Associated RC10GT Forum v1.0

[Jace2000]

TRXboy

I think that the stocker should hold up fine for your OS.
I'm currently using metal gears from Robinson's and they haven't given one single trouble even when I run them with my RB X12.

Skateboarder
Welcome to the board :D
Although the GT can handle pits and jumps it was made more for racing in offroad tracks. I think maybe something like the Tmaxx will better suite your taste.
Hope ya have lots of fun no matter what truck you decide to get.

[atm92484]

TRX, I'm running a stock tranny and its holding up nicely. I have almost 2 gallons through it with a 12 CV-R and it was used for probably 5 gallons with a 12 CV before that.

Skateboarder, the GT is a really durable truck. Some will argue this including the XXXNT guys. I've had a GT for 2 years and it has yet to let me down and all I do is bash. My LHS is getting a track this spring so I might be starting some racing. Thats what I like about the truck-its versatile. The only thing is the 2wd might not be as good in the sand but a set of Sandpaws should fix that.

Good luck

[TRXboy]

Jace- i was using all RRP gears, but i decided to give the stockers a try again cause im gunna be racing, as for durability, trust me, its durable, you can ask any one that knows me that i rip on my truck :p

[n2o]

Okay guys, the time has come for me to get a new radio for my GT. After going to the track a few times and just trying to get my truck to hook up (plus railman's tips). I have decided that I should get a radio that can handle this much truck. Anyway, what radio do all of you guys run? Right now I have a JR XR3 radio, it works pretty good; but I need more. I'm pretty sure it will be the Airtronics M8 or the JR R1. The R1 looks like it has a few more functions, and some of the fast guys are starting to use it. But the M8 is also a great radio that a lot of people use and have used for a long time. I am going to list my XR3 on ebay tomorrow, so I need some tips sort of fast. thanks

-n2o

[TRXboy]

Im a fan of futaba, i like the look feel and quality, i used to run the PCM, until it got stollen, so right now im running my old Mag jr.

[GTboy]

Mark:

The step pin is probably the best tire for dry or wet conditions to what you described. Throttle control is the key to traction. If the dirt is dry and only has a bit of fluff or lightly covered and hard packed underneath then you could try a bit smaller pin which will allow your truck to slide more. This could be a faster setup if you can adapt your driving style to it. I just finished a race on the weekend where step pins were used and it got pretty slippery so all everyone could do is tame that throttle finger (sometimes not the easiest thing to do). Good luck!

:)

[FXMAN]

thanks goku...i do have the older tub chassis. i may just get the trinity motor brace, or replace the chassis. decisions, decisions....lol. funny thing, i figured out how to adjust the motor for gear mesh, today. the old tub chassis used slots in the chassis (from under the chassis) on the front of the motor mount bracket, and you must loossen the rear motor mounts (from the top) were the motor mounts to the rear mount bracket. other than chassis flex, is there much advantage to upgrading the chassis, or is there an aftermarket chassis that is better? and why is it better. thanks, shane.

[Gokou]

FXman: The new flat chassis is stiffer than the tub, which is a great reason to upgrade because you'll stop stripping gears, plus the stiffness will make handling more predictable. Also, the wheelbase has changed from the tub chassis, and the flat chassis handles MUCH better than the tub chassis. Plus you'll get beefier rear a-arm mounts and an adjustable wheelbase, for more tuning options. It's probably the best chassis for the GT, and I'm sure others will agree with me. I wouldn't get the trinity tranny brace, because it will not work on the flat chassis. You'd have to get rid of it when you upgrade to the flat chassis. The AE upgrade kit is really the best solution, both for performance and cost effectiveness. You won't regret it.

n2o, about the radio: I suggest you try an R-1 first before you buy. They are bulky. Neat (well, VERY neat, I love neat toys), but bulky. I was going to get one until I held one. If you drive your GT for longer periods of time it will probably become tiring. A guy at the track sold his earlier this year simply because his hands got tired holding the darn thing during 30 minute mains. I use an M8 and really like it-- it probably has the best menu and simplest adjustments out there. It's very intuitive, unlike the Futabas. You can easily make an adjustment on the M8 on the fly without digging out the manual like you have to do with the Futabas. The Futabas are great radios (plus you can get PCM) but they are a pain in the butt to program. I wish I had the channel security of PCM, but I haven't had one glitch with my M8. Don't forget KO-- I have a few buddies with EX-1 Mars radios and they absolutely love them. Not quite as easy to program as my M8 but very good nonetheless. I think Railman runs KO radios, hopefully he'll chip in his thoughts.

And for the tranny discussions: I run all stock gears. The only thing aftermarket in my tranny is MIP lite drives, because they wear longer than the stock AE outdrives. I have not had one problem with my tranny even with my X12 and modded MT-12. Then again I don't jump my GT into trees like TRXboy :p
I still wish you had a video of that!

[Jace2000]

FXMan

I believe the new chassis is lighter than the older tub chassis. You'll also find that it's much easier to clean than the older one because it traps less dirt.

As for aftermarket chassis for the GT...
Holeshot makes an aluminum chassis for the GT and they claim that theirs are stronger than the stock. You can find Holeshot's GT chassis at Tower Hobbies for $41.99. Holeshot's homepage is at http://holeshotrp.tripod.com/radiocontrolholeshotracingproducts
I'm not sure if they're worth it though and I've haven't heard any info on these either.
Another one that I read about somewhere was the carbon chassis. I can't really recommend this either because carbon absorbs less heat and it could cause your engine temp to rise depending on what weather condition you drive in. Also, carbon is stronger than aluminum but has less flex memory. Aluminum will try to spring back to its original position as long as it doesn't get bent beyond its limit. Carbon is stronger but will snap if bent hard enough.

I think you should stick to the stock chassis :)

[ 05-23-2001: Message edited by: Jace2000 ]

[stormperson]

i actually got the trinity motor brace and am currently using it on the rtr chassis.

[Bodido GT]

You guys are making this a little confusing.

The Trinity tranny brace works with both the flat chassis and the tub.

The Trinity motor mount works only with the tub.

Gokou: Let's see some pics with those new shock caps!

[n2o]

Gokou,
I will go to the hobby shop tonight and try out the radios. I was playing with the R1 when I first got my GT. It was a little on the heavy side, but you can deal with it for one or 2 races. I can see how the 30min - 1 hour racec could get old. The M8 is a great radio, I just wanted that PCM that the R1 has. Because with PCM cant you change the chanel your runing on at any time?

Also, what would be a good high speed high torque servo to get?

-n2o

[GTboy]

n2o:

I use the KO Mars radio. Been using it for almost 3 yrs and not 1 problem with it. Its great on batteries (2 1/2 hrs on rechargables). The only drawback for some people is the feel. If you have large hands it might feel tight. It is extremely light and balanced and has every option needed except failsafe. Failsafe will not save you in some circumstances so a throttle return spring should always be used. Once you learn how to program it ( instructions are written in Jinglish) it is great. It has a great mini reciever as well and the price is right.

I tried my friends R1 and did not like the feel as it seemed heavy and unbalanced.

I also tried the M8 and didn't like the feel and the radio ***** batteries dry way to fast for my liking.

My son has a brand new Hitec Lynx Spectra and it feels nice and for the $$'s its a great buy also as it comes with everything ( charger, extra crystals, rechargable pack etc). If you have a chance to try it do so as I'm impressed with it.

As for servos I used to buy Airtronics only but I had a bad experience with service and warranty so that stopped that. I am using the new Hitec 5925MG digital servo. Its awesome, 125oz. torque and .08 speed. Its all you'll ever need and there warranty and service is the best in the business.

:)

[n2o]

GTBoy, you have a son? Shouldnt you be GTMan?? haha

Anyway, thanks for the info. For some reason I just dont like those Lynx radios. They are new (to me) and look kind of funny. But if you say they are good, I'm sure they are.. I guess it's safe to say that the R1 is a heavy radio. I am looking for the best over all radio, but I also want the top or close to top of the line radio. I dont like buying something and then wishing I had bought something else.. All I know so far as that the M8 and thw R1 both have what I want. And that almost all of the fast guys that win run with an M8.. But some are starting to use the R1..

-n2o

[GTboy]

JP:

Yup, you've got it right ( I'll be 50 in 2 weeks) but I can still race with the boys...LOL. Oh, and I couldn't access GT Man so I tried the next best thing. Yeah, GTboy suits me fine!

n20:

I can't remember the ad but maybe it was Bruckners that said the KO is the fastest radio on earth ( meaning signal I presume). This would go along with Railman's post.
I think that all of the top radios are very good and all are very close in features. To me the most important thing if all the transmitters are relatively equal is:

1. The FEEL and comfort in my hand.

2. Warranty and service turn around time.

One option I really like about the Lynx Spectra is once the Novak adjustable reciever is out crystals will be a thing of the past. On 75 band that is awesome. I'm sure Hitec is working on that as well as all the other transmitter manufacturers. In KO products usually over the years they are the pioneers in new concepts with transmitters and recievers so the future looks bright.

GTboy/man!

:)

[Tee]

Just wondering who on this thread races at my home track, Delta RC in Antioch California?

[morfeeis]

$%&# i flipped the tank on my gt yesterday and I think I drilled the holes wrong cause now they dont match up.. :mad:


i took out the tank put in a piece of scrap wood got the pattern and then just flipped it o well... i will use the tank as a template the thing i wanted to know is will the holes in my chassis (like the ones in my head) weaken it to much? should i think abort getting the flat blue chassis now

[VexVegaz]

hey guys ,gokou(nice truck),n2o,railman and everyone else.

N2o, im basicly in the same situation as u
im currently in the market for a new tx & rx.
this magnum jr isnt cutting it anymore
but i do have my choices narrowed down to the m8 or ex1 , the r1 is just too bulky for me and besides i have a hard time justifiying(spelling?) 400+ on just tx & rx

my only concern right now is if i end up getting a KO would i need to buy new servos
my current servos are hitechs with futuba j connectors, do they sell just adapters?
i have a budget of about 480,so if anyone has any input please holla at me!

-vex

[ 05-23-2001: Message edited by: VexVegaz ]

[Skateboarder]

Jace2000, Thanks fot the T-maxx idea but I already had one and I traded it for an E-maxx :) I want something that is going to be stable and fast. Im now stuck between the gt(maybe factory team) and the NMT racer.
Anyway thanks guys

[Gokou]

Vex: yes you can just get adapters for your servos and use them with your new radio. I think Novak makes a plug conversion kit. I'm not too sure on this-- hopefully someone else will know. Often, you can just buy servo extension harnesses to match your new radio, and remove the plastic plug from it, then swap it onto your servo and wire it to match the pinout on your receiver.

