Associated RC10GT Forum v1.0

[Jace2000]

Let's keep this Thread alive!!
Go Go GO~~!!!

[TRXboy]

Sweet, anybody know of a bell crank system that would work better then the stock?and does it make much of a diff?

[pp13b]

what body shell`s do all u use on the gt`s..?

[Gokou]

TRX - get the MIP ball bearing steering. It was made for the old tub chassis, but it'll work. Just put a washer under each of the aluminum posts. Don't forget to run a servo saver though =) After you change, you don't have to worry about the spring post on the stock setup loosening by itself =)

[Bodido]

Hey Gokou. Question about the MIP steering:
Does the servo saver bolt rely on the very tiny threads in the chassis?
I ask because I of course stripped those tiny threads about two tanks after buying the FT chassis. ERRRR http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/frown.gif Luckily, there were enough threads exposed on the servo saver bolt to thread a nut on top(thereby sandwhiching the chassis).
Do you think I can run that MIP steering set-up without replacing my chassis.

[Zedstr]

mad at my gt... it decided to go on a suicide run under the wheel of a truck in the parking lot. not much broke except the engine adapters and i think my engine too. o well, she'll go back in the corner for now to consider her bad ways.. Zed

[tundra]

Just sending this to the top. This thread has been dead for a bit http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/frown.gif

[Gokou]

You'll be fine. The MIP steering uses 4-40 screws and doesn't thread into the chassis. You run the screws up from the bottom, then put aluminum sleeves over the screws, then slide the bellcranks over the sleeves. You then put nuts on the exposed portion of the screw and it cinches down against the sleeve. It looks a little odd having the 4-40 screw head in the chassis (which is drilled and countersunk for an 8-32 head) but it works, and I haven't had a problem with the posts coming loose and shifting around. Make sure you get a kimbrough servo saver though if you get the MIP steering...

I just picked up an MIP lightweight flywheel today; I hope it doesn't rain tomorrow. Just finished stripping the purple anodizing and polishing it up. I want to test tomorrow, not spin donuts in the rain! =)

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 02-17-2001).]

[Bodido]

Thanks Gokou. That's a relief. I was worried it was gonna be a $60 mod (with chassis replacement) .

The weather here is lousy now. I don't feel so bad since I'm waiting on parts http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/wink.gif I've been having some nasty wrecks lately. But hopefully this round of upgrades should help my durability a bunch:
Ti turnbuckles and hinge pins
RPM rod-ends
RPM rear carriers with 1/4x1/2 bearings
MIP Shiny CVD's
MIP super diff rebuild
MIP thrust rebuild
MIP clutch (this was installed this morning, not tested)
And I'm a little mad at myself because I meant to order the OFNA linkage. But I forgot.

[Bodido]

Anyone else running an OS 12 CV-R? What tuned pipes are you using? I just have the Associated pipe. Wondering how some of the others compare.

[Gokou]

Bodido, I don't know what pipes work good with the CV-R, but it's probably a good bet to say the associated pipe is probably one of the top picks for that engine, especially for off-road. Hopefully others will have some suggestions, but it's pretty hard to find an engine that the associated pipe doesn't work great on. You might want to try the new pipe that comes with the Losi XXXNT; they seem to have a ton of punch out of the corners.

Ran a half gallon through the good ol' MT-12 in my GT today... it's amazing what a difference shaving a few grams off the flywheel can make; I was only running the engine at 175 degrees and still had problems keeping the front wheels on the ground. If you've got the money, I suggest you get the MIP lightweight flywheel! A *big* difference in acceleration. It didn't hurt my idle any either. I was expecting the idle would be a little more inconsistent with the lighter flywheel, but it wasn't. I just had to lower it a bit.

Sold my spare 94357 servo today at the track, so now I have $100 in my pocket. I think I might have to finally get those progressive shock reservoirs =)

[atm92484]

I'm running a CV-R with the AE pipe and manifold. It seems to run well. All I know is I was outrunning a NMT at 1/2 throttle.

[ 08-10-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[Walter]

Gokou,
Is the MIP light flywheel alot lighter than the stock AE non pull unit? I'm running a Picco .12, how's it compare to the MT.12?

[JP]

Prolly THE best pipe and header combo you can buy, is the Picco Pro pipe, or rossi ?? pipe (forgot name, like trinity). With the MIP manifold made for what you got (off road, on-road, PS, no PS. Im going to this next because Steve said it was the best.

Anyone know some cool hop-ups for the GT that will make it stronger? I dont want aluminum, my car is heavy enough (feather to my E-Maxx though). I always break small stuff like ball cups, and I am getting that Ofna blue linkage kit, looks cool, and my brakes are SHOT. I never break A-Arms, but I am having a hella time with these body mounts. I upgraded to the RPM ones and it made it worse, and the body doesnt fit. They still broke, and I think all the complaint letters I sent is really not making him like me. He replies, and hes a nice guy, but I lost $60 because of his product ($20 payout for A-main, plus his product, plus a body, not to mention the paint). Ooh, I really like him now! he told me to send them in, but I threw them out because they were trash (in both ways). Thanks for any suggestions, and reply soon because my B-Day is on the 24th!

[JP]

I think im gunna quit being hardcore into R/'C, I needed 3 wallets because it burned a hole through them all! ok ok, but this is really killing me, and this airbrush stuff is too. Im gunna spend all my money on an airbrush and compressor and have no money to fix my GT OR E-Maxx. Anyway...this body mount thing it killing me, and aluminum one will be worse, more money to break it. Any hop ups for ball links so they dont pop off?

[pp13b]

jp,what engine are u using in your gt..???

Walter,i have a super light fly wheel and it works perfect(2mm bigger than the gt`s clutch bell)> it idles good ,exelent take off power

[Crandall]

JP, I have no idea what you are doing to break the RPM mounts. Their stuff is about the best upgrades you can do for the plastic stuff on the GT. They also make some great ball cups for the GT. You may also need to replace the balls if you keep poping them off.

As far as Pipes, with my Trinity as well as my MT12, I ran an O'donnell Power Pipe. It worked great. The price was very reasonable also. I have not tried the new Picco pipe, or the Nova, but I like the O'donnell for use with the high power .12s.
Charles

[pp13b]

JP,areu trying to break a record for the longest gt/breaking parts jump..?>lol

[JP]

I use a O.S. CV-R and a Picco .15 side exhaust.

I broke everything but my chassis and engine on my GT. and I only get 8 feet high average with a record of 13 feet.

RPM quality is pretty bad in my opinion, they dont fit new GTs, and when you recut the holes in your body to make them fit, you find out that they broke again. I havent had 1 good experience with RPM, yet I still have some sticker on my car...what can I say, the green looked good on my body.

BTW ill post pics of my car if someone tells me how to get them on here from my hard drive.

[tundra]

Hey Guys,

I just successfully installed a receiver box on my GT! I used a Mugen MBX-4R box, and a very sharp exacto knife to trim off the unwanted material from the ends. It fit in there great (with a little effort though http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif ) I'll post some pics as soon as I get my film developed.

JP: All you have to do is goto photopoint.com and get an account. Then put some pics into your account, click on the pic you want to post and copy the url. Then post it by typing "url"[\img] Easy as pie [img]http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[TRXboy]

JP-dont know what to tell you, if you are breaking rpm's stuf then your just about screwed...

[Gokou]

JP: what RPM parts specifically don't fit your truck? I personally have almost all their GT parts. Their rear arm mounts do move the arms forward a bit, so you have to shave the chassis a bit, but that really isn't a problem IMO. Personally, I've had nothing but great luck with RPM. On my older RC-10 team car I have almost every RPM part made for it short of their nylon chassis. Actually, I had that, I just warped it when I tried to dye it black. Oops! Last year I dusted the sucker off and was blasting around my driveway (7 cells with 12 turn quad) and I caught the back wheel on a planter box. It tore the aluminum chassis in half at the rear bulkhead. It broke the graphite tranny brace, broke both titanium hinge pins, the titanium turnbuckle, and tore all the screws out of the chassis. The RPM carrier, a-arm, and a-arm mount were perfect.

Walter: the MIP flywheel isn't that much lighter than the associated flywheel based on my highly scientific "pick them both up and move your hands up and down" test (I wish I had a gram scale so I could have weighed them). It did make a pretty noticable difference in acceleration.

And tundra, how did the 4RR box work? That's part number C0351 if I remember. Here is the pics in RCCA that gave me the idea to put the Mugen box in my GT...

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/gt_pics/rec_box.jpg

Is that the same box you used Tundra? I was told the box in that pic is out of the older Athlete, part number C0302, which I can't find anywhere. I'd like to see pics of your MBX-4RR box so I can decide if I like it or not...

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 02-19-2001).]

[pp13b]

gee arnt i lucky, my lhs has the" old" mugen athelete parts,even some reciver boxes...
http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[TRXboy]

Busy typing are we gokou??LOL

[tundra]

Gokou,

Yep, I used the CO351 box. This is what I did to get it working:
1) cut off all of the plastic tabs on the ends of the box with an exacto knife. (this is no big deal)
2) Then I set the box on the chassis over the 2 holes previously used to bolt down the receiver bracket. I marked where I wanted the screws to go into the box, and then drilled some small tapping holes in the bottom of it.
3) I set the box on the chassis, and screwed it in.

It looks great! There are no ugly wires everywhere, and this will provide good protection for the receiver. It WILL work with this box, you just need a little effort but it's defanately worth it.

[Gokou]

Ok, here's a mission for you guys... find me a dealer online where I can order the progressive shock reservoirs! Stormer lists them for $61.95 for a set of 4 (good price) but they're out of stock. You've got to help me find these before I blow my money on something for my other hobby (namely a red-dot scope for my pistol)...

