Associated RC10GT Forum v3.0

[KC10Chief]

Raydee, make sure your engine is bolted down tight and that the screws holding the spur gear onto the slipper plate are tight too. I would loosen it up a bit.

GT Racer, that's racing and it will happen if you get a Losi too. Sometimes it seems like nothing wants to work right. However, you may want to get a new clutch nut. Sometimes they will wear down and the clutchbell bearings will vibrate on there and cause them to fail. Check your gear mesh too. Matt

[Jwelch]

a few pages back, atm had informed me that 1/4in bearing for the GT arent very durable, and tend to detonate. I had no problems with them, so I left them in and ran it anyways. Was I wrong..... Today, I was running it, when all of a sudden the right wheel started acting funny. I picked up the car, looked at hub carrier, and revved the car to clean it out. This caused the right inside bearing to completely explode, sending bearing fragments everywhere. One ball bearing nailed me right in the forehead, and it hurt like a mofo!!! I later found the right outside bearing blown too, but i didnt see it. That's what caused the wheel to act funny. I guess the inside one must have been like, partially blown, or else it wouldn't had exploded in my face. Caution kids! 1/4in is the devil!



Damn, I have the most wierd-ass r/c inflicted injuries...

[atm92484_3]

LOL thats pretty funny stuff....but I did warn you about those bearings... :D

I can see it now on the package of 1/4" bearings:

"Use of this product my result in serious injury"
"Keep out of reach of small children"
"Wear eye protection while using this product"

Sorry man I couldn't resist. So are you going over to 3/16" bearings? If you have CVDs you can just buy 3/16" axles or if you have dogbones, you can get the 3/16" axles for the Nitro DS.

For you guys who had to grind the flywheel pins for the MIP clutch; do you think it will matter if one pin sticks out the back of the flywheel slightly farther than the other (like less than .25 mm), or would this be enough to set the flywheel off balance? BTW the pins stick out the same distance in the front.

[Jwelch]

LOL, I'm switching to 3/16in. I don't think the flywheel would be a problem at all. Although, balance freaks will tell you that it'll probably blow your freakin engine up, but .25mm of aluminum is lighter than a fart particle, so methinks you're fine :D

[atm92484_3]

Ya, but being the perfectionist I am, I guess I'll be forced to take that flywheel off AGAIN and take whats left of that .25 mm off. I won't be able to sleep (now you can tell I'm addicted to RC :D) if those pins aren't even. Plus I don't wanna damage the CV-R's bearings.

[crawfordna]

Hi guys,

I built a receiver battery pack for my RC10GT out of 5 1600mAh radio shack NiMH AA batteries. It works great, however it really seems to weigh the back of the car down. Should I be concerned about this? Maybe put one step stiffer springs on the rear to compensate? I haven't noticed any differences in speed issues, except I have noticed that my steering is a bit more unresponsive when I hammer it, but it was before too so I didn't think much of it.

BTW, anyone thinking about building their own 1600mAh packs, I'd definitely suggest it ... I ran the truck for about 3 hours yesterday and still had nearly full power to all of my servos (and even more power than using four alkalines in the dry battery case, the torque and speed was unreal!).

Thanks for any suggestions!
--Nick

[Gokou]

Time to talk about motors again...

My X-12 is getting a bit worn... I ran another gallon through it non-stop Saturday, with some sustained high-speed stuff, which I think really hurt the poor thing. It's got pushing 5 gallons through it now with some really abusive run time on it (sustained high speed stuff and the like, and over-revving donuts when I let my brother drive it) so I feel it's lived long enough. I sold my other new in box RB X-12 a few months back when I wasn't driving my GT, and now I regret it because I no longer have a spare.

I've narrowed it down to 2 choices for a new motor. I'm looking at the RB X-12 5 port and the OS .12 TR. I'm confident that like all their other motors, the OS will be powerful, easy to tune, and reliable. On the other hand, the idea of an out of the box 5-port is almost too much to resist. I was really impressed by my X-12 so this is a very hard choice. I was hoping someone had experience with the OS. I really like the new carb design, and the idea of a rear exhaust that's up to OS's standards is great. On the other hand... mmmmmm, 5-port RB. I'm guessing the 5-port would be more of an on-road motor and as such be a little skimpy on low and power, but I could be wrong. If anyone has any experience with these motors or can give me links to reviews of them I'd appreciate it.

[atm92484_3]

Gokou, I have a 12 TR coming either tomorrow or Wednesday but its for my NTC3...not the GT. :( I'll let you know what I think of it though (eventhough I won't be able to run it) and if I don't see a NTC3 soon, I might buy a new crank and drop it into the GT and get another 12 TR later for the NTC3. From what I've seen/heard though, this 12 TR is a fast engine. It might just be me, but I'd probably take the O.S. since its easier to tune yet powerful but 5 ports is tempting.

I remember a while ago Jace was working on putting a SG (pilot) shaft engine in the GT. Anyone remember what even happened with that? Since my TR is the pilot shaft version, if I could get it to fit, the GT could be used for break-in.

*EDIT* I just found what I was looking for back on page 6. Jace, was this hard to do?

[Gokou]

The thought has crossed my mind to get a Richey Eagle or RTU for my GT, but that would be just plain stupid. If the Richey's can spin 4 foam tires on a prepared asphalt track, I would have absolutely zero chance of controlling my 2 wheel drive GT in dirt. Not that it wouldn't be fun to try... :D

[ilovemygt]

iam also looking for a new engine since my cvr blew up whats a good cheap rear exhast .12?

[Gokou]

I've found that "good" and "cheap" are two words that usually aren't used together when describing something, especially engines. Most of the time you get what you pay for. Probably the lowest cost good rear exhaust .12 on the market would be the MT-12, because it's a first generation rear exhaust. Don't let that stop you though, the MT-12 is still a killer motor, more than a GT needs. I used to run one. The RB X-12 is also a great first-gen rear exhaust motor (what I currently run). You should be able to find both for under $165. The OS .12 TR is $159 or so at tower, which is a great price for OS quality. I've never ran one before, so I can't comment first hand, but based on experience with my other OS motors it will probably be quick, easy to tune, and very reliable.

The novarossi based motors (Mugen MT-12, RBs, etc) tend to be a bit quicker than OS's offerings at the expense of tunability and reliability. My Nova based motors are all much more difficult and picky to tune than my OSs, and need frequent fiddling with needles. My OS was a "set it and forget it" motor. It always ran, and the carb almost never needed adjustment unless there was a dramatic weather change. Every time I take my Nova based motors out, the first tank of fuel is usually used to fiddle with the mixtures and dial them in. One way around this is to run an OS carb on a Novarossi based motor, which works very well... :) Unfortunately unless you have one sitting around, an OS carb represents another $55 expenditure.

[ilovemygt]

i have a 10e carb from my cvr would that fit the nova becuase i found a novarossi .12 rear exhast for 150 at nitro house i thinking of getting that would my carb work on it?
what would the needle settings be?

[ritchies rc10gt]

MY GT TRIED TO KILL ME!!!!!! It shot me in the head with the glow plug!!

somehow it shot the glow plug out with all the threads from the button still on it.but since we are talking engine stuff here i need a little help

heres my problem.when i try to start it the pull start slips but it only does this when the glow heater is on it.if i take the glow heater off it is fine.what is up with this?its an ofna force .15S PRO

[OmegaTrac]

LOL!:rolleyes:

Was the plug tigtened down all the way?


--Chris

[violator757]

MY GT TRIED TO KILL ME!!!!!! It shot me in the head with the glow plug!!


my gt did the same thing but it didnt hit me in the head i think it was because i didnt have the glow plug tightened all the way down:mad: but then again i hope it snt a defect in the engine cause i have a ofna force .12s and you got the .15s by the way wht plug are you using in your gt i use the mccoy 59 plug buy with the ofna engine they say to use 2 copper washers and mabey thats why the plug came loose lmk

[Jwelch]

Ritchie, it's just your p/s bearing slipping. Take it out and put it in a film container filled with nitro. Shake it for 20 seconds, and it should be fine.

[GTracer22]

Hey guys I just got an offer to trade a mugen mbx-xr for my Gt and I cant figure out if I should trade! Should I?:confused:

[Jwelch]

GTracer- Ask teamted2, he made the exact asame trade.


TRXboy, I think I solved your wheel melting problem:


http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=393

-John


Btw, check out the pics of the GT w/ buggy tires on New Era's website. Looks very cool, and I think I might get the adapters.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Yall were talking about the MIP 4n1 clutch earlier, and I have something to say about it. Check the clutchbell for circular black marks. If you have these, they are produced from the clutch shoes rubbing while the engine is running. To fix this, just sand down the top and bottom of the shoes a little bit, and voila, no more friction or heat.

About the engines....I just wanted to remind all of you that there is such a thing as too much power. There are tons of choices out there, but I think that the CV-R, TR, Novas and derivatives of Novas, RB's, and Piccos are all great choices.

