Mugen MBX-4, XR, RR Forum v1.0

[Tony DeJesus]

Does anyone know of a good sight to get set-ups from?

[pimpnwilly]

oops, didnt realize you were talking about the r-1, i guess personal preferance, i have used both and like the m8. but anyway, i got the m8 with the 200 oz. servos i believe, then bought the 2 125 oz. servos because the 200's seemed like overkill, but hey, like i said, im new to this stuff, thats why im here. :D

[adim_x]

the m8 is a great radio, 200oz servos i dont think are overkill, i think the radio is just a matter of opinion, what kind of lawsuit was it, that you won 90 grand, i think your only overkill is with all those motors, i accept donations, just kiddin but can i get a five spot

[adim_x]

hey buggy boy, i spoke with some dude at national rc, and he said that you didnt have to add a shim on the ws7 to run 30% also on the os v01 he said it wasnt needed, this is all too confusing i dont want to fry my motor

[pimpnwilly]

It was a lawsuit against the company i used to work for, After attorney fees and court costs, i only ended up with about 54k$. anyway, the lawsuit was because of an accident at work, were I injured my neck, and knee (had to have a plastic knee cap put in), anyway, a 15 ton hoist in the shop had not been up to inspection, and it broke resulting in a huge cold-header machine falling and getting me. lucky i lived !!! but hey, i walked away with 54000$, and my hospital bills payed, they wanted to settle outside of court for 20000, and pay my bills HA.

And about the motors, I have heard so much good things about them, the c4 and 7 i mean, that i wanted to try them both for myself. the picco is just for me to practice 1/8 with.

[adim_x]

hey well i am glad you are ok, i think in indiana there is some kind of thing were you cant sue you employer, my friend who works at subaru in lafayette indiana got his finger smashed off because the safetey on the jig was not working properly, but there were 2 maintanence reports for it before the accident, he got a couple grand for it, but still kept his job, i guess making 50 grand a year he could live with what happened, but i wouldnt have been so easily taken like that. i cant really give you any setup advice, i am a newbie, but i can say if you got some money get a hudy set up board, so you can really align everything, they are available at ace hardware hobbies, it would probably cost 150 dollars to get all the stuff you need, but they are worth it

[BuggyBoy]

Originally posted by adim_x
hey buggy boy, i spoke with some dude at national rc, and he said that you didnt have to add a shim on the ws7 to run 30% also on the os v01 he said it wasnt needed, this is all too confusing i dont want to fry my motor




yeah well hes wrong. i talked to Rody about it on a different forum. and if you say hes wrong about a RB concepts engine well you must be smoking something REALLY hardcore lol.

[BuggyBoy]

always always alwyas ALWAYS talk to a professional tuner or a guy whos known for Tuning your engine like the WS7 and all them Rody tune. them are the ones you ask about your motors not who you buy them from.

[pimpnwilly]

i want some of that really hardcore stuff :rolleyes:

[pimpnwilly]

hey buggy boy, were do i get these spacers? will my local LHS be able to get them? theres quite a few around, so i imagine someone should be able to huh?

[adim_x]

at what point in my post did i say rody was wrong, if i was smoking something really hardcore, i would have found more entertainment elsewhere, than here in this forum, either way i am just trying to figure this out, you dont have to jump my arse because i asked a question, i dont even know who rody is, have a good one guys time to work

[TalleyRacing]

Here we go with the head shim thing again. My advice, trust the guys at National. They all run Steve Odonnell modified RB engines. Regan is probably the best engine tuner in the country, he learned alot from Ron Paris, rest his soul. Ron never added a head shim to run 30%, Steve doesn't, Regan doesn't. Regan being the team manager for Team Kyosho USA, I think I'd trust his advice. Basically, all the pros get stuff from NRC at times, because they race with the pros, and have done so for years. Rody also RB/Rody also tries to tell people that none of their engine failures are RBs fault, period. Even when they have had admitted problems during manufactoring. Thefore, he ain't as sharp as you think he is. I ran a "Rody Roem Team Modified WS7" far 2 races last year, then did my own mod work to it, and it ran like it should have after I worked on it. All that he did was put the "special black coating" on the crank, and engrave a number on the side of the motor mount flange, and crank up the price to $450. End of subject, beat me up if you'd like, but, I'm sticking to my guns.

[pimpnwilly]

aint no beatings coming from me. how do i get ahold of these guys, i talked to a guy at one of my lhs's and he said the same. he races 1/8 with a c4 and 30%, and he did not have to add a shim, hey, i bought 2 c4's so if i blow one, i'll know what to do on the second, right. :D anyway, thanks for the info, it is greatly appreciated.. oh yeah, i noticed a post a couple back asking for a site with good set-ups, i am interested too.

[diesel757]

talley racing, I agree with you 100%. remember one thing Rody is a businessman first. If I owned a company that manufactured screwdrivers and you asked me if you could use it to pry some thing loose, then I would same no use a pry bar. that way it covers my ass if you break it or become injured.

by the way Talleyracing did you come down to drcw a couple of months ago for their big race?

[TalleyRacing]

No, didn't make it down. I thought I'd get to do some traveling this year, but the USAF don't pay enough with only 2 years in. Been running at JR's in Waldorf, and Pasadena up by Baltimore. We had 62 entries today at Pasadena, for a club race. Now if I could have just been in my groove today, I'd have been happy, but no such luck. First time in I don't know how long, the 1-14 all ran 10 laps in qualifying, and lucky me, I was 12. Guess that's what I get for getting a new Tx, and engine, plus taking 3 weeks off from racing.

[db_racing]

I just bought a used mbx xr and got three sets of springs with it.
grey, white and blue. Which ones are the soft, med and stiffer?
I love this thing, I won my first race with it sunday after qualin 5th out of 7. It had the grey springs on it but looked to be bottoming pretty easily on the uphill jump, 35wt oil is what was in it I was told. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks db

[TalleyRacing]

Grey is stiff, Blue is medium, White is soft. Try running 53 in the front and 30 in the rear. That a pretty standard setup. Make sure your ride height it set correct. Arms should be level front and back. Also, be sure your travel limiters are set on the compression side, to keep the shocks from bottoming out. Basically, set the stops so the when the arms touch the chassis, they can go no further. Otherwise you will start breaking shock shafts.

[Vmax911]

Hey guys, I'm thinking about picking up an XR Works buggy. The only concern I have is that there is no support rod from the front shock tower/differential to the main chassis (there is one to the center diff though). Does the car have any flex to it (from shock tower to shock tower), or does the aluminum center diff mount take care of that?

[BuggyBoy]

all you need is Big Bore shocks G1 mounts (i suggest just buying all of them) and you will have a full blown race machine :)

[adim_x]

i just broke in my new os vo1 yesterday, that motor is sweet, it idles for ever has tons of torque, the powerband was real smooth. i ran on a track for the first time with my big bore shocks, i think they really helped smooth it out over the rough stuff, too all the people i asked questions, thanks, my car runs great,my set ups not perfect, but pretty good. i got a little push going through turns, does anybody have any ideas (i know letting off the throttle helps) i got a lead finger, but i though maybe i could tweak my suspension of something else to help it a little

[TalleyRacing]

The top mounted braces, such as the G1 make the car to stiff, and overwork the suspension. Get a set of braces like the Fioroni braces. The front meing top mounted is not an issue. But in the rear, you want a little flex. Trust me, the car will drive much better with the diff house to chassis brace instead of the diff housing to center diff brace.

[DLF]

Talley, are you saying the Fioroni rear brace goes from the diff housing to the chassis like the orginal one? If I am understanding you correctly, you are saying exaclty what I have said for a long time...that being that SOME flex between the rear and the center is actually a good thing.

Dana F

[TalleyRacing]

Yes. The Fioroni mounts to the chassis. I race with a guy that started making a top mount brace for the 7.5, and sold a bunch of them, even a few of the Pros bought some to test. They did their job of making the car stiff, but they make it to stiff, and guys were breaking stuff in the rear end that they previously had not broken. Some flex is good, no flex is bad. Stick to the standard geometry, but get a set of solid braces, like the Fioroni or Hardcore versions.

[BuggyBoy]

if you think that makes it to stiff. then tell me why everysingle Racer on the Mugen team uses the braces that all go to the Center diff mount.


