Associated RC10GT Forum v3.0

[TRXboy]

pylon - that is the exsact reson to get a new chassis, even with the engine mount's bolted down with lock tite, chances are you will still strip a spur with that chassis.

[pylonkilla]

Check this out, the reason why I stripped a spur gear is because one of the engine mount allen headed screws broke!
The 2 back screws, one was out, and the other was broken. I had to remove the engine to use some vice grips to unscrew the rest of the bolt. I bet when one screw came out it put all the pressure on the other, combined with some chassis flex, heat from the engine, and SNAP!!:eek:

I got it all back together...cleaned up the engine and all. Loctited every screw/nut I un did..

Time for a new chassis!:D

[bolink]

the way i see it,if it was a major problem AE wouldnt have started producing it with that chassis,when i have some spur problems ill get the conv. kit,but till then i see nothing wrong with the chassis

[bolink]

oh BTW i still have the original spur to it also,its half stripped because a tiny pebble got cuaght in the clutch and messed half of it up,but the chassis had nothing to do with that,ive only had the truck for 3 weeks,i got it used without a engine,and had a tamiya engine in it till i get my .12CV,but i think it was bought in '96 i didnt ask the guy,and i have no idea when they came out,but i think thier was some magazine clippings he sent me from RCCA about the GT and they were dated '96 and '97,but i may be wrong,i lost them!!it does have new (not original) a arms,but thats all thats really been replaced,exept like bearings,regular miantence type stuff

[ioNcasT]

Well, I just got my GT in the mail yesterday from a trade I did. Factory Team RC10GT in very good condition, but it came with a Novarossi CX12P that was broken in the wrong way I guess. I got it working this morning, but I think it was running too hot (due to the lack of Novarossi experience I have) and it shot the piston and sleeve. That's another $80. So I swapped out the engine with my old 12CV-X from my old beat up Team RC10GT, great compression, and it started right up. But, I put the blue FT manifold on the CV and I think it's leaking a little bit. Time for another run to the LHS to see if they have some spacers ....

Just wanted to let you boys know! =)

Ryan

[FTR]

i need you opinion

well i have a ft gt with a 12 modifyed cvr ( i modifyed the engine)and enough hopups to put you to heavan


my problame is my exast i don't know what to do heres what i have


a dynamite long speed pipe
, dynamite header,
and a factory team header

i was thinking maby the stinger

what shout i do i have $77

[TRXboy]

Hey i have nothing against ya using that chassis, i would acualy ratehr use that style if it didnt flex so much.

as for the exsaust, dont go with the stinger, you land on the back end you are ether 1. stalling out the engine because the stinger got cloged with dirt, or you would crack the engine block(which i did), also the stinger dosent alow oil to escape, causing heat problems. i say keep the stock header, port out the exsaust port so it maches, then get a Picco "Pro" pipe. I use it, meaty sound, smooth power.

[atm92484_3]

For you guys running the old tub chassises, get the Trinity TK1200 brace. I just got one for my Nitro DS (same chassis as the tub GT) and it significantly strengthens the rear end. The only down side is its $33 but IMO its well worth it.

[M 5]

Originally posted by ioNcasT
Well, I just got my GT in the mail yesterday from a trade I did. Factory Team RC10GT in very good condition, but it came with a Novarossi CX12P that was broken in the wrong way I guess. I got it working this morning, but I think it was running too hot (due to the lack of Novarossi experience I have) and it shot the piston and sleeve. That's another $80. So I swapped out the engine with my old 12CV-X from my old beat up Team RC10GT, great compression, and it started right up. But, I put the blue FT manifold on the CV and I think it's leaking a little bit. Time for another run to the LHS to see if they have some spacers ....

Just wanted to let you boys know! =)

Ryan

Hey, its good to hear that you received the truck. I hope nothing broke.
The novarossi engine wasn't broken in yet. Are the piston and sleeve broken? What happened?
I hope what you paid is what you get.
Just to let you know the letter you were suppose to send has not arrived yet.

[cow on wheels]

im gettin factory team gt 4 krismas an i was wunderin wot GOOD engine i could put in ther (£150 tops) has to vahe lot of speed an good torque 4 wheelies.
n e suggestions????????

[TRXboy]

Cow - i take it your not from the US? im not to familiar with your currency but i'll tyr my best, a good engine with more then enough power and reliability is the O.S .12 CV-RX, it runs around $170 here, great engine, more then enough power for the GT, and can lift the wheels with no problem. Hope this helps, Merry Christmas!

[CGV]

hmmm last time i checked that was around 220 american dollars (???)

[TRXboy]

Tower has them for $190, around me they are $175(just called)

[Eric Gharakhanian]

my rx can't pull wheelies what gear ratio are you runing? I have the stock ratio. By the way does anyone know if futaba is going to discontinue the 2 pc and 2pcka for the newer ph series. I hope not:mad:. And finally has anyone tried out the phantom engines (Good/bad/okay). They clam to have pretty good power and rpm for their $. Cow on wheels if the phantomes are any good they would be a good bargin.

[cow on wheels]

i woz thiunkin bout gettin fantom an been searchin 4 engine website for a week! no luck though.
so yesterday i decided to email the website with the electric motors an all that and they sed that ther building new site and sorry 4 inconvenience. the website will be runnin in 2 weeks so ill check then.
lot of people say fantom r good.
by the way im from england an my name is named after my sister!

[TRXboy]

Eric - I run the CV-R, Not RX, i figured they would be the same, gess not, im running 16/65 gearing, might be the slide carb and cluch set up i have tho.

[Eric Gharakhanian]

Trx the cv r and rx are basicly the same engine, they have the same Hp rpm, the pull start only adds minimal amount of power loss. If you think about it all a pull start adds is one bearing. However the slide carb I hear does make engines more punchy, I have the rotary. My sliper clutch is set tight, I haven't touched the centrifical clutch from the stock form. Oh well I bet I could pull wheelies if I gave it a higher gear ratio but in my mind their is no need for me to pull wheelies, I was just curious, because you said they could pull wheelies and I wondered If something was wrong with my engine. So I guess cow should get the slide If he wants Wheelies.

[atm92484_3]

Eric, if you want to pull wheelies (don't know why though) or have better acceleration, I'd reccomend a MIP 4n1 clutch. Its the best thing you'll ever buy for your GT.

[TRXboy]

Yeah i know they are the same thing, jsut saying, se the #2 setting on the MIP cluch, and a slid carb will lift yuor front end more then you want, trust me..

[cow on wheels]

i dont wont to waste my money on a starter box for a slide carb, so im jus gonna go with a p/start.
wot p/start engine would be able to lift the wheels with the car being a totally stock factory team gt (lol! hehehehe!)???????????

[Got Speed]

Cow On Wheels- I think it should because my RTR GT wheelied in the grass. why you would want it to ?????? me

[ioNcasT]

Merry Christmas boys! Hope you get out of the house and have some time to run your gt's! You better, because I have already run three tanks this morning! =) Have fun ..

Ryan

[atm92484_3]

Cow, whats this with you and wheelies? You do realize that the car cannot steer if the front wheels are in the air. :D

[new2it]

Can't run the GT here, we have a foot of snow!

Everybody have a merry Christmas!

David Root

My Nitro Rustler will do wheelies with an OS 12 CV Max. I'm sure my GT with an RB X12 would too, but I want to steer.

[Leinzey]

I just got a FTGT, and started assembling it today, but stripped the tool used to tighten the ball ends. I sure do wish they would make those things out of metal...but enough of my complaining. So I got to thinking about getting some really good tools, and the Hudy tools seem to be the best our there. The only problem is, I don't know what sizes to get. Could you help me out here? Also, what is the best place to get them? And I just wanted to say that I love the design of the GT. It's built so much better than my NMT. I can't wait to start driving it.

Merry Christmas, everyone.

[atm92484_3]

Thats great to hear Leizney. You are about the 5th or 6th person I know about whos had a NMT and a GT and said that. Anyways, for the sizes for the allen drivers, get .05", 1/16", 5/64", and 3/32".

[Got Speed]

Has anyone ever bought an aluminum or steel brake for their GT? Do they exist? I thought I saw them but I was not sure.

Thanx and Merry Christmas

[ioNcasT]

Woooosh .... I must've run at least 6 or 7 tanks of fuel through my gt today. That ol' CV keeps pulling through, although its one way bearing may not be ... I'm suprised - I'm almost done with a gallon and I know I've run at least a half through this piston/sleeve before, and things are still running well. I leaned it out a bit more but kept the steady stream of blue smoke coming on acceleration. * It's one of those moments where everythings working and you're crossing your fingers until five minutes later when something goes wrong. Arg, still got to get another one way bearing for my novarossi engine ... also should look toward rebuilding both the CV and the NOVA. Oh well ...

ryan

[Leinzey]

I knew about the the size of hex drivers as it says what sizes are included on the first page at the bottom, but thanks. The tool I stripped is the molded plastic tool that tightens the ball ends. So does anyone know what size hex driver I will need? I could complete the kit with needle nose pliers, but that takes forever and marrs the ball ends. Thanks.

[atm92484_3]

For that nut driver, I've been using a 5mm socket to install the ball-ends. I know its not the exact size since AE uses standard units but it works.

[cow on wheels]

i like wheelies!!!
me and my frend used to race our tamiya king blackfoots and have wheelie contests to see hooo could pull the biggest wheelie.
then he got 20 turn motor an whipped my a$$ with it
so now i jus wanna trash the cheap electric thing!!!!!!

[Eric Gharakhanian]

leinzey, while you are getting your tools you might want to pick up some good lock nuts and replace them with the cheep nylon nuts that they use on where the shocks atatch to the shock tower and the nuts used on the front wheels. I don't know if it's just me but I always seem to strip the treed inside the nylon nuts. Thats just my opinion though.

