Associated RC10GT Forum v2.0

[atm92484]

lmao @ GTMan.

Nitroracer, like the others have said a Factory Team GT is awesome and you won't be disappointed. Add a CV-R and you'll have a fast truck with an easy to tune engine.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Atho, I don't own a RTR, but my friend does. There's two problems he had with it:
1.) The chassis is unobtanium, which isn't as strong as aluminum. My friend ran into a tree going about 10mph, and now his chassis has a nice bend right behind the nosebrace tubes.
2.) My friend's shocks came without o rings in them.

[RC10GTMark]

I can second the chassis bending. As for the no orings in the shocks, mine came with orings.

[Gokou]

I wouldn't say I completely broke my RPM rear body mounts, but it did grind the top halves down enough that the screws tore right out. As TRX said, don't do a wheelie so big the truck flips over backwards, especially on the street. Asphalt has a way of griding away at things :rolleyes: At least it didn't scratch my engine head, the shock tower and body mounts took care of that :D

[TRXboy]

Speaking of not doing anything on street...dont do jumps on there ether...i would have much rather gotten the head scrached...then this....

http://members.tripod.com/pitmonkey911/id39.htm

[RC10GTMark]

**** dude your the crash daddy. Love the pics, ill have to get some to compete with you. I have had some nasty crashes in the past few months.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Nick, judging by that header, I'm going to say that that happenned in the T-Maxx. I saw that ramp you bought, in another post. It was on Toy R Us' website for 40 bucks. Didn't you pay like 15 at target?

Has anyone tried titanium shock towers and chassis from Killer Bee Racing or Hardcore?
KBR's components are natural finish, so they aren't that pretty, but they seem tough.

[Gokou]

Ouch Nick, those Hyper heads cost a pretty penny. Are you going to straighten it or replace it?

As for the shock towers: my favorites are still the FT graphite towers-- they're light and very stiff, plus they look very nice. Titanium shock towers are intriguing, but think of it this way: if you are breaking the FT graphite towers, imagine what you will end up breaking when you install titanium towers, which probably won't give in a crash... :eek:

[morfeeis]

wow that must have hurt

i think i am going with the traxxas battery hold downs in the rear (nice trick grant)
Traxxas Part #3727 $3.00 for anyone that flips as much as me

http://www.rcarchive.com/rca/gifs/rc/rearbody.jpg

and the rpm mounts in the front

[RC10GTMark]

RPM mounts are sold in a kit like I pictured in the previous page. Just replace the one part with the traxxas part and you'll have a sweat strong setup. RPM and traxxas.

[Grant Tokumi]

Morfeeis, don't forget to get 3mm nuts for the bottom if you don't have any at home. 3mm is a standard Tamiya nut, and must be a standard Traxxas nut too. But they are different than the 4-40 nuts that come standard with the GT.

For the front body posts, I haven't experienced it breaking apart, but I have experienced problems with it stripping off from the screw that holds it in place. To solve it, I just replaced the screw with a Tamiya style self-tapping screw. Didn't have to buy RPM. Can you tell I had some Tamiya kits before? :) The self-tapping screws have coarser threads and hold much stronger into plastic than the Associated standard 4-40 machine screws. The Tamiya screws are just slightly larger diameter than 4-40, so it takes slightly more effort to get in there, but not enough to require drilling out the hole. Having it tighter actually helps to hold the body post in place better. Just force the Tamiya screw in and it should hold the front body post very well.

If stripped screw is the problem, then the above suggestion will fix your problem cheaper than buying new body posts, but if the body post broke in half or broke apart, then not much you can do about that other than buying those replacement RPMs.

[ 06-13-2001: Message edited by: Grant Tokumi ]

[morfeeis]

i am got the rpm mounts just cause they have yellow and my next body is going to yellow and red or blue and yellow so my front mounts will match the body (silly i know)
:D :D

[TRXboy]

Nah im not gunna buy a new one i will just straiten it....i dont know if it is right here but i ill try anyway....anyone know why an engine would stall after a truck bottems out on a big jump?(Like 10 feet high)

[RC10GTMark]

The only thing I can think of why the engine would stall is the chassis flexes enough to move the trottle linkage fully closed, choking the motor. It happened a few times to me, and on my tmaxx it always happens when I flip it without the body mount, the throttle linkage hits the ground and closes the carb.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Nick, the flywheel probably hit the ground, or if the stinger is pointing down enough, you snuffed out the exhaust.

Gokou, I don't think I'll be buying any Ti parts any time soon, since I just cut a deal for a clodbuster. I like my graphite hock towers too, but I'd like to buy the chassis for a lower CG.

[morfeeis]

gt man that is just what i was thinking but the motor would have to move for the flywheel to hit that hard chassis flex could cause all of this

[TRXboy]

Hmmm..what if it is not possible for nether the engine or exsaust pipe to hit the ground(But the chassis can still bottem out)....

[RC10GTMark]

I told u, it always happens to me, it just closes the carb.

Other than that, maybe there is such a force from bottoming out that the piston moves when it isn't supposed to, or out of time. If it messes up the timing, it could stop the motor... just a guess tho.

[Skateboarder]

Hello, for my gt what would be better a slide carb or rotary one.
Thanks a bunch :)

[Snoozy]

Well, just got back from LHS, and I bought the OFNA linkage kit, its very nice! I also got some new bearings' and a new lead for the reciever pack. I am looking for a digital camera, so I can get some shots of my car up, but no luck to far. :mad: Anyways, I'm looking to get back into racing, do you guys think I should really dial my car in, or run it loose so it forces me to go slower, and will let me learn faster...

[RC10GTMark]

I do not know why, but when they sell motors for offroad use they sell you a rotary carb. For onroad they use slide carbs. Once again im not positive why, but I suggest getting a rotary carb for offroad use. I have a cv-r with a rotary carb and have had no problems.

The gt rtr comes with a rotary carb.

[t3gt]

Just posting for the first time and wanted to know how that FTGT w/4-stroke .26 from the last Nitro mag ran?
Did anybody try to race it?
:D

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Billy, where in LA do you live? I'm in River Ridge, just outside of New Orleans.

Nick, I don't know why but it seems to me that every time a car takes a huge hit, the engine cuts out. Probably the piston moving, like Mark said.

Snoozy, did you read on the St. Charles Racer Forum, that they bought a domain? It's not up yet (I don't think), but you can read more about it in your thread. I think you should probably get your truck dialed to the track when you learn, that way you won't learn to give it too much or too little gas in parts. The hot setup when I had my GT running was 30wt shock oil in the back with 35 in the front (might be the other way around), green springs f/r, Holeshot T rear tires, and edge fronts. They track has been enlarged since I went thee, but just ask around. The big guru over there is probably Mr. Danny, so you might want to hang around his old red chevy truck. (that's the most defining thing that you would notice) Most of the engines that they used to run were OS CV Hypers.

[atm92484]

They use rotary carbs on offroad engines since they are more common than slide carb offroad. Plus with a slide carb you can lay the power down so fast offroad that usually you won't be able to get traction. Onroad there is more traction so this is a plus. If you run a slide carb offroad it will just take some more practice with throttle control and yes you can run a slide carb in a GT.

[t3gt]

What's up RC10GTMan!!
I live in Kenner, and getting ready to move to Luling.
I'm known as T3GT on St. Charles Racers message board.
I was tring to keep my name the same in all message boards, but I screwed up and put my real name in the displayed name section. I don't know if i can change it either...If anyone knows how to change your displayed name, Please let me Know...If not, Oh well! Real name it is!! :D

[RC10GTMark]

I want to try to water cool my GT. I just got a CV-R so im gonna use my AE .15 as a test dummy. OS and Traxxas sell a marine head that allows water cooling, I can use another gas tank as a water resivior and use the pressure fitting at my overflow. I dont think the water will get hot enough to need a radiator, and I can use an electric pump or a pump off the crank case like the perry pump. What do you guys thing?

[RC10GTMark]

OS Engines Part Number 21240010

That is the marine head from the CV-M, the marine version of the OS CV. That means this head will fit a CV-R, a CV and a CV Hyper.

Someone PLEASE correct me if im wrong before I slap this on my CV-R.

[Turboduck01]

i dunno mark, what would you gain? uniqueness? good enough for me, have a ball : )

[RC10GTMark]

Yea bragging rights, and longer run times. A cooler running motor is a longer lasting motor, more efficent motor.

I live in texas and it can get up to 110 degress in the shade here, plus the heat of the motor, it is hard to keep my motor under 280.

[Big Wig]

What do you folks run for Rx's in your GT's? I have Novak XXL's in all my electric cars. I use these mostly because they're very small and look cool too :D

There seems to be room for pretty much any Rx on the GT chassis so I'd like some suggestions. Are some better than others?

thanks
Jay

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Billy, I knew your name sounded familiar - from your bassist website! I remember because somebody was giving you trash for putting it at the bottom of your posts. Try going to "My Profile" up near the top of the screen, and see if you can change you username there. Moving closer to the track huh? Wish I could do that. 30 minute drive to and from the track. I haven't been out there since they changed it around, and made it bigger; how does it look? How much bigger is the track now.

Mark, where will the outlet go for the vapors from the head? You could drill another hole in the pipe, but you could mess something up. Try to mount the fuel tank somewhere upfront, to maybe keep the nose down? My first idea for the tank, was that maybe you could place it on top if the head. I thought this might push the water into the head on its own, since the head might heat the air, which will expand and maybe push out the water. You could try putting an outlet hole on the head (if there isn't one already) and then running fuel line from the outlet, to the pressure fitting on the tank. This should work the same way as the tuned pipe for pumping the fuel into the engine, and you will:
1) have a place for the vapors to go
2) get water from the tank to the head without having to use a pump.
I think that should work.

