ground in the dirt.

And the specs:
Sirio .21 Off-Road Pro Buggy Racing Engine AAC piston/sleeve, button turbo head, hardened turbo crank, hardened car barrel insert, 3 tuning adjusment slide carb, 7-7.5-8-8.5 restrictors included, volumetric back-plate




I also have to questions. 1. Are turbo plugs legal for racing? And 2. Is AAC legal for racing?

Pic of engine

[baileym]

Hey everyone!

Well let me try to add my two cents to all the conversations here.

No I am not back in the states yet. I fly next Monday the third.

Tuning parts for the Mugen.

The only ones that you really need are the aluminum clutch and the shocks. Everything else is unnecessary money. The chassis braces are nice but you can live without them. Torsens only help on fairly smooth tracks, and even then, you don't need them to be competitive. I will put it this way. If you aren't in the A main with regular diffs, you won't make it with Torsens either.

Motors,

The RB and the O.S. are both great motors, and you will be satisfied with either. I would get the RB just because it is a lot cheaper for the S7. Don't worry about getting the worlds or the C4. You don't need them to win. As for someone who can't get an O.S. to run right, buy an electric, because you obviously aren't meant to drive nitro.

[DLF]

Well put on the OS point there, baileym. Kinda what I was getting at...without being so blunt. :)

Dana F

[TalleyRacing]

I don't know how many folks have heard of CMB engines, but I recently set up a dealership without ever running one. For about the smae money as a WS7 with exhaust you can get on of these engines, and they run like an improperly fondled ape. They make unreal low end torque with top end equal to a C4. If anyone is interested in giving one a try, let me know.

[Shawn_S]

Breaking News!

I just heard from a pretty reliable source that Mugen is planning on a new buggy kit to be released some time in the near future:eek: !

[TalleyRacing]

It's not really a new kit. It's just a revised verion of the XR. Same thing that Kyosho is doing with the K2.

[jasonrcfreak]

Talley-
I've heard of them, I've never seen one in person. I've seen them in pics, one with a green head and the other with a purple head. I think one is a long stroke and the other a short stroke.
Most everyone around here is running O.S., with a couple of Cronos and RB's sprinkled in. What do you think of them so far? Have you run one yourself?

DLF-Bailey's never been one to beat around the bush!! :D

[TalleyRacing]

I run the new 10 port Raptor. It's the short stroke with the purple head. The thing is unreal. Temps at 190 and it runs with anything out there. Take it up to 220, and it's uncontrolable. It's got more low end than my old modified WS7, and as much top end as a C4. Plus, the power band is very broad and very smooth. I haven't really timed it for run times yet, because it's still running rich, being that it only has about 1/2 gallon through it for break in, but so far I love it. I'm proud to be a CMB dealer, put it that way.

[baileym]

CMB motors are fairly popular here in Germany. They are really great motors, and some of the things they try are really innovative for off-road. The tapered piston is a great example of this. All of their motors make great power and are reliable. I am glad to see they are catching on a little in the states. You are the first dealer that I have heard of other than National RC.

[baileym]

Just so you know, if the raptor also has the tapered piston, then it should not be running as hot as a normal motor. Around 200 or 210 if it is really hot outside.

[TalleyRacing]

Mathew, you are correct on the temps. The guy on the ground with the temp gun and screwdriver went a tad farther than 1/8 of a turn for the last adjustment. He temped it when it came in and I liked to have had a stroke. 230 for a CMB is like 310 for anything else, basically. The low temps are one more reason these engines last so much longer than anything else. 10 gallons is not unheard of with a CMB. 6-8 gallons is the low average. I definately would recomend a CMB to anyone looking for a long term investment as far as engines are concerned, and that is the racer in me, not the dealer speaking.

[DR.GT]

Talley Racing:

I was just looking at your competions (NationalRC) CMB's online and they say they are 6 & 8 port engines. You stated a 10 port. So yours is a different engine than what they sell I take it. What is your price for your engines please. Could you send me some info and specs on your CMB line please. I'm looking for a pilot shaft for my 7.5.

thanks...Don

molsonindy@telus.net

:)

[TalleyRacing]

I will indeed email you. A rundown of what is for everyone first though. The short stroke SSi is no longer available. It has been replaced by the new 10 port Raptor, and the 8 port LSi is still available. The Raptor has a smooth power curve, whereas the LSi is a bit more abrupt. I'm not sure if National is going to pick up the 2002 engines or not. I talk to the guys out there almost daily, and they haven't said much on the matter. I don't really feel they are my competition however, as they have a much higher volume, something that I simply can not compete with.

