Mugen MBX-4, XR, RR Forum v1.0

[makaluch]

Hey, just tryin to start a thread and possibly get some setup info.We all know about the diff break-in problem, but maybe there's more info out there I haven't heard of.Suspension, tires, etc,...Well, my final note for this post is This buggy just rips ! :p

[rip93]

I've got the rr and love it. Haven't had any problems. I was thinking of going with heavier weight in all the diffs. 7000 in front 10000 center 3000 rear. What do you think? It's been hooking up great need help getting the brakes to work. It's down at the moment need to pick up a clutch bell.

[makaluch]

Yeah,the Xr uses those weights in the diffs.Actually the guys at NationalRc suggested(with tips from the factory guys)to run grease in the rear diff.Also the ?mesh? type gears in the diff are aluminum and contaminate the oil quickly.Go to steel gears, less maintenance, more consistent, and bulletproof.What weight springs f/r and what weight oil f/r?I'm havin a tough time nosin down over jumps. I gotta just peg that baby to land clean.Everyone thinks I'm a psycho-jumper :mad: It could also be because the front gears are slightly taller ;another difference from the rr,and it's messin with my groove on the takeoff.???

[ 07-25-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[StephenB]

The suspension settings have nothing to do with your nose-diving...you're probably letting off the gas once in the air or at the top of the jump.

Accelerate up the face of the jump & then stay steadily on the gas while in the air. If the nose is still down, hit the gas & it'll rise. Jumping an 1/8 4wd offroad car is probably one of the easiest RC cars to jump once you get a hang of the technique! Have fun :D

[makaluch]

Thanks for the advice StephenB, but I think its really in the shocks. My buddy-the competition-has his suspension setup sweet. I drove the car and its so smooth on the jumps but loose in the corners. I'm setup a little soft I think.I like to carve that inside line.Do you think the removing the sway bar/s and setting up stiffer would help?Our track has everything in it.Really a drivers track with varying traction(hard pack clay-mx type dirt)My buddy isn't givin' up any secrets. That's okay I just jump like a nut and carve inside and we battle just fine. I think I'm lookin for a perfect world. :)

[makaluch]

Hey is there any suggestions on a pipe/manifold for a Picco G1ProBV, and maybe some temp ranges? I'm runnin a one-piece Ofna competition set. I think theres a better combo out there I just dont wanna spend $$$$$ figuring it out.I run rich feeling at about 220.

[rip93]

Do you think I will notice a big difference dropping down from a 14t to a 13t clutch bell. The torque would be good for one of the tracks I race at but another has a great straight that requires good top end. Let me know what you think.

[makaluch]

There IS a noticable difference between bells. Where your motor hits is the biggest factor in whether you should or shouldn't gear down.Traction is another factor.Taller gears and good throttle control usually works best for me.I also run a Pro Picco.
I'm not sure if I answered your question, but bottom line is if you want to do the work and it shows in the lap times then GO FOR IT !However, there are quite a few other options to use to get better bottom end.

[ 07-28-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[rip93]

The reason why I asked the ? is because they didn't have the 14t that is what I have been using. I have a RB Europa and it was running great with the 14t. I found one so I don't have to go to the 13t thinks for replying. I am headed for the track!

[makaluch]

Did you have a bearing problem? I was wondering how your shocks were setup. Stock or other?I went to 50wt and Kyosho white up front.It helped me with all the jumps on our track. The jumps have short 1/10 type take-offs and I think my engine isn't on the pipe yet when I leave.Unless of course I'm spinnin my wheels, LOL.We opened the turns and bermed some just for the 1/8 scales.I'm still lookin for setup advice. I manage the way I am but it does get better. I'm just not diligent enough to test.

[rip93]

I am running stock setup. I have yet to try anything different. I have had pretty good luck with the stock setup. I do have a little understeer that I need to deal with. I have no probs jumping. At the track I race at there's time where they will put a 50 gallon drum (barrel) and pile dirt over it to make a double and your talking about 6 to 8ft air. It's awesome. http://mbrc-racing.com/pics/posse/super3_1.jpg

[makaluch]

I am also pretty much stock.I've used grease in the rear diff instead of silicon and the front shocks are heavier and stiffer.I plan to change the aluminum gears in the diffs to steel ones during my next service. I might be of some help with the understeer. Try raising the rear end 2mm and/or set your rear brake to drag at idle.The drag will allow you to just get off the throttle while starting to turn.Also,I set the rear brake 3-5mm ahead of the front so my front wheels still roll under mild braking.I don't remember if the manual tells you to put fuel tubing in the brake linkage or not, but the tube is important for "feel".The longer the tube the softer the brakes will feel and shorter is stiffer.Between 5 and 12 mm is the norm. What servo are you using for the throttle/brake? Also which other wheels work on the Mugen? I don't like the stock ones much. The tires try to roll off after awhile.

[ 07-30-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[ 07-30-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[MrWind]

Hey guys, I won the bidding on this MBX 4X (not the XR or RR) http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1619689167&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=996462189&indexURL=0&rd=1

I "think" I got it at a good price. All it needs is radio equipment and an engine.

Two questions to you MBX dudes... most of the parts from the current MBX will work on my version, right? Was $175 a good price?

[rip93]

Sweet car! I picked up my rr for $290 new in box off of yahoo auctions. I think you got a great deal. Check www.ace-hobbies.com (http://www.ace-hobbies.com) for referencing parts not too sure what will fit.

[makaluch]

MrWind-go ahead and buy the Nuova Fuor lightened chassis from www.nationalrc.com (http://www.nationalrc.com) . It's about 25 or 30 beans. It's a lighter and stronger MBX-XR WORKS chassis, machined too ! Was it assembled or was the buggy in a box? Sounds like a killer deal to me !I can't even buy a hammered Ofna rolling chassis from a friend for that ! :eek:

[ 07-30-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[MrWind]

Thanks, guys. Good to know it was a good deal.

Do you fellas know the major differences between the version I got and the current versions?

DrPassNSmile, if I bought that chassis, you sure it would fit the MBX 4X that I have? Is there any differences between the two chassis'?

Thanks. :)

[rip93]

DrPassNSmile Can you let me know what shock oil do you run in front and back. I was thinking of going 25 or 30 in front and sticking with the 35 in the rear. Have you tried removing the stablizers? Does it handle any different. I am having a lot of problems with the buggy pushing(understeer) on turns.

[makaluch]

MrWind- The Nuova Fuor chassis is a lighter aluminum with milled screw holes. It differs from the RR and previous versions in that the weight is transferred over the rear wheels slightly by moving the motor, and I believe, the gas tank rearward. The weight transfer makes a BIG difference. You might want to call NationalRC. There might be more info on the chassis.Rip93-I am setup in front with 40wt/white Kyosho springs and rear with 25wt/stock silver. This setup is okay on our track because it's very tight and technical with alot of jumps. I think I can do better with my setup but I'm not experiencing push. In my previous post there were a few suggestions on how to help with push. If you have the RR or previous versions the chassis is the solution. Also, I have not tried removing the sway bar, but I plan to the next time I can get out for the WHOLE day to test.

[rip93]

I am working on getting the xr upgrade. The great thing is that I can get it for about 30-40%off retail which is really nice. How do you have your caster set? Have you tried both clips to the front? Forgot about the above post sorry.

[makaluch]

rip93 - Sounds to me like you've got a friend in the hobby business ! That's rock bottom for any upgrade kit. They usually hike 'em up because they're in such demand.I haven't tried moving the upper arm back at all. I am not sure of the effect it will have, especially in an off-road situation, so I just don't mess with it. I think once you get that conversion kit most of your ailes will be cured. As far as setup, I really need to get into the Mugen/Seiki home page and print out some setups and choose one thats most like my track. I'm just wondering how wide those wheels are? Check out a setup sheet! Have you tried any of the things suggested? Are they working for you?
Hot tip - 35wt up front and 30wt rear,...I'm tryin it tomorrow,(can't hurt)I keep my current setup sheets in my radio bag with and changes in the comments. If certain changes are for the worst I can always go back to what I'm used to. I'm really just getting to know 1/8 scale buggies. It's sooo much fun, but takes more time than 1/10 stadium trucks.

[ 08-01-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[StephenB]

Rip, the XR conversion kit actually moves the engine further BACK on the chassis---the RR will have more steering in theory b/c the engine is further forward. If you're pushing, it's probably either due to a bad setup or you might be expecting too much from the buggy (i.e., slow down for the corners! ;) )

If you want max steering, try putting all the castor clips forward (reducing castor). It'll make the car a little more twitchy, but it'll steer better! Also, remove the front sway bar, and add a degree of toe-out up front. See how that feels; I bet it'll give you more steering than you thought the buggy was capable of.

[Dirty Pirate]

that 4x buggy that someone is buying.. thats an original MBX4. not an rr or xt. u can see the shocks mounted towards the inside instead of the towards the outside.. in the rear.
u cannot buy the xr chassis from NF or fioroni and bolt it on the mbx4. the other stuff will not bolt on. u can put the xr chassis onto the rr .. however good luck gettin the center universals for it, as of yet mugen has yet to release the center univs for the xr kit. u can, at the moment, only get them in the conversion kit (150 bucks) or in the xr kit itself.

[ 08-01-2001: Message edited by: Dirty Pirate ]

[MrWind]

so there's a conversion kit for $150 which would change the MBX4 into the XR?

If that's the case, $175 + $150 = $325 for an XR.... that's not bad.

[makaluch]

MrWind - I think what he was saying is that the MBX4 WILL NOT convert into an XR. Only the MBX-RR will. If you're determined to get a second opinion, try doing some research on part numbers (rear diff case, rear suspension arms). You will learn tons of stuff just looking around !Building, driving, repairing, researching, upgrading,...RACING !! It's all RC !!WWW.TWF8.WS
The website listed above is awesome !Choc'ful'o'info. I got lost for two hours last night. :)

[ 08-01-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[ 08-01-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[MrWind]

Heheh, this IS looking around. ;)

[makaluch]

That it is,..lol :D If you or anyone else has any info or great sites feel free to let us all know. Are there any other BB's for RC or Chat rooms? Not that this one won't keep me up all night, but there just might be something I'm missing. HaHaHaHa ! ;)

[makaluch]

What motors are you guys running in your MBX's? What tires and wheels also? Building tip - use medium Loctite on the screws in and around the servo saver and steering assembly (metal to metal only). Those points are very important in keeping the chassis from flexing.

[ 08-02-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[rip93]

I have a RB S7. The one with the balck head.

[makaluch]

What kind of power does the S7 put out? and with what pipe/manifold combo ? I'm thinking of trying out the RB C4. Any input on that motor as well ?Is anyone using the Torsen diffs in this buggy ? I run on a tight technical track and I think the diffs would help. They're just expensive ! What'dya think ?

