Associated RC10GT Forum v3.0

[atm92484_3]

LMAO at TRX. Nice chassis. ;) Also whats the part number for that battery box you used?

[OmegaTrac]

I have the GT RTR. The lynx radio system is really not a good system for racing. I race every week now and want to have a really race ready radio system. I also need a radio that is lighweight . I was looking at either a JR XR2 or a JR XR3. How about a Lynx 3D?



Thanks for any Ideas!
-OmegaTrac

[Jace2000]

Omegatrack, if you run long heats and are concerned about fatigue due to controller weight, I recommend the Futaba 3PJ. You can get an optional wrist support for it and I heard that it helps when you're running for 30 min or more.
On the other hand, I believe the Hitec Lynx 3D is somewhat lighter than other radios and is fairly inexpensive.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Hah, nice simile, John.

Nick, the pic didn't work.

Mark O.

[digitizer]

After setting my dif per instructions.. I was told by the local guy at the LHS that the dif should be loosend an additional 1/2 turn.
locally we run a a hard red clay track. Parts can be quite slick.. parts can be dry and dusty but the slick part seems to be the problem area. On my first night out with my FT GT I was running decent on the tight areas and jumps.... but on the longer straight after a sweeper turn my back end gets real loose and fishtails when I put the power on resulting in slow runs in the typical fast part of the track kiling my lap times.

I know (full scale)car setups ok... no whiz but the dif is a little mystery to me. The LHS guy lost me a bit with the extra 1/2 turn as AE is quite explicit about it.

What does to tight of a dif do as well as a to loose dif?
As far as my loose condition... if the dif is ok i would just try to get more weight transfer to the rear with shocks or spring under power?

I think once I get a good basic setup for our local track I can adjust from there. (Clay is the only track i can get to quick for now.. pottery capital of the US lol)

thanks for any help!

[TRXboy]

Ugg i dont know, all i know it is all over, unbder the gas tank, in the engine mount, on the header.. nasty...GTman- it dosent work for some people, i dont know why.

As for me i had an intresting day, Finaly came to the conclushion that the GT is 10X's more fun to drive then the T-maxx(Instant Power, gatta love it) I decided to put my alumnum rear huibs back on, didnt race as much as i thought so the extra durability is a bonus.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Nick, the pick finally came in. I used to ge that sludge stuff too. I found out that the head gasket needed to be replaced, and that the head wasn't tightened down evenly. The engine blows out exhaust and then it mixes with dirt. Do you ever listen to Z100 up there? My uncle is one of their DJ's. His radio name is Coach Mike.

Mark O.

[atm92484_3]

Digitizer, I have no idea why the guy at your LHS said to do that. It may have helped in the short run but it will greatly increase the wear the diff experiences along with the heat build up cased from slipping. Personally I think that AE has been using this tranny long enough to know whether or not a setup works so I'd just leave it where they say to.

As for right now, open it up and see if something is melted or loose. If its not, I'd simply tighten the diff and see if its okay then. Also, when you reinstall the diff, make sure the side with the thrust bolt is on the passenger side of the GT. If its on the other side, then the torque from the engine will cause it to loosen over time.

To increase traction on a slick track, instead of loosening the diff, I'd loosen the slipper: after all thats what its meant for. By loosening the diff or the slipper, it would cause something in the drivetrain to slip, so not all of the power goes to the wheels and this helps prevent wheel spin. Loosening the slipper does the same thing except it won't contribute to a melted diff

If you do decide to loosen the diff, I wouldn't loosen it by any more than 1/8 of a turn. Like I said before I'd leave it stock, but 1/8 of a turn looser is still close enough so it won't slip too much.

jmo

[nolanr0413]

trx boy can you tell me more about the battery box. who makes it and the part number.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

nolanr, the box is from a TRX Stampede. I dunno the part number.

Mark :cool: .

[TRXboy]

Guy check this Post out on the old board, my post's show how to do it and part numbers

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35995&perpage=40&pagenumber=49

I did managed to break the box today:( not where you would thing tho, the hole mounts got ripped out, no biggi a little glue hter, and soder here would do the trick.....Back flips rule...

[nolanr0413]

Does anyone know if a cen slide carb will fit on a novarossi. I am talking .12's

[digitizer]

'preciate that.... yup the dif was shot all fixed now and ready to give another go

[kkd]

Yeh, TRXboy, you're sure right about the GT being a blast.... I put the CVR in it and its INSANE....LOL.... We put a sheet of plywood on my buddies tempo and were jumping it..... Crazy air.....

As for the T maxx (I had a .21 in it).... I sold it this weekend.. (Actually traded it for Cash and a brand new in the box OS RZ-V99 engine which is going to go into my two speed OFNA GTP)...... You're right, nothing like the GT..... (cept maybe my GTP... but thats another story..LOL....

sees ya'll.....

[ckpepper01]

I love my RC10GT!! It really hauls, and I didn't even trick it out yet!! I also Love my Ofna Pirate Monster. very reliable truck. as far as the T-Maxx, traxxas lost me when my Nitro Rustler gave me serious heartache. NEVER STARTED!

[ilovemygt]

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=rc10racer&album_id=33001&image_id=2&courtesy=1

[ilovemygt]

i think i finally found out why why i have problems with clutch bearings if you use rubber sealed bearing after a while the seal may get hot and fall off once it falls off the bearing dries out and explodes. i havent tried metal sealed bearings but i think the would slove the problem but they are twice as much though

[atm92484_3]

Love, I'm just using Duratrax bearings right now on the clutchbell since I don't feel like dropping $13 for 2 AE bearings. These Duratrax ones are pretty cheap and they seem to be holding up well since I haven't blown a bearing in a few months.

Duratrax 3/16"x5/16" flanged bearings (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXD085&P=7)

[AlterEgo]

Yeah, Ae sting you for the genuine bearings. Go to your local bearing shop, you'll get top quality for cheaper, I did.
JMO
:)
MrZ

[KC10Chief]

Hey Guys! Somebody at my track told me that there is a company that makes skis for the GT so you can run it on the snow. Apparently, the ski's go on the front, and you use paddle tires on the back. I've never seen this, but does anybody know what I'm talking about? If not, I'm going to make some ski's for the front and buy some of the paddle tires. I've made lots of ski's for my airplanes before, and they would be simple and cheap to make for the GT. I'd buy them if they were cheap though. If anybody wants instructions on making ski's, let me know! Matt

[atm92484_3]

I saw a GT with skis on the front in RCCA before but I'm pretty sure the guy made them. If you did decide to make skis, I don't think it would be too complicated. Just make them like you would the airplane ones. The only problem would be if they somehow flipped upside down when you went off a jump or something like that.

[wojo65]

KC10Chief:
Hey matt, i would like those instructions for the ski's. Do you guys have any tips for starting my truck in this weather? I cant seem to get mine started. thx my e-mail is wojo65@peoplepc.com

[ScottJ]

I just ordered an FTGT, O.S. CV-X .15. It will be here in a week and a half. I'm in Korea. The Air Force sent me here. This will give me something to do to make time go by. Reading everybody's posts has got me excited. It sounds like this truck is sweet. I can't wait to get it here and get it running. By the way, get used to seeing my name here. I'm sure I'll be back with some questions once it gets here. Keep rippin' it up!!!:p

[Jace2000]

ScottJ, welcome to Korea. I'm in Seoul Korea too... Maybe we could go hit the offroad circuit sometimes. It's only about 20 min from where you are. :)

[ScottJ]

I'm at Kunsan, where is this Off-Road Circuit? I would be very interested. :D Tell me more!!!!!

[Jace2000]

ScottJ, I'll send you a private message.

[KC10Chief]

I just got to thinking about those ski's, the ones I make for my airplane are made out of aircraft plywood. It would work for a GT too unless you were wanting to jump it off of stuff. The ski's could break on a hard impact like the trucks take. My airplanes landing gear doesn't take a beating like the GT does. I'm thinking get some aluminum about 1/8" thick, cut it, bend it and polish it up. You have to put a couple metal strips on the bottom that will dig into the snow to help steer. Probably about 3/16" thick and the length of the ski. Looking at my truck, I reaolize that this one is going to take a little thought, but I can figure it out. I'll draw up some plans and post them here in a week or two! Matt

[poopie]

skis are hard to make. i made a set for my nitro rustler before. just some bent metal and 2 shocks to keep the tips ups.

[Jwelch]

I just finished breaking in my CVR, and HOLY CRAP! What an engine! Once I get the clutch dialed, I'm sure it'll wheelie, lol. BTW, what needle settings are you CVR owners using?

[new2it]

Has anybody put a TTR EVO engine in a GT? I read that was the combination that won the national off road.

David Root:p

[Jwelch]

Billy Easton used the TTR EVO in the GT, and yes, he won. He probably put it in because he's sponsered by TTR. RCCA loved the EVO, and I've heard nothing but good about it. Sounds like it has a great carb too.

[atm92484_3]

Ya I've also heard good in RCCA about it. When they tested that new TTR touring car, they said that the needles and the hex wrench to adjust them was a great idea, not to mention the engine sounded like it rocked.

[TRXboy]

Not putting down the Engine, probly a great engine...but do you guys hoestly think that engine is the same engine you buy....

[Jwelch]

Of course not...no race engines are. It was probably made by Mr. Thundertiger himself! Just like Mr. Picco makes Brian's, and Mr. RB and Mr. O.S. make them for 1/8th scalers...DURRRRR...lol.

