Associated RC10GT Forum v2.0

[TRXboy]

hehe- i havent gotten a chance to use a AE pipe on the CV-R but from what i have seen i have overall sick top and bottem end, much better then the Picco(Well not really, picco was smother, this is just exsplosive!)ill tell you what, ill tyr out my AE pipe tommrow and see how it goes...I dont think the reciver box from a T would fit, but it might, i think its to wide tho(The 3 Ch reciver it comes with is BIG!)

[BlackWolf]

Whats the tallest gear I can put on my non pullstart GT?

Would I be able to get away with a 24T Clutch, and a 44 tooth spur??

[ 06-01-2001: Message edited by: BlackWolf ]

[morfeeis]

i say again


i was just think about my shocks to and i miss the shocks i had on my NXT G-PLUS

for a while before i sold it i let my brother's put them on his gt and they worked great... i just dont like the gt shocks (that is why i bought a NXT in the first place) i have been thinking about doing this to my gt cause i love the way those shocks did on my brothers gt... i wanted to know have any of you tried any other shocks besides piggy backs and the norm gt shocks

:D :D :D

[TRXboy]

Nope, had no reson to, only thing i dont like about AE shocks is the plastic cap and No blatter design which makes it a pain to get all the air out of.

[Snoozy]

Ima go try and break my truck doing something cool tomorrow, I'll report back on what I get/do/break :)

[Gokou]

Turboduck: I use a toothbrush, a soft paintbrush, rags, and simple green to clean my GT. I'll also use an air compressor turned down (say 45-50psi) to get loose dust/dirt off before going at it with the brushes.

And TRXboy: I still can't imagine what you put your GT through if you break outdrives. That is VERY impressive :eek:

[stormperson]

i normally just use simple green to get some of the crap out. however as of late, i found this great stuff from dynamite:

nitro blast or nitro force. wait, trinities relabing *i think* however i guess its the same stuff. anyway its around twice the pressure or normal motor spray, and it really effective, get all the great out and really blasts everything. highly suggested.

as for the shocks, i really like my losi shocks too. however i got my gt in the rtr form about a year ago, and i still have the same shock oil in their, i am very amazed. keep in mind i have only run 2 gallons through due to other reasons though.

[BlackWolf]

You know, that ramp that you got. It's for BMX not RC. You WILL break somthing on your car! I promise you will within the week...

[BlackWolf]

Turboduck01:

Those nitro cleaner sprays are NOT all the same. I love Trinity Nitro Blast. You will too!! :)

I bought a bottle of the Traxxas nitro wash in the cool spray bottle. I really have to say the stuff is total garbage for getting oil off your car. It's great if you want to wash the car off to remove clods of dirt, and dust, but for nitro goo like oil, and such, it just dosn't work. At least I got a nice spray bottle for the 7+ dollars I spent on 32oz of methanol.

Do yourself a favor, and PLEASE TRY Trinity's Nitro Blast! You will be very happy with your purchase.

To tell you all the truth, I'm convinced that Trinity Nitro Blast wash spray is "NON-Chlorinated Brake cleaner". I'm going to find some non-trichlor brake cleaner that is like Trinity Nitro Blast. There are a couple different mixtures when it comes to non-chlor brake cleaner. Some of it has Acetone. The formula with Acetone is the one you DON'T want! It'll eat plastic and rubber.

The good stuff is made up of Methanol, Ethanol, Hexane, and a couple other things. The best way to find out whats in it is to find an MSDS for that exact product.

Remember: Stay away from regular brake cleaner. You MUST use NON-Chlorinated cleaner, and make sure it's made up of ETOH, and Methanol mostly and has NO acetone.

blakwoof

[BlackWolf]

TRXBoy/Gokou:

Regarding the 'air in the shocks'.

Do you think filling the shock and capping it off while you hold it completely submerged in the oil you're using will take care of the bubbles?

I'm going to try it but I'm going to put a small peice of closed cell foam like neoprene in the cap to take up some of the compression. I'll do this the NEXT time I rebuild them. Let me know what you ppl think.

bw

[n2o]

What do you guys think about running a K&N air filter on a Novarossi MT12? Right now I am running a Dynamite .21 size filter and it works alright.

-n2o

[Bodido GT]

It has always been my understanding that when you build AE shocks you're supposed to get the RIGHT amount of air in them, not no air at all. If there was something in the that allowed volume compensation, that would be different. Something like the foam used in the "vcs" shocks or the "Progressive" shock caps. Without the foam you need the air because air can be compressed, oil can't.

I'm not 100% sure of this, however.... just darn close.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

You ARE supposed to have some air in your shocks. They serve as the bladder. Anyone tried using GS shock caps? They have bladders in them.

For cleaning my truck I use simple green most of the time. A crudy ol' 2 and 1/2 inch paintbrush works well, and a since my mommy is a dental hygenist, I get the latest and greatest toothbrushes to get in the small parts. :D I heard that like 2 parts denatured alcohol and one part vinager work really well at cutting through nitro gunk , so I'll try it, and tell yall my results.

[ 06-01-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[Gokou]

The stock AE shocks need air in them-- that is what compresses when oil is displaced by the compressing shock shaft. Stock, the shocks work when the oil is areated. That's why most people with AE cars "pump up" their shocks before going out on the track-- it mixes the air with the oil so the shock performs more consistently, instead of waiting for the first lap or two to mix the air with the oil for you. There are a couple of ways to get an air-free AE shock: that's with expansion reservoirs (such as the New Era, Progressive Suspension, or GPM ones) or get the GPM caps, which have bladders. With the amount of oil the shocks displace, especially the back shocks, I can't see the bladders being able to compensate for it; maybe they can, but I'm not sure. I do know however that the expansion reservoirs do the job VERY well; I really like mine. :) I don't think you'll just be able to put foam in the shock caps, because there isn't enough room. My progressive reservoirs use enough foam to fill about 1/3 of the front shocks-- there certainly isn't that much room in the shock caps.

And n2o: I can't recommend the K&N filters. I have one, and it likes to fall off constantly. In a crash (even light ones) they tend to pop off the carb. The mounting neck on them really isn't long enough or designed properly to get a good bite on the carb-- remember, the K&N was originally designed to be used as a breather filter on full size cars.

[TRXboy]

Hehe blackwolf dont no me very well! :p As for me...dont haev pics :( :( I really want them to, this jump is great, it dosent get as high as some other jumps, but you can hit it at a very odd angel and still land the jump(No imperfections) hopfully i can get some soon, as for my truck....i need stupid stuff like E clips and screws....how bad is that!

[mp-7.5]

hey guys just got me a factory GT- now for the engine- considering either , CV-R, RB x12, MT12, or sidexhaust Rossi, what do u guys think? and will i have to mod crank to fit in GT? i run on a medium sized track with jumps so insane top end isnt needed... will the stock tranny hold up to this power??

thanks alot,
mike-

[TRXboy]

MP 7.5- check around on this boared, im shure you will find answers to all your questions, as for the crank, the GT use's a short crank, The O.S CV-r comes in a special form for this, i use that engine and the tranny olds up fine, people here use the rear exsaust mills and have no probs with the tranny ether.

[Snoozy]

BlackWolf, he was planning on breaking something, you might want to read up, he destroyed the entire rear end of his car.

[Gokou]

mp-7.5: How long are the straights, and how long have you been running nitro? Also, do you have a temp gun? The RS12, MT-12, and X12 are all great motors if you've got the experience, and I recommend you have a temp gun, as they are pretty sensitive to tuning. The exhaust manifold will stick way out on the rear exhausts, but you can re-bend it or leave it, depending on your taste. The CV-R is a great motor, I would venture to say it would be better suited to your medium track because it has a smoother powerband than the rear exhausts, which tend to hit rather hard.

And yes, the stock tranny will hold up to any of said motors.

[illbreakit]

Thanx Hey Gokou, your up travel down travel tip worked awesome ;) Thx for sharing. Man, can you drift the back end of a gt around corners. very touchy on the throttle. wuz keepin up with the nitro touring cars though. :D And if they get in my way, I can run them over :eek: j/k

[BlackWolf]

I just got this throttle linkage set from the LHS. It's AWSOME! I think EVERY RC10GT owner should have this set. It gives you peice of mind that the throttle linkage won't bind, or break sending your car to drive itself off the edge of the world...

http://www.gpmd.com/images/ofnc1724.JPG
It's OFNA Racing part 10724

[Turboduck01]

i love the feeling of wanting to race :D

[BlackWolf]

The exhaust manifold will stick way out on the rear exhausts, but you can re-bend it or leave it, depending on your taste

You gotta love it: I bent my manifold to just about where I wanted it. I used a spring type tube bender I picked up at the ace hardware.
It was perfect. I was too picky, and wanted 'perfection'. Bad idea. To make a long story short, I colapsed the tube at the 1st bend. It's pinched now. The mill still runs, but not nearly as well is it did before... :(
Now comes the fun part. It IS cast aluminum, and was told by a lot of ppl that you can't TIG weld cast aluminum. BS! You can TIG anything. So I'm going to give it a shot this weekend. I'm going either cut out the colapsed section, or use the coupler that has the holes in it for the spring (you know what it is, i hope) and attach a section of AL tubing that I found. I hope it's not TOO tough to weld cast aluminum to extruded aluminum.. Wish me luck. :rolleyes:

[Skateboarder]

Hey, I will be getting my gt soon and I would like to know if the engine that I have will fit into my gt. Its a os hyper cv-x .15 that used to be in my T-maxx. Also what would be a good size clutch bell for it, I have a 18 tooth one and a 20 tooth one. I will only be racing againts a .21 T-maxx but no actual club racing so would one of these clutch bells be good.
Thanks a lot :)

[RC10GTMark]

That big of a clutch bell is gonna give you some top end, but still, it all depends what spur gear you match it up with.

I dont remember how the crank is on a tmaxx, but the most you will have to do is cut down the threads on the shaft, but a pilot shaft, clutch, flywheel and clutch bell.