[kerc]

Got my RC10GT Sport this weekend. Spend said weekend building it (was up on Sunday 'til 4AM http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif). Break-in and running on Monday.

I'm in LOVE with this truck!

What a sweet machine this is. Handling is great, very fast, great acceleration. Had a great day yesterday, and can't wait 'til the weekend to burn some more nitro.

http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif RC10GTs kick butt.

[pp13b]

see how many times do i have to say rc10gt`s rule...... http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[Rory Price]

RC 10 GT Kick's so much A$$ It's the great'st I love it so much

[tundra]

Hey fellas,

I am wondering what the number of spur gear/clutch bell teeth will do in different environments... For reference they will be going on a Rossi CX-12 (RC10GT). Right now I have a 65t spur with a 15t clutch bell. I realize that if you up the # of teeth on the clutchbell your will get more top end and less low end, but how big of a clutch bell is too big for these motors? I'll be running on a twisty offroad track as well as onraod a bit too so I'm looking for both ends of the spectrum. Does anyone have any recoomendations? Also, what is everyone else using these days on their rides? Thanks for any help http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[pp13b]

tundra,i have a RB12 in my gt.
i use a 18t pinion/66 spur,but i also have a 16t and a 17t pinions , with 64t and 62t spurs..(just as spares)

[ilovemygt]

i need help i have a rc10gt rtr that i put a .12 os cvx and yesterday i got a xtm starter box but the starterbox wont turn over the engine do i need to put the non pullstart motor mount and nonps flywheel in stead off all the pull start stuff? do i need to make the motor non ps? please help!

[atm92484]

Love you shouldn't have to do that. Those are only to lower the center of gravity since there isn't a recoil unit that has to clear the chassis.

I had the exact same problem with my GT when I first got a starter box. First make sure the wheel is lined up with the flywheel and its not hitting the chassis. If it does hit the chassis then that is why the engine won't turn over. Make sure your batteries are charged also. Another thing that I found to help is loosening the glow plug about 1/4 of a turn so there is less compression. Then once then engine starts tighten it back up.

[tundra]

Top!! Let's keep this thread going!

[RTRaeGT]

I hope this thread blossoms out other owners should do the same in order to help out people like me for specific kits!although most probleams are universal.........KEEP IT UP!

[RTRaeGT]

Go,Go,Go..........lol

[Bodido]

I'm sure someone can help me with this. I ordered some shiny cvd's, and a bunch of other cool goodies as well. Since I'm lazy, I'll just post a copy of my email to MIP http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/wink.gif

I ordered a set of Shiny CVD's from Tower for my rc10gt . They were part # 1196. Unfortunately, they don't seem to fit. The 1/4" axles fit fine, as expected, but the bones are too large to fit into the outdrives. The diameter of the ball (about 5/16") is much larger than the original universals. If assembled, it looks as though the CVD's would be about a 1/4" longer as well. I've looked at Associated's catalogs thinking they might have updated the outdrives on newer GT's. I have the tub team kit. But, the part numbers for the new kit's outdrives are the same. I'm confused.
Is it possible that bones for another kit could have ended up in the wrong bag (1196) ? The bones I recieved are about 5/16" in diameter on the bone end ( not counting the pins ), and 3 11/16" in length. I don't have calipers, but that's pretty close. Any ideas you may have I'd appreciate. Been out of commission for weeks now.

Chad

[tundra]

Okay I finally got some pics of the Mugen receiver box I retrofitted onto my GT. Check it out Gokou (he also wanted to do this) and others and see if it's for you http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
They're a bit dark, sorry bout that.

I still have to get my wires and switch tied down....
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1558067&a=11826020&p=42254065&Sequence=0&res=high

These pics were taking forever to load for some reason, so here's the link to my album http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1558067&a=11826020



[This message has been edited by tundra (edited 02-27-2001).]

[RTRaeGT]

That's an awsome set-up!!!

[mexican_speed]

Hey has anybody been here www.rc10gthobby.com (http://www.rc10gthobby.com) , they have some pretty cool pics. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/cool.gif

[Jace2000]

Originally posted by mexican_speed:
Hey has anybody been here www.rc10gthobby.com (http://www.rc10gthobby.com) , they have some pretty cool pics. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/cool.gif

Has anyone tried using this brake system?

Tundra...
Do you have the part number for that Mugen box? Also, where did you get it?

Thanks in advance...

[Gokou]

That Mugen box worked great! Now I don't have to worry about wasting my $11. =) Thanks, Tundra!

Jace, it's Part number C0351, the box for the MBX/4/RR/XR.


[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 02-28-2001).]

[tundra]

Jace: Yep, that's the one (C0351). I got it at Tower Hobbies.... man I should be a platinum customer or someting from all the business I've given them http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

Gokou: Yea, I love it! Every time I take it to the track I get asked multiple times what box it is and how I did it... I have a feeling I just started a little trend at my local track, hehe http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

Oh and I really want to buy that Crescenzi (sp?) braking system. Does anyone know if you have to buy it straight from their website? Becasue it seems to be partially down at the moment.. Well anyways, I hate the brakes on my GT. I fully engage the disc and the wheels still turn, I can't even lock them up if I wanted to!! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/mad.gif

Does anyone else have this problem?



[This message has been edited by tundra (edited 03-01-2001).]

[Gokou]

Why would you want to ditch the stock brake for a drum brake? Just wondering...

[Gokou]

You probably need a stronger servo if you can't lock the rear wheels. FYI, it takes more power for a drum brake to produce the same stopping effect as a disc brake, so chances are your brake weakness would be worse if you switched to that drum setup.

[tundra]

Originally posted by Gokou:
You probably need a stronger servo if you can't lock the rear wheels. FYI, it takes more power for a drum brake to produce the same stopping effect as a disc brake, so chances are your brake weakness would be worse if you switched to that drum setup.

Well, I don't think it's the servo because when I pull the brake with my hand and try to move the truck it does the same thing... Plus the servo I'm using has 65 ounce/in of torque (i think thats the units). I think I'm going to ruff up the areas that contact each other with some sand paper and see if that does the trick.

[Gokou]

Very odd. I have no problem locking up the rear wheels on my truck, even with foams on prepared asphalt at top speed. Then again, the servo I'm using for braking has 125 oz/in torque (airtronics 94357)...

Maybe try a new brake disk? Hmmmmm.... I really don't know without seeing the truck.

[mexican_speed]

Well, I saw the brake part a bit, but I didn't pay much attention to that part. I was looking at all the pics and thought maybe I'll share'em here. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/cool.gif

[Jace2000]

I thought this thread was removed...
Instead they made a new board for specific kits... how nice~ http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

Let's keep 'em going guys (and maybe girls)!

BTW..
Thanks for the info on the Mugen box.

[DummyTerminal]

Receiver is not working. CH.2 dont work very well and i have tryed to switch servos and the problem only follows ch2 not the servo. Is there a receiver that is cheap but will still work with the new RTR kits radio????

[Grant Tokumi]

Try #3. I used to use setting #1 for 4 years. The engine would rev up before the clutch grabs the clutchbell. I recently bought a new 4in1 clutch and it seemed to be slipping a bit too much to me. Under advice from Gokou, I tried setting #3 and it seems to work better, so I use that setting now.

BTW, I asked in another thread, but no one answered so I ask again here. When I push my truck by the chassis to the ground, hold it there and full throttle, it doesn't take too much effort to keep it still. The engine spins, but the clutchbell stays put. The slipper is not set too tight. It seems to me that the clutch is slipping too much. But I can't be sure because I didn't try this before I got this new clutch. I would expect to see the slipper slip, or the tires spinout when I do this. Can anyone confirm that this is normal or not normal? I've run the clutch for ..... over 20 tanks now, around 3/4 of a gallon already. Its on setting #3, blue thunder 20% fuel, CVR engine.

[Jace2000]

Ok guys...

I'm gonna try to keep this thread at 3 pages maximum.
I'll start a new one as soon as we hit 4 pages.

[SteveP]

Here's a peak at the next project for the Nitro Mag....

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/4str1.jpg

[rc10gt_bb]

Oh my gosh! That is so awsome! A four-stroke! Look at the cluch bell and spur gear, there nearly the same size! Are you trying to break the sound barrier or something!

[RTRaeGT]

That looks totally sinister!Evil even!!!!awsome!

[TeamCarnage]

Steve--
I think you guys a small linkage problem!!
Be Creative.. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[TRXboy]

DANNNNNNNNNG thats a bin cluch bell, dude thats insain...

[RTRaeGT]

anybody got pics of their GT's?

[SteveP]

TC - linkage is the easy part - it's hard to see from the angle shown, but there's a direct line of sight from the servo to the carb.

The gear ratio (it's yet to be determined if the gears I selected are going to be ideal) needs to be much lower (higher gearing) to compensate for the four-stroke engine. The power and torque of the engine come at a much lower RPM than that of a two stroke engine. Buy my best estimation, the four-stroke is developing peak power around 13,000 rpm, instead of the 23 to 26K of a two stroke. The reduction in ratio takes away some of the power, but the four stroke has so much more torque than the two-stroke, I'm guess it will run similarly. In fact, the super smooth power curve of the four-stroke might make it much easier to drive.

I have to make a new intake manifold because the one pictured here won't clear the body.

[RTRaeGT]

What is the recommendation for the best all around set up on the MIP 4-n-1 clutch????I don't race and have had some trouble during idle?

[pp13b]

hmm ,steve ,looks cool ,but we need more info eg: diff gears, things like that..???