[baileym]

I just wanted to back up what you said about the life of the motors. A lot of the guys I run with can run the same piston and sleeve for 10 gallons no problem. The record for our race series is around 18 gallons. The con-rod finally snapped, and he just retired the motor. It had done it's duty.

[TalleyRacing]

Thanks for the reiteration. I still need to contact the US distributor to find out how often to change the rod. I'm figuring around 8 gallons, then again when the time comes for a new p/s.

[Tony DeJesus]

Hi TalleyRacing,

Can you send me some info on the CMB engines as well.

Thanks,
T.D.

[TalleyRacing]

Sure can. If you'll email me at spt1978@outdrs.net I'll fill you in tomorrow. I'm about to go to bed for the night.

[baileym]

Just so everyone knows, I will be off the net for the next couple of days. I am moving from Germany back to the states(Seattle), so I won't be online again until sometime around Tuesday or Wednesday.

[King]

I am having problem with my RB C4. I was running 30%nitro with 18% oil and I just started using Trinity Plantium 30% nitro fuel and now it runs like a dog. It doesn't have the bottem end like it had before and it doesn't top out like it did before,hell it doen't even sound like it did when I was using the fuel with more oil. I thought that it would go faster with less oil because it was still a little on the rich side before I switched to the trinity fuel. I thought that with using less oil I would be in the ball park with getting it tuned for racing. Can you guys give me any suggestions?:( :confused:

[DR.GT]

King:

I'd try some different plugs (hotter and colder).

:)

[TalleyRacing]

King, when switching from one brand of fuel to another, or different oil or nitro contents, you have to go through an abreviated break in procedure. Richen up the low and top end needles and let it set on the stand at idle for a tank, then run one tank on the track at the same setting, 3rd tank, start dialing it in. Once you get it dialed in, the 10% oil content found in platinum, you should notice that it runs cooler with more power than the 18% content of you previous fuel. Also, try a new plug. One thing to keep in mind with big blocks is they tend to run hotter than small blocks, so a medium plug is sufficient in cool weather, and a cold plug works best in hot weather.

[adim_x]

hey there guys, i have been following your posts for a while, i just got my new xr, and have it almost completed, i purchased two airtronics servos one 357 and one 358, which one should be used for throttle, which one for brakes, thanks for having a great forum

[jasonrcfreak]

Well, the same servo you use for the throttle is gonna be used for the brakes!!! :D Use the 94358 for the steering, the 94357 for the Throttle/brakes.

[adim_x]

hey sorry i didnt realize my typo, there, for some reason i thought it was the other way around(servos) iput the 357 for steering, and 358 for throttle, thanks for replying so fast, do u like your mugen

[jasonrcfreak]

well, the 358 has more torque, so you'd typically use it for your steering servo. I've got an RR that I've hopped up quite a bit. I like it a lot. It's very durable. I've beaten the crap out of it and haven't broken a thing! :D yet!

[adim_x]

more questions, i have a rb ws7 motor, and i was wondering what pipe to get, i was thinking about a team omega in-line pipe(they are made by team picco), they are new horizon hobby is supposed to get them soon, i work at a hobby store and can get a great deal on them, neither horizon or great planes(whom are our distributors) really have a whole lot of selection of good tuned pipes. i think they retail for around 100, i will get it at cost which is like 60 bucks, the mark up on stuff is ridiculous

[TalleyRacing]

The WS7 typically runs best with an 063 Nova/Rex/RB pipe. Good all around pipe, the 053 is better for low end, and the 086 is best for top end. Picco pipes work best for Piccos, Nova based pipes work best for Nova based engine such as RB, Nova, Top and Rex.

[King]

DR.GT I'm using mc 9 plugs.

