Associated RC10GT Forum v1.0

[Gokou]

Woohoo! 500th post in the thread! =)

[stormperson]

yay.... go thread.... jk but i remeber there being a 3k long post on rcracing.com entitled fuel for 4 stroke. however i figure the admins would make us get a new thread if it got that long.

Q about fuel line: how long should the one from the tank to the carb be? thanks!

[atm92484]

My fuel line is usually long enough to go from the tank, around the back of the engine, and to the carb.

[Turboduck01]

Here was my setup for the loose dirt track that got very rutted after so many heats, STOCK. The only thing that I think really helped was having no spacers in the back shocks, although it looked a lil' goofy sagging so low to the ground, it did great in the corners,and that is where i was able to capitalize. I ran 0 degre toe in in the front, and my shocks are, 35 up front, blue springs, 30 in back with the greens, worked fine. The losi guys, some of the pulled their trucks off the track with their piccos at 300! They were so fast! It's amazing how fast the sponsored drivers are, espeiciall adam drake, brian kinwald and Travis Amezcua. These guys hall... Jared Tebo was at the race also, the kid who is sponsored by Associated, he had some tranny problems during the main. But oh well, go GT's!

[Railman]

ATM9284, I also run my fuel line around the back ( 4" to 4 1/2"). I have only recently gone to this however. I think it helps in tuning for lower temps, why do you run yours the long way?
Gokou, whats the deal, you just do a cameo apearance for #500?

[ 05-04-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[TRXboy]

I dont think its that-i have not changed the pressure line- and when i did(Because it was acting up) I made it even longer-and its not that gas is comming out of the tank- its almost like the engine is " Spitting" It up out of the carb( Gas) And its not like its rich....

[Gokou]

A cameo? I suppose I did... I saw the thread was on post #499 this morning and decided I should have #500 :p I didn't get a chance to read any of the other messages because I had to run.

Thought I'd post this though, the GT "everywhere" setup, courtesy of Regan LeBlanc (mechanic for Saxton)

Front, #2 pistons with 35 wgt. oil and silver springs. Outside outside on the tower and arm, zero toe in or out, 1-2 degree's camber, three washers under the ball on the steering knuckle (2 for flat chassis). Arms level with chassis kick-up

Rear, #1 pistons with 30 wgt. oil and green springs. Outside outside on the tower and arm. 1.5 degree hubs with the 3 degree arm mounts (go with new FTGT hubs and mounts)
1-2 degrees camber, link on the lower inside hole (bulkhead) rear axles level for ride height. CVD spacing-- large spacer on the inside and then 2-3 thin right by the axle pin on the outside. I do use the HG aluminum bulkhead (same geometry as stock) and also custom make flat 4 cell NiMH reciever packs for juice. I also hand make a Carbon brace from trans to rear bulkhead, (trinity one is also nice but heavy) Lunsford ti used everywhere along with his ti screws.
66-15 for gearing, AE 4 shoe clutch with biggest shoes you can get in there allowing them to still close properly.

I find it interesting he uses the AE 4-shoe clutch and not the MIP.

[ 05-05-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[GT burner]

I noticed that my engine before it died (rest its little troublesome self) there was fuel spitting out also. There wasn't enough to create a problem of clogging filters but I never had to oil my inner foam pad on my os filter when it was used. Does any fuel come up through anyone elses' engines? I thoght this was normal.

[Railman]

TRXboy, If it didn't do it before & it does it all the time now, it's probably a loose piston/sleeve fit. When it fires, normally there is a tight fit at the top of the cylinder. If it's not tight enough the combustion will leak past into the crankcase, that was just filled with fresh fuel & air on the intake stroke. This combustion leakage is called blowby. At this point in time the crank intake window is still open, & due to the sudden combustion leakage, will blow some of the fuel charge out the carb. In my opinion, this is the most likely scenario. :eek:

Blowby also makes for difficult restarts when hot because it fouls the fresh fuel charge. It also can lead to hot running engines, because it restricts fresh fuel comming in, & retains more of the heat instead of it going out the exhaust.
:(

[Railman]

Goku, It's good to hear from you! I think Saxton runs the 4 shoe out of loyalty more than anything else. The MIP works better at low RPM's. I read Regans comment on trying the steel flywheel to help control the MT12, & he said that it just wouldn't steer with it. Thats where the 4 shoe just doesn't work as well as the MIP. You get full release (#2 setup) with the MIP at low idle, allowing for good drag brake entering turns. My steel flywheel works fine for steering. No push, although I would think it takes a little longer for the rpm to come down. The clutch bell, & bearings also stay cooler with the MIP setup. Just some thoughts. :cool:

[atm92484]

Railman, I run it back there so the engine wouldn't shut down so quickly when the car flips. Plus I couldn't keep my fuel filter out of the flywheel the other way.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Tower has a big sale on almost all of its engines http://www.towerhobbies.com/promos/01mj/osmg2010.html.

[GTboy]

Railman:

I run a longer fuel line as well. It goes around the head and into the carb from the back. This gives me more fuel to keep running when the car flips and also I can then use tie straps around the silicone exhaust coupler to secure my extra fuel filter from bouncing around. I do try to make sure the fuel tubing does not touch the exhaust though to keep the fuel as cool as possible.

A new question for all:

I have just installed the MIP clutch and have it on setting #2. It is not to bad but I have not had the chance to try the other settings yet. Has anyone tried settings 3-4 and what happens? Is there even less slip and is the feel more like direct drive. I'm looking to find even less slip so that my rossi will grab traction sooner at low rpms to build up speed so that there will be less wheel spin when the rpm's start to come on. I have a smooth throttle finger so I'm not to worried if the clutch grabs alot sooner.
Let me know your findings please.

:)

[Gokou]

GTBoy - I run setup #3, but I drilled 3 3/32" holes about 3/4 of the way through the clutch near the leading edge (opposite the pins in the flywheel). #3 engages quite early and if you are driving on a high-traction surface the motor bogs down sometimes. On a lower traction surface though it isn't a problem. Drilling the holes just lets the clutch grab a little later (but still earlier than setting #2) and I find it perfect for my truck (running an X-12 and 16/65 gearing). Even engaging at lower RPMs with the leading-edge clutch it will still wheelie if it has the traction, and the low-rpm driving is MUCH better since the clutch keeps the engine coupled to the rear wheels. You can do a lot of low-speed driving without clutch slip, makes it MUCH easier to control. I'd suggest you try setting #3 and see how well you like it.

[ 05-05-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[Railman]

GTboy, Do you run on dirt or pavement? Do you race? I havn't found anyone at my race track that runs leading shoe (sorry GOKOU).
The reason you want the clutch to grab & release at a higher RPM is for more effective braking, not so much for
acceleration. If you want earlier engagement I would suggest that you add a little more weight to the existing MIP weight.Just drill a new hole along side the existing hole & fill with a small pin. This will keep the engagement & release more smooth & consistent than leading shoe. Just my opinion of course, right GOKOU? LOL
;)

[TRXboy]

Ok guys found the problem- sorta stupid on my part- really stupid acualy- i was using my friends bump start is kept the front end pointing strait up starting it every time so when the engine got turned over gas would go both in and out of the carb- DUM!

[GTboy]

Railman:

Yes I race. Off road track,120'x70'. I'm actually a very experienced racer I just have never used the MIP clutch before on a GT. Today I'll try setting #2 and #3 in the heats and find the one I like for the main. I'll let you know which one I like. the track should be medium to high traction if its watered, and slippery as **** if not.

:)

[Gokou]

Lmao RAILMAN... I just picked up a new 4-n-1 today just so I'd have the weights (I lost the ones for my current 4-n-1). I'll have to give setup #2 a try when I get a chance. My leading edge engages and releases very consistently, just at rather low RPMs. The clutch stays grabbed even when you let off the gas, giving quite a bit of compression braking. Another thing to keep in mind-- if you shock load the tranny (say land on-power from a jump) the trailing edge setup will allow some slip and possibly save your tranny, while the leading edge setup will stay pretty much solid, which runs a greater risk of destroying stuff. How about that RAILMAN? hehehe

[stormperson]

as i took apart my os .12 cvx today to get it ready for its new piston and sleeve, i realized that the duratrax stage 2 heatsink sits ontop of the sleeve. so i can see the lip of the sleeve, is this normal?

[Railman]

Stormperson, All heatsink HEADS sit on top of the sleeve, including the one you took off. The reason is thats where the heat starts...inside the sleeve in the combustion chamber. Besides how would you seal in the compression any other way?

[stormperson]

makes sense... i just thought it would go over the sleeve and then seal ontop of the block. oh well. at least i know that wasnt causing my problems.

[GTboy]

Well, the verdict is in. I much prefer setting #2 than #3 for the MIP 4n1 clutch. Our track yesterday was extremely rough and the best feel was with that setup. If traction was found I could still easily lift the front end if not careful.

BTW fellows, I'm using a Nova Pipe on my Nova Rossi side exhaust ( slide carb & blue restrictor) and the difference from the stock AE pipe is dramatic. Still lots of torque but way better mid and top end.

:)

[Railman]

Gokou, Lmao? What's that?

[Turboduck01]

I know! I wish the Associated Website showed as many pics and results as Team Losi does :mad: Team Losi has some nice pictures on their site, and all of associated's pictures are old....

[GTboy]

Railman:

lmao = laughing my butt off!

:)

[TRXboy]

OK guys new engine time- it think no matter what i do my picco will never be the same after this piston burns up- he crank is 3 pistons old and everything is just geting nasty- so what do you guys think i should get- i dont want a rear exsaust(I like my truck under some what control thank you very much) but still more power then my Picco- so what do you all ecomend? I was thinking the CV-R, what do you guys think?

[stormperson]

i have heard the cv r is a pretty good engine, however its harder to tune then the cv.

by the way, how did u like the picco, i have heard great things and horrible things about it. how much power does it make, how relable, how easy to tune? and would u recommend it? (my friends might be replacing his pro .15 in his ruslter, since he is unable to tune it, and it stalls in the middle of every tank)

[TRXboy]

Storm- it is a great engine if you know how to tune- one of the RCCA stafers said a good line about it(I think derek) "Great usable power" But you have to take your time tuning it and some pistons last 2 gallons- some last 10(I got 8 out of mine)

[atm92484]

I have a CV-R and I love it. I want to get a temperture gun and a Picco Pro Pipe so I can properly tune it and get the most power out of it. As it is right now with the AE pipe and running cool enough for me to grab the head after every run, its plenty powerful enough. Yes it is harder to tune than the CVs but it still seems really easy. It just didn't like to start for the first 2 or 3 tanks but that is probably because it was rich and not broken in.

