Associated RC10GT Forum v3.0

[TycoTeamDriver1]

MrZ,

the stock ball cups should be fine. But if you want you can upgrade to RPM ballcups.

[ritchies rc10gt]

the only time i pop ballcups off is if im being dumb and hit something real hard or if it does about 10 cartwheels

[Railman]

MR Z, It comes down to your driving style & the track you run on. If it's a challenging, high bite, high speed track, I would recomend captured ends. The ones most susceptable cups are the ones at the front wheels & the inner rear camber link. Those are the ONLY ones I've ever had pop off, but where I run most use captured ends at those positions. The most popular seems to be "Rocket City" ends.
Joe

[Rotorranch]

MrZ....I highly recomend captured rod ends. I have used them almost from the very begining on my old gold chassis RC-10 back in the late '80's. It didn't take but losing one race because a ball cup poped off for me to cahnge over. I don't even build any of my own cars with ball cups anymore. I also use flat head countersunk screws to hold them in place. The coumtersunk head allows the rod end to pivot freely without binding, and the head is large enough to retain the rod end just in case it does pop off the ball. BTW....stay away from the Dubro rod ends, they seem to be very brittle, and will break on you at the most inopportunistic time, like while you are leading the A main! ;)

Rotor

[atm92484_3]

Mr. Z, if you want captured ends, try using Associated part number 7217 (they are for the shocks but work just as well for the turnbuckles). There are two per pack. If you do try these though I'd only use them on the camber turnbuckles so they don't effect the bumpsteer or rub against the rims. I have these on my rear only and I've never knocked on loose.

<BLINK><MARQUEE>jmo</MARQUEE></BLINK>

[Mrzoidburg]

Thanks guys, all great info. I feel like such a newb with this 2wd.
It was a rear inside cup that popped off. I think i'll do that atm, go the captured on the inside rear and front camber links only.

thanks again guys for all your help.
:)
MrZ

[Mrzoidburg]

Hi guys,
As promised, some pics (low grade) of my new FTGT.
What do you think?

http://a8.cpimg.com/image/0E/00/6261518-d256-01600120-.jpg


http://a5.cpimg.com/image/0B/00/6261515-062c-01600120-.jpg

[atm92484_3]

Cool body Mr. Z. Sounds like you are liking the GT.

[Mrzoidburg]

Thanks man, i do love my GT.

I now understand what other GT owners are talking about!

[Portlander]

sweet car zoidburg, but what's under the hood?

[Mrzoidburg]

Thanks :)

I got a RB C12, non- pullstart with a slide carb and .21 size motorsavers.
I just can't believe how much faster this engine is now that it's not in my NMT.
I love speed.
MrZ

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

hey here is a pic of my gt im geting it in a few days. ne way what u think is the first thing i should do to upgrade it. i am new to off road. i usually race touring can i plz get some help thanks

[BigAirGuy]

Great purchase!! Welcome to the gt world!! Here is the list of upgrades I would consider, in order. New chassis upgrade kit. New head for the OS CV. (an after market one) RPM rear body mounts..... Titanium turnbuckles CVDs (I coun"t tell if it had them already) Lose the pull start. HAVE FUN!!! and good luck if you try to race.:)

[Simbad]

Originally posted by bjr20
Just as long you finally put the hammer down!!!!!!!!
:confused: Bill J. :D . Where were you last sunday to cold for ya?? :o .
Pat.

[atm92484_3]

Nitro OB4, as long as that truck has bearings and CVDs I'd say you are set to go. Titanium turnbuckles wouldn't hurt either but they aren't necessary. Also take a look at RRP machined plastic spur gears.

Personally, I love the tub chassis GTs. I don't know if its just me but they are sort of like a classic car in a way. Anyways that chassis will be fine as long as you are just running a 12 CV but if you jump to anything like a 12 CV-R, you'll want a new plate since the engines torque will be more than enough to flex the chassis and open up the gear mesh.

Have fun.

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

thanks for the repliles
i was wondering if you guys new when this car was made (99)
ne way here is another pic of it thanks

[atm92484_3]

1999 is the latest that model of the GT was made. Thats the same car my GT was: Team GT with a 12 CV-X. It was/still is a great car. Heres mine as of right now, Fall of 2001.

[/url]
[url=http://wsphotofews.excite.com/032/Mp/Wb/5Q/rD62155.jpg] (http://wsphotofews.excite.com/013/Zm/OG/qT/Ah70353.jpg)

Has anyone tried the chassis protection sheets from AE? If so how do they work? I want to get some for my GT and my NTC3 once it shows up.

[GTracer22]

Hey guys i was wondering which chassis would be better to use on my truck, the new longer chassis, or the factory team chassis.
I am currently using the longer 1 and my body is cut for the shorter 1, is there any way i could make it fit?:cool:

[atm92484_3]

Are you talking about the RTR chassis and the regular chassis that comes with the Team and FT trucks or the black tub and the blue tub (FT item for old truck)?

[bjr20]

No Pat, just had family things to do.:mad:

[Simbad]

Originally posted by bjr20
No Pat, just had family things to do.:mad:

Going to show this Sunday??. Can,t find any good competition there:D .
Pat.

[bjr20]

Your on!!!!!!!!!!, but I'll be racing electric, Unless someone wants me to run something as usual.

[FTGT Racer]

For a sway bar you need a piece of steel rod a bit bigger than throttle linkage, and some needle nose pliers, and a few washers that will go over the shock mount screws.

1. loosen the front body mount assembly and run the length of rod behind it above the screw (about a foot of rod will work)

2. bend the rod ends so that they are right in front of the lower front shock mounts.

3. bend the rod into a circle just big enough to fit around the screw that goes into the bottom of the shock.

4. put the washer on the screws and put the rod on after that, tighten down the screw.

5. tighten down the body mount assembly but not enough too bind with the rod.

Sorry ittook so long I was having problems getting back on I hope this is what you wanted I made one and it works great, just message me if help is needed

[OmegaTrac]

Hey all,
The hopups i have for my GT RTR are as follows:
a.HiTec 605-MG steering servo
b.MIP 4 in 1 Clutch
c.Proline Step Pins Rear Tires
d.Team Associated Rear Rims-Neon Yellow

I will pick up a Mugen MT .12 when the time comes:0)


What Next?

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Omega, a mandatory upgrade that you didn't list is an aluminum brake nut. Trust me, you need it.

Mark O.

[GTracer22]

The longer chassis is the new one on the team built and the other 1 is the regular flat FT chassis.

[atm92484_3]

Are you sure about that? I'm 99.9% sure that Team Built shares the same chassis with the Team and Factory Team GT kits.

Omega, defiently get an aluminum brake nut like GTman said. I can't tell you how many plastic ones I've worn through but trust me, its not fun when one of those strips and you try to stop ;).

[Jwelch]

good call, marcus, lol. BTW, the Duratrax brake disc isn't a bad idea either, it's much more durable.

[poopie]

i finally got my factory team gt running well. i'm running proline street tires for street and losi pins and ribs for dirt. those are the tires i mainly run but a got a set rear sand paws and blade fronts and dirt paws in the rear and blades in the front. i also got a .12 cv-rx with stock pipe that i run a lot, but when i'm bored i'll stick my RB c12 pullstart with tinity pipe in there and tear up my lawn. i am run pretty low end gearing but the speed from the cv-rx and c12 helps out a lot. i got a few questions though. what caster blocks do you reccomend on the street? i'm runing stock ones but my gt won't turn worth a crap at high speeds. i need a caster block that will put more tire contact path on the ground. also, should i put 0 degrees toe in to make it more stable on the straights? it feels like i have to steer with the steering trim on the radio or the GT will get all out of shape and wobble like crazy. thanks for the help.

if anyone has some extra wheel bearings lease let me know. i'm tired of switching out berings in my rims. i woul like to to install a set and just leave it there. i need about 12 total bearings.

[atm92484_3]

Poopie, for onroad, get the blocks with the lowest degree. I think they make 0 but 5 should be good since the steering will still be much more agressive than with the 30 blocks. You might also want to try tuning the front suspension a little if the lower blocks don't help.

[Simbad]

Originally posted by bjr20
Your on!!!!!!!!!!, but I'll be racing electric, Unless someone wants me to run something as usual.

Mines runing good!!:rolleyes: see you there Bill.

Pat.

[poopie]

thanks for your input. i will see if my lhs has some caster blocks. i think i have enough spare parts to ebuild a whole front end so you think it might be easier to have an onroad and offroad front set up? so all i would have to do is disconnect a few turnbuckles and loosen 4 screws to switch them out. i'm running fairly soft springs on 100 wt shock oil and that seems to work pretty well.

[Portlander]

I wouldn't switch front ends at all, when you pop your turnbuckles off, the ball cups get loser and loser, and will eventually pop off in a race. just switch the casterblocks, but make sure you have a bunch of e-clips handy.

[poopie]

i'm using captured links...i'm probably gonna go with switching front ends. it seems a lot easier cause i would have to switch shocks and i think the caster blocks might affect front toe in and bump steer if it does i'm definantly gonna go with 2 different front end set ups.

[crawfordna]

Hey guys... I just rebuilt my stealth transmission and think I may have screwed it up some how.

Here's what it does: when lifting the rear end up and spinning one tire forward, the other one goes in the opposite direction (naturally). However, when I do that, I'm getting a bit of creaking/grinding noise.

When I spin the spur gear forward, it doesn't make any noise. My concern though is the noise when I lift the truck up and spin a rear tire. Is this a normal sound? I'm fairly new to the stealth tranny, just curious.

The truck runs tremendously strong...

Thanks!

[atm92484_3]

If its a grinding sound then there might be something gritty in either the diff balls or the thrust bolt. When I rebuild my diff, I always have a noise but I wouldn't call it a grinding noise. Its just more of a noise like the friction between the two pieces. Personally, I'd say it is more important that the diff feels smooth. As long as its smooth then you should be okay.

[TycoTeamDriver1]

Yeah you probably got a piece of something in the lube/oil. Like a dirt particle or something. Mine has the Friction Noise to. Well because i have to rebuild my diff every other week now.

[Jace2000]

Guys...
Is anyone here using the progressive suspension reservoirs?
Mine are beginning to leak at the bottom end where the clips are. Is anyone else having the same prob? It didn't do this before....

