Associated RC10GT Forum v3.0

[Got Speed]

Finally I am getting an XR-3.

When you go into a coner and your car wants to go to the wall it is called push, right? What is it called when you come out of the corner?

[treedr]

When the car does not want to steer, it is called a push. When the back end comes around in a corner it is called loose. Find a happy medium. Get NASCAR Thunder 2002 for PS2, you can practice setting up a car there and have fun doing it.



Megatech M16 settings from the factory tech email reply today. 3 turns out on the high, 3 1/2 turns out on the low. Give or take a click here or there dependant on the conditions. Works for me. The truck rips again. Snow a little soft though. Pulls wheelies on the pavement. I'm stoked:D :eek:

[TeamCarnage]

Time to squeeze the happy trigger!! Good choice on the JR..... great radio for the money. Nick

[DLF]

Have any of you guys found a good way to fix an on throttle push condition with the GT? Particularly in high traction conditions? Mine is so bad it'll damned near ride a wheelee down the back straight. However, I am also getting somewhat of an off throttle push. I was thinking of putting some weight in the front of the truck. Anyone?

Dana F

[ritchies rc10gt]

some of you probably already know this

on my gt i have blue springs all around.30wt in the front shocks and 60wt in the rear.i have my front end as soft and low as it can be and the rear as high and hard as can be.now ive noticed that it will turn very easy on pavement.i just have to turn the wheels a small amount and it turns on dime.if i turn to much it will pull one rear wheel off the ground or flip.now it works good on pavement but on a track i have no clue since tracks here are closed cuz of winter.i also know i need to soften the rear end a little so it wont flip

[atm92484_3]

DLF, the weight in the front is an excellent idea. I did it on my GT and 2 ounces works wonders (could go to 4 oz and then your weight would be about equal to the XXXNT's). I bought some airplane weights (for balancing RC planes) from my LHS and I zip tied them onto the front shock tower.

Look back on page 14 or 18 to see the pic of what I did (if they still work); if not I'll repost if you want to see it.

good luck

[DLF]

Thanks atm. I think that's the route I'll be going. I didn't want to go to heavier weight in the rear since our track has some pretty good jumps. She actally jumps pretty good. However, making the rear heavier, while it may help the weight transfer and thus push, it would hender it's recover abilities after a jump.

Thanks guys.

Dana F

[CGV]

i just noticed my CVD's were rubbing on my arm, what gives?

[DLF]

Heh...yea, I noticed the same. And so did a friend of mine with his GT. I just took a dremel tool cut a little notch in the arm.

Dana F

[atm92484_3]

Its because the suspension is set too high and AE never intended for it to be set like that. Try putting some limiters in the shocks to make them shorter so when they are fully extended, the CVDs are level or close to level.

[format13]

i got a stinger pipe for my gt, it looks sweet...It's dark so i didn't get to drive it yet, can you see a diference in performance? *drools*

[DLF]

I'm sure that is it. But you actually cut very little off the arm to stop it from rubbing. I'd actually rather do that and have the little extra travel. :D

Dana F

[format13]

anyone have any tips on how to keep my battery pack to stay in the back of my car.

[format13]

^
(rc10gt)

[atm92484_3]

Format, try tightening the zip ties that hold the pack in place. These are all that I'm using and I've yet to lose a pack. Go to a hardware store and buy like a 50 or 100 pack of the colored zip ties of your choice.

good luck

[violator757]

format i got 2 words for ya ZIP TIES lol

[treedr]

format, I just took off my stinger and it works better. I really didn't see a increase in power. The tuned HPI pipe works well for me. The weight of the pipe is in all the wrong places for the design of the truck. The truck doesn't steer or jump too well with it. Too rear heavy. It looks really cool though. You could probably weight the front end a little to help offset if you cant part with the pipe. Where do I get those cool shocks with the threaded spring adjustments. I dont like the spacers on the AE shocks. Thanks

[treedr]

Oh!, one other thing format, make sure you are using the rubber pad for the battery pack tray ALONG with some good wide zips

[Siro]

have any of you done really big jumps with your GT's?! Kinda MT jumps, very big ones...

Bit of a weird question but i wanna go high!

If so, alot of damage?

[treedr]

I hit a 5 foot shaped, frozen snowbank wide open and it flew! Didn't break anything. Landed nice. Probably 10 foot of air, twenty foot long FLAT. SMACK!!! AOK though

[GTracer22]

Hey every1 im back, but I wont be around as much as usual because im a moderator for the rc house. We need alot more mods so come and leave a post and you will most likely become a mod. The RC house (www.therchouse.com) Its a great web site but we need more people.:mad:

[TRXboy]

Siro - GT is the best jump truck out side the Nitro stampede, VERY durable, as long as you land on A wheel you should be ok(does not include landing sideways). Use this set up

Stiff springs all around
50wt oil all around
set for max GC
stay with the plastic stuff.

Just remeber the cold makes plastic brittle, meaning less flex, which means more broken stuff. Take it from me man, you wont find a better jumper.(i think some of you guys can back me on this one.)

[Got Speed]

GTRacer 22-I got in trouble for talking about the RC house on here.

[format13]

hey guys, thanks for your help! im new to this and i appreciate your advice. another thing, what are the 5 best (but cheap) hop-ups? I'm only 14 so i have a limited amount of $$$.:p :D

[DLF]

Well, I'm sure many will disagree, but I've found the GT (FT) is very good right out of the box. However, I have heard much talk on the MIP 4-in-1 clutch and have been thinking of giving that a try.

Dana F

[EbayGTDisaster]

MIP 4n1 is the best upgrade, i own one and love it, best thing goin for around 13 smackers, also hear alot about the crecenzi brake system, might be my next investment. one of my biggest start off investments should have been LOC-TITE, lol, now i need to get the screws that hold on the spur to the transmission(oops, hehe) and some extra e-clips(noted from earlier post after losing the e-clip that held my clutch bell onto my engine) other then that i don't think there is too much more, watch out if ur ever upgrading to aluminum parts, anything that flexes i would recommend stayin plastic.

[Siro]

I'm just waiting for my b'day to come (10th of Feb) and sell my bike and i can get summot, i say that cause i dunno what i'm gunna get only that it will probably be a GT Team Built w/Associated .15

Thing is that the GT Team Built is quite cheap here and i should have plenty of cash so i will probably be getting;

RC10GT Team Built w/Associated .15 - £235
Hitec 645 Steering Servo - £35
Standard Throttle/Break - £10
20% BlueThunder (1 Gallon) - £20
Motorsavers Airfilter - £15
Fuel Bottle - £3
GlowPlugs - £5
AFO - £5

Total - £328 ($472 USD)

Might sqeeze a pair of Proline Dirt Paw's in there ;)
Oh BTW, i know some of you have upgraded RTR's and have had experience with the Associated .15, top speed in a GT to get some sort of idea of performance?

[atm92484_3]

Sounds good Siro. With the AE 15 you're talking about, you can expect speeds in the high 30s to low 40s with the stock gearing.

TRX is right about the GT being a great jumper. One time I was jumping mine and I probably got a good 15 feet in the air. The first time I jumped it I landed it perfectly. The next time I tried to give it a little gas and I hit the side of the jump. My GT shot straight up (15 feet) and landed on its tail. The only damage was a busted rear bulkhead and a broken rear tranny brace. $8 total damage from this abuse.

[GTracer22]

I finally made a list of what all my FTGT has on it...

MIP Lightweight Flywheel
MIP Blue Shock Seals
MIP Shiny CVDs
MIP BB Steering
MIP Super Diff Kit
MIP Super Thrust Kit
RRP Titanium Top Shaft
RRP Hardened Steel Idler Gear
RRP Hardened Diff Gear
Ofna Throttle Linkage Set
RPM Body Mounts
RPM Ball Cups
RPM Rear A-Arm Mounts
HG Tranny Brace
Trinity/Picco .12 Engine
Trinity Pro Shock Bushings
Trinity Shock Oil
Kyosho Exaust Coupler
FT Titanium Turnbuckles
FT Blue Aluminium Screws
FT Blue Pipe
FT Blue Manifold
FT Titanium Hinge Pins
FT Sealed Ball Bearings
FT Titanium Nitrade Shock Shafts
FT Carbon Fiber Shock Towers

Future Upgrades-
FT ReversedFuel Tank
Hard Core Engine Mounts
RPM Rear Bulkhead
RPM Front Bumper
Trinity Reciever Battery Pack
Hitec Lynx 3d Radio System

:D :D :D

[driller]

I've been lurking these forums for a while now and I'm very impressed with the rc knowledge provided here I'm just over a year into this rc craze with a couple of co-workers the gt rtr was the truck of choice for us. Last December I got the factory team I still use the hitec radio that came with my rtr for the FT and it works just fine for me since I don't race yet along with alkaline batteries I will soon add the MIP 4n1 clutch and would like some input about nicads what should I get I'd like to keep the 6 volt power for my servos so I want a couple of good packs for my truck but as far as my radio go's it's just a standard hitec that came with the rtr so I just want what will work because I will eventually upgrade the radio as far as the charger goes one that will charge both the truck & Radio nicads!