[Gokou]

Steve, you stole my idea! =)

Last week I borrowed a OS .26 4 stroke from a buddy with a SuperTen and I spent all day sitting in front of a unix workstation and modeling a new intake manifold in i~deas that would clear the body. Now that we have a new CNC mill and CNC lathe at school, all I need to do is do a little work on SurfCam and Voila! Trick parts! Unfortunately I had the same problem as you... I checked my dimensions on the model and realized it would still hit the body. Doh! Revision B I suppose...

You beat me to it though... congrats! I've had the notion of tossing a 4-stroke in my GT for about 3 months now... I guess now I'll see how your GT pans out before I tie up the CNC machines... =)

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 03-03-2001).]

[RTRaeGT]

What are everyones thoughts on the Associated .15?

[RTRaeGT]

What tires do you all use for all purpose use?

[RTRaeGT]

Any siggetions would be appreciated?

[sprinter59]

you can use Proline Bow Ties in the rear and Edges up front..that should work for beating around...The AE(thunder tiger) .15 is an okay motor..a New Dynamite .12 is better and cost less

[TRXboy]

for bashing around i wouldent use bow ties and edges, they dont last long(trust me) i like dirt works personaly.

[RTRaeGT]

Whay do you all think is the most awsome looking high quality body to put on a GT who makes it?

[TRXboy]

Pro-line to me makes the most durable body's(most last me 2 months tops ether way tho) and they have chocies for the Gt from a Chevy to a ford to a dodge.

[RTRaeGT]

Pro-line?eh'?Kewl........I think I'll get one from them thanks

[JP]

RTR - W.S. Deans SS RC10GT body...sweeeet, getting one soon.

Also like the Pro-Line Chevy Silverado.

[tundra]

I like the Andy's Toyota Tundra body too, nice curves and pretty thick.. (wait that doesn't sound right....)

[RTRaeGT]

LOL Tundra I was talkin' about R/C TRUCKS LOL

[tundra]

hehehe http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/tongue.gif

[nitrogt15]

a rc10gt with a four stroke man thats way too crazy and cool http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif


anyways here is my gt
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1318095&a=9791880&p=33007453

[Jace2000]

NitroGt...

I noticed that you placed your receiver battery in the front of the car.
Did you do that to increase your GT's steering response?

[Jace2000]

Whoop~

We hit page 4.
Time to move on guys.

[RTRaeGT]

I thought I read somewhere that we did'nt have to make a new thread?

[nitrogt15]

i put the receiver battery in the front cause of that(steering)...and also transfer some weight balasnce i guess in the front...
works ok...so far...:: http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif
i read also we could keep the thread going so we dont need to start another...

http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[Jace2000]

Guys...

It seems that we won't need to start a new thread every now and then. Let's stick to this one keep it going.

I will kindly ask SteveP to move all the posts in the forum V4.0 to this one and also to change the forum title to "Team Associated RC10GT Forum".

Thanks for all your response

[RTRaeGT]

ummmmmmmm ok

[RTRaeGT]

What are the best bearings?

[rc10gt_bb]

I like boca. But I usualy use duratrax because I'm broke!

[RTRaeGT]

cool thanks alot I was gonna use the Duratrax ones too but if there are better ones out there I want to use those!!!!!I can order almost anything from my IHS.....thanks again

[Gokou]

I'll second the boca recommendation. I have a set of their ultra-seals in my RC-10 Team car that are 8 years old, and they are still pefectly smooth. Great bearings! I think I'm going to pick up some of their ceramic bearings for my engines... =)

[RTRaeGT]

anyone wanna try this one I have an RTR today my spur gear bit into my fuel tubing later in the day I ended up stripping the spur gear,so I replaced the spur gear and all the original fuel tubing(keep in mind i have only had this truck for like a month and only ran it about five days)anyhow my truck won't start now?I think the carb is the culprit as I have taken the fuel line off at the carb and I have flow there but it dosent seem to be making it into the carb?what do I do?HELP!!!!!

[RTRaeGT]

still nothing?

[Jace2000]

RTRaeGT

There's a way to check for sure if the fuel is not reaching the carb.
1st, take out your glowplug and open the carb all the way. After that, place a cloth over the engine head and pull the starter cord really fast several times. If the cloth is wet with fuel, it means that the fuel is reaching the engine through the carb.

If this turns out to be the problem, then you should be able to solve it by replacing the glowplug with a new one.

[Brent F]

I got one for you guys I just rebuilt the shocks w/ new seals. I take the truck out and run it the right rear is completely empty so I take it apart and find the clip that holds the seals in is loose so I press the seals back in and fill it up well I went out yesterday and the same thing happened. So I'm thinkin either the shaft is bent or the body is deformed what do you guys think?

[TRXboy]

Brent, first check to see if anything is deformed, but what i like to do is use the tool(that white one) and put every thing but the last clip in, then with a philips head screw driver, push the clip down, makes it stay much better.

[GoBlue]

I saw in R/C CAR that TA has listened to its drivers and has developed a new gas tank that is flipped so that re-fueling will be easier. Check it out....Availibility N/A

[Jace2000]

GoBlue...

You can achieve the same thing just by drilling new holes on the chassis and flipping your existing fuel tank.

[Gokou]

That creates a problem Jace... the fuel pickup is at the rear of the tank. Flip it around and the pickup is at the front, and the engine often starves on acceleration when all the fuel sloshes to the rear of the tank...

I've seen one of the new gas tanks on an RTR, and the only difference was that the pressure tap is now in the lid for less fuel foaming. Personally, I like the cap where it is now, near the engine. Back there you're more likely to splash fuel on the engine. With the cap up front you're more likely to splash on your receiver and steering servo. That's bad.

[GoBlue]

Jace....The whole point is that you do NOT have to drill holes and the the fuel pick up remain in the same place....

[Jace2000]

Aha...
I get it http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

[Brent F]

Thanks TRX I'll try that before I go and spend money on new rear shocks Thanks.

[cracknee]

how well does that gt jump with the battery in frint like that?

[TRXboy]

Anybody know how to stop the rear wheels from wobbling, i got new axels and BB's to see if that helped, and tightened dow the wheel nuts like all heck, kind scarie, in the air it makes a thumping nosie.

[Calabash50]

Some of your guys were talking about bodies. This one is by Atomik and can be found on Tower's website. The whole body is pre-cut and painted. I like the forum and all the info shared, I wanted to add to the link.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1156628&a=11890249&p=42626328&Sequence=0&res=high

[Jace2000]

Calabash50

I love that body http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
Yepp... that's my next body. How much was it?
WAIT! Are those foam tires in the rear?

TRXboy...
Since you replaced the axle and the BB I suggest checking the wheel itself and make sure that the tires are glued on the wheels properly.
Sometimes the whole wheel can wobble due to improperly glued tires. This can throw off your wheel's balance.

Just a suggestion http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[This message has been edited by Jace2000 (edited 03-14-2001).]

[TRXboy]

Thanks man, im going to have to replace th wheels anyway, my foam inserts are about as saportive as paper towels.

[rc10gt_bb]

I just ordered that Atomik body from tower the other day. I love it so much, except that someone pointed out that the roof scoop would probably act like a shovel in a crash. Oh well, but it looks cool!

[rc10gt_bb]

Oh! And Atomiks web page is www.atomikrc.com (http://www.atomikrc.com)

[Zedstr]

anyone use the crezenzi(sp) brake system?

[This message has been edited by Zedstr (edited 03-15-2001).]

[rc10gt_bb]

No, but i've herd of it. I don't realy like the idea of using cork. If it was some space-age material then I'd be all for it! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif (is "I'd" a word?) http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/redface.gif

[Bodido]

Well I'm back up and running after 4 weeks of down time.

A bad wreck, a burnt out starter box, a mishap with MIP putting the wrong bones in my shiny cvd kit, all finally resolved. By Tower , btw... NOT MIP. MIP never returned my numerous calls or emails http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/frown.gif Tower sent me a shipping label, has replacements on the way, and refunded my money to boot! Very cool.

Now I'm running better than ever. Lots of cool upgrades: Lunsford ti turnbuckles and hinge pins, RPM ends, hitec 925mg coreless steering servo, Robinson ti topshaft, Robinson aluminum diff gear, clutchbell, machined spur, and Pro-Line Dirt Paws all around ( awesome tire for grass and bashing ).

Lots of hassle at times for this hobby, but after two tanks tonight I was all smiles again. So worth it. Good to be back http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[rc10gt_bb]

It seems like I'm always broken down. But your right, when you do finaly get it to run for a few tanks its worth every penny and all that time.

[TRXboy]

Hmm anybody know if the stock hing pins are stronger then ti ones, i like the ti because they are much smoother but i keep on snapping them..maby i should go back to steel, what do you guys think?

[atm92484]

If you keep breaking them then go back to steel. The steel are cheaper and they must be more durable because I haven't bent one yet.

[pp13b]

i havnt busted a stanard steel hing pin yet. what are u doing to brake the ti ones..?

[Bodido]

He's doing some ludicrous jumps http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif I've bent standard ones, so they ended up binding. The question is: Do the ti ones break before the steel would have bent?

[TRXboy]

LOL, i will tell you by tonight...Heheheheh(insert sinister grin here)

[TRXboy]

Well here was my day, 6 foot hill ok, then I brought in a 5 foot ramp, ok so now that's at least 10 feet of air...at least, now add a full thotel run onto that ramp...Ok, so after the 6 seconds of air time and the "Hollly Crap!" that came out of me and my friends mouth when I did it, then came the "THUMP!" of the Cassie slapping the ground. I must say this was the first time I ever shut the GT off so see if I broke anything it was that high in the air, well after me and my friends surprise he decided to try it with his NMT, Once again full thortel, and the ever so Scary "THUMP" when it landed,after about 3 tanks on constant "Lose sight of your truck in the air" Jumps we decided to go off the jump at the same time, me following him, well all went well, and we would have actually landed the jump if we didn't get, er, we didn't get on top of each other in the air, what was the result, NMT body was imploded, literally, it also had 4 broken body mounts, a broken a arm, and a broken front shock tower, as for the GT, I had a broke hing pin(So much for the steel ones!LOL) and broken front bulk head, and a nice gash in the chassie, all in all it was an extremely fun day, I HAVE to get pics of this, I estimate at least 20/25 feet high, it was INSANE! and a lot of fun if you ask me, Later guys.