[rip93]

I I have a rex one piece pipe and header. I would definately go for the C4. I have had great luck with my engine. A lot of the guys use the torsens and say they love them. I don't have them personally but, the only reason I would want them is cause they are low maintenance. :D

[makaluch]

Great news on the Torsens. I'll look into buying one, maybe both f/c.Today my buddy lost his gear in an Airtronics 94357 steering servo. It happened for two reasons. ONE: he dropped it right onto the back section of the straight and I CREAMED HIM, and TWO: his servo saver was super tight because he used too much loctite on the screw going into the barrel of the saver. I believe you mentioned you have the RR so it might not pertain to you, but for all XR's or upgraded RR's it will.Also my suspension woes are over. 35wt/fr and 30wt/rear and more preload in the springs(all four).And taking the jumps with 1/10 scale lips slower. :D Man it's just sweet now !

[ 08-06-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[rip93]

Your going to get the Center and Front right? I here it's a waste of time for the rear. Lucky you!! I am fixing to buy a house so I hobby budget is getting smaller :(

[makaluch]

Yeah, I'm in the same "house" boat. :rolleyes: And yeah, I'll start with the center first and then get the front. I hope this is the right order. It just makes sense to me. It's time for the diffs to be rebuilt , so I'm debating on what I should do. Steel gears or a Torsen ?? :DAAAAAH, I'll sneak a Torsen in there !!!! What the hay, eh?

[rip93]

Just painted a new body long needed. I am probably going to refill the diffs soon :(
I would start with the front torsen if I were you. That is what I seem to see the most(at the track). Get ready to spend some big bucks :D

[makaluch]

I'm looking for some motor help. My Picco G1 had some carb problems this weekend. The low speed needle backed out almost all the way in one tank ! What can I do to avoid something like THIS ? RIP - thanks for the heads up on the better Torsen to get first. I'll keep you posted on how that works out. It might not be for a coupla weeks though. YOU KNOW how it is ;) Gotta work on my stash a few bucks at a time ! LOL :D

[NitroRacer10]

Hey Mugen dudes LOL I may become one soon :) tell me what you thik of this deal..XR Works only 2 mo old.....Picco Collari x2200 and RB S7 Europa...Ofna box.... Lunsford hing pins.....5 complete set of tires mounted///hardcore ti pivot balls....and some spare parts (shock towers F&R) ..600 bucks..good deal or no

Also has Piggy Back resevoirs !!!

[ 08-09-2001: Message edited by: NitroRacer10 ]

[makaluch]

DUDE,..buy it NOW !!!Does the motor run ? How do you know it's an XR ? What's the Collari or whatever ? Spare motor ? New car is 510, box 80, motor s7 249(or so). How beat is it ? Electronics or servos ? Servos are upwards of around 100 bucks plus. Sounds like a deal, but look at what a new setup would cost, then look at what you've got to put into this used XR, plus what you'll spend on it.

[NTRacinGuy87]

Hey guys I have a Kyosho but the Mugen's look smooth real smooth I haven't drove one yet but I really want to they are really popular at my track but so are the kyoshos..., anyways how do they drive and I've heard the steering is a whole lot better and so is the cornering, is this true?

Wes

[NitroRacer10]

DR pass....this thing is like BRAND NEW..he races on-road but bought it to run a locla big race and ended up having to work...sooooo he now is selling cuz he is a on-road guy.....The Collari is almost brand new like 9 tanks and S7 has about 1 gal through it.....you can see the collari motor at ace hobbies....oh and many may have heard of RB c-4 Collario well he is now with Picoo so thus Picco Collari. I am going to heck out the buggy next weekend b4 making FINAL decision but sweet deal so far...hell the dude said I could drive it too b4 buying LOL..Yea baby now I can run 2 classes and not be so bored at races...

[makaluch]

NT - the Mugen does steer very well. I can turn the thing as well as my XXX-NT. A little rear brake drag helps me around but I'm very impressed !NTRacer - Almost sounds too good to be true ! If it's what he's saying it is then I'm callin' the cops !! Cuz you STOLE it from him at that price !!LOL :D

[ 08-10-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[NickBurns]

Hey guys,

I just got an XR works, I am in the process of putting it together right now. Last night I put together the F/R and Center diffs and also the center diff mount. I hope I can finish the rest tonight. I am using an Ofna Force P8 engine, Lynx3D radio and Ofna 1 peice tuned pipe. I will take some picture when I finish. Any suggestions on the assembly, like where to use threadlock etc. THanks.

PS any have the ofna force p8, I know its not the best engine but I got a really good deal on ebay for only 100 dollars. Its supose to be rated in the middle 2's for HP. I had a p4 and that was pretty good for me. Thanks

Nick

[NickBurns]

A few questions I forgot to add. I had an Ofna MBX buggy before and inside the front and read diff case it was coated with grease. Not inside the diff where I put the silicon but outside between the case and the chassis. Should I do this with my XR? Also I built my diffs and put the correct weight oils in all the diffs, but then I got the rear and front ones mixed up (They look the same), is this going to be a big problem if the wrong weight silicon goes in the front or rear? The kit came with what looks like 300wt oil for the shock, is this correct? I've herd of like 30/50 weights but not 300. Thanks

Nick

[1134]

I just bought some Mugen long rear shocks (CO578) for my Monster Pirate. When I went to put them together, I found a couple of strange things (there were no instructions). First, I can't figure out what the larger washer is for. Second, there is a little round plastic piece that is split down two sides. I don't know what this is for. Third, when I put the orings , spacers and e-clip in the e-clip went in by just putting it in with my finger. Should it really be that easy?

Is there any documentation for assembling these shocks somewhere?

[makaluch]

1134 - I'll scan my instruction manual and e-mail it to you. It'll be a huge file,...the scanner doesn't compress. Check out my profile and you can chat,...maybe I can explain too. I'm usually on after 800pm pacific time.Oh, the plastic thing sounds to me like it's the bushing the top of the shoch slides onto. Nick - There's a few tricks in the assembly of the XR. OK here goes,...The rear diff (black one) gets regular bearing-type grease, not silicone. Then the instructions explain front (silver) and center. When assembling the cases around the diffsbe careful to cross torque the screws and don't tighten too much or you'll lock up the gears. There is a gear-mesh problem.It will go away after 4 or 5 tanks. Then torque a little tighter. The manual does recommend grease as a seal between the cases also. Loctite is recommended on all of the metal to metal screws and nuts. Just be careful in the servo saver,...you can lock it up so the saver doesn't work at all ! Definately use MEDIUM loctite.Next tip is in assembling the universal outdrives. Be sure to clean the pins and carriers before installing and pinching with the set screw. Use motor cleaner. I can't think of many more tips right off, but if I think of more I'll be sure to let you know. Have fun !Oh, the 300wt is really 30wt. I forget why the notation is like that,...for European half weights, I think.

[ 08-10-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[ 08-10-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[makaluch]

Sorry Nick, you're message is buried in the last post. I keep forgetting the list end then it's just all messed up when I try to edit.

[chrisXXXT]

Hi people I am looking at a mugen mbx4-rr and a kyosho 7.5 can you tell what the difference or between the two. Some of the guys at the track have mugen's and kyosho's it is hard to make up my mind. What do yall thank
Thanks for the help :confused:

[chance]

Hi all, I have a RB powered RR. About the oil viscosity, you might want to check out www.twf8.ws (http://www.twf8.ws) click on tips, then car tips, then shocks. There's an explanation of the differance of oil rating systems.

[makaluch]

I think if you do go with Kyosho, the Kanai Edition is definately the way to go. Personally I love my XR, but I've never raced against a MP 7.5KE. Our local track doesn't see too many faces.I guess it's a good idea to check out the races and see who's handling better, then go to your LHS and see if they can supply both cars.

[makaluch]

1134 - just like I figured, the file is huge ! Those graphic files just take forever to send too. I tried sending it twice and someone picked up the phone cuz they didn't think I was online. :mad: Sorry, man. Did U get it figured out or do you still need that page?Chrisxxxnt - did you make up your mind on those two buggies yet? Keep us posted. Oh yeah,... the RR is easily made into an XR !

[chrisXXXT]

Hi Sorry guys I missed the bid on one. I am looking at other ones I am all so looking at a kyosho mp-6 I don't have to much money so I have to get a good one. I would like to get one with a motor. I am still looking
Thanks :)

[makaluch]

Okay, any setup tips or upgrades out there that would improve on the XR ??? Or is it as good as it gets for now ?

[1134]

DrPassNSmile, the file would be usefull. Thanks. Sorry, I didn't reply back sooner, but our DSL modem kept crashing thanks to the code red worm. If you use zip, it should compress pretty well.

[makaluch]

1134 - Huge file, huh ? I only tried that trick after seeing a buddy do it. It only works good on a pretty rough track. We brought some new dirt in and cleaned it up some. Then the rebound damping stunk ! It keeps you lower off the jumps and you hesitate, or spin, going from brake to gas.But if your track is rough it's a cool trick. No guarantees though.Oh, also no double o-ring with this trick.

[makaluch]

I figured I'd post the ? again. Are there any suggestions on setup ? What's workin for you guys out there? Any recommended hop-ups to the XR? C'mon guys lets get this thing rolling. :D

[NickBurns]

I just got my XR together tonight. I'm going to break in the engine tomorrow. So far so good. A couple of problems I had were that I didn't locktie the diff mount to the chassis. That thing vibrated free in about 10 seconds. I also had my CVA axisis come loose. Did you guys have any(many) left over screws and washer and misc parts after you built your kits?

Later

Nick

[makaluch]

Yup, miscelaneous shock spacers, body mounts, a transponder-holder I didn't put in (you have to figure that one out yourself if you race, lol). Luckily I don't yet, but I know where it goes. HeHeHe. A few kinds of screws too. I'd rather have extra than not enough !!! However you should NOT have any metal washers. Check the instructions or post again to make sure you haven,t missed something important. I'm also on AIM. Check my profile.

[NickBurns]

Cool I added you to my IM list. Hmm I do have quite a few really thin washer left over. Mave like 8 of them. I'm going to go through the instructions again tomorrow and double check that I put everything together right. I am running an Ofna DElta p8 engine. Do you have any experience with this? Later

Nick

[makaluch]

No experience with the Ofna motors, but I am using an Ofna 1-piece exhaust on my Picco. Are the washers really thin, silver, and with a large inside diameter? If so look into the diff assembly. They seal the outdrives from the outside elements.

[rip93]

Bent a front cva yesterday. The local track is brutal. How do you think this happend. Is it from landing in correctly off a jump or hitting the wall

[makaluch]

I doubt it's from a bad landing,...unless it was into the face of a big jump. I'd say the wall is the culprit. ;) Now you can get universals !

[makaluch]

Oops, CVA's ARE universals ! Silly me :D Anyway, there's a thread in the nitro section MBX-XR Works vs. 7.5 Kanai Edition. I was hoping there are a few of you guys out there that have actually driven both. A first hand account of the differences would be more helpful than say,...a guy like me ;)

[MAKALUCH]

Does anybody know where I can find springs to hold my brake pads off the brake.

[rip93]

Get one out of mechanical pen(I think that's what it's called). That's what most people use

[makaluch]

I'm wondering if there is a better front hub out there? I don't have a problem stock, but I'm starting to notice some play in the knuckles. Is this just a part that wears quickly? Also, is there some preventative maintenance I can perform to get longer life out of this part? Any input? :confused:

[Shawn_S]

Hi,

I'm new to 1/8 buggies, and I'm having a hard time setting up my front supension on my MBX. When I get the front camber set right, the steering gets tough to turn, and the shocks have a hard time moving up and down.