[wojo65]

I am waiting for my rc10gt rtr, i bought a full team set of bearings and flanged bearings a 4-n-1 clutch and a mip 360 stinger pipe, i am going to set my 4-n-1 clutch on setting 2, but whatare a camber and toe, and what should i set them on? please help :confused:

[TRXboy]

Skateboarder, the T-maxx uses the same crank as the GT, as for the cluch bell, if you are using a 18 and 20 from a T-maxx they wont work, the GT uses a driffent cluch bell and bearing size,

wojo- what are you gunna be doing? O use -2 on all 4 wheels, that seems to work well.

[Gokou]

BlackWolf: Finally, someone listened to my tip! I think I recommend the Ofna linkage as a "must have" every few pages. It is by far the most precise and slop-free setup I've found. And it looks as good as it works! :D

As far as the manifold goes: I'd suggest you braze it before you TIG it. That aluminum is soooo soft I think even a low current arc from the TIG will melt it into a blob of goo. Brazing will hold it plenty securely and you probably won't melt it down. I guess I was very lucky on my manifold. I'm very picky, and the manifold is bend perfectly for me-- it just hits the body without flaring the body out. I hear Novarossi is working on a manifold just for trucks, but no word yet on when it will be released.

And illbreakit: Good to hear the suspension tip worked. How does it drive now? How low do you have your GT?

[wojo65]

racing on a homemade track and racing onroad against t-maxx's

[RC10GTMark]

im bored =(

[Skateboarder]

Thanks guys. How come the clutch bell that I have wont work, I though they would fit, O well.
Does anybody know if the team built gt comes with a clutch bell.

[Gokou]

I believe all the GTs come stock with a 15-tooth clutch bell (and 66 tooth spur gear).

What clutch bell do you have, and why won't it work? Is it a problem of gear mesh (can't move the motor far enough for proper mesh), or is it a clutch bell off another vehicle?

[Skateboarder]

Hi, I have a 18 tooth and a 20 tooth cluth bell and ya it was a clutch bell of an other truck(T-maxx) I thought that it would fit.
Well if it comes with a clutch bell then its ok, and with that 15 tooth clutch bell and a os hyper .15 engine do you think it will be faster then a .21 powered T-maxx?
Thanks.

[ 06-02-2001: Message edited by: Skateboarder ]

[TRXboy]

Yeah if it is an AE cluch bell it will work but i thought he was using a traxxas cluch bell(which wont work), a stock GT comes with a 15...

[Gokou]

A .15 will have the torque to spin taller gears. I'd recommend trying perhaps a 16 or 17 tooth clutchbell. You also may want to consider leaving the stock 15 toother and picking up a 64 or 63 tooth spur, preferably a machined plastic one from Robinson Racing. They run truer and last longer than the stock AE gears.

[ 06-02-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[Skateboarder]

Cool, thanks. I will be using the stock clutch bell then but I would like to know how fast would it go with it.
Thanks :)

[Jace2000]

Goku..
Where did you buy your set of progressive shock reservoirs and how much did you pay them for? I wanted to order from Stormers but they're always on order.

Thanx in advance.

[RC10GTMark]

Im so happy. My GT was my first RC ever besides radio shack stuff. I have been playing with it for a while and learning alot, some from this forum, alot from breaking and trial and error.

I went out to the bmx track again, during the races and started playing with the truck. During the break between a set of motos I took it out on the track and did an entire lap, timed EVERY jump perfect. An RC track LOOKS cake compared to the amount of jumps and stuff of a bmx track. I think I wanna start racing now =)

[Gokou]

I got them from National R/C, but I got the last set they had in stock. These are tough little buggers to track down. I'd order them straight from Progressive Suspension-- same price, $62.50. I haven't seen them cheaper anywhere else. At least from Progressive they are guaranteed to be in stock, and while you're at it you could order some spare G-clips and o-rings. I need to order myself a few to have on hand just in case I tear and o-ring or lose a G-clip.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Alright, I need help. I have two choices.

1) Should I buy some aluminum wheels and a bump starter (which I'm pretty good with)

2) Should I buy a starter box and forget the wheels?

[Gokou]

Aluminum wheels? Those would be strictly shelf items for me. GT tires are so low profile you'll just end up nicking the rims if you hit anything. At least on something like a T-maxx there is a lot of tire to protect the rim. Plus, they're heavier than plastic wheels, which will detract from handling. But I bet they'd look sweet. Got a link for them? I haven't seem aluminum GT wheels since Technacraft went under.

Personally, I like my bump starter. The only time I have a hard time with it is when I have my body on and can't get a good grip on the chassis. I'll get a starter box sooner or later, but that isn't a priority for me right now.

morfeeis: if it matters, the little gel-cell in my bump starter lasts a LOOOOOONG time. I've used it an entire weekend (probably 40+ starts) and it just keeps going strong.

[TRXboy]

RC10GTman- Dich the alumnim wheels, dead weight on your truck and wayy to much $$$, just get a starter box, or get a bump and you can get some hop-ups with the extra money :)

[Snoozy]

get the starter box, simple as that, and invest in a gel cell, I only recharge mine every month or so, and it has enough juice to turn over my picco all day!

[BlackWolf]

HELP :(

I keep bending the RC10GT flat chassis right behind the front tube mounts :(

Does sombody make an aftermarket chassis, you know; somthing STRONGER?!

[atm92484]

If the chassis bends there and you bend it back, then that is going to become a weak spot. Due to this it will bend in the same place again. You best bet would be to get a new chassis. You could also buy a chassis update kit since its only a few dollars more and you'd get some extra parts. What are you doing to get it to bend anyways?

[morfeeis]

i mean how long do the gell fcells last before it is time to get a new one.. with the cell i have i am luck to have a days worth of running before it dies out , and it fells like it has less power all together

by the way i have had this gell for about 2 years

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Gokou, I was thinking that they'd add way too much weight for racing and general use. The link isRadTech Racing (http://www.radtechracing.com/). They are 120 for a set of 4.
You said that you run a gel cell in your bump starter, what of starter is it? I've only seen ones that plug into the wall.

TRXBoy, I was thinking about buying a bump start and then getting an MIP temp probe and a Duratrax CV piston/sleeve set.

Speaking of bent chassis, I've seen numerous RTR chassis bending, but very seldom do I find a Team or FT chassis that's bent. The RTR's seem to be lighter blue in color and thicker too. Is there a difference in metals between the two?

[SteveP]

There is a difference in chassis material. I believe the FTGT chassis is 6061 or 7075 T-6. the RTR chassis is unobtanium (no idea). They are certain different and the FTGT chassis is stronger.

[SteveP]

BTW - if you are really bending the FTGT chassis on a regular basis, you really need to stop hitting stuff going so fast so often. Something's got to give ya know... :D

[ 06-03-2001: Message edited by: SteveP ]

[Gokou]

The chassis on my FTGT is currently bent; it's tweaked up about 1/8" in front; the bend starts just behind the nose tube mounts. Then again it was because I was letting someone drive and they hit a concrete curb at about 20mph. It was a GOOD hit. It tore the nose brace mounts right off the chassis. I didn't think anything of the chassis at the time of the crash, I just replaced the nose braces and put it back together. I noticed the chassis was bent last weekend, that crash happened last August or so. Oops. :D

And GTman: I run the Hobbico PowerPack MarkII with my bump starter-- it's a little plastic box which contains a small gel-cell that bolts right to the starter. Link is here: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=HCAP0901

[Jace2000]

RC10GTMan

I would get the starter box if I had an extra $120. They make life at the track so much easier. I used to use a bump starter before but now I'm never going back to that life again.

[TRXboy]

Yeah im picking myself up a starter box soon, as for the bent chassis i have done it twice...but then again.....*caugh*.....

[BlackWolf]

I'll tell you what I do to get it bent! I let my friend drive it. No biggie, it's more of a nusance than a real problem. I was eyeballing a Grade 2 or 5 titanium chassis. I'm sure instead of it bending, it'll just snap. That'll be it, I'll have to put it away until I can find another 135 dollars to replace it.

Sombody here told me somthing about a "Chassis update kit". Is this for the Factory Team Flat chassis, or for the other RTR pos?

As usuall, I'm almost certain that I can find a solution to this problem with my TIG welder. I would like to fab a bracket that mounts right inbetween the servo saver assy, and to the rear and right of the steering servo... I doubt I'll give it a try untill I can get a new pan.

The area where I bent just seems like a terribily likely place for a bend. Wouldn't it have been better for AE to continue the 'beveled' edge all the way to the tip before the kickup?

<I'm soo mad>

[Gokou]

I agree-- the kicked-up sides on the chassis should continue up to the bellcranks (where it needs to be flat for linkage clearance). I think that would help chassis rigidity greatly. Not that the FTGT chassis is bad-- it's much better than the old tub chassis and is probably the best chassis for GTs on the market at the moment. The nose brace tubes create a bending moment in the chassis at their mounting point, which means the chassis will bend directly at or just behind the nose brace mounts 99% of the time in a front end impact. I'm toying with the notion of making a carbon fiber upper deck, supported by custom 6061-T6 aluminum standoffs, or better yet, 6AL-4V Titanium standoffs. I've got the carbon fiber, I've got the aluminum rod, and I've got the titanium rod, but I have yet to come up with a design for the upper deck that looks good. I've made several different designs out of thick posterboard and layed them on the chassis, but none of them look very appealing to me-- plus they would all make it a pain in the booty to clean the truck. I also want to find a good way to tie the upper deck into the front bulkhead. Bolting it to the front body mounts a-la the GPM upper deck just doesn't cut it. Going to the back mounting points on the front shock tower would be great, but that wouldn't leave room for the steering bellcranks. I'll figure something out sooner or later, later being the more likely option. :p

I'm considering trying to build a hinge attachment method at the front shocktower, that way for cleaning you could unbolt the upper deck from the standoffs and lift it upwards and out of the way.

