Associated RC10GT Forum v2.0

[wojo65]

i got a picco.12 rear exhaust slide carb. i love the engine i just finished breaking it in. I used to have a .12cvx it alot fast i can tell i love this engine soooooooo much hehe :D

[OmegaTrac]

Is a .12 slower than a .15?

[KC10Chief]

Thanks for the help fellas! I finally got it figured out with the MT .12. I took it to the track tonight and the guy took that ring thing on the front of the engine off and there was the fat part of the stud. My clutch and collet slid right on perfectly! I went ahead and got a four shoe clutch for it and some new clutch shoes. I also got a 64 tooth spur gear for it. I was running a 15/66 with my OS .12 CV. Now, I'm having another problem. I attached the header to the back of the engine. It's a meugen header, but it's sticks out too far to the left side of the truck. The body sticks way out and is only about a quarter inch from the rear left wheel since it can't fit around the header with the muffler attached to it. Did I get the wrong header, or will I have to cut away a large section of my body to make this fit? I'll also have to cut an even bigger hole where the exhaust comes out since the pipe is angled such that the exhaust won't come out through the hole that I already had cut in the body for it. Did I get the wrong header or what? Thanks for any info! Matt

[KC10Chief]

That's the thing I'm talking about. The Collet. My MT .12 didn't come with a collet. If I could get one that was the right size to go on the shaft and still fit into my flywheel, I'd be all set. Thanks for the info guys! Any further help would be great! Matt

[atm92484]

No Omega, the .12 is faster. Since .12s are race legal companies spend more time and money developing them. However there are some fast .15s coming out now.

[dfarrales]

what's the difference between pull start and non pull start trucks? I'm looking at a used team rc10gt w/ a nonpull start os .15. Will this truck accept a pull start engine? Just wondering... i'm new to rc10gt's.

deo

[Portlander]

My muffler was ruining the side of my body, so I just cut from the top back of the front left wheel well, to the top front of the rear, cools a little better, and kinda looks cool.

Pull start is like a typical gas lawn mower, you have to yank a cord a bunch of times to get it started. Pullstarts are good and bad, good, you don't have to drag around a large bumb starter or starter box (explained later), but they take a lot longer to start, since you can't turn the engine over as fast as a motor in a box can.
as for bump starters, they are a pretty much a motor with a rubber wheel on the end, put the wheel up to the fly wheel and it starts the engine, starter box is the same but you put the car on a box and press down, good thing is you only need one hand to operate, but the bump you need one to hold starter, one to hold car. those are the most common starting systems, the only parts difference between ps and nps cars are the engine mount and flywheel, the header can be changed, but ps header can be used on nps car.

P.S. traxxas has a electric starter system much like a full-sized car, and HG has a system that uses a drill, called the Yank Eliminator, but they are less popular.

[athowells]

I am thinking about getting the 'Team' version GT. The GT has been ou for a few years now and I am scared that when I buy it they would bring out the GT2. Does anyone know whe the GT2 is coming out or is it not. I would be great if they kept upgrading their kits instead of bringing out new ones. What are some pros and cons of this kit?
I would be getting the O.S .12CV-X engine if I got it. ;)

[Railman]

KC10, It's the right pipe. You need to bend the pipe some, & bend the body some. Goku probably had the bet idea for bending. He put a bending spring inside. Any fairly stiff extension spring that is close to the header id will work. Just put it inside & bend the pipe. You need to use an extreme amount of patience when doing this. Do just a little at a time...bend, check...bend, & check. Don't try to take it all out of the pipe. If you do you will most likely kink it. Once you get some whell clearance, bend the body out. You can do that by gently applying heat to the OUTSIDE of the body just above the pipe area. Most plastic will shrink on the side that heat is applied. Remember to be patient, or you may have to wait & order the new Trinity header pipe that is not yet released. Good luck!

Ps: Even if you end up with a less than perfect bend on the header, it'll still perform awsome! Most end up with small kinks, & partially flat areas, but still perform well.
Joe

[Portlander]

with all the great upgrades for the GT out there now, their kind of is a GT2. the Team edition is great, most people would go for the Factory Team, which has a couple of more options, but Team kit is great too. even the RTR is good, with a the powerful AE .15 in it.

[Gokou]

Railman beat me to explaining my own method :p

Get a tubing bending spring (basically a spring that fits snugly inside the pipe to keep it from collapsing when you bend it); then use a torch on LOW heat and GENTLY heat the header while applying steady pressure to bend it. To fit properly, you need to bend the header inwards and upwards. It can be done, but it does take patience. Don't try to bend it all at once, and don't take it too far-- the manifold will split. I got lucky with my first manifold-- it bend into exactly the shape I wanted without giving me any grief. The second manifold I tried to bend split when I only had it bent half as much as my first manifold. Luck seems to be part of the game... Don't get the manifold too hot either or you will anneal the aluminum and it will become even softer than it is out of the package.

You can see how much I managed to rework my manifold-- look HERE (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/gt_top_1.jpg).

I know that Trinity and Novarossi are both working on rear exhaust manifolds for trucks, but I haven't seen either of them for sale yet.

[ 09-12-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[athowells]

Have any of yous ever broken/cracked/bent your chassis? :eek:
Is the new chassis as good as they say?
How long and what does that included VHS video with the kits?
;)

[ 09-12-2001: Message edited by: athowells ]

[gtwolfpack]

I have never bent the new one piece chassis myself and actually think you will never bend one unless you crash head on into something really hard like concrete block...Has anyone used the so called Crescenzi RC10GT Brake System? Does the brake system really deliver more progressive braking than the typical disc brake? Feedback from anyone experienced will be appreciated... ;)

[athowells]

Do any of yous have the RTR. I got told that the engine is not very good and that the chassis breaks easy. :mad:

[Portlander]

for one, I've used the new brake system, and it's great, it never fades, and since I was using a hot .15, the old brake was fading a lot,it also stays adjusted for ever, I adjusted it only after a broke it in, which includes driving around for a few minutes.

the RTR is a great truck, with a good AE .15 in it, it's powerful, strong, and is great for beginners. The chassis is made from something different from the team and factory team edition, but you still need to hit something big a strong to bend it. other difference is that the shock towers are plastic (weaker), and the turnbuckles steel (weaker, instead of titanium) I've got a RTR, and I haven't broken a tower or a turnbuckle. Yet..... ;)

[ 09-12-2001: Message edited by: Portlander ]

[Mrzoidburg]

Oooh, i'm happy! :)

Tower just delivered my FTGT, the only thing is i'm on 2 weeks holidays from tomorrow so I gotta wait to build it.
2 weeks later it'll be on the track with my RB C12.
Can't wait!
MrZ

[Railman]

GoKou, I waited a day for you to show, & figured KC was probably tired of waiting....
I figured I'd get it close enough to at least give him a head start. :p ;)
Joe

[Gokou]

Hehehe, thanks for covering for me :D

I'm miffed at my truck right now... one of my progressive piggybacks is leaking, and I can't figure out why-- the retaining ring is good, the o-ring looks good... I didn't catch the leak until I got home today and noticed shock oil was puddled on my desk. I haven't even driven the thing in months, and the other three are dry as a bone. I guess I'll just order a rebuild kit and hope it works :rolleyes: Then again, it could be a sign that my truck needs to be driven more often ;)

[athowells]

How good is the GT 'Team Built'. Does it come with that new upgrade chassis? ;)

[TRXboy]

alright guys, i will most likly not be aroud here anymore for some time, if anyone has tuned on a TV you should beable to do the math, as fare as i know RC is as fare down as it ould possbly be on my things to do list.