Also when I try to move the pillow balls out a lot, I can rock the hubs back and forth.

Any help would be appreicated.

[makaluch]

Shawn - which setup are you using? And the front bumper needs to be trimmed a little so the suspension arms can compress all the way down. I'd check for binding in the entire front end, suspension especially. Camber should only be at -1 and toe-out (1 degree) as well as rear brake drag will sharpen your steering . Zero toe is preffered though. Also why are you getting play in the hubs when they're out farther? How far out are they? Are they as per the directions?How experienced of a driver are you? If you're not very, then slowing down for the corners may be the answer also. This buggy is as nimble as a tank... I mean that in a good way ! :D Mark

[afr0sch]

Moving the pillow balls out is not the answer to any steering issues on the XR. Set the front width to the recommended 277mm, with zero toe-out and about 1 degree negative camber. Braking should be about 30% front and 70% rear (or make it where the front will roll with some resistance and the rear locks up). With this setup you should be able to lightly tap the brake at the apex of a tight corner and slide the rear around as needed. The XR will out-corner any Kyosho. Its turning radius by default is smaller.

In the end it all comes down to driving anyway! Practice!!!! :)

[makaluch]

Small tricks and driving preferences help to get to the front of the pack indeed. However, if you haven't been REALLY driving and practicing often you probably don't even HAVE preferences yet. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. And when you think you're as fast as you can get,...practice some more with a timer (M8 is great for that). Watch traction and smooth lines. Run heats with a fast guy to learn lines and technique. Run heats with a slower guy to learn to pass, and not lose time, or get out of your zone because you've changed lines. I've just begun to learn this recently. If winning is that important to you it's mostly in the driving, not so much the equipment. Try driving fast with a bad push or a bad setup just so you can REALLY tell when a change helps or hurts. Fast is usually the smoothest transition from turn to turn, smooth in, through, and out....not the fastest straight or sliding around EVERY corner. When you slide you have to come off the power to regain traction for forward bite. In a nutshell, go with stock setups and just drive often and hard.

[afr0sch]

duh ;)

[afr0sch]

I'm new to this board, and just want to comment on some of the earlier posts as I catch up!

Some of you were inquiring about the RB C4. Unless you run on a track where you can really open up that engine on several longs straights you are just wasting your money. That thing has almost 3hp when tuned properly. Its silly fast!! Has to be reigned back by adjusting the throttle input on the radio in an attempt to make it driveable. If you want to get one, go for it,but speaking from experience you will have to alter your driving drastically to control the car on a tight track. That engine was made for the wide open European tracks with few big jumps.

As far as engines go, I'm an RB fanatic. Myeself and all the other 1/8 scale expert drivers at my track run RB WS7 motors, with varying pipe/manifold configs. Some run better than others due to the person doing the tuning, but when you have it set sweet and you rev it in the pits heads will turn to see where that sound is coming from cause they know that thing means business! With proper tuning you can make a 23ft quad jump with only about 8-10 feet of runway (and if you carry the proper speed through the preceding berm!) I'm telling you man, RB products rock! They hold their settings well and don't change from day to day unless there is a huge change in air temperature, then its only a small tweak.

There's nothing like going to a different track to practice and everybody comes up saying "Damn that thing is fast!! What have you got in there?!"

I run an RB C12 in my RC10GT also. Kicks bootie too! OS eater! :eek:

[makaluch]

DEFINATELY RB !! I have a Picco G1Pro-BV and it's a great motor. But then I picked up a used ride and rebuilt a six month old RB World's S7,...WAHOOOWEE !! I'm now a RB Concepts believer !! So what's Boost Inside REALLY mean anyway ?!? Ported crank and boost transfer? HUH . :p

[makaluch]

Oh, what I was really comin here for is for some real setup info and to relay a few upgrade places. Fioroni (if you can find them) makes an XR chassis and stiffeners. And Lightspeed makes graphite front and rear towers(thick ones), radio tray, and also center diff top plate. Mugen and Nuova Fuor also make rad tray and top plate.Try www.spareville.com (http://www.spareville.com) for a few neat tricks.

[baileym]

I agree on the RB C4 thing. I live here in Germany where we have lots of long wide open tracks, and still no one runs that motor. The S7W will out pull it out of every corner. The C4 will catch up eventually on a long straight, but in general the S7 is a better overall motor. Plus the if your track doesn't have at least a 150 foot plus straight, you will never get the C4 to top speed. We have a few tracks with 200 plus foot straits. As for the Fioroni parts, they are okay stuff, but the rear chassis brace will break on a rough track. I went through two of them before I switched back to stock.

[makaluch]

I tried that trick on the spareville site ! I moved the rear hubs back by cutting the flange and using a shock clip for a spacer. I also ran his setup down to the diff weights. The day 4 setup without the front stabilizer. IT'S A TOTALLY DIFFERENT RIDE !!!And I can say from experience that my times are faster, I'm smoother, and the diffs feel GREAT (3000fr,4000c, grease rear). Go ahead,...try it. You'll see !! :D
I also put springs in the brakes, lowered my endpoints for braking and adjusted the linkage for 70 rear and 30 front with no drag. Way quicker through the turns. I don't need to use the slide technique to stay fast. Smooth in,...and hard out !!!

[ 09-12-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[ 09-12-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[afr0sch]

DrP, congrats on the setup changes. I've tried the dif oil stuff and it works, but the biggest thing is the brake adjustments. Its all about being smooth through the corners, no stop and go or slide and go stuff. Too much time wasted! Work on that specifically and you will get way faster!

Anybody in here tried the Progressive Suspension piggyback shock caps? If so, post what you think, I'm interested. Thanks. :p

[makaluch]

A buddy comes out every now and again to the track who's got the piggybacks. He says they don't fade. I felt them after a tank and there was NO air at all !! They're just consistent so tuning a new track is easier,...for those who choose to do it anyway.

[makaluch]

I think we're dyin here. Any way to avoid leaky diffs? Center in particular. Also, what should the maintenance schedule be like with the Mugen diffs? I changed to TT steel gears inside so I contaminate less, but I'd like to know when I SHOULD be doing it.

[poipoundah]

Wasssup everybody!! Just wanted to say I'm a new Mugen XR owner since yesterday! And I can't wait to build it and kick some Kyosho butt!! Laters! :D :D :D :D :D

[poipoundah]

Hi everyone!! I just completed building my XR. Now the problem that i have is that when I turn the center diff, the rear wheel turns in the correct direction, but the front wheels turn in the opposite direction!! :eek: So that means the buggy won't move at all!! Can anybody help me out on this?! Did I install a diff bachwards or something?? HELP!!! :confused: :confused: Thanks in advance!!

[BoozzZ]

Yes, turn the front or rear diff around. But be shure to turn it the right way around, look in your manual. If you turn the wrong one around, you car will run backwards when you turn the engine on :)

[ 09-21-2001: Message edited by: BoozzZ ]

[poipoundah]

Hey Booozzzz!! Thanks, that solved the problem! Hahaha, boy do I feel like an idiot!! :rolleyes: :D

[makaluch]

Use 3000 in the front diff, 500 center and diff grease in the rear. Smoother in, and harder out of the corners. What motor did you go with ?

[poipoundah]

Hey Dr.P! I went with the stock silicone oils for now. But eventually I will experiment with different weight oils. So you recommend those viscosity oils? What kind of grease should go in the rear diff? Which brand shouuld I go with?
I bought a Ofna/Picco O-1 engine. I haven't started it up yet so I don't know if this engine is good or not. But I've heard good things about it.
I have got another question! Do you have to trim the foam insert for the tires before you mount them? They kind of look too big for the tire and rim?
Thanks for any help!! :D

[makaluch]

I trim the corners round for the crimefighters. I don't know about fit, but it helps maintain traction under body roll. Tip your car right and left with all four tires on the ground and you'll see what I mean.I run the Picco G1 Pro in mine. Be sure to seal all possible air leaks. Don't forget the upper back plate screws,...they're a possible leak if tapped too deep into your crankcase. Also, I would pull the carb and back plate and flush the crankcase with denatured alcohol to make sure there are no metal filings. A Nova carb might make tuning more consistant too. The Picco carbs are real finicky as the conditions change.I use JT-6 diff grease in the rear. You might want to check with your LHS about the grease. The first time I used waterproof motorcycle bearing grease and it deteriorated quickly under the heat. I believe it's petroleum based too. :) Mark

[TEAMTED]

Hey guys! Guess what? I AM GETING A MBX-4RR!!! I am sooo psyched!! I am getting a sweeeet deal too! 300 NIB. Now i just need an engine and radio gear. What engine should i get. I want it fast, but it dosn't need to be like 3 horsepower or anything!! I don't want to spend a ton of money on en engine either. I am looking for a solid, relatively fast, but reliable engine. THANKS ALOT!!!

[poipoundah]

Hi guys, I need your help again!! Right now I'm putting together my engine....flywheel, clutch, bell, etc.,......the prob i'm having is when I tighten the screw that goes into the pilot shaft, the clutch bell doesn't spin freely. Do I have to add shims or something? How many spacers should I add in the back of the cone washer? Thanks again for any help!!:D

[BoozzZ]

If I understand your question correctly, you have to remove a shim from the clutch bell (the one that sits on top of the outer bearing), and maybe replace it with one or more thinner ones. You need as less play as possible on the clutch bell, but it has to spin freely like when you didn't tighten the screw yet.

[poipoundah]

Once again, Booozzzz comes to the rescue!! Thanks again! This is my second 1/8 buggy. So I'm still learning!

HeyTeamted, congratulations on your purchase! I think thats a really good deal! As for the engine I'd go with an OS. They are really reliable and easy to tune. I went with a Ofna/Picco this time, so I hope this is a really good engine too. Laters!

[TEAMTED]

Guys, is the xr much faster than the rr? If so, what makes it so much better? What hop-ups can i buy for the RR to make it better? THANKS ALOT!!

[makaluch]

Well, the most critical difference is he chassis. The motor, tank, and radio tray are all moved back over the rear wheel. This takes some of the steering out, and promotes stability. The universals front rear, front center and rear center also help smooth out the drivetrain.

I feel the RB Europa is the best buy for the buck. Actually the Worlds S7 is, but you pay about 40 bucks for durability over the Europa. Power is the same, but rpm's are slightly down compared to the WS7. I will also recommend the OS RG. It's rock solid and easy to tune. Lasts a long time and has good power on a small to medium track.

[Shawn_S]

What type of antenna mount are you guys running? I have this stock springy thing. Is this a really old mount or something? What mount does the XR have.

[poipoundah]

Hey Shawn!
I have that springy antenna mount also. I have a XR, too.
Hey does anybody have a problem starting their Buggy? It seems as if the starter wheel won't fit in the hole in the chassis? Do I need to enlarge the opening? Thanks!

