Associated RC10GT Forum v1.0

[Gokou]

If you run on-road only, lower the truck with spacers in the shocks. Limiting the shock travel will really help on-road performance. Put spacers on the shock shaft inside the shock body to limit downtravel, and on the shaft outside the shock body to limit upwards travel. You don't need much travel onroad, and limiting shock movement will help in the traction department. You'll get better results limiting shock movement than adding sway bars. Another tip: if you run on-road only try the 10 or 15 degree caster blocks. They help steering response immensely on-road. I personally run 10 degree blocks on-road.

As for tires; besides foams, I run Road Rage IIs. I haven't really tried anything else though. I do like the Road Rage IIs for on-road if I don't use my foams.

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-08-2001).]

[Railman]

On the issue of RPM arms they are indestrctable. However that doesn't mean that they are the best! What is your priority? If you want the best handling arm go for grafite, no flex but break easily, & gets expensive to replace all the time. If you want indesructable but handle poorly in rough condition use RPM. If you want good duability with good handling use the newer stock ones ( improved plastic about 1 1/2+- yrs ago). Goku runs his truck mostly on smooth sufaces & the RPM's make sense for him. I used to use RPM arms (too long), untill I finaly realized they acted a lot like wet noodles & flexed like crazy!! The Rpm rear bulhead is another story. I like these better than the aluminum ones, Can't break them, are rock solid, & very reasonable. They are definately an improvement over stock, but would not change until the stock one breaks. Hope this helps in your decision making.

[Gokou]

Railman makes a good point. Part of the reason the RPMs are so tough is that they flex. The newer associated arms are stiffer than the RPMs, but break more easily. Personally I prefer the durability over the more consistent in the rough handliing. Keep in mind also the RPM front arms are a hair wider than stock (why, I don't know); you'll need to readjust linkages. I still have 4 or so sets of the newer associated arms in my toolbox. If my truck started handling really erratic to the point I couldn't keep it under control in the rough changing back to the associated arms would be one of the first things I try.

[fasteddie911]

thanks gokou, i have already done many of htose mods you listed plus a lot more. You know, i was thinking that i could buy buggy wheel adapters, and then put on some buggy slicks that they sell at ace-hobbies.com, what you think about that? Also, has anyone ever run the hpi v grooves? how did it handle?

[Bodido]

I have the V-groove tires for my GT. I've never really set up my truck for on road, so I can't really say how good they are. I just slap em on and do speed runs in front of my house. Basically I have no rear traction. My rear tires have been soaked in nitro. Let's hope that helps some. Is it easy to set it up so my GT has more balanced handling on-road (less dramatic oversteer)?

I was thinking of putting together another set of shocks to use on-road only. Maybe use heavy oil (50-60wt ?), internal limiters, stiff springs, etc...
Maybe even get 10-15 degree carrier blocks with steering blocks and axles. Then I could go from an off-road to on-road setup without TOO much hassle.

There's a track/hobby shop nearby that runs 1/10 gas truck. They alternate every weekend: One weekend off-road, the next on-road. Looking to get in on the fun. If anyone knows any good on-road setup tips for my GT, feel free to post away.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I can't get the idle setting to stay consistant on my OS .12 CV-X. I have the spring under the idle needle, but the idle always seems to change, and open the carb more and more throughout my runs. What's going on?

[Railman]

Two scearios: One is that the air blead, (idle screw is partialy stripped or if not stripped , too loose to stay put. I had this happen once on a very used CV. What I did was to put a little (LITTLE!) blue (med strength) loctite on the threads, run the screw in, then remove. Allow to set for maybe 15 ->30 minites or so, then reinsert. This worked very well for me. The other possibility is that you have air leaks. One of the most common ones is at the base of the carb. You must hold carb down very securly while snugging the pinch bolt to get the o ring compressed for a good seal. I personall RTV these areas, The carb base, the butsink, the small washer behind the flywheel (!/32"bead on center bearing race ->crank). Some also do the fuel nipple, but I have not done this as I don' seem to get air ileaks on my engines. There have been some good articles in recent RCCA mags recently on the subject of sealing. If you have a pullstart this could also be part of your problem as there is no good way to totaly stop air leaks @ it's bronze bushing. hope this helps.

[TRXboy]

Trust me, i need durability, Even RPM's strength isent enough for me sometimes. And i dont race i just bash really hard...

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Railman, I tried screwwing the needle all the way in, and it still had the same effects. I'll try to loctite it. TRXBoy, if you're jumping with them, I think the RPM's will serve you well.

[fasteddie911]

weel, i am a believer that 80% of onroad handling for hte gt is from the tires, so that is why i am tryign to find the best tires without having to buynew ones every time i run my car(foams), but once i find them, watchout because my gt will be carving corneres like no tomorrow.

[TRXboy]

Jump? Whats a jump?

[JP]

Oh here we go with RPM...

[Railman]

RC10GT, do you have good compresion? Poor compresion will cause those symptoms. Does it get worse as the engine heats up? There is a new, just released Duratrax chrome bore piston & sleave available now ($28+-),that sounds like it's a winner. These should prove to be much more durable than the stock nickle bores, probably giving 2->3 times the life of stock. Need to define symptoms and senario, how old, how much fuel, how hard to turn over with finger when hot, operating temp, what type & % fuel, to be of further help. Let us know.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Railman, my engine has had 2 quarts of 20% Blue Thunder through it, and hasn't been run hard at all. Still kind of hard to turn the flywheel over by hand. I've run this engine at the track twice, but usually stay in my backyard (which is all dirt), or my diveway and lawn. Thanks for the info on the chrome sleeves. Have yall seen the OS .12 CV's that are different colors? I found some at www.radiomodels.com.au (http://www.radiomodels.com.au) They come like this:
red head/red crankcase
grey head/grey crankcase
navy head/navy crankcase
They are like $10 more. I like the red and grey ones.

[Railman]

Disregard (double posted)

[This message has been edited by Railman (edited 04-08-2001).]

[n2o]

Hey guys, thanks for the replys on my suspension problems. As soon as I get my body painted I will head to the track and try some stuff and let you know how it went.. Pretty much, my GT just has to much power for it's own good.. I have ProLine Speed Hawgs that I run in school parking lots just for high speed fun sometimes. I can punch it about 3/4 throttle and give it full steer and the front wheels will turn but the truck goes in a nice straight line. I get no steering what so ever until I get off the throttle. It does pretty much the same thing on the dirt track but at WAY less throttle. I have to slide into the turns and kick the rear end out or I wont make it through the turns.

Like I said, the suspension setup is right out of the book. All I changed was #1 pistons in the front and #2's in the back with 35wt oil. I guess I'll change that around and see if it helps. I was just going on what the guy at my LHS said.

atm92484: That sounds like a pretty good idea. However, I think I will try some other things first to see if I can fix it that way. Because this truck is for racing only and I dont want to add weight unless I have to

Bodido: I have the JR-XR3 radio so it's whatever servo that came with it. The steering seams to be fine, it's just that the tires dont hook up.

I got some 25' caster blocks I am going to try this weekend, maybe that will work?? thanks guy!

-n2o

[Railman]

N2O, Put 3/4->1 1/2 oz in the front. It helps a lot, most guys do this. I like mine in front of servo, favoring thr rt. side.

I asked around in the pits on Saturday (at a very competitive track), what clutch setups people where using, & if anyone used the #3 setup (leading shoe). They looked at me like I was crazy! ( as I would have also.) Everyone said #2(trailing with weights), works perfect for offroad, stop & go type tracks, why use anything else? I bet part of your push problem comes from the clutch not releasing soon enough , which will not allow the necessary weight transfer to the front end, resulting in pushing. Also make sure that you have idle speed down to a minimum. Another critical factor is proper drag brake setup. When the brake is right it will throw some weight to the front & allow the back to drift a little, without being under power. To much brake will result in a spinout. This is one of the hardest things to get set perfect but makes a huge difference in turning. The brake should fully release before the throttle starts to open, if not it will result in a spinout exiting the turn. Let me know how things progress.

Put the weight in!

[n2o]

Hey railman.. I wish you lived in texas, I want to check out your truck.. I guess I was confused on the setups. I am running #2, I have trailing edege with both weights in. The clutch works great.. When I took it to the track and had the nasty under steer. I still had the stock clutch on. Also, my brake is set so at 0 throttle there is NO brake what so ever. it just roles.. I guess I should trim that down a tad?? So I want it to apply a SMALL amount of brake at 0 throtlle? Thanks alot for the help!! I'm about to get this setup dialed in!

-n2o

[Railman]

N2O, the brakes should be slightly applied when your radio trigger is in the neutral position. Too much & your truck will spin out entering the turn. Too little & it won't turn as well. I would highly recomend going to a coreless steering servo. Check around site for different opinions, I use JR4735, JR4750 is the improved new version. This is the biggest improvement you can make to steering and driving ability. It is night and day different. .08->.15 speed (depends on how coservative specs are) and 90->110 oz torque. But it has to be coreless to perform. The stock throttle servo is fine. Good luck.

Put the weight in!

[This message has been edited by Railman (edited 04-09-2001).]

[n2o]

Cool man, thanks for the help! I have a ton of mods on my GT and was looking for that next 'must have'... Guess I'll get the servo and temp gun next. I am planning to go to the track this weekend so I'll let you know how it went. Do you think those 25' casters will help or hurt my setup? Also, should I swap pistons/oil and springs? I know it's hard to tell with out seeing the track. but the track I race on is hard compacted and dusty with sharp high jumps and tight turns. I'll let you know how it runs and we'll go from there I guess..

-n2o

[atm92484]

n2o, when RCCA did the Nitro Truck Shootout the GT weighted the least out of the three trucks tests; its self, the XXXNT, and the Ultima ST.

GT-63.64 oz
XXXNT-67.68 oz
Ultima-64 oz

RCCA even said that the extra weight of the XXXNT "helped keep the nose down".

[This message has been edited by atm92484 (edited 04-09-2001).]

[JP]

I tried something today that I never would have thought of...I moved the batteries on top of the steering servo. I have never noticed soo much difference in handling or jumping straight with ANY hop-up with ANY car. Its perfect, I dont even have to level out anymore in the air, and steering is great!