[TRXboy]

Uhh anybody know if RPM replaces Broken rims? I have 3 of there wheels(Not Maxx size, 2.2) sitting here with broke centers or sides....

[new2it]

I didn't buy the engine because it won the race, I wanted something different. I read all the ads, and I like the way it is built. CLAIMED .9 hp. I don't believe it, but it will have more power than my os cv and run cooler. Look at it here.http://www.quicktechhobby.com/prices/other/Eng-Parts/thunder_tiger_evo.htm . It has all the goodies. Knifed rod, HUGE crank with "turbo" end, Large cooling head, conposite carb.....

I have been running a Nitro Rustler, and am picking up my 5 month old used GT Saturday. $125 with os 12 cv in it, no radio. Can't wait. The CV is going in my son's Duratrax. We wore out his stock motor twice. Time for something better.

Has anyone put a TTR in their GT?

D. Root

[TycoTeamDriver1]

Its been a long ass time since i lasted posted 5 or 6 pages back.
My gt has been on shelf for 2 months now. I dont really trust it anymore. Because when ever I drive it, it gets stuck at WOT and i have to chase a 50 mph gt. also it has almost Seized up about 5 times now. Luckly for me. My gt has never been raced which kinda sucks because i never got to Race it before i retired it. :(
Well thats about it from here.

[atm92484_3]

Tyco, what would cause it to go out of control? If it was the linkage coming apart, I have a fix for it I'll post if you're interested.

[GTracer22]

Hey guys my stupid little throttle pivot clips keep coming off and it makes my car run WOT until it hits somethin, so does any 1 know what i can do to keep them on?:cool:

[ritchies rc10gt]

ive had nothing but problems with my linkage also.i seen a few pages back that someone used the ofna throttle linkage kit.i think it was ATM but not sure and im too lazy to look for it.i went and got one .its a hell of alot better than the stock linkage with that stupid little clip.i forget the part # for the one i got

[atm92484_3]

It was Gokou using the Ofna linkage kit.

For my linkage, all you need is one of the gold collars and a 3/16"x4-40 screw (same ones used to hold the spur gear on). Then you enlarge the hole in the servo horn so the screw fits through it. Next, carefully place a tiny drop of CA into the screw hole on the wheel collar and install the screw through the servo horn, and into the collar. Before the CA totally sets, make sure it pivots easily on the horn and that the linkage moves without resistance. After this, just sit back and let it set. Since I've done this I've never had the linkage break off. The only hard part is making sure you don't use too much CA since that would lock everything up.

[KC10Chief]

I use the OFNA throttle linkage kit as well. I had the same problem with that crappy little clip coming off and my truck going WOT. With the Ofna linkage, this won't happen anymore! Matt

[ilovemygt]

just had to bring it to the top here is a pic of my gt and my setup

http://hometown.aol.com/standard666sta/myhomepage/photo.html

[ritchies rc10gt]

i was just thinking and figured i waould see what you guys think.i was wondering if maybe we were to put a set of dirt tires lets say STEP PINS on the front as well as the rear if they would help make the truck turn better?i know it sounds silly but youll never know unless you ask or try it

[atm92484_3]

I doubt they would. If they did then wouldn't all the racing tire companies say to use rears all around as opposed to ribs in the front.

jmo

[phdeez]

Hey guys: quick question. But first: I ran my gt off-road for the 1st time today in a volleyball area (?) and it KICKS A$$!!!! Wow, I was really impressed at this thing. It is AWESOME!. Anyways: I have a set of gladiator tires mount to some losi yellow rims. The problem is this: one of the rims the inside is all stripped out (bought it used: thx guy) now I picked up a set of the appropiate rims for my new beast, but I can't figure out how to REMOVE the tire from the rim. I don't care about the rims themselves, just want to get the tire off. Now, with my OB4 [on-road TC] I removed the tires from the rims by simply leaving it in acetone over night, since I really didn't care about the tire, but in this case, its the opposite. I was thinking of doing that, but from what I recall the rubber was toast the next morning. Any ideas for this? Other than buying a new set of tires?

[Jwelch]

Boil them in water for 20 minutes, and they should come off with a tug or two. Remember to flip them around a little while they're boiling.

[phdeez]

So boiling them will not impact the structural integrity of the tires?

[KC10Chief]

Richies, we had a big race here last weekend, and the guy that won had step pins on the front and back. Looked to me like he was cornering very well! I thought about trying it out myself! Matt

[ritchies rc10gt]

i figured that it might corner better if it had the pins digging into the ground instead of the ribs.i have some extra rims and tires and i think i may try it to see what happens

[RC Freak]

almost every one at my track uses steps front and rear, so i dicided to try it and boy am i glad i did. it corners great no matter how fast i am going. so yes it does hook up better

[poopie]

it depends what tipe of surface. i have heard pin type tires in the front hook up very well on clay and hard surfaces. but in the loose dirt the proline Edge ribbed tires hook up really good.

[TRXboy]

Hey guys, how does a 3mm thick 7075 chassis sound? :D

[atm92484_3]

Ok guys I found out tonight why I drive a GT. At the end of my driveway, it drops off down this hill. Its about a 10 foot change in height: perfect to go off of at full speed with the GT. :D At the bottom, theres this split rail fence but it isn't for atleast 50 feet. I figured I'd be okay and I wouldn't have to worry about hitting it. Boy was I wrong: on my very first jump I slammed into the fence while I was still in the air and doing about 40 mph. It was the funniest thing I've seen and I thought I totally messed the GT up. As soon as the GT settled down from the flips and 360s, it was back off and running. Oh how I love this truck: no damage at all.

If I got one of those portable BMX jumps I bet I could clear it....

[crawfordna]

Hey guys, just getting started on the associated kit, received my factory team GT today. What is the approximate build time on one of these models for a moderate to expert R/C modeler? I'm wondering if I can get it done by next Saturday, which is the last day of racing for the season here in Iowa.

Thanks!

[atm92484_3]

I built my GT in about 8 hours but I was also familar with the tranny and how it was set up. Just take your time, and work on it for a few hours everyday and make sure its set up right. Put in 3 hours a day for the rest of this week and you should be ready for race day.

[mississippi]

ordered my factory team Gt today from towerhobbies. heres a few things i got with it:

CV-R with slide carb
Ofna Thtrottle Linkage
MIP 4n1 Clutch
Ofna presion hex drivers
ofna starter box with 12V battery
rpm camber gauge
ofna car stand

howd i do??

any building tips? problems i should expect?

thanks

[KC10Chief]

When I got my FTGT, I built it in one evening. Okay, I stayed up until 4am, but it took me about 10 hours. I was doing other stuff too. Before that, the last car I put together was an Associated RC10 Worlds car about 7 years ago. But I have lots of RC experience with my airplanes too. Anybody with no experience can put one together in a couple evenings. The instructions are great. There are a couple minor errors in the instructions, but they will be very obvious to you. Matt

[KC10Chief]

I just bought an Airtronics 94358 servo for my FTGT. I upgraded from a standard piece of junk JR servo. This new servo is incredible! It has 200 oz of torque which is overkill for a GT, and it is REALLY fast. The wheels will turn from full right to full left in .09 seconds! I took it out to the track tonight and what a difference! It drives much better it seems like! There is absolutely no play at all in this servo unlike my old JR. I usually clean house at my local track, but some of the turns kick my butt. Not this weekend though! Only problem with this servo is it cost me 115 bones. Hopefully it will be well worth it! I've noticed that the only thing I seem to spend money on is my GT anyways. Matt

[Gokou]

KC10-- I love my 94358 for steering. Glad to hear you like yours! Wait until you get an ultra-fast throttle servo too.... it's another huge improvement. When I went from a JR Z250 (.15s if you're lucky) to a 94357 (.07s) for throttle it seemed like an entirely different truck. Full throttle to full brake as fast as you can move your finger-- no more lag! You can go into corners much later and not worry about your brakes playing catch up with your finger. People who say fast throttle servos aren't a big deal haven't driven a gasser with a fast throttle servo ;) Unfortunately the fast throttle servo won't smooth out a jittery trigger finger...

[Trucks]

hi guys, can I ask a question?

what would make a motor not idle, its new so It's not wore out. It was running great sunday when I got to the track, but after running one tank of fuel thru it wouldn't idle after that, I could set the Idle screw higher but if you hit the break it would die. :confused:

[TRXboy]

Gokou- drop me a line Pitmonk@optonline.net

[KC10Chief]

Trucks, is this a brand new engine? If so, did you break it in? Check your clutch bell bearings. If one is starting to fail, it can kill your engine at idle. You may also try richening up your low end. Set the idle screw accordingly. Good luck! Matt

[KIPPY]

hi I am getting a factory team gt and I was wonderin what the stock spur gear and clutch teeth are thanks:rolleyes: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[KIPPY]

wii the robinsin racing gears rub the rear a arm mounts:confused:

[atm92484_3]

The GT comes stock with a 15t clutchbell and a 66t spur gear.

Trucks, how does it die if you set the idle higher? Was there a dramatic temperature change from day to day?

[KIPPY]

heres what i am getting

1. rc10gt factory team
2. OS cvr
3. JR XR2
4.ofna starter box the one with two motors
5. 2 quarts odonnel 20%
6. fuel bottle 500cc
7. mip diff rebuild
8 mip thrust re build
9. mip 4n1 clutch
10. mip light flywheel
11. rpm a arm mounts
12 ofna linkage kit
13. rpm heavy duty rod ends
14. rr spur gear and clutch bell
15 great planes glow ignighter
16 extra #8 glow plug
any suggestions whats bad and good :) :confused:

[wojo65]

I wouldnt go with the mip diff rebuild mip thrust re build untill you actully need it like you burn gears or something, and i would go with 1 quart at a time you never know how long it will take to burn gas.

