Associated RC10GT Forum v3.0

[rcracer38]

Can someone tell me what the website is for the Cerenzi Braking System for the RC10GT?

[OldskoolGT]

I use heat-shrink wrap on the CVDs of my non-old schoo GT (the old school GT still has universal joints of course). Its very cheap insurance against loosing the cross pin. Definitely not a waste of time IMHO.

Those little plastic nuts have been doing a good job since the days of the original RC10 :). I see no need to put a heavier metal nut there.

[ronin8451]

Dave's website is : www.rc10gthobby.com
Make sure you order an extra brake strap just in case you need it later on ( it's only 3 bux and cheaper than paying shipping for one separate). He takes Pay Pal and ships very fast. This is the best brake, period! I just wish he made one for my XXX-NT (oops, did I say Losi on the GT forum? Sorry, I still have 2 GT's though!).:D :D

[Got Speed]

ronin8451-How dare you talk about a losi on the GT forum. :eek: Are you talking about the crecenzi(sp) brake?

Why does the XXXN-T handle better than the GT? Is it because it is heavier? Does it have a wider track?

[ronin8451]

Gotspeed: It handles better only in some instances. It is a lot more fragile than the GT though (I am taking off all of the graphite stuff until summer as it is too brittle in the cold) . I can turn faster lap times in a tight, hard packed clay track with my Losi than my GT, because it turns much better. The suspension seems to work better with bumps because of the long arm suspension and it also has more tuning options all over it. I'm not trading in my GT yet though as I can treat it really bad and still get parts everywhere! The Losi diff has got to be rebuilt every couple of runs where my GT gets a rebuild every couple of months (sometimes it doesn't need it then). Just my observations so far as I've only had the Losi for 2 weeks of racing so far and still learning its quirks. :D

[Gokou]

Believe it or not guys, I am still hanging around. Now that the 12 hour days 6 days a week at work has finally ended (YAY!) I once again have time to do things other than work. I pulled my GT out of mothballs Sunday (it's been sitting since August or so) and found my charger was toast, but only AFTER it toasted my receiver pack because it never kicked off of fast charge. Doh!

So now that I'm in the GT driving mood (and hopefully racing this weekend if my new charger and receiver pack shows up at the LHS) I have a few questions, since I haven't really looked at anything R/C related in 5 months...

Has any manufacturer released a rear-exhaust manifold specifically designed for trucks? I remember both Trinity and Novarossi were working on them.

Also, I'm considering picking up a spare motor, since I'm down to only 1 runner. I am torn between the OS .12 TR and the RB X-12 5-port. I love my current RB X-12, but I do miss the "start it and forget it" ease of tuning my old .12 CV Hyper had. Any thoughts on these two motors? I have the money laying around for a Richey RTU/RTO, but that would just be plain stupid of me to stick one of those in a 2wd truck :rolleyes: Maybe I'll get one for a Nitro TC3 if I end up getting one of those.

Any other cool happenings/products I should know about?

[atm92484_3]

Gokou, I have a 12 TR in my Nitro TC3 and it seems like a really nice engine. Still set and forget.

[Portlander]

I'm going for some upgrades guys, I've got an RTR, with a bunch of hop-ups that almost make it a Team truck, with a non-pull start Associated .15, the crecenzi break upgrade, robinson steel spur gear (65/15), good electronics, and a fine radio. I'm looking for parts that will make my truck preform better, not so much into structural sturdiness. I was thinking the 4n1 clutch, and maybe some change in the gearing, and an a full bearings upgrade. I've got a $150 budget this time, and I'm just looking for a second opinion. Thanks in advance

[moorerc]

hey, i'm getting a rc10gt team tomorrow, and i want to know of any and all building tips or things that I should look out for so i don't fubar it. i would really appreciate any help. i making a website for it too. it will either be on tripod.com or geocities.com-i haven't decided yet.

[mississippi]

I use RPM nylon nuts. They fit MUCH MUCH better. I never could get the stock ones to tighten, but these fit very snug. I highly recommend them, they were only a buck fifty or so.

[Railman]

Gokou, The header your looking for is made by Trinity, part #RC8125 ($29.95). I haven't tried it yet, but I hear it fits nicely. From what I've heard about the 12TR, they don't have the power of an MT12. Some where on here theres a guy that swithed form an MT12 to a 12TR, & says he's going to switch back when he gets a chance. It seems like ever since "Nitro" did the dyno test on the MT12, it's pretty much confirmed it to be the big HP engine. Have you seen that dyno test? It makes big HP, but what's amazing is it's power band. If you haven't seen it, maybe I'll scan it for you. I don't know anything about the 5 port engines. They aren't legal for offroad racing, & I don't know much about on road. Have you checked out the new version of the MT12? It has a bigger head, & a few other changes as well.
Let me know if your interested in the dyno report. Do you think RCCA/NITRO would mind if I posted it? Good to hear from you! Later,
Joe

[earnhardtjr]

Thanks for the input. I think I will go with the heat shrink on the CVD's for that little extra added insurance.

We start racing in two weeks, weather permitting of course, and I am looking forward to it.

Again thanks for helping me out.

Guy

[earnhardtjr]

Moorerc, I will say this much for the GT, it has one of the best set of instructions I have ever delt with and I have built HPI, Traxxas and Tamyia. Follow what they have shown and your good to go.

[Gokou]

Hmmmm... that Trinity manifold looks pretty nice. Too bad the price is a bit high, pretty much like the rest of Trinity's product line :rolleyes:

LOL! Back to the MT-12. I'll probably end up getting another RB X-12, since they're nearly identical to the MT-12 and I preferred my X-12 just a hair more than my MT-12. What's the part number fo the new MT-12? Is it the same as the Novarossi RS-12?

Boy, do I have some catching up to do...

[Railman]

Gokou, Did you see the "Nitro" dyno test?
The only info I've seen on the MT12b is here in the "New Products" forum.

On the price of the Trinity header...my thoughts exactly! I guess that's better than spending an hour messing around with the old header & destroying it while bending though. It seems like I read somewhere that Dynamite also has one, but I don't know how it tucks in.
Joe

[atm92484_3]

Railman, Steve ran the 12 TR in the Nitro TC3 he tested and he said it seems like it was very close in power to the MT12. Dunno, maybe the 12 TR is like the 12 CV-R in the matter that it takes a gallon before the engine truely comes to life.

[ritchies rc10gt]

i need some help choosing a new engine


how good is the OS .15 CV hyper?is it an ABN or ABC?
im thinking along the lines of an os,picco or novarossi.could you guys tell me what ones are good for each manufacturer?

[earnhardtjr]

What size of pressure fitting do I need to for the stock GT pipe? I was looking over at Tower and they have a couple and I was not sure which one to get. What about the Trinity 90 degree one, would that one work? I want to make sure I get one that's not to small and falls through the hole.

Guy

[dexters]

Finally took a pic of my RTR GT today. :D

[dexters]

One other thing...the OFNA throttle linkage is one of the best hopups for the GT. Gouko introduced this a long time ago. Thanks I love it.

[OldskoolGT]

Portlander,

The MIP 4-in-1 clutch is one of the best modifications for the GT IMHO. With the MIP clutch, there is no clutch drag at idle, and you can set it to hook up much faster than the stock clutch if you want to.


earnhardtjr,

I think the Trinity pressure fitting is too small for the hole in the GT pipe without a lot of JB Weld. The easiest thing to do is to just stick the fuel tubing directly in to the pipe.