As for servos: All I have in my cars are Airtronics 94358's or 94357s. I love them, very fast and very torquey. Unfortunately they're really stiff with the power off, so a return spring is out of the question on these. I've heard great things about the new Hitec digital servos, and the JR servos are also good (like the 4750 and their new digitals.) The only ones I personally can comment on are the airtronics, which I really like, but I'm sure the JRs and Hitecs are excellent too.

As for the M8: mine eats alkalines in about 6.5 hours of use, and those are cheapie costco AAs. It's not bad, but it certainly isn't easy on batteries. I just picked up 9 (yes, 9) NiMH batteries for it to replace the alkalines. You can easily modify the battery holder in the M8 to hold 9 batteries (a tip I picked up from a friend who races at Castle Hobbies), thus getting a bit more voltage out of the rechargeables (remember, alkalines are 1.5 volts, rechargables are 1.2 volts). He gets about 5 hours of use out of his NiMH batteries, but charging them is quick and easy, and would save a lot of money over time.

And Tee: I would be racing at Antioch if I could-- I'm finishing off school. I raced out there two or three times last summer when I could ( I was swamped at work all summer and never really got many chances to make it out), but after graduation next month, expect me to be out there much more often, hopefully every Saturday, unless I start racing elctric at Ripon, then I'll be out there every other Saturday :D I really like their setup out there and wish I could make it out more often, but it's really hard for me. Hopefully it will be much easier after graduation and I get settled back down at work.

[n2o]

thanks alot for the tips and info guys. I think after hearing what every one has had to say. And after looking at the prices, I think it's going to be the M8. Unless my hobby shop will come down on it just a tad. my LHS has it for 399, I would pay 300-320. But like Vex said, thats alot of money for an tx / rx radio. The M8 should be able to do everything I need though, right?

thanks again..

-n2o

[GTboy]

VexVegaz:

My KO Mars 297 reciever uses the Futaba style connectors. ( the ones with the little lip on one side). That should work for you ok. A friend of mine was to lazy to change his connectors on his servo so he just shaved off the lip on the Futaba connectors and they work perfectly in his reciever that was not made for Futaba connectors.

If you decide on the KO just order it with a Futaba style plug reciever and your good to go!

:)

[Gokou]

My M8 does everything I need and then some. There are quite a few features on it I don't use (reponse, servo speed, etc). Well worth the $175 I paid for it (bought it sealed in box from a guy who bought it for a spare and never used it). I came amazingly close to buying an R-1 last summer based on sheer "wow" value, but ended up with the M8 instead. As much as I loved the looks and features of the R-1 (it's a very impressive piece) even I had a hard time justifying dropping $400 on a TX/RX. The R-1 looks awesome, has lots of neat features, you can plug it into your computer to store profiles, and felt pretty good in my hand, but it was just too darn heavy. I loaned out an R-1 from my LHS (they let you try stuff if you leave your credit card)-- sometimes I drive my GT for 4+ hours straight, and the R-1 got tiring in my hands after about 35-40 minutes. Also, you have to consider that sooner or later you or someone else will either knock over or drop your transmitter. I didn't want to have a $400 radio get damaged. The M8 also felt better in my hands and it does everything I need for half the price of the R-1. I was considering a EX-1 Mars because of all the good feedback I hear about it, but I couldn't try one and didn't want to buy one without trying it, so I went with the M8.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I'm in the market for a new radio system as well. (I just sold my futaba 2pcka) I like the Lynx 3D, M8, and the Profi Car.

Lynx - Love my friend's. It's light balanced and I like the functions.

M8 - Tons of guys I've seen have them, an I like the way they feel. Nice big screen, and big enough for my hands.

Profi Car - never held one, but I like the layout of their software (very user friendly) I'm scared away by their price, and how quickly they drain batteries. If you haven't seen this radio, here's their website - multiplex (http://www.multiplexrc.com)

About the chassis for the gt's, just get a flat one. They are the cheapest solution, and were made to cure the tub's problems. Don't get titanium as it is a brittle metal and will snap instead of bend. (I've seen this happen)

GTBoy, maybe we should trade sn's because I'm only 15, and you're almost 50.-GTMAN

[TRXboy]

Ok, i gess i will try out stock tranny gears...about the video thing....im getting a digi video recorder this summer, get ready for some vids!! Heres somthing new for you guys, i just picked up a new spur gear, the guy was out of RRP so he gave me an associated one, but its a kimburg gear inside, bounse, not as good as RRP but way better then stock.

[JP]

At the Chicago Hobby show (awhile back) I was talking to a represenative of Hitec about the Lynx Spectra 3D and why they didnt have a receiver that could do the same thing. He said "Novak has one right now in their case which will work with this radio, but we are deciding whether or not to make it." He sounded like he was hiding the fact that they are gunna make one, which makes me beleive they are gunna come out with a no crystal receiver with a DUAL conversion (2 filters)...WOO HOO!

[JP]

Rc1oGtMaN - I HATE the feel of the Multiplex radio. Its very cool and a ton of features...but it feels like you holding a light brick with the trigger! The trigger is so not shaped for your hand when I felt it. The width of the trigger is adjustable for different sized fingers, but when you hit the brake, it opens all the way (no lock on the setting) and it feels bad! You'd expect something of this quality/expensiveness would be better...

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Thanks JP, I've never heard of that, and it sounds awkward. Well I'm narrowed down to the last two competitors then. I like the KO's but I have big hands. :(

[GTboy]

RC1oGtMaN:

Nah, its ok! I like being a kid, keeps my wife on her toes. hehe.

Also try the Mars if you can before you buy at the LHS or find someone who has one. I have big hands but narrow with long fingers and the Mars fits me like a glove.

TRXboy:

There is no need for anything but the stock tranny gears. Just take the time to build the diff right and it will be bulletproof for you.

:)

[Jace2000]

Skateboarder.

NMT???? No way~!!
Get the GT! :)
I have a lot of NMTs around me and they spend most of their time at the pit fixing stuff. :D

[atm92484]

lol Jace. I have a NMT and what you said is true. It was nice when I first got it but it became a hassle to keep ordering parts. Thats why the GT is always driving when the NMT is sitting under the table.

[ 05-23-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[VexVegaz]

thanks alot for the fast n informative opinion guys.
it seems like im getting a mars 1 and a new hitech throttle servo

like i said
thanks again guys

-vex

[Rc1oGtMaN]

GTBoy, I don't know anyone around me w/a Mars. Is it similar in grip length to the Hitec Lynx Sport Models? Lynx Sports are tight for me. My fingers aren't thin, they're like medium width but long.

It's gotta be wierd for someone to just drop into this thread, and see us talking about our finger sizes. :)

[Gokou]

Hmmmmmm... since I can't find that pesky C0302 Mugen Athlete receiver box, I'll think I'll do the next best thing this weekend and make a carbon fiber receiver/throttle servo protector and pick up a HPI receiver cover. Any other suggestions for things I should make out of carbon? I have two 4 foot x 8 foot sheets of it (it pays in more ways than one to work in aerospace :D)

[ 05-23-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[Snoozy]

While you are at it, you could make me one.. I'll be your "beta" tester...LOL

[JP]

I think he's just a kid at heart and mind...

how close was I?

[Jace2000]

I luv this forum~!
It's increasing by almost a page everyday.
http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[Railman]

N2o, I'm with GTman, LOL, on the Mars radio. We've been using 3 of them for well over 4 years, along with 6 receivers. The only thing that has happened is a broken antenae (son's poor technique), & a broken trigger which was a result of another son borrowing my car & radio for a race & tightening the triger space too tight for my fat finger. Ca'd it about 3 years ago & it's still going. Another consideration is the pricing on the crystals...very reasonable on the KO's. It's still hard to argue about the M8's though. Decent price, feel, & user friendly from what I've heard anyway. As far as quaity signal & such the JR & Mars was highly recomended on this site by someone who tested the signals of a bunch of radios. Can't remember where that thread was though. I know a guy (very fast) that always ran JR radios, & tried using the new Hitech model. I assume it didn't work out though, & ended up going for the new JR, much to his liking.

[Gokou]

If I can get autoclave and machine time at work this summer, I am seriously considering making a bonded aluminum/carbon fiber chassis, or just a pure carbon chassis. It's a very simple piece to make (hey, it's mostly flat!) plus I can use the CMM to create a very precise model (down to .00001", hehe) of the FTGT chassis. Then all I have to do is have one of the Fadals whip me out a mold, then lay up the prepreg and autoclave it. I'd probably make it 1/8" thick, but I don't know what carbon tape I would use to lay it up since I would have to mooch scraps off a program (I can't just take it from inventory, carbon fiber prepreg is $400+ a pound for certified stuff, which is all we use). I know the carbon wouldn't dissipate heat as well as the aluminum, but it would be sweet to have a carbon chassis FTGT. I think it would also be pretty awesome to chemically mill the stock chassis down to about half thickness and then laminate it with carbon fiber. That way the chassis would be much more resistant to fracturing than pure carbon fiber. Oh well, plans in my head that will probably never happen. :)

[TRXboy]

Gokou- Did you ever here of these people around the boards's - OvalQueen and Holmwrecker - They have a Sweet Carbon Fiber Chassis for the GT that i wish i had, Company that made them is gone tho :( I think they come around these boards so maby if they read this they can tell you more.Later.


-Nick

[Gokou]

Composite Craft used to make a carbon fiber chassis replacement for the old tub chassis, but they are loooooong out of business. A guy a while ago was selling a truck with one on ebay. Unfortunately it has the same motor mounts/wheelbase as the tub chassis.

Found it. Look here: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=581068159

[ 05-24-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[n2o]

Gokou..
So you like your M8 pretty well eh? I think I will just get the M8 as well, because even though the R1 might have a few things the M8 doesnt. How many of those things are you really going to use?? But do you think if I get the M8 and set up the exp right and all, that I will be able to keep it from getting so lose in the turns and straights?