Trust me the G1s are the best way to go the Fioroni ones you will never beable to get a hold of them. and Hardcore dont even make Braces for the Mugen.

[TalleyRacing]

Oh, I think I can get the Fioroni braces without a problem. It's a matter of knowing who to go too. And you're wrong about "all" the team drivers using the G1 brace or a top mount brace. Jason "PJ" Ashton is their fastest driver, and he runs stock geometry. I'm starting to wonder if you really have a Mugen or not, and if you do, I'm thinking you are one of them backyard racers that thinks he's bad because he can beat a Tmaxx and a GT. Or if you do truely race, you're one of them also-rans.

[BuggyBoy]

uhh ive talked to every single Fioroni Dealer in the US and even one in germany none of them could get them.

and i talk to all the Racers in a Different forum and get all my setup tips from them.

So mr Talley Racing you can go to hell. god i hate this forum !!!!


GO TO STARTING GRID IF YOU WANA LEARN SOMETHING DONT BE AROUND THESE MORONS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[DLF]

Ya know, I don't usually stoop to the level of children, but how old are you Buggyboy? 4? Who cares if someone disagrees with you? Pro racers have a difference of opinioun just like the rest of us. My personal experience is that SOME flex is good. It allows some cushion to shock occuring to the chassis. The front section of the chassis doesn't require this flex since it doesn't get the brunt of downward force applied to the car.

As Talley has mentioned, I too have seen more parts break with a brace like that. The reason it may not be an issue with pros is because they KNOW how to drive and thus don't break as many parts.

I don't have the gift of great skill in driving like that.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

ive been driving R/C since i was about 7 years old. but im 18 now. i just get sick of every single person on this forum disagreeing with me when what i say is comming straight from the pros lol.

i have exelent driving skills. but this state just plain sucks for Tracks and dont feel liek going 3-4 hours every day to race heh. waiting for a Track to be built up in New franken wisconsin.

[TalleyRacing]

So who are you on Starting Grid. I am on there every day. So don't give me the crap about talking to all the pros. I've spent time on the phone with Kris Moore @ Mugen getting set up tips. I'm emailed Ashton countless times getting a decent set up.

I just got off the phone with Michael Glass @ GS, the Fioroni importer and distributor, and he said they have everything in stock. Like I said, it's about knowing who to call.

And concerning everyone badmouthing you on here, maybe it's your presentation. You do kinda have a one track mind, and present your opinions as they are to only one that matters. So you have been racing RC since you were 7, and? I've been racing everything under the sun since I was 8, and I'm 24 now, and? Big deal. It's about practicality of the matter.

[Vmax911]

Sorry to butt in, :) , but are these types of hop-ups available online? MY LHS is very lacking....

[db_racing]

Keep up the good work Talley, I value all of your advice and appreciate your quick replies. Buggyboy is just it, your just a boy so shut up and listen for a change, you will learn something. This is only my second year racing and can tell that most of these guys on here know what they're talkin about. Right now all I do is race..........organized races tuesday nights, saturdays and sundays, gotta travel sunday but its worth it. Gettin better every day, and starting to win. So keep the tips comin', This XR with a CMB rips!

[King]

What is a good setup for the front,center and rear diffs. I think I have 1000 front, 7000 center, and 3000 rear, also the track I race on is smooth with a lot of jumps and a monster set of doubles what should I run for shock oil. I have 30 up front not sure about the rear. I'm running big bores up front with blue springs and the stock shocks in the rear with the yellow springs. I have the rear big bores. I think the G1 braces work really well I just have a problem the 4ft doubles. Not enought room to get a good run on them to clear the with in one jump.Oh by the way I took out my torsens I need more pratice and they wern't helping any. I'm also getting ready for regionals the will be my first big race. I'm so nervous not sure how well I will do since I haven't been racing my buggy for that long. :) :)

[TalleyRacing]

db, I just call em as I see em, and try to be open minded.

A Team tip for the CMB guys. If you run a 13 tooth clutch bell, go up to a 14. The Raptor and LSi both make plenty of low end torque, and the extra tooth will give you more top end. I run the Mugen white shoes right now, with 2 holes drilled in them, and 1.0 springs. The CMB team guys are running white shoes with 3 holes, and 1.0 springs.

King, your diff setup is backwards. Run the 3000 in the front, run 1000 in the rear. The setup I run is 3000 front, 5000 center, and 50wt shock oil in the rear. The car tracks very well. Run your front with either 0 tow or 1 degree tow in. 30 or 35 wt oil in the front shocks, 30 or 25 in the rear. For clearing the doubles, be a bit smoother on the throttle. It sounds like you are getting exsesive tires spin. Torsens are ok, but most US track don't really warrant them. The G1 braces work well, I just never liked a super stiff car.

My XR is up for grabs. 3 sets of shocks, Fioroni chassis and unused stock chassis. 2 sets of tires, 4 bodies, and my backup engine, and OPS Torque, modified by T'n'T. $500 will get it shipped to your door. If anyone is interested, email me @ spt1978@outdrs.net. I'm going to Crono, but will still check in from time to time and answer any questions that might arise.

[speedydave]

(re-read message, decided it sounded too...i dunno, too something...)

[TalleyRacing]

Vmax, yes, you can get this stuff online. For the Fioroni stuff, try www.GeneralSilicones.com, for the G1 stuff, go to www.Nationalrc.com National also carries Fioroni stuff.

[TalleyRacing]

Oh, come one Dave. Free your mind. HEHE

[speedydave]

Well, I've heard it's a good buggy, but parts must be really hard to find...:( I'm saving up for an XR, and I almost have enough for everything but the engine, steering servo, and starter box...The Mugen truck looks sooo nice too...too bad I just got a GT about 4 months ago :(

[PCC]

A question about XR Works shocks.

Someone just gave me a set of XR Works shocks and, after I built them, I noticed that one of the rear shocks was longer than the other. Is this normal?

[TalleyRacing]

Is it the shock body, or the shock shaft. If it's the shaft itself, one of them is a front shaft.

Dave, parts aren't really hard to get at all. Another thing, I don't know if you're interested in a used car or not, but mine is up for grabs. Not a thing wrong with it, and it will have a good engine in it.

[NitroRacer10]

Just doing some online reading and came by this thread.......http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=84716

Now I come in here to read a bit...as I used to have a Mugen and like to see whats up...I read all tis stuff about buggyboy...well check out his 4 sell thread LMAO! WOW
:rolleyes:

[TalleyRacing]

Well, it doesn't hurt to dream. At least he added the head shims to it that Rody Roem told him to add to run 30% in the engines. I can just see the guys on the grid tearing him up for that one. To each his own I guess.

[King]

Talleyracing you say that parts are not hard to get...then why is Ace Hardware Hobbies out of the white wing,8x10 bearings 10 piece,reciver box,big bore shock shafts f/r, and big bore pistons(black not white). You also say that we can find the G1 braces on national rc's web site. I have been there more than one time and I haven't seen them any where. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :cool:

[TalleyRacing]

National has 99% of the stuff in stock. You just have to call them. I think however, that since they picked up Fioroni, they quit carrying the G1 stuff, and I think the guy may have quit making them for that matter.

[TalleyRacing]

If National doesn't have what you are after, call NitroHouse. They are the storefront for MD Planes, who is the primary distributor for Mugen.

[db_racing]

On those white shoes, do YOU drill the holes in them? If so what size? Does that make them more responsive. I have the 14t on it and seems to work fine. So National RC is the place to get my mugen parts? How do I know when I need a clutch replaced....just slipping too much? These shoes look mighty worn down but still hooks up ok. What are the tires of choice, the track is not blue groove completely, just in spots.....I've got these "diamond" brand pins that work great. Got a set of crime fighters too and these directional knobbys, no brand markings. They look like a saw blade. Can you tell I just bought this car and all the trimmings? Now I gotta find out what I have!!! Still won last sundays main regardless.

[BuggyBoy]

King Sorry but you dont have to talk smack on my thread like every other person.