[earnhardtjr]

oh well it was worth a try. Worst case I can use the zip tie method I used on my Rustler lsat year when I added the GT pipe to it.

Thanks Oldschool

[DLF]

Pertaining to the nipple in the GT pipe, run down to your local auto parts store and pick up a brake bleed valve. It will have a pipe thread on one end that will be slightly larger than the hole in the pipe. Just cut the pipe a little bigger and thread it in. I've done this with two pipes with not trouble at all.

Dana F

[earnhardtjr]

DLF, cool I will give that a try.

Thanks

Guy

[Jwelch]

Oh my freaking God! I just had an awesome run in my backyard with my GT except for one tiny thing.... I nailed a dog turd without my body on and there's sh*t EVERYWHERE!!! There's a globule the size of a potato on my CVR!!! Oh man, I've clipped some loaves before but never totally exploded one all over my chassis... I usually ENJOY dismantling my GT and cleaning it, but this time... oh crap! (no pun intended) It was horrible watching my front arm turn the crap into a bunch of flying hunks of...uh, I can't even say it!!!

[ross]

Hi fellow GT'ers,

Im new and hopefully Ill be posting alot more in this thread.

Ive had my GT now for just over a month and Ive entered two races with it. (my club races every two weeks). I cant think of a good enough word for this truck. The best I can do is excellent, I cant fault this truck anywhere. It is the first vehicle Ive ever raced (not first nitro r/c though).

I bought the RC10GT Team Built version, it came with the Dyanmite .12S engine, its not the most power engine but its been great for getting into racing and Ive found that its not how much power your engine produces that wins the race, it the driver who can get around the track quickest without crashing.

I was wondering what hop-ups to get for it next. Has I said its the Team Built verision. Next week Im going to order some titanium turnbuckles to replace the stock steel ones. I was wondering if there is anything else I need to upgrade?? On the AE website it said that my kit was fully ballraced apart from the transmission, would you reccomend me buying some bearings to go in the tranny? Please not that, Im looking for hop-ups that will make my truck more durable, at this stage im not looking for speed, im still practising my driving, so speed doesnt really come into it. Just parts that will make my truck more reliable and more bullet proof.


Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks



Ross Evans

[DTRAX]

Ross

These trucks are really strong! This wont help strength but i love it since i got it, its the MIP 4-N-1 Clutch RC10GT. It has helped my drivability and idle. I found it very worth the money.

[DTRAX]

I have a factory team RC 10 gt and I am having problems keeping it cool. I have a temp gun and when I shoot the hottest part of the engine over the glow plug I am running 300. I am smoking but if I don’t clean it out often it bogs when I get on the gas. Thanks for your help!

[ross]

Originally posted by DTRAX
Ross

These trucks are really strong! This wont help strength but i love it since i got it, its the MIP 4-N-1 Clutch RC10GT. It has helped my drivability and idle. I found it very worth the money.


I take that is a 4 shoe clutch am I right?? And I would need a new flywheel. Sounds interesting, Ill look into it. Thanks



ross

[atm92484_3]

No, the MIP clutch is still a 2 shoe design, but it has springs and weights so you can tune it without cutting the shoes. Inorder to use it, you just need to shorten the pins on the stock flywheel. BTW its the #1 hop-up for the GT.

[ross]

cool, how do i shortent the pins on the flywheel? also does it come with tuning instructions on how to tune the clutch?



thanks


ross

[98vols]

man I am having a time trying to keep the front end of my gt on the ground on the straight away. I am running a factory team kit with ae 15 converted to non pullstart, 17 or 18 tooth clutch bell
stock clutch not cut, progressive piggy backs with 35 wt up front and 30 in the rear the only mods I have made to the truck are
trinity rear arm mounts, gpm alumn knuckles up front, the shock resivores, and I cut the kick up off the rear battery mount and attached an battery box of a nitro rush (the only thing that was on the rush that is worth a crap) and I am doing pretty good on the short parts of the track but when it comes to the striaght about halfway down the front end starts to lift and once it gets started its cartwheel city. I thought it might just be the track but it dosn't matter where i run the truck once I get to a certin speed the front end lifts up. Is there anything I could do to the set up or just start adding weight to the front??

[DLF]

Adding weight to the front is about it...and it makes a big difference too. At least it did to me. Made the truck handle much better.

Dana F

[OldskoolGT]

Any one here ever lock up the differential on your GT for more traction?

I made a "JB Locker" for my old school GT after the diff gear melted and the center sectionof the gear broke free, making it work sort of like a second slipper clutch (set really loose). After taking the ball bearings out of the outdrive and diff gear I put a bunch of JB Weld between the diff drive rings and the outdrives, then stuck the outdrives on and tightened the diff bolt. After letting it dry overnight, it appeared to be quite solid.

I tested the locker this afternoon and it held up great while the truck ran. The steering radius is increased since the rear wheels can no longer spin independently of each other. With the rear locked, I could climb over obstacles which would the truck used to get stuck on. Unfortunately, too much traction can be really hard on drivetrain parts, and I broke an axle when the truck rolled over, and a spinning wheel hit the ground. The truck was going quite slow at the time, and I had set the slipper loose, but that skinny axle just couldn't handle all that torque.

[Railman]

98vols, You may have added a little weight to the rear when you added the batt box. Try running the rear hub carriers all the way to the rear (spacers to the front). What batt pack are you running? If it's made from 5 AA batts that could also be a problem. AAE packs are almost 1 oz lighter. I run 3/4 oz wt in the front of mine. You may also be getting some lift on the front because the front dampening is heavier than the back. What may happen is that the front will progressively lift, (jack up a little at a time), as the suspension is repeatedly cycled. Maybe lighten the front oil & springs, or lay the shocks down on the front, while keeping the rear shocks in the std outer tower position. Your just transfering too much weight to the rear. Any of these should help some...pick & choose what makes the most sense for how your truck is working. Good luck.
Joe

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by ross
cool, how do i shortent the pins on the flywheel? also does it come with tuning instructions on how to tune the clutch?

They say to hammer the pins into the flywheel, but most of us have found there isn't enough room and it rubs against the front of the crankcase. When I cut mine, I used a Dremel but any rotary tool or a hacksaw even would work. What I did is I hammered the pins like the instructions say, but then I cut off whatever stuck out of the back.

[ritchies rc10gt]

i bought an OS 15 cvx hyper with the slide carb.how do i install it?id like to start breaking it in tonight.thanx for the help

how good is this engine?i hope its not overkill in a gt.also can i run the standard flywheel with the pull start instaed of the huge flywheel?

[DTRAX]

I have a factory team RC 10 gt and I am having problems keeping it cool. I have a temp gun and when I shoot the hottest part of the engine over the glow plug I am running 300. I am smoking but if I don’t clean it out often it bogs when I get on the gas. Thanks for your help!

[Got Speed]

Have you tried richening it? What engine are you running.

[DTRAX]

I have the O.S. .12 CV-X pull start. I have tried it richer but it seems to bog or choke when i give it a lot of gas. It acts as if it is too rich. It smokes a lot and almost dies.

[atm92484_3]

DTRAX, the most important thing is that the engine is getting the proper lube. Next comes temp. Just make sure there are no airleaks and if possible try getting a better head. Also what fuel and plug are you running?

I'm running the MIP head on my 12 CV in my Nitro DS, and it looks like crap, but it cools the engine nicely. For $30 its worth it IMO.

[DTRAX]

I am running the o.s. #a3 glow plug and 15% tower hobbies fuel.