Nicads & Charger input please

Thanks Robert :

[new2it]

Nicads OR Nimh will give your servos more power to work with. I think they are a big hop up. A charged NIcad or Nimh pack will start at about 6.85 volts and go down from there. An alkaline pack will start at 6.0 volts and go down from there.

Rechargables have more available power (amps) for your servos to work with. I use AA 1650 Mah rechargables (Nimh) for my 1/8 scale and my transmitter. They last a long time. I use AAA 700 Mah for my GT. They will run for about an hour or so. This is a 5 cell pack that is smaller adn lighter than the original 4AA pack. When they are dead, just recharge them instead of buying new ones. Big bucks saved, better performance.

In the transmitter, they last for weeks. A great investment if you use your truck much.

I have 9 reciever packs. All Nimh and Two sets for my Transmitters.

Any Questions??

David Root

[hotmodrc]

I noticed someone asking about hop ups for the Gt and figured i'd throw in my 2 cents. Engines aside, The best performance hop up has got to be the Crescenzi GT brake system. http://www.rc10gthobby.com
It utilizes a aluminum hub and a industrial quality leather friction strap. It is nearly indestructable and braking and stopping are smooth and controlled! Carbon fiber is the way to go with the shock towers. Aluminum looks great but has almost no flex. No flex=SNAP! RPM bulkhead and a-arms are great too. The stock GT tuned pipe is about the best out there, the mip is just eye candy. The AE reverse fill fuel tank is the most fuel efficient upgrade, lol. Starting with the Factory Team kit is more expensive but will save you money in the long run with all its great hop ups. Just my 2 cents,

HotModRC
http://www.rcnfo.com

[hotmodrc]

Another

[hotmodrc]

Action shot

[gedertr]

Awesome GT... and cool pics! I unfortunately go for the "aluminum" look and have a bunch of it (sorry, no cool pics), I had broken way too many rear shock towers and rear arm mounts. If you can't break it...you aint driving hard enough!

[Lord Radeon]

.........or you could just buy a losi :cool: :rolleyes:

[hotmodrc]

I personally don't have anything against losi, I love the look of them. they hava a very cool stance. I've never owned own mostly because their parts are more difficult to come by. But I do know that the GT is the fastest most durable racer/basher I've ever owned. It's the first vehicle I ever had that I havn't been able to complain about. lol And for me that's rare. heh heh.

HotModRC

[atm92484_3]

Great GT Hotmod. All of the hop-ups serve a purpose and theres no wasted weight from aluminum. Is the front fill tank really that much easier to use over the old one?

Have any of you guys seen the new Trinity Receiver box? They had it in the March 2002 RCCA under New Products. It looks pretty good (antenna mount and switch mount are on the box).

[TeamCarnage]

New2it- Are you the same D. Root racing at CRCRC next weekend? I'm going with my son to observe. I couldn't get the time off work to race:( Have you raced there before? Several guys I race with/against have gone and say its a well run weekend! Traction sometimes hard to find there... Maybe I'll see you there. Later, Nick

[hotmodrc]

Thanks atm. I do love eye candy but i feel better using performance only hop ups. If it doesn't make it faster. lighter, or more agile, I generally don't buy it. Yes the front fill tank seems trivial but it isn't awkward to use like the stock one, and you don't have to make extra holes to access it. I havn't seen the trinity receiver box but it sounds trick! Eye cand y that performs, now that's my kinda hop up!! lol

HotModRC

[atm92484_3]

I'm with ya; it can look good but its gotta make the GT better (which is hard to do :)).

[gedertr]

I love the reverse fill fuel tank because access to the low end needle on the carb is MUCH easier to get to. And I agree that the carbon fiber hop ups are much better for the power to weight ratio and overall performance...but I just think the aluminum is cool. When you jump your GT 20-30 feet in the air off of large hills and mounds of dirt/gravel the aluminum holds up much better in my opinion.

Losi has finally come out with a great truck that is competitive...but how many Losi owners got screwed every other year when the "latest" design was completely different from the previous. Every two years their truck is obsolete! I hope that this won't be the case this time with the Triple XNT and they follow in Associated's footsteps and just upgrade the XXXNT. It will be much better for the Losi customers and the stiff competition will only drive the GT to continue to be the best!

my 2 cents...

[gedertr]

Has anyone used the OS 12 TR in their GT's? If so what header are you using? Is it ROAR Legal?

[new2it]

YES I am going to CRCRCRCRC. MY GT is ready, I am not. This is my first exp with BIG racing. I usually complain if it costs $10.00 to race. I have bought tires, RPM ball cups, a spare diff rebuild kit, new Tx......... I also have an EB4 that I plan to race. It is on my work bench looking like a bomb hit it. Parts will be in MONDAY!! I have a 6-8 hour drive to get there.

I have never raced at CRC. I do plan to go again this year because I got my son (10) a XXX buggy for christmas. I am getting my self a XXXT at the race from one of the CRC guys. In a month or two, Me and Mikey (my son) will go there again and race gas saturday and Elec sunday morning. What a weekend. I live in WNY, and the snow is killing me. I would love to get out my GT today and "practice", but too much soft snow.

My GT is black and green and has a cat guy from on TV. I forget his name. I bought the GT used for only a few bucks. I put an RB X12 in it. Ohmygoditflies!!!

See you there. If you have a son, Maybe we could meet and have lunch or something.

David Root

[FTR]

could some one help me out with a pipe and manifold i am clueless on what to get.

i run a cvr12 with 15/66 gearing, sand paws on the rear i usually run at the sand pit by my house

[GTracer22]

Get the AE pipe and manifold, they are the best for off road and will really increase performace.:cool:

[Siro]

Hey, i got my back issue of RRCi the other day with a review in of the GT RTR. I just wanna ask somethings that came up in the review, the brakes for instance........

'The cars first blast down a closed off road was very impressive, full speed being reached after no distance at all. It all nearly came to a sad end as the brakes where applied and nothing much happened. After some adjustment, including replacing the spring on the servo link with a less compliant piece of fuel tubing, the braking performance had improved but the car still needed a good twenty metres to slow down from top speed.'

Are the brakes that bad? Is the Crescenzi Brake system the only thing you can do to improve the braking?.

Another thing they said is this.......

'Although the throttle mechanism works OK most of the time (after a little fiddling around), the geomery of the set up is non too clever, allowing too of a twisting force to act on the servo & throttle horns & an undesireable ammount of servo strain.'

Is that true? What can i do stop this?

Thanks again

[GTracer22]

Ive never had any problem with my brakes, they have never taken long to stop my truck.I think the brakes are just fine and work good if they are adjusted right. To fix the linkage problem get the Ofna throttle linkage set, it helps alot.

[FTR]

thanks for your help gt racer i will put those on order.

[CGV]

i have some mula to spend on hopups, i already have a 4-n-1, what other hopups are recomended?
p.s. this is what my list looks like sofar:

  R ARMS:RC10T    (RPM70302)
  3MM/4-40 ALUM CSUNK WASHERS - P

GT 1-piece CHASSIS, blue aluminum (ASC7769)
$34.95

TURNBUCKLE KIT-T2/GT/T3 (7) (LUN2012)
$27.95

4-40 Heavy Duty ROD ENDS, purple (12) (RPM73378)
ChangeEdit #, press Change $4.95 $4.95

GT SCREW KIT, blue aluminum (ASC7675)
ChangeEdit #, press Change $13.95 $13.95

TIRES-SAND PAW 2.2" TRUCK (2) (PRO1052)
ChangeEdit #, press Change $12.95 $12.95

Remove RIMS-10T/GT Rear, white (2) (ASC7802)
ChangeEdit #, press Change $6.95 $6.95

Remove GT Front CHASSIS TUBE MOUNTS, blue aluminum (2) (TTK5067)

[atm92484_3]

CGV, since you are listing a blue chassis, I'm guessing you have an old tub chassis. The first thing your should get out be a conversion kit to the plate chassis (you need more than just the chassis). Its part number 7057 for non-pullstart and 7056 for pullstart. You might want to look into a radio box also (look back to pages 14 and 18 for how I installed a T-Maxx receiver box or look in the Feb. 2002 RCCA under the Pit Tips). Other than that, get a good servo and some tires, RRP spur gears, and some clutchbells so you can play with the gearing.

[CGV]

atm- i actually bent the chassis so i just need to replace it, and im making my own radio box out of plexi-glass, but if that doesnt work ima get the maxx radio box.