I also had my GT clocked by a radar gun, 54mph...and thats really rich...wait til I lean my Picco .15 out more http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[LosiGTX]

N2o, I just got my RS .12 today. How do you hold the manifold to the exaust port on the engine? is there a spring or something? What else works for that? Also what air filter are you using? My previous was a motor saver, but now it is too small.It looks to me like the maifoldisgoingto push the body out a bit...does this happen on yours, and will the heat from it melt the plastic body? Finially if you can give me the settings in which you used to break in your RS .12 it would be very helpful. Thanks!

[LosiGTX]

Jp what gear ration are you using? Anyone know the highest gear ration that can be obtained with just changing the spur and pinion gears? Whats everyone using for the off road tracks?

[Gokou]

Losi-- yes, you get manifold springs to hold the manifold on. They aren't included with the manifold or engine. Your LHS should have some. If not, look for Trinity/Picco manifold springs-- they are easy to get and they fit great. Part# is TRIG7276

If you don't modify the manifold, it will bulge the body way out. Either leave it be (it shouldn't melt your body) or get a spring bender and reshape it, being very careful not to collapse the tubing. It is soft and collapses easily. As for a air filter, MotorSaver makes a few diameters to fit different carbs-- get the right one and it will fit.

The carb should be set out of the box for break in. Don't mess with it unless it sounds way lean when you start it the first time.

As for highest gear ratios: I have a 24t pinion/59 tooth spur I use occasionally for top speed runs =) They're from the DualSport. As for more sensible gearing, the 15/66 stock combination is pretty close to optimal. You might want to go up a tooth or two on the pinion (or as I prefer down a tooth or two on the spur to get it away from the a-arm mount) depending on your track, but the 15/66 is a excellent starting point for most tracks.

The battery balance issue is an interesting point. Anyone ever tried splitting their receiver pack? I am contemplating 3 cells in the rear, and two on the servo or under the front body mount... maybe also placing 3 in back, one on the servo and one under the front body mount. This way, you could play with the weight bias to try to balance steering with rear traction by simply changing how many cells are in the back and how many in the front. Unfortunately that means more solder joints and more chances of losing receiver power should one break... (eek)

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-10-2001).]

[Railman]

The header pipe is held on with a very strong & small spring. Some shops include it with header pipe, others sell separately. To bend the pipe you need to get a tubing bending spring or just find a spring that fits a little loose inside the pipe.(Take the pipe to the hardware store.) The Mugen version can be bent fairly easy by hand. The Novas header I hear is harder to bend though. Just put the spring inside & bend a little at a time. Your patience will be tested! You could heat to bend, but they also melt very easily. I would not try to bend all the way, it's easier to bend the body out a bit. To bend lexan apply heat to the side to be contracted, in this case the outside of the body. Take your time on this. Std. gearing for a GT offroad is 15 x 66 (& very popular) but I run 14 x 64 with my MT12. This is about 1/2 point lower a stock rollout. A 14 is harder on the spur, but easier on the clutch bearings. The MT12 is similar to the RS12, & they both rev well. You are running a GT aren't you? I hope this helps. I broke my Mt12 in at 5 turns on top, Can't recall bottom though. Good luck.
By the way: I may have answered you wrong on what You wanted on the ratios. Just to clarify, the slower the final rollout rpm, the lower the gear ratio is, & the higher the gear reduction number is. A high reduction number is a lower gearing.

[Railman]

Hi Gokou, Hows the carb project coming along?
Me & my son ran 4 AA's in the rear & one in the front above nose plate about 3 years ago.Made a lot of sense to me at the time, but later figured out that we lost too much rear traction, & the wire that linked the pack together seemed to cause glitch's. The glitch's stopped immediatly when we removed front battery. We gave up on it & don't see the need to try again , especially with the high power, light weight batteries available today. Weight is not that big of an issue on these things. It's all the other little things that make the big differance in off road. As it is the GT is way lighter than the XXXNT.
Your post just beat mine, but I agree with your comments. Later.

[Gokou]

The carb project is about done. I've made 2 adapters out of delrin so far. One raises the carb with about a .075" lip. Another raises the carb about .500", and I'm going to make an intermediate one tomorrow that raises the carb about .325". I'll experiment this weekend. I am suspecting the taller adapters will have a "tunnel ram" effect and have lots of power from mid to top but be dead on the bottom end-- I could be dead wrong though, I'm basing my assumptions on playing with my real cars =) I'm fairly confident though that the behavior of a 2-stroke will follow the behavior of 4-strokers-- longer runners and increased plenum volumes lead to more high rpm horsepower with a decrease in lower RPM torque and throttle response. I could be wrong though-- guess I'll find out this weekend =) I am hoping for very noticable differences. If not, I'll be left scratching my head which one to use...

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-10-2001).]

[n2o]

LosiGTX.. Looks like most of your questions have been answered.. But I have a few things to add.. I broke my engine in with the 'out of the box' settings.. Thats what it says on that little paper that says "READ FIRST".. haha.. Anyhoot, I have the mugen exhaust manifold and it does stick out a tad to much. You can try to bend it, but some guys at my LHS have broken them doing so.. I have found a part by Kyosho that is an air intake tube kind of like a cold air induction system. This tube fits right in place of the old mugen manifold and can hold up to the heat. I am going to shove some alum tubing inside of it just to make sure it doesnt get hard and crack. But I have put 2 tanks of 30% through it and it's fine.. And about that air filter, I'm not sure what brand filter I have, I ripped it out of the bag at the hobby shop and stuck it on.. hah.. I know it's a .21 size fome filter though.

-n2o

[Bodido GT]

Who's running a non-associated pipe with a CV-R? Id like to try some other pipe to soften the low-end power some. I've been thinking of trying the losi pipe, but wanted to see if anyone has already done much experimentation with this first.

[n2o]

a friend of mine just put the novarossi onroad pipe on his MT12 and said it smothed out a lot of that low end punch the MT12 has.. It might help the OS some.

[LosiGTX]

N2o, I did read all the manuals that came with the engine, however i cannont find the settings in which to break this engine in. It has settings for the the other engines in this series like the Cx .12, but no rs. 12 break in settings are told. The read first manual is obviosly has not been updated with this information. What settings did you use? did you use the settings for the CX .12?

[Railman]

Bodido. Try the O'donnel pipe. It's perfect for what you want. If you can't find it anywhere they sell it @ Nitro House/MD Planes. You will need to cut about 3/8" off the header pipe & space 3/16" or so. I run this on my MT12 with a slide carb with excellent results. Good bottom, & top, smooth in between. I originally tried the stock pipe & it was also good, but it's now more driveable with better top end.

[Gokou]

LosiGTX: the carb is set out of the box for break in. You just start the sucker up. Richen it some maybe, but certainly don't lean it. Hope you didn't mess with the needles... I did that with my MT-12 before I read "the carburetor is factory-adjusted for break in." Another pointer (since I've broken in both my MT-12 and X-12): use an OS #8 plug during break in. I had a heck of a time keeping the engines running with the stock plug. With the OS #8, I had no problems.

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-11-2001).]

[n2o]

LosiGTX.. If you think those manuals are out of date.. Give the RC10GT's manual a look see.. That thing had to be printed back in the 80's.. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/wink.gif

I just broke mine in with the factory settings.. This engine will start to get VERY rich after ohhh, 4 maybe 5 tanks.. I had to lean the top end out JUST A TAD because it would fill the pipe with fuel and choke. Other than that, mine had factory settings for a full half gallon of fuel and it runs very srtong and sounds fine.

your going to love this engine when you get it broken in.. Just make sure to take your time with the brake in!

-n2o

[n2o]

Went and looked at the XXXNT last night at my LHS.. I just wanted to see why everyone likes these trucks so much. I have only run Associated and I like them alot. I have never driven a Losi, but the only thing I can see any better about that truck than my FT GT is the brakes and the steering. The brakes just work awsome and it takes less throw to lock them up. The brakes on my GT just plain **** , they dont stop well and it's hard to just slide into a turn with VERY light brake. I am thinking about developing my own brake system for the GT.. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/wink.gif And the steering on the losi I am told works a lot better. But the truck just isnt made as well as the GT AND the GT has a WAY better transmission than the losi. I just cant figure out why allmost all of the top drivers (kinwald for one) drive losi.. A good driver can make almost anything win. And now Losi is making an onroad car.. Associated needs to get with it!

-n2o

[Railman]

LosiGTX, My MT12 (slide carb) was 5 turns out on the main, 2 1/2 in from flush on bottom, mid was flush on rear at brass fitting, when new. I am @ 4 7/8 now, @ almost 3 qts, with good performance, don't know about bott, you'll have to adjust to your engine anyway. Don't bother with the mid range adj as this just shifts the whole nozzle position in and out. If you have the new RS12 it should breath differently anyway, due to the shorter rod ,lower crankcase volume, improved ports, etc. These starting settings should be safe to start with though, just keep an eye on temp. Do change the plug to something hotter. I found this out with my sons Nova12. It was just too hard to keep running with the stock plug, especialy when trying to break in. Its way cold for off road. I like Mc59's.

[TRXboy]

NO2-Hehe good, i thought i was the only one who couldent get my breaks to work great, as for the top drivers...its all about money, and Kinwald acualy did race a RC10GT back in the day, But who cares, associated got the king of gas on its team-Saxton.

Bodido-I use the Trinity/Picco "Pro" Pipe and it works great for me, it makes the power band sooo much smother on my Picco .12 compared to the stock pipe.

[Grant Tokumi]

I was in that battle to get good brakes for my GT for years. It was either sacrifice some brake to get full throttle or sacrifice throttle to get stronger brakes. I finally broke down and bought longer servo arms. With the longer throw of the new servo arm, I now get full throttle AND lots of brakes. I have to tune out some brakes to keep them from locking completely when I brake.

[This message has been edited by Grant Tokumi (edited 04-12-2001).]