-Nick

[Railman]

TRX, Our thoughts & prayers are with you. Good luck. Hope to see you around when things get better. Wish I could say or do something to help. These are sad times.
Joe

[ 09-12-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[afr0sch]

Hey Gokou, do those progressive suspension piggyback shock caps work worth a darn? What change do you see in the suspension behavior?

[Gokou]

The suspension is butter-smooth with the progressive piggybacks, plus they stay much more consistent during a run because the oil doesn't aerate, as it does with the stock shocks. Are they worth the $63? It depends. If your driving is already very consistent, you can tune your truck well and you've got it to the point where it can't get any better, and you're looking to make the truck drive a bit smoother on the track, yes, I think they are worth it. The truck just rides smoother over bumps and soaks up jumps better. If you still need other more pressing upgrades on your truck (bearings, CVDs, MIP clutch, etc) get those first. There are other upgrades out there which have a much higher priority (in my opionion) because they have a much better return on the dollar than the piggybacks.

[Trucks]

Trxboy, We are all thinking about what happened and are very sad and angry at the events of the last cople of days.

pnp, we raced dirt oval sunday. Where were you?

this week will be the last points offroad race for points on the old track, and then the last dirt oval is next week.

atm, sorry about striping your crank, but mine has a stud that screws into the crank, if you cut the stud to short then all you have to do is replace the stud and try again. :(

[PnP 420 Racing]

Heck,I couldnt make it,besides,i have my truck's engine torn out,i'm replacing the heatsink and the sleeve and piston. I need to know HOW to get that darn sleeve and piston out of there though!

-Crash "Dont worry...Dont worry...I'm not gonna do whatcha think I'm gonna do..FLIP OUT MAN! All's I wanna know is,who's comin with me....? Who's comin?......Who's comin with me man?" :eek: :eek:

[ 09-13-2001: Message edited by: PnP 420 Racing ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Pothead, put a zip-tie in the exhaust port and crank the engine over. The piston will catch on the zip tie, and push the sleeve out.

Mark O.

[KC10Chief]

Got my Mugen MT .12 all broke in and took it out to the track tonight to practice. This thing is AWESOME. It blows away my OS .12 CV. I am running a 15 tooth clutch bell and I changed the spur gear from a 66t to 64t. It has monster power, but with the 64T spur, the tendency to wheelie isn't so great. IT still accelerates like crazy and the top end speed is really fast. I love this motor! It runs great! The only thing is that it runs at 240 even up to 250 degrees. I'd like for it to be around 220, but can't get it to go down that low. I've fattened up the top end, but when I do it too much it bogs down. I guess as long as it's running good and reliable with lots of power, I'll just leave it the way it is. This engine rocks! Matt

[Jace2000]

KC10Chief, it's OK for those engines to run at that temp. Novarossi based engines perform best around 120C~130C. But it's safe to keep them near 120C.
Another thing to keep in mind when using European produced engine is that their .12 engines come off the product line tuned for 16% nitro fuel. If you're using a higher nitro mix (say 30%), it has a tendency to make the engine overheat a little bit and unstable. I'm not 100% sure but I believe the MT12 comes with a 0.3mm head shim between the head and the engine.
If you wanna keep your engine running at safer zone, try slipping a 0.2mm shim to get a total of 0.5mm. 0.5mm spacing is what the European pro drivers recommend when using .12 engines with 30% nitro.

[Zedstr]

when i decide to dust off my completely stock TEAM GT with tub chassis and bring it up to current specs (since it is 6years old or so) what would ya'll recommend getting? mostly i need to know if i need anything else besides the blue chassis. so far i need about $30.00 dollars in parts just to get it running as is. thanks for your replies. i'm sure this has been asked before but geez, you guys have a lot to say!
Zed

[Portlander]

welcome back to GT racing, Zedstr. As for new parts, the chassis is the biggest, don't forget the new engine mount, and since there are no wall to the chassis, they make chassis brace tube mounts that bolt onto the chassis. The rear A-arms are different too, I don't think you could adjust wheel base with the old GT, but it's also not nessarcary to change. There is probably more, but I'm not too fimilar with the tub chassis.

[ 09-14-2001: Message edited by: Portlander ]

[atm92484]

Welcome back Zedster. All you need to buy is a conversion kit. Its like $45 and it includes every part needed to put a plate chassis on the GT. This includes the chassis, engine mounts, different hub carriers, rear suspension mounts (both are updated), nose tube braces, and screws to install all of this.

[athowells]

Go to http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/KitSpecs,GT/rc10gt_upgrade_kit.htm

[rolo]

Hey guys I bought a mip light flywheel but didnt bother to look at the package that it is for a nonpullstart engine. What I have running on my gt is an AE .15 pullstart. Will my engine work still if I put it on my ae .15 even though the flywheel is for non pullstarts? :confused:

thanks

[athowells]

How good is the Associated Air Filter Kit (#7705)?
Does it keep the crap out the engine?
http://www.gpmd.com/images/ascc8905.JPG

[Zedstr]

i like the associated air filter. yeah, thanks for the tip on the upgrade kit! i saw it at tower for 50 bucks. i'll probly order the other parts i need for the truck to get it running tomorrow and hold off on the upgrade for my check next week.

[Sponsored By Tyco]

geeze i am not here much anymore but you people have been posting alot! your almost caught up to the XXXN'T's which means the rc10gt is alot more popular.!.!.!.! Well now i haven' run my truck in awhile because neighbors said it was to loud and bothered them when they are trying to relax and called the cops so i can't run it.!. :( :mad:

[Zedstr]

you know i can think of a few nice words for neighbors like that........

[Portlander]

yeah the MIP lightweight flywheel will work on the AE. 15, howerver, since it is smaller in diameter, it won't be as accesable as the correct pullstart flywheel has (to stop the engine). it would usually go with the shorter engine mount.
Now I got a question for ya all, what is your opinion of anti- sway bars for the GT, I have a bit of a flipping problem, aqnd if they can be home made, how?

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Yeah i know i have the quietest GAS car at my lhs races and they say a one with a .15fe and cvec pipe isn't loud...