TalleyRacing. I didn't think I would have to do a breakin again because I didn't change the nitro % just the oil %. I'm also using another head shim that RB says to use when running 30% nitro.:cool:

[jasonrcfreak]

Adim_x-
I also have an RB WS7. I run the Rex pipe that Talley is speaking of. It really makes that WS7 sing like a Singer sewing machine! :D

[adim_x]

are pipes standardized such as, 063, being a size, or type of pipe, or is that what nova calls them, i am also having trouble setting my linkages on my throttle brake servo, it is a 357, do they normally get warm, if anyone has a pic of their linkages it would be greatly appreciated, or some help or advice

[adim_x]

do u know if horizon or great planes carry those

[adim_x]

do you know the part number, i found this pipe


*TOP REX OFF-ROAD PIPE/MANIFOLD:.21
by MUGEN SEIKI USA [MUGNOV52105]
will it work, or are paris pipes ok


PARIS HI-TORQUE PIPE:.21
by PARIS RACING PRODUCTS [PCOAL2000]

[King]

Go with the Rb pipes I got the 63 and the 86. I run the 63 on my C4 and it rips! Those are the two that I would suggest.:D :D

[TalleyRacing]

Fuel
Any time you switch brands, nitro, or oil content, you need to do an abreviated break in. Engines go through a type of hysterisis I believe is the word, if not given a chance to become acustomed to a new fuel.

Head Shims
.21 engines are designed to use 30% nitro, no reason to add a shim, unless you just want to get a bit more life out of it by maybe a half gallon.


Pipes
I've never run a Paris pipe on a Nova based engine, so I really couldn't tell you if a Paris pipe works or not. The best pipe for the RB WS7/S7/CS are the 063, any pipe the has the last 2 numbers of 63 are the proper pipe. Novarossi makes all Nova, Top, Rex, RB engines and pipes. Sigma Tading imports the RB stuff, Paris imports the Nova stuff, Mugen imports the Rex and JP stuff, I don't know who the importer of the Top stuff is now, it's changed in the last few months. As far as running a Paris 069 on a Nova based engine, I've never tried it, or known anyone that has. I've run the 063 on a Picco and it ran well, but never the other way around. The order of numerical ratings and what the pipe is designed for are as follows concerning the Nova line of engines...053 Low End, 063 Mid Range, 086 Top End. The C4 and C5 seem to like the 086 best, and the 053 and 063 work best on the short stroke engines like the WS7/S7 and CS. Hope that helps everyone out in their ventures for more power.

[BuggyBoy]

TalleyRacing .21 engines are not designed to run 30%. most of them are for 20% if you run 30% you should add a shim.(check with your engine manufacture about it first i talked w/ Rody about it on the RB engines.

i normaly run the 086 and 63 pipes. depends if i want top or bottom end. ( i have a WS7)

one peice polished pipes are nice.


been a while since ive been here !! been busy latley

whats up jason and everybody else :)

p.s. i normaly go to ace hobbies or national rc for 1/8th scale r/c stuff they have pretty much everything youd need.

[TalleyRacing]

Next time you call National ask Bill, Raygun or Richie what % of nitro most 21s are designed for.

[BuggyBoy]

uhh i dont give a dang what they say :) i trust the worlds best engine tuner over bill and richie sorry.

lol i think Rody would know what hes talking about :)
and the WS7 is one that you most deff should add a .1 shim if you run 30%

[TalleyRacing]

The info given to me, by them, namingly Regan was direct from Steve Odonnell. Having run one of Rody's $450 modified WS7s, then having the same work done to it the Steve does, I am not impressed with Rody.

[BuggyBoy]

wow you have no idea what your talking about.....

and actually it depends what sea level your at to add a shim or not to the closer you are to sea level the more you would want to add a shim if you at like lets say a 5500' feet over sea level you wouldnt need to add a shim.

just check your glowplug often you will notice if you need to add a shim or not.

[TalleyRacing]

What do you mean I have no idea what I'm talking about?

[adim_x]

the pipe i am talking about, is an omega inline 069, is it is made my team picco, but i dont think it is picco specific, they have them at horizon hobby, i really appreciate all the info, i am just trying to find something for my rb that is available through great planes, or horizon hobby, so i can order it tomorrow, and pay my shop back later, im just impatient, and dont wanna save my money for a rb pipe, i wanna drive my car

[BuggyBoy]

i know how you feel.. ive been waiting 3 months for a servo.

trust me tho its better to wait and get better :) i have been lol i didnt feel like ordering another servo so i just waited. hopefully it comes tomarow. still gotta do alot of stuff on my car tho.