[TalleyRacing]

I run both the white and black shoes with 1.0 mm Mugen springs. Both work great, the whites wear out faster, though. I usually run them when the track has better traction, and the blacks when it's a bit loamy. The whites grip better, and the blacks slip a bit more. As far as holes, I drill 3 1/8 mm or 3 3mm holes. The drill is the same size. And about the wear of the shoes, you just have to look at them, and see how they look. You'll notice when they slip. But as far as the white shoes, about one or 2 race days and they need to be replaced. The black shoes, I can't really say how long they run, because I put new shoes on every 2 weeks, just to keep everything fresh. If the 14 works, go with it. It keeps your engine from reving up so high, and it will live longer because of it. Plus, you get a bit more top end out of it. About the saw blade looking knobbies. They are Treadz/Cahmpion/GRP Grips. I've run them a bit, and liked them. As far as the direction they are pointed, a loamy track usually dictates the jagged edge be pointed forward, to grab the surface better, and a high bite surface lets you turn them around so they slip a little. Crime Fighters work well also. I'm one of the few guys in my area that is always testing different tires, and direction of the tire, to see what works best on a certain track. So far, my tire of choice is the Jammin Rippers. They are real rubber, unlike the Prolines, and seem to wear real well. They're a little soft to alot of guys, but being real rubber, they seem to wear alot better. And they work real well on most track surfaces.

[King]

Didn't mean to talk smack it's just that he said that it is easy to get mugen parts. When I placed my order they where out of certian parts and didn't know when they would get them in stock. I have regionals comming up in two weeks and I need those parts and others.

[TalleyRacing]

Ace is bad about not having stuff in stock. If you can't get it from National, call NitroHouse. They are a bit higher, but they usually have it.

[BuggyBoy]

also king the Setup i run is 7000 center 5000 front 3000 rear. and it works well

[TalleyRacing]

Don't take this as smack talk, because it's not in any sense of the word. By running 3000 in the rear, you are almost getting the same setup as running a torsen. You should never run anything higher than 1000 in the rear. That's part of how the car gets through the turns quickly, is when the rear tires spin more freely. Other than that, the diff setup you have is standard. 5k in the front, and 7k in the center was where I started, but I've backed down to 3k in the front, and 5k in the center. It definately makes the car turn better.

[BuggyBoy]

well thats good for you run what you want and you can stick behind me outa the turns.

[TalleyRacing]

Try and help a guy out, and that's the thanks I get. I see how it's gona be from now on. I guess that you never really listened to the pros that you talked to then, because not a one of them runs anything heavier than 1000 in the rear. Why? Because anything heavier will make the car not want to turn, and then when it does finally turn, you spin out. Guys such as your self are easy to pass. Just follow you for a lap or so, and let you know I can pass you at any time. Next thing you know, you case a jump, and I fly past you without even having to move your slow b u t t out of my way.

[diesel757]

King Sorry but you dont have to talk smack on my thread like every other person.

talley racing; you shouldn't talk to buggy boy like that, you know this is "his thread".LMAO haha

[BuggyBoy]

Diesel if you would learn how to read youd know im not talking about this thread.

[TalleyRacing]

Case in point little bug eyed girl, is that you are very rude, and a major insult to this hobby. The likes of which is really not welcome. When someone tries to give you constructive critisism, in order to help you out, you totally take it out of context. When you make statements saying you have spoken with all of the pros, and then contradict that by saying they all run G1 braces, which not many do, or by saying you run 3k fluid in your rear diff, it definately shows that you are either bluffing, or that you didn't learn anything from them. Then you make the statement that you frequent the Grid. Well, I have been on SG for over a year now, and I don't recognize your personality one bit. To say the least, if you brought that tude over to the grid, we would send you crying back to your mommy withing the first week. So, don't go bringin your crappy attitude in here anymore, as it is not warranted, nor is it wanted. Aight? nuff said. Have a nice day. Oh, and you're welcome. :D

[BuggyBoy]

Dude just about everybody on the Mugen Team runs 3k in the Rear unless there is ALOT of tight turns. i just turned bully in the last week here :) sick of the comments i got on my F/S post which made me hate everybody.

and i havent been to Starting grid in over 2 months.

[TalleyRacing]

You never really saw me get **** retentive with you about the f/s post, so don't go there. As far as the diff oil weights, you were partly right. I just talked to Ashton, he runs 3k in the rear without the o rings, also said that Chad and Kris run 1k, Chad without the orings, and Kris with. So we were both partly right. I admit to being wrong, but I don't cop a tude when someone calls me out for saying something silly or making an outlandish post. If people want to get all up in the fluff about your f/s posting, just let it go, and disacknowledge it. They have as much of a right to comment on your post as the next guy. If you can get the money you are asking for your car, I do really want to know who bought it, cause I want to sell him mine for about $1500.

[peejay]

I do run 3k in mt rear diff, without the o-rings in the spider gears. I run it because it make the car push, Switching from kyosho to mugen was very hard, Mugen has alot more steering, I don't like too much steering, you loose corner speed because of it. I ran 1k in the rear and it seemed like nothing was there. Made the car harder to drive. Put 3k in the rear and have been running it ever since, Easier to drive, Carries alot more corner speed, still pleanty of traction. I run 5k 7k 3k for diffs. no orings in any of the spider gears. If you have any questions i am always on the grid, or you can e-mail me. motorxjay@aol.com

[BuggyBoy]

yeah i took the orings out of my spider gears to. i




m just mad that R/C car has no Resale i guess. and now after i buy it all and find out there is crap for tracks im really mad and about $3k in the hole. and to lazy to seperate it all so i just keeping it.

[adim_x]

hello all, i have heard you guys referencing the grid, what is it, or where on the net thanks,

[BuggyBoy]

adim www.startinggrid.com


welcome Jason Ashton (or Clone) :)

[TalleyRacing]

See, I even get the pros to come over and clarify the discusion for all to see. And you can plainly see, that I was wrong.

[BuggyBoy]

Talley everybody is wrong. i admit ive been wrong sometimes to or misread and mistipped somebody.

but i try to help as much as possible just the last week ive been flaring :) but im done now lol

[peejay]

I will be posting on here more often and answering questions for you. I used to read some of the post on here along time ago, but never really posted much, but i will be posting whenever i see a question i think i could answer and help you guys out.
So ask away.

[BuggyBoy]

Welcome to RCCA :)


everybody peejay is a Superuberpro :)

[TalleyRacing]

pmsin? j/k

[peejay]

sorry buggyboy, had some computer issues, while i was im'ing you.

[speedydave]

Originally posted by TalleyRacing
Dave, parts aren't really hard to get at all. Another thing, I don't know if you're interested in a used car or not, but mine is up for grabs. Not a thing wrong with it, and it will have a good engine in it.

Thanks, but I've already got a deal lined up with another guy who's got a 3-ish month old XR for sale, because he bought a new one...it'll have a lot of new, or not very used parts on it, and a lot of hopups...but thanks for the offer! :)

BTW, I'm thinking about getting an RB WS7 engine, and Airtronics 94358 steering servo and 94755 throttle servo. How does this stuff sound? The buggy is coming with an RB 063 pipe(I can get an RB 086..or is it 83....the 80's pipe too, but I figure, I can just gear up if I need more top end). I'm also looking at the pre-built Ofna starter box.

[TalleyRacing]

The WS7 runs best with the 063, which you said is coming with the car. That is covered. For servos, 358 works just fine for steering, never heard of the 755, must be their new digital, if it is, they still have problems with it, I'd get the 94257. The best starterbox to get for 1/8 is the new AE/TTR box. It's about the same price as the prebuilt, but it's stainless steel, and is light weight, even with the 12volt gel cell in it. The only place I know of, off the top of my head that has them in stock, is National. Give em a call and see if they still have some.

[BuggyBoy]

Dave Just get the Mugen box. i think its the best for the XR i had a Ofna box and the wheel was to big to fit in the hole and there was no way i was going to cut my chassis. the Mugen box is really great.

[TalleyRacing]

I've never used the Mugen box, so I can't honestly comment on it. I use the blue ofna box, and haven't had a problem with it. Seems that I am always the guy having to start someone elses car because theirs won't crank it over. Basically, you just need to look at your budget, and the size box you want. Some guys run 2 7.2v packs, which gives them 14.4v. Yeah, so it makes the wheel turn faster, but a 12v gel cell will give it more torque. The downside of the gel cell is the weight. But, I usually only have to charge my box, about every other week.