[ilovemygt]

is any one else using the .12 tr i got one for my gt and a dynamite inline pipe you have to heat and bent the header so it fits a little better its almost to powerfull for the gt i run it a little rich so its easier to control heres a pic
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=rc10racer&album_id=33001&image_id=7&courtesy=1

[gedertr]

ilovemygt...That looks awesome! I was going to buy the TR last night but decided to buy the CV-R because Tower Hobbies had it on price reduction for $127 versus the $159 for the TR plus about $15 for a new header. Trying to keep the cost down. The TR looks like an incredible engine, though, with OS reliability. Please keep this forum informed on the TR's performance in your GT...I would definitely appreciate it!:D

[scottro-nitro]

i posted my question in the wrong so here goes.......again. when i took the clutch bell off my nephews RC10GT RTR i was amazed to see a clutch setup w/ no springs:eek: now i know why it would always creep forward at idle. my question is will the MIP flywheel and clutch listed for the 10GT work on the included RTR .15 engine

[GTracer22]

The flywheel wont work because the AE .15 is a pullstart. The clutch will fit but the stock flywhyeel pins may need to be grinded down a little.:D

[EbayGTDisaster]

i tapped my pins back enuff to put the 4 n 1 on and they stic out the rear of the flywheel, but don't rub on anything, so i haven't had a problem with them yet, and don't forsee one, so u might just need to tap em back a bit instead of grinding em.

[Got Speed]

Ya, I am running an MIP 4 in 1 clutch on my pull start flywheel. I just had to grind the pins down alot.

CGV- I wouldn't buy the blue aluminum screw kit because they strip so easily. I tried to spray paint mine:D and it actually worked. They look just like my anodized ones. I have run it 7 times since and the paint hasn't come off.

If you are racing use the graphite arms instead of the RPM arms.

Instead of getting Associated's turnbuckle kit get Lunsford's. Lunsfords aren't pretty blue and all but they are life-time gaurenteed.

I like RPM ball cups.

Get Trinity's lower chassis brace.

[FTR]

hey got speed what kind of paint did you use

[WHITESTER1]

Originally posted by ilovemygt
is any one else using the .12 tr i got one for my gt and a dynamite inline pipe you have to heat and bent the header so it fits a little better its almost to powerfull for the gt i run it a little rich so its easier to control heres a pic
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=rc10racer&album_id=33001&image_id=7&courtesy=1

A friend of mine has just recently installed the new TR. We'll be heading down for the Indoor Gas Champs in Ohio this week. So I'll let you know how it works. It should be a killer powerplant. What fuel are you using? He is using 30% Sidewinder Race formula.

[mississippi]

woooohoooo!!! Burned almost half a gallon in the GT today on my backyard track. Lots of fun!!! Nothing broke, heck it never shut off until if tan out of fuel:) I think im getting alot better at driving, i can actually make it around my track several time now with out flipping!

I just had to tell someone about my day!

[dexters]

I ordered my RC10GT RTR today from Tower Hobbies. I can't wait til it gets here so I can do some serious bashing. One other question. Where can I find the cheapest Dynamite ball bearings at online? And what wheels and tires should I get for my GT?? What brand. Because I heard that not to many wheels fit the GT RTR?
Thanx :rolleyes:

[CGV]

Got Speed- ty for the heads up about the screw kit, i was basically looking to buy some extra screws n stuff not because they are blue (didnt even realize they were blue, lol)

also- whats the point of the solid metal gearbox ? (besides the fact it gets me aroused) :p

[GTracer22]

Dexters- get some pro line wheels and tires or also Treadz offers some nice pre-mounted tires that will fit you Gt.

CGV- aroused?? I hope its at least anodized blue!
:D :D

[atm92484_3]

Dexters, I'd reccomend Proline wheels but they will not fit the 1/4" RTR axles. If you are interested, I'll look around and get the part number for a 3/16" axle used on the Nitro DSs but it will fit the GT RTR and allow you to use a wider array of wheels. The only downside is you will have to change the 1/4" rear bearings in the Dynamite set to 3/16" bearings (just means spending a few extra dollars). The 3/16" bearings are more durable though.

Depending on what you are doing, Proline also has a nice selection of tires.

Good luck and great choice.

BTW check Horizon Hobbies (http://www.horizonhobby.com) for Dynamite bearings.

[dexters]

Thanks guys, ATM yeah I would be interested on doing what you said. Whats the Nitro DSs?? I'm planning on getting the MIP shiny CVD's 3/16. What are the best ball bearings I could get for the RTR GT? Thanks

[Railman]

Whitester, Good luck at Columbus. I just checked out their warm up race results, & Adam Drake decided to show anyway. He tq'd & won... Jesse Robbers qualified 2nd, & place 2nd. A short while ago Adam said he said he wasn't going to make it this year, but I guess things changed. I believe they had 145 or gassers so for the warm up race! Good luck!
Joe

[atm92484_3]

Nitro DS is the car version of the GT. They are pretty sweet. I have one and its a tank.

Anyways, the axle is part number 8868.

[FTR]

well i got mr pipe today i actually got the stinger. and i am so damn glad i got it. its got the 3 best things about a pipe
*crome
*powerful
*load enough to piss off the neighbors(even got a few off the middle fingers)


sofar it kicks ass i will have further update tomaro

[DLF]

Just wondering if you guys have had any problems with a plastic carb arm on the GT. My OS carb has one and it's being a pain. At one point the servo will go to neutral at the idle of the carb, but won't get to full throttle. I can adjust it to get full throttle but then only get idle if I hit the brake. I know a longer throw servo arm would help, but I can also see the carb arm flexing way too much. I was thinking of making a metal carb arm instead. Anyone have any past stores on this subject? Thanks.

Dana F

[FTR]

well i use a rotery os carb. yes it gave me a bit of a hard time but i find that if you play with the trim in about 5-15 minuts you will have it right

[DLF]

I agree. ANd this was the case at first. However, after some time, I think the arm has more flex in it than it did before.

Dana F

[Got Speed]

Hey FTR for the bolts I used three coats of transparent blue.
You have to let it dry for a day before you can spray another coat.

[driller]

I still a little confused about what mAh & brand of batteries Ishould get for my gt and what about my hitec radio? nicads or
Nickel Metal Hydride
whats a good charger?

need lots of help
driller

[Siro]

I suggest a Trinity NI-MH RX battery, its 1100+ mAH and they make one specificly for the RC10GT. The part number is RC5301

Here's a pic;
http://www.teamtrinity.com/graphics/prodimg/1776355.jpg
More details (http://www.teamtrinity.com/hotstuff/2/findex.html)

As for chargers i don't really bother, at the end of the day they all do the same job.

[atm92484_3]

The Trinity NiMh are great choices for packs. For a charger, I'd reccomend a Hobbico Accucycle. I have one and its a great charger but you will end up paying a little more for it.

[bolink]

hey guys,i just got in from runnin a tank in my GT,had a blast,thiers a elementary school about 100 yards from my backdoor,and thier was kids out at recess so i set up a ramp,about 4 ft high ,was getting about 8-9ft of air,the kids were yelling things like "Jump the Ramp!!" and the funniest thing they yelled was "hey big kid bring it over here!!" i acted like i didnt hear them,cause if i woulda went over there the teachers probly woulda got PO'ed at me,then when i ran out of fuel the yelled "aww chicken,dont put it away" it was funny,they really liked when i hit this snow bank at WOT and "blew" throught it,or when it slid,hit a curb,flipped,landed on wheels,i hit the gas,spun out,flipped again,landed on wheels,then hit the gas wheelied about 5 feet and flipped again,this time landin on the lid,but b4 i got to it it died,but then when i brought it in to put after run in it i noticed that the air filter was off (i though it was running lean) but i think its all right cause i spit on the head a few times and it took 5-8 sec. for it to boil away,and it still gets good comp. i wasnt runnin in dirt,mainly snow,you think it will cause any problem later on down the road?

[driller]

what do you guys think about this bugger?
*Hobbico Accu-Cycle Plus Battery Cycler*


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXL358&P=7

[CGV]

got speed- whats the part number on the chassis brace???

[atm92484_3]

Driller, that is similar to the one I have except I have the regular Accucycle (not the Plus). It has a few less features but it still gets the job done.

BTW the main reason I have the charger is for my RC plane batteries and it just happens to work with car batteries also. Since NiMh packs do not need discharged, any NiMh charger should do just fine. I just bought a better charger so I wouldn't have to get one in the future for another application; just something to consider.

[Got Speed]

CGV-The part number for the trinity rear brace is TK5065. They make expensive parts but most of em are worth it. Here is a link to there RC10GT parts http://www.teamtrinity.com/home.cgi/hotstuff

[FTR]

AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. i got a huge problame in 1 tank i snaped 2 cvd pins what am i doing wrong

[EbayGTDisaster]

probably taking it out of the house:D:p

[speedydave]

I drove a tricked out GT on monday, man was that fun! I gotta go gas...

[ilovemygt]

iam only running 20% blue thunder race formula after i run a gallon of that iam gonna switch to 25%

[Got Speed]

Does anyone make offset wheel hexes for the GT?