[adim_x]

i hate not having enough cash to finish my car, but i gotta eat and be ably to pay bills. I have been building it for two weeks, not straight just off and on. i had to download a manual for my radio, so i could get my servos set up correctly, i dont know how i lost the damn thing, im a packrat and keep everything. why have u had to wait three mos, for your servo

[BuggyBoy]

Cause they were on backorder
Damn people over in Japan are slow : )

i run all JR the 8550 is a very popular servo. and there isnt to much competition around here w/ racing so i just wait.
i wana get my car done for this weekend tho
hasent been ran in a while live in wisconsin alot of crap weather :)
forgot when i last drove it october or november or something.

[adim_x]

so are they sending you a replacement, or gears , or are u buying a new one, that sucks that it is taking so long, horizon hobby has them in stock, i am working on becoming a dealer for rb, i hope we get approved, so i can order some kicka$$ stuff at cost

[BuggyBoy]

I bought a new one.

they just got them in like err thursday/friday i think. been waiting since febuary-march sometime

that rb pitbox looks nice. get me one @ cost :)

[King]

So what should I do. Run a break in again?

[TalleyRacing]

It can't hurt.

[gtwolfpack]

This is a question to BaileyM, You posted a tip regarding replacement of XR diff gears with the ones used for EB4S2 in this thread..Could you please post the part numbers for EB4S2 one and anything I need to know to do the replacement? Thanx In Advance..

[DLF]

gtwolfpack, here's the part number: PD0609
It's Thunder Tiger parts. The bag has the gears, o-rings and pins. I got the number from him as well but have not yet used them. I don't think there's anything else you need to know though. They appear to me to be direct replacments.

Dana F

[CurtF]

Originally posted by gbfireman

Now for my I'm an old man schtick... I think that racers today are spoiled, when I started racing 1/8 scale, the Kyosho Burns, Pirate M1 and OFNA HODR and Tempest were state of the art. The OS RF was the hot ticket... my how times have changed

gb,
I know what you're saying. I was competing against M1's, Athletes, HODR's, with a Burns and I was running an EX-B... Now get this, for throttle and steering servo's I was running Futaba S148's!! lol.. Man, it took all day for the sticking thing to turn, but it was a blast...

Back then you had a ton of choices on motors, O.S and O.S.. And when the RX-B came out, the horsepower was unbelievable..lol...

All this history, and I'm only 20!!

[diesel757]

gtwolfpack it may be a while before baileym can reply, he's in the proccess of moving back to the states from europe. try the seach option?:D

[adim_x]

hey there guys, i am ordering a new mugen xr, for my dad tomorrow, he is getting a os v01, .21 engine and i was wandering what pipe he should get, if any of you have any suggestions, i could use the help. I just ran my new xr today for the first time, my ws7 fired right up after 7 mos of not running, the carb was almost set correctly, i love rb motors

[BuggyBoy]

well i dont run OS but i think the best pipes are the 086 and 063 one peice RB/novarossi pipes. dont know which one you would want tho up to him if he wants more top or bottom end

[DR.GT]

Adim_x:

Since the V01 is quite torquey (sp?) I would suggest a 86 to gain some top end. I like it more than the 63 because I don't need the bottom end.

On a flowing track the 86, on tight twisty sometimes the 63.

:)

[adim_x]

i appreciate the response, i am thinking of buying one of those pipes for my ws7, but i wasnt sure, if the same pipe would be good for the os, looks like im gonna have to order 2 of them, i have another question, i am going to purchase an m8 tomorrow, do u think, the limited edition is worth it, is the blue light the only, difference, if it is i think it would eat more batteries, also what is a module, they come with the radio, 75mhz, or 27, will i need tx crystals, im gonna buy a xxl synthesized receiver, so i know i dont need rx crystals, thanks

[BuggyBoy]

well for your WS7 you will probably want the 063 pipe. i have both mostly run the 63 tho.

i didnt like the M8 to much. i chose the R-1 over it the R-1 is alot nicer. and it just felt better. i built my own battery packs for it and itll last a whole day w/o charging.