[KIPPY]

thaks wojo for the tips ive never built a kit before but i have toons of tools a friend that has built kits before and my dad said he would help me do i have enough experince:confused:

[atm92484_3]

Have you ordered the truck and all this stuff yet? If not I'd reccomend laying off on all the MIP and RPM stuff. Run the FT GT stock and see how you like it, then upgrade. As it is, the stock flywheel is pretty light and I've never had any durability or wear issues with the stock parts.

Of all the parts from MIP and RPM you listed there, I'd only get the 4 n 1 clutch.

jmo

[KIPPY]

thanks but i need that stuff ive got i race to win verse my friend he has his dads old nitro rustler that had a traxxas sponsership in 1992 it has a bored and ported pro15 it hauls *** :cool:

[Railman]

Kippy, I'd listen to Wojo, & atm. They're right about what's important. Save your money for maintainance items, & keep most of it stock. Save your money for a good FM radio, & steering servo. However, I would recomend the RPM rear bulkhead & 4 in 1 clutch though. As far as the RPM cups, I'd use the stockers everywhere except for the steering arm, & rear camber rod. I'd use "Rocket City" captured ends on those. Just my $.02
Joe

[Gokou]

I also strongly recommend the Robinson machined spur gear (the plastic one, not the metal one). All the stock AE gears I've used have runout and out-of-roundness issues. Plus, the Robinson gears run quieter and last about twice as long. Same goes for their clutchbells-- they last much longer, but you don't need that right away.

If I was getting a new truck, I would immediately get:

MIP 4-n-1 Clutch
Ofna throttle linkage
RRP spur gear
RPM or HG rear bulkhead

Railman is right-- hold off on the other items until you get a good radio and good servos; they are more important than the other hop-ups you want.

Nick-- I tried to PM you. My email server currently isn't responding and you have private messages disabled... :( Turn them on and PM me.

[Railman]

Goku, Good to see you frequent the board again. :D
I could be wrong but, didn't Robinson start start supplying the clutch bells for the GT kits a few years ago? Aren't they the ones with the groove cut near the cutch side? Seems like I read that somewhere.
Joe

[ScottJ]

I think that I read every word that is posted on this web site. I ordered the Factory Team GT 3 weeks ago. I'm stationed in korea and can't wait for it to get here. Keep putting more and more messages on here so that I have something to keep me busy until my stuff gets here. Thanks to everyone on this site.
AE till I die!!!!:D

[gtwolfpack]

Hello, ScottJ..Good to see another GT owner in Korea.. From your last post, I understand you are stationed in the city of Kunsan(right?)... When you have some time, why don't you come over to a local offroad track in Panwoul which is one of the small cities around Seoul? Drop me a line (redalert@kebi.com) before you do. Jace, I and dozens of 2wd gas truckers run in the track at least once a month and we are going to join local races fairly on a regular basis...:D

[M 5]

Any HongKong RC10GT racer here?:D

I have a stock RC10GT FT, I want to get some upgrades but can't get anything here...:(

Do you guys like the trick out 10GT in November issue of RCCA??

[Trucks]

thanks guys, I tried riching the bottom at the track last week, there was no change. I did notice that the cluch bell seemed to have alot of slack in it, like the bearing might be going bad, but it is also new with the motor. maybe I just got a bad one.

[Railman]

It's hard to tell from here, but it sounds like the glow plug may be getting snuffed out. That can happen with a cold plug on an off road car fairly easily, if the needles aren't just right. What engine, fuel, & glow plug are you using? How many turns out are you on the top, & bottom needles? I would have been inclined to lean the bottom to keep it from snuffing out the plug. Does die even when it's been warmed up? When an engine is tuned right, they still won't run right when cold. I know it sounds strange, but I have had worn out gas tanks do that. But it doesn't sound like yours is that old.Let us know some more info so we can help.
Joe

[KIPPY]

he guys just got back from school today we had torandoes in are county so i had to sit in the hall for about an hour bummer any way what do you think of the starter box i chose it said it had two 550h motors in what do you think:eek: :eek:

[KIPPY]

also got some other bad news when my friend came back from the nurse i was going to try to talk him into a team gt instead of a t maxx but he was not in the mood the nurse had just told him that his finger was broke:( :(

[GTracer22]

I havent been to skool in the last two days because i hurt my back skateboarding. :D

[KC10Chief]

Trucks, what do you mean the clutchbell has slack in it? If it will wobble even the slightest little bit on the clutch nut shaft, then that is your problem. A bad bearing will kill your engine every time at idle especially when you hit the brake. Also, try running a MC-59 glow plug. Made my Megatech I think. Good luck! Matt

[KC10Chief]

Hey, I've noticed a lot of guys on here stationed in Korea. I volunteered to go to Korea on a short tour anytime they want to send me. That's a year long I think. Do they race down there a lot like every weekend, or just once a month or what? Is it just other GI's that race, or do the locals race too? Thanks for any info! Matt

[KIPPY]

hey atm what do you think about the starter box i chose it says it has two 550h motors will it have enough power to turn over a new cvr:eek:

[KIPPY]

hey guys you allready probbly saw my list is there any thig i dont have on there that you would get:cool:

[ScottJ]

As KC10Chief said there are quite a few people on here who are in Korea. I just wish that I had track down here in the south. If I get the chance I will come up on a three day weekend. It just depends on how things go. I am still waiting on my kit to get here. It should be in by Monday. Then I can get going. We have a little place here on base that a few people go to. I just wish there were more people and a better place to race. I will shoot you an E-mail when I see an opportunity to come up that way. Take care and good luck at the races. Let me know how you guys do.

[atm92484_3]

Kippy, thats the same starter box I'm using with my CV-R. I'm using a single gel cell 12v battery and I have to charge it maybe 3 times a year. When the battery is freshly charged it can handle the CV-R but when the engine is new, expect to have to loosen the glow plug a little to get the engine started; atleast I did but breaking it in in 30 degree weather probably didn't help either. Now that my CV-R is broken in, it can easily turn the CV-R over on a half charged battery.

The other thing you might want to consider doing is getting a file or a Dremel and angling the edges of the chassis around the hole for the flywheel. Before I did this, the chassis would shave the flywheel while starting the engine. This reduced power and increased wear on the flywheel. Since I did this though, the starter has a much easier time starting the engine, not to mention the battery lasts a lot longer.

[KIPPY]

thanks atm but i will be using two 1500 packs

[AlterEgo]

Nice tip atm, i have a similar problem using my hand held starter, there's not much room there.
I'll give that some though.
Thanks
MrZ

[atm92484_3]

Kippy, I'd STRONGLY reccomend looking into getting a 12v and a charger. It will be no more than $50 for the two (and thats a high estimate) and they will last about 50x longer than two NiCd packs.

jmo

[ScottJ]

Any military people might be able to help me with this one. How much of pain would it be to get a track built on base? Nothing too big and fancy. Just something where we could get together and race. I know that here at Kunsan we have some empty spaces. Does anyone know who I would contact to get something like that started? If I found some interested people that would be something to persue. Since I don't have a track off base down in the south. Let me know what you think.:D

[gtwolfpack]

I am a local Korean and races are mostly organized by distributors of import kits or trade association of LHS owners and those races are joined by around 50-60 participants on average I think... But, I have just started an offroad race organized purely by amature weekend racers. Our race is mostly held in a track in the city of Panwoul near Seoul, but, there is one more track being finishined in the city of Kimpo also near Seoul by a local RC manufacture. I am not sure whether the track will be avaiable to the public, though...Anyway, in Panwoul, we have only gas classes in our race, 1/10 gas stadium truck, gas monster and 1/8 gas buggy. Regular race is once a month, but, we do lots of practice run on weekends coming in between. ScottJ, it is fairly simple to make an offroad track as long as you have empty lot (about 50mX30m). You just lay down water hose in the lot as you want to make a course and nail the hose down to the ground. For jump, make one out of plywood or some wood plate. For course layout, I think you can copy some of the existing circuits or make an original one yourself...