[highonnitro]

hey dudes, now that i have the money im gonna buy the truck ive always wanted and the rc10gt is it. now the only problem is deciding which one i want, its either i get the team or the factory team, im thinking to get the factory team but im mostly gonna use it for just runnning around and maybe but probably not racing. i want the one that would be most durable but if the team is as good as the factory team, performance wize and durability wize, ill just save a little money and get it but if you guys think the factory team is worth the extra money, then ill get it. also is there anything i should get as a hopup or something which i would definitly need for extra durability, im gona get the mip 4 in 1 clucth but anything else besides that, also how fast do you think your trucks go with normal os engines in them like a hyper. bye

[Jwelch]

I just got back from a weekend of skiing. Pretty good too. I miss running my GT, and I would NEVER run it in snow again. Drying and cleaning it afterwards is a big hassle. I'm waiting for my starter box and RPM goodies to arrive from Tower, and they should be here in about 40 minutes or so. I just got a new Sierra body for ProLine. Any suggestions on paint designs? I'm just using a can with some liquid mask. I was thinking flames myself....

-John

[Got Speed]

newtonitro-I would get the factory team.

As for hopups I would say-
1 better engine such as a collari, novarossi, or something along
those lines.

2 Trinity rear brace(there is a link to it on the last page)

3 steel bolts

[atm92484_3]

High, the FT GT is a great truck, not to mention its extremely durable. For hop-ups, I'd reccomend a receiver box (look on page 14 and 18 to see mine) and some Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gears. Other than that, you should be set.

BTW a great engine for the GT is a 12 CV-R or 12 CV-RX if you are considering upgrading later.

[highonnitro]

hi again, thanks for you replies, i was thinking about getting the os .12 cv-rx because i like pullstart engines and this engine has plenty of power and speed for me. how fast do you think the ftgt with go with this engine running on blue thunder 20% with the stock gear set-up, im guessing around 40-45, this is where i want it. thanks again, if theres anyone else willing to give me advice for this truck then please do so, i am gonna order it hopefully by the first of Feb. from tower. i am gonna buy the engine and radio after i sell my rc plane equip. which i should get like $300 for. you should start to see me alot on this forum so nice meeting you guys, bye

[EbayGTDisaster]

if ever u wanna upgrade and not spend an arm and a leg for an engine, i think the m-16 is wonderful, it's got twice as much bhp as the o.s. .12 and i haven't had a problem with it yet, and the shaft fit perfectly right out of the box.

[dexters]

I posted this in the Nitro Forum but thought it would be better to post here.

Hey guys, I got my GT RTR yesterday and love this machine. It took about 5 pulls to start it and it ran until the first tank was gone. It broke in very good and runs great. I have about 6 tanks through it. One question though. I was wondering where the restrictor plate is located in the carb? Whats the white plastic peice under the air filter?? Is that the Restrictor Plate?? Should I take it out? Does anyone have any problems with the steering? My wheels seem like they don't turn all that great? Whats the adjustment do in the front steering where you can turn the nut to tighten or loosen it? I didn't see any change when I loosened it or tightened it? Am I doing something wrong? Thanks for the help guys.

[atm92484_3]

Dexters, yes that white piece is the carb restrictor, but I'd reccomend keeping it in. You'll find the truck easier to drive. If you do remove it though, make sure you richen the mixture since more air will be able to enter the carb.

For the steering, make sure your batteries are good. Also check the travel adjuster (I forget the technical term) above the throttle for the steering and make sure its set to max. Another thing to remember is the GT RTR includes a standard servo for steering and its not the best.

[dexters]

atm, thanks for the help. Its got to be the steering rate adjuster on my steering problem. I don't know why I never thought of it. thanks :rolleyes:

[59HemiHearse]

Hey man look i finally got a board name woohoo!! lol... racin gt's gor 7 years now!! hahaa

[violator757]

its about time hearse you slacker lol
i ran my gt the other day it is hauls i forgot about how fast it is even with my punny powerplntit still is crazy fast on asphalt and in myu back yard i nver thought i could pop a whellie but when i hit a small bump i rode a whellie for about 20 feet tha ony thing i broke was a ball link thngy and thats all ttyl

[RC Freak]

i have an rc10gt and it has an os cv .12. i have the motor tuned great but sometimes when the fuel tank gets half way empty it will stall. and wont crank back up until it sits for about 5 min. it also stalls sometimes when i go full throttle and then hit the brakes and spin it arround. i really need to know how to fix this problem bc i have to pit twice as much as the other trucks at my local track.

[atm92484_3]

RC Freak, it sounds to me like your engine is either too lean, has too low of an idle, or the piston and sleeve are worn and need replaced. I'd check them in the order I listed and see if that helps.

good luck

[hotmodrc]

I thought you guys mught be interested in this contest for a crescenzi gt brake system for the rc10gt.
http://www.rcnfo.com/
click on the contests button or here:
http://www.rcnfo.com/contests.htm

hotmodrc

[dexters]

Guys, I put my MIP 4-n-1 clutch in my GT RTR today and holy crap. Does this thing make a difference or what. The take off speed is awesome from the original clutch. I had to completly take the motor off in order to get the flywheel off. All those parts are crammed together on these things! :D Anyways, I just wanted to say this truck is great. One question for you, is it common to have the same glow plug in it since the first time I started it? I have about 7-9+ tanks in it and am still using the same glow plug. I haven't had any problems with it. Also, how hot is the engine supposed to run? I did the spit test and it stays on for about 3-6 seconds. I always have a good trail of smoke from the exhaust. Just wondering? Thanks :rolleyes:

[atm92484_3]

Dexters, it sounds like you are doing everything right with the engine. Glowplugs don't really have a set time before they go. Just use it until it goes or doesn't glow any more.

Good to hear you're enjoying the truck.

[DLF]

Hmmm...I gotta try one of theme clutches. My question is this. I'm used to the Associated 4 shoe clutch. is that what you guys were running before you went to the MIP? If so, what do you mean by "a big difference"? I know that may be hard to explain, but try. :D

Thanks.
Dana F

[DLF]

Oh, and BTW, I just put a Trinity TK1200 motor mount brace on my GT. It does seem to do quite a good job of stiffening that area of the chassis. To me, that area around the engine always had too much flex.

Dana F

[ritchies rc10gt]

ok what the &*$% is up with this?after playing around with different things i finally got my engine to run cool,but only till the fuel level was below the spot where the tank is glued together.checked tank for air leaks and its fine.so i thought my header was the problem since i ported it.i bought a new header but now it overheats withing 5 minutes again.any thoughts?

[TRXboy]

Alright here's and intresting problem, my cluch bearing's(or cluch, havent figured it out yet) start sticking to the cluch bell after use(and during) i noticed it when i was done, there was somthign binding but i couldent figure it out, couldent see anything(truck wouldent roll smothly) so i went up stairs, made my self a sandwich(i was hungry, what can i say) came down stairs and it roled fine...i dunno...

[Got Speed]

If there is a crack in the exaust coupler can it cause your engine to run too lean? Does anyone have trouble with there shocks popping of when the bump a wall or something? I was running yesterday my GT on a dirt oval yesterday and if I bumped the wall the bottom of the shock would pop right off the bolt. It happened about 7 times yesterday. Should I put a washer over the bolt or get new shock ends? Also aren't the RPM ball cups supposed to stay on better than the stock ones?

Thanks

[hotmodrc]

Using small washers is the best solution for this problem.
But keep in mind the whole reason they use ball ends is to keep from damaging other parts of the truck. In a high stress situation (crash etc.) the ball ends pop off reducing/eliminating stress to the chassis, shock towers, bulkhead etc. The rpm ball ends use a larger hole in the cup, giving the rods more play so in essence yes they tend to stay on better. The washer will keep the shocks on. If the coupler has a crack in it, itshouldn't cause the engine to run lean, it will make the engine noisier and decrease backpressure. Always replace the coupler when it is old or damaged, it only costs a few bucks anyway.

[Leinzey]

After all this time, I still don't have my GT running. I oredered a starter box about 4 weeks ago from Ace-Hobbies, but it never came, so my mom cancelled the order because they hadn't even charged the credit card. I guess now I'll order it from Tower and save a few bucks now that they have a special on the OFNA starter boxes. Hopefully I'll get the engine broken in by next sunday or so. And hopefully we'll get around to getting a digital camera soon too. Oh, and by the way, does the body that comes with the FTGT have an overspray film on it? ...I didn't want to go picking at it to find out and then end up putting a hole in it:rolleyes:.

[hotmodrc]

Sounds ike your on your way. If you do get an ofna box get the 1/8-1/10 single motor starter box. It comes unassembled in a kit, and can be pricey but is the best for the GT or any other for that matter. Part number= 10258 Retail is $110.95
I can't remember exactly but I don't think it has a overspray film, mostly becuase it's a pro-line body, and as cool as pro-line bodies are, they still don't come with the overspray film.
Just buy a small bottle of BOLINK body wash. It's like 4-5 bucks and will remove any overspray you get on the outside of the body.

hotmodrc

[TRXboy]

Did anybody here ever have a day were your GT ran so perfict, that when you get home from Running you just sorta stair at it? Geez that was my day, Went some BMX trail running today...I think thats all i need to say eh? :D Enginen ever cut out, figired out what was sticking with the cluch, and did not break one part, tefinetly put my new ...... to the test.... ;)

[violator757]

ok my story is kinda like trxboy's i when to the local bmx track and when i first got the i was like *** they where redoing the track the where nig hills and mounds of dirt the only thing that looked like a track where some of the biger sized turns so i got my gt warmed up and hit the dirt i tryed my hardest to break something honest i was jumping it as high as i could get it about 15 feet at the most and i bnroke nothing i was goint in the mud and spinning it everywhere it was great right when i was getting ready to leave i was running out the last bit of fuel and i lost the 2 screws that hold the spur on the slipper assyambly other than that it was a great day if not one of the best days that i have run my gt its the best rc car i have ever owned it great and i never though it would be that tuff i cant wait till they get the track like its supposed to be then i can get more speed and speed plus a hill equals more air lol and im only running a ofa force .12s and it still has lots of power i cant belive it my mom woulndt let me take the dig cam to the track but i did take pics of my truck when i got home hehehe

[gedertr]

I have NEVER had a day when my GT DIDN'T run perfect and leave me in amazement!

