Associated RC10GT Forum v2.0

[PnP 420 Racing]

Doug,I have blues on the front and back,and one travel limiter in each front shock. I hope that will work,i'm gonna try with one weight,cause i need that to turn. Also,waht track are we racing?

[trick061]

Hey guys, here is my GT:It has alot more mods than shown. I havent had time to update my pics. It has a Mugen .12 engine now, Progressive shock reservoirs, I would have to set down and write a book for the rest. I would also have to stop and think a minute to get all of them. But maybe later, if you guys would like to know. If not I wont. Hope you like it.
http://www.fototime.com/B72D28EDB921ED5/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/BA00CB340E19F66/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/94219072B37E12F/standard.jpg

[Turboduck01]

TRXBoy, I had the same exact thing happen to my wheels, just melts the darn thing! It sucked, you can salvage the tires though, : ) Lucky me, Good luck, it's work a try

[RC10GTMark]

Sweet truck, what kind of air filter is that?

[trick061]

That is a K&N air filter.

[RC10GTMark]

Whoa it looks cool, mark want! That would rock if they made a blue one.

[trick061]

You can have a blue one. Its a secret I know.
I could share my secret though. :D

[RC10GTMark]

Did you just die the foam element? Or is it filter oil, over applied?

[RC10GTMark]

LoL I got a blue filter now, not as red as yours but still noticibly blue. Took some filter oil from my motorcycle and used it.

[Jace2000]

I finally figured out how to use SG type crankshaft engines on the GT. I got the information from a local homepage. It's not as difficult as I first thought but you do need a Dremel.
If anyone's interested, just say so and I'll share the modification tip. What you'll need is a Mugen engine nut, two flanged bearings and two normal bearings that will fit the SG crankshaft.

My RB Turbo got totally wasted and I got my other left over JP turbo and slapped it in the GT using the above method.

[Trucks]

Crash, go back to the greens on the back, and try silvers on the front, thats what I'm running now, if that doesn't turn enough try green springs on the front.

we are running offroad on the new track again. No sence not running what everyone wants.

[Railman]

Jace, I thought that Rody said not to mix different cranks in engines! LOL
I don't know if I would ever need to use the crank mentioned but It sounds real interesting. Let me know how it goes. Joe

[trick061]

Actually Mark, it is not filter oil. It is a trick that I learned years ago to help kep my electric motors clean when I ran on the dirt oval. The filter looks like a regular filter on a big car. I put horse wrap around it to help keep it clean. It still lets it breath as normal as it would without it. Preventing the dirt from getting to filter. Horse wrap is what horses have wrapped around their ankle in different colors. Since no one else is paying any attention to me,except you, I will tell you. :)

[trick061]

BTW, the filter oil is under the wrap. Not over applied. Notice the Chrome top on the filter. I can get you one if you want. They are about $25- $30. But they will out last any other. It is probably the best filter for a Nitro right now. I have ran this one for a long time and it still looks new. :)

[Sponsored By Tyco]

This is just a test to see something.

http://Deerfield-rc-racers.freesavers.com/images/mvc-010f.jpg

if the pic doesn't work for you tell me so i can fix it.

[ 08-23-2001: Message edited by: Sponsored By Tyco ]

[Turboduck01]

didnt work :(

[Leinzey]

Hey guys. Does the Team GT come with rubber-sealed bearing like the FTGT? Thanx

[atm92484]

Yes the Team and Factory Team GTs come with sealed bearings. I just looked on AE's site and they didn't have the types listed, but I'm pretty sure they both include teflon sealed bearings.

[ 08-25-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[trick061]

I like the board so far. I will have to check out more though. Havent been on long enough to see all. :D

[ 08-23-2001: Message edited by: trick061 ]

[Big Wig]

ok trick! glad you like the forum,... there's a lot of helpful folks here :D

[ 08-24-2001: Message edited by: Big Wig ]

[Railman]

Trick, Don't feel like the Lone Ranger! It just happens that way sometimes. It's been happening to me lately also...no big deal though. My problem is I'm more apt to answer question than to ask them. If you ask specific questions usually someone will reply.
About your truck. I uasually go with yellow, red & white with some added outlining. Similar to yours, except for the green. It's obvious you spent a lot of time masking yours. I see you ran a slide carb on the posted picture, are you running a slide on your MT12? If so did you have much trouble getting a good feel for the throttle? I run an MT12 slide & like it a lot. What temp do you run yours at, what fuel, & glow plug?
Have you read much of the old GT thread? There's a fair amouint of info there if you can wade through it. Talk to you later. :cool: Joe

[Railman]

Desert Racer, I was catching up on past posts & unless I'm mistaken no one commented on the gear alignment issue. Thats actually a pet pieve of mine about the GT. The spur gear on mine did not want to locate so that it would clear the rear arm blocks. I ended up shimming the topshaft inside the tranny,(which I also did on my okd tub GT) file the slot in the slipper & brake hub deeper, & cut a little of the rear arm block away. Maybe the slipper pad is too thick, the brake pin hole is off, or slipper hub is too wide? At any rate once I got the spur to clear the rear block & I had to get the clutch to align with the spur. I had to add washers behind the collet/corn to get it to match, but now everything is a perfect match.
Did you get yours figured out? Joe

[trick061]

Gentlemen, I m ok. I am not mad. I just figured out on some boards with alot of people that works real to get some ones attention. Most people get some replys of hello when they post pics.

Big Wig: I do not expect people to drop what they are doing.
Im not angry. Just wanted to see if anyone was looking for new posts with problems.

Railman: Everyone told me I would not like the slide, but I do. It is more responsive than the rotary. I havent got to run the mugen yet. I just got it last night, and decided to race my OS this weekend then put the Mugen in next week. Mine runs around 200 deg. idling, I run Dynamite 20% fuel with a McCoy MC-59 glow plug with the Odonnel head.
There are no hard feelings. I am not angry in any way. I like the board so far. I will check out the older info though. Thanks :D

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I just wanted to drop in and say hey to everyone. I won't be visiting the BB for a while, because of school and the theater club. I'll still post every now and then, but I won't have much of a chance. You won't miss me too much, since Joe is back from the grave, and writing replies like a mad man (thumbs up, Joe). So I'll talk to you all later.

Mark O.

[TRXboy]

Ok mystery break of the day....


http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=TRXboy&album_id=29534&image_id=32&param=46830

and just to show that yeah my truck is used...


http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=TRXboy&album_id=29534&image_id=31&param=68911

[gtwolfpack]

[ 08-24-2001: Message edited by: gtwolfpack ]

[gtwolfpack]

Hello, guys...it's been a long time since I logged in here, actually, I forgot my login name after I registered :D. I run a small 2wd-dedicated homepage and just want to say hello to every fellow GT racer here. BTW, I wonder if any of you have tried this, but, if you suffer constantly from small debris stuck in between spur gear and clutchbell, try the trick in the following pictures. Since I did the mod to my GT, stripeed spur gear became the thing of the past.... :D

<img src=http://rcracingtruck.com.ne.kr/pictures/spurgearhole.jpg>
<img src=http://rcracingtruck.com.ne.kr/pictures/spurgearhole2.jpg>

[RC10GTMark]

Hehe that is a good idea wolfpack. I think im gonna try that.

[gtwolfpack]

Thanks, mark. Actually, I was somewhat worried if the hole was too small. But, I found out that since the spur gear rotates clockwise, the size and location of the hole in the pic would be the best compromise between maintaing the chassis rigid around the hole and keeping the debris fall through the hole. What I did was make a big hole first with my drill and expand it lengthwise with a grinder bit. But..you will realize how rigid the GT chassis is..which is good of course.. :D

[Railman]

TRXboy, Yeh, that looks used! How did you loose the sintered filter though?
Wolfpack, I can't see the spur gear, but I assume that your refering to the stainless phillips head screws on the motor mount screws? I started to do that once, & actually have the stainless screws for it. The only drawback is that they stick below the chassis a little bit, but it's no biggie if it helps hold it together. Joe

[gtwolfpack]

Railman, the mod that I referred to was the small hole on the chassis right below the spur gear..Oh yea, I used stainless steel philips screw cause the orignial hex bolts were stripped..

[Railman]

Now I see the hole! :rolleyes: :o

[williamsedw]

Would like increase performance on a rc10gt rtr with .15 engine. Is the pipe that comes stock on the truck the best pipe for it, which brands do you guys use, will need a good header to go with it. What kind of performance would I be looking at.

[Railman]

Wiliam, If I were you I would just match up the header to the exhaust port rectangle. It make a huge differance in performance. The way they are stock they act like a restrictor. Just use a dremmel, or better yet, what I use is a $15 cheapie 1/4" die grinder with a carbide bur. The dremmel will work fine though. Just be patient & take your time. I never run the gasket either. Just use a little RTV instead. The trick is to have a flat surface on the header flange. If you take a flat file across it in firm... slow... strokes, it will do a nice job. Just to be clear, DO NOT mess with grinding the engine block port. The stock pipe is a very good pipe that has won a tremendous number of national meets. Save your money for servos or somthing else. Just my $.02 Joe

[williamsedw]

will try it, thanks for the advice

[Leinzey]

Another question. Are there swaybars for the RC10GT? My friend made his Rustler into an on-roader, so I thought it would be awesome if there are swaybars for the GT to make it kill my friend's Rustler, as if the GT couldn't kill it anyways. Thanks

[FTGT Racer]

there arnt any kits but I made some from a long piece of steel and a few odds and ends, If your interested in instructions e mail me

FTGT

[atm92484]

Hey guys I just got back from my LHS. While I was there I picked up this Traxxas radio box for the T-Maxx. I'm heading into the garage in a few minutes to try to mount in on the GT. I'll let you guys know how it goes and hopefully I'll get pics if it works.

[atm92484]

It worked! Ok I know I'm not the first to do this but this box looks awesome. Especially since it is blank and there are no logos on it: perfect for me to decorate. :D BTW its part number 4924.