[RC10GTMark]

I suggest getting a metal diff gear and top shaft w/gear and keeping the idle gear plastic, and keep 2 idle gears on hand. It will go through idler gears a little fast, but the tranny will be industrucatble while that idle gear lasts (about 3 months for me) and I run a cv-r.

If the diff is binding than it has dirty in it, or the gear itself is broken. It is definately the diff cause it doesn't happen when u turn the spur. Diff rings/balls only turn when u turn a single wheel.

[wojo65]

I got a factory team gt my hop ups are
motor savers air filter
RRP spur and clutchbell
CVEC pipe
picco.12 round port rear exhaust slide carb
high torque steering servo
mip 4-n-1 clutch
trinity 1100mah metal hydrid battery
jr y harness
jr xr2 radio and reciever
what else should i do to my car?? its a factory team i am looking at the:
MIP Super Diff Rebuild RC10GT
MIP Thrust Rebuild Kit Associated
are those the only items i should upgrade to??

[atm92484_3]

I have to disagree with Mark on the metal gears. I would highly suggest staying away from those. First they are expensive and second (like Mark said) they wear parts out. I still have the original gears that came with the GT in the Fall of 99 and they are just fine: no wear. On top of that, they've had a 12 CV-R powering them for a year. Just make sure the diffs are smooth. If not, then check the thrust nut and bearings and relubing those 6 balls (put new grease on them). I did this on my NDS (same Stealth 2.6 tranny as GT) and it made a world of difference. My ball diffs always make a noise but as long as its not a major grinding noise then you should be okay.

<marquee>jmo</marquee>

[Portlander]

go to http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/uss.htm it's a site by Jodie Green, and tells all about the 'secrets' of the stealth tranny, and how to rebuild your differential.

[Mrzoidburg]

I agree with ya there, that's a great site. Particularly if you're a first time GT owner.

[crawfordna]

Thanks for all the help with the Diff guys!

One more newbie RC10GT question --

Are there any really good aftermarket heads that will bolt to the AE .15 engine? Looking for the best cooling head I can find... This thing is running hot, not to the point where it fails the water test, but still hot... I'd like to cool it down a little bit so I can make this engine last quite a long time!

Thanks again
--Nick

[Railman]

I totally agree with ATM. Stick with the stock gears. When it's time for a diff rebuild I'd go with MIP's diff, & thrust kits. They are excellent. More often than not it's the thrust that causes the gritty feeling. Just my $.02
Joe

[Gokou]

Jace, your piggybacks are leaking too? Wow, weird timing. I noticed about 3 weeks ago that 2 of mine were leaking, right from the bottom. I put new o-rings on and that stopped it. Honestly, I think it's partly a design problem-- the end caps can rock around in the body of the reservoir, and if they stay that way too long the o-ring will take a set. Then when you compress the suspension (building pressure and forcing the cap back even with the retaining clip) the now distorted o-ring can't seal and lets shock oil right by. Personally, if I designed them, I would have milled either a slot inside to accept another retaining ring (so the cap can sit up against something in the body and not rock) or left the walls thicker on the body and counterbored it only deep enough to fit the cap, so again, it has something to rest on when you install it. As they are designed now you can push the caps all the way into the body, and as a result the caps can either suck up into the body, tweak sideways a little, or both.

I changed o-rings on my two leaky ones, and they are still holding fine. I went down to my local plumbing supply house and bought neoprene o-rings which are a little thicker than the stock ones progressive supplies, and they fit much tighter while still being fairly easy to install. Take a sample with you and try to match them up, then see what they have one size bigger in thickness.

[atm92484_3]

Craw, if its not failing the water test then why waste the money? Just from me experience, I've found that engines run best when they hot (not like 300 degrees though some will haul pootie-tang at that point), but maybe 250ish.

For an aftermarket head, the only company I know of that makes one is Associated. I'm pretty sure they have them in blue, black, and purple.

Associated Heatsinks (http://www.rc10.com/newprod/29034_29060.htm)

<marquee>jmo</marquee>

[crawfordna]

Whaaaat? Don't fix it if it's not broken? C'mon... what's the fun in that? :D

Thanks for the info... I'll leave it alone. I always figured that an engine from a company that doesn't really make engines wouldn't be all that great, but wow... this seems to be one strong little guy. (Now that I know it's really a Thunder-Tiger).

Thanks!

[atm92484_3]

I know what you mean about the AE/TTR 15. That thing hauls. My friend's stock GT RTR was almost keeping up with my FT GT with a 12 CV-R. Granted he was running 20% and I was only on 10%, but this is a nice engine: especially for a RTR. I hate when people bash the RTR by saying it doesn't have bearings. Personally I think its good they included such a sweet engine over bearings since a bearing set is only around $30 but a new, good engine can run $80+.

[Jace2000]

Goku, good to see that you're still around and thanks for the answer. You're right, I'm gonna have to find some new O-rings for my reservoirs. Something a little bigger than the O-rings that originally came with it.
Thanks for the advice.

[GTracer22]

Hey which engine do you guys think i should get for my RC10Gt to race? The price doesnt really matter and it has to be a .12 .:cool:

[Simbad]

Originally posted by GTracer22
Hey which engine do you guys think i should get for my RC10Gt to race? The price doesnt really matter and it has to be a .12 .:cool:

I have been using a OS hyper.12 and have had a lot of luck with it so far!. All I have to do now is keep it on the track:D .

Pat.

[poopie]

i absolutely love my RB c12. with dirt paws on i can excavate my entire lawn. an OS will do nicely since the gt isn't a heavy truck so evan a .12 cv will work good.

is anyone using a Calendra brass break system? i have had it a while and just recently i noticed there are some gold-colored metal bits on my chassis. i'm guess it is from the break disk but i'll strip down the truck and clean it up and put the stock plastic one to see if the shavings return.

[GTracer22]

I allready have an O.S CV-R and i love it, but i want to buy a seperate engine just for racing.What do you guys think about a novarossi or a trinity/picco?

[TRXboy]

Hey guys..Im baaaackk......:):D

[Mrzoidburg]

Hi Guys,
At the track last weekend i thought my truck was kinda pulling to one side, can't remember which now. Just been up at the shed cleaning it ready for next Sunday, put it back together for a test run.
Got it started and noticed that one wheel wasn't spinning like the other. Let me explain.
I have the throttle trim up when i start it, when it's going i back it off just until the brake starts to grab.
The thing is the right wheel stopped before the left, i had to back the trim off more until both wheels stopped.
Then when i pushed the throttle, it seemed like the left wheel was spinning faster than the right, you could see it balooning more than the right.

The only thing i thought of was it might be the diff, so i pulled the wheels off and dropped a cvd. I tightened it up again and un-did it 1/8 of a turn as per the book. I realized that it was out 1/4 of a turn instead of 1/8.

Would this have been the problem? Would it also explain the truck pulling to one side on the straight?

Thanks

:)
MrZ

[poopie]

i think your problems are from the wheel binding. try this: loosen the wheel nut on the right wheel a bit. if it seems like the resistance is the same on both wheels now, you have bindage where the wheel fits on the cvd axle. you just need to shim it up better and you shouldn't have anymore problems.

[atm92484_3]

GTracer, of the two you mentioned, I'd go for the Rossi just because they sound like great engines. It also sounds like people like the MT12. If you want to stick with O.S., they are releasing the 12 TR (rear exhaust .12 with 1.1 BHP) in a few weeks.

[ritchies rc10gt]

lets not forget about the dynamite .12 SPD.i had one on my GT and it would pass everybody on the straight but since i suck at driving i would crash in the corners.its a great engine for 80 bux

[wojo65]

I have had the sweetest run i have ever had with my ftgt. I have a picco.12 rear exhuast slide. I came in to shut my car off it stopped half way in the drive way i gave it throttle and it wouldnt move, i went down to the car and the flywheel turns the clutchbell and the clutchbell turns the spur but it wont spin the wheel?? i am stumped what could be wrong??:confused:

[GTracer22]

Check the differential it might need to be tightened.I had the same problem and it was my diff.

[atm92484_3]

First check your tranny and diff and make sure they are okay. Next (if you have CVDs), check and see if a pin broke. I did this a lot and what you are describing is what would happen. If you have CVDs this is probably what wrong. If that doesn't help, check and see if the slipper clutch is okay and that the pins on the axles haven't slipped and stripped a rim.

[wojo65]

Well i took apart my trans. i was amazed, my diff gear was torn apart, the insides where the bearings go was torn from the outside of the diff. gear, should i get the same diff. or go for a aftermarket one?:p

[wojo65]

it looks like it was melted. Man i am so low on cash and this happens lol, looks like my gt wont be see'in much action :(

[atm92484_3]

My guess is your diff was too loose, slipped, and caused the gear to heat up. Then it melted. I'd say just get a new stock gear but you are probably going to have to get a new idler gear also since the gears wear with eachother and form a mesh. A new diff gear but an old idler gear my cause excess wear on one or the other.

<marquee>jmo</marquee>

[TRXboy]

wojo- i did that with my Diff(CV-R) I use the robinson diff gear now, havent had anyproblems, if you are gunna go with the Gear i sujest some MIP diff balls, they last longer and work better with the gear.

[wojo65]

My diff. was as tight as it could get, the guys at the hobby shop are like tighten it all the way up that engine has ALOT of power, i am gonna buy the following:

MIP Super Diff Rebuild RC10GT

MIP Thrust Rebuild Kit Associated

Robinson Racing RC10GT Aluminum Diff Gear

Robinson Racing Steel Idler Gear w/Grease RC10GT

Robinson Racing Titanium Top Shaft Associated Stealth

would that be a wise buy??

[GTracer22]

Yeah thats a good set-up, its the same exact stuff i have and im staisfied with the performance.

[Portlander]

Wojo65-don't buy the aluminum tranny gears! they wear down a little and the shavings get in the bearings and screw it all up, plus you need to get in there and lube them up from time to time. the stock gears are fine, and are self lubricating. and the RRP gears are way over priced. your problem with the clutch bell and spur spinning but the truck not moving happened to me too, the weirdest thing happened, the thrust bolt head tore right off, and the out-drives rubbed against the gear and melted it around the bearings, only cost two bucks for a new gear luckily.
Mrzoidburg- a loose diff couldn't of been the problem, because it would slip, but both wheels would slip evenly, the diff bolt tightens both sides together.