[ilovemygt]

hey guys look what i got yesterday .12 tr(s) and a dynamite inline pipe i only put about 4 tanks though it and already it seems as fast as my cvr and it set very rich

<img src=http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=rc10racer&album_id=33001&image_id=7&courtesy=1>

[mi mafia]

Hello all, i have a rc10gt factory team. I can't seen to get the push out in the corner's. I have tried different springs, front and back. Currently i have green front and silver back, also tried green back. I used every combination of spring spacer's both front and back. I have loosened the slipper until it slips way to much and i have rebuilt and adjusted the diff. I run the proline ribbed front tires and fuzzy's rear. The track i run on is clay that is turning more into blue groove. The losi's can turn on a dime with no push at all, they are the majority of trucks. My truck no matter what i do starts on the inside and by the time i exit corner it's all the way outside. The only way i have been able to get around the hairpin turns is to lock the brake, sliding the rear around than hitting it coming out of corner. If anybody has any tips i would greatly appreaciate it.

[atm92484_3]

The first thing you want to do is harden the rear springs (which it sounds like you've already done but a 10wt or 20 wt heavier oil wouldn't hurt either). Next you can add weight to the front. I had some left over weights from my airplanes and I zip tied them to the front body mount (see pic below). It works pretty well actually.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/013/Zm/OG/qT/zB67867.jpg

Love, thats a great engine. I just got one in my Nitro TC3 but I still have to break it in. It seems like its going to fly.

[Leinzey]

Hey, where did your T-Maxx radio box go atm? Is that an older picture? Oh, and Gokou, awhile ago I asked you about making a graphite receiver plate like the one on your truck. If you could make one for me, how much would it cost me? My E-Mail is Leinzey@aol.com . Thanks. And thanks for the help with the socket driver. I'll have my GT up and running by the weekend, I can't wait. :D

[atm92484_3]

Ya that pic was taken before I installed the T-Maxx box.

Heres the pic with the box. You can see the weights more clearly.
http://wsphotofews.excite.com/032/Mp/Wb/5Q/rD62155.jpg

[new2it]

Generally stiffen up the rear and soften the front. Arms level front and back? What kind of tires are you using on the front? Ribs are the best, Dirt hogs would be not so good for racing. Good luck

David Root

[jacknjul]

Holy smoke!! Just put MIP 4-1 clutches and bearing kits on the RTR RC10GT's that I got my sons for xmas, and now they flat out haul (plus I removed the carb restrictors)! These things are amazingly fast for RTR's, I had thought that the stock .15 engines in these things were supposed to be dogs? Was I wrong with this perception, or did I just get lucky (twice)?

Jack

[atm92484_3]

Nah. The Associated .15 engines are actually really good engines, even for RTRs.

[hitstuff II]

I have a question about the ball diff on the gt. Last night I took mine appart because i was noticing that it was progressively getting rougher. I cleaned it out and found there was some sand between the diff rings and the output shafts, while I was cleaning it I noticed that the greese that was used was a very thin greese, what greese should I use when I put it back together. Should I use a normal black greese or do I have to buy that special stelth lube. Thanks in advance.:D

[cow on wheels]

i only have thick grease, so when i need thin stuff, all i do is spray on some oil and it thiuns it down.
always works

[atm92484_3]

For the ball diffs I wouldn't use anything but the Stealth Diff Lube. Its just not worth risking it considering it would take atleast $40 to replace the diff and all of its parts if you mess them up.

[Got Speed]

Aren't the only differences between the FT GT and RTR GT that the FT has graphite arms and towers, ti turnbuckles and hinge pins, bearings, and unobtanium(s) shock shafts?

[Trucks]

mafia, I run on a clay track in the summer. I think that the problem is the fuzzy rear tires. If they are m3's then they are hooking up too good for your track, try using m3 bowties on the back. If that doesn't loosen it up enough try some kind of m2 tire. let me know how it comes out I may come up with other ideas to try.

[atm92484_3]

Speed (just to sum it up), the RTR has a lower grade chassis (and its shorter), cast nose brace tubes, molded shock towers, the RTR fuel tank, the old body, AE tires/rims, blue shocks, dogbones, and bushings. The FT has a better chassis, graphite shock towers, a Proline body, AE rims and Proline tires, teflon coated shock bodies, bearings, CVDs, unobtanium shock shafts, blue aluminum brake hex, blue pipe/manifold, titanium turnbuckles, and a blue servo saver tube.

[bolink]

huh,i thought i had a RTR GT,but now im not shure as mine has plastic brake hex,grahpite towers,bearings,CVD's didnt come with a body (i got it used) so how long is the wheelbase on a old version FT GT,and how long is it on a Old version RTR?

EDIT:it has proline stubbie T's rear and associateds in the front,and 3 piece rims,so what version do i have??

[atm92484_3]

Look at the nose of the truck. If it looks like the nose on my truck (Click to see pic of my truck (http://wsphotofews.excite.com/032/Mp/Wb/5Q/rD62155.jpg)), then you have either a FT, Team, or Team Built. If it has a larger black bumper, then its a RTR. The RTRs also have a cast nosebrace mount while the Team, FT, and Team Builts have the molded composite.

[bolink]

i cant get that pic to work,only about 2/3 of it loads,so i cant see the front

[jacknjul]

What spring combo's should I use to stop nose diving off of jumps? Our local track has a wicked switch-back right at the landing point of a huge jump, so you can't give gas in the air to bring the nose up. This is not an issue for me when I run my T-MAXX (doesn't jump as far), but this is really kicking my 11yo sons butt. If he goes for a little less gas, he can't clear the landing ramp.

Jack

[Turboduck02]

Hey guys, well for Christmas i was lucky enough to get a Trinity Reciever Pack and a Duratrax Intellipeak Charger to charge this sucker because that's what tower recommends. Well there's one problem, how the heck am I suppose to charge this guy? The charger didnt come with a connection of any sort to charge this battery, it only came with the standard tamiya connector. I went to Radio Shack and they didnt have anything that would connect to the other end. Any ideas on how to charge this guy? :( Thanks

[hitstuff II]

actually its not as hard as you think, get a male tamiya connector and a female universal connector and connect them with some wire. All of this stuff you should be able to get at your lhs. Hope this helps.

[Got Speed]

I saw a brass brake disc at my track. Has anyone else seen this or have this? I wanted to know if you use the standard brake shoes? :confused:

[heLLo deRe]

hello rc10gt fans...


i have a rc10gt rtr uvmah own and it came with the ae .15 engine. does anywun kno if i can drop this engine in a hpi rs4? it seems to me that this engine is so fast...i wann put it in my rs4.


peace

[atm92484_3]

Got Speed, I still use the standard brakes but what you saw might have been the Credenzi (sp??) brake system. I've heard good things about these.

Hello, no the AE 15 will not fit. It has an integrated pilot shaft on its crank but essentially it is still a short shaft engine and Nitro RS4s require standard length cranks.

[new2it]

Going to Columbus RC club in Jan to race the winter gas Championships. Got an RB X12. Just tuning it up making sure everything is right and hope I don't brake something. This works out well, becuase when I am done it will be already for next (this) years racing. Can't wait!

[Turboduck02]

Sweet, You know what feels good? Having a freshly painted body put on your clean GT and knowing it looks good :) Can't wait to race and recieve compliments :)

[GTracer22]

Man im still waiting for my picco/trinty .12 to come in! Ive been waiting 3 weeks because it was back ordered. It should ecoming in any time now. This sux!!:mad:

[speedydave]

OK, I know that the FTGT comes with *all* the hop ups, but that's just from AE, besides the normal MIP CVD's. I am wondering what hop ups you guys would reccomend for racing with the FTGT. Thanks.

[atm92484_3]

Dave, the FT GT is pretty well equipped but these are a few of the small hop-ups I'd get to make the truck a little more user friendly:

MIP 4n1 Clutch
Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gears (best $6 spur gears you'll ever buy)
T-Maxx radio box (look back on pages 14 and 18 to see how I installed mine)

<hr>
Along with these, its nice to have some different shock oils, springs, spur gears, and clutchbells so you can tune the truck. Oh and for about $30 you can pick up a set of Dynamite hex drivers (there is a set of 3 then you have to buy the 5/64" one separately). I just got a set and I can't believe I put up with those crappy allen wrenches for this long.

<marquee>have fun</marquee>

[Skateboarder]

Hey, I got a mip 4 n 1 clutch but Im having some trouble putting it on. In the instruction it says to hit the flywheel pins down with a hammer until the clutch will fit flush with the flywheel. So I did that but now the pins are sticking out on the other side so the flywheel cant fit flush with the engine.
So Im not sure if I shouls just cut the little ends off or do something else.
Thanks

[loco_gt]

skateboarder, cut 'em off.

[atm92484_3]

Ya cut or grind them off. Its well worth the time spent.

[Turboduck02]

Have any of you guys tried the Losi Dirt Spec Tires? I did this weekend and they really worked well on my track, i was totally surprised.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Dirt Spec....smelly...

Mark O.

[Turboduck02]

only for the 1st month :p

[Skateboarder]

Cool thanks guys, my clutch is all installed now.
Now I cant wait to try it, my friends T-maxx does not stand a chance.:)

[speedydave]

ATM, thanks for the info. I already have some AE cars, and all 6 of their hex screw drivers, as well as the nut drivers for the front wheels, rear wheels, and ball ends/small nuts. I have one question though. The size of the glow plug driver, is it 8 mm, or 5/16? I've heard both, but I'm not sure if either will work, and I already have a 5/16 driver, so it would be easier if I could use that. Thanks.