[GTboy]

TRXboy:

I've used the OS CV-R with a rotary carb for almost all of last season and I'm using a HPI Nova Rossi side exhaust/slide carb on my GT now. I liked the CV-R alot but I'm in love with my Rossi. I'm a satisfied convert.
I still feel that my Rossi pulls better than the CV-R ever did. 2 different engines but both capable if you can drive well. If you can't drive well stay with a OS CV. Get the Odonnell connecting rod and head for it and you'll be able to hold your own, especially on a slippery track.

:)

[TRXboy]

ATM- ALl O.S's are a pain to break in :)

GTboy- I had a Picco .12- so i know what its like to have more then enought power- i just dont want a rear exsaust engin until they are more combatable with 1/10 trucks9Like headers and things) and besides, its one thing to have power-its another not to be able to keep the front end down no matter what you do- whats the point of the power if you cant control it?


p.s- geez dies this thread move fast.

[Railman]

I just heard that Billy Easton won at Hemet this weekend! Wooohooo! Chad Bradley won 1/8.
Would love to see Billy's truck.
:cool: :) :cool: :) :cool: :) :cool: :D

[ 05-07-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[GTboy]

TRXboy:

I understand about the power thing but I think you haven't realised that my Rossi (1hp) is the regular original side exhaust not the new rear exhaust style. Its totally compatible with the standard header. I use the Nova Rossi pipe with it and a AE blue restrictor. This still creates great torque but also a much smoother power band with more top end than the AE pipe which is all torque and falls off on the top end much sooner.

:)

[morfeeis]

i have a new gt on the way i want to know what is a nitro/water/shock prof reciver box for the gt :confused:

[illbreakit]

Is there really much difference in the gt flat chassis over the tub chassis? My friend is looking to by a gt (Brought another back into the hobby Yah) but he's not sure what to get> I hawe the tub chassis and havent driven the flat so I can't help him. I was thinking of one to convert mine for looks and cleaning ease, not much to change. My freind is just getting back into the hobby after a 16 year hiatus. We have found some good deals on ebay on tub chassis, but he wants to outdo me one by the new version. Should he save some dough and get a tub, convert later, or spring for the flat? Ps he is looking for a complete truck w/radio and doesn't want the $435.00 RTR sport w/bushings (don't blame him) ebays usually have some hopups allready.
Thanx for any advice cause I really wana race him. (tired of him watching me crash, wana watch him Lmao
good one GTboy

[morfeeis]

HEY BEAKIT IF YOU ARE LOOKING AT THAT BLUE UPGRADE KIT FOR $47 TOWERHOBBIES SELLS IT FOR 45 I THINK AND I FOUND THE NAME OF THAT BOX I WAS LOOKING FOR (Mugen Receiver Box MBX-4) WILL THERE BE ANY MODS I NEED TO DO TO MY TRUCK TO GET IT TO FIT IN THERE :cool:

[RC10GTMark]

im thinking about getting a duratrax axis. should I keep the GT for fun or sell it? I have the rtr with bushing =).

Option 2, add bearing and get it to factory team status and race it.

what should I do? Im gettin bored with the RTR and the bushing and **** I dont wanna race it, to hard on the truck.

[Railman]

GTboy, Thanks for the clarification on Gokou's post. Lmao too! :D

Illbreakit, We bought 2 used tub GT's & ran for a long time. We recently went for 2 new FTGT's. They have changed some little things in the suspension setup that makes them work better overall. I would highly recomend the upgrade kit for yours. It's quite a bargain if as it includes most of the new GT components.

As for your friend, a lot of guys will buy a truck, try it & not like nitro. I would definately recomend the new chassis set up..either the team or factory team.
Most of the cars & trucks we have were used when we bought them, & have been good buys for us. It's still a gamble though unless you know who you're buying from. But it's also very educational to build it from scratch. It makes it much easier to maintain. As always though just my opinion.

Mark, definately option #2, you've got to at least try it! While it's apart, go for an MIP diff rebuild kit, & new diff gear & idler gear, unless it's fairly new. Total: full bearings, gears & all... under $50.

[ 05-08-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[ioNcasT]

What's a good company or website to pick up rims (wheels) for a FT RC10GT? Thanks

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Do any of yall know what nouva faor's website is? Thanks.

[Jace2000]

ioNcast:
Associated or Proline's wheel will do just fine. But if you're looking for some better looking ones, try RPM's. Their website is at RPM (http://www.rpmrcproducts.com)

[ 05-09-2001: Message edited by: SteveP ]

[TRXboy]

Anyone try that new tire line started by saxton- like treadz or somthing" I might pick up a set.


P.S RCCA you ever gunna do a test on them?

[Grant Tokumi]

I've seen a few sets of Saxtons's tires at my local track. "Treadz" I believe is the brand. I guess Saxton gave some out for test runs. They seem to hook up good. From what I've been told, they will run for around $25/pair, they come with tire, rim, foam, and the best part is they are already assembled and glued! No more GLUEING!! I don't know if they are available to the public yet. This is just stuff I've heard, so don't quote me on any of the above info.

Its about time someone out there starts challenging Proline's reign. Proline has too much of a monopoly on the tire market in my opinion. Most racers already know that tires are the key to success. So much new technology and development on new trucks, engines, geometries, suspension, but I haven't seen much of anything new from a tire standpoint. Hopefully this new tire will stir things up a little. And no better person to head it up than a big name racer like Rich Saxton.

[JP]

I wouldnt call it a monopoly. If you dont want to use their stuff, then dont, but they're popular for a reason...they're the best! No one is forcing you to use it, unlike ComEd here :rolleyes: we have no other choice to choose! Simply put: Pro-Line is the most popular because they're the best around. As soon as Losi, or some other line comes out with a tire thats better, I'll buy that, not Pro-Line, but until then, im faithful to them.

[GTboy]

I use Proline and Losi tires. I find on smoother tracks I like the Proline because they have a flatter profile. On rough bumpy tracks I use the Losi Silver Step Pins. With the rounder profile they don't get caught as much in ruts when going in a sideways drift. A definite advantage on rough tracks!

I have found that both brands of tires wear pretty evenly as well.

[Grant Tokumi]

JP, I use nothing but Proline. And like you say, its because there's just nothing else to choose from. Thats why the "monopoly". Much like how Microsoft is the monopoly.

Losi and Associated is like Apple and IBM (back in the day). Both were battling for #1, stealing each other's ideas, etc. But in the background, Microsoft was racking in the dough because both systems relied on Microsoft's products. Both Losi and Associated relies on Proline tires (which are supposedly the best, or at least most popular) to make their product complete.

No one has to use Microsoft products either, but we kind of just do it don't we? :)

[TRXboy]

geez...all i wanted to know was if it was a good tire....

[Yinco the Butcher]

Howdy everyone, I was wondering what is a good tire for street racing my GT. I' ve had the truck for 2 WEEKS and the bowtie T's are completely bald. After I get it ready I'm gonna punk my friend w/ Kyosho ultima so any help is appreciated ;) thanks!!

Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of men

[Jace2000]

SteveP:
Thanks for the correction. Stupid me... :D

Railman:
LMAO :D Imagine your surprise when you hit that link. Sorry man, I should have checked before I made the post.

Yinco:
A lot of ppl use the Road Hog or the Speed Hog series from Proline. You can check out their products at www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/home.html (http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/home.html)
Look under products and then on-road tires just under the off-road tires.

[Yinco the Butcher]

Jace, I think i'll try the road hawgs. They look like they'll hook up nice. Thanks :D

Twism, the GT is an awesome truck, you really shouldn't knock it.

[machinehead]

I don't know about you guys and I don't want to stir up bad blood, but I am new to this, well I have been out if it for about 10 years and I just bought a used RC10GT. I took it to my local track and everyone there was running Losi. I mean everyone but me. Unfortunately I **** so they make me look even worse. They all said the GT is old technology and the Losi is much better and easier to drive. Is it really that bad or will I eventually become competitive without buying another truck?

[Yinco the Butcher]

machinehead, I hear what you're saying. when I bought my GT the guy working the counter told me that the losi was a better truck. But the way I look at it, you do the best with what you have and if anyone has a problem with that, then its exactly that, their problem. Just remember, practice. :)

[JP]

Grant - no, Pro-Line isnt a monopoly. Use Losi tires, theyre available at 90%+ where Pro-Line are available. Use the new Treadz tires (gunna be popular!), YOU have a choice, same with Microsoft. I didnt want Microsoft, so ya know what I did? Asked for AMD Athelon, which is what I got, for cheaper price. Not to mention faster too. Pro-Line is popular because hobby shops stock them, hobby shops stock them because people buy them, people buy them because they're the best, simply put.

TRX - LOL!

[TRXboy]

If anything the problem that i have with the losi(Well more my problem then the losi) Is that its harder to drive- to much steering and i spin out wayy to much- and whats this about the RC10GT being outdated....they didnt relese and "Update" Kit for nothing...DUH...and as for Twism- if the GT wasent a good truck then why does it still domonate- why hasent it been replaced....or are you just jeluse? O yeah- and i am happy yet sad to say the GT wont be my jump truck anymore... :(... but then again...i have a track now... :) but seriusly- i still have a cuple a months and i have a sick jump comming up that should rase some eye brows...

[TRXboy]

O yeah...ill sya it again...how is the new tredz tires gunna be....considering the last time i said it Pro-line got turned into a Mega corp monopoly- microsoft got brought in somewhere(I DUNNO!) and Losi is the "Under dog" Or somthin'....ROFLMAO!.

[Railman]

I don't see how ProLine has a monopoly. Around here there are an equal number of each brand used. It just depends on setup & track conditions. It will be interesting to see how Treadz enters the mix...maybe a little more competitive? Tires are one of the single biggest expenses in this sport. Big $ in it!
I hate to nitpick but Microsoft makes software, Intell makes the processors. But anyway I get your drift. :p ;)

[ 05-10-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[GTboy]

A note to twism or twinky or whatever you like to be called...

That lousy GT you depise just came 1,2,3 at the Roar Nationals last weekend. I wonder what would happen with new technology? Actually, AE got it right the first time and running upgrades have made the truck top of the line.

:)

[machinehead]

TRXboy, I wasn't saying that I thought the GT was outdated I am telling you what these people were telling me. I couldn't tell a good truck if it landed on my head.

I read an earlier post about some guy saying not to be a GT clone, but where I live eveyone has Losi. I guess that makes them Losi clones...
I think what it is, is that the local race winner runs Losi so everyone else thinks it is the truck, and goes out and buys one. But what do I know?