I remember a few pages ago, we were talking about bending our chassis. Since Mark got my creative juices going, maybe we could hook up some turnbuckles to the chassis, right after the braces stop. I saw an RCCA guy do that to the sides of a Traxxas Nitro Buggy tub. To countersink the hole, use a bit with an 82 degree slope, all around. (You might need to used locknuts, so those would hang down.

Yeah, rotary carbs are easier to drive offroad than slide. ATM put it very well.

Sorry for the Book. -Mark

[ 06-14-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[RC10GTMark]

I started thinking about it, there is no way to do it without using a pump. If I pressurize the tank with exhaust, it will force water in the intake and outtake tubes, the water will not move. If I just pressurize the intake line, it will not draw fresh water, it will try to cool the motor with exhaust gas. This is what im thinking....

http://www.marks-hardware.com/pump.jpg

The overflow is incase the water gets to a boiling point. Ill route the hose under the chassis. The intake hose will be at the bottom of the tank so the pump ***** the bottom water (coldest) and the return tube will spill the hotter water into the top of the tank. the overflow tube will be at the top of the tank also.

[RC10GTMark]

Oh yea, as far as the wieght of a pump and battey and water, im not to worried about it. I only need a 9volt battery. Plus im using a CV-R which has uncontrollable power. If I wieght it down some I can just sail around the track without loosing so much traction.

[n2o]

heh

-n2o

[wojo65]

I just bought a OS hyper head for my .12 cvx and a futaba S9303 high torque bb coreless servo. I cant wait to put'em in my freshly built rc10gt ft. I love this car gts RULE!!! :D

[nitroracer911]

Mark,

Do you know how much water a marine engine has to move through the head to keep it cool? Cuz... like you said... if you recirculate the water it could get to boiling point and as heat in the water rises so does the engine temp. I sure would like to know how much water a marine engine moves every minute or so.

I am thinking a radiator man... I would stick some money into that one. Just think... no more drilling holes in the fresly painted bodies.

- just bored :rolleyes:

[RC10GTMark]

Well I got the idea off of a water cooled tmaxx, he didn't use a radiator. He used a brass tank he built that had a decent capacity, it was able to fit between the front bumper and body posts on a tmaxx. Im gonna goto the hobby shop and talk to their marine guy.

Only problem with a radiator is i'd have to poke holes in the body to cool the radiator. Maybe I can put my resivior inside a larger resivior filled with ice water, this way I dont pump freezing water onto a hot head, it would crack.

If I use a normal 75cc gas tank, filled to the max plus all hoses filled to the max, it would prolly be close to 100cc's. I dont think the motor will head up that much water to fast...

Ill see what the marine guy says.

[nitroracer911]

Mark,

Would you happen to know where info is on that water cooled T-Maxx. I sure would like to check that one out.

Thanks and Good Luck!
Paul

--please post your progress... I'm sure alot of people would love to see a successful mod to a RC10 like that :D

[atm92484]

I was reading through your plans Mark and I see a major problem. You were saying you were going to use the head for the 12 CV-M on a CV-R. However since this is the same as the CV and normal CV heads don't fit on the CV-R, this head won't work on the CV-R. Other than this it sounds like a good idea but it would need to cool well.

Remember also that an engine can be running extrememly cool but if its not getting proper lube then its still going to be damamged. However an engine, especially ABC engines like the CV-R, can run hotter as long as they are still getting the right lubrication.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

ATM, the CV-R heads fit on the CV's, so I think that the reverse is true also. I've seen guys at my local track with CV-R heads on their CV's.

[RC10GTMark]

Im not sure about the fine details, and I wont be until I goto the hobby shop and actually have the head in my hand. No matter what it is, ill find a motor to fit it, lol. The cv-m has loads of low end, and it looks like it will fit in a car rather easy, I might just do that than experiment with my baby cv-r.

I had a pic of the water cooled tmaxx, and I found a little bit about it on the orange count tmaxx club's web page. They didn't give any detals, just a couple pics. I dont know thier address. I saw it and decided, I can do that.

As far as it not being hot enough to lubricated the motor properlly, marine engines do it, so there has to be a way for car motors to do it. Im not postivie how yet, but some R and D will turn up the right answers. I might run airplane fuel and mix in some castor. Im not planning on getting tons of power out of this motor, but I want consistant long lasting power, how ever strong it is.

If nothing else my gt will look cool.

[RC10GTMark]

http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg1618.jpg
http://www.blackwood.ws/octmc/images2/liquid2.jpg

that is the cv-m. It looks like it will bolt right in a GT's mounts. I can cut the shaft and there we go. If I can put the head on a stronger motor, than that would be cool too.

The tmaxx I saw it on, I believe it had a traxxas marine head on a traxxas pro .15. Not postive yet. The hydro max is in some magazine, I saw it at the hobby shop, but it is the first time I have seen the mag.

[ 06-14-2001: Message edited by: Mark ]

[TRXboy]

Give me 5 minets...ill break that thing...

[RC10GTMark]

On a tmaxx it is breakable. Mine wont be. I just figured what I can use to power the pump. Ill use the perry pump from conley precision that is powered by the crank case pressure. You put a pressure tap in the crank case =).

[Rc1oGtMaN]

LMAO at TRXBoy.

I read a little article written on Project Twin's website about stripping anodizing off of stuff. I think I'm going to strip my chassis down, buff it, wash it, and then polish it with some Eagle One Nev-R-Dull. I really like the way his silver T-Maxx chassis and shocks look. His site is Project Twin. (http://www.geocities.com/jasoninaugusta/)

[RC10GTMark]

Man, if you wanna learn alot about anodizing, polishing, stripping, goto a paintball forum, like paintballcity.com or paintballdojo.com. Paintballs are anodize masters. I learned how to do anodizing at home, but I dont have the balls to try it...

I've been thinking about sending all my aluminum off to pkselective.com the anodizing kings and getting them colored and theme my entire truck. All the parts would match my body painting scheme.

[Turboduck01]

what color is your body?

[RC10GTMark]

Right now blue and white. I might polish the chassis, use all blue screws with chrome washers. put the wires in this alunium flex tube I have, im not sure how ill do it yet, but I can come up with something im sure.

[TRXboy]

I introduce to you...Race GT...


http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=TRXboy&album_id=29532&image_id=2&show=image&param=57101

[rcracer38]

Whats a good .12 engine to put in my RC10GT? I want to race the in ROAR competition and the AE engine I got is a .15..sigh...

[BlackWolf]

Gokou: Will the OFNA throttle/brake linkage work with a slide carb on the RC10?[

[TRXboy]

Black wolf-Yes

[atm92484]

Uhh did the Staff edit this post?

[RC10GTMark]

LOL prolly. I like the RACE GT trxboy, but I bet I could break it. hehe What kinda motor is in it?

As for the guy asking for a good .12, use the OS CV-R or OS CV-RX for pullstart. Get the rotary carb. Kick *** motor!

[Turboduck01]

trxboy, what kind of track do you race on? I've been looking at those front tires for a while, but I'm not sure they would work for my track.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Hehe, they know the thread has too big of a following to shut down, so they take out what's not supposed to be there.

On another thread, I think in the Nitro Forum, there is a link to a pic of a 2 speed GT Tranny. The page is Spanish, even when you click the link for the English version. I think the link is www.monsterhobbies.com (http://www.monsterhobby.com). If anyone finds a price on there, please tell me, thanks. -Mark

[ 06-15-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[RC10GTMark]

I cant find it? Got a direct link to the 2 speed?

[TRXboy]

Uhh mark...who said i couldent break it?Dude trust me...its been broken before..., as for the tires, i got them from tower hobbies, they where on back order for a while but they are in now i think..my track is tight...you can see it here (http://www.raceway.com)

here are some better shots.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=TRXboy&album_id=29532&image_id=3&show=image&param=32305

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=TRXboy&album_id=29532&image_id=4&show=image&param=14466

as for the body..its so noice, its so much easyer to get the front body mounts in the holes because the hood is not slanted as much as the other bodys.

[ 06-15-2001: Message edited by: TRXboy ]

[Turboduck01]

yeah it definitly looks cool, and easy access for the front. Awesome, i want one : )

[morfeeis]

trx tight truck

do those rpm ballcups bind the rear springs

[TRXboy]

moreifes- when i have the long wheel base set up they do, but i run short becase my track is TIGHT!

[ 06-15-2001: Message edited by: TRXboy ]

[Turboduck01]

is there any benifits to running ball cups for the rear? I've never even thought of it! LoL :p

[Skateboarder]

WHOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOO, I just got my gt :) :)
Last week I went to order my team gt pre built, airtronics radio, and sand paw tires and blank wheels and all the stuff was going to come in 5 days. So 5 days later everything was cool, today I call my lhs to see if my stuff is in, well all my equipment was but not the truck. I was pretty mad cause I waited all week for this thing and it did not even show up. Anyway, I asked my lhs when the pre built will come in and he tells me that he has no clue because the truck is not even available yet. So being depressed I talk to my parents(since they were getting it for me as my grad gift) and after a while of discussing they agreed to get me the factory team gt instead because my lhs had them in stock. So now Im home with my new ft gt, and I could not be happyer
WHOOOHOOOOO :)
Oh and one question, should I use the motor savers air filter that I have or just use the stock one
Thanks

[Turboduck01]

i use the ones that come with my motor, i just seem to like it more than the one with the paper air filter, for me, the paper air filter got dirty too fast. and always use oil for your filter, always!

[TRXboy]

i use ball cups so i can use titanum ball studs, i had a problem with snaping screws...

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I think the AE 2 stage filter is great. You just have to clean the outer filter element after a day of running. The inner element usually needs to be given a blast of air once a week. The motorsavers are nice, I think those cost more in the long run, and don't filter as well as the AE 2 stage filter. Anybody ever notice that the inner paper cleaner on the AE is a fuel filter for real cars? I passed by some Purelators in Pep Boys, and I thought they looked really familiar, did a double take, and checked them out. They come in taller sizes, but the same diameter, so you could have a really tall AE type filter if you stacked some of the foam elements on top of eachother :D. K&N's are nice too, but they don't stay on the carb well.