[makaluch]

I USED A DREMEL TO BEVEL THE OPENING. I DIDN'T ENLARGE THE HOLE. THE BEVEL IS ENOUGH TO ALLOW THE LARGER DIAMETER (NEWER) WHEELS TO REACH UP TO THE FLYWHEEL.:) MARK

[poipoundah]

Hey Mark, really appreciate the info!!:D Man, without this forum, I'd be lost!!:(

[makaluch]

Hey any of you guys out there runnin a center torsen ? I was wondering how it changes the power-on steering,...meaning out of corners. Thanks:cool: Mark

[TEAMTED]

YESSSSS!!! MY RR WILL BE HERE BY FRIDAY!!! THE CHASSIS IS SUPPOSEDLY SCRATCHED UP THOUGH... I WAS THINKING OF GETTING A NUOVA FOUR CHASSIS. IS IT GOOD? HOW MUCH IS IT? WHERE TO GET ONE??? THANKS ALOT GUYS!!!:D :D :D :D

[makaluch]

You might find Nuova Fuor stuff for the Mugen at Their www.nationalrc.com, but you'll probably have to wait. It's good stuff ! Lightened up top like Fioroni, but no cooling grooves underneath. I use the Fioroni chassis just because a buddy found it for me. Upgrade the stiffeners too. It makes a BIG difference.

[XR Mugen]

Hello all!

I am new to this thread and have been driving my XR for about four months now. I have also had trouble with my center diff leaking but I am not quite sure why. I have been thinking about swapping it out for a Fiorini Torsen.

I did want to mention for anyone that is looking for a new head for their RB or NovaRossi engine that I just got a new cooling head from National RC called their "Mo' Head." It is really nice, it is about the size of a RB C4 head, maybe a hair taller and it has a great clear finish on it. It also uses head buttons so for an RB engine, you will need RB 1090 for the standard button or RB 1082 for the turbo button. I am trying the turbo on my S7 to see if it works better. The engine itself is great!

Another thing I found out the hard way is that OFNA 5 star wheels rub the rear hubs on the XR and require shims to work at all. I did not run the rims to try the shim fix but I did get MP 7.5 rims that fit perfectly.

One quick question. Does the Fiorini XR chassis keep everything in the exact same positions as the stock XR chassis?

Thanks
A:cool:

[Bandicoot]

Has any body found different springs that will fit the XR? I'm looking for a medium-soft spring and was wondering if the ones from the 7.5 will work. Has anyone tried this?

Also, what starter boxes are you guys using for your Xr's? I went through 3 at my LHS before I found one that would line up with everything. It's the Dynamite Ultrastart, it's still not even perfect cuz I can't use all 4 post to hold the car in place, only 3 fit. I'd hate to think this is my only option incase something ever happened to it.

[makaluch]

Kyosho springs do work. The stock Mugen springs are great though. I can't see why you'd need to use any others. What wt. oils are you using and what kind of track ? I use Kyosho white's sometimes when we add a bunch of jumps and choppy stuff to our track.

Ofna's 1/8 scale box works perfect. This is a pic of my Kanai, but the box is pretty clear.Well, it's too big to attatch, but try this. These are the pics that are on my webpage. www.home.earthlink.net/~btmam/ uimages/

[Bandicoot]

I'm going to be making a trip to The Dirt RC Park in Cali soon and was told buy a local there to change to a med-soft spring cuz the track has alot of jumps and bumps. I have the Mugen 350 oil in the front with the 2-hole piston and AE 25wt in the back with the 2-hole as well. The car handles great at low speed tracks which is all we have here in AZ, so far I love it!(The XR):D It has the SBK-01 engine and the Airtronics 357 & 358 servos and M8 radio. I was having a overheating problem though, I was running 20% O'donnels (only because none my LHS stock anything to do with 1/8 scale):eek: I have since switched to 30% and an MC9 glow plug, problem solved!:D

[makaluch]

That's a nice shock setup ! I use the one-holes in the rear and 35 wt up front. Our track is small and pretty low-speed too. I did change the tower and arm positions though. It changes the roll center and actuall adds a little drift. This works out for me because of the Airtoronics 357 servo in the steering. Check out www.spareville.com for the setup I like. There's also a little rear hub mod that works great !!!

The leaky center diff is probably from heat. There's really no way to stop it, unless you really get on the gear screws. The problem is that you'll strip the diff case. Just clean up and perform REGULAR fluid changes and I think you'll be fine. You can also try to use thicker oil to reduce differentiation and heat. Sounds like that might work too, but I've never tried it. I don't have enough time on the buggy to maintain it !!! I'm actually sellin my buggy, I think. I own a Kanai too. I just have too much stuff !! :rolleyes: Mark

[Bandicoot]

I went to the spareville site and could not find the hub mod you are talking about. Is this a secret or something?;)

[99cobra1]

He changed his website up and It is not on there anymore (I was looking for it also). I am running stock diff oils, shock oils, and suspension setup and my car seems to push real bad coming out of a corner under acceleration, I have to let off and let it turn sometimes because it is about to push me into the wall. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can try. I thought about maybe going to some 5000 in the front diff to help pull it out of the corner but I am not sure if that will help.

[Bandicoot]

I had the same problem with the stock set-up and heard of some guys using grease in the rear diff instead of the silicone oil. It's basically just high temp grease, the guys at Ntaional RC sell this stuff called JT6. I used a high temp lithium grease and it worked great. Most guys do use the 5000 oil in the front, I decided to go to the extreme and try 7000 in the front and it works really well for fast on the gas corners. The only draw back I can see is that the car is really twitchy coming out of tight corners. One more tip, make sure you have your brake bias set for 70% rear and 30% front, this will help getting the car turned in and the back end going in the direction of the turn so you can get on the gas and when the car is still in the corner.

[makaluch]

You said it Bandicoot ! JT-6 is the stuff. I ran it from the get go so I never experienced the push problem. I am 3000f/5000c/grease out back, but my track is a little loose. Lighter when it's loose and thick with grip. Ratio from front to center is all preference.

The rear hub trick is simple. Notice the flanges on the hub that center it on the hingepin ? Well,...cut them off,... and slide the hub to the rear. Shim the gap in front with shock limiters. You'll notice less twitch when you've got a finger full o' gas. Heavier oil up front helps too. :D Mark

[maxxxracer]

hey guys, who makes that nice alluminum rear brace that goes from the center diff mount to the rear chassis stiffener mount. I have been wondering. I have heard it stiffents the chassis up by alot.

[Bandicoot]

I made my own out of aluminum and you would not believe how much stronger it makes the chassis. I only know of 2 companies that make them, Mugen or a company called G1. The Mugen one is about $30.00 bucks and the G1 is sold by National RC, I don't know the price. You should also check out www.twf8.ws and look in the tips section, there is a tip on how to make one, not to mention lots of other helpful stuff.:D

[makaluch]

I read somewhere that you can also make one out of a xx-cr's battery strap. It's graphite though...it's known to snap. Mugen does make them and you can find them at www.acehobbies.com .

If anybody tries the hub trick, try to get back to this thread and let us know what you think. Thanks,...Mark

[maxxxracer]

mak, the one your talking about came from the site bandicoot is talking about. TF8

[makaluch]

If anyone's got pics, feel free to post 'em !!

[maxxxracer]

what engne you got in there. When I get mine I am going to put an O.S. 01

[99cobra1]

Heres mine If I can figure out how to post a pichttp://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/543-99cobra1/flame%20XR.JPG

[Bandicoot]

Hey Maxx, are you getting the RR or the XR? It's deffinitely worth the extra cash to get the XR.

[XR Mugen]

Hey guys:

You know, I was just thinking about that rear brace that Mugen makes that goes from the center diff to the rear. Is this any better than the stock XR brace?

Thanks
A:cool:

[Bandicoot]

There's no question that it's better than the stock XR one. I have the XR and you can flex the car by hand and watch the motor flex right at the center diif gear ALOT! :( It does this because the stock brace only goes to the chassis behind the center diff and allows the car to flex at the lower mounting point. The one that Mugen or any other after market company sells goes from the rear of the car to the top of the center diff housing making a complete connection with no flex.:D

[99cobra1]

National RC carries the G1 braces, they have the rear chassis brace, front chassis brace and the front hingepin upper a arm brace thingy (can't think of the proper name) It is pretty sweet it has some holes for setscrews to keep the hingepin from moving. All three of them are about $60.00 if I remember right and they make it alot stiffer.

[maxxxracer]

I am getting the XR. Just dont tell ubergamer. he will come after me with GS STorm giberish. Anyway, I will get the rear brace from mugen. One question I have is that plasitc hingepin holder thingy strong enough. From the pics i have seen it looks weak.

[Bandicoot]

I haven't had any problems with the stock hinge pin bracket breaking or anything. That is one of those things that if I break it I would upgrade to the G1 bracket. The only thing I've broken on the car isn't even a Mugen part! I broke the Airtronics 358 servo arm landing wrong off a jump.:mad: Unfortunately the car has taken some abuse because of concrete walls at my local track that seem to in the worst possible places.:eek: But I am happy to report that there has been no damage to anything on the car, great durability!

[maxxxracer]

oh ok. sweet. I have heard that the mugen is extremely durable. That is great to know.

[makaluch]

The engine is a Paris Picco G1 Pro BV with the Ofna/Picco one-piece pipe. Great motor,...tuning is a chore though. Finicky and sensitive to changes. Once dialed,...it's in the RB C4's league.

The XR is definately more driveable. The tank, motor and radio tray are moved about 10mm rearward from the RR's and previous versions. This takes some "twitch" out.

Front upper hingepin brace IS cheesy, but I've never broke it. In fact, I've NEVER broke ANYTHING !!! :D Then again... I spend more time here then on the track !! !LOL

Nice buggy !!! WS7 ! Great motor ! I've got one in the Kanai,...lol

[NitroRacer10]

Ok first I would like to say HI and look for me a little more around here as My XR will be here hopefully Friday. Anyhow I have been hanging out just reading posts etc.... and I can't stay out of discusion any longer. One note I would like to point out is that Mugen designed the car with the rear brace that way for a reason....a lil flex is not bad and the brace to rear diff i was told makes the car TOO stiff. All of this info comes from a Team driver. I am not saying that the G1 stuff is bad b/c I persoanlly was going to buy it too until I talked to my buddy on the team. I have a Crono and was going to do the same brace idea similar to the way the EB4 LE is but I didn't. So I guess its whatever you feel works for you. Like I said you are right when you say it does stifen the car up :) Also the new Aluminum clutch is out as are the new shocks with 3.5mm shafts! A little time with the car and hopefully I can contribute more. Well I am so excited about my XR. can't wait.

[maxxxracer]

I saw that alluminum clutch. ARE THEY CRAZY?!?!?!?

First of all it will creat excessive heat. secondly it will be the loudest thing you have ever seen if it drags, which it will. Third, it will kill the clutch bell and warb it.

[99cobra1]

Actually that is a C4 ;). It is not what I expected It has more low end than I thought it would but not as much on top that I thought it would. It runs around 230 after about 20 mins of racing so I could probably lean it out a tad but I am going to leave it alone. I also have a WS7 and I would say they are about the same except the C4 has more lowend. Before I had either engine I had heard that the WS7 had more bottom and that the C4 had some crazy topend. Oh well they both run good I am not complaining. I really like Novarossi engines but the Ofna/Picco 0-1 Comp is a pretty wild engine. I has one that was on its last leg I ran it about 4 times before it finally wouldn't stay running and that thing flew. If anyone read my complaint about the car pushing real bad coming out of a corner under acceleration I took the front diff apart (the only one I havn't disassembled) and apparently the dude I got the buggy from didn't put any Orings on the outdrives and it didn't have any oil in it. I am hoping that was the problem. Anyways lets see some more pics.