[TRXboy]

Sorry dude- that wasent ment to be a bashing on you- i was just sayin...

[Turboduck01]

does anyone have real race? i wanna race people... i won it at a raffle : )
RC10GT:1,2,3??? are you serious? sweet...

[TRXboy]

Hey GTboy- you wouldent happen to know who one- im thinkng saxton, huges,pavis.

[ 05-10-2001: Message edited by: TRXboy ]

[Railman]

Jace, Thats an industrial supply house! Is that the same RPM?

[SteveP]

Wrong URL. Try it again - I fixed! :D

[Jace2000]

Machinehead:

I understand what you mean man.
I used to drive a XXX-NT and I sold it for a RC10GT. I switched over because I didn't like the way the XXX-NT handled. In my opinion, it had too much steering and not enough rear grip causing constant spin-outs at my track. Our track has low grip and loose dirt making it a very bad place to race XXX-NTs unless you really dial it in properly. I see many XXX-NTs and they all seem to sit at their pit during most of the day trying this and that.
Another thing is parts and option availability. The XXX-NT is LIMITED like **** . I didn't want to live with that or wait for it either.

I'm not the best of drivers but I recently won a locally organized race with my GT and it was my first time racing that truck. I had Losies and HPIs as my rivals but I won fair and square.
Once you get to know your truck and get accustomed to its handling, I'm sure you'll be kicking their butt in no time.
If you have any questions on how to dial in your truck for your track, just ask here and I'm sure everyone will help out.
:)

[Jace2000]

Guys...

The web address for Treadz is www.treadztires.com (http://www.treadztires.com)
The site seems to be not working properly at the moment but it is their site.
They seem to be partners with GRP (Gandini Racing Production). GRP is quite famous in the on-road and especially in the 1/8 foam tire racing scene. They seem to be partners with Ellegi and Fast Tires. If Treadz is using GRP's technology then it should be quite good.

GRP's web address is at www.grp-gandini.com (http://www.grp-gandini.com)

[ 05-10-2001: Message edited by: Jace2000 ]

[illbreakit]

I think what Twizzler was trying to say was that the gt is a very capable truck but, where he lives, some people prefer the xxxnt. His keyboard was all screwed up, but I bet he has it fixed now :mad:

[GTboy]

TRXboy:

This is what I remember

1. Billy Easton AE
2. Pavidas AE
3. Hughes AE
4. Kinwald Losi
5. Kortz Kyosho
6. Calmarie? ?
7. Drake Losi
8. ?
9. Francis Losi
10. Tebo AE

Saxton didn't make the Main

illbreakit:

Are you coming to the Quesnel Off Road Regional Race this coming May Long Weekend? 30 min. Gas Truck A main. Hope to see you here!

:)

[Grant Tokumi]

Alright, alright, forgive the analogies and making a big deal bringing Proline into the this. :) I guess I'm just venting cause my new set of tire knobbies (Proline Bowties) wore down around %30 in 1 day.

I realize now that "monopoly" is not the appropriate word. How about "comfortable"? Proline (and Losi for that matter) is in a comfortable position in the tire market cause nobody challenges them. Kind of the "forget R&D on tires, people will buy what we have anyways". I incorrectly labeled that monopoly.

To get this more constructive, and change to a general tire discussion some suggestions that I had might be:

1. Have them preassembled so that the consumer doesn't have to worry about drilling air holes, foam trimming, glueing, etc. Tires will hopefully be more true too if done on the production line.

2. Develop something to make the tire/foam/rim interchangable. Glueing to me is old school already. Development should be way past that by now. Previous 3 piece rims didn't hold and were claimed to be heavy. Perhaps a main rim and smaller compression rings to hold them on the rim. In order for something like this to work, the tire x-section (the part that attches to the rim)need to change from the current square x-section (good for glueing) to a section like an inverted T. Then the rim can have something to grab into to hold the tire in place.

4. Anybody company ever experiment with low-profile tires/rims like on 1/8th scale buggies?

5. Belted to reduce expansion at high speeds?

5. Ditch the foam and use air filled plastic/rubber inserts.

I guess I would just like to see some kind of movement in tire development. Do something. Make them blue :).

[TRXboy]

" The blue tires are cool but they smell horible!"

RCCA- never knew people smelt there tires..hehe

[stormperson]

you have at least 10 feet away of them once they are opened not to smell them. however i am almost done running my break in tanks on asphault and i am running them in the front, (i was doing some slolams too) and i have yet to even see the edge come off em. and i ran them hard for at least 6 tanks before i got my new piston and sleeve. with my normal tires i loose the nice edge on the front tires in one or two runs. i have yet to ever see the edge go away on these.

[Turboduck01]

i wanna see pictures of the GT's winning at Hemet... : (

[Jace2000]

Snoozy:
Welcome aboard :)

[machinehead]

What go you guys recomend for springs and shock oil? Where I run at there are lots of big and small jumps, not too many places to really pick up speed.
Also I am always flipping over when I jump. Its killing my truck. Any advice?
Thanks

[Snoozy]

whoa, I just came from the HPI boards...there are a TON of people on here!

[Railman]

Machinehead, Which way is it flipping...nose down or up?

[machinehead]

Railman... Nose down.

[illbreakit]

GTBoy; Sorry I won't be able to make Quesnel.
How's the track up there? I was there 6 years ago and it was pretty small, plus only 3 gas trucks, kinda boaring when they don't show up. 30 minute mains eh? we go em here to but I havent made one yet. Gona try this Sunday, :D made some trick aluminium front arms that should be indestructible :D :D :D . They look cool too. As soon as I find a camera I'll show pick's. Good luck at the races!!!!!!!!

Mine flips nose down too, only of the jump at the end of the strait. The guys at the track tell me I gota let off the throttle before the jump and then mash it when i hit it. Just can't seem to get it right so I'll try some rear wieght this weekend. Let ya know how it works

[ 05-11-2001: Message edited by: illbreakit ]

[JP]

Use silver in rear springs, and blue in front. Thats what I use and I had to keep my battery on the front of the car to keep the nose down! and as illbreakit says, let off the throttle a few feet before the jump and gas it right when the jump starts.

[illbreakit]

I'll see ya all on the flipside if the weekend. Happy racing, good luck and keep the gt's shiny side up, but if ya slip, remember the words of my beloved hero Homer Simpson
DOOHH :D

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Illbreakit, isn't the shiny side of most trucks (mine at least) the chassis? :p

[Railman]

Something you guys might be interested in...Titan/Trinity has a new engine mount for the GT's. 1st, 2nd, 3rd place used them at the nationals at Hemet. I want to see Billy's truck!

[TRXboy]

What could be made diffrent about engine mounts- and just a quick one- where do you guys mount the transponders on your GT's?

[stormperson]

i think it acts a as chassis brace too, is what i read in the new rc car (with the yellow and green xxxt on the cover) it also showed pics of other new things they are coming out with. pretty much the same old same old, shock towers, mounts.

it was intersteing though, they showed the current trinity tranny brace (which i have). same color and everything, even though they say it will be anno'd in AE blue. which leads me to ask.....

is it AE blue like the chassis, or like their screws?

quick question...

whats the longest lasting body aviable for the gt? i have the stock rtr body which is very thick and great, hwoever i want to do my own paintjob. anyone know if i can get this body seperatly, or whats the hardest body you can get? thanks!

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Are yall talking about this one? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXMA01&P=7 It looks like an engine mount, lower tranny brace, and a chassis brace all in one.

[ 05-12-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[Railman]

GTman, I'm not 100% shure but I think that one was originally designed for the tub chassis, before the flat chassis was released. I think Titan/Raul has been working on a new mount for the flat chassis. The motor/trans deck heights are quite a bit different from the old to the new chassis due to the difference in thickness of the aluminum. I wouldn't recomend the old style trinity brace for the new chassis. It does look like it would be a big improvement for the tub, but for a few bucks more you can buy the complete chassis upgrade kit from Assoc...flat chassis, new blocks, hubs, front tubes, tube mounts, trans, & motor mounts.

[atm92484]

Yes that mount is for the old tub chassises. If you look it has the same bolt pattern on top as what the old braces had for mounting the engine.

[TRXboy]

Just burnt my last pay check today...hehe....race GT is on...

[rc10racing]

iam very happy today :D i got my gt tuned really good it was so much faster but still at a good temp i was flying across the feild and i hit a bump and it did a wheelie for like 20 feet

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Do any of yall have the duratrax ABC piston and sleeve set? Railman told me about it a while back and I just want to know how it's holding up (if any of you have it). It's rebuild time for me, so I'm wondering and open to all choices and suggestions.

TRXBoy, what'd ya buy? In response to one of your posts a few days ago, I put my transponder on the lower remaining parts of my windshield. This way, if I flip, the transponder won't be damaged or dropped upon impact.

My local track is being reconfigured for the Gulf States Race to be held there. We just got a new transponder system, and 5 truckloads of dirt. We are doubling the size of the track, and are putting in a crossover (that's gonna look so sweet).

[TRXboy]

F-R grapite shock towers, O.S .12 CV-TR(The new one, its on order), New tires and rims and a new header

[Gokou]

Mmmmm, .12 CV-TR. That looks like a very nice motor. I'll have to give one a whirl once they come out...

I took some new pics of my GT today with a digital camera I borrowed (boy do I need one of my own)...

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/gt_front_angle_2.jpg

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/gt_top_1.jpg

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/gt_front_1.jpg

The rest of the pics are HERE (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/) if you want to see them.

[ 05-30-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Gokou, are those the RPM a-arms? I really like the Trinity shock bushings and the MIP shiny cvd's. Who made your throttle linkages? It looks like that's a tie rod you used with it.

[TRXboy]

Yeah those are RPM arms- never got around to getting those...hmm...

[Grant Tokumi]

Gokou,
Nice setup.

I noticed you have the older style (more narrow) rear shock tower. Or you shaved one it down. How come? Body clearance?

Interesting receiver battery setup. Charger plug sticking out the back?

I thought you were the one who was searcing for that Mugen receiver box. Ditched it?

[Skateboarder]

Hello, how fast would a gt go with a os hyper cvx.15. I would like to know cause I wanted a car that would go fast so I was going to get a touring car but I dont really like the fact that most touring cars are belt drive and the belts can break and wear out and that touring cars are really picky about the type of surfaces that they can be driven on. So would a gt with the hyper engine satisfy my need for speed and how would it handle on road.
Thanks :)

[Gokou]

Ok, here's answers to the questions.

Yes, they're RPM a-arms. They look neat and are nearly indestructible. However they are much more flexible than the new associated a-arms and as such handling on very rough surfaces becomes unpredictable. They are great for bashing though!