[BuggyBoy]

yeah thats the Box i use to have the blue one. i thought the Mugen one was alot nicer tho i dunno guess thats just my opinion on it tho hehe. i have 2 of Team Orion top batteries in mine tho theres like $150 in batteries in it lol. owell

[BuggyBoy]

hey Talley please let me know where i can get the fioroni mounts to ive been looking for them forever.

[speedydave]

They were having problems with the 94755's? The 755 was the first digital airtronics servo. I think I'll get a JR 4750 for throttle then, if the airtronics has problems. I like my black ofna box, but the wheel was too wide for the hole on my GT, so we had to cut the wheel(no biggie). I've seen guys with the mugen box and with the ofna box, and they all seem to be fine. I want the pre-built with accessories, since I don't have a glow ignitor(I got the black one with the power panel, battery, and glow clip), so that'd be nice.

[adim_x]

i have had the worst time with ofna boxes that had the two 540 or 550 motors in them, i smoked one of the motors, then replaced both with trinity 19 turn motors, smoked one of them, i said screw it, i am only gonna use my nice big single motor box from now on, i dont understand why i smoked my black ofna box, my motors were already broken in and started on the first pop of the box, that is on my big blue ofna box, . I guess what i am saying is if you can pick up an extra pound or two, get a single motor box, with a gell cell 12v, you can crank on them all day if you need two

[speedydave]

Which Ofna box are you saying you smoked? I use the black box for my GT's .12, but I would buy the blue box(I think it has one large motor in it) for any .21.

I'm also between the airtronics 94358/94357 or KO Propo 2144/2143 steering/throttle servo combo. Any suggestions?

[peejay]

airtronics 94358 steering, and 94755 or 94737 for throttle, best combo, and saves you some money.

[PCC]

The shocks I posted about before were a brand new set that I got from a buddy. He gave them to me because he upgraded the shocks while building the kit. When I built the shocks I discovered that one of the rear shock bodies was shorter than the other by about 1/4" (6mm). If you look at the short one it is missing the final taper near the bottom of the shock. This results in that shock being 1/4" shorter than the other rear shock. The fronts are fine, being the same length.

I was wondering if anyone else has had this on their MBX XR Works and if so if you would like to trade either short or long shock body with me.

[BuggyBoy]

i havent had that problem at all. got a picture ?

[lositeamdriver]

jason

so your saying its ok to run the 737 on the trottle? i thought it didnt have enough toqure?

thanks bubba

[peejay]

I have ran that servo for years, Never have had one problem. That is what i used at the 1/8th worlds 2 years ago. Great servo.

[TalleyRacing]

I've never heard of that problem with the shocks, but anything is possible when you ship out as many kits a day as they do.

Buggyboy try Debbies R/C World in Va @ 757-340-6681, if they haven't got it, try NationalRC you'll have to call them because they don't have everything on their website. If they can't get it try Action RC Speedway in OKC @ 405-670-7770 out of the 3, surely someone will have what you are after.

Dave, have you thought about Multiplex servos. That's what I'm running now, and haven't had a single problem. They're digital and run right at $80 each. They're made in Germany, so you know they're good stuff.

[lositeamdriver]

doesnt that servo have plastic gears?

ok kool thanks

[BuggyBoy]

Losi plastic gears are ok for throttle/brake ALOT of people run the JR Z4750 servos for throttle/brake and they are plastic.

[adim_x]

i was using the black ofna box with dual motors and power panel, i smoked them on my losi xxxnt, with dynamite spd .12 motor, the motor started fine on any other box, mine just sucked for some reason, and that thing wasnt cheap, especially after i put the two trinity motors in it, i now have a purple slim single 12v ofna box, had no problems with it though. I was thinking about purchasing a hudy set up for my xr, do you guys think it is worth the money, i dont like eyeballing my setup, and my rpm camber gauge is hard to use to set toein/out

[BuggyBoy]

oh yeah the Hudy gauges for the XR are most DEF worth the $100. get em while you can :)

[adim_x]

what do you mean get them while you can, are they going to quit maken them, or something, or do they sell out quick. does anybody know where to get them, does horizon or tower hobbies have them,

[BuggyBoy]

if you wana be a Buggy Man you gotta start shopping at www.nitrohouse.com www.ace-hobbies.com www.nationalrc.com

and horizon for electronics :) lol


(just playing around bored)

one of them 3 will have it tho. i know as a fact there will be some at ace hobbies. but natl rc is a good place to go to and nitrohouse has the cheapest mugen's and parts.

[adim_x]

i know they have them, i guess that was a dumb question since i knew the answer, i am bored too. wish i could be racing somewhere, but no track for miles, our track we are building here is taking for ever, i seem to be the only one who really cares about it, and that sucks, because i am not the money man at the hobby store i work.
i was just hoping someone would say oh yeah! horizon carries hudy, so i could save a little cash, i'm too poor for 1/8 scale, but i love em anyways, we only buy from horizon, great planes, and mugen directly, and that is basically for me

[BuggyBoy]

i dont think horizon carries any hudy at all. Could check with Great Planes tho they might not sure tho.

[TalleyRacing]

No, Multiplex doesn't use plastic gears. I think it might have one plastic one in it, which is the same as every other metal gear servo. The thing I like about it though, is the thing make so much torque that it will break the mounting ears off the top cover and not do any harm internally. Good stuff man.

Serpent is the importer for Hudy. They are on shut down right now though. I think they reopen on the 15th or 16th. Debbie's had all the Hudy setup stuff for the Mugen the last time I called. I'm sure they still do. With all the bigger shops around the country, someone will surely have what yuou are looking for.

[adim_x]

how do you guys do you your brake linkage assembly, mine is always coming lose, i mean where the two wires meet the servo horn, there is a black plastic peice on top, and on bottom, held together by one tiny screw

[BuggyBoy]

what kind of servo horn is that? you should just buy a nice Dynamite aluminum servo horn might help your problem. but i fully dont understand it. if your talking about the long tiny screw put a drop of CA glue on the thread use the slower drying stuff and then tighten it in really quick

[TalleyRacing]

I've never had mine to come apart. All that I use is plain old Locite 242. Works fine. The aluminum servo horn is a good idea, but be very careful with your end points. Aluminum does not flex like plastic, and can pull the gears out of your servo. I use a GS plastic horm, and haven't had a bit of problems.

[adim_x]

it is a stock airtronics servo horn, came with my 357,i have never put any adhesives(loctite,ca) on it, that should probably help. Its justy that i can tighten, go run my car for a few tanks, and then its loose, i fear that it could come out, and i would lose some brakes, thanks for the ideas i will try some adhesive on them

[mugenmaniac]

I'm getting ready to break-in my RB Concepts, C4 buggy engine, but the RB Products website has been off line for a few days now. Can anyone tell me what the initial carburetor settings are for break in? I know the carb is preset, but I rebuilt the engine with a new sleeve, piston and conrod and so the carb is currently set for already-broke in. Tomorrow is a holiday (4th of July) so hobby stores where I can call will be closed. Please help. Thanks.

[TalleyRacing]

Turn the low end needle 1 turn out from flush. Turn the top end 4 turns out. That may be a bit rich, but it's better to be too rich than too lean. You will most likely have to turn the idle screw in to keep it running, but that is not a big deal.

[BuggyBoy]

Try posting in the Nitro forum. somebody there would know.i have a WS7 dont know if its diff or the same.

[TalleyRacing]

That is a base line setting that I gave. It will work with all engines.

[Guma]

Man I love my wife!!! She bought me the 4XR works for my birthday. It is already together, just awaiting my powerplant. Almost as soon as I was done putting it together (last night) I went to Ebay, and found a Collari XS2200SC (New) and got it for $265.

I have done a lot of research looking around for an engine, but this is the one that comes with the least amount of reviews and people that have them and talk about them. Anyone on here ever run one or seen one run, that can tell me anything about them? Also I do not have a pipe yet. Any suggestions there?

Well with every car there are bugs to be worked out. Do ya'll have any things that I should look at or change before I even run my first tank of fuel? I put the buggy together exactly as per the instructions, so I just want to know if I need to change anything from there.

Thanks in advance for any help and advice!!!