So far I think the best option for front attachment would be to make new front nose brace mounts, that would be high enough to clear the servo and provide a good solid mount for the upper deck. The nose brace tubes do a good job of stiffening the chassis from the mounts to the front, it's directly behind the mounts where the bending usually occurs.

[ 06-03-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[BlackWolf]

I broke the crankshaft on my Picco P12 Rear Exh engine :(

The threads all cracked off the shaft.

I need a new crank.

Where can I order one from where I won't get gouged? I mean, I might as well hang this one from my rear view mirror, and get a new one. :(

[Gokou]

Doh! Did you cut it too short and tighten down on the clutch nut too hard? I remember you saying in another thread that you cut it too short... sorry to hear that. I don't know where to get one, as I don't run a Picco. Tower perhaps?

[TRXboy]

Picco rear exsaust, didnt know they where avalible, how'd you like em?

[BlackWolf]

Picco rear exh is AWSOME! (.12) Great midrange, and smooooth!

Since I have to buy another engine, would sombody tell me why I would want to stick with .12 or get a .15..

I found a crank at sheldons hobbies for about 50 dollars. I don't know if I should get it, or save another 70 dollars, and get a Novarossi RS12..

[Gokou]

Save $70? I believe the RS-12's are more in the range of $170+... that's another $120 you'd have to save. I'd just get the crank. You might want to consider getting a new con-rod, as the old one probably took a set on the old crank. If the motor is pretty fresh though, I wouldn't worry about getting a new con-rod. Just toss the new crank in, go rich and easy on it for a few tanks and let 'er rip. You've already broken the piston and sleeve in, you just need the new crank to take a set.

[ 06-04-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I say stick with the Picco. I used to hate them, but have started to really like these new engines.

Would it cut down on chassis flex if you just made some longer nosebrace tubes? That would be much easier than making an entire upper deck. It would barely add weight, and clean ups would be just as easy as before the moodifications. I come up with some nice ideas when it's late. (11:40 my time. Oh yes, I'm real rebel.)

EDIT: After further examination of my GT, you would probably have to stand the steering servo up, and move it to the middle of the chassis more. How far do you think they need to go?

[ 06-04-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[Turboduck01]

Does anyone here have the O.S. CV-R and enjoy, I've been thinking of getting either that, because of supposive ease of tuning, or a Picco, because they are crazy fast in N-XXT's. :p Any suggestions, comments?

[morfeeis]

how long do the gell cells in your starter box's last cause mine in the old ofna box is just not kicken out the power i need anymore :D

[Gokou]

The Piccos are good mills, my only gripe with them are the carbs. The needles are threaded way too coarse, which makes tuning annoying. A half turn on a Picco carb is roughly equivalent to a full turn on an OS or Nova carb. The coarse threads are also more prone to drifting due to vibration. If I had a Picco, I'd ditch the Picco carb and put an OS carb on it. Most of the pro's do anyways, even on Rossis, simply because OS carbs are probably the best in the business. Easy to tune, they hold a setting VERY well, and they are very consistent. Pick up the Lunsford adapter, or make your own (as I did) and toss that OS carb on. I just got a new boot for my OS carb, so I'll be putting it back on my MT-12 next time I work on my GT.

[ 06-04-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[loki]

Anybody know how much the chassis will bend on impact? I've got some stress mounts right behind the nose brace tube mounts, which appeared after a session at the BMX track. One thing I noticed that day: I had my body mounted about 3/4" higher than stock, and it seemed like on a nose-first landing, the chassis was bending enough to let the sides of my body get stuck on the *inside* the exhaust pipe. Not sure what else might have causeed that, besides the chassis bending like a bow?!? Makes me wonder how effective an upper deck would really be?

Well, at least mine hasn't stayed bent yet :D

Loki

[Gokou]

So... who is going to host the 1000 post party? :D

[stormperson]

i need some engine advice here...

i got the new duratrax piston and sleeve, which seems to lack alot of compression BEFORE i even started to break it in. and ontop on that the engine keeps leaking out the back or nasty gray goo does and messes up the pullstarter so it wont start. should i just sell the engine, or should i send it back to os for them to work it out, or what?

should i just go with a cvr, because i want the abc piston and sleeve, and i figure the extra power cant hurt. i need some advice here....
(about to throw it out the window)

[illbreakit]

Here is my on road gt setup

Front

.71 shock rods
stock gt shock body
2 thick spacers inside/outside skock body
silver buggy front springs
60 wt associated oil
#1 pistons
10 degree caster blocks
1 degree camber
0 degree toe in
ride hight 3/8" chassis to ground
Proline Road Rage tires

rear

gt front shock rods
gt rear shock body
3 thick spacers inner/2 outer
blue gt rear springs
60 wt associated oil
#2 pistons
3 degrees toe in
4 degrees camber
Proline Road Rage tires
ride hight 1/2" off ground

Track surface was prepped ashphalt, but it works equally well in a parking lot

I also made a larger rear wing and made a sprint car style front wing out of 1/16" alluminium. I have since made lighter, contoured plastic wings with side plates that hold really well

Originally I was going to use buggy front shocks but the shock kit had 2 different bodies :mad: new one is on order. As far as the rear, I figure the front gt shocks should be about perfect length. I will eventually have a set of shocks for both applications, much easier than changing rods and pistons twice a week :eek:

Rear camber was quite a bit because of the pronounced body roll in the rear. This way, at extreme cornering, the outside tire was flat on the ground, proveding maximum traction. Gonna have to design an anti-sway bar. Man does it power slide nice :D

On a different note, I went to the old go kart track with my friend today. I was out of fuel so I used some of his HPI 20%. Ran great but we both were eating glow plugs, I've never burnt a plug in 3 gallons with my motor, only change with each new jug. I normally run Odonnel 15 or 20% depending. I noticed that the HPI has allot more oil left in the cylinder after a run and the compression seemed higher( more oil?) When the glo plugs died, the coils were pushed up into the plug, a sigh of to high compression i think. Has anyone had the same type of experience? Our motors are both the same AE.15 with about the same wear, still in great shape. I just can't figure it out

[GTboy]

stormperson:

First off, your saying that the new Duratrax ABC piston and sleeve has no compression? Can you easily turn the flywheel thru the entire cycle with no resistance? If not something is wrong!

Secondly, where is the leak coming from in the back? By the exhaust port, by the head? Did you put a gasket or at least some gasket goo on the exhaust header before you threaded it on? Are the header screws loose?

We need this kind of info to be able to help you, otherwise its like looking for a needle in a haystack!

:)

[stormperson]

i used the rtv sealant, they say copper, however its more of a reddish clay color. i used that to seal the backplate.

i used loctite on all the screws, i used red just to make sure. i used a brand new gasket on the header, and tightened it down with screws, then i used the thin nuts and more red loctite.

i think the 2 main areas where it is leaking (because i can hear a hissing sound during running) are the backplate, where the cylinder comes out that the pullstarter's bearing attaches too. its probably leaking between the cylinder and the bearing, however i really cant seal that up, i tried afterun though.
i also think the carb is leaking. i dont think its the seal though. also the carb has play to it. i can move it side to side (not the base part, but the part that is covered with the rubber, and the whole unit that is used to control how much fuel can go in).

also i dont know if this helps, but the pullstarter's cord is covered in a grey rather thick liquid.

oh, and as for the compression, there is resistance, however very little, when the piston was new and right out of the package, i could push it to about 3mm from the top of the sleeve.

[stormperson]

okay, i was able to run about 1/4 of the 4th tank of break in.

i was able to get it started up, however it kept dying when i tried to. anyway i get it started in the begging of the tank i was able to let it idle.

i start running it around my driveway at bursts of aruond half throttle, it never went above 10mph. i did a spit test, stayed on for more then 10 seconds, and i was able to touch it for about a second without burning my hand. so i get to where the fuel is at the seam of the tank (about 1/4 of a tank left) and i bring it over to check it, and i let it idle for maybe 2 seconds and it dies. i tried to re-fire it, however it wouldnt. this is what has been happening for the past 8 tanks, almost all of this piston and sleeve and also the last one.

i checked for fuel around the engine, and there is some near the carb, i mean only a little bit, and i think its from me taking off the air filter and putting it back on.

also i was running with the smoke being light, and it sounded not so rich, however any richer and it wouldnt start.

could anyone tell me what these lead to? to me it says new piston and sleeve, however i have done that twice and it hasnt been the answer.

thanks!

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Storm, I had similar problems. You aren't running a head gasket, and that's what's causing the nasty grey crud. If the spit stays on that long, it's too rich. The settings I think you might want to go from are about 1 and 1/2 turns on the high speed needle, and flush with the brass boot on the low end. If you don't lean out your engine, you'll only be wearing down on the piston and sleeve. I can push my carb rotor side to side also, so I don't think that's anything bad.

I'll break it, I dunno what the problem is with the glow plugs, but I do know the HPI fuel has more oil. If uyou switch fuels, it's best to idle a few tanks of it before you run the engine hard. This might be the cause of the problems.

[stormperson]

whats a head gasket? is that the gasket that seals the backplate to the crankshaft? because if thats it,then i sealed itup with the copper rtv stuff.

[n2o]

99 :)

[n2o]

1000!!! Woo Hoo!!

:cool:

[RC10GTMark]

1001!! LOL yay.

[stormperson]

we got 1000 posts, yay.... now can someone please help me out here, gtman was helping me out some, but could someone give me some suggestions? thanks

[ioNcasT]

In your opinions, what pipe would produce the best performance with a OS .12 CV-RX on a Factory Team RC10GT? Thanks

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Storm, sorry I didn't specify which one. It's a little washer looking thing that goes in between the head, and the sleeve. You just put it one the sleeve and screw down the head. Did the gray stuff turn your crankcase grey? It did it to mine, but doesn't hurt performance any.

Ioncast, it depends on what type of performance your are talking about. Low end, mid, or top. For low end, I suggest the AE GT pipe: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX3427&P=7
For mid to top end, I think that the Picco "Pro" and "Racer" pipes are the best: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVZ03&P=7
Any pipe that looks like the AE or Picco will give you similar performance.