Also, I think that some of this might have something to do with the poor way my truck was driving last week at the track. I had this plastic 'manafold' on my exhaust port that was made for a 1/8th scale air filter that had a close bend in it so I could get the body on. I only put it on because some punk at my LHS said that he used one on his GT and it worked fine. So I thought, what the heck, lets give it a try.
Anyway, after running with this plastic manifold for a few weeks. I thought MAYBE thats some of the reason I was having such hard time keeping the temps down. So last night I pulled it off and stuck the Mugen exhaust manafold back on it. It was like night and day, as soon as I put the Mugen back on there and tuned the engine a little for the new exhaust pressure. It was just screaming fast and WAY more responsive. So after that, I heard a screaming sliping sound whenever I would really get on my GT hard. So I looked it over and found that my diff was sliping and was just really screwed up. (maybe thats some of the reason it was handling so bad?). I knew I was going to re-build the diff anyway, so I locked the diff really tight and went for a drive. MAN, all I can say is that the diff had to be lose for a LONG time. Because my GT was doing wheel stands on the street at less than half throttle! And it was just a TON faster than it has really ever been.

I re-built my transmission last night and just cleaned my whole truck.

I guess there is still alot to learn about nitro racing.

I really wish they had people in the hobby shops as knowledgeable as the people on this web board. The air filter fitting that I used on the exhaust really looks like it should work. But I should have figured in the first place that it wouldnt work that well for the engine, I just wanted to give it a try. Anyone have an idea on how I can bend my Mugen exhaust manafold without braking it?

-n2o

[morfeeis]

Well, I think I fixed those 2 sounds last night I took the whole diff apart (dam thrust balls) and it was as smooth as tank treads before I re lubed it and put it back together..

I also saw that I had to much drag break and that the slipper was to lose so all that has been fixed..

but now there is one thing i need to know did i mess up or are the tires meant to stop when i hit the brake cause right now the slipper is the only thing that stops...Any idea's on what i did wrong

[ 05-24-2001: Message edited by: morfeeis ]

[morfeeis]

anyone every been here

http://rc-cars.net/rccp/GTtips/GTtips.htm

[TRXboy]

Yeah i been there, gokuo, that chassis use's the old engine mounts but it can use the trinity enginemount which makes it really stiff.

[Gokou]

n2o: Yes, I really do like my M8. It has everything going for it, at least for me: good price, buttons are all easy to get to, it's comfy, easy to read display, easty to program, and all the features I want. If they made a PCM variant I'd be even happier! What do you mean by you have problems getting so loose in the turns and straights? Is your radio just over-responsive to inputs? If so, just add some negative exponential. I really don't know, because I don't run exponential. I'm a 100% proportional guy at the moment. That might change when I get a slide carb though.

About the exhaust manifold... hopefully those Novarossi truck manifolds get released soon. I know they are in the works. As for the rubber manifold-- your LHS guy said it worked fine, probably because he never tried a proper manifold.

As far as bending the Mugen manifold, that's what I did on my truck. I bent mine with low heat (fan flame attachment on torch, set very low) and a spring bender. You have to be careful, it is VERY easy to collapse the rather weak aluminum Mugen uses. If you collapse the tubing, the header is junk. Take your time and be very careful, and don't heat the manifold up too much. It's not difficult to do, but you must exersize caution or you'll flatten the poor manifold like a pancake :eek:

[Railman]

N2O, no need to take it all out of the manifold. Bend the body out some. Just apply a flame to the outside of the body to bend it out. Lexan will shrink on the side that is heated, resulting in an outward buckle. Try to practice this on an old body or scrap piece of lexan 1st though.

[n2o]

Gokou, hope I didnt sound like a total dumb a...

I was just going to give the hobby guy some credit and try it out. And when I put it on, I was still really tuning the engine. So I saw no power loss, but when I put the mugen back on there it was like a new engine. I'm going to take my GT to the 1/8th scale track, because on the big double at my 1/10th track with the plastic manafold I could almost miss the other side of the track.. heh..

Suspension...

Pretty much, this is what it was doing to me.
When I would come around the last turn and try to cut it down the straight. I would have to role onto the throttle very slow or it would just get sidewase on me. So after I role into it nice and slow, then I would get on it a little more and it would just fish tale like crazy and sometimes get into the wall. And on all of the turns it would try to 180* every time I tap the throttle. And there was just no traction to get over the jumps. I know alot of this had to do with the truck just needing some cleaning and adjustment. But some of it was due to bad setup. Because I was racing a kid with a half horse old tub style GT and he would sometimes stop and wait for me because of all of the 180*'s and stuff..... :mad: :mad:

BTW, did you heat the pipe and then slide the tube bender over it?? Could you bend it without a tube bender? And the bender you are talking about, is it like a large spring that you 'role' the pipe with?

thanks

-n2o

[ 05-24-2001: Message edited by: n2o ]

[Gokou]

n2o: nah, you didn't sound like a dumb***... You were just following a suggestion. Doesn't make you stupid, heck it's worth a try. Was it a VERY tight bend in the rubber manifold or something? That's the only way I can see it really hampering performance. Remember, Traxxas uses rubber manifolds on a lot of their vehicles, but the bends in them are very gentle.

As fas as the spring bender goes-- you can find them at hardware stores, usually near the dies for threading steel gas pipe and the like. Or, just find a spring that will fit inside the manifold snugly, and run it all the way through (putting oil/grease on it helps to snake it all the way through the manifold). All it does it keep the tubing from collapsing when you bend it. I put the bender in the manifold, then lightly heated it and bent it. After it cooled I removed the bender. After reshaping my manifold (I brought it in and upwards), it hits the body, but it doesn't bend the body outwards-- it just lightly rubs it. I have bent another Mugen manifold for a friend without using a tubing bender, but I did flatten it out in one section. Luckily I saved it by gently squeezing it back into shape. I suggest you find a spring though, it takes a lot of the risk out of the bending procedure.

As far as the spinning out goes, it's hard to say. It could be tires, suspension, or getting on the throttle too fast; it's just hard to say without seeing or driving the truck. With the MT-12 though it's probably just too much power. Try a carb restrictor to soften the punch. Also, are you running the stock 4.5 degrees of rear toe-in? That really helps tame a squirrely rearend.

And morfeeis: I don't really get your brake problem. You say when you hit the brakes, the slipper/spur stops, but the tires keep spinning? Are you sure you put the idler gear back in the tranny? That's the only way I can picture the slipper stopping and the wheels still spinning. Something's amiss, that's for sure... Maybe check the roll pin on the tranny top shaft and make sure the slipper/brake is assembled correctly. Check the diff too. Remember, tighten until the spring completely bottoms, then back it off 1/8 of a turn.

[ 05-24-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[TRXboy]

Morfis- check to see if your slipper is tight enough, Check all role pins(even the ones in the CVD's and Wheels) and see hwo tight the diff is.

[Tee]

Gokou, what track are you racing at if you're not at Delta? Hobbyworld? Do you race onroad with your truck? I see those onroad tires on your truck and wonder because I could always use some new racing venues myself. Not that I would race a truck onroad, but you never know... Just curiosity regarding the most prolific poster on this thread... Ok then, when you get all graduated and find the time, come out and race.

This thread just keeps on going and going...

[loki]

Hey all,

sakes alive, this thread's long...

Well, I thought I'd post a pic of my just-finished conversion from basher truck to street machine. I posted an in-progress pic in the General Forum, but now she's in final form:

http://www.imagys.com/s2k_final.jpg

http://www.imagys.com/s2k_final2.jpg

Which brings me to my question for the day. I'm having problems with keeping her pointed straight. The trim adjustment on the radio does very little to help. On a perfectly flat surface, with the trim perfectly aligned, she'll go straight, but as soon as a bump is hit, or the road becomes uneven, she'll veer off at anywhere from a 5-25 degree angle. Once up to speed, she can hold a pretty good line, but as soon as the brakes come on, she'll usually pull violently to one side. I can almost never pull off a completely clean stop :mad:

I think the problem was masked when I had the off-road rubber on, but it seems like the new lo-profile tread is hooking up much more on the pavement, and revealing some problems with my suspension setup. Any ideas where to begin? Anybody have a good recommended on-road setup?

FYI, I'm using 3-degree rear carriers, and the rear wheels have a very slight negative camber. The front has 0-degrees toe-in and 0-degrees of camber. I'm using 20-degree front axle carriers, but I'm guessing that I'll want to switch to the 5 or 0 degree carriers, since I've limited the suspension by about 10mm.

Thanks all,

Loki

[ 05-25-2001: Message edited by: loki ]

[Gokou]

Tee-- I'm not racing at all at the moment. I raced 2-3 times last summer at Antioch when I had free Saturdays, which was rare. Work kept me REAL busy last summer. Time is a big problem for me, last summer and now. I often have time to bash for an hour or two in my driveway and yard when I'm home, but I usually can't spare the time to drive an hour out to antioch, unpack, drive, then pack back up and drive an hour back home, then clean the GT. Heck, when I raced at Antioch, I leave the house at 7am and get back at 6-7pm. It's hard for me to get away for an entire day. I'm at school now (have been since August), and my GT is back home-- I have no place to drive my GT here at school, nor do I have my real car here, so even if I did have my GT here at school I have no means to take it anywhere to drive it. Plus, I'm so darn busy this year with my senior project and thesis, plus extra classes (I co-op'ed last year, so I'm taking 18 units a quarter all this year to make up for the classes I missed, compared to all the other seniors taking 12-13 units a quarter) I hardly have time away from school, much less time to wrench, drive, and clean my GT. About all I have time to do is check message boards a few times thoughout the day :D I do go home every 2-3 weeks, but I'm just as busy there as I am at school (some computer consulting work) so all I have time to do is bash in my yard/driveway-- hence the road tires. After graduation and I get some things straightened out (moving, etc) I should be able to make it out to Antioch more often, hopefully every weekend. I'm going home this weekend (I need a break from school) and will probably be up at Antioch Sunday if I can make it, just to mess around. I have to be in Reno Saturday, so I can't race Saturday, doh! And I think the Reedy Race of Champions is this weekend in Ripon... I have a few friends racing in it, I'm hoping to get back from Reno in time to stop by and see what's happening.

This is slowly becoming the inifinte thread. Kind of neat :)

Another thing Tee-- what's the current hot suspension/tire setup out at Antioch on the outdoor track? I want to know if I've got the tires or will need to buy a set out there Sunday.