[Railman]

Porlander, I don't think I've ever seen anyone run sway bars on a GT. It depends on whats' causing it to flip as to what the cure should be. If it's ruts, try adding more negative camber, to reduce the tire's edge from catching on the ruts. If it's from the chassis rolling too much, try limiting the travel of the shocks. Try running an extra 1/8" on the inside, & maybe running a little stiffer (+5wt) shock oil. You can also go to the outside shock hole on the tower. Stiffer spring will also help. These changes will help keep your truck flat. Are you running your front arms & dogbones level? Have you checked out the manual? They have a lot of tuning tips in there. I've never had much of a problem with flipping, unless it's on an off camber turn.
Jace runs the RPM shock pistons in his truck. They should also help a lot.
Joe

[FTGT Racer]

I've made sway bars, email me for insrtructions

[rolo]

thanks portlander for the info.

Another question for you guys...my pullstart seems to slip alot ever since i replaced it with a new one and also gave it a new sleeve. Any ideas on how to correct this? My friend said it could be the bearings, could that be it?

Thanks again

[ 09-14-2001: Message edited by: rolo ]

[Portlander]

FTGT racer, I'd like those instructions, however, your e-mail is blocked, I don't think mine is, try that.

rolo, what sleeve are you refering to? I can't diagnois the problem from your discription. I've got the same pull start, and almost every time I go to start the car, the starter slips, the way I fix it takes only a few minutes. first, take off your left rear wheel, and the side of the mufferler coupler that connects to the manifold. Then, remove the four screws that hold the pull starter on, take it off, being careful to do so slowly, or the spring might come out (try using some plastic model glue in the spring hole) put a teaspoon or so of fuel into the hole where the bolt came out, and rub the bolt around in it, it should then work fine.

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: Portlander ]

[RC10GTMark]

Model glue on pullstart, cant say I agree, or I read your post wrong.

The problem is easy. Your one way bearing is slipping. Take off your pull starter and take out the bearing. Spray it off with some brake cleaner, let it dry and reinstalled. Wipe excess oil/grease off of the shaft that the bearing rides on.

You should be set.

[Portlander]

yeah, I didn't explain very well, the glue goes in the small broken circle in the inside of the pull starter case where the spring attaches to it, that way, it'll stay on better, and your right, glue on a pull starter is dangerous, if you put two much on, it'll ouze out and gum up the spring.

[nolanr0413]

does anyone have a novarossi slide carb for a .12 for sale.

[RC10GTMark]

I dont think so..

[KC10Chief]

Man, your neighbors must suck. I live in an apartment and blast my GT and my T-MAxx up and down the sidewalks and street almost on a daily basis. I break in engines on my patio. Nobody has ever complained. I do this during daylight hours of course. Maybe if I did it at 3am it would be a different story. Only problem I've had so far is tons of kids wanting to drive my trucks. I had a real jerk of a neighbor in New Jersey that would have loud parties on weeknights, would yell at my wife, etc at all hours of the night. One night he was having a party out on his patio at 3am and they were up to their usual antics. Their patio was seperated from mine by just a small fence. I took my biggest baddest RC airplane outside with an OS 1.80 4 stroke on it and ran it at full throttle for about 15 minutes. I turned on the smoke pump too and smoked up the whole area. When I shut it down I noticed how quiet it was and how everybody had left. Matt

[RC10GTMark]

We have a night time run motorcross track here, supercross style. We are gonna race rc stadium trucks on it tonight, since the rain smoothed it out. Talk about a fast track. Damn it is gonna be fun. Can you say full throttle all the time.

I think my CV-R will rip bootyhole. The jumps are sweet, so big, but the dirt is so soft, I dont think Ill break much, if anything.

I might be able to get pics too.

[Jace2000]

Sounds fun Mark.
Full throttle all the time? :eek: What if the engine blows?? (j/K) :D

[gtwolfpack]

Full throtle at full time, gotta have your engine quite rich, I guess, BTW, Jace, Have you tried www.nationalrc.com? (http://www.nationalrc.com?) Pricewise and part availabilitywise, no one can beat NationalRC, i guess...They do not support on-line credit card settlement, though.. :rolleyes:

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Geeze if i did that with a plane the cops would be at my door knocking. Oh your diturbing the peace. So would you mind Shuting itdown please? No Officer i Wouldn't Ok that will be a 500 Dollar Fine. Here you go. You have 1 month to pay that, Good Day.

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Geeze if i did that with a plane the cops would be at my door knocking. Oh your diturbing the peace. So would you mind Shuting itdown please? No Officer i Wouldn't Ok that will be a 500 Dollar Fine. Here you go. You have 1 month to pay that, Good Day.

[RC10GTMark]

My nieghbors ***** , but there really isn't crap they can do. They call the cops for my RC's, I call the cops for their dirt bikes (even though I have a CBR, it isn't loud tho). The police pretty much leave it to us, since we dont get outta hand with it, we just tell each other to shut up. I have ran my gt without the pipe on it for a few minutes, they have ran the dirt bikes which blew it away sound wise.

I dont care who I piss off, they obviously dont either. I do feel for the nieghbors that dont have any loud toys.

[ScMc]

Hey Guys, Im thinking about getting the ready to run rc10gt but i was wondering if the os .12 is a direct fit on the RTR chassis becuase i will want to upgrade the engine after a while. also, on the ready to run gt, the pull start looks to be in a pretty vulnerable spot. Has anyone had theres melt because of the pipe?

[TEAMTED]

Dont worry about the pull start, it will be fine...

GUYS, I NEED HELP FAST!!! I just got zero maintenance steering, and it wont fit!!

ALSO, i just go the Team Kinwald/Trinity rear blue shock tower. Everything fits great, but where do you fit the switch for the batteries, it doesn't have that little place for the switch anymore!!!! THANKS GUYS!!!

[nitrodriver]

ScMc any .12 will fit on the rtr gt. i put a dynamite .12 spd (with a pull start) in my rtr gt and didnt have any problems with the pull start melting.

[ 09-17-2001: Message edited by: nitrodriver ]

[Portlander]

most "pros" that get the new rear shock tower use whats called a piggy tail (I think)instead of a switch, try e-mailing associated about it.

[rolo]

Thanks Portlander and Mark for the helpful info.. i'll be trying it out soon.

[Gokou]

TeamTed: the 0-maintenance steering was originally designed for the tub chassis, and as such, it needs a little mod to work on the flat chassis. Just put one of the associated 4-40 washers under each of the aluminum standoff posts in the steering kit and voila, it works perfectly. Be sure you register the little lip on the bottom of the standoffs with the washer, and everything will center itself when you tighten it down.

As far as the battery switch goes: most people don't run one, reason being that they often foul with dirt/oil and stop working. If you're at full throttle when that happens, that is a bad thing. Most people just run a long lead from the battery to the receiver and plug/unplug the battery there, or add an additional connector back by the shock tower to plug and unplug.