[JP]

Here we go again with the 20 feet without breaking anything on landing...Im getting POed, as soon as spring break comes and I get some pictures, im just gunna have to break that to prove that 20 feet is a LOT higher than you think...

[rc10gt_bb]

20 feet is like as high as most one story roofs are (at least mine is). Now compare your car to your roof (if its one story). Now, did it realy go that high. I can imagine something like 10 feet but 20! You gotta be clownen dog! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/tongue.gif

[TRXboy]

Hey now, who ever said i never jumped off my roof.....

[Jace2000]

Here's my RC10GT...

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1442870&a=10825946&p=44412241
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1442870&a=10825946&p=44412236
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1442870&a=10825946&p=44412233

[Gokou]

Jace, that looks like it shares a lot of parts with my GT... =)

You really need to rework that exhaust manifold. It looks rather silly sticking that far out =) I hope someone comes out with a "close fit" header for rear exhaust engines that'll fit better in trucks. Also, that throttle linkage looks cheesy. I suggest you either trim the horn under the associated piece or even better install the Ofna throttle linkage. It'll look much better =)

[Jace2000]

Originally posted by Gokou:
Jace, that looks like it shares a lot of parts with my GT... =)

You really need to rework that exhaust manifold. It looks rather silly sticking that far out =) I hope someone comes out with a "close fit" header for rear exhaust engines that'll fit better in trucks. Also, that throttle linkage looks cheesy. I suggest you either trim the horn under the associated piece or even better install the Ofna throttle linkage. It'll look much better =)

Goku..
I don't even remember seeing a pic of your truck. Even if I did, I can't remember it now.
You really need to rework your attitude buddy http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif
I can appreciate your suggestions but not your wise-crack comments such as "cheesy".
Try a more polite vocabulary next time.


[This message has been edited by Jace2000 (edited 03-22-2001).]

[Gokou]

I didn't mean anything by it, I was just joking and making suggestions for what to improve. (Hence the smiley faces after each sentence) Overall your GT is very nice, I was just offering some tips for areas I think need improvement. Sorry if you took my joking the wrong way... Also, is the throttle linkage even connected to the carb in that second pic?

Here's the throttle linkage I use BTW... It works great (much smoother/less slop than the associated setup) and it looks much better. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBM06&P=7

Here's a pic of it installed in Tundra's Truck:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1558067&a=11826020&p=42254065&Sequence=0&res=high

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 03-22-2001).]

[rc10gt_bb]

Here we go again! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif Anyway, does anyone know a better fuel rought for an O.S. .12 CV.? I just outfitted it with a Dubro Final Filter and it is quite large. When I try to cram it between the carb and fuel tank outlet the fuel line kinks a little near the filter. Does anyone know a better fuel line rought I could use? Thanks. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[Jace2000]

Goku..

Sorry for the misunderstanding.
You're cool with me http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif
I'll be sure to try out your suggestions.

[Stewy]

rc10gt_bb, You can turn the fuel intake fitting on the fuel tank. I have seen the fuel line routed toward the outside of the truck and around the engine heatsink down to the cab. I realy don't care for that method because, to me, it seems like it heats the fuel before it gets to the carb. I would try to go around the fuel tank. Turn the fuel intake fitting away from the throttle servo side. Run the line up the side of the fuel tank, around the front, and then back to the carb. Use wire ties here and there to hold the line in place. This should work. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif BTW, I usualy put a dab of silicone around the fuel intake fitting where it meets the tank to try to prevent any airleakage.

Dave

[rc10gt_bb]

Why would i need to postiiton the fuel inlet differently when the tubing will come in from the same direction to the carb as the old set-up?

[rc10gt_bb]

well, I think i figured it out. I just kinda wrapped it around the fuel tank lid, than back to the carb. Was that what you were talking about?

[Stewy]

Yes, that's the general idea- to go around the fuel tank. It still may not be the ideal set up. I haven't run a filter on my GT for a long while. Seems like so far I've been lucky. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif
Just got done running for about 4 hours. Its great to be worn out sometimes http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

Dave

[RTRaeGT]

Originally posted by rc10gt_bb:
Here we go again! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif Anyway, does anyone know a better fuel rought for an O.S. .12 CV.? I just outfitted it with a Dubro Final Filter and it is quite large. When I try to cram it between the carb and fuel tank outlet the fuel line kinks a little near the filter. Does anyone know a better fuel line rought I could use? Thanks. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif


well I used the one I saw in Nitro mag the one with the GT shootout because the fuel line was awfuly close to my spur gear and it eventually made a hole in the line(what a mess) I have the RTR version of the GT but I think the set up is pretty universal I ran the fuel tubing around the fuel tank and between the carb and the heatsink(just where the heatsink and the crankcase meet) and under my throttle return spring I like this set-up way better IMHO I don't think that the fuel get's hot enough to be effected in this way but I could be wrong if something should happen though I might try using an old piece of spark plug wire to insulate it just at that section though,but like I said nothing has happened yet and i'm no racer so it's up to you really but it works for me! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[fasteddie911]

Hi, i am new to this forum, but have had my rc10gt for a couple years though, anyways, i had some questions. First, what onroad tires works the best beside foams? I was thinking of buying buggy wheel adapters and putting buggy on road slick from ace-hobbies.com. What do you htink? Also, i have the futaba magnum junior, and use the s3003 servo for the throttle, but it can not open my throttle all the way, Why? Does any one know any website tha shows you hoe to port nod an engine, i have a force prs 12 and instead of buying a cvr or rb or nova, i might mod it. Lastly, how well does slide carbs work on the rc10gt compared to rotary? Thanks!

[1320_GT]

I'm kind of in the same boat as you for the moment. I have had my GT for years (black tub chassis) and actually just bought another one from my LHS for $190...I mean, the kit is old, been sittin' there forever, but it did come with CVD's and full ball bearing (I talked'em down a shad bit). Anyhow, I was gonna put this one on-road, cuz' another LHS is doing some parking lot racing using these guys. I actually used to keep my first GT on-road (drag racing mainly) and I was using some Pro-Line Street Hawgs (I believe thats the correct name) and those tires hooked up great for what I was doing, but I do not know how they'd fair doing road racing. As for the slide carb Q...thats what I am going with (coupled to CV-R, that is). Many people don't suggest the use of a slide carb on off-road applications...but were not off-road anymore, now are we. As for the engine modding:
http://www.nascart.com/nitrom.htm
http://www.nitrorc.com/

Hope this helped out.

[samson]

I am an old RC-10 owner, did the nitro conversion to my electric RC-10 back in the 80's, currently am running a NMT, but just fell into some money and am prob. going to buy a GT kit, I need some help making decissions.

I already run a OS .15 CV hyper and will prob. move this engine over to the GT.

Which kit should I get, is the Factory kit worth it, or should I get the sport and upgrade with aftermarket stuff?

Also, before I start putting this thing together what do I need to replace right off the bat? I remember some threads earlier, but would like a little more info!

Thanks in advance for all the help you'll give me!!!!

BTW budget is about 600 for the car and hop-ups (electrics and engine alreadly taken care of!!!!!)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Samson, buy the FTGT. I got mine not too long ago, and love it. It has all the things that you are going to upgrade to and more. The blue aluminum screw kit is the only thing I don't like about it. (I took the head right off one of the screws when I was putting it in the servo mount! And they strip out a bit easier if you're using those bad allen wrenches that come with the kit.)

[TRXboy]

Get the FT you would not regret it, the only thing that i would recomend replacing is the body mounts to some RPM mount, but even that is not nessisary, and i would get a better allen key set, its worth it in the long run.

[n2o]

hey guys, this is pretty cool.. an all GT post.. Well I have only had my Factory Team GT for a week and a half.. Almost ran half a gallon of fuel through it. My setup: FT-GT with the Novarossi RS-12 rear exhaust engine (non PS) and JR-XR3 radio gear. I have added the MIP fly wheel and clutch. I recomend this fly wheel and cluth to anyone, it gives noticable punch out of the turns and the clutch will let the truck sit still and idle rather high when no brake at all.

One tip thoigh on this fly wheel, my engine has a little more punch than some I guess (1.135HP - 36,000RPM). But the pins in the fly wheel that hold the MIP clutch on will work lose and slide out towards the clutch bell and caus the clutch to lock up. To fix this problem I had to use a small amount of lock tight on these pins to keep them from working out and locking the clutch.

I just ordered the Mugen reciver box today, what other go-fast goodies should I get for my GT?

-n2o

[GTguy]

samson, go with the FTGT , as far as upgrades
go. Get the MIP 4-in-1 clutch and a titanium topshaft by Robinson or HG other than that the truck needs nothing.

[Jace2000]

n2o..

Welcome to our forum and I sincerely hope that you'll stay with us for a long time to come. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

Any information & questions concerning RC10GT is all welcomed here.

I was thinking about getting the MIP clutch wheel and thanks for your input on the subject.
Have you tried or heard of anyone using Robinson's light weight clutch wheel? I was thinking about getting it.

Some of options you might want to add to your truck are RPM front/rear arms and steel gears from Robinson Racing.

If you want to improve your shocks, you should definately get the two-stage pistons.
I strongly recommend the the two-stage pistons to anyone who is thinking of racing their trucks. It makes the truck much more stable and made a huge difference for me.