[T3GT]

RC10Gtman-->Who was giving me trash for the site on my posts? it's in my signature when I post, I don't type it in everytime.
Anyway, the track is pretty big now, perfect for GT's & Electric Mod, But still a little tight for 8th scale, even though they fly around the track effortlessly!!!
The last time I was there I tried out my new MVP stock motor in my T3, & James Scott ran a XXX-T w/12T Double and beat all the GT's by almost a Lap!
I'm gonna get my GT back in action as soon as I get it tuned right to the track, 'til then , I'm running Stock Truck.
Hope to see you out there, I'm going Sunday...If you go, Bring your Holeshots!!! :p

[Gokou]

Sorry, just got my computer set up after moving back. Yes, the Ofna linkage will work with a slide carb-- look in the first few pages of this thread, Tundra has a pic posted with his GT, which has a slide carb and the Ofna linkage.

[TRXboy]

Not surprisng that the GT's got lapped, electric trucks simply handel better then Nitros...XXX-NT's would have gotten lapped also.

[carl_77]

Hi I have an os.12cv-x on my rc10gt. I want to get the MIP light fly wheel but it says that is only for non pull start. Would it still fit for a pull start engine? Has anyone try that?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Nick, awesome looking truck. That paintjob is great!

I haven't tried a non-pull flywheel on a pullstart engine. It will be too short to use a bump start or starter box, though.

Billy, I was talking about that post in the Special Events Forum. I don't think I can make it to the track this weekend. I'm going to Hobby Hut to buy a rechargeable batt, new one way bearing for my pullstart, engine rebuild, and some other little things. I just got my new Airtronics CX2P radio in today. I love it. James Scott, is that the guy who owns UK Hobbies? I'm not too familiar with everone at the track. The guys I know are little Tom, his dad, Chris (tom's friend), and Mr. Danny. I need to become a member, to support the track.

I think I'm going to try stripping the anodizing off my chassis today, like I said earlier. I'll try to get a hold of a digicam for some pics of how it comes out.

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

To who ever was asking about a non pull start flywheel on a pullstart i put my old CZ nonpull on my New CV-RX and it works but i dont know about the mip it probably will work..

todd Fishingguy33424@aol.com

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

i bought a robonson's racing spur gear and it is a 55 tooth one and i need to know what size clutch bell i need for it to mesh with the spur properly???? i need hel[p please!!!

todd fishingguy33424@aol.com

[TRXboy]

RC10GTman-THANK!

Todd- a 55 tooth spur is very small for a GT, i recomend bringing your truck to your LHS and asking for the biggestr cluch bell and see if it fits..work your way down from there...but i sugest just ordering a new larger spur gear..some where arounf the 64-66 tooth range.

[Grant Tokumi]

Todd,
If you want to acquire the same ratio as the stock GT 15 clutch/66 spur setup, then you'll need a 13 tooth clutch bell to go with your 55 tooth spur. I'm not sure if they sell clutchbells that small though. If you use the stock 15 tooth clutchbell with your 55 spur, it will be VERY slow off the line, and will heat up and strain your clutch, however, you will have some insane top speed once it gets going.

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

the stock 15 th spur gear doesn't even mess with the 55 spur.... So i dunno. i have a 64 th spur right now but with the 55 it will make my gt haul. so i want to find a spur large enough...


thanks for the help though,

TODD fishingguy33424@aol.com

[TRXboy]

Todd- a 20 tooth might be usable, im not to shure tho, just remeber....with a gearing that high you might have insane top end...but whats the point if you dont have enough room to get it up to speed...

[morfeeis]

anyone out there have the hpi 15 ss pull start motor cause i need help

let me tell u what happen i have been in the garage with the truck all day i have been have a problem with it starting and reving all the way up and i dont know what happen i have took it back to factory settings (i think dont have any instructions used the one off hpi's site) so far i have changed the linkage tan high end but still nothing

can any one help me

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

TRXboy,

trust me i have enough speed to get my truck up to full speed if i can fit that spur on. my friends dad is a farmer and uses the planes to spray bug spray and has a run way that is like 300 yds long.......

i am going to the lhs on monday i will tell you all on tuesday how fast my truck gets up to. (uncle a cop!!!!!) lol

todd fishingguy33424@aol.com

[FodderMech]

Hi all, I just got into RC racing, and bought a RC10GT factory team kit. I have a futaba JR fm radio and upgraded my stearing servo, put in an MIP clutch, broke and replaced my front skid plate (is that what it is called). Im wondering what kinda upgrades i should get to make it a little tougher to break(not big wrecks yet in 7 weeks of racing each weekend, but...) How do you guys like the Ball bearing steering??? I'm thinking that might be my next mod.
-Fodder

[FodderMech]

Okay all you RC10GT gurus. Here is what happened at the races tonite. I installed an in-line screen-type fuel filter about 3 weeks ago. I've had problems stalling out ever since. I had it rigged so the fuel line wraped around the top of the fuel tank(where the filter was mounted) and around into the carb. I fanally got fed up with losing races due to stalls (as opposed to my bad driving) so I pulled the thing off and just went direct to the carb. Of course now my rig works great, but I kinda like having a filter. So how do I rig it so it won't cause me to flame out???? I suspect that since i had it on top of the fuel tank, I was getting an air bubble in the the filter or something causing flow problems, but I have really no Idea. Do you think it would help to run the fuel lines so the filter was down low to sorta "prime" it?? Or should I just wad the **** thing up and toss it in the trash!
By the way now it's runing again, I'm in loce with my GT again. I should post a pic and show off my tiger stripes lol
Please help out a newbie :)
-FodderMech

[TRXboy]

Fodder- take apart the fuel filter and check for any gunk stuck in there, also, altho i run a fuel flter unless running in really dirty condishions i wouldent bother, your tank already has one.

[FodderMech]

TRX thanks amigo, I think you are right... Leave it off, but what do you suppose caused my flameouts. I made sure the thing was on the right direction and was nice and clean (cleaned with nitro wash) it was pretty much brand new outa the box(ie clean) when the problem started. Do you thing placing the filter as low as I can relative to the fuel tank would help??

[RC10GTMark]

I've always had trouble with fuel filters so I just stopped using them and kept to the stock tank.

Todd, if a 15 tooth clutch bell doesn't mesh, the the pitch is off. GT gears are 32 pitch I believe, the number of teeth shouldn't really matter unless you have like a 100th spur and a 5 tooth pinion. Get the same pitch on each gear and you should be ok.

To the guy who had the problems with the truck starting and reving all the way up. Turn your electronics completely off. Start it up. If it idles then your throttle servo is prolly messed up. I spilt some fuel on the chassis and in leaked in my throttle servo, and when ever I put power to it, and started the motor, it would rev wide open until I shut it off.

[Bodido]

Here's a link to some questions answered on RRP's site.
They cover what gear combos work on the GT. It's the second to last question. http://www.robinsonracing.com/tips.html

[ 06-17-2001: Message edited by: Bodido ]

[GTboy]

Foddermech:

About the fuel filters. I always use one and have no problems at all. A extra fuel filter is good insurance as I've seen the stock tank one let dirt get thru and then you know what happens after that. I mount mine on top of the silicone header/pipe coupler with a tie strap. The fuel line runs from the tank around the head and back to the carb inlet.

As to your flaming out, 90% of all flameouts are caused by a too lean low end carb setting. A fuel filter will have nothing to do with flaming out unless its plugged up or installed backwards or it is not designed to allow enough fuel to get thru ( very tiny inlet).

:)

[TRXboy]

yeah GTboy got it, i would say you ran to lean with the fuel filter(Or the fuel filter leaned it out some) I say give it one more go with the fuel filter on and richen it up O so little, then see if that stops your problems.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Leinzey, the GT is a great basher IMO. You'll like how fast it is, and how easy you can clean the truck, because of it's open chassis layout. The truck is a good jumper and is very durable. Just give it a once over before you go out, and you shouldn't have many problems.

[atm92484]

Ahhh I just got back from vacation. Its great to be back. Ya I guess they did take out the stuff about the NMT instead of closing the whole post. Anyways like GTMan said the GT is a great truck on the track and in the woods.

[RC10GTMark]

I play with mine on a BMX track alot. Im also in the process of watercooling my GT, and making an insane jump course to put trxboy to shame. I want the idiodic jumping title =)

[TRXboy]

I never know i owned a tital but..if you insist....

[ 06-17-2001: Message edited by: TRXboy ]

[FodderMech]

I asked some guys at the track about the filter (yeah, yeah I know... move on from the **** filter already ...) Anyhow they thought since I mounted the thing on the top of my tank (under the pressure exhaust loop out of my pipe) that it was too high and was collecting air pockets to collect in the filter body causing fuel starvation. Do you think there is anything to that? I thought about reinstalling it so it was even with the bottom of my tank (so it wouldn't be able to collect air. By the way... When my truck sits upside down a few seconds (waiting for a corner marshal to un-turtle me...) doesn't a plug of air run through my fuel line toward the carb? and if so, what happens to it and why doesn't it make me flameout??? I don't know squat about 2 stroke carbs :) I ask because I was wondering how this might work into my filter dilemma... adding the filter caused me to add bout 4 inches of extra fuel line to mount it right. (a loop around the top of the tank and then into my carb) Maybe the flameouts have something to do with the extra fuel line???
-Fodder

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I don't use filters anymore, since there's one in the tank, but you might want to try routting the line around the back of the head, instead of on the tank. I don't know why it's acting up when it's mounted on top of the tank. I've seen lots of cars with your setup and they have no problems. You should just ditch the inline filter IMO. About the flipped over thing, I don't think a bubble goes to the engine. My truck can stay on its back for a looong time before it cuts, but I think that's because the gas gets low in the tank.

Anybody notice that Railman hasn't posted in a quite a while? He used to be a regular, geuss he's moving the shop like he said...