[ 05-24-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[n2o]

Well.. I just got back from my LHS with a nice new M8! I also got a Futaba S9402 high speed high torque servo. The only problem is that I that I didnt know I had to have a Z connecter link for the Futaba servo. The guy at the hobby shop said it would work fine with the M8.. This is right isnt it? I looked in the manual for the M8 and it said I just needed a converter cable. Anyhoot, this is a sweet radio.. I'll NEVER use all of the functions this thing has.. But I will sure try!

Gokou, what do you store your M8 in?? How can I keep it from getting dust and stuff on it? I found a case for the R1 on http://www.horizonhobby.com that looks pretty cool. But I cant find one for the M8.

-n2o

[Railman]

Loki, Check all of your hinge & block pins for being straight . I read in a post a while back thay someone had a similar problem. What happend was he would get everything set straight & then hit a bump and it would rotate the bent pin & change the toe in, camber, or caster adjustments. You might also check the front axle for movement (loose screw). Hope this helps.

[Railman]

I've been wondering lately what engines you guys all run, rotary or slide carb, what glow plug you use, & with what fuel. Mine is an MT12 slide, 20% O'Donnel with an MC59.

[loki]

Hey Railman,

Thanks for the suggestion. Never woulda thought of that, but unfortunately, I already know they're straight since I had the front end completely disassembled a few nights ago.

As for your other post, I'm running an OS12CV with an O'Donnell head and MC59 plugs, adn Blue Thunder 10% Nitro fuel.

Later,

Loki

[TRXboy]

Hehe guys, check out the "Longest jump record" Thread in the Electric forum....If you know me you know what im laughing at :lol

[Gokou]

n2o: I just put it back in the box when I don't use it. It's a hassle. I wanted a bag, but the M8 is deep compared to other radios and won't fit any of the bags I tried. One of my friends with an M8 had a great idea though: Go down to a local hardware store and buy one of the neat aluminum suitcases, then buy a big block of foam, and carve it to fit the radio. The final product is a lot like the JR case for the R-1.

Railman: I'm sure you know what I run but here it is anyways: Either a modified MT-12 or RB X-12 (usually the modded MT12), MC59 plugs, Nova rotary carb (I'm going to put my OS 10-ER carb back on this weekend with my delrin insulating adapter), 30% O'Donnell fuel (mmmmm, 30%....)

[illbreakit]

Loki thanx for posting your picks (cool) I'm gona convert mine to on rd as well. Was allways wondering how a car bod would look, now I know. I'm gona go with the Acura NSX. Just love that car. Anyways, last week I slamed my gt to try it. I still had the off road tires on (Roaad rages will be in today :D )I made a front wing like a F-1 car in place of your bumper, Man did it handle at speed, no push. I found that the little slop I had in my steering ball cups made it handle like you describe, put on tighter fitting setup seemed to help.
Ill post picks when she's done.

Keep it GT and keep it real :cool:

[IFLYBYU]

Hey Gokou,

You can find the receiver case here:

www.tnet.com.au/~ace/ace_mugen_parts.html/ (http://www.tnet.com.au/~ace/ace_mugen_parts.html/)

Don't be alarmed at the prices as they are in aussie dollars. The price is comparable to US prices when converted, and shipping is cheap.

Are there any really strong front A-arm mounts that I should get for my GT?

Thanks
Mike

[GTboy]

Railman:

I'm using a Nova Rossi CX 12 side exhaust with a slide carb, MC59 plug, blue restrictor, Nova Pipe, 20% Xipp, MIP 4n1 clutch set at #2. I gotta say if you want performance try the Nova pipe. It is an excellent pipe, it still has the oomph on the bottom end and is scary fast on the top end. I literally was able to run away from other Rossi's, Rb's, OS's at last weekends Roar Regional race by 20-25' on a 140' straight and I was as fast as the 1/8's as well.

Gokou:

I took the styrofoam from the box my KO Mars transmitter came with and cut it out some so my Raytek gun fits with my transmitter then had a friend make a aluminum case around the styrofoam with hinges and a lock. Its a custom case that is small, looks good and guards my Mars really well.

:)

[n2o]

Hey, doesnt everyone think that Gokou and Railman should be admins of this fourm? Maybe we should all email steve and ask about it.. ;) ;) ;) ;)

This is a pretty cool thread.. I am going to print some of this information out before they close this..

-n2o

[n2o]

Oh yea, Railman..

I have the Novarossi MT12 with slide carb and the stock glow plug that came with it. And I run 30% Blue Thunder Racing fuel. I think it's about time for a new glow plug.. This one has had 1&1/4 gallons on it. Any recomds?

-n2o

[Railman]

N20, No admins for me. I need to cut back on my logg on time. Got to move my shop, build a new one, & move again...all within the next 6 to 8 months!
You'll like the M8. I highly recomend keeping the manual somewhere you can read it all the time without interuption...The john!
Works for me anyway. The reason I posted the Engine, fuel, plug question was to get a data base for what works for everyone. So far it sure looks like the MC59. It's hotter than the stock plug & will allow richer settings with good performance.

Loki, Did you check your servo saver & steering posts? They have a tendency to work loose. What rear blocks, & rear hub carriers
are you running? Is the servo centering consistently? Maybe a missing, or damaged tooth in servo?

[ 05-25-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Railman, what shop do you own? I'm running a modded OS CV-X with a gun metal gray Integy head, MC9-59 plugs depending on weather, and 20% Trinity Monster Horsepower fuel. (The exhaust smells kinda sweet when the trinity stuff burns) When I'm bashing I'll usually put in my .15 FE with stock plugs (can't remember what they are, and trinity through that too.

[n2o]

Hey guys.. What can I do to protect my servos? I just got a $115.00 high spees 1.9oz servo that I dont really want to mess up. I am going to get a servo saver tonight at the hobby shop. Anything else I should do?

thanks

-n2o

[loki]

Hey illbreakit, thanks. Doing the on-road thing's a pretty fun project. The NSX body would be sweet. I think my next body is gonna be the HPI BMW Z3 Estate. It looks like it'll be a pretty good fit on a GT, since it's got that fat hood flare (which should help accomodate the front suspension tower) and the wagon rear end...I had to cut holes in the rear deck of the Honda body to make room for the rear shock tower.

Gokou, I noticed in your pics from many many pages back (sweet rig, BTW) that you're running the road rages, and you mentioned that you were mainly bashing in your driveway. Have you opened the GT up in a wide parking lot, or on-road track yet? I'm kinda curious what your take on the difference between the on-road and off-road tires. Did ya change the gearing or suspension setup at all?

And Railman, thanks for the tips. I'm running HG alloy rear blocks, and 3-degree Associated hub carriers. The Servo is healthy, and centering correctly. There's also a brand-new Kimbrough servo saver on there that I haven't completely checked out yet.

I checked for slop in the front suspension, and did track down a loose screw on one of my ball studs. I've noticed though, that there's a considerable amount of slop in the front suspension, even with a full set of Robinson ball cups. Anybody have any tips on tightening the front end of a GT up a little?

Loki

[Tee]

Gokou,
someday, huh? Cool.

Loki,
I don't know the details of your lowering system, but if your truck is strapped down with the droop stops (however you accomplished this), that often makes for an out of control vehicle. In my experience, a vehicle needs to have left/right as well as fore/aft roll to maintain traction. So, if your truck isn't lowered right to allow roll, you're basically riding a skateboard, but the rider (the truck) can't flex it's legs to maintain traction.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1697457&a=13036365&p=49161244&Sequence=4&res=high

Thinking about getting this chassis stiffener. There's only four of them in the world. It's 40 bux.

Gokou, you should have looked on ebay for some progressive suspension resevoirs on thre for like $37.

[TRXboy]

That looks really cool, i have to get some stuff for my "Spare parts" GT, im making a GT out of all my spare parts and old chassis, just becasue..i dunno, the new chassis dosent make it feel like a GT like the Old one did and i can do with ot a Jump GT :)

[Jace2000]

N2O..

I already am the admin for this forum. :)
Besides, SteveP won't give any administrative rights to alter anything in this forum.

[ 05-25-2001: Message edited by: Jace2000 ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Mark, the guy who made that stiffener, is the same guy who made that totally homebuilt truck called Bad Monkey Jr., featured in RCCA a long time ago. You have to e-mail him for info on the stiffener. The guy also makes tools. His site is calledMark's Mark (http://www.marksmark.net).

Nick, I was thinking about doing that too. What are you putting into your truck?

[ 05-25-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[TRXboy]

My old picco .12 is going onto the old chassis, getting the trinity engine mount if i can find it, i have a set of hing pins i can use and a arms as well, tranny, got a whole set of that, bearings got them, everything but shock towers and bellcranks(Which i will have once i get the MIP kit)But as for the truck, i dunno, definetly gunna be beefyer then mu racer or my jump truck before because i didnt want to go insane with durability parts(Afraid of track opening and diching them all) But now its on!

[Railman]

Loki, Every time I look at your car it looks more cool! My guess is that you put a bunch of inside limiters in the shocks. Have you checked the setup for tweek. Try lifting one front wheel untill the opposite side lifts. note how high you need to lift that side, & do the same on the opposite side...should be close to same. Have you checked the shock shafts for being bent?
If your going to run mostly on road you might want to get rid of some of the rear toe in. I think the tuning guide recomends losing most if not all of it for on road. If the HG's are 1 1/2' carriers swap them side for side to cancell out some of the tow in. That way you'll go from 4 1/2' on each side to 1 1/2 degrees on each side (3'-1.5=1.5).
The straight axle on road cars have 0' toe in.

Gokou, what blocks & carriers do you run?

GtMan, It's a woodworking shop that manu-
factures................................
Rails! They are pre finished & pre assembled wood handrail systems for new homes. We do about 3 miles of it a year. Hopefully it'll be a lot more with the new shop. :cool:

[Gokou]

When I'm bashing in my driveway I run RPM 0-degree rear mounts with the AE 1.5 degree carriers for 1.5 degrees of rear toe. I run 10 degree front caster blocks. The setup works very well for on-road-- the back end is on the fine line between traction and sliding, so I can do awesome drifts through turns, and they're easily controlled :)
I run the default GT offroad setup, even when I drive onroad, because I often decide to bring out a ramp (about 3 feet high at launch point, 6 feet long or so) and hit it at very high speed, repeatedly. My GT stays in the air a loooooooong time, considering it's geared 17/63 (with that gearing it still pulls wheelies...) BTW, landing on your lawn is much safer than landing a large jump on asphalt... a nice soft thwack instead of a cringing scrape :eek:

I have tried lowering the truck, but I honestly like how it handles with the stock setup onroad. The truck was just too "darty" when I slammed it, plus, I couldn't jump :D The stock setup makes handling more predictable and controllable IMO. When I had it slammed (about .20" off the ground) I couldn't control drifts-- it would just spin around faster than I could correct for it, and the truck was just twitchy responding to inputs. I had the best results running slightly heavier oil, but nearly the same overall default setting: 45wt oil in front and 40 in back, with #1 pistons in back, #2 in front, and silver springs front/green rears. If you want more steering, try blues in front. That's the best setup I found for onroad, but the oil was too heavy to soak up bigger bumps offroad.