So, how long do you think we'll take to hit 2000?

[ioNcasT]

You don't think CVEC or Paris Pipes are good? Thanks

[TRXboy]

jeez i dont post for a day and....

[IFLYBYU]

Hi guys,

I need some advice here. How do i tell when I need to rebuild me diff? And what is the best rebuild kit to get? This thread is amazing!!!

Thanks
Mike

[NewB Nitro Man]

Hrmm 7 tanks of gas through my GT Ready to rebuild they should call em. **** shoulda just of gotten a FT GT but oh well, now back on track.....7 tanks and two diff bolts broken. one was factory settings, and I tried to mimick the factory settings when I rebuilt the diff. So any ideas on why this is happening?? **** I wish I didnt have to wait for parts (missing from kit)for my OB4, cuz this is 2 cars down!
Any Ideas or remedies?
thanks
-Jr

[Jace2000]

IFLYBYU...
Grab both rear wheels with your hand and turn one side of the wheel in one direction while turning the other wheel in the opposite direction. If the diff feels "sandy" than it's a good sign for a re-build. If your diff starts slipping even if you tightened the diff nut, then you have to re-build it. You can easily check this by holding the spur gear and try moving the car forward. If the rear tires start rolling on the surface, it means that your diff is slipping.

You'll have to get several things if you want the ultimate long lasting diff. Get a steel diff gear either from Robinson Racing or HG and a diff rebuild kit from MIP. If you wanna get nasty, you should consider getting ceramic diff balls. I'm currently using the ceramic balls and the hardened diff plate from MIP. I gotta tell ya that my diff is super smooth and it's been like that ever since I put it together.

[ 06-04-2001: Message edited by: Jace2000 ]

[Rc1oGtMaN]

IFLYBYOU, Jace hit it right one the money.

Ioncast, when I said that pipes of similar looks deliver similar performance I knew you'd ask me if some other pipes were good. Yes, both of those pipes are nice. I'm not too knowledgable about the CVEC. The Paris Turbo Ring is like the AE pipe. It all depends on what kind of driving, and whether your track/backyard is long or short.

Diff bolt, I dunno what that is. Nitro Man, please elaborate.

[wojo65]

I need to know some good set-ups for my rc10gt. Its a rtr i will be running it on a ace track i need accel. and speed? :confused:

[TRXboy]

Anybody having problems losing the long tranny screws that bolt in on the bottem? I keep losing them and i dont know why....As for my truck...its not having its best week....

[NewB Nitro Man]

Its actually the thrust bolt that threads into the t-nut it bolts the two outer hubs to the gear.

Hope I elaborated enough :D

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Nick, since the tranny case is made of plastic, the threads will be destroyed from taking out the screws all the time. Try screws with bigger threads.

Nitro Man, I haven't had that problem. I bet you have your diff in bas-ackwards. This can loosen the diff bolt. If I'm right, the bolt should be pointing towards the right side of the truck. Yes you elaborated enough. :D

[TRXboy]

Man i just replaced that tranny case last week! O well, AE should have come up with a better way of stopping chassis flex...take those 2 screws out and the chassis flexs liek made, i gess they got ripped out...o well $6 part aint nothing to be POed about...Now about this thread...try reading threw it again...i never seen so much usful info in my Life..Keep up the good job guys!

[Jace2000]

wojo65
How's the surface of the track you're planning to run on?
As for increasing speed, I recommend getting a 16T pinion gear and replacing the stock flywheel with a MIP lightweight one.
My GT has a RB X12 with Novamega turbo pipe. I tried using 17T but the acceleration wasn't very good and I settled on 16T. I get quite a bit of top speed on my track considering that it has very loose dirt and poor traction.

[NewB Nitro Man]

Well it is/was pointing that way, and even came from factory that way (its a RTR) so I dont know what would be causing the problem.... bah D@mn 2 cars sidelined. Guess its time to learn the XR3 JR transmitter. Someone else ever heard/had this problem of the thrust bolt snapping the head right off? D@mn the engine is barely broken in. :mad:

Guess you cant say D@mn how ghey!

[ 06-04-2001: Message edited by: NewB Nitro Man ]

[kc2cau]

I am no expert on this *but* I ran my first 4 tanks yesterday and here is what I learned a few things. The recommended 3 1/2 turn setting for the high speed needle is not right. It's so entirely rich, it just floods the engine. Mine wouldn't start at all till I took out the air restricter (a little white thing) and even then it was so rich I could see unburned fuel spewing from the exhaust pipe. I had to lean it a little bit, and raise the idle, otherwise it would drown itself when I tried to accelerate. It still simply will not run with the air restricter in it.

MJF


:eek:

[Nabby]

Whoo-Hooo IT FINALLY ARRIVED!!! (Yes, I know I'm shouting, but hey, that's what you do when you're happy!!) My RC10GT FT arrived today. Wow, talk about a lot of little parts...maybe I should't have just dumped them into a big pile :eek: Well, now the fun really begins, building it. I'm thinking of taking step-by-step pictures as I go on this and see how it turns out. Hey, that's an idea for a contest. Take a close-up picture of an RC10 part, and then everyone needs to guess the AE part number!!! Oh, well, most likely won't fly. Gotta go, later.
:p

[RC10GTMark]

If your thrust bolt is snapping the head right off, maybe it is the thrust bearings. Those little balls and washers are supposed to have AE black grease on them, but without the grease I would imagine it would build up enough friction and heat to break the bolt.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Nabby, congrats on getting your truck? Is this your first truck? It was my first truck a while ago. Took about a week to build. You shouldn't have dumped everything into one big pile. The instruction book will tell you to open certain bags and to use special sized parts. This will slow your build waaaay down.

Nitro Man, take the truck to your lhs and tell them what's going on. Hey at least now you'll know your transmitter manual really well now. :p

[wojo65]

well i got alittle mad today, i found out my rc10gt rtr would get here in july, so i cancelled my order and re-ordered a rc10gt factory team with a .12 cvx engine i cant wait till i get it!!!!!!!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D

[TRXboy]

Wojo- you saved your self sooo much money doing that...glad to hear it!

[NewB Nitro Man]

Yeah my RTR GT used for bashing has only had like 7 tanks ran through it. shoulda bought the FT GT. I like the AE .15 though. Pretty ballsy for me. anyone want a RTR GT :rolleyes:

-Jr

[morfeeis]

could always use another toy how much
:cool:

[BlackWolf]

Since I have to buy another engine for my GT, I was looking at the RB X12 engines. The engine is offered with a Serpent style crank, and a Standard.

From what I understand, the threaded portion of the Serpent crank is replaceable. Meaning, when I cut it too short again, I can just replace the threaded rod instead of the whole crank.

Would I be able to run the Serpent style engines on my GT? I've got the standard stock clutchnut, and bell...

[Jace2000]

BlackWolf:
I'm currently using the RB X12 and it rocks. More than enough power for the GT.
My engine came with a Serpent style crankshaft so I had to get a standard crankshaft and replace the original one.
As you mentioned, the threaded part of the standard crankshaft can be replaced with a new one.

[pp13b]

i also have a RB12 in my gt , its silly fast.. :D :D

[Big Wig]

Well folks, I just joined the club! I called a hooby shop that's 1.5 hours away from me and bought my GT over the phone! I was in there the other day but didn't realize what a good deal I would be getting if I bought this kit. The hobby shop is moving and he's selling stuff cheap. I got the FT RC10GT with a Dynamite engine for $319 !!!! I've been looking around and even the chain stores are selling Team kits with the same engine for $380 !!! I had to buy it :D The guy is shipping it to me.

As soon as I have time, I plan to read through this entire thread but my shop is busy so it won't be real soon :( Soooo, I do have a question: I think the truck comes with Pro-line Bow Tie tires. I run these on my Losi XXX-T and they don't hook up very well on my track,... decent at best. I'd like to find a tire that will do well on the loose surface of my track. Any suggestions?

thanks
Jay

[Bodido GT]

Big Wig: If it's hard pack, but with a real loose surface, step-pin style tires could be the way to go. Losi and pro-line both make versions. But when in doubt.... Ask the guy who just won the A-main :p

[Big Wig]

Bodito GT,

Thanks for the reply! I will try the step-pin tires. I can't ask the guy who just won the A main though,... when I say my track, I actually mean the track in my backyard :D Richard Saxton hasn't stopped by lately either LOL

check out the pics

track 1 (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=619535&a=4520116&p=48409808&Sequence=0&res=high)

track 2 (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=619535&a=4520116&p=48409812&Sequence=0&res=high)

track 3 (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=619535&a=4520116&p=48409815&Sequence=0&res=high)

thanks again

[Snoozy]

Why don't you try something more of a play tire like the dirt workz, they should hook-up halfway decently, and last about 2 years!

Good Luck

[atm92484]

Jeeze I've been busy studying for finals the last 2 days. I just got a chance to check this out and this post has grown another 3 pages since I was last here.

A play tire might be okay but I've found they last a long time but they don't hook up that well. By the time they've outlasted a race tire I've always found the tire gets really soft and doesn't hold its shape during cornering. I checked the inserts on my 2 year old Dirt Hawgs and it seems to be the tire its self-its just too worn. I've always ran the Bowtie and Edge M2s and as long as I stay off of pavement they last forever (well almost) and they seem to hold up well. For you guys looking for new engines remember O.S. is releasing the 12 TR (rear exhaust .12). Since its O.S. it will be easy to tune plus it will have the power of a rear exhaust.

[TRXboy]

ATM- I havent had those prbs with my dirt works(Just need new insirts) as for the TR...already have it on order :D

[Jace2000]

Big Wig...
Nice track man :)
And welcome to the forum.
If your track is made of sand+dirt, I think you'll have a better chance with some pro-line fun tires. The step-pin will hook up. I know this for sure, but as the guys on top mentioned it will wear out really fast. I use the step-pins only on the competition day.

[wojo65]

I am just wondering how much top end speed will i get with a cvx .12 with mip rear exhaust and the facotry team ae pipe. Which pipe would have more power. The MIP stinger or the stock factory team pipe? :cool:

[TRXboy]

Here you go guys, a little up date on my GT...