[maxxxracer]

C4 have more torque. that is hard to believe. Your the only one saying that.

[maxxxracer]

Hey guys, I need a list of scews for the XR. I am going to replace the stock ones with metric blue hex screws. I hate philips scews.

[makaluch]

So who makes the 3.5 shocks ??? Mugen ? I gotta check 'em out !

The rear brace does stiffen it up ALOT !!! It's a preference thing I'm sure. I like to feel the suspension changes. My experience is carried over from 1/10 so if the chassis picks up some of the track it throws me off.

I hear the C4 needs alot of track to show its true colors. Tuning probably attributes to the type of power you have. Have you pinched the fuel tube at idle ? Sounds like you're lean down low and rich up top. Just my opinion and that's not sayin much !!! LOL

[maxxxracer]

I have never driven the buggy, but chassis flex is not a good thing. It changes the buggies geometry and you get untunable disconfiguration.

Hey guys, there is a great mugen forum that me at bessy know of. I dont know if the mods will let me tell you but just incase they wont email me at briantho@mindspring.com for the adress.

It is the best forum you could imagine. It has all the best racers in there (pro guys)

[maxxxracer]

So how do you guys like starting grid?

[teamted2]

Hey guys, i have a couple Q's. If i got an XR chassis, would all of my rr stuff fit right on it? Would i need other stuff? Also, is the nuova faor chassis any good? Is the xr3 good enough? I am getting a 605 MG high torque servo for steering, is it good?

Thanks
Teddy

[maxxxracer]

Well, if your going to convert your RR to an XR you need to get the kit. its alot cheaper than going out and buying all the parts. you need driveshafts and some other stuff to make it a XR.

the nuova faor chassis is good

the servo is good but the best is the airtronics 94258. it has 200oz of torque at .10

[makaluch]

Actually the Air 943 57 is the 200 oz. one. The 200 series are a little lighter and more suited for 1/10.

The Nuova Faor chassis is setup to be an RR chassis. Meaning the motor, tank, servo tray are in the forward position not the rear position like the XR's. The major difference is in the steering. RR's have a skittish feel,...too much steering ! And the kit is the best way to convert, but even the kit doesn't have full universals.

[maxxxracer]

mak, sorry its the 94258 that is 200oz. I just looked on the box that it came in the 7 is the 125oz one. mmk.

[99cobra1]

actually you are both wrong it is the 94358 that is 200 oz.:D

[makaluch]

LOL,...I screwed up,...I was refering to the 3 in 357 not 2. Meaning,...or thinking I should say...that the 358 was 200 oz.

So Airtronics makes another servo that's as strong and fast as the 358(.10 transit at 200 oz. at 6v) ? 357 is 125 oz and .06 transit speed at 6.0. Is the 258 that fast and strong too ? I've never heard of that servo. Is it an older model ? I've heard of the 727 in the 1/10 scales and those are older too. Hmmm....man I gotta stop staying up past my bedtime !!!

[fasRC]

I have a question. Is the Hitec 615 mg servo pretty good for this car??? And do i need two good servos for this car or only one for the steering?

Thanks.

[teamted2]

YYEEESSS!!!! I got my mbx4-rr today!!! It is awesome!!! Now i just need a radio. I am thinking about taking some of the stuff apart to see how looks for future reference, do you guys have a particular order that i should take it apart? Also, one of the bodies mounting holes doesnt fit on the car-is there a way i can adjust this?

[maxxxracer]

Mak the 2 series is the older one, I have the set and they are amazing servos. The 3 series are the new ones. The 257 has a transit time of .09. You might want to check the stats on the 357 because i think it is also .09. I could be mistakin. I will check the site and get back.

Cobra, dont say anything if you dont know what your talking about.

[makaluch]

Thanks Maxx ! I was also wondering about the 700 series. A buddy of mine has,...I believe,...a 757 (??). It's SUPERFAST, but I can't find it on the Airtronics site. Is this an older one also ? I know it's a tough question when I'm not even sure what the exact number is:( maybe 752 ???

I'll stop now before I show my inexperience ! LOL.

[teamted2]

Come on guys, lets all just get along-you're all acting like babies!!!:D Anyway, i was just wondering what oils to use in the shocks, and what oils to use in the diffs. Also, what is that black wire-type thing on the back of the car that loops arounf the bulkhead or something???

Thanks alot
Teddy

[makaluch]

Okay, since this is such a hot subject,...I've got another servo question. Anybody have the specs on an Airtronics 94742. I looked on the Airtronics site and couldn't find it. I think it's no older than 3 years. A buddy has one that he pulled from a Losi and replaced it with a faster one. Any info out there ?:confused:

[maxxxracer]

Cobra I found out what is really going on here. When the servos were still being sold they had the 8 rated at 200oz and the 7 at 125, but then the new 3 series servos came out they downrated the 2 series to make the 3 series look better, to make people upgrade and not want the 2 series.

My other theroy is when they did the Z connectors they changed the servos, I have standad plugs on mine that I had airtronics convert to Z for me. Who knows, All i know is that the ratings on the servos were changed and that the servo is 200oz like everyone knows it really is and the 94257 is 125oz not 95 like they changed it to.

I hope this clears everything up.

[makaluch]

Anybody know the ratings on a 94742 ? It's an older one because I can't find it on their site.

Thing around the bulkhead is a swaybar. It restricts excessive body roll. You only need the fronts on high speed flatter tracks. I've been told to not run one up front if the track has ruts, kickers, etc. etc..

[maxxxracer]

Dont know anything about the servo, but the guy that told you, you should have the sway bar with the ruts is and idiot. You need it off for you suspension to react to the ruts and to soak them up evenly. It helps with steering beacuse you will always have one wheel on the groudn with some pressure with out the sway bar. With it it will want to take both wheels up when you hit a bump, thuss reducing the grip of the tires and you get less steering response. If that didnt make any sense to you, the bottom line is , smooth tracks have it, ruts and bumps dont have it.

[makaluch]

If you read it carefully, it says to NOT run the sway bar in ruts and rough tracks.

[maxxxracer]

Ummm, thats what i said.

[N2O Guy]

:) Hey guys glad to see this forums got so many XR owners..I love mine. So have any of you been breaking the rear shock shafts? Ive broken 8 so far...Cant help the need for major air:D Any how have any of you tried the 2 hole pistons and if so what weight oil? Im waiting on the new 3.5mm shocks to come in but im going to set my others up with various setups for different track conditions. Also Ill let you know on the aluminum clutch as well Im crazy enough to try one:D

[maxxxracer]

My prognosis is: Air Fever.

Sir you are breaking your shock shafts due to what is commonly called "air fever". It is very easily curable. All you need to do is have someone punch you in the stomach and take your radio away from you every time you go off a big jump. I about a week or so, you should be sooo scared of those jumps you will cringe in pain at the site of them.






Seriously, try thiner schock oil and biger holled pistons. I am fairly confiend that might werk, or you might want to try external limiters to dampen the blow on the shocks.

[Shawn_S]

lol good one maxxxracer, just don't find someone too strong or else he might break a rib:p

Can anyone please me a hand and help me out? I need to know the basics of how to use different diff fluid at different tracks.
Like to put in heavier fluid for a tighter track.

Also what to do about the diff wts. in the front, center, and rear diff?
I mean like is there a rule of thumb on how to keep an equal distance of the center diff the heaviest then the rear and then the front the lightest?

Like have the center diff 10000 rear 5000 and front 3000. Then for a faster tracker, center 5000 rear 3000 and front 1000.

Am I going in the right direction?

[maxxxracer]

I am about as lost as you are but i think i have the basics.

For techincal tracks you want it thinner because you want the diff to engage more to get around the tight turns faster.

For open tracks you can have it thicker because you dont want you diffs engaging when you are going down the strait and you make a slight steering correction.


For shocks thicker the less jumps and smoother
Thinner for lots of jumps and ruts and stuff.

[chance]

Hi Shawn, I think you are going the wrong way on the diff fluid. The light stuff goes in the rear, some people use 1000, while others use no fluid in the rear, just light grease. When using grease, just coat the parts, don't pack the housing and do remove the o-rings. For the center, 7000 is a good all around weight. Up front, start with 5000. This is as good a place to start as any and should keep the rear from coming around so easy till you learn the car and develop the number one thing needed to be quick with 1/8, throttle control.

[Shawn_S]

What hop-ups for a MBX-4 RR would you guys recommand? I already have a few, rear brace, alum tranny top brace, alum f&r lower arm mounts, rear CVDs, front universals, alum engine mounts, lightened flywheel, upgraded rear turnbuckles, Pro-line Crowd Pleazer body, I think thats it.

Also if you know of a good part for my buggy, do you know of a place I can order it from? Like a 1-800# or a website? Any help would be appreciated.

Shawn

P.S. I have a M8 with hitec 5945 steer and 5625 throt so that will not be a problem:D

[makaluch]

As far as hop-ups go,...I think you've pretty much got 'em all. You might want to try the Xr rear gear set. The major "upgrade" is the chassis, but it changes the lengths of the driveshafts coming from the center universal. It's the transfer of weight to the rear that improves the handling. Do you have the decomposable diff mount ? It helps cut maintenance time and makes working on the brakes a snap.

Diff weights

I've learned that the weight doesn't have as much to do with bumps and turns as it does with traction,...and style of course. A good rule of thumb is heavier oil when there's MORE traction and lighter when there's less. Generally the heaviest oil is in the center, then next is front and the lightest is in the rear. A simple explaination is this: Heavy center always gives you drive, the front pulls harder to "pull" you around turns and the rear follows the front.

Now, really thinking about these things,... the ratios between these 3 diffs is directly related to traction and how you drive through turns. Other things are a factor also. Suspension keeps the wheels on the ground (traction), and a race tuned motor with a heavy finger will emphasize differentiation...meaning make you spin REALLY hard and lose traction and drive.

Hope this makes sense to you guys. I've been doing alot of research and testing on how to know whether to go up or down with the weights. My Kanai *ducking from sticks and stones* has the Kanai diffs and feels a little strange. I've driven it alot lately and tested with different TSD fluids. My buddies all drive Mugens too so I pulled mine in and drove their 4 back to back. It's amazing how much difference there really is ! All Mugens setups are the same too. 40 up front with 2-holes and 25 rear...by the way we all land on the backsides of the jumps:) ...stock springs, arms level. Rebound adjustments(travel) ARE critical too. Enuf said...whew !!!...Mark

[Speedaholic]

How do you guys like the crowd pleazer body? Is it as durable as the stock? Do you guys have any good pictures of it? Also, i would like to see pictures of the tracks that you guys race at. I race at www.bigboystoysracing.com
Thanks, SPEEDAHOLIC

[Sponsored By Tyco]

makaluch,
do you have and part # for the decomposable diff mount?
And what is a XR rear gear set? Is it the rear diff for the XR?