If I am going driving off-road, I leave my suspension setup the same, change tires (duh), and switch to 25 or 30 degree caster blocks in front. Depending on the conditions, I'll often put the AE 3 degree rear mounts back in to put the rear back to 4.5 degrees of toe in.

Took some new pics of my GT this morning with the piggybacks... I couldn't borrow the digital camera from my friend so you'll all have to wait until I get the film developed. I took some pics of another toy I recently acquired, you'll all just have to wait in suspense :)

[ 05-26-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[TRXboy]

Gokou - WOT On street+ 7 foot high ramp with 38 degree angeled lip, with 70wt oil and tight springs...= 73 feet..... :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[Turboduck01]

Hey guys, my local track is starting to run dirt oval, so i was wonderin, does anyone have a setup that would be a good starter set up? Are stiffer springs better? Stuff like that :p Thankya!

[Rc1oGtMaN]

If anyone is still interested in buying a JP Black engine, I found LF Hobbies (http://www.lfhobbies.com). They don't list prices on the engines, but I think they run at about $235-$245, but I can't remember.

Railman, when you bought your KO Mars, did it come with servos? I've seen it all over the place for $230, and some pics have servos in them, but some don't. The captions never say whether or not they include them. If this radio doesn't come with them, I'm buying the M8.

[GTboy]

RC1oGTMAN:

I own a Mars as well, and mine did not come with servos. I believe KO figures since it is a top of the line Transmitter that you will put top of the line servos of your choice in your vehicle. Stock servos don't really cut it for racing. 2 top line servos is another $200 so that would really increase the cost of the KO transmitter to the first time buyer. I had great servos already, all I needed was a good FM transmitter and reciever so I chose the Mars.

:)

[Railman]

Like GTBOY says, (as far as I know anyway)the Mars doesn't come with servos. You can't go wrong with either radio though. I'm sure you'd be happy with the M8, but don't buy it because of some $12 servos that won't be used anyway. By the time most people buy a good radio they want to pick their high end servos also. I'd much rather they didn't come with servos. Either radio will make your driving better & more fun. Later.

[TRXboy]

Good day guys, got my GT all cleaned up and ready to race, i think i figured out my turning problem, the steering servo mounts where all worn out and couldent hold the servo so it would flew instead of turn.Problem number 1. I still thin i should get the MIP kit tho, all i need now is a new engine and tires, which is all on the way.

[stormperson]

just a quick servey:

Who here has a back up engine?

and how do people secure their manifold? (thread lock, nuts...)

thanks!

[TRXboy]

Storm, i have a cuple of back up engine, the Picco.12 is still ok for emergency's, and i have 2 TRX engine's that never been ran before(Not the best but will do)to hold the header on i use both blue lock tight and a metel lock nut(Not the nylon they melt, found that out the hard way)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Thanks GTBoy and Railman. I gotta think my radio issues over again now.

Storm, I just put some threadlock on my manifold screws and it seems to hold well. My spare engine is an HPI .15 FE. It's really slow, but if I needed it on race day I'd run it.

[stormperson]

its amazing, i use tamiya blue thread lock, and let it sit overnight, and it still loosens up. i will try non lock nuts too.

should i just get another .12 cvx and then get a better head for it, or should i just get a cvrx (i really never liked starter boxes). or is it worth it to get a starter box?

[Railman]

On my CV's, I just used a thin coat of RTV silicone instead of a gasket. No problems with gasket alignment, & I believe it draws more of the heat away from the exhaust port (only my theory). It never came loose even without Locktite. A little RTV on the threads is all you need to hold the screws this way, & makes it easy to remove the screws when needed. Just take a flat file & slowly but firmly draw across the header flange to flatten a little. When you do this it will tend to remove a little more at the screw holes (sides), than at the center. This is a good thing because it will preload the center of the flange a little to give a better seal. Then just apply a thin coat of sensor safe RTV to the header flange & tighten down. If you want add a little RTV to the screw threads. I've been doing this for about 5 years with perfect results on 4 different GT's & 6 different engines.
:cool: ;)

[ 05-27-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[Gokou]

When I ran my modded .12 CV Hyper I used the stock gasket (port matched) and the AE header (also port matched). Like Railman, I didn't use any threadlock or locknuts to help hold it on-- it never came loose for me. I have had the manifold on my MT-12 pop off once when the spring broke... so it's now spring and safety-wired on. :)

[stormperson]

i just went to the hardware store, and got some copper rtv sealant, and also some red thread lock.

about how large of a bead should i use to seal the backplate?

also how long should i wait before i run the car after i stick the sealant and threadlock on?

also i am ordering the duratrax piston and sleeve since its finally in stock, its odd this new piston and sleeve already lost most of its compression after 10 tanks.

[blackwolf]

after reading this forum, I have come to the conclusion that it was a mistake to buy the R1. It IS heavy, and after about an hour, my trigger finger goes numb. Maybe I'm getting leprosy, or maybe I'm holding it wrong, or maybe you guys are right, and it is big and heavy.

Goku: Good to see some familiar faces. I go as PuppyChow on the [H]ard|OCP forums.

[RC10GTMark]

Hey what advantage is there to running AM over FM in RC. I use an entry level am radio now, what will I gain from upgrading to a higher model FM reciever and remote?

[GTboy]

Stormperson:

I use a Rossi C12 and I have the same for a backup engine.

Mark:

Going from a AM to a high grade FM radio will give you a better signal so less glitching problems. Also you will find the throttle and steering response is smoother and quicker on a good FM radio. A good FM radio will make a good driver better but it won't make a lousy driver better. I would imagine most of the pros probably started with AM then changed to FM as they improved in their abilities.

:)

[BlackWolf]

Clutch Nut

Does anybody make an aftermarket clutch nut for the RC10GT? I have a Picco P12 engine, and would really want a clutch nut that has the threads all of the way up into the nut from the bottom.

The reason is, I cut my crankshaft just a little too short. It works fine, I'm just worried about it coming loose, and I'm not able to tighten down the stock nut hard without stripping off the threads on the crankshaft. There is only like 2 threads on the crankshaft holding the clutchnut on.

[Gokou]

Ah, BlackWolf, I was wondering when you were going to show up :)

Is the Picco like an OS crank, where the crank itself is threaded, or is it like a Novarossi crank where the threaded portion is a replaceable threaded rod? I don't know of any other clutch nut/pilot shaft that will replace the AE one.

OK, here it is, a pic of my GT with the Progressive Suspension piggybacks installed... Sorry the pic isn't the greatest, the photolab messed up and the originals were all grainy.

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/Gtwpiggy.jpg

And my other toy I mentioned earlier... I picked it up Friday. A distressed sale, guy didn't want his wife getting it in the divorce. A TrackMaster 125cc shifter kart!
http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/kart/kart4.jpg

It's pretty sweet. I got it for less than half of the mailorder price, it's never been driven, and the engine has never been fired. I got a Honda 125cc engine, pipe, and aluminum radiator to go with it. It still needs a seat and some little odds and ends but it was an awesome deal I couldn't pass up. Other pics of it are HERE (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/kart/) if you want to take a peek at them... I can't wait to get this sucker on the track this summer!

[ 05-30-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[stormperson]

NICE! hopefully it shouldnt take away too much r/c time.

how the the piggybacks work? i was thinking about them since they allow for quick oil rate adjusments (just wondering, how does one do that?) and they look cool!

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Well I think I'll get another AM radio and go to FM later. (Sounds kinda stupid that I sold my old one, and am about to buy another.) Well, one of my good friends is selling his FTGT with a Picco .12 in it, all his spare parts, and bodies (less radio) to get a JPS Clodbuster. I think I'll buy either a KO master or a JR XR2.

Gokou, the crank on my friend's Picco is the OS type. You're truck is sweet.

My track just put in a dirt oval, does anyone have a good setup to start me off on?

[Gokou]

The piggybacks don't allow for quick damping rate adjustments. They're just expansion reservoirs, so you don't need to leave air in the shocks. The shocks work MUCH smoother with them-- I really like them.

Progressive's EDC shock kit has 4-position externally adjustable dampening, a-la Serpent shocks. However, the shock shafts in them are REALLY big and don't leave a lot of room for a piston. I really don't like their feel-- my LHS has them on the store's T-Maxx. The large shaft just doesn't leave enough room for the pistons IMO. They don't feel as good as the standard AE shocks with the piggybacks. Here's a pic of the EDC shocks-- notice how huge the shaft is.
http://www.progressivesuspension.com/images/products/rc/edc_shock_yellow.jpg

Also, they're $80 a pair. Yikes. That's a lot of moola to drop on shocks.