[dexters]

LMAO...I went out to the boat docks today and ran my GT. This truck runs so good with the AE .15, I didn't have one engine issue! Here was my problem though. First, I roasted my back stock tires off. Completely rubber slicks on the back. Other problem is right before I was going to leave I ramped it one final time but did not succeed, flipped forwards upside down and landed on the engine head and rear shock tower. Total damage= 1 broken rear bulkhead, 1 right rear a-arm, 1 left rear shock cap Now my question is?... What should i get to replace these parts? Should I go with a plastic composite or aluminum on these peices?
Any experiences with these? Thanks guys.

One other thing, "I love this hobby!!" :D

[EbayGTDisaster]

go with plastic composite, aluminum doesn't flex and is more ideally suited for show on the suspension parts. question, would u rather spend 10 dollars to replace the part you broke for plastic, or would that run into the wall be worth 40 dollars???:p

[ritchies rc10gt]

i have all aluminum arms on my GT.ive hit everything but the track and all i seem to break the most are the rear arm mounts.once in a while ill break a screw or rip a screw out of the front bulk head.i havebt bent an arm either.and believe me i hit everything from sidewalks to parked cars.

ATM,ive been using the proline wheels on my RTR without changing anything.unless your talking about different rims than the ones that look stock

[atm92484_3]

Ritchies, these are the Proline rims I'm talking about:

http://www.gpmd.com/images/proc2650.JPG

Dexters, without a doubt, replace the parts with stock plastic ones. If you are a basher and do no racing, you might want to look at the RPM nylon products. They flex more (so not as good for racing) so they will give more in a crash. Just replace the shock cap and whatever else is broken with stock parts or you can shoot for blue aluminum caps.

http://www.gpmd.com/images/rpmc7035.JPG (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXEU86&P=7)

http://www.gpmd.com/images/rpmc7040.JPG (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXEU88&P=7)

http://www.gpmd.com/images/rpmc7030.JPG (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXEU83&P=7)

(click pics)

I'm still running all stock parts and I've only broken a rear bulkhead and tranny brace once. I know TRX will vouch that the RPMs hold up better in crashes though. :D

Good luck

[FTR]

well after 10 double back flips the stock bulk gave out . eversince i had the rpm bulf i have been jumping higher and higher( gonna go for the tripple back flip once i get a new clutch and bearings)


also was this stupid:

i did not like the way the pressure line was on the tank. so i meleted that with a sorering iron and drilled a hole outand put in a 90 degree pressure tap. theni foud out that i cloged the the tap. now i have a high speed nedle on there so now i can ajust te presuue in my tank ( **SHIBBY**). what do you guys think of that

[DLF]

I put an automobile brake bleeding nipple in the pipe hole a long time ago. Got tired of the hose coming out of the pipe during a race.

Dana F

[TRXboy]

Anyone know of good alumnium C-Hubs( Prefably not GPM) My stockers keep getting toasted...

[Jungle]

Hey guys, here's my first paint job on a GMC body. What do you think? Not nearly as good as some I've seen on these boards, but I'm happy with it!!!
:D

[FTR]

jungle: that is a very very VERY nice body how long did it take to paint

[Jungle]

FTR, much less time than it looks. I cheated! :D

I drew the graphics in CorelDraw and printed them (reversed) on 8.5 x 11 clear Avery label sticker sheets. I put them on the truck and backed them with Silver to show through the trasparent areas and painted the rest of the body blue, threw on some stickers that came with the body and I was done. It took longer to cut it out and make the air holes than it did to design, print and paint.

[FTR]

aaaaaah you didn't really paint it you just clicked the print button.lol J/K

[Jungle]

Whatever works! :)

[Got Speed]

Well I was thinking that if a coupler had a leak in it then it would not supply the same amount of pressure to the fuel tank causing it to push less fuel into the carb.

[DLF]

Hey all. I thought I saw somewhere that AE had several different sets of rear arm carriers for the GT with different toe-ins. The stock ones are #7651. These are 3 degrees toe in and 0 degrees anti-squat. The only other ones I've found have 3 degrees toe-in and 2 degrees anit-squat. I thought they had some with less toe in. The 3 degrres seems like WAAAAYY too much to me. In fact, I think less toe in and more anti squat would get rid of alot of on throttle push.

Someone have some part numbers?

Dana F

[Railman]

DLF, If you want to run less rear toe in, use the 1 1/2' hub carriers, & swap sides. That will cancel out part of the 3' arm blocks, and give 1 1/2 ' toe in on each side. The older GT's came std with 3' arm blocks, & 0' hub carriers, but all the fast guys started running 3' + 1 1/2' at the hubs. So when they came out with the factory team, they made it std. at 3' + 1 1/2' for a total of 4 1/2' each side.
Joe

[ritchies rc10gt]

i was out running my GT yesterday and no matter how rich i had the needles it was running hot.but it would stay running even if it was bogging.my backplate leaks alot of oil into the one way bearing.could it be sucking air through by the pullstart shaft?if i had starter box i could convert to nonpullstart and see if it helps but i dont have one

[DLF]

Heh...ok, Railman. I think you lost me. My GT is an old team kit with the tub chassis (I prefer the tub over the flat chassis because of it's rigidness). The entire rear of the truck has all the new parts...including the carrier blocks. So, tell me what I need to get rid of some of the toe in.

Dana F

[atm92484_3]

DLF, believe it or not, the plate is more rigid. When you get a chance, I'd reccomend upgrading. My GT started with a tub chassis and the upgrade made a noticeable difference in its handling. Plus I haven't stripped a gear since.

[Siro]

Hi, does anyone who owns a RTR or GT w/Associated .15 engine know if the engine manual of the Associated .15 is accurate? breaking in and needle settings etc etc?

Thnx

[bolink]

Ive heard some people say the ofna throttle linkage kit works better than the stock one on the GT,Is this true,and is this the one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBM06&P=7 ??
Thanks
Bolink

[dexters]

ATM, I am going to order those RPM pieces. I heard those are probably the best for bashing. Like you said. I have another question for you though or anyone that knows? I got some Road Hawgs II for my GT. Front and back. But what wheels can I get for the GT RTR? I'm going to get the MIP Shiny CVD's 3/16 for the back. Whats the size in the front, or how do they measure that? I'm wanting to get wheels but am very confused on that part. Seems like there's not many out there for the GT RTR. Front and back. Help me if you know what I should do? Thanks guys.:D

[59HemiHearse]

if u get the CVD's you'll need 3/16th bearings (4 of em) and 3/16th inch rear wheels, the fronts the packages just says wheels: for GTor T3 truck... simple as dat

[59HemiHearse]

I am really starting to get pissed with my GT throttle linkage, i tried the little black things but they always fell off.. and now i have lost like 4 of those gold collars trying to replace it with something better, any ideas? oh yeah and i keep blowing out bell bearings, i have done all i can think of, new fluwheel collet washer shaft bearings bells and nothin will stay for more than a couple runs, if it matters im runnin a CV-r Also what is a good tire for grass, and another tire for wet, packed dirt, one for all around bashing, and a street tire, so 4 new sets of tires woohoo lol... oh yeah... and what kinda hop ups are good? i mean been racing for a long long time... but never really done any hop ups... so whats good?

Hemi

[ritchies rc10gt]

a small screw up

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by bolink
Ive heard some people say the ofna throttle linkage kit works better than the stock one on the GT,Is this true,and is this the one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBM06&P=7 ??
Thanks
Bolink


that is the linkage i am using on my GT and HPI nitro rush.it works great.another hopup that ranks in the top with the MIP4-n-1 clutch

hey hearse,hows the hearse comin?for your linkage i also recomend the ofna kit to you.my stock one fell off and i chased around the fairgrounds last year.and for you bearings i am running dynamite red sealed bearings for my clutch bell and they havent come apart yet.someone here also said to run 3 bearings instead of 2,i think it was ATM.also check your clutch nut for grooves worn in it by the bearings.mine also did this.i replaced the nut and bearings and havent had a problem.tires for grass i am using proline dirt paws,the ones with the big nubs.and for a wet dirt track ive had good luck with the bow ties.for street im running road hawgs.all around bashing i also use the bowties

[linus]

How does the GT stack up to the Team Losi XXX-NT?