[pylonkilla]

I havent been to this thread in a while. Got started in RC'ing about 3 months ago and love it. Bought a RC10GT and a RC10T truck(both about 5 years old).

The problem Im having is that the brakes dont work too well. I really have to crank the tension up on it to get it to stop the car from moving at idle or even to slow it down. However, after the car warms up and I run it for 2 min, it will not hold it still.

I installed a new brake disk fiber on the car about 5 tankfulls ago. The guy who owned it before me said the brake disk cracked after over heating, and didnt replace it.

Is this a common problem on the GT's? or should I look at replacing the linkage/'caliper'?
Is there any upgrades to the braking system?
Thanks!

[ritchies rc10gt]

check this brake system out.im thinkin about ordering it
http://www.rc10gthobby.com/

[pylonkilla]

BAM! you got it. Im getting one for sure!! I hope it works with my chassis. I have the tub chassis, not sure if its Sport/Team/NitroDS GT, but Ill compare my chassis to the picture they have.

[atm92484_3]

DTRAX, get some car fuel. That Tower Hobbies stuff is for airplanes. I'd suggest something like Blue Thunder, O'Donnel, or Trinity. I think this will help drop a few degrees, along with a better heatsink.

[Got Speed]

Yeah don't run the tower fuel. Get 20%.

[Got Speed]

Does the crezensi(sp) brake system slow your accleration?

[pylonkilla]

I was looking at it for slowing down as well. Although the aluminum piece does add mass to what needs to be turned, the stock brake on the RC10GT seems to add its own drag even at WOT because you have to crank down on it so hard to work at all.

Seems like that new brake is going to be better than the stock one, and work at the same time :D

[atm92484_3]

I'm still running the stock brake. I think the biggest thing is making sure its set properly though, but I can imagine there is still room for improvement. Who knows, maybe the next time AE updated the GT, they'll toss a metal disc brake on like the Nitro TC3 has. I can vouch that this brake will lock all 4 wheels up on pavement with just a standard S3003 servo.

[TRXboy]

Hey guys, about the crenzi brake slowing down the truck, I doubt it, the alumium drum is hollowed out and VERY lite. Its also much more efficant then the stock brake, you dont need to put in tons of drag brake just to get the wheels to lock. Click here (http://members.tripod.com/pitmonkey911/id144.htm) to see how i set mine up.

[OldskoolGT]

pylonkilla,

How do you have your brake linkage set up? You will get much better braking if you do *not* put the spring (or any other compressable material) between the nut and the brake cam as the instructions say. You can also bend the cam arm like in the picture below for more braking. The Duratrax fiberglass disc will also provide more braking power, and it won't shatter like the stock disc. I have the Duratrax disc in my non-old school GT, and I can easily lock up the wheels at full speed with a *micro-servo* operating the throttle/brake.

The best way to make the car not roll forward at idle is to install the MIP 4-in-1 clutch.

[pylonkilla]

Yes, I saw everyone using gas line as the spring to let the arm pivot, and I have done that.
I may have to invest in the MIP clutch, as I have no clue how old or worn my current one is.

Damn, just ran the car and it woudlnt start right, got it going turned around, let off the gas and it was still cruising...it crashed and I noticed the carb was turned...I can now pull the carb out of the engine :(
Guess Ill have to take it apart again and tighten that sucker down...always something breaks! Time for a New GT...

[ritchies rc10gt]

today i bought the following things:

Futaba magnum junior 2PEKA FM radio
titanium turnbuckles
RPM body posts
blue fuel line
body clips
blue zip ties
new bearings for my rear hubs
1 quart of fuel

is there anything else i should get?i want to be able to atleast finish a race this year

i finally bit the bullet and decided if im gonna race this season i need the good stuff.i like the futaba radio.
i broke in my 15 CVX hyper today and it rips.im still running a little too rich though.

should i turn my head so that the 2 slits face torwards the front so that air can flow around and threw the head?instead of just around it?
when i find my camara ill post some pics of it with the new parts

[Gokou]

I still don't understand the deal with the Crescenzi drum brake. The stock one works great-- very progressive and smooth with zero fade. I tried a Crescenzi to see what the big deal was and I felt it was much too abrupt, and it was too hard to smoothly modulate braking force. It went from light braking to lock up entirely too quickly, even after I played with the linkage to lengthen the servo travel required and played with my radio to soften the brake response.

One thing everybody needs to keep in mind is that a disc brake requires more pressure than a drum brake. Nick said about the stock disc that "you dont need to put in tons of drag brake just to get the wheels to lock". I have *zero* drag brake on my stock disc at idle (the truck rolls completely freely) and I have *zero* problems locking the rear wheels, even at top speed on asphalt with foam tires. Then again my throttle/brake servo has 125 oz-in of torque. As I said a disc brake will need more force applied than a drum brake to produce the same braking effect. This stands true for real cars as well as R/Cs. Thus, a drum brake (the Crescenzi) can produce the same braking force as the factory disc brake with a much weaker servo. Since most people don't buy gorilla servos for their throttle/brake servo I can see where the Crescenzi would be advantageous-- you can spend $30 for a new brake which will produce the same effect as the stock brake and a $80+ servo. IMO though the stock brake still has the best feel to it-- smooth and progressive, much more so than the Crescenzi.

As for the brake linkage: The first day I drove my GT I switched the linkage setup. The factory method of having the spring on the compressed side of the brake arm just sucks for consistency. A piece of fuel tubing has just enough give to let the brake arm pivot and will allow for much more positive braking. The shorter the piece of fuel tubing, the "stiffer" the brake feel will be and the smoother and more precise you will have to be with your finger.

I have my linkage set up with short pieces of fuel tubing on both sides. This allows for very precise brake settings, since there is no slop in the brake arm. Just a slight movement on the radio into the brakes and the brakes start to work.

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/linkage.jpg

[dexters]

Hey guys, I was running my RTR today for about 3 minutes and it ran great until all of sudden it started cutting out at whatever throttle position I had it at. I think its the receiver but was wanting to ask you guys. The scenario is when I start my truck and hit the gas it makes my steering servo also twitch. The thing that is weird is it only does this when the truck is running. It will not do it when just my receiver and radio are only on??? Confused me very much. I took out all the connections reseated them even the crystal in the receiver. Nothing seemed to fix it. I didn't run it through water or anything. Didn't even spill fuel in it. What do you think I should do? Anybody else have this issue? Thanks for the help. :rolleyes:

[DR.GT]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock AE brake system. If you replace the stock disc with the upgrade disc also change the whole system, calipers etc. Also set up your brakes like gokou showed. His is set properly and will be very smooth with the fuel tubing added on both sides. Mine is set the same and I can stop on a dime even if I chose to ( but I don't) use a stock throttle /brake servo.

[hotmodrc]

Gokou,

Personally I have tried the stock, as im sure all gt owners have. And personally, I don't think it botes, but it does leave much to be desired. Ever since switching to the Crescenzi brake it stops smoother, I can slow down quick or slow, it has just been a much smoother and consistant brake in my opinion. But you know what they say about opinions......

Dex,

the rtr uses a a.m. radio system so perhaps this is aprt ofthe glitching. You may want to try changing crystals to another frq. and see if this helps.

hotmodrc

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Gokou
Then again my throttle/brake servo has 125 oz-in of torque.

This is another thing to take into consideration. Its like with the steering servo; you can't expect the truck to steer well with a standard servo just like you can't expect its braking to be the best with a standard servo. IMO the stock brakes are more than sufficient. Its just a matter of setting them up properly.