[wojo65]

I just bought a rc10gt rtr (first nitro) with 4-n-1 clutch and MIP 360 stinger pipe, how fast will my car go and what upgrades do you all think would be a good purchase, i am going to purchase q cvx .12 as soon as i learn how to care for engines properly. :confused:

[R/C Homie]

wojo good choice or ur engine upgrade just bought my .12 CV-X i have a few questions,
1st what weight shock oil should i use and what kinnda spings mineare very boingy, and ground out EASY!!!! also

my main question is (i'm new bare with me)
what do i do to get to my diff gear???? the diff is the big gear that leads from the drive shafts right???? also hy do so many ppl say to tighten it because of it slipping and melting how do i tightin it??? plz email me ur responce PLZ!!!! i'm in need of the responce fast thanx cya ajgarciagerard@msn.com

[Turboduck01]

Time for a race report : )
Where: Fastrax, Ridgecrest CA
What: Dirt Oval
Aww yes, my first dirt oval race, and boy, who could of thought that turning left could be sooooo fun!! I sucked seriously in the two heats, and found out it was the tires, or that's just my excuse :), Qualified dead last due to the crapy stock rod ends busting,and prepared for the A-Main, since there were only 5 gas trucks :P but anyways, They kept the track dry and we ran a 5 min main, i used losi step pins with my os cv engine, surprisingly fast :) I start in the lead! And i maintained the lead the whooooole time, i found a groove in the middle of the track, and boy was it great. 10 secs left in the race, Im in the lead after just lapping second place, i have it in the bag. Oh no! I flip over into the infield :( We're pullin 9 second laps here, so it wouldnt take long to catch up, well... i lost the race : ( 2nd place, after leading the race, but it was cool. I haven't had so much fun in a while.
Lessons Learned: Put washers on the bottom where the shocks are screwed in. Get rid of the stock rod ends, they are cheaper than poo : )
Hooray for GT's : )
:rolleyes:

[Railman]

wojo, The 1st thing I would do if I were you is to read past postings on this GT thread & also the nitro forums. I assume you have the Assoc. .15. If you do you should be happy with that engine. From all I've read about them they run very well when tuned right, & make somewhere close to 1 hp. Just make shure to break it in properly. I would recomend a temp gun to help you tune it & help it to last longer. The MIP clutch was an excellent upgrade choice, use the #2 setup. Next I would purchase a full ball bearing kit & install the front, & rear wheels first. Do the balance of the bearings whenever you get the chance, as in when you do normal maintainance. Depending on how you run your truck you may want to go to better tires after that. Next I would go to a better servo, preferably a good coreless model. Along with the servo I would recomend a nmh receiver pack. That's about enough to keep you busy for now. However what is most important, depends somewhat on how you're going to run your truck. Will you race it, bash, or like some guys, do the Evil Kneivel thing? If you continue to follow this board you'll pick up a wealth of info in a short periosd of time that will make your truck easier to take care of & be a lot more fun. Good luck. ;)

[ 05-28-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[loki]

Hey R/C Homie,

To adjust your differential, you need to remove the CVD from the diff outdrive on the right side of the car. Stick a 5/64 allen into the hole in the white plastic T-nut and turn the screw to adjust the diff. Righty-tighty, Lefty-loosey.

The build manual recommends tightening the diff adjustment screw until the spring compresses, then backing it off 1/8 turn. This is a good ballpark figure, though if you rebuilt the diff, you need to re-adjust it after the first run.

The way I check the diff adjustment is like so: Grab the car by the chassis, hold the spur gear still with one of your fingers, and try to roll the car on carpet or asphalt (push down as you roll). If the rear wheels turn as you're pushing the car, your diff is *probably* too loose. Then, pick the car up, hold one rear wheel and the spur gear still, and try to rotate the other wheel. You should be able to rotate it, though there will be a lot of resistance. If you can't turn the wheel, then your diff is definately too tight.

Hope this helps,

Loki

[TRXboy]

OK guys i need a quick answe on this once(Probly not gunna get one tho, a lil on the late side) Hightec radios(The 3D One) Do those fit futaba type servo's or are they th eones you need adapters for?

[BlackWolf]

GOKOU, what kind of manifold do you have on your GT?

[loki]

Hey Gokou,

You're still running the Motorsavers filter? Haven't you been paying attention to the filter thread in the Nitro Engine forum? ;) Those piggybacks definately make your rig look sweeter. I know it's a silly question, but now that you've got them on, would you say they're worth $75?

Railman, thanks for the comments on the car. I took her to a huge parking lot out in the 'burbs yesterday, and figured out most of the problems with the front suspension. The problems were coming from the new 5-degree front blocks binding, as well as binding between the RPM ballcups on the steering bellcranks and turnbuckles. I finally got it all worked out.

I'm inclined to agree with you Gokou, when it comes to limiting the suspension travel. I think the problem is that I just can't seem to forget that the car used to be a truck, and I'm constantly bottoming out on little obstacles that I'm used to sailing over. The reduced body roll does make cornering much much tighter though. I used 80wt. oil in the shocks, Gold springs up front, with Red springs in the rear. With the 5-degree front blocks and Road Hawgs, I can actually get some reasonable on-power steering. Still, I keep aiming for curb cuts and bumps in the road to get air...

In the final setup yesterday, I was running a 61T spur gear and 18T clutch bell, with the engine leaned out as much as I felt was safe. Man did she scream. The parking lot had a slight incline that I ran her down, and I've never seen her go so fast. The funky short wheelbase makes her pretty hairy to control at those speeds, and my day ended with at 25-yard end-over-end cartwheel which busted all sorts of things up in my carefully tuned front suspension (and drew applause from some spectators). Back to the workbench... :p

Loki

[Gokou]

You can limit the suspension travel, but to get good handling, the shocks not need to have up *and* downtravel from the lowered rideheight. Most guys who I see lower their trucks use limiters in the shocks and don't use shorter springs-- the result is that the suspension has no downtravel and because of that handling is erratic because the inside tires unload in a turn. I used to race my RC-10 team car onroad after our offroad track closed years ago. I made custom carbon fiber shocktowers and used the AE .71" shocks all around. No one could keep up with me through the turns, and the reason why was the downtravel. I had equal amounts of up and downtravel of my suspension, even at the slammed ride height-- everyone else just put limiters in the stock shocks to lower their cars and at ride height, their shocks were fully extended, and that was the problem. I never gave my secret away :D

As for the piggybacks: They were $62 (you're $13 high, hehe). As for if they were worth it: I can't really say yet. I've only driven the truck once with them, and it was in my driveway with the ramp set up. You'll have to wait until I can make it out to the track and give 'em a run. However, the truck did take landings from jumps noticably smoother than without the piggybacks. The real test will be on the track though over ruts and bumps. However, from just playing with the truck and working the suspension with your hands, you can feel a substantial difference in shock feel, a difference for the better. I'd say so far I've justified $30 of their price just on the basis of looks and feel... the other $32 will hopefully be justified by performance at the track. :) If the performance today landing from jumps in my driveway was any indication, they should be killer on the track.

18/61? Bah! Go get 22/56 from a DS... I have a set for entertainment on the street. Talk about taking a loooooong time to wind out, but wow! Look at those tires grow! BTW, another tip I have: BALANCE YOUR WHEELS/TIRES! My first set of tires were horribly off-balance. I had some weird handling bugs I couldn't trace down. Then I noticed half the tire was wearing down, and one half looked new. It was that out of balance that it was leaving the ground at high speed. I went and picked up a Top-Flite prop balancer and some adhesive backed lead and balanced my tires. It's amazing what a difference it can make, both for handling, tire life/wear, and bearing life. Use the balancer before you glue the tires and keep rotating the wheel in the tire until you find the spot where the combo is least out of balance. Then glue it, and final balance it with the lead.

As for running the motorsavers: yes, I'm still running it, only because I have yet to find a foolproof, secure way to hold my K&N filter on-- it likes to fall off after hard landings or crashes. I've had great luck with the motorsavers, I have yet to see any dust/dirt in the motor or on the insides of the filter. Also, I oil the foam in my motorsavers with thick Bel-Ray air fiter oil or K&N oil. I would NEVER run light oil on any airfilter-- it just doesn't work! I've heard lots of people with motorsavers say they run WD-40 or just rinse the foam with nitro, and think that's enough. They couldn't be more wrong. Outer mesh filter or not, you need thick airfilter oil on the foam to catch dust! WD-40 won't cut it.

[TRXboy]

Come on some one's gatta know my questions answer!

[Gokou]

Questions? What questions? Seriously... I just looked through the last 3 pages and I think they got lost in the shuffle! Refresh our memories TRXboy... If the question is the stock tranny gear question, then yes, they'll hold up behind a CV-R. I run stock AE gears with my MT-12 and X12. Only aftermarket things in my driveline are an RRP clutch bell, RRP machined plastic spur, and MIP lite drives. I never had a problem with any of the AE stock stuff. I got the lite drives to see if they wear longer than stock (they seem too), got the RRP spur because it runs truer and lasts longer than the AE spurs (though I never tore an AE spur up, just didn't like the way they wobble),
and I run the RRP clutch bell because it also lasts longer than the AE clutch bell.

:::slaps self::: TRX, I just noticed your receiver question. Yes, I do believe Hitec receivers have the Futaba J plug standard. You can also get them in KO/JR/Airtronics Z plug, which has the same wire pinout as the Futaba J, but the plastic shell doesn't have the little tab sticking off the side like the J. You can fit a Futaba J plug into a Z slot by trimming off the little tab with a knife.

I just finished making a carbon fiber receiver/throttle servo protector plate. I'm debating if I should put decals on it or just mill "speed slots" in it... it looks a little plain. I'm thinking about 6 slots made with an 1/8" end mill at a 45 degree angle would make it look cooler, not that it looks bad as it is, but I think it would look better with some speed slots :D

And BlackWolf: I'm running a Mugen manifold, which I reshaped quite substantially with a spring bender and a torch. It can be done, it just takes time and caution so you don't collapse the tubing.

[ 05-28-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[stormperson]

just a quick engine Q here:
-when i am rebuilding an engine, should i basically coat everything with afterun oil to keep it nice and lubricated?

also what should i use on the crank bearings?
-the pink trinity stuff, or afterun oil, or what?

-finaly question:
-what have people found to be the most durable gt body?

[wojo65]

Im sorry i forgo to inform on my first post i purchased full team bearings, with a set of flanged bearings already. I will be bashing this not hard though, but mostly i will be back yard racing at my friends track.
Any ideas what are a need for this?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

TRXBoy, Gokou's right, just trim off the little tab and it'll fit perfectly.

Storm, I dunno if you have to put the after run oil on everything, but it dosn't hurt. Are you talking about lubing the bearings, cleaning them, what? If lubing them, most people put light oil in their bearings, but you don't wanna do that w/these. Use some heavy grease or the stock stuff so you don't have to keep relubing all the time. I clean mine motor spray and realube them. I don't know what the most durable body is. (I don't flip, but I'm so good, the wall knows me by name. :D )

[SteveP]

Storm - It's a good idea to lightly coat all the moving parts with After-Run or Marvel Mystery Oil. Makes everything go together more smoothly. I've been using Pro-Long during engine assembly and found it to work even better, but it costs more.

Wojo - what's your question????