The throttle linkage is the Ofna linkage kit, part number 10724. I just modified the servo horn. No tie-rods were used, the linkage itself is the supplied wire and collars. It is much smoother and has less slop than the stock associated linkage.

The trinity shock bushings were a bit of a pain. I bought the associated ones first, which would NOT work. The actual aluminum part on the associated bushings is about half the thickness of the ones currently on my truck, and as such the shocks rubbed the shock towers. I bought the Losi shock mounts (which are on the truck now and stand the shocks off the shock towers more) and used the pivot balls from the associated shock mount kit. You can also just buy the Losi kit and buy replacement pivot balls for the associated kit, which will save a few bucks. They work well-- as you tighten the nut down, the delrin bushing flares out, removing all slop.

The shock tower is the new FTGT graphite tower. However, I broke the tips (outermost mounting holes) off it after the truck flipped on it's lid after a wheelie and I had the body off :rolleyes: I ended up griding off the broken outer mounts and rounding it instead of replacing it, because the replacement FT graphite tower I bought looked like garbage. There were scratches all over it, plus the holes looked like they were punched through and as such the backside of the tower was chipped around the holes. I expected much better for a $18 shock tower. Until I find a new one that looks nice, I'll leave my modified tower on.

Yeah, I get lots of comments on my receiver battery setup =) The first connector connects to the receiver so I can remove the battery easy, and the other one sticking out the back is just for charging. It was a pain always having to unplug the connector going to the receiver, so I just spliced another connector on and pointed it towards the back for easy charging.

I had the Mugen MBX4 box on for a while, but I ditched it. I don't like how it fits. I also had to have a little extension on my steering servo lead, which I didn't like. I'm still searching for the Mugen Athlete box (C0302) because it is smaller, and the wires exit the box in a better location (against the fuel tank, near the steering servo). If I could find one, I'd put it on, but I've had no luck finding anywhere that carries old Mugen parts.

And before anyone says it: Yes I know boost bottles do next to nothing. I only have it on there for looks, because the GS boost bottle is purdy :D The carb bolt is actually a new one that I made-- it has an extended portion coming out the non-threaded side and I slide the boost bottle's tube over it. It's like the MIP pinch bolt, only solid. It looks like it's connected to the motor, but it's really not-- less chance of air-leaks! I take the boost bottle off when I race to save a little weight, but when I'm bashing or the truck is just sitting on a shelf I leave it on.

[ 05-13-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Gokou I noticed that you have a five cell receiver pack. If you turn it over, with the two cells on the bottom, it makes the zip ties hold much better. It looks like you do this, but if not, glue some sandpaper or something gritty to the cells so they hold onto the foam better.

[Gokou]

The way I have the wireties bundled now, there is no problems with receiver pack slippage. I have two smaller wireties on top, which not only hold my charge plug down but hold the two larger wireties holding the receiver pack down together. Besides, if you flip the pack so 3 cells are up, you raise the CG of the truck slightly (not that a driver like me would notice, but I'm sure some would). Before I had the wireties on top, the receiver pack would always come loose. Now that I have them held together with the smaller ties on top the receiver pack, they hold tight-- I have never had the pack pop out.

Here's a pic of how I wiretied the receiver pack.
http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/recv_pack.jpg

And for Rc10gtman: Here's a pic of the Ofna linkage.
http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/linkage.jpg

And finally, a pic just to prove that I really do drive my GT :D
http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/yesidriveit.jpg

[ 05-30-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[TRXboy]

i wish my chassis had that much blue on it :(

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

gokuo,

what screws are you using and your truck???
they make it look awsome. BTW nice truck

[Gokou]

Unfortunately, they're not Ti-Scruz (I have a hard time justifying $90 for a set of screws). They're stainless screws is all. I bought all the sizes I needed from McMaster-Carr (a large industrial supply house). A box of 100 is about $5, and I think I needed 6 different sizes/styles for my truck. The hardest to find are the 4-40x1" flatheads for the transmission (from the chassis, up though the motor/brake mount into the transmission)-- those I had to get locally at a specialty fastener supply company. For about $30, you can get nice stainless screws for your entire truck and have tons and tons of spares. A much better deal than buying screw packages from AE. I used Ofna blue aluminum cone washers ($6 for a bag of 20) and flatheads wherever I could-- servo mounts, shocktowers, body mounts, etc. They look nice. Wherever I could replace a socket head screw with the flathead/cone washer combo, I did. :D

[Railman]

Hi Gokou, As I said before...Nice truck! I mount my hump pack the same way...two big straps, & one small one to hold the big straps together in between the two top cells. Works perfect with no batt movement. I mounted my charg jack directly to my tower. Just drilled a hole through the jack, where there wasn't a wire of course, & screwed to tower with backup nut...neat clean, & bulletproof. :cool:
I have two questions about your body. How do you start truck with body on it wihtout engine cutout, & how do you keep engine cool enough without winshield cut? :rolleyes:

[illbreakit]

In "shiny side" I meant body up. LOL BTW I came in 2nd place twice today, :eek: :D couldn't stay for the main though :mad: had to go to work :( .
Just in case ya wana know how crazy some peps are, there was a guy at the track w/ a gt and he blew his con rod in practice, so what does he do? goes and buys a 200 motor, runs one tank (ABC cyl&piston) then proceds to lean it out and kick my butt :eek: I wish I had his money, I could burn mine LMAO. Anyways, 2nd place was pretty good for me 'cause it was also the first race I acctually finished :eek: !! I know, sounds pretty lame right? But I never broke anything all day :eek: For me thats exccellent, as my name would suggest!
On a different note, anyone have a problem with there filters plugging quickly? Mine gets really dirty in the first main, doesnt let any dirt into the motor, just wondering if you clean it afer every heat or only when it gets plugged? Oh and my handcrafted aluminum front a arms performed beautifly, have ta make a set fer the rear, on the company's dime of course LOL :rolleyes:

[Gokou]

Hehehehe Railman... good catch. I was wondering when someone would comment about the body. That's my shelf/display body in the pics. It's only on when it's sitting on the desk in my room or for photo-shoots. :D My "driving" body is significantly less pretty-- about 50% of it is held together by shoe-goo, plus the usual scrapes, dents, flaked paint, a really ugly hole for a transponder made by spinning an exacto, and of course, cutouts for ventilation to get to the engine. I'd never try to run with a body that isn't cut out for venting ;)

A great idea popped into my head just now-- what if I were to take the carb pinch bolt and turn two grooves in each end of it, and then installed o-rings in the grooves to seal the pinch bolt to the crankcase? It would sure be simpler than using silicone, and a sure-fire way to eliminate air leaks from the pinch bolt! They would have to be some pretty tiny o-rings though, and if you cut the grooves too deep you might snap the pinch bolt at the groove if you overtighten it. If I can find o-rings that will work, I'll toss my spare pinch bolt in the lathe and give it a try. If it works... I wonder if the interest in such an item would be large enough to justify production? I'm guessing they could be sold for under $9...

Another thought: I wish all tuned pipes sounded as good as a CVEC pipe. Any other pipe (my serpent mega pipe included) sounds puny compared to the deep throaty wail of a CVEC. Compared to my CVEC, with the Mega pipe on my GT sounds sissy! But, I'd rather have my GT sound weenie than clean the CVEC every few tanks. :D

[ 05-14-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[stormperson]

i had a revaltion after i saw my friends axis run. he runs 5 tanks and he has no fuel on the chassis, just some dirt. i run a tank and my whole engine is soaked, and the moutns and thetranny all have a layer of nitro gunk and dirt and other stuff in there.

i found out most of it was due to a loosened header (i used tamiya locktite, which is great stuff, and i am trying locknuts now) anyway is there a carb that doesnt leak? i am currently using the os .12 cvx carb, rotary. i heard the trx carb was better, or should i wait for their new slide carb to come out? thanks

[GTboy]

Stormperson:

The OS carb is a very good carb. Much better than any Traxxas one.

Also make sure that your gasket between the header and exhaust port is in good shape. If it isn't you'll get some blowby and that will be messy and make the engine harder to tune. Some hobbiests like to put locknuts on the end of longer header screws to help alleviate the loosening header problem. This works well if there is room to do it.

:)

[Gokou]

OS carbs are about the best you can get. My OS 10-ER carb leaks a bitfrom the idle screw and rubber boot around the end of the throttle arm (near the low-end needle). After running, the carb and front of the engine is wet and dirt is caked on it. My Novarossi rotary carb doesn't leak a drop, but the OS carb is much more consistent and easier to tune. I suggest you carefully examine your carb and see if any seals/orings/boots need to be replaced. Mine is leaking due to a crack in the boot around the throttle arm, but Great Planes is currently out of stock of the boots.

[n2o]

Hey guys! Whats up??
Remember meeh?? ;)

I got a new 2001 Yamaha Warrior 350cc 4-wheeler about 2 weeks ago. So my GT got a nice clean spot on the shelf.. :rolleyes:

I just stoped in to see is the GT fourm was still alive. And after seeing Gokou's GT.. I think I need to get mine out and start working on it some more! I had the cleanest, fastest GT in town (so said 3 local hobby shops). But Gokou's GT is just cool.. SO time to spend some more money eh?

-n2o

[Gokou]

Awwww, n2o, you didn't get a Banshee? :D The Warrior is a nice quad though. I'm currently cycle shopping myself-- my '98 Honda CBR600F3 got ripped off from the parking lot here at the apartment last friday night. :mad: Of course, it was just after I put a new Yoshimura RS-3 pipe on it, jetted the carbs, put flush blinkers on it, and got new tires. Grrrrrrrrrr... They cut through 3 locks to get it, so I guess they really wanted it. It was insured, but insurance isn't going to cover the pipe, jet kit, and blinkers. Doh! So now I'm looking to get a CBR600F4i in Sliver/Black. :D

Today I finally broke down and ordered (insert trumpet fanfare here) polished progressive shock reservoirs. Yay! Now my GT will be complete, unless I can find a Mugen Athlete receiver box.

My MBX4-XR plans are currently on hold... I want to pick up a set of serpentine pulleys and aluminum/stainless brackets for the engine that I'm building for my real car. Unfortunately the pulley/bracket kit is $800, about twice what I was expecting. So I guess the Mugen will have to wait :(

LOL! I just noticed AE has an opening for a R&D position, with a BSME required. I graduate in a month with my BSME. That would be a FUN job! Too bad I'm already signed on with another company. I sent my resume anyways, I'm curious if they'll respond!