Those New Era rims will mess up the way the GT was made. The thing will jump kind of like a T-Maxx (more rotating mass), and it won't handle as well. In addition to that, the engine and servos will have to work much harder to turn the heavy rims over. I thought about buying some aluminum rims a long time ago, but decided against them for the reasons listed above. Also, one should remember that when aluminum is bent, it stays bent.

Mark O.

[Jwelch]

I know, and I'm sure that Nick knows, but I was jsut posting cuz someone suggested aluminum rims awhile back.

[TRXboy]

Hmm alumnium rims are tempting but im not all for added weight IN THAT WAY(saying just "added weight" will come back to hount me, you will see why) i think i solved my wheel problem with some shiming havent had to much problems.

[Sponsored By Tyco]

when driving my gt today i saw that my cvd pins (the ones that connect the axels to the shafts) started backing out and made cuts in my arms. Both started to do it. And i tightened the nut up and it still did it. Whats wrong?


Heck ya i got my old name back!!!!!!:D :p

[TRXboy]

Tyco- did you use loc tite? also try heat srinking around the joint so it cant get threw.

[Jwelch]

Yea, that happened to my yesterday. Now I have 2 perfect cuts that look like they were machined in there, and the arm is really weak.

[atm92484_3]

I've had that happen also. Amazingly though, the cut arm lasted until I felt like replacing it (about a gallon later). After that, I made sure I used a ton of threadlock on my CVDs.

[KC10Chief]

IlovemyGT, you can put the 10E carb on your Novarossi. I put the 10E on my Mugen MT .12, and it's more power than I'll ever need. Lots of low end punch, but plenty of top end too. IT won't fit directly on though. The OS carb is smaller so you have to buy an adapter, JB weld the carb in, and then you can install it in your Nova or Mugen. The adapter cost me about 13 bucks.

GTracer22, ask Teamted2 about his offer to trade his GT for an MBX-XR. Where is the guy you're trading with? Anyways, Teamted sent his GT to the guy, but the guy never sent the MBX, won't answer the phone, etc. Ripped him off. I'd be very cautious about trading RC cars through the mail. Matt

[ritchies rc10gt]

ya my glow plug was tight.im running an mc 8 with 2 washers.ill takeit to work with me and clean the bearing with brake parts cleaner and see if it helps.

heres another problem.my flywheel is hitting the bracket for the brakes.why?it has never done it before

[atm92484_3]

Ritchies, I'm guessing you have a pullstart flywheel. On my Nitro DS (car version of the GT), I had the same problem after I reshimmed the flywheel. I guess the shims pushed it out far enough to rub. I simply got the engine running then I drove around for a few minutes just to let the flywheel wear to the shape of the bracket. You can either do this, or try filing the bracket in the places where it rubs.

[Jwelch]

KC10, Ted finally got his Mugen. Next season, I think I'll take a run to BBT w/ him to look at it. Hopefully I'll have my Ultra Worlds II by then :D

[mississippi]

i have been thinking about a lightweight flywheel.

Does the flywheel really help in cooling off the the clutch? i have noticed that my flywheel was turning colors from heat. should it be doing this with the stock flywheel?

so all in all is the mip lightweight flywheel worth it?

thanks

[MtnKodiak]

Originally posted by BigAirGuy
Great purchase!! Welcome to the gt world!! Here is the list of upgrades I would consider, in order. New chassis upgrade kit. New head for the OS CV. (an after market one) RPM rear body mounts..... Titanium turnbuckles CVDs (I coun"t tell if it had them already) Lose the pull start. HAVE FUN!!! and good luck if you try to race.:)

Sorry about the old post (it's from page 15!)... I'm in serious catch-up mode.

Does anyone (or BigAir even) know why someone would want to upgrade the OS CV head? What does that give you? I think it must be more than skin-deep since IMO the V head is one of the groovier-looking heads I've seen.
--mK

[GTracer22]

I think that the OS head looks like a purple panda bear (crappy; toy like) My dad upgraded his to an odonnell blue head and it seems to be running cooler and looks alot better.:D

I decided not to trade my GT because I dont think I could live with out it!:eek:

[MISTERgadget]

Ive run my gt the past two weekends at the brand new off road track down here, and i have one problem that keeps bugging me. Suspension setup is all stock, and upgrades i have are trinity tranny brace, servo mounts, rear bulkhead, and rear shock mounts. I cant seem to get the truck to jump consistently level. i have heard of adding weight to the front end, but how much, and where exactly should i put it? also, the truck understeers a lot in the infield. tell me about using rear tires in front, i think that may be the ticket for it.

[Jwelch]

I would try the free suspension solution first. It seems that your put a good amount of heavier aluminum in the rear, and that could be throwing off your jumping, and causing you understeer. Try:

UNDERSTEER-
1. lowering the front suspension a little
2. adding weight to the front (just use quarters or any small metal object up front for testing. I've even seen people put receiver packs up there)
3. rear tires would help, but I personally hate spending money lol

OFF BALANCE-
Does it nosedive or drop back? If the chassis is only a little off, just brake to drop the nose, and gas it a little to raise it.
Falling back- Drop the suspension
Nosediving- Raise the suspension

From what I can tell, you're heavy on the rear. Try getting the rear dogbones straight, and the front arms level. If this doesnt help, then start adding weight to the end that sticks up when jumping.

[jmans_14]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I finally got pics of my radio box.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/028/Xw/Dn/rK/sP54980.jpg
http://wsphotofews.excite.com/032/Mp/Wb/5Q/rD62155.jpg

Its a Traxxas radio box for the T-Maxx. All I did was I took the stock radio plate, cut the antenna mount off. Then with servo tape, I attached it to the T-Maxx radio box (making sure it didn't hit the fuel tank or anything), and drilled some holes for screws. Then i screwed the stock plate and the T-Maxx box together and mounted them. It seems to work pretty well. What do you guys think?

atm92484_3 how is this box worken out for you so far? Any problems? What do the rest of you guys think, i was thinking of putting this on my rc10gt with a standard receiver(hitec) and im just wondering if there are any disadvantages, or anything that will hurt your receiver. He(atm) told me that the reciver cant be zip tied down, but he put foam in the top of it to keep it from bouncing around. I was thinking of tapeing it to the stock receiver plate with double sided tape and then putting some foam at the top. Will this work good enough to keep my receiver safe?

[atm92484_3]

Jman, still no problems with it. I do have my servo taped down along with that foam on top. Its just there for double protection. So far I can't see any down sides. It protects the receiver, gives you another place to post decals (:D), plus it adds a little weight to the front but if you look closely you can see I have another 4oz up there.

[jmans_14]

Am i correctly saying that adding some weight to the front is a good thing. Wont it help the front tires grip better. Well im glad everything seems to be going good. I think i will go ahead and put it in. I think that if you check the servo tape every year or every 3 mounths(depends on how much you race)then you will know how well it will hold up. There is one thing for sure, nothing from the outside will hurt your receiver again.... Thanks for posting this great idea. Keep me posted on any further developments, i think you know my email.

[KIPPY]

hey guys will the hiteq 300bb servo be enough fo brake and throyyle on my gt with a cvr

[KIPPY]

hey guys i am sorry i ment throttle also if you have the november issue of rc nitro look om page 104 it looks like billy easton is using the gt rtr shocks please post soon

[KC10Chief]

Here's a shot of my most recent paint job for my GT. You can see more photos in the painting forum! Matt

[KC10Chief]

Here's another shot of my dog body in action. I usually run this body in the first heat of the night. The kids like it. Then I finish up with the body pictured above! Matt

[KC10Chief]

Here's one more. I like the shadow on the ground in this photo. Looks like a dog jumping! Matt

[violator757]

those are some great pics i like the dog jumping thing that cool

[KIPPY]

hey guys if you dont mind please answer my question i will be using the servo with 4 aa batiries

[atm92484_3]

That servo will be okay but its a standard servo. You don't need high torque servos for throttle but they do help the braking. If you can afford it, you might want to try getting something with a little more torque, just to help in the braking department.

[Jwelch]

Jeez KIPPY, we can't always answer your every question within 2 seconds...

Has anyone ever had a CVD bone crack right around the bell area?? This happened to me a few weeeks ago, and the cracked bone is holding up OK, but I wonder why STAINLESS STEEL was cracked by a little aluminum pin.

-John

[M 5]

http://www.geocities.com/jason_4tec/GT02.JPG

Heres mine
sorry for the HUGE picture

[Gokou]

Jwelch-- the CVD bone is chromoly steel, and the pin is also steel, not aluminum. Trust me. That pin wouldn't live for 5 seconds if it was aluminum. Where did you get the stainless steel idea for the CVD bones? The shiny CVDs are nickel plated, not stainless.

Still, the pin should break before the bone does. There is lot more meat on the bone.

[Jwelch]

LOL, Gokou, I'm not very metalurgical (sp? hehe). I wouldn't know Ti if someone bounced a block off my head. Thanks for clearing that up. I still wonder why the pin wasn't hurt, but the bell cracked.