I heard rave reviews about the Team Losi although the GT won best truck in the GAS divisions.

Anyone have any personal experience with these two trucks? Any links to websites with reviews will also help.

Linus

[atm92484_3]

Hearse, if you do not want to buy another linkage kit, take a left over gold wheel collar (like the ones used on the stock linkage), get one of the button heat screws that hold the spur gear on, and enlarge the hole on the sevro horn. Just put a tiny drop of CA onto the screw after you put it through the horn and screw the wheel collar on. Just make sure the linkage can still move. I did this and its yet to fail me.

good luck

[dexters]

Whats the easiest way of getting tires off the wheels? I've spent 30 minutes on one back tire and still haven't gotten it off. Team Associated acted like they used a whole bottle of glue on them. Is there an easy trick that I'm missing or is it just work your butt off! :D

[hotmodrc]

Boiling the tires and rims in a pot of water will remove the rubber from the rim.
\
hotmodrc

[dexters]

hotmodrc, hey I'll have to try that. it won't hurt the white plastic wheels or anything? Thanks

[Got Speed]

Has anyone ever mounted there batt pack in the front of the truck? I am trying to do that right now.

[hotmodrc]

Dexters,
no I have boiled rims at excessive heats and have had no problem. But do not get xrazy, a rolling boil is sufficient. It doesn't melt the tire, just neutrelizes the glue.

GotSpeed,
I have never done this but I don't think it is a good idea. The GT is a relativley light truck to begin with. Keep in mind that the GT is a rear wheel drive vehicle so the rear wheels need the weight from the battery pack to give the rear wheels traction. You can try it, but my guess is your rear end will end up fishtailing and being less stable than with it in the rear.


hotmodrc

[new2it]

I have baked tires at 300 for 1/2 hour, They come right off. Try it, it works. I have boiled them too. Baking is better. It does not hurt the wheels. Go to WNYRC home page, there is a small article on removing tires. I wrote it.

I have put my battery pack in the front, and the rear has no traction. Fishtaill is all you will get. I am thinking about 3 Nimh AAs in the back and 2 in the front. This should keep things even and keep the front end down. 1650 Nimh AAs weigh about an ounce each. Right now I use a 5 pack of AAAs 700 Mah. They weigh 2.5 oz for the whole pack. They will run 3 heats and a main with power to spare. I also have a high torque steering sevo.

My question for the day. I went to the Winter gas championships. Before the race, I rebuilt my truck including RPM ballcups. The ballcups kept popping off. I ended up putting a washer on the front shock bolt, and cured that problem, but the tie rod ends kept coming off. I am thinking of going to Traxxas captured ball ends. These ballcups and my crummy driving cost me a lot of time broke down. By the time i raced the main, I crawled around the track so nothing would break. Has anybody done this? People tell me these are supposed to come off so nothing breaks,. I can't believe something would have broken everytime the things popped off. I didn't finish any of my qualifiers at all because of this problem. I did finish 4th in the Z main only because I drove real slow and got no air at all.

Thanks for your comments

D. Root

[DLF]

I too added weight to the front of my GT. However, removing weight in the rear to place it in the front doesn't seem like a good idea. I simply taped some weights (a few ounces worth) to the front body bracket and it made alot of difference in handling.

Dana F

[hotmodrc]

New2it,

The RPM ballcups do have more "play" than stock, I have not had a problem with them popping off. It sounds like it ruined your race day. To solve your problem buy Racer's Edge pivot ball ends. I think thats what they're called, they look just like shock ends, then you can put washers behind them.

[Railman]

New2it, CRCRC has outrageous traction & the loads on the ball cups are just too much. Virtually eveyrone runs captured ends there. You might want to also check out Rocket City captured ends. They are very popular. I also like cut down T3 front steering arms for the same reason. They flex much less, reduce servo load, & in my opinion, help the steering geometry.

On the battery location thing, I tried to post a post last night on the subject, but it wouldn't up load to the site for some reason. Anyway, I did 2 GT's with 4 AA's in the rear with 1 in the front right behind the bumper. It was very neat, & the batt tucked in low & secure. The only problem was the wire lead to the rear batts caused glitches. It wasn't severe, but it was hard to figure out, & happened at inopertune moments. It happened on both trucks, & went away when front batt was remeoved. My suggestion would be to try 5 nmh AAA's in the rear instead. They are about 700mha & should give plenty of run time.
Joe

[Got Speed]

Yeah i'll probably try something like that. I didn't think of what would happen if i took weight off the rear:rolleyes: . I had the same problem with my RPM ball cups. I guess I am going to get captured ball ends too. Is anyone running a Cirrus CS-80 for their steering servo?

[Leinzey]

I just ordered my starter box today, trimmed the flywheel pins for my 4-in-1, and got to checking out my diff. It turns out I just had it set too loose. I know this is going to be hard to explain, but what does it feel like when the spring is compressed all the way? This is my first experience with a ball diff...and I'm lost. And by the way, is there supposed to be any type of grease in the tranny? The manual doesn't say to use any, but it just seems somewhat odd to me. Thanks

[atm92484_3]

The tranny gears are self lubing so you do not need any grease. As for the spring, just watch the "ears" on the nylon piece and once they reach the end of the outdrive, the spring is usually compressed.

[59HemiHearse]

Okay my CV-r is toast, I need a new engine, so what ya reccomend? im not doin much racing anymore, but i want alot of power and torque, oh and thanks for the help with my linkages, ofna works like a charm, also i still need some good tires. i need a new throttle servo and a steering servo, any suggestions? thanks alot everyone.. oh yeah anyone hear of that HG ultimate kit? it looks cool and ive got some cash to blow... what ya think? thanks everyone Cyas

[Jungle]

Hemi, if you want some serious traction, go with Pro-Line Gladiators. I run them on my T3 and GT and can go full throttle everywhere stock tires can only go half.

Sand paddles are the most fun, though. :p

[OldskoolGT]

Hi all,

I have a truly old school GT, the box is stamped Feb 14, 1994. Can anyone beat that?

My old GT has been sitting in the closet for many years, so it was quite a pleasant surprise to see that the RC10GT's 8 year old design has not really changed too much and yet is still one of the best trucks money can buy. Even the engine (O.S. CZ-Z) in my GT did not become obsolete since the O.S. CV engines use the same internals. May the RC10GT's reign of terror never end. :p

Eric L.

[59HemiHearse]

gt i bought NIB never opened last year, nov. 17th 93... i beat ya

[ronin8451]

The only drawback is the chassis, yes it looks cool ,but it's the same length as the "tub" and RTR and uses the RTR nose tube braces not the Factory Team ones. A local hobby shop owner has this chassis and has also had to put a pullstart flywheel on it just to get the starter box to grab the flywheel!! Now he has a flywheel sticking through the bottom ( not good when you bottom out and it kills your engine). It seems the chassis is thicker where the engine bolts up and needs a little milled off the non pull motor mounts. The other problem is in mounting the steering servo. The milled step running behind the servo makes it hard to mount most servos as they "ride up" on the lip and you have to space your servo way over to the center of the chassis just to get it to sit flat. Hope this helps!:D

[59HemiHearse]

Thanks bro ill stick to the pretty blue one! oh yeah and ps... BUMP

[Leinzey]

Well, I'm moving in the right direction, but I'm still having trouble. When I get the "ears" to the end of the outdrive, and then back out the screw 1/8 of a turn, the diff is smooth, but it needs a fair amount of pressure to turn. Is it supposed to be that way? Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Yes the diff should require some pressure to turn. Remember the truck puts extra force on the outdrives due to the larger tires so its not really that hard in the end.

[atm92484_3]

ttt

[kloyal]

will m16 enigine fit in r/c gt team built truck???:D

[atm92484_3]

Yes it will fit as long as its the short shaft.

[TRXboy]

I run my diff pretty much cranked down as far as it will go, seems to do ok, dont need an extreamly good handleing truck, all i do is bash it.

[hotmodrc]

kloyal,

Get the M16 designed for the T-MAXX. It s a drop in replacement for the GT since they both have short shafts.

hotmodrc

[Got Speed]

Well I broke my first arm ever in all the time I have ever been in RC. I went off this jump at my track at full throttle every thing looked fine until I saw the wall coming closer and closer and THUD. Broke my arm and shock end. If the diff isn't smooth turning and is kinda bumpy feeling is it time for a rebuild? If so am I supossed to just replace the balls? I hahve never rebuilt a ball diff so I have no idea???:confused:

Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Ya its about time for a rebuild when they feel gritty. Depending on how old the parts are, you might just be able to get away with disassembling the diff and cleaning everything, then relubing and reassembling it. If its still gritty, then its time invest in one of AEs gas truck diff rebuild kit.

[ritchies rc10gt]

well now that i figured out how to post pics,heres one of my GT after some fun in the mud

[ritchies rc10gt]

oh i forgot,notice the HPI wheels on the back?

[kloyal]

my teambuilt rc10gt

[Got Speed]

How do you post pictures?