[ 05-14-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[n2o]

Gokou, I didnt want the Banshee because it doesnt have the ground clearance of the Warrior. My warrior has plenty of power and is more what I was looking for. I mean, I could have bought the Rapter... But thats just not the style of riding I'm into.. I am looking to buy a Dirt Bike now, maybe closer to the end of the year. That way I can get a 2002 model. What dirt bikes do you like? So far I am thinking about a Yamaha YZ125, Honda CR125 or Suzuiki RM125. I dont think I can hang onto a 250, because I'm only 5'11/155 my self.

Sorry to hear about your bike man, this stuff is pretty high. So if I were you, and I'm not. I would call the insurance co and have them add coverage for the mods.

I would like a new Honda CBR1100, but I would just go out and kill my self.. So I'll stick to the smaller stuff.. ;)

BTW, what do you do for a living? Sure have a lot of top end toys.. ;) My collecion has just started though.

-n2o

[Snoozy]

**** Gokou! Thats a real nice truck ya got there....anyways. It will be really nice once you have the resoviors on. I am still working on a camera for my car. I can't get my webcam to take pics, so for now, I have nothin.


Stress Release:
I didnt want Microsoft, so ya know what I did? Asked for AMD Athelon, which is what I got, for cheaper price.

Geezz... this is sad. First off I hate to criticize people for their ignorance, but this is pitiful. Just to enlighten.

Microsoft is a software company. They are not in competition with AMD, who is a chip maker. I think you mean Intel (the better :p )not Microsoft. I am willing to bet 100$ that you are using a microsoft product. WINDOWS, INTERNET EXPLORER, WORD, EXCEL, etc. Microsoft has some good products and I would be willing to bet that everyone in this forum uses atleast one daily. Unless you are a Mac user, running netscape, and word perfect; and in that case, I feel sorry for you!

Just a little knowledge from a computer geek :rolleyes:

[ 05-14-2001: Message edited by: Snoozy ]

[Gokou]

Currently I'm a senior majoring in Mechanical Engineering. I graduate in June. The last two years I had some good-paying internships, plus I've been really lucky with the stock market the last few years, which has paid for most of my toys :D After graduation I'm going to be working at an Aerospace company doing design and composite research (honeycomb panels, carbon fiber, plus some really exotic titanium matrix stuff). It doesn't pay as much as I was hoping (does any job?) but it certainly pays enough to support my toys :D Plus I'll get lots of experience working with exotic materials that most people haven't heard of.

I'm currently working on my insurance company on the bike. They don't want to pay for the mods because they claim they need a current appraisal which documents the mods to reimburse me for them. I do have invoices and pictures of them installed, and they seem to be giving in to my incessant badgering.

As for dirt bikes.... I'm not too well versed on them. I am a fan of Honda's quality, which is why I ride (well, rode) a CBR. They're just put together very well. Not that I wouldn't mind a R1/R6 or GSX-R... I will say this: if you doubt you can hang on to a 250, then don't get one. I had a friend killed over the summer because he bought too much bike-- an R6. It was his FIRST bike, and he had ZERO riding experience. He thought he could handle it. I preached and preached that it was in no way a good beginner bike, and he paid the price with his life, only 3 days after he got the bike. If you think it's too fast, and others tell you it's too fast, then don't get it. I think you'll be more than happy on a 125, I know I would! Remember, you can always start slower and buy faster. You can't start fast and then switch to something slower if you kill yourself.

[RC10GTMark]

I ride on and off road. If you were going to get a 125 dirt bike, yamaha prolly has the best bike out for 125's.

250's undoubtingly goto the hondas, they have the BEST 250 on the market.

I ride a 00 r6 right now, just had the carb jetted, I love it =). Sorry about your bike, that ***** to have it stolen.

[Gokou]

Mmmmmm, R6... You lucky guy Mark :p I just love the looks of the R6/R1. If you haven't done a pipe yet, I suggest the one I had on my CBR: a Yoshimura RS-3 (race only). Awesome sound. It's not supposed to be street legal, but who's gonna know? Remember, loud pipes save lives! :D

The same night they took my bike they also took a CBR929RR that belonged to another resident in the complex. They left both of our locks, which the cops printed. They got nothing. The odd thing is, we have a security person that is supposed to come and go through the lot every hour. The night the bikes vanished, he checked in ONCE at 9:30 pm.

I'm still glad they took my bike and not my car. Losing the bike I can live with. That's why I had the bike at school and my car at home safe in the garage. If they took my car, I don't know what I would do. I've had it for 6 years now, and dumped way too much money and more importantly time into it restoring and modding it. I'd be heartbroken if someone took my car. The bike was insured, and I'll get 90% of my money back. The only thing I'm out is a ride, and it's annoying bumming rides from my roommates. Hopefully I'll get a check from the insurance soon so I can get a new bike this weekend. I'm considering getting an SV650S in lieu of an F4i so I have some money left over, possibly for a MBX-4XR :D

Besides, comprehensive insurance on my F3 was $1200 a year, it'll be $1500 a year if I get an F4i, but only $400 a year if I get the SV650S... That's quite a bit of savings which I could spend on something else.

[ 05-14-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[TRXboy]

Hehe- i did a big jump(Or more like plung) today, i was at this beach OK- and i saw a BIG sand cliff- you get the idea :D, as for the new engine- im going to have to settle with the CV-r Not the TR- the TR wont be out untill midway of my racing seson :( but o well- the CV-r should be more then enough power :)

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

Thanks Gokou,

but does towerhobbies carry them and do u have a exact part number?????

[Gokou]

Todd-- no, tower does not carry them unfortunately. I'm back at school now, and the bag of washers is at home, so I can't get you the exact part number. I had a very hard time finding them. GS Racing sells them also, their part number is GSCW110BL I believe. If I find the part numbers for the Ofna washers, I'll let you know. I do know Sheldon's Hobbies (www.sheldonshobbies.com) has them-- that's where I got mine. They aren't on their website though, so you'll have to call. Tell them to look on the bottom of the wall directly behind the engine display case, they're hanging on a peg there. :)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Well, since yall have been talking about motorcycles a bit lately, I'll tell you about my dad and his. Back when he was about 35 or so, my father needed something cheap, so he got a streetbike. Back then, all that was made were big street bikes and little street bikes. He opted for a small one. (105cc engine :D) The bike had a hard time with a big framed man on it. (He was around 250 back then and like pure muscle.) On the army base we lived on, there were many hills. Just before one of the biggest hills waited a pack of dogs. My father was always worried about them becuase with the wind at his back going downhill, the top speed of the little bike was 50mph. Soon the dogs got smart and waited at the top of the hill so they didn't need to chase him down. Knowing that he couldn't outrun the dogs, he packed one of my squirt guns (I was 5 at the time) with ammonia. He'd just shoot them right on the nose and they'd wimper and lay down on the road. I don't think he will ever go back to small methods of transportation since all he has bought since then are SUV's. I know it doesn't have too much to do with motorcycles, but I've always thought that that story was entertaining.

[ 05-14-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[ 05-14-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[illbreakit]

rc10gt, or cbr forum?? gt I hope :D

[Gokou]

Both. ;)

What's a good thread without getting side tracked every once in a while? Don't make me bring my real cars into this!

[ 05-15-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[illbreakit]

OK. I gota '81 cb650 that I have custom painted (15 coat colour scallops and 20 coat clear) took me a month to paint the tank :eek: but it can't hold a candle to your CBR though Gokou :mad: sorry to hear the bad news :( I've had my compition stereo stolen outa my car before, really ***** , 7 grand worth and stupid me, wasn't insured. I guess I had the 'it can"t happen to me' syndrome. So, since you brought it up, what kind of car DO you have? I'm a car nut myself, thats why I love nitro hehehe.

[Gokou]

Ouch on the stereo. I know how the "it can't happen to me" syndrome goes. Always get it insured, because sooner or later it WILL happen to you! Some people just can't respect other people's property. My mom has had her car stolen once (and recovered), my Dad had his truck stolen a few years back (87 El Camino with a 350 TPI/700R4 tranny out of an 88 Corvette in it, never seen again), and now I've had my bike stolen. :mad: Over spring break I was shooting at the local pistol range, and came out to find someone trying to steal a new Camaro SS in the parking lot. Screwdriver in the door lock, and a homemade slimjim down the window. HOW STUPID CAN YOU BE? Trying to steal a car out of the parking lot for a gun range? He was so into his "work" I snuck up behind him and gave him a shock. Let's just say he turned around to see and hear the slide on my .44 Desert Eagle slam closed in his face. He made a mess in his pants :D The cops came and couldn't hold back their laughter at the stupidity of this guy. The owner of the Camaro thanked me profusely for saving his car, and also had a good laugh about the sheer stupidity of the guy trying to steal the car from in front of a gun shop/shooting range.

The paint on your CB650 sounds sweet. Got pics?

Ok, here's what I use to take my GT to the track and to get my rear to and from work...

First up: 1977 El Camino. 5000 lb beast. Almost fully loaded from the factory: HD suspension, PW, PDL, PB, PS, 350 engine (mostly stock, a little more cam), Turbo 350 tranny. The paint is custom, and the pics don't do it justice. It's a very weird blend of Tangerine Orange and Aztec Bronze.
This is the best pic I have of it.
http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/cars/77elky.jpg

Next up: My 69 Chevelle. Bucket seats/console, PW/PS/PB/PDL, rear defogger, Vintage air A/C, custom built 700r4 tranny, 3.42 12 bolt posi rear, full polygraphite bushings, edelbrock progressive rate drop springs, 1.25" sway bar front, 1" rear sway bar, super comp ceramic coated 1.75" primary full length headers, full 2.5" exhaust with h-pipe and 3 chamber flowmasters, etc, etc, etc. I've had it 6 years now-- bought it when I was 16 for my first car and don't plan on ever selling it. Later this summer I'm installing 13" baer track-II disc brakes (with 12" baer touring brakes rear), 17" wheels, and full global west front suspension. Time to make a G-Machine out of it. After all that, it's time to recover and save money for paint. It's got a few little rust spots and the paint is pretty faded in some places.

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com//stuff/cars/chevfront.jpg

I'm currently building a motor for the Chevelle... The motor in it now is getting tired-- valve guides are totally shot and rings are on their way out. The motor I'm building has cryogenically treated 4-bolt main 350 block that's .030 over, decked .015, with 10:1 JE ultralight pistons, Cola 4340 forged crank, manley 6" h-beam rods, CNC ported dart pro-1 heads with 1.550" dual springs and undercut valves, comp cams roller cam and lifters, comp stainless roller rockers, dart stud girdle, dart intake, and a Demon 750cfm double pumper. Also MSD billet distributor, MSD 6AL ignition box, edelbrock victor water pump, 7.25" fluid damper, etc. Should be good for 500+ hp. I must thank Nvidia and their stock for providing me the money I needed for this engine (bought the stock in the 50s earlier this year, sold at 90 last week... woohoo!)

