Associated RC10GT Forum v4.0

[ritchies rc10gt]

did you get a new collet and spacer set?you need a new collet and 2 washers.if you have the 2 washers you may need to cut a tiny bit more off of your crank

[Austin GT]

I obviously haven't prept a new engine for my GT(i only have 1 other engine) but I can tune farely well. I just didn't want to have to go back to lhs before I tune and practice.(this is our triple jump;coming left to right, on the back stretch,it stands over 3 ft and kicks ya like a mule:eek: I already need new shocks!:p Hey ritchie!I do have 2 washers and collet, clutch nut in check so ya think I need to cut more off crank. I think so too but i'm going to consult 1 of these guys at lhs before i make an expensive mistake.Thanks!

[earnhardtjr]

ritchies rc10gt why two spacers? I just looked in the manual and it calls for only 1 spacer unless you are using a Dynamit engine. I just wanted to make sure I did not miss something. I still have time to correct my mistake if I did. It's been raining and I have not cycled my engine yet.

thanks
Guy

[ritchies rc10gt]

i looked in the manual the other day and it showed 2 spacers.i had my LHS order them so people could get them if needed.im running 2 spacers on my OS.but i could be wrong.If im wrong please correct me.

[earnhardtjr]

On page 21, 22 and 23 it shows the setup for the OS, Rossi, Picco, Dynamite and AE engine. The only one I cansee that takes two spacers is the Dynamite engine. The OS only show 1 #7628 spacer (silver), 1 #7618 collet, flywheel and clutch nut. The picco does use the gold spacer instead.

I had a problem with my crank turnig when I tried to tighten the clutch nut but I hydro locked it with After run oil and I was able to tighen up the nut and now my flywheel turns the crank like it should.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Ok thanx for corecting me.now i wont make that mistake again,LOL :D

[earnhardtjr]

Really was not looking to correct just wanted to make sure I was ok before I got started. Guess a check on myself. :)

Now if I can get the rain to stop and the sunto come out I am headed to the parking lot this week to heat cycle mine. Less than two weeks to go before the season starts .:cool:

[Tyco Team Racer]

HOLY CRUD! 215 pages!!! i posted on this topic when it was only like 46. i was known as Sponsored By Tyco. and that was the old one. Well my rc10gt has been sitting for about 1 year or so. and i just brought it back to life and boy does rc10gt kick ass!

Tell me if you like it?
http://deerfield-rc-racers.freeservers.com/images/mvc-010f.jpg

[atm92484_3]

Welcome back Tyco. :)

Nice looking truck. RCCA changed the format of the pages so there were less posts per page (more pages), so we'd probably have about 125 pages with the way it was.

[ritchies rc10gt]

nice truck tyco.i see im not the only one here thats using the aluminum shock towers.


well i ran mine today with the nonpullstart backplate.it runs much better than it did when it was pullstart.it runs much cooler than it used to.but i have a quick tuning question though.

i have my high speed needle set for the best fullthrottle performance and richend a little bit.now my low end im not sure about.when im running and let it idle down from full throttle to make a corner i have excellent take off out of the corner.when i bring it back to me to check the temp and fuel level it idles high for about 5 seconds and idles down.when i take off again it has a small hesitation.is this a good setting for the low speed?it will sit and idle as long as i let it sit.it runs fine except for the hesitation.is it too lean or too rich?it has a nice steady smoke trail at full throttle,it holds the revs perfect,i cant hear it "missing"nice smooth running at full throttle.it sounds like it gergling out the pipe when it idles.This is my first OS engine so i dont have experiance with how they are supposed to run.Its an OS .15CVX HYPER with the slide carb, converted to the .15CV HYPER with slide carb

[Jwelch]

wow, I haven't posted in a while.... You boys sure move fast. I haven't run my GT ion a while, and damn am I pissed. Hopefully it'll get warmer, cuz i plan on racing this season. My brother's getting an RTR too so that should be cool. well, I'll try for some pics when I get a chance. Later.

John

[J15BIG]

has anyone ever put headlights on an rc10? any pics? which ones should i get?

thanks

[kbright26]

Where is everyone there weren't any posts in this thread all day yesterday. Well Tonight I get to finally race my car around the neighborhood.:) I got the motor back together last night and it should be fun. Post later.

[Jwelch]

Yeah. I ran the hell out of my GT in a baseball field today....

Woman: "Excuse me, your toy car's smoking and make a lot of noise, is there something wrong with it??"

no b.s.....

[TRXboy]

welch - Ahah i hear ya man, i had some little soccer mom try to take my remote from me, while driving, because she wanted her 5 year old to practive baseball, that one went over real well.

[J15BIG]

slap that ***** and teach her a lesson. dont mess with a guy and his rc car. especially when he is driving it.:D

[atm92484_3]

ROFLMAO :D

[Jwelch]

yeah, I was tuning my GT at the park once and some lady with a kid walked up and started asking me about it, so I put the Tx on the table. Her little snot..er... kid grabbed it and sent it into a tree. It was my fault of course, and she made certain that I understood that. Some people...:rolleyes:

[Austin GT]

no offense but if your at a public park with kids and moms, you need to mind your P's&Q's because soon you might be talking to the LAW.and for what to drive your truck?don't get me wrong,i use to tune in the back of an apartment complex.people like my wife would be cool with a nitro-rc in a park because of my intrest but you cant expect that out of your average mom.with this hobby comes the responsibilty to respect other people around you.i might sound square but i'm just as die-hard as the next guy.and like i said no offense.:rolleyes:

[losixxxdriver]

This is my first post here on this forum, but I am sure I will be back here! Please read my post in the buy/sell/trade forum with my problems with my RC10GT. I put it there because I did not know that this was here! If you would look at it, and give me some help I would appreciate it! It is title "Please Help~!"
Thanks, Kyle

[TRXboy]

Austin, i was there first, there was no baseball game going on, or about to be played, it was a sunday morning, she wanted the feild, i was there first, i would win that argument, she had no rite, it is my property.