[adim_x]

hey there, could u go into more detail about why you did not like the m8, and why u really like your r-1, also what is a module, i really appreciate the help, the reason i havent really considered the ri is because it is very expensive, i work at a hobby store, and i get my stuff at cost(i know everyone would probably hate me for that deal) but i work 25 hrs a week there repairng crappy rtr, for free, just so i can order at cost(and get 40 bucks credit a week, i guess my services arent free. the r-1 is still like 330 from horizon at cost, and i think that is only the fm version, while the m8 is around 200

p.s rtr are great ideas, but after i have worked on some of these traxxas's, and duratrax vehicles, i would not recommend them to anyone, even a beginner, i change spur gears for 16 yr old kids, i even show them how, and there back a week later wanting it done, i do it gracioulsy cuz i want to keep people happy with rc, but some people need to know how there cars work.


sorry im just kind a venting, im bored, not much else to do, too late and dark to fire up the xr

[BuggyBoy]

the R-1 just felt better in my hands and id rather have the LCD on the front then on the top i like to drive and not look at what my remote is doing i wouldnt like to have that there would screw up my concentration. and the R-1 just has ever feature you could imagine and is great on batteries for what it all has.

module is like PCM etc .

[BuggyBoy]

and also JR is a very very good brand probably one of the best in raidos for anything. i like to stick with good stuff cost dont really matter much to me on that kind of stuff tho i get what i like rite away so i dont spend it later on and lose money by buying something i don tlike and selling it heh.

but im thinking about selling my XR w/ everything and all my radio stuff with it and getting a T-maxx the tracks around here suck.

[adim_x]

thats too bad your tracks suck, we are going to start building our track this week, the owner is trying to locate a specific kind of dirt, called river clay. i dunno who to call about it, i dont think dirt is in our yellow pages, i drove my xr for the first time today, i had a gs storm, with my ws7 in it, there is a huge difference between these two cars, my mugen just handles the power better. I hope our track turns out good, if it doesnt its still a place to race, the closet track right now is about 2 hrs away, its indoors, and cant really handle a big car, lots of electric xxxt, xxx drivers there, i had electric, i just didnt care for it, i can never be happy with what i got, i always want something bigger and better, i am so excited because i am going to visit my parents this weekend and my dad and i are going to go race, by the way i currently have a jr xr3 radio, nice radio, just want something else, its that whole im not happy becuase i know theres a better radio thing, plus i need to have the top of the line stuff, since i work at the store, when we start racing, people will see what i have and wil want me to sell the same stuff to them, so our store can make money, weird ideals, but in the long run i will make more money becuase people will want the best stuff after seeing it run, i see it everytime i go to a track

[BuggyBoy]

yeah ive got about $6,000 invested in everything and i guess they are building a new track close to me so im gonna see what that ones all about before it all goes i guess its gonna be the best biggest track in wisconsin @ dirt heaven

[adim_x]

i hope that track works out for you, i had a tmaxx last summer, it was pretty cool, but i get bored really easy just beatin cars around, i kind of like to be competitive, or maybe just be at a track and have that environment around me, there currently arent a whole lot of people around me that have car, most dont know our shop exists, we are working on advertising. the only people that come around with cars, just want me to fix them, so they can go back home and drive it into a mailbox post. and im sure once a track gets built they will come, until then its just solo driving, i go to school in souther indiana, my parent live 4 hrs north, and that is where most of my rc buddies are

[BuggyBoy]

thats cool sounds like you will have fun with your new track.
(then you can watch all them guys hit the 2x4s or whatever you use for dividers) ROFL :)

[Lil-Boy]

Hsa anybody notice if the pin on the end of the drive shaft (one that goes into the diff) slides in or out. Yesterday I noticed that one of them was out only on one side.
thank you

[BuggyBoy]

you talking about on the differentual or from the center diff to rear diff ?

[Lil-Boy]

from the rear and front diffs to the wheels

[DLF]

Yea...I've had a few do that. So far, I've just knocked them back into place. I'm just keeping my eye on them.

Dana F

[Shawn_S]

I was thinking of doing a hop-up part conversion to my RR. Here what I thought of so far:

Firioni(sp.?) chassis
G1 Industries Front and Rear Chassis supports

I know I need the center universals, can someone give a part number for them?