[makaluch]

Center diff mount - #c0187a,c0187b Top2 and bottom2
Rear diff ring and pinion - #c0272ring(black), #c0273pinion(black)

The rear is underdriven in the XR's. Slightly less twitch in the long straights. You still need pretty good throttle control with the Mugen. 3000front/5000center/grease rear...a good start

[makaluch]

Well guys, it's been fun but I've made up my mind to sell the XR. I'm goin to the dark side...Kyosho. I couldn't resist a good deal and already have a Kanai I've been driving. They suit my style better. They seem more conservative in the handling department. The Mugen is for the aggressive styles...and does WELL when driven this way I might add ! I'll be posting it on EBAY when I get back from Oregon. I'll check in to see if I can lend a hand. I'll make a copy of the manual too so I can help out with part numbers and such. See ya !!...Mark:(

[Shawn_S]

makaluch,

Isn't this the decomposable diff mount?
MUGC0186 Decomposable Aluminum Center Differential Mount(purple) - RR/XR

[makaluch]

Very well could be Shawn. Those look like Horizon numbers. I was looking at the XR addendum to the RR manual. That's the stock manual...how it comes in the box. I apologize if I confused anyone. To be certain, you could try both part numbers in a search.

[NitroRacer10]

HEHE Oh no!! You are not going to ebay :) I will talk to you later Mark .....hope you got my email!!

[MISTERgadget]

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-4.jpg

Miami R/C raceway is proud to announce its first race! Come on sunday, november 25th, for the JLap thanksgving turkey race. Booby moore and team mugen USA will be there. saturday is practice day from 9 am to 5pm, and sunday registration is from 7:30 to 9 am, and racing starts at 11 am. Fees are 10 for practice and 10 for the race. It promises to be a great day, so come and show support for miami's first permanent rc off road track.

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-3.jpg

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-5.jpg

visit our website for more information, including rules and directions to the track.

Miami R/C Raceway Home (http://www.geocities.com/gadgetracing/miamirc)

[Speedaholic]

Wow gadget, that track looks really nice. Well, i am going to get to drive my RR for the first time on sunday. I am going to just use a crappy lynx AM. Over the winter, i will save up for a nice radio though. Well, tomorrow i am going to sears to pick up a 12 Volt battery for my charger and bump starter. I am so excited! Anyway, i ordered a new proline crowd pleazer body. I am going to paint it with the XXX Main large drip mask. I am going to have the drips blue, the main color red, and the back will be white. Notics the "red white blue" color selection. I will post pics when im done.

[baileym]

You will be pleased with the Proline body. The only thing to watch for is how it lines up the motor and the fuel tank cut-outs. They are a little bit off on some. Other than that, it is a really good body, and durable.

As for the broken shock shaft problem, it is a chronic problem with the XR for some reason. Even on tracks with no jumps, it causes a lot of prob's. A lot of guys believe that the shafts are too long. The remedy for this is to take the ball end off the end of the shaft and cut about 3 mm of the threads off. Then put the ball end back on all the way. This will allow less of the shock shaft to enter the shock body, and prevent the piston from hitting the top of the shock body.

As for the diffs, I never change the rear oil, unless the car is pushing really bad. I leave it at 750, or I change to 1000 to take away some traction. I adjust the front and the middle for different tracks. I put 10,000 or 12,500 in the middle for longer tracks, with lots of straights, and I put 5,000 in the front. For tight technical tracks where you need lots of turn-in, then change to 7,000 in the middle and 3,000 in the front.

[NitroRacer10]

Mathew...cut 3mm of FRONT AND REAR??? I have never had a problem yet but then again I just got my XR. Oh and did you get the new shocks yet? I am wondering if that will solve there problem but will have to spend damn near 100 bucks to do it YIKES!!!!! Also rumor is that EVENTUALLY once the older XR kits are close to being sold out the new kits WILL INCLUDE the new shocks and MAYBE the Aluminum clutch (which by the way works great :) )

[N2O Guy]

Yep the 3.5mm shafts are suppose to cure the problem. Ive got a friend who has them and the new clutch and both are awesome. Im waiting on the shocks now. Ive talked to alot of Mugen racers and most if not all of them have broken their fare share of them as well. The shafts are to small for real racing action. One of the fixes is to put in Ofna shafts (3.5mm). I got my OS RZB01 in and its fast on the starts and out of corners. Not quite as fast up top as the Ofna/Picco 01 but alot more explosive down low. Anyway how much did you guys pay for your aluminum clutch? I want to get one but last I spoke with mugen they were out.:(

[NitroRacer10]

N2O guy....where are you from????

[Speedaholic]

Well, i think that we should all have a moment of silence for makuluch. He has joined the darkside-kyosho. He was a good man, and will continue to be a good man, but he will be held back by the negative forces that kyosho will spring upon him. Well, it is time to say goodbye to makuluch. It will be hard. He helped us out with our problems, and did many good deeds in the world of Mugen. I just hope that he doesnt stay on the dark side forever. We're gonna miss you makaluch.

Anyway, i was wondering, do you think that mugen will release a new buggy next year? Will the RR be able to compete? I am getting worried that i got my RR way after it's prime, and i will have to upgrade next year:( Well, thanks
Teddy

[N2O Guy]

Im from East Texas. :D

[NitroRacer10]

I know for a FACT that if they do release one it will not be until around worlds time and that is this time next year. Even then it will debut at the worlds and probably won't be available to public for a time there after. But seriously don't look for a new kit for AWHILE. Why change a GREAT thing??? :) Don't worry about your RR, ever see results from overseas??? The RR is still near the top mixing it with XR and K cars regularly!!

[baileym]

I don't normally like to make personal attacks on Bulletin Boards, but N2O guy, could you please explain to me how it is that you plan for people to put a 3.5 mm shock shaft in a shock with o-rings and a case designed to take a 3 mm shaft?

Also how can you say that a 3 mm shaft is too small for real racing action when the last 5 world and national championships were won by cars using 3 mm shafts?

nitroracer10,

Just the rear. The fronts don't seem to have the same problem. Just remember that 3 mm is not very much. Don't go wacking a huge chunk off. Save your hundred bucks with this simple mod.

Speedaholic,

Just keep driving your RR. When you can drive every single lap in the same amount of time, then it is time to start upgrading. I drove my first two seasons with an Ultra GT LX. I sucked, but it had nothing to do with my car. LOL

[makaluch]

okay I took out the Xr just to make my final decision. I only got to run 1 1/2 tanks. Here's why:

In the XR's there's a joint shaft and a joint shaft pin in the universals. All the loctite in the world will not keep the pins in when the outside temps change radically. On the tuning tank I noticed the pins slipping out. I pulled the rears and loctited and let them sit while I ran the K car. On the second run the pin popped out and I lost the shaft and pin. The fix is relatively easy. CAREFULLY notch the pins slightly with a cutting wheel and note the notch on the side of the pin. Assemble as usual, but DO NOT torque the set screw too tight. Let the loctite sit overnight. The pin should not slide even under cold shrink.

So, after the 1/2 tank my decision still stands. I notched the universals throughout. All better ! 625 and shipping takes the buggy and motor. Wrong forum...sorry.

Hope I've helped ! I'll be checkin in from time to time.;) Mark

[N2O Guy]

Bailey.. No offense but maybe you should take a chill pill! Im merely trying to assist anyone who like myself is breaking shafts everytime they go race. In case you arent aware there are these little things called drill bits and if you have a drill press or machine shop like I do, then its not an issue(.5mm is so small). The Orings do fit as well. Guys running the long 3.5mm shafts rarely break. The 3mm snap. Ive broken 8 of them. Im no pro racer( just a local) and I dont know Kanai or any other world champion personally but Im almost certain his car comes with 3.5mm as do most others these days. My statement of real racing action wasnt intended to offend anyone with a smaller shaft but I like the bigger is better theory on my race cars. In all fairness its a length issue as well but, a larger long shaft will take more abuse and fix the premature breakage. Also this info was given to me by guys who are factory Mugen Racers(on another site they frequent so its not some redneck fix. Its what guys who beat the hell out of their cars are doing. The new shocks( you said are a waste of $$) also have a larger oil capacity which means you can go longer before rebuilds ,which is worth somthing to me as well. So you do what you want and leave me to what Im doing..... having fun Airing out my XR and passing on usable fixes to those that would like to.:D

[makaluch]

Okay Guys,...I'm thinkin that these posts are intended to get people thinking and working on their buggies. Askin questions too !

Everybody should feel like they can say or ask pretty much anything here without being bashed. And if not here,...then ask someone at the track or hobby shop. It'll get you involved with PEOPLE. After all, that's really what this hobby is about !There are a ton of upgrades out there, and even more preferences and modifications. It's just advice and some ideas that we're throwin around.

I think trying to get people to clarify and explain what was said is more productive than just slammin the door on the info. :D

[baileym]

Sorry if I came off as a jerk back there. I just see so much disinformation out on the web, and it causes people to waste their money.

On the shock issue, I race at a pretty high level here in Europe, and no one is using bigger shock shafts. They all run the originals cut 3 mm shorter. As for the rebuild issue, that is a non-issue for most of us. I rebuild all four shocks and all three diffs every other race weekend. I am a maintenance fanatic. I usually strip my car to the bare chassis twice a month, and rebuild everything.

As for drilling out the shock bodies to take the bigger shafts, you have to make sure you do it perfectly, or else the shocks won't be very smooth. Also make sure there are no burrs left over, or they will scar the shock shaft, and destroy the o-rings.

Question though, what about the plastic rings between the o-rings? Do you also drill those out? Also, since the o-rings fit tightly in the shock body, how do they expand outwards when you shove a bigger shaft in there than they were designed to take? Do you also drill the shock piston to take the the bigger shaft, and how are you supposed to get the hole perfectly centered so that the shock doesn't bind?

[Speedaholic]

Ok guys. I have been trying to find the right size hex-driver for those stupid pivot balls. None seem to fit right If you guys could tell me exactly what size, it would be greatly appreciated. Also: I have scanned a complete manual into my computer, and it is great quality. If anybody wants a copy, i would be glad to send them one. I would need to send it in pairs of 2 pages at a time so i dont over fill your mailbox. THANKS
Teddy

[Shawn_S]

N2O Guy, why don't the Factory Mugen drivers just have the new complete 3.5mm shocks? It would see like they would be the ones using them.

[N2O Guy]

Shawn..It was only a fix to the problem before the new ones were available. Given the choice it is definately better to go with the new shocks IMO. But you have to realize the new shocks were not available before 2 months ago.<<< I believe this is right? So guys will do whatever appears to be the fix. Mugen took notice to the problem and created a fix by way of bigger shock shafts that wont bottom out. Oh Speedaholic the pivot ball size is 2.5mm and the ball cap is 5mm. Try a home depot in the tools section. You will probably have to buy a complete set but you can probably use em anyhow.

[baileym]

I was talking to a couple of our team drivers, and we figured out a mod for the radio tray that will help to lower the overall center of gravity on the car. First remove the radio tray from the chassis. Cut exactly 3 mm of the post off. This will envolve a little more work with the aluminum radio posts, but still worth it. The only problem then is where it is fixed on the receiver box. You then need to remove 3 mm from the top of the mount on the receiver box. This will lower the entire radio plate by three mm.