[TalleyRacing]

The standard setup is very good for starting out. After you run the car a bit, you'll find out what works best for you. As for the Collari, it's a Picco, which seems to run their best with a Paris Racing 069 pipe. If you can't find a Paris, the CMB 9904 is very close to the Paris pipe. Or, you can also use a Novarossi/Rex 053 or 063 pipe. Be sure you get the hard coated pipe instead of the polished on though. The polished pipe is very soft, and gets dented very easily. As for how the engine performs, it's on the same level as the Picco G1. Very good engine. Best of luck in your endevors. Oh, and by the way, you have a wife worthy of keeping around for many years.

[BuggyBoy]

well i dont know if its the same on the stock shocks i forgot but on the bottom of the shock ont he C clip you need to bend it in a little cause itll rub against the shock shaft a bit. dont know if its on the regular stocks but its that way in the big bores. so a tip if you get the big bores :)

[King]

Has anybody heard anything good about the sirio engines. I got one saturday and I can't get it started. I haven't done anything to it but add a shim because I'm running 30% trinity plantium with a #7 turbo plug.:confused: :confused:

[adim_x]

Turn the low end needle 1 turn out from flush. Turn the top end 4 turns out. That may be a bit rich, but it's better to be too rich than too lean. You will most likely have to turn the idle screw in to keep it running, but that is not a big deal.

that is what talleyracing said a few posts ago, sounds good to me

[King]

But Sirio engines are very different form everything elise because they have a aluminum sleeve and not a brass one.

[adim_x]

they are not all that different they still take the same fuel, they still are a two cycle, and they still are going to use roughly the same carb settings, they whole aluminum sleeve thing is a marketers dream, to sell, i am sure if you read your instructions it might have some baseline settings. the aluminum sleeve is there to expand at the same rate a piston does, it will take the same settings that any other 21 will take

[King]

Oh ok thanks.:D :D :cool:

[adim_x]

i hope u got that motor started king, good luck, that things look awesome,

hey buggyboy, do you know if debs rc world has a website, if so what is it, or anyone who knows

[adim_x]

any of you guys ever used a hardcore head(no dirty intentions meant), for a .21 os, does it cut down heat, i was considering getting one, just curious

[speedydave]

OK guys...here's the current, hopefully final idea on what I'll be equipping my XR with: OS V01b engine, Ofna True Start starter box(with accessories), 2 airtronics 94358 servos, and Trinity 30% fuel(not Platinum Blend). Any thoughts?

Also, do I need the pilot shaft or standard shaft version of the engine? Thanks.

[adim_x]

get the pilot shaft, but good luck getting your hands on one, personally i would get a 357 airtronics servo for throttle brake, it is a little faster, less torque though but it is still like 130 oz/in, why not use the platinum blend fuel

[db_racing]

Hey pros, Is there any place on the XR that I should watch for glitching possiblities? It just ran away on me in a heat, found that the crystal fell out. Reinstalled it and taped it down good. Then in the main it occasionally would not come off throttle to brake. I got it off the track and have checked wiring out (airtronics micro receiver, JR servos) all looked good, moved wires around on the bench with radio and receiver on and no movement. Just wondered if there was a known glitching area on it. If the batteries arent fully charged? The servos feel good and responsive but havent charged the batts for a while. :confused:
dunno

[speedydave]

Adim, the reason I'm getting 2 358's is because of what one of the editors told me(damn you're smart man..): if you bust your steering servo, you'll have another, identical servo for steering, and can get away with a standard servo for throttle for the time being...

[adim_x]

well, speedydave, you prove a darn fine point, with the 358, but hopefully you wont need to replace them, but sh@t happens, i wish i would have thought of that
does anyone know if there are any 4 disk brake conversions available, for the mugens

[speedydave]

Thanks, but I can't take credit for that idea...that was all Stephen Bess...

Guys, what kind of maintenance costs do you see with these things? That's the main thing that might kill me with this buggy...I got my GT 4 months ago, and I thought it'd be all I wanted for a while(like, another year, since I had been racing my T3 for about 1 1/4 years before i got the GT), but I'm being sucked into a money pit, and wanting 1/8...I'm starting to wonder if it's really worth it...

[adim_x]

it is only a money pit if you dont enjoy it, all things in life cost a lot of money, it is the american way to pay to play, as for a figure on maintenance costs, i could not give you one, i think it really depends on what you do with the car, as long as you arent breaking things, than all you are really paying for is fuel, misc. silicone oils, and you personal time. my problem with cost is that i cant quit buying stuff i dont need(eye candy) i have yet to learn to just be happy with what i have. i have had my car for 2 mos, have yet to spend a dime on it, that i needed to. But I have spent several hundred bucks on other crap, that i didnt need but sure is nice to have, i'm not much help in answering your questions but i can share my thoughts

[speedydave]

Yeah, I'm the same way..I'm never satisfied with what I have. That's why I'm getting this..it's the newest thing on my list(my GT was before..got that, raced it and loved it and still do love it, but the 1/8 just seems so awesome...). It doesn't help the fact that I'm only 14, so I don't have a high-income job to help me along with RC.

Also, I'd ONLY be racing the buggy...and I'm not a bad driver, so...BTW, I might kinda want tires, too ;)

[adim_x]

you must mow a lot of lawns to be able to afford these cars, they arent the cheapest thing in the world. Heck i just got my 1/8 scale, and now i think i want a 10scale truck, it never ends

[speedydave]

Yeah, it doesn't ever end...I know I won't be able to race all the time, so I'll be bored, so I'll want a basher....which means probably a .21 Tmaxx *more money!* I actually don't mow lawns...when I turn 15(september) I hope to get a job somewhere for 2 or 3 days a week, and I also get a decent allowance...

[TalleyRacing]

Debbie's web addy is www.debbiesrcworld.com Haggle them on the prices is they seem high. They are usually advertised prices, not out the door prices.

[King]

Well I don't have my XR any more. I traded it for two Losi XXX-NT's
One is race ready has graphite and titanium all the way around. It has a Novarossi/hpi .12 for power.Right now I'm running Odoneal 20% but I'm going to change to trinity plantium 20% when this is gone. From what I've been told I drive this a lot better than the XR. Oh and that Sirio engine is a pile of junk my Rb C4 had more power then the Sirio ever will. Well Is guess this is good bye You guys where a lot of help and I got most of the info that I needed from here. Take care and have fun.:D :D :cool: :cool:
Sincerly :King

[Shawn_S]

Originally posted by King
Well I don't have my XR any more. I traded it for two Losi XXX-NT's
One is race ready has graphite and titanium all the way around. It has a Novarossi/hpi .12 for power.Right now I'm running Odoneal 20% but I'm going to change to trinity plantium 20% when this is gone. From what I've been told I drive this a lot better than the XR. Oh and that Sirio engine is a pile of junk my Rb C4 had more power then the Sirio ever will. Well Is guess this is good bye You guys where a lot of help and I got most of the info that I needed from here. Take care and have fun.:D :D :cool: :cool:
Sincerly :King

That and the Sirio is a lot more (well relatively). It's 34X.XX or so at Tower and the new C5 is 309.99 at national. I'm sure that the C5 will handily out perform the Sirio...

[adim_x]

does anyone have troubles removing there universal from the hub carriers, my universals stick to the bearings, and they are a bear to get apart, does anyone have any ideas

[guswiththemugen]

need help when it comes to assembling mbx-4xr works diffs. The washer sized 5x10x0.2 ( kit bag A) is used on the out drive shafts. The xr kit is supplied with twelve of these washers as opposed to the 6 in the rr kit. No where in the rr manual or xr suppliment does it use all twelve. I have used two of these washers per diff, one on each outdrive shaft, six all up as per the manual suggests and have six left over. My diffs dont feel too tight as i have heard other people complain about this. My buggy is about to have its first run and want to know if i have done the right thing. I dont want to blow diffs as i have allready spent a lot setting this thing up properly. Please help!

[adim_x]

hello all, do any of you guys know of any chassis braces for the xr, i dont think g1 braces are available anymore, or if somebody besides national rc has them, i would love to find some. where has everyone been, this forum has been quiet


hey guswiththemugen, i put my diffs together the same way, i think they work ok, im no pro, but i think that is how they are supposed to be

[BuggyBoy]

fioroni makes some and mugen makes some to.