[Gokou]

LOL. At least bouncing Ti off your head would be lighter than bouncing steel off your head :D

Still, that has me perplexed that the cup broke before the pin. I wonder if MIP punches the holes and final machines the bones before or after heat treatment. If they punch the holes after heat treatment I would suspect brittle fracture from the machining, but it's only a simple hole. Either way, breaking CVDs sucks. I used to turn them into tweaked noodles all the time on my RC-10 team car. So far on my GT I've only worn them out, not broke them.... yet. I'm sure my day will come :rolleyes:

[Leinzey]

Gokou, awhile back you posted a picture of a graphite plate on your GT that protects the receiver and the servo. Do you think you could make another one and sell it to me? If so, how much would it cost? Thanks.

[mississippi]

hey guys,

at the tracks you race at, is the drivers stand on the straight away side, or on the curvy type side?

thanks!

[Rotorranch]

jWELCH.......i NOTICED A CRACKED cvd BELL ON ONE OF THE CUSTOMERS TRUCKS THE OTHER DAY....(Durn caps button!) The holes in the CVD bell wore, and ended up cracking the CVD bell. I soldered it back togoether, but the best idea would be replacement. The solder won't live, but it was a quick fix for the weekend.

Rotor

[Gokou]

Leinzey-- I have some graphite left of the same weave I used. I'll take mine off and make a template when I'm off work after next Wednesday and cut up a few more. The graphite only had a caul sheet on one side when I laid it up, so one side is smooth and glossy while the other side is a matte finish. The glossy side will obviously be out like on mine. You can't see the matte side against your servo and receiver, so it really doesn't matter.

[TRXboy]

hmmm, bell crack, as in worn out? or as in completly cracked in half, i never had that happen to me, i have twisted the Bone end off 3 or 4 CVD's, but only managed to twist the Bell end off an alumnium CVD, not a Shiny, Oh well, always a first for everything i gess....Gokou, keep me up to date with the upper deck if your still doing it...my little project should be done by decemberish:)...

[OmegaTrac]

Would anyone here be interested in a RC10GT RTR with loads of hop-ups? I am just curious if any would be interested in buying it.

*Hop-Ups*
-Hitec 605 MG High Torque Steering Servo
-O'Donnell Head
-Removed Carb Restrictor(engine is now very fast)
-Factory Team GT Pipe
-MIP 4 in 1 Clutch
-MIP CVD's
-Lundsford Punisher Series Tierods and Turnbuckles
-RPM long shank ball cups
-RPM Bulkhead
-35wt shock oil in front, 40wt in the back
-Silver Springs in front
-Green Springs in back
-Team Losi Edge Front Tires
-Pro-Line Step-Pins in the rear
-New RC10GT RTR body with wing
-McCoy MC-59 glowplug
-Chassis Cut out for starter box
-Lynx AM Radio
-Can either be pull started or used on a starter box
All that it needs is a new pull start.Which will be taken care of.

Anyone interested in buying this truck?
--OmegaTrac

[new2it]

Double post Sorry

[new2it]

Hi Guys, I asked a while ago about putting a TTR EVO .12 in a GT. It can't be done right now, the engine is only available with a piolet shaft (SG). SO I bought a R&B X12. AWESOME ENGINE! About 25 tanks of fuel, and it is still tight at TDC. I was running it on a dirt track today, and it blew away an RTR GT with the 15 stock engine on the straight. I could pull right by him every time. My throttle still is on the top hole of the carb linkage so it doesn't open all the way while it is breaking in. I have been running a Rustler, and doing OK, but this GT holds the track better. Can't wait till spring to go to the real track!!

Does the Factory team GT come with a 15 or 16 tooth clutch?

In RC Heaven
David Root

[tcritserjr]

Is it possible to convert my team t3 to a GT and if so is it worth it money wise and what parts will i need to buy to make it happen?

All help and advice is greatly appreciated.

[atm92484_3]

David, thats great to hear. The GT is an awesome truck and you have a sweet engine. As for the clutchbell on the FT GT, its a 15 tooth.

Tcritserjr, there is no way to convert the T3 to a GT. You have to buy the GT. There are very few parts the two trucks share.

[gtwolfpack]

I have tried proline GMC suburban body on my GT to find out that it was kind of big and looked somewhat awkward on GT...I have scanned towerhobby's 1/10 body listing and found some SUV bodies from Bolink or Parma but, judging from their posted dimensions, they were also too wide...I know Dahms-International used to make a SUV body for stadim trucks, but, it is now discontinued and not available anywhere.... Point me to a right body or give me a clue as to what SUV body will fit GT with minium mod...Thanks Guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!:) (as always)

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Just to tell you guys that Hardcore Racing is Coming out with a Servo/Recever protector like gokuo's but it's blue aluminum. I forgot how much but its a resonable price. Its in the December Edition of RCCA.

[Sponsored By Tyco]

tcritserjr,

If it was a T2 there would be alot more parts they share but since its a T3 theres very few. And if you do convert it, it will cost about as much as a GT anyway.

[Got Speed]

I don't have the money to buy an airtronics servo so should I buy the Cirrus CS-65 or the CS-80? The 65 has approx .1 transit time and 120 oz. and the 80 has approx .2 transit time and 130 oz.(I think). Are the ofna throttle linkages the best? Where do I get em?

Thanx:)

[OmegaTrac]

So,
Anyone interested in my truck?

-Chris

[crawfordna]

Hey guys, let me know what you think about this idea (before I venture in to debt). Do you think it would sell OK? They'll be cheaper than both of the packs offered now (trinity and orion) and they'll fit much better too.

1000mAh cells, NiMH, 6V, 5 cell hump pack, quality copper bars, durable wire, tested, shrink wrapped and pretty. Using Nexcell batteries (they're awesome). I was going to use cheaper cells but didn't want to sacrifice quality. Tysonic's suck, and GP's are hard to get in large quantities. Sanyo doesn't make a cell in the size that I need with the capacity I want.

I could sell them for about $23.00/piece + 2.00 shipping (that's about the maximum I would sell them for, this is the worse case scenario) once I get started. Little profit for me, but it's something to keep me busy in the off season and I really enjoy building them. No connector plugs though, buyer would have to purchase the appropriate connectors/plugs from their LHS or tower (the hobbico brands are $2.89 at tower).

I couldn't offer much of a warantee considering this is out of my garage, and the maintenance and care that NiMH cells require (i.e. some moron is likely to throw it on a non peak charger at 5 amps and blow it up...). I could probably do a 15 day warantee though to cover D.O.A.'s (unlikely that this will occur since I will be testing them individually with my Integy 16x5).

Here's the link with more info in the general discussion forum, let me know what you guys think (is it worth it?).

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61266

[TeamCarnage]

New2it.. I just broke in my X12 and also love it! I ran OS's and needed a change. Iwas wondering what pipes you tried or are using. I went the budget route and bought a Dynamite. Anybody checking this post I'd appreciate some feedback Thanks, Nick

[OmegaTrac]

How much should I sell my RC10GT RTR for?
I really want to get rid of it so that I can go and buy a new Team Losi Triple X-NT. Because compared to my GT in handling, the GT's handleing is really sucky.

So is $550 or best offer for my RTR with
*Hop-Ups*
-Hitec 605 MG High Torque Steering Servo
-O'Donnell Head
-Removed Carb Restrictor(engine is now very fast)
-Factory Team GT Pipe
-MIP 4 in 1 Clutch
-MIP CVD's
-Lundsford Punisher Series Tierods and Turnbuckles
-RPM long shank ball cups
-RPM Bulkhead
-35wt shock oil in front, 40wt in the back
-Silver Springs in front
-Green Springs in back
-Team Losi Edge Front Tires
-Pro-Line Step-Pins in the rear
-New RC10GT RTR body with wing
-McCoy MC-59 glowplug
-Chassis Cut out for starter box
-Lynx AM Radio
-Can either be pull started or used on a starter box
All that it needs is a new pull start.Which will be taken care of.

A good deal?


--OmegaTrac

[Gokou]

Omega-- why are you saying that your GT handles "sucky" compared to an XXX-NT? I've driven both, and I much prefer the GT. By "sucky" do you mean that the XXX-NT has more steering? That is the biggest difference between the two trucks. The GT is much lighter in the nose than the XXX-NT and as such without proper suspension setup it is VERY prone to "push" through turns. The XXX-NT has much more weight on the nose than the GT does and thus exhibits better turning (almost to the point of oversteer) than a GT that isn't set up properly.

Try setting your GT up as follows (a great all around setup that has worked for me everywhere... it's AE's team driver's starting configuration.)

Front, #2 pistons with 35 wt. oil and silver springs. Outside outside on the tower and arm, zero toe, 1-2 degrees camber, three washers under the ball on the steering knuckle. Arms level with chassis kick-up.

Rear, #1 pistons with 30 wt. oil and green springs. Outside
outside on the tower and arm. 1.5 degree hubs with the 3 degree arm mounts. 1-2 degrees camber, link on the lower inside hole (bulkhead) rear axles level for ride hieght. CVD spacing: large spacer on the inside and then 2-3 thin right by the axle pin on the outside

This setup makes the GT hook up on about any track and will more than give a XXX-NT a run for its money.