[Bodido GT]

Thanks for the responses guys. I was toying with the idea of cutting my header shorter, but I'm not sure if that will give me the desired result. I'm thinking it'll move the torque peak up in the rpm band, but it will still be a bit of a violent hit due to the severe angle of the divergent cone, (I'm speculating here). Right now I feel like I have a light switch of a throttle trigger. Can't complain about the amount of power, that's for sure.
Before I buy I'm gonna see if anyone at the track will let me take a few laps with one of their pipes. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

Of course I've been told a dozen times to run a carb restrictor, but I keep resisting. I need all the horsepower! I can control it just fine! I swearrrrr! ;0

[n2o]

http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/mad.gif
I went to the track today to try and get my suspension tuned in a little. And when I got there they said they couldnt let me drive becase they are re-designing the track for the ROAR nationals that are comming in 2 weeks.. jerks.. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/wink.gif I am going to clean my truck tonight and go back tomorrow and see if they will let me drive, I'm thinking about entering the race if I can get my truck dialed in by then..

-n2o

[Gokou]

I've never had weak brake problems with my GT... then again I use a 94357 servo for throttle/brakes, which is .07 seconds / 125 oz-in torque... I can lock 'em up at any speed =)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

That's not cool n2o, the guys at my track redesign the track like 2 months before our big races. It gives all the local drivers a nice little edge over the competition...hehehe

[LosiGTX]

Thanks guys. Now I need to find out some way to connect my servo linkages to the carburator. My old engine had a little hole for it to insert. This carb has a ball or some kinda cup where you attach the linkage.(its a slide carburator). I had to cut the chassis brace on my gtx for it to fit in there. till have few other problems to take care of on it too, like the barrel on the carb is right beneath the brake linkage. Must be pretty easy to install on a RC10 GT huh? About the losi truck you guys were talking about: Almost everyone, even previous rc10gt owners say the the new XXX-nt is the best nitro truck. I have never herd anyone say otherwise. Even the other day i talked to some guy who walked in with bother trucks in his hand, he said the XXX-nt is very opromising too. The thing is that there is alot more parts and upgrades out there for the RC10 GT, due to its bigger popularity. I never have trouble finding parts for my trucks though, Losi and associated are really big around here (i live near san jose).

[Railman]

LosiGTX, Check out the XXXNT throtle servo horn kit, it may help solve your problems ($4.50?) I always did like using the LOSI horns on my GT. Go to the Assoc. site for for some ideas that may help under "slide carb conversion". Don't have a GTX, so my help is limited. Try TTT?

[Gokou]

I also highy suggest the Ofna linkage kit. Comes with the horns, adapters, a slider, and the rod and overtravel spring. About $7. Looks nice, works great. http://www.gpmd.com/images/ofnc1724.JPG

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-11-2001).]

[redalert]

I am not sure whether any of you have actually tried this, but, a few days ago, as I was surfing the net, I came across a truck racer's homepage and in the tip section, he suggested using silicone sealant to bond tires and wheels. I think no matter how hard I may bond a tire and a wheel with CA glue, it gets debonded pretty soon, but, it is silicone...I think the bonding is pretty stronger than CA. What do you think? anyone tried? What brand or type of silicone?

[Jace2000]

Here's a pic of my A-main winning GT.
Just wanted to share it with you guys.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1442870&a=10825946&p=46120359
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1442870&a=10825946&p=46120368
It was painted by my friend to wish me good luck in the race.

I'm sure he'll appreciate any word of praise because this was only his second time painting a lexan body.
Thanks buddy!

Redalert..
Are you in Seoul? Cause that's where I am now.


[This message has been edited by Jace2000 (edited 04-12-2001).]

[illbreakit]

Jace2000; awesome GT. Where in heavens RC did you get those rims http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/confused.gif I want em. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[This message has been edited by illbreakit (edited 04-12-2001).]

[SteveP]

Red - Silicone sealer will never hold. I'd giuve it about two minutes before your tire and wheel are going in separate directions...

[n2o]

Hey Jace, that body is bad cool.. Tell your friend he did a good job! I am about to try and paint my body. It will be my first one... Not sure what I want to do with it, but I have an air brush and all of the tools I'll need.. Now I just need the time to do it. So why dont you give us some pics of it without the body on? How is your suspension set up?

So what temp does your engine run with that body on?? I had my GT runnig 225-235 with out the body on, and the other day I stuck my friends body on and it shot up to 260 in less than 90 seconds.. And he has the front windshield and the area over the engine cut out. Guess a little re-tuning with the body on is needed?? http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/wink.gif

-n2o

[Railman]

Redalert, Try light sanding of the rim at the glue area, and then clean rim and tire with laquer thinner,acetone, or alchhol to remove the mold release oils. You need to use a good, fresh bottle of glue. I was told by a competitive racer, that worked at a hobby store, that he had the best luck with DYNAMITE (thin) ca glue. He gave me a bottle to try. That shop didn't even carry it! I have not had any problems glueing tires since useing that glue, and teqnique.

[Railman]

N2O, When you cut your body, do layout work outside with a "FLAIR" black pen. This is a non permanent water based pen. Leave a 3/4" support post at the windshield/drivers window (1/2 on front, 1/2 side), & cut to center of window. Also leave 1/8"+ extra at the top & bott of the glass line of windshield. Cut the driver side window a little smaller (especialy at top & front) than glass area to keep from cracking. Drill 1/4" holes at all corners before cutting to prevent cracks from starting. Cut most of the grill off as this is where the best cooling air comes from. Don't hack it too much though, as You can always cut more later if you need more air. Leave passenger side window in. Cut out max amt at engine area. I like to use a dremel with 1/4" & 1/2" sanding drums to shape in cuts. This cut out scheme will give max air, be durable, & legal. Wear glasses when grinding plastic, its hard to get out of eyes! Hope this helps.

[Bodido GT]

illbreakit.... His wheels are from RPM. They're either "Talonz" or "Clawz". Not too sure which. Very easy to find.

[Grant Tokumi]

Thats an interesting thought about using silicone instead of CA. I too think silicone probably won't stick too well to the tires and rims, but haven't tested it out to know for sure. I'm thinking Shoe Goo might do a good job at keeping those tires on the rim. Concerns are weight, getting it to spread evenly around the tire, and dry time. But shoe goo would definitely have more flex than brittle CA.

[n2o]

n2o - clean it up. You're getting dangerously close to losing posting privileges.

[Jace2000]

n2o, illbreakit

Thanks for the word of praise. I'm sure my friend has read this post and is appreciating your complements.
The rims are from RPM and they are the "Claws". You can easily get them from Tower Hobbies.

I'll post a step-by-step pic of how my friend masked the body to create those two stage flames.
But Railman pretty much told it all about the layout part. My friend used a thin tip black marker of some sort to draw the flames outside of the body.

[TRXboy]

Those are claw rims, i have them on mine :D

[Gokou]

Railman-- interesting point you made in the nitro forum about the loose sintered brass filter in the tank causing erratic engine performance. I've never had that problem, but now I have another item on my check list in event of erratic performance.

Now that I'm home for the weekend and have my GT in front of me I checked out the bump steer issue again. My truck has near 0 bump steer for any steering position. At most it has 1/16" inch for the entire range of suspension motion at full lock. There is 0 bump steer throughout the full suspension travel at any steering angle short of full lock. I'm running 2 washers under the ballstud at the knuckle. What was your setup? Aren't you running T3/B3 steering knuckles, shaved to fit in the GT caster blocks? That might be interesting to try, mostly because I have a problem with the rim rubbing the ballcup at the steering knuckle at full lock. The only reason it rubs is that I run the RPM ballcups, which are a bit beefier than the associated's.

I tried my short carb adapter today. It worked great for about 5 minutes. The OS carb was much more responsive than the Nova or RB carb and yet smoother throughout the RPM range. Throttle response was very quick, yet easily controlled. Also, the heat insulating properties of the delrin adapter were great! Normally, the body of the Mugen or RB carb was about 30 degrees cooler than the head temps. I had problems with hot restarts (the fuel vaporizes in the hot carb.) With the OS carb mounted on the Delrin adapter, the carb body temp was about 80 degrees cooler than the head temp. Hot restarts were not a problem at all! Unfortunately after a few minutes of driving the truck started acting very erratic as if it had a severe air leak. It did. The rubber boot over the barrel on my OS carb had split into 2 pieces. Doh! Back to the stock carbs until I can get a new boot. Made a nice mess on my chassis too from all the fuel it leaked. Once I get a new boot I can try my other taller adapters and see if they shift the powerband of the engine around.

Another thing I might try: The Richey MT-12s (the most awesome .12's I've ever seen, you have to see one to believe them) have carb insulators. Richey turns the carb down where it sits in the block to about half of its original thickness and then slips an insulating sleeve over it, to bring it back to stock diameter. It sits in the block at stock height, but is better insulated from heat. While not necessary if running an OS carb (just make the adapter out of an insulating material as I did) if you run the stock carb on your MT-12 and still want to isolate it a bit from the heat of the engine, this could be something you might want to try. Unfortunately the mods to your carb are a bit permanent. =)

[TRXboy]

Ok, here is my question, what position do you test your truck for bump steer?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Gokou, where did you see those Richey's? I've been looking for them for over 6 months, with no luck. :( Thanks

[n2o]

clean what up?? Whats up with this stuff?? Go ahead, kick me off of this board... I dont have to take your threats

-n2o

[Jace2000]

n2o...

What's going on?
Is someone else posting messages using your ID?

[Gokou]

I tested at about 10 different steering positions. I did the obvious first (wheels straight ahead, and then both full left and full right), then at about 10 other increments. Just turn the wheels and work the suspension up and down and watch if the angle of the wheel changes. Zero bump steer means that the angle of the wheel remains constant throughout the range of suspension movement. I checked mine again, and the only reason I'm having bump steer at full steering lock is because the larger RPM ballcups interfere with each other-- at full lock, the inner ballcup on the bellcrank and the inner ballcup on the camber link rub each other. When they rub, it changes the angle of that wheel a bit. Not much you can do about that except switching back to smaller stock ballcups.