This one is to show you that i drove my truck(The scraches arent that bad...thank you chassis protector and 60 wt oil!)


Bottem of chassis (http://members.tripod.com/pitmonkey911/id71.htm)

and heres the chassis, sorry for the ghetto rear shock tower, sort of last resort.

Chassis Shot (http://members.tripod.com/pitmonkey911/id72.htm)

[Nabby]

Ok, it's a dumb request, but would someone please post a pic of their car without the airfilter on. I'm kinda confused :confused: about how it all fits together. I have the OS-Max.12CV-X Pull-start engine, so if you have one of those I would really appreciate a picture.

Thanks!

[TRXboy]

Wojo, i would stock with the AE pipe the stinger shock tower is not that strong (Caugh note pic above) but it will give more bottem end then the AE, but it makes the engine run eradicly, and not as much top end.

O yeah.... Titanum does NOT cut it anymore..

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1379414&a=10637478&p=49958548&Sequence=0

[ 06-06-2001: Message edited by: TRXboy ]

[wojo65]

yea i am gonna stick with the stock factory team pipe, i also am going to keep the 4-n-1 clutch. I am going to back yard race a t-maxx with a stinger pipe and a maximum st and a stampede with a .12 will i win? I am a very good driver.

[Turboduck01]

What the hel???? How'd you do that?!?!? purposely?

[atm92484]

Ok I started at the bottom of the page and scanned up. As soon as I saw the bent turnbuckle I knew that belonged to TRX. :p BTW cool truck.

[TRXboy]

Now that is scary...Ok i got a poll!!! How many of you would let me drive your truck?! Cause my friend dosent :D :D :D

[wojo65]

certainly cept you break you buy it lol :D

[NewB Nitro Man]

Hey drive my GT. it will sound good, but wont go anywhere with the thrust bolt broken :D

-Jr

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Wow Nick! I've seen titanium snap but not bent. I've always thought is was really brittle and have only seen it snap. I haqve one Q: How did you do it? Yeah I'd let you drive my truck - only if we were in a huge, wide open field.

I'm putting some balloons on my shocks, but they look really bad.

Nabby, can you describe what you don't understand? I can't give you a pic, but I do have that engine. What wrong? The throttle linkage?

[TRXboy]

Well i run titanum ball studs and alumnum bulks and rear hubs, landed on my rear left wheel from a good 10 feet, it just bent, and shure ill drive your truck in a wide open feild, just give me 10 minets with a shovel before hand :D ;)

[ 06-06-2001: Message edited by: TRXboy ]

[VexVegaz]

hey fellahs,

im having a lil problem here,
id like to get myself a set of those progressive piggys for my gt,but unfortunatly everywhere i looked they seemed to be on back order (gokou got the last one, how dare he, heh ). now i found out that gpm and new era makes similar products as progressive, should i just settle for those? or should i just wait till they do have em instock,and also if anyone does know where i might be able to find em please lemme know

thanks in advance

-Progressive Vex

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Vex,
Go to Progressive Suspension (http://www.progressivesuspension.com) and order them straight from the factory. They are the same price. I checked GPM and New Era, and those are both more expensive than the Progressives.

Big Wig, you track looks great. Is it made of sand and dirt? You might want to use some of pro-line's "fun tires." The Tractagators are supposed to do well on sand and dirt. Step Pins are expensinve because they wear down really fast if not taken care of (M3 compound is poo poo for play). Maybe even some Sand Paddles will work.

[VexVegaz]

Gtman,
ive tried em too ,and they were aslso sold out :mad:

thanks though

-BackOrder Vex

[Bodido GT]

Big Wig:
I guess that means you always TQ and take the A-main. You Da Man
:D

After looking at the track pics, I feel confident that step-pins will be good for you, especially if the track isn't watered frequently. Since it's not for trophies and such I'd recommend you stick with silvers (Losi), or M2 (Pro-Line). They'll last a bit longer than the softer reds and M3's

[Snoozy]

Dude, you are incredible, I finally managed to break something, I chewed the wire that runs between the reciever and the batt pack, so I'm outta comission for a couple days.

[TRXboy]

ooo that remins me, anybody running an alumnim bulkhead, if you land on your bumper from about 7 feet or higher you WILL shatter the batter box or rip threw the wraping around your pack...ill get pics tommrow, right now im tired..

-Nick

[Gokou]

ROFL TRXboy... I've snapped titanium ballstuds and turnbuckles myself but I have yet to turn one into a pretzel. You get a cookie! :D I'll say it again... WE NEED VIDEOS OF YOUR INSANE JUMPING! Or a series of stills...

Which reminds me... I think I'm going to brush polish my FT blue titanium turnbuckles. The blue is really faded and looks pretty bad. Polished however would look nice IMO :)

[BlackWolf]

.

[ 06-07-2001: Message edited by: BlackWolf ]

[TRXboy]

gokou-im working on them...anybody know what blackwolf said..you cant say somthing about me then edit it before i can see it....thats just wrong!

[Turboduck01]

lol mark, that was pretty funny, that kinda ***** though, man, don't ever try to take pics of your truck while racing with a auto zoom camera, err, maybe it was the film who knows but, I was hopin for some cool pictures of me racin at a big race and only got maybe 1 or 2 from a whole role! argh... oh well, rc10gt all the way baby : )

[Rc1oGtMaN]

It's easier to takes pics of your truck when you try to take a picture from far away. You should probably buy something like 400-800 film and increase your shutter speed.

What's that metal-like fule tubing? Can you put it on a GT? I think it looks pretty cool. Is it better than silicone in any way?

[wojo65]

i am building my factory team gt and i need to know where should i put the locktite (strong) on my car. I need to make sure i dont break any parts, thanx :D

[RC10GTMark]

I need a rebuild. My truck looks like **** , my gear is scattered all over. Im not gonna touch anything for a while, then im gonna goto the hobby shop and buy all the worn or broken parts and get them replaced. Gonna rebuild the truck completely, reorganize my gear then start from there.

Im breaking stupid parts cause im in a big rush for nothing, to go bash around. Man i've been making some stupid mistakes and i caught my self about to rig something on my truck, luckly I stopped.

Break time has commenced!

[atm92484]

Wojo, use it on any screw that goes into metal. This includes the 8 screws on the engine mount (4 to hold engine to mount and 4 to hold mount to chassis) , the clutch nut, and the nuts that hold the servo saver screws to the chassis are the big ones I can think of right now.

[Big Wig]

thanks to all for the advice (page 42)!

I guess the GT is pretty popular,... it's the biggest thread in the Vehicle Forums!

I got my GT today, whooo hoooo! I won't be able to start building for a little while yet though,... I have the "too many RC vehicles" problem (I'm sure some of you can relate ;) ) and I want all my other vehicles to be in tip top shape before starting a new project. I want to take my time building the GT.

Of course I perused through the box a bit ;) ,... the Dynamite engine looks sweeeet! How is the tuning video? Any good?

thanks
Jay

[Rc1oGtMaN]

The tuning vid is hilarious. All the guys have short shorts on. Who wears short shorts? Nair wears short shorts. Hehe. They look like retards. (No offense to Cliff Lette and the other guy. I know it was the style back then.) The video was made when the old school GT's were out, but the RTR sections have been spliced in.

Tell me how you like the Dynamite engine. I've had my eye on them, but haven't picked one up. I'd like to try the dished piston conversion kit for my OS CV to see how it performs, but I can't find a For Sale link on Horizon Hobby's website.

[BlackWolf]

I did't say anything about anyone. The post I made, and later edited out was a comment I made about how lousy Lunsford Ti is if people are bending them.

The last thing I need is to be sued for lible.

[TRXboy]

O sorry bout the confusion..its all goood.

[FXMAN]

clutch questions:
what is the best clutch set-up you have used, and please, have some hard evidence. no "i think it worked" please. i have the standard 2 shoe clutch, and was looking at the 4 shoe team clutch or the mip 4-in-1. i am running a new (not broken in yet) o.s. cv 15. but i do need to get rid of the "heat vent" head. i hear they dont cool well. what is a good inexpensive head for this engine. thanks for the help, shane.

[TRXboy]

FX man- i use the MIP 4-n-1 Cluch on the number 4 posishion, i would never let go of it, as for the cooling head, i think duratrax makes a nice cilender head for the O.S for around $30.

[RC10GTMark]

My thoughts exactly blackwolf.

I had a nice crash the other day at the bmx track. There is this long burm that you can easily hit 40mph on with a GT. Well I was doing so and talking to my friend and just lost concentration for just a minute. At the end of the burn there is a big table top with an insane lip. It was ment to launch bikes not rc's. Well I forgot to let off the throttle. I can clear this jump with like 1/8th throttle and I just hit it full throttle. I have a blue taco now =) anyone hungry?

[RC10GTMark]

TRXBOY, you can drive mine if I can drive yours =) At the bmx track of course.

[RC10GTMark]

I too use the 4 in 1 clutch in the number 2 position tho, little more slip for better traction. MIP is the best clutch to get because it will replicated any other clutch or any other combination of clutches on the market. It is also good because I use it =).

As for the head, I dont use that motor so I never looked into it, but I do recommend replacing it, my friend snapped a corner off of his, lol.

[Jace2000]

FXMan
Get the MIP 4-in-1 clutch shoe. You'll be very satisfied with it. I'm using it with the #2 setup. Read the included instruction to get the setup you want.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

FX, try all of the clutch setups for the 4n1 and see which one you like most. I don't know too much about the four shoe clutches, other than that Richard Saxton runs them. Ace Hobbies (http://www.ace-hobbies.com/) has some heads, and if you don't like those, I think you should try either a CV hyper head ($50) or an O'Donnnell head ($30). I don't think Duratrax makes a head for the .15.

[GTboy]

FX:

I use the 4n1 on setting #2. I could be wrong but I'm sure that the CV.12 and CV.15 are the same crankcase block ( piston and sleeve are different) but they both fit the .12 or .15 engine block.