[GTman]

Hey FtGtracer, I'm interested in those sway-bar instructions too. If you could email them to me that would be great.
Thanks

seiffert@ex-pressnet.com

[KC10Chief]

Oh man. I'm goin through some freakin withdrawl here. This past weekend was rained out for racing at my local track. Wish I had an RC boat. I usually race one night a week if I can. I hate it when I'm looking forward to racing all week at work, thinking about racing, etc and then it rains! I's always nice every day of the week but Saturday it seems. My other hobbies, RC airplanes and mountain biking kind of suck when it's raining too. I need an indoor hobby. I hate being inside having nothing to do except stuff that NEEDS to be done. Matt

[Jace2000]

KC10, tell me about it. Same here~ :rolleyes:

GTWolfpack, have you tried National RC? Their price seems to be good.

[gtwolfpack]

I tried actually in the past..but, they were busy expanding their shop, getting their e-mail servier fixed, then...So, I could not actually buy from them..Why don't you send them an E-mail..BTW, Stormerhobby is back on line..I will try stormer some day.. :D

[tadium54]

I just got a FT GT

[FTGT Racer]

My email is being stupid and has decided I can't email anymore, so I will just post it here, but i need to go for my LHS closes, be back soon

[loki]

Hey all,

Well, since I got tired of painting up new bodies for the GT all the time, I decided on a more permanent solution: A homemade steel rollcage! Should keep the nice new Novarossi Mega C12 unscratched for a while...

Here's a pic:

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/1-Loki/gt_rollbar2.jpg

Loki

[Acey The Race Man]

Cool loki can u e-mail me the directions

[Acey The Race Man]

Cool loki can u e-mail me the directionsnull

[Jace2000]

LOKI! That rips dude! :eek:

[RC10GTMark]

Is that hollow tubing or solid? If hollow, who'd u bend it?

[Portlander]

just a helpful tip, coil that excess antennae around the bottom of the straw, nice car, but loose that wire and your range is about 12 feet.

[RC10GTMark]

I gotta run to work for a couple hours, but I started making my own roll cage. I have a few helpful hints to provide, once I get back.

[Acey The Race Man]

Any body know of a compony that makes Blue Anodized suspension arms.

[GTman]

hobby etc/GPM racing makes blue arms.
go to www.gpmracing.com (http://www.gpmracing.com)

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Yes GPM makes blue anodized arms but i wouldn't trust the quality of them.

Todd

[poopie]

hey guys, i'm soon going to re-join the rc10gt club. YAY!!! i don't know why i traded my first gt in the first place :confused:

[Portlander]

hey, ftgt racer, how long you been at the HS, i got nothing to do.

[Acey The Race Man]

Why dont u like GPM I heard that they'er pretty good? Did u have a bad experience or something?

[RC10GTMark]

GPM uses a lower grade aluminum I think. Alot of their stuff bends pretty easy.

As far as my roll cage, I got one half of it done. I couldn't bend the material im using without using a torch, which I dont have. Instead I made relief cuts, then bend the material, then I filled the cuts with solder. It is actually very strong. I used 7/32 square brass stock, available from MJ Designs.

Next on my agenda, lol. I was outta clutch e-clips and didn't have money to even drive to the hobby shop, no less buy parts. Todd (sponsered by tyco) was cool enough to send me a couple by mail, and I figured he deserves recognition here, were everyone will see it. If you need any parts I got lemme know todd.

If anyone uses this brass tubing I used, make sure you sand it pretty rough, or paint has a problem sticking to it. Im still experiementing with a test tube, I made some cuts and bends, then I soldered them, then I used some bondo to keeps is square shape, sanded, primed and painted it. Ill take pics as soon as I get it sanded.

[Acey The Race Man]

Dose anyone no where i can buy some Blue anodized shock caps besides the ones made by GPM?

[atm92484_3]

Associated makes blue shock caps. They are part number 1598 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXWL86&P=7).

[Sponsored By Tyco]

I got an idea you know that Brass Piping that they use for Air conditioning that is bendable could you use that and bend it and just soilder some cross braces on??? that would be a cool idea and just have it connect to the body mounts.

ATM did you have to get a new name or is that someone diffrent??

[ 09-20-2001: Message edited by: Sponsored By Tyco ]

[atm92484_3]

Ya I had to get a new name. I tried to switch my name to a new email addy I thought I made through Verizon. However I screwed up and didn't check to see if it worked before hand. Well it didn't and my new PW for my old name is floating around cyber space someplace. I left a message in the "Off Topic" board (probably the wrong place but an Admin. should see it) about getting my old name back just since I've had that name for almost a year.

[Acey The Race Man]

I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get a few parts for my FTGT. Im making an all blue anodized trunk and I just orered a lot of parts from Tower Hobbies but I couldnt find a few of the pieces I was looking for. Im trying to stay away from GPM because Sponserd by Tyco says they're not that good, but it seems like that last few pieces I need are made by them. Here is a list of what i need:

Blue throtle servo mounts
Blue rear body mont supports
Front body mount brace
Blue front C-hubs
Blue front hinge-pin brace
Blue rear hub carier
Blue engine mount (pull-start)
Blue lower arm mounts

so if anybody knows where I can get them I would be very happy.

[Portlander]

I would suggest getting all those parts at GPM, all though they might use a lower grade aluminum, I don't believe things such as aluminum servo mounts and rear arm mounts would break, at least not as easily as the plastic ones. if you got money to waste, go for it.

[ilovemygt]

i just got the new rcca and HG has an ad for the parts they make for the gt and now there offering it in a conversion kit i wonder how much its gonna be not like i would buy it though ill stick to grafite and plastic :)

[GTman]

I agree with portlander, you are going to need to buy those things from GPM. I Think you will have trouble finding another company that makes that stuff. Also, the only parts that I would worry about because of the possibly lower-grade aluminum are the arms, towers, and the like.

[ritchies rc10gt]

well i finally got a new engine for my GT now that racing season is almost over.i got the ofna factory force .15S with boost bottle again now im back to doing wheelies and donuts all the time!!!!! :D ilove this engine.the last one i had i blew up cuz i got mad at it cuz it wouldnt stay running then i found out i needed a new fuel tank.but oh well.it hauls but im still breaking it in

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Yeah every you mentioned above would be ok for GPM parts but not their Shock Towers or their ARMS anyway there are no blue arms except the GPM's but those are lower grade so I would say go with the HG's those are your best choose for Alum. Arms but if you want Nylon Arms get the RPM arms they are the best for all around.

[TRXboy]

Just a quick note, my GPM Bulk head, A-Arm mount cracked, and my rear shock tower bent. Personaly i say go with RPM A Arm mount's, only maged to break them once.

[Acey The Race Man]

Thanks for the help guys :)

[kkd]

Well, I've got dibs on a BRAND NEW in the bag/box OS .12 CVR(X) for a pretty good price....

Are any of you running this engine and if so, is it alot better than say an OS CV?????

(Just got my radar gun on Thursday and am going crazy to clock my cars, but its been raining for days.... aaaahhhhhhhh.... LOL)....

Your thoughts everyone.....

Thanks..

sees ya..