[Gokou]

GTman: There's a store in Texas that is the distributor of Richey's motors. The Richey's I saw were piloted by John Dansby-- the man that designed the Richey RTU/RTO with Dennis Richey. John had all these ideas for a motor, and after seeing Richey's .15 FE work he decided he had found the man he wanted to collaborate with. I'd say they did a VERY good job =) They are absolutely unbelievable motors. He was running it at 220F with 20% nitro and during practice he was gaining on other cars from the super class running big block RB X-15 Turbos. My jaw hit the ground. Crazy, crazy motors. They would be WAY too much in a GT (not that I'd mind trying one, heheh). John told me that he finds the RTU easier to drive than the stock MT-12 because the powerband is much smoother due to the engine and carb mods. He said it approaches an OS CV in smoothness, which is good when you have that much power under your finger.

I found the info for the distributor. It's Rage RC in Texas. Website is http://www.rcrage.com

I'd give them a call, but I'm not prepared for the sticker shock =) I'm told they run right around $300...

[ 04-14-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Gokou, I e-mailed RCRage sometime ago and here's what they said:Thanks for the enquiry. Info you are seeking. Our RTU/RTO version motors are
comparably priced with JP. JP .12s are very difficult to obtain. We haven't
had any for 8-9 months. We do have a standing back order for JPs. We do have
JP .21Pro in stock though.

Basically a little stronger than a JP (Jean-Paul). The strongest production
2.1cc engine on the market; JP little known whose engines hold more
championship titles in Europe over the years.
Richey mod motors have more extensive work done on them than JP. In fact
some of the best tricks of JP, Rody, Collari and Richey's own magic combined
are put into RT motors. Both motors are very good, but I think RT is
stronger. The biggest problems guys are having is getting the power to the
road. I'm talking tire burning power!

RT and RTU motors are within ROAR Spec. RTU pushes the specs to the limit
though. RTOpen crosses the limit with 6.2 mm carb bore, exhaust port is
raised .055. All RT motors have tapered & polished carb inlets. Piston
skirts are cut, flame channeling and transfer flow director cuts in the
bottom of the sleeve. Extensive work is done to the RT crank and crank
timing is widened (fixed).
With exception to the extensive work performed on RT motors, JP shafts are
hardened with a super slick process patented by JP.

Oh and let me say that RB has nothing over RT motors. RT will out perform RB
hands down!

MT12SG RT
:Carb cut with venturi
:Crank timing changed
:Crank bi turbo cut with Kicker shoe no rifling
:Ramp fill crank with ceramic
:Angle Cut Transfers
:Piston skirted
:Piston and liner Radially lapped
:Deck clearance reset
:pre broke-in

MT12SG RTU
same as above plus
:Crank rifling added and polished crank bore
:Case relieved under the carburetor
:Case t cut up the transfers
:Case relieved on both sides of crankcase
:Crankshaft externally polished and fitted
:liner detailed around ports. port entries radiused
:Air Straighteners on the bottom of the liner
:Liner polished and fitted
:Exhaust port blended and cratex polished
:Carbon heat Isolator added to base of carb
:Stratified charge head button polished

MT12SG RTU Open, Sport combined mods as RT and RTU in addition
:Exhaust timing set at 171 to 174 degrees

All in stock as of 3/30/01. The RTU and RTOpen are really hot movers and all
motors sell quick.
Before you ask, here's the information you'll ask about.
Placing and order is very simple via email, fax or phone. Our website is
under development. Our site is available, however, we do not have our
catalog completed yet.

Regards,

William Van Horn
R/C Rage Racing


[ 04-14-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[ 04-14-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[TRXboy]

Holy big post batman!

[Railman]

Gokou, The bump steer thing is more pronounced with 30' blocks, as lesser degree blocks will raise the rear of the steering arm resulting in less bump steer. I measure almost 1/4" at full lock, on outside wheel, on my son's FTGT with 2 washers under ball stud. This is an extreme position to measure this but I feel it is the best one to compare to later designed vehicles(b3,ts,xxx). Bump steer is only one reason I like this arm though. The other reason is it reduces the torque loads on ALL of the steering components, resulting in less flex, slop, & gives a little more precision. It just increases the number of revolutions that the servo has to make, not a problem with good coreless. Most of the really fast guys aren't interested in changing their set ups, (why change what works for them?) That understandable, but it doesn't change the
dynamics of the steering.
The info on carb heat isolation makes a lot of sense to me. Maybe a relieving the center of the neck would also work without going too crazy on machining? I'll have to look at it though. Thanks for the info. :)

[Railman]

Anyone know for sure what "ramp fill crank with ceramic" means? I think it has to do with the area at the point the fuel charge enters the crank, (always wondered about that area), but I'm not sure. The other one is "Kicker shoe". Whats that?
I would assume these engines would be used for onroad, as we can't use what's available now in offroad. The carb isolation sounds good to me though.

[Gokou]

Railman-- Dennis uses a ceramic epoxy to build a "ramp" of sorts in the crank right at the crank window. So, the mixture coming from the carburetor hits the tapered ramp and is directed towards the aspiration hole at the rod end of the crank, instead of slamming down on the normally horizontal surface of the crank. Just another trick to increase and direct mixture flow =)

As for the kicker shoe on the crank: Richey flat spots part of the crank. Looking at the crank from the rod side, the 60 degrees or so immediatly after the connecting rod journal is ground flat and knife edged. Thus the leading edge of the crank can slice through any oil/fuel present in the crankcase and fling it back up into the ports.

John told me one of the biggest power gains on the motor was the grooving on the head button. He also said it's the most difficult thing to get right. The grooving on the underside of the head button changes the direction of the flame front at the time of combustion and re-directs it towards the exhaust port, increasing scavenging and flow in the combustion chamber.

You really have to see one of these motors taken apart. The amount of work that goes into them is staggering. Richey told me he spents about 8 hours on the RTU's. The prices are very reasonable I think for what is probably the fastest .12 in existance today. They are on-road motors though. Even though their powerband is very smooth there would probably be little chance of controlling a GT with a Richey installed =)

RC10gtMan: I don't know if you want to leave that email posted. The owner of RC Rage has been very insistant on the HPI forum that people email him for pricing and that he does not like his pricing information posted on forums. I'm sure a lot of us appreciate you posting the info, but because William of RC Rage has been so admant about not posting his pricing info on the HPI forums it would be the courteous thing to do if you would go back and edit that post.

[Jace2000]

Does anyone have a pic of this motor?
I sure would love to see how it looks like.

[Railman]

I always wanted to try the ramp, didn't know anyone that did it, didn't know what to call it. It just looked like a turbulent flow area, that could use some "Devcon" filler to optimize flow & decrease crankcase volume. Like so many things on these engines there are trade offs in performance vs reasonable machining. Thanks for info RC10tgman, Gouku.
:)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Sorry About that Gokou, and thanks for telling me before he sabotaged the engine I'm gonna buy from him soon. :p

[ 04-14-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I couldn't decifer some that terminology myself. Anyone know what it means?

[JP]

<-----JP not Jean-Paul

But all these JP engine replies has got my attention. Anyone have a pic, or more info about them/where I can find one? How good are they/reliable? Crazy world we live in.

Perenthesis arent allowed? {Confused**

[Rc1oGtMaN]

the jp site is JP Racing (http://www.jpracing.com) They are kind of like your basic high-powered engine, but with a smoooth powerband.

[n2o]

Jace2000.. Yea someone posted on my name and said something about clean it up or you will be kicked off the board.. jerk.. anyway..

Whats up guys? I leave for 3 days and we start talking about ENGINES and not GT's!!

Hey, I have a few questions.. I went and drove my GT the other day in some really lose dirt. got a scratch on my pan also, anyone else have a scratched pan? Anyway, my GT was covered with fine dirt everywhere.. How should I clean my engine? I have dirt all down in the glow plug area... in the fins on the head.. EVERYWHERE! I took a tooth brush and soap and washed my engine in the sink (with a bag over the intake and exhaust of course) but I think there still might be some sand or something down in the engine??? What do you guys use to clean with?? thx.

-n2o

[TRXboy]

Whats do you mean by "Pan"? If you mean chassis, i have a ton os scraces, as for the engine, i would clean it, use nitro wash and an air compresser, and a tooth brush, definetly clean your engine, and your air filter.

[beeper]

Hey guys. You might have seen my post in the nirto forum about a 1/8 scale buggy. I am looking at buggies, but I still might buy a FTGT(the 1/8 guys at my track have been doing 1/8 scale for a long time and I don't think I got much of a chance to win. They have more money then me. I am 16.) Anyhoo since 1/10 is a lot cheaper I might just stay with 1/10. My question is the RC10GT going to be replace soon? I don't want to buy a truck that will be replace by a brandnew truck in a couple of months. Thanks for the help.
beeper :)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I don't think it will be replaced. If it does get changed, Team Associated always comes out with upgrade kits so you don't have to buy an entirely new truck just to get new technology.

[atm92484]

beeper, like GTMan said the GT will probably just be updated. I bought a Team GT in the Fall of 99. It had the old chassis. I have since updated everything to Factory Team trim and it has the newest suspension settings. The great part is I have a ton of extra parts now.

n2o, no one posted on your name. You probably said something inappropriate and the staff edited the message to say that.

[Jamedup]

JP,
I with ya on those crappy RPM ball cups.
When I first got my GT, the track I raced on was raw and the jumps where pretty wicked too. I always popped the stock AE cups and the RPM cups just from the landings but an wise ole man told me that the Losi cups on AE balls work pretty good, so I tried them and sure enough, no more problems. I asked on a couple message boards and I was told "NOT" to use the Losi cups!! I'm sure glad I seldom play into all the hype about this and that untill I try other stuff out for myself. ;)
If everyone zigs left, I zig right. Everyone marries the woman of there dreams, I marry a witch! :eek:

[ 04-17-2001: Message edited by: Jamedup ]

[Jamedup]

Every replies to the posts right away, I reply to a post 2 months later...Geeez :rolleyes:

[Gokou]

Hey Railman, how do you like that slide carb on your MT-12? My rotary carb got messed up badly this weekend (I asked my brother to clean it since he had been driving my GT and got it all grungy, and he used brake cleaner instead of alcohol and destroyed all the seals in my rotary carb). I can get an RB slide carb for $45 and was wondering if it's worth it. Have you noticed any throttle fluctuations from chassis flex? The new flat chassis doesn't flex much. I'm always up for a little more power and figure a slide carb might be worth a try =)

[Railman]

Mine runs great. The really hard part is getting the progession that you need to get a controlable throttle. It can be done however. It also helps to have throttle curve, & throttle speed settings on your radio. I use a Mars; does three speeds at any position, indepenent forward & return speeds. I use about a -40 curve. Can pretty much anything you can imagine. Getting the servo set up right is also critical. Slides use only about 1/2 the travel of a rotary, so servo horn/throttle rod angles is tricky.
I do like the slide now, but it took some thought, & work to get right. I did think I was getting some throttle hits from bumps, but I solved that one. Later. :D :cool:

[Gokou]

Guess I'll pick myself up a slide and give it a try. I have an M8 so servo setup won't be a problem.