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

you should copy then paste your post in here before a mod deletes your post.

im no expert on the rc10gt, but i will try to help.
do you know which engine you have in the rc10gt?
It ALWAYS starts within like 3 pulls or so, but even if I leave the plug ignitor on for awhile, when I take the plug ignitor off, the motor dies SOMETIMES, not always!
this also happens to me sometimes, with all engines. when i put a new glow plug the problem stops.

Another thing, it takes quiet a bit of time for this thing to get to speed? Even when its not actually moving, when I punch the gas, it doesn't rev up or anything, if I keep punching it, it seems like all the fuel that I gave it over the last few throttle punches, all goes to the motor, and then it wont slow down!
i think the reason it takes awhile to get to speed is the breaks.
i know when i got my rtr rc10gt the break system was hooked up so that at idle the breaks are applied. because of this i think thats why it takes awhile for the car to accelerate.

But what about the slipper? Is there a recomended number of turns that i should back it out after I tighten all the way down?
i checked my manual and it didnt say how tight to tighten it.
i have no idea


goodluck :)

[ritchies rc10gt]

i just checked my manual and this is what it says about the slipper clutch nut:
"thread on the #6629 locknut and tighten it down so the end of the shaft is flush with the end of the nut."
you want about a half a thread sticking out of the nut
its on page 9,step 2

[atm92484_3]

Thats a good starting point, but if you run onroad, you should probably tighten it for better acceleration and less wear on the disk.

[losixxxdriver]

I will have to try that on my slipper clutch. I have another problem now! When I punch it the motor revs a little bit higher and the truck goes faster, but it only does like MAYBE 10 MPH, but I doubt it even goes that fast! Its almost like my servo is not puling the carb all the way open or something? I think it has something to do with the throttle/brake linkage, but I dont have a manual to look it up~! PLEASE CAN SOEONE HELP ME!
Thanks, Kyle

[losixxxdriver]

i guess the picture was to big

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

take off the airfilter, see if the carb opens fully when you apply throttle.

if you email me your address i can send you a copy of the manual.

[Austin GT]

I can agree with you,i have had a confrintation or 2 in public so i just try to watch my ass around others:cool:

[CGV]

sounds like there is something in your fueline/tank bocking the fuel from entering the carb so check that too

[losixxxdriver]

I got the carb to open fully now! My front aluminum shock tower is kinda loose, how do I tighten it? Is there just the 2 screws that are in the back? Also, now when I punch the throttle the car slowly goes but the motor screams1he only thing I did different is that the rear wheel actually fell off, YES FELL OFF!, and when I put it back on, it doesn't go now? I tried tightening my slipper, that did not work, tried loosening it, that did not work! PLEASE
HELP
Thanks, Kyle
P.S. RoadRunner, YGM!

[losixxxdriver]

on your profile it says u dont accept emails from different users!

[losixxxdriver]

well i found the problem~! the little pieces of metal that come out of the tranny(CVD's i think?) they are connected to the axles but is there supposed to be like little nipples that stick out on the CVD drive? I tok the tires off, and I can turn the axles with out ANYTHING else turning? like there is suppose to be little pieces that stick out of the CVD drive and grab the axle but there is not? this is the problem i know because when i punch it, the CVDs spin like hell but the tires dont move? how do i fix this? and what causes it?
Thanks, Kyle

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

Originally posted by losixxxdriver
on your profile it says u dont accept emails from different users!

sorry, try again

[losixxxdriver]

i found out that there is suposed to be like a pin that gos thru the axle and thru the CVD drive at the same time? AM I RIGHT? there is no pins in there!

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

hey guys, im new to the GT and have some questions. Is the os .12cv-x rotary carb a good engine? Also, what is a metal brake hex?

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

losi, sounds like you need new cvds. The lil metal thing isnt there, that it why your tires arent spining. Get new cvds.

[Jwelch]

or just the pins.

[rrip20]

Those cvd's had three runs on them. I don't think both pins would have fell out at once. If both pins are gone the bones will fall out.You changed wheels make sure the roll pins are still in the axle for the wheels and if they are make sure there seating in the wheels.

[CGV]

youll have to excuse me here but i disagree. my CVD pins fell out ON THE FIRST RUN with my car so.... If you cant find those little pins you can make your own with some small wire and wire cutters. My current CVD pins are actually peices of throttle linkage. good luck!

[ttweedle]

A good remedy to keep those pins in the CVD's is to put heat shrink tubing on em. this will hold it on.

Travis

[losixxxdriver]

Thanks GUYS!
Well actually it was BOTH! the left side pin in the axle was to long and would not go in the cut out in the wheel, and BOTH of the pins were actually gone! I shortened the axle pin so that works now, and I made my own CVD pins out of a paper clip! IS A PAPER CLIP NOT STRONG ENOUGH? How much is a set of stock CVDs? Also, the CVDs I think may be to short? On the right side, when I pick the truck up, or jump it and the tires ahng it pulls the CVD out of the tranny thing that has the grooves in it??? Can I get longer ones that sit back in the tranny cut out deeper? THANKS!
Kyle
LOL, you like my way of saying things! SORRY I DONT USE THE RC TURMINOLOGY!

[Railman]

Try a drill bit (HSS), or even piano wire for the pin. If I remember right it takes a 1/16" pin for the cvd.
Joe

[ritchies rc10gt]

sounds like you have to much positive camber in the rear IE:the top of the tires point outward instead of inward.do your rear wheels look like this:\ / or like this/ \.the tops of the tires should be pointed inward a little bit.if you are having this much trouble with the CVDs by a new set if you have enough cash,it will save you some headaches.