[hitstuff II]

The glow plugs are 5/16.:)

[format13]

I finnaly ditched my old stock engine that bever started so i bought a trx .15 pro w/ short shaft and pull start, im also getting the electric starter soon. They should have a two speed conversion for the gt, then i would have a mini t-maxx.:)

BTW how do i post images that everyone can see? people were complaining that they could'nt see my pics! thnx

[treedr]

I recently put a megatech m16 in my rc10 and it rips! This motor is rarely used by other members of the forum so I am questioning my decision to. Any pros and/or cons?

[Spinner2]

Pros----- Torque...... gobbles of torque, CHEAP for a 1+ HP motor......

Cons----- EATS fuel...... .16's consume lots of fuel

[TRXboy]

I run a CV-R with 16/66 gearing, dosent wheelie from the start, once the dag break lets go BOOOMB front end comes up and we got some ballz, im also running a ported associated header and picco "pro" pipe. MIP cluch has no weights in it, slipper cluch is tight, running 30% trinity gas(can thank RCCA for sending me that gallong of 30%, my engine's dont wanna go back to 20% now)...

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

i got my GT but i have no motor :(

http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?userid=supersac187&album_id=46562

Check it out tell me wat u think

[RC10GTMark]

Hey everyone, im back, well for a little bit. Just thought I would drop in and say hey.

I still got my GT, haven't ran it in a while though, been busy with work school and my car. I dont recognize many of you, besides nick and mark o.

Ill stop in again soon.

Mark T.

[PnP 420 Racing]

Ok guys i have a question. I am rebuilding my GT this winter for oval this summer and i need to ask,what would be a good Engine for a 300ft.,dirt oval? I need really good top speed but i need it to handle. Also the motor has to be under 300 dollars. Any suggestions? Also,do you think the DirtHawg tires would be good for wet to dry red clay? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you

-Mike "Crash"

[Leinzey]

I have a cv-r with a slide carb in my GT and it rips. I'm sure the .12 tr is even faster, or any nova-based engine is good. I've heard both good and bad things about picco's, but I've never had any experience with them, so I can't comment.
I've heard the pro-line Gladiators are good for wet, loose conditions. Fuzzies or Bowties are good on just about anything, but Dirt Hawgs wouldn't be the best choice unless you want a tire that gets decent (but not great) traction everywhere. They do seem to last forever, however. Ask the other racers at your track to see what they use. That would be your best source of information.

[lowbugit]

Hey Guys, Im new to the forum and have enjoyed the info. I dont really have a vehicle preference as I have a losi truck and a GT. I just love to race either one. I have a problem with the GT it seems to struggle turning it understeers badly. I know that if I use my old oval ideas I could stiffen up the rear suspension and soften the front to get alittle more front bite to help with the turning. That would however take the rear bite away and I already do not have alot of that to play with. I feel that some of the problem is in the front adjustable servo saver. If I loosen it some then it has way toomuch play and if I tighten it then I think it restricts the throw. All radio setting are correct using XR3. Using proline edge fronts. Any i8deas where to start.

[Leinzey]

I'm not sure about the servo saver, but to reduce untersteer you can add some lead to the front of the chassis to make the front wheels dig in more. ATM has done this, so I'm sure he can tell you more about it than I can.

[lowbugit]

Yea, I thought about trying that especially since I think that is the only thing that my losi has on my GT. The losi has much more weight in the front and I think that is why it turns better. I was hoping to solve this someother way so not to get the truck where it just wants to be nose heavy while jumping. If I could do this without adding the weight the I believe it would be a supperior jumper to my losi because it wouldnt be nose heavy. thanks for the reply.

[hitstuff II]

Pnp 420 racing, have you looked at the new Fantom engines thay have 1.15 hp and they turn a very fast rpm. I don't own one but I have heard nothing but good things about them. Also about the dirt hawgs, for hard packed clay somtimes stricker 2's work but it has to be smooth and hard packed.

[Got Speed]

Well the fastest cars (and best drivers) at my track are using Novarossis.

I am getting into oval myself and was wondering what I should do to my RTR GT to make it more "racey". It is a semi-wet clay oval. I already have a front graphite tower, MIP 4 in 1 clutch with the weights in it, new bowties in the back and edges in the front, proline body with spoiler, RPM ball cups, non pull .12 spd, 70 wt. oil in all the shocks, green springs in the back and silver in the front, and a cirrus(sp) cs-80 steering servo. What else should I do to it? What else should I get to make it an FTGT? What is the difference between non pull and pull start flywheels?

Thanks

[rcracer38]

I have a Factory Team GT. I have Titanium Hinge Pins, Titanium turnbuckles, RPM ball cups, MIP clutch, all the "standard" hopups. I want to improve the handling/driveability. What do you guys suggest that I get? The motor is an OS-CVR. The tires are LOSI IFMAR Pins - red compound, which is what everyone else is using at our local track. I have 2 JR servos, which I can't remember the model #'s, but they are good ones. Paid over 100 bucks for steering servo, and about 50 for the throttle. I have a KO Propo MARS radio.

To be totally honest, I am not the best at driving. I have only been doing it for about 3-4 months. (started late spring/early summer '01), and right now it is too cold to be driving outside. Maybe I should "slow" the car down until I can handle it better? Should I change the gear ratio? It is stock now. What about upgrading to a RR steel spur gear. I know that is heavier and that would slow the car down too. I have also been looking at the Crescenzi Brake System. Does anyone know anything about this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...

[Leinzey]

You can buy a carb restrictor to slow things down a bit, which would be my choice. Or you can adjust the radio so the carb doesn't open all the way. But above all, practice.

[atm92484_3]

Hey Mark, whats up? Good to see some of us older guys are still here.

Rcracer, the first thing to help your driving (and I think you probably know this ;)), would be to practice, practice, practice both your tuning and your driving. First off, if you want to slow the 12 CV-R down you can always put on a larger spur gear. I'd highly reccomend you look into buying maybe all of the odd or ever Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gears (from probably 60 to 67 and you can change th clutchbell if needed). That way you have a full set and you can play with the gearing to make it suit you and your driving. You can also try adjusting the linkage so the carb cannot open all of the way. Another thing you can do to add more steering (like Leizney said above) is to add weights (look in the airplane section of your LHS for ones with the sticky foam tape on the back.) For any of you with any questions on how I installed the weights on the front body mount with zip ties, check out page 14.

[Jwelch]

Hey guys, after Xmas break, I'm back. Got an XR3, and it's a great radio. I got a Trinity NIMH pack, too. Unfortunately, I blew my diff. The thrust nut just broke completely in half after 5 tanks of hard running in grass. Second time having the nut break right apart. Man, I had the nut socked down pretty tight too. Oh well, I needed a rebuild anyways.

Got Speed, that brake disk made of brass that you were talking about is made by GPM. GPM's distributor (and a friend of New Era's) is a shop veyr close to me. Personally, I like the metal-disk idea, but with no pads on the calipers, I'd be cautious. A metal on metal contact would create heat, and might slip. Maybe you could rig up some pads and grind the disk down the fit between them. That would be the ultimate brake setup.

-John

[Trucks]

pnp 420, m3 bowties thats the tire of choise.

first thing to di if you cann't get the truck to turn is put softer springs, either silver, green, or black it that order.

[Got Speed]

Jwelch- Thanks. I thought of doing that but I wasn't sure if it had brake pads you had to buy separately.

[mississippi]

do any of you guys run a 64t spur gear? If so did you get it to mesh correctly with the clutch bell? mine wont. it barely touches it, what did you guys do to make it fit?

thanks

[PnP 420 Racing]

Trucks, What would be a good engine for our oval? Also,i need to know what kidn of tires and foams i should put on front too. I went through and took the whole truck apart and cleaned it up and I'm going to work my way up from there this winter. Can't wait to race again.

-Mike

[Maxx_TEK]

Finally!!

An Associated RC10GT fourm. Sweet. I just got my RC10GT RTR a few days ago and was wondering if there is a cheap bearing kit out there for it. Ive seen the "full" sets at Tower Hobbies and they are 80 bucks! Is there a set of bearings for the wheels and stuff for under $30?

First timer here.:D

[atm92484_3]

Mississippi, I tried to run a 56t spur and a 22t clutchbell on my GT and I had the same problem. Its because of the nps engine mounts most likely. You can either get the ps mounts and flywheel so the engine sits higher and closer to the spur gear, or you can get a larger clutchbell.

Maxx, great choice on the GT. For bearings, Dynamite makes a set for about $40 and Duratrax has a set for around $30. IMO the Dynamites are a better quality bearing over the Duratraxes and they are worth the extra $10.

[Railman]

Mississippi, I run a 64 t spur with a 14 t clutch bell! What I had to do was to slightly elongate a few of the slots with a dremel (or small round file works). The hard part is the relief for the screw head though.
Hi Mark! I've been busy myself. I havn't been able to get to any races for ages. Life just seems to get too compicated anymore.
Hope things are going well for you.

Rcracer, Try to learn how to tune your Mars for better throttle feel. Use a negative curve on the throttle to give a better feel for the power in the turns. A negative response curve will require more trigger movement coming off idle, no change at center, & faster throttle feel after 1/2 throttle. By the time your at 1/2 throttle your ready to rip anyway, so may as well sue the travel where it helps to control the power. Also try slowing the steering servo at the center of the travel (70% for me with a JR4735) for just about 1/8 of its turning arc. It makes it much easier to hold a fine line in straight line acceleration, & helps greatly to eliminate that darty feel on straights.These radio adjustments will help give you a smoother driving style...at least it helps me! By the way, we have 3 Mars radios, & love them.
I would add about 3/4 oz to the front end ... I favor the right side with mine. How much weight you need depends a lot on how everything else is set up. Battt pack weight is a real big factor since it's behind the rear axle. If your running 5 AA batts you need more weight to counter them than if you run a 5 AAE/stuby cells, or 4 alkalines. Theres about a full oz diff in these packs!
I would highly recomend learning all you can about your radio.
Just one more thing, One of the most overlooked things is the brakes. They make more differance in turning than most people realize. When they are right, your truck will feel more like an electric truck, when their wrong they totally screw up the weight transfer when slowing down turning. Hope this makes sense, Good luck.