[atm92484_3]

Yes the 12 CV-RX is an awesome engine. I have a 12 CV-R in my GT and it flies. I love it: its easy to tune and much faster than the 12 CV I was using prior to getting the CV-R last Christmas.

[Eric Gharakhanian]

hay guys my clutch bearings went bad yesterday it is a new truck and I'm pretty suprised that I already lost my clutch bearings. Other than the bearing is there anything else that you think i should get other than the bearings. i was thinking of geting another clutch bell because i think the bad bearings exposed it to alot of viberaton. Also what pinon/spur shoyld i run on for on road with my cvr. I want a beter top end but i don't want to totaly kill my acceleration. thanks in advance. :D

[ 09-22-2001: Message edited by: hitstuff ]

[kkd]

Right now the GT is 'squealing' at high speeds???

ANy ideas would be a great help....

I think it might be the slipper clutch??

thanks..

[Portlander]

KKD, most likly it is the slipper clutch, if it's set too lighty and slips too much, it'll develope a glossy finish to it, try sanding it down very lightly, or get a new pad. the correct way to set the slipper is to set it loose, hold the car, and turn the spur gear. tighten the slipper until the diff slips before the slipper does, then loosen the slipper about 1/4 to 1/2 turns so it slips before the diff, that should be about right.

[Jwelch]

Alright, I give up. My AE.15 just wont run without overheating. I've tried all different plugs, needle settings, and a bunch of fuels, but nothing works. Im hesitant to drop 40 bucks on the head only to find out that it does nothing. Any suggesions for a good, solid engine other than a CV? The Picco's and the CV-r look appealing to me.

[TRXboy]

Welch, you ever try riching it up a 1/4 turn?

[Jwelch]

Well DURRRR, yea, the carb was richer than factory settins for God's sake! Do I look that much like an idiot?

[Sponsored By Tyco]

I have a .12 CV-RX and it is a very fast motor but when you go to break it in it will take about 30 pulls for it to start. but once it is broken in It will start with in 5. Just remember to use After Run oil in it so it doesn't rust. :)

[RC10GTMark]

The AE .15 always runs hot, it is just a hot motor. If nothing is breaking, leave it be.

[TEAMTED]

Hey guys, i just stripped my servo on my gt because i installed the mip zero maintenance steering, and forgot to put on a servo saver. It says to use a Kimbrough Servo saver, but there are lots of different Kimbrough ones and i need to know which one is best for my GT. THANKS!

PS Now i need a new servo too, i was using the standard hitec 3003 servo, but i was wondering what servo might be a little better, without getting too pricy. THANKS

[Jwelch]

the Hitec 605-MG is 40 bucks on tower. got metal gears too. It's my personal servo, and it sure does beat a standard one.

[atm92484_3]

One of my favorite servos has to be the Hitec HS-615MG. It has metal gears, something like 110 oz. @ 4.8v and 140 oz. @ 6v, not to mention its about $40 also on Tower.

[ 09-24-2001: Message edited by: atm92484_3 ]

[TEAMTED]

Which servo saver do i get for it though??

[atm92484_3]

Personally I like the stock servo saver and steering and I'd just stick to it.

jmo

[ 09-23-2001: Message edited by: atm92484_3 ]

[Railman]

Teamted, You have two choices. The most popular one is the #121 (large size) heavy duty model. The only problem is you will need to shim the servo off the deck with some washers for the servo saver to to clear the chassis. The other option is to use the later & smaller version # 124. It is rated for gas & electric trucks, but does not seem to be as stiff as the # 121. The good news is that it doesn't need to have the servo shimmed. Given that your having problems with stripping servos, you might want to try the # 124, but you may need to drill a new hole to get the horn throw you need for full steering. Hope this helps. Joe

[gtwolfpack]

Railman, I remember tht you mentioned posting a tip to RCCA regarding sealing the front engine bearing with RTV silicone or something (if my memory serves me right..). Could you please go in a little more detail about it? I am about to take my engine off FT GT and I wanna take this time to reseal my engine and try your tip. Thanx in advance! :D

[Sponsored By Tyco]

I have the GS racing servo horn but i did have to cut a horn of. But it is strong.

[KC10Chief]

Earlier this month I took a week long road trip into Colorado and I took my GT with me. My wife and I drove up Pikes Peak and the weather was nice so I got my GT out and blasted it around at 14,110 feet. Had to lean it out a bit to get it to run at that altitude. Anyways, my wife took a whole roll of film of the GT sitting on the sign that said we were at 14,110 feet. People were looking at me like I was crazy. Anyways, the developers were apparently training a new guy or something and he ruined the whole roll of film! :mad: I was pretty ticked about it, but at least he gave me my other pictures for free. 8 rolls worth. Not a bad deal, but now I have no Pikes Peak pictures. I was going to post them on this board too. I thought about driving my GT across the Royal Gorge and getting some pictures, but there were too many people there. Plus, I was afraid that if I were to have a radio problem and the truck ran away, it would have been a world record 1,100 foot jump or plummet to the Arkansas river below. The park rangers probably wouldn't have liked that either. Oh well. I'll be back next year. I was up on the World Trade Center observation deck back in July and thought it would be cool to get some pics of my GT up there too, but I guess that's not going to happen either! Matt

[Sponsored By Tyco]

That really sucks KC10.

[ritchies rc10gt]

just checking to see whats new here since the board has been down for a day.i see we can type in different colors and stuff now.thats cool

[Spinner]

indeed

[RC10GTMark]

Hey everyone, this is me Mark, for what ever reason my name is changed. This was my login name on the old forum, but not my display name, oh well.

I went to radio shack today (i work there now) and bought 2 LED lights, blue ones. The are bright as hell and I mounted them on the front of my truck, blue on one side and red on the other, so I can tell direction at night. It is pretty cool. I run it on a 9v battery.

LED part number 276-311

[TEAMTED]

Is anyone interested in a totally hopped up gt w/engine and radio??? NEED TO SELL, great shape:p

[Portlander]

lets see some pics of it teamted

[Mrzoidburg]

Hi Guys,
Just built my FTGT and have a couple of questions.

1. Fuel line, do I keep it like in the book (direct from the tank to the card, short) or can i add a couple of loops incase I flip?

2. for racing, is the brake set up usually like in the book, ie for the brake to engage slightly when you are off the throttle?

3. is there a nut/bolt/screw kit you might recomend to keep as spares? ie one with the most common sizes used by ae?

Observations:

Coming from a 4wd background i thought this thing would be hard to drive, wrong, it's fantastic! I love it!!

I have a RB C12 with slide carb i just converted to non pull start and i can't believe how much faster this is. I had it in my HPI nitro mt and that thing was a slug compared to this!!

I'll post a pic of the body, it came out nice.

Racing sunday, it's gonna be sweet!

:)

MrZ

[RC10GTMark]

Fuel Line: Loops are fine.
Brake Linkage: Mine pulls foward at idle, brake is disengaged.
Screw Kit: Just find any screw kit that is stainless steal, then put the SS screws in the kit, and keep the aluminums for spare, trust me. Those aluminum screws are gonna give you a hard time, especially after they get scratched up some.
Make sure everything is locktighted, that will save u a hassel.