I'll try to post pics and instructions on what I did within the next few day. Its pretty simple and all it involves is cutting the antenna mount of the stock radio plate, bolting the new box onto the plate so it fits, then just putting everything back onto the car.

[ 08-24-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[DarkWraith]

OK... I am sure this has been asked/answered before, but I just gotta know.

:confused:

On my friends RC10GT, the main spur gear is so close to the rear arm that he actually had to remove some material from the arm such that there was no interference. Is this normal for everyone else?

You think that after ten or so revisions someone at Associated would have used Modelcheck with all that ProE data and said...

"Wow. That's pretty darn close. We should do something about that."

Just wundrin... THANKS!

[atm92484]

Dark, tell your friend to take the spur gear and all the slipper pieces off, including the inner disc. Do you see a pin going through the top shaft going into the tranny? Make sure the slotted side of that pin is facing the tranny. If it already is and there is rubbing then he probably did the right thing by removing some material, however just make sure he doesn't remove too much. However if the slot is any other way, rotate it so it is facing the tranny.

In the future a good investment would probably be a Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gear. Thats all I run and they are great.

[Railman]

Darkwraith, I just posted on the previous page that same problem. The funny thing is my sons FTGT lined up perfect without any problems & mine missed by a mile. Has to be a tolerance problem on a batch of parts. Anyway my solution is on previous page addressed to "Desert Racer" about 9:15 PM? or so. I do know that it's a common problem, it's just that it don't happen to all of them. Joe

[DesertRacer]

Railman - I never did get the spur gear alignment correct. It's off ever so little. Great ideas...

I also have a small amount of play (left to right) in the spur gear because of the way the pinion gear is shimmed in the transmission? Did you shim this out as well? Thanks...

-DR

[Railman]

Desert Racer, I did shim the topshaft a few thousanths, just enough to drift the topshaft away from the input side. I can't remember what shims I used right now though. It doesn't take as much as it feels like...don't overshim. Joe

[gtwolfpack]

A question was raised yesterday to my homepage why FT RC10GT uses carbon graphite shock towers while other gas trucks such as Ultima ST-R or XXX-NT uses molded shocktowers...Is there any difference in terms of performance ro is it just cost-saving? I think molded towers must cost far less than carbon graphite ones... ;)

[atm92484]

Personally I'd take the graphite shock towers AE use over the molded ones any day of the week. IMO the ones that are cut from either sheets of fiberglass or graphite are much more rigid, not to mention stronger. Yes, I know the design matters, but I've had much better luck with these so called "cookie cutter" shock towers over molded ones.

I'd also have to say it is cheaper to mold towers and stuff like that, but from what I've seen from AE they aren't worried about cost as much as performance. It seems like they'd rather go a step farther and make a better piece.

JMO

[ 08-25-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[Railman]

Well guys it happened! The old GT thread is gone! :eek: :( :confused:

[KC10Chief]

Hey guys. I'm having a problem with one of my CVD's. The little pin that goes through the dogbone and axle keeps coming out. I've used locktite on the screw, and put heat shrink wrap around the thing and the pin still comes out even through the heat shrink. Tonight I was racing and was in first place by several laps and with a minute to go, the pin came out. I still got first. I put a new one in with a new screw, locktite, and more heat shrink wrapping and it happened again with about two minutes to go and I got second place. It pokes right out through the shrink wrap and I never see it again. After that, a big bolt of lightning hit a tree a few hundred feet away and I high tailed it outta there. Anyways, does anybody have any ideas on why this thing keeps on coming out despite the screw and heat shrink tubing holding it in? Thanks for any advice! Matt

[FTGT Racer]

first GET SOME EXTRAS YOU'LL NEED EM. secondput one pin in a vise TIGHT. third takes a dremal with a grinding bit and grind one side flat (this is hard ive done it) now fourth put it back in and line the flat spot up with the set screw and tighten it like your life depended on it. This has always worked for me and i do it evertime i get new CVD's. If this doesnt work I've got another way but it isnt very much recomended

FTGT

[Jace2000]

Yep...
Seems like the old GT thread is gone. All that info is gone. It's too bad cause we've all shared some good tips and information in that last thread.

Railman..
I haven't had time to visit this thread.
I'll share the SG crankshaft tip with everyone as soon as I get some pics ready. It's rather difficult to explain it without them.

[ScMc]

hey guys, im new to the board. im going to get a truck for bashing, jumping, and play racing. How does the team gt do with the os .12 cv-x? is the cv-x good with the ae pipe? im looking for mostly accelaration and reasonable top-end.thanks

[Big Wig]

Railman,

In a post above, you mentioned sealing the header to the engine with RTV instead of using a gasket. What is RTV? Is it like Blue Permatex? I need to pick some up to seal my header and my carb.

To everyone:

I've been having a problem with my .12SPD. It was running great until yesterday. It has good compression and it starts fairly easily and stays running. I had no low end power all day and my top end wasn't the greatest. I spent the day tuning and I couldn't get it any better. I'd start at factory settings and it would run rich but not like it normaly would. Let me explain: I knew it was rich because when I was wide open down the straights, the RPMs were very low and as I leaned out the high speed mixture 1 hour at a time it would get better and better BUT when it was running rich it wouldn't be all "blubbery" like it used to,... it would sound very clean (almost like it was lean). I'd get the high end set for max RPM (which wasn't as good as usual) and try to tune the low end for throttle response and nothing I did would make it run good. It would take off slow and then start to make power,... just not too much. It was horrible coming out of corners and trying to clear jumps,.. unless I could carry serious speed through the corner, I could never clear the jump. My engine just has no "bark"!

I decided I will tear the engine down and have a look at the internals, then I'll seal the header with RTV (once I find out what it is :D ) then do the same with the carb. I plan to change my fuel line and pressure tubing as well.

What else should I do? I don't think my engine is smoked,... I've been there once already and it wouldn't stay running when it got warm - it stays running fine now.

Until now I've been very happy with the dependability of the Dynamite mill, it's fast enough for my track and it was easy to tune ;) Am I on the right track?

Oh yeah, the low end needle and O-ring is brand new (I turned it in too tight and smushed it,... oops). Also, at it's best state of tune it was running at 258 degrees.

thanks in advance
Jay

[ 08-26-2001: Message edited by: Big Wig ]

[Jace2000]

ScMc..
Welcome aboard...
The FTGT with an OS is a solid choice. The OS engine will me more than enough for the truck. Tons of folks are running their truck with that engine and they all seem pleased.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Big wig: i had that same problem with my SPD.i took mine all apart and cleaned it inside and out.put it back together and sealed the header,carb and backplate with silicone.it ran fine but still no serious power like it had before.i changed the glow plug from an MC9 to an mc59 and it is perfect again.at the last race my plug died and all i had was an mc9.i put it in and no power again.i got another mc59 and it runs perfect again.so maybe you want to change your glow plug

[Big Wig]

ritchies rc10gt,

Thank you for the advice. I am running an MC59 plug now. I have tried MC9's in the past and they ran terrible in my engine as well. For the heck of it, I should probably try an MC9 again though.

Any other advice?

thanks
Jay

[ 08-26-2001: Message edited by: Big Wig ]

[Railman]

Guys, First of all I think I jumped the gun, but maybe not, about the old GT thread. When I went to it this morning it was there! If I remember right, I think I may have looked for a 2nd page instead of lookung for the days past option. Now I don't know if I was just to tired, or going scenile? Anyway it's there now! Just need to go back 20 days or so. Funny thing is when I went there today it automatically went to 20 days back, even though I didn't set it to that option. It only went 20 days on that page. Somebody trying to tell me something?

Big Whig, Have you cut out your body enough to get good air? If you don't cut the windshield, side window, grill, & engine access to the max legal amount, it won't cool well enough to run lean for power. You might also want to make sure that the low end throttle gap is in the right ballpark. If it's too far off it won't tune right. I would also stay with the MC59, but maybe just try a fresh one. It sounds like you've sealed it well. The guy's that I knew that ran the Dynamites ran theirs around 250' or so, with good power & durability . That should be ok for them since they don't have a huge heat sink on them. Anyway, the chrome bore should take that temp with no problem. Have you tried leaning the top a little while fattening the bott? The low end is what keeps the temp in check the most. What are you using to take the temp? Good luck. Joe
Big Whig, One other thing; how long is your tank to carb fuel line?

[ 08-26-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Let's see if I can get the pics of my ride to work...
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Rc1oGtMaN&album_id=34968&image_id=0&courtesy=1
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Rc1oGtMaN&album_id=34968&image_id=1&courtesy=1
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Rc1oGtMaN&album_id=34968&image_id=2&courtesy=1
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Rc1oGtMaN&album_id=34968&image_id=3&courtesy=1
The rollcage is a work in progress, but here it is anyway:
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Rc1oGtMaN&album_id=34968&image_id=4&courtesy=1
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Rc1oGtMaN&album_id=34968&image_id=5&courtesy=1

Hope these work. This is my first time using PrintRoom.

Mark O.

[ 08-26-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[atm92484]

Sweet truck GTman. What did you use to strip the chassis?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Thanks ATM.

I used some EZ Off oven cleaner to strip the chassis and manifold. There are several kinds of EZ Off, and you'll want to buy the stuff in the yellow can. The top is still bare, but I brushed the bottom with a wire detailing brush to make it shine. The bottom looks really cool, but it doesn't hide scrapes or fingerprints very well anymore. One day I'll brush the top of the chassis. I think that I'm also going to strip the nose brace tubes, pipe, and the blue screw kit. Too bad I can't get the ano off the turnbuckles with EZ Off though. '

Oh yeah, you're going to want to strip the ano outside because the cleaners knocked out my neighbor when I was cleaning my countertops with the oven cleaner. He came to in a few seconds, but I was scared. Let the EZ Off sit for about 5 minutes and then just wipe down the chassis with a rag. After that, go the sink and was the part off. It will be a dull grey, but that's nothing a buffer or detailing brush can't fix. If there's still some ano left over, just spray it agin.