[speedydave]

I'll have my buggy in less than a week! :D But I can't get the engine, servos, or starter box for a little while :( Oh well...at least I have the buggy! Or..will... :)

[BuggyBoy]

cool !

[adim_x]

i was just running my car on my new track, my car is real quick, the track is a little too small. but i kept hearing this weird squeal when i would get on the gas, it wasnt real loud, but i could hear it. our track surface is a sand clay mix, i was running dirty harry tires. could the tires squeal in the dirt, i was getting awesome grip, i also use a aluminum clutch do those make any noise. One of the guys at mugen said that their chassis stiffeners would not fit, but i swear people use them on the xr. I really wanted those g1 braces. I think the blue fioroni stuff will clash with the purple on my car

[XXXTNovakOrion]

I run the silver mugen's on mine...work just fine

[BuggyBoy]

if you dont like the blue just polish them.... these are 2 of my G1s (btw i got them straight from the guy that makes them)
http://www.1337info.com/images/jason/G1polished2.jpg

[guswiththemugen]

thanks adam x. I take it your buggy is up and running? You had 6 of those washers left over? Ive heard a lot of stories of people wrecking there diffs and wanted to make shure this isnt whats causing it. It do feel better knowing someone else has built there diffs the same.

[adim_x]

why dont you call him up, and ask him to make me some, that would be sweet. I thought that baileym, who hasnt been around for a long while used the fioroni, and said they sucked. I know i could strip them, but that would be paying for anodizing not used. i guess im just a tough customer. i will have to make my own.
thanks for the advice, i might try to get some fioroni ones

you guys heard anything about the new mugen

[adim_x]

hey gus dont feel bad about leftover washers, i had a whole bunch of leftover stuff from my car, kris moore at mugen told me they were working on new diff gears, that will replace the current ones we have

[BuggyBoy]

G1industries@aol.com

email him yourself.
err paying for anodizing not used ?? lol thats the funniest thing ive ever heard. i dont think you should have a R/C car if your that tight :P

btw mostly charged for the metal and machining anodizing is just a extra.

and the new Mugen truck is really nice and it rocks the RC10GT and will beat the others on rough tracks (all i heard so far from Jason Ashton)

[adim_x]

im just playing around about the anodizing, i would like my car to be all fioroni(not needed but sure sounds nice), but i dont think i could get blue suspension arm mounts. i guess im kind of **** retentive about having the chassis match, silly isnt it. but i figure if i am going to have this expensive car, it should all match

[BuggyBoy]

heh most of my stuff is matched just have to do a few things yet but my foironi chassis is staying anodized the way it is.

[adim_x]

Some where i heard there was a new mugen buggy coming out?

[adim_x]

is that chassis worth it, does it look bad with the purple, or have you changed everything over, to a diff color

[BuggyBoy]

its just like a dark grey hard anodizing on it. it looks good the only thing i have left to do is the center diff mount but thats hard as heck to polish heh. i dont think im gonna do the wheel hubs or anything might just put the stock ones back on.

and i havent heard anything about a new buggy from mugen. just the new truck for now.

the chassis is really nice tho and about 3/4 of the weight. few parts are milled out and i think its thinner to. the only dumb thing is there are 4 holes to mount the rock/dust guards and the mugens there are only 3 holes so the middle one is a little tight. but its no biggy.http://imagesite.ihelix.net:85/Jason/Mugen1.jpg

[adim_x]

i just looked at atomic hobbies website, they have lots of fioroni stuff. Looks pretty, i didnt realize there was a center diff mount made. So are you polishing all the purple on you car. My dad polished his stock mugen chassis, looks sweet though

[guswiththemugen]

What is the problem with these diffs? My kit is a new one and doesnt have the overdrive front and all three diffs are the same color. (Different oil of course). I know mugen have made a lot of changes to this kit since it was first released which is why i wanted the newest version i could get. I also have a very old kyosho inferno DX limited (ever heard of this car?) which goes like a slug due to the weak pull start GS.21X engine which has never been rebuilt. Good car to practice with till my xr woks is complete. By the way im running a novarossi BX.21 SBK engine, hitec servos and transmitter

[BuggyBoy]

the new kits DONT have the overdrive they are all the same in the new kits.........

[adim_x]

that looks sweet, what kind of brace do you have on yuor front upper arms, also do you have a hudy set up, if so what sticker # do you have, i think i bought the wrong one

[BuggyBoy]

yeah i have a hudy but i dont know the sticker # this is what yours should look like tho....
and the upper brace is a G1 industries.

http://imagesite.ihelix.net:85/Jason/mugen.jpg

[adim_x]

you look like you are hooked up. I am waiting on my setups to get here, I bought them last week, from ace, they sent me the 1/8onroad, said i pressed the wrong button, wrong button my ass, i should get my correct gauge sometime tomorrow, or next week, my wheels are all out of whack, put on ti turnbuckles and hingepins, and everything is all messed up, when i built the car my friend aligned it on his board. so what all comes with the g1 braces

[adim_x]

one run

[BuggyBoy]

nice RB sticker i dont even see a RB on there :P lol

[adim_x]

guswiththemugen, here is your pride and joy

[adim_x]

here buggyboy, i just prefer my vo1 to my rb right now

[guswiththemugen]

Thanks Adim. Shes a beauty isnt she!:D

[stitch]

wheres the cheapest place to order an xr?

[BuggyBoy]

www.nitrohouse.com i belive.

[Vmax911]

Yeah, Nitro house and Ultimate Hobbies have the best price. I just got mine from ultimate, can't wait to finish building it!

Oh, and Ultimate Hobbies is 4 cents cheaper :)

[speedydave]

Adim, what do you like about the V01b more than the WS7?

[adim_x]

the vo1 has a more controlable throttle curve, that is just my opinion, i have not run the ws7 with my new radio, im sure if i adjusted my exponential that i would be able to better handle the rb power, they are both great, the os just suits me better

[speedydave]

Ah...my track is pretty technical, and I might benefit from the extra torque, especially since I'm just going to be running 20% in my engine. We'll see...I doubt I'll be able to get my hands on a WS7 for a month or two anyway.

[adim_x]

good luck getting a vo1, they have been hard to get also, i think the vo1 would be a good choice for you

[speedydave]

My track has one in stock, and I think the local Hobby Town has one or two...the bad thing is, they're about $310. :(

[adim_x]

u can get a brand new one on ebay for 235

[speedydave]

My mom won't let me use Ebay, she's worried I'll get ripped off.

[adim_x]

that sucks, i got my motors from some dude on there named serpentvector, i bought 2 one for my dad one for me, they were brand new, stil in box

[Vmax911]

Hey guys,

How are you shimming your diffs? Mine seem to be the smoothest when the mesh is as loose as possible (both shims on the side away from the gear). But is that necessarily a good thing?

[adim_x]

how much slop do you guys have on your upper front suspension arms, mine wiggle a bit, i was wandering if they need replaced or is that ok

[speedydave]

Well, I just got home from the local Hobby Town...brought home the rest of my XR's stuff :) I got a WS7(they HAD one, have zero now!), an Ofna starter box, and two Hitec 5925MG servos. Boo-yah!

[Vmax911]

Guys, is it just me or are the shock boots way to long for the front shocks of the XR? Should I cut them or just let 'em bunch up? Any secret I'm missing here?

[BuggyBoy]

no all the boots around are the same lenght. id leave em and bunch them up. unless you wana cut them then i guess youd just roll it up and put a tab of glue on it possibly. so it stays rolled up it makes it so it dont rip as easy.

[Vmax911]

Actually I just left them unrolled all the way, and used to bottom spring holder to "clamp" them into place. Then I just rolled them back up to the base of the holder.

I must say, this kit is beautiful. The buggy I had previous to this was an Ofna Ultra series. The Mugen kit is a dream to assemble in comparison. The parts fit perfectly, and the drive train is so smooth! Can't wait to run it.

[PCC]

Speaking of shocks, here's a fuzzy picture of my rear shocks that I was complaining about a few pages back. One of the shock bodies is shorter than the other and it is not a front shock body. I called Mugen and they want me to send the bodies in for replacement. I just haven't had the time to tear them apart to send them in.