Here's the weekend toy. I own half, my dad owns half. A 1965 Corvette big block roadster. Looks stock outside and under the hood but the motor is pumping out 620hp (14:1 pistons, h-beam rods, lightened/knife edged 4340 crank, ported heads, roller cam, roller rockers, etc. It's SCARY. Only because 215 tires are the widest that will fit without cutting the wheelwells. The car has zero traction for the amount of motor in it. Wheelspin in 4th gear? No problem! It might be sold here in a week or two. I'll miss it if it goes, but I always look forward to picking up a new project car :D

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/cars/vette.jpg

All I can say is learn to invest your money wisely from an early age. My dad has kept me informed about his financial planning and educated me on investment and money management since I was 9. I wouldn't have the toys I have today if it wasn't for his words of wisdom. While all my friends in school were blowing every last cent of their paychecks on CDs and stereos and other stuff, I was playing the stock market. It was very frustrating when they had all this neat stuff to play with and all I had in hand was enough cash to pay for food and gas. It took a lot of willpower not to yank all my money out of the market and go spend it on stuff, but I definately made the right choice.

Now, back to GTs. Has anyone seen the new fuel tanks yet? They use the stock mounting holes but move the filler to the front (near the steering servo) while leaving the pickup at the rear supposedly. I know they are being made (Regan LeBlanc mentioned that they are in production now), but has anyone seen them in stores yet?

[ 05-30-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[n2o]

All I have to say is wow..
Who would have thought that Gokou was such a car nut?? ;)

Gokou, we need to talk sometime.. We are into pretty much the same stuff. I just dont have as much room to park my toys as you do. SO I only have on at a time.

Thats pretty funny about that guy at the shooting range.. Some people.....

I am about to order a 2002 Camaro SS loaded with almost every GM and SLP option you can get. So after I get that bad boy we'll have to go for a ride.

-n2o

[Gokou]

Sweet n2o! I love the new Camaro SSs. Mmmmm, SLP. Then go get yourself a Vortech with aftercooler, or go see Lingenfelter about slapping a pair of turbos on that puppy :D I wouldn't mind having one myself except we're totally out of garage space, and right now expanding is not an option, so I'd have to sell one to get one. Not that I could really afford one now anyways, I'm spread pretty thin between covering my last quarter of tuition and building the motor for my Chevelle. What color are you getting the SS in?

I wouldn't call me a car nut. I'm pretty much a nut about anything that goes fast and makes noise. Cars, bikes, R/Cs, aircraft, trains, etc. If it's mechanical, moves, and makes noise, I probably love it :)

Well, time to ride off to school on my bicycle, since I'm still fighting with the insurance company... I think tomorrow I'll ride my bicycle wearing my full leathers and helmet, that should get a laugh :D

[ 05-15-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[n2o]

Gokou,
I am going to get a black one with T-Tops and black leather int. With the chrome 5 spoke ZR1 rims and the Goodyear G-Force 275/40/ZR17 tires.. ;) ;) ;) ;)

And I am planning to take it to Lingenfelter after it's all broken in. I could put the supercharger on my self.. But Lingenfelter makes some very nice engines!

You have some sweet rides, but I bet you 100 bucks that if you take a NEW SS for a test drive. You'll be ready to sell the EL..

-n2o

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Gokou,
You've got some **** nice cars there. I am building a 63 nova right now. Shes got a 396 and will soon have a 6-71 bolted on. I used to have a 66 GTO, but sold it to get the nova and have spare money. How do you (or did..you :mad: ) like the CBR? i want to get one pretty bad, but i have never ridden a street bike, dont want to kill myself, and am 6'7 285lbs. Just wanted to give you compliments on your cars, nice GT as well, i used to race a FTGT before i got my losi, and while i think they are both killer trucks, the losi just suited my style a little better , just all depends on whose "behind the wheel"...
Once again, nice cars man! :D :D

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I just sold a RTR GT rolling chassis for $70 so it looks like Marky is going shopping. :D Other than a new piston/sleeve, what do yall think I should get? Any nice bank for your buck secret products that yall know of?

Gokou, I want that El Camino bad bad bad.

[TRXboy]

SNAP!!!!

http://members.tripod.com/pitmonkey911/1513faf0.jpg

[rc10racing]

my gt is doing to many wheelies! it keeps flipping i did nothing but tune the carborater it didnt do them before i tuned it i like the way it runs but i hate how it crashes on everything what should i do :confused: if it matters i run silver fronts with 20wt and green rears with 35wt

[Gokou]

First, thanks for the compliments on my cars. They're pretty much all I work on outside of school or work-- I always try to keep them as clean as my GT :D

n2o: I've driven a new Camaro SS (and a new C5, and a new C5 Z06... all very fun cars, but the SS is awesome bang for the buck) and as much as I want one, until the garage is expanded (not for a while) I can't bring myself to sell the Elky to make room for a new car, for sentimental reasons. The Elky was my dad's truck-- he bought it when it was new in 1977 and had it up until I was 8 years old. He sold it when I was 8, in 1987, because he got a company car and didn't need it anymore. Early last year I tracked it down (it had gone through 4 owners since 1987) and bought it for myself-- rebuilt the motor, suspension, tranny, redid the interior and had it repainted in the color he had it repainted (new in 77 it was root beer brown, but my dad had it repainted in that shade of orange a week after he bought it). So I'd kind of like to hang on to it. I had kept it secret from my dad until I finished all the work on it. The look on his face when I brought it home was priceless, I thought he was going to cry :)

I have a weird idea in my head for a daily driver... I have a 3.8 V6 turbo w/computer and tranny with only 25,000 miles from a wrecked Buick Grand National sitting in my garage. I picked it up a few years back at an auction, someone rolled the car. I bought the wreck, and after firing it up to make sure it worked, I yanked the motor/tranny/computer and sold the body, which was beyond repair. My dad's boss is currently selling a rather nice 87 El Camino with no motor/tranny. Put them together and I would have quite a sleeper :D The engine bays are identical (cars were built on almost the same platform, the Elky frame was stretched a bit) so it's easy to drop in, then it's just wiring. I can get the Elky for probably $2500, and it's nice: Black over Silver 2 tone with the SS front air dam, 5-spoke Camaro wheels (need to be polished and painted), light grey interior with pillow seats and gauges, power windows, power door locks, power steering, power brakes, A/C. I figure I could make a fast little truck for cheap :)

LosiXXXNT'er: I really liked my CBR. Honda just builds quality stuff-- I feel they're the best built of any of the Japanese bikes on the market today. Rode nice, with a smooth powerband. Never took it to the track, but I would guess low 12's out of it, plenty fast to be entertaining. I'll be honest and say that it was too much for my first street bike (I've ridden dirt bikes in the past) but I got lucky and only dropped it once, just tore up a fairing. At 6'7" 285lb though, I think you'd be a little cramped on one. You'd have to go to a dealer and sit on one to make sure. I'd strongly suggest you look at a Suzuki SV650 or SV650S-- great bikes for about $5000 new. Very smooth powerband, and the way the suspension is set not only to they handle well they are very forgiving for beginners. A friend of mine just picked one up and they're a steal for 5 grand-- awesome bikes. If you want to make them look more like a sportbike, there is a company making aftermarket fairings for it which look VERY nice. The other nice thing about the SV650 is that it's pretty much a naked bike, so no expensive fairings to replace if you drop it, and you can also put on frame sliders without cutting a fairing.

LOL TRXboy, your pic finally loaded... Was that from flipping or a REALLY HARD landing? I'm amazed the tower didn't break at the upper shock mount!

[ 05-15-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[TRXboy]

Ok i have to get a pic of this jump, the lip it self tops out at 4 1/2 feet (Est) and is almost imposible to hit with my GT(Very bumpy- normlay only do it with the T-maxx but come on, this is me we are talking about :D)After many falied atempts and bails i went to the top of the parking lot(Yes a parking lot going down hill is the start off point) and going WOT and hitting the ramp perfectly(I literly floated over the bumps before the lip) i see the bottem of the chassis, and nothing more, then looking over my head and turning around to see where it would land i hear a big thump and my car idoling behind me. After the normal confusion on how it happened and many "What the Heck's(Edited)" i was lost on how it landed behind me- considering i went farther off the jump on slower attemps, but then, i saw it, the tree branch caught in the fly wheel opening and wind sheild hole, i look up and what do i see dangaling a good 15 feet above the ground...a friggin tree branch....grrrrrr.

[TRXboy]

O yeah i forgot to tell you guys, check out my site :)

My web site. (http://members.tripod.com/pitmonkey911/index.htm)

[Gokou]

Ahahahahahha... darn trees! I wish I lived in New York TRX, I'd go out just to watch you jump! Then try myself! :D

[Jace2000]

Goku

What steering linkage is that in your GT?
Are they MIP's?
Thanx in advance..

[Gokou]

Yep Jace, I'm using the MIP 0-maintenance steering kit in combination with a large kimbrough high tension servo saver. The MIP kit wasn't made for the flat chassis, but it works. Put two 4-40 washers under the aluminum posts included with the MIP kit to raise the bellcranks a hair, and it works great. I like it much better than stock. Easier to turn because of the beings and less slop. They're also stiffer than stock. The main reason that I bought it was because the stock AE built-in servo saver would always work loose on me after about a half hour of driving. With the MIP bellcranks and Kimbrough saver, that isn't a problem.

[ 05-16-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[n2o]

So Gokou, you think the Camaro SS is only cool because of 'bang for the buck'?? Just asking because thats what a lot of people like to say about the camaro. I just like the car in general. Not only will it wax just about every other car you will find on the road. But with some intake and exhaust work, it will run down a stock C5 vette. GM under-rates and chokes back the LS1 engine because they want the vette to always be on top. The 2000 2001 LS1 engines recieved the LS6 intake from the C5 vette. And with that intake and a nice open exhaust, the SS was faster than the C5's.. SO they make the Z06.. ;)

I mean, I would love to have a Z06.. But I like having a back seat (what little of it there is). But at least I can stick my GT back there or some friends eh?

Anyhoot, I like old cars as well, I am going to get a 67-69 Camaro SS 350 and a 70's vette some day. And my best friend is getting a 70 chevelle SS 454.. ;)

I just like the way new cars handle and perform. There is no way any of those old muscle cars of the 60's and 70's could hang with a new 2000's sports car on a road race. (stock to stock of course)

Anyway, gota get back to work..