Mark O.

[gtwolfpack]

Has anyone used a bladder from other kits in GT gray shocks? If so, how did you feel? Was there any difference for the better in terms of shock-bleeding convenience or performance gains? BTW I am about to experiment a way to keep dirt from getting into the shock body past the O-rings in the bottom. I am thinking about putting the dust cover to the bottom of the shock body on the outside using a ultra strong double-sided tape dot (you can use a punch to make some..). I hope this will work.... :)

[Big Wig]

Railman,

Thanks for the reply!
I am measuring the temp with a Raytek Mini Temp gun and my tank to carb fuel line is about 2" long. I have the body of the truck cut more than would be allowed for racing - the whole front windshield is cut out, the side window is cut out completely and then some (so I can pullstart with the body on) and the back window is cut out. I've driven the truck like this ever since I've had it and it's been running great. Should I do any more cutting?

Oh yeah, when I was having these problems the other day, I had the body off most of the time and it still ran crummy.

I don't have everything sealed up yet,.. I need to get some RTV. I'll also change my fuel line. I did pop in a fresh MC59 part way through the day and that didn't help either.

SPD owners, I have a Q for you:

Do you start with the factory recommended setting of 7 turns out on the low speed needle?

When My engine was brand new I read the book and was suprised to see this! I checked my new engine and the high speed needle was right on (2.5 turns out) but the low speed was only 2.5 turns out (a long way from 7!). The directions said that the needles were set from the factory and you don't need to touch them so I didn't. The thing started easy and break in went well. After break in, the thing flat ripped! It ran absolutely flawlessly for 1 gallon of fuel. I had 2 bad runaways and the piston and sleeve were smoked. I rebuilt it but I used the factory setting this time and the engine has not run right since,... This past Saturday was worse than usual though.

Just thought I'd share the history of this engine in case anyone has some thoughts.

Thanks
Jay

[ 08-27-2001: Message edited by: Big Wig ]

[Railman]

Bigh Whig, The old dynamite carbs used to use a fine thread on the main, & if I remember right we used to run somewhere around 3 to 4 turns with them. I don't know if the newer ones are the same or not. The RTV silicone we use is a Permatex product. Just be shure that it's sensor safe, the color is just personal preferance. You might also want to go th a 4" to 5" fuel line. That will make tuning a little easier. It knocks off a little of the initial fuel surge when the throttle opens, which can sometimes snuff a glow plug. I used to run the shortest line I could, but I like it better with the longer line. Good luck. Joe

[Jwelch]

I hope you don't move to Medfield, Mark, you'll embarass me, lol.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Don't worry, I won't embarass you, John. My truck is down so much that guys who only have their cars running make me blush. :rolleyes: Do you live in or close to Medfield? My parents are going to check it out again in about a week. It looks like the chance of me moving is rising, because my dad's job is being threatened. You see, he is one of the owners of one of the big clinics here in town, and the clinic is merging with the hospital, thus putting my dad in jeopardy of being fired, since he won't own the place. He and the cheif of staff (let's call him Pat) don't get along at all because Pat wants someone he can control, and my dad won't be controlled by the man. So, with the merger, my dad will either get fired or his pay will drop dramatically (by about 150,000 dollars). Now, my family has two kids in college and two kids in private schools. College is about 20,000 a year (total), and the private schools are about 10,000 a year (total). We also have to pay for the house, three cars, four people need to be insured, etc. etc. etc.

Joe, how did you set up your intake line so it would be that long without getting in the way of things? I'd like to try this.

Nick, thanks for the compliment. My bet is that the guys at the track are changing the oil every other race day or something like that. Maybe you should just rebuild the shocks and try filling them up as soon as the oil turns grey.

Mark O.

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Well my gt is up and running now but i have no time to run it since i just started school :(...

[atm92484]

TRX, depending on how bad they are that may effect it. First though try getting the same springs these people with the soft suspension are running (but I'm pretty sure you've already done this). Next make sure you don't have a ton of preload spacers on the shocks. Too many could cause the spring's tension to increase, thus making the shock harder. Also check and make sure nothing is binding in the suspension. Finally if none of this works I guess try new bodies but I'd only do that as a last resort since they are expensive.

[Jwelch]

Mark, I'm in Medfield.

[wojo65]

i had a os.12 cvx, i didnt like it. I mean it taught me how to tune an engine and all that good stuff. but it had NO POWER. So i went out and bought a picco.12 slide carb rear exhaust! :eek: wowza is that power. I also changed the gearing, the spur is 65 the clutchbell is 20 hehe. MAD POWER. I cant stop driving it i drive it everyother day just aslong as i have time!! I LOVE MY FTGT :D

[Railman]

GtMan, I just turned the carb fuel nipple so that the fuel line runs around the rear of the engine, & then either over or under the header pipe...seen it both ways.

[Turboduck01]

Thats a whole mess of moneh :eek: i wish my parents made half the that much

[TRXboy]

GTman, that hot, nice truck dude.

Ok if you shocks are worn out does that effect the way they handel bumpy terain, my gray shock arent as smoth as say....new ones..and they guys at the track's shocks are absorbing every little thing(I swear they look like a T-maxx suspenhion) im running blue springs in frotn and green in the back with 30 wt oil...i gatta solve this prob.

[gtwolfpack]

I think I picked up the idea here some time ago. I am installing a 125CC fuel tank from Duratrax for its 1/8 gas buggy. The fule tank is a perfect fit to my FT GT. All you have to do is just to drill two holes in the chassis to install the tank. I expect the run time to be extended up to, say, 12 minutes from around 8 miniutes on the stock GT tank..Someone in my local track driving Kyosho Ultima ST-R has already installed MP 7.5 fule tank to his truck...We will do some endurance race this week...

[slow one]

I just put a Mugen mt12 in my gt, broke it in and boy is it fast. I'm running around 230-240. Does anyone else run on fo these power houses, what temp are you running.

[Jwelch]

Ahhh, finally, my digicam works...

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Arnivax&album_id=35111&image_id=0&courtesy=1

[ilovemygt]

there are good days and bad days.....
today was a bad day, i went to my local track for some practice everything was good until i broke a roll pin in my cvd. every thing went downhill after that after i put a new one in my gt didnt seem to be handling right so i pulled it off the track to see what was wrong i broke a aliumium screw in my supension on the left front a arm. i couldnt get it out so i moved it over to the next hole i couldnt even keep it on the track! our track is pretty tight so you have to have you car setup prefect. after a while of some slow driving around the track i noticed that my engine wasnt running right i found out that i was missing a screw for the header! the track was really dusty so there is probably dirt all inside my new engine :mad:. finally i decided that before i got really p*ssed i should go home looks like ill be spending another long night in the garage ;)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Nice looking truck, Todd.

I know how those days go, IlovemyGT.

Man I'm not feeling good today for some reason. Stomach hurts bad...real bad. I had a dry heave about an hour ago, so that can't be good. I'm trying to drink lot's of OJ and water, but I'm not hungry, so it's getting tough to force down. Hope all of you are feeling well.

Mark O.

[ilovemygt]

well after a couple of hours of working on my gt. it is up and running again :D but i still need to get a new bumper does RPM make one?

[TRXboy]

Love- Yeah RPM makes one, its similar to the newer style bumper but stock out more and cover the entire front kick up area, really durable and flexs much more.

[Jace2000]

Here's a good tip for anyone trying to fit a SG type crankshaft engine on their GT.

You'll need a dremel, two flanged 5x8mm bearings, two regular 5x8x2mm bearings, and a Mugen engine nut.
Serpent flanged 5x8 bearings are part# 1312 and the regular 5x8x2mm bearings are part#1311. The Mugen engine nut can be found at Towers for $6.69 and the part# is C0704 or H0704. You can use either.

First, get the clutch bell and widen the front and rear holes where the original flange bearings get placed. You'll have to widen it by something like 0.3mm. This is because the outer diameter of the millimeter flange bearing is slightly larger than the stock inch ones. You can do this sandpapering the holes of the clutchbell with some coarse sandpaper. It'll take some time but it can be done. After that, make sure that the mm bearings fits snuggly both in the front and the rear hole of the clutchbell.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=jace2000&album_id=31166&image_id=12&courtesy=1
After the clutchbell job, you'll have to shave off about three thread lines from the crankshaft using a dremel with a proper tool tip. After that's done, place the clutch on the crankshaft as you would normally do and slide in the clutchbell, with the flange bearings in place, and see how far it goes into the shaft. If properly done, the cluthbell should be aprox. 0.7~1mm apart from the flywheel. If they're apart by more than that, you'll have to shave the crankshaft a little more. A thing to be careful about here is that the flywheel should be place as far as back into the crankshaft as possible.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=jace2000&album_id=31166&image_id=13&courtesy=1
Next shave off the hex part of the Mugen engine nut so that it will fit without interference within the inner hole of the clutch. You'll also have to cut the front part of the engine nut. Cut it far enough so that it won't change the flywheel-to-clutchbell measurement made in the earlier step.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=jace2000&album_id=31166&image_id=10&courtesy=1
It should look like the above pic with the clutch, engine nut, and inner flange bearing in place.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=jace2000&album_id=31166&image_id=9&courtesy=1
Make sure that the hex part of the engine nut is shaved off enough so that it won't interfere with the clutch. I've used the MIP 4-in-1 clutch in the pic.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=jace2000&album_id=31166&image_id=11&courtesy=1
The finished modification should like this. The two bearings are 5x8x2mm bearings and the white bushing in the middle is made of teflon. You can use several regular washers instead of the teflon bushing.

I've gone through several hours of running time with this setup and I've had no problem so far. It's a worthwhile mod if you wanna run a more top of the line .12 engine but can't seem to find a regular crankshaft version of it. Plus, you can still use it for touring nitros. The shaved off three thread lines really doesn't matter.

Finally, I wanna thank GTWolfpack's friend for some important tips. I think he and I was along the same line but he gave me some decisive tips.