How did you solve the flex/throttle problem? Did you make a brace from the tranny to the throttle servo mount?

[TRXboy]

<---wants a slider for his picco

as for the RPM cups, i likemine, and never pop them..and trust me........i try.

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

What TRX said, Mine NEVER pop off too! And the MIP 4-n-1 is good. ;) :eek: :p :cool:

[n2o]

TRXboy... Nitro Wash eh?? I saw some of that over priced 409 down at my LHS the other day.. Guess I'll pick some up tonight on the way home from work.. So is is okay to get nitro wash inside the engine?? (as long as I get it out of course) :rolleyes:

-n2o

[Railman]

N2o, Kerosene, or diesel makes an excellent nitro cleaner. When your done coat with WD40, to make it easier to keep clean. Never use water based products inside your engine. I have been using the Traxas cleaner lately because of the convieience of the spray bottle. Seems ok. Why do you think the inside needs to be cleaned? Did the filter come loose or something?
:confused:

[ 04-17-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[n2o]

Well I washed the engine off first.. but when I took the exhaust manifold off just a LITTLE dirt got in the engine.. I got most of it out I think.. but I want to be SURE ya know? I'll pick up some nitro wash and get some q-tips and clean it again..

So you put WD40 on your MT12???

-n2o

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I HAVE popped my RPM ballcups, but only once. I came off a table top and got hammered into the ground by another truck. My truck came down on the left tire, but only one popped. I still might try the losi cups though. Are they a tighter fit around the ball or something? Also, thanks for the info Railman.

[Jamedup]

Rc1oGtMaN,
I wouldn't say the Losi cups fits tighter, (they may but I'm not saying they do) it just seems they are a little harder plastic thus they don't want to stretch as much and pop off.
Sounds like you've have good luck with the RPMs though. You want them to pop off during an extreme hit but mine were popping off upon landing a jump during races and that wasn't cool at all. Some love them and some hate them, it was just unnerving that people got on JP because he didn't care for some RPM products and it seems that him and I aren't afriad to call a ***** a ***** and buck the trend. ;) I'm always out to try different stuff, that's how come I bought a GTs. (2 of them among other r/cs! :rolleyes: )

[n2o]

I second that.. If I wanted to go with the trend in my area.. I would have a losi :rolleyes:

All of the losi hipe is a trend.. they are no better than AE..

thats just my .02

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Yeah I agree with yall too. On to the reason I came here...I was driving my GT off some steps (about a foot high) and one time I goofed up and went too slow for a four point landing. The truck did a nose dive and landed on the front bumper. The truck is fine, but my radio doesn't work anymore. (the radio is a Futaba 2PCKA AM) I replaced the batts, but still don't get a response. What's going on? I called futaba and they said to send it in, but they might charge me, and I don't have much money. Can Anyone help me?

[n2o]

Check to make sure all of the wires are still in place and havent broken or anything. Then check the crystals(sp?), maybe swap them with a friend??

Other than that.. I guess you'll have to send it in.. :confused:

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I also forgot to mention that I saw that the wire leading from the switch to the reciever is fraying. I'll replace it, but if that doesn't work, what should I do?

[n2o]

Sell you my JR XR3 for 120?? Paid 160 for it less than a month ago.. I just want an M8.

[Jace2000]

Hey guys, I got some tire questions...

Has anyone here tried the three piece wheel from Associated? You know, the one that doesn't require gluing? Does this wheel hold the tires well enough even in extreme contest conditions?

Also, what inners are you guys using?
I use Proline tires and the ones that comes with the tires gets grinded into fine sponge dusts rather quickly. I don't seem to recall this problem previously and I'm wondering if it was just a one-time defect.

Thanks in advance guys~

[ 04-17-2001: Message edited by: Jace2000 ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Jace, your gonna ditch the inserts that helped you win the main? That's crazy talk. j/k. I think it was a one time thing. I've had nor heard of that problem before.

[TRXboy]

Jace-try a firmer(SP?) insert, Pro-line makes them and they hold up great in the rear tires(Dont need them in the front)

[Jamedup]

Jace2000,
I didn't have any luck with the 3 piece rims and yes, all my stock Pro-line foams have turned to dust and we're not alone. I use Losi 2 stage foams on the track I race on now but it's the smooth (get out the broom and sweep the track off) type offroad track.

[Tusken]

http://tuskenraiderr.tripod.com/Img18.jpg
finaly got my film back


http://tuskenraiderr.tripod.com/Img20.jpg

http://tuskenraiderr.tripod.com/Img21.jpg

[n2o]

The 2 peice rims can not hold the tires enough for the GT.. If you can hook up what so ever, you will cut the tires right off.. I have almost thrown a tire that was GLUED on with my FT GT and MT12.

-n2o

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Hey everyone, yesterday I modded my engine for the first time. I'll post some pics later, if my dad will let me borrow his digital camera. Catch yall on the flip side

[Grant Tokumi]

You're not alone on the crumbling foams.

http://www.rccaraction.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001852

I did try the Trinity foams, but they also went crumbled away in the center of the foam. I don't know why its happening to me and not others. SteveP says his Trinity foams last as long as the tire. Mine lasted 2 weeks. Granted I went through around 1/2 a gallon in that time, but still. Maybe I'm spending too much time at the track :).

I got a new set of foams and tried adding Team Kinwald double stage foam glue to the outside of the foam, thinking the foam/tire rubbing is doing the damage, and making the foam tacky might help. I was told to use 3M spray glue, but I only had the Kinwald glue at the time. We'll see what this does to foam life.

[Bodido GT]

You wanna know what is worse than your pro-line foams crumbling to their death... I'll tell ya. One of your rear foams wearing out, while the other is fine. Errrrr. :mad:

[VexVegaz]

finaly got sum updated pics of my gt
if anyone has any idea of what else i might be able to put on,please let me know

thanks

http://www.veytrex.com/rc10gt.jpg
http://www.veytrex.com/f150gt.jpg

[JP]

Blue Ofna Linkage kit.

Go to www.towerhobbies.com (http://www.towerhobbies.com) and search for "Ofna Linkage." But the $9 blue one, the $3 one doesnt include everything.

[Gokou]

If anyone's looking for a new engine, here's a hot deal... ehobbies has the CV-R (with slide carb) on sale for $119 at the moment...

BTW, nice truck Vex.

[VexVegaz]

thanks! i got them on order with a chrome k&n filter


ps. thanks gokou

-vex

[ 04-18-2001: Message edited by: VexVegaz ]

[Jace2000]

Thanks for the word of advice guys~ :)

Grant Tokumi
Please let me know how the spray-glue-the-foam trick went. Very curious as to how it works out :D

[Gokou]

Advice Vex: Don't run the K&N if you drive in dusty conditions. The K&Ns may flow a ton, but they also let a lot of fine dirt though. In clean conditions they're acceptable, but in dusty conditions you don't want to run a K&N. Run the stock AE filter, a Motorsavers, or any other good dense foam filter.

[VexVegaz]

Gokou, definatly! when i drive it i usualy have a motor saver or the ae paper filter but the k&n would look so nice when i have the car on the hudy setup for display.


-vextreme :D

[TRXboy]

Motor savers for me :)

[n2o]

::yawn::
good morning everyone.. Well I was cleaning my GT last night.. I rebuilt the transmission and noticed that one of the large bearings that hold the dif in was blown... :mad:

I guess I'll get a new one and put some really good oil on them this time.. ;)

-n2o

[Bodido GT]

I blast mine with carb cleaner, then soak them in synthetic motor oil overnight, wipe em off, and reinstall. Seems to do the trick pretty well.

[n2o]

yea, I just stuck my truck back together so I could get some track time in while the weather is nice.. I'll re-work everything this weekend and soak my bearings in some Mobile1 (I'll be changing my oil anyway)

What do you guys use to clean your shocks?? I used some of that spray motor cleaner and it looks liek it burned some of the coating off of the shock body. But I cleaned it with some 409 and it came off.. ;)

-n2o

[Tundra2]

I am interested in purchasing an RC10GT but I am having difficuilty with the below information.
Where do the RC10GT owners go for hop-up reviews, owners web pages, primary message boards? Ive searched the web and come up with very limited rc10gt owners webpages. If I run a search on t-maxx, I get a ton of pages.

Traxxas and HPI each have a message board on their main sites. I did not see one for the rc10gt. Which message board do you use the most?

any info is appreciated and thank you for your help.

[Gokou]

If anyone wants to know, Ace Hobbies has a bunch of RS12's in stock. $190 standard plug, $200 turbo...

This is also a good read: http://www.hpiracing.com/ubb/Forum21/HTML/001955.html
Motorman, the man who makes the Richey MT-12s (fastest .12s right now, bar-none) and one of the most knowledgable people I've ever spoke to got a hold of an RS12. That thread is his findings. He summed it up best when he said: "It is an RB X12 turbo engine with a non turbo plug head and Mugen MT 12 cooling fins." Read the thread, good info.

Tundra2: I don't know of any specific RC10GT forums anywhere. There are however several good threads in different forums specifically about GTs, this thread being one of them. There's a similar thread on the HPI forums, and the forums at XtremeRC are also good because Regan LeBlanc (Saxton's mechanic, knows a ton about GTs) is one of the mods over there and is very active on the board.