Also what else would I have overlooked? Thanks
Shawn

[CurtF]

BuggyBoy,
What tracks do you usually go to? I'm in Madison, so obviously I race at MARCCA.. Where abouts are you located? We usually have 2 full heats of 1/8th now..

Also, Adim_X,
Are there any good 1/8th tracks around Indy or anywhere in Indiana for that matter?

I live in Madison, but go to school at Purdue, so I've got to find a track down there, or my Mugen sits dormant for 9 months of the year...

[adim_x]

hey there, there is a new track in beechgrove, which i guess is part of indianapolis, go to teamtrinity.com forums, and look up indianapolis, im sure u could find out more info there, also there is a track call hardestys, that is in hamlet indiana, i think it may be bout 2 hrs from lafayette, my dad and i raced there last summer good owner nice track, look in rc car action for the track listing

[adim_x]

i just got my new m8 limited radio, this thing has a ton of stuff, i dont think i will ever learn the functions, my old jr xr3 had lots of functions, for me, this m8 quadruples those functions, any of you guys out there have any special m8 tips a newbie should know, i use it with 357,358 servos, xxl synthesized receiver, mugen xr, rb ws7, thanks

[Shawn_S]

Originally posted by adim_x
any of you guys out there have any special m8 tips a newbie should know, i use it with 357,358 servos, xxl synthesized receiver, mugen xr, rb ws7, thanks

just be sure to keep an eye on the voltage, esp. before 60-min A-main cuz the BIG screen and lights just kill the battery power.

Also don't tune the features without knowing what they are. And KEEP THE BRAKE CLIP ON! lol Your thump is very prone to adjusting it w/o your attention.

Hoped it helped.

BTW I just have "Standard :rolleyes: " M8. How do you turn on the ALB? I can see ALB on the screen under a light, but have been able to find a way to turn it on.

[adim_x]

i am not sure how to turn on the abl function, i have yet to use mine, and i just packed the jeep all up, going on a journey tonight so i can race tomorrow, i set up my radio with just the things i knew, so i wouldnt fry my servos(epa adjustments, trims and so fortth), i think i will try to get some fellow racers to help explain some of the options on that thing, i got some really nice monster brand nimh cells from circuit city for my radio, they are 1800 mah apeice, i bought them for stuff around the house, but i think they will be great in my radio, i guess it will just take some time and some racing to learn it, i really like the feel of it though, my old radio, was rather nice, but i work at a hobby shop, and i am trying to use the newest gear so people will see it, and wanna buy it, from us. thanks for the advice, i figured that thing would be a battery eating monster

[speedydave]

I was messing with someone's special edition M8 the other day, and the ALB is on the right hand side, but does't have a printed section for it(it's at the end of a row, and when scrolling through, on the LCD part, when you get there, it will say ALB). From there, you can adjust it to be on or off...that's all I know, because I have a Futaba 3PDF:D

Also guys, how much do you really think you could make a nice, decent setup for? I don't need absolute top of the line stuff, though I don't want bottom of the line crap either. I don't need the most powerful engine...ie I'd be happy with the power of an RB S7, though the WS7 is nice, too...or an OS V01b, hehe...I want a 1/8 scaler, but they are just too expensive for me right now. I can never get my GT to hook up on our outdoor track, so I kinda want to run 1/8 outdoors and 1/10 indoors, where the thing has TOO MUCH traction, and traction rolls in the berm...the only thing stopping me is cost, because I'm 14, and now i will have a temporary summer job for 5 weeks, and though I won't get enough money to buy everything for the car, my birthday is at the end of september, and I'm willing to wait until next outdoor season starts up to run this car. I've driven a couple XR's, one with an Ofna/Picco Comp engine(blue head..not the best, not the worst engine), and one with an OS V01b(might have been an RZ-V99b though)...I loved driving them...any thoughts? BTW, our indoor track isn't really IN DOORS...it's just covered so we don't get rained on, but has no walls, so it gets plenty of ventilation for nitros to run. Thanks!