If you still want to sell, my guess is that you could get $350-400 for your setup. I know it's lower than you want, but that is a more accurate figure. What you want for something and what someone will pay for it is often quite different, usually to the seller's disadvantage. :(

TeamCarnage: the best pipe that I have found for the X12 is quite oddly the RB X12 pipe... freaky, huh? I run a serpent mega pipe with my X12 (same pipe as the X12 pipe) and it worked the best of all the pipes I tried (CVEC, standard AE, turbo ring, O'Donnell) with my X12.

[ScottJ]

I am in Korea and my tire selection is "Zero" I was wondering what tire I should use for the surface I race on. It is hard packed dirt. Almost like concrete, with a dusty sand cover. It could be swept but the dusty sand cover stays there. I need to order tires but don't want to spend money on a tire that doesn't work. Right now all I have are the Bowties and they give no traction. I can do donuts at 1/8th throttle. Does anyone know of a tire that will work well on this type of surface? Thanks

[ScottJ]

Here is a picture of my truck with step pins. They are now bald.

[kappaintball]

I was thinking about getting a top plate for my FTGT I know that gpm makes one but was wondering if there are any others on the market. Also what do you guys think of that new Team Orion engine comming out?
Thanx
Scott

[OmegaTrac]

Thanks for the info.
Maybe I will still sell my RTR GT and buy an FT GT. Is that a good idea?


-Chris

[atm92484_3]

It really depends on what you have on your RTR. If you want a Factory Team car and your RTR has few hop-ups, then its a good deal.

[MISTERgadget]

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-4.jpg

Miami R/C raceway is proud to announce its first race! Come on sunday, november 25th, for the JLap thanksgving turkey race. Booby moore and team mugen USA will be there. saturday is practice day from 9 am to 5pm, and sunday registration is from 7:30 to 9 am, and racing starts at 11 am. Fees are 10 for practice and 10 for the race. It promises to be a great day, so come and show support for miami's first permanent rc off road track.

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-3.jpg

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-5.jpg

visit our website for more information, including rules and directions to the track.

Miami R/C Raceway Home (http://www.geocities.com/gadgetracing/miamirc)

[OmegaTrac]

ATM,
My RTR has a boatload of hop-ups. Should i get Team Losi XXX-NT or get the FT GT?

-Chris

[richbefishn]

I just bought my first nitro. It's newer RC10-GT. Here is the discription. I bought it for $197.00. Was this a decent deal? Also how much faster is the .15 over the .12? Is the .12 engine as good or better than the .15 assosiated. I'm not sure why the truck has the trinity .12 instead of the .15 Associated. Here are the details. Please reply!! This auction is for a Team Associated RC10GT nitro truck,Trinity Picco .12 engine with Picco exhaust and header. Futaba 3003 throttle servo, Hitec HS-645 MG metal geared steering servo, motor saver air filter, new trinity NIMH five cell receiver pack. A lot of extra hardware is included, also air filters, spur gears, pinion screws and more. You also get the manual, box and set-up video it came with. For tires you get two mounted sets, Bowties and Edges, and Dirt Hawgs, and a set of brand new Bowties and Edges. Truck has been raced a few times, there are plenty of scratches on bottom of chasis. The engine has had about a dozen tanks through it and runs great, it is very fast.
Any advice on what I need will greatly appreciated. I have a jr propo Alpina PCM radio. What type of receiver should I get to go with it?

[KC10Chief]

ScottJ, for hardpacked dry dusty surfaces, I like to use the Losi T-Bone's on my GT. They look similar to holeshots, but hook up better and last a LOT longer. I can turn holeshots into slicks in two races on a dry surface. I've had my same pair of T-Bone's for two months and race them on a lot of different surfaces. Good luck! Matt

[Leinzey]

That looks like a really nice track, now if only I lived in Miami... Living in Ft. Wayne is a pain, the bmx track was seeded over, so now there's grass growing there and I can't even race my friends anymore! We desperately need a track in the area, even Indy would be nice. Does anyone live near Ft. Wayne, IN and know of a place to race that is close by?

[KIPPY]

hey guys do any of you live in st. louis mo aqlso if you do please post your setup for dirtburners rc track in kirkwood

[atm92484_3]

That track looks pretty sweet. I just wish we could get one half that good here.

[Jwelch]

here it is Gokou, I havent been able to post for 5 days (EEEK!)

[Jwelch]

hehe sorry, I forgot to crop the photo...!

[TRXboy]

riooght....

[ScottJ]

Thanks for the info. I will have a set of those in 1 week. I just got off the phone with my wife and she is going to pick some up and get them in the mail today. I appreciate it.

[KIPPY]

hey guy i have $50 to spend on my gt i picked out a servo for 28.99 what else should i get

[Jwelch]

Maybe a better bulkhead, lol.

I blasted mine apart yesterday. Does anybody have the RPM one? Is it worth the money?

Other thing, anyone run ProLine Gladiators? How to they hook up in hard surfaces with light dirt on top?

[loco_gt]

The RPM is definitely worth the money. I 've had one forever and it shows no sign of giving up! Just be sure to keep an eye on the screws holding it in. They loosen.

[atm92484_3]

If you still have money left, get a receiver box. Look back on pages 14 and 18 to see how I installed the T-Maxx one on my GT.

[TRXboy]

Jwelch-the glad's get a TON of foward traction, side traction is just not there tho....

[Sponsored By Tyco]

I personally would go for the RPM bulkhead. I have had mine since 1996 and its still stronger than the AE one my friend just got. Yes the bulkhead I bought Was white nylon but now the new ones are Black.


NO I did not keep it white. Its now black.

[KIPPY]

hey guys the kyosho rx cover says it will fit airtronics jr ko rx but will it work with a hitec rx on a gt the rx is the one yhat comes with the lynx fm

[atm92484_3]

Ya it should work. It fit my Futaba receiver and its just as big as the Hitec one.

[FordSucks]

This is Sponsored By Tyco just that I have a new name. Since I lost my password for Sponsored By Tyco.

[OmegaTrac]

ANYONE INTERESTED IN BUYING MY RC10GT RTR WITH A TON OF HOP-UPS? It will sale for $450 OR BEST OFFER!
*Hop-Ups*
-Hitec 605 MG High Torque Steering Servo
-O'Donnell Head
-Removed Carb Restrictor(engine is now very fast)
-Factory Team GT Pipe
-MIP 4 in 1 Clutch
-MIP CVD's
-Lundsford Punisher Series Tierods and Turnbuckles
-RPM long shank ball cups
-RPM Bulkhead
-RRP Hardened Steal Spur
-35wt shock oil in front, 40wt in the back
-Silver Springs in front
-Green Springs in back
-Team Losi Edge Front Tires
-Pro-Line Step-Pins in the rear
-New RC10GT RTR body with wing
-McCoy MC-59 glowplug
-Chassis Cut out for starter box
-Lynx AM Radio
-Can either be pull started or used on a starter box
All that it needs is a new pull start.Which will be taken care of.

I want to get rid of this truck as soon as possible!


-OmegaTrac

[violator757]

try posting in the buy/sell/trade section im tired of seeing that thing all over the board dang man please cut it out thanks

[bolink]

I just got a RC10GT i bought off of a guy in canada,i think it was a good deal, $80 for rolling chassis with Shiny CVDS,2 sets of tires(the stock ones and proling road hawgs,i think) 1 set of rims the stock 3 piece ones,new brack disk and brake pad assembly,the stock pipe,and a MIP stinger with header,RPM ball cups,new shocks,and a JR alpine radio (i think),but i have a question,when i lock up the brakes (brake disk not rotating) i can still put it flat on the ground and push it and the tires roll,its harder to push though than with the brakes off,it looks like the pin that goes through the shaft that the brake hex and disk are on is not long enough,but i dunno cause its my first nitro RC,i have 3 Elec. RCs though,please email me at Honey47@netnitco.net if possible cuase i dont check this often,oh yeah its the old version GT

[atm92484_3]

The pin should be long enough. One of the first hop-ups I'd consider though would be an aluminum brake hex. They're something like $4, but it greatly strengthens the brakes. Drive it first, then if it seems like the brakes aren't tight enough, try to tighten the brakes. You can do this by tightening the screw on the linkage or replacing the spring on the linkage with a piece of fuel tubing.

BTW, sounds like you got a great deal for $80. I'll email you in a few minutes, since it sounds like you won't see this.

[Jwelch]

Anybody use a handheld bump starter on their GT? Can anyone tell or show me how much I hafta cut the flywheel hole (and with what bit)? I'm getting one for X-mas, and the last time I used one, I had rubber all over my chassis. I really wish AE made that hole bigger...