[Got Speed]

I have had no trouble with my brake at all. I have had very smooth braking and have had no drag at all at idle or WOT too. That's why I wondered why some people got the crescenzi(sp) brake. For best braking you should set up your brakes so that they don't lock the wheels. Set them so that they almost make the tires skid. That way you will get the best braking.

[Railman]

Excellent post Gokou! The only time I've seen a problem with the GT's brakes is when you get fuel on the disk. Then sometimes it takes a while to burn off the fuel. In dirt racing situations, too much braking is more of a problem than not enough anyway.

Another thing to keep an eye on is the point of the caliper where the brake cam hits. Eventually it will wear a divot in the plate there, & cause the braking to be irratic. A small divot is normal wear, but when it gets too deep it causes problems. You can either flat sand the plate, & reverse it so the divot is on the disk side, or simply replace the calipers. Another thing that helps is to use set screw collars top & bottom on the brake cam rod. If you adjust the collars properly, the brake cam can not jump up & down. When the rod can jump up & down, the rods cam (pivot) being in & out of the wear divot, causes the brakes to be impossible to stay in proper adjustment. Makes a huge differance!
Joe

[TRXboy]

Got speed, Saying "good braking should be when your wheels dont lock" thats all based on what your doing, your opion, im gessing, is based around track running. BUT, my track you need the rear to lock in order to swing the tail around. BUT ALSO, i need to rear to lock fast because i jump(some of you know this) rather large distance's, i need to be able to ajust the truck as fast as possible in the air.

Speaking of crenzi, i Just won one.

Gokou - About your's not having ot be on drag. Dude yuor servo has more then tripple the power mine does....DUH! OHHH yeah, BTW...Drop me a line dude, we need to talk--->pitmonk@optonline.net

[OldskoolGT]

So who here has clocked their GT?

I stuck my GPS (has a maximum speed function) in my old school GT this afternoon while doing some speed runs. The fastest of the day was 38 mph, which is pretty much what I expected to be the max with the 60 tooth spur and 18 tooth pinion. Not too shabby for an old OS CZ-Z motor.


About that braking thing Pylonkilla, you might also want to look at how the servo horn is attatched to the servo. In order for the servo to apply the maximum force to the brake, the servo horn cannot be mounted on the servo with the linkage advanced too far forward (see picture below).

And Gokou, your GT is clean enough to eat off of :D . I don't think either of my trucks has ever been that clean.

[CGV]

Im having some tranny problems. When it is completely assembled i get some resistence at the same point (spinning it by hand). But when i take one of the covers of it is as smooth as possible. I checked both covers and there isnt anything sticking out. What could be causing this? im completely stumped :(

EDIT: i just went a played with it for a little while and its better but there is still some resistence.

also, does the fuel filter go inbetween the gas tank and the carb or the tank and the pipe?

[ross]

OldskoolGT,

you should buy a spur gear for your GT, they go loads faster with them. :D :D


CGV,

Im new to the type of transmission on the GT and I dont know much about it but the fuel filter go's in between the tank and the carb.



ross

[Railman]

CGV, Assuming the bearings, & gears are good, & that the shafts are not overshimmed, it's most likely the diff that's causing the runnout. Try assembling the trany, & counter rotating the outdrives. That will probably center up the diff halves & eliminate the runnout that's causing the stiff spot. Does the stiff spot happen at each revoution of the axle, or the top shaft? That will tell you where the problem is.
Joe

[Railman]

Oldschool, Do you tighten the set collar on the spring side of the throttle rod @ the servo horn. If so, why even put a spring on it?
Joe

[ross]

what shall i do out of these:??

Fastrax Rose Joint-T-U-R-N-B-U-C-K-L-E-RPM Ball Cup

or...

RPM Ball cup-T-U-R-N-B-U-C-K-L-E-RPM Ball Cup?


Do you think the Fastrax Rose joints are any good because I have heard good and bad things about them. A friend who I race with say they are brillaint and that they hardly ever come off, and they are really durable, but another friend who is the owner of my LHS says that they limit your steering. Im not sure wether to use them or not. please could i have your opinion, thanks.



ross

[earnhardtjr]

I have ordered the T-Maxx receiver box and plan to do the mod you did on for my GT, but I have a question. Does the box touch the fuel tank or do you have a little seperation between them. It should be here in a couple of days and I wanted to mke sure.

Thanks
Guy

[Got Speed]

TRX Boy-Ya, you should be able to lock the wheels but to slow your car down best it shouldn't lock up.

I am racing oval and just put a 22 CB and 60 Spur gear on my GT with an AE 15 and it hauls. I have to let off the gas half halfway down the straight to make the turn. My servo is not at all slow or under powered and I have plenty of weight in the front. Should I use the optional ackerman position?

Right now there is a speed radar in my neighborhood, so I am going to see how fast my GT can go.

[Portlander]

okay, the mannual says that an 18 tooth clutch bell is the biggest you'll be able to fit on the GT. Tower Hobbies goes along with this when they say that some modification to the vehicle might be required to install their 20, 22, and 24 tooth robinson racing gears. I was just wondering if anyone has tried these gears, and what exactly they had to modify on their trucks, thanks.

[atm92484_3]

Earnhardt, the box is pretty close, but it doesn't touch.

Portlander, I put a 22t clutchbell and a 56t spur gear in my GT. The 12 CV didn't have enough torque to get the truck going that fast (or atleast the acceleration sucked), but the only mod I had to do was to use pullstart mounts since the gears wouldn't be able to touch otherwise.

[CGV]

Railman- you were right in saying that it was the diff. I was tooling around and i took the diff out and tried it and it was smooth. I dont understand what you mean about rotating it counterclockwise though. do i take it out and rotate it or do i rotate while its in the case, sry for the inane questions im just confused :p

also, my MIP BB steering came today and its looking really nice, but i have to wait for the servo saver to come :( and with that came my tranny brace, sweet indeed, seeing as the plastic one is lying in my trash can in two peices :rolleyes:

PEACE!

[Got Speed]

Portlander-I am using a 22t clutch bell and a 60t spur. All I had to do was get the smaller spur.

[repete]

This is my first post in this forum.

I have run a 24cb with a 56spur with a picco .12 re and the results are crazy. Never got to see how fast it goes cause it would pull the tires off the rims and send by truck into cartwheels. It was costing me $20-$40 to run my truck one time with those gears. If you do you may want to try and screw your tires to your rims like of drag racers

[rcracer38]

Does anyone know how to do this or if this can be done? I have some powder-blue turnbuckles that I have with my factory team GT. I want to change the color on them, since I haven't seen where I could by them, to powder-red. I know the Matt Francis edition for the XXXT has them that color. Is there a way to re-dye them?

[DTRAX]

Has anyone ever installed a check valve inbetween the muffler and the fuel tank? I am having problems with my rc10gt pooring fuel back into the muffler. I have three loops in the hose but it still does it. That is why i am thinking about getting a check valve.

[atm92484_3]

Rcracer, those turnbuckles are annodized, not dyed. Annodizing involves having an acid bath with a dye, submerging the parts, then running a current through the bath and the parts and the dye will be absorbed into the metal.

DTRAX, its possible you might have too much fuel tubing and there isn't enough pressure to hold the fuel back.