Hope I answered your questions.

[Mrzoidburg]

Thanks Mark, you did.

MrZ

[atm92484_3]

Mr. Z., for the GT I usually like to have a pack or two of the following screws on hand:

4-40 x 3/8" FH 6292 and SH 6924
4-40 x 1/4" FH 6291 and SH 6285
4-40 x 1" SH 6928 (for manifold)
4-40 x 3/16" BH 6920
6-32 x 3/8" BH 7773
8-32 x 1/4" 6931

These are all steel screws except for the 8/32 which is aluminum but thats all its offered in.

[RC10GTMark]

I would have posted part numbers and sizes, if I knew them. I still to this day goto the hobby shop and say something like, "I need that screw that goes there, or I need a screw about yay long, about so thick, fine threads, uh.."

[RC10GTMark]

I just noticed im a "senior member". What did I earn? Do I get a senior citizens discount? How about a special parking spot?

::bordem has set in::

[Shawn_S]

This Is Sponsored By Tyco,

Well Guys Looks like its time for my truck to find its way to a new owner. I love my truck and stuff its just that I really have no time to run it and it sits on my dresser for weeks at hand so Its going to a good home. I will still hang around.

[Railman]

MrZ, Most GT's I see run drag brake, but not all. I like to set mine up with a little, because it makes the truck transfer weight to the front as you enter the turn, which helps turn in steering a lot.How much you set up with depends on how much traction is available. If you have too much drag brake it will spin out entering the turn. The other thing is to make shure that the brake releases fully before the clutch engages. If the brake is not released at clutch engagement, the truck will spin out very easily, as you exit the turn. This adjustment is a bit of a balancing act, but if done right, the truck will act much more like an electric truck in the turns...in other words, be much easier to drive. I try to keep the throttle spring set with about 1/16" ( 1 1/2mm?) free play space, at drag brake throttle position. That should be enough to get a smooth brake release before the power hits. This adjustment is the hardest thing to get just right, but will help dramatically for better lap times. Let us know how it goes.good luck racing! ;)
Joe

[Portlander]

well, it sure has been great having you around Tyco, are you sure you want to go through with this? it's like having your driving liscense taken away when you get old and near-sighted. Here's an idea, sell your truck part by part, that way everyone will have a memorial for ya:D

[gtwolfpack]

Railman, I remember tht you mentioned posting a tip to RCCA regarding sealing the front engine bearing with RTV silicone or something (if my memory serves me right..). Could you please go in a little more detail about it? I am about to take my engine off FT GT and I wanna take this time to reseal my engine and try your tip. Thanx in advance! (I posted the question above..but,,,I think you did not notice it cuz the thread has gone too long vertically..)

[Railman]

GTwolfpack, I'm sorry about not answering your earlier post. What I've been doing is apply a very small bead ( 1/2mm or so) of rtv silicone to the bearing's inner race/crank/washer joint. Maybe some think this has no value, but I believe every little bit helps., & that air leaks problems are accumulative. Just clean the crank & washer with alchohol, or some other cleaner to remove the oil, & apply the RTV with a toothpick or a small strip of plastic. Keep in mind it only takes a very small amount of RTV to do the job. When I tear down my engines for rebuilds after doing this sealing detail, there is always a little o-ring like seal left in tact at the spot, so it seems to me it has to help. Another thing that leads me to believe this detail has a value, is that the newer CVR engines are touting how they have a tighter bearing fit to the crankshaft. They wouldn't have bothered with that change unless it was an issue. Anyway, as long as you don't use too much it can't do any harm. Hope this helps.
Joe

[KC10Chief]

AAAHHHHHH!!! I have racing withdrawl again. At my local track, they race on Friday and Saturday nights. It's Friday night, but my wife wanted to go out with her mother one night this weekend so I figured it's only fair that I stay home with our son who isn't quite 4 years old yet. They have a better turnout on Saturday nights anyways. My truck needs a little tuning so I'd better go do that. I just HATE knowing that everybody else is out racing and I'm not! AAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! It's like having a broken leg at a ski resort or something. I would hate to leave my son alone while I went and raced. Maybe in a few years he'll be able to drive his own truck. That'll be a blast. I want to get an RV trailer that I can tow behind my truck and my son and I can travel around to all the races and different tracks. I'm just glad that he shows a lot of interest in cars and in my RC cars. Hopefully he'll stay interested so we will have something to do together! Can't wait. Matt

[Portlander]

dude, 'babysitter' new technology, just came out last century or so.

[Jace2000]

JESUS!!
I was locked out from this forum ever since they switched to this new software. I'm finally able to post something now. I guess it was something related to that registration problem.

Tyco...
I hope you'll drop by often. It's really too bad that you're selling the GT....

[phdeez]

Needin some help: I just bought a used rc10gt ft off of someone on the board. But I'm a little confused. I've noticed that the flywheel is sticking out of the bottom of the chassis [prob 2mm]. Now I understand that AE makes diff engine mounts for the pull-start and the non-pull start versions; but is this normal? Thanks in advance for the info!

Ph

[Portlander]

no, it's not normal, sounds like you have a pull start flywheel (larger diameter) with a non-pullstart engine mount (lower mount)
it's a possibility, can't tell without seeing it.

[Mrzoidburg]

Thanks for all the great information guys.

Having some problems at the moment for reasons unbeknownst to me.

Priming for engine starting, how much and by how? I seem to flood all the time. It's a real hassle. Yesterday it ran great for 2 tanks, now it won't start and i'm out of ideas. I know it's got a good plug, glows strong, it must have fuel cos the plugs are always wet.
Any ideas?

What's your starting procedure?
Thanks

[ritchies rc10gt]

as far as priming i hold my finger over the exhaust tip and pull the cord till the fuel reaches the carb and give 2 more pulls.as far as starting i prime it open throttle 1/4 throttle and start pulling till it starts most times it starts on the first or second pull.


now i have a problem of my own.i have a new ofna factory force .15 s pro.it wont stopp over heating.if i richen the low end it wont idle,if i lean it enough for it to idle it still runs hot.if i richen the high end needle it will run but just bog.i have tried everything.i thought my header was leaking and not putting enough pressure in the tank so i put a new gasket in it and same damn thingthe engine is brokin in im just trying to tune it to run great.i havent let the temp go over 270*F the instructions say dont go over 300*F and it will run all the way up to 310*F so i stop it when it gets around 270.it runs great while it is cold but when it warms up it will go like hell and all of a sudden bog down to nothing unless i keep blipping the throttle.i am running O'Donnel 20% and a number 8 glow plug.thanx for any help:confused:

[atm92484_3]

Mr. Z, I'm not famaliar with the engine you have but with my CV-R in my GT I never prime it other than while its on the starter. I just put the GT on the starter box and let'er rip. Then for maybe a second or so I lightly cover the exhaust. That usually does it and the engine starts. If you do try this becareful because if you flood it, the starter's force might be enough to break a connecting rod.