-John

[FTR]

i use a box and on my FT GT i had to open the hole 3.5 millimeters and round out the edges

[kappaintball]

I have a FTGT and just the other day I tried to start it and it would rev up and then die on me. I'm thinkning it needs a new piston and sleeve but before I go and buy one I was wondering if there is anything I can try. Also how often do you guys have to replace your piston?
thanx
Scott

[atm92484_3]

I replace my piston and sleeve when I lose compression. You can check this by turning the engine over and seeing if it feels like there is little resistence at the top of the stroke, or going to your LHS and seeing if they'll let you borrow a compression gauge to check the engine (or you can cough up $30 and buy one). I'd check it before I went out and spend $35+ on a new piston and sleeve though. Other culprits for your engine acting like this may include a bad glow plug, bad needle settings from the temperature changing, a dead glow igniter, or a damaged connecting rod.

good luck

[AlterEgo]

Hi Guys,
A little help please, my truck seems to want to pull to the side sometimes, sometimes left sometimes right. Is this a sign of poor diff adjustment?
Can you gimme some things to look at?
:)
MrZ

[atm92484_3]

Its possible that the rims are binding with the hubs, but since you said it goes to both sides, I doubt this is the problem. It might just be the fact that you have that powerful of an engine in a 2wd truck, and the side it spins to is determined by what tire can get traction before the other one. With my 12 CV-R (no where near what you have), I have this happen sometimes on loose dirt.

[AlterEgo]

Maybe it's just a combination of a powerful engine, a slide carb and a heavy trigger finger :D
I guess i just got learn the lightweight touch.
Thanks :)
MrZ

[Jwelch]

A completely random posting of my GT....

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Arnivax&album_id=35111&image_id=5&courtesy=1

[ioNcasT]

Well I just traded off my Monster Blazer for a Factory Team RC10GT w/ the Novarossi CX12 Pull start. I'm pretty psyched since I haven't run a nitro truck in a long time, especially a RC10GT. Don't be suprised if you see me around this thread a little more often ...

ryan

[Jwelch]

Good move buddy ;) Welcome!

-John

[Railman]

MrZ, It's probably the diff. If it's not free your truck just won't want to go straight. It's amazing how much the diff can affect the drivability of an rc car, especialy high powered nitro cars. I've had similar problems in the past, & it was always the diff. Does it feel gritty? Can you loosen it some without it slipping? Hold the spur & one wheel, while turning the opposite wheel. A good diff should be free, & not slip.
Joe

[AlterEgo]

I'll check it out this weekend.
Thanks
:)
MrZ

[baddoggprix]

I just got a set of 3 piece rims for my GT. Is it true you dont need to glue the tires on the rims like you do on 1 piece wheels? Please email me asap so I can mount them. baddogg79@mediaone.net

[atm92484_3]

Its true you don't *need* glue but I'd highly reccomend it. Its to the point now where the engines are so powerful that after a few jumps and crashes, the tires will be coming off. If you glue anything, atleast glue the back tires.

[baddoggprix]

Thanks for the quick reply. I just now noticed there for the 1/4" axles. I have 3/16". Now I have to find a way of getting rid of them or drilling out the hole.

[GTracer22]

Just go ahead and drill out the hole. I had to do it and I havent had any problems.:D

[baddoggprix]

cool I will thanks:D

[atm92484_3]

You don't need to drill the hole out. Just get the rims on the axle and you'll be okay. 1/4" is larger than 3/16" so drilling it out will only make it worse.

[GTracer22]

Oh yeah! I got the sizes confused!:confused:

[baddoggprix]

Im such a dope, I should of noticed that. Is all the newer GTs have 3/16?

[atm92484_3]

All have 3/16" axles but the RTR and possibly the Team Built since it uses dogbones and the stub axles.

[KIPPY]

hey are the rpm a arm mounts a direct fit for a ftgt

[atm92484_3]

I believe they are.

[format13]

Help!
HI, im only 14 and have just gotten enough money to buy an RC car other than one from Radio Shack, i have been reading Rc Car action for over a year and i thought i knew everything about RC nitro. So, just 3 weeks ago i saved my precious pennies and bought an Associated RC10Gt RTR. In the first two days i broke the bumper braces, the fuel tank, the front right hub, axles, and the thingy that goes between the manifold and engine.
It also turns out i broke in my engine totally wrong, so its busted and i have no money.

I wanted to start racing at my local track and my friend Brian is getting a new .16 engine for his maximum st, i was wondering if his .12 Duratrax engine is in anywhere near competition!

Thnx.
Email me HERE (format13@aol.com)

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Originally posted by KIPPY
hey are the rpm a arm mounts a direct fit for a ftgt

Yes the are and stronger then ae ones.

[Gokou]

The RPM mounts are an exact replacement for the old tub chassis mounts, not the new flat chassis mounts. They move the arms forward about 1/16" which means you have to file/grind the chassis a bit for a-arm clearance at the inside front of the a-arm. They also do not have any anti-squat in them (the AE mounts do); this will make the truck a little more stable over bumps while under power, but the truck will be a little more twitchy during hard acceleration compared to the AE mounts. Honestly, the difference is hardly noticable and nothing to worry about. I run RPM rear mounts because I wanted 0-degree toe mounts, which AE doesn't make yet.

[atm92484_3]

Format, the Duratrax .12 won't fit unless you cut the crankshaft. I don't have any experience with it, but considering its a stock kit .12 engine, its probably nothing special. Think of it this way though, if you can get that crank cut, anything is better than nothing.

When I started also I was always breaking parts. Don't let it discourage you man; learn from your mistakes and it gets much better.

Feel free to post any of your GT q's here.

good luck

[ScottJ]

I agree with atm. This sport is not as easy as it looks. But you will get better. When I started I had a traxxas rustler. I think I broke every single part on it atleast once.:( But with practice and patience I got better. You will too. Just keep driving and learn from your mistakes and I promise that you will get better and you will definately have tons of fun. Just remember that slower=faster and faster=broken. These were the rules that I learned to live by while learning to drive. Keep going and we hope to hear from you again soon.

[format13]

Thanks for the help Scott and Atm! I'll see if my dad has a tool to cut that crankshaft, or i'll save up for a competition engine. The good thing is my engine still runs good as long as i gun it and don't stop, the bad thing is that today i stripped 4 of the teeth on my spur gear. Any suggestions on how many teeth i should get to get more acceleration (just a bit more).

C:\PMS\My Pictures\backward.jpg
This is how i broke it!

[ioNcasT]

Get RPM's metal spur gear =)

BTW - your picture isn't working . . .

ryan

[atm92484_3]

Format, look into getting some Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gears. They are still plastic, but they are a much, much harder plastic than the stock ones and they can withstand more heat before melting. I've had the same one on my GT for the last year and a half. Its getting to the point now where the teeth are showing wear, but the gear has yet to strip.

[KIPPY]

hey will the rpm body mounts fit a new ftgt also if you buy the blue one's do they come with a rpm decal please reply

[KIPPY]

also how much fuel tubing does th new ftgt come with

[KIPPY]

also how much fuel tubing does the new ftgt come with

[loco_gt]

yes, the rpm mounts will fit, and I think that it comes with 3 feet of tubing. If not, fuel tubing is really cheap.

[GTracer22]

Yeah the blue ones come with a decal :rolleyes:

[Sponsored By Tyco]

Well my robinson spur has lasted awhile. The only reason it stripped was because the spur screw came out and the other one losened and i was doing donuts in a ant hill.

[new2it]

Gokou,

You have run the X12 and the MT12, which is more powerful? How much fuel did you run through them before they wore out? I would like a comparison. Please help?

Thanks
David Root

[KC10Chief]

I was out racing last night and the track was REALLY sticky which was great for traction. Anyways, I came off a jump and braked to spin around a corner and hit the gas and my right rear wheel was jammed! I figured my CVD pin was coming out and I was screwed for the rest of the race. A marshaller brought it to me and I took it to the pits and was just about to shut it off. I grabbed the rear wheel and rotated it backwards and then let it go and it started moving again! It all seemed normal. I drove the rest of the race and still managed to come in 2nd. The CVD pin was fine and the only thing I can think of was that there was a big glob of mud in the wheel keeping it from going forward. Any ideas on this? Matt

[new2it]

Probably just a rock, it happens to me all the time.

D. Root

[Leinzey]

It looks like I'm getting a FTGT for Christmas (WOOHOO!), but now I have to decide on what engine I want to drop in there. My LHS has a .12 CVR with the slide carb and pre-cut shaft for only $120! The only problem is the slide carb, which I don't really want to hastle with (although to save $30 over the rotary carb I can deal with it:D ). The other engine I am considering is the Rex CR 12. Here's a link to it: http://www.ace-hobbies.com/Engines/mugen/cr12.html. I'm not concerned about ordering from AceHobbies since I'll be getting an OFNA starter box and some HUDY tools from them soon. Nor am I concerned about cutting the crank since I already have a Dremel and everyone says it's so easy. What I am concerned about, however, is that I'll have more power than the GT can put down. What should I get? Thanks

[Leinzey]

Sorry, I included the period in the link. Here's the right one: http://www.ace-hobbies.com/Engines/mugen/cr12.html .