[adim_x]

hey, i dont think there is a cheap mugen set up, i got an xr, two airtronics 357, 358 servos, and a ws7 motor, and im at a grand there, not to mention starter box, and radio, plus supplies to drive it. i'm sure you could go cheaper, but i wanted to be competitive, and i dont consider the prices outlandish, i would recommend playing with ya got, and save your money

[speedydave]

Well I would only get the 358 for steering, and something cheaper for throttle(737 or 755). I'm talking cheap like an XR with those servos I said and a S7 Europa, vs a kanai 7.5, 357 and 358, and an OS V01b, etc etc...ur over a grand with the car and engine there!

[adim_x]

hey there, your darn near close to a grand with just a mugen, and tb motor, i work at a hobby store, and get my stuff at cost, im still over a grand in the car for the set up i have, but definetly get a 358 steering servo, they make the car so much easier drive, if that can be said, the torque of that servo is unreal. this is the first time i have gone and bought a real good servo, and it is so worth it for steering,
mugen xr $460
servos X2 $87
receiver pack $20
rb motor $289(bought last year)
supercheap dynamite inline exhaust 29.99(plan on buying rb inline exhaust when i recover, from my recent splurge of cash




thats at at 972 bucks right there, plus a radio system and starter box, so i have an additional 400 bucks in the car also, plus some finishing supplies like paint, 10 bucks, plus about 100 bucks worth of spare parts, for the all impending smacks with wall, while im behind the wheel










4

[speedydave]

Well, you do have a point, but the RB S7 is only $210, and I don't need the WS7...not worth the extra $$ IMO, seeing as how our track is usually a little too loose to really lay down all the power anyways. Might as well be able to use all the power I've got, ya know? It's like that with my GT and it's CV engine. Not the most powerful, but I can use all the power I have(I usually have too much power!). Anyways...I know someone who is willing to sell me his XR, which is 3 months old, and has been taken very good care of, and has new bearings, a set of Big Bore shocks, 3 sets of aluminum clutch shoes, the 3 degree rear blocks, plus some other stuff, and 3 painted bodies, 4 sets of tires(one worn out for break in and street running, 2 decent sets, and one brand new set). Plus, I will get a brand new header, and a used pipe(still in good condition), and an 1100 mah nimh receiver pack...all for $360 I think it was...I'm seriously considering it, but he's in SoCal, I'm in NorCal, and I want to see the car in person first...and I don't have the money right now. Then, add the RB S7($210), servos(assume $180 for the 2...), and I have a receiver, so I'd just need a starter box, which would be $115 at tower...that adds up to $865...pretty darn good if a ask me! :D

[adim_x]

i must say that would be a sweet deal for you speedydave, even if the car could turn out to be a little rough it wouldnt take much to make it seem brand new to you, a nice tear down and cleaning ya know. I just drove my xr on the track for the first time today, it was so smooth, i havent really raced august last year, didnt race today though, but got about 6 tanks through, played around with some guys who had 7.5s, they were a little quicker, but they were used to the track. i could clear all the jumps, without having to be going really fast, just roll up to the triples and a good blip on the throttle and i was skying. its so awesome to drive on an track, i was rather impressed with my car, and the stock mugen setup.

[Tony DeJesus]

Hi,

I just got my RB S7 Europa for my XR and I was wondering if I could use 20% fuel for it? Also what is a good running temp for it?

Thanks,
T.D.

[adim_x]

hello there, i am currently using traxxas top fuel 20 percent, my motor runs great, i am gettin ready to buy a higher nitro content mayb some 25 or 30, but i dont think you will have any problems with your fuel, i run my motor around 220, i think that is pretty conservative, it runs good, i got a rb ws7, hope that helps a little, im not very experienced, but i dont see how 20 percent could hurt

[jasonrcfreak]

Tony-
20% should work just fine. I run 20% O'Donnell and I've never had any trouble with it

Adim-remember, if you go to a higher %, you may wanna add another shim below the head to increase the clearance. According to an article by "Professor" Pond :D in RC Nitro Magazine, "The extra fuel introduced into the combustion chamber increases compression by adding non-compressible matter; this also increases cylinder pressure during the combustion process, which may cause detonation. Detonation occurs when the fuel explodes instead of burning, and that can cause internal engine damage." Those are the wise words of Steve Pond. :D Just though I'd pass that along to ya.