Ritchie, the first thing I'd look for would be airleaks. It probably wouldn't hurt to try sealing some parts on the engine either with something like RTV. It probably wouldn't hurt either switching to an A3 plug either since its a hotter plug. This means that the engine can be set richer and still burn the fuel off to run well.

<marquee>jmo</marquee>

[Jwelch]

Anyone got the new reverse GT tank yet? I hate tuning the low end with the stock tank...its so hard!!! Im getting it for my B-day it its worthwhile.

[ritchies rc10gt]

ATM:i tried the sealing airleaks and it still didnt help.maybe ill try a hotter plug and see what happens

[TycoTeamDriver1]

Yeah i'll still hang around. But its not all bad because i am selling it for $850 dollars+shipping. Railman About you over heating problem, are you sure thats just not the normal running temp or is the temp like 300??? Check all fuel lines and seals.

[Jwelch]

The cold plug is your problem. The colder temp means that you need to run your engine leaner to get the temperature up, while also causing the engine to overheat from over leaning.

[ritchies rc10gt]

the instructions for the engine said to use a #8 plug but ill try a hotter one

[RC10GTMark]

haven't run my gt in sooo long.. not even fun anymore, always messes up. I cant seem to fix my clutch problem. I always lose clutch clips, clutch bearings, shoes and all that.

[TRXboy]

Im still Looking for a wheel, i keep melting the middle out of mine, any one of a salution to this?

[Portlander]

trxboy, try HG, I think they might make aluminum wheels, but first try solving your problem, in the new november issue of Nitro Car Action another guy had the same problem, the solution was to check your drive pins that go into the little slots in the wheel hub, if they are broken in the middle, or too short, they'll strip out the hub.

[GTman]

Interesting you should bring up the aluminum topic. I noticed the other day in RCCA that HG is coming out with more GT stuff including wheels. I imagine they would make shock action sluggish because of the extra weight but they sure would look cool.
Anyway this got me thinking about making a set for my GT out of aluminum. I've drawn up the stock front and rear wheels on a CAD/CAM program and the next step is to make a nice deisgn for the inside spokes. Hopefully I'll have time at work to run the setup through my CNC this month.

[nolanr0413]

I have one of the reverse gas tanks . i got it the first week they came out. It is great because i can reach the low end needle easier and fill the tank through the front window ,it makes it a lot easier.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Hey everybody! The old CV is gone, so I think I'll get a CV-R. I should have the money in about two weeks (I'm currently broke). Also, I'm going to buy a new chassis. The silver one is too boring. Other than that, I'm doing well. I got out of RC for a while, but I have the bug again, so you'll probably see me around a lot again.

Mark O.

[Jwelch]

Trxboy, try the 1/4 axle, it's MUCH beefier. I have yet to melt one rim.



Oh, and Mark (or anyone else) , what kind of speed, accel, and power did you get with the regular CV?

[atm92484_3]

Jwelch, you want to get away from the 1/4" axles, especially with bearings. See with the bearings for the 1/4", the balls are smaller. Thus they can't take the load the 3/16" bearings can. This isn't as big of a deal with electric trucks but with a gas truck and TRX's skill :D they don't stand a chance.

I also had a 12 CV before my 12 CV-R. They don't compare but the 12 CV is a sweet engine. It wasn't super powerful but it could still get the GT going.

TRX, have you tried replacing the lock nuts? The nylon part might be worn or something and they won't grip. Then when they loosen it causes the rim to strip.

What percentage of nitro are you guys using? I'm using BT 10% right now but I'm considering going up to 20%. Any opinions?

<MARQUEE>jmo</MARQUEE>

[OmegaTrac]

Hey all,
I have an RC10GT RTR. I just got back from my first day on the track. It runs great on the track! But the rear stock tires that are included really suck in loose dirt. So I bought a pair of Step Pins and Rims for $21.50. But I cant get the rims installed! The pin in the hub seems to wide and the rim wont fit on easily. How do I solve this?

Also, the shocks in the rear droop severly causing the rear end to bottom out! How do I solve this? I raised the ride height and it still bottoms out. How do I solve this?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

John, the CV kicks aspen. It is super reliable and never gives you any fuss. It also produces nice power. I say it's an above average engine, and if your lhs doesn't stock parts for it, then they shouldn't be called a hobby shop.

Omega, the axles on the rtr don't accept most rims. The only two rims that I can think of for you truck are Proline Velocities and the stock rims. I suggest switching to CVD's as soon as possible for more rims choices and better performance. For your shocks ytou should switch the oil, springs, and pistons to whatever the hot setup at the track is. Just ask one of the gurus what they are running.

Mark O.

[TycoTeamDriver1]

Mark, you already lost the ones i sent you?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Todd, you talking to me?

[TycoTeamDriver1]

Opps sorry not you Mark O. I was talking to Mark T.

Sorry.

[TycoTeamDriver1]

Well, No ones interested in my gt. so I'm going to keep it. I think everyone thought my price was too high. $850.00 that sound reasonable right? I finally got to drive my gt today after 2 months and 3 weeks!!

[ritchies rc10gt]

i also have a RTR GT.the proline wheels that look like the stock wheels fit on mine.And any rims that will fit the HPI nitro rush will fit the GT but you need a diferent hex adapter for the rear wheels.i know this because i own both trucks and change the wheels all the time.but the GT rear wheels will not fit the RUSH.


Damn i hate my temper!!! i got mad at my GT cuz i cant keep it running cool or keep it running the other day and threw a screwdriver at it and threw it across the yard.I broke the fuel tank into a million pieces.But thats all that broke thank god.All ill have to spend to fix it is 14 bux for a new tank.where do i get the reverse tank now that its out?Would Big Boys Toys have it yet?

[ritchies rc10gt]

ATM:i was running 20% BT but i switched to 20% O'Donnel for my new engine.i had this same engine a few months ago and it liked O'donnel better than BT.i like BT but whatever the engine runs better with is what i use

[TycoTeamDriver1]

My CV-RX is a gas pig. it will eat up a tank of 20% odonnel in 5 mins idling!!! It is set lean to. But i say go with odonnel 20%.

[RC10GTMark]

No todd I got the one more of the ones u sent me, but on of yours flew off and I lost my clutch shoes.

[atm92484_3]

I finally got pics of my radio box.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/028/Xw/Dn/rK/sP54980.jpg
http://wsphotofews.excite.com/032/Mp/Wb/5Q/rD62155.jpg

Its a Traxxas radio box for the T-Maxx. All I did was I took the stock radio plate, cut the antenna mount off. Then with servo tape, I attached it to the T-Maxx radio box (making sure it didn't hit the fuel tank or anything), and drilled some holes for screws. Then i screwed the stock plate and the T-Maxx box together and mounted them. It seems to work pretty well. What do you guys think?