The only thing left to do after this is to make sure that your throttle linkage still clears the receiver battery mount. If it doent, then simply cut a small portion of the plastic away at a time until it clears.

This mod will not make the car any faster on the straights, but it will keep the car tighter in the corners, and eliminate some of the body roll. This will be more noticable in high speed corners, and sweepers.

[makaluch]

Baileym - what do you do about the brake linkage ? I was thinking about how the brakes drag and bind if the rods are not straight into the loops. Just crimp a bend into the rods ? What tool can control how much rise in the crimp ? Or are there lifters for the servo horns ?:confused: Hmmm. That one got my wheels spinnin.

[baileym]

I actually didn't do anything to compentsate for it. They don't bind right now, but you could just bend them to correct any binding you find.

[baileym]

Also if you are looking to shave a few grams from your ride, cut the top 5mm from the top of the plastic side guards. The body covers this area anyways, so it is still protected. I also drilled 6 10mm holes in the bottom of the guards. This will allow a little more air flow on the tuned pipe, and it also shaves a few grams. If you have a race when it is muddy, simply put a piece of Duct Tape over holes on the inside of the car. It is still lighter than stock.

[makaluch]

baileym - woa ! Those are SERIOUS racer's tips,...lol. I'm not good enough to worry about shavin weight everywhere yet:( It's good to have some ideas about where though. Maybe someday I'll get good enough to use it !LOL

Well guys...I'm officially a non-Mugen guy. Buggy's sold. If any of you guys are from around Dallas Texas you might see it ! I'll be around though. Talk again soon !;) Mark

[baileym]

Even if you aren't fast enough to see any advantage gained from it, you will look fast in the pits. Just remember if you can't be good, at least look good.

[makaluch]

:D :) :rolleyes: :( :mad: I'm so far behind I think I'm in first !!! LOL

[10beers]

car : xr

1. cut the battery post 3mm . it lowers the battery down to the chas.

2. lower the radio plate as previously explaind

3. cut 3mm of the gas tank post

4. this is for the hardcore. rotating mass the diffs
a. cut 3mm off the diff cases. just the front and back not the center
b. dremel out the chas. so the cronical gear will fit
this is real tight so go real slow check and recheck
this makes this car twice as aggresive. and it will out corner a kyosho any day:D

[baileym]

I don't recommend the middle diff mod, simply because I have seen it done wrong a lot.

[Speedaholic]

Hey guys! Well, today we can welcome a new Mugen'er to the clan. His name is verylowbudgetracer, and he just got his RR. Im sure he'll post here soon...

[very low budget racer]

Hey I just got my RR, but I belive it all up to XR specs except the chassis. Is the Hudy board the best way to set up thse mugen's? and where can I order one?

[very low budget racer]

what's the point of cutting the diff case? mine has been lowered, but what does it do?

[makaluch]

Push the buggy to the left from the top of the diff,...then push from the center of the wheel. Notice how the body rolls. Your finger just simulated a right turn. That's what lowering the center of gravity does...lessens body roll. Camber changes at different rates when the body rolls depending on center of gravity and what position your camber links are in at the rear shock tower.

Hope I didn't confuse you.

And,...I've never heard of using a Hudy board. Arms level all around works fine. Drop it from six inches and be sure the suspension returns to level.

The XR chassis is the best improvement you can make to the RR.

[baileym]

The Hudy set-up system is wonderful. I have one, and it saves a ton of time getting the correct toe-in and camber set. Plus, it is really accurate(unlike my previous eye-ball method). As for the XR chassis, just remember to order the new center driveshafts if you buy the chassis.

[very low budget racer]

Alright, X-mas come early, i got a OFNA P4 engine (don't laugh, ts only temporary, it will go in the t-maxx later) Glow starter, duratrax gold glow plugs, multi wrench, CA, RX switch a gal of nitro. I had to cut the engine mounts to allow the p/s backplate and i had to dirll new holes in the engine tabs, but its all worth it. Speedaholic, lets take it to the track eh? Your RR Vs mine, hehehehehehehehehe :D

[makaluch]

Does the Hudy board have guages to set camber AND toe ??? I use an RPM camber guage, but I use a camber guage on the wall to adjust toe...if the Hudy setup is easier I'll definately look into it.

Does it also allow you to balance the chassis ? I thought about using scales under each wheel to measure and adjust balance and weight transfer. It's just not practical though. Scales that small and with any accuracy are just too expensive !

[baileym]

The hudy can set toe and camber, but no balancing. The only really good way to do that is with scales. The only real draw back to the hudy system is cost. The usually run aroud 100 bucks. Look on E-bay for them though. They can usually be had there.

[very low budget racer]

I think I will spring for the XR conversion kit, NitroHouse has them for 120 + shipping so its that, and a 2peka radio, or a hitec 5645 and a 5625 digital servo. I think my servo's are fine though, so I will probably go for the FM radio.

[DLF]

I ordered my Mugen MBX4 xr works today. I have many years of 10th scale electric off road experience under my belt. Stock, modified...2wd and 4wd. I even have some .12 gas truck experience. However, the 1/8ty scale 4wd's seem to be a far cry from all that. Simply seems to be a different design rational envolved (gear diffs, etc).

With that, do any of you guys have any tips for an old dog r/c racer getting into a new relf of the sport? Set-up? Assembly? Is there anything I should be looking for while building? Is there anything else I need to have to start putting her togeather besides tools, shock oils, etc? Thanks allot guys.

Dana F

[baileym]

DFL,

First off, congratulations on buying a great kit

Second, LOCTITE is your friend. Use it on all the screws that go into a metal part. The exception on this is parts of the motor or the motor mounts.

I suggest you buy a set of calipers. The suspension is very adjustable, but it needs to be set-up evenly on both sides, or the car will steer erratically.

I also suggest you look at finding a better antennae mount than the one in the kit. It is pretty awful.

Other than that, just take your time and assemble carefully. Pay special attention to getting the diffs smooth. Don't over-tighten the screws that hold the diffs together. It will make the diffs have a notchy feel to them.

Also make sure that all the suspension arms and pivots swing freely. Make sure that you don't overtighten the caps that hold the front hub carriers to the pivotballs, or the entire front suspension will bind pretty badly.

[DLF]

Thanks Baileym. I learned how valuable loctite is on 10th scale nitro stuff.

I've got a set of calipers but never even thought to use them for setting up the suspension on any of my cars. I'll have to keep that in mind.

I'll keep in mind everything else you've said.

Thanks alot.

Dana F

[10beers]

YOU CUT THE 3MM OFF THE BOTTOM OF THE DIFF CASES SO THAT THE DIFF LOWERS 3MM AND THEN YOU DREMEL OF THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASI TO ACCEPT THE CRON GEAR THIS LOWERS THE ROTATING MASS OF THE DIFFS THIS MAKES THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE OF ALL THE MODS. BUT DON'T DO THE CENTER DIFF .
IT WILL SCREW UP THE CENTER DRIVE. BUT WOW IT'S A BIG DIFFERENCE. HOPE THAT CLEARS IT UP:cool:

[very low budget racer]

Alright thanks, I finally got the clutch mounted today, and with a 16t clutch bell (I think) and my just broken in OFNA P4 this thing has some balls, spins the tires alot so I gotta get used to throttle controll, not like t-maxx where u just mash the trigger to go. And with a standard servo I can lock up the tire on braking, I can't imagine why anyone needs a hi-torque servo for brakes. But this is rediculously fast, I havent even gone full throttle yet because the snow just slows the car down alot. This mugen clutch is one of the best I have run too, it grabs, even when hot I cant notice much slipping. Any good ways to clean a snow covered car? a hairdrier blew the fuse in my work shop, so I have it on a ramp and sprayed the metal stuff with WD-40 and am waiting for it to dry, in an hour I'll go back and spray it down again.

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Originally posted by very low budget racer
Alright thanks, I finally got the clutch mounted today, and with a 16t clutch bell (I think) and my just broken in OFNA P4 this thing has some balls, spins the tires alot so I gotta get used to throttle controll, not like t-maxx where u just mash the trigger to go. And with a standard servo I can lock up the tire on braking, I can't imagine why anyone needs a hi-torque servo for brakes. But this is rediculously fast, I havent even gone full throttle yet because the snow just slows the car down alot. This mugen clutch is one of the best I have run too, it grabs, even when hot I cant notice much slipping. Any good ways to clean a snow covered car? a hairdrier blew the fuse in my work shop, so I have it on a ramp and sprayed the metal stuff with WD-40 and am waiting for it to dry, in an hour I'll go back and spray it down again.

which mugen clutch did you get? The alum. one?

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Also VLBR, watch out for the Hitec servos, there plastic cases are very soft. Accidently overtighened my 5945 :(

[NITROntheBLOOD]

Hey was wondering what the diffrence is between the MBX and the MBX-XR ?????????
I have the MBX and I have had several problems with it and all I have heard is GOOD THINGS but all I have experinced is BAD THINGS also does anyone know of any hop-up I can do to this car to make it better........ already have changed shock oil to 60 and going with the stiffer springs hoping nothing else goes wrong
SGT MILLS
US ARMY

[ronin8451]

Hey guys!! I just got a new MBX4 Xr off e-bay and man it's great! Only thing is that this car proves that some people should not be building their own cars!! The guy built all the shocks wrong, cross threaded one of the front shock caps, then he used pliers (ouch) on the shock body to tighten it up ( partially distorting it). The guy must not have looked at the instructions at all, cause there are wrong screws everywhere ( c-sinks on top of radio tray with cap heads in chassis bottom). After three long nights of total dissasembly and re-assembly it's together!!. I installed my trusty Rex BR21 and the new Dynamite 1pc. pipe and it rips!!! Has anyone tried the new 3.5mm shocks yet? I've looked around the net and noticed that I can get them for about $10.00 cheaper a pair than the 3mm shaft ones. I need to replace the fronts (see above for why) and would like some input . This is my 5th 1/8th scale buggy and it looks to be the best yet ( my first was in '94 with a Pirate M1 with a Ron Paris mod Rex 350, talk about stripped diffs!!!).

[n2o]

Hello.. I am about to buy a 1/8th scale and I'm pretty sure I want the MBX4 Works. IF all of you guys had the chanse to start over again and pick a new buggy. Would you all still buy the MBX or would you go with say the storm or the MP7.5?

I know this is the MBX forum but I would just like some tips on getting the best buggy.

I have an RC10GT maxed out with just about every trinity/mugen part and a 1.35HP .12 Nova engine. I also have a Losi XXX KE with all of the go fast goodies made for it. Both are controlled with an M8 and high torque high speed servos.

In my 1/0th scale racing I had a chanse to drive the B3 and the XXX.. The XXXNT and the RC10GT.. And I think the XXX is a way better car than the B3 not only in handling but in over all performance. And I found the GT to be a little easyer to get around the track with an over powered engine than the XXXNT.

I'm pretty sure in the 1/8th scale world there are ones that are just better than others in sertin areas.