Atm, keep up the good work!
Joe

[jacknjul]

maxx tek try the following links. First go to
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX3436 and get all of the dimensions that you need. Then go to www.kamandirect.com and use the dimensions in the search window. I haven't bought a complete set from them (found them too late) but I have replaced quite a few for MUCH less than Tower or LHS.
Good Luck!

Just noticed that Tower doesn't give the third dimension so I guess you'll have to measure the individual bushings. Sorry!

[Trucks]

pnp420, I would get the proline edges m2,they turns a little more constent than the m3. when you get the back tires take out the foams and throw them as far as you can. they don't last long, so order some losi firm foams to replace them.

[rcracer38]

Railman, thanks for the advice. I will try some of that out. I am using a battery pack in the back so hopefully I shouldn't have to weight it down there.

You said brakes. Do you recommend something other than the stock brakes?

I will try not allowing the throttle to open fully either by adjusting that with my radio.

[Maxx_TEK]

Thanks ATM and Jack!

I just place my orderat dynamite for the GT' sbearings and also used KamdenDirect to buy some diff. bearings for my T-maxx. Both of them should be riding smoooth in a few days.

Once again, thanks
:)

[Siro]

Hi, i've been interested in a RC10GT for some time now as some of u may of read i was going to get the FTGT. I was gunna get it from towehobbies and have it shipped to me here in teh UK (this plan was scrapped after i failed to see the 30% import tax we have). The prices here mean i can't afford the FTGT but instead i can afford a RC10GT RTR or RC10GT Team Built, the team built has all the stuff of the FTGT that i hate on the RTR (Proline Tyres, Proline Body, Bearings) I am v close to ordering me a RC10GT TB but i have 2 questions.....

1). The RC10GT TB here comes with a Dynamite 12S Engine, is this a good engine? is it good for the RC10GT? Fast? Reliable? Easy to Tune?
2). On the Associated page with the comparison table it says that the Factory Team RC10GT, Team Kit RC10GT and the RC10GT Team Built come with a flat, heavy-duty racing chassis. Is thie accurate? does the RC10GT Team Built come with the same chassis as the FTGT?

Thanks for your help and here are the options available to me....

RC10GT RTR
or
RC10GT Team Built w/Dynamite 12S
Hitec 645 Servo for Steering
Hitec Standard Ball-Raced for Throttle
K&N Air-Filter
Fuel-FIlter
Gallon of Blue Thunder 20%, Fuel Bottle

[gedertr]

I am currently looking at buying a new engine for my hopped up GT. I will only buy OS. Which one should I get? .12 CV-R, .15 CV-R, .12 TR? I want the TR because it looks like the latest and greatest, but I have read it was designed for on-road. Will it work better than the CV's in the GT? Also, if I want to race at ROAR or IFMAR events do I have to have a .12 or do they allow .15's also? Your help will be beneficial.:cool:

[FTR]

you need a .12 i am curently running a cv-r 12 with a hyper slide carb, mip backplate, mip flywheel this set up is nearly un controlable for me

but if you want unncontrolable power get the tr12

[Leinzey]

Ok, I'm having my first problem with my GT. After putting on the flywheel and assembling the clutch, I can't put on the E-clip to hold the assembly together. There are two gaps in the assembly. One is between the flywheel and the engine, where I can still see part of the gold collet. The other gap is between the clutch bell and the flywheel. I have a MIP 4 in 1 clutch, if that makes any difference. If someone has a close-up picture that would be great. Thanks

[Leinzey]

Well, it seems now I'm having another problem. When you turn one wheel, the other is supposed to spin in the oppsite direction, right? Well, mine turn in the same direction...help?:confused:

[Leinzey]

I figured out the clutch problem, all I had to do is trim the flywheel pins, but I'm still cofused about the diff. Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Siro, I'd get the Team Built (eventhough I dispise prebuilts and RTRs). The Dynamite 12 is a great little engine. IMO its probably one of the best bang for the buck engines out there. Yes the Team, FT, and TB all include the same chassis. The only difference between the TB and the Team are the TB has blue annoed shocks, dog bones, Proline rims, and a prepainted body.

Gedertr, I'd reccomend either the 12 CV-R or the 12 TR. I have both and they are both awesome engines. Its up to you but either way you will not be disappointed. BTW the 12 TR is much more of a racing power plant than the CV-Rs (bigger carb mainly) and its designed a lot like the Novas and Nova derived engines.

FTR, you can fit all small block engines in the GT (this includes the 15 CV-R and 15 CV).

Leinzey, its normal for there to be a gap between the flywheel and the crankcase where the collet is visible. I'm guessing you didn't cut down the flywheel pins before you installed the MIP clutch or if you did, you need to take more off. In order for that clutch to be installed properly, the pins must be shortened. Once you do this, you're clutch will go together perfectly.

You clutch is probably still installed properly. I'm guessing the diff is just tight and there isn't enough resistance in the drivetrain to "activate" it and cause the wheels to move in different directions. Try holding the brake on and doing it and see if it works then.

[Leinzey]

Well, I tried holding the brake spinning one wheel, but when I did that the other wheel didn't spin at all and I heard a clicking noise every time the wheel went around once. Time to disassemble and try again?

[hitstuff II]

Hey siro I bought a team built gt and I think that it is great. However my team built kept throwing digbones (they would fly out while driving) so what i did was I put some more rubber spaceres between the output and dogbone, I got the spacers in the plumbing department at a hardware store, they are really rubber gaskets. I Just thought I'd tell you so that you would never have to search your front lawn for a dogbone again. Havefun with whatever gt you do get:D

[Siro]

Yea, i hate RTR's and Pre-Builts too, u learn so much from building your truck/car but as i said the FT and Team Kit's are too much but the TB is just right, i don't understand it though i mean the only differences between the TB and FT kits are very small things, these things though result into saving a fortune....

I'm pretty much already sold, i'd like some more info on the Dynamite 12S before i commit though. Thanks.

[atm92484_3]

Leinzey, ya if you've never driven it, try taking it apart and reassembling it, making sure to build/adjust it as the manual states. If you've driven it though, it might either need relubed or rebuilt.

Siro, the GT should have included some springs to put in the axles to put pressure on the dogbones to keep them from flopping around but what you did is a good substitution. You can also use a piece of fuel tubing or some o-rings.

[Got Speed]

Finally I almost have my RC10GT RTR up to FT specs. It takes so much more money than I ever realized to upgrade. I wish I would have gotten the FT to begin with now. Besides I hate the transmitter that comes with it.

[Siro]

does anyone know if the HPI MT mesh rims will fit onto a RC10GT?

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

i got a rc10gt and the guy told me it was a ft gt and i dont think it is i have a feeling it is a rtr gt that has been upgraded alot is there is way to tell . i know the rtr has a different chassi but wat is the difference thanks


Here are some pics

http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?userid=supersac187&album_id=46562

[ilovemygt]

After breaking in my .12 tr ive realized it needs a different gear ration iam running 15 65. do you think a one tooth bigger clutch bell would help?

[ilovemygt]

NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR

thst isnt a rtr chassis you can tell buy the flywheel cut out and the bottom trans brace

[atm92484_3]

Ob4, that defiently isn't a RTR. It looks like a Team GT with some hop-ups on it.

[ScMc]

Im planning on getting a new engine for my gt. Im considering the os cvr (p). Do you need to cut the crankshaft for it to run in the gt or does the crankshaft come the right size in the box? Also, is this engine reliable? do you have to tune it every time you run it? What ere some other engines that you dont have to cut the crankshaft to be able to run them in the rc10gt? thanks

[GTracer22]

Hey I just got my picco.12 now all Ihave to do is cut the crank shaft. Which cutting wheel should I use?

[new2it]

If youy have a dremel tool, use the cut off wheel, that is the thin "grinding" wheel. Make sure you measure where you want to cut it , then put the engine in a heavy plastic bag with the crank sticking out or plug all holes (carb, exh..) so grit doens't get in and ruin your engine. Put the nut on, cut the crank where it needs to be, and backoff the nut. This will remove the burr left. A small file might help clean it up. Please cut it in the right spot, you can't put any back if you take off too much. So Remember

Measure twice, cut once!

The right crank should be ordered, so you don't have to cut it anyhow.

Good luck
David Root

[atm92484_3]

ScMc, the pilot shaft version (signified by a (P) after the name) will not fit the GT. Order the short shaft version (signified by a (S) after the name). This will fit with no mods to the crankshaft.

[ScMc]

thanks atm! so i get the cvr with the "s" after the name and it will drop right in and i will not have to cut the crankshaft? has anyone had any experience with the cvr? is it easy to tune? does it keep its tune? is it reliable? thanks

[FTR]

ScMc: i run a cv-r and i barly tune it every saturday. all i do to tune it is i just make a very minor high speed needle change depending on the whether. most of the time i don't even touch the needles for like 2-3 weeks . so if you have even a minor amout of tunning experience you will be a-ok. every day i clean my air filter and oil the engine (i use aro even if i didn't runthat day this just ensures me that 1 second on my box and my cv-r will be hummin) so go cv-r or go home

[ScMc]

thanks ftr! Does the team built pull start rc10gt come with a flywheel, clutch nut, clutch shoes, and a clutch bell? thanks

[FTR]

i believe so

bye i am off to bye a stinger (i was stung buy my friend) i will give a write up once she is runnin

[atm92484_3]

I also have a 12 CV-R in my GT and I love it. Its a great engine. Like FTR said, you rarely have to adjust the needles and its powerful. Yes the Team Built ps does include all of the clutch parts.