:)

[Bodido GT]

MIP 4n1 here as well.... #2 setting of course. With a CV-R.

[Big Wig]

I watched the tuning vid last night LOL. It was OK,... not a lot of info. The best part was the racing footage at the end!

I can't wait to start building my GT!!!

Is there a "best" steering servo and a "best" throttle servo for the GT? I want to save up the money and buy the good stuff. Also, what configuration Rx pack do you run on a GT?

thanks

[Sal T. Nutz]

Well, each manufacturer makes an equivilent "Best" servo to the other companies. The Hitec "Best" servo is the 5925. It is the best for both throttle and steering. Tower has them for about $99, and it is well worth the investment. They are metal gear and will last you forever. I like the Hitec becasue they are the least expensive of all the Manufacturers.

[Sal T. Nutz]

I also use the MIP 4-1 clutch. But I use the setup, I think #1. Not too sure of the number, but it is basically the #2 without the weights. With the weights, it engages too soon and the engine hasn't reved enough to give me the power out of the hole that I want. And I have a CVR, so I know that a less HP engine, definately needs to get rid of the weights.

[Jace2000]

Go for the Hitec. They give you the most bang for your bucks. Hitec 5925 is a good choice.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

The best rec packs, IMO, are the type that have 4 cells on the bottom and 1 on top. I think Dynamite makes them. My lhs has the type w/3cells on top and 2 on the bottom.

Airtronics makes some awesome servos, but they are way too much. I don't think you really need a top of the line servo for a 1/10 scale truck. I think some 615's or 945's would be good.

N2O, what kind of clutch are you running? I blew a lot when I used to have the stock one in. I hate how those shoes burn up at idle and brake...

[RC10GTMark]

I use the mip 4in1 like i said, but i also dripped 2 holes in my clutch bell like a traxxas clutch bell to keep it cool. works pretty good.

just thought i would throw that in =) ;)

[GTboy]

n2o:

You'll love the Rossi pipe. It just makes my C12 side exhaust engine much better on the mid and top end. I can easily run with the rear exhaust engines and with much more top end than the AE pipe. Keep your gearing at 15/66. If your on a short tight track try a 14/66. You will not lose much on the bottom either with this pipe, it'll just feel smoother. I'm running a slide carb/AE blue restrictor 15/66 and I was as fast as the 1/8 boys on a 140' straight.

:)

[n2o]

GTMAN, I run the MIP clutch on setting #2.. It's just that the stock bell isnt that great..

GTBoy, yea.. I told the guy in my LHS that I wanted one like 3 weeks ago.. I guess it will come in sooner or later.. If it made your C12 that much better.. think what it can do for my MT12.. ;)

-n2o

[RC10GTMark]

im bored. my engine hasn't come in yet. i wnat my motor. im bored.

[Gokou]

Do what I do: turn the radio on, shove the truck as hard as you can and steer :D

n2o: I *really* like my Mega pipe (same as the RB X12 pipe, which I think is the same as the Novarossi .12 pipe). It's by far the best match I've found so far for the MT-12 and X12. The only pipe that was close to it in all-around performance was my CVEC, that is, when it was perfectly clean. Once the piston in the CVEC got even a little dirty, performance wasn't so good.

[Destrega]

Gokou what are you doing with a serpent pipe on a rc10gt?
ha, j/k whatever works right?

[atm92484]

LOL Gokou, you do that too? Thats all I did for the month while I was trying to find someone to cut the crankshaft on my 15 CV. Its fun trying to see how far you can go on one push. Oh well atleast you can't break anything.

[RC10GTMark]

Hehe i got a half pipe. I can push it fast enough to get enough speed for 1 or 2 jumps =).

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Ha, I push my truck w/the radio on too. Sure wish that radio would get delivered.

I was tearing down my truck earlier today, and one of my motor mounting screws stripped. I go to the trusty dremel, and it turns out that I'm out of cut off wheels. So I thought that maybe I could heat the screw w/a soldering gun. (I don't have an iron, I've got a super hot gun. :D ) So he heated the screw to try and make it liquify. I didn't liquify the screw. I liquified the threads on my mounts! :mad: I think there's still some threads left at the top of the mounts, so maybe a longer screw will work.

[ 06-08-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[hpi racer2]

hey n2o, did you get any rain in houston, i got 9 in.

[Gokou]

Destrega, here's what I'm doing with a Serpent pipe on my GT:

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/gt_left_1.jpg

I run the Serpent Mega pipe because it's the absolute best pipe I've found for my RB X-12 and modded MT-12. It's the same as the RB X-12 pipe. It has a very smooth powerband, and has the best all-around power, both down low, mid, and up top. The stock AE pipe was a bit of a wheezer on the top end, my CVEC worked great as long as it was perfectly clean (which was the first tank after cleaning it...), and the Mega pipe was right up there in performance with the CVEC but without the cleaning hassles. So I swapped the CVEC for the Serpent. Unfortunately it doesn't sound nearly as cool as the CVEC (which is by far the best sounding tuned pipe I've heard to date on an R/C), but at least I don't have to take it apart and clean it every few tanks :D

And Rc1oGtMaN: I can't believe you toasted the threads in your motor mount with just a soldering gun. You sure you weren't using an acetylene torch? ;)

[n2o]

Sup guys?? Just rebuilt my GT last night.. Still putting it back together really. I have been running it hard for a while and it just got all screwed up.. My clutch bearings blew and messed up my clutch bell really bad. So I got a Robinsons Racing bell and it works a LOT better. I also got that cool blue Trinity transmission brace.. Maybe that will help not blow my bearings.

What else can I get for my truck to make it any better?? I almost have everything on it that you would want. The only thing I am waiting for is a Novarossi pipe.. ;)

I'm going to paint a new body pretty soon, so I'll post some new pics of it then..

-n2o

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Gokou, that soldering gun is crazy. It turns a kind of reddish orange when it's fully heated. My little soldering iron doesn't even change colors. I'm surprised the heating element doesn't liquify on the gun. I was really surprised when the engine just fell to the counter as the threads got destroyed. There are still some threads at the top the mounts, or maybe I can tap it. The rest of my bimonthly truck tear down went smoothly after that. P.S. Nice truck.

My diff is still really really smooth after two and a half gallons. I think I'm going to rebuild if just to be safe. Don't want it to go south on me all the sudden...I've never gotten that much out of a diff. How long do yall get?

What happened to Railman? He's been gone for a while. Must be moving his rail store like he was talking about...

[TRXboy]

<--- still runnning included diff balls from 2 years ago....Caugh......

[RC10GTMark]

I use a fatuba 600 maH pack and put it under my reciever.

**This is a reply to an earlier post, im late, sorry.**

[ 06-08-2001: Message edited by: Mark ]

[BlackWolf]

Gokou: I need some info on your servo saver, and the ball bearing bellcranks you've got.

What kind of servo saver is that? How is it that your servo is sitting so high?

Let me have some part numbers please :)

[Gokou]

My whole steering setup consists of an Airtronics 94358Z steering servo, RPM servo mounting blocks, MIP 0-maintenance steering, and a Kimbrough Large high-tension servo saver. There is a 1/16" carbon fiber plate under the servo, because the Kimbrough servo saver is so large it rubs the chassis if you don't lift the servo slightly. It really isn't very high at all. The RPM mounts normally put the servo flush against the chassis (as stock). I needed to raise the servo for clearance, so why not cut out a piece of carbon fiber? Much cooler than washers :D The setup works great, much smoother than stock with less slop. I had problems with the stock setup's built-in servo saver working loose when driving for longer periods (over 1/2 hour).

Part numbers are...
Kimbrough large gas car servo saver (VERY high tension, only use with a beefy metal gear steering servo): Part #124

MIP 0-maintenance steering: Part #3013

RPM servo mounts: part #70062

I enlarged a pic for you, hopefully it makes things more clear.

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/steeringcloseup.jpg

I'm out of school next week (until I go back for my masters anyways) so hopefully I can get some clearer pics. I also need to take a pic of my new carbon fiber receiver guard. I'm also planning on fabricating a carbon fiber tranny brace with 6AL-4V titanium spacers on the bulkhead and the upper portion of the rear tranny. If I ever come up with a design I like for an upper deck, my truck may one day have a carbon fiber upper deck on the chassis supported by, you guessed it, titanium standoffs. I love working in aerospace... I get to keep extra material when the job is done! :D

[ 06-09-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[TeamCarnage]

Gokou- Did you put some kind of bedding under your servo? The first pic, it looks like you bedded your servo in something-(insert wisecrack here!) Just Wondering...

[TRXboy]

Cooln gokou, i have to pick me up a MIP kit, i hat the stock bell cranks.

[Gokou]

No, the servo isn't bedded in anything. The stuff that looks like a blob of adhesive in the first picture are the servo leads. The only thing under the servo is the carbon fiber plate.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

To whoever wins this auction, you can thank me later for the Progressive Suspension Reseviors (http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1604501001).

I was just reading the Touring Cars issue for RCCA, and I'm thinking about building a front drive GT. I dunno. Half of me says it'd be the dumbest thing ever, but the other have thinks it would be really cool. I'd have to move the tranny to the side, and flip the engine to the other side of the chassis...since the tranny would be offset, maybe I could use a TC size CVD for the shorter distance...I dunno. I probably won't do it. I want just thinking.

[Yinco the Butcher]

say gokou, how do those tires hold up on the street. Sweet ride man. :eek:

[TRXboy]

RC10GTMan- have you ever seen a Nitro MT run in only Front wheel drive....can you say suspenshion Hop! Altho it sounds cool, jumping is imposible, and handaling is not that great, now a 4 wheel drive GT on the other hand....