[Sponsored By Tyco]

I personally think you should get the CV-R it's alot easier to tune and its OS quality. The Rex is alot harder to tune but probably will have more hp then the cv-r. like 0.05 hp

[ilovemygt]

<img src=http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=rc10racer&album_id=33001&image_id=2&courtesy=1>

[ilovemygt]

wow i finally found out how to post pictures with out using the attach file

what do you guys think of my gt

[violator757]

looks good man

[atm92484_3]

I'd get a 12 CV-R if I were you Leizney. I have one and its a great engine. Its practically set and forget aside from its great powerband. You can also consider the 12 TR. I also have one of these and it kicks.

[Jwelch]

Yup, the CV-R is a great engine. The TR is a beast too...

LOL OMG!! Anyone checked out the Traxxas forum lately??
T-Maxx Freestyle Forum... hehehe

I can't believe the post wasn't banned yet!


-John

[jmans_14]

Hey guys, i have a Rc10GT RTR version. I am looking for some rear rims that will fit my truck. Can you make any suggestions? Also, i am replacing the piston and sleeve in my engine, i have the piston and sleeve and i am going to buy my connecting rod. What else do i need to complete the new piston sleeve connecting rod combo? Thanks guys! RC10GT RULES!!

[Jwelch]

1. Any wheels w/ a 1/4in rear axle. (Some chrome RPM wheels, and Associated's Lite Rear Truck Wheel. Make sure the former is in 1/4 version.)
2. That'll be all
3. You're absolutely correct!

-John:D

[ioNcasT]

All this talk makes me hungry - any of you have any pit shots off your car? Post'm! I want to see some hop-ups!

Thanks

Ryan

[atm92484_3]

My FT GT.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/032/Mp/Wb/5Q/rD62155.jpg

[Gokou]

New2it: sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Honestly, I could tell no difference in performance between the MT-12 and the X-12. Both were non-turbo versions. Only internal difference between the two motors is that the X-12 has small "seperators" in the side transfer ports. Theoretically they speed up mixture velocity, but I couldn't tell a difference between the two. I will say though that the RB's piston/sleeve was tighter than the MT-12s when new and took longer to break in.

As far as fuel usage: the MT-12 is still going pretty good after 6.5 gallons but is starting to get a bit tired. the piston/sleeve is starting to loosen up. It isn't worn out by any means, but it's on the way out. I can't tell a difference in performance yet, but the motor does like loading up at low-rpm; it never did in the past. My X-12 is pretty toast after 6 gallons. It was still like new after 5 gallons and going strong, then one afternoon about a month ago I ran a gallon through it straight in a day with lots of sustained high-speed operation and some rather abusive donuts courtesy of my brother. Even though it was pretty rich (only running 230-235F even after 10-15 seconds of WOT) the sustained high-rpm abuse really took its toll.

If you had to pick I'd get the X-12; the heatsink head is a bit bigger than the MT-12, plus the piston/sleeve is a bit tighter out of the box. If you want crazy power I've been told to try one of the new 5-port X-12's. Supposedly the fastest production .12 (not counting "tuner" motors). The standard X-12 is already verging on too much power for a GT; without a carb restrictor my GT will spin the tires at almost any speed even on asphalt, or, if it has traction, it will pull wheelies like mad. I can only imagine what the 5-port would do. I'd recommend a rotary carb simply because it takes a bit of "punch" out of the motor. As a plus, they're a bit easier to setup, too.

Either way, you can't go wrong. The MT-12 and X-12 are both great motors. I'm very interested in trying one of the OS .12 TRs. As of yet I haven't seen one run or driven a GT with one, so I can't comment.

And for Ioncast... random pic of my FTGT.

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/gt_rhf_profile.jpg

More pics HERE.... (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/)

[Siro]

Anyone got any movies of there GT?

[TRXboy]

man i need to get a new pic of my GT...its diffrent now....all i can say....;)

[Gokou]

Siro, I have movies of abusing my GT Here... (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_vids/) Enjoy!

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by TRXboy
man i need to get a new pic of my GT...its diffrent now....all i can say....;)

Its in one piece now? :confused: :confused: :D

[Slow_Joe]

Well ive almost finished building my team version but ive run into a slight problem with the linkages. The ball cup that attaches to the carb keeps popping off, should i just buy a new ball cup or wha? i tried to pinch it in w/ pliers but still no luck. when it goes in theres only a little pop, not what it sounds like when i pop my other ball cups in.
seems ive joined the biggest thread on this bb, wErD!

[Slow_Joe]

dern and now that i justt looked at it my servo is going the wrong way. when i press the trigger it closes the carb , and vice versa. IM hopeless plz plz help :confused: :confused: :(

[baddoggprix]

Slow-Joe, on your transmitter there should be a switch to reverse the servos, just find the one for the throttle and put it into the switch in reverse. I did this on mine.

[Slow_Joe]

hey dude thnx- i was all in a huff cause i need to get a new ball cup (i assume so, but no one answered my other q yet, lol) and i was fiddling and saw it was going the wrong way and .... i completely forgot about the servo reversing doohhicky. confounded computer radios!!!!! lol

[TRXboy]

ATM- i acualy said what i was gunna do...your gunna have to dig for it tho....its sweet dude..to sweet...

[baddoggprix]

I didnt encounter that problem. All I can think of is, is it the right ball cup or ball. The GT is covered by ball cups. I replace most of mine with ballends. They may take alittle longer to get off, but the wont let go while racing.:D

[Slow_Joe]

yah- now that i look at it the ball cup itself looks a lil bit damaged ima just order a new one.

[Siro]

Hey people, its me again. I just wondered what the cheapest price any of you could get for a Factory Team RC10GT w/OS .12 CV-X. I will have to pay shipping too, i live in the UK and i really wanna buy from the US cause its amazing how much cheaper stuff is there, and if i do get it shipped will that be safe?! i mean a m8 says his RC10GT was stopped in custom's or something.

[atm92484_3]

TRX, now that you mention it, I do remember you saying something about your GT awhile ago. Guess I'll have to look around later.

Siro, www.towerhobbies.com is probably your best bet for the GT. Price out a FT GT without an engine and get the engine separately since 12 CV and CV-Xs are really cheap right now. If its less that might be your best bet.

[bolink]

I got my RC10GT used from a guy in canada,and didnt have any problems with customs,but it did take 2 1/2 weeks to get here,i kinda thought the guy had ripped me,then it came,lol :D

[new2it]

Ck your PM:rolleyes:

[bolink]

I got my feul,glow plugs,and glow ignitor today,so i could run my first nitro RC,a RC10GT ,it was a blast,i could only run 1 tank through though,it ran fine even with that tamiya FS-15 engine in it that i got for $25,lol but i think that will be the next thing i buy is a new engine,since its already got alot of hop ups,so what engine do yall recomend,it doesnt need alot of power since im just bashing,but its needs to be a very reliable engine that will hold carb settings well and will last along time with much abuse,and cost around $100

[ioNcasT]

For under $100, with out a doubt - the OS CV which is only $90. If you want the pull start, get the CV-X ($114). They have a little over 1/2 h.p. But, they are reliable, strong, and cheap to rebuild. That's my 2 cents.

Ryan

ps - if you do get it, make sure you get the (s) short shaft version for the rc10gt.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

My FTGT

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Rc1oGtMaN&album_id=34968&image_id=0&courtesy=1

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Rc1oGtMaN&album_id=34968&image_id=3&courtesy=1

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Hey, Gokou, how'd you get the pics to work on this new forum? Is it just me or was the old format easier to use?

Mark O.

[pylonkilla]

Guys, Im completey new to RC trucks/cars completely. I just got a RC10GT and RC10T.
I want to get some On Road rims and tires...where should I look on the internet for ones that will fit?
Thanks

[GTracer22]

Try Tower Hobbies (www.towerhobbies.com) orStormer Hobbies (www.stormerhobbies.com) they should have what your looking for.:D

[ioNcasT]

wake up guys

[atm92484_3]

ttt

[pylonkilla]

Thanks for the responses guys. I have yet another question...

I have some stuff that is broke on my RC10GT. Take a look at the picture:
http://www.netsnapshot.com/users/1287/images/PBLbq8CoBQIAAAdTO-A_1287_21.pjpeg
I think the "B" is a rear hub carrier? PN#7365
But for the "A", what is that? what part number is that? And do I need a new one of those ball thingys(not sure of the name)that connects it to the rear shock brace? Here is a link to the RC10GT catalog listed on the site:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/catalogs/catgtx.pdf

Thanks once again!

EDIT: also looks like my rear axle??? is bent...what PN for that?

[TRXboy]

Pylon- DUDE i dont even know what to say, that is one old school GT..really old, Diffrent rear Arms and white spur (how you got it to last that long with that chassis difies me) I dont think your rear bulkhead is broke, you did lose a turnbukle tho, and you rear hub is busted, also looks like your driveshaft is done, i say pick up a set of CVD's, some upgraded Hub's, a RPM bulk, and a titanum turnbukle kit...

[loco_gt]

Pylon, I'm in agreement with trx. You need a set of CVD's, a new turnbuckle, and a set of rear hub carriers. Good luck.

[Jwelch]

wow, that's one GHETTO GT man....

[atm92484_3]

Thats one OLD GT.