[OmegaTrac]

Hey all,
Current Hop-Ups are;
1. RRP 65 Tooth Spur Gear
2.Pro-Line Step-Pins
3. Associated Yellow Rear Rims
4. Associated Air Filter and Prefilter
5. Red Associated Springs all the way around


And now the questions
1. What Weight of shock oil comes with the RTR?
2. Should I upgrade to MIP 3/16in CVD's
3. How do you get glued tires off their rims?
4. Should I get a Mugen Seiki MT.12 Rear exhaust when the time comes for a new motor?

[TRXboy]

I run the ti Top- steel idler and alumnium diff, they look new...7 gallons, the look new, ill take pics if you dont belive me.

As for the other questions, stock shock oil is 30wt, yes up grade to the 3/16 CVD-bearings, For a replacement engine i say go with an O.S .12 CV-R for a little more power and much easyer tuning, i take a razor blad and go along the edges of my tires to get them off the rim, time consuming but it works.

[kaiserscosie]

To answer someone's question about the aftermarket head on the AE engine, two companies make one. Associated and hobby etc. Or GPM. I have the 12 fin GPM one on my GT and it really made a big difference in the temp of the engine. I can run it leaner without heating it up to much and it really looks cool. Here is a link to the GPM head:http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=299&car_id=22

[Rotorranch]

Portlander wrote....."Mrzoidburg- a loose diff couldn't of been the problem, because it would slip, but both wheels would slip evenly, the diff bolt tightens both sides together."
==============================================

Portlander.......MrZ's problem could be caused by a loose diff. (Seems to be a lot of that going around!) As for one tire spinning and the other not, the one not spinning has more drag, i.e. a siezed bearing, bound up CVD, wheel binding on the hub bearing, improper shims on rear stub axle, etc.


Rotor

[Rotorranch]

Wojo.......what you described could very well have been caused by a loose diff! That's probably what melted the diff gear!

I'd go back with stock gears. You can buy a bunch of those for what you'd spend on the aftermarket metal gears!

Rotor

[wojo65]

so those gears shave?? i heard there perfect for my engine (picco.12) i have the alum. tranny case, if i put those in it i heard it owuld be sweeeeet. so am i wasting my money or not?

[Railman]

I would definately stay with the stock gears. I just change out the diff gear every other diff rebuild or so. They are only $2 each, & will perform better than the greased gears option. If the diff melted it was because something wasn't right with the setup, or maybe you spun the wheels at high rpm while one was in the air & the other on the ground. That can also cause a meltdown if done for too long, because it forces the diff to rotate at extreme speeds durring the counter rotation condition. Another common problem is that if the diff screw gets put on the wrong side. If it is it will cause the screw to loosen & allow the diff to slip, & lead to a meltdown. I'm shure that that the Pico rear exhaust is potent, but that's not the problem. Just my $.02
Joe

[KC10Chief]

I just bought an adapter to put the carbeurator from my old OS .12 CV onto my Mugen MT .12. What a difference! It's almost too much poser! I'm running a 16/64 gear ratio and it will still wheelie on me. That carb makes a LOT of difference and I gotta control my throttle finger to keep in under control! Tonight at the races I cleaned up in the A main. Took first place out of 8 other drivers. I'll try to get some pics up here in the next few days! Matt

[Railman]

Way to go KC!
I was just wondering, what's your take on the stock vs alum gear thing? What do you run?
Joe

[wojo65]

So no gears stick to stock, it wont improve anything at all??

[KC10Chief]

I use the stock gears. I've never had a problem with them. I've taken the tranny apart a few times to check on them and they look like they're brand new. I say if it isn't broke and performs well, don't mess with it. I don't want to take a chance using something else and have it mess up my tranny bearings. With my truck, I like dependability more than anything else and it help me win some races. When somebody had to drop out even for a few seconds and I don't, it can be a deciding factor. Matt

[atm92484_3]

I can't see any improvement of aftermarket gears over stock other than the fact with stock you'll have enough money to buy other things.

[GTracer22]

Hey where can i get an alumiun tranny case for my gt?

[wojo65]

I have a factory team gt with a picco. 12 rear exhaust slide carb, a CVEC pipe, robinson racing spur and clutchbell, aluminum tranny case, mip 4-n-1 clutch, trinity 1100 mah metal hydrid pack, jr y harness and the xrs radio, what would be some hop ups for my car, i get to get 100 dollars in hop ups for my b-day from my mom and dad and then they get to pick my other gifts for a suprise what should i get??

I was thinking the :
MIP super diff. rebuild
MIP thrust rebuild
MIP lite drives
MIP 0 maintenance steering
kimbrough servo saver
would this be a good choice what hop ups does everyone else think i should put in my car??

[wojo65]

GPM, my local hobby shop got it for me.

[GTracer22]

Dont get the lite outdrives they wear down fast and dont really do anything to the cars performance.

[wojo65]

alum. tranny case (http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=4954&car_id=22)

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres a link to a picture of my gt http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/366-ritchy/tgt1.jpg

[OmegaTrac]

Why would I want to get 3/16in CVD's and not 1/4in CVD's? Since the 1/4in CVD's are larger wouldn't they be best for a Nitro truck? thoughts?

[TRXboy]

omega- the bearings on the 1/4 are smaller, they blow up almost every run, 3/16 bearings are larger and much much more durable.

[Mrzoidburg]

for the record guys i think it was the wheel binding, i changed wheels and tightened them up, same deal, loosened the right and it was perfect.
thanks
:)
MrZ

[GTracer22]

Hey guys i just put a different associated chassis on my truck and the body mounts seem to be farther apart than my old chassis and wont fit my body. Do any of you know what i could do?
1 of the chassis is off of a ftgt and the other is off of a newer team. PLEASE HELP ME!!

[atm92484_3]

Are you sure you have the same chassis? If you went from a tub to a new plate, the plate is about 1/4" longer so theres the problem. If not, then see if the chassises are the same length or if ones tweeked. You can do this by putting one under the one thats on the truck.

[OmegaTrac]

Is the chasis on the RTR the same as the one on the Team and Factory Team?

[GTracer22]

They are both flat chasiss,neither of them are tweaked, but now that i look at them it looks like they are the same size, but the posts dont line up with the body.The body fit when i had the ftgt chassis but it doesnt with the other 1. It might have something to do with the front bulkhead.

[atm92484_3]

Make sure the front posts are turned the same way as they were with the old chassis. I know I've bend posts and they don't line up right if they aren't in the same posistion.

[GTracer22]

They are lined up i allready checked.

[atm92484_3]

How far off are the mounts from the holes?

[OmegaTrac]

Is the chasis on the RTR the same as the one on the Team and Factory Team?

[KC10Chief]

I was wondering what the advantage is of the maintenance free steering? The setup that came with my FTGT seems to be fine other than there is a slight bit of play in the wheels. It appears to be the steering servo. I am using a JR radio and standard servos. I was thinking about maybe getting a faster servo too. The one in my truck is slow. Do you think I would notice a difference in performance? Thanks for any info! Matt

[GTracer22]

you will notice a slight difference in the steering,it will be smoother because of the ball bearings in it. You will also need a servo saver because it will be easy to strip servo gears.

[Jace2000]

There seems to be a lot of discussion concerning the usage of after market products for the GT.

To make a long story short, I run stock gears now.
I used to have it all. Except for the aluminum gear box.
I had Robinson everything and also used ceramic diff balls from Acer racing. I used to buy the MIP diff rebuild kit and used just the hardened diff plate just to be able to use those tough ceramic balls. I've got tons of those unused MIP diff balls in my parts box.
Someone here mentioned shavings coming off the optional gears.
This is absolutely true. These shavings are then mixed up with the gear grease and causes unwanted wear and goo.
The more I run the stock stealth gear, the more I'm amazed.
If you build the stock stealth gear properly and spin the spur gear, you'll be amazed too. The rear wheels should spin freely almost as much as the front ones. You just can't get this with full after market upgrade.

I race often and never had problems with my stock gears. Just make your diff doesn't come too loose. I make it a habit to check the diff before every run.

PS. I still use the ceramic balls though. Boy do they last ! :D

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

I ran my gt today. i got it friday night in the mail and i broke it in yersterday. and today i drove it alot. This car is awsome. i havent had tis much fun with an rc as i did with this car. but i had some problems such as teh rear body post bein lost. This truck has a tub chassi would it be worth to upgrade later or is the tub cassi good. dose any one have an extra rear body post they can get me. my lhs is out and i have no money:mad: so maybe i can get some help from you people thanks

[wojo65]

hey jace do you have a complete diff rebuild with plates balls and everything?? If you do i am interested in it, i would pay if you would sell one!

[wojo65]

everything in GPM its made of blue aluminum

rear arm set

lower shock mount

front arm set

extended rear tranny case

rear shock tower

blue front shock tower

is that a good list of aluminum hop ups??

[ilovemygt]

i havent been around in a while ive been busy racing motorcycles. well there is only two races left then iam back to rc before the winter hits. i need to get my gt running again iam having problems with my clutch. it kills bearings so i put bushing in and it made the inside diamter of the bushing so much bigger that the clutch wont even work right in ONE run! i dont know whats wrong with it could it be that on my mip clutch the holes for the flywheel pins are orn out so much that it dosent stay centered? or is it because i put grease on the bushing this is really making me mad i never had these problems before with bushing

[Jace2000]

Wojo...
I would have given it to you for free if this issue had been mentioned earlier but I gave them all to a friend.
Sorry :(

[wojo65]

No problem man, i will ask for it for my birthday:D i got a nice b-day list:
MIP super diff rebuild
MIP thrust rebuilt
MIP 0 maintenance steering
kimrbough large servo saver
and a new diff gear since i melted mine hehe

i traded a paintball gun for this car tell me what you guys think:
double x
ti turnbuckles
aluminum bulk head
full rubber sided bearings
all graphite parts
custom rear stiffener
cvds
extra chassis
ti nitride shocks
graphite chassis
two sets of tires
new step pins
extra gears
springs
tempest pro speed control
set of matched 2000’s
unmatched set of 2000’s
one 2400
apex sigma digital charger
futaba transmitter and receiver
“more hop ups than ke version”
“no stock parts besides the front shock arms”
“one time it was the best car in Canada it won our champs”
“has around 1000 bucks in Canadian in it”
“broken front suspension arm”


i think it sounds sweeeeeeet but its for my girlfreind ( i wanna get her into this hobby to where she just loves driving rc car as much as me)

[GTracer22]

The mounts are off by uuuuhhhhh... 2mm i think

[digitizer]

New to this forum... great info! I have read most of the post from gtII but I cant find the older posts and there are several that reference to a set up for slide carb from a thread I cant find.