[Railman]

CGV, About the diff...What can happen when 1st assembled is the two diff halves will not rotate on the same axis (in sync), untill
it is assembled into the case. Then you just need to make the diff halves rotate in opposite directions (hold one half, & spin the other). That will make them center up to each other. If it don't, you may have forgotten to put the pilot bearing in the center of the diff gear. Good luck.
Joe

[NewToNitro]

Ok i want to order a GT....(all prices are if tower matches ultimatehobbies and then i use a coupon)But what one??? Team Built-160 Team Kit-215 Factory Team Kit-240....I dont have a lot of money..Im takeing the radio from another RC i have and the engine from another RC. Will a Megatech M-16 fit a GT???

[Railman]

Dtrax, I always wanted to try one...as a matter of fact I tried to order one a few years ago, but they weren't in stock, so I just forgot about it. I have noticed that some other aftermarket companies are pushing them now. I also think that there was one on a car that Steve Pond posted a picture of on this site "On road Florida Nats" or something similar. They said it was a filter, but I bet it was a one way valve. Anyway it seems like it couldn't hurt anything unless it restricted the pressure in some way. But that seems unlikely, as long as it's a decent size unit. It may actually make the car run more consistently, by keeping a more constant pressure to the carb. Or it may not. Hopefully someone else has tried one.
Joe

[Railman]

New to nitro, If you think you might do any upgrading later, I would highly recomend getting the factory team up front. It's a good value, & will save you quite a bit over upgrading later. However it depends on if you can afford it to get started. Personally I would at least go for the team kit. It has most of the important upgrades. Good luck!
Joe

[OldskoolGT]

Railman,

The collar near the servo horn in that picture is not tightened down. The collar is only acting as a spacer because I needed to move the other collar 1/8" up since it was hitting the servo horn at full throttle

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by Railman
New to nitro, If you think you might do any upgrading later, I would highly recomend getting the factory team up front. It's a good value, & will save you quite a bit over upgrading later. However it depends on if you can afford it to get started. Personally I would at least go for the team kit. It has most of the important upgrades. Good luck!
Joe

Ok i guess ill get the Factory Team.Is it hard to build? I have never built i kit, my others were rtr. Do you know if the Megatech .16 will fit?

[Railman]

I'm 99% shure it'll fit, but I've not run one myself. Try their site. I bet they have the info you need. If you have decent mechanical skills, can read & follow directions, you'll have fun putting your kit together. If you have any problems we can walk you through them. In the end, you'll know your truck much better, & have more fun running it, because maintanance is most of the battle with nitro. Good luck.

Oldschool, that makes perfect sense, & renews my confidence in you! Sorry, I shouldn't have doubted you, but sometimes newbies look at stuff on here without the added explanation.;) The setscrew being in is what threw me.
Joe

[FTR]

yeah it is not hard to build mine took 4 liter of pepsi, 2 pounds of skittles, 1 large pizza, 50 sugar packets. i pulled an all nighter an built mine in 20 hours. my mom din't care sinsce it was my birthday and had no problame givin me all that grub. its not hard just time consuming and have patientes

[DR.GT]

DTRAX:

I believe that Dubro makes a oneway check valve. I was going to get one a few years ago but it never happened. Also your pressure line should be 8-10". That is the optium length. I have never had problems with the fuel running back in with this length.

[Got Speed]

rcracer-You can take the anodizing off with EZoff and then buy a powder coating kit at a hardware store.

[rcracer38]

THanks. I will call the hardware store to see if they have the red stuff. Do you know what it is called?

[CGV]

i think its called like anodizing powder or something, but ive never heard of a hardware store having it...

[98vols]

anodizing is not done with a powder it is done by placing the part in an acitic solution and applying voltage to the part and a ground wire in the solution which creates a chemical reaction with the solution and the metal thus changing the color different colors are achieved by the amout of voltage and type of solution used. As far as powder coating goes you would need a powder coating kit and an Oven devoted to powder coating (not sutable for cooking after you powder coating) you would need to sand blast the parts to get all grease, oil ect off the part then you spray the parts with a powder and bake it on in the oven you can buy a small powder coating kit from most high performance dealers like Jeggs or Summitt and then you would need an oven to bake it in.

[98vols]

well I fixed my front end lift by adding several ounces of weight to the front end and man does it handle better but I am thinking of upgrading my steering set up. I bought my dad the GPM Ballbearing bellcrank set up for christmas but I am kinda looking away from it because it is kinda overpriced at $40.00 and he still hasn't been able to get it set up right since the factory servo saver is elimanated and you have to use a servo horn type of servo saver he cant seem to get the right servo mounting positon to attach the steering rod from the servo to the bellcrank system without it being crooked and hitting something so I was looking at the MIP kit but from the pitcher I can't tell if it is plastic or alluminum and if I will have the same problem lining the servo up. has anyone used either system (mip or gpm) and if so how does it line up and is it worth upgrading.

[Got Speed]

A hardware store near where I live sell a powder coating kit for $60. Can't you use a toaster oven?

[98vols]

I guess a toster oven would work if it got hot enough. Didn't think about that but with the size of the parts they would definatley fit. When I was in the market for buying a coating system it was for larger automotive parts and a conventinal oven
was the only thing big enough.

[CGV]

i have not yet instaled it but i got the MIP bb steering kit. all the parts are plastic but they are very stiff. but the mip kit also requires that you get a servo saver horn.

[format13]

I have a rtr rc10gt and i took out the plastic thingy so it would go faster. I was running it and it all of a sudden stopped, no sputter, no bo, just plain stopped. I trid starting ti again but i couldnt even pull the starter. My dad says its "seized" and ive heard that term before. i've taken the clutch off a couple of time using a piston locking tool that goes where the gloe plug fits,so i think i may have weakened the rod and broken it, plz help!

[atm92484_3]

Format, by removing the restrictor in the car (that plastic piece), you allowed more air to enter the engine. It sounds like you didn't readjust the mixture so it ended up running lean and this caused the engine to seize up. This is my guess, but also try taking the recoil starter off (carefully ofcourse so it doesn't unwind), and check to see if the connecting rod is okay.

[Austin GT]

Does anyone know where to find GT setup for med-to hardpacked track(semi-sandy).I would greatly appreciate a good word.:D

[ross]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Format, by removing the restrictor in the car (that plastic piece), you allowed more air to enter the engine. It sounds like you didn't readjust the mixture so it ended up running lean and this caused the engine to seize up. This is my guess, but also try taking the recoil starter off (carefully ofcourse so it doesn't unwind), and check to see if the connecting rod is okay.

I dont see a restrictor in my GT carb? Should there be one there or is it in a different place.


thanks


ross

[atm92484_3]

It comes stock on the AE 15 on the GT RTRs. When you take the airfilter off, it usually comes off with the filter, but its this little white piece with a hole thats off centered.

[ross]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
It comes stock on the AE 15 on the GT RTRs. When you take the airfilter off, it usually comes off with the filter, but its this little white piece with a hole thats off centered.

OK, no wonder I dont have one. I have the Dynamite .12S in my GT.


Has anyone raced a .15 in thier GT?? At my club your are allowed .15 engines, I was looking at the .15CVR, but I thought because of the torque and HP of this engine the truck might always wheelie.



thanks


ross

[crazy1]

Is there such an part #?