I found a nice spot to run my GT today.Its a dirt lot where people run dirtbikes,It has some nice jumps.iI actually got to run my truck on some dirt.since i moved ive been running it onroad just to run it.i dont like to let it sit for more than a few days.after many bad crashes,cartwheels,end over end,and i actually got it to do a backflip!,although i wasnt trying to do it,all i broke was the tranny case where the rear brace screws to.as soon as the LHS gets the trinity rear brace in im getting one.i set my MIP clutch in the wieghted reverse position and man does it hook up!i like it better than the standard and wieghted standard positions.i just need to loosen the slipper so that it doent wheelie all the time.my .15 CVX HYPER runs better than it did when i got it since i went to non pullstart.it runs cooler and has more power.Ive had this truck for a year now and i never get bored with it.as long as i have batteries,fuel and my starter box im good to go.


RC10GTs rock!!!

[bubbastump]

help please
i have a gt withn an os.12 on the 3rd gal of gas now i recently rebuilt and cleaned engine the piston and sleeve look like new i used after run oil to help the parts gotogether smoothly like i did the last 2 times it has good compression but when i tried to start it the only way it would start is with idle 1/2 open and goosing throtthe then dies is it possible that the after run oil is getting needlels mixed up
please help me quick i only have a few weeks of practice at the track before racing starts if u live in or around maryland come by the track and check it out
email me for directions
bubbastump@att.net

[atm92484_3]

The first, and most easily made mistake while reassembling the 12 CV would be installing the piston backwards. I did this and the engine wouldn't start. Take the manifold off and turn the engine over. If you can see a hole in the piston then its in backwards.

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

How old is the rc10gt?

[losixxxdriver]

hey everone-
i was just wondering now that bubba brought up the subject of rebuilding the motor and all, i was just wonderin how often i should rebuild my motor? the case of the motor is filthy just between the mix of the oil from the pipe and dirt it like sticks. but other than thaty my motor seems to run VERY strong. i was just wondering how often i should tear it down and rebuild it?
also, i am going to the hobby shop tomorrow after schol, and i am going to buy the MIP shiny CVD kit, and i will keep you all posted on whats up with my gt. i tried to post a picture of mine on here, but the pic was to big!
thanks, kyle

[bubbastump]

yaknow i was worried about the piston being backwards ill change it mon evening and let yall know thanks its only 1-2 months old i run it almost daily at the local track i just cant wait to try it out on the new tripple and step up double

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

you can spray the dirt of with wd-40. just dont get it into the engine or on your receiver/servos.

email me the pic.

[Got Speed]

Finnaly, I got my internet working again! But now my GT is down. Just one of my CVDs keeps popping out of the outerdrive. Has anyone else had this problem?

[topnotch77]

Anybody running a Fantom .12 in their GT? I'm running one and it doesn't seem to have any low end punch. I adjusted the MIP clutch to the #1 setting to let the engine build up RPMs. I tried adjusting the low end needle with the help of a Fantom technician. The engine runs well, idles great, top end is awesome. But the low end seems off. I can't pop wheelies and it just doesn't feel "punchy".

Any thoughts?

[losixxxdriver]

roadrunner, YGM with pics of RC10GT!

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

losixxxdriver's RC10GT

http://home.nyc.rr.com/freewebspace/losixxxpics/RC10GT%20%231.jpg

http://home.nyc.rr.com/freewebspace/losixxxpics/RC10GT%20%232.jpg

very nice losixxdriver.

[DR.GT]

Topnotch!

What pipe are you running? What is your average temp? Are you bogging on the bottom end before power comes on( a stutter or long time to build revs) after idling for 20+ seconds?

Rules of tuning:

1. 1st...engine at operating temp (2-3 minutes)
2. Be able to clear your engine on top speed ( clockwise to lean or counter clockwise to richen on top end needle to reach top revs of engine)
3. Then adjust in temp needed on low end needle to running temp desired. ( counter clockwise(richen) to cool or clockwise to(lean) to operating temp wanted.
4. Then adjust idle ( idle screw, counterclock wise for less idle speed and clockwise for more idle speed) for idling speed needed.

Its really that simple!

your welcome...

[topnotch77]

Dr. GT.

Thanks. I'm running at around 240 to 260'. I found a great article in Extreme RC (back issue) that explain the low and high end tuning. You pretty much summarized it. I'm gonna give it a try today.

Basically, it doing what you said, bogging on the low end.

Thanks!!!

[ritchies rc10gt]

LOSIXXDRIVER,what is that blue thing next to you throttle servo and reciever?and where did you get it?




GOT SPEED,how is your rear ride hieght?CVD bones level?are the tops of your tires pointed out to much?do you have enough spacers between the bearing and axle?mine needed 2 spacers

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

I also wondered what that was. Heres a better look of it.

Losixxx, what radio system do you use? Im using the rtr radio. I find it to be too small, it gets uncomfortable after awhile.

http://home.nyc.rr.com/freewebspace/losixxxpics/Image4.jpg

[bad andy]

Hey all. I have an idea I was wondering about, perhaps some of your guys input would benefit my completion of this project. I want turn my RC10gt into a rollcage equipped 1/10 dune buggy. It's the old style GT that uses the aluminum tub chassis, which I feel would lend itself to the dune buggy look pretty well. Anyhow, I plan on using 1/10 buggy rims and rubber for the front wheels. Anybody know if the 1/10 buggy rims and wheels will go on the front of the GT w/o modifications, or of mods are necessary, what they might be? Concerning the rollcage, I do not have a welding torch or welding experience for that matter. I was planning on finding materials to solder together to create a rollcage. Anybody have any input for what types of materials to create the rollcage from? What grades of solder would work well with the materials? Lastly, I'd like to be able to get the materials at a HOME DEPOT or something like that. Thanks in advance for any input you guys might have. I appreciate it greatly,

Bad andy-

[losixxxdriver]

Hey all-
Its called a servo/reiiever guard. I bought it and it was already on the truck. I know you can buy them at www.neweramodels.com
They say it helps from keeping your servo and reciever still there when you get hit from the side when your racing. I think it sells for like $15 or so.
I use the Futaba Magnum Sport radio from Tower Hobbies. It cost me like $50 or so, and it really comfortable, no matter how long I am driving. Any other qustions guys? LOL
Talk to you Later,
Kyle

[speedydave]

I have some of the exact same parts Losixxxdriver has on his GT. I have those shock towers, and that receiver guard. Of course, my rx guard isn't so straight, it's been used ;)

EDIT: I just took a second look at mine, and it turns out it's not the same thing... :rolleyes woops! :D

[losixxxdriver]

i used the RTR lynx radio on my losi electric truck and did not like the feel of it! i especially dont like how it like encloses your hand~ i dont like the part in fron of your hand to b there, i like it opened up more!
kmc

[atm92484_3]

Losi, is that an Atomik body? If so, how do you like it?