[KC10Chief]

Just thought I would let people know that Action RC in Oklahoma City, OK is having the Nitro Showdown on October 13th and 14th which is Saturday and Sunday. They race 1/10th scale nitro trucks, and 1/8th scale buggies. They by far have the nicest and biggest track in Oklahoma. Jerry and Ginna Hawthorne own the place. They are the nicest people you will ever meet and are dedicated to their track and to their customers and racers. The entry fee is 25 dollars and 10 dollars for each additional class. They give away trophies and plaques to the winners of each main including the B and C mains. The track opens on Saturday morning at 8 and racing starts at 10 I believe. On Saturday, they are having three 10 minute heats for each class. They will be racing the mains on Sunday. The A mains will be 30 minutes long and the other mains will be 15 minutes. If you wanted to come from out of the area and camp out in a tent or an RV, they have plenty of room and they let people do that. They will also be having a drawing for a 1/8 Meugen MBX 4XR Works. People come from all over the midwest to this race and if you come, you won't be sorry. Jerry and Ginna really try to make you feel welcome and make sure you have a good time. They cook dinner for everybody and their prices are better than mail order. They aren't in this business for the money, but just because they love racing. They are open 7 days a week after 5:30 on the weekdays until the sun goes down. Practice is always free even if you never race. They normally race on Friday and Saturday nights at 7pm. So, if you can't make it to the Nitro Showdown, you definately need to make it out to Action RC sometime to race. The crowd that races here is the best I've ever raced with. You won't be sorry you came! So bring out those GT's! I'll be racing mine! IF you're in or around Oklahoma, it's well worth the drive! Matt

[OmegaTrac]

Hey all,
I have the GT RTR. I was wondering if I should take the restrictor out of the engine. Should I remove it? If I do will there be any increase in power? And will I have to retune to engine?

[atm92484_3]

It won't increase power but it will allow the engine to reach full power faster. If you do remove it, you'll have to richen the mixture. Personally, if you don't seem to have a lack of power, I'd just leave it on the carb.

[Portlander]

Omegatrac-from what I've heard the restrictor is the small plactic cone you put in the top of your carb, am I right? well if it is, they say that if you take it off, it'll ware down your engine faster, but I lost mine and it seems to work fine, maybe even a little faster. the restrictor was just a hasle, if I pushed it in too far, it would cut off the air supply, not good.

ATM-nice truck, I might try that, I also want to get the traxxas battery box, it's on both the pede and rustler I think, it's sealed with two body clips, I keep getting dirt in with the batteries, I'd also like to put the plug in the box so it's not exposed. but right now I have a homemade aluminum battery tray/rear bumper, looks sweet. need to get pictures for y'all (don't worry, I'm not from texas)

[OmegaTrac]

I just started racing and want to get the most power from the motor, but still have good engine life. So would removing the restrictor do any good at all?



Also, Is a Mugen .12SPD with a slide carb a good engine for the GT?

[Portlander]

BTW ATM, I see the wires going down towards your left outdrive, then coming out between the carb and sink, where'd you put your switch?

Omegatrac, to go on the safe side, keep it in, unless your drag racing with it.

[atm92484_3]

Look just to the left of the airfilter and you'll see the switch. Its kind of hard to see. I just really had to stretch the wires so they would reach the receiver box.

Omega, replace the engine once your stock engine dies. If you can control the power right now, then try removing it but remember to richen the mixture or you'll mess up the engine. If you can handle it, then you can just put it back in.

[OmegaTrac]

Yeah about the restrictor thing I just wanted to know if It would improve acceleration to keep up with some of the .12 trucks.



Also, will the the McCoy MC59 Glow Plug fit into the AE .15 even if its a little longer then the stock plug?

[Jwelch]

good point atm, i never thought of it that way.... Omega, removing the the restrictor will get it up to power faster, yes, but the AE .15 is s great engine even with the restrictor. It's way more powerful than an SPD .12 (made by Dynamite, not Mugen BTW. The Mugen engine is the MT .12, and it's a beast.) or a CV of any sort. Railman, didn't AE tell you that the rated BHP is like .88 or something? BTW, does anyone know the bearing size for the 3/16in axles? Im too lazy to find the instruction booklet.



Edit: Omega, the MC59 is perfect.

[atm92484_3]

Jwelch, that bearing size is 3/16"x3/8".

[Jwelch]

thanks again, atm. by the way, when u guys get the November RCCA, take a look the Last Lap section, fourth response down :D

[OmegaTrac]

What is the point of AE putting a restrictor in their engine?


Also, what is the web adress for the Mugen MT .12 or where I can look at the Mugen MT .12?

[Simbad]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I finally got pics of my radio box.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/028/Xw/Dn/rK/sP54980.jpg
http://wsphotofews.excite.com/032/Mp/Wb/5Q/rD62155.jpg

Its a Traxxas radio box for the T-Maxx. All I did was I took the stock radio plate, cut the antenna mount off. Then with servo tape, I attached it to the T-Maxx radio box (making sure it didn't hit the fuel tank or anything), and drilled some holes for screws. Then i screwed the stock plate and the T-Maxx box together and mounted them. It seems to work pretty well. What do you guys think?
Thanks have been asking all over what I could do to protect the radio. I will try it on mine now:) .
Pat.

[bjr20]

Just as long you finally put the hammer down!!!!!!!!

[Mrzoidburg]

Hi Guys,
Finally got my FTGT sorted out, built it on Thursday, raced yesterday. Only your top 3 results for the day count, i got 3 x 3rd places. Not bad for my first race in a new truck, coming from 4wd that is.

I was tending to spin out on corners, mainly cos' i cut my clutch down too far (but that's another story). Apart from that, i had a great day, car ran good, fast and reliable. First time i've come home from the track without breaking anything. Never did that with my NMT!

I can't believe how much faster mine was on the track, and that was against 2 other GT's.

Can anybody give me some info on the diff? ie, if i tighten it or loosen it from stock, what effect will it have?

I'll have some pics for you soon, it's a sweet looking truck (body).
:)
MrZ

[atm92484_3]

BTW that radio box is part number 4924.

Omega, they put that restrictor in there so newbies aren't overpowered by the engine. From my experience, that engine rivals many of the current .12 racing engines.

Mr Z, thats good to heard. If I were you I would leave the diff right around where they said to have it. Just from my experience, I've found if you loosen it too much you melt the gear and if its too tight the balls get torn up.

I made this tool (actually I got the idea from an RCCA a few years ago) to test the diff's tightness. Its just a piece of pushrod from an RC plane (so its very stiff) bent so it can grip and lock both of the outdrives on the diff. Then I can hold the spur gear and move the diff with this thing to see how tight it is.

[Mrzoidburg]

Thanks for the tip.

One query though, the stock ball cups that come with the FTGT, are they alright or should I upgrade to captured ends or RPM ball cups?
I popped one at the back in a race (cos i was cartwheeling) and had lots of probs with this on the NMT so i went to captured all round. Is this necesary or generally is the stock set-up ok?
Thanks
:)
MrZ