[atm92484_3]

Crazy, I don't think there is (atleast I never could find one). I'm not sure what your situation is, but if the tank seems like its leaking, take a 1/16" allen wrench and try to tighten the button head screw on the underside of the lid, so it compresses the o-ring and possibly will seak the leak (if this is what you have). If not, maybe try a hardware store or something.

good luck

[FTR]

hey guys

my truck got hit buy a suburban. but it stll works but i goona use all my allowance to buy all this and what ever i don't have buy my birthday july 3rd my parents will get. i will buy the stupp piece buy piece until then. plese help me with my list i also have metal gears jrxr2 cvr stinger
LXAFX4 Trinity Aluminum Heavy Duty Front Tube Mount RC10GT

1 23.99
LXAV85 MIP Rear Shaft 1.32/Car/Truck

2 3.79
LXAV84 MIP Front Shaft 1.02/Truck (1)

2 3.79
LXJV66 Pro Shock Bushings Associated

1 7.59
LXY837 Lunsford Racing RC10T2/GT Titanium Hinge Pin Kit

1 18.99
LXLZ67 HGI Spring Clamps Alloy Associated/HPI

2 9.49
LXUX82 Associated RC10GT Upgrade Kit Non Pull Start

1 49.99
LX3329 Associated RC10GT Aluminum Screw Set

1 15.69
LXATG6 Associated Fuel Tank Reverse Fill

1 12.99
LXEU88 RPM Associated Truck Front Arms

1 9.49
LXEU83 RPM Associated Truck Rear Arms

1 9.49
LXLC63 YS Check Valve 6045FS

1 7.39
LX3410 Associated Foam Pre-Filter Element

1 2.39
LX3411 Associated Air Filter Boot

1 2.89
LXL601 HGI Aluminum Rear Bulkhead 10GT/DS

1 32.99
LXL600 HGI Aluminum Tranny Brace 10GT/Nitro DS

1 11.99
LXL606 HGI 3 Degree Rear A-Arm Mount 10GT

1 25.99
LXWL86 Associated Blue Aluminum Shock Cap (4)

1 10.99
LXBVF8 Associated Truck Front Spring Kit

1 12.99
LXBVG0 Associated Truck/Buggy Rear Spring Kit

1 12.99
LX2593 Associated Rebuild Kit New Shocks (4)

1 3.89
LXKB48 Trinity 25 Weight Silicone Shock Oil

1 3.39
LX3354 Associated Servo Mounts Gas Truck

1 2.39
LXBDS9 DuraTrax O'Donnell #88 Glow Plug .12-.16

3 4.99
LXWL85 Associated Factory Team Hex Driver

1 41.99

[Got Speed]

Austin GT-Maybe this will help- http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/index.htm

[OldskoolGT]

Hi all,

I broke the rear bulkhead on my old school GT the other day into 2 distinct pieces while bashing around at the local elementary school. I thought I would order the RPM one, since I know that an Associated bulkhead will break in the same exact way again. But I didn’t want to have to wait for it, or spend $9, so I decided to try to repair the broken bulkhead. First I superglued it back together, then drilled a hole through so I could re-enforce it with a metal rod (part of the recently broken axle). Then I used a bunch of JB Weld to hold the metal rod in place. After it dried, I reinstalled the part, and took out the truck out for some more bashing. Well, it didn’t hold up at all, the 2 parts of the bulkhead separated, and the metal rod bent. So I pulled the metal rod out, used a 1/8” drill bit to enlarge the hole, and put in a 1 ½” machinc screw with a 6-32 thread. I used a Dremel to cut a recess in the bottom of the bulkhead for the nut. The screw and nut needed just a bit of grinding to clear everything. I reinstalled the “improved” bulkhead and took the truck back to out for some good bashing today, and it appears to hold up. I jumped the truck numerous times, including one in which the truck jumped about 4’ vertically, and landed on one rear tire. I am real pleased with this repair, and will probably do something similar (but with less JB Weld) with the unbroken bulkhead in my other GT to strengthen it.

[FTR]

i went to that website and said
!@#$$%

%$#@!

#$%#@!

HOLLY (BEEP!)

WHAT THE ****

then my mom came up behind me and i had to quit my bitchin* session!

.then i figued my servos just aint cutting it so i went with some digitals. then i figuered might as well get a reciever pack then the track owner said they were in the proces of making a reall offroad track with obsticals like a rock cralwing section logs mud ect. so i put dirt hawg on the list. these tires have never let me down onmyrustler so now the new total is 608 this is all the new stuff. this is one bill that will be kicking my ass. i bought a ft gt xr2 and all the gas equitment for 749 (DAMN)


all the servos are hitec digitals
1 41.99
LXUZ80 Hitec/RCD HS-5645MG Torque Metal Gear Servo Hitec/JR/Z

1 53.99
LXUZ76 Hitec/RCD HS-5625MG Speed Metal Gear Servo Hitec/JR/Z

1 53.99
LXL335 Hobbico JR Tx/Rx Charge Leads
Qty Discount Available
1 8.99
LXL311 Hobbico QuickPeak Tx/Rx DC Field Charger
Accessories Needed
1 29.99
SC1515 RPM Rear Clawz 6-Spoke Chrome T3

1 9.49
SC1516 RPM Front Clawz 6-Spoke Chrome T3

1 9.49
SC2610 Pro-Line Dirt Hawg 2.2 Front/Rear Truck

2 16.99
SC1081 Trinity Receiver Pack Standard Gas Hump

1 27.99
LXVJ44 Hobbico Pro HD Switch Harness JR/Hitec/Air Z

1 10.99

[MPTech]

Can anyone help me? I've had 'lectric RCs for 17 years and love 'em. Just after Christmas, I got the Nitro itch. I've read this entire thread, front to back and I'm about ready to buy, but still a little hesitant about a Gas car. I ran down to the LHS and bought the 2 current issues of Nitro Car Action (been subscribin' to RCCA since the very first issue). Anyway, there's a reference in one to an article in the previous issue, about a new method of break-in that is a kinda revolutionary, but I don't have the issue/article.

Could someone scan & email me or post the article here. I'd also be interested in anyone's opinion that has tried it. I know there were some posts earlier in this thread, but I couldn't form an opinion from them.

Love this thread, read it every night! Keep up the great information!

'nother question, any thoughts about Losi's new RTR? I'm and AE man, but it's tempting!

Thanks! :D

[FTR]

well don't do it a kid at school was building an NXT. when me and my homei saw it we noticed how britle the plastic was while he was building his nxt he broke a lot of the front suspention parts. and there aren't any hop up accept maby one or 2

[StevePond]

Well - I finally figured out how to combine threads... Holy COW this freakin thread is huge! :D One of the best I've seen. Lots of great information here.

[driller]

look "***" I did; trust me I'm not proud of myself snapped the screws that attach the graphite shock tower to front bulkhead and they were not aluminum also bent both nose tube braces but the shock tower held up. That's the new chassis next to my wreck.

I hit solid @ full throttle the corner of a concrete parking divider.
:eek:

[driller]

:eek:

[FTR]

lol at driller. hey i did the same 2 weeks ago when my truck got hit by a suburban

[TRXboy]

OHhhh man steve....TO SWEET!!!

[OldskoolGT]

MPTech,

You can read a thread about the "new" break in technique at http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67588&highlight=gierke

Or if that link doesn't work, do a search for "David Gierke" and you should be able to find the thread.

The reasoning behind the "new" break in process is very sound IMHO, so I tried it for breaking in the new piston/sleeve in my CZ-Z. I only have about 1 gallon through it, so I can't comment on the long term effects of the break in yet, but the engine is working fine right now.