WHEW~ That was the longest post that I've made. :D

[ 08-28-2001: Message edited by: Jace2000 ]

[Railman]

I have an MT12, & I tend to run mine (which isn't much lately) at around 250->260. I think that if you break it in cool it will break in faster due to more friction in tight pist/sleeve fit, but won't last as long. I only have about a gallon through mine, but it's not lost any compression, & still don't think it's broken in all the way yet. The 1st sign of loosing any compression & I will cool mine down a bit to tighten the fit a bit. Until then, I'm running on the high side of the temp range. The temp range your at sounds good though & if it's running well I'd stay with it. Once an engine gets used to a temp it kinda establishes a tolerance to the pist/sleeve. Maybe you might want to drop to 220 when it starts to loosen up more though. Just my $.02 Joe

[TRXboy]

Jace- Props...

*Edit*-Def-Extreamly high amount of credit givin to a person when it is desrved. :)

[ 08-29-2001: Message edited by: TRXboy ]

[Jace2000]

TRX..
I'm acting dumb here...
What do you mean? Props? :confused:

[RC10GTMark]

He means he respects you for what you did, posting that post. When you give someone props you are showing respect or graditude.

[Jace2000]

Duh~ :(
I knew that~ jk
Thanks for the explanation guys... :D

[Railman]

Outstanding Jace! :) I've heard of some people having trouble with crankshaft runout, & your setup would definately eliminate that issue. Do you know about how many thousnths inch (or hundreds of a mm) you had to enlarge the clutch bell? Does it now take 4 bearings , 2 flange on outside & 2 std on inside? Again, great work, thanks for sharing! :cool: Joe

[ 08-29-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

:eek: :eek: :eek: Wow! That is awesome, Jace. Where did you find out how to do that? You're my idol now... :D

Mark O.

[atm92484]

Thats cool Jace. Nice work.

BTW nice Japanese (or whatever it is) on the desk. :)

[ 08-29-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[nolanr0413]

Hey everyone, cool work on the crank. I have a problem and i hope someone can solve it. I got a RC10T electric to gas conversion kit and i need the engine mount and battery brace and a gas tank.I have had no luck trying to find these. If someone has one i am willing to buy it. I would like to get this old gas truck going, it would be a piece of moving history. :confused:

[Portlander]

sorry, I can't help, all I can say is go to your LHS.
and I have one question, what is a battery brace? do you mean the rear bumper?

[Eric Gharakhanian]

Hi i'm new to nitro I got a team built gt a month ago I have an os cv rx I was wondering what pipe other poeple are using with this engine. :D

[slow one]

[ 08-29-2001: Message edited by: slow one ]

[atm92484]

I noticed we have some new people here.....welcome everyone.

Hit, I have a 12 CV-R in my GT (same as 12 CV-RX except no recoil starter) and I am still using the stock Associated pipe. Honesly this is one of the best pipes available right now, especially for O.S. engines. Another good pipe includes the Picco Pro pipe. RCCA used this pipe when they did their Nitro Race Truck shootout and they said it did well with the 12 CV-Rs they were using.

[Jace2000]

Thanks for the compliment guys. You guys make it a blast for sharing tips here. I just thought that someone out there will need this tip because I needed so badly.

Railman, the clutchbell was rounded by something like 0.3mm or less. I just sandpapered it and tried to fit the flange bearings. If it didn't fit, I just did it again until it would fit. There's an easier way to do this. I got some sanpaper and wrapped it around a dremel tool tip firmly and just shoved it into the clutchbell hole and WAAAAH~. It just create a more even diameter than just doing it manually.
The two flange bearings go into the clutchbell and the two regular ones go on the crankshaft outside of the the clutchbell. The two regular bearings are there just to keep the spacing. I would suspect that any regular spacers or equivalent lenght pipe would do the job.

Rc10GtMaN, I was trying to figure this out for quite a while (cause my IQ is not the highest :D). The other things were not that difficult to figure out but the core of the puzzle lay in the engine nut. I heard from GTWolfpack's (member of this forum) friend that he did his mod using a Serpent single speed engine nut. I had that nut but it was too tough of a metal and required more job due to it's size. I figured that the Mugen nut was better because it was cheaper and widely available.

hitstuff, welcome aboard.
I think most people are using the Associated pipe that came with their kit. Some use the Paris pipe and I've seen some using the Cvec. I'm personally using a Novarossi pipe.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Jace you need to send that whole setup in to RCCA's Pit Tips. If it's chosen as a Top Tip, you'll get an OFNA Rally car (and you know that a tip that cool has to make the Top Tip list).

Hey new guys.


Mark O.

[Jace2000]

rc10gtman, thanks for the suggestion. I think I just might try it. Didn't know they gave away prizes for that. Thanks :)

[Railman]

Ask Gubbs about that one. He knows all about it! I sent one to Bob & I thought it was a good one, one that I had been doing for years with excellent results... & nothing!
It's been about 4 months' too. :confused: I don't think they're big on technical things, cause the majority of the readers wouldn't get it. They just go for everyday things that just help out a little.

[Eric Gharakhanian]

I like the cv r with the stock pipe but I was just curiose to see if anyone had great results with other pipes.

[Eric Gharakhanian]

wow what did you use for a jump. once I did a jump like that with my rustler I broke an a arm and bent all sorts of stuff. :D

[atm92484]

Well guys its a sad, sad day. My Nitro DS has been handling like poo ever since I did a chassis swap with any old NDS my friend had. Today I took my NDS apart and I noticed this chassis is tweaked. I guess I found the source of the bad handling. :(

Anyways I need your opinions: should I just forget about the Nitro DS and wait on a Nitro TC3 to replace it or should I go and buy that $100 NDS from Tower and just transfer my bearings, aluminium shock bodies (but rebuild them using the new parts), pipe/manifold, radio, and engine over to the new chassis. Plus for the $100 I'd get a totally new car along with another set of tires and a body. Not too bad considering a chassis is about $30, body is $20, tires are $40, and a new tranny would cost atleast $75.

[TRXboy]

ATM- i say buy the NDS, keepbuild it, keep it real nice, and dont beat the crap outta it, then buy the TC3 and use that, the NDS should be a colectors item soon..

[Sponsored By Tyco]

great job on finding that out for us Jace but, couldn't you just cut the crank of at where the threads start and just use a stock gt clutch nut :confused:???? or is the wrong threading..?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Joe, what were the tips you and gubbs sent in?

Mark O.

[Jace2000]

Tyco, you're assumption was correct. The threading on a SG type shaft is larger in diameter than a normal shaft threading and the GT clutch nut wouldn't fit.
I actually wrote to Associated asking for their advice on this issue and they came back with a relatively simple answer, that it couldn't be done. Maybe I should send this mod tip over to them. :D

ilovemygt, nice jump!

[ 08-30-2001: Message edited by: Jace2000 ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

ARGH! Just got back from the Ophthimologist because my vision is starting to go. Those drop they put in your eyes to dialate your pupils don't wear off for like 4 hours! Well I came home and went into my room to call my friend...I turned on the light and just about dyed. Since my eyes didn't adjust to the light, I was blinded. :eek: So, I stumbled out of my room and have been wearing sunglasses ever since. :cool: Good part of the story: I get some RX Oakley glasses now. :cool: :D I'm even wearing my sunglasses right now...

Sorry, I just had to jump off topic for a second.

Mark O.

[Railman]

GTMan, Gubbs sent in the idea to use after runn oil in the glow lpug hole to hold the crank. You know, for those stubborn clutch nut removals. If they had posted it on a different month he probably would have won. As a matter of fact the next month they gave it to a guy that stuck a ROPE/string in the glow plug hole to lock the crank. Not a good idea in my mind because it's not an even resistance like Gubbs idea. Gubbs was not happy!

Mine was a tip to put a small amount of RTV at the collet/center bearing race/washer. It only takes a 1/32" bead or so. It helps stop a potential air leak at the crankshaft to bearing bore. There's nothing to stop the air fron pulling past the bearing/shaft...it's just a loose fit. Shure seemed to help ours. Guess they thought otherwise?? :confused:

[Railman]

Slow One, Whats on your mind dude? Two edited posts for somthin. Hows that MT12 runnin. What pipe are you running. Which carb? Joe

[ilovemygt]

weeeeee didnt break a thing :D
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=rc10racer&album_id=33001&image_id=6&courtesy=1

[slow one]

[ 08-30-2001: Message edited by: slow one ]

[TEAMTED]

Hey guys. I am currently running an OS .12 CV-X in my FTGT. I am ready to get a faster engine. I was looking at the PICCO/TRINITY .12 and the .12 CV-R What do you guys think, are these engines good. What engines would you suggest. Also, would i have to do anything to my car to get a NON pull start engine. I bought the kit that is FOR pull start. THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH!!!
Teddy ;)

[KC10Chief]

Ooooh. CV-R. I may buy one tonight when I go race. Anyways, I have the FTGT as well, but for the non pull start motor. I know that the CV-R will just drop right in. I'd imagine that if you wanted to make it non pull start, you'd have to get a new motor mount and a new exhaust header. I know in the pull start truck the motor sits up a little higher. However, I have seen a few guys at the track with pull start trucks using starter boxes. I'm not sure if they cut the holes for the flywheel or not. I'm pretty sure that the pull start truck has a hole in the chassis for the flywheel. You could probably bolt it right in, but if not, all I think you would have to get is a new motor mount and exhaust header. I can't see that costing more than 20 bucks. I could be wrong though. Be sure to adjust all of your linkages if you do that too! Good luck! Matt

[atm92484]

Get a 12 CV-R and a starter box and you'll be ready to race. With Associated cars, their pullstart and non-pullstart engines use a different flywheel, engine mount, and manifold. Other than these things, the rest of the trucks are identical.

Pullstart engines have to sit higher so the recoil unit clears the chassis. However since there is no recoil until on non-pullstart engines, they can sit lower. If you do get a CV-R (or any other non-pullstart engine for that matter), you can just use the mount, flywheel, and manifold from the pullstart engine. The only difference is everything will sit up higher. However if you get a nps flywheel then you must get nps engine mounts since they directly effect eachother. However you can still use a ps manifold with a nps engine.