Does anyone here know MIP's web address?

[RC10 RaCeR]

Hey, what arew sime giid web sites where i ca nfind some cool and good hop ups for my GT??

[TRXboy]

www.MIPonline.com (http://www.MIPonline.com) And what "2 stage" Piston, please exsplane this cause i dont know what your talking about.

[Gokou]

Jace - I run the MIP lightweight flywheel in my GT (I also run an RB X-12). The flywheel does wonders for the acceleration of the truck once it's moving, but it kills a lot of the off the line punch, which in a way is good for offroad. It makes the truck a little easier to control through really slow parts of a loose track. On a higher traction track, you can really tell a lot of the off the line torque is gone with the lighter flywheel. But overall I prefer the lightweight flywheel over the standard.

[n2o]

thanks for the welcome Jace, I'm glad I found this forum because it's a little hard to get good information on RC stuff in my area of houston.

Gokou.. Maybe it's because my engine is so powerful to start with, but I didnt notice a los in low end punch. But if it does take some away, it has to be a good thing. I dtove this truck at the track with the stock fly wheel and clutch and at a little less than half throttle (still breaking in the engin) the truck would light it up and almost get away from you.. I think I will order some 2 stage pistons for my GT.. I had some a long time ago in my RC10T http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/wink.gif. But I didnt really know how to set them up that well back then..

thanks for the info.

-n2o

[fasteddie911]

hey Jace2000, are you the one with the slide carb RB x-12 posted in the HPI forum? ifo so, how is the slide carb on that enigne? is the low end needle hard to get at? how does the associated pipe perform with that engine?

[Jace2000]

TRXboy
Thanks for the web address http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif
The 2 stage pistons that I used are made by RPM. They're called 2 stage pistons because there are two piston plates to a single piston rod. In a compressed state, the two halves of the piston come together to meter the shock fluid through two holes. As the suspension decompresses, the two piston plates seperate to allow the fluid to flow through multiple holes. This returns the shocks to static position at higher rate.
The 2 stage pistons are more effective on rough-loose dirt tracks. My local track is just like that and I could see a notable difference in my truck's handling.
I noticed less bopping and wobbling during straight runs, improved cornering, and less flip overs during tight high-speed turns.
And they only cost something like $6.00 http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

Goku..
Thanks for your input on the flywheel.

fasteddie911..
Yep, that's my truck there at HPI.
The slide carb on my RB is working out great for me. I have to admit that the RB is a little over power for my GT http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif
The response of the slide carb is great and it's very easy to adjust. There's no problem getting to the low-end needle. The middle needle is slightly harder to get to than the low-needle but not impossible. I adjust both needles without any problems.
The associated pipe seems to work well with the RB. However, I'm thinking about switching over to a pipe made by Suzuki. Suzuku is a Japanese after market manufacturer and they have this really nice blue anodized torque pipe.

[TRXboy]

Thanks dude, Might have to pic me up some of those....but first alumnim shock caps http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[Jace2000]

Originally posted by TRXboy:
Thanks dude, Might have to pic me up some of those....but first alumnim shock caps http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

Do you mean the blue aluminum ones?
I got them but I don't use them because they seem to leak. Maybe they don't fit well with my blue aluminum shock bodies cause that's what I'm using now.
I'm not sure about the ones that came with the kit though.
I'm currently using the stock plastic ones.

I don't want to discourage you from getting them or anything. Just passing on some info http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[Gokou]

Why buy aluminum shock caps when you can blow $70 on the progressive suspension expansion reservoirs? They are aluminum, but they're much cooler than standard shock caps =)

I'm gonna get a set this weekend finally, and my GT will be about complete.

[GT burner]

Hey guys I'm new to the GT board. Anyone ever tried a 2 speed on their GT? Wasn't there a company that made a kit for a nitro dual sport? Since the GT and the DS are very similar, I would think maybe they would be compatable. Also, Anyone ever get an HPI 2 speed on their GT? I gotta get one of these things on my GT!

[fasteddie911]

thanks Jace!
I dont know gt burner, i have actually seen only one gt withta two speed and they had to be able to fit the 2 spur gears in between the arm mount and transmission using some skinny spur gears. But it could have been fake. Heck, i have been trying to figure out a way to do this 2 speed thing myself! But, remember, its only impossible until someone does it!

[Jace2000]

GTburner..

Welcome aboard man http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[n2o]

2 speed GT eh?? I'm sure if I had a GT to mess with I could get that working in a week or so.. I could draw up the design in CAD and make it pretty easy. But I dont want to jack up my GT doing it. Because you would have to cut and weld parts from the tramsmission and drill holes in the chassis.

Anyway, you could never get into second on a dirt track.. And thats what these trucks are made for. So why go with a 2 speed setup?

-n2o

[TRXboy]

Not to mention the fact that a 2 speed gear is as durable as glass when you start doing jumps.

[tundra]

Hey guys I posted this in the nitro forum but I figured to post it here too...

Well I was running my GT today when all of the sudden out of the blue I had no control over the radio at all! Needless to say some major damage was done http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/frown.gif So I take the receiver out and find that my battery is still charged and the connections are still good... http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/confused.gif If I pull out the battery lead then plug it back in I can hear the servos twitch yet when I operate the radio nothing happens... Does it sound like my receiver is dead? The crystals can't go bad can they? I'm boggled... HELP!

[This message has been edited by tundra (edited 03-29-2001).]

[TRXboy]

Looks like you might have fried the reciver, But try new battery's anyway, some times the batt's have enough juice just to move the servo for that second, then they are done.Did you run threw any puddels recently, and what do you have protectin your reciver?

-Nick

[Jace2000]

Originally posted by tundra:
Hey guys I posted this in the nitro forum but I figured to post it here too...

Well I was running my GT today when all of the sudden out of the blue I had no control over the radio at all! Needless to say some major damage was done http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/frown.gif So I take the receiver out and find that my battery is still charged and the connections are still good... http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/confused.gif If I pull out the battery lead then plug it back in I can hear the servos twitch yet when I operate the radio nothing happens... Does it sound like my receiver is dead? The crystals can't go bad can they? I'm boggled... HELP!

[This message has been edited by tundra (edited 03-29-2001).]

I suggest you check your crystals. Especially the ones connected to the receiver. Crystals are actually quite fragile and can be damaged even by dropping them on the ground if unlucky.
I usually suspect the crystals and get a new set. Besides, having a few extra bandwidth is quite useful at the track.

[tundra]

Thanks for the replies guys http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

TRX: I have a Mugen receiver box and inside of it I wrapped my receiver so it is completely stationary and fuel/water proof. Also I tried both of my batteries including a fully charged one with the same effect....

Jace: Man I sure hope it's the crystals! I have a Futaba 3PJS PCM radio and I was checking ont he reveiver and that thing costs like $90!! CRAP!!

Cross your fingers for me guys, I'm gonna go buy a new set of crystals tomorrow and see if that'll so the trick......

[LosiGTX]

Whats Everyone running in their GT? What type of engine and can you give some specs? What are the specs on the RB X.12?

[LosiGTX]

What engine is everone running? Whats the specs on the RB X 12?

[LosiGTX]

The new novarossi rs.12 sound like a good engine for rc10gt?

[Jace2000]

LosiGTX...
I used to run a Novarossi CX12 but now I run a RB X12. Both engines work fine for the GT but I prefer the RB X12 because it's a turbo engine.
However, the CX12 fits better because it's a side exhaust while the RB X12 is a rear exhaust. You'll have to used a RE manifold if you wanna use the RB and it tends to stick out a bit. But, it's not impossible to run.
If you want to know the exact spec of the RB engine, check out www.rbproducts.com (http://www.rbproducts.com)

Tundra..
Let us know result http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[JP]

I cant post what i was about to say, it would have definately gotten my kicked off this BB. If you want to hear what i would have replied to Gokou's post on page 6 when he said:

JP: what RPM parts specifically don't fit your truck? I personally have almost all their GT parts. Their rear arm mounts do move the arms forward a bit, so you have to shave the chassis a bit, but that really isn't a problem IMO. Personally, I've had nothing but great luck with RPM. On my older RC-10 team car I have almost every RPM part made for it short of their nylon chassis. Actually, I had that, I just warped it when I tried to dye it black. Oops! Last year I dusted the sucker off and was blasting around my driveway (7 cells with 12 turn quad) and I caught the back wheel on a planter box. It tore the aluminum chassis in half at the rear bulkhead. It broke the graphite tranny brace, broke both titanium hinge pins, the titanium turnbuckle, and tore all the screws out of the chassis. The RPM carrier, a-arm, and a-arm mount were perfect.

If you want to hear my responce, E-MAIL ME at SlotcarsnRC@aol.com (especially you Gokou!)

[GT burner]

wow I had a similar experience 2 days ago. I am using a Novak XXL FM. Well I didn't want to wait for my receiver protecter to come, so I must have gotten some water in the mix. After starting the engine, I set it down on the ground and it starts running away. I was so lucky though since it was barely going. It would have been gone had the throttle been opened any more. Tundra, check the connection at the plug that connects right to the receiver. Those are some pretty small wires and they could break. Possibly from a wreck or vibration. Also I made sure that my crystal was okay by using it in my B3. It checked okay. It's funny once I got the water out( only a couple of drops) it worked fine. Novak makes some excellent stuff!!

[GT burner]

I can't believe the abuse that my Novak receiver has taken. Besides getting wet, I once reversed the polarity of my batteries. I was eager to fire up my electronics for the first time. Well as soon as I threw the switch... oh the tell tale sound and smell of burning components. I fried $65 worth of servos. Still the receiver works. What do you guys think of the Traxxas fuel? I bought a quart and my engine (os czz) seems to run hotter than I think it should. The water really sizzles on the head. I have noticed there is hardly any sludge or unburnt fuel spewing out, even after tipping the pipe to let if run out. I do have my carb on the rich side too.