[ScottJ]

I guess I was wondering about the Military system and who I would have to go through to get one put on base. I leave in April but I would still like to see it because I think it would give people something good to do in the off-duty hours. Any military people familiar with things like this let me know. My E-Mail is scottjones2013@*******.com I would love to see this happen.:cool:

[KIPPY]

heres the deal give me the price on a 12v and from tower also what do you think of the jr xr2

[KC10Chief]

Scott, you might want to start at base ops. Or even ask your supervisor or first shirt about who you need to talk to to get a track started on base. Usually, they are cooperative when it comes to something that you can do for free that will boost morale. At Lakehurst, NJ, they did this for an RC airplane field. Surely they'd let you make a track. If anything, they would let you use a parking lot on the weekends or something. Get other people that are wanting to do it too to help out. If I come to Korea, I will be all over it as soon as I get settled in! My GT will DEFINATELY be coming with me when I go. When I was in the United Arab Emirates last year, I brought a radio controlled airplane with me. It was kind of bulky and I had to carry it on, but being an aircraft mechanic on the plane, they let me get away with it. At least I can put my GT in a box. Is there a hobby shop there in Korea where you can get parts? I know how it is when you're overseas deployed or stationed somewhere that sucks. You're a LOT more willing to spend your money on something to keep you entertained. I'm glad I had my plane in UAE or I would have been bored out of my skull. Anyways, your best bet is to start with your first shirt I would think. They usually know where to go and who to talk to for jus about anything. Good luck! Matt

[ScottJ]

Thanks Matt.
I am going over to talk to the shirt soon. We have one hobby store down here where I am at. The gentleman who runs it knows that he is the only one. You can tell by his prices. He has a little bit of everything. Heli's cars trucks planes. A few spare parts. I would say the best thing that you could do is stock up on the essentials before you come over. He does sell fuel. It's heli fuel, 16% oil. Makes 'um smoke but it's o.k. Parts for trucks are pretty limited. Horizon Hobbies and Tower Hobbies have been my best friends. I have them send my stuff to a family member who then mails them to me. Takes a little bit but that's just part of being over here. Take care and I'll talk to you soon. I'll let you know how things turn out with the shirt.:D

[KIPPY]

hey atm will the hobbico torqmaster lc 7 amp battery and the hobbicotower hobbies 12 volt ac charger work with the ofna starter box hey were up to 900 posts

[atm92484_3]

Yup that battery will work just fine but I'm not too sure on the charger. I'm using an identical setup to this one below except its from Hangar 9.

I'm pretty sure this is the battery you are talking about http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXL370&P=7 (BTW its the one on the right in the pic), and heres the charger http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXJC38&P=M (or you'll need something like this).

[Railman]

Trucks, In referance to what Atm said, the MC59 glow plug is made by McCoy, & also sold by Dynamite. It's very popular with .12 engines, especially for off road. Depending on what length plug your engine takes, you may have to use two washers on it as it is a long reach plug.
Joe

[atm92484_3]

Another plug you can consider is the O.S. A3. It too is a hot plug. In every engine I've ran one in, I've never had trouble. In fact, I was running #8s in my 46 FX and 91 FX airplane engines and they were both running really bad (same symptoms as you are having). Then I switched to A3s in both of them and the problems ended.

I'm not famaliar with the MC59s and their length, but I do know that the A3s are a standard plug and you don't have to worry about shimming it and all.

[Trucks]

thanks guys,
I did change the plug, thinking that it might be fouled. The owner of the track gave me a mugen plug (i don't remember what is was ). I was pretty sure that it would work sence the motor I running is the mt12.

the cluthbell had about an eight of an inch slack in it if you tried to move it back and fourth. After hearing it die so many times most of the time I though I heard some kind of funny noise before it died like something scraping.:(

[Railman]

I run an MC59 in my MT12. It works great. It's the same length as the stock plug. The stock plug was way too cold for me to run off road. On road may work better with a colder plug, because as a rule they keep the revs up more, & hence build more heat.
As far as the clutch goes, if it has 1/8" play, somethings wrong. Are both bearings in, & are they smooth? Does the clutchbell touch the flywheel? Do you have the shoes installed in the trailing fashion?
Joe

[KIPPY]

hey atm give me a couple good controllers under $115 also tell me the best out of the list please

[KIPPY]

hey guys changed my list heres the controller i want to get hitec lynx fm with 1 hs300bb servo and a hitech hs645mg high tourque servo dropped mip diff and thrust rebuild and rpm ball ends and a arm mounts did i do better ;)

[TycoTeamDriver1]

The radio should be pretty good kippy. My brother has one for his nrs4 and its good. are you getting the duel conversion one? if yes then thats even better. I would post a link but towerhobbies.com prohibites us to do that. and also i think that is spaming???:confused:

[ScottJ]

I had that radio when I was racing my RC10T3. That radio worked very well and the servos aren't too bad either. I don't remember ever having a problem with it. It should be a good reliable radio for you. Good Luck.:p

[KIPPY]

thanks guys lets keep posting i hope any day now me and my dad will order my gt i have to order by oct 30 for my cupons to work i got i troulble so i dont know if we will order it

[ScottJ]

I should be recieving my kit in a couple of days and was wondering if you guys would help me out. I am looking for ideas for paint jobs. I would love to see as many pictures of your GTs as possible. I promise to not steal your designs. I just need to see some to get my mind rolling. Thanks! and remember don't sniff too many fumes...:p

[KC10Chief]

I don't know if you guys saw the pictures in the general RC forum of my T-Maxx that looks like the van from the movie "Dumb and Dumber", but I'm going to take one of my old GT bodies and cover it with fur too and make it look like a dog. I'll race it this weekend and take a bunch of pictures. I'm just about done with it. Should be ready to go tomorrow afternoon! Should have the pics up by Monday! Matt

[KIPPY]

hey scott i dont mind if you take my idea heres what i am doing candy blue with silver flames sound cool

[KC10Chief]

Hey Scott, you don't have to get ideas just from GT bodies, you can get them from other car bodies as well. I have a paintjob on my GT and I got the idea from HauntedMyst who is on this board. He races a lot of road cars. Go to the painting and bodies forum and there's a thread under there for coolest paintjob contest. There's lots of pics there. I did one that has yellow highlights, but is mostly black and blue with lightning bolts. I'll get pics up here in a few days. Matt

[KC10Chief]

By the way, I don't think most people will mind if you copy a design. I don't care if you copy anything I do. I copy most of my stuff myself anyways. If you don't have an airbrush, an easy paintjob to do is the American flag! I've done several GT bodies like this. I do the hood and front of the body with blue and white stars. Then I make red and white stripes going to the back. It's simple. You can do it with cans and tape. Good luck on whatever you decide! Matt

[ScottJ]

I like the "Dumb and Dumber" Idea. That sounds like it would be a riot to see. Can't wait to see those pics. Thanks for the help.
Scott:p

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres one that i did.i dont have any pics of it though.its fairly easy to do.you can do it with 3 or 4 colors if you want but the more colors the harder it is to do.i used metalic light blue and metalic burgandy.what you do is paint the front half of your body with the lighter color and dust a little bit of it into the back of it then let it dry.when that color is dry and you have enough paint on it to satisfy you paint the back half and dust a little of that color into the front and let that dry.when its dry and you have enogh paint on it to cover the body back cover that with a bright white so you cant see through the paint as usual.when its done you get the color changing effect in the middle of the body.it really looks cool

[nitro_Code]

:D I just bought my truck yesterday, and after the first two break-in tanks so far, I'd have to say I think I made a wise purchase. This truck rocks and I haven't even begun to see the full capacity of it!!! I also own a T-Maxx, so I do have a little experience with nitro, but I'll be reading through the past posts here and probably coming back for help and advice.

[crawfordna]

Here's the deal. I'm putting my Factory Team GT together, the MIP CVD's and rear camber links are all ready to go in. I put the CVD Dogbone in to the outdrives, hook up the camber link, and I now have absolutely no rear suspension. The a-arm (on both sides) won't move one bit because the dogbone is shoved in to the outdrive so far that it can't even pivot up or down. The camber links are the identical length in the manual, and the ball joints are located in the proper spots as well. The only thing I can think of is that the kit came with the wrong dogbones (too long). I'm absolutely positive that the axles are set up properly, etc (I've done it before on an older truck) Any other ideas? I wish I had my old truck to compare dogbone lengths... that's really the only thing I can think of that may be wrong. Thanks for any info.

[atm92484_3]

That doesn't sound right. Instead of going by the lenghts in the manual, did you eyeball it up to see if it looked normal (as in not too much camber)?

Dunno if this will help, but heres my paint job:

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/013/Zm/OG/qT/Ah70353.jpg

All I did was spraypaint each section (from a can) carefully, then do the next section. When I was painting the front section, I covered the rest of the truck up with a paper towel, but had it so some of the mist could still make it under. That helped to achieve the look.

[KIPPY]

hey guys just tried oriding my gt five minutes ago but tower was closed hey your car looks cool bummer i cant order my gt anyway i still have time yo order it keep posting

[atm92484_3]

Well guys I just rebuilt my CVDs today for the first time in 2 years. I hate to say this, but they were probably good for another 2 years. There was some play in them but it was nothing major. Man I love these things. When assembled properly, they rock. BTW I haven't been taking it easy on the GT either.

[mississippi]

atm

that is the exact paintjob i was planning to do on my brand new GT. even the tinted windows.:D hope you dont mind if i do it anyway:)

[GTracer22]

I had my LHS paint my body Metalic Blue with flames that start out orange ang fade into a neon yellow. Ill post some pics as soon as i can get some.:D

[atm92484_3]

Hey, go ahead mississippi.

[mississippi]

thanks atm. i'll try and make it a lil' different so it wont be exactly the same.

BTW, anyone try running their antenna out the back window so it wont rip off when they flip?:rolleyes:

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

Hey
I was looking at my gt and on the tank where fule line would plug in ( i guese its called a nipple) well it rotats is that normal? if not is there any way to fix it with out buying a new tank.
thanks

[GTracer22]

The nipple (hehe) should be threaded so just screw it in and it should tighten and you might wanna try putting a little super glue on the threads so it wont loosen up again.:cool:

[KIPPY]

hey guys do the stock associated spur and clutch bell strip easy also is there much difference between the mip light flywheel and the associated stock

[KIPPY]

hey i know this sounds stupid but is tower open on saturday

[atm92484_3]

Kippy, the stock clutchbell never wears out, but the stock gears may strip if the mesh is set imporperly. The new chassis though, and its rigidness, has greatly reduced this though, compared to the tub chassis. If I were you though, I'd just go and get a few Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gears when you gear a chance. I've had the same one on my GT for the past year (since I've upgraded my truck from the tub chassis) and its yet to strip. RRP clutchbells are also nice but they cost a little more than the AE ones.