[treedr]

don't buy a stinger. It looks cool, but it throws the weight off too much. It will steer like crap with it on

[ScMc]

has anyone tried a .15 cvr in there rc10gt? I was also wondering, what would i have to do with the backplate if i wanted to use the hg yank eliminator? does it come with an adapter or something? thanks

[atm92484_3]

You need a pullstart engine in order for the Yank Eliminator to work. It uses the starter shaft the recoil starter grips on.

[FTR]

help if i should not buy a stinger that what should i buy

[ScMc]

whats the difference between these two?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBZ18&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBZ17&P=7

[Maxx_TEK]

Are there any Ball bearings in My RC10GT RTR?

[GTX]

ScMc-
I really don't know!! Did you read it all and check if there was a difference?

Maxx_Tek-
I don't think there are any bearings in the RTR GT.

Guys, I have wanted a GT since I saw one, and now I have one, but I have been bitten and infected with the T-Maxx disease and now that I have a T-Maxx I want to sell my new GT, before I have even ran it!!! It's new, and almost a team, and I am selling it for $150 rolling, and $200 with my CV-R, do you guys think that this is fair or should I just keep it? Of course you guys are gonna say keep it, you love yours! Well, I dunno, I really want to sell it and buy a 15 CV-R and swap parts with my 12 CV-RX, to make a 15 CV-RX and a 12 CV-R. That will rip in my T-Maxx!!! To tell you the truth I haven't run either one yet!

[Siro]

I'd run em both before you started thinking about selling one IMO.


I said it before but do any of u GT owners actually go off-road with your GT? how durable is it? I will be bashing with a m8 who owns a NMT and we will only be going off road and it's not packed down ground its basically a wood! Will it handle it?

[GTX]

If it is really rough, that is what a MT is for, if not, then your GT should rip right through it. The only thing that will stop a GT is if it high centers and the terrain is way to big for it.

[Got Speed]

GTX- You're right I say keep the GT. I have a GT and a T-maxx and I use the GT for racing and have the T-maxx for bashing and occasional racing.:D

[atm92484_3]

ScMc, the only difference between the two is the color of the crankcase and the head. On the one labeled "natural", its heatsink and crankcase is a natural aluminum color.

Siro, all I do with my GT is bash but I plan on racing in the spring. The biggest thing that stops the GT is when one of the tires unloads and all of the power goes to it. This is due to a lack of traction on one tires. If you get a set of Proline Dirt Paws, the truck will be nearly unstopable.

[FTR]

well my mom decided that the stinger was to much and i should not buy it. i said i need a new shock tower and pipe and manifold and this has all that. she said fix your old stuff end of dicusion.


this sucks all i have is crappy dymate system and a rtr shock tower what side pipe should i get and manifold.

[Siro]

Thanks everyone

I was gunna get some new rear tyres when i get my RC10GT cause the ones that come with the kit aint what i'l need.....

I was going to get some Dirt Hawg's cause they're a good all road tyre and even good on tarmac but do you recommend the Dirt Paw's more for some good off roading? Also will they fit the stock rims? what about HPI MT Mesh Rims? and will the HPI MT Mesh Rims fit a RC10GT?

[GTX]

Maybe I will keep it! :D but I will have three cars to keep up with-

My T-Maxx
My GT
Tamiya pan car

I haven't even got the pan car yet, maybe I can trade something for it, I dunno. It's an antique, I really need an engine for my GT, so I need to get a 15 CV-R and swap parts, making a 15 CV-RX in my Maxx and a 12 CV-R in my GT for racing, I dunno, maybe I will just wait for it to come out, then get it.

[violator757]

i havent posted here in a while so he i am lol i havent been able to drive my gt in a while i got some help from atm the other day about my spur gear and then it started to snow now its stoped snowing and its raining lol ughh it dont get any better than that huh? anywhooo i have added a boost bottle to my gt (just for looks) it a ofna bottle the crome one look nice, i have also up graded my shock oil to trinitys 45 weight oil but i have not yet been able to test it out and i have also added 4 1300mah rachargable ceels to the dry reciver pack i got tired of the damn regular batts i hope to add a trinity reciver pack soon thats it for now ttyl

[atm92484_3]

Siro, the Dirt Paws will fit the stock rims. I wouldn't reccomend the HPI rims though. IMO you need good hexes for them to work right and not wobble and this means modding the hexes and rims to fit the car. I'd just get rims meant for the GT.

[Siro]

Ok atm, twas just a little idea i had :) I might just dye the stock rims and get another 2 to mount some dirt paw's or dirt hawgs on. What would you go with and why though? dirt paw's or dirt hawgs?

[violator757]

siro i got some dirt hawg and they work great IMO for asphalt and street driving conditions i also use them on grass and dirt and the work pretty good just a little info

[Siro]

1 more last question for today :)

Has anyone ever tryed to fit a body other than the ones proline make on there GT? i dunno about everyone else but i thing the Proline GT bodies look disgusting, yea i know its a racing truck so you can't emphasise on the looks as much but GOD DAM.......

In particular i'd love to put a HPI F-350 body on, HPI Dodge Ram body or the Standard HPI MT-1 Body. Has anyone every done this?

thanks

[treedr]

Who makes a bigger fuel tank for the GT. I would like to have one with a primer pump on it also. My M16 eats the fuel and I need more run time. Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Siro, if you're offroading get the Dirt Paws. The Hawgs just don't have enough tread for offroad.

Siro, take a shot at mounting a body from HPI and see how it goes. I agree Proline bodies don't look the best but I've found HPI truck bodies don't seem to like staying in one piece (much like their trucks).

Treedr, I don't know anyone who makes a direct fit tank but it may be possible to mount a tank by another company by drilling a few holes in the chassis. Look around and see if you can find a tank thats small enough to fit in the area on the GT chassis yet holds more CCs.

[ScMc]

does anyone run masher 2k's on their rc10gt? i was thinking of doing that and using a 60t spur and a 14 tooth clutch. does this gearing sound good? also, what do you guys think of the .12 cv-x in a rc10gt? is the engine reliable? easy to tune? fast? thanks

[treedr]

Siro, I have a pro line dodge ram for my gt and it looks pretty trick.

[Siro]

Yea i agree, the HPI bodies are made from quite thin lexan.... shame cause the actual bodies are very good. If i couldn't have a HPI body i'd certainly go for a Atomik body, they look so good. What i have in mind though is a very simple pain job, metallic red maybe with a simple masking effect down the side with a metallic silver.

I love how it looks on the HPI bodies, i haven't seen a ST body with this colour scheme on but i sure hope it looks as good.
http://www.steel-dragon.co.uk/siro/pesonal/nmt3.jpg

[GTX]

I also think that some of Pro-Lines bodies are kinda ugly, but they're OK, I guess they went for aerodynamics instead of looks. I think I will have my GT running pretty soon. I would have to wait until the 15 CV-RX comes out in April because I want to put my 12 CV-RX in my GT(which I am keeping thanks to everyone here) and put the 15 CV-RX in my T-Maxx. I guess I could slap a 12 CV-X in there or maybe a 15 CV-X, or maybe even a Picco, I would have to buy it used, I don't want to spend that much on a mill that I will just turn around and sell after the 15 CV-RX comes out. Does anyone know of the problems(if any) of the earlier tub chassis GT's? That's what I got, it's brand new, just built. Looks really good though.

[atm92484_3]

Nice GT GTX. If you get a more powerful engine like a CV-R, you might want to consider investing in a Trinity TK1200 chassis brace. It basically stiffens the rear end of the tub chassises so they don't flex under the force of the more powerful engines.

[GTX]

Thanks, I was thinking that the rear end would flex, and I would get a brace, I just didn't know which one was the best. I think I will also upgrade to the newer chassis and make it a FT GT, and maybe after a while stick an O.S. TR engine in there when I race, it just depends. I got a really good deal for that GT. I traded my Cybiko for it. :D I can't wait to have both of my vehicles running.

[hitstuff II]

Treedr, I think, not sure, but i think new era makes a 125 cc for the gt. Siro I don't recomend dying the rims, I did, (3 pairs) all of them became weaker and more flexable, thats just my opinion though.

[hitstuff II]

Treedr, I think, not sure, but i think new era makes a 125 cc for the gt. Siro I don't recomend dying the rims, I did, (3 pairs) all of them became weaker and more flexable, thats just my opinion though.

[FTR]

guys i need help with a pipe and manifold i have no clue what to get i have 15/66 gearing and a 12 cvr non pullstart the kit is a ft gt. i was thinking maby a paris turbo pipe and a factory team non full start header. the ough the stinger just looks and sounds so f-in cool ( sorry had to say that)

[DLF]

Has anyone by chance found a way to fix the stock pipe? The thing will turn or pop out of the coupler if you even look at a wall on the track. The hook type of attachment to the chassis sucks to me. I was thinking of maybe a pipe similar to the way my Mugen is. It has a wire going through the tip of the pipe with a set screw. Does anyone know a good pipe like that? Or a way to fix the stock one?

Thanks

Dana F

[gedertr]

Anyone know of a good header to use for the new OS .12 TR engine? I am thinking of buying either that or the .12 CV-R.

I had great luck with both of my OS engines .12 CV (s) and a .15 CV (s). THey are easy to break in and tune and last forever if you care for them properly.

I am a big fan of proline bodies and haven't tried any others.

[ScMc]

does anyone run masher 2k's on their rc10gt? i was thinking of doing that and using a 60t spur and a 14 tooth clutch bell. does this gearing sound good? also, what do you guys think of the .12 cv-x in a rc10gt? is the engine
reliable? easy to tune? fast? thanks

[gedertr]

I have not tried the masher 2000's on my GT. They area pretty "tall" tire that would give you a slightly higher top speed than say a "square-fuzzy" tire. gearing to 60-14 also will give you a slightly higher top-speed than say a 66-15 (stock). If you are after top end speed and not "out of the hole" quickness you are doing the right things. It may, however, make your low end take off's kinda "boggy". My 2 cents...