[Gokou]

JP-- wow, that's bringing back a post from the past. I think you can post your response here if you do it tactfully. You should-- I'm sure everyone else is interested about your thoughts on RPM's quality. Don't turn it into an angry rant or chances are that Steve will kill it. If you type up a good, thoughtful post with constructive criticism backed with experiences and your reasoning why you think their product is substandard Steve probably won't axe it. If you do it without angry ranting and 4-letter words, I think Steve would actually appreciate it. Well thought out and logically spoken complaints will be treated with much more respect than your run of the mill "OMG THIS STUFF F@#$# ***** !!!".

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 03-30-2001).]

[Tee]

GoKou,
Will I (just another Delta RC racer) be blessed with your presence at the track this weekend? It's the start of a multi-track offroad series, which will put some spark into your RC. You may get to see Francis/Atondo/Dassonville (top factory pilot stuff). Be there!

[JP]

lol GoKou

[Railman]

GOKU- Maybe I missed something but why would a lighter flywheel give a more sluggish response off the bottom? There is less rotational mass to accelerate with a lighter flywheel. I've always used the stock flywheel in the past with plenty of punch out of the turns (actually too much for my old eyes & reflexes). I actually set up my MT12 with the steel MIP flywheel to soften the throttle response coming out of turns, & offset the additional weight with a reduction in gearing ( 14->64,about a 1/2 pnt oa. drop from stk 15->66 ). I've only had a chance to run it once & only have about a qt through it, is still in the way rich mode of breaking it in. It still has plenty of punch as anything over 10% wheel spin actually reduces traction. By the way I've enjoyed looking @ your GT posts. Nice truck, lots of eye candy! Thanks for your input in this forum. I have something you might be interestd in on another site called GT bump steer. Remember we do this stuff to have fun!

[Railman]

JACE2000- I tried using the rpm 2 way pistons a long time ago but couldn't get the overall results that I was looking for. Which pistons did you use , more rebound or compresion dampening, front & rear, what weights? I would appreciate any input. Thanks

[Gokou]

Tee-- there's a 50/50 chance I'll be out there... I have to machine a few parts in the morning for my senior project, and depending on which lathe and mill I get to use I'll either be out there to drive or be out there to watch. I really want to race, that's for sure, but my senior project unfortunately takes priority over R/Cs... doh! When's it start? Regular time?

Railman-- The heavier flywheel helps out a bit in the torque department. The lighter flywheel allows the engine to accelerate faster (less rotational mass and thus the flywheel stores less energy). The heavier flywheel, while slowing the acceleration because more of the power from the engine goes into spinning up the flywheel, also stores energy because of its increased mass and can contribute its extra energy in the form of a bit more torque under load. It does like you say soften the throttle response, because more of the engine's power goes to the flywheel to "spin it up". However when the truck experiences a sudden load the added energy in the heavy flywheel can "chip in" and supply a bit of it's energy to the drive wheels and make the engine's job easier. A heavier flywheel is easier and smoother to drive, as you said, as its added mass smooths out the engine's response. With my light flywheel, the truck is very, very responsive to throttle input because very little of the engine's power goes into spinning the flywheel. It spins the rear tires very easily and it requires a very steady trigger finger, but I feel that disadvantage is outweighed by the instant acceleration the lightweight flywheel provides. I have a good trigger finger and I can manage the rather dramatic acceleration the lightweight flywheel provides without doing donuts.

I have better bottom-end power with a heavier flywheel on my GT, which is probably due to the tall gearing I run (17/63 or 17/64) and because I have my clutch set to engage quickly (leading edge engagement) for better low-speed control because the clutch slips much less. With the lightweight flywheel, the engine slows momentarily when the clutch engages because it does so at a rather low RPM where the engine isn't making much power. With the heavy flywheel, the low-rpm bog when the clutch engages is gone and the truck jumps off the line much faster, but after the initial takeoff the lightweight flywheel leaves the heavy flywheel in the dust. The heavier flywheel is much smoother to drive though. I just prefer the behavior of the lightweight flywheel. If my trigger finger was a bit on the heavy side, I would prefer the heavy flywheel. I'd also probably switch and run the heavy flywheel on a very loose track because it isn't as "twitchy" as the light flywheel.

Railman, I'll have to give your setup a try, going with the heavier flywheel and lower gears. I've been headed the opposite direction, light flywheel and taller gears. The MT-12 and X-12 both certainly have the rev's to be very fast even with lower gears. I'll try it tomorrow if I get a chance.

Thanks for the compliments on my truck BTW. I'm hoping to get a set of Progressive reservoirs soon, then I think I'm done throwing money at it and can move on to a Mugen XR or Kanai 7.5. Actually, I need to pick up a rear shock tower tomorrow, I broke my rear one today. Advice: don't do wheelies with the body off =)

Where is the GT bump steer site by the way? Sounds like some good reading.

About the 2-stage pistons: I have an odd piston setup in my old team car which I really love but for the life of me I can't remember who made it. It's a 2-stage piston of sorts combined with a tapered rod that goes through the piston. The tapered rod sits up in the shock cap and goes all the way down to the bottom of the shock, going through one of the holes in the piston. The rod is tapered-- very thin at the bottom and very thick (almost blocking the entire hole in the piston) at the top. As the shock compresses the dampening gradually gets heavier (instead of immediately heavier as with the RPM 2-stage pistons) as the piston slides up the tapered rod, which gets thicker blocking more of the opening in the piston as the shock compresses. The piston is still 2-stage though; an additional hole in the piston opens on rebound so that the shock can rebound quickly instead of rebounding slowly (because one hole is still in the large part of the taper.) If the 2-stage wasn't there, the shock would rebound slowly, getting gradually quicker as the piston moved down the tapered rod. I wish I remember who made them. They work awesome. They have light dampening under half compression of the shock (so small bumps are absorbed very easily) and get rather heavy over half compression (they soak up jumps amazingly well). Unfortunately they're about 9 years old so I doubt they are made anymore. I suppose though I could get a set of the RPM 2-stage pistons and machine some tapered rods to work with them though...

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 03-31-2001).]

[Railman]

GOKOU- (Spelled it right this time, sorry) Bump steer is on Extreme RC site by jumpin joe (Me!) Thanks for the reply.

[JP]

<---------is proud to annouce that one person saved me from quitting the hobby. How far one compliment (complement?) will go... "Wow! Your car is flying! Where did you learn to drive like that?" God I love when i beat a pro in a practice race http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[TRXboy]

Great Bro, glad to here it, Who told you that.

[n2o]

hey guys, I just got my Mugen Reciever box in the mail today.. How did you guys mount it?? The holes dont really line up. Any help would be great.. Maybe you could email me at byvalhwnd@aol.com

thanks

-n2o

[Bodido]

I Haven't posted pictures yet, but will soon. I ended up drilling new holes (countersinking too!) through the chassis and the box. I also mounted the readout for my low budget temp probe in the top of the reciever box. You can see it through the windshield. Looks pretty trick, too http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[GoBlue]

I mounted my Mugen Box a few weeks ago...I first cleaned up the box (cut off the extra mounting things and drilled hole for antena wire)then I cut off antena doohicky on orignal reciever mount and put the original RX mount back on the truck then positioned the mugen on the original rx mount using double sided tape. I then took it back off then drilled 2 holes thru new and old, fasten with short screws...I believe this is a more secure way to mount then what other posters have done, plus you clear the bevel of the chase (sp). If someone can tell me how to post pics i will do so....it looks SWEET!!!!!!!!!

[n2o]

GoBlue
You can just email me your pics if you want.. But this is how to post pics..
FIRST you need to go to photopoint.com and create a free account. Then you upload your images. You will be able to view them from your photopoint account. You can then just copy the URL (link) of the image and then when you make a post.. put

*[*img*]* link to image *[*/img*]

but without the *'s..

Bodido... When you take those pics please email me them ok? I will wait to mount it till I see them.. thanks everyone!

-n2o

[This message has been edited by n2o (edited 03-31-2001).]

[GoBlue]

Hey N2o try this.........

<a href=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1621669&a=12384776>See my photos of Recreation at PhotoPoint</a>

[n2o]

Hey thats pretty cool man! thanks for posting the pics.. I guess most of you are just making up your own way to mount it. I had to get creative when I set up the linkage for my slide carb RS12. So I'll cook something up for my new mugen box.

What are some other good mods to do to my GT? Not that I havent already spent way to much money on it. But I want to have all of the go-fast toys before I hit the track with the big-boys.. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/wink.gif

-n2o

[Rc1oGtMaN]

n20, you could try this: http://rcvehicles.about.com/hobbies/rcvehicles/library/rc101/blrc101_tempgagea.htm It'll save ya some green and tells you what the hottest and coolest temp was that you ran your engine at.

[Bodido]

Yea. What rc10gtman said! I did the same thing and mounted the temp probe readout in the top of my Mugen reciever box. $35 for MIP temp probe? How about a reciever box with temp probe for $20? I think thats better. Plus if you mount the readout on the reciever box you can see it through the windshield perfectly. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[Rc1oGtMaN]

No prob Bob. Did yall attatch the original reciever mount to the box? If so how? Is Tower's price of like $10 a good one?

[Gokou]

Railman-- I checked out that bumpsteer thread, and more importantly, I checked out my truck. My truck has zero bump steer. I'm running 2 washers under the ballstuds on the steering knuckles.

About the temp stuff: I use an exergen, so I don't have an onboard temp gauge, but I stumbled across this a while ago and I must say it is mighty tempting... http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/eproject/wireless.html

Anyone know where I can get the Lunsford carb adapter? I want to try my OS carb on my spaghetti motor. I know a lot of the pro's do it, and I found my OS carb much more consistent than my RB/Mugen carb...