[losixxxdriver]

yes it is a tomik body. i think it is probably the best body that i have found! EXTREMELY THICK LEXAN compared to the stock bodies, and rrip20 did a excellent job cutting it out also!

[ritchies rc10gt]

does anybody have the website for HITECH?my metal gear servo died today.it was going fast one way but very slow and twitchy the other way,and getting very very very hot!i took it apart to see if the gears were sticking and needed to be cleaned and lubed and it was so hot the solder on the wires melted and the wires fell off.i know there was a warranty on it and i want to see if they will cover it

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
does anybody have the website for HITECH?

http://www.hitecrcd.com/

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

This is from there site


How Long is Hitec's Warranty ?
All Hitec RCD products are warranted against defects for a period of 2 Years from the date of purchase. During this period we will repair or replace at our discretion any defective products. You should always retain your original receipt as proof of date purchase

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What is Covered?
Hitec's warranty covers any manufacturer's defects.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What is Not Covered?
Our warranty does not cover cosmetic damages, damages caused by acts of God, misuse, abuse, negligence, improper installation or damages caused by alteration by unauthorized persons.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How do I get Repairs Done?
Send your defective product to:



Include with your return:

Your name, address and daytime telephone number

A detailed note stating exactly what went wrong and how happened.

A copy of your original purchase receipt.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How Long Will it Take to get My Repair Done?
Our goal is to ship your repair back out within 5 days from the day we get it. Unfortunately we cannot always accomplish this due to seasonal fluctuations in our workload. You can always contact our service department @ service@hitecrcd.com or call (858) 748-6948 to find out just how long the current turnaround time is.

[topnotch77]

Holy Cow! Just got my Fantom .12 tuned. Thanks Dr. GT!!!

I cannot believe the power. My tires kept ballooning. I thought they were gonna rip off. I'm loving my GT. Next on the list is getting my T-Maxx tuned.

[ritchies rc10gt]

thanx roadrunner,im gonna email them to see if they will cover it.the only problem is i cant find the reciept for it.i wonder if they will still cover it.ive only had it a year so if i have to buy another servo i dont mind.i figure if i got a year out of it i got my moneys worth

[losixxxdriver]

hey guys-
got everything i needed at the shop today. i actually bought just the hole MIP CVD package and whatever i did not use i held onto. i put it all together and it works great. my buddy at the shop said that he has seen that happen on the GTs a ton of times, but he really didn't explain it to me because he had alot of other customers and me and him were just bs'en. well i go it all together, and started her up, SHE RUNS GREAT! i now have my tires like his: / \ in stead of like this: \ / !!!!!!
now i just need to work on tuning the motor. i have the O.S. max .12 and it seems to get off the line real quick when i punch it, but it gets up to speed to fast i think, i dont think i am running the motor at its peak.?.? i need some help on it. i dont know which screw to turn on the motor in order to get the high speed up higher??? is it the needle valve, with the bronze/gold case around it??? PLEASE HELP!
i also had an idea.... i was thinking that if alot of the GT owners had any kind of instant messengers(AOL, Yahoo, or MSN) then maybe we can have like a meet once anight or once a week maybe? make up our own chat room or something? what do you guys think? post your ideas and thoughts on this thread or email me them. if u want to talk to me on a instant messenger, my screen name is f557ci750
talk to u all later,
kyle

[DTRAX]

losixxxdriver

Hey what are those front tires are you running. Do you like them ,are they better than the ribbed, and how do they hold up in other kinds of terrain such as hard or soft dirt and or asphalt.

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

your high speed needle is the big one with the bronze case around it. did you veiw the video?

f557ci750- for which instant messenger is that id for?

[losixxxdriver]

D, they are associated tires. im not sure what they are called, they have ribs but with like litle ribs in between the normal size ribs. i have not ran on any surface except for asphault and they are holding up excellent!
Road, i did watch the video but i was excited cuz that was when i first got it, and i was like tryin to put my servos in, and watch the video and everything at once, i should pay more attention next time, i will watch the video when i get home from school tomorrow,
c ya, kyle
f557ci750 is my screen name is my id on all instant messengers

[Got Speed]

[i]GOT SPEED,how is your rear ride hieght?CVD bones level?are the tops of your tires pointed out to much?do you have enough spacers between the bearing and axle?mine needed 2 spacers [/B]

The bones are level. O degrees of camber. I have one space between the roll pin and the carrier. Do you have them on the other side?

[lositeamdriver]

well after running the losi for a year now i have to trow in the towel silver state was the last time illbreak a hob or a a arm in my main it just pisses me off well i ahve decide to pick me up a factory team gt today and lay the smack down with it here in vegas well i will be posting here from now on about gts and not losi any more ttyl guys ....

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

welcome to the gt forum. you're right losi does suck. :D

Are you going to still keep your name?

[OldskoolGT]

Just gonna chime in here since I am the old school GT'er. The tires on losixxxdriver's truck are the very old school GT tires. The RC10GT kits 8 years ago came with tires like those. I still have 2 pairs of those tires. :)

[lositeamdriver]

well i prob try to change my name i did some good stuff with the losi won alot of races but it just go to much to sit there and try to drive like a old women to be fast you can push the gt more then a losi and the gt handles alot better on rough tracks ttyl

[bubbastump]

hey guys thanks fer the advice i feel like a huge dumb ars the piston was backwards i started it up mannnnnnnnnnnnn did it take off i got the perfet settings it was like a rocket on the back stretch runnin with the 1/8 buggies back there just gotta work on the double n tripple the step up is ok i barely clear the top at half throttle over shoot and clear the turn at full throttle need little improvement in the shicane flew past loosies:D

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Got Speed


The bones are level. O degrees of camber. I have one space between the roll pin and the carrier. Do you have them on the other side?



you should have a cone washer between the roll pin and carrier and spacers bihind the carrier against the raised ridge on the axle

[Got Speed]

Thanks. It looked like there should be some washers behind the carrier but I never had to put any back there before.