I have a .12 CV-RX(s) this is my first slide carb and am having second thoughts. First night impressions werent good though it is in a new truck as well and still have more tuning to do.
Before I figure out this setup... the right expo, proper servo arm length, dif setup to work with this carb.. is it worth it... or should I bail and get a rotary carb for it. Il spring for the carb if its best or figure out the setup if thats the case too...

any thoughts... love/hates etc

[ritchies rc10gt]

i am always killing the CB bearings on my gt.i didnt have this problem with the stock engine.this is what i have noticed and would like you guys with different engines to check.it seems to me that the clutchnut/pilot shaft that associated sells for the engine conversion is a different size from the stock crank.the bearings i have fit the stock engine perfectly.but the inside diameter of the bearing seems to be bigger than the diameter of the new pilot shaft.i just bought a new pilot shaft cuz mine was worn where the bearing rides on it.i also bought a new set of bearings.i put it together and it still has alot of slop in it.is there a different set of bearings that we are supposed to use?

[Mrzoidburg]

I just installed a RB C12 slide carb into my new FTGT and found the linkage installation as simple as installing a slide. As long as you under the basics of carb linkages, you will find it a piece of cake.

[ritchies rc10gt]

i just bought the new tankfor my GT.it makes tuning the low end needle a hell of alot easier but i dont like the way the fuel line goes on it cuz i cant ziptie it on so it wont fall off.it already came off twice.and the cap should have been turned around so the ziptie can go through the front instead of the rear.but it is a good idea

[cucountry]

Hey all, whats up. Im moving to florida next year and they have an awesome track for running nitro trucks and buggys. Right now i just have an RTR that i put a lot of upgrades into for some serious banging around on some local motocross tracks. Im buying a Factory team very soon and i would like some feedback from anyone who races competitively on what hop ups i will need. Such as aluminum rear or front bulkheads, hub carriers, a-arms, shock towers and whatever else i would need to change to make the truck tough enough to stand up to the poundings of racing. Money isnt a problem so im looking to add whatever is neccesary. Ive already got a good novarossi racing engine and good hi-tec digital servos so im only really needing advice on good chassis hop ups. I have a set of piggyback resevoirs on my truck now but will i need some for racing too? Everyone's feedback is appreciated.

[GT_Maniac]

Personally, I said the heck with that Associated throttle linkage. Its too much of a hassle. What I did was take a piece of throttle linkage wire and bend an s- curve at the end for the throttle arm. Install the linkage to the throttle arm and through the throttle pivot on the servo. Then install a bronze collar at the end. Lastly, install a throttle return spring from the throttle arm to the engine mount screw. This seems to work much better than the stock linkage, and its much simpler to set up. :D

[ttweedle]

I am going to get a FTGT, but everything that goes in it is up in the air. I want a fast racing engine maybe an OS CV-r, but this will be my first Nitro, so let me know if a different engine would be best, I will need servos also, I have a Hitec lynx 3d w/ Spectra module so I will be getting the Novak synthised reciever to go with it for this truck. Basicly let me know what parts to change before I ever run the truck, if they are needed. This will be a Racing only truck, Looking to put around $1500-
$2000 up front so that I can keep it on the track, may even buy a second FTGT as a back up. and have spare parts gallore... Any and all help will be appreciated...

[cucountry]

Well i just put in the same request and i havent heard back from anyone yet on what hop ups i should add to race. I have the same radio and receiver too. As for servos i decided to keep it with the Hi-tec brand and i bought a pair of their new digital servos that have come very highly recommended. I got the hi torque 5945 for steering and the high speed 5925 for the throttle even though it was a little overkill. Hopefully someone will respond to our request on which chassis and suspension upgrades would be best for racing.

[wojo65]

I would help but i cant im a newbie to i mean as far as upgrades from what my hobby shop said was go with:

MIP 4-n-1 clutch on "2" setting

MIP super diff. rebuild

MIP thrust rebuild

MIP 0 maintenance steering

Kimbrough large servo saver

robinson racing spur and clutchbell

CVEC pipe

motor savers air filter

piggy back shocks

thats what im doing to my car this week minus some of those things i already have. but thats what i think what would help.

[GTracer22]

I thought CVEC pipes werent race legal.But any way heres some stuff that would b good for racing:

RPM bulkhead

MIP 4-n-1 clutch on "2" setting

MIP super diff. rebuild

MIP thrust rebuild

MIP 0 maintenance steering

Kimbrough large servo saver

MIP lite weight flywheel

If you are getting the factory team gt everything else comes with it, so there isnt much that you can get that it doesnt have on it.I hope i didnt forget anything, oh yeah you also need many spare parts like a-ams, skrews,etc.:cool:

[wojo65]

they might not be but i use the when i rce other trucks, we dont have an "official" rules except no ramming, but if not i heard the turbo ring pipe by paris was good.

[cucountry]

Are the RPM a-arms better than the ones that come with the factory team? Would you recommend any aluminum
a-arms, bulkheads, or shocktowers or are they too heavy to race?
My budget is unlimited so i would like to have the best.

[GTracer22]

Yeah the rpm a arms are strongr than stock. You dont need an alumiunum bulkhead because ball ends will get jammed in it, Iwould get the rpm stuff instead of aluminum.The shock towers are graphite so you dont need alumium.do you want me make you a list of stuff you should get?

[cucountry]

actually that about seals the deal. That should about answer most of my questions. I will just order up a bunch of RPM parts and try that. The only aluminum hop up that i think that i will use is the transmission cover from GPM. I will make sure that i order 2 or 3 sets of a-arms and probably an extra bulkhead. Im also going to use the RPM rear 3 degree mounts. Im also considering switching out the team chassis for a titanium one from hardcore racing but im not sure yet. Im already using all of the MIP parts in my Gt that i have now and they work awesome. I think after i get my racing truck built that i will convert my RTR to the New Era chassis with .21 engine. I think it would be cool to make a hill climber or sand racer with the big engine. Do you know anyone that has that kit yet? Thanks for your help.

[wojo65]

cucountry might i take some of those parts off your hands hehe nah im just joking i have th GPM tranny case its nice its pretty trick lookin also its a eye grabber lol:D

[cucountry]

Yes that tranny case looks cool. My buddy has one and he hasnt had any problems with it yet.

[wojo65]

I would also get the GPM extended tranny brace. It gives it a sweeeeeet trick look, i think its just eye candy but hey you gotta have alil eye candy

[cucountry]

yep, thats half the fun!:D

[atm92484_3]

Cucountry, it sounds like you don't have a GT yet. If this is the case, the keep the stock arms. IMO they are much better. Plus you said you wanted to race so the RPM arms won't be as good. I've been running my GT since the Fall of 1999 and I've yet to break a stock arm. This includes all the times I've gone off some pretty big jumps and screwed up the landing. The thing about RPM's plastic is it flexes more (this makes it bad for racing). Therefore it gives as opposed to cracking (makes it better for bashing). Unless you plan on chucking your GT off your house, then you could probably save some money or if you do break stock parts, then replace them with RPM.

Like I said before, I've never broken any arms and the only stock parts I've busted since I got my GT were the rear bulkhead and the tranny brace. Both of these were a result of me getting some big air (about 15 ft) and landing directly on my tail from that height.

For you guys asking about throttle linkages, all I did was I replaced that little silver piece that connect the throttle linkage to the servo horn with one of the bronze collars. Then I ran a 4-40 x 3/16" screw (same ones that hold the spur on) through the servo horn and screwed it in. A small drop of CA holds the screw in there and I've totally eliminated a weak point in the system. I've had quite a few of the old linkages fail but this one has never let me down.

Ttweedle, the 12 CV-R is a great engine. To be honest, it may not be the most powerful out there (but I have my doubts on some other companies' ratings), but it still hauls. On top of that its extremely easy to tune. However, since this is your first nitro, I'd reccomend you try something like a 12 CV. Its not as powerful but it will still make the GT fly. This is what I originally had in the GT and I loved it. This engine never let me down. Other than getting some springs, oil, and tires, some spur gears and clutchbells (I'd reccomend RRP for the spurs and clutchbells; they seem to last longer) to tune it to the track, the GT is race ready. Some people will tell you to get the MIP clutch but that is totally up to you. I've stuck with the stock and its worked well. It probably depends on the track also. Some of the stuff wojo listed is nice but you don't need it (piggy backs, . Also I don't agree on getting that 0 maintaince steering since the stock one is just fine. If stuff breaks or wear out, then you can replace those parts with aftermarket things if you want (like the diff balls and stuff like that) but other than that you don't need to dump a lot of money into the GT to make it race worthy.

<marquee>jmo</marquee>

[cucountry]

What bulkhead did you replace yours with? I wasnt for sure about the nylon construction in the RPM arms for racing. I was looking for some good graphite/composite replacements arms but i havent been able to find any but the stock ones. They claim to be a composite but im not sold on that yet. I dont have my FTGT yet, just my RTR with lots of hop ups for bashing. What are you using for your shock towers?

[atm92484_3]

I just put the stock bulkhead back on. Also I've kept with the stock shock towers also. Also (I don't know if you know this) the Team and FT shock towers are different from the RTR's. The RTR's towers are molded plastic while the Team is cut fiberglass and the FT is woven graphite. If you look back a page or so you can see that my GT is pretty much stock. It might just be me, but thats the way I like it.

<marquee>jmo</marquee>

[KC10Chief]

Cucountry, don't get carried away! I wouldn't upgrade those arms. The stock ones are just fine. I have raced the hell out of my truck and slammed it into jumps and cartwheeled it etc and have yet to break an arm. The RPM arms flex too much and they don't handle as well as the stock arms. If you want to get anything RPM, get a RPM rear bulkhead and RPM body mounts. Other than that, the stock setup that comes with the FTGT is great. You can have the most hopped up truck out there, but if you suck at driving, you'll lose to an RTR with a good driver every time. The only thing I have upgraded on my truck is the engine and the rear tires. I have a mugen MT .12 with an OS carb on it. But most of all, I practice and I can run consistent laps without flipping over and I can pick a line and keep on it. I win almost every race I race in. For now, I wouldn't upgrade a thing on that FTGT until you break something. The only thing I would suggest is getting a throttle linkage like they use on a Mugen 1/8 buggy. They're great and a lot more dependable than the stock setup. Matt

[cucountry]

How often do you race your track and how big is the track?