[Leinzey]

Hey, I'm considering getting a FTGT, how good of a basher is it? I will be racing, but most of my timw will be spent running with my friends in the woods near my house.

[RC10GTMark]

Railman owns a shop? A hobby shop or like a car shop?

I think you'll be plunty safe to ditch the filter. I dont run one and haven't had a problem in the dirtiest of conditions. Just be a little carefull with the fuel when u put it in. A new gas tank only costs like 7 bucks, replace it ever once and a while, and you have a new filter =). I just wash mine out with water and let it dry...

[GTboy]

Mark:

Just a reply to the fuel filter. I'm just a old opininated *******! Hate spending money!LOL!

[RC10GTMark]

Hey just a thought, not sure how good or bad this would work. What if you took a foam filter like outta an old gas tank and put a perfect sized portion inside some fuel tubing.

It wouldn't restrict flow because it is used inside the gas tank. If it gets to dirty, just take it out and put more in. No air would get in it that isn't already in the line and it wont leak. It cant get sucked into your carb either.

Just an idea, dunno how well it would work...

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

Mark,


try it. i dunno if it will work and won't the engine **** the filter it to the carb i dunno i am a dumb person.

Trxboy,


i think your right that the 20t clutch bell will fit on to the gt and work with my 54t spur.


todd

[Rc1oGtMaN]

That's a really good thought. The only way to find out if it will work is to try it. It would probably be a pain to cut that piece exactly to the size you need, and then shove it into the fuel line.

Yeah, Railman owns a shop. He said he had to move it, and I asked him what kind of store it was. He said they sell and make handrails.

[RC10GTMark]

Ahhh handrials.. maybe where his rail man name came from =)

[Jace2000]

And all this time I thought he liked railguns. I thought he was a hard core Quake player. :D

[TRXboy]

LOL@JACE!

[GT burner]

Hey guys! My fuel tank tends to lean itself out when it gets lower than half tank. This makes a ton of power, but I can't figure out what is causing it. It will only wheelie when it has this condition Could it be the shaking of the fuel in the tank forming air bubbles from driving? Any thoughts?

[Gokou]

Heh... 4 years ago I was in the #2 clan in the OGL for Quake 2. :D

I might have some cool videos to upload in a day or two if I can find the drivers for my capture card. I bashed around for a few hours today in the yard. I broke another set of RPM body mounts (both front and back!) and tore through my body at the mounting points. Oops. Some cool jumps, wheelies that go over backwards which then slide on the roof for 50 feet or so, and then the piece de la resistance... "El Rampo Del Fuego." I'll leave it at that. :p

[RC10GTMark]

Maybe when you get to half a tank your truck gets lighter, making you run faster. lol. it is prolly what you said, air gets in it from shaking around and it leans out some.

Watch the temp on your truck.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

It could be the vibrations causing air bubbles. Make sure the tank is on three orange o rings, and isn't just bolted to the chassis. Check your fuel lines too. You might not see any holes, but it would probably be a good idea to replace those. Make sure the carb's o rings aren't busted, and make sure the carb is on tight and everything is sealed. I think that's all the things that could leak air into the mix...

[BlackWolf]

Gokou: I was a Quake2 Lithium Fanatic.

I managed to get into the top 100 for a while in that universal ranking thing. I forgot the name of it. It's been a long time..

I was =QCAD=BlackWolf and PuppyChow . . .

I was a god with my 64K ISDN back in the day. I had to give up online gaming because everybody had OC-192's :)

I still have ISDN. I've had it for 5 years now, and I don't envision getting rid of it anytime soon. Too much money. I don't even have enough cash to pay for my RC habbit.

[TRXboy]

<---wish's he had a video recorder...

Gokou- whats your addy?

[Bodido GT]

Black Wolf: QCAD ? Was this the same clan that had Failsafe, Starfish, etc... ?

[Skateboarder]

Its so cool, I finaly finished building my ft gt.This truck is so cool, I love and all the blue part make it look amazing the only thing that was bad was the screws to hold the engine to the engine mounts were no there and the movie that came with it was all messed up(sound, picture) but eveything elso was cool.
I cant wait to try this thing ;)
Oh and my spur geat also ribs the suspension arm, should I just let it wear its self in or do I have to adjust something.
Thanks
Ps, Im now a gt'er :)whoohoo

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

Skateboarder,

i had that same thing happen to me about the spur rubbing what i did i turn the spur around and it doesn't rubb anymore... hope that helps.

todd

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

Mark,

what ever id happen to your forum just for the rc10gt and stuff about it?? Try to make another one.. So i can be a moderator agian haha i dunno. here if anyone wants to see how good mark's board is here:

http://www.marks-hardware.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/ikonboard.cgi

todd

[TRXboy]

skateborder- thats a commen problem with associated spur gears, you can ether let it sled where down(No biggi)or buy a robinson spur which runs alot truer.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Skateboarder, the engine mounting screws aren't included in the it. I think I used some medium length 4-40's for my engine. Don't mount the engine with extra aluminum screws because they are too weak. Just let the spur gear rub the arm.

Yeah, Mark, I tried using your forum a while ago, but when I would post it wouldn't work, so I gave up.

[Skateboarder]

Cool thanks guys, Ill change those screws as soon as possible and just let the spur rub.
One more question, with stock gearing and a os .15 hyper would I be able to beat a .21 T-maxx in a drag race.
Thanks

[RC10GTMark]

Yea you should be able to beat the tmaxx. The forum had alot of bugs in the begining, and I fixed most of them but no body really posted so I just let it sit.

If anyone wants me to start it up, let me know and ill work on it.

[TC3 Mclaren F1]

wow this is one huge topic. omg

[RC10GTMark]

it is isnt it

[TC3 Mclaren F1]

yes it is, so im guessing your here right now

[RC10GTMark]

no but i am now. =)

[carl_77]

What kind of maintenance should I give to the new sealed bearings??? Do I need to oil them at all?

[RC10GTMark]

Where are the bearings? In your wheels, clutch, tranny or somewhere else? Either way I would oil them every so often. Especially the clutch bearings.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Unless you are racing on the pro level, don't do anything to the bearings. They are packed with grease, and might be stiff for a while, but just break them in. If you want maximum performance, then spray them with motor spray, and oil them up.

[RC10GTMark]

OMG. I got a cv-r so my associated motor is just sitting here. Well no better way to learn to port and polish accept trying. Well first off im gonna try on the sleeve. Instead of using a dremel with an unsteady hand, I used a bench grinder with slightly corse wheel. I made a jig to hold the sleeve in place, and I have a water jet to cool the metal while it is cut. I just kept it steady on the bottom of the intake ports and made one cut, instead of the normal 50 different angle cuts you get when you dremel it.

I did the same to the boost port. The exhaust port I put a 45 degree angle in the bottom edge of it with the same grinder. Then I used a really soft wire brush to clean up the already clean cuts, the polished the entire sleeve with braso.

It looks professionally cut by a CNC mill. **** it looks really good, im gonna try cutting the connecting rod tomarrow. You gotta see it, ill get pictures tomarrow and some performance tests as soon as I can mount it in my truck again, i need a pull starter for it. After the conn rod comes the crank =)

[carl_77]

ok thanks for info. I'll try that.

[rcracer38]

Ok, I bought my son his first RC car and it was the RTR GT10. I wish I had the extra $$ to purchase the Factory one, but didn't. I got it for a good price $250.00. So I thought it was worth it. Now we want to do some upgrades on it and was wondering what we should upgrade first? Steering servo, cvd's, ball bearings? Any input would be great.

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

rcracer,

I would upgrade to ball bearings cause they un alot smoother. But every now and then they need a lube job. So that shoul be the first upgrade then up grade to cvd's, trust me they are worth it. Then upgrade to a smaller spur gear like a 54t spur gear but ypu have to buy a 20t clutch bell made by Robinson Racing Products. After Those upgrades you rc10gt shuold be flying down the street...


todd

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

Oh yeah that reminds me,

everyone when i got my new 20t clutch bell and put it on my cv-r i went over to my friend's dad's runway and i let my beast rip.
My uncle was there to record the speed on his speed gun since he is a cop and i was going around 49.3 mph was my fastes.........

[RC10GTMark]

I wouldn't upgrade to a smaller spur gear just yet, get used to the truck with the power it has, especially if it is your sons first truck. Ball Bearings and CVD's are both good ideas for upgrades.

The stock servo should be fine for now, even if he wants to do a little racing, the front end is light and the hightec servo is a good one. If you ever break a hightec servo they will replace it for free.

Save up some money to get another set of tires, you stockers will not last. Get your self a reciever cover or use a ballon to protect the reciever and you should be really happy with the kit. If he happens to break body mounts or A-Arms, I suggest replacing them with RPM beefy plastic arms, they are only 6 bucks, and they are really strong.

[RC10GTMark]

RCRacer,

Ill port and polish your sleeve crank and connecting rod in your sons motor. I have pictures of my work and I just did it to my backup motor, the AE .15 and it works great, loads more power.

Next up comes my cv-r, but I think ill leave it alone.

[atm92484]

Ya get bearings. Spend the extra money and get a set of sealed ones though so you don't have to worry about as much maintaince. CVDs are also nice but I'd get a new set of tires first. Also make sure you have a few extra glow plugs on hand, some extra fuel tubing, and 1 or 2 extra spur gears.

As for the spur gear don't go down to a 54/20 combo. Thats way too high for a truck. I've done 56/22 before and its fast but there is no acceleration and offroad you'd have no power plus it would heat your engine up really quickly. If you plan on changing the gearing make sure you get Robinson Racing spur gears (they are much better than stock). Right now I'm running a 65/18 on my FT GT and its plenty fast.

[Grant Tokumi]

Todd,
Wow, thats some AWESOME speed runs there. Those tires must have expanded to twice their diameter going that fast, maybe even came off the rim. Looks like your gearing fits your drag racing style of playing.