[Leinzey]

Has anyone else had this problem? It only happens when the truck on the stnad, because the suspension compresses slightly when it's on the ground. I'm still concerned, though, because I'm afraid that when the truck jumps or when the truck is in the rough stuff the cvd's will start to rub and it will be as if the brake is dragging, causing me to nose-dive coming off of a jump, or it may cuase the suspension to bind. I guess I'm going to have to whip out the trusty Dremel, and grind alittle off of the arms. Anyone else have to do this?

[atm92484_3]

You could try grinding, or take the shocks apart and install maybe 1/8" of the internal, downstop spacers. I really hope AE's next GT update includes tweak screws (like on the Nitro TC3) so you can use those to easily adjust the ride height.

[speedydave]

Tweak screws put a tremendous amount of strain on the arms and chassis, and if they are not equally screwed in, it will tweak your chassis. What I would do is use internal travel limiters, which does the same thing as tweak screws. It may not be as convenient, but I think the end result is a lot more forgiving, especially if the builder isn't as experienced as others. Besides, when have you ever seen tweak screws on an offroad car?

[atm92484_3]

1/8 buggies lol...hey theres a first time for everything. :D

[GTracer22]

Whats up every1? Man this thread has gotten huge since I left and theres a lot of new people.I just spent ovr $100 to get my Gt running so I guess Im back into the hobby!:D

[ross]

Originally posted by Leinzey
Has anyone else had this problem? It only happens when the truck on the stnad, because the suspension compresses slightly when it's on the ground. I'm still concerned, though, because I'm afraid that when the truck jumps or when the truck is in the rough stuff the cvd's will start to rub and it will be as if the brake is dragging, causing me to nose-dive coming off of a jump, or it may cuase the suspension to bind. I guess I'm going to have to whip out the trusty Dremel, and grind alittle off of the arms. Anyone else have to do this?

Yeah I noticed the same thing with my Dogbones. Im not sure if they are actually touching, but if they are not its extremly close, I cant feel any resistance when I turn the wheels round. I plan on upgrading the dogbones to 4mm think Titanium CVD's so Ill see how i get on then!


ross

[losixxxdriver]

hey all-
i have no had a problem with the CVD hitting the arms but i have had a problem witht the pins coming out and taking like a chunk out of the arms? but i got that fixed when i took it to the shop and they helped me.
guys, as much as I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS SPORT, I am only 13 and I don think I can keep up with the expenses??? I WOULD LOVE TO< BUT I DONT THINK I CAN! I need some money for my real car. I am looking for a 67-68-69 Dodge Dart, or a Ford Ranger(1983 or that body style). Anyone know of one for sale anywhere?
Well anyways, I am going to have to get out of the sport I think. You have all seen pictures of my GT and I have only ran 3/4 of a gallon of Traxxas 20% Nitro through the new O.S. Max .12. I am going to sell EVERYTHING THAT I HAVE! I am selling the following:
1. Team GT(now as good as a Factory team or better maybe)
2. Futaba Magnum Sport Radio with 2 servos, and the reciever already installed.
3. 1/2 Gallon of Traxxas 20% NItro Fuel (never opened)
4. 250cc Fuel Bottle
5. 2 front tires mounted on Yellow AE wheels
6. 4 rear tires(2 square fuzzies, 2 road hawgs), also mounted on Yellow AE wheels
7. Extra pair of Yellow front wheels
8. Blue anodized shock towers front and rear
9. Blue rear bulkhead
10. Brand new blue aluminum chassis-NO scratches at all!
11. New blue metal antenna mount
12. New Atomik Body
13. Pack of body clips
14. New MIP CVD repair kit
15. 2 new CVDs
16. New pack of CVD pins
17. And also a LITTLE assortment of other things for this AWESOME truck!
I am not sure on a price for this bad boy, but I would like to get somewhere around $ 375 shipped. If it does not sell on here, it is going on Ebay!
Let me know if you are interested!
Thanks In Advance! Kyle

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

Sorry to hear that losixxx. Yes this hobbie is very expensive
especialy nitro cars.

You can also try the buy/sell/trade forum.

Im going to put the larger pics on my site so that you can post them when you sell the GT.
http://home.nyc.rr.com/freewebspace/losixxxpics

goodluck

[southbornracer]

was wondering if the nitro star 12. was a good motor?new to nitro and this motor is in the truck.is it good enough to race with or will i need to change it out with somthing like the o.s cvr .12.?thanks for your advice.......billy

[atm92484_3]

Don't waste your money on a Nitro Star engine; they have no power. Since you are new, I'd reccomend trying to find something along the lines of a 12 CV-X for a good price. The 12 CV-Rs are great engines, but they are a little harder to break in since they are ABC instead of ABN like the 12 CVs. The 12 CVs still aren't the most powerful, but you would atleast stand somewhat of a chance on a racetrack with it. If you have the patients, then just go ahead and get a 12 CV-R. They are really easy engines to tune; the only reason they wouldn't be my first reccomendation to someone new to nitro is due to the extended break-in they require and the heat cycling.