That Losi RTR truck looks pretty decent. It comes with a pretty nice radio for a RTR kit. However, the truck that comes with it is a Losi :D . Seriously though, the XXXNT is a good truck that seems to handle bumpy tracks better than the GT because of its wider track. The GT has the edge in durability and doesn't suffer from the little problems that Losi trucks have.

[atm92484_3]

MPTech, I'm using this break-in method right now to break in the 12 TR in my Nitro TC3 and it seems like a much better way to do it. Plus its not as boring as watching a car idle for 3 tanks. :) The only thing to remember about that break-in is its aimed mainly at ABC engines as opposed to ringed and ABN engines.

Driller, one word: ouch! Atleast you have a replacement though, so it looks like its all good.

[Got Speed]

Ron Paris belived you should break engines in like that, me too.

Driller-:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

I am going to enter my first race this wendsday on dirt oval.:D

MPtech-The Losi is nice but it's a losi.:rolleyes: Get the team built GT. That way you can get the radio and engine you want. You can also pick what brand of hop ups you want instead of going with just the AE ones.

[FTR]

got speed good luck dude

[Got Speed]

thanks

[Railman]

Steve, Thanks for the hookup! That'll make it way easier to refer to old sections of the thread, & to do searches. Cool!
Joe

[Austin GT]

Thanks for the tip!! I'm going to give these Losi guys a good fight this Sundays' race. The XXXNTs have been a strong showing.BUT thats all going to change really soon!! Ha!:D :p

[Draxx]

Hey guys, a quick ?. I am ordering my FT next week (abandoning Losi and joining the "A" team;)) and plan to order the MIP clutch as well. I was quite pleased with it on my GTX. I was wondering if anyone has used the MIP steering setup for the RC10GT? I know that loose steering was a complaint I had with the Losi and wondered if it was a concern with the AE.If anyone has used it, is it worth the trouble and expense? I have gotten alot of great info from you guys by reading the posts and am trying to build this truck with everything needed right out of the gate. Thanks...

[Got Speed]

The GT's steering does have a little slop in it but it's not too bad. Just give it a little(very) toe.little

[Jwelch]

The MIP steering setup is pretty smooth with the ball bearings, but keep in mind that it was designed for the tub GT, and also, it doesn't have a built in servo saver. Other than that, it's a nice setup. Oh, and you'll love that MIP clutch.

[MPTech]

Hey guys, went to the thread and read the whole thing! Great comments, but I'm still looking for the article. I searched the RCNitro site and found:

The Truth about Engine Break-In by DAVE GIERKE in the Jan 2002 issue

But, it doesn't have a link to the article or a copy. Can some someone post it, or email me the article. Also, will this work on the .15 that comes with the GT RTR?

Thanks again.

Also, thanks for combining the old thread (but now I have a couple more hours of reading to do!)

[AvidNitroBurner]

i have a RC10Gt with O.S. .15 cv max..........i went to my lhs today and bought a set of dirtpaws...these tires are the best backyard bashing tires i have ever run.............4 tanks of fuel and no wear at all .........and thats in loose sand and grass .......these tires hook happy nitrobuning........:D

[Got Speed]

MP Tech- It applys to any engine.

What a day!:mad: It took me forever to get my engine tuned right today, kept popping ball cups, and stripped a spur gear from loose engine mounts. After I fixed these things I noticed my GT wasn't going nowheres near as fast as before. I drove alot worse last week and didn't have hardly any trouble.

How many gallons are you getting on your AE .15s?

[Got Speed]

MP Tech- It applys to any engine. I will try and post it tommorow.

What a day!:mad: It took me forever to get my engine tuned right today, kept popping ball cups, and stripped a spur gear from loose engine mounts. After I fixed these things I noticed my GT wasn't going nowheres near as fast as before. I drove alot worse last week and didn't have hardly any trouble.

How many gallons are you getting on your AE .15s?

[TRXboy]

Got speed - You said you Striped a spur gear, are you sure you tightened down the slipper cluch enough? That could be why you truck is not going anywere, it could be to lose, Tighten it down till it stops then back out 1/8 inch.

[OldskoolGT]

Got Speed,

You might also want to check the differential. A loose differential will also make your truck really slow and eventually melt the diff gear.

[atm92484_3]

Got speed, also make sure your wheel nuts are tight, CVDs (if you have them) are in one piece, and your clutch is okay. Its probably either the slipper or the diff though.

[OldskoolGT]

FTR,

That's quite a list you have there. Here is the obligatory MIP clutch reccomendation. I' d get a MIP clutch if you don't already have one.

Do you race or just bash? If you race, I would not get the RPM suspension arms because they flex alot, which negatively affects handling. For bashing, they are practically indestructible.

The HG aluminum stuff does nothing but add weight to your truck and lighten your wallet. The HG rear A-arm mount has a questionable design IMHO, and doesn't have the anti-squat built into it. Not worth 10X the cost of the stock plastic ones (or even 1X IMO). If you want aluminum a-arm mounts, get the Trinity ones. Personally, I think plastic is a better material for that part.

If you want a good tranny/bulkhead brace, the Trinity one is the best, although kinda pricey.

[earnhardtjr]

I went back and read the article in the Jan 2002 issue of Nitro about the ABC break-in procedure and I have one question form it before I try it out.

In the article it says to "open the idle needle several turns so the engine shuts off when abruptly throttled back." My questions are: 1) Is the idle needle the throttle stop screw or the Needle value, 2) Does this mean that when I go from 1/2 throttle to brake the approx 1mm opening in the carb barrell should be adjusted so it is less than 1mm and therefore killing the engine at full brakes.

Thanks for your help, I just want to make sure I have it right before I try it out.

Thanks
Guy

[Got Speed]

I might have forgot to tighten the slipper when I took the spur gear off. It had stripped though because the engine mount came loose(I forgot to re-locktite it). Does anyone have an extra GT manual I could buy? I need to rebuild my diff and I don't have a manual.

[OldskoolGT]

Got Speed,

You can download a PDF manual at:

http://www.factoryteamgt.com/manual.htm#

[FTR]

oldschoolgt- thanks for your input of course i have the mip clutch and i bash. but here is the thing guys i can either pimp out my gt even more or by a really nice 1/12 pan car

[speedydave]

I'm getting a GT with OS CV soon. Any tips or suggestions?:)

[Railman]

earnhardtjr, I have yet to read the article myself, but from what you quoted, it shure sounds like he's talking about the idle speed screw. If he meant the low end , he'd have said low end.
Joe

[atm92484_3]

Dave, just make sure you don't run the engine too lean and you should be good to go. I've had 2 CV engines and I've loved them. You might want to look into getting an aftermarket heatsink. I personally like the MIP head. It looks like crap, but it cools nicely.

good luck

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

Hey a track finally opened up 10 min away from me if been there everyday since its opend.. but if been striping out my sterring servo.. i was woundering if the hi tec 625 mg servo is good enough or should i save up a little more and go for the 645mg is there going to be a major differnce? also i noticed while coming around turns somtimes my front tires are bearly touching the floor what should i do to fix that

[rc_king1]

nitro_ob4_racer,
Where in calf. do you live? Anywhere near sacto.

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

nope i live in So Cal in the La county the new hobby shop track that opend is pegasues (dont know how to spell it exaclty) hobbies In monticlaire california.
but some one please help me with the servo problems and the sterring problem oh yea i have the mip sterring on there

[CGV]

there are a few things you can to keep the front down
-move shocks to inner position and chamber to outer
-add a small weight to the front (what i did) if you dont have any weights just CA glue 10-15 pennies together and zip tie them to the body posts (not the actual body posts but the plastic peice that goes across the front).

before you do either of these things you need to remember that they will change the way your truck jumps. also adding the weight to the front will help prevent pushing.

couldnt run my GT this weekend but its waiting with all the pretty blue stuff, hopefully weds. i will run it.