[TEAMTED]

thanks guys, but do any of you think that the TRINITY/PICCO .12 engines are good. That is what all of the best drivers seem to use. THANKS

[RC10GTMark]

I dunno about trinity/picco. I dont use them but I see lots of questions about them. I have a CV-R, setup for non pull start and it rips, fastest motor ive used. Parts are easily avialable and help for it is easily available.

[Jace2000]

The CV-R is a solid choice. Good performance and easy to work with.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

The picco is awesome. You'll need to buy a Picco Pro pipe for it because the stock pipe hinders performance. Nick/TRXBoy had one longer than I did, but when I had it, it was a screamer. It's not a good choice on a tight track, but on a long track with big straights, you'll whoop up on everyone. The OS CV or CV-R would be great for a tight track.

Mark O.

[KC10Chief]

I went out to the races tonight and met a guy who must be one hardcore GT racer. He had a GT tattooed on his arm! Pretty good size too. Maybe two inches tall and four inches long. He said he was drunk and bored on a rainy Saturday night when he would have normally been racing. Ha! I love my GT, but I don't know if I would get it tattooed on my arm. I guess that's better than the guy I saw at the beach in Jersey with a two foot tall tobasco sauce bottle tattooed on his back. Matt

[DesertRacer]

I have an OS CV-R. It's a strong motor. Runs well all the time - it's easy to tune. It has a broad, linear power band which helps to control the power.

Sweet motor!

[TEAMTED]

how many tanks did it take to break in your CV-R's??? Why dont the pro drivers, such as Brian Kinwald, Matt Francis, or Mark Pavidis use the CV-R. It says that they are using PICCO engines. Are they reffering to the P12, or a different engine??? THANKS

[KC10Chief]

I was out racing last night and was noticing that my FTGT rocked a bit on the starter box. When I took a closer look, I noticed that the chassis has a slight bow to it. IT still handles great and I got first place in the A main last night! Anyways, is this slight bow normal, or should I replace my chassis? Thanks for any info! Matt

[Portlander]

just be sure that this bow doesn't turn into something bigger. Also, make sure your gear mesh or anything else wasn't effected by this bend.

[atm92484]

Wheres this "bow" at? If its infront of the fuel tank then worry about it later, once it gets worse. When you do replace it I'd say just buy a conversion kit. Its like $10 more than a new chassis but you'd get new engine mounts, some screws, the mounts for the nose brace tubes, the rear suspension mounts, rear hub carriers, not to mention the new chassis.

[Spinner]

Teamted: El Kinwaldo is sposored by TTP (Trinity/Team Picco) The engines that he gets are HAND BUILT by Mr. Picco himself, they are MUCH better than any engine you can go out and buy, and also have special carbs...

[atm92484]

Well guys I got some good news. I spend all afternoon and evening yesterday tearing down the NDS and cleaning it, then rebuilding a few things like the shocks and changed the suspension settings a little bit. I also did some hammering on the chassis. Needless to say this car handles better now than the day I got it. Ahhhh the memories....

[Trucks]

Got my mt12 yesterday, got a new piston and slevee coming in for the spd 12 next week so I'll have a back up for the rest of the season. :)

[RC10GTMark]

Ask the pro drivers why they dont use CV-R's. All the local offroaders here us CV-R's, that was convincing enough for me.

As for break in, I ran about 4 tanks idle, 3 half throttle max, bleeping, and 2 more tanks no more than 3/4 throttle. Cooling inbetween refills, than went out and ripped up my front lawn.

[slow one]

Finally got this to post

Mugen MT12

MIP; Light Flywheel

GPM; Rear Bulkhead, Rear Lower Shock Suports, Tranny Brace, Front Body Mount Bracket, Chassis Tube Mounts, Yellow Shock Ends

RPM; Body Mounts, Nuts, Spring Cups, Spring Adjusters, Rear Mounts, Front Bumper, Rod Ends

Ofna; Throttle Linkage, Blue Washers

C-Vec Pipe
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=slow1&album_id=35084&image_id=10&courtesy=1

[ 09-02-2001: Message edited by: slow one ]

[slow one]

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=slow1&album_id=35084&image_id=12&show=image¶m=46989

[ 09-02-2001: Message edited by: slow one ]

[slow one]

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=slow1&album_id=35084&image_id=4&courtesy=1

[ 09-02-2001: Message edited by: slow one ]

[Draxx]

Had a quick question. I intend to "defect"
from being a Losi owner to buying a FTGT. I was wondering if it would be worth while to replace the stock diff gear with an alloy one during construction(I used to eat up stock Losi diff gears). Any other "must have"
inprovements would appreciated.I used to mess around with a friends older gt and really liked the simple layout compared to my heavy
GTX.

[DesertRacer]

TeamTed:
I broke my CV-R in all wrong. I ran it rich several tanks, varying the RPM and workload. Then I began leaning it out. When the engine was new it was so stiff – I had rubber dust off my starter wheel everywhere. Didn’t think the old starter wheel was going to survive the ordeal. After 4 tanks, half a starter wheel and one argument with my wife (she was helping by pushing on the throttle at the wrong time – laugh) the CV-R loosen up. Now she fires right up, idles well, good fuel economy and sounds crisp!

Don’t know if you saw the last issue of RC Nitro but the CV-R dyno’ed out at .88hp on 20% with a big fat, linear power band. At full throttle from a start on the dirt I can’t keep the car straight because of tire spin. Applying the power ever so slightly allows the car to accelerate briskly without breaking loose. You can control the power of this engine - really like the power band. Can’t imagine needing or controlling more power unless you’re driving on a hard surface. It’s so much fun to drive…

The one thing I don’t like about the motor is the plastic linkage arm on the carburetor. It bends under pressure but so far it’s hanging in there. The engine also comes with an airfilter, which is a plus. The air filter fits so well on the motor.

I have a new RB C-12 sitting here. Bought both engines at the same time thinking I’d use the CV-R for practice and the RB for racing. Haven’t installed the RB because I’m so pleased with the CV-R. I really underestimated it when I bought it. It’s a jewel! (What I probably need is another car for the RB – grin)

Not trying to talk you out of a Picco (I have 3 Piccos .21on-road car, .40marine and .60aircraft racing engines; they’re great). I’m sure you’ll be happy with either. Just sharing my experience with my CV-R and RC10GT.

[DesertRacer]

Draxx,

I'm using the stock gears. There's some discussion on this subject. The alloy gears may cause alloy particles to gear into your differential as they wear. I bought a spare transmission instead ($82). Haven't broken my first gear yet - I've tried (about 1 gallon into it).

The nylon gears are self lubricating as well and only cost a few dollars. I'd stick with stock unless you find a compelling reason to change to alloy.

The transmission is so simple - it only takes 15 minutes to take out, service, and put back in.

Hope you like your RC10GT! Can't think of anything on the car that needs to be replaced. It's all a matter of personal taste...

[DesertRacer]

SlowOne, Looks great!

[TRXboy]

Ok maby its just me but i cant get my O.S tuned for anything, went back to rotary carb, still cant get it going right, it just seems slugest, always sound rich, never crisp..i dunno...And it cant hold an Idol for anything...really anoying.

[ilovemygt]

trxboy i had the same problem with my os .12 cv it would never idel and then i got a new cvr it runs great it will sit and idle for 20-30 and still not die when i give it throttle it still comes off the line good its a very good engine

[Lowrider170]

Can the RTR Gt take a good bashing??

[Portlander]

yes, the RTR can take a bashing, as much as the FT GT, except for the titanium turnbuckles, shock towers, and the chassis is a bit weaker.
but I do believe the GT is better for racing, it's not a T-Maxx.

[ 09-02-2001: Message edited by: Portlander ]

[atm92484]

All of the GTs are good bashers not to mention awesome racers. I know me and my friend have both done some abuse to ours but they keep coming back.

Draxx, you don't need any after market gears. The stock ones are some of the best in the business and like DesertRacer said, the alloy ones can cause more harm than good.

TRX, how old is this engine? Its possible you may have an airleak or the piston and sleeve might just be worn.

[TRXboy]

ATM-Its a CV-R...i have like a gallon threw it...never thought of an Air Leak tho....that could be a possibility...top end is not bad its just low end...Its simply not good it bogs and every thing...i dunno....I'm gunna take the carb apart tongiht and seal it back up...

[RC10GTMark]

Nick, it is an air leak, the carb you sent me fixed my air leak.

[TRXboy]

Looks like im taking apart the carb tongiht, thanks dude...

[Railman]

Slow One< Nice truck, very neat, nice paint job! Good work! :cool:
I noticed your running the slide carb with the lightweight flywheel, & are using the outside hole on the servo horn for the throttle. Isn't that a little snappy on the throttle. If your able to control it with that set up, your a much better driver than I am! I have a few suggestions you might be interested in to get a better feel from the throttle at low end. Let me know. Joe

[Jwelch]

Lowrider, the RTR is tough. The AE.15 will never need replacing unless you toast it or want a crazy fast (and expensive) race engine.

[Railman]

Low Rider, It all depends on what you want to achieve. The stock arms are much more RIDGID that the RPM arms. However the RPM arms will not break as easily due to the bend but don't break qualities...just like rubber. In my opinion, if your racing stay with the stock arms. They handle much better. If your bashing go with the RPM arms...they're hard to break. Joe

[Draxx]

Thanks for the info guys...I will run her stock and see what I break ;)

[Mrzoidburg]

New RC10GT guy here! :)
It's in the mail.
Quick question, can I run a slide carb ok?
I've got the Factory Team on it's way and i'm going to put my RB C12 Slide carb in it. Does this kit come with everything I need to install a slide, including instructions?
Thanks in advance

MrZ

[Gokou]

It is fairly easy to install a slide in a GT, but because of the minimal travel needed to operate it, having a good radio with EPAs and exponential is strongly advised to get a decent progressive throttle "feel" with a slide carb. Railman can elaborate further as he runs a slide and can share his setup experiences.