Welcome to the GT Forum. :)

[Austin GT]

It's final,I'm buying a XXXNT."Why?"you say,its because I've done my home-work & I think I like the Losi XXXNT.I've turned more laps with a Losi XXXNT than with my totally dialed-in AE GT.I cant understand why you say all the bad things about Losi(some yes) but the XXXNT is an all-around kick-ass truck.Everyone wins with Losi (with exceptions) maybe it suits my driving style.BUT I AM KEEPING MY GT,I'm going to put the PEPSI challenge to these mf.Who knows I may change my mind BUT I cant deny the results that I've had with the XXXNT so I'm going to see for myself so......:cool: :confused: (HEY Kyle/losixxxdriver explain why you're trying to buy a GT(on buy/sell forum) when you posted that you are getting out of the sport,and said you were selling everything,***?:confused:

[lositeamdriver]

austin they are both great trucks i liek the ae gt better becuse it handles better on the rough tracks to me and the gt is faster in alot of ways and doesnot brake as much as a losi does i have been racing for 1 year in gas and the losi only won a couple and broke all the reat i drive fast but its on the edge driving and it does work only with a gt so its personal opion about the truck and what ever fits your driving style

[chachi]

i just got a new gt rtr kit today and i have a few questions....

1) should i leave in the carburator air restrictor for engine break-in? i plan on taking it out eventually. what difference will its presence or absence make? does not having it in effects the intial carburator adjustments (low speed, high speed, idle)?

2) what difference does having bearings make? i have heard that they are the first hop-up i should get. what diiference in performance will i see?

3) any other tips on break-in? the manual says to run the car from first tank, just not hard. anybody have any experience breaking in this engine?

thanks.

[ross]

Welcome!

1) I was going to say take it out, but then i thought that the base settings for break it might be with the restrictor, so if you took the restrictor out it would run to lean. Just leave it in, then after break in get rid of it.

2) Bearings will make your truck smoother, faster, and more efficient.

3) I have never owned that engine so i cant help on that one.



hope this helps


ross

[Slicks]

Has anyone moved their batteries off the tail of the truck? Mine seems awful tail heavy on big jumps. It is a lot easier to raise the front during a jump with the throttle, than to lower it with the brakes.:D If so do you have any pics of the new location? Thanks....Jason

[ross]

Originally posted by Slicks
Has anyone moved their batteries off the tail of the truck? Mine seems awful tail heavy on big jumps. It is a lot easier to raise the front during a jump with the throttle, than to lower it with the brakes.:D If so do you have any pics of the new location? Thanks....Jason


If you move the batteries to the front of the truck then you dont get has much grip on the rear end, but you get better steering. So its up to you to which you need the most.

You could put them on top the of the RX with a cable tie.

My stock GT Team Built seems perfectly balanced for jumps.



ross

[DR.GT]

slicks:

Put a 1 oz. weight in the front end ( actually to give a little more steering, but the weight will help to keep the front end down a bit) and don't punch it to the sky off the jumps (thats the slow way to faster laps). You just want to clear the jump as low as possible and actually land on the downslope of the jump with your front wheels. You'll be much faster and in control of your truck off the jump this way.

your welcome...:)

[Slicks]

Yea when I get serious about racing I don't launch so hard off the jumps, but we don't have any local tracks. My buddy and I have been racing on a BMX track and big air has been an ingredient for fun. We actually started racing each other some and he asked why my car wasn't pulling as hard as his on the jumps I played stupid and told him I wasn't sure;) I used to race electric cars and the key to speed is staying on the ground. I'll try the 1 ounce wieght for now. I am getting ready to order a battery pack and was trying to decide on the pack configuration. Thanks for the replies

[southbornracer]

thats all i needed to know.i had never heard of the nitro star before,so i thought i make sure with someone who knows.going to try the o.s.cvr and add an o'donnell head and pipe then get some nitro guys at the track help me break it in.thanks for your help atm:) .............billy

[Railman]

Southborn, The CV-R doesn't need a head, it's good to go. It's the original CV that needs the O'Donnel head. They are night and day different engines.

DRGT, That's about what we always ran too. The tub seemed to need a bit more than the factory team though. I've seen guys run as much as 3 oz on the tubs with good results. I settled on about 3/4 oz on my FTGT. I guess the longer wheel base & thicker chassis shifts a bit more weight to the front on the FTGT. Just some thoughts.
Joe

[bubbastump]

Originally posted by chachi
i just got a new gt rtr kit today and i have a few questions....

1) should i leave in the carburator air restrictor for engine break-in? i plan on taking it out eventually. what difference will its presence or absence make? does not having it in effects the intial carburator adjustments (low speed, high speed, idle)?

2) what difference does having bearings make? i have heard that they are the first hop-up i should get. what diiference in performance will i see?

3) any other tips on break-in? the manual says to run the car from first tank, just not hard. anybody have any experience breaking in this engine?

thanks.


i lnow some one who totaly fried his rtr engine so do yourself a favor by an os.12 then when the ae .15 cooks you can run the os perfect for the beginer

[ScMc]

hey guys, i plan on getting a team built rc10gt. Is there any mods that i should do to the truck once it comes? Is there any known problems with this truck? Also, what would be the best engine/tuned pipe setup for a beginner(me,lol)? thanks a lot!

[atm92484_3]

There aren't really any mods you need, but most people usually upgrade the clutch to the MIP one as one of their first upgrades. When the truck comes, my best advice is to make sure all the screws are tight and to threadlock any screws that go into metal (requires minor disassembly). The stock pipe and manifold are great and many (including myself) would consider the pipe to be one of the best offroad pipes available.

[losixxxdriver]

hey man-
i noticed you said you are planning on getting a team built truck! i have one for sale! it has the blue aluminum chassis, blue shock towers, blue screw kit, blue rear bulkhead, and more. i am selling it as a RTR with radio and 1/2 gallon of gas! $350 shipped.
email me if you r interested!
thanks, kyle blueoval557@hotmail.com

[chachi]

i got my gt rtr running, and gad damn does it ever rule! once the carb restrictor is out, it flies. nice handling......whew.

i am replacing the bushings with bearings, and i ended up with a couple left over. i can't figure out where they could possibly go. all wheels are accounted for, the gear box and differential, the slipper clutch...where am i missing?

also, the differential is NOT buttery smooth. is this the way it supposed to feel? it felt this way when i took it out and when i put it back together. i followed the directions in the manual, exactly (i.e. tighten the t bolt all the way, then back it out 1/8 of a turn).