[DLF]

I've seen some pics of this carbon fiber plate on some of the GT's. This is an aftermarket plate that uses the two screws on the side of the throttle servo mounts to hold a plate. Who makes this part?

Thanks.
Dana F

[Got Speed]

I made my own with a piece of sheet metal that I am going to cut a bunch of slots in to lighten it.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=falcon247&album_id=47955&image_id=3&courtesy=1

[atm92484_3]

DLF, I'm not sure if you are going for some receiver protection or what, but if you cannot find one of those, consider the new Trinity Receiver box for the GT or a T-Maxx one like I did.

[DLF]

Reciever and servo protection is what I'm looking for...at least for side impacts. Head to page 18 of this thread. Gokou has a pic showing the plate I want. Gokou, you out there? :D
Dana F

[Railman]

Goku custom made that protective side cover. You could easily make one from lexan also. If you can find a local plastics shop, they usually will sell scraps for very reasonable prices.
Joe

[dexters]

Went out for about 3 minutes Saturday and my brother hits my GT RTR head on with his Overdrive ST. He was going full speed and I was sitting still. He didn't mean to do it but accidently went by me to close. I think he hit my right side with my throttle servo because afterwards when ever I floored it, the servo would not hold and keep slipping. Put a cheapy Towers servo on until I can replace it. What kind of servo should I get? And whats the best throttle and break linkage setup for the gt RTR? I want to look into that also. When I changed my servo I had to rig my throttle linkage up. I'll post a pic later today. Other than that it was just a sucky ass weekend with the RC hobby. Thanks for the help guys.

[GTracer22]

For a good throttle servo youshould check out the the HITEC Metal gear servos they are great! Also the Ofna Throttle Linkage set is a great upgrade, it helps alot.:D

[Got Speed]

For an inexpensive steering servo that works great get the CS-80 from www.hobbypeople.com. It has like 130 oz in of torque and it is a little slow at .2 seconds but it works.

[atm92484_3]

Hitec 615MGs are also good. I think they are about 140 oz @ 6v.

[dm76]

Hey guys,
I just got my RC10gt this week and I am so excited about getting this thing to run!!!!
What kind of reciever packs do you guys run? and how do you go about charging them? Distro helped me out with a link to Tower for an adapter, but I am curious on how some of you charge your reciever packs.

[DLF]

atm92484_3, you don't by chance have a part number or a picture or something of this box by Trinity you're talking about, do you? I can't seem to find anything on it.

Dana F

[TRXboy]

http://www.rccaraction.com/articles/images/snoproof/4.jpg

[ritchies rc10gt]

ok now i have a servo problem.now ive been running these 2 servos since i bought my gt.i have a Hitech 615mg for my steering and the stock cheapy for my throttle.now ive never had a problem with them.now when i turn my steering the throttle servo moves it will either go full throttle or just keep twitching..ive tried changing recievers and also tried the TX for my rush,changing crystals,took the seros and reciever out of the rush.the only thing that seems to somewhat stop it is if i either run both plastic gear servos or both hitech 615 mg servos together.but even them the throttle still twitches when i turn the wheels.all the batteries are brand new. all my wiring is good.and it even does it when its not running,with no linkages on either servo.any ideas?i dont wanna spend a ton of money on a new radio system for it at this time especially if its something stupid that i cant find

[mississippi]

I WANT THAT BOX! heheh

So, were can I purchase that receiver box at?

Thanks

[DLF]

That's what I'm trying to find out. I think it's made by Trinity.

Dana F

[CGV]

yeah the box looks pretty sweet. annoying caus RCCA didnt include the p# w/ the picture. FYI tower doesnt sell it tho, goto stormer hobbies and search "radio box" and it will pop up!

[lowbugit]

I am having a problem with my GT but im not sure if it is specific to the engine or the truck. I have a GT and I run an OS CVR .12 in the truck. It was fine for awhile then the flywheel started spinning on the collet and we all know that will not do. Last week I replaced the collet with a new one and 10 minutes of running later flywheel spins again. Any ideas what is wrong here what am I doing wrong, any tips on how to better do this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kevin.

[DLF]

Heh...it's odd that someone posted this question. I have a GT and a Mugen. I've always used a pair of channel locks or pliers to hold the flywheel when I tighten that nut. I've never had a problem. Last weekend I helped a friend put his GT togeather. I tightend that nut the same way. After two tanks, the thing came loose. Don't have a clue why.

Dana F

[bolink]

my flywheel did that about 4 times last week,i ended up putting a lock washer between the nut,and the flywheel,i tried loctite every time but it still didnt work,till i put that washer on it,works fine now

[Railman]

It could be that the threaded shaft needs to be trimmed down, or that you might need to add a shim washer behind the flywheel. If the clutch nut bottoms out on the shaft, it won't apply the needed pressure to the collet/flywheel. I like to custom shim my flywheel so that the clutch bell is in perfect alignment with the spur. I've never had a flywheel come loose, & neither has my son. I've also seen some clutch nuts that weren't threaded properly. They would have caused the same type of problem. Are you shure you're using the right shims behind the flywheel? I also prefer red locktite on the clutch nut, but most would say it's not necesary, & that it's too hard to remove with red. All you have to do to remove it, is to heat the nut to break down the locktite. How often do you really need to remove a clutch nut anyway?
Joe

[DR.GT]

Ritchi my boy:

Sounds like the servos are acting up causing noise=glitching. You can also try someone elses radio that works good with your servos. That will help pinpoint if its the servos or not. If they work with this new system then its either in your transmitter, reciever or crystals or wiring. Let us know.

Hope this helps ya...

[Railman]

DR.GT, Are you going to continue 1/10 gas racing? I just noticed your selling your GT. It's always good to have another experienced racer on board, & I hope you check in now & then.
Joe

[Got Speed]

Does anyone race dirt oval?

[ritchies rc10gt]

i figures it out.i got a bad batch of batteries.i found some batteries with the power check thing on them and they were still good .popped them in and it works perfect.its strange cause i even tried the batteries out of my rush that worked perfect and it still did it.oh well,time to find all my rechargables.thanks for the help

[earnhardtjr]

I got a new GT for Christmas; well actually I bought it for myself and told my wife it was a Christmas present, which I plan to race this coming year. Last year I was racing a NRustler. I saw the post a page back or so about the captured ball ends. I was wondering if the captured ball ends that I have on my Rustler would work on my GT or do I need to go to a different type. I believe the posts I was looking at showed a pic of Racers Edge ball ends or something like that. But if I can recycle and use what I have that works for me also.

Thanks
Guy

[59HemiHearse]

guy, im almost positive you can use your old captured ballends on the GT... just make sure they arent too worn... and Got Speed i race dirt oval... alright cya everyone

[dexters]

Want to upgrade my GT's clutch bell and spur gear. I'm going to get Robinson Racing brand for sure, but not sure how many teeth on the spur and the clutch bell I should get? I read in the old GT forum that 20 tooth clutch bell and 60 tooth spur gear hits over 50mph with a .12 motor...(not sure which motor that was). Anyways, as you all know I have the RTR with the AE .15. Is there a set amount of teeth I should follow or what? Has anyone experimented with this .15 by changing the bell and spur? Thanks for the help.

[atm92484_3]

Dexters, it really depends on what kind of running you do. If you are strictly onroad, then that 20/60 combo would work (yes it will push the GT over 50 mph). I'm running an 18/65 right now with my GT with a 12 CV-R. It has a pretty good top speed and good acceleration.

[TRXboy]

Earnheartjr - Those are the caputered ball ends i use, they work fine and are very strong.

[ritchies rc10gt]

finally i was able to run my truck without problems.except for dogs trying to eat it.if you think its tuff trying to drive while 1 dog is chasing and trying to kill it try to drive with 2 dogs after it

[DLF]

Well, it looks like either a Cutlass or a Monte Carlo. Early to mid 80's model. that's the best I can do. :D

Dana F

[DLF]

Hey, what happened to the clunker on the flat bed?

Dana F

[ritchies rc10gt]

sorry it wasnt the right pic i wanted to post but here it is again.its an84 oldsmobile delta 88

[ritchies rc10gt]

here is the pic i wanted to post.if you look at the rear 1/4 you will notice i named it CHRISTINE.if you ever seen the movie christine you will know why.i ran this car 3 times.first night i thought i siezed the engine.a piece of the fan shroud got caught in the fan belts.i cut the belt and it fired right up.the second night it blew a power steering hose and caught on fire.burnt everything on the drivers side of the engine compartment including the sparkplug wires and a bunch of vacuum lines.i went out to it a few hours later and it fired up again!the third night i ran it the motor/tranny mounts broke and the motor/tranny slid ahead and dropped the driveshaft.i bet if i put a battery in it it would have started again.i have more pics if you guys wanna see them

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres my view from the drivers seat.ever try to drive with that sort of view?i did it wasnt easy try to see through the hole in the hood

[earnhardtjr]

Thanks Hemi & TRX for the info.

I just about have my GT ready to race. I am up to the part that makes me nervous. I got a .12 CV-R when I bought the GT and now I have to cut the crank. But seeing this will be my first time to do anything like that , kinda makes me nervous. But the only way to learn is do it.