Wait a minute... isn't this LilDev's GT? http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=581485534
Remember when he hit the light pole and bent the sucker in half? I swear that's his GT...
Edit: yes it is LilDev's, I just noticed his email addy on the ebay ad. Sorry to see him sell his GT...

This truck is also back on ebay, the guy never sold it the first time: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=581068159
I love that truck. I wish I could get a hold of a Composite Craft chassis... Plus he has the old school HG tranny case which isn't made any more...

[ 04-19-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[n2o]

Any of you guys get your bodies beat up pretty bad when you go to the track? I just got back from the track for the first time with my new GT.. I got the bottom of the chassis pretty scratched/buffed up and the body is kind of beat up. But man it was running good.. It's just that the track has this new 5' high double jump that made me wipe out almost every time.. :mad:

Does anyone else have scuff marks on thir chassis/body??

[Gokou]

Yep, I have one body for display on the shelf, one for driving in my front yard (where I almost never wreck) and another body for the track, which is 50% lexan and 50% shoe-goo =)

[pp13b]

i use a mugen 1/8 off road filter on 1 of my gt`s.. :)

[atm92484]

N2o, I have a show body and a body that I drive with. I just hate getting a new body and messing it up. The other day I went off this big jump and cracked the body in a few places. Other than that it was still good. I took some CA and some paper towel and I coated the area around the crack (on the inside of the body) with CA. Then I stuck the paper towel to it. I let the CA dry and I cut the excess paper towel off. I can't believe how well this is holding and the best part is its cheap and it uses stuff you can easily find at the track.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

My bodies always look terrible after going to the track. The guru there has immaculate bodies. They are painted awesome, and never have anything wrong with them. (It helps that he never wrecks.) After like 2 months, he buys new bodies, and sells his old ones for like $60.

[TRXboy]

Body's last me a week, no joke.

[Gokou]

Dang, what's with all the high-dollar GTs on ebay lately?

Check this one out... http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=581598847

$925 starting bid? Ouch! I think I'll email him though and ask what he thought of the conley pump...

[TRXboy]

Thats a little to much, besides, some of those parts would make me turn away from that truck.

[n2o]

yea, bodies dont last that well with nasty jumps.. When I ran at the track the other day, there was this one BIG double that wiped me out every time I tryed to take it because the track wasnt designed very well at all. And I slowed down comming into a turn and a T3 plowed into the back of me from mid air and folder the spoiler back and bent the body all up. So after one day at the track, the body was ready to throw away.. heh... I am painting the body that came with my truck tomorrow, hope it doesnt get torn up as bad...

-n2o

[beeper]

Hey, do any of you guys have the Killer Bee chassis for the GT? If you do where didn't you get it and do you like it? Thanks a bunch
beep :)

[stormperson]

i am going to get my gt working again. i just put alot of money into making my emaxx into a .21 tmaxx, and week after week i keep breaking small stuff. like this week the screw that keeps the carb on came looose, and i lost one of the 2 plastic parts that holds the carb on. so i figure i mind as well not sell my gt and make it a good basher.

i already have ti turnbuckles rpm ballcups and bulkhead, hg rear arm mounts, good servo in steering.

what do u guys recommend for durability hop ups, i am going to get
rpm arms and the cork pad brake kit,

but i got the rtr version, and the shocks are VERY stiff, whats a good bashing shock set up, i like to jump and run on rough terrain, which i know are total opposites, however i figure bottoming out wont hurt it that much.

its silver springs in the front and greens in the rear right now.

also anyone know when the new backwards fuel tank is coming out?

thanks!

[Gokou]

I'd go with the hardcore racing ti chassis. The killer bee one just looks cheap since it's totally flat, where the hardcore racing chassis has the kickups on the sides so it looks much more like the factory chassis. The kickups will also increase stiffness a bit.

Keep in mind that titanium does have 2 drawbacks:

1. The specific heat of titanium is lower than aluminum. Thus it won't absorb as much heat as the stock aluminum chassis will, and your motor will run a wee bit hotter.

2. Titanium has a tendency to stay bend after taking a hard hit, while with aluminum it often springs back. But the titanium will take a stronger hit than aluminum will before it bends... just don't expect to easily bend it back.

3. If you do manage to bend your chassis, you're out $140, compared to $30 for replacing the stock flat chassis...

[Jace2000]

Goku..

Do you know where I can get that chassis?
Also, did you get the progressive reservoirs that you were gonna get? If so, how do they perform and where did ya get them?

Thanks in advance.. :)

[n2o]

All the smell of nitro.. ;)

Anyone in the GT forum from Houston Texas (area)?? I am hoping to get some Nitroers together for a race! I've just about got my GT dialed in, these trucks own!

-n2o

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Jace and Beeper, there are two places:

KBR chassis - ebay sells for 25-60 (usually a combo including the front and rear shock towers too.

Hardcore chassis - www.stormerhobbies.com (http://www.stormerhobbies.com) has them for $109 in blue, green, and purple. The green one looks so awesome.

Gokou, neither chassis has the side kickups. Both only have the front one. You might have seen the magnesium chassis from KBR, which is totally flat, because it is really hard to make the front kickup.

[Gokou]

Nope, still haven't got the progressive reservoirs. I ended up spending $2500 last week on parts for the motor for my real car-- that's more of a priority than my GT =) My friend however got a set for his GT. The shocks are butter smooth and the rebound between all shocks is perfect. They are messy to bleed though. Also, the shocks stay much more consistent over extended periods of driving.

As for the hardcore chassis:
It certainly looks like it has side kickups like the stock chassis...
http://www.racinghardcore.com/hcr_rc10gt/images/rc10gt_chassis03.jpg

Edit.... what in the...?
here's the pic from stormer's site:
http://www.ssl11.com/stormerh/cgi-bin/pics/hcr0200b.jpg

Those two chassis look nothing alike! The top pic is straight from hardcore's site. The bottom is from Stormer's. Which pic is the true product? I'd be inclined to believe the pic right off hardcore's site...

[ 04-23-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[n2o]

Hey guys, just took some pics of my GT with my friend digital camara. This is the new body I just painted.. (my first one).. What do you guys think?? These pics arent the best (lighting and what not). I'll try to get some better ones.. ;)

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1194077&a=8799481&p=47110453&Sequence=0&res=high
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1194077&a=8799481&p=47110451&Sequence=0&res=high
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1194077&a=8799481&p=47111522&Sequence=0&res=high
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1194077&a=8799481&p=47111525&Sequence=0&res=high


sorry modem guys!

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Sorry, I was going off the stormer site pics. I think you're right Gokou.

[Gokou]

If the pic from Hardcore's site is correct, I might have to try one, and then strip the anodizing and have at it with 600+ grit sandpaper. Brush polished titanium looks unique VERY sweet. =)

Unfortunately I have a hard time justifying a $105 chassis because I scratch the heck out of the bottom of my chassis from jumps. Even the thick AE chassis protector tears from the hits...

[beeper]

Thanks for the help
beeper :)

[GT RAcER]

that truck looks awesome. is that an MT 12 engine.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Hey Gokou, I have an OS CV, does motorman mod them? I was gonna have him mod my 15FE a while back, but someone else slid in with their engine right before me. :mad: What about are his rates. If he doesn't like his prices posted on forums, please e-mail me at NitroMark@msn.com

[stormperson]

just wondering, what air filters are people using? since i got the rtr version, it came with a crappy one similiar to the OS stock.

i got a motor savers however i punchered the top cover, since i pushed down on it too hard, i was thinking getting a stock stock one, however what do u all run?

[gubbs3]

I think its ok to say WOW! This is the longest thread I have ever seen.

[Gokou]

Rc1oGtMaN-- I don't think Dennis does CV mods (at least he hasn't said he does, and I haven't asked him), but he probably could. Keep in mind he likes to work on NEW engines only, not used. Besides, if you're gonna send an engine to Dennis, I would send the best that you could-- i.e. an MT-12, RS12, or X-12. Why spend all the money for mods on a less than top-of-the-line engine? You might as well get what you pay for and you'll see the biggest return on your dollar for an engine he knows well, such as the 3 I mentioned. I'd save some bucks and get any of those engines to send to him, or just buy a MT-12 RTU or RTO from Rage RC. Trust me though-- I've seen these suckers run. Even in a dialed 4WD sedan they are wheelspin and drift machines. They are mind-bogglingly powerful-- they stay dead even with big block RB X-15 turbos. It would be WAAAAAAAAAAY too much power in a 2wd truck, especially offroad. But, the powerband on Dennis' motors are smoother and more linear than stock, so they're easier to control. You'd probably have to run the smallest carb restrictor you could find to maintain ANY traction with a Richey in a GT.

To be honest, I don't know what Dennis charges for mods-- I've never asked! I do know that the RTO (his most powerful engine) is above $300 from RageRC... email Rage for specific pricing. I don't know if Dennis is still modding motors for individuals, he's pretty tied up modding motors for Rage. But, it wouldn't hurt to email him!

[TRXboy]

Gokou, i wouldent go with the hardcore Ti chassis, Not worth it if you ask me, i saw one the other day, the finish on it(like corners) are very porly done, and it weight's dubble the weight, which i did not like (Considering my chassis as of now is warped :D) Just a little sugestion, stick with the AE chassis. As for all these GT's, I feel so underpowered. :eek:.Everybody had a rear exsaust ...Looks like i need to do some upgrading..... :D ;)

[Gokou]

I didn't know the finishwork on the hardcore chassis was bad. Not like I was going to get one anyways-- I have a hard time justifying a $105 chassis that is going get scratched up more and more every run =) I really like the stock flat chassis. Light, strong, and looks good. I'm debating brush-polishing the bottom of mine though... then I can just sand light scratches out =)

[pp13b]

gokou, i powder coat my chassi`s , its strong , when it gets to scratched up i take it to work and repowder coat it >lol :D

[n2o]

GT RACER.. yea, thats a Novarossi MT12 sitting in that truck. Pretty sweet engine isnt it?

-n2o

[Bodido]

Finally got a hold of a camera. Here's a couple pics of my GT before a good backyard session.