Also, I didn't have good luck with Traxxas fuel. You might wanna give O'Donnell or Blue Thunder a try.

[adim_x]

i have an rb ws7 motor, that has never had a higher nitro content than 20 percent in it, you still think i would need a head shim, i thought these motors were designed for a higher content, such as 25 or 30 percent, if i need to add though, its no big deal because i dont want to damage that thing, it was too expensive

[jasonrcfreak]

Adim-
If the engine was broken in with 20%, and you're going to 25 or 30%, you'll probably wanna go ahead and add a shim. Don't quote me on that though!!

Calling Steve Pond!!
Calling Steve Pond!! :D

[Tony DeJesus]

I finaly got to try out my XR and I love it. The only problem I had was that every time I tried to turn in the street one of my rear weels (depending on which way I turned) kept on lifting of the ground. I am running the exact same setup given in the manuel. Will removing or switching the rear sway-bar help?
Also both of the rear hing pins lost one of there E-clips and started to come loose. Has that happened to anyone? I am going to try and put a set screw and see if that will help.


Here ar the specs for my buggy:

Model: Mugen MBX4 XR
Engine: RB S7 Europa
Radio: M8 Limeted Edition
Receiver: Novak XXtra
Servos: Hitec HS645 MG (st) JR Z270 (th)
Fuel: Odonel 20%
Tires: Pro-Line Crime Fighters
Diff Oils: Stock
Shock Oils: Stock


Thanks,
T.D.

[Shawn_S]

Tony, that's normal for the inside rear wheel to lift in a turn on the street. There's really nothing you can do to stop it, other then maybe slamming it and put 100wt in the shocks, but that would take away the real purpose of what the buggy was suppose to do, run off-road.

BTW what tires are you using on the street? You said Crime-Fighters previously, but wouldn't they be worn to hell already?

[jasonrcfreak]

I hope he's not running his new crimefighters on the street!!! :D

[DLF]

Has anyone tried the Pro-line 9011-01 multi spike tires? If so, am I understanding correctly that these tires do not come with foam inserts? I don't want to order them and then can't use them to wait for inserts. Thanks.

Dana F

[adim_x]

i dont know anything about those multi pin tires. but i just got some new proline cell blocks today, they dont look like they would last very long, they have the tread of some losi electric tires, like i had on my xxx, any body hear ran cell blocks

[Tony DeJesus]

I need some help with my shocks. After I ran my XR for fourth time I decided to check the rideheight and when I pushed it down the shocks hardly rebounded leaving me with a seriously low-riding buggy. Has this happened to anyone? What should I do?


Thanks,
T.D.

[adim_x]

hey tony, did you put preload spacers on the shocks, those little plastic clips that came with your kit, i think you want the universals parallel with the ground, so drop your front suspension from six in, the air then add the appropriate amount of spacers, then do the rear

[Tony DeJesus]

Yeah I have the clips on and the rideheight was great until about the fourth tank but now no matter how many clips I put the shocks just won't rebound back to thier normal position.

[adim_x]

i guess the only answer than, would be to take them apart, and rebuild them, or make sure there is still fluid in them, did you bleed them while you where building them, there could have been large air pockets, slowly move the piston up and down while you fill them to bleed the air out, hope that helps

[speedydave]

I assume the Mugen shocks have bladders in the caps? I've got the most experience building AE shocks, and some experience with Losi and Traxxas shocks. Would Mugen shocks bleed most like the Traxxas shocks? I want this buggy so bad now....

Another thing, how much life do you guys usually get out of your tires? Right now, with M3's, I get about 2 race days out of my GT's tires, and I'm sick of it(especially that it's still not really hooked up). This is one of th emany reasons I want the XR(or any 1/8, for that matter...but the XR is the best ;) ). How much life do you think i'd get out of M2 tires with the XR and, say, an OS V01b(considering the OS's power)?? I either go 1/8, or T-Maxx and race the T-Maxx, and frankly, I'd rather have the 1/8 right now...Thanks! :)

[BuggyBoy]

well proline crimefiters on a road will last 5 minutes if your lucky :) lol

[speedydave]

Uhh, I meant offroad...at a TRACK...here's the track I race at:

http://www.nepthys.com/deltarc/i/tracks/2002_offroad_out_lg.jpg