Hmmm. Maybe another alternative to remove tires off rim is to overgear as much as possible with available gear sizes and let er rip.

[Grant Tokumi]

BTW, get ready for alot of side scrolling. Clickable page numbers (the thing you click to go from page 1 to page 53) are going to end up off the screen in the near future. That on my 1152x864 resolution anyways.

[rcracer38]

Thanks for the input. Sounds like I will get getting bearings and CVD's. I already purchased a set of street slicks. I guess I should get the Robinson Racing bearings?? Do they make em'?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Speaking of bearings, Boca Bearings is going to start making bearings kits and they are giving rewards to people who can provide them with the correct bearing measurements for the kits. Go to Boca's website, (http://www.bocabearings.com/hobby/rewards.cfm) and check out what measurements they want. I sent them twelve sets of sizes, and they are sending me two mousepads, a $10 discount coupon, and some nice bearing lube. Now my bearings are gonna spin for forever; I just wish it could help my driving...

You should definately buy bearings. Rubber sealed ones last the longest from lube to lube, and teflon sheilded spin the best. CVD's are also a nice upgrade. Get the steel ones. I think steel CVD's are about $25. It's hard to feel a difference between the three types, so why not save some money? A chassis upgrade might be a good idea, too. The stock RTR plate is made of unobtanium, which is heavier and weaker than the aluminum ones on the team and factory team versions. Aluminum chassis go for about 40 bucks.

Grant, soon the side-to-side scroll bar will look like the top-to-bottom scroller. :D

[sploof]

Just acquired a RC10GT, but it didn't have a manual with it. Does anyone know where a PDF or on-line version can be found? Thanks

[RC10GTMark]

You can get pdf's from www.rc10.com (http://www.rc10.com) associated's website.

I wonder if I can jack my transmission up some, use longer cvd's and get like a 82 tooth spur and a 10 tooth pinion. I bet my top speed would be like 10mph =)

[sploof]

Mark, Associated's site only has setup sheets and parts listings (that I've found) available for free. The manual you have to purchase. Being a wee bit impatient means I'd like to find the manual online. Thanks

[atm92484]

One other thing; try to get bearings and CVDs at the same time so you can get 3/16" axles in the rear. If you do the bearings first then you'll still have the 1/4" axles and you'll need 1/4" bearings. The problem with the 1/4"ers (atleast I've heard of this) is the balls aren't as big so they can't handle the output of these 1+ BHP engines and the bearings explode. With the 3/16" the balls are bigger and they can better handle the load.

[RC10GTMark]

Elf, sorry I dunno where to get them. Do you have to assemble the entire truck or just parts, im sure we can help on here.

[illbreakit]

Does that mean that my team gt has bigger balls than a RTR LOL :eek:

[Big Wig]

Hi all!

I'm getting the elctronics for my GT today!!! I'm exited to finish my truck!

I have a question: In the June issue of RCCA on page 138 (Under the Hood), There are pics of Richard Saxton's GT. What kind of receiver cover is he using? I NEED to get one of those. Also, notice how heavy the wire is on his Rx pack? I ordered a Trinity Rx pack and I plan to put a Dean's plug on it,... how much of a project would it be to replace the wire all together?

thanks
Jay

[TRXboy]

Bigwig, i am not to shure about the wire thing, but the reciver cover is a HPI i think...The reciver "Bar" or protecter. that metel peice that hooks on to the throtel servo is cutem made.

[RC10GTMark]

The aluminum plate he made him self. The wiring wouldn't be hard to replace at all with a soldering iron, but I see no need to replace it. I took my stock wires and put them through a tube similar to the antenna tube but larger in diameter, same strengh. I run that the lenght of the car and it protects my wires fine.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Thanks for that little tip, Mark. I usually shink rap all the wires together, but they would be protected much better if they were in a tube, as you mentioned. Did you take the connectors off, run the wires through the tube, and then put the connectors back on?

[atm92484]

Take a piece of fuel tubing and slit it down the center length wise then just slide the wiring into that. Thats all I've ever done to protect the wire coming from the battery.

[BlackWolf]

I got an extra throttle and brake linkage. I fitted the original Novarossi slide carb onto my MT12. Since I got the engine, I have been using the Picco P12 rotary carb.

Now I really have to say, the engine has WAAAAY TOOO much power for a little offroad car like the GT. Wow, I'm impressed with the slide carbs, and I'm not easy to please. The mixtures are much steadier, and they hold much better. The engine is cooler along with all of the power it picked up.

I think I'm going to get a restrictor, preferably the most restrictive one made that will fit in the novarossi carb :) Let me have some part numbers please.

Any advise on using the extra juice to my advantage? :) Please don't say practice, and better tyres - because if thats it, I'm SOL. The MT12 will go nicely on my MTX2 if I ever get it...

please advise

[RC10GTMark]

RC10GTMan I just cut the tub length wise (pain in the butt) and slid it over the wire, then put zip ties every couple inches.

Speaking of carbs, even tho it is a little off subject, I put the assciated .15 carb on a trx .15 pro, I noticed a HUGE difference. My tmaxx did wheelies on wet concrete and it holds it tune MUCH better. The trx .15 isn't so bad once you put a decent carb on it.

I wanna throw my cv-r in the tmaxx next and see what it will do =).

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Mark, T-Maxx + CV-R = something go boom. It's will be insane. You'll wheelie really fast into a wall or something...

I think I'll slide the fuel tubing over the wires instead of plastic. Shrink wrap just doesn't cut it. There's a lot I'm trying to do to my truck. I almost have it fixed and running again. I just need a starter box and a piston and sleeve.

[RC10GTMark]

What kinda motor do you have that u need the piston and sleeve for?

[GTboy]

Blackwolf:

I know I have a little less horsepower than your MT12 but I have a couple of C12's for my FTGT with a slide carb. I use a blue AE restrictor and the Nova Rossi touring pipe. I get way smoother feel with this combo. The top end is fabulous at 200-210. I did run the GT pipe but it was to much to soon and no top end. I still have all the bottom end I need and I'll drag race anybody if I have to!

:)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Mark, I need a piston and sleeve for my OS CV-X. I'm fed up with my pullstarter, so I'm getting a starter box too. Anybody know of a good 1/8 box with a 12v motor that accepts GT's? That would be a dream. Those boxes start anything. I'm also thinking about buying a CV-R, but that probably won't happen for a long time, if it even does. (You know, I'm the open to donations. I'm the head representative for the "Donate R/C parts and engines to Mark Opelka Foundation", :D so anything that you would like to donate, I'll take. If there's an extra CV-R or 1/8th scale starter box anywhere, I have a nice home for it...) Mark, how are the engine mods coming out? I modded my CV about 4 months, and had bad results. I went balistic with the dremel. CV's do very well with a little rounding on the ports, but I made gigantic channels for the fuel to flow down. The engine made tons of power, but I had five minute (maybe less) run times. It was baaad. :( So the CV's been on the shelf, while I've been playing with my trusty .15 FE. The OS's carb brings some life to the FE, so it's not so bad.

[user_name?]

any one have problems with mip's 4n1 clutch?
i have a problem with it, it wont engage when i give it throlel. i first thought it was because it wasnt wormed up, but i lett it worm up and it still happend. could it be that i haft to strech the spring a littel?

i cleaned every thing with brake cleaner to. so i dont know please help :confused:

[BlackWolf]

Edwards:

1st off, it's a REALLY BAD idea to use brake cleaner to clean anything on an RC car. It eats almost everything RC. If you are using brake cleaner, I hope you're using the NON-CHLORINATED type! The majority of the NON-chlorinated (no thrichlor) cleaners have methanol, ethanol, hexane, isohexanes, etc...

Honestly, Trinity's 'Nitro-Blast' nitro cleaner is the above mentioned NON-Chlorinated brake cleaner.

I've bought non-trichlor brake cleaner, and it's a bit more expensive than the Trinity stuff. Trinity must get a good deal on it from Hi-Port Aerosol, Inc. because nitroblast runs on average $5.99 USD, while it from Hi-Port is much more for the same amount

I worship Trinity's NitroBlast nitro neutralizer. It's the BEST thing since sliced bread!

As for your clutch issue; make sure the clutch nut is tightened down. It sounds to me like the crankshaft is not spinning flywheel because the clutch-nut isn't cinched down enough...

[Big Wig]

Thanks guys for your replies regarding my Q's about Richard Saxton's car!

I know he made that guard himself,... check this out:

http://www.massnh.com/seaveymachine/haas10.gif

This is just one of many machines in my basement :D I should be able to make a decent guard ;)

(mods: this is not spam, I have no interest in mentioning my company name on this BB. I thought some of the folks might get a kick out of this pic)

TRXboy mentioned that the Rx cover might be an HPI product, does anyone know this for sure? Does anyone use this same cover? If so, could I have the part number?

Also, I ordered a Trinity Nitro Metal Hydride Rx pack from Horizon. On their web site they specify which pack to buy for an RC10 GT. Of course I bought that one :mad: It is a flat stick pack and hangs over the edges of the rear bumper by 1/2" on each side! Should I keep this or send it back and get a hump pack? Also, should I use that thick foam on the bumper or just put the Rx pack right on the plastic?

thanks
Jay

[ 06-22-2001: Message edited by: Big Wig ]

[BlackWolf]

What make is that machine? Fanuc, Mitotoyo, Okuma, etc?

I'm really interested in learning machining. Starting out on the little bridgeport, and going from there as i learn it.. very cool to know. Knowing it gets you the best looking women too :p

Man, gotta be a real RC fanatic if you're going to drop a half a million on a machine to make bumbers :p

[ 06-22-2001: Message edited by: BlackWolf ]

[aspiringrcracer710]

I am looking for a good GT setup, can you guys help??