Also, I'd just stick with the AE flywheel. Lightweight flywheels are nice, but it makes it much harder to set the idle since there isn't as much momentum stored in the flywheel. I'd just stay stock until you have a reason not to.

Tower isn't opened on the weekend but you can still place orders and they will just be processed Monday.

jmo

[KIPPY]

hey guys i need your help bad i mean really bad today me and my dad went to the hobby shop i can not make up my mind between the team losi xxxnt ready to race and team associated factory team gt on both i will be spending close to $700 i need pros and cons of each vechicle please give me honest advice i want every body to post also when i get one of the two my dad said no upgrades and i mean no not even in a year i can only buy some thing if its broke because with my new car i will have $1,500 in rc and my dad says thats to much for a toy so please i need everybodys help :confused: :( :(

[atm92484_3]

I'd still go with the FT GT. The XXXNT is a nice truck, and I'd be more than happy to drive it, but the GT has proven its self over and over. Plus it won't be discontinued like the XXXNT; instead it will be upgraded, but that time is still atleast 2 years away. Plus with the FT GT, you have all the hop-ups and you build it so you know how it goes together.

[OmegaTrac]

Yo.
I am running the GT RT. I have just broken my stock rear bulkhead. Now I am confused on what to do and what replacement part to get. Should I get the RPM Rear Bulkhead made of Nylon or the HG Rear Bulkhead made of T6 Alluminum?
Any Ideas?

[Railman]

Go with the RPM. We've broken many stock bulkheads, but never an RPM. The aluminum ones look pretty, but are very expensive. My son bought an HG for his new FTGT & after abot 5 races the ballstud snapped off inside, & we still haven't figured out how to get it out without drilling it out. At about $6 or $7 Rpm or $30 for the aluminum ones, it's a no brainer for me. In my opinion it's the best RPM part for the GT.
Joe

[OmegaTrac]

Thanks Man!
I think i will go with the RPM Bulkhead.
-Chris

[OmegaTrac]

Yo again,
Sorry If I'm asking too many questions, but my stock GT RTR body is broken in the back. Since this is my first gas truck that I race should I get a new body? Or just wait until this body is completely busted?


Since I'm a newbie racer I dont know if it would be worth it to get a new body especially when you flip often :rolleyes:

--Chris

[Railman]

Just buy a tube of "SHOE GOO" or something similar. Just put 2 applications (15->30 minutes between apps.) on the crack the night before & it'll usually hold for a race or two. If you use it befor the crack gets bad, the body will last a lot longer.
Joe

[KIPPY]

hey guys keep answering my question i have till wednes day to decide

[KIPPY]

hey guys no need to worry about me getting a xxxnt rtr cause i just ordered my gt from tower BOOOOOOOOO YA ;) :) ;) :) :cool:

[Jwelch]

Awwww, crap, this sucks. I was gunning my GT today, when it got a little wheelspin in grass, and the car chucked the CVD pin. But, thats not the end of it. While the CVD pin was working its way out it must have smacked the A-arm, shredding the ALLOY STEEL dogbone casing. THIS SUCKS!!!!

[wojo65]

i had a good day with my gt today had alil fun with it went jumping, but i also created a sweet custom drag car, it has a custom chassis and motor mount, and fullsize electronics, it looks really nice i will show some pics soon, i have 4 cars to my rc collection now :D

[digitizer]

With the rear shock , springs, and pre-loads set per the manual, the drive shafts are considerably low in the middle, to get them level I have to add about 1/2 inch of pre-load to the rear.Now its going over the jumps a little nose down and I have to add about 1/4 in pre-load to the front. Overall the suspension feels a little hard now. I am trying to get a good "stock" set up before I start adjusting to much.
For a good starting point do I leave the set-up as described in the manual (spring and pre-load quantity), or do I go for level drives in the back.
Thanks... 2 races now and loving it!

[ritchies rc10gt]

as far as ride hieght is concerned the dogbones/cvds should be level and the front arms should be level with the front kickup.

i have mine set up so the rear is higher than the front.i am using silver springs on the front and blue springs in the rear.it seems to jump and land good with this setup.but for racing i use the same setup except i use blue springs all around

[digitizer]

Thanks for that speedy reply Ritchie

[ritchies rc10gt]

no problem

[crawfordna]

Hey guys, I installed my MIP 4-n-1 clutch (or tried to) this weekend. I had to cut down the fly wheel pins by about a 1/16 of an inch for the MIP clutch to fit OK. It's on the #2 setting. I put it in, put the bell housing on, then put the bearing on the outside of the housing and it spins perfectly. I then proceed to put the E-clip on, and it will no longer spin freely, like the e-clip is stopping the bearing from spinning or something. Any ideas how to fix this problem?

Thanks!

[atm92484_3]

Try taking the flywheel totally off and tapping the pins with a hammer. Theres about 1/16" of room back there, and if you do this lightly, it should move the pins back far enough. I'm pretty sure you were supposed to do this to begin with rather than cutting them but it doesn't really matter. Anyways, I'd have to say that the pins are rubbing on the inside of the clutchbell and when you put the clip on, thats enough to push them back and cause it to bind.

[crawfordna]

Thanks for the reply. I have already pounded them down with a hammer, they are flush with the rear of the flywheel now. I also chopped them down a little bit, and the MIP clutch sits nicely against the flywheel with no space in between. It's just for some reason that stupid e-clip binds it up.

(The pins are cut down flush to about 1/32" lower than the MIP clutch holes that the pins fit in to, so I know it's not that...).

I've also tried about five different clutch e-clips...

the stock clutch pads work fine though... weird.

BTW -- this is also a pull start, if that makes any difference.. I know the flywheel is slightly different.

--Ncik

[AlterEgo]

Hi Guys,
Who runs these and what kind of effect do they have.
I run a RB C12 with slide carb and it's pretty touchy. I'm looking at trying to tame it down until i get the hang on 2wd. I had some problems at the track on Sunday and i think it'd be easier to handle if it wasn't so punchy.
Thanks
:)
MrZ

ps. got any part #'s ?

[atm92484_3]

For the carb restrictors, AE makes 3 different sizes. They are 7712 for .19" restrictor, 7713 for .18" restrictor, and 7714 for .17" restrictor. Just remember you may have to lean the engine a little bit since there will be less air entering the carb.

good luck

[Gokou]

AlterEgo, you can also play with exponential and speed settings on your radio (if you have them) to help take the punch out of a slide carb motor. Slide carb motors really do make an already hard to control platform (2wd off road) even harder to control :D I was going to switch to a slide carb but then I realized I didn't need one, since I already wheelie all over the place with a rotary carb.

[AlterEgo]

Thanks guys,
These are to suit OS carbs though, i doubt if they would fit the larger dia RB/Nova style carb.
Just a thought, imagine if you take the cap off your MotorSavers filter, take out all the foams, if you then placed a round piece of plastic to fit in the bottom of the filter under the foams, and then made a smaller hole to suit.
Would this be in effect the same thing?
And if so, you could then make several pieces with varying holes to test and see what the effect was?
Can anyone see anything wrong with this plan?
It's cheap & simple.
:)
MrZ

[atm92484_3]

AE (aka Mr. Z), that sounds like it would work. I'm not famaliar with Motorsavers, but as long as it wouldn't create an airleak then it should be just fine.

[Railman]

Alterego, Try hooking the linkage up to a point farther to the rear on the servo horn, so that the servo has to rotate more for the carb slide to open. It will knock off a lot of the punchieness, & give a negative curve to the throttle response. Imagine the amount the piston moves verses the crank rotation at the top of the piston stroke, vs at the middle of the piston stroke. At th middle the piston travels 1/1 to the crank travel. At the top the crank travels a lot as the piston travels little. What you need for your throttle setup is similar to the top of the piston stroke. I hope this makes sense, if not let me know & I'll try again.
Joe

[Railman]

I almost forgot, if you limit the cross sectional area before the venturie of the carb it will merely act like a choke & force it to draw more fuel in. The reduction in cross sectional area needs to be right at the carb venturie (actually part of it) to have the proper effect. Before it won't give the proper result your looking for.
Joe

[AlterEgo]

Thanks for the advice,
I think i'll try to move my linkage back a bit, i understand what you mean, it's worth a try.
Thanks
:)
MrZ

[KIPPY]

hey guys when i get my gt on dec.25 hehe the next day i may start building i have never built akit before so whats going to be the hardest step giv me advice to hey if your looking for more low end touque heres a tip i use on my traxxas cars tace a funnel cut it so it will fit in the side of your airfilter also make shure it clears the body


post soon

[ritchies rc10gt]

i dont know why this is happening but whenever i run my GT i either break or bend the tubes or the screws.the other day i ran it and cartwheeled it about 15 times at full throttle.i bent the tubes so bad i couldnt get the screws out of the bulk head and broke the screws that hold them to the metal braces on the chassis.in that crash i also broke a front body post and bent a lower shock screw on the front.never mind the dog bites on the wheels.has any of you had this problem with the tubes?or any idea why they keep bending and breaking?could it be time for a new chassis?