[ 07-16-2001: Message edited by: Bodido ]

[ 07-16-2001: Message edited by: Bodido ]

[n2o]

400... ;)

[Grant Tokumi]

Do you think the admins will keep this thread going like this? I would imagine something will eventually need to be done to chop up this thread. In only 2 months, this thread has already racked up 17 pages. At this rate, within a year, 100+ pages.

From a search engine stand point, this format won't be useful for people finding info on GTs, unless the search engine can point to a specific page on this thread, which I don't think it does (I could be wrong). It would be like someone searching for "RC10GT return spring" and the search engine comes back with "yes".

Just a thought.

[n2o]

Well, the admin might need to chop this because the data base is getting so big unless they are running RAID on the servers it's prob getting rather slow.. ;)

Just as long as they put like RC10GT - Second Half or something, I dont care..

-n2o

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Something bad happenned today...I was running my GT and all of the sudden, my truck went full speed. I tried putting on the brake, and when that failed I turned left and let my gt go into some hav sunken bricks. It flipped (what I was trying to do) and the engine was going so fast that the tires expanded to roughly 5 inches off the rim. :eek: I tried stopping the flywheel with my shoe, but that just slowed the engine to about 3/4 throttle. Them the engine got so hot that one of the motor mounting screws turned bright orange. :eek: Then I finally stopped it after the fourth try of stepping on the flywheel. After close inspection, the plastic throttle arm broke in two. The brake disc is totally black now.

[TRXboy]

Thats why i put my Throtel return spring on the carb arm, also, take the air filter out and plug the carb, its not the best way but it definetly is the fast's and wont destroy your engine....

[Gokou]

Yep. I have a throttle return spring on my throttle arm. I had the ball pop off the throttle arm once. Luckily I had a return spring. Happened when I was at full throttle too. All of a sudden the engine went back to idle and I had the trigger at full... Took me a minute to figure out what happened. I used to have dual return springs, one on the throttle arm and one on the throttle servo horn. If you turned power to the radio off they would pull the servo back to light brake. This was with my old JR servo though-- my 94357 is just TOO stiff to turn with the power off, and it needs a huge spring to pull it back, which strains the servo a bit. So, I went back to just a return spring on the throttle arm (from pivot ball on throttle arm to rear motor mount screw). That way if it ever pops off again, it will return to idle.

[Yinco the Butcher]

howdy everyone, does anyone know what the carb settings 4 a dynamite .12 SPD are???(2 1/2 high speed and 7 low w/ throttle open or closed???)hey 4 you guys pulling wheelies, what are your setups and conditions( i.e. asphalt, dirt etc..) im using sand paws with a cut down flywheel(2 thousanths bigger than clutch bellw/ 2 shoes added) thanks everyone

[Grant Tokumi]

Yep, throttle return spring. Absolute necessity in my book. Too many things can go wrong and cause runaways without it. While it seems RC10GTMan was unaware of the advantages of a return spring, for those aware and still don't use return spring, RC10GTMan's experience falls in the "It will never happen to me" category.

Others in that same category:
"I always remember to screw down my throttle servo arm"
"My receiver battery wire never comes off"
"My receiver switch never fails"
"My servo never fails"
"My crystal never pops out of the socket"

As for stopping runaways, I know there was great discussion previously on the topic, but my vote is for plugging the exhaust.

BTW, wheres the spellcheck nowadays?

[illbreakit]

For the Dynamite, start with 2 1/2-3 for the high end and 1 1/2-2 for the low end, throttle closed to idle setting. If the motor starts right away, then richen up the low end until it dies, then back off a little bit. That way you allways know that you are starting off on the rich side before making any final tuning. If it doesn't start, sounds like it is flooded, lean out the low end by small increments(1/8 turn) until it fires and idles rich.

[Jace2000]

I luv this thread~! :D
Look at the size of it!!
No doubt the longest running thread on this site.
Let's keep it up guys~! :D

[stormperson]

i would love it more if someone answered my questions.....

what airfilters do people recommend, the stock one? or a motorsavers, or what? i have heard every side of the story, hwoever its been from mag articles which are pretty much written by the people who pay for the adds.

[illbreakit]

Motorsavers are a really good air filter. Look for an air filter with good sealing at the ends, one that squishes the foam instead of it just sitting on the frame. The ends of the foam, where it meets the plastic is usually where dirt gets in so a tight fit is important. Personaly I use a dynamite 3 piece air filter, the one where the foam tube slides over an inner former amd the ends are securely sealed by end plates. I have seen alot of people run the motorsavers and they have never had any problems, say they are great. Hope this helps.

[n2o]

I went and drove my GT for the first time with the new body on. I have the ford body with the back window (right over the engine) cut out. And almost half of the front window is cut out on the drivers side.. After about 2min of driving I stoped it and took a look at the MIP temp gauge to see how it was doing. It said 304*, and was running great.. I have richened out the botom and top end out as much as I can and it still wants to run at 260 with the body off and 280 with it on. I have an idea about some settings to try. But do any of you guys know why my MT12 is runnig so stinking hot?? I also had my friends MT4 temp gun out there and it says my MIP is right on the money..

thnaks

-n2o

[Rc1oGtMaN]

What happened to me, was that the top of the throttle arm broke off. The return spring would have hooked to the top of the arm. (which is the part that broke off.) The rest of the arm was stuck at full throttle. So, I don't think anything could stop this. I'll try a failsafe soon. I can get one fromRadio Model Supplies (http://www.radiomodels.com.au) for only $24. Maybe I'll pick up a return spring instead. I'm leaning towards the failsafe, because it has the cool factor in it. Has anyone tried out the RC speedometer at www.panthertire.com? (http://www.panthertire.com?) I thought it was nice, because it is so out of the ordinary.

[Grant Tokumi]

I second that ouch. I thought your "servo" throttle arm broke, but if your "engine" throttle arm broke, then yup, even the mighty return spring wouldn't have helped you in that runaway.

Keep in mind that even a failsafe cannot replace a return spring. Failsafe relies on the batteries, receiver, servo, and linkages all work correctly to return the throttle to idle. Most instances of runaways involves things such as dead receiver batteries, broken receiver battery wires, throttle arm ball cup pops off, servo arm or linkages slip/fail/break, in addition to the ones in the "It will never happen to me" catergory (see above post). A failsafe will not save your investment in any of the examples above while a return spring will.

I'm not sure if a failsafe will work if another person is on your channel though. If it does, then that is one good thing about failsafe. That and it sounds cool.

[ 04-25-2001: Message edited by: Grant Tokumi ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

You are starting to sway me to the return spring. I just got a RTR GT rolling chassis that needs some stuff, so I'll stay low budget by getting the spring. (yall are teaching me that low budget is many times good. Thus giving me more cash in my pocket. :D)
Gokou, the engine was an OS .12 CV-X. It was the one that I modded, and loved the power, but hated the fuel economy. I think I'll try to get a Picco metal throttle arm for it. Does anyone know if it fits? I'm buying a Duratrax ABC sleeve so that I don't have to rebuild all the time.

[stormperson]

i tried to get my gt started again today, for the first time in a few months, i tried to stick the pull start back on the os .12 cvx, however it wouldnt rebound, or it would do it very slowly. wait, now that i think about it, it was pulling without problem, however, when it returned it was doing so in the opposite direction, and turning over the engine. i didnt even remove the bearing or anything.

anyway, i used the good old yank elim, it hadnt been working and had been slipping alot, but i cleaned it out.

however it didnt start. i couldnt get any presure either. all the fuel tubing is good, i have no clue what it could be.

it was turning over the engine fine, however the glow plug was fine, and the setting worked last time.

also on a somewhat related topic....

i have yet to get a temp guage for my gt. however i always wondered...
(graphic detail, sorta nasty) with a spit test, does it count when there is steam or something rising from the engine, or only when the spit bubbles start to move/bubble, or when spit bubbles form.

thanks!

[Gokou]

I don't know if the picco arm will fit an OS carb. I wanted to try that but couldn't find a part number for the picco. The throttle arm is my only gripe about OS carbs-- they flex way too much and the throttle isn't very precise. The arm on the carb of my OS carb is terrible. It flexes quite a bit. You have to move the trigger to about 20%, just to flex the arm, then it starts moving the carb. Not precise at all! You also might want to try a plastic arm of a rotary novarossi carb-- they are MUCH stiffer than the OS plastic arm. The plastic arm should seal better and dampen some vibration, unlike the metal arm on the picco carbs, which is a good thing.

[stormperson]

update:

the only problem i really have is that....

the engine isnt sucking any fuel into the carb.

i switched the bearing in the pullstarter and it works fine now, turn over the engine, and everything, however, it wont **** any fuel into the carb, i changed all the lines and nothing is blocked, i am holding down on the stinger too...

[TRXboy]

storm, what engine are you running, beacuse i had that same problem with my Picco, cleaned the carb's and everything, i think i have to have the high end needle set 4turns out just to get gas in the engine, but it tuns like its lean..i dunno, works fine for me....thats all that counts.! :rolleyes:

[ioNcasT]

stormperson -

try setting the high end needle back to factory settings and see if that'll work. If I'm correct, you have your high end needle so it's only pulling in air and not any fuel. Fiddle around with it and see what works.

[stormperson]

its a os cvx .12. i will try that tommrorw when i get a chance, and just checking factory is about 2.5 turns out on the high speed?

also in a related topic, i think i stripped on of the holes in my header, thus i could get a new one, or try to make this one work. are there better headers then stock out there?

and thank you for the help so far

[GT RACER]

N20.... yeah that is a sweet engine ive been wanting to get one for a while

[ioNcasT]

Agreed. Although, I think the MT12 is overated on the RC10GT. A little too much power ....

[GT RACER]

yeah ive heard that they have tons of power
i know a guy that has one and his gt hauls

[ioNcasT]

I'm working on a FT RC10GT, and personally - this is just in my opinion - I think the OS .12CVRX is quite powerful enough. With 1 HP and 31,000 - it provides the power if not extra needed in an rc10gt. Those bigger engines are just harder to tune and make more noise =) I'd get one if I were racing on-road and maybe oval racing.

[GT RACER]

yeah i have a CV-R and my gt hauls i dont really need a bigger engine

[TRXboy]

I love the people that pack MT-12's and RB-X's into there 1/10 2wd trucks and ask for more traction.