-n2o

[n2o]

Gokou, I like the fire birds as well. But I think they went a little to far with some of the body panels. And I just like the lines of the SS better. I'm pretty sure the SS can pull close to if not over 1.0g on the pad. And I know that they can pull very low 13's bone stock. My plan is to get sub frame connecters and Eibach springs. That will give it a lower look without really lowering it much at all. Then I'll put the 11" rims on the back with some 315's. After all of that comes either the Vortech G-Trim or I'll send it to Lingenfelter. It's either the SS for 35-36k (all opts), or a Z06 for 48k.. But I think I just like the SS better.. We'll see..

-n2o

[Bodido]

Since you guys keep talking about the SS so much, I'll put in my 2 cents. My brother owns a '99. Crazy fast car! Lots of fun to drive. It makes an excellent 2nd car. If it is intended to be a primary mode of transportation, I'd strongly reccomend staying away. If you like to do all your own maintainence, I'd again say stay away. They're no fun to work on at all. Changing the #7 and #8 sparkplugs looks impossible, for example. They're under the dash, pretty much. My brother's SS is currently at the dealer, AGAIN. They're have been a number of small issues... loose trim panels, electrical problems, etc... And One major issue. They've had it for 8 weeks now. They're trying to make it stop leaking oil. They're on the third rear main seal, second crank, second clutch, and second oil pump. It's kind of strange... It doesn't leak until they bolt up the tranny. That's what led them to try a new crank ( thinking there was excessive end-play ). Right now we're hoping GM will just ok the dealer to drop in a new motor, but GM is making them jump through all the hoops first. This thing only has 19,000 miles. Don't get me wrong it's an awesome car, just not one you can count on every day. So he's paying over $400 a month to drive a gold Cavalier :rolleyes: That poor loaner car :o My brother is quite happy I bought my Integra GSR, however. It never gives me any trouble when I drop him off or pick him up at the Chevy dealer. I know this doesn't represent the average LS1 owner, but is more of a worst case scenario. We have a couple friends with LS1 powered cars (a TA and an SS) and they've had much better luck than my brother.
Just some things to think about.

[n2o]

Well I dont plan for it to be my daily driver. Not only do I not want to rack up the miles and risk getting rock chips and all of the other crap that happens to cars. But it drinks way to much gas to drive to work (70 miles a day). In the daily driver line up, we have a silver 2000 Honda Civic with an AEM CAI and a B&M shifter... ;)

I must say though, I think that your bro just got a dud. Because if you read the fourm at slpeng.com. You will find that every 400 or so camaros gets a bad engine. And that really ***** .. But thats just chevy for you. Ford is no better with the ford exploder that kills anyone that drives it. American cars just arent as well made as say a honda.. (acura).

-n2o

[Bodido]

If you a have civic to drive, I'd say go for it. I'd be shocked to see someone have the same luck as my bro. What's your opinion of that B&M shifter. Most people seem to regret buying short shifters for Hondas, but they're usually cheap ones. I'm currently trying to decide weather or not I want to install The ZEX nitrous and NOS purge valve in my 'Teg. That big purple bottle keeps calling out to me every time I glance at it in the garage :D

[ 05-16-2001: Message edited by: Bodido ]

[n2o]

I would NOT install that on my car.. Only because it will not help THAT much, but it will hurt your engine alot. I mean, if you just shoot it every now and then. It would be fine I guess, but your going to be into that bottle every time you leave the house, (trust me, I know).

I like the B&M short shifter in my civic, because with the old one I was grinding alot because I want to be in gear faster than the stick could get in gear. But now other than just knowing you cant yank it as hard as the stock shifter, it works great.

-n2o

[IFLYBYU]

Hey all,

I just got an rc10gt rtr on trade. It has bearings, titanium top shaft and turnbuckles, and a new OS cv .12. The only problem is that I didn't get a manual with it. Is there anywhere online that I can download a manual or could anyone fax one to me.
Thanks in advance.

Mike

[Gokou]

I'm not a big nitrous fan at all. I've seen the results of nitrous puddling in a 'Stang 5.0 intake manifold-- turned it into a bomb. Also, this right here should turn you off of nitrous: http://www.enhancedhealth.com/nitrousexpress.htm

It's the results of a 15lb bottle of nitrous blowing up. NOT pretty. It was a malfunction of the blow-off valve on the nitrous tank, but still, why have that much potential explosive power in your car? Save your money for a turbo or supercharger.

IFLYBYU: Team Associated has all their manuals available on their website for download. You can also request a free copy of them, mailed to you. I can't get to their website right now (my DSL is messed up) but there is a link on the front page to the manuals section.

[ 05-16-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[rc10racing]

my brother has a ford saleen mustang that was dyno tested and it has 500hp! it took me for a ride in it as soon as it hits 3000 rpms the super chager kicks in the car just explodes :eek: :eek:

[TRXboy]

I wish I lived in New York TRX, I'd go out just to watch you jump! Then try myself!

Thanks man!! I like when i get credit for my all out ballsy jumps :)

[doublet]

26 pages?!?!?!?!!?!?!? this is just wrong..... j/k :p

[Gokou]

I do like the Camaro-- it looks nice (although I still like the older quad-headlight nose a little better), handles good, and is pretty quick, especially for stock. It just also happens to have great bang for the buck, too, but that's not the only reason I like it :D There's also a lot of aftermarket goodies.... yay! I don't know though if I'd rather get the Camaro SS or a new Trans Am... I just like something about the over-the-top styling on the T/A's. What I really want though is the anniversary T/A my boss bought last year (and never drives): WS6 package, lots of SLP stuff, white with blue stripes, really sweet blue wheels, a a weird interior: white seats with black carpet/doorpanels/etc. It's pretty spendy though (I think most of them are going for about $42,000 ro so).

My only beef with the Camaro and T/A is that half the darn engine is hiding under the cowl. Makes working on them a bit annoying.

Once I get the brakes/suspension done on my Chevelle I should be able to scare a lot of people... right now with the suspension work I have done it handles very well for a 30 year old, 3700lb car (about .87-.89 g's on the skidpad). With the Global West suspension, I've seen a 66 Chevelle with 16" wheels and 235 tires pull 1.05g's. (Stock Chevelle suspension is absolutely horrible in terms of roll centers and camber curves, it was designed to be safe, i.e. understeer). I'll have larger/wider wheels than that, so it should be even better. 13" front/12" rear discs should stop me VERY fast, the only thing I wish I could retrofit was ABS... Still, by the time I'm done, with the money I've tossed into my Chevelle I could have bought a fully optioned new Camaro and then had money left over for a Vortech and aftercooler, and then some. But, I love the car, so I don't mind :D

I'm currently trying to track down my dad's old 1969 Vette. I *loved* that car as a kid. He sold that when I was 5. I'm up to the 2nd owner since it was sold, I hope it still in the state and in good shape...

[ 05-16-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[Gokou]

26 pages is wrong? Nah, it is so, so right :D

I ended up getting black progressive reservoirs instead of polished ones for my GT... I couldn't chase down polished ones anywhere, and I didn't want to order straight from Progressive Suspension because I needed a few little carb parts and wanted to get them all at the same time. National R/C had a set of black ones, so I got 'em, plus a few parts for my OS 10-ER carb. I think they'll look pretty darn nice. If not, I can always polish them :D

[n2o]

rc10racing, 500HP is pretty good for a ford.. How much did it cost to get that kind of power out of it??? ;)

I plan to build my SS up to around 600HP when I get it.. Not many things (even vipers), will be able to hang with it..


GT stuff

This stinks, I was driving my GT the other night. And I blew the inner clutch bearing. So I had one left over from when I blew the outer bearing and stuck that one in. Then I take it for a spin around my little make-shift track wide open. Right about the time I get on it hard to come around a turn, the pin in my MIP CVD slips out and the engine goes way WAY past red line. Not only did it almost cut my A arm in half, but it busted the half shaft on the CVD. Cracked it right open like it was nothing. Can we all say "WAY OVER POWERED ENGINES"??

So my GT is in a million peices on my work table getting a re-build.. Maybe I can get it track ready by the weekend.

I know it's nice to be able to take these CVDs apart for cleaning and stuff. But I am thinking about just putting a gob of the hardest lock tight I can find on that bad boy. Because CVDs cost alot to replace.

-n2o

[IFLYBYU]

Gokuo, Is the web site www.rc10.com. (http://www.rc10.com.) I checked there and they have none for download. Only have them for sale, and being from Canada they won't take credit card from me.
Is there anywhere else online to get manuals???

Thanks
Mike

[morfeeis]

e-mail them and tell them the deal ae is a cool company they will most likely mail one out to you

[Railman]

N2o, I've been preaching red locktite on CVD's for over 4 years now. I have totally worn out a set of shiney CVD's on my old GT using red locktite & has never come apart. Blue works well enough for electric cars but not for gassers.
If you need to take them apart you have to heat them up to get the screw out though. Usually a soldering iron works well enough but sometimes it might take a flame. For some unknown reason Locktite has seen fit to flip flop the colors of their tubes recently. They NOW put the red (high strength) in a blue tube & the blue (medium) in the red tube...go figure!

I also like to use red locktite between the engine mount & the chassis, & between the engine & the mount. Use blue on the screws, it will hold on these big screws, & still allow them to be removed when needed. This may seem like overkill, but it's whats needed to reduce chassis flex. Thats one of the things that kills bearings & gears. It uses the engine block as a top brace to the engine mount. Try it it works & can't hurt. It's just not necesary to change ratios with these new hi hp motors, so why not lock them in?
Any ideas what happened to the clutch nut a while back, when it split? Later.

[n2o]

Railman, thanks for the chewing.. ;)
Will do on the red lock tight. A friend of mine that also bought a FT GT just a little before I got mine. He put his together with NO lock tight at all. Needless to say, the pin flew out after only 2 or 3 tanks and cut the A arm. However, his pin fly-out didnt bust the half shaft. I was looking on MIP's site for warranty info on these CVD's. But I cant find anything, so I guess I just get to buy this lesson. I cleaned the CVD's and used the blue stuff that came with them, so it' there fault... Not mine.. ;) ;)

One thing I am wondering about though is my diff, it had to bend something to put enough force on that half shaft to bust the hardened steel. Guess I'll check that out before I go to the hobby shop.