[atm92484_3]

In the time I've been driving a GT or a NDS (car version of the GT), I've only bent one set of nosebrace tubes but that was from a head-on collision at full speed with a brick mailbox. If you've been bending the same chassis back into shape after its been bent, then it may be a good idea for you to replace it. Other than that, stop crashing. :D

[ritchies rc10gt]

ive never bent back straight cuz everytime i replace the tubes they line right back up perfectly.now heres a strange problem i have with my engine.its an ofna factory force 15s pro.i was just looking at it while it was running and i notice bubble comming up from betweem the sleeve and the blockim going to take it apart now to see if something is screwed up on it cuz it ran under my car and hit the glasspack and bent a couple of fins and broke one fin on the heatsink but i didnt think anything else got hurt but maybe i cracked the block,i hope not.

[Jekyll33]

I bought a rc10gt rtr 2 weeks ago from Tower Hobbies. The exhaust manifold came loose while I was driving it. So I replaced the exhaust gasket and tightened the screws and put thread lock on them. The next time I ran the car it seized up [the piston]. So I took it apart and found that the bottom of the piston rod was jammed up against the bottom of the crankshaft!! Can you tell me of any way this could've happened considering that its such a new car and I always ran it rich?

[KIPPY]

hey guys i am out on a limb here so please answer my question

[ilovemygt]

it sounds like you may have gotten some dirt in to the engine when the header can loose did you notice any dirt when you took it apart

[atm92484_3]

Kippy, the GT is an easy truck to build. Just follow the instructions, use threadlock on screws that thread into metal, and make sure you break the engine in properly and you should be okay.

[KIPPY]

hey atm i have never built a kit before so give me many tips cause i cant upgrade unless something breaks tell me free hp tips handling tips etc. tell me things from around the house i can use


post soon please

[Railman]

Kippy, I know you want to get as much info as you can, but that's just not a reasonable request. People spend many hours on this board aswering questions for people, & to try to sum up what's the most important in a few posts just ain't possible. I would suggest that you read the wealth of info that's been posted on here over the last 7 month's or so.You will need to go back to the start of this thread, & if that's not enough, you might want to read the old thread, that was even bigger. You will need to go back about 4 months to get to the old thread. Just about every possible GT issue has been discussed one time or another.Start out by reading what's been posted, & then if you have specific questions, we will be glad to help. ;)
Joe

[ScottJ]

To all whom it may concern. My kit finally arrived today. It only took it a week and a half to get to Korea. I should have it running by this weekend. I am going to take my time putting it together. Then Kunsan AB will never be the same. Jace and cnk I will be getting in touch with you in a week or so to figure out when I can come up to Seoul.
Cheers:p :p :p :p :p :p

[KIPPY]

hey railman i have read the old and new forms but i will probbly go through them agin thanks

[rcjeff]

I will be gettin a GT in about 2 months and i want to have it all planned out ahead. Should i get a Team, Team Built, RTR, or Sport? I wont have the money for a FT. If you could tell me which is better i would very much appreciate it! Also, plz tell me a reason why i should get it over one of the others. Also tell me a drawback of it (hopefully there are none!:D ) Thanks a lot!

I will be racing it on a dirt oval track, if that makes any diffence.
I should know more about the track in a couple weeks.

[atm92484_3]

Get the Team. Its the best out of all the trucks you listed. Drawbacks to getting it: you'll spend a little more but you'll get more hop-ups.

Just to let you know, the Team handles just as well as the FT. The only difference is the FT includes all the hop-ups but most of them are just eye candy.

[rcjeff]

thats what i was thinking i was gonna get, but is the extra $ worth it for the upgrades?

[atm92484_3]

Yes the extra money is worth it. First off, the teflon shock bodies never wear out (annoed ones will eventually), plus the teflon coated ones are smoother. Also, CVDs are nice since they do provide a smoother transfer of power. Plus, if you pop a turnbuckle off, you won't be searching around for a lost dogbone.

[Leinzey]

Well, I have just about gone through with a trade for a GT, and I can't wait to get it. One thing, though, what kind of receiver cover is necessary for it? If you have a link for tower that would be great. Any other advice or suggested hop-ups would be awesome, although the one I'm getting has pretty much everything.:D You'll probably be seeing alot of me around here.

[mississippi]

got my Gt today, but im kinda disappointed. a BUNCH of the screws are the wrong ones, were it call for a countersunk one a hex head one is included, ugh, i guess ill have to make a trip to the hardware store.

But overall i really like the GT, looks to be of exceppent quality, cant wait to try it out!

[Gokou]

Are you sure? AE doesn't mispack hardware too often. I can see maybe one or two, but not a bunch! Remember, each bag will do a specific step of assembly. If there are errors call AE up and they'll send you the right stuff at no charge!

Leinzey: you have a few choices as far as receiver protection goes. Have a look at page 18 of this thread; there were some discussions about receiver protection.

[KIPPY]

hey does the ftgt come wiyh ti hinge pins also this is a stupid question but if i tighten the slipper stiffen the rear shocks and keep rx pack in back with a os cvr and stock gearing will it do a wheelie:D :cool: :confused:

[KC10Chief]

Hey guys, here's a pic of my FTGT and the body I covered with fur. I did the one for the T-Maxx first, and finally got around to doing one for my GT! They're both a pretty big hit with the racing crowd! I won a race last weekend with this body on my truck! It drives and jumps just fine with this body. Matt

[KC10Chief]

Here's one more.....

[KC10Chief]

And everybody loves action shots right? My truck isn't in this photo, but I've got some action shots of the dog body and my regular bodies coming soon! Matt

[KIPPY]

hey thats the coolest body i have ever seen you should send that into rcca rearders rides also answer my stupid question please

[KC10Chief]

Here's a shot somebody sent me of my GT in action. Not a very good photo though. Matt

[poopie]

haha..that body reminds me of a movie..can anyone guess? lol

[TRXboy]

ATM- Corection - the Hard anodized wear out they just take alot longer- the teflon goes after a while to.....

[ilovemygt]

yeserday my gt would start and stall right away i tried everything then i finally took the engine apart and found piston had broke a piece of the side and the connecting rod bushing was gone its gonna cost like 85 to fix it i mean 65 for a piston and sleeve? anyone know if you can get just the piston?

[Leinzey]

Gokou:

Back on page 18 you showed a picture of your throttle OFNA linkage and it looks great, but I'm more interested in the shield covering the servo and receiver. Where did you get it? A part #, price, or whatever else you have would be great

[Leinzey]

hehe...oops. I kept reading and noticed that you made the cover yourself. It looks awesome. Do you think you think you could ever find the time to make and sell me one? I'd really appreciate it.

[KC10Chief]

I Love My GT, 85 dollars sounds pretty steep for a piston and sleeve replacement. I've never seen anybody that sells pistons seperate from the sleeves except for airplane engines. Still, a new piston and sleeve for an OS is around 40 bucks for both, and about 45 for a Mugen. What engine are you running? If you cracked the piston, you'll probably need a new sleeve anyways. If you're running AE engine, I'd suggest you just bite the bullet and buy an OS .12CV. They're around 90 dollars and it's a great engine! Matt

[ilovemygt]

its an os cvr .12 its 65 for piston/sleeve and 20 for connecting rod

[atm92484_3]

Love, that sucks. I've had that happen before except it was with a 12 CV so everything wasn't as expensive. Too bad some US company doesn't make ABC pistons and sleeves for CV-Rs since the chroming processed isn't as expensive to do here.

[mississippi]

guys, i need some help.

got my Gt together enough to where i could start it:D but now with my starterbox the wheel isnt close to the holes in the chassi. about an inch off. my starter box is an ofna black one, anyone have a picture of how they have their box setup? and a picture of the Gt on the box?

thanks

[atm92484_3]

I'll try to get a pic of mine later mississippi. Another thing you could try is filing the edges of the holes for the flywheel so the starter box wheel doesn't get caught up on it. I did this and it works so much better.

[mississippi]

i could deal with it getting caught, but its not even close:(

i hope your picture will help, ill be waiting:cool:

[atm92484_3]

Ok, here are the pics. Sorry for them being so dark.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/017/EV/TI/5Y/Fb32252.jpg

If you look at the front of the box, you can see where the screws for the steering hit the starter box (the paint is worn off). Notice where the "nubs" are.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/009/Q2/VN/7l/Fa85110.jpg

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/037/Ot/Bz/gK/EM21446.jpg

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/016/sh/IH/oD/F948270.jpg

Notice where the "nubs" line up on the car. Its nice, since it holds the car there all the time.

BTW, believe it or not, the wheel getting caught on the chassis wastes a ton of power. Before, when it was catching, my box could barely turn the 12 CV-R over. After I bevelled the chassis, it could turn it over, but it still had a little trouble since the engine was new.

For you guys with the MIP clutch, I finally ordered one today. Any suggestions on settings?

Thanks

[TRXboy]

ATM i run no weight's, has a little lag but barly noticable, helps the engine get up to some power so its dosent bog in the corners.

[mississippi]

THANKS SOOO MUCH ATM!

you have no idea how much that helped.

thanks again

[Got Speed]

Should I buy titanium or graphite towers? I run offroad and oval.

[OmegaTrac]

TieRod and Turnbuckle Ends

I have had the lunsford tietanium(sp) tierods and turnbuckle's on my GT RTR for about 2-3 weeks now and I keep stapping the stupid Associated black plastic tie rod ends. What can I do to stop from doing this. On the track, I might not even hit anything and they still snap. What should I do?