[cucountry]

I wasnt going to replace anything on it when i get it, i am just wondering about replacement parts mainly. I like to have about 2 extra of most parts that i break which is mostly a-arms since i like to jump my beater truck off of motocross jumps. But i want to be fully stocked when i am ready to start racing.

[GTracer22]

Hey guys i figured out the problem with the longer chassis and my body not fitting.It turns out that the newer ftgt chassis are slightly longer thanth older ones. So does any1 know how i could make my body fit the mounts?:(

[atm92484_3]

You said it was only 2mm off; you should be able to just force the body on or enlarge both the front and rear holes by 1mm (or something like that).

[GTracer22]

I tried melting them so they will fit but now they are at an angle so the body clips wont fit in over the body.

[ilovemygt]

no one answered my question yet so here it goes again
iam having problems with my clutch. it kills bearings so i put bushing in and it made the inside diamter of the bushing so much bigger that the clutch wont even work right in ONE run! i dont know whats wrong with it could it be that on my mip clutch the holes for the flywheel pins are orn out so much that it dosent stay centered? or is it because i put grease on the bushing this is really making me mad i never had these problems before with bushing

[atm92484_3]

I've had that happen before but its usually after about 2 or 3 gallons. Its normal though (eventually) since you are running bushings. Since you are blowing bearings out and wearing down bushings it sounds like you either have the clutch engauging too late (so it reaches a very high RPM before engauging and causes bearing failure) or your idle is set too high.

[Mrzoidburg]

While were on the subject of clutch bearings, i checked mine out on the weekend and the clips that hold the inner sheild have come out so the sheild is floating loosley in there. Is there a bearing upgrade for these?
On my NMT i took out the needle bearing and put in 4 x roller bearings. Is there a similar conversion?

Can i just put in 4 x 3/16 x 5/16 bearings or are the stock 2 x flanged bearings the best set-up?

Thanks
:)


ps, round 1 of a 3 round trophy event at my club this Sunday, i intend on getting a podium finnish! ;)

[Rotorranch]

Ilove.......Sounds like maybe you are setting the gear mesh too tight? I prep 3 FTGT's for customers, and have had no trouble with clutch bearings. Bushings will not live in the clutch bell.

Rotor

[Rotorranch]

Cucountry.....I use all the stock parts on the FTGT's I prep here. The aftermarket aluminum arms are heavier than the stock parts, increasing the unsprung weight of the suspension, thus making the suspension work harder. Not a good thing!

The aftermarket aluminum stuff is pretty, but for racing purposes, the stock Associated stuff is hard to beat.

Rotor

[KC10Chief]

I love my GT, you may also have a worn down clutch nut shaft. Especially if you were running bushings on it. I would suggest going out and just buying a new clutch nut, and clutch and shoes if you can afford it. Check your gear mesh and make sure it isn't too tight. Matt

[gtwolfpack]

Has anyone used the following optional chassis for GT from HG?

<img src=http://www.1hg.com/images/3040.jpg>

I don't have any problem with my original one-piece chassis, but, I think i will upgrade to an optional chassis when the original one gets scratched, tweaked or beaten to a point where I have to replace it....;)

I guess the chassis must be a new release, cause last time I checked the HG site, it wasn't there.

[kkd]

Hey all...

I put that OS CVR in the GT and broke it in last week (was going to go in the 4-tec, but too much of a hassle)....

Anyways, with a 22 clutchbell, 60 T spur......(drum roll please....

it hit 43 mph...... Yeeeeehaww.....

I even think it'll go a little faster once the engines fully broken in, maybe another dozen tanks or so.......

Gotta love that radar gun....LOL...


sees ya....

[atm92484_3]

Thats all you were getting? Well I guess since its not broken in that doesn't help. Once its broken in and tuned be prepared to break 50 mph.

[Mrzoidburg]

Originally posted by Mrzoidburg
While were on the subject of clutch bearings, i checked mine out on the weekend and the clips that hold the inner sheild have come out so the sheild is floating loosley in there. Is there a bearing upgrade for these?
On my NMT i took out the needle bearing and put in 4 x roller bearings. Is there a similar conversion?

Can i just put in 4 x 3/16 x 5/16 bearings or are the stock 2 x flanged bearings the best set-up?

Thanks
:)


ps, round 1 of a 3 round trophy event at my club this Sunday, i intend on getting a podium finnish! ;)

[digitizer]

how do I find the first thread of this forum? Im sure this is an obvious answer butI cant seem to find it.
TIA

[atm92484_3]

I'm pretty sure it was deleted because it was messed up. Try a search just to make sure.

Mr Z, I've had the sheilds come off before and I just try to posistion the bearing so the unshieled side is inclosed in the piece but this isn't possible with the clutch bearing. I'd just order another set and have them on hand and just replace them whenever they fail or you feel they need replaced, since you race and a blow bearing would be bad. You couldp't put a normal 3/16" x 5/16" in there because the 5/16" is the size of the flange, not the part that actually goes into the piece. If you wanted to try this, put a flanged bearing on both ends then find a 3/16" x ???" unflanged bearing and put them in the middle. Without the flanged bearings, the clutchbell would float around on the unflanged bearings and possibly come off.

<marquee>jmo</marquee>

[Mrzoidburg]

I've got some flanged bearings coming today that I sourced from a local bearing store so they are bound to be top quality. I'll replace them and keep the old ones for spare.
Thanks for the help.
:)

MrZ

[TRXboy]

Hehe i just read the new Nitro with the Nat's in it...Hmm GT took top 3 places...*Already perdicts New RC10GT add*

[TycoTeamDriver1]

well i have a like so here for the old rc10gt forum here (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35995&highlight=Associated+RC10GT+forum)

[TycoTeamDriver1]

I like the look of the HG chassis but i dont think its a must have.

[KC10Chief]

The local weatherman has been on the news all night. There's tornado's all over the state and it looks as if they will be arriving in my area shortly. Already seeing lightning and hearing the thunder. I already put my GT in the closet. Hope there's enough room for my wife too. Matt

[ritchies rc10gt]

i hope you will be ok matt.and good luck.


well i think im giving up on this hobby.i mought a new engine for my gt and i cant get it to stay running or run cool.i replaced the fuel tank,fuel lines,exhaust coppler,header gasket,tried different carbs.sealed the carb and back plate with RTV,i even tried a thicker O-ring on the carb and backplate.nothing worked.my header came loose yesterday but i fixed that.i just cant figure it out.if i get it to stay running and run good it overheats if i get it to run cool it wont stay running.i got so mad at it this morning i threw it on the ground as hard as i could throw it.i broke the rear arm mount screws,upper allot shock mount.and rear hub.when i got home i was still mad and kicked it across my bedroom and broke the brand new fuel tank.i have no patience with stuff that wont work right.so i think i may give up on it and stick with the real cars

[wojo65]

has anyone used the kysho reciever box? i bought one i will tell ya'll how it works its looks nice in the pics.

[Mrzoidburg]

Where are the pics? I'd be interested in one.
MrZ

[ritchies rc10gt]

as i said in my post above my engine just wont run right.here s the engine,ofna factory force .15S PRO with boost bottle.now heres a question i just thought of.do you think my problem may be caused by the boost bottle?i do have it hooked up.the line goes from the engine all the way up to the front shock tower where the bottle is mounted.could the line be too long?or could the bottle be junk?

[Railman]

I know Tyco posted a link for the old 3,500 post GT thread, but I thought I'd shed a little light on how to find old threads. You just need to reset the "days past" box at the bottom of the vehicles page to a higher value. At the present time you need to set it at 60 days for the old GT thread because the last post was 8-14-01. I actually thought the thread was deleted myself...went into a panic & posted my concerns over it before I realized that it just got bumped to the 2nd page. That was embarassing to say the least. :o My days past setting was at 20 days, & at 21 days it just dissapeared! By the way do you guys realize that we've past all but one of the current threads again? Impressive! :cool: :D
Joe

Matt: Good luck with the storm. My prayers & thoughts are with you.

[ilovemygt]

ritchies rc10gt ive been where you are i was ready to throw my gt in the garbage can but i stoped my self and let it set for 2 weeks and came back to it ready to play with it again i have to do that every once in a while so i dont get sick of rc

[atm92484_3]

Wojo, try this:

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I finally got pics of my radio box.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/028/Xw/Dn/rK/sP54980.jpg
http://wsphotofews.excite.com/032/Mp/Wb/5Q/rD62155.jpg

Its a Traxxas radio box for the T-Maxx. All I did was I took the stock radio plate, cut the antenna mount off. Then with servo tape, I attached it to the T-Maxx radio box (making sure it didn't hit the fuel tank or anything), and drilled some holes for screws. Then i screwed the stock plate and the T-Maxx box together and mounted them. It seems to work pretty well. What do you guys think?

Its part number 4924.

[digitizer]

'preciate that link info... lots more reading to do... trying to rtfm so to speak before i unload with the questions Great to be back in the sport after 11ish years off! Things have come a long way since my gold tub RC10 and a optima mid I believe it was.
Thanks Il be back soon

[cucountry]

Who makes a good set of threaded shocks for the gt. Something that could be raced with.

[Spinner2]

cucountry I know a guy that uses Losi xxxnt threaded shocks on his GT....... they are much smoother than GT shocks, and they are cheaper then any after-market stuff, try using some of them:D

[cucountry]

I was wondering if i could use the Losi's shocks. Thanks for the info.:D

[wojo65]

kysho reviever box (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?Q=1&I=LXU901)


i think it looks like it will work, its only 4 box so if its crap i wouldnt have wasted my money iit looks like it will work though

[Gokou]

Why do you want threaded shock bodies, anyways? The associated shocks are the best shocks that I have ever used for 1/10 scales. If you don't like the plastic clips for adjusting preload, get the HG spring clamps. Also, running Losi shocks means you can't run Progressive Piggybacks, which means you are missing out. If you want threaded body associated shocks, GPM makes some, but keep in mind they aren't hard anodized/teflon coated (as the AE shocks are) which means they won't be as smooth and they will also wear faster.

Concerning the earlier posts about hop-ups, I have another highly recommended one: the Ofna throttle/brake linkage. It is much smoother and almost slop-free, compared to the so-so loosey-goosey stock setup. The part number is 10724. Here is a pic of it installed on my GT.