Hey railman, or anyone with an MT12 running good. I know that settings will be somewhat differnt from location to location. But does anyone know what they have the black and brass set screws at and maybe even the top end? Because I just cant get mine like I want it, when I think it's running rich enough and it pufs a good cloud of white smoke when you get on it. When I let it idle for over 10 - 12 seconds it will just stall.. ;(

And even at that setting the MIP says it's running at 235 with the body off..

thanks

-n2o

[ 05-17-2001: Message edited by: n2o ]

[Snoozy]

Ahh, CVDs. The best fix is to continue using blue locktite so you can get the screws off, and to go to the hardware store and buy some heat shrink. Then put it all over your car. I need to get some picture up. But I have it covering all my servo leads, battery leads, and the ends of CVDs to hold roll pins in. I have it on top of my antenna. Its great. FYI: I am using marine grade (glue inside so it sticks to itself, and makes a water tight seal) electrical stuff, and I love it. Like $5 for enough to last me a year.

[Snoozy]

Also, on the engine. GTboy, you have the first part backwards.

Always tune your high speed first, then go for the low speed. The low needle is dependent on the high one, which controls all fuel into the engine. The low, just restricts how much gets in at low speeds.

[rc10racing]

n2o he has so much money into it :D every time he comes to work on it he has something new to put in

[n2o]

Well, after I get my GT all put back together and lock tight the heck out of it. I'm going to the track to get it all dirty again. Anyone want to come along?? ;)

when my friends digital camera comes in, maybe I can make a little movie of my truck and show you. The pics I posted a while back were very bad pics. So maybe I can make it look a little better with a good camera.

I'll give everyones tips a try and let you know how it went tomorrow..

-n2o

[TRXboy]

N20 - try some heat shrink on the cup part of the CVD bone over the pin- it should never pop out then.

[Gokou]

I must be REAL lucky with my CVDs. I don't locktite the setscrew or use heatshrink, and in the 10 years I've been using them I have never once had one fly apart on me. I use a good ground drill blank wrench and tighten them pretty darn tight though. Then again, I've probably just been really, really lucky for 10 years. I should probably start using the heatshrink trick and loctite... having a pin work loose and shred an arm would not make me happy ;) Heck, I've got over a gallon through the CVDs I have in now and have yet to retighten them, even without locktite or heatshrink. I think I'm pushing my luck :D

Railman, your idea of using loctite to bond the motormount to the chassis is a very interesting notion-- I can see that really cutting down on chassis flex! When I finally stop messing with gear ratios and decide on the one I really like, I'll give that a try.

IFLYBYU: I think I must have been hallucinating, but I swore I saw someplace on their site where you could download and request old manuals. Guess I was wrong, sorry. Hopefully someone here can scan/fax/mail you a copy. If my manual was here at school with me, I'd scan it for you, but unfortunately it's 2 hours away at home. If you still don't have a copy by next weekend let me know and I'll scan mine for you or copy it and mail it to you.

[Bodido]

I use the heat shrink method as well. Many gallons run since without incident.

Gokou: I've seen that link to the blown-up maxima before. The guy who installed it disabled the safety device for the bottle warmer/blanket. The warmer was left on overnight..... KABLUEY! At least this is what I heard. Nitrous can be pretty reliable if set-up properly and used with common sense. Still, there's more risk than stock. Tough call if it's worth it or not. I'd just use it at the strip, since I recently got busted street racing. :mad: Oh well. You play , you pay.

[Gokou]

The nitrous thing was partially the owner/installers fault: He didn't wire up the bottle heater to a ignition-switched power source, so it would stay on even if the car was off. Still, I place most of the blame on the manufacturer of the blow-off valve. Installation goof or not, the blow-off valve is a KEY safety item, and it obviously failed. Look at the pics-- it's still intact! What good is it if it doesn't work? That valve is there strictly to prevent catastrophic explosion of the bottle due to an overpressure condidtion. Still, the guy was very lucky the bottle didn't blow when he was in the garage or in the car-- he would have been dead for sure. Malfunction or not, I don't want nitrous in my car. :eek: I've ridden in a few cars with nitrous, and it's quite entertaining to say the least, but personally, I won't use it in my car. My cars are all throttle, no bottle :D

[morfeeis]

I'm not a big nitrous fan at all. I've seen the results of nitrous puddling in a 'Stang 5.0 intake manifold-- turned it into a bomb. Also, this right here should turn you off of nitrous: http://www.enhancedhealth.com/nitrousexpress.htm


maybe my comp is just a retard but i cant see any of the pic can some one post them

[Gokou]

Morfeeis, I'll copy the best couple pics and put 'em on my website so you can see them, hopefully they'll load. Try looking HERE (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/nitrous/), I uploaded the best pics there. It basically blew off the trunk and peeled the rest of the rear of the car open like a bananna. The Nitrous didn't ignite either, that was just the force of the gas expanding after the bottle exploded. High pressure gas + sealed bottle + heat = bomb. The blowoff valve was supposed to pop at 3000psi, well below the burst strength of the bottle. That much pressure escaping instantaneously (such as when a bottle explodes) is very, very bad. :eek:


Anyone pick up the redesigned GT fuel tank yet? It moves the filler to the front (near the steering servo) while leaving the picup at the back, and it uses the same mounting holes in the chassis...

[stormperson]

whats the part #? and i didnt know it was out yet. however for some odd reason and i dont remeber when, the lip of my fuel tank (the part that sticks out so you have something to pull up when you open it) broke off, i cut a hole in the support on the top, and it works okay, however, nothing great.

having it over there should be nice.

does it still open up into the same direction though?

[TRXboy]

Im still looking for it goku, cant find it.

[Gokou]

From what I hear yes, the flip lid is still oriented in the same direction (hinge towards front of truck). I don't know if it has a new part number or not, but I do know that they are in production and have been shipped. I have yet to see one though. Personally though I like the filler back by the engine-- I'd much rather spill fuel on my engine when I miss with the fuel bottle than spill my receiver and steering servo.

[TRXboy]

I here you on that, i wish they would remount the pressure hole, and i dont knwo about you guy but i had no probs refuiling the tank with the body on.

[GTboy]

n2o:

I use 1/2" shrink wrap over the ends and pins on my CVD's. Never have lost a pin in 5 years. I also use just graphite powder lube on them. This repells dust and dirt but lubricates very well.

As to your MT12 you are probably close in your tuning but just a tad off. REMEMBER that the low speed needle controls your engine temperature. If its to lean no matter what you do on the high speed needle you will not be able to transfer the heat from the crankcase to the head and you will always be running hot! Get up to operating temp and then make sure the top end will clear under power. After that is accomplished then tune your low speed to your temp range you want (210-220) then slightly lean up your top end as needed to make full power. Then set your idle speed as needed. As for idling 10-12 seconds that is actually just about right. That will keep your temp solid for a long race and stop flameouts. Most times you see flameouts it is 95% because the low speed needle is to lean. After you find your range you could try maybe 1 click leaner on the low speed to help your idle. Remember though that being able to idle a long time will probably cause flameouts. I do recommend the MIP 4n1 clutch set at #2 position, as this hopup will help your idle some. Besides, you won't win to many races idling!

:)

[illbreakit]

Darn it, :mad: I just went and buoght an 'old' fuel tank. Never new they were coming out w/a reversed one. Bout time.
27 pages-cool :D Lets see if we can get this past 30 by monday. Deal?

[illbreakit]

What! It's been allmost 4 1/2 hours, where is everyone? Did they all fall asleep on me :rolleyes:

[GTboy]

snoozy:

Not to create a fuss but please reread my post. I stated to adjust the high speed needle first when at operating temperatue so that the engine and pipe would clearout before touching the low speed needle.

:)

[n2o]

illbreakit, I'm still here.. Just geting some work done.. We need a chat room or something.. ;)

-n2o

[morfeeis]

one more day till i can run my gt for the first time any tips on what i need to check on like screw

should i go threw and lock tight everything
i got it off e-bay so it will come together so i dont have to worry about that anyway cant wait to drive it :D :D :D :D :D :cool:

[TRXboy]

dont lock tite every thing, just anything that involves the engine and it mounts.or anything threaded into metal.

[IFLYBYU]

Hey all,

I just had my first drive with my GT today, man that thing handles well. It has great accelleration and jumps nice. I really like this truck.

I hope it runs good for a long time for me.

Great Thread
Mike :D :D :D :D :D

[morfeeis]

yam yam yam (y=d) i hate this weak lil starter box i got now i have to wait to Saturday to go to my bros to get my ofna box this box can blearily handle turning over with no plug in it then after i get it to crank a few time the whole box starts to smoke o well no gt for me today

by the waythe starter box is a dynamite forgot the name of it but it is real small and they say it can start a 1/8 yea right

:( :( :(

[ 05-18-2001: Message edited by: morfeeis ]

[TRXboy]

How is the dynamite starter box anyhow? I saw it for 50 i might pick one up, can it take 12V bat's?

[morfeeis]

i would not pay for it and even now i want my momney back i fell jiped and i got it as part of a deal off e-bay

spend alil more and get the ofna box it blows this one away

[Bodido]

I have this one Dynamite Ultra-Start (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Description.asp?prod=DYN5700&ThisPage=&Category=P&item=&refer=)
I got it from my lhs for much much less, btw!

I've been real happy with it. It is identical to one Serpent markets. I use 12v gel cell batteries. They're low hassle, they last and last, and I get em free (used in the 1200+ PC ups's On the network I service).
If my lhs would have had a starter box with the LARGE single motor, like the OFNA, I'd have likely bought one of those. They look like they'd last forever.

If you're having serious problems starting your engine, you can make about any box smoke. I toasted my first starter box because I had engine problems and wasn't giving my starter enough breaks to cool down. That starter box only had one 540 motor though.

[ 05-19-2001: Message edited by: Bodido ]

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

thats y i have a pullstart on my gt the engine is a cv-rx with 1bhp i would recommend that engine to any body who wants acceleration and top speed.

[raptor660]

I took a 75 and adjusted it to fit in my GT

@ucker flies!!

[Turboduck01]

Okay guys, I have a problem. I need help with knowing when the diff is properly adjusted, I'll think it's too loose, and then the next day, the diff is totally melted. So, is there a way to check it without having to adjust the screw? and how tight should it be? thanks

[Gokou]

The only proper way to set the diff and make sure it is tight enough is to do this: tighten the diff bolt until you feel the spring bottom out (you will feel it get noticably tighter), then back it out 1/8 of a turn, NO MORE! Also, make sure you have the diff installed correctly-- the head of the diff bolt should face the right hand side of the truck-- the side of the truck opposite the pipe, where the throttle servo/receiver is mounted. If you mount the diff backwards (head of bolt facing tuned pipe side) the diff will loosen itself during normal driving, and you'll toast it. If you keep having problems with the diff loosening, pick up a new diff bolt and nut-- yours might be worn. You might also want to try one drop of blue loctite inside the diff t-nut (sits in t