[atm92484_3]

I'd take the graphite towers since they probably cost less and are just as rigid.

Omega, you could try some RPM ones but I heard they change the steering a little and they interfere with the front wheels. Are the Lundsfords any bigger or smaller (both thicker and longer) than stock?

[Eric Gharakhanian]

today when I was starting my gt i noticed that my servos were making alot of noises and I saw that my steering servo wasn't even centered. I took the body of and I saw that my steering servo's (a futaba s9304)control arm was all the way down hitting the chassie 180 degrees away from where it should be. My throtle/brake servo's arm was turned all the way around so that the brake and throtle linkages were touching eachother. I immediatly shut everything off and cheaked my reciever it was wet with nitro fuel. I figured that niro had gotten into my reciever and that is what caused the problem. I cleaned the reciever and chasis as best i could but the problem still persists. It does not seem there are large amounts of nitro in the reciever though because no fuel comes out when I flip it upside down and the the battery/servo conecters seem to be dry. How do I fix this. Thank you in advance.

[ScottJ]

What I would do first is to diagnose the problem a little further. Try a buddies reciever. Hook up you servos to it and see if they work. If they do then it is most certainly your Rx. Be careful with the fuel. If it did get inside the Rx then I would bet that it's fried. Take the time before you throw it away to do a little troubleshooting first and make sure that is what it is. Good Luck.

[Eric Gharakhanian]

i just trid that same radio on another one of my cars it works just fine. It probablu is my reciever becayse there is no way that two water resistant servos on oposite sides of the chassie could both get nitro in them.

[atm92484_3]

If/when you fix this problem, its probably a good idea to get some sort of protection for your receiver from stuff like this. Look back on pages 14 and 18 for my receiver box and instructions on how to do it.

[OmegaTrac]

ATM,
The lunsford are wider and maybe a little longer. So, which ends should I get? Get Associated ones or RPM ones?


Since Im a newbie at racing maybe stay off the pipes would help:rolleyes:

[ritchies rc10gt]

i have tried the rpm rod ends on my gt,they are longer than the AE ends.in order to get them to fit and have your wheels close to where they should be you need to screw them so far in the end that they start poking into the ball cup,after you do that you cant get them on.the only time i have a problem with bending a turnbuckle or breaking the ends is when i get mad and throw the truck or kick it.ive only bent 2 turnbuckles since i got it and bent one hingepin.thats cuz i got mad and tossed it on the ground as hard as could.

[KC10Chief]

Dude, how could you hurt your GT on purpose? My GT is like my kid. I'd never intentionally hurt it. My GT usually treats me pretty good and I treat it good. I'm thinking about getting another one. If it were a real car, it would have about 350,000 miles. It's getting worn out. The chassis has a slight bow to it and it's now silver on the bottom it's seen so much use and abuse. In all the time I've had it and after racing it every single weekend this summer, I've never broken anything like a suspension arm, bent a turnbuckle, or anything. This truck rocks. I'd like to get another one and set it up like I have my GT set up now. Anybody else ever do this? Matt

[OmegaTrac]

KC10,
Which tierod ends would you reccomend. Or are you using the stock?

[TycoTeamDriver1]

Dang its been a long time since i posted now. almost 10 or so pages i think. But i run Lunsfords and RPM cups and i love them the turnbuckles dont come out of the cups like richest said. Well sunday i raced and got 2nd in the finals.

[ritchies rc10gt]

are the lundsford shorter than the AE ones?

[OmegaTrac]

The lundsfords are a little longer.


I am having a problem with my pull start on my GT RTR. When I used my starter box on it the pull start mechanism leak black oil out of it. Is it supposed to do this? If not how can it be fixed?


Also, my dad put after run oil in my one shock:eek: Is the shock ever going to be the same again? or is it messed up for good?

--Chris

[Railman]

The after run oil may or may not swell the o-rings. It's a fairly easy thing to replace them, but I'd just change out the oil with the proper wt silicne shock oil & see if it still works freely. As long as it act's the same as the other shock, & doesn't leak, i'd just run it. If you want to be shure though just rebuild both shock's (just 2 o-rings) so they are matched. The tools necesary come with the truck kit. The manual explains the procedure very well.
Joe

[KC10Chief]

Omega, get the Associated titanium turnbuckles. I've never bent one and I've hit stuff, cartwheeled, etc and haven't broke or bent one yet. I am using the RMP ball cups. If you get the Associated turnbuckles, make SURE you get the blue ball cups. If you decide to get the lunsford turnbuckles, make sure you get the RPM ball cups for Lunsford. I think they're gray, but I'm not sure. It says on the package. I wouldn't bother with the lunsford turnbuckles. Too much money! The Associated titanium ones work great and are strong as hell! Good luck! Matt

[KC10Chief]

I have a Factory Team GT. Is it just me, or do these blue screws seem to break and strip out more than the regular black ones? Especially the machine head screws on the bottom of the truck. They round out really easy and then I have to take a dremel and cut a slot in them so I can get them out with a screwdriver. I replace them with the black screws and I haven't stripped one or broke one of them yet! Are the black ones harder than the blue ones? Matt

[Railman]

KC, The black ones are hardened steel, & the blue ones are anodized aluminum. Enough said? This wasn't a trick question was it?:rolleyes: :p :D
Joe

[atm92484_3]

KC10, I snapped quite a few blue aluminum screws. They look good but they aren't that durable. IMO they are good where no pressure will be put on them (fuel tank, servos, tranny), but they stink for anyplace that may/will take any sort of impact. If you have new allen wrenches, I've found this helps prevent stripping.

[Gokou]

You can always shell out $90 for a set of Ti-Scruz and have all the weight savings of the aluminum screws and the strength of the steel screws :rolleyes:

I don't even bother with the aluminum screws. They save hardly any weight (like I can tell a difference when my truck is a few grams lighter...) and they do strip out often. In hard wrecks they also like to shear, which makes removing them slightly difficult. There is another option... stainless screws (which I run.) The stock black oxided steel screws will rust up pretty quick if they get wet and you don't dry them off. I don't like rust, so I purchased a full set of stainless screws to cover my whole truck. Not only are they stronger than the aluminum screws, they won't rust like the black oxided steel screws. Did I mention they look cool? :)

For about $25, you can buy all the sizes of stainless screws you need in boxes of 100, providing you with spares for years to come.

[atm92484_3]

Gokou, you got me interested. Where did you get these screws at?

[mississippi]

www.mcmaster.com

thats an industrial supply site, hence the 100 per package:D

[KIPPY]

hey guys gty just came and it came with paint in a bottle if i buy a brush and paint it will it look bad also heres what came
ftgt
20% odonnell
hiteq lynx fm
hiteq metal gear servo high tourque
os cvr
os glow plugs
decals
plese answer soon

[TycoTeamDriver1]

Or you could just get the Kit of Stainless steel screws by GPM has all of the screws needed for the rc10gt even header screws they won't break because their stainless steel and not some aluminum. I might buy the GPM's just to see if my saying is correct or not.

[Gokou]

Kippy-- go get some pactra in a spray can, it will come out much better than brushing.

And TeamTyco-- don't go giving GPM money for their stainless screw kits. All they do it buy in bulk and repackage them. Let me put it this way: GPM buys screws in bulk and repackages them-- they give you the right number of screws to do your truck for about $20 and you don't get any extras. You could do that, or you can buy a box of each size screw you need. You only need about 6 sizes to do the whole truck. This method comes out to about $25. Now, instead of having all your stainless screws on your truck and no spares, you now have 100 screws of each size-- You literally get hundreds of spares for a few bucks more than you would pay for the GPM kit. Any questions? :cool:

Let me put it yet another way: If you buy all the screws in bulk at McMaster-Carr prices and do the math, the total cost of the GPM kit comes out to roughly $3.50. That is a HUGE markup.

And yes, you can get them from McMaster-Carr. I got mine there except for the 4-40 x 7/8" flatheads (used at the front of the tranny); I got those at a local industrial supply store.

If you get the stainless screws, don't forget to polish the heads before you install them... it makes the truck look much shinier :D

[Eric Gharakhanian]

Gokou is right McMaster is the best for 1 they have everything at really cheap prices. Also they sell industrial supplies that are really cool. I bought a special crayon from them that would change colors when it reached certain temps. you can use this to tell you if your engine is geting too hot if you don't have a temp. gun. But the even beter thing is that 9 times out of 10 you get the products the next day! :D

[Gokou]

Can't go wrong with McMaster. Here at work we do over $250,000 in business with them every year, and 99% of the stuff we order comes the next day even shipped ground. In fact, I currently have $2500 in drill bushings sitting on my desk from McMaster-Carr, and about 4 more boxes full of stuff from them under my desk-- bolts, drill blanks, lifting hooks, slip/fixed bushings, etc. McMaster-Carr is an engineer's best friend :D

[atm92484_3]

So you've never had any problems with them? My moms worried about ordering from them since we've never dealt with them before. Are they secure and all to order online with?

[atm92484_3]

Is 18-8 stainless steel good enough (sorry I'm not familar with the terms)? :)

[Gokou]

Yes, 18-8 is fine. That's what I purchased.

[KC10Chief]

Does anybody know what the different sizes are for each of the screws and bolts on the GT? Are they 4-40? Does anybody know where I could find out what screws I'd need to get to replace pretty much every one on the whole truck? Thanks for any info! Matt

[atm92484_3]

Matt, just go to that site and do a search for "screw" then click on "allen screw" and fill in what you want. On the GT, most of the screws are 4-40 but there are a few 8-32s and 5-40 (engine mounts) but I wouldn't worry about replacing these.