[CGV]

as far as servos go i use HS-625's for throttle and steering and they do a great job, but more torque & speed is always better :D

[TRXboy]

Hey guys, just tryin a new pic server....


http://imagep.webphotos.iwon.com//1000032802/1000032802_225200240003PM0.6038172.jpg

[ross]

Howcome we have gone back to the first GT thread?

I am using the 645MG for my steering, I thought both the 645MG and the 625MG were the same price apart from the 645MG had more torque but the 625MG was quicker. Anyway I am using a standard servo for the throttle, would it be worth me getting a good servo for the throttle/braking?


I raced my GT yesterday, **** day, the wether was awful.





ross

[speedydave]

4000 posts! Anyways, the truck's CV comes with a O'Donnel head(brand new). It has a lot of other hop ups, and the truck is like new(some parts used a small amount, but the chassis is brand new, i get to make the first scratch!). I've been in RC for almost 4 1/2 years, all electric, and I've been racing for about 1 1/2 years, with nitro and electrics(just racing electric, but pitting with/for nitro guys). One question...is the Hitec 615MG servo strong enough for steering? Thats what the truck is coming with...thanks :) I can't wait to get this thing!:cool:

[atm92484_3]

Ross, Steve just merged all of the posts from the original GT Forum onto the front end of this post and essentially combined both forums into one.

Dave, I'm running a 615mg in my GT and its more than enough to turn the wheels. Sounds like you got yourself a nice deal.

TRX, boooo NMT! :D

[Jwelch]

lol, glass on wheels :cool:

[ttweedle]

Welp, I did it. I bought my first Nitro truck. A FTGT, with an os CV-R to run it. Got Hitec 5425(I think thats right) servos to run it. and an Ofna starter box. Plus all the little stuff to make a nitro run, and keep it running. My one question is how many gallons of fuel does an engine last before it needs rebuilt? How many quarts of fuel will I use on a race day? 3 quals X's 6 minutes and a 30 min main. I Race every other week year round weather permitting.

Thanks in advance

Travis

[atm92484_3]

It depends on the engine, fuel, and how its broken in, but if you treat the CV-R properly, you can expect atleast 7 or 8 gallons from it.

[CGV]

atm- edited for stupidity/wrongness/retardness/(any more?)
to find how much you use in a race day multiply the size of your tank by how many tanks you use in a race day. (run time is usually around 15-20 minutes.)

[ross]

speedydave, a mate of mine used to use that servo on his tmaxx so yes it will be plenty strong enough.

atm,
thanks didnt relise that.




ross

[Got Speed]

CGV-You get 15-20 minutes on a tank and only 2 gallons through your engines?!:eek:

[atm92484_3]

If you're only getting 2 gallons (especially from a top end engine like a CV-R), then you're running it too lean or you aren't cleaning the filter.

[Jwelch]

...and if you're getting 20 minutes of runtime then you must run that sucker richer than a platinum-toothed pimp :D

[Got Speed]

Does anyone have the HPI 5 spoke chrome wheels? Have you had any problems with them?

How about the RPM clawz?

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

hey i just got the hs-605mg is it good enoguh for stering it has 93oz of torquw at .13sec. also is it a good idea to put a fail safe on or a return spring?

[Railman]

Tweedle, I don't have a CV-R, but I asked a very good racer (OS sponser'd) that ran a CV-R how mang gallons he got on his before a rebuild, & he said around 4 gallons. He told me that's pretty much what he always got out of his, regardless of the brand. He previously had run a Nova, & Pico. I think 4 gallons is very good myself. That's a lot of racing!. It depends on how hard you race them, & how well you take care of them though. It's not all the same.
Joe

[ttweedle]

Thanks all for the info. I appreciate it.

Travis

[Got Speed]

Nitro_Ob4_RaCer-i would put both a TRS and a fail safe, because the TRS protects your car if the ball cup pops off the throttle arm or your RX batteries go dead, and the fail safe protects your GT from radio interference and dead TX batteries.

[DR.GT]

ttweedle:

I agree with Railman. I've run both the Rossi's and CV-R's and about 4 to 5 gallons at the most if they are looked after. This is running anywhere from 185 to 235 degrees on any given race day depending on heat to humidity and altitude. After that its hard to keep up with a fresh engine even if its still running fairly well. It depends on the performance criteria you require to stay competitive. On my GT my Rossi I will get anywhere from 7-8 minutes on a tank of fuel. In a 30 minute main thats 3 pit stops for fuel after the starting flag if your smooth. :)

[Gokou]

Concerning engine life... on my current RB X-12 I didn't notice any loss of performance until the 5 gallon mark. I have nearly 7 gallons through it now and it's just now getting to the point where tuning it is becoming very difficult and it loads up after idling for a bit. If I was racing regularly, I would have replaced the piston/sleeve at 5 gallons, but since I haven't raced in a while, I didn't mind the small performance loss too much. Don't get me wrong-- the performance is still very good, but the motor is really starting to get that "tired" feel to it. I think I'll pick up a new P/S for the RB, keep it as a spare, and get a new MT-12B... :)

If it matters, I got 5.5 gallons of good useable life out of my modified .12 CV Hyper. After 5.5 gallons the piston and sleeve was so loose it was nearly untuneable... Then again I was extremely happy to get 5.5 gallons out of an ABN motor :p

[MPTech]

Got Speed, were you able to locate that article "The Truth about Engine Break-In by DAVE GIERKE in the Jan 2002 issue"?

If you can scan it, I would sure appreciate it. You can post it or email me.

[sn469]

im new to the rc runnings, and i am wondering how many of yall are in the san anotnio area and where do go to have some fun.i have a rc10 w/os.12cvx stock gears changing to cvds ... i want some real power and fun out of this car. i like the os engines much easier to deal with over the stock .15. i was thinking about maybe a odonnell head and some gears, but is it worth it to go that route or new engine ????.. i like to stay with the reliability of the os engines and easy startings! any sugguestions?? thanx

[wannabee]

What do yall think of dynamite bearrings? I've read on your past threads that yall really like boca, but my lhs doesn't carry these. I have dynamite and ae to choose from. What do yall think between these two brands?

[Jwelch]

I use dynamite and they're great. AE's are topnotch, but 80 bucks a set!!!! I'd never pay that.

[atm92484_3]

I second what Jwelch said. AE teflon bearings are nice, but they cost a lot.

[Got Speed]

wannabee-I have dynamite bearings and I think they are pretty good for the overall. Pricewise there very good.

MPTech-Sorry I can't find it. Does someone have the page number of the ariticle on engine break in, in RC Nitro?

I entered my first race last night and had the worst time with my car. It would take off perfect and I could keep up with everybody pretty good for the first 3 laps then my engine would really bog down. At full throttle I was probably going about 1/4 throttle normally. So I leaned it and that didn't work, then I tried richening it, and that would help a little but then it would bog down again. I had replaced the gasket on the pull start saturday and it wasn't leaking there, so I looked at the carb and it was leaking. So I sealed it with RTV sealent and it still did it. Whats up?! The engine(AE.15) only has 3 quarts through it. I bought a new o-ring for the carb and will try it out satuday.
Has anyone else had this problem?

[poopie]

sounds like you need a rebuild to me