[speedydave]

Alrighty guys..here's some pics of my buggy. This is the one with the body that actually fits...lol...yes, the tires are a bit worn..they were useless for offroad when I got them, so they're break-in/street tires now :)

[speedydave]

And the one without the body...the equipment, as stands right now, is an RB WS7 engine, 2 Hitec 5925MG servos, and a Novak XXL FM receiver. Yes, I'm aware I scratched the top of the RB's head...flipped on the street once and that happens....argh

[Vmax911]

Nice buggy Dave.... someday I'll get an engine like that. :)

I just finished my kit, time to get it dirty!

http://www.crazrc.com/images/photos/bodyleftfront.jpg

[speedydave]

Lookin' good man! Looks like you like your tile for your pics, too! That's the exact same tile(I think) I have, and usually where I take pics! Strange co-wink-e-dink ;) Enjoy!

P.S. Let's see a chassis pic!

[BuggyBoy]

im getting rid of my Mugen now :( not enough competition around here to race hardcore so im just gonna be trading it for a Supermaxx to have fun with. will be easier to mess around in bigger stuff with like in the area i live in.
http://imagesite.ihelix.net:85/Jason/Mugen1.jpg



i dont wana let it go but i never ever use it heh :( supermaxx id use more tho.

[adim_x]

hey buggyboy, why dont you sell me your g1 stuff

[BuggyBoy]

its going with the buggy the only thing i have for sale is a R-1.

[Vmax911]

Yeah, I noticed the tile thing too. :p I usually take pics in that room because it has the best lighting, and my cheap digi cam needs all the help it can get!

http://www.crazrc.com/images/photos/top2.jpg

[rc10gtisthebest]

Hey,

do you guys think that this auction would be worth it if I used the buy now? auction link (http://**************/ws/*******************************1753848391)

It has a bunch of fioroni parts. Chassis, shock towers, and a lot more.

[Vmax911]

Hey guys, had my first race tonight with my Mugen. I came down pretty hard on a final jump and broke a pivot ball. Are there any after-market Pivot balls availables, perhaps something stronger?

Also, any ideas on how to get the pivot ball stud out of the suspension arm? It broke off a bit inside the arm.

[adim_x]

www.nitrohouse.com they have titanium pivot balls, im not sure how to get your stud out of the arm. maybe if you could slot the end. or try a small drill bit and try to back it out

[Vmax911]

Thanks Admin_x, I ordered thos titanium balls this afternoon.

I was also able to get the stud out using a screw extractor.

I think the reason I broke the pivot ball was because I had my bump stop screws set too tight. (That and I hit the jump terribly.) Any sugestions on how to set these?

[Sidkik]

Hi everyone! Still in the process assembling my first Mugen 1/8 scale. I have a question regarding the Steering Servo Saver. The diagram indicates that the 350wt. oil should be used to lubricate the Servo Saver...but where? Any help to this novice is greatly appreciated. Thanks for the assistance in advance!

[jon4rr]

i have the rr and want to know what comes with the xr conversion kit i saw it on nationalrc for 114.00

[Vmax911]

Hey guys,

Just wondering what type of thread lock you use. I'm not sure what brand I use, but it is red. I blew up a clutch last race and while pulling it apart today I broke the heads off of two screws in the engine mount and had to use vise-grips to get the end screw out of the shaft.

Is there a certain colr or brand that will hold well yet not sieze the screws? Do I even need threadlock on those parts mentioned? Thanks-

[adim_x]

Hey do not use red, it is a permanent lock tight, use a blue colored one, most blue ones are a medium strength, i would never use red, it is seriously hard to get things undone, thats why the label says permanent

[Shawn_S]

Also read the fine print on the label. I got some threadlock for nuts/bolts and now I have permanently mounted engine mounts
:(

[BuggyBoy]

always use medium strength. all you need it to do is hold it sometimes stop vibractions in the screww and threads. medium strenghth works exelent. just make sure both threads are clean (i like to use Qtips on the inside threads to clean them out)

[Vmax911]

So has everyone benched there buggies since the onslaught of school?

[TeamCarnage]

School??? Thought my kids would never go back!!!! J/K

Adim-X You guys have your track squared away.. Just Wondering.... Nick A.

[speedydave]

I'm trying to get out to race my buggy, but yes, school(the dreaded "s" word), is going to keep me from racing my buggy much. :(

[Tstalion79]

Hey guys. Im new here, and i am getting an XR very soon from adim x. Would and RG engine be competent for racing? Or would i need something with more horsepower? Thanks

[speedydave]

I finally raced my buggy! Got third place in the first heat, but radio problems stopped me from running any more heats, or the main. :( But hey, I raced, got THIRD my FIRST TIME OUT, and had a HELL of a lot of fun. :) Long live the XR Works!

[DLF]

Take a look at these and tell me what you guys think. These are the orginal shoes...I'd guess 6 to 8 gallons worth. I really don't know how to tell when to replace them other than maybe a hit in performance. I can't really see a problem there...just wondering.

[Tstalion79]

I dont think they need to be replaced. They look like they just had lots of oil and stuff soaked into it. Just give it a good cleaning by soaking it in bleach (that cuts right through oil and will not damage a thing) They should look new again.

[maddog0559]

Can anyone help me; I have a Nova Rosi REX 21 CLB long stroke buggy engine and I’m need to know the factory settings for the carb. I got it used and am changing fuel and need to re-brake in the engine.

[Tstalion79]

you dont exactly need to "re break in" the engine. Just start it at the settings that the engine came with, and richen it about 1/2 -3/4 turns from there. It should be really rich. Just run it like that for about a tank and ur good to go.

[maddog0559]

Thanks Tstalion79
I richened it up and ran about 3 tanks of 25% (previous owner used 30%). I raced it Saturday and it runs good on the top just have a slight bog when you first give it gas. I have played with what I think is the bottom end needle, it has four counting the one on the end of throttle linkage. The one that stands up is the top end, the one on the side is the idle and the one on the opposite side of the throttle linkage is the bottom end? Not sure what the one on the throttle linkage does. My OS 12 only has the three, top, bottom and idle.

[Tstalion79]

That engine has idle, bottom end, mid end, and top end. Unless you are really good with engines, never touch the mid end. The bottom end should be the one on the side of the carb that doesnt move, and the mid is the one that is on the sliding part of the carb. Turn that 1/4 turns clockwise and you should have better bottom end. Remember though, if after you do that you richen or lean out the top end, it will change the bottom end settings. Because of this, always set your top end first, and then adjust the bottom end needle.


Teddy

[maddog0559]

Tstalion79 - Thanks, now can you tell me how full to fill the diffs.

As you can tell, I am new to this.

I plan of putting 7000 in the center, 3000 in the front and 1000 in the rear.

Robert

[maddog0559]

Can anyone tell me what shock springs seem to work the best and where to get them.

Thanks
maddog

[Tstalion79]

Fill the diffs right to where the two bars cross.

[Tstalion79]

I use white in the back and gray up front. Works well for me... Im sure you can get springs at www.nationalrc.com

[Vmax911]

I usually fill my diffs about 80% full. That weight combination is a good place to start.

[maddog0559]

Do you put grease on the gears in the front and rear diffs?

[b4llz]

First up, Hi to everyone here.

I've raced 1/10th scale electric buggies for awhile and have decided it's time to step up to the "big leagues". After a lot of searching the web for articles about the choices of 1/8 nitro buggies I've decided that the Mugen XR Works is the car for me. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find much of a good deal on the car online. The best that I've come across so far is on www.ace-hobbies.com. Can anyone point me to a better (pronounced "cheaper" ;) ) place to find the kit?

I've also considered going the Ebay route but I'm kind of worried about getting the car in the mail and finding out that whoever put it together didn't have a clue about putting it together.

Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated. :D

btw- I was also wondering what kind of engines and pipes people are running with their XR's? I plan on racing my buggie once I get it and have no clue what a good competition motor/pipe combo would be.

[Tstalion79]

Hey. I have an XR with an RB Worlds S7 on ebay. It is in perfect shape. Just type in mbx-4 xr in the search and it should pop up. Mine is hte one that has the username "up12345616"

Thanks.

[b4llz]

NICE! That's exactly what I'm looking for but the timing is kind of bad. I'm about to do some selling myself to help finance my buggy and won't have the cash that soon. :( I'm watching the auction tho just in case. Good luck tho with the auction!