As for installing the linkage, look here: http://www.teamassociated.com/basicshub/troubleshooting/slidecarb_web.pdf

I know I've been a ghost here lately but I am still hiding in the shadows. I've been too busy with work and my real car to really be an active member like I used to be. Heck, my GT hasn't been driven since mid-May :rolleyes:

Installed a new torque converter in my real car yesterday, and according to my Vericom it'll now do a 11.8ish 1/4 mile. I'll have to head up to the strip next week for some real numbers on paper. Not bad for a daily driver, which means I can now get my GT to the track faster :D

[ 09-03-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[RC10GTMark]

http://www22.brinkster.com/markt1230/linkage.jpg

Well here is a pic of my slide carb linkage. I will have pics of my entire truck later, right now it is too dirty to take in the house, and the light outside sucks, as you can tell from this picture. Ill clean it up and take a normal pic later.

The green rubber band is my simple throttle return rubber band.

Oh yea, the batteries are there cause my reciever pack died and forgot to charge it.. and I needed a quick fix.

[ 09-03-2001: Message edited by: Mark ]

[atm92484]

Hey MrZ. With the RB if its not a short shaft, you do know that you are going to have to cut it. Don't worry though: AE includes a special just that you install. Then you just cut off what is sticking out.

Good luck.

[Mrzoidburg]

Goku,
Thanks for the link.

Mark,
i couldn't see your pic, thanks anyway.

atm,
yeah, i'm ready to cut the RB shaft, don't tell the guys on the HPI forum that I got a GT!
:D

oh, 1 more thing, does the parts required to set up a slide carb (as per the link above) come with the FTGT?

MrZ

[ 09-03-2001: Message edited by: Mrzoidburg ]

[atm92484]

LOL they'd flip. Dunno if it was just me but even when the NMT was brand new, my GT still saw more action. I don't think you'll be disappointed with it. BTW you are atleast the second major person on HPI whose gotten a GT. Epic picked his up a few weeks ago.

All the linkage stuff for setting up a slide carb is included. Unlike with the NMT, the same parts are just set up differently for the different carbs.

Next time I have the digital camera home I promise guy I'll snap some pics of my radio box and my linkage.

[ 09-03-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[Mrzoidburg]

thanks heaps man!
:)

My local club mainly races 2wd and i think i'll be able to go further in Australia with the FTGT. I gotta learn how to drive 2wd now, should be a challenge.
:D
MrZ

[Jace2000]

MrZoidburg..
Welcome to the forum. Where abouts are you in the land down under? I used to live in Chatswood, Sydney.

[RC10GTMark]

Here you go. A little not, you have to turn the throttle servo around in it's mounts, to move the nubby that sticks outta the server further towards the front of the truck.

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/358-Mark/Linkage.jpg

[ 09-03-2001: Message edited by: Mark ]

[ 09-03-2001: Message edited by: Mark ]

[Portlander]

What do you do Jace? Being in Korea now and you used to live in Austalia.

[RC10GTMark]

Ok I seem to have a bit of a problem. I have went through 13 sets of clutch bearings. Anyone who has a CV-R using associated clutch bells, please tell me exactly how you have it setup.

Draw a picture of the clucth nut, where you have spacers/shims, bearings, anything else you have.

I can not figure this out and if I go through on more set of bearings im selling the gt for the first offer, it is just not fun anymore. I suspected the brake dragging, but it is not, not at all. I even completely took the brake off an ddrove, and still blew bearings.

If anyone can help, it will save my GT.

[Mrzoidburg]

Hey thanks :)

I live near Brisbane in Queensland.

Mark, thanks for the pic.

I guess i will now go back and read all the old pages on this thread and pick up what I can.

Thanks heaps
:)
MrZ

[atm92484]

I don't know what you're doing. I've blown 1 bearing in the year I've had my GT. I'd say first make sure they are shimmed so there isn't any lateral play on the clutch nut but make sure you don't shim it too tight. Next make sure the spur gear and clutch bell spin easily, so there isn't extra stress on the bearings caused by a tight mesh. Check and see if your idle is too high also because this could cause the bearings to blow. As a last resort, switch to bushings in the clutch. Since they would only be spinning during idle, it really wouldn't matter. It wouldn't hurt to try a new clutch nut or clutch bell either since a worn one could cause play and that could lead to bearing failure.

[RC10GTMark]

The gear mesh is fine. The brake is not dragin, the clutch nut, bearings, shims, clutch shoes, clutch bell are all brand spanking new. The bearings are flanged obviously. I can fit one shim behind the bearings, non in front, it gets to tight. I have absolutely no damn clue. What are the bush part numbers? I cant find them, or I would haved used them after like the first 4 bearings.

[atm92484]

Bushings are part number 6863.

[Railman]

Mark, That's a lot of bearings! How much fuel did it take to burn that many up? What clutch are you running? Does your bell turn blue? You might try checking for runnout of the clutch nut. I've heard of some having trouble with this. Take the glowplug out, remove the clutch bell, & then fasten a wire somehow so that it barely touches the shaft. Rotate the crank & look for any runnout. I would think that it should stay within .002 or so, but that's only a guess. I still think that bearing failure is mostly a result of too much heat, in combination with chassis flex, assuming that the gear mesh is good.
What ratio are you running? Do you check your mesh at the tightest point? Try checking at the tightest point & then rotate the crank by hnad with the glowplug out. You may be able to see a runout this way. I've got almost a gallon on my bearings, & they're still good. Have you checked for movement in the mesh by flexing the rear bulkhead. Hold the truck so that you have your fingers under the rear with your thumb on the rear bulkhead. Hold the front with your other hand & try to flex the rear end. Watch the distance between the transmission & the engine. A little change is normal, but that is one thing that causes too much load on the clutch bearings. I use a fairly solid adhesive on my trans brace to help lock it to the bulkhead & trans. I noticed you don't have a trany brace either. You need to do one or the other. Good luck. Joe

[ 09-03-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[Lowrider170]

Some people tell me the RTR GT's a arms are weak is that so.And if thay are what should i replace them with?

[ilovemygt]

it think the a arms are the same in all the gt's if they do break just get RPM ones there are much stronger

[RC10GTMark]

There are two different kind of tranny braces on there, upper and lower. top is fiberglass (white) and the bottom is aluminum, from IRS. I did't check the out of round on my current nut cause it is brand new, but the cluch nut I just took off the truck I checkd, and it was round. These bearings on the new nut did last a day at least. The other ones usually went within 2 or 3 minutes after startup. all this in less than a gallon.

the cluchbell never turned blue, I was always able to touch it after a run. I run the stock cluch, and the mip 4-in-1. i have had better luck with bearings with the stock.

I will try the chassis flex test tomarrow. So far the mesh has been fine though..

Thanks for your help.

[slow one]

Railman;
The way I have it set up now I have about 1/4-1/3 throttle movement before I see any response. I haven't had any problems taking off but I would be more than happy to have any suggestions to make it better. :(

Mark; I had a problem going through clutch bearings also. I had a brand new "RR" clutch bell and I couldn't run a whole tank without blowing the bearings. I replaced the clutch bell, bearings, and clutch nut. It ended my problem. A few months later I put the old clutch bell on (It still looks like new) and started burning bearings again. Sometimes you can get defective parts even new.

All this great info on this forum, I can build a great truck, now if I could only learn to drive it without breaking something(s) maybe I could win. :D :(

[Jace2000]

Portlander, I had to travel here and there due to my father's business when I was young. But now I'm here due to my company. :D

Mark, here's what I did after I blew the inner flange bearing the first time: I stuck a regular bearing between the two flange bearings in the bell. I'm not sure about the regular bearing part # but I'll be more than happy to find it out for ya if you need 'em. I picked up this tip from AE's homepage.
Another thing which I did was, I placed a thin shim on the shaft before the inner flange bearing. Just my 2 cents. :)

PS. What fuel tank is that in your GT?

[ 09-04-2001: Message edited by: Jace2000 ]

[RC10GTMark]

Ill try that with the inner bearing, the LHS has them, it is a common bearing. It is the RTR fuel tank, it has the pressure fitting on top, so I use it.

[DesertRacer]

Reference the clutch-bearing problem. Just wanted to pitch in my 2 cents in on top of all the good information. About 15 years ago I used to race a Kyosho Fantom on-road with a Nova Rossi .21. For bearing I ran 4 non-flanged bearings (5x8x2.5mm). On the associated there’s only two flanged bearing.

After the run-out and flex has been checked. Seems a couple of non-flanged bearings in-between the flanged ones would help carry the load. Or a hybrid test idea. Put two bushings in-between…

Before the ball bearings, we used to use needle bearings (in a cage). On my old buggy I run these because I can’t keep anything else in there.

[RC10GTMark]

Thanks for the ideas everyone. I think what I am gonna try is 2 normal flanged bearings, new shims, and a bearing, or 2 if they will fit, inbetween the flanged. If that fails, I know a machinest who might be able to make me a clutch nut 5/16's in diameter, with no bearings/bushings, lol metal on metal.

He said he could do it, weather it would work is beyond me, im guessing alot of heat. I might try bushings throughout though.

[RC10GTMark]

Pretty soon, we will have the biggest thread, again. :D

[RC10GTMark]

QUICK! EVERYONE, STOP POSTING!!!

[Jace2000]

My GOD~
Where did everyone go off to?
Mark, what did you do with 'em? :D

[atm92484]

I was just wondering the same thing.

[ritchies rc10gt]

well lets see if this picture works it is my gt after running in the mud http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/366-ritchy/tGT1.jpg

[ritchies rc10gt]

ok now i know how to post pictures i just need to figure out how to make them bigger

[Jace2000]

I think this forum was moving faster when we had that awsome 2000 something post. :(

[Mrzoidburg]

You want some work?
Ok, i just bought a FTGT which I will install my RB C12 with slide carb.
I'm comming straight from a HPI NMT so tell me, what spares should I carry for this truck.
Thanks
:)
MrZ

[RC10GTMark]

Front A-Arms, shock towers, couple turn buckles, misc nuts and bolts, couple spur gears.