[lositeamdriver]

chaci
they go in the

rear hubs
front whells
diff
tranny
clutch bell
front servo saver
rear out drives

[Rags]

Well the R/C bug has bittin me again,coworker bought a Nitro Rustler and brought into work........err I said let me try it....never tried a NItro car before....WOW now thats fast....Well went home and dug out the old R/C stuff out of the shed from years past....boy I feel old....Grasshopper and RC10 and a Futuba FP-T2GS Trans.....fired up the old RC10 and away I went..well electric is not as appealing since the Nitro buzz....had to have it....well since I liked Associated stuff I trucked on down to the local hobby store and bought an RC10gt RTR......I LOVE it!The Tranmitter that comes with it sucks...glitching runa away.....so upgraded to a Mag junior FM...that fixed that,guess to much interference for AM this day and age and in my neck of the woods....Glad I found this place to gain knowledge on the GT...so If I ask some thing stupid Slap me I am a NOOB!!!!!Just shoot me some info guys on the RTR I need to upgrade so it wont sit in the corner....broken:( ............Thanks Rags

[losixxxdriver]

Hey Guys-
I need this thing gone because I need the money for my real car!
I will sell verything listed here for only $330 shipped anywhere! Just email if you have any questions. Heres what it is:
Team GT Truck
Futaba Magnum Sport Radio system already installed
New Blue AE Chassis
New Blue AE Shock Caps
New BLue AE Screw Kit
New BLue AE Springs
New BLue AE Front+Rear Shock Towers
New Blue AE Bulkhead
New BLue AE Servo/Reciever Guard
MIP Clutch
Blue Duratrax Head
New AE Front Tires mounted on Yellow AE Wheels
New Square Fuzzie rear tires mounted on yellow AE Wheels
New Road Hawg Rear Tires mounted on Yellow AE Wheels
New Set of front yellow AE wheels in package
New Atomik Pre-Painted Body
Extra Glow PLug
New Blue Aluminum Antenna Mount
New Antenna Tube
MIP CVD Kit in package
MIP CVD Maintenance Kit
New CVDS are in truck plus what is in the package
Package of AE Pins for the CVD's
I will also throw in some tools or whatever else I can find!
If you are interested let me know!
Thanks Kyle blueoval557@hotmail.com

[atm92484_3]

Why not take a shot at posting in the Buy/Sell/Trade forum? :confused:

[lositeamdriver]

well i had some extra clutch bell bushing today so i threw them on brand new to see what they can do and i ran 2 tanks and they where toast how can you use them on the rtr if they olny last 2 tanks?

[atm92484_3]

Something is wrong if they only lasted 2 tanks. I've used bushings in the clutch for atleast 3 gallons. Either the idle was set too high or the clutch was set to engauge too late; both would cause the bushings to have excess wear.

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

Are graphite parts lighter than alum? im wondering which is lighter: alum. shock towers or graphite ones....

[Got Speed]

rags-I would upgrade to bearings, MIP 4 in 1 clutch, high torque steering servo(like the CS-80 www.hobbypeople.com), and CVDs.

spyderwerksN'=w=-Graphite is lighter, and weaker. Aluminum is heavier and stronger. I prefer graphite because it's lighter and I have never broken a graphite tower.

[lositeamdriver]

well they got really slopy after to tanks well the idle was high becuse my high end screws screws it self in all alone i dont know why but every lap it wouls screw it self in im trying to figure out how to fix it its a os cv???

[TRXboy]

Finaly got my hands on a new cluch today, man what a diffrence, brought the whole truck back to life, stil waitng on the 0 matnece steering, that sould help alot.


Anyone know hoe to bend back a bent bulkhead?

[Rags]

Bearings on the way already,ordering other stuff also............Ran a gallon already...lost spur gear screws and thats it,gotta love Associated stuff,popped out carb restrictor as read here and re tuned and HOLY S*IT!!!!I can barely drive it...LOVE IT!!!!gonna work on steering and the rest cause its fast enough for me(yea right)....I have seen pics here on trick steering stuff and throttle linkages ,servo horns out of billit etc......where can I find al this kewl stuff(drool):confused: on the Web........Thanks Guys......................gotta love AZ weather huh Speed? :D

[speedydave]

TRXBoy, uh, HOW did you bend the bulkhead? Or do we really not want to know? Uhh, don't you run the RPM bulkhead? Anyways, those bulks are pretty darn thick, I'd just buy a new one, and avoid doing what you did to it...Which one did you have?

[TRXboy]

alraedy went threw 2 RPM bulks, got tired of sending them in, im running the HG bulk, its definetly tweaked, body mounting holes dont line up anymore, oh well, nothing a good hammer shot couldnt do.

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

Hey TRXboyt, do you have the website to HG?

Thanks

[gedertr]

Hammad Ghuman's Website:

http://www.1hg.com/

[kbright26]

what are some good bearings to put in my RTR? I want to buy some.

[ritchies rc10gt]

check out the dynamite red sealed bering kit for the GT.i seen them at the LHS for 49.99.

[Rags]

I just bought a set off EBAY...I know I know.......$23.00 bucks from TeamBluestar.....I will tell you how they work out.........gota be better then bushings...................try a search on ebay under hobbies then Radio control then(RC10) all sorts of stuff.....just watch what u bid on.....some of the stuff is questionable..................Where you at in AZ?I am down in Tucson.............Beginning to see I should of just bought a Factory Team GT and not the RTR.....would have been cheaper in the long run...........oh well Live and learn.....................Rags

[kbright26]

Are the RPM Bearing any good. And do I have to buy anything else with them.

[LeadFinger]

Hey guys
I am new to this forum and the sport of nitro rc. I have a RC10GT RTR. I have had it for a few weeks now and felt confidant enough to take out the carb restrictor. Well I keep breaking things because the darn thing is so fast, but I like it that way. The last thing I broke was the rear bulkhead. Do you think I should replace it with a aluminum one? Oh ya, what does LOL mean?
Thanks in advance,

LeadFinger

[OldskoolGT]

TRXboy, where are the RPM bulkheads breaking at? Just curious.