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/linkage.jpg

Also, since there is some discussion about receiver protection, I offer for your review my current setup: an HPI receiver cover combined with a carbon fiber plate, which protects both the receiver and the throttle servo. The plate easily mounts to the two holes on the side of the stock AE throttle servo mounts. Those people running high-dollar throttle servos should give this some thought-- in fact, everyone should. I have seen numerous GT's lose their throttle servos from hard side impacts.

http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/receiver_protector.jpg

[cucountry]

I like the associated shocks, just not the spring clips. I was considering the HG clamp, but i dont know anyone who has used one so im not for sure how good they are. I like the piggybacks but ive been told that i dont really need them for racing.

[wojo65]

hey goku~
can i uh borrow your car for uh testing purposes?? I will uh return it um in alittle while i promise :p

[Gokou]

CuCountry: actually I'd say just the opposite. You don't need the piggybacks for bashing, but I highly recommend them for racing. Shock action, especially during a long main, remains much more consistent and smooth with the piggybacks-- that is where they shine.

The HG spring clamps work great-- they are fairly light and hold tight-- I've never had one slip. BTW, I have more pics of my truck HERE (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_pics/) if you want to take a look at the stuff I've done. Some of the stuff I've put on the truck (namely the RPM arms) I've done purely for bashing durability. I actually put the stock arms back on the truck when I race because they are much stiffer than the RPM arms and give a little more predictable handling. It's hard to beat the RPM arms for bashing though.

And wojo-- sure, for a modest rental fee you can test drive it. :D I have footage of test drives actually... look HERE (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/gt_vids/).

[cucountry]

I love that truck dude. I will go the the HG clamps then because i really like the way the piggybacks work on my basher so i wanted to have a pair on my racer too. I like the ofna linkage too, that will be one of my next purchases.

[Rotorranch]

atm.....that is notcorrect. The size refers to the bearing diameter, not inclusive of the flange!

MrZ, adding a third bearing might be a good idea. My Kyosho cars all use a 3 bearing set up. If I was buying bearings from the local bearing house, I would look into getting the rubber sealed bearings. They should live longer than the metal shielded bearings.

Rotor

[wojo65]

Goku hwo about a list of hop ups of your truck heres mine:
MY FACTORY TEAM GT AND ITS HOP UPS:
Robinson racing products spur and clutch bell
alum. extended rear tranny case*
piggy back shocks
kimbrough large servo saver
MIP super diff. rebuild
MIP thrust rebuild
MIP 0 maintenance steering
GPM alum. tranny case
70 weight shock oil
futuba s9303 all around
picco.12 slide carb rear exhaust
CVEC pipe
motor savers air filter
MIP 4-n-1 clutch
trinity 1100 mah metal hydride receiver hump pack
JR XR2 radio system
ofna 1/8 starter box
MIP light fly wheel*
speed hawgs (4)
4 chrome claws rims
the things with stars next to them i will have friday because thats when they get to ym house :D
but overall my truck is pretty nice is looks trick my the GPM arms but they bend so i dont use um, but i will bash with um maybe!

[Mrzoidburg]

I might measure up the new bearings and see what kind of space i will have left between the 2. I'll let you know if a 3rd bearing will fit.

[atm92484_3]

Rotor, ya I know so thats why you'd need to get the dimensions for the smaller part of the flanged bearing if you wanted to get unflanged ones.

[TRXboy]

Hey Gokou ill drive your truck....:D

Question- Engines an O.S CV-R with slide carb, problem is there is a huge lag, almost like a bog when i clamp the thotel then BOOM(!!!)power and the thing flips on its lid, which way do i tune it out.

[Spinner2]

rotor i wouldnt use the rubber bearings, they will build up more heat than the metal bearings, and the rubber can melt out of them and cause much harm to your clutch..... metal shielded bearings are included with the truck for the clutch for a REASON

[Mrzoidburg]

So then can i assuem that nobody upgrades the bearings in the FTGT?
So how it comes is the best set-up? ie 2 x flanged bearings?
:confused:
MrZ

[atm92484_3]

Mr. Z, I don't think anyone has tried it. I don't know about the rest here but I've only blown maybe 2 bearings in the 2 years since I first bought my GT. Both of those times were because they seals went and dirt caused the bearing to fail.

If you want to try putting a third bearing in there, you are going to need 3/16"x5/16" unflanged bearings.

Rotor, you were right about that bearing measurement. My bad? :p

[Mrzoidburg]

I think i'll wait and see how these new bearings go. I just got em', so i'll put em in for this Sundays meeting
thanks
:)
MrZ

[mississippi]

thinking of getting a GT..........

i am now thinking of purchasing a Factory team GT. i have a t-maxx but am now selling it due to prolonged pullstart problems. now i want to use a starter box.

I had a HPI/Nova Evolution II in it so i think i am pretty good at tuning:D but i think i am going to start with an os .12 cv so that i can get the feel of the truck.

so do you think the GT would be good for me? i like to jump but nothing crazy, and i dont abuse my trucks. i have read all of this forum and the 1st GT forum so i would know a little about it.

are there any weaknesses to this tuuck *dont lie just because you have it*:p i need the truth so that i will be able to keep those parts handy.

any building hints/tips/or tricks?

thanks for any information you may be able to provide me with.

[kaiserscosie]

If i had to choose between all of my RC's and was forced to pick one i would take my GT over them all (e-maxx,rc10t3,rc10t,stampede,tlo1,nitro demon,) Its' that good. It is probably the best all around truck out there. It can run on the street, in the dirt, and on a track. It is just a fun and durable truck. Plus it has a ton of upgrades that you can do to it. It can accept pretty much any .12 or.15 engine and comes with one of the best pipes in RC. I love mine. It is just my choice though. Many people swear by Losi, HPI, and others but the GT is right for me.

[Rotorranch]

atm....no prob dude...just tryin' to help!

Rotor

[GTracer22]

hey guys my truck runs fine for about 3 minutes and then when i let off the throttle it dies! It starts right back up but then it does it again.So does any1 know what is wrong?:mad:

[Rotorranch]

Hey Spinner........I think(JMHO) that the rubber sealed bearings will live in a clutch on an FTGT. If you are making enough heat to melt the rubber seal, you have not got the clutch set right. I run rubber sealed bearings in my 1/8 scale cars clutches with no problems. But I might just be lucky.

Rotor

[KC10Chief]

Mississippi, I got back into RC cars the same way you did. I had an electric buggy years ago, and then got into RC planes. All my planes have nitro engines so when I wanted to get back into RC cars, I wanted a nitro vehicle. The T-Maxx seemed to be the most popular thing at the time so I bought it. It has been nothing but a constant nightmare. That engine that comes with it is JUNK. I put a .21 on it and spent way too much money on that piece of junk. It's a blast to drive when it works. I was totally fed up with it and was about to give up on RC cars thinking they were all the nightmare that the T-Maxx can be. Then I went nuts and ordered a FTGT with an OS .12 CV from tower hobbies. I got the pull start version and ordered a starter box from them too. After I ordered it, I regretted it the next few days thinking why did I order another piece of junk? But my mind changed real quickly when I got the kit. I could tell right away that it was a much higher quality than my T-Maxx was. I had a blast putting it together, and with that OS engine, it was the perfect performer. It also RARELY breaks down unlike my junk maxx. If I did the stuff with my Maxx that I do with my GT, it would be in a million pieces by now. The GT is SO much more fun and way easier to drive. With the Factory Team kit, you don't have to upgrade a thing really. I've put a Mugen engine in mine since I bought it and then I put the carbeurator from my OS on the Mugen and it screams! I race it every weekend and it's really dependable. I can always count on my GT to finish the race. I love this truck and I think this is one of the best purchases I have ever made in my life. My wife likes it too since I go out and race on Saturday nights and not out boozing. If you get a GT, I guarantee you that you won't regret it. Even the RTR kit is great. You can race it just as well as the Factory Team kit. The Associated engine is WAY better than that junky Traxxas .15. With my T-Maxx, I bloodied my knuckles and bruised my fingers so badly that I couldn't pull start it for a week. I must have pulled that d*mn string 100,000 times. My T-Maxx is broken right now. Don't know what's wrong with it. Haven't touched it in a month. When you get your GT, you will never want to see that infernal T-Maxx again. Matt

[Rotorranch]

Mississippi......the only thing I've found on the GTs is watch the chassis screws. I check them every run on my customers race trucks. All the chassis screws are prone to loosen. I usually use the next length screw for the bulkheads and suspension ounts, just to be on the safe side.

Rotor

[KC10Chief]

GT Racer, could be several things. If you've run a couple gallons or more through your engine, it may be time for a new piston and sleeve. This is what happened to my OS after about the third gallon. Break it in properly. Did you try turning in the idle screw a little bit? I'm sure somebody else will know more about this and could help. A little more details from you would help as well. What kind of engine is it, how much fuel have you put through it, what have you tried, etc. You could also have a clutch bearing that's failing. I had this problem last month and thought my motor was shot. Turns out that it was just a clutch bearing. Good luck! Matt

[GTracer22]

I allready changed the clutch bearings and that wasnt the problem and it idles good at first then after abut 3 minutes it dies
when i let off the throttle. It is an os cv-r and it has had about a gallon and a half ran through it and it still has good compression. I think it might be overheating. what do you think?

[KC10Chief]

GT Racer, sounds like it may just be getting worn out to me. My OS still felt like it had good compression to me too, but a piston and sleeve fixed the problem. Sounds like it's losing compression when it gets hot. That's a sign that your piston and sleeve is bad. Matt

[KC10Chief]

RotorRanch, I noticed the same thing about the Chassis screws loosening a lot, especially the ones that held the rear arms on. I'd have to tighten them after every race. Finally, I used locktite on any screw that screwed into metal like on the motor mount, and for the screws that go into the plastic parts like on the arms, I used some RTV sealant that you get at an auto store. It doesn't tear up the plastic like locktite will. I have yet to have a screw come out. I check em after every race and they're all in tight! Try some RTV sealant. Put it in and let it sit overnight before you run your truck. Matt

[GTracer22]

Im gonna try messing with the neddles for a bit and if that doesnt work ill get me one of them there piston and sleeve dooo-hickies>

[Gokou]

Nick--

Your bog could either mean the engine is too rich, or too lean. It's hard to say without hearing and seeing your truck. A rich bog will make the engine blurble for a moment before spooling up, and a lean bog will make the engine almost totally cut out before spooling up. Try setting the carb back to the recommended settings and work from there. A bog can also be caused by out of balance needles, such as having the low end too lean and the high end too rich. If you have a slide carb, it could be the mid needle, but those are preset at the factory and you shouldn't have to mess with it, ever.