The 12 cv-x is just like my 12 cv but with a pull start. lets just say I have owned mine for four years and love it. I am on my second piston and sleeve and I run an O'donnell head, everything else is stock and has probably seen many many gallons of Blue Thunder 20%!

[marvelousmatt]

i am thinking about getting a gt. i dont know if i should get the RTR, or a team built. what would be better. what would be a good engine, and radio for the team built.

[atm92484_3]

Matt, if you can afford it, get the Team Built. You get more truck for your buck. Depending on how much you want to spend, I'd reccomend either a 2 PCKA (or whatever the newest version is called now) or a 2 PEKA (FM) for the radio. For the engine, a 12 CV or 12 CV-X is always a great choice.

good luck

[GTX]

Yeah, go with the team built, :D they look like really good begginer kits.

[poopie]

GTX i have a brand new trinity NON pull engine mount i can sell. it really stiffens up the tub chassis. it is not in package but i never ran it. let me know if you ae interested as well as that OS carb you are interested in.

[TRXboy]

Hey guys, I have been getting alot of questions on how i set this brake system up with a slide carb, so i figured i would post it as a whole here, the rode is exstended threw the shock tower to act like a guid, everything eles is smooth and bind free, dont mind the zip tie brace..:)

www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/554-TRXboy/Slide1.jpg

www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/554-TRXboy/Slide2.jpg

ok i thought RCCA mad it easier when they updated this board, i can't figure it out, so if anyone wants to enilighten me on how to post pics please do so.

[GTX]

Just follow the instructions the BB says, or post a link. I can host them if you can't. Poopie, if your the same guy on maxxtraxx, then YGM!

[Siro]

wow, nice truck TRXboy.

I got a phonecall from my LHS today with some info i wanted on the RC10GT TB, he can get me a RC10GT Team Built with the Associated/TTR .15 engine which i'd rather have than the dynamite seeing as i've heard great stuff about it. Do u think its a good engine too being hardcore RC10GT'ers?

This durability thing is really nagging me though..... In the UK here its not like the US, dryer, fine dirt its usually big muddy stuff with alot of stones and branches and twigs. I'l be bashing with my m8 who owns that Nitro MT up there and i dunno if i'l be able to keep up with him on the kind of terrain when he has 4WD.

TRXboy's GT....
http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/554-TRXboy/Slide2.jpg
http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/554-TRXboy/Slide1.jpg

[illbreakit]

Hey, I,m back. Hows everyone? I got my internet cut a work so I had to buy a computer for home so I can can come back. Did ya miss me LOL Got a new rc a while back too. A rc10l3t! I know it,s not nitro but it is associated. and it lets me race in the cold Canadian winter roflmao!

Anyways it,ll be goot to chat again but I gotta go, my wife wants the internet tour(could take hoursLOL) :D ;) :p

PS siro, The TTR engine is not that bad and the reliability of your gt should be all that you expect, mine is almost indestructable. Just don,t hit any trees a WOT:D

[atm92484_3]

Break-it, who cares if its electric; L3s are sweet. They are so fast and they are relatively inexpensive. What equipment are you running on it?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Dana F, try the Picco "Racer" or "Pro" pipe.

Gedertr, the MIP manifold is really nice. So is the stock AE one.

GTX, what's "YGM" mean?

Siro, your GT will kick that NMT's booty. I think it was ATM that had an encounter with a mailbox while running his NMT, and well, just ask him to post the pic. GT's are lighter, faster, more durable, and more fun to drive. It should also be easier to find parts for the AE. Those TTR engines are pretty nice. They are forgiving enough for a beginner, but come with enough power to keep you interested in this engine as your driving skills progress.

Mark O.

[TRXboy]

Thanks Siro for postin the pics, about the mud thing, i sugest getting some dirt paws for the rear and some edges for the front, that should solve most of your traction problems, now about the 4wd issue, add two spacers to the rear(one large, one middle sized) and add one large to the front shocks, and get some soft springs, that should help handle the bumps, about the brance's, cant say much, just steer clear!

as for the exsaust system, here is what the picco "pro" pipe and AE header look like.

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/554-TRXboy/Image072.jpg

[FTR]

hey guys what do you think of this. my neigbors are pissing me off alot lately so i wam going to pick up a set of new era alloy rim and some masher 2k's and show my rich b i t c h neigh bor what i am made of. i found out that my lil cvr 12 can handle a wopping load of %40 nitro with %18 oil. with a stinger coming i better start mixin some custom fuel. this is why i love my ft gt. its so flexable like one minut an offroad racer, then a low rider street machine, then tmaxx compotition. if i should give it a go give me a HELL YEAH! ( my attitude has been infulenced by system of a down's song chop suey, my recent bad religion cd, and Greg Vogel page 118 of febuary 2002 rcca)

[nitrodriver]

Originally posted by illbreakit
A rc10l3t! I know it,s not nitro but it is associated. and it lets me race in the cold Canadian winter roflmao!



so how do you like your L3? i got one and its sweet. its gonna be a speed car in a week or 2 :D. im getting a tekin g12 (hopefully) off of ebay and im going to be running 2 2400 packs and a 12 turn motor... its gonna be SWEET

[EbayGTDisaster]

Hey, this is a vehicle specific request so maybe someone can help me out, first off what i have for trade is a OS cv? 12, lol, came with the truck, ugly little head, short shaft, etc. don't need it cuz i bought an m-16 for my gt. the engine needs work, but i thought someone might need it for parts or something. i am lookin for shox for my rc10gt, i have the gold sport ones(ack!) and am lookin to upgrade, and seein as how i'm poorer then dirt, figured this might be a place to try. and if i ever find my instal disk for my webcam i'll post some eye candy for ya guys, just to show that moron who sold me a broken gt10 on ebay what i can do to it :p :D
enuff rambling, thanx for any help

[illbreakit]

my l3 runs great. I got a Reedy MVP, Sanyo 2400, and a Novak duster 2 esc. I race on a small track, geared 14/87, but we turn 18 second laps. The GT is way more fun tho (when it's runnin right) I was gonna buy a mt12 this xmas but I needed a computer, priorities. Something about being able to do 13 cartwheels down the straight and no broken parts:eek:

Hey is gokou and the boys still around, havent had any time to catch up on missed threads. It was still the old bb when I last logged. Like this format better.

The snow has experienced a sudden melt here so I might take the gt out soon. Gotta clean the mud of from the last race in Sept. tho hahaha. Hopefully me crankshaft doesn't look like the ones in the Trinity ads:mad:

Well TTFN

[GTX]

YGM means you got mail

[atm92484_3]

Gokou and a lot of the other guys are still around. They just haven't posted recently.

[TRXboy]

Wow speaking of exsaust systems anybody know how to fix this job?

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/554-TRXboy/Image074.jpg

[GTracer22]

Hey I just got my picco .12 and ive ran about 2 tanks and now it isnt getting any gas into the carb. The only way it will start is when I pour gas into the carb and then it dies a second later.It also seems like my pressure line keeps filling up with gas.So what is wrong? Is my engine putting out enough pressure?:confused:

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Good lord, Nick. How'd you do that? I'd try maybe sticking a screwdriver in the pipe and trying to muscle it back into shape. Geez, that's a hard hit!

Mark O.

[FTR]

dido Rc1oGtMaN lol nick what in the bloody devel did you do to that pipe??????!!!?????

[TRXboy]

Man i go away for a month or two and you guys forgot this already? MAN i need to get on this comp some more, hehe acualy it was a side to tail colishion with my friends losi, i ended up with a broken steering bellcrank and that(crank is no biggi, that one is gunna cost me, hopfully it wont screw up the performance to much) he ended up with a broken bumper and snaped hub. but dont worry, pay backs a female dog ....

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/554-TRXboy/bent%20pipe.jpg

[atm92484_3]

lol only you TRX....

[treedr]

EbayGTDisaster, How do you like the m16 motor? I run one and it works great. Let me know

[Rc1oGtMaN]

LOL @ Nick. Yeah man, the newbies to the forum don't remember all those crazy posts you used to have....

Mark O.

[GTX]

FOR THOSE OF YOU WITH DENTED PIPES:

Just pour water in it, make sure you plug up the end, so water won't come out, and you might want to clean the inside of it too, put it upright in the freezer, and let it freeze for about 6 or so hours, or until hardened, the water will expand, popping out the dent, and then you just dethaw the pipe, and your done. You now just did two things, 1)cleaned it and 2)removed the dent. Two things in one! Hope that helps for that situation.