[Big Wig]

BlackWolf,

Fanuc and Mitutoyo don't make machines, Fanuc makes controls and Mitutoyo makes inspection equipment. My VMC is a HAAS with a HAAS control. This control is very similar to a Yasnac or Fanuc control. Oh, and a 16 x 30 VMC costs no where near a 1/2 million bucks LOL

Did anyone see my post in the "RC Zone suggestions" forum? I think we GTers should have our own forum instead of making this HUGE thread any bigger. What do you all think?

I'll check back in here later, I really hope someone here has some answers to my questions :confused:

thanks again
Jay

[atm92484]

That would be cool but then all the people would want one. Ya this topic proves that we would use it but then you'd have people complaining.

[Big Wig]

Maybe they could use the top 3 or top 5 vehicle threads and give them their own forums. The rest of the threads could still exist the way they are.

there's no arguing that this thread is the most popular ;)

[BlackWolf]

Bigwig:

Ok, it goes to show what I know as of now. I worked with a friend of mine who is an Industrial/Commercial electrician who specializes in control stuff. Fanuc and was one of those names that stuck in my head from being up to my eyebrows in wires, starters, etc at the rear end of of the somthing Seiki machines. I want to say Mugen, but.. you know :)

[BlackWolf]

YES!! I think the GT'ers should have their own forum where we can post individual threads instead of just potentiating an allready huge single thread. This board would be so much better if they would DITCH UBB! I love VBulletin. You love VBulletin. It's the best thing since Trinity Nitro blast :p Why can't this forum be run effeciently?

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

I was thinking about making my own buseiness selling custom rc10gt parts as well as nrs4 parts but i dunno where i can find graphite sheets does anyone here know where i can find graphite sheets????? if so please tell me once i start making them you can have some free parts...........


thanks,
todd fishingguy33424@aol.com

[atm92484]

Brent actually you don't. Just because its a non-pullstart engine doesn't mean you need a non-pullstart mounts and flywheel. All they will do is lower the center of gravity. The pullstart stuff makes the engine site higher so the recoil unit doesn't slam off of the ground.

[RC10GTMark]

DAAAMNN forum has gotten busy overnight. Hey would you guys mind machining me some parts?? :D

LOL how do you like the 15FE with the OS Carb? I put an associated carb on the .15 trx pro and that thing flys, plunty of low end. I ordered my cooling head and found that it will fit my AE .15. Im gonna mount it on that and I also ported and polished my motor (the AE one, wouldn't touch the cv-r). I wanna go outside and start it up but I sold my PS stuff, so I gotta buy mounts, manifold, flywheel and thats it I think.

As far as converting to Non P/S you dont really have to have the engine mounts and flywheel, the P/S flywheel is taller because the mounts are taller, and with the mounts being taller your only disadvantage is high center of gravity, I dont think you'll even notice though.

With my AE .15 I used a start box even tho it was setup for P/S. Also my starter box is kinda weak so I put the P/S flywheel on my CV-R because it is bigger, and a bigger flywheel makes it easy to turn over that motor with so much compression.

Once I loosened the cv-r back up I put the non p/s flywheel on so I had more grip on the wheel, it is wider.

[RC10GTMark]

My next project will be modifiying my trx .15 pro some more, and im gonna rip apart the tmaxx trany and see if anything in there could be improved on =)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Mark, the FE with the OS carb is great. I think it puts out around .7 - .8 HP with the OS carb. It's really nice. The FE gets HOT down here with the cast head.

Todd, there was a post about where to get carbon fiber a while ago in the General Discussion Forum. Do a search there - I think prices for a 1'X 1' sheet were around 30 bucks. If you make a graphite receiver box, I'll give you my first born ;) .

[stormperson]

i have the PS flywheel and mounts, however i started my first tank of break in, and it was odd the tank only lasted maybe 3 minutes of running, when i broke in my cvx it lasted over 10.

anyway it kept dying, however i made small adjustments and it got better, i have my highspeed at around 2.7 turns out and my low speed, i just realized i have no clue...

anyway, i get towards the end of the tank and it keeps dying so i put more fuel in, try to start it, and the flywheel assembly came loose, and off. should i thread lock the screw thingie that goes onto the crankshaft?

and is it okay to leave the glow ingiter on during break in, to keep it from dying?

thanks!

[RC10GTMark]

Yes it is fine to leave the glow igniter on. If it keeps dying at idle, try messing with the low end.

I always use lock tite medium on my clutch nut. I get it as tight as I can by hand, then I grip the flywheel with a pair of channel locks and use a socket and crank down on the clutch nut until it is tight, then like another 1/2 to 1/4 turn tigher. Never had problems with it coming off :D

Hey GTMan is it humid down there, im not to far from you, couple hundred miles west. It isn't humid up here but on the ground i've gotten temps of 150 on blacktop. It gets plunty hot, but my motors still manage.

[GTInFlames]

hey guys, new to the board. I am going to buy a truck soon, I have a good amount of knowledge, though. I was wondering if anyone has a Team Built GT and how they like it...I like that I can buy my own engine and it looks like a great truck for the price, thanx, Bryan :cool:

[TyCo_RaCer_MaN]

Rc1oGtMaN,

I found a company that sells graphite sheets and graphite blocks for like asheet is 2'x3' is only 7.00$ (us) which is realy cool. Once i get the graphite material in i am gunna try to design and make a Recevier box. I will GIVE you my first one if it goes well. Anyway i am gunna make rc10gt aarms, Shocktowers, chassises (1/6 of an inch thick), and tranny braces too. i am also gunna make parts for Nrs4's to.


Todd fishingguy33424@aol.com

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Awesome, do you want me to pay shipping? Dynamite makes a receiver box for the T-Maxx, and I think it's a good design: null (http://www.horizonhobby.com/description.asp?prod=DYN7623&ThisPage=&Item=&refer=&category=D). The Maxx receiver box is too big, so maybe you should try an copy the size of a Mugen MBX 4RR box. Thanks a lot - the firstborn is yours. (when I get married)

[wojo65]

What setting should i use on my ftgt, this is my first nitro, i have the idle set fine just cant get the high and low end needles
:rolleyes:

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Wojo, what engine do you have? After breaking it in, go a bit leaner than the factory settings.

Aspiring Racer, what's your track like? We listed our setups a long time ago. (Pages 10-20 maybe?) Just read over the entire thread, because you'll find all kinds of info, and the setups.

[atm92484]

GtMaN, thats like asking someone to read the Grapes of Wrath. :D This thread has gotten huge.

If Associated were to make a 2nd (or whatever you want to call it) generation GT what improvements would you guys want to see? I think I'd like to see atleast a radio box and a better linkage set. It would be nice if they were to throw a RRP spur gear in to replace the factory ones but I doubt this would happen.

[ 06-22-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[TRXboy]

anybody have anygood needle settings for the CV-R my csin decided to have some fun with my needle's the other day and i had no clue what they where at (All i knew was that it ran GOOD) and now im having problems, the engine just dosent have any Power. I Dont know if i will get to respond to this, im leaving for 6 days to go away.Hop i get some responsis intime.thanks guys.

[stormperson]

just some quick questions:

i just got the starter box today, and later today i will be getting all the non pullstart parts, and of course a os cvr.

however i got the ofna true start thinking i wouldnt need anything else, however it doesnt include a charger, so i went out into my garage and found one from sears that i have used on car batteries, anyway its currently charging the battery at a 2 amp rate, it also has a 10 and 50 rate, any suggestions as to how long i should leave it on for and at what rate? (also this weekend i plan on getting a real charger, however i have to break in the os before race day)

also i widened the hole in the bottom of the chassis for the starter's wheel, as it said to in a rcca article, i only did it maybe 2-4mm overall, and stuck it on the starter box, i only heard a small sound of it shaving, however i figure it will never go down that much anyway since the flywheel will be in the thing.

just wondering if anyone has any overall suggestions or tips as to converting a gt from pullstart to non. thanks!

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Nick, Mark has a CV-R and he usually gets on late at night, so you could be in luck.

ATM, lol. I know what you mean. I'd like to see a thicker chassis. The layout of the truck is great IMO, and a receiver box is a must. Or, AE could ad a guard like Richard Saxton's as standard equipment. A colaboration with MIP, and RRP would do the truck some good. They could use MIP's zero maitenance steering, and RRP's spur and pinion gears. New and improved body mounts are also at the top of my list. I like the reverse mounting fuel tanks, and would like to see an aluminum tranny brace. Too bad most of those things would really boost the price of the truck :( .

[Brent F]

I hate to burst your bubble but to convert a gt to non pull start you have to have a new fly wheel and engine mount :( that is unless something has changed. Sorry

[RC10GTMark]

Im here. Trxboy, try this, put the low end needle flush with the housing, then put it in about 1/4 turn to 1/3 turn. Put the high end needle 2 1/2 turns out and start it up, it should run but prolly wont idle.

Lean the low end till it will idle, then drive the truck, it will prolly bog. Lean the top end out until you get it were you need it. You should be fine from there.

The top end works off the low end, so you have to get the low end right first, and if it idles ok, then the low end should be good.

A good idle will be kinda low, and it wont blurp if you tap the throttle. But with the rich top end it will bog any more than half throttle.

Remember that you gotta drive it to tune it, sitting it on the bench and reving it wont do.

As for improvments on the truck I definately like the reciever box and the linkage, and I haven't had a problem with body mounts since I went to rpm. Spur gears dont gemme much problems either, but I haven't used a RRP gear so im not sure.

I would like to see screws that go into the plastic have corser threads, not machine screws. They strip out way to easy, and raddle loose pretty fast.

[TRXboy]

Thanks mark, i have to mark this page down so i know where to look when i come back...and just for refrence on the reciver box', i use traxxas' rear bummper battery bix, with a little moding it works great.

check out my chassis shots of my GT here (http://members.tripod.com/pitmonkey911/index.htm) to see what it looks like, thanks again mark.

as for improvment, i would like to see a little better wiegh distrabution to get more steering respose..but i dunno...im worryed about this new mugen truck..can you say pivot ball?