[TRXboy]

hehe thanks Gokou and GT man, definetly the radio im getting(190 with noe servo's just a reciver...BONUS!) But i Still do not get how those MIP light drives are holding up for you, i shattered mine in a day with a Traxxas engine. Not even a High HP engine, hmm maby i will give it a go again, only drive line mods im running now is RRP cluch bell with kinburg spurs(Thats what AE sells under there name now) and a RRP titanum top shaft(You can acualy feel the weight diff b/w stock and that.

Strom- I use Pro line bodys, they seem to last me the longest(The whole week) and they look the best IMHO, im picking up a sierra body tommrow :)

[ 05-28-2001: Message edited by: TRXboy ]

[stormperson]

i got the rtr to start out with, the biggest hop ups are

-upgraded turnbuckles to ti, and also rpm ballcups.

in addtion since i didnt like the stock rubber, i got bow ties in the back (more traction)

and i also use losi dirt specs in the front, they wear at about a 1/10 the rate the stocks do, LITERALLY.

also i got hg rear arm mounts, however in retrospec i should of gotten rpm ones.

i also got rpm front arms since i normally hit stuff.

its upsetting, i maybe have 2 hours of actual run time on my gt, and i have had it for a year.

i use my tc3 for at least 2 hours each weekend and thats just basically practicing in my driveway, and once and a while my friend comes over who really isnt the best driver, and i just lap him.

hopefully once i get the whole engine thing sorted out i will have a nice running gt.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Nick, two Lynx 3D's just went on ebay w/servos. One for $175, and the other for like $140. If I would have known you were into them I would told ya earlier. Keep looking before you order a new one if you're interested.

[TRXboy]

*Gone to look threw EBay*

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I found two Spectras for ya right here:

Numero Uno (http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1600853503)

Numero Dos (http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1601231444)

[wojo65]

What upgrades are a most with the rtr gt, i have a stinger pipe, 4-n-1 clutch and full team bearings with flanged bearings. I would like to know what else i should get and a good gear ratio set up for accel. :cool:

[BlackWolf]

Gokou: I've got a quesion about the screw set on your GT along with the little GS aluminum washers you've got.

Those washers, they are all "counter sunk" right? meaning, I'll have to get countersunk type scews for them.

What do you call the type of scews you got from McMaster Carr? I know they're stainless, but what should I ask for?

[Gokou]

I used all 18-8 stainless socket head (read: allen head) screws. You need a combination of flatheads (countersunk style) and capscrews (circular raised head, the standard style, such as for the shock mounts). Just go over the truck and instructions and draw up a list of what you need, then buy one box of each length you need. The bulkhead/arm mount screws are 8-32, McMaster has those too. You can get them in standard phillips head (as stock) or socket flathead (allen style). I think I ended up buying about 8 different sizes/styles of 4-40's, which did the entire truck. I only needed one length of 8-32's.

Let me find a link at McMaster for you...

Here's a link to their stainless flatheads: http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ss.asp?FAM=scs&FT_110=286& desc=Socket+Cap+Flat+Head+Screws&FT_113=296&FT_101=101 (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ss.asp?FAM=scs&FT_110=286&desc=Socket+Cap+Flat+Head+Screws&FT_113=296&FT_101=101)

Here's a link to their stainless socket heads: http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ss.asp?FAM=scs&desc=Socket+Cap+Screw s&FT_113=296&FT_110=284&FT_101=101 (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ss.asp?FAM=scs&desc=Socket+Cap+Screws&FT_113=296&FT_110=284&FT_101=101)


Here's a link to their buttonheads (if you want to use them): http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ss.asp?FAM=scs&FT_110=28 5&desc=Socket+Cap+Button+Head+Screws&FT_113=296&FT_101=101 (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ss.asp?FAM=scs&FT_110=285&desc=Socket+Cap+Button+Head+Screws&FT_113=296&FT_101=101)

GPM makes a *killing* on their stainless screw sets. From McMaster, a box of 100 is only about $4.50, and from GPM you get 100 screws for $18. But from McMaster you have to buy a whole bunch of boxes which will end up costing more than $18, while from GPM you get one bag with everything. However, I prefer the McMaster route-- you'll have a TON of spares! :D

I also noticed this morning that the chassis on my GT is bent. The nose is tweaked up about 1/8", starting just behind the nose brace mounts. Guess I smacked that tree harder than I thought I did a few weeks ago :p

[ 05-29-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[stormperson]

i was reading something on the maxxtraxx forum, and inside the supermaxx forum, the guy who made it said that 18-8 is pretty soft. and to get the blue alloy steel if you want the strongest. but i guess you havent had a problem with the 18-8.

[Gokou]

Yes, stainless screws are softer than standard black-oxided steel screws (standard in the kit) but they are much stronger than aluminum screws. I haven't had any problems with the stainless screws, except in one spot: the upper shock mount screws. They bent pretty easy on hard impacts. However it's no longer a problem with the Trinity shock mounts, since they do the work of supporting the shock, while in the stock AE setup the screw is what give the upper mount its strength.

Ideally I'd be running Lunsford Ti-Scruz and have the best of 3 worlds: light, strong, and cool looking, but I have a hard time justifying $90 for a set of screws.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Can anyone tell me about the old Airtronics Caliber? Was there anything wrong with it? What are it's strong points? Thanks.

[Snoozy]

Just got back from the model shop. I finally gave in, my 9304 isn't enough for steering, so I moved it to throttle, and now have a 605BB up front. I also got some new shock bodies and a gallon of 30% Blue Thunder! I also got a new Green Machine 3 for my B3.

[Turboduck01]

snoozy tell us how you like your new servo

[TRXboy]

OK guys i need a tight track set up, like really tight, i made the truck a shorter wheel base because i herd it gives more steering...acualy maby RCCA can help me because they have seen my track, RCCA, what setup would you recomend for Long Island race ways track?

[stormperson]

if its blue groove, try saucing the front tires, that should give you more steering, if you dont have enough.

[Snoozy]

I like it! .13 and 91 oz/in VERY respectable for $40. I am very satisfied with it.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I think some toe out might help ya TRXBoy. I could be off, but my understanding is that toe out helps you corner, but it's harder to control in the straights.

Cool Snoozy. Hobby Hut must be down on their prices, because last time I checked the Hitec 605 was like $50. Mr. Mike told me he was losing business...

[Sal T. Nutz]

I have that 605BB for steering right now, and it's not even close to fast enough. I just ordered a 925mg today, that is the only servo that can get you trough a technical track. I'm moving my 605BB to the throttle, it should be good for there.

[stormperson]

i currently run a stock hitec in the throttle and it has been working fine, however, i fried one when i got some nitro on it.

as for steering i found the 615 is great. i dont run a servo saver with the mip steering and i have yet to have a problem.

[Railman]

Good luck with the 605's. I tried 2 & gave up on them. Should have bought one good servo instead. Maybe they were BOTH bad? Gotta be coreless for the numbers to mean anything! I like the JR4750 ($80->$90)

Toe out will give more turn in but will push in the middle & exiting the turn. Try 25' caster blocks with 1' to 2' camber, & 0' toe in. Add about 3/4 oz to the front. Lay down the shocks on the tower, & stay out on the arm. The 25' blocks work better on a tight track, but give up just a little stability in the rough. Try it, works for me. ;)

[Snoozy]

I am on a tight budget, so this servo fit my needs. I was running a 9304 which was .23 and 69.6 oz/in So this was a huge step up for me. I am really liking the speed. I don't like twitchy cars, I have a friend with a 94257 and I can't drive it at all :rolleyes: anyways, we'll see how this one holds up.

Mr. Mike is cool, he now gives me a 10% discount on everything, its awesome.

[Turboduck01]

snoozy, you can notice that much of a difference with your new servo? What kind was it again, i'm too lazy to go back :) I was thinkin of getting a new one, since i'm still using the standard servo :p But hey, for my b-day, i got progressive shock resevoirs all around : ) Can you say sweet... I should be able to test em out sunday? Or the sunday after, I'll let this thread know how they are : ) Definitely will add a cool factor : )

[Gokou]

Good present... I like my Progressive Piggybacks :D

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Snoozy, he gives you the discount when you spend $50 or more. There's a jump competition out at St. Charles Speedway in Destrehan if you wanted to go. Wish I could. It's for a 40 dollar gift certificate to UK Hobbies. I think entry is 6 or 8 bucks for non club members.

My friend is having a lot of trouble with hitec servos. They a nice warranty and stuff but he doesn't use it. First he started on the 605 for steering and throttle. Fried both. Borrowed hitec standard servos fried those too. Then he bought two 925's. One has fried so far. I try to help him save money and get him to send the servos back, but he won't. It's weird because this guy is keeps his truck in top shape and it's always clean. He babies it all the time. Anybody other than Railman had problems?

Storm, if you don't have a servo saver you're asking for trouble.

[ 05-30-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[Snoozy]

I don't know how this one will do, but as for Turboduck's question, YES I do notice a significant difference. I can turn much quicker, and also, I run dirt hawgz all around, so it takes a good servo to lug them around. I would highly reccommend that you invest in an awesome steering servo (.15 and 80+ is pretty good for GT) and if you have a strong throttle servo (.20 and 50+) you will be able to brake harder. I was using a standard servo (fried my other 9304 when my truck went swimming) for throttle, and when I moved my other 9304, I doubled my braking power!

[Gokou]

Good servos are by far one of the best upgrades you can do on ANY car. I drove around with standard servos for years and thought that the high-dollar servos were a waste of money. Then I drove a friend's RC-10T with an Airtronics 94157 (years ago) and in that one battery pack I realized how wrong I had been all those years. It's amazing how much better you can drive when you don't have to lead your slow servo. They also make controlling a sliding vehicle MUCH easier because you can make little corrections instantly.

I also love having a fast/strong servo for throttle duties. I can move from full throttle to full brake as fast as I can and the servo keeps up. I can go into turns hotter than I used to because the brakes no longer lag from a slow servo. A fast steering servo is more important in my opinion, but a good throttle servo should also be on everyone's upgrade list.

[atm92484]

For any of you guys looking for new steering servos don't forget about the Hitec HS-615MG. Its about $40 on Tower and has 110oz @ 4.8v. Its up around 140oz @ 6v. This is what I'm using and there is more than enough power to steer the truck.