Now, GTracer22, I would check all your fuel lines, fuel filter if you have one, and make sure they are all in working order and not clogged or the filter is really dirty. Then, check your tank to make sure nothing got in there, then, if that doesn't solve it, check to see if your tank is cracked or leaking on the nipple of the gas tank, or if it is broken. I think that should do it. I just got done running my T-maxx in the yard before dinner, and now I think I need new diff gears, LOL! Man, the GT is built way better than my T, and my T has way more upgradeds!!!! I don't know, many people offer me stuff like an XR3 for it, about 200 for it, man, it gets tempting sometimes, especially since I don't think I would drive it, but I may sell it or trade it, I want to buy a FT edition, not upgrade to one, so I think I will sell it and get a FT one, until then, I will play with my T-Maxx and my pan car. I will hang around here and help you guys out, even though I won't have one. Hope you guys won't kick me out or anything! :p

[EbayGTDisaster]

well, lol, just now breaking it in, once i get it running i expect it to be wonderful, i like the fun i've had breaking it in so far, lol.:D

[Skateboarder]

Hey guys, what could be some good performance hop ups for my truck, I have a factory team gt that has a mip 4 n 1 clutch and Im running a .15 hyper with stock pipe and header. I was wondering what I could get to inprove performance since I was going to be racing my friend with a .21 T-maxx and that did not bother me since I new that my gt was faster but he is getting a used hpi rush in a trade that has a racing clutch, racing fuel tank and springs. The thing is he has a biger choice of engines that he can put in it then me since he has a .15 hyper like mine, a hpi .15ss and a os .12cv that does not have a carb:) and I think he would be using a cvec pipe and Im not sure what hearder.
When we race it will only be in a baseball diomond or in a parking lot so there wont be any jumps or crtazy stuff.
Im still sure that my truck should be faster and handle better but I just want to see what I could get to help.
Sorry for the long post
Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Skate, I'd get some Robinson Racing plastic spurs just to make sure you don't embarass yourself by stripping a gear. Other than that I think you're ready.

[TRXboy]

Hey thanks for the freezing tip, works great, just going for a second round to get the dent completly out but so fare it seems to be working.

as for you skate - you shouldent really need any hop-ups to beat a rush, the only real sugestion i have it tear down your truck, clean and lock tite everything, just to make shure everything is in working order.

[GTX]

Yes, I forgot to mention that you can do a few times if it is a big dent. If that rush beats you, just tell him you want a rematch and next time add like some razors to your wheels and chew up his tires when he gets close! HAHA! LOL, just kidding.

[atm92484_3]

Or of the Rush somehow beats you, you can always play chicken. He'll see who the real truck is while he's looking for Rush pieces. :D

[TRXboy]

pieces...maby, bent chassis...definetly...:D

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Replacement Nitro Rush A-Arms: 10 dollars

Replacement Nitro Rush Chassis: 25 dollars

The moment when your neighbor sees how awesome of a truck the GT is: Priceless.

Mark O. (Also Priceless)

[TRXboy]

hehe should be "shiping chassis back to HPI because they knew it was weak: priceless".

chassis is so weak HPI started giving those thigs away.

[EbayGTDisaster]

LMAO, or u could just throw bricks at his rush from a distance, just keep one in hand if he gets lippy about it.:p

[Skateboarder]

Thanks guys thats great. I found out that he will probably be running a .12 cvx in his truck.
Anyway thanks again.

[DTRAX]

I have just recently heard about the MIP 4-n-1 clutch for the rc10gt. I read that it disengages the engine from the wheels at idle. I was wondering what the benefits and disadvantages are? Do you loose power? Basically is it worth it? Thanks for your time.

[illbreakit]

Originally posted by DTRAX
I have just recently heard about the MIP 4-n-1 clutch for the rc10gt. I read that it disengages the engine from the wheels at idle. I was wondering what the benefits and disadvantages are? Do you loose power? Basically is it worth it? Thanks for your time.
One word Yes
The Mip clutch is worth it, It does disengage at idle, that's one of the pluses. You get a way more stable idle, less heat on the clutch bell, and you can use a lighter flywheel without having to turn up the idle because it is not trying to move the car. And as a bonus feature, you get a clutch that you can adjust to one of 4 settings in minuts. No more shaving the stock clutches.
The M-I-P 4-in-1 clutch is, in my opinion, the best upgrade you can buy. And maybe the cheapest

[EbayGTDisaster]

i've got a 4-n-1 too, i lub it soooooooooo much, the previous owner overshaved the stupid shoes and the clutch wouldn't catch(i may use the word MORON if as to be so blunt) again, try and make sure ur not getting ripped off on ebay :p so i purchased a 4-n-1 and haven't had a problem yet! and it's only 13 bucks, a great price for a greater part.:)

[ritchies rc10gt]

man this thread grows fast!!i havent posted in a while but i have been reading the posts.i have a few questions and some advice for some of you.

i just started messing with my GT again last night after throwing it in the corner of my room for a few months.the last time i messed with it it kept over heating.well it still does it no matter what i do.i was running BT 20% in it and now i tried power master 25% fuel.it runs longer before it over heatsbefore it would run about 5 minutes.now i can get through half a tank before it overheats.its an ofna force 15


KEEPING YOUR PIPES IN THE COUPLERS

take a screw driver and flare the end of the pipe and the header so when it goes into the coupler its a little bigger and a zip tie will hold it nice and tight

put the screw diver in the the pipe and header.hold the pipe tight and with some pressure on the screwdriver turn it and it will put a flare on it.

[EbayGTDisaster]

yeah, i read about doin that in r/c car action last year, haven't tried it yet tho, i'm afraid i will really mess something up, lol.

[GTracer22]

Yeah me too, I thought I might tear up the inside of my pipe.

[treedr]

Is this the way the return safety spring is supposed to go? It doesn't return when I kill the battery in the car or turn off the controller. Help. Thanks

[treedr]

another

[GTracer22]

It doesnt look like its being stretched eough. Cut it down a little and then put in back on.

[atm92484_3]

Ya GTRacer is right; its not tight enough. If it were my car though I'd either leave it loose like that so it pulls the arm back only if the linkage falls off or totally remove it.

IMO TRSs are a waste. From my experience, all they do (tight ones that is that can pull the servo back that is) is waste battery power. Then you need the TRS to stop the car when your batteries prematurely die. It just seems kind of pointless to me.

jmo

[treedr]

If what I did was wrong, let me know how I can put a safety on the car so it doesn't go ballistic if I get out of range or the batteries are low. The last get off was ugly and it cost some $. I don't want to have to worry about my car taking off on me.

[atm92484_3]

I wouldn't call it wrong, I'm just saying I wouldn't do it. To be honest with you, there aren't really any safe guards out there right now except the failsafe or a TRS. Its up to you but if you are going to keep that TRS and you want it to work if the batteries die, you'll want to tighten it by doing what GTracer said.

[poopie]

i'm the new MOD for a new AE forum. would anyone like to join? please e-mail if you are interested. thanks

[Got Speed]

I have a tip that has helped me alot. Take a peice of music wire and bend it like this \_ with loop at the bottom. Unscrew the rear right servo screw. Now put the music wire's loop through the screw and bolt it back down. Then poke a hole in your air filter and push the other end of the music wire into it. I havn't had my filter fall off since I put this on.:)

[GTX]

Poopie, I would be interested, but I may sell my GT, and maybe buy another FT one, or maybe just sell my 12 CV-RX, I haven't decided yet. So, YGM!

Hey, that might just work, I may try it.

[treedr]

Enlighten me as what a TRS is. This a RC10GT in question

[treedr]

good tip gotspeed, I am sure that will work. That problem has been really pissing me off for a while. Thanks again

[Got Speed]

treedr- TRS= Throttle Return Spring

[Rc1oGtMaN]

For the two guys who are afraid of flaring their pipes and manifolds...

If this act could possibly damage something, don't you think RCCA would warn the reader to proceed with caution? These guys are smart, they don't give advice without telling you basically all things that could go wrong. They don't need hate letters about how people are messing up their pipes and manifolds. Flaring these two items is a very good idea, and you can run as little as one or two zip ties (don't do it, but it's possible) when you have a flared exhaust system.

Tree doc, you should either cut the spring, and attach it to the same place, or see if you get proper tension when you attach the spring to the servo horn.

Mark O.

[GTX]

Hehe, I don't even have a throttle return spring on either my GT or T-Maxx! AND< to add to that, the coupler on my GT is only held by 2 zip ties, and the coupler on my T doesn't have any! I will put 2 on my T, the reason it didn't have one is because the pipe was secured by a zip tie, so it wouldn't budge. Hehe, I usually don't go that far away anyway.

[ritchies rc10gt]

i didnt know that the pipe flaring tip was in RCCA!i got tired of my pipes falling off no matter how many or how tight the zip ties were.i remembered that while messing with real cars and trucks that a flared steel fuel line will hold the rubber lines tighter than a nonflared steel line.


do you guys think if i ported my carb and crank hole my engine would run cooler?im tired of it already.no matter what i do with my needles it wont run cool.if it does run cool it doesnt have enough RPMs to start making power cuz its flooding outi even tried the factory settings.

HPI NITRO RUSH VS RC10GT RTR

rush full throttle into a sidewalk= bent front chassis the left front wheel sits farther back than the right front.LOL @ the POS!

rc10gt RTR full throttle into sidewalk=either a popped ballcup or the wheel comes off.gotta love AEs nylon wheelnut idea,instead of breaking something the wheel flys off

you tell me wich is better!

[GTX]

hehe, I hear ya, I bet that thing would just pop a bunch of parts out if they played chicken! As for your engine, what carb, what engine, all stock or modified, cylinder head? What fuel are you running?