[Rc1oGtMaN]

A 4wd GT would be pretty sweet. Give me a few days to think over a plan for it. That makes me giggle just thinking about having a 4wd GT. :cool: I need to study some shaft drive systems if I'm going to do this. Maybe I could steal the TC3 f/r trannies and run an all metal tranny so it will hold up to offroad use. -Mark

[Gokou]

The Road Rage II's hold up great in front... The backs however are another story, especially after I switched to the rear exhausts from my modded .12 CV Hyper. The backs last about a gallon if you can keep the tire spinning to a minimum. They don't hook up as good as foams, but they do last substantially longer.

As far as a 4WD GT: I've thought of doing it, but I can't think of an easy way to do it that wouldn't add tons of weight to the truck, and upset the weight balance in the process. Plus, getting a front diff and driveshafts that would clear the bellcranks, shocktowers, and nose brace tubes would be rather difficult. So far I've thought of adapting the drivetrain from an HPI NMT, but if you're going to do that, might as well just buy an NMT. I say leave the GT 2WD and buy another vehicle if you want 4WD... aka an 1/8 buggy :D

[ 06-10-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[atm92484]

LOL TRX I tried that when my NMT still worked. I'd floor it and until I had some speed it was all tire spin. Looked cool but the tires didn't last. If you made a 4wd GT you'd have to remove the 30 degrees of kickup in the nose plate. Then you might be able to mod some TC3 steering parts to fit. It the end though the truck would probably weight a ton and handle really bad.

[TRXboy]

ATM- what does "When it still worked" mean? is your NMT as durable as glass to?LOL

[Gokou]

I almost bought an NMT Racer... the idea of a 4WD stadium truck is sweet. However, before buying one I started reading the truck forum over at HPI... They sound a wee bit fragile from what I gather, and that is being kind. I don't see the point in spending that much on a truck only to have to go out and buy HD metal tranny gears and other upgrades just to run it more than a few minutes :rolleyes: If they ever get the durability issues sorted out I might have to have one. I want a 1/10 truck that can actually find traction with my modded MT-12 :D Then again once I get a Mugen XR I'll have no need for an NMT... :p

[RC10GTMark]

what if you took a TC3 and just modified it to handle a nitro motor and then moded the suspension and dogbones to accomidate offroad. You can make your own a arms and shock towers, just make them to fit an available dogbone. You'll have a 4wd accosiated offroad thing.

[Gokou]

A good idea, but I'd wait for the Nitro TC3 to come out... who knows what kind of driveline changes they've made to stand up to a nitro powerplant. Once the Nitro TC3 is out then maybe I'll consider converting it to some sort of off-road abomination above and beyond the AE rally conversion :D

[stormperson]

quick question:

could someone give me a pro's and cons between the mugen mx-12 (or whichever one everyone is using) and a cvr. i am looking for a very consitant and easy to use engine.

thanks!

[RC10GTMark]

I haven't used anything but the OS and a stock motor so I cant help you.

With the tc3 nitro, that would be a cool project. Make some nice and beefy tall suspension with lots of ground clearance. som big tires and possibly a .21 :D

[Jace2000]

Guys...
I need some help here.
Does anyone know the web address for ODonnell?
Thanx in advance :)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Storm, I think the CV-R is what you are looking for. I don't have one (got a modded CV-X), but from my experience w/my engine, and with what everyone else says about CV-R's it's super easy to tune and keep tuned and it runs really stong and well - all the time.

The TC3 thing is a great idea, but we should probably stick to talking about GT's and stuff, so that the thread doesn't get closed.

Does anyone know of anything I can do to my truck to make it stand out, or gain performance? It's summer, and I'm a kid who likes to tinker with stuff, so I gotta have an idea to satisfy my hunger to mess with my truck. (Don't tell me to take it apart and put it back together - Did that twice already.) Gokou, how did the carbon fiber receiver protector come out? I could make one of those, if I find some graphite lying around.

[Jace2000]

Just a little survey here...
What fuels do you guys use?

[RC10GTMark]

Racing I use blue thunder 20%.

Just messing around traxxas 10 or 20%.

As far as not talking about the tc3, I dont think they will close it even if we talk about it a little bit. It is still accosiated and we were originally talking abou modifiying a GT. Besides who would close the biggest post on the forum?

To make your truck stand out, maybe you can change the color scheme. Take your chassis to get annodized, get your screws annodized, titanium can be anodized so your turn buckles, and add press chrome washers around your color bolts. Have your body painted to be matched. It would look cool. It is something to do, and you get to take it all apart again =)

[TRXboy]

To answer who would close it- the adimin's. as for the fuel, i use Trinity or BT, what ever i can get.

[RC10GTMark]

Well there are 1108 or so posts about the gt, i doubt they are gonna close it cause of 10 posts related to a tc3. Anyway when I make it ill post pics.

[stormperson]

i tried using odonell however, i thought it smelled bad, and i couldnt tell how much i had in the tank.

i went back to BT and it works great. just dont go switching fuels, and if you do, redo breakin for a few tanks, to make sure the enigne has time to adapt and let the new fuel soak in.

[Gokou]

I run O'Donnell 30%. Yes, I like speed. :D

And Rc10GTman: My receiver protector came out decently. It still looks a little plain IMO (then again, I work with carbon all the time so it doesn't seem really exotic to me anymore). Well worth the 10 minutes it took to make though, considering it protects both the receiver and the throttle servo. If I was home and had a digital camera I'd take pics for you. I'll be home middle of next week, and can hopefully borrow a digital camera then and take some new pics with the receiver protector. Maybe I should buy a digital camera with my graduation money... nah, a Mugen XR would be more fun :D

[atm92484]

It was awesome today. Me an my friend (nitrodriver19) went up to the high school. I had my GT and he had his L3. Since the baseball field and parking lot were right next to eachother we were both driving. It was pretty funny when he took the L3 onto the field. Anyways the pitcher's mount was an awesome jump. It wasn't that big but when I started at the fence in the outfield I could get some good speed and atleast 20 feet of distance. Hopefully I can get back up there next weekend.

That Nitro TC3 is going to be sweet. I can't wait for it. It will look really good next to my GT. I guess thats something else I'll have to save for. It would be pretty cool to take that and put longer suspenion arms on it and make a 4wd truck. It would show the NMT that Associated rules and the NMT isn't a Racer no matter what the box says. The Trinity conversion would probably work. I think it would be good since there would only be one speed but that braking system looks sort of weak and there would be a lot of fade.

Glass??? *** U smokin'? Glass would be a compliment. :D Leaving the road always meant I'd be calling my LHS 10 minutes later to order parts. A simple cartwheel would mean broken suspenion arms and bent SS hinge pins. Then 5 minutes later I'd get the GT out and do some insane flips and get 10 feet of air and the only damage would be to the body. Then I hit the mailbox with the NMT and totalled the it. All my problems suddenly went away and I was back to driving a GT and NDS. I tried to bend the chassis back the other day and it snapped in half. I think I might reassemble the back half just as a joke or something. I could imagine seeing it in Reader's Rides. "Here is ATM's NMT after a small crash. I don't see anything wrong with it."

Storm, I'm running a CV-R and I love it. Its as easy to tune as the CV but it hauls. Mine just passed 2 gallons the other day and it seems to get better and better every day. I just find the engine doesn't like to run when its cold but once it warms up it won't shut down.

[ 06-10-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[ 06-10-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[RC10GTMark]

Some guy wants to trade me my mountain bike for a NMT, im guessing it is a bad deal? I would be getting parts for my GT with it, but I dont want the NMT do I?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Well, looks like I'll start saving up for an NTC3. Boredom problems solved; I'm going to get another job so I can buy the TC when it comes out.

I'm running 20% Trinity Race fuel. The exhaust has a sweet smell with this gas. I've tried O'donnell, and BT. BT was my second fav. O'donnell is strictly a racing fuel. It doesn't have a corrosion inhibitor either, so you gotta use MMO right after EVERY run.

Nick, my GT is going to look like yours soon... it'll be broken! :p Tropical Storm Allison is sending killer waves of rain for 3 more days. I've had to make a dam out of sandbags by one of my doors Soon as it stops, the sand bags are going to be turned into a ramp. :cool: 18 sandbags - how high do you think that will make it? Mark, are you getting rain in Texas? -Mark

[ 06-10-2001: Message edited by: Rc1oGtMaN ]

[RC10GTMark]

Im to far north for the rain unfortunately. We need SOME, lol. We got a little bit over night last night, but only like 1/3 of an inch. How bad are you getting it?

[Jace2000]

Thanx for all your suggestions and comments on fuels. Does anyone know the web address for O'Donnell and Blue Thunder? I really want to check them out but I can't seem to find their homepage anywhere.
Thanks again guys. You're all a terrific bunch :)

[Trucks]

Hi! I'm new to this forum, and I have had a ftgt for about four months, I have only raced it twice becauce of the rain and some tech. problems.

Great information here, Wish I had found this place sooner. I have dynmite spd 12 in mine, but am looking for a little more horse power. I looked at a mt 12 last week but asked to have it sent back because I didn't know if the hearder would fit under the body, the lhs owner had ordered a header for an onroad car and I thought it would be to hard to make it fit.

question is will any rear exhaust manifold fit? Say the one I saw back a few pages in the picture. It may have been for a picco.

[RC10GTMark]

Correct me if im wrong, isn't dynamite the manufacturer for BT? If so try finding there web page. www.hpiracing.com (http://www.hpiracing.com) has a decent links section there, you might find what your looking for.

What kind of information are you looking for from the web sites? If your looking for oil types and amounts and stuff like that, I dont think you'll find it online, at least not BT. You can check by evaporation 100mL of fuel. What ever is left is the oil. 5mL of oil is 5% oil content.

[atm92484]

Mark I just looked there for him and I couldn't find it. The only site I could find for them was that of their distributor, http://www.horizonhobby.com

[Jace2000]

Mark and atm :
Thanx for all your trouble guys. I checked out Horizon and I think I'll have to do with the info they provided over there. I can't seem to find anything anywhere else.

Trucks:
Welcome to our little place. Actually, quite large :D
I'm running a RB X12 and I've got a Mugen rear exhaust manifold in there. It sticks out a little bit and it creates a not-so-pretty angle for the pipe if you just slap it on. I had to heat it up a bit and bend it. It bends fairly easily so you'll have to do it carefully.
Goku here used some sort of tool to do it but I can't seem to recall what it was.