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-01-2001).]

[Jace2000]

Hey guys..

Is anyone here using metal diff gears in their GT? If so, I would appreciate it very much if you can tell me what kind of diff balls you are using in them.

I noticed that my diff balls get grinded after I started using the metal diff gear from Robinson.

Thanks in advance

[Jace2000]

Hey guys..

Is anyone here using metal diff gears in their GT? If so, I would appreciate it very much if you can tell me what kind of diff balls you are using in them.

I noticed that my diff balls get grinded after I started using the metal diff gear from Robinson.

Thanks in advance

[n2o]

thanks for the link man. thats some prretty good information!

[Gokou]

Jace-- my suggestion is to ditch the metal tranny gears and just run stock gears. They're quieter and self-lubricating. I've had no problems with gears exploding, and I run either an MT-12 or like yourself an RB X-12. The stock tranny gears work great. Diff ball wear is another problem with metal tranny gears...

I really don't know what to suggest, the problem you are having is an issue with any metal to metal contact. If you want to stick with the metal diff gear, I'd either try to get some diff balls made of harder carbide (maybe try MIPs?) or better yet try to chase down a set of ceramic diff balls. Unfortunately then you'll start wearing the metal diff gear out and your diff will get real sloppy.



[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-02-2001).]

[Jace2000]

.

[This message has been edited by Jace2000 (edited 04-02-2001).]

[Jace2000]

Thanks for the info Goku... http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[TRXboy]

I run metel internals and i see no problem what so ever, just normal diff ball whear,No check these bad boys out http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

Check out Da C HUBS!

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1379414&a=10524853&p=45470901&Sequence=0

[Jace2000]

Railman...

I really appreciate your thorough suggestions.
Thanks man http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[atm92484]

TRXboy, whats with the censor block?

[TRXboy]

Its there now, Photopoint has bin going out all day, dunno why.

[Railman]

JACE2000- I was starting to wonder if anyone was reading my replies! It's nice when you hear back I guess. Seems like most of time I reply I kill the thread! Why is that? I don't mean any harm, just trying to give my views, & add input. Thanks for reply.

[Gokou]

Railman, I was reading your replies in other threads about the MIP clutch... am I an oddball for running it in leading edge engagement? Most people I talk to give me funny looks when I tell them I run it in leading edge. I would try trailing edge with the weights, if I could find the weights... (oops)

I just prefer the better low speed drivability that leading edge gives. I actually lightened the shoes a bit, because with the stock leading edge engagement, the clutch was grabbing at very low RPMs and bogging the motor. I drilled 3 3/32" holes in the leading edge of each shoe, and it's just about perfect for me.

Also, anyone know where I can get or does anyone have the part number for the Lunsford adapter so I can stick my OS carb on my Mugen/RB?

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-02-2001).]

[Clamman]

Hey, Ive got an RC10GT(thank you captain obvious), and Im thinking about upgrading my engine. I have a .12 OS CV-X(pullstart). I was looking into the .12 Nova Rossi. The one with 1 hp and 34,000 rpm. Is that going to make a drastic increase in performance? Is it a worthwhile upgrade, or do I need a .15 to make a diff? I know the Rossi has a bunch more hp than even the OS .15's, but in the real world will it matter much? Anyone have a RC10 with a Nova Rossi that can tell me how it runs, or how it compares to the OS .12 CV?

Also, which is better/faster, the CV-R or the Nova Rossi? Both are 1 hp, but the Rossi is rated 3000 more max rpm than the OS.

Thanks for the input in advance.

[This message has been edited by Clamman (edited 04-02-2001).]

[Railman]

Gokou- That explains why I was confused about the light flywheel comment (bogging) that you made in a past post & reply. If I'm not mistaken the only guys that run the leading edge setup are oval racers, at least this is what I've been told by some local guys that have done well at big meets. They have tried them all, & are very knowledgable. The MIP instructions recomend this setup ( #2) for offroad stop & go type tracks. They also give the most detail as to why they recomend this setup. there is very little downside to this setup. Most guys like to replace their clutch's as a normal maintanance item because as the diameter of the shoe decreases it increases engagement lag time (inexspensive, good payback). This lag can sneak up on you without noticing it. I like to clean, sand, my clutch bell when I maintain my bearings. I swiss cheesed my last bell to help cool, lighten, & also help offset the heavy flywheel I used to smooth out my MT12. My only concern is the detriment to slowing down. Used asoc pipe 1st week; worked very well. Cut header pipe 3/8" & used O'donell pipe this week; had all the low and top end you ask for, smooth in between, no flat spots. I just wish I started doing this stuff when I was younger so that my driving was better. It's still a blast! BTW: I do know what I'm talking about on the bump steer thing, am convinced that the next Assoc. gas truck will follow B3/T3's, & Losi xxx's on these suspension geometry's, not because I say so, but because they just work better! I also know what the manual says about bump steer. That's enough BS from me for tonight (12:30am). Talk/write to ya later.

[Railman]

Jace2000- I feel that most diff failures are a result of trying to motor off from being stuck on a tube (one wheel stationary, one wheel double speed) causing the diff to counter rotate @ an extreme speed (Turn marshall! turn marshall!) If done long enough it will definately melt the gear. I like to replace the stock $2 gear every other diff rebuild just to be safe though.
The MIP ball & ring kits work very well.

If you still want to use the metal gear you might try hard chromed, or ceramic (Niftech?)ones instead of the carbide ones. Carbide is actually a rather coarse material, wears well, stays round, but due to its coarse grain tends to grind into & hold softer metals. They do work well as far as gripping the rings, allowing less slippage with less ball pressure, resulting in a free'r dif. The hard chrome is fine grained (as is ceramic) & would be less likely to pick up the metal. They use both in hip replacements for this reason. The downside to this is a diff that will slip easier than the stock gear with carbide balls. By the way, I always get better dif rebuild results by cleaning the diff balls with laquer thinner in a film canister to remove the plastic that becomes impregnated into the porous carbide. Just look @ them under a scope sometime & you'l see what I mean. Hope this helps whichever way you go. Good luck.

[This message has been edited by Railman (edited 04-02-2001).]

[Gokou]

The bump steer thing is odd. Then again my truck probably isn't the best test for it; I am running MIP steering and RPM a-arms, which are a hair longer than the stock AE a-arms. With my setup I have 0 bump steer; stock it very well might have. I didn't check for bump-steer before I went on a hop-up frenzy... Are you watching for bump steer while steered directly ahead or at any steering angle? I only checked while pointed straight ahead. Now that I think about it and I have a picture of the steering setup in my head, I can see that the truck could have bumpsteer if the bellcranks aren't pointed straight ahead. I'll have to check when I go home this weekend.

I might have to give the O'Donnell pipe a try. You're not the only one who really likes it. Currently I run a CVEC (works great when the piston is clean and not sticking) and when I'm not I run a Serpent Mega Pipe, which works extremely well with the MT-12/X-12.

This weekend I'll pick myself up a new MIP clutch so I can try trailing edge with weights. I really only ran leading edge because trailing edge with no weights was terrible for me (didn't engage until very high RPM, making it hard to take off smoothly, and was hard to control at low speeds) and I somehow managed to lose the weights, so I couldn't do trailing edge with weights. The only option I had for lower RPM engagement was leading edge, and that just engaged too fast (but I love how it drives low-speed); so by drilling the holes in the shoes, that adjusted the catch point it to where I like it. How is trailing edge with weights for very low speed stuff? With leading edge, even drilled, there is almost 0 slip, which I really like; the truck is very controllable at low speeds. However I can see leading edge being rather hard and unforgiving on a rough track because it's VERY hard to slip... I guess I've just been fortunate not to tear up anything because of that.

And Clamman-- for a very fast motor that's still easy to tune, the CV-R is the one to beat. It has more than enough power for 2wd trucks and is very easy and consistent to tune. The Novarossi is also a fast engine, but they are a bit more picky because the Nova carbs aren't up to the level of the OS carb. You really can't go wrong with either, but if you're looking for start it and go dependability and still be very quick, the CV-R is tough to beat.

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-03-2001).]

[n2o]

Clamman.. Gokou is right about the OS engine.. That is a pretty fast engine to be an OS.. So it will be easy(er) to tune than some and still give you a lot of power.. If you are a good tuner (not that I'm the best or anything) you would like the MT12.. I just got mine broken in last night and at 1/2 - 3/4 throttle it blows my friends .15 CVX totally away.. They shouldnt even be on the same track.. haha..

-n2o

[Tee]

Gokou,
I've noticed that those MIP clutch shoes claim to have a calibrated spring. I've found that to not be true. I tested three different springs, and found two of them to be the same, and my latest one is significantly lighter feeling. They look the same size, but don't feel the same. I'm running mine weightless and trailing, which seems the most conventional of all. It's what works for me.

[Clamman]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Can someone tell me who makes the MT12, so I can look up the specs at their site?

[TRXboy]

It is a mugen engine that is developed by Novarossie, i think it is some where better 1-1.35 HP at 37K's, But you need a new header w/ that engine.

[TRXboy]

Ok Guys...role call, Post some pics of your GT and what ya got on it....

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1379414&a=10524853&p=45531535&Sequence=0

RRP- Titanum Top Shaft
Steel Idler gear
Alumnim Diff gear
Steel Cluch bell/spur gear combo
Slipper Cluch
MIP- Cluch
CVD's
HG- Alumnim Rear Hubs
Alumnim Front Hubs
Alumnim Rear Bulkhead
Associated- Unotitanum Shock shafs
Teflon coated shock's
Black header
Trintiy- Trinity/Picco .12
Trinity "Pro" Tuned Pipe
Transmision brace(Not shown)
Rear A Arm mounts(Not shown)
Lunsenford- Titanum Turn Buckels
Titanum Hing Pins
RPM- Ball Cups
A-Arm Mounts(Not strong enough)

That sounds good to me,Probly missed a few...Hope you guys like.