Wojo-- Since you asked, here's a list of stuff on my GT.

-Modded Mugen MT-12 engine (RB X-12 is on in the pics)
-Serpent mega pipe, CVEC pipe, or associated pipe depending on how I feel that day.
-Airtronics M8 radio, 94358 steering servo, 94357 throttle servo, 92836 receiver
-MIP 0-maintenance steering
-MIP blue shock o-rings
-MIP diff rebuild kit
-MIP shiny CVDs
-MIP lightweight flywheel
-MIP 4-n-1 clutch
-RPM front/rear a-arms
-RPM front/rear body mounts
-RPM steering servo mounts
-RPM rod ends
-RPM 0-degree rear arm mounts
-Trinity aluminum/delrin upper shock mounts
-Trinity tranny brace
-HG spring clamps
-HG rear bulkhead
-HG lower rear shock mounts
-Ofna throttle linkage
-Ofna blue cone washers
-Full stainless screws
-Progressive suspension piggybacks
-GS racing graphite boost bottle (just for looks, removed for racing)
-GS racing exhaust coupler
-Mugen pipe mount
-Robinson racing machined spur
-Robinson hardened clutch bell
-Robinson titanium ball studs
-Kimbrough large HD servo saver (VERY stiff)

Custom bits:
Graphite receiver/servo protector
Graphite servo riser (so servosaver clears)
Graphite brake disk

Other misc stuff:
Pro-line lightweight wheels and road rage tires (balanced)
Pro-line Chevy Silverado body

[GTracer22]

So did you make the graphite reciever/servo proctector?

[mississippi]

thanks for the info guys!

hows this for a starter box?
StarterBox (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/146052.htm)

[Gokou]

GTracer: Yes, I made the graphite bits myself. I usually cut it using a dremel (wear a respirator when you cut graphite!) then polish and rounded the edges so I won't cut myself on it. I work at an Aerospace company, and as such I have more graphite laying around the house than I'll ever need. Yesterday I laid up another 4-ply 4'x8' (feet, not inches) to match my 2-ply 4'x8' sheet I already have, plus tons and tons of other smaller pieces. I have lots of smaller panels (mostly 2'x2' or so) made with differing weaves and resin systems so I have some variety to choose from. Some high rigidity, some flexible, high temp, etc. Remember, you can never have too much of the stuff around. ;)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Anybody realise that the second GT forum has now passed up the one and only XXXNT forum in posts? Whew, party.

Mark O.

[Rotorranch]

KC.........I have started using a drop of medium CA in the screw hole before I assemble the trucks. I wipe it around the hole with a pin, and let it [i]almost[/] dry before I assemble it. The last 2 times they've been run, we've not lost any screws. I have also started replacing the screws with a little longer ones than stock. I think the little bit of added weight is more than offset by the added reliability.

BTW, I can still unscrew the screws when necessary. And the plastic parts are new, not worn out beaters.

Rotor

[crawfordna]

What do you guys think?

Factory Team kit is coming ...

Using Hitec 625MG Hi torque/hi speed servos (nothing top notch but really good for the price, so far).

AE .15 engine that came with my RTR (only has about 1/4 of a gallon of gas through it so far, and it's legal at the track I race at ;)

M8 Radio system with ABS

MIP 4-n-1 clutch
MIP 0 Maintenance Steering
Kimbrough Servo Saver
MIP Super Diff Rebuild
MIP Thrust Rebuild Kit
MIP 4-N-1 Clutch
Ofna Servo Linkage
RPM Slingshot wheels all around (chromed)

Think I'll have a chance at winning some races next season?

[atm92484_3]

That sounds pretty good. I wouldn't have gotten the zero maintaince steering but it sounds like the people who use it like it.

GTman, how many times have we done that? 2? 3? 4? Its actually sort of funny because we've done it so many times over and over again.

[poopie]

Gokou, you think you can sell me a few bits of carbon fiber? online stores charge so much and i cannot fnd it localy. just let me know what sizes nd thickness you have that you are willing to sell. or i got plenty of GT spares if you want/need a part the i can trade. e-mail me a bi6bowlofrice@aol.com.

[ChrisK]

Thanks to all on this board from a long-time lurker.

Your info and insight led me to choose an RC10GT as my first nitro (graduating from a Mini-Z).

I picked up a used Factory Team from a friend. It has an OS .12 and some good hopups, but no instructions for the engine.

I have what is probably two basic questions for you all, and I'd appreciate some direction.

First, does anyone have the factory settings for the carb needles for the OS .12? I did manage to get my truck started, but I'd like to check.

Second, when I do get the truck started on the starter box, the wheels turn pretty fast, even when I lower the idle. When I put the truck on the ground, it starts rolling. Fine for starting to bash around, but when I put on the brake, the engine quits!

Is this a tuning error or is something else (like the clutch) wrong?

Thanks in advance for your help to this rookie!

[GTracer22]

Id also like to buy some from you.

e mail memy email (punksk8boarder22@aol.com)

[poopie]

chrisk, screw in your idle screw on the carb and that should fix it.

[TRXboy]

Thanks gokou-got it workin good...

i noticed you have the HG Bulkheads...How rigid is the rear of your chassis now eh? Mine wont flex for anything

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

i was runin my gt today and i wasnt having fun too much ish was going wronge. i have the motor would run ok but it wouldnt produce full power i have the high end at a lil less than 2 may be 1 7/8. after i shut it down it took like 30-40 pulls to get it started if not more. any one have any ideas of why i am having this problem. the plug is fine the low end seems good. also my rear right shock keeps leakin all the oil out and dont know why. any ideas Help me thanks

[Gokou]

With the HG bulkhead and trinity chassis brace, the chassis is now very stiff in the back. It does however flex behind the front nose braces and in front of the motor mount, as all GTs do.


As far as the graphite goes: I don't have much really pretty stuff; my large sheets were ran with cauls one side only which means one side is smooth and semi-glossy while the other side is rough and dull. If you can wait a few weeks, there is some stuff that is near end of shelf life and I can round up some stainless sheets and make some pieces that are nice and shiny and smooth on both sides. I'll let you know when I get the new stuff made; the weave is a very nice square weave with a clear resin system, which makes very nice looking stuff. Then I'll be willing to sell pieces at a very reasonable cost (I'm not looking to make money off the stuff).

[cucountry]

hey GoKu, have you seen that new chassis from HG. from what i can tell it looks like they have built a chassis that should stop most of the flexing. I dont know anyone who has one yet but im thinking about getting one. But the pic on their website looks pretty sweet. It might be a little heavier but it looks stiff as hell. My only concern is whether it is countersunk or not. It doesnt say so i think i will drop them an email.

[atm92484_3]

Ok guys I'm getting really sick of this crap. I've been extremely busy with AP classes this year (plus its my junior year and I want to get into a good school), and I haven't had time to run my GT in like a month. Finally I have some free time tonight but its raining. :mad:

Cucountry, there are no chassis flex problems on the GT really-atleast none to make you get replace the Team/FT plate chassis. That HG chassis looks nice but I'd stay stock. That flex Gokou was talking about is just the area right infront of the fuel tank. Its probably the weakest point on the chassis but its still not flexible enough to merit spending the money that chassis probably costs.

<marquee>jmo</marquee>

[KC10Chief]

Have you guys seen those stickers that you will see on say a Chevy truck, and it has a guy taking a leak on a Ford logo or vice versa? Do you know if they make a smaller version of that with the guy peeing on a Team Losi logo? Thanks for any info! Matt

[GTracer22]

Hey Gokou how much would want for one of those graphite reciever/servo protectors? Do you think you could make me some other stuff?

[TRXboy]

Gokou-thats also a commen spot for the GT chassis to bend, after the nose and before the Engine mount, I think i might give the hardcore chassis a shot, after seeing my friend XNT i want a supper rigid chassis (The weight would help handeling as well)

Also, you work with carbon fiber..Why not desgin an upper deck type system for the stock GT chassis....i would buy one...

[Gokou]

Nick-- a graphite upper deck is near the top of my list on stuff to make for my GT. The only sticking points are how to tie it into the front and rear bulkheads; I haven't found a way to do it yet that is to my satisfaction. Making the standoffs and deck itself is an easy task, but tying it into the bulkheads is a harder task than I originally thought, especially the rear-- the motor and spur gear/brake assembly really get in the way! The front is pretty simple-- I was either going to tie it into the nose braces or right to the front shock tower. Perhaps if I get one of the trinity rear stiffeners/motor mounts I wouldn't have to continue the upper deck all the way to the rear bulkhead-- going as far as the motor might be enough.

GTracer: I would be willing to make the protector, but I really don't have time at the moment. I've been working 10-12 hour days and weekends for the last few months, and it's going to stay that way for at least another 2 months. I really don't have the free time at the moment to do much more than eat and sleep and pay bills and the like when I get home. Heck, only chance I get to check this forum is at lunch and right before bed. Getting to work at 5:30am on weekends is a pain in the booty. Especially when you're salaried and don't get paid for overtime :mad:

[TRXboy]

hmm i see your point, never really thought about conecting it to the rear bulk tho, what about having stand off's and conect it to the throtel servo mounts. The front needs to be more rigid, not to many problems with the rear end.

[chrisXXXT]

Hi yall I have a friend that had a Associated RC10GT and I am trying to help him out. What is the best way to stap your batteries in or do they have a after market part he can get like a box that with the losi. I drive a losi but I will help who every needs it to have more racing.
Thanks

[Mark Blackburn]

Originally posted by Simbad


I have been using a OS hyper.12 and have had a lot of luck with it so far!. All I have to do now is keep it on the track:D .

Pat.

Hey Pat, LOL maybe a carb restricter will slow you down enough to help keep you out of the neighbors yard!!!! LOL AND OFF YOUR ROOF! Mark
What's up with the time? It is 8:05am
Saturday 10/13/01

[Big Wig]

Hi everyone!

I'm running a .15cvx with an Odonell head in my GT. I am using the pull start flywheel and I was wondering if lightening the flywheel will give me better low end throttle response?

I was thinking of putting 3 or 4, 3/32" wide slots around the diameter of the flywheel with enough space in between for strength.