Thanks
Guy

[Siro]

is there any mods you can do go the suspension or buy any to increase the ground clearence?

[dexters]

Thanks for the info ATM. Got another question for you guys. Will the new Trinity Receiver box work with the RTR receiver?? Kinda looking for a receiver box for my GT but not sure what I should get. Any experience with this would help. THanks:rolleyes:

[atm92484_3]

I'm not sure about the size of the Trinity box, but the Hitec receiver is pretty big. I can guarantee a T-Maxx box like I did will hold it though. It holds my 2PCKA's receiver fine and its the same size as the Hitec one.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by earnhardtjr
Thanks Hemi & TRX for the info.

I just about have my GT ready to race. I am up to the part that makes me nervous. I got a .12 CV-R when I bought the GT and now I have to cut the crank. But seeing this will be my first time to do anything like that , kinda makes me nervous. But the only way to learn is do it.

Thanks
Guy


just make sure you follow the instructions in the booklet that came with your gt.if you dont have it ill scan and post the page for you,or email it to you

[TRXboy]

About the Box, RCCA say's it is designed for Minni Recivers, The R2R reciver is pretty heafty, i dont htink it would fit, worth a shot tho.

As for the crank cutting, its not to hard, just go slow and follow the directions EXSACTLY, remeber, its better to cut off to little then to much.... Or, to ease your mind, you could do what i did the first time i needed a crank cut, went down to my lhs and paid them 5 bucks to do it.

[earnhardtjr]

Thanks for the support. I still have my GT manual that tells what I need to do to cut an OS engine. I have looked it over pretty good and as long as I stay away from the pins on the flywheel it looks doable. Going to borrow my brother-in-laws vice to help hold the block while I cut, so hopefully I can get it done this weekend.

Again
Thanks
Guy

[ritchies rc10gt]

i was a little nervous about cutting my first crank also even though i have cut bolts for real cars many times when i needed a certain length that just cant be found.its easy after the first one though cuz you now know how to do it.if youre worried about the flywheel pins go buy another flywheel so you can screw one up and have for the next time you need to cut a crank.like what was said its better to cut to little than to much.check twice,cut once

[mississippi]

When i cut the crank on my cvr, i just threaded on the nut that came with it and cut the crank flush with the nut. Perfect fit, never had a problem:cool:

[ronin8451]

The best way to do it is like Cliff Lett shows in the tuning video. Assemble every thing using the cutoff nut , then lightly "score" or mark the crank with the wheel then remove the flywheel and cut where you scored the crank. This keeps you from flinching or twisting the cutoff wheel and making it explode( yes, if you get it in a bind it will explode, so use a face shield, not just glasses!).:D

[Got Speed]

Siro- I have never heard of anything like that. The Big Bore shocks are longer than the AE though. Why do you want to raise the ground clearance?

[earnhardtjr]

Ronin8451 & Ritchies thank yo both for the input. I like the extra flywheel idea. Just my luck, the video with mine was toasted so I never knew they covered that.

Guy

[Siro]

to make it more off-road capable as a 2WD truck of course :rolleyes:

[Got Speed]

If you set it too high(without any mods on it) it will snap the ends of the dogbones or CVDs.

[atm92484_3]

Or if its too jacked up, its handling will suck and it will just flip over.

[CGV]

dern, just broke my rear bulkhead and tranny brace. i was going off a small jump at a really steep angle and i landed on the back. wasnt even that cold.... oh well have a TT brace on the way, should i get the RPM bulk or what?

[CGV]

dern, just broke my rear bulkhead and tranny brace. i was going off a small jump at a really steep angle and i landed on the back. wasnt even that cold.... oh well have a TT brace on the way, should i get the RPM bulk or what?

oh BTW i got the new chassis installed and the handling is 100% better, turns out the nose was bent up at least 30*'s and screwing up the steering. the purple rpm ballcups look tres sexy :D

[dexters]

I got my Duratrax bearings from Tower today. I thought they would have some literature with them but they don't. Where do all 17 bearings go beside the wheels? Will I need to put some in the Stealth Tranny? Thanks for the help:rolleyes:

[nolanr0413]

I have a gt with stock servos and they are not cutting it anymore. I want to buy a servo but have a question. Is a servo with .15 @ 93 oz. a good servo. The servo costs $40.

[DLF]

Dexters- Not sure why, but I don't cound 17. I count:

Front wheels: 4
Rear wheels: 4
Transmission: 6
What am I missing?

nolanr0413-that sounds sufficent enough to me.

Dana F

[kloyal]

my bearing on the outside of my cutch bell went to crap..... is there supposed to be a spacer between the clutchbell bearing and the
E-clip?????

[dexters]

DLF, I finally figured it out. Thanks for the help bud


8= for transmission case and front wheels
2= for transmission case
4= for rear hubs
2= for differential
1= for slipper clutch

[DR.GT]

Kloyal:

No there isn't supposed to be a spacer (washer) there....but if there is to much slack then I
suggest putting one in to take the slack up or
you will lose the clip and bearings much easier. The thin washer you put on will keep pressure on the clip and prevent it from popping off and DNF's from happening.

[CGV]

does anyone have the MIP bb steering kit? im thinking of getting it but im not sure. also does it require that you get a servo horn w/ a servo saver built into it? :confused:

[atm92484_3]

CGV, yes you will need to get a servo saver for the servo.

[kloyal]

my rc10 gt with megatech .16 engine

[Got Speed]

nolandr-Who makes this servo? Are you racing. If so oval or offroad? What is your price range?

[format13]

Hey, while taking of my rear tower i dented my stinger, i know there is a way to fix it but i don't remember, can you help?

[treedr]

plug one end and fill it with water. Plug the other end and put it in the freezer. Anxiously wait and it will disappear before your eyes!!

[treedr]

Kloyal, Thats kind of a different linkage for the brake. Does it work better than the one diagrammed in the manual? I also have a m16 in my truck, but it doesn't look as pretty as that one. Is it fairly new? Mine has a squarish black heatsink. It still rips after 3/4 gallon of Blue.

[kloyal]

it works about the same.. i lost my manual so i just put a piece of old linkage on the brake..

do you have a pic of your linkage? so i can put it on like the manual mine looks kinda sloppy.

also do you have any problems losing your eclip and bearing on the clutch bell?

[format13]

thnx!

[ritchies rc10gt]

the $100.00 day


this is what i bought today:

mip CVDs for 1/4" axles
0 degree toe in rear hub carriers
trannycase
titanium topshaft
new proline CHEVY siverado body
and a can of chezoom teal green paint
and more to come this weekend when the woman goes to maine for the weekend!

any tips or tricks for the CVDs.how do i know when its rebuild time?i made sure i used the threadlock and cranked the set screws as tight as i can get them.

[format13]

two question, when i plug the ends on my pipe when i freeze it what should i plug it with?, and should i plug everyhole? or just two?

[ritchies rc10gt]

i just finished my new body.that teal green is an awesome looking color!it looks real good except for the scratch in the windshield from the razor blade i used to cut the cooling hole with but oh well.all i have left is cut the holes for the body mounts

[ritchies rc10gt]

has anybody heard of the fantom engines?a hobby store i go to has 2 of them.they fr 15's.they come in a paintcan.are they any good?worth 230.00?

[nolanr0413]

i am not going to buy a servo anymore b/c iam going to buy a ofna hyper 7 pro. Thnks for th feedback about my servo ques.

[mississippi]

Nope not worth $230, check this out.

https://sslserver.com/stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FANF15RPS

[ritchies rc10gt]

damn talk about a price markup!.i gotta start ordering online

[earnhardtjr]

I was getting ready to order a new reciever plate & T-Maxx receiver box (so I could do the upgrade like ATM's GT) and I was also going to order some heat shrink tubing for my CVD's when I saw richie's post about his cvd order. Does anyone else use this tubing on thier cvd to help keep the little pin (that held in place by the set-screws) caputered? If they have does this work or is it a waster of time. I saw this tip in a RCCA mag I believe, or I saw it on line some where.

Also, I know this will be a stupid question but here goes. What is the deal with the plastic lock nut on the front wheels. On all the others vehicles I have, they all use metal lock nut that have nylon on the inside. Does everyone still use the plastic one of is there a metal nylon one that will fit. I even tried some off my other vehicles and they wont fit.

Thanks
Guy

[DLF]

That's new to me. Heat shrink to keep the CVD pin captured? The set screw isn't holding yours? I have a GT and a B3 and have never lost a CVD pin.

Dana F

[Got Speed]

I still use the plastic nut. I havn't had any problems with it yet.
I was wondering the exact same thing about the CVDs. Because I saw the Dynamite CVDs for the Tmaxx have a little rubber boot.

[Got Speed]

THE DOUBLE POST!!!:eek: :eek:

[Got Speed]

ritchies RC10GT - I wouldn't pay $230 for one. I have heard that there specs are way over-rated. Not that they are a bad engine but they arn't that good. Get a Collari.:D