[Mrzoidburg]

Ok I hear ya about the spur gears and nuts & bolts, but A-arms?
I thought i'd left that behind with my NMT!

Also, the FTGT comes with graphite shocktowers front & rear also the titanium turnbuckles, will I realistically have problems with these parts?
MrZ

[Jace2000]

MrZ, I'm currently using the RPM A-arm and I've had the same one eversince I first got my FTGT. That was almost a year ago.
Some of my friends are using the stock ones but they don't seem have any problems with it. I'm sure that Mark was implying that it's safe practice to have one around just in case. Even I carry spare RPM A-arms.
The graphite shocktowers and turnbuckles shouldn't be too much of a worry. If you crashed hard enough to break these, I think you'll have more serious parts to worry about. :D

[atm92484]

Ya, I too would reccomend atleast having a few different black, steel screws (not the ones included with the FT) just to be safe along with some spur gears. However, I'd highly reccomend that you get machined plastic spur gears by Robinson Racing. As for the front arms- I've had the same set on my GT for almost 3 years and they are still running strong. They are much more durable than the NMT's but if you hit something hard enough they will break. Since you are racing, get the stock ones as they are more rigid over the RPM ones.

[Trucks]

as long as you don't run (fly around the track)your truck without the body you shouldn't have any poblems with the shock towers. Out of all the towers I have seen broken, all of them were broken with the body off. :)

[ritchies rc10gt]

ok lets try this again.
you guys wanna hear a dirty joke?One GT drove through a mud puddle
http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/366-ritchy/ttrack3.jpg

[ 09-06-2001: Message edited by: ritchies rc10gt ]

[Railman]

RithiesGT, Have you no sense of decency? You shouldn't go around bragging about abusing a defensless acumulation of nuts & bolts like that! :eek: What a shame!! :rolleyes: :p :D
How in the world did you do that?
Joe

[afr0sch]

Bulletprrofing the GT and spare parts:

Like you guys said earlier,RPM A-arms front and rear are the only way to go! Get captured ball cups for the steering turnbuckles. Lunsford Ti turnbuckles are a must have also cause the stock ones can bend! These parts can drastically improve the toughness of the truck and will keep you on the track running, not running to the pits!
You can't win if your truck can't finish!

Spares: 4-40 SHCS in varying lengths, 4-40 FH screws in varying lengths. (Usually only replace a screw when just doing maintenance to tighten things up) Extra RPM A-Arms (probably will never use the spares, those things are tough) I keep a whole set of CVDs and bearings just in case.

Drive well and don't hit anything, then you wont ever really use the spares!

Its kinda cool when you trade a little paint with your buddy and he goes to the pits while you keep on truckin'!

[Railman]

MrZoidburg: E clips, clutch clips, clutch bearings, MIP clutch upgrade, #2 setting, is well worth it,(if you don't already have it), RPM rear bulkhead is the best IMHO (install it right away & use the stock one as a spare), ball studs, ball cups. It's not a bad idea to keep spare arms around like the guys said. You may go years without any problem, or you might break one the 1st time out. Regardless what the vehicle is most racers keep spare arms. The little screws that hold on the spur gear are easy to lose & strip, get them, axle pins, wheel nuts, glow plugs. I'm shure there's more, but that'll get you started, with a reasonable amount of security.

When you set up the slide be shure to install the rod on the inside of the servo horn, towards the rear of the truck as far as posible without binding on anything. That will give you some low end feel, because it will take more servo travel initially to open the slide. As it opens to midd throttle it will square up & give full 1:1 response. It make it much easier to controll in med to low traction conditions. Also bend the brake arm so that it is square to the servo rod so as to give the best braking response possible. Use the outer hole on the servo horn for the brake rod. That way the brake will release 100% before the throttle hits. If the throttle hits before the brake fully releases, it will spin out. Hope this helps, & keep asking questions.
Joe

[afr0sch]

Forgot about the RPM bulkhead! That is a must have just like Rail said.

As far as spur gears go, if you have your mesh right, you can run the non-metal ones for quite a while. I have a 66T Kimbrough that I've used for over 4 months and its still in great shape. :)

The MIP clutch on the #2 setting IS the way to go.

MIP light-drives (outdrives) break. I'd suggest sticking with the stock AE ones.

Anybody else running the RPM oversized rear hub carriers? The bearings are hard to find, but you can get them from an industrial bearing house if you need to. The larger bearings make the rear hubs super smooth and beefy!

[ 09-06-2001: Message edited by: Andrew Frosch ]

[Railman]

In my opinion, the 1/2" bearing hubs & 1/4" axles are not the way to go for racing. They originally came out with those to replace the 1/4x3/8" ball bearings that were on the original GT's. We bought two sets of the 1/2" hubs & 1/4" axle CVD's before we found out that they changed the axle to 3/16. That made it a 3/16 x 3/8 bearing that is plenty durable (never seen one fail), & results in way less unsprung weight...best of both worlds. Like I said we ran the 1/2" bearings for a long time, but I don't see where they have a real advantage in durability, they wear out just as fast. As far as the arms go, stay with the stock ones for racing, & use the RPM's for bashing. The stock ones handle way better because they are much more ridgid. My son has never broken an arm, & I've only broken one , & that was when someone stepped in front of my truck on a staightaway. I definately do my share of hard crashing on the race track too! Just my$.02 Joe

edit: 1/4" changed to 1/2" (bearings) Was too confusing!

[ 09-06-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[ 09-07-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[ilovemygt]

iam trading my nitro rs4 for a rc10gt factory team ill have 2 gt now :D :D

[Mrzoidburg]

Great advice guys, much appreciated :)

MrZ

[ritchies rc10gt]

i was bored and it rained for 3 days and i just decided to go use the local track to have some fun.there was a big puddle of mud in the middle of the straight.dont worry NO GT's were hurt during the taking of those pictures.if you think that looks bad you should have seen my bathtub when i was done cleaning it :D

[Portlander]

you'd think the guys leg would of broken, not the A-arm. I've only broken one, I went full speed in to my dads full size car tire, busted the right A-arm, and stripped a gear in my steering servo and....that was it. :D

[Jace2000]

Andrew, have you tried using the MIP lite outdrive? I was just about to get 'em. I didn't know that they break that easily. Can you tell me in what kind of condition you broke them in? I mean, were you just casually running at the track or full out bashing? I'm having second thoughts about them... :confused:

Railman, does the stock arms improve handling noticebly? My local track has some nasty jumps and I'm reluctant to change to stock. I've got a race coming up this weekend and I'm wondering if I should try the stock ones.

[Railman]

Jace, There's a huge difference. I used to run the RPM arms while my son ran the stock ones. I always wondered why his was easier to drive. His was just more precise & predicatable with fewer surprises. When you took the two trucks side by side & did the flex test, it was amazing how different they where. They are not as stiff as graphite arms would be, but then they don't break as easily either. It's pretty well documented that stiffer arms handle better. The problem is breakage. Like I said above the only arm we ever broke was a collision with a spectator who stepped onto the track at the end of a staightaway. I've hit building beams, walls, done cartwheels off triples, pretty much anything you can imagine, without breaking. I would bet that if you went to a national meet there would be very few RPM arms. It's very rare that racing will break them. Put one arm on the front & compare the flex to the other. Good luck this weekend. ;)
Joe

[Jace2000]

Joe, thanks for the quick response and explanation. I'll try racing with the stock arms this weekend. Wish me luck guys~! Gotta bash the other brand trucks. :D

[hpi racer2]

hey jacemaster, how ya been? Good luck at your race!! :D
did you get my private message? :p :D

[Gokou]

Jace-- Railman is right, you will probably notice a *big* difference between the stock arms and the stock arms. I leave the RPM arms on my truck when it's on the shelf and when I bash, but I put the stock arms back on when I race for precisely the reasons Railman said-- handling consistency. The RPM arms get their amazing durability from their amazing flexibility. Unfortunately that flex makes handling inconsistent because any decent bumps will cause arm flex, which obviously causes large changes in suspension geometry. With RPM arms on my truck, it would have a nasty habit of darting all over the rougher sections of the track. With the stock arms, it would go almost perfectly straight. The RPM arms don't really make the truck a handful to control, but handling is definately more consistent with the stock arms. Too bad the stock arms don't look as nice as the RPM a-arms :p

[Jace2000]

Hpiracer2,
Hey~ where have you been? I'll send you a private message. :)

[Gokou]

Oh and Andrew, how are you breaking the MIP lite drives? I have a set on now, and I have over a gallon of fuel through them, and I'm spinning them with a modified MT-12. I haven't managed to bend them, much less break them. Then again, I can see how they could snap when heavily shock-loaded, such as landing on-power from a jump, something which I haven't done...

[ 09-06-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[Jace2000]

Goku, thanks for the input. I guess I'll try the MIP lite drives but still have the stock ones in hand just in case. ;)

[Railman]

Heh Goku, Good to see you back! How many sets of tires have you smoked on your car? :rolleyes: That thing looks wicked fast. How many mpg, or is it gpm? :D ;)
Joe

[TRXboy]

gokou i broke my Lire drive's to, i wish i didnt throw em out, i would have snaped a pic, pretty disapointed, it was when i had a TRX .15 in my GT to(Like 2 years ago this happend) so maby they changed the design, i dunno...but then again i have a habit of breaking stuff :p

[afr0sch]

hehe..now you guys are inquiring as to how I have broken the lite drives, like I am some dumb smuck that is doing something wrong..hehe..thats funny!