I ran my GT on a big, awesome track with a very long straight away the other night and I can't believe the awesome performance of my truck! It was really screaming:D My track, on the other hand is a lot smaller and now that i'm used to what this engine can do when kept in a higher RPM range, I want that kind of power all the time. I like my gearing how it is I just need a tad more snap... when I was running my Nitro Star .15SS in the GT it had that great "off idle" yank I'm looking for.

what do you think?

thanks
Jay

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Big Wig, I wouldn't mess with the flywheel if were you. If there's just barely a difference in the weight of the sections of the flywheel, you can warp your crankshaft. You might want to try the MIP lightweight flywheel to get the throttle to be snappier off the line. You might also want to try fooling around with the low end needle for some more power.

Gokou, how about connecting the front of the deck to the screws right beneath the body mounts, and connecting the rear of the deck to the transmission brace?

Mark O.

[Big Wig]

Rc1oGtMaN,

Thanks for the reply... when you say:

If there's just barely a difference in the weight of the sections of the flywheel, you can warp your crankshaft.

do you mean the possibility of the flywheel being off balance? If so, that's no problem... I'll indicate the mounting surface of the flywheel and the slots will be identical and evenly spaced... see attached pic of my machine.

So will the amount of material I plan to remove make a noticable difference in the power delivery of my engine?

thanks
Jay

[GTracer22]

Hey chrisxxt just make sure he zip ties them down really good and they shouldnt fall out.

[atm92484_3]

Chris, I do the same thing GTracer does. Tell your friend to go to the local hardware store and for about $5 you can get like 100 zip ties. Its inexpensive and it keeps the packs in there. Anytime I replace the batteries now, I just put a new ziptie on, just to make sure that pack doesn't come off.

[GTracer22]

Hey Gokou let me know when you get around to makin the reciever protector.:D

[Gokou]

Big Wig... I could sure use a Haas at my house. Wanna ship it to me? :D We just got a new machine here at work-- a Fadal 8030 (80"x30") with a TriTech 5-axis head... let's just say I am planning a few fun little side projects once it gets laser'd in :)

And yes, lightening your flywheel will make a big difference. Keep in mind that these little engines don't have a ton of torque, and to deliver power they must rev. Removing weight from the flywheel allows it to rev much quicker. Even though there is only a minimal difference in weight between my stock AE flywheel and my MIP light flywheel, the difference it makes is dramatic. A heavier flywheel gives the truck much smoother power delivery compared to the light flywheels which are much more peaky and demand a little smoother trigger finger. It will give you faster throttle response at the expense of low-end torque-- the light flywheel doesn't store as much energy as a heavier flywheel will.

[mississippi]

will this receiver pack fit in the battery box of a FTGT?

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/036/D1/nw/Vt/jM85862.jpg
http://wsphotofews.excite.com/037/oJ/GT/Ja/oZ61453.jpg

[atm92484_3]

Yes it will fit. Since there isn't a box or anything, you can strap almost any pack onto the GT.

I can't tell though but that looks like its only a 3 cell pack (3.6v). You need 6v for the radio to run properly (servo speed, range, torque of servos).

<marquee>jmo</marquee>

[mississippi]

thanks

and that is a 5 cell 6volt 1600mah pack. nothing wimpy here:)

[Railman]

Big Whig, I wouldn't worry too much about the balance issue. Most flywheels wear only on 1 side... the side that drives the engine through the comression stroke. This wear is all the way on the outside extreme of the flywheel too. Even so it doesn't seem to make a noticable differance. I drilled my sons' 1st GT (pullstart) with the holes on an angle, to assist cooling the engine. I did this on a radial drill. This was way before vented flywheels were available on the market. Anyway, a lot of people do all sorts of things to the crank & rod. I don't think a slight mismatch on the flywheel holes would be a problem unless it's severe. Looks like you got the accuracy thing covered though! The biggest problem's with a lighter flywheel are what Goku said.
However I don't think that a light flywheel reduces low end torque so much as it makes a low idle less stable & easier to stall. Without a doubt, it will spin up faster though because it uses less hp to increase the motor rpm. Just my $.02
Joe

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Railman, are sure about that? Some guys at my track lightened their flywheels about a year ago, and two of the three warped their cranks.

Big Wig, can I come over?

[TEAMTED]

does anyone want to buy my really hopped up gt?? It has RPM ball bearings(better than stock associated), RPM blue front bumper, MIP 4-1n-1 clutch, MIP zero-maintenance-steering, TEAM TRINITY/KINWALD blue anodized rear shocktower, Hammad Ghuman shock clips. OS .12 cvx with brand new odonnel head, hitec lynx radio with high-speed .10 second steering servo. This is the "team edition" truck. It cost me over 600 new. I would also consider trades for 1/8th on or off road. E-mail me if you are intereseted. DO NOT USE THE E-MAIL IN MY PROFILE!!! IT IS OLD!!! My new e-mail is:

teddypan@mediaone.net

[Railman]

GTMan, Warped? I seriously doubt it. I could believe that it might cause the bearings to fail prematurly, but I honestly don't see how lightening the flywheel could warp the crank. There are much bigger loads on the crank from the normal firing, & starting procedures. Just think about what forces are involved when an engine is hydrolocked. Based on my experience with drilling flywheels, turboing cranks, & lightening rods....I'm sorry, but I just can't buy it. ;)
Joe

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Hmmm. You know Joe, I think you're right. Maybe they thought that the crankshaft fouled the bearings or something. They did note that the bearings were gone after running for about two weeks. Think I'll go drill out my flywheel.;)

Mark O.

[Big Wig]

thanks to everyone for your replies!

I think I'll lighten one flywheel and keep a stock one in the box too,.. this way I can experiment a bit.

Gokou,

Fadal makes a decent machine... the big ones are nice. Their smaller VMC's are steel instead of cast iron and vibration dampening is non existant... can you say "squeal like a stuck pig?" LOL I've run almost every VMC made at some time or another ;-) it's cool having a 16 x 30 HAAS in my basement (real close to my pit area LOL)

Rc1oGtMaN, weren't you moving to Boston? If so, that would be a 45 minute drive to my shop! Sure you can come over!

regards
Jay

[TRXboy]

Hey guys, just wanted to show you how effective that battery box mod that i did was, havent really done dusty driving so i couldent test it out..i tested it today tho:)

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=TRXboy&album_id=29532&image_id=16&show=image&param=89644

enjoy...Gokou- seriusly dude if you come out with a carbon fiber upper deck Drop me and E-mail i want one!

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Big Wig, I might move up there. Where y'at? It's changed from about a 20% chance of me moving to about a 40-50% chance of me coming up there. Man, I'll miss New Orleans soooo much. It would be a huge career move for my papa, so he really wants to go.

Nick, I've said it before, and I'll say it again: You are an ANIMAL!
I still have yet to try out that TRX battery box mod.

Gokou, I think I'd pay for an upper deck system also. Post some more info about it, please

Mark O.

[Jwelch]

Mark, it was Medfield, right?

Nick, if you check RCNitro, I think your question about stripped rims made it in. Are you from Ithica? Some guy named Nick from NY had a question about RC10GT rims getting mangled, so I guessed it was you.


-John

[Jwelch]

Oh, and Mark, GPM makes an upper deck that can fit a 125cc fuel tank. www.gpmracing.com They're in Nashua NH which is about an hour from me.

[Jwelch]

Here it is

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Yeah, John it's Medfield. Thanks for the link to the GPM deck. I'll check it out, but I don't really like them too much. IMHO, they are a bit pricey, and their parts aren't made of a very high grade aluminum - they do look killer though.

Mark O.

[Big Wig]

Rc1oGtMaN,

I'm in Sandown NH... in the sticks LOL

I do have a backyard track though ;)

[TRXboy]

Jwelch - Im on long island, but the funny/intresting thing is On the MaxxTraxx board the Artist asked any RC10GT owner to take a picture on how the wheel is mounted, Took the pic...Never knew he coppied it in that much detail.

[ritchies rc10gt]

what other fuel tank will fit the gt without modifying it?will that ofna tank fit right on?

[atm92484_3]

Ritchies, I don't know of any other tanks, but I'm pretty sure as long as the Ofna tank has holes for screws on the underside of the tank (aka it doesn't mount to an upperdeck or anything like that), you could probably just drill 2 or 3 new holes in the chassis for it.

Mississippi, I was pretty sure you knew that about it needing to be 6v but I just wanted to make sure.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

I believe that the OFNA mounts to an upper deck, and there aren't any other tanks that fit w/o mods.

You really don't even need a 6v, as the servos work on 4.8v also. For optimum performance, you need 6v though.

Mark O.

[OmegaTrac]

Hey all,
Well yesterday was my first entire race. Well I got to the track earlier for some practice, and my GT was really dialed in. So then into the first qualifing heat I place second overall. In the next qualifing run I came third. Together these two runs put me into the A Main! Well when the Main started, I got dusted out of the line but caught up fairly quickly. Then when I took a jump to pass two Stampede's I landed hard on the left-front tire breaking the plastic tie-rod end. At first I did not notice the problem until I went to turn to make a jump it just keep going straight. So I hit the fence and broke the throttle return spring. So my A Main run was done for and I hadnt even finished a lap :(


How much do tie rods and a throttle return spring cost?

Well there is always next week.

--OmegaTrac

[atm92484_3]

.

[Jwelch]

yea, Mark, GPM makes some purdy stuff, but they're as stiff as a warm twizzler....

[TRXboy]

I had GPM stuff...cracked there hubs and bulk...went HG...No problems as of yet(Did tweak there Bulk tho)

Edit

I dont even want to know...

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=TRXboy&album_id=29532&image_id=17&show=image&param=95035

[OmegaTrac]

hmmmm....
Would someone like to answer my question?

[ttweedle]

Omega try your local hobby store, if they don't have it any one of the many online hobby stores will have what you need...Try towerHobbies online they have a section for just stock replacement parts, seperated by actual kits ie...RC10GT, etc... Check there and you will find everything plus some stuff you didn't know you wanted...


"Sometimes Slower is Faster"

[wojo65]

I have the alum. tranny case, i like it, theres alil bit of better performance with the bearing and trans being alittle more smoothe, i like it.

[Jwelch]

omega, knowing this hobby, it could cost a cool million.... :rolleyes:

[Jwelch]

nick! is that shiznit on the chassis! hahahahahah!