Gokou, thanks for the info man. I think I'll order 700 (about $43) or so screws :D after Thanksgiving if I'm not broke from my NTC3. I still can't belive how cheap the price is on these screws, yet you get so many. I think my GT, NDS, and NTC3 would all look good in stainless steel screws.

[OmegaTrac]

Yo,
I have the AE .15 and just bought a starter box for it. When I used the starter box on it, black oil started leak from the side of the pull start mechanism. What is up with that? Is it supposed to do this? I also noticed this after a run or two at the track.

Any ideas?

--Chris

[ritchies rc10gt]

it sounds like your pullstart shaft and/or back plate are worn out letting oil come through the it.the other guys may know exactly what it is.if you need a backplate and shaft let me know cuz i have a complete AE .15 that broke the con rod bushing and stripped a head screw hole in the block

[Leinzey]

More on receiver protection; atm92484_3, your T-Maxx radio box looks like it works well, but it's kinda big and hangs over the edge of the chassis. Have any of you used the Traxxas Nitro Sport's receiver box? It looks smaller so I'm thinking if might fit better. Any thoughts?

Also, Gokou, if you could make another one of those graphite receiver cover plates for me, about how much would it be? Thanks.

[atm92484_3]

I've never tried that receiver box, but I don't really think anything smaller would work. As it is now, the receiver barely has enough room to lay flat in there, so I doubt a smaller box would work unless you had the receiver on a side or you got a smaller receiver.

[Leinzey]

I have a micro receiver, if that tells you anything. I don't have a GT yet, hoppefully I'll get one by/for Christmas. The trade I was going to make for a GT for my Pro2 fell through. If anyone wants to check it out I have it posted in the Buy/Sell/Trade Forum. Thanks.

[Leinzey]

One other thing, my LHS has a .12 CV-R with the short crank and slide carb for only $120! Only problem is the slide carb. I have no idea how to set it up. I noticed AlterEgo aka Mr. Z mentioned he had a slide carb. If you have a pic and any parts you used, that would be great. Thanks.

[mississippi]

here is a picture of my slide carb linkage, it is a combination of the ofna throttle linkage, and the stock one.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/005/jS/ko/Yo/vt60471.jpg

[KIPPY]

hey guys what specialty tolls will i need to build my gt

[KC10Chief]

Kippy, nothing special. Maybe a screwdriver. It comes with the tools you need.

Mississippi, I use the same throttle linkage and you are wise to do so! The stock one sucks! However, I see a problem with yours! There is no spring on the throttle linkage between the collet closest to the carb, and the plastic part that slides on the rod. You need this spring there so that black part can slide on that rod when you hit the brake! Without that spring, you're putting a lot of strain on that servo, and your brake performance suffers. The kit should have one in it. Your throttle rod looks kind of short and it looks like there isn't much room for the spring. What I would suggest is moving the linkage where I have pointed out in this photo. You may have to get a longer rod. It is a 2-56 rod I believe, but check your manual to be sure. If your car shop doesn't have one, any place that sells RC airplanes will have one. They're cheap. You should move the throttle linkage to the throttle arm that is opposing the arm where you have the brake linkage attached. You NEED that spring in there. With the spring on there, the engine will go to idle when you let off the trigger. The spring will hold it at idle. When you hit the brake, the plastic piece should slide along the rod, the engine should stay at idle, and you should have a lot better braking. Hopefully somebody with a photo of how the spring should go on can post if for you. I don't have a digital camera. Anyways, make sure you get that spring on there! Matt Okay. I can't get the stupid pic to work. Hopefully you get what I'm talking about!

[Railman]

Atm, Did you ever get your MIP 4 in 1? I just naw realized that no one answered your question as to the settings. Use #2 setup for offroad (non oval) tracks. You'll love it! r Also roughen the inside of your clutchbell with sandpaper , & clean it with laquer thinner, brake cleaner, etc. The MIP shoes will work better with the stock teflon residue removed.

Mississipi, Nice job! Did you intentionally set the throttle linkage up out of square or did you read about doing that somewhere? You should have a nice progressive low end with that setup, as in a negative curve throttle response. The only thing that I would rcomend is to square the brake rod by bending the brake cam arm a little. It will give a quicker brake release, with more brake power.
Where did you get an anodized O'Donnel pipe? Did you have to cut the header any?
Joe

[KC10Chief]

Hey guys, I got the whole screw situation figure out. If you wanted to replace every screw on the GT with the stainless steel ones from McMaster, here is the list and the quantity you would need.

6 Socket Head 4-40 x 3/4"
16 Socket Head 4-40 x 1/2"
4 Socket Head 4-40 x 7/16" (You could probably just use the 1/2")
29 Socket Head 4-40 x 3/8"
2 Socket Head 4-40 x 1/4" (For rear body mount posts)
2 Socket Head 4-40 x 1" (For manifold attachment with AE or OS engine)
10 Flat head Machine Screw (MS) 8-32 x 1/2"
17 Flat head MS 4-40 x 3/8"
2 Flat head MS 4-40 x 7/8" (Screws for front of tranny)
7 flat Head MS 4-40 x 5/16" (Could most likely use 3/8" screws)
2 Button Head 4-40 x 3/16" (Small screws that hold spur gear to slipper plate)
4 Button Head 6-32 x 3/8" (Motor mount bolts on bottom of mount)

Anyways, there are a couple other lenghts of screws on the GT, but I tried out different ones on my GT and found out that a 3/8" screw will work where a 5/16" screw is supposed to go. For example, the flat heads on the bottom of the chassis that hold the servos on are supposed to be 3/8", and the ones that hold the front end brace mounts are supposed to be 5/16", but a 3/8" screw fits just fine as well. You may not want to get all the screws like the spur gear screws, or the two long ones that go into the tranny. You do have to buy these screws in packs of 100. For the unusual ones, I'd just buy them at the hobby shop if you need them, or go to a hardware store if you want to buy more, but not 100 of them. Matt

[ScottJ]

I finally got some pictures taken of my truck. I finished it last Friday and spent all weekend running it. But here they are! It won't let me post them on this site 'cause they are too big. Here is the link. There are more pictures of the truck on this site also. Not just this one.

http://communities.msn.com/PeanutJones/rccar.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=113

[atm92484_3]

I just got the MIP clutch yesterday but I haven't had a chance to install it yet. I'll take your advice though, thanks.

I gotta get some sleep right now but hopefully I'll install it later. I had a 36 hr project at school for Calc (we finished in about 24), but I had no sleep that whole time and I'm tired. Cya later.

[Leinzey]

Thanks for the pic on the slide carb, although now I'm reconsidering my decision. I don't have a track in my area, so I won't be racing yet. I'm just thinking about when I'm out in the woods going over jumps, and as soon as I'm about to let loose, the engine stalls. Then I have to walk all the way back to my house, and start the car. I could take the box with me, but that's somewhat of a pain to haul it around. But I hate yanking on that stupid cord until my arm is about to fall off. Now I'm leaning towards getting the .12 CV-RX(s) , especially with the $15 off at Tower. What do you guys think? :confused:

[Got Speed]

There are not any dissadvantages to a 4 in 1 clutch, is there?

[atm92484_3]

The only disadvantage I can see right now is you have to take the flywheel off the engine to press the pins back to get the clutch to fit, and the fact that there is a spring which can come loose. Really though, these are the only 2 disadvantages I can see and they really are outweighted by the performance you supposedly gain over the stock clutch.

[mississippi]

KC10Chief:
thanks for the advice! put a spring on it, much smoother!

Railman:
thanks for the compliments! the servo horn position happened that way out of accident, thats the only way i could get the slide to open and close completely.

[Jwelch]

Leinzy, the CVR is and AWESOME engine. Easy to tune and very, very powerful, I'd trade it for nothing else.

[ritchies rc10gt]

i am running a 4n1 clutch also.it is alot better than the stock clutch.i had the wieghts in it but it was to snappy so i tokk them out.one problem i had with it is tapping the pins on the flywheel in a little.i tapped them in but where they needed to be for it to fit right was too far.the pins were hitting my bearing.but i just boght a new flywheel and filed the pins down till the clutch fit perfect

[atm92484_3]

Ritchies, I had to do the same thing last night. Thats a real pain. I guess its worth it.

[KC10Chief]

Gotta love the GT! Took mine out to race night tonight and tore em up out there. Took first place in the A main and took home a pretty good size trophy. The GT ran smooth as silk as usual! Matt

[Raydee]

Hey guys its been a while since I last ran my GT so I took it out last night and ran it hard for a bit and my spur gear lost all its teeth? I haven't had a problem with the spur gears in quite a while. Could it be because I was jumping it on concrete with the slipper all the way tightened and a picco .12 powering it?

[GTracer22]

I took mine out to my first race last night. In the first heat I only went 2 laps the i blew a clutchbell bearing and it stripped my spur gear! Then I didnt even start in my 2nd heat because my flywheel started to slip! Then in the B main i practiced for about 5 min. and It was running good but then when we started my car took off real slow and stopped on the 1st corner and i had blown a clutchbell bearing and it stripped my spur gear again! I blew at least 6 clutch bell bearings! I was so pissed! Im thinking about getting a losi xxxnt:mad:

[Raydee]

I love my Losi. I race with my Losi and bash with my GT!