TRXboy singing out.

[ 06-23-2001: Message edited by: TRXboy ]

[RC10GTMark]

No problem nick. I think AE should suprise us with one big mod. That would be sweet, like a change to the steering like mugen =)

I like your truck, mine needs some pretting up, she's a little dirty
:D

[ 06-23-2001: Message edited by: Mark ]

[stormperson]

who here still uses the stock brakes? (just wondering, after i saw trx's picture i realized that i had upgraded from stock and just wondering what everyone else did)

[atm92484]

I still use the stock brakes. They work well for me. The only upgrade is adding the blue aluminium brake hex but thats stock on the Factory Team.

Ya guys I'm worried about this Mugen also. I guess if its an awesome truck we'll be adding a Mugen whatever its called forum. Oh wait nevermind I'm sticking with my GT unless this Mugen is REALLY good.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Nick, I don't know about changing the weight bias of the truck. It suites my driving style, and putting weight up front (which will take from the back) will make the truck drive like a XXXNT. I'm cool with AE weighting the front down, but I want top keep the rear traction just how it is. Have you tried putting the battery box on the batteries? What truck is that box for? Stampede?

The mugen truck sounds really good. I wonder how much it will cost. If my LHS starts stocking parts for the Mugen, I'll definately buy it.

[RC10GTMark]

I too might buy one, but I wouldn't give up my GT. The GT has worked so long for me not about to start now. It survived the release of other trucks, it can handle another.

[atm92484]

Just zip tie 2 oz of weights to the front body mount on the GT. I bought a pack of these Great Planes ones; they are meant for balancing airplanes but they work great on cars. From what I've seen the rear traction isn't effected but I have noticeably more steering.

[RC10GTMark]

I broke the radio tray once in the GT so I took my reciever and zip tied it to the back side of the shock tower. It gave me some more steering also.

[stormperson]

after a very frustrating day of trying to start my gt, i narrowed down the problem:

the starter box wont turn over the engine, i have the "rtr version of the ofna true start, and when its at a full charge it slowly turns over the flywheel, i mean it takes 20 seconds for one rotation. however i tried it with my finger, and there is ALOT of compression and thats without the glow plug on.

i tried heating it with a heat gun (twice as hot as a hair drier) and nothing happened, meanwhile i see smoke coming out of the starter box and the now so familar smell of burning electronics, when it strugles to turn it over. i also tried using my car battery and it didnt even move it.

i also tried it without the glow plug, it works okay, and the nitro coming out shoots up at least 2 feet. i was thinking it was hydro locking, however i was still able to turn it over, and its not like the fuel spitting up was any less as i let it go on.

by the way this is on a cvr.

any suggestions would be great, thanks!

[Rc1oGtMaN]

You might want to try using a friend's box with one of those heavy duty 12v motors. I'm sorry to here that you burned your motors and the CV-R is giving you trouble. What kind of starting motors does that box have? Dual 540's or 550's? Did you try starting the engine with the glow plug in very loose? That was one of the things I used to do when my engine was new.

Todd, about that carbon fiber you found: is it laminated? Just a reminder, since it would be a real hassle to laminate the sheets yourself.

[stormperson]

i will defently try that. since i think it was loose when i was able to get it to start the first time, however the glow plug was actually leaking.

also i think they are dual 540 motors, do you think its worthwhile to upgrade the motors in the starterbox?

since i dont have any friends that run gas, i might ask someone at the track tommorow to use their starterbox.

[atm92484]

Make sure the starter's wheel isn't rubbing against the chassis and if you have to bevel the edges of the chassis around the hole for the flywheel. This will give you a little more clearance plus it won't 'eat' the wheel up as bad if it does rub. I had this same problem and it turned out the wheel was just barely rubbing the chassis and this was wasting power.

[stormperson]

i actually used a file and also my dremel to widen the hole, and it doenst seem to be rubbing. and it doesnt seem to be wearing on the starter's wheel, however i will double check that.

[RC10GTMark]

I had the same problem with a box like yours, but mine is the dynamite rtr. Same motor too, I hooked the car battery to it and it helped though. Just push on the box and let the box spool up, then just do quick hits on the flywheel, one lucky hit and it will start if the motor is close to tune.

These motors are hella tight new, but they loosen up and it is all gravy =) lol.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Yeah, it probably would be worth it to upgrade the motors. 12v motors are the best, if you can fit it in the box. Do like Mark said and tap the car down a few times insted of holding it on the box. Holding it down is what burned your electronics. If you want to wear down the piston, I saw an article in RC-Car where they filled the engine with some type of lube (you should probably use after run oil for this) and then hooked the crankshaft up for a powerful drill. Then they just spun the crank for a while. Hope you can get your GT running soon. -Mark

[wojo65]

its a os.12cvx, i can get it going good but its not as fast as it should be, i dont know why i am running at 230 degrees and im not to rich maybe i should go leaner and increase the RPM's and then decrease it 1/16 of a turn and i should run fine, i will find out tommorow by the way FTGT'S RULE!!!!!! :D :cool:

[gokou]

Stormperson: I use the stock GT disk brake setup. I used to think it was mediocre when I used my cheapie JR Z250 servo for throttle/brake (55 oz-in torque). It could lock up the rears only at very low speed and didn't work too well at high speeds. Now with my Airtronics 357 servo (125 oz-in torque) I use for throttle/brake I can lock the rears up at any speed, even on grippy asphalt with my Road Rage IIs. A good strong servo really makes the stock brake come alive. Make sure the disk and the brake bracket/pad are clean and free of oil-- also, try sanding the disk with 300 grit sandpaper, my disk likes to glaze over after a few days of hard use and it doesn't grab as well. A quick resurfacing on sandpaper brings it right back to life.

I'm still working on getting my videos working... my capture software currently doesn't want to export the final edited movies. I've got some jumps (nothing like Nick's, but a good 5-6 feet off the ground with about 20-25 feet of distance), wheelies which go over backwards (so I can demonstrate how I break RPM rear body mounts :D), and a rather silly clip I'll simply call "El Ramp Del Fuego" for now. Hopefully I can get them up tomorrow, they're mildly entertaining. :p

[stormperson]

thanks for the advice i will try that out right before i go to the track, maybe even be able to break it in, in 3hours but doubtful.

i am currently using the crenzi or whatever it is called brake system, it doesnt lock up the wheels and its pretty much matience free which is nice. however it stops the car very nicely.

[RC10GTMark]

Gouku: What EXACTLY would I need to make a video, upload it to my computer, edit it, and upload it to the web. I have a fast connection and server space, that isn't a problem, I just dunno anything about video capture. Can I do it with my normal video camera or does it have to be digital?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I was told that the Crescenzi was a bad braking system. People say it take more force for a drum brake to make as much stopping power as the stock brake, which I use. Several people said that they didn't like the Crescenzi, and I didn't want to take a chance with a 30 dollar brake.

Anybody know of a good 1/8th scale starter box that accepts GT's? I want to buy a box, but no 1/10 scales have the big 12v starter motors. There's a big blue one in one of Bruckner's ads for about eighty. Maybe I'll check that out.

Mark, I'm not an expert with that cinematogrophy type stuff, but I think that you'd need AV jacks on your computer for a normal camera to plug into a computer. You'd probably have to buy some software to do editing and stuff.

[RC10GTMark]

Buy software, hahhahaah thats what cable is for my friend.

On the topic of brakes, a disk brake (stock) vs a dumb brake is hands down disk brake. Lets say you apply the same amound of pressure from the servo, the disk will stop faster. That is why performance full scale cars use disk over drum.

Just mess with different brake disk, try cross drilling your stock one, makes a difference.

[Gokou]

Mark-- you'll need a video capture board and editing software such as Adobe Premiere or Avid Cinema. I use Avid most of the time for my simple stuff as most of the work I do takes 1/10 the time to do in Avid compared to Premiere. Premiere is a much more powerful program however, but it is substantially more complex and difficult to use.

As for the capture boards, I don't know what the hot ticket is-- I haven't shopped for them in years. I have a Pinnacle board which is a few years old now, but still works ok for what I do (nothing professional, not by far). I'd do some reading before you purchase. Any board you buy should come with the software needed for editing. You don't need special eqipment either, I use my Canon Hi-8 camcorder and dump to the PC via S-Video. My card also has composite inputs (standard co-ax) so you can also capture from TV, VCR, etc. A digital camcorder with an IEEE-1394 FireWire port would be easier though, just get a FireWire card and dump directly to the computer-- no loss in quality because there is not an additional A/D conversion such as when you connect an analog camcorder to your PC. They are however more expensive.

[stormperson]

well i am happy, and i have run it for over an hour, still stops like it was new, through wet stuff too. its also alot easier ot disassemble stuff.

i went to the track today, got a half of a tank through my gt and then the nut/shaft that goes onto the crankshaft came off again, i used red threadlock it should stay put now.

funny thing happened to the lead acid battery that came with the starter box, i overcharger it and it actually bloated, like 3/4 of an inch, still works okay, however i am replacing it. thank god it didnt leak though.

also since these 540's can turn over the cvr without the running start method (having the starting box going and then blipping the flywheel down onto it) i am going to upgrade, i was thinking of p2k's due to a stock motors torque, however, anyone else have any suggestions?

gokou- as for the 1/8 starter box, make sure it can take the car so that the front wheel are on the right side and the back wheels on the left side, or vise versa, hard to expain, but make sure the starter's wheel can change position, from perpendiular to parrell, since you wont be able to fit it on in one direction, or at least thats what my friend said about his orange duratrax box and his nitro ruslter, which pretty much has the same set up.

however looking around the track today, most people ran a different starterbox for their 1/8 buggy and their 1/10 truck, since the truck's couldnt fit on the big starterboxes.