[RC10GTMark]

Wow it is late. I moved my desk and im not used to the new position yet. I used to be able to get up and walk to the right or the left, well im so tired and with the new position there is a wall to my right. Anyway, I just walked into the wall :D

Jace, no problem, hope I helped.

[BlackWolf]

I used to worship the new Picco rear exh engines. Since I broke the crank on my P12, parts for it are very hard to come by since it's such a new engine.

So, I bought a Mugen/Novarossi MT12 last night, and after holding them up side by side, I HAVE to say that the Novarossi engines are made to MUCH MUCH higher standards.

Looking at the Picco, I can see that the molds for the crankcase halves don't even match up. The aluminum on the Picco seems to be lighter and more porous than the Novarossi.

The LHS didn't have a rotary MT12 in stock, so I just put the carb from my Picco on the MT12. It works great. Even the carb on the Novarossi is better IMO. The heads look the same but the fins on the Nova head are thicker, and is taller than the Picco. The exhaust port's OD on the nova is larger than that of the Picco. The header fits on much better, and really snugs up to the engine.

The crankshaft on the Picco has a lot of horizontal movement meaning you can slide the crank's shaft back and forth in the case more than an 1/8 of an inch. The nova is nice and tight.

My Picco is going back to trinity today. Sombody there told me to send it in, and they'll eyeball it for me. I'll have a spare engine, wich makes me feel all warm an fuzzy.

[ 06-11-2001: Message edited by: BlackWolf ]

[Gokou]

As far as bending the Mugen manifolds go, a spring bender is the best way to go. You can pick them up at almost any hardware store in the plumbing section. Even with the bender though you can't get too crazy, or you will split the tubing.

I've got a question for everyone... what kind of carbs are you running, slide or rotary?

[ 06-11-2001: Message edited by: Gokou ]

[illbreakit]

Rotary


I gota whine :rolleyes: It was a bad day at the track :(

To start things off, I finaly met a member of this bb, Grudly. Kinda cool meeting someone you have only forumed with. But, He's got the same frequency as me, so we ask around, got a set of crystals. Turns out those crystals were the same freq. too :eek: Three sets of the same is very rare at my small track. But we finally found a set that would work :) Then, I buy a gallon of fuel and four plugs. The first plug I put in striped my head :mad: :mad: The threads were ******d on the plug, it wasnt tight, just ate the threads. Ok I borrow a head from a friend(same motor, only his rod broke) and I'm runnin strong.
First heat, I strip the drive groove out of a brand new set of rims(just bought yesterday). Second heat, different tires/rims, the drive pin shears off in my cvd. then it started raining :mad:
Needles to say, I didn't make the main, AGAIN

Ive been doing so good lately, guess my name finaly cought up with me lol

"If it ain't broke, let me race it ;) "

[Jace2000]

Goku...
I'm using slide :)

Illbreakit:
I'm with ya man. One of thoes days huh?
:rolleyes:

[ 06-11-2001: Message edited by: Jace2000 ]

[stormperson]

i know that this isnt the buy or sell forum, however i recently had a body painted for me from cosmo graphics for $65, anyway it turned out not what i was planning it to, and i am stuck with it. if anyone was interested in trading for it, or buying it for like $50 then please email me. if you want to see the body (i cant copy it his page has a thing where it wont let you) then please email me, since his site is down. it looks really nice and everything, however its not bright enough for my tastes. he only used daytona (or normal bright yellow) and normal bright blue when i wanted flourecent yellow and candy blue, and since he already had painted it, i felt bad asking him to redo it. anyway its on a gmc seirra body. please email if you are interested, stormperson@hotmail.com

[n2o]

hey guys.. I leave for 3 days and look.. it took me 30min to brows through all of the posts and find the end.. ;)

hey hpi racer2.. I didnt get flooded out, but the water was VERY close. I think they said in the end, we had something like 28" of rain in 3 days and it did 1 billion worth of damage! I live close to a creek that is about 12' deep most of the time.. I rode my 4 wheeler back to the creek (as close as I could get) this weekend. And I'd say it's about 80-85' deep in the low spots...

BTW, hpi racer2.. What tracks to you race at?

Gokou, I run the slide carb that came on my MT12 and hate it.. ;) Thinking about fitting an OS carb to my Nova because this carb will run nice and hard at 230 one day. And the next day it runs like crap at 302.. :mad:

-n2o

[TRXboy]

illbreakit - i feel for ya, i have a day like that every day i run my truck....but what can i say..thats the price i pay... :D

[Turboduck01]

i was bored so i decided to post some pics of my FTGT : ) Enjoy, It aint all shiney, but it's straight from the track : )
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1721693&a=13235944&p=50198492

[ 06-11-2001: Message edited by: Turboduck01 ]

[stormperson]

could anyone suggest what rear tires are good for a very hard packed clay track, non blue groove though. also depending on when i run it will be slightly dusty, or slightly muddy, or just the hardpacked clay exposed.

the follow up:
what wheels are the most durable? i had used some of the losi ones with the lexan dishes and they broke after a little while. should i go with proline wheels, xxxt wheels, which ones?

thanks!

[Turboduck01]

Losi wheels can fit on the GT?

[atm92484]

I'm using the Proline wheels and they work pretty well. I haven't done anything extreme but they seem more rigid than the stock wheels. If I couldn't get the Proline ones I'd just stick with the stockers or get some RPM rims.

[nitrogo]

4572
posted 06-11-2001 05:46 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
i was wondering what car i shoud get i know the GT is a better handeling car but then i heard that the trx rustler has a better motor ans is stronger faster and more durable im planing on driving at the hemet track at least once a week and hop to get good enogh to race any in put about what to get would be great.by the way im 13 very good at workin on dirt bike motors and rebuilding them but i think im gonna need some help with my rc car maintnience so im sure ill be posting alot of messages and stupid quistions. :eek:

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Storm, a good tire for hard pack with dust it is the pro-line Holeshot T. When it gets wet or a bit muddy, go with some bow ties. This is what I run on my track which is hard pack, but not blue groove, and made of that dry red clay. It a really nice surface. Step Pins will also do a good job for the mud too. I like the pro-line rims, but I have started notice that the inserts go to dust sometimes. It never used to happen, but now it does. We've talked about that before though.

Nitrogo, I suggest you get a Team Built GT and put in your own engine. The Rustler isn't a race truck, and wasn't designed to be one. IMHO, I think the GT kicks the pants off te Rustler. I don't think Rustlers as durable or as good of quality as the GT. Put an OS CV in the truck, or maybe a CV-R, but that's a really high power engine. For some good tips, read through this entire thread. You'll know a ton about GT's when you're done. If you would like a RTR GT, then I still think that it has a better engine, and is on a different level from the Rustler. Watch out with the RTR chassis, since it's not Aluminum like the Team and FT versions. SteveP says it's Unobtanium, which isn't as strong as the other chassis.

[Skateboarder]

Im getting my team built gt this friday(I cant wait) and Ill be putting in a os .15 cvx so it should be fun to drive ;)
Im getting the pro-line sand paw tires too but they dont come with foam inserts and I was wondering if I should get some for the tires and if it will make a big difference.
Thanks

[TRXboy]

Skateboarder- do the Team built trucks come with the tires glued? if not take the foams out of that and use em in your sand paws.

[stormperson]

what foams should i get, if the stock pro-lines fall apart, which i have heard alot of recently?

also its pretty rough, since its a brand new track (you can still see the bobcat's treads) and even when it settles down 1/8's run on it, and what makes it tough is that there is a 25 foot long triple and lots of other big air. so i am just sticking with the stock set up unless someone has some suggestions.

should holeshots last me the season or will i have to replace them every race day or so?

thanks!

oh and losi rims will fit the gt, or at the the cvds, however the t3 wheels wont fit, i have no clue what size the cvd axils are though. and just a note, i have only tried this in the back, however, the fronts i am pretty sure have the same bearing sizes.

[Trucks]

with the rtr you get dog bones and the old biger size axles. you can drill out the center of the t3 wheels and make them work on the rtr.

the team and the ftgt's come with the smaller wheel axles like the t3s. If it was me I would replace those dogbones with cvds. this will require new bearing and new hub carriers also. (kind of expensive)

[RC10GTMark]

I just got my CV-R in today. I can see it has lots of compression, do you think my Ready Start Preassembled Starter Box will start it. I couldn't get it to before, but my batteries were fast charged, not tricled.

Does anyone use that motor/starter combination sucsessfully?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Storm, trinity has some foams that you might want to try out. The M3 compounds Holeshots are totally gone after about 1 month or so, but if you buy some M2's they should last close to the whole season if they are taken care of.

Mark, try heating the CV-R with a blow dryer or heat gun for like 20-30 seconds before you put the GT on the box. Just put the blow dryer right on top of the head, and turn on full heat.

[atm92484]

CVDs for the GT are 3/16" axles (same as T3 also) and the GT axles with dogbones and the old universals are 1/4" axles. I've had no problems getting the 3/16" wheels to fit but a few times I've noticed they had a snug fit. Maybe opening up the hole a little or something like that with a 3/16" drill bit would work.

[RC10GTMark]

I just cut the normal 12v connectors in my box and added wire and attached alligator clips, then hooked it to a car. Started right up. All I gotta do now is get the motor tuned and get some batteries for my remote. **** I hate batteries.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Rechargeable batteries were the first thing on my list when I got my truck running. I think kits for the transmitter are like 25 bucks. A rec. is another 25 bucks + charger. It's all money well spent though. Aren't car batteries 12V too? Has anyone tried hooking up a boat (real boat) battery to their starter box? I have two batt's and a charger for my boat, so then I could just buy a box, instead of the whole box/bat/charger/panel combo for like $120.

[RC10GTMark]

A car battery is 12v. I hooked it up to my start box and it worked fine.

[morfeeis]

does any one bes