[atm92484]

Here are some pics of my GT with its new body. Its powered by a 12 CV-R.

http://a1060.g.akamai.net/f/1060/597/30minutes/www.zing.com/picture/p5d95d972ff2750cf6d9509265191e056/fe97f491.jpg

http://a1060.g.akamai.net/f/1060/597/30minutes/www.zing.com/picture/p317cdad31efa44d4997d01b17f173998/fe97f48f.jpg

Notice the 2 oz. of lead under the front body mounts.

This GT started out in the Fall of 1999 as a Team GT (old tub chassis). I've kept upgrading and now its up to Factory Team trim minus the graphite shock towers and unotitanium shock shafts.

[Gokou]

Ouch! I've never seen a throttle arm break. What kind of engine was it? You're right, a return spring doesn't save you from that... I don't know about the speedos, I can't see them being very accurate because at high speeds the tires grow quite a bit, thus the speedometer would read quite lower than the actual speed of the truck.

[ 04-25-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[GT RACER]

the pics are not working

[illbreakit]

n2o, On your overheating problem, Have you calibrated your mip temp gauge? They are not allways bead on, can be out 20-30 degrees. If not take the gauge and put the sensor in a pot of water on the stove. Just the sensor, not the box :eek: Then boil the water and see what the reading is, water boils @ 216F approx. If the gauge is out, just subtract the amount from your engine reading and that will be the temp. The gauges are accurate on scale, meaning that if the temp changes 10 deg then the reading will change 10, just that the numbers trully aren't the numbers. Hope your not more confused :confused: :rolleyes: :) LOL

[n2o]

Well I never stuck my MIP in boiling (212*) water. But when I had it on the engine, the RayTek MT4 temp gun said mine was right on the money. At 280 on the MIP the RayTek said like 278.. But at 304 on the MIP the RayTek said 303. I took my truck to the track though and it never got over 240 and thats fine for a Novarossi running 30%. I just wanted to see if anyone else was having that problem with their 'overkill' engine.. hehe.. Anyway, I dont need more traction like someone said ^^.. With bowties on I can wheel stand all over the track all day and sometimes MISS the track on a big double.. haha.. And when I run Fuzzys, I just know that they are only good for one run.. :rolleyes:

I love the power of this engine though, it's sick how fast I can cut down the straight...

-n2o

[GT burner]

Hey guys does anyone use or know of someone using the Trinity Allen drivers? They are supposed to be guaranteed for life (even the tips) I read on Tower's site. Are they good? I want to get some indestructable tipped drivers that will be good enough to tackle motor screws and mounting screws.

[atm92484]

Ok guys I got a problem. I keep loosing the outer bearing on my clutch. I'm not sure if the bearing explodes then forces the clutch clip off or if the clutch clip just comes loose and the bearing falls off. I think I'm going to replace my clutch nut just to be sure a worn clutch nut isn't the problem. I lost two bearings today and I really want to get this problem fixed. I'm running a 12 CV-R and the clutch nut is about 2 years old (it came with the truck). Anyone have any other ideas on what to do.

[TRXboy]

ATM- get a new cluch nut, that used to happebn to me, and it gets exspensive replacing the bearings every run, but here is what i used to do, i used to squezz the e clip a little to stay on and i didnt have anymore problems, i but i would replace it first.

[atm92484]

Thanks TRX thats what I thought. I just wanted to make sure no one else had any secrets.

[illbreakit]

Just bringin' the most auesomest thread back to the top. Too lasy too scroll down I guess LOL :rolleyes:

[rc10racing]

hey this is the first time iam checking out this thread its really helpful my gt is running better then any other engine ive had my os cv .12 is on its 6th gallon :D and still has great compression and tommorow is my birth day and my parents are taking me to race :) any advice?

[n2o]

Thats cool.. I am working on the Global Packaging Team right now because we have over 2500 apps that have to be deployed to all of the Conoco locations. I am a NT4 MCSE and working on my Windows 2000 MCSE.

-n2o

[Bodido]

N20... My cert's with NT4 as well. I'm taking the CCNA exam in a couple weeks, then back to work on Win2k. I haven't been studying too much lately. :rolleyes: It's been warm enough to run my truck alot, work on my Integra GSR, and wakeboard. :D My studying has certainly suffered. Enough abut work though. :(

rc10racing... Good question. I'm likely to go to my first race on Sunday. I've already got my ROAR membership. I've gone to the standard set-up on my truck (as if it matters with my driving). Went with the shop's recommendation of Losi silver step pins, and Losi red rib fronts.
I know I need a hole for a transponder. Not sure where, so I'll do that at the track. I'm getting there early to practice. I may buy an exra crystal set when I get there.

What am I forgetting?

[stormperson]

just alot of pracite, i have yet to race my gt since the closest track is 2 hours away, however i have done alot of electric racing and its the same, PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE.

it makes all the difference in the world. also try to run different lines, such as a all out one, a defensive one. also try to find the different places to pass on the track, then from there learn how to pass in those places and how not to be passed.

[Railman]

Bodido, Don't get too caught up in the competitive side of racing too soon. It takes away from having a good time. Be patient & try to have the attitude that your racing to learn, & not just to win. I have made the mistake of loosing my temper at races as I have seen many do. It's very easy to do when you start out, & it's just not worth it. If you crash too much during a heat, just take a deep breath, & slow down a little. Concentrate on driving your lines, & picking your brake points. Just try to keep this in mind & you'll have a good time, & learn more also. Have fun! :cool:

[TRXboy]

i wish i had a track.... :(

[n2o]

Lets have an AGE poll or something. I would just like to know where everyone goes all day. I am 19 and a Network Engineer for Conoco, Inc so unless we are having a bad problem, I have some time to just mess around on the net. Thats why I post a lot all day. But this board is dead from around 7:00am CST to at lease 3 or so PM CST. SO either everyone is in school or at work!

Going to the track for lunch today! Cant wait!

-n2o

[Bodido GT]

I'm a 28 year-old Network engineer (MCSE) on contract at The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation :) I stay pretty busy usually, but I always try to treat myself to some slack time :rolleyes: Lately I've been real busy. Migrating 1100+ users from Win95 to Win2k. My track is almost 2 hours from where I work, so no lunchtime practice :(

[Bodido]

My race plans for the weeekend are officially shot down. I kind of forgot about a relative's B-day celebration. DOH. No worries though. They race off-road every two weeks, so I'll get my chance. I'll still get some good laps in the field ( city owned :rolleyes: ) behind my house. I'll be working on my temporary track barriers this morning. I've only got one jump right now cuz I don't want to tick off the city workers who mow the field. It's not racing, but it's good practice. Since I've been doing nothing but running in a closed course (though kind of a cheesy closed course) the past few weeks, my driving has improved a ton. I've found that there are throttle settings between idling and wide slam open.... What do you know :D

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll be trying to apply it all. I did some bmx and mx racing as a kid/teen, so unfortunately I've seen the bad side of competition. It's not hard to take it too seriously sometimes.
I was at the rc track watching a couple weeks ago. Trying to learn the routine so I don't look like a moron. I was watcing 1/8 scale buggies. WOW...btw. This one driver absolutely flipped out on a turn marshall. The marshall wouldn't flip the guys buggy because the driver was revvin the soup out of it. When the announcer is telling you to calm down over the loudspeaker in mid-race, you have a problem!!! I vowed to never be THAT guy.

[ 04-28-2001: Message edited by: Bodido ]

[JP]

rc10racing - happy b-day, its prolly too late, but dont be nervous and drive your own race...oh yea, stay away from the 'boards.' :)

I'm 14 years old and a full time student, but during the summer i will work either at TRAK Auto, or TRACKS Slotcar Raceway. Right now im just volunteering.

[Tundra2]

Do you have an RC10GT webpage? Post it here so i can check it out. Also I am interested in videos.

Thanks

[TRXboy]

HOLD UP! Vids, i wanna see!

[n2o]

Just got back from the track with my GT. These GT's are hands down the best nitro trucks you can get. I have mine dialed in very well right now as well. The engine is tuned in and running at about 230-240 on the track running 30%. And my suspension is right on the money, I got a ton of steering and good traction out of it without adding weight to the front like so many have said. It just turns and jumps so well now it's like a differnt truck. I raced a 3 Losi buggys that were very fast to be electric and smoked them. I lapped one and just stayed half a lap ahead of the others.. ;)

Anyway, I would have been there a lot longer but that stupid little C clip came off that holds the clutch bell on and I lost a bearing and had to stop racing... Oh well, anyone have a good fix for this??

Later

-n2o

[Grant Tokumi]

Movies of RC10GT found here:

R/C Archive (http://www.rcarchive.com/rca/movies.html)

n2o, TRXboy mentions on page 18 of this thread to squeeze the e-clip a bit before putting it back on the clutchnut. I'll confirm TRXboy's claim that doing this with a set of needle nose pliers before putting the e-clips back on seems to help keep them in place.

[ 04-29-2001: Message edited by: Grant Tokumi ]

[Grant Tokumi]

Hold on to your nipples.

http://www.rcarchive.com/rca/gifs/rc/rearbody.jpg

Traxxas Part #3727 $3.00, 2 rear body posts in a package. The part is actually a Rustler battery hold down, but its a direct replacement for GT rear body mounts. The nut on the bottom is NOT included in the package. Needs to be a 3mm nut (Tamiya nut).
I can't take full credit for this idea, it was shown to me by a local racer.

Never lose your nipples again.

[SteveP]

Grant - ever try the RPM body mounts? I installed them on my truck and they're held up fine. ... much better than the stock mounts!!! :D

[Railman]

I use screen door aluminum blind nut & screw . Its a 6x32 aluminum screw and T post, all you have to do is drill a hole in the post for the body clip. All alluminum, neat, light & strong. Sears carries them in the Hillman hardware section. ;) :)

[TRXboy]

Cool, Im all about the RPM mounts tho, i have landed countless time on my roof and not once have those things gave. Now here is what i have to say....did anybody see Saxton's GT in the new RCCA, WOW i never thought it was possible to make a stock AE body look so good, i might have to pi