Goku, only a half gallon on them? Thats it?
Well, I race every other weekend and practice at another track at least twice a week for 3-4 hours. 1 gallon of gas lasts me about 2-3 weeks. I run an RB-C12 in the GT. I don't crash much at all really, but all of the tracks I run at have BIG jumps, several BIG jumps. I've broken 2 left outdrives and 1 right. So just this Tuesday I rebuilt a new dif with the stock AE outdrives, but I do recommend highly the MIP dif balls and the thrust rebuid kit!!! That makes a great dif that is way smoother than the stock AE parts and gives better acceleration!

As a bonus just so you guys can be super curious..I've also had the dogbone end of Shiny CVDs break off also! 2 as a matter of fact! Neato huh?! I don't really do any bashing. My time is all spent on a track practicing or racing..hard...thats it.

I run 1/8 scale expert also, and both my cars run better than most drivers at the tracks I go to. If I don't win a heat or the A-main, its only because I drove like crap that day, not because the car let me down! Mine always finish! No flameout no nothing...30 minute A-mains no prob...gas and go baby!!!
:)

[ 09-07-2001: Message edited by: Andrew Frosch ]

[Gokou]

The stock AE outdrives are bulletproof, but I was wearing them out (where the pins in the CVDs ride) within half a gallon. My MIP lite drives have over a gallon on them with the MT-12 (and 2 gallons on my modded CV before that) and show virtually no wear. Maybe I've been lucky... They are hogged out quite a bit and look more suited to an electric car, but so far I've had great luck with mine. Then again it could be just me... if you want to be safe, the stock outdrives are the way to go.

And yes Andrew, the MIP diff rebuilt kit is great. I used it last time I fully rebuilt my diff and I prefer it to the stock stuff.

Railman-- I just got a new pair of tires two weeks ago. All those videos were filmed in the 3 days prior to putting the new tires on. I can't go give the guys at the tireshop a set of tires with perfectly good tread left, can I? :rolleyes:

While I had the tranny out over the weekend to install a new torque converter, I pulled the motor back out and took it down to my friend's shop to dyno. With the new carb (a 750 double pumper now instead of vacuum secondaries) it's now putting out 485hp and 459 lb/ft of torque, up from 455hp/443 lb-ft of torque with the vacuum secondary carb. A 1" 4-hole spacer was good for yet another 13hp/10lb-ft at peak (and lots more torque below 3000rpm) but I don't have the hood clearance for it :mad: With the stock 1800 stall converter I was getting 11.5mpg in town and 15-15.5 on the freeway. Now, with the 3000 stall converter I'm getting about 8.5 in town, mostly because I have to rev the thing up to 2200-2500 to get moving decently... the high stall converter is terrible for around town drivability, but it sure is a TON of fun when you step on it, and that's all that really matters, isn't it? :D

I'll have to shoot some new videos with the new torque converter (if I can get a set of cheapie tires)... those videos are tame compared to how the car acts now :D


Andrew, you run 1/8th? Lucky bugger. :p I've been wanting to pick up a Mugen XR for months now, but I've been dumping all my free fundage into my real cars and shooting... Maybe I need to rearrange my priorities? ;)

[ 09-07-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[afr0sch]

Gokou, I've got an XR! Won the A-main with 20 entrants the 1st weekend I raced it at Delta RC in Antioch back in July. I see you are in Santa Clara! Ever go up to Delta?

I highly recommend the XR over a Kyosho anytime. Way more durable and turns better. If you can't drive 1/8 scale without crashing alot, the Kyoshos will break on you. The Mugen seems to be better built in my opinion. I know guys with Kanai edition Kyoshos, and they can't finish a long main without something breaking if they bash the car a bit during the race.

Get you stuff from Ace-hobbies up in Burlingame. JR and Kevin are good guys with good prices! Best place in the Bay Area for 1/8 scale stuff! www.ace-hobbies.com (http://www.ace-hobbies.com) :)

[Railman]

Andrew, usually thr reason ther pins break on the CVD's is because the outdrive is worn. What happens is it gets locked in to the dished spot in the out drive under acceleration, & then if you hit a bump, they snap. My son broke two in his old tub GT wihin a qt of each other. Put in new outdrives & problem was solved. Sounds like you take your racing pretty serious! Wish I could race that much, but I can't.

BTW I have 2 sisters that live in the bay area. Looking forward to your future posts.
Joe

[Gokou]

Andrew-- actually, I'm back home in Stockton now, I went to school over in Santa Clara. Either way, I'm still close to Antioch :) I haven't been able to make it out at all this summer, because I've been working Saturdays almost every weekend :( The program I'm supporting is short on engineers, so the two of us that are working the program are severely overworked. Hopefully once we get into a production mode I'll have my Saturdays again, then I have a good reason to go get that XR. I'll probably get it from Ace, they have everything I'd need and at good prices, plus as you said, JR and Kevin are great. Hopefully I'll make it out to Delta later this summer or once they have their winter track set up. I'll probably be working weekends for another 2 months at least, then I'll probably free up and can make it out to race. Gotta pay for that Ruger red label over and under first though... ;)

BTW Andrew, what are you running for a powerplant in your XR? I've been eyeing the RB C4... (Everything I own is overpowered, why not continue the trend?)

[ 09-07-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[TRXboy]

Gokou go S7

[ilovemygt]

o iam so happy iam getting another gt :D :D its a factory team too ill have 2 factory team gts its gonna be cool

[RC10GTMark]

just curious, what can u do with 2 gts u cant do with one?

[ilovemygt]

one is gonna be set up for racing and one for bashing or if my dad wants to drive one at the track the only reason iam getting it is because iam trading my nitro rs4 with .12 cv for a ft team gt with a cvr

[Big Wig]

I have a question about using RTV:

I remember Railman saying he doesn't use a header gasket,.. just uses a little RTV. Well, yesterday I sealed my carb, backplate and header with RTV but I had to run the truck to find out if this solved my problem. I waited about 1.5 hours and let it rip. It ran great! On the tube, it says it needs to cure for 24 hours,... do you all wait that long? I can't imagine,.. what if you're at a race and you don't used header gaskets, then you need to take the header off? You'd be screwed ;)

Well, I hope the ol' .12spd runs OK today,... a couple of buddies are bringing their GT's over. It will be the first time we've had 3 GT's on my track!

thanks
Jay

[ritchies rc10gt]

it takes 24 hours to fully cure.but it is usually good to go in about 30 minutes but has a chance to blow out on you.i have used it and only waited 10 minutes and it is still holding.but on real cars i dont even use it.i have seen some good engines blow because somebody used too much or didnt wait long enough for it to cure.when it squezes(sp?)out it fall into the oil pan and gets sucked up into the oil pump and shuts it down

[Railman]

With the thin amounts of RTV that you use, in combination with vitually all of it being
in open areas, it doesn't take very long to be safe. I usually don't have to reseal my headers once it's done once. Anyway, I can usually let it set for a few minutes & go. The heat and air quickly cure it. If the header is seated flat it wouldn't leak even if it id somehow blow out. Do this test, apply a thin layer on a piece of plastic, wait about 20 minutes & see what it looks like. I don't think a few hrs of curing is a problem with the rest, as long as it's exposed to air. You could heat it up a little to help speed the cure, but I usually don't. I'm not sure where any of it could harm much anyway unless it somehow got into the fuel tract. If it get's into the crankcase/cylnder, it's just going to blow out. The key to that stuff is to use no more than is necesary to do the job. But then again, maybe I've just been lucky. :rolleyes: Joe

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Drove my gt today finally :D!!!! darn i forgot how fast the CV-R is.

[Sponsored By Tyco]

NO gouko its not you i have the mip outdrives and have about 1 1/2 gallons on them with my
cv-r. and have barely any wear.

[ 09-08-2001: Message edited by: Sponsored By Tyco ]

[Skateboarder]

Man, its been a while since Ive posted since posted anything since I started colledge. Anyway today was my 18th(yay Im legal now) birthday and I got some cash and I would like to get some on road tires for my gt. I was wondering which ones were better between the road hawgs 2,road rage and speed hawgs.I was also wondering if I should forget about the on road tires and get some basher tires like the dirt works since they would be good for on and off road use.
Thanks

[KC10Chief]

Went a little crazy tonight. Took first place in the A main and decided to celebrate by getting a Meugen MT .12! I can't wait to feel the power of my new engine on race night! HOO HOO HEE HEE HA HA HA HA HAAAAAAAA!!!!!! Well, unless my wife finds out how much it cost and she kills me first.

[afr0sch]

Hey Gokou, I'm running an RB WS7 in that baby. Hauls butt but not silly speed like you can get with the C4. The majority of the 1/8 expert drivers around here run the WS7. It just dominates..enough said.

I've got an RB C-12 in the GT with the X-12 pipe, its smokin too! :eek:

Hey Railman, what you mentioned in the earlier post about the outdrive getting worn and snapping the CVD totally makes sense. I just hadn't put the two together, though it did happen also with a newer outdrive without much wear....hmm. It could be something about the way I drive I guess...hard on the dif. I'm pretty diligent about keeping that dif adjusted, and I do run it tight. Those factors probably contribute to my symptoms I'm sure. Oh well, just keep spares around in my case!

[ 09-09-2001: Message edited by: Andrew Frosch ]

[Jace2000]

Railman, Goku, thanks for the suggestions.
I just got first place in the A-main. I think I was used to the flex from the RPM arms more than I first thought because I wasn't scoring too well in the qualifiers. I became more used to the stock stiffness towards the third round and the rest is history.
Just wanted to drop by and say thanks :D

[Gokou]

Hehehe, no problem Jace. I just wish I could stiffen the RPM arms up. They just look sooooo much better than the stockers, I only wish they could perform like the stockers. Oh well, I guess you can't have everything :rolleyes:

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Congrats Jace.

Gokou, why don't you just make some arms that look the RPM ones out of some exotic material you use in your aero-space job? It would be kind of hard, but I've seen it done.

I got stung by a wasp today. My GT wasn't tuned too great, so I took it right outside my workshop and started it up. Right after I had it tuned nice, a big ol' wasp came up and stung me right on the back of my head. I was so surprised I started cursing like a sailor and running around the back yard. At least my truck is doing well.