Well any ideas would be great.. thanks

-n2o

[Speedaholic]

N20-
The mugen XR and 7.5 are both awesome cars, but the mugen has the edge in my oppinion. The reason for this is that it has tons of hopups right out of the box. The 7.5 does not have any hopups out of the box. If i were you, id go with the XR, but you should probably try out both if you can before you buy it.

[XR Mugen]

n2o:

My XR is my third 1/8th scale. My first car was a Kyosho MP-6 which I bought new and assembled as a kit. I ran a 5 port RB and I thought the car was fabulous! I also bought and restored a Mugen Super Athlete which I later sold to a guy so his son could have a car also. Between the two, the MP-6 was obviously vastly superior. Well, later, I wanted something else so I foolishly sold the MP-6. I have now had the XR for 7 months or so and I love it! I feel that it is a better engineered, better driving car. It was easier to assemble and I think it is a much better car for me. No offense to all the Kyosho guys out there..... Kyosho makes great cars, I just like the Mugen a lot more! As an aside, I am now looking to add a used MP 7.5 Kanai to the collection. I guess the point to my rambling post here is that I think you will be really happy no matter which car you get! And if you are like me and constantly curious, you will probably end up with both.

Good luck and remember, RB motors are the only way to go!

[DLF]

Ok, my XR came with one hole pistons...unlike the two hole that everyone is talking about. It also came with #350 oil...which I have no clue whatsoever what weight that is. I've decided to start with AE 30 wt. Does this seem right? And what weigth does #350 convert to? Thanks.

Dana F

[makaluch]

Buy both...Amen.

If I'm not mistaken the 350 shock oil translates into 28-31 wt depending on the temperature of the fluid. Losi shock oils tend to be more consistent throughout the usable temp ranges...whew.

Moral of the story is...35 or 40 up front and 25 out back. The two holes felt better to me(40front/25rear). With the two hole pistons I noticed that rebound adjustments were more critical and I raised the ride height to level plus a #2 spacer out back.

Good luck ! It's really driver preference when it comes to suspension too.

[DLF]

I was wondering if everyone was actually using the clutch shoe springs on your Mugens. I know many cars don't have them and I've heard some say they don't use them if they did. I was wondering where everyone stood on the Mugen. Thanks.

Dana F

[Speedaholic]

DLF- ummmmm, ya i definately use clutch springs. The shoes dont have to travel far at all, so w/o the springs, the clutch would be engaged constantly and the car would bog down alot and stall when braking. Just my 19 cents

[DLF]

Even after trimming the shoes? I'm not trying to discredit your response, I'm just wondering to what extent it has been tyred. Has anyone tryed trimming the shoes with the spring?

Dana F

[XR Mugen]

This may be rather ignorant of me but I cannot see how the clutch could ever disengage properly without some kind of spring system. Seems like one of the shoes would always be rubbing and or dragging on the bell causing the bell to get way hotter than it should be. My stock clutch has been working great although I have been thinking about trying out the 4 shoe clutch by Nuova Faor on the National RC site. Anyone tried that yet?
Just my two cents here.........:cool:

[Speedaholic]

Ya, the NF clutch looks cool. My freind bought a fioroni sliding clutch, but i dont think he got to use it. I heard they are the best though... Has anybody tried the clutch with the metal shoes? I bet it would be noisy. Anyhoo, i am having some brake issues with the mugen. It just wont stop. I am beginning to think that the brake pads may be worn. Where can i get replacements, or better yet, can i do anything for more bite? THanks

[n2o]

XR Mugen... Thats how most clutches work though. The stock clutch that came with my FT RC10GT was a drager and it was alwayse pulling even at super low idle. SO I got the MIP clutch with the coil spring that goes around it and now it works way better.

-n2o

[makaluch]

Speedaholic - Trust me when I tell ya ...it's your servo. Pull the brakes manually. If they work good by hand then your pads are ok. Also, take note to the angle that your servo is trying to pull the brake arm. I bend my rear brake arm to allow the linkage to pull straight...or close to straight if the pads are worn. It can't hurt to slap a new set of pads on though. www.nationalrc.com

;) Mark

[Speedaholic]

YESSSS! There is a new person in the "mugen club"! He just got his XR today. His name is stormperson.

[DLF]

Wait a minute! I got mine last week. In fact, it's sitting behind me right now...all cealn and wondring when it's gunna feel the cool dirt of the track! :D

Dana F

[baileym]

I just picked up a new set of Lunsford turnbuckles and kingpins, and these things are so nice. The car is much easier to adjust than with the normal turnbuckles. They definately receive two thumbs up from me.

[DLF]

Just wondering if anyone knew the difference between the two rear hub carriers that came with the XR. The book says nothing as why you would use one over the other. And I can't recall which I'm using now.

Dana F

[DLF]

I'm trying to use the Dyanamite box I bought second hand. It isn't working. It seems to me that the chassis hole isn't long enough...or maybe the hole edges need to be tapered. What the 1/8th scal Dynamite box? That one any better?

Dana F

[baileym]

DLF

The starter box problem is a fairly common one. Just take a dremel, or a file and round off the edges of the hole a bit, and the wheel should fit better. Keep taking a little at a time until it fits.

As for the rear Hub carriers, One has 6 holes, and the other has three. The one with three holes should handle a little better on rough tracks because the bearings sit a little lower in the carrier. Plus the upper arm is better aligned with this carrier, due to the offset from the mounts.

[baileym]

The six hole mount has the advantage of more mounting positions. Most of the guys I race with are using just the three hole carrier, unless they really need the extra holes.

[BuggyBoy]

im thinking about buying a MBX XR works
anybody got one for sale? trying to get rid of my custom solid aluminum duratrax maximum ST hehe just stuck 1100 into it and its all going for trade for a MBX XR works rolling chassis w/ some hopups or cash nobody wants it tho its all brand new

[DLF]

Is everyone sleeping? Or do you guys have the Mugen so right there's nothing to talk about? :D

Dana F

[DLF]

Test

Dana F

[DLF]

Thought I'd post a pic or two before she got dirty. :D

Dana F

[DLF]

Hmmm...by the time you get it small enough to be accepted, it's too small. What's the trick?

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

my XR works should be here in a few days :)

use the ofna 10250 or whatever starter box best one you could own

[DLF]

Ok, I know it's normal for the diffs to leak, but my rear diff seems to be leaking just sitting. The car has had a singe, very easy run for engine break-in and that's it. Is this much leakage normal?

Dana F

[NitroRacer10]

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1689343425&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1011233149&indexURL=0&rd=1

Moving to touring cars. Nothing is wrong with this and only raced once!!

[BuggyBoy]

i seen that nitro racer i emailed you a question lol i want tires for my XR

[jasonrcfreak]

Greetings,
I'm getting an RR in a trade, and I was wondering what the main differences are between the two. I know in the XR, the motor is mounted further back, but I was wondering what else is different. How much of it is eye candy and how much really makes a differnce. The RR I'm getting has G1 stiffeners on it and some other hops. National RC has a conversion kit for the RR to the XR. Is it worth it??
Thanks,
Jason

[Shawn_S]

Does anyone know where I can buy the alum clutch for the mugen online? Also would a light-weight flywheel work with the clutch? Thanks
Shawn

[Shawn_S]

Originally posted by baileym
I just picked up a new set of Lunsford turnbuckles and kingpins, and these things are so nice. The car is much easier to adjust than with the normal turnbuckles. They definately receive two thumbs up from me.

I as well feel these are very stout pieces.

[BuggyBoy]

Call JR @ ace hobbies thats where i get all my stuff pretty much
i got the al clutch shoes and all that 13 tooth bell gear make sure you get the black springs w/ the alu clutch shoes

i also just ordered G1 industires all of his 3 parts they gonna rock then i got graphite radio tray and alu radio tray posts

[DLF]

Just wondering what steering servos you guys were running. I know I want an Airtronics servo but not sure which. My standard servo did last two tanks. :D

Anyway, I've got a 94737 servo here but although it has metal gears, is only a high speed servo. The one I'm leaning towards is the 94757. This one is is high speed-high torque wih metal gears. Anyway, input? Thanks.

Dana F

[BuggyBoy]

i run a hitec HS-5945MG only $90 and they are super servos

[Shawn_S]

I think everyone has seen the pic, but what the hell

[BuggyBoy]

mine looks cooler :) and weighs 20 lbs less

[Shawn_S]

Originally posted by BuggyBoy
mine looks cooler :) and weighs 20 lbs less

so , at least mine's installed and looks like I actually use it :p :p

BTW, did u get the blue metal arm with it?

[BuggyBoy]

i am waiting on a bunch of parts for my XR yet but i bet mine will waste yours in a race :P

[Shawn_S]

Originally posted by BuggyBoy
i am waiting on a bunch of parts for my XR yet but i bet mine will waste yours in a race :P

no cuz yours can't even move right now :p

did u get the blue alum servo arm?

[BuggyBoy]

yes i did but i dont use it i got ofna heavy duty nylon servo horns


what motor and other stuff you running in yours?

[jasonrcfreak]

hello there!!
I was wondering if anyone knows if Fioroni makes parts for the Mugen RR buggy?? If so, where can I get these parts??
Also, if you have used the Fioroni stuff, does it make a difference.....or is it mainly eye candy.
thanks
Jason :D

[BuggyBoy]

Jason yes fioroni parts rock there chassis are the best and everything id suggest going all fioroni but then getting racing hardcore titanium shock towers
if you drive really really hard you will bend the stock mugen chassis the fioroni is cheaper then the stock mugen chassis to replace and its also 80 times better i think a fioroni is like $10 less

[jasonrcfreak]

Where can I get the Fioroni stuff from?? any suggestions??
Thanks
Jason :D

[BuggyBoy]

ummm cal JR @ ace hobbies @ 1-800-383-2657 he doesnt have it on his site but i know he can get it probably will have to order it tho

btw they have like 4 different chassis like hard and light or long and light etc...
aslo get the torque bars you can lookup the stuff at http://www.generalsilicones.com/mugenoptparts.html


and for the best shock towers
http://www.racinghardcore.com/hcr_mugen_mtx2/mbx4xr/shock_tower_rear.html
http://www.racinghardcore.com/hcr_mugen_mtx2/mbx4xr/shock_tower_front.html

they are over $40 but well worth it they are titanium exelent parts

[Shawn_S]

buggy boy, heres a list
Current Specs:
RR chassis
Rex BX.21S BK enigne (includes boost chamber)(~2.4hp)
Ofna One-Piece Pipe
Airtronics M8 radio system with super mirco receiver
Hitec 5945MG steering servo
Hitec 5625MG throttle servo
Pro-line tires on Mugen rims (multi-sets)
Pro-line Crowd Pleazer body
Mugen Starter Box

Current Upgrades:
Lunsford Turnbuckles
Lunsford Hingepins
Mugen Upgrade alum rear brace
GS Racing fuel tubing
Rear CVA axles
Front Universal Joints


I hopin to get some more stuff pretty soon.
U can checkout some more pics of it at my website, under Mugen MBX-4 RR.

[RC10gter2]

Makaluch... what is Nationalrc, and how can I find more about it. Thanks in advance, Matt