[Gokou]

Yay! I should have my videos up later tonight. Unfortunately, my MPEG codec isn't cooperating-- I hope all you guys have quicktime :rolleyes:

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Storm, on the box I found, the starter wheel can be turned both ways. Maybe I'll buy a 1/10 scale box and hook up the battery from my boat to it. How long do yall think that battery will last? I think it was around fifty, and its charger was like 200 bucks. Hopefully that will be a good setup - but a hassle to carry around. I'm not sure about what motors you should put in your box. Maybe you should try some of the 550 sized E-Maxx motors. Those should have a good bit of torque.

[RC10GTMark]

I use my car battery. Turn the car on and it is charged back up. Unfortunately I dont have a portable setup just yet, im thinking im gonna have to get a 1/8th box, they have balls. :D

[stormperson]

if you have a battery that big then you will be fine for the whole race day, and since its lead acid, just charge it up right after.

[RC10GTMark]

IM PUTTING THIS IN A GT!!!

LOL, think they make a short crank version???

http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg1320.jpg

[ 06-24-2001: Message edited by: Mark ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I wonder how much power a 12v motor and boat battery will make.

Mark, what happened to the water cooled GT? That big of an engine would go through a full tank of fuel in like a minute flat. Heh, you gonna put that thing on the front with a prop on it?

[atm92484]

lmao That engine is as big as the GT. You'd have an engine with 4 wheels and a GT body on top. Run times?? I'd give it 2 minutes - tops.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Look at all those glowplugs too! You'd need four glow starters for that thing. It's a four stroke right? It would have insane power out of the corners.

[Gokou]

Yay! Borrowed the digital camera again, so I've got some fresh pics of my GT with the piggybacks and the carbon fiber receiver guard I made.

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/new_pics/gt_rh_profile.jpg

The rest of the new pics I took are HERE (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/new_pics/) if anyone is interested.

I'm also uploading a few videos. The smaller, lower quality ones are on the site right now, and I'm in process of uploading the high quality ones right now. They're .mov's, so you'll need quicktime. Once I get my MPEG codec fixed I'll upload MPEGs instead. The videos are HERE (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_vids). There's a few mildly amusing ones. If you want to see how I break RPM body mounts, look at the wheelie/flip videos. Now picture doing that with the body off and voila, that's how I break RPM body mounts... and shocktowers. :D

[ 06-25-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[RC10GTMark]

Guoko (sorry i cant spell, to lazy to go back and look) I love your gt, that thing is sweet. That motor was just a joke of corse, it just looks really cool. Wonder how fast it would push the gt with a prop though??

Jet powered GT!!! lol.

Im still working on hydro GT. I am making my water tank now. Waiting on my head to come in from OS.

Man, I have to give Associated mad props on thier carb. I live by this carb and wouldn't trade it FOR ANYTHING. It works so **** well. Lately I have been having trouble keeping tune and getting power outta my cv-r. Put on the associated carb and bang, problem solved, power is back, tuning stayed put.

With the os carb I could not adjust the idle. If I hit the brake it stalls, that means the trim is outta wack. I put the servo dead nuts center, put the trim at 0 and reposition the horn, and redid the idle screw. It would idle but I couldn't adjust how fast it idles unless I messed with the mixture.

that AE carb puts the power down and is really easy to tune. I think vibration had to do with the death of my OS carb.

I will never run a non associated carb again.


Gouko im gonna go check out your video's now =)

[RC10GTMark]

G-o-k-o-u I can spell it now!!

Gokou you are a funny guy. You jump the **** outta your truck, you ride wheelies till you saw through your body, but on the jumping video, after you go off the jump and land, an return back for another run at the ramp, you got a little down ramp so your truck doesn't have to jump down the curb. That is funny.

lol nice video's dude.

[Gokou]

Mark, it's a bit hard to see, but there is a gap between my driveway and the grass that's about 8" long and 4" deep, and the transition to the asphalt is vertical-- it's pretty much a trench all around the grass. You can't make it over the gap going head on (the nose buries into the asphalt) and if you try to take it at an angle the truck usually ends up high-centering in the gap sideways balanced on the chassis. Hence, I have the little wood "bridge" back to the driveway so I don't have to walk over and pick up the truck and toss it over the little trench. That was I can get back to jumping without getting out of my chair :D

I wish I had my dirt track... the asphalt is hard on the truck when I crash. And when I crash it's usually bad. :D I used to have a nice track set up in the 3/4 acre lot right next to our house, but the property recently sold and the new owner asked me to level my track so he could let weeds grow. I at least kept it groomed and watered to keep the dust down. Nice guy. :mad:

Mark, about the water cooling: are you going to use a Perry Pump? To me, that seems to be the best option. You could also try making a pumpless convective flow system, but with the truck in motion (often violent motion) I don't think it would work. Also, I would consider making a little radiator. Try getting some small copper refrigeration tubing and bending it into a multiple pass u-shaped radiator, similar to an oil cooler on a real car, and maybe braze some small heatsinks on it-- it would be much simpler than trying to make fins. Sounds like a good project, but I think the performance benefits will be nullified by the weight of the system. Still, it will look impressive :)

[ 06-25-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[user_name?]

what is the best over all tuned pipe for the ftgt?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I fell in to a burning ring of fire. I went down, down, down! That flame went higher...Heh, nice little fire jumps! The Elky was in the background of one of those movies too. great job on the vids. I went to the site that you host all those movies on, it's a car selling site. Busted! Posting behind those people's backs hehe. Too bad about the lot next to your house. I had to level my track too, but my backyard is connected to a football feild so I just go over there.

Edwards, IMO, the best pipe, for most engines, is the stock pipe. Another really good one is the Picco Pro pipe.

Mark, you can't spell Gokou? Haven't you ever seen Dragon Ball or Dragon Ball Z? I used to love that show...

[RC10GTMark]

I can spell his name now mark, gokou. hehe and I didn't have to scroll up to look.

U know I never thought about making a radiator. Im definately using the perry pump. Convection never ever crossed my head, but now that I think about it, it wouldn't work. In order for convection to take place doens't the water need to be near boiling? That defeats the purpose.

I think I can make a radiator, even a small one with computer heat sinks and fans might help. The only advantage I can see is long run times on the motor. There would be extra wieght but for a basher this would not matter, he could play longer, and 2 for like endurance races it is like tires in nascar. It isn't how fast you can go but how long you can go fast.

Also, how many people can say they have a radiator on their GT??? The ditch explains the bridge, I was just curious, I saw it real fast and was like what the **** ...

You guys should try this, me and my friends built this track in a field. Under the weeds it was red clay. We waited for it to poor down rain, then we went out their with 2 4 wheelers, it leveled and ripped out the grass, and made a tilled race surface. We usually race it a while after it rains (no water out there) since it gets nice and tacky. It is a long track, lots of sweeping off camber turns and some pretty big, but not to many jumps. We got a whoop section and stuff too. We do endurance races on it. Like 100 lap races, or we time it like 2 hours. It really kicks *** and I usually change the piston and sleeve after it =) My cooling may help it.

The cost of the associated motor is great, and you get plunty of power to have fun and not worry about breaking it. I've used 3 of them in these endro races. Now I have that awesome AE carb for my cv-r and trx motor for the tmaxx, and I have every part you could imagine for the AE .15 minus the piston and sleeve. I always keep 1 running, and I remove the pull starter and put the mip buttplate on. It is my backup for my cv-r.

EDIT: Fixing typos in my book, I meant post.

[ 06-25-2001: Message edited by: Mark ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Hey Gokou, where's your receiver cover? You could at least run with a balloon or HPI cover. I have that same receiver, and I'd die if it went south because of spilled fuel.

[RC10GTMark]

Where is everyone?

[rcguy49]

hi everyone im extremely new to the sport and dont have that much cash right now so I plan to get the rtr rc10gt.I do plan to eventually get into racing and get mip cvd's,ball bearings and titanium turnbuckles.with these hop ups for the truckwill it be pretty close to the team or ft gt and will it be a good competitive truck for racing.if so how much will these hop ups cost or would it be a better idea to get the team or ft kit.
p.s. I do plan to race but I dont want to do it for compitition just for fun until I get better.if the rtr will be a good truck for me will it be able to handle big jumps (25ft tripple).
thanks
rcguy49 :)

[atm92484]

If I were you I'd just get the Team kit to begin with. Its available with a 12 CV which is better than the AE/TTR 15. Don't get me wrong the AE/TTR 15 is good but I'd take a 12 CV over it. Plus with an aftermarket head its cooling will be dramatically improved.

Now for the truck. The RTR comes with a difference chassis than the Factory Team and Team. The shape is slightly difference and the material is a lower grade. Also with the RTR the tires aren't really track ready. The Team and FT both include Proline Bowties (rear) and Edges (front) on Associated rims. The blue RTR shocks are nice but the annodizing gets worn off a little from off-roading (atleast my friend's did). The RTR's shock towers are molded plastic over the fiberglass (Team) and graphite (FT) of the better trucks.

Your best bet is to get either of these (FT or Team) and build them so you know how the truck goes together. Also the Team's steel turnbuckles are plenty strong enough. I've yet to bend one and as long as you don't do stuff like TRXboy :D they'll be good. Personally I'd go with the Team. Its a good base to begin with and you can hop it up later to Factory Team trim if you want.

If you truely don't want to build take a look at the Team Build. They are essentially Team trucks expect they don't have CVDs and they have the blue shocks. They also include a painted body and Proline Dish rims. All you have to do is install the engine and radio.

[RC10GTMark]

If your budget allows I agree completely with atm. If you cant afford to buy electronics and a motor then go with the RTR, you wont be disappointed and I dont think you will really notice the little differences, being your a beginner.

What ever fits your budget. OS motors are easy to tune, but associated is even easier. Either kit, you wont be disapointed.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Build a Team or Factory Team. They are much better than the Sport, RTR, and Team Built. The only problem with the Team is that it comes with a plastic brake hub that will melt from the heat of lots of hard braking. An aluminum re