[Gokou]

Guess I'll post my old pic again... I really need to borrow a digital camera and take some better ones.

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/gt_pics/orange2.jpg

-RB X-12 (also have an MT-12 and modified OS .12 CV Hyper)
-CVEC pipe (most of the time)
-Serpent mega pipe (when the track won't let me run the CVEC)
-Aitronics 94357 throttle servo, 94358 steering servo
-Airtronics M8 with 92836 receiver
-OFNA throttle linkage (very nice, not in pic)
-MIP Shiny CVDs
-MIP Lite Drives
-MIP Ball bearing steering
-MIP 4-n-1 Clutch
-MIP blue shock o-rings
-Kimbrough large servo saver with carbon fiber riser plate (so the servo saver clears the chassis)
-RPM rod ends
-RPM F/R body mounts
-RPM 0 degree rear a-arm mounts
-RPM F/R a-arms
-RPM Servo mounting blocks
-Robinson titanium ball studs
-Robinson machined spur gear
-Robinson tranny top shaft
-Robinson hardened clutch bell
-Associated mini 4-40 aluminum Locknuts
-Full stainless screws
-Lunsford titanium hinge pins
-Motorsavers Air Filter
-HG spring clips
-HG rear bulkhead
-HG lower rear shock mounts
-Trinity extended tranny brace
-Trinity aluminum/delrin upper shock mounts
-GS racing graphite boost bottle
-GS racing aluminum cone washers
-Mugen pipe mount

Coming soon: polished Progressive Suspension reservoirs

[TRXboy]

Hey gokuo nice truck, how are those MIP Lite drives holdin up? I broke mine the first time out with a TRX Engine, not even a Picco.

[pp13b]

heres my gt http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1542717&a=12262605&p=44697919

[Gokou]

So far no problems with the lite drives... (knock on wood)

I really only tried them to see if they wear any longer than the associated outdrives. When I switched to the MT-12 and to my X-12, the associated ones don't last very long at all =) The MIP's are doing very well and show almost zero wear after half a gallon, whereas the associated ones wore out in about half a gallon...

[Grant Tokumi]

http://www.rcarchive.com/rca/gifs/gt1.jpg
This picture was taken around 5 years ago. I still race this same truck today. Different body though. Good thing about Associated is that things don't change much from year to year, so its easier to maintain an older model like mine. Specs as of today:

-OS CVR engine
-Stock Associated pipe
-MIP 4 in 1 clutch
-Lungsford titanium tie rods
-Losi extra long ball-cups in front
-Traxxas (rocket city type) ball ends in rear
-Airtronics 94257 ball bearing metal gear
steering servo
-JR NES-4131 throttle servo
-MIP shiny CVD drive kit
-Hammad Ghuman aluminum brake adapter
-Return spring
-Proline Holeshot rear tires
-Proline Edge front tires
-RPM bulkhead
-Trinity chassis brace
-Custom riveted nose plate for more secure steering arm (for traditional black tub chassis);
-JR 756 FM radio
-Dynamite 5 cell 500mah receiver battery
-Blue Thunder 20% fuel

[Rc1oGtMaN]

all nice lookin trucks....gokou, your truck is so clean; like you've just finished making it.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I'm looking for a starter box and I'm looking at a few:
XTM starter box $59.99
Dynamite ready start: $74.99
Nuova Faor steel starter box: $119.99
Any opinions/pros/cons/suggestions for other boxes? Your response is very much appreciated.

[rc10gt_bb]

I now little about starter boxes but I would say just go with the cheapest. If it starts your car, and consistantly, then its worth buying.

[TRXboy]

I like bump starts better if you ask me, you get used to it after a while, and you dont have to prime the engine, just flipping the truck up gets gas into the engine, and they spin generly faster.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Thanks TRXBoy, do you have any perferred brand or do they all work well?

[rc10gt_bb]

I also use a bump start to start my gt. I just use a tower regular strength one and it has lasted me 1 year. Its seen better days, but it has lasted a year!

[n2o]

I have the dynomite starter box for my GT.. I really love this box... You can listen to who ever you wish. But the cheap box isnt always the way to go. I bought the dynomite box and a friend of mine bought the ofna box. Mine was 115 (my hobby shop is high) and the ofna was 69 or so.. Well to make a long story short.. The ofna box isnt powerful enough to get his NEW engine to turn over.. So he has to start it on mine and he is going to buy one like mine tomorrow.. The Mugen box is top of the line, I would get that one if I could do it again though..

-n2o

[Railman]

We use an Ofna (2 motor) as do many other people @ Columbus Oh. Asked around before we bought Ours & couldn't find anyone that didn't like theirs. We don't have any problem starting our Nova12 & MT12(extremly tight, still), but we use a 12v car battery to power. The wheel on the Ofna seems to grip better & don't show signs of wear like the Dynamite wheel on the starter box that I scratch built. Wore out one & 2nd was getting there. If you keep from hydrolock, & keep everything lined up the Ofna will work fine. However I've also seen a lot of the Dynamite box's used there. Both I'm sure would be good choices.

[Railman]

Please delete this (sent reply 2x)

[This message has been edited by Railman (edited 04-04-2001).]

[Gokou]

Thanks Rc1oGtMaN... actually, I've run about 5 gallons through my truck... it's just I usually dissassemble quite a bit of it (I yank the wheels/tires/a-arms/motor, sometimes more) and simple green it at the end of every day. It always gets put back on the shelf looking like new (minus the scratches in the bottom of the chassis...) I like clean shiny stuff =)

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Anyone have a GT RTR w/ AE .15? I think mine is running a little lean!

[Jace2000]

Good work everyone!
This is the largest and fastest growing thread in RCCA.
We're on par with the XXX thread so let's keep the info flowin' http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[TRXboy]

Tokumi- do you have a site called rc archives or somthin'?

[rc10gt_bb]

This post might make 10 pages! Today I had an awful thing happen to me. I was out tunning my enigne in my gt and it fliped. I went to run after it and when my pumping hand brushed agianst my side it chaught on something realy hard. I thought it was my tunning screwdriver and didn't think anything of it, just kept on running toward my flipped car. When I got to my car I noticed that my thumb was gushing blood! It still didn't hurt. I went to go pick up what I though to be my scredriver, but it was my knife! Right then my thumb started to pound with pain. I put ny car down and noticed it was covered with blood. The driveway started get a bunch of blood drops on the drivway. I went inside to clean my thump up and I started to get light-headed. I almost fainted, and threw up. I don't know what was wrong with me! I never get sick at the sight of blood. When I went to go pick my car up of the driveway and clean it up it took a lot of nitro wash to get the blood stains off! Sorry if I grosed someone out or something! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[rc10gt_bb]

Maybee this will.

[TRXboy]

Nice....

[TRXboy]

Then ummm richen is up!

[Gokou]

Well, being the impatient person that I am, I ended up making my own adapters today to stick my OS carb on my Spaghetti motors. (National RC is out of stock). Too bad my truck is 100 miles away, and I'm stuck here at school. Guess I'll have to wait until next weekend to test...

[n2o]

So who all is running the Novarossi RS12 - MT12?? My GT is screaming fast with my new Novarossi engine.. I have ProLine speed hawgs on the front and back and my truck can light them up and leave little black lines all over the side walk.. heh.. I cant wait to take it to the track and see what it can do. I am just waiting to get my body painted incase I flip on a jump or something. Does your body get really scratched and banged up when you land up side down? My truck runs pretty good though... Hey I have a ??.. I just put the MIP Temp Gauge2 on my GT.. The way I have it tuned right now it runs between 220 and 225 with 30% nitro at about 80 dcgress out side.... Should I lean it out any more at all? Because when I let it sit and idle for 30 seconds or so it will load up with fuel and when I punch it, I get a lot of smoke and a stalled truck.

thanks
-n2o

[Railman]

N2o, it sounds to me like you got it about right. From what I gather a lot of guys tune rich on the bottom & slightly lean on top to keep the temp down, & still get maximum performance. There is no need for an engines to idle for 30 seconds under race conditions, just blip the throttle every now & then @ idle situations. Just curious; are you running a slide or rotary carb? I'm running a slide on my MT12, & am currious about servo horn set ups & chasis flex probems with the slide setup etc. I didn't need the xtra power of the slide, but man is it fun! What clutch set up (MIP)?, I like #2. Been thinking about using just a little bit xtra clutch weight to engage @ lower rpm to gain cornering traction, so as to have drive power @ a lower hp. These new motors will definately pull it. Anyone have any thoughts on this matter?
N2o: You hand built a go cart @ age 12? Impressive!

[This message has been edited by Railman (edited 04-06-2001).]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I shared a few tips on the HPI forum a while ago, an I guess I'll share'em here:
1. to make your tires a little stickier, soak them in nitro, and then dry them off. They will be a little softer than the day you got them. I'm not too sure if this has any bad effects on the tires, an woul only recommend this for racers.
2. To gain like 3 minutes more of run time, reposition your pressure line to the lid on your fuel tank, and put a screw through the old pressure tap.

[TRXboy]

How would adding a pressure tap in the cap of the gas tank add run time, do you have any Pics on how to do it? Thanks.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

No pics, but it doesn't **** any gas out of the pressure line, only fumes and air. Also, for you TRXBoy, I read in the new issue of RCCA, that some guy put like medical silicone tubing on the outside of his shock pistons to keep his truck from bottoming out when he jumped.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Oh Yea