The CVD kit is 1008 (its for the 1/4" axle bearings which are what you have, but they aren't as durable as the 3/16" axles).

[TRXboy]

Ohh man winter tear down went down today...parts that need replacing...

1. New screw kit-simple as that
2. New gas tank-Old one Cracked
3. New chassis(already got that covered;) )
4. New bearing kit
5. New bell cranks
6. New CVD's
7. New C-Hubs
8. New Front bulkhead(cracked down the center)
9. New hingpins - simple as that

- Not to bad, could be worse, Still a heafty price but oh well....

[pylonkilla]

haha, oh crap...I thought you were talking about my car!!
I was wondering how you thought the gas tank was cracked! :D

[GTX]

Man that is a lot of pages, CRAP!!! Well, here is a pic of my truck, I just got it, it is new, older tub chassis....

[GTX]

OK, maybe it will work this time....

[GTX]

Forget it, here's the link:

http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0007.jpg

[atm92484_3]

Nice truck GTX.

[pylonkilla]

I found a manual for the GT. So I have a bearing set up vs a bushing set up?

Since I have a bearing set up I need a new universal axle? If I had a bushing set up Id need a dogbone?

[GTX]

Thanks, unfortunately, I spend all my money on my cars and never any on my PC so I can't ever post pics on the board!!! :p

[ioNcasT]

Did you take the picture off the site? I just tried to view it and it came up as not available on yahoo. Haven't had a chance to check out the beast ...

ryan :D

[pylonkilla]

Just put a order in with tower hobbies:
Socket Head Cap Screw 40X 1/2
4-40 Thin Nuts
E-Clips for 1/8 shaft
Truck outer hinge pin
Nylon Ball cup 4-40
Rear shock turnbuckle
Truck turnbuckle 2.620
Roll Pin for stub axle
U join spacers
Truck ball bearings 1/4 X 3/8
Truck universals
Rear hub carriers 0 degree
Pro line speed hawg ll 2.2 truck(2)
O.S. #R5 Glow plug

Some money in just some small parts..but it should get my nitro GT up and running!!!

BTW, what is a CVD?

[violator757]

cvd= constant volisty drive (sp)

[GTracer22]

A CVD is kinda like a universal driveshaft, except it transfers power faster and is rebuildable.(S/P?)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

velocity

[violator757]

thanks for the spell check ;) :D :p

[pylonkilla]

Okay, so the univerals that I ordered arent as good? Its what my truck had from the factory, didnt know if they were interchangable..
Are they?

[pylonkilla]

More questions:
My recoil starter wont go in all the way. And I cant get enough pull to get the car going...what am I doing wrong/how to fix?
Thanks

[KIPPY]

hey guys need some advice i just ordered some parts for my gt[list]
1 mip light wheight flywheel
2 hitec 5605 servo for throttle and brake
3. hg tranny brace

what do you think of the flywheel and when building my gt what color lock tight should i use
:confused:

[Jwelch]

blue, its meduim strength

[GTracer22]

I use red because my truck has a historyof loosening flywheels and grinding them away.

Pylonkilla- Feel free to send me a PM or a E mail.

my e mail and AIM is Punksk8boarder22@aol.com
:D

[pylonkilla]

Got you on my AIM list. My name is BLOWNFIVOH

Anyway, took the recoil off, found the spring to be broken.
Ive rigged my drill up to the nut to start it. Just need to charge the glow plug starter thing up...
Hope just to get the engine running by the end of the week! haha:p

[Skateboarder]

Hey, well it been I while since Ive posted anything and with college I have not been even able to drive my gt in almost 2 months.
So I was just wondering who will be driving there gt's this winter?
Oh and heres a pic of my gt having some fun in the sand.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Skateboarder&album_id=32483&image_id=12&courtesy=1

[ioNcasT]

Woohoo .. my rc10gt will be here in 14 days!

ryan :p

[atm92484_3]

I doubt I'll be driving my GT this winter very much. Ever since my friend moved away (only RC buddy in the area), I haven't been driving anything very much since its dumb driving alone.

[loco_gt]

Living in California, I'll be driving all winter. I just got done running a tank through!:D

[bolink]

ill be drivin mine in the snow :D

[FTR]

just got the ole cvr. those engines are a !@#$%^&&* to start for the first time but after only 1.75 tanks its really getting smoother cant wait till tomaro to finish breakin and have an outlaw drag race with a couple of my budies at the school track. hell i be up agaist hpi racer mt's nitro rustlers ft gt's ( thats what i have) and i think this one kid witha losi may show up. engine wise os tr12's, trx pros, cvrs, cv's, mt12s, and a hyper 21 ( one of the gt kids is a richi boy and got a 21 conversion kit) so how do you guys think ill do: the trx no prob, hyper 21 no problame cause i have driven his car has no traction whatsoever, the tr12's and the mt12's will sertenly give me a damn good run for my money!

[Got Speed]

Are light weight flywheels worth it? (idle vs. low end)

Anyone race oval?

Where do U get an ofna throttle linkage?

Can U put big bore diaphrams in associated shocks?

Thanx

[Jwelch]

1. from what I've heard, they do help.
2. not me
3. Tower has the linkage for about 7 bucks (just got one and I love it!)
4. I just bought those too, and they make thhe shock PERFECT. Buttery smooth.

-John

[FTR]

i run that flywheel

heck its so durable

and a lot of low end kinda makes the idle kinda scetchy but for 15 bucks at my lhs it was worth it!!

[Skateboarder]

Ok, well what would be better, the light weight flywheel or the heavy wheight one. Also, is the mip 4 in 1 clutch worth it.
Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Personally, I'd keep the stock flywheel unless you have a reason to switch. When you put a lighter flywheel on, it lessens the time it takes the engine to rev up but you also must raise the idle. If you run a heavier flywheel you're idle can be lower but it won't spool up as fast.

The MIP clutch is almost a must for the GT. At first I didn't think I'd like the MIP but after getting it on I can say that I'm never going back.

[OmegaTrac]

it looks like I might not get a Team Losi XXXnt, so I might just have to settle FOR ANOTHER TERRIBLE ASSOCIATED.

[Jwelch]

Dude, that was NOT cool!

Whats terrible about AE? Is this because your truck didn't handle like an F1?? Well sorry bub, but you're not gonna see much difference with the Losi. Learn to drive before you do that again :rolleyes:

Common sense would also tell you that dissin' AE in te RC10GT forum isn't wat you would call "jeenyus material"

[OmegaTrac]

Dude, dont get me wrong I think Associated makes great stuff. Its just that my first truck was a GT RTR, and I was racing with it, and well I just havent had the best luck with parts. Then my dad got his XXXnt and I have been racing it, within a month of racing I have only broke a cheap ball cup.

I guess I phrased that above post wrong.



How much would a FTGTw/OS.12 CV cost with like a cheap FM radio?

[WHITESTER1]

Need setup tips for CRCRC!!! HELP!!!!

Can someone who races @ CRCRC help me out, with some setup tips! Thanks!!!

[M 5]

Originally posted by ioNcasT
Woohoo .. my rc10gt will be here in 14 days!

ryan :p

Ryan,

The RC10GT may not arrive in 14days. Post office is very busy during Christmas and maybe it will arrive at the end of the year...sorry for the bad news.:(

[M 5]

Originally posted by ioNcasT
Did you take the picture off the site? I just tried to view it and it came up as not available on yahoo. Haven't had a chance to check out the beast ...

ryan :D

you have to copy the link and paste it in a new browser.

[Siro]

does anyone actually drive there FTGT on some serioues off road terrain?! all i ever see is people using them on road....

[FTR]

I do i love the woods and hill climbing and the master of all ROCK CRAllING

[pylonkilla]

Help RC10GT Stripped Clutch Gear...

I posted this in the general questions section, but most thought I should come here.

I started a few days ago getting a used GT running. I got the engine going good, got the suspension all worked up.
I actually got to run the car this morning. After about 15 min of running I stripped the spur gear. I believe its because I found the engine mount screws loose as can be and the engine moved forward some..

But I want to know if I have the clutch(or would I call it the diff?)NOT set up right, can it cause a stripped gear?

If I had it too tight, what problems can result other than a engine that bogs off the line?
I have a 66 tooth gear on now, should I stay with that , or go with the 64?
Pretty much a stock GT with the original .12 TNT dynamite engine.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by pylonkilla
Help RC10GT Stripped Clutch Gear...

I posted this in the general questions section, but most thought I should come here.

I started a few days ago getting a used GT running. I got the engine going good, got the suspension all worked up.
I actually got to run the car this morning. After about 15 min of running I stripped the spur gear. I believe its because I found the engine mount screws loose as can be and the engine moved forward some..

But I want to know if I have the clutch(or would I call it the diff?)NOT set up right, can it cause a stripped gear?

If I had it too tight, what problems can result other than a engine that bogs off the line?
I have a 66 tooth gear on now, should I stay with that , or go with the 64?


Most likeley your gear mesh was too tight.