[ritchies rc10gt]

i am running an ofna factory force 15S pro.i had one before and never had trouble with it.its got the stock carb on it.it had the tall thin gold head on it but i changed it to the red fat head off of my ofna colt 12 tonight but havent run it yet.i was running BT 20% but i switched to power master 25%.it seems to run longer before it starts over heating with the 25%.it also has tons of compression.i also ported my header,the port is a little bit bigger than the port on the block.it has just enough metal to seal the gasket.could this be my problem?i think ill go buy another header this weekend just to see what happens.other than lowering compression will adding a head shim help any?


i need to invent a frame machine for rc cars and trucks.i knew the back of the rush chassis bends but i didnt think the front would bend.ive hit everything imaginable with my gt and its chassis is tweaked a little but not enough to notice or mess up the handleing.i could actually see about half an inch of diffferent in the wheels on the rush and it was full throttle but wasnt going to fast.my Gt at full throttle is insanely fast compared to the rush with an ofna colt.12.i wish i never bought the rush in the first place

[bolink]

My cousin was gonna get a rush as soon as he saves some money,i think im gonna tell him to spend a few more $$ and get a RTR GT

[ritchies rc10gt]

the one and only reason i am even bothering with the rush is cuz i gave it to my girlfriend when i bought the GT.she wanted one and i got mad at the rush cuz i couldnt get one day of good running without breaking something.the first day i had it the engine blew,i rebuilt it and it never ran again,the kid i gave it to at the LHS couldnt even get it to run.if it wasnt for my woman it would have been tossed in a junk car and on its way to being part of a new nissan.i hate the thing


my GT is a RTR and besides not having bearings its alot better and more worth the money than the rush.i hit a huge rock headon going about 50+MPH and all that happened was the engine slid forward and stripped a 4 dollar spur gear.the rush hit a sidewalk at about 25 MPH and bent the front of the chassis bad enough to notice and screw up the handling.the GTs chassis is bent but the only time its noticable is when i take certain things apart and i can see it bend back when i put it back together

[FTR]

yeah i hit a concrete wall on a runaway the chassy bent. well i got my neibhor buddy who is really good at base ball gave him a sledge hammer one nice whack and i was in buisness though since i saw how stong my gt was i let him drive a whole tank

[EbayGTDisaster]

well, i'm rebuilding my shox, hopin to get some more life out of the pitiful things, just a tip to anyone that might not know this, if u don't have AE's shock tool(which of course i didn't) the shock shaft minus the white washer on it(forgot the name of it, heh) with one e-clip works just as well to reinstall everything, and to get everything out, use a small hex wrench and a little force :)

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
the one and only reason i am even bothering with the rush is cuz i gave it to my girlfriend when i bought the GT.

Is she really that bad of a girlfriend? :D

[illbreakit]

Originally posted by atm92484_3


Is she really that bad of a girlfriend? :D

ROFLMAO:p :p :p

[GTX]

Hehe, man, that's wrong! Hehe, man I would get her a GT too, that way you can both drive forever! :p

as for you ritchies rc10gt, I really don't know whats wrong, if you did all of what I told you in my older posts. I would try another engine, the 12 CV-X or 12 CV-RX, at least, don't go ofna, I don't know much about them, as most people don't. I have run nothing but O.S.

[Got Speed]

Has that collari 5 port .12 turbo engine come out on the market yet? If so does anyone have one?

[heLLo deRe]

hi,

i have a rc10gt rtr. fer sum reason i cant let the truck idle. it engages even at the lowest rpm. does anywun know whut is wrong with it? should i buy a new clutch?

thanx eh

[ritchies rc10gt]

get the MIP 4 in 1 clutch.it has a spring that keeps the clutch diengaged at idle.plus you will like it better than the stock clutch.i think it only about 15 bux and well worth the money.its number2 on the must have hop ups list right under the must have bearing kit for the RTR



i like the ofna engine except for the pullstart setup on them.im gonna get a starter box soon so ill be switching it to non pullstart.im gonna mess with it tonight when i take my dog out.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

heLLo deRe, if you can't get the MIP clutch right now, then you should cut your clutch shoes. Get a GT tuning manual to see how much to cut off. Even if you buy the MIP clutch, you should buy a GT tuning manual. IT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING THAT YOU CAN BUY FOR THE GT!!! This guide shows you how to set up everything, and tells you what configurations you should run for all kinds of tracks and/or conditions.

ritchies GT, I think that you just need to buy a new engine. OFNA's have never had a history of being that great of engines. I suggest that you go with something that is proven, and is easy to find parts for. Trinity Picco and OS would be my first picks fopr bashing and light racing. Trinity Picco, RB, JP, and Novarossi would be the top dogs if you race more than you bash. If you don't want to buy a new engine, and have an extra one laying around, you should try switching the carbs. It kind of sounds like there is an air leak somewhere, however, the fact that switching fuels made the engine run longer kind of makes me think it could be something else. Good luck.

Mark O.

[EbayGTDisaster]

this is just a thing to get ur noodles going, if the 4 n 1 comes with a spring, and the video that comes with the truck shows a spring being installed on the clutch shoes, why in God's name did they stop putting the spring in the kit? hrmmmmm......................

[atm92484_3]

Ebay, some of the clips from that video are old (as you can already see). The spring used on the MIP clutch goes around the clutch and IMO is much better than the spring that the stock clutch had. If you tune the stock clutch right though it should work just fine even with no springs.

[illbreakit]

For some reason AE stopped making the springs for there stock clutch. I think it was because the factory drivers figured id wasn,t needed, but most of us are not factory drivers are we? Go MIP
And like Rc1oGtMaN said, get the tuning manual. Lots of helpful hints and cause/affect of making all and any tuning changes to your GT. Deffinately worth the $3.95
Later

[EbayGTDisaster]

oh well, i'm happy with my 4 n 1, wouldn't ever go back to a stock clutch no matter what.

[GTX]

Hey guys, I just became a MOD at the http://pub58.ezboard.com/brchouse and it's really cool, all we need is more members, so get you butts over there, and I they have some positions they need filled, so I think that is enough hints for now, trust me, check it out. You should see what his guy did to his T-Maxx!!!! There is also an AE forum, just for AE. I am currently the Losi MOD, but I would much like to be a T-Maxx mdo also.

[EbayGTDisaster]

was runnin my gt today, i realized i needed to set up my servos(my wheels when supposed to be straight were turned to the right, lol, darn those off center servo savers) and tighten up my slipper nut. well, i brought the car in to set everything up, fixed everything, and made a most horrifying discovery. now i'm not sure if i should post it or not, since it's so blood curdling(waiting for drama to build) but i need to know if this has only happened to me or if anyone else experienced it as well. i lost the $#%&ing e-clip off the shaft that holds the gear onto my engine. how the heck can i lose an e-clip? oh well, if this has happened to u lemme know and also lemme know how i might prevent this tragedy from recurring.

[atm92484_3]

I've lost many of those Ebay along with that outer bearing. I ended up replacing the whole clutchnut since the groove was worn and the clip wasn't able to grip the shaft that well.

[GTX]

I put one on my Maxx clutch and have been using it for two runs and nothing happened. When I was running my Losi GTX with CV-R, I had this little circle clip, it looked like this:


__00__
/ \
/ \
\ /
\______/

Like that, except a big circle with the circles you use a tool to expand it and slip it over the clutch nut slit. Just don't expand one too much. You can find them at the hardware store, like Home Depot for like $0.35 for three, or something like that. You can find all kinds of cool stuff there.

[EbayGTDisaster]

well the clutch nut is fine, so i think it mighta been an old e-clip, so i'm gonna pick some up at my lhs tomorrow, maybe the newer ones will stay on better. i'ma give it a shot and see how it works, it would just suck if it happened in the middle of a race or something, but since i run in my parking lot i don't think i'll have much competition other then a weiner dog of my neighbors and a border collie of someone else in the building. LOL, i think i can take em.:D

[ritchies rc10gt]

somehow i solved my overheating problem.i think changing the cooling head did it.now when i give it full throttle and let off to turn it dies.it will idle forever and run as long as i dont go full throttle and let off.if i keep it full throttle it will stay runnin until i let it go back to idle.any ideas?


ebay,if that clip comes off again put some blue locktight on it and let it harden over night.it works on mine.i even replaced the clutch nut and that clip still comes off if i dont use a drop of locktight

[Jwelch]

I love my gt :D

[EbayGTDisaster]

even with all the trouble i've had with mine cuz of the previous owner, i lub muh GT too:D

[atm92484_3]

Who doesn't love their GT?

[GTX]

anyone.........OK, then it's settled, nobody can say anything about the GT except good things, I wonder why that is.......

[treedr]

I'm not too happy with mine right now. I couldn't get it started. Maybe a little too much after run oil. Does anyone have the factory carb setting for a M16?

[EbayGTDisaster]

4 turns out low end 3 for high end 1 mm carb gap :D that's factory for m-16

[ritchies rc10gt]

im not too happy with mine either at the moment

as i was degreasing and cleaning everything i was messing with the engine.it all of a sudden locked up like it was hydrolocked.but i could only turn it 1/4 of a turneither way.i pulled the head off,not hydro locked.i pulled the pullstarter off still locked.i pulled the back plate of and found a metal ball stuck in the case.so i finished taking it apart and found the inner crank bearing started to blow apart.what causes this?i after run oil it all the time.i couldnt find my other ofna .15 block but i lucked out and new the colt.12 block is basically the same except few minor diffences in cosmetic look,and since i have a brand new .12 block that has a broken crank i swapped all the .15 guts into it.now if it straightens out and runs like it should ill be suprising some people at the tracks.id be beating guys with what they think is an ofna colt.12!

[treedr]

The m16 is starting to drive me nuts now. I set the screws as eBay had said and still get nothing. It did fire once and it revved really high. I can't get the idle to be @ 1mm. With the idle screw almost out there is still at least a 2mm gap. It ran fine about a week ago and now this. Any help would be appreciated. The snow is good and solid right now and I built a 4 ft double with 10-12 ft gap. I also have a brand new battery in the starter and a new plug. I should post a picture of the blisters I have between my fingers from pulling the starter.

[GTX]

Well, how old is it? Do you have all of your fuel lines connected correctly?

[treedr]

The fuel lines are good. It ran last week fine. I'm not a total spode. I have run +/- 1/2 gallon of Blue Thunder 20% and it still has gnarly compression. Enough to give a blister or two. I was thinking there might be a little funk in the carb so I cleaned it. Took it all apart. The piston doesn't have one score on it and like I said the compression is great. Do you think the motor can get that fussy because its 45 degrees out? I've tried to get a hold of Megatech today with no luck just to check the carb settings. eBay,.... 4 turns out on the low seems a little much. The needle was about to fall out. Thanks though. While I ha