[Vmax911]

I think that Ace has the best price around right now. They briefly sold them for $399, but now there are up to $429.

I bought mine from Ultimate hobbies a few months ago for $469.

[Tstalion79]

429 is still an awesome deal for an XR. I am sure, however, if you wait for about a month it will drop back to 399 for at least a little bit.

[b4llz]

OK, I'll keep an eye on Ace-Hobbies then.

What about some good engine/pipe combinations for the XR? I'm still not sure which ones are good or bad. (I'm still new to the nitro scene)

[speedydave]

I'm a big RB and OS fan, so my suggestions are a bit biased. What kind of budget are you on? I've got an RB WS7 with Dynamite inline pipe, and love it. A more cost efficient RB is the S7 Europa, which is usually about $50 less than the WS7, and both perform about the same. However, good luck finding an RB engine...they're pretty hard to find. As far as OS goes, if you want all out, the V01b is a great engine, and if you're on a budget, the .21 RG is a nice engine. I'm not all that great with pipes, and my Dynamite is pretty new, so I don't really have an opinion on it yet, but I've heard that the RB 086 inline is the hot ticket for most tracks(but it's pretty expensive).

[rc10gtisthebest]

Originally posted by speedydave
, but I've heard that the RB 086 inline is the hot ticket for most tracks(but it's pretty expensive).

I thought there's a new 053 pipe that's made for buggies out now?

Aint it the Hard Coated Mugen/Rex 053 pipe? Suppoed to be harder to dent than the RBs

[Tstalion79]

If cost is no problem, I would go with the OS rzv01b in a second. I currently run an RB Worlds S7 with a dynamite 1 piece pipe and its an awesome combo, but the Ws7 doesnt seem to have the smooth powerband or bottom end that the OS has. Furthermore, the OS is the king of reliability and it is ridiculously easy to tune for having so much power. The Dynamite pipe is the way to go because its awesome and is only 50 bucks or so. Just my 2 cents......

[DLF]

Hey guys. I've been fighting a mixture problem recently on my XR and I think I've found the problem. It appears that I have an air leak on the o ring seal of the fuel tank cap. Apparently the spring on the cap is not pushing the cap closed all the way. I have to give the cap a push to make sure it's closed tight. Anyone else run into this?

[DR.GT]

Hey all:

I'm a 7.5 owner and just dropped by your thread. I run a OS V99b which is the precursor to the 01B. I've tried the 063, 086 pipe and the best I've found for torque/top end /milage is the SH 1/8 tuned inline pipe/header by Megatech (ace hobbies). Its cheap and just makes my OS perform like a rabid dog! On smaller tracks I use a 13tooth bell and longer track a 14 tooth and I don't lose any bottom end at all. My friend has a S7 and we both use the 3 shoe aluminum clutch but I've got more bottom end than the S7 with either clutch bell and with the 14 tooth I can outrun his S7/063 combo.

:)

[chzops]

I am looking for a Odonell race head or somthing similar for my RB worlds S7...If anybody knows a website where I can find them I would greatly appreciate it..please let me know at cespinoza3@houston.rr.com

[DLF]

Does anyone know the real purpose of the bump stops on the XR? Particulalry the lower stops. Is the purpose to prevent arm damage or limit the suspension for handling? I never know where these should be set at.

[Tstalion79]

They prevent serious bottoming out i think. They slow down the car right before it bottoms out so it doesnt break the chassis or anything. It is mainly for "flat" and hard landings. I may be wrong though...

[DLF]

Here's why I ask. The two pics below are the front and rear lower arms from my XR. This car has not been abused by any means. This happens after about 6 or so months of weekend racing. I'm wondering if the bump stops (either using them or not) has anything to do with this.

This first pic is the rear arm. I know the pics aren't that good, but you can see how the arm is twisted. The outboard end of the arm has twisted down in the front. The front of the arm is to the left in this pic.

[DLF]

This pic is the front arm. Here, you are looking at the back of the arm. If you look at the hole where the antiroll bar mounts, you will see where the plastic has crimpled. It's like this because the arm has bent itself up on the outboard end.

Just wondering if anyone else has seen this and if it's possible the bump stops have something to do with it.

Thanks.

[Ho Hotwheels]

This may seems like a silly question but should I put grease on the ring and pinions gears? It doesn't say to in the instructions but my friends buggy (Its a Ofna gt lx) has lots of grease of its ring and pinion gears.


Thanks

[Racin Rev]

Here is another silly question.

I have a ebay used mbx and one of the diffs needs rebuilt. In looking at the diff housing I see that there are internal holes in it, leading to the question. How do you get the diff lube in it without it leaking out of the holes while you are putting it in? Are there any special sealing tricks? I only have one instruction sheet and I think there is supposed to be a set up guide which I didn't get. So I don't know what I am missing?
Also where are the best sources of parts/ assistance/ set up guides on the net? Any help would be appreciated. I am working through the past posts but am only to page 25 so far and haven't seen these questions yet.

[jason102276]

you may want to order the instructions i believe nitrohouse should have them they always run adds in rc car action if you need their number
the diffs should be sealed you must open the housings remove old lube fill with new and reseal if yours has holes in it you need to replace the housing

[Tstalion79]

I think that a set screw fills the hole. At least thats how it is on my 7.5

[Ho Hotwheels]

I finally finished building my mbx xr works and I must say I'm impressed by the quality of this kit. The only thing I'm disapointed about is how the kit scews don't "grab" the plastic tightly on the wing mount where it attaches to the rear shock tower ( It think there the 3x20 screws). I'm going to have to find some better screws. Anyways, what setups are good to start out with? I'm going to be racing at both a smooth euro. style track and a fairly rough and bumby track.

[DR.GT]

Ho Hotwheels:

What part of Canada you at?

:)

[Ho Hotwheels]

Just outside of Toronto in Mississauga

[Tstalion79]

Hotwheels- Yeah I agree that the kit is very well made and assemble is a breeze. It wasnt as easy to assemble as my 7.5 was, but it still wasnt bad at all.

[Racin Rev]

does anyone know the part number for the diff shims? I have my assembley manual and parts manual and can't figure it out.

[DLF]

Part number is c0227.

[DR.GT]

Ho Hotwheels:

I'm in BC. There are 6 clubs in Alta & BC putting together a Western Canadian Championship Series next summer 2003.
It will be consisting of electric classes and gas classes. Maybe you might be able to come out for some great racing. The final race will be in Sept. long weekend in Kelowna, BC. Let me know if your interested....

:)

[Ho Hotwheels]

Thanks for the offer but I don't think I could possibly travel that far( got no car ) but you never know.

[Ho Hotwheels]

Also what are some good buggy engine? I was looking into getting maybe something from novarossi or cmb? Any suggestions



Thanks

[Racin Rev]

TalleyRacing,

what are those engines you are selling? what can you tell me about them as far as specs? How much are they?

[dfarrales]

hey all,

i've just arrived into the 1/8 scale buggy scene i'm excited to get started! i've been into nitros only for about 2 years, all of which was spent on my maxx and mad force. i have a deal pending for an XR but i need engine suggestions. i know all the best engines are bumpstart, but i'd like to stick w/ a pull start for convenience reasons. i was getting ready to buy a v01b but i just don't think i can get use to carrying around a starter box. i mean, i really will only be bashing around my neighborhood and at the local track, but not really any organized racing. i've also heard people say that a p/start won't fit... is this correct? can't i just raise the motor mounts somehow? will this have adverse affects to the spur gear mesh?

also, what would you all suggest is a good p/start engine that i could mate to this truck?

thanks....

[jason102276]

a pullstart engine will fit fine there is lots of room ive seen a ofna picco engine that has a pullstart but none of the top end stuff has pullstart i have a vo1b and its great for bottom end power and a ofna picco 0-1 that has crazy top end i have had problems with the os but they warrantied it for me twice so i cant complain too much no problems with picco runs great at a good temp

[2Speed]

In this month's RCCA there is an ad for Ace Hobbies. In they ad they have listed a Mugen MBX XR Pro, with 'Call!' listed for the price. Is this a typo, or is this the new Mugen buggy?

[Hobbytown Racer]

If anyone is interested, here's a link to the XR Works I'm selling. It's a great price. I need the money, out off work and starting to get tight!!!! Thankshttp://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=99674