1- loosen the engine mount screws(if you have already tightened them)
2- put a strip of paper in between the clutch bell and the new gear
3- push the engine back again tightly
4-tighten the engine mount screws
5- take out the paper

If your talking about the part on the spur gear that is the slipper clutch. The diff is the bottom gear in the tranny that allows the outside wheel turn faster than the inside wheel. You can have it set tight but it depends on the conditions your driving in.

It depends where and how your running it. On oval tracks you want to have a higher top end but the 66 is good for running off road and all.

[pylonkilla]

I would think the gear mesh was too tight. Last night I had the spur gear off and was able to slide in on and off without adjusting the position of the engine(I didnt know it even adjusted at that point).
Ill use the paper method when I get the new one thanks :)
Ill stick with a 66 then...Ill order a few of them in case I mess up again!

[nolanr0413]

Does anyone know how to put a rear swaybar into a rc10gt. I think i heard one guy talk abouti but thats all i know. I would really like some ideas or pics , mostly pics so i could duplicate the setup myself. I hve a high bite track and would like a sway bar.

[Rotorranch]

Pylonkilla........if the motor mounts were loose, that is what wasted the spur gear! Get a new spur gear, and set it with the paper method mentioned abaove. Make sure the motor mount screws are tight, and use a little Loc-tite on the screws.

The slipper clutch is sort of a "shock absorber" for the tranny. It allows a slight bit of slippage in the drivetrain, instead of hammering it. I set it to just slightly slip when the tires are held still, and the spur gear turned by hand.

BTW....where'd you come up with that user name? Are you another autocrosser?

Rotor

[pylonkilla]

Cool, Ill use your technique for setting the clutch. I think it was a combo of loose motor mounts, and the clutch being too tight, I was going heavy on the throttle when it happened, and the slipper wasnt giving any leway..

Yup, Im a autocrosser! I have a 1992 Supercharged Mustang Coupe that I like to autocross and dragrace.

[ritchies rc10gt]

could somebody jelp me out with instructions on rebuilding my dif?i lost the ones that came with it.i think i put it back together right but i want to make sure.if somebody could explain it or scan the page in the manuel and email it to me that would be great thanx.
grandprix1966455@aol.com

does anybody here need a set of dif rings for a TC3?i bought the wrong set for my gt.i had a set of new rings that a friend gave me so i used the thrust bolt,spring and balls from the TC3 set.i anyone wants them you can have them.

[Skateboarder]

I tried my GT out in the snow today with the paddles on. After I finally got it started(my glow starter was not working well) I took it out. Man with these tires its soo fun, I could go through some pretty deep snow with out getting stuck. On my second tank of fuel the streering servos started to act up, I though that it was just packed up with snow so I just putted around until the tank was empty. So I brought my truck inside and started to clean and dry all the snow off my truck(yes all my electronics were in bags). When I was satisfied that my truck was drive I wanted to see how the servos was doing, but when I turned on the switch nothing happend. I even changed the batts in the truck but it just seemed dead. I really dont know what is wrong with it. Im going to let it dry out some more and hope for the best.
:(
Thanks

[Skateboarder]

Ok, after a couple hours of drying, all my electronics are working again. YAY:)

[GTX]

Shrink wrapping them helps!!

[atm92484_3]

Ya shrink wrap the servos and look back on page 14 and 18 to see my instructinos for installing a receiver box on the GT. It really helps keep water and dirt away from the receiver.

[jacknjul]

Just bought 2 new RTR GT's for my sons for xmas, and am having trouble breaking in one of the engines. I adjusted the idle to just below the point of actually making the car move, and am not running too rich as far as I can tell, but I can only keep the car running for about 2 minutes without the car stalling. Is it possible for these cars to vapor lock? Each time that it stalls, I have to "re-prime" the engine (blowing through the line from exhaust to gas tank) and then it starts quickly, but I can't keep it running. The other on started on the second pull, and went thru 5 break in tanks without stalling. Also, if I remove the little "governor" from the carb, will that make the engine that much harder to keep in tune?

Thanks,
Jack

[CGV]

atm- i remember you installed the tmaxx radio box a while back, did you have to drill any holes in the chassis? im thinking of getting on for the winter.

EDIT: lol heh, i looked up and theres the answer to one of my questions, but still wondering if it required any mods.

[atm92484_3]

Nope. You just need to cut a little bit off of the stock receiver plate.

[CGV]

ty. dernit tower is so frustrating, they have it in their list but its ou of stock or something, grrrrrr!

[no_time_to_grow]

hi me name is barry,

i have read the last 33 pages and too bad i didnt read this b 4 i bought my rc10gt rtr......i have upgraded almost every part......just finished putting a stinger on, my os cv-r, sounds pretty good. I have one question hoping some one will reply

how do i get the motor to idle.

sounds funny right, but i really need some help on this......tired of going to LHS cant walk in with out spending some $$$, please save me a trip.:D :D

[Jwelch]

nothin special here, just my 800th post. I wanted it to be in the best forum around :D

[atm92484_3]

Sweet; my tip for the receiver box got published in the February 2002 RCCA. Hehe

[heavyd]

Originally posted by jacknjul
Just bought 2 new RTR GT's for my sons for xmas, and am having trouble breaking in one of the engines. I adjusted the idle to just below the point of actually making the car move, and am not running too rich as far as I can tell, but I can only keep the car running for about 2 minutes without the car stalling. Is it possible for these cars to vapor lock? Each time that it stalls, I have to "re-prime" the engine (blowing through the line from exhaust to gas tank) and then it starts quickly, but I can't keep it running. The other on started on the second pull, and went thru 5 break in tanks without stalling. Also, if I remove the little "governor" from the carb, will that make the engine that much harder to keep in tune?

Thanks,
Jack


It sound like it is to rich on the bottom end. Start again with the settings at 2 1/2 turns out for both mix screws. Don't pull the restrictor out until your boys get alot of drive time in. The cars will scream with out the restrictor, and you do have to readjust the carb, make them richer without the restrictor. Watch your temp.

[Eric Gharakhanian]

Hey skateborder my guess is that the cause of your problems came from your switch. You should try to seal it using some sort of silicone sealer, it works really well and comes of easily.
By the way merry christmas everyone. :D

[Skateboarder]

Thanks, but it ended up being the receiver got wet, once it was dry it was ok again.

[jacknjul]

Finally fixed!! After many hours of frustration, I've finally got the second rc10 running. It turns out that the nipple coming off of the exhast was faulty, and had never been punched through. This prevented some of the exhaust from pressurizing the gas tank, thus causing the car to stall after a minute or so and needing to be reprimed.:D :D The truck runs awesome now (after going through 5 glow plugs in the break in due to this) and I think the boys are going to have a blast racing them on xmas morning.

[loco_gt]

Jacknjul, you have two very lucky sons!

[jacknjul]

Yeah, they are pretty lucky......but I get to play with them too!:D

[ilovemygt]

i wish my gt was running but its not :( it need a new engine since my cvr blew up like 3 months ago its just been sitting in my garage ever since. after reading all these post makes me want to get it running even more but i cant get it for x-mas because i already got a dirt bike. maybe ill get engough money from my grandparents to buy a cvr

[atm92484_3]

Love, you could always get a 12 CV from Tower Hobbies. They have the 12 CV (s) for $52 right now.

[bolink]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Love, you could always get a 12 CV from Tower Hobbies. They have the 12 CV (s) for $52 right now.

Yep,i just sent a order form out for one,but theyll probly be out of stock b4 my MO gets there :mad: :mad: why are they selling them so cheap?oh and will it fit in my Pull Start RC10GT,i heard someone say a few months ago i would need a diffrent flywheel,mounts,and header is this true?i hope not im broke now,lol and will it hurt to break it in in 30* F deg weather?

[atm92484_3]

I think the sales for the CV line of engines has dropped dramatically, especially with the introduction of the 12 CV-R, 15 CV-R, and the 12 TR. Tower is just trying to sell them off. Hey I'm not going to complain though since CV engines are still among my favorite engines eventhough they aren't the most powerful.

[pylonkilla]

Is it common for motor mounts to come loose on GTs?
I have a older one(box style chassis), and I have burnt up 2 spur gears because of it..

Would loctite be appropriate on these bolts?

Damn the car was running GOOD!!! Luckily I ordered a extra spur gear when I broke the other...

[TRXboy]

Yes, definetly use loc tite on those bolts, i would recomend getting the upgrade kit as well, not worth keeping the old chassis.

[bolink]

whats wrong with the old chassis,i have the older version,the only thing i dont like is some screws are hard to get to,so i drilled some holes in the side so i can put the allen wrench through them to get to those screws,my only complaint with the GT are those countersunk screws in the chassis that take the 1/16 allen wrench are always stripping out on me!!most of mine have slots cut in them with a dremel so i can use a screw driver,ive tried the blue alum. screws,thier even worse in MHO

[pylonkilla]

I have heard(in my short time as a RC'er)that the old chassis flexes too much. Probably more heavy.

It flexes pretty bad where the motor mounts as well as the diff mounts..

Exactly where it SHOULDNT flex too..
I dont need any more trouble with aligning the spur gear with the engine than I already have.