[morfeeis]

i use the jr 4735 Ultra Speed Servo in front and rear.. they work great for me they give great stoping power(maybe that is what happen to my disk) i have an extra one just in case but have never had to use it.. i night use the extra one in the 1/8 i am going to get :D

[Gokou]

Unfortunately I think my 1/8 scale plans are on hold... I was planning to buy a Mugen XR near the end of June, but I think that the shifter kart has taken center stage in my toy collection for now :D

[Turboduck01]

What would be better, on www.towerhobbies.com (http://www.towerhobbies.com) they have two hitec servos with a different of $5. one is .15 sec/60 degree with 94oz whereas the other is .20 at 133oz, which would you say is better? these are both at 6v

[morfeeis]

me myself i would get the 133 ozer but i think you can never have to much power (but then again i did sell a 70mph rs4 cause it was to fast)

[TRXboy]

hey guys gess what i picked up for $15 today :D :D :D check it out, my N pede gets a good 8 feet of air, 30 feet of distance...cant wait to try the GT on it, might prop it up tho...

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1379414&a=10294727&p=49495907&Sequence=0

[Jace2000]

TRXBoy..
OOoooh that looks like fun :D
How much did you pay for it?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

TurboDuck, I'd say that the faster one is better. The .20 one will be just like a stock servo in speed.

I envy you and your ramps TRXBoy. Where did ya get it? 15 bux is awesome.

[TRXboy]

hehe target.... here is a better shot at its size....

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1379414&a=10294727&p=49498235&Sequence=0

its that big to my T-maxx.now think of a GT going off of it....

[Snoozy]

COOL!

What were you doing at target?

[Snoozy]

What are some very cool mods that I can do to my truck for under $20? I basically have a factory team truck. (was a sport! missing front team shock bodies, graphite shock towers and rubber sealed bearings, I have dynamite red seals)

[NickBurns]

Where did you get that jump, it looks awsome. Any place online I can order one?

Ian

[morfeeis]

he got it at target if i read that right

someone will be getting new arms soon :D

[goblue]

Hey TRXBOY...Is that a SPORTTRAC I see in the background?

[TRXboy]

NO!!! Explorer sport 01 thank you very much :cool:

[Gokou]

Good for you TRXboy... Because if you got the half SUV/half pickup abomination, I'd have to slap you silly :D

[illbreakit]

DITTO :eek: ;) :cool: :rolleyes: :p

[TRXboy]

:cool: :cool: :cool:

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Cool when did ya get the Explorer? I really like te '02's.

Check out what I just got on ebay.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1697457&a=13036365&p=49531293&Sequence=0&res=high
I figured that since I was buying another GT, I needed either a cheap AM or a kinda nice FM from ebay. I got it for 100 bux. comes as an entire system. MY TRUCK RUNS AGAIN...

A month and a half is too long without getting to race. I was goin phsyco.

Is $200 a good price for an FTGT w/a Picco? The engine only has 2 gallons through it.

This forum is way too helpful. Nobody is breaking anything or has any problems! We still kept the thread going though, and that's cool.

[ 05-31-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[GTboy]

GT Man:

When you buy a vehicle 2nd hand its usually smart to treat the engine as a paper weight. If the engine does work well then you have a bonus on your deal. Thats how I look at unless you know for sure that the engine has been looked after. I've seen to many engines that were supposed to be in great shape according to the owners but in reality they were not. I've gotten to the point that I trust my engine rebuilding and tuning much more than others ( not to diss anyone) just because you really know what you have as an engine when done by yourself.

:)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Well, I'm not buying the truck off ebay. It's my best friend's GT and I was with him most of the time he ran his truck or tuned it, so I know the engine is fine.

[stormperson]

just a quick question:

i am breaking in the new piston and sleeve (duratrax one) on my os cvx. it only has restance only at the top maybe 6/7 of the whole sleeve. is this normal?

also just a quick heads up, there is currently a discussion going on in i think the website forum about doing something to this thread seeing how it has started to go offtrack.

i would suggest that everyone goesover there and voices their opinion to keep this thread alive! :D

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Yeah that's normal Storm. Keep us all posted on you like it.

The only reason we get off track is because there's so many helpful people on this thread that we've cured like all the problems that a GT could have. All you have to do is look through some of the pages, and you can find a fix what broke on your truck. This thread should be kept up as a reference for all GT owners to go to. I'd like so say thanks for everyone that told me how to fix stuff with my truck and all.

[ 05-31-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[Gokou]

Remember Storm, and a piston and sleeve (especially a chrome sleeve) needs heat to break in. Try to keep the engine at or above 175F for break in; any lower and you're just wearing away at the piston because the sleeve hasn't expanded yet.

Let us know how that duratrax p/s works out, because I am considering freshening my .12 CV Hyper up to keep as a good backup motor. Right now it's somewhat worn-- it still works great, but not as good as it used to... It has about 4.5 gallons through it at the moment.

About the thread: I think that every now and then you need a little off-topic jaunt just to keep things exciting :D

[ 05-31-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[TRXboy]

RC10GT and CV-R where built for each other :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[Turboduck01]

lol. for some reason, i believe that :)

[morfeeis]

i think that some people get mad cause the gt is the biggest thread here it is talked about even on other webpage's

i wish that all the r/c cars had a page like this so we dont get 3 and 4 thread asking the same thing over and over again

when i first got my gt i was going to ask a question by the time i got to the last page i had already got my answer and enough tips to keep me happy for a long time

================================================== ==========
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you with experience. Time is the best teacher; unfortunately it kills all its students. My opinions may have changed, but not the fact that I am right.

[Jace2000]

Guys...

About the thread : I hoped but never knew that this forum would get so big and popular when I first started it. I recall discussing with SteveP about how we should keep this forum going. I also remember the earlier members of this forum voting to keep the pages going without chopping it up into baby GT forums. Anyway, I think we'll be safe as long as we stick to exchanging information about the GT. I agree that a bit of offtracking is healthy for the forum but there was a certain moment in this forum where it strayed away too far. I also don't appreciate others expressing negative opinions about our forum but it is very large and getting quite a bit of outside attention.
Just my opinion guys :D

Goku & Turboduck01..
I decided to get the progressive shock reservoirs since you said that they're worth giving them a try.
But where did you get them? I think Stormer is still on order and I'm not sure if ordering them direct from the manufacturer is a wise move.
Thanks in advance :)

[TRXboy]

The after math....

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1379414&a=10637478&p=49564880&Sequence=0

Broke rear shock tower, broken a arm mount, broke C hub, broken out drive, broken turnbuckle, 1 bent shock shaft, and a really scrached up chassis.....This is after we put the ramp on a higher angel...= a good 12 feet of air...

[Turboduck01]

Well, I got my Reseviors for my B day, but they were ordered from the Hobby Shop, Sure, it may cost a bit more for the resevoirs, but if the guy who runs the shop is as cool as mine, you won't mind, and he'll be able to find them : )
Oh and also, my dad e mailed Progressive asking for info and what not and never got a response?
:confused: Weird, but here's the webpage www.progressivesuspension.com (http://www.progressivesuspension.com) Enjoy

[ 05-31-2001: Message edited by: Turboduck01 ]

[stormperson]

thanks Gokou, i ran a tank of break in today, and i could hold my hand on the heatsink fine. i will lean it out a little next time (correct solution right?)

also i have been discussing this with my friend some, should i rev it to 1/2 throttle during break in, to keep the rpm's down, or should i keep a steady throttle?

thanks!

oh, and just a note about installing it, i had a really hard time actually getting the sleeve into the crankcase. i had to take out a hammer and really help it in there, i lubed it and everything, i padded it to keep from breakage. hopefully i got a bad one, and they are not all like this.

[Turboduck01]

I was bored so i decided to stare at my GT, i was wondering, what do you guys use to clean your trucks, I just use some cleaning solvent and a rag, but it doesnt really get "everything", do those sprays really work?

[morfeeis]

TRX like i said new arm hey did you have the rpm's or stock arm's? but at 12 feet i guess it really doesn't matter

i was just think about my shocks to and i miss the shocks i had on my NXT G-PLUS

for a while before i sold it i let my brother's put them on his gt and they worked great... i just dont like the gt shocks (that is why i bought a NXT in the first place) i have been thinking about doing this to my gt cause i love the way those shocks did on my brothers gt... i wanted to know have any of you tried any other shocks besides piggy backs and the norm gt shocks

[atm92484]

TRX, you abuse your trucks its amazing that truck just hasn't fallen apart (well... :D ) With that jump where was it in Target? I want to try one.

As for those people wanted to break this forum up, they are just jealous the GT is so popular.

[ 05-31-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[TRXboy]

Nah those are stock, you would be surprised how strong stockers are....falling apart...hehe my GT was sapost to be going into race mode...that lasted long :lol, as for me, anybody know how to make the GT more responsive in the air, the ramp im using sticks the nose up a little to high and well...thats not good(Rear shock tower broke on a 12 foot free fall to the ground...)

[loki]

Hey Turboduck, I use Simple Green to clean the truck. Does a great job, and it's a lot easier on your concience than solvent when you're pouring it down the drain. Of course the oil and nitro residue can't be good either...

Say, just thought I'd mention, I posted a message in the General Forum calling for BETA testers on a new RC Photo site that I'm building. If you're looking for a place to post your pics online, have a look at http://www.clikshow.com/rc, (http://www.clikshow.com/rc) and if you're brave, upload an image or two :)

TRXBoy, excellent work with the ramp. Twelve feet of air?!? What'd you land on, and was it a clean landing or did you land butter-side down? Welp, now I've got an excuse to go to Target...

Loki

[ 05-31-2001: Message edited by: loki ]

[TRXboy]

it was a base ball feild, i mad the ramp go up onto the pichers mound for that little extralip, the first cuple of times i did to try it out i was landing nicely, then when the O.S CV-R started showing its true calors and i started going at it i was getting a good 12, i think i did it 4 times at Top speed, landed it 3 times, last jump was a free fall from 12 feet strait onto the rear shock tower, chassis.....i need a new one!

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Well, it doesn't look like I'll be buying my friend's GT. His parents are poo poo in his words. If anyone has a T-Maxx, havem you tried mounting the receiver box onto your GT? I saw a Dynamite aluminum one for the T, and it would look so sweet in the GT.

Nick, does the Picco pipe help on all engines? I'm looking for an alternative to the stock AE pipe, and the Picco looks nice. I dunno how to make the truck more responsive in the air. Wouldn't you think that if got so out of shape that it did a free fall to the ground, that it would just be unsavable? :p