LeadFinger,

The aluminum bulkheads are not worth the money IMHO. They will just get bent out of shape and you won't be able to straighten it out in a satisfactory manner. I just run a screw through the center of a stock bulkhead along with some JB Weld to reinforce it.

LOL means Laughing Out Loud. :)

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by LeadFinger
Hey guys
I am new to this forum and the sport of nitro rc. I have a RC10GT RTR. I have had it for a few weeks now and felt confidant enough to take out the carb restrictor. Well I keep breaking things because the darn thing is so fast, but I like it that way. The last thing I broke was the rear bulkhead. Do you think I should replace it with a aluminum one? Oh ya, what does LOL mean?
Thanks in advance,

LeadFinger



you have 2 choices here:1 spend 40 bux everytime you bend the aluminum bulkhead or 2 spend 3 bux when you break a plastic one.i like the plastic one.you can also get the RPM bulkhead that isnt supposed to break but i dont know the website for it.

LOL= laughing out loud

[King Nothing]

How do u guys break the bulkheads? I still have my original one, and it's lasted me. Aluminum ones will not solve the problem, and sometimes make the problem worse. Since it can't absorb some of the shock, it'll transfer it somewhere else(breaking something else) or bend it self. Once it's bent, u can't bend it back, it'll always be weak.

[ross]

On the outer bearing on my rear hub where the axle go's through the cover has come off, so I can see the actual Ball Bearings. Whats wrong with the bearing? What shall I do? Is it ok like this?



thanks


ross

[ritchies rc10gt]

you need a new bearing.dirt will get in it and kill it real quick.



i have a set of 1/4"CVDs in mine,will the 3/16"axles fit in the bones for the 1/4"?i really dont want to spend another 40 bux for another set of CVDs.

[fezzy]

Hey guys, i posted months and months ago now just before i was about to buy a GT Team Built with the Associated .15..... I bought a second hand NMT about 2 months ago now and its in top condition but lately i've been thinking of exchanging it for either a new GT Team Built with the Associated .15 or another option was part exchanging it for a second hand GT Factory Team with a RB-C12 engine. I don't know how much the guy wants for his FTGT but i should know sort of in the next few days. Ross is a good friend of mine and i was going to get the GT TB at the same time he got his and since he got it i have heard nothing but praise on how fast and strong it really is and thats just got me more into the idea of exchanging it, i obviously know what you'l all say but i want your opinion anyway..... the only thing i am concerned about is the difference in handling with the 2wd compared to the 4wd of the NMT, your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

There is nothing really wrong with my NMT, infact i quite like it.... its a easy runner and handle very well but its just too fragile! I've been through 2 sets of suspension arms and bent the same hinge pin twice now and apart from that i've been having small little things happening to me.... problem with the steering, dogbones popping out, overheating and mostly on how slow it is with the .15FE engine so now i want something that is going to be v strong, good at jumping, good handling, reliable and fast! and i'm just wondering wether i'l get that in a part ex for either for the new TB or the secondhand FTGT, i am kind of leaning towards the new TB instead of the FTGT even though i know that it will fly.... the main reason is because its new, buying my NMT second hand with all the problems that has come with it has kind of put me off buying second hand trucks all together.

ATM my NMT has the following stuff on it, tell me wether you think it will be reasonable to trade it for a new TB GT.....
TRX15 PRO Heatstink head
Blue springs all round
50wt shock oil
T-Maxx header
Associated anodised purple factory team pipe
Sanwa 102 servo's, Sanwa RX and a Acoms TX

I do have a Venom Temperature Monitor and a GWS Failsafe but i wish to keep those.

[DR.GT]

Ritchie:

Yes the bones should work ok. The other thing you can do is buy the oversize RPM carriers with larger bearings. They might be the cheaper way to go. They worked awesome on one of my old GT's years ago with no bearing failures at all when I changed over to them.

:)

[ross]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
you need a new bearing.dirt will get in it and kill it real quick.



i have a set of 1/4"CVDs in mine,will the 3/16"axles fit in the bones for the 1/4"?i really dont want to spend another 40 bux for another set of CVDs.


thanks, is there a reason why this happened, i would have thought that a bearing would have lasted longer than 6 races.



ross

[atm92484_3]

Ross, try flipping the bearing so the side that doesn't have a seal is inside the hub. I've had this happen before and did this and the bearing never did fail since it was protected.

[Super<S>Man]

you could make another seal out of paper or just about any material.

[ross]

Cool, thanks for the tips guys.



ross

[TRXboy]

one snaped at teh base and another cracked down the center.

[DTRAX]

I have an Rc 10 gt factory team currently with a .12 cvx engine. I want to up grade my engine. I was thinking about either the

O.S. .12 CV-R w/10E Rotary Off-Road Carb,
O.S. .12 CV with a DuraTrax .12 O.S. Stage II Performance Head
or the O.S. .15 CV Hyper w/10C Slide-Valve Carb.

Which would be the best. I like to race and drive around. If you have any experiance with these 3 engines, any thoughts would be appreciated.

[ritchies rc10gt]

i have the .15cvx hyper with slide carb converted to non pullstart.i love it.very good engine.i have ran almost 2 gallons of fuel through it so far and it still has very good power and compression.and i beat the snots out of it.the slide carb seems a little bit toooooo snappy but im coming from a rotary carb.

[ross]

Originally posted by DTRAX
I have an Rc 10 gt factory team currently with a .12 cvx engine. I want to up grade my engine. I was thinking about either the

O.S. .12 CV-R w/10E Rotary Off-Road Carb,
O.S. .12 CV with a DuraTrax .12 O.S. Stage II Performance Head
or the O.S. .15 CV Hyper w/10C Slide-Valve Carb.

Which would be the best. I like to race and drive around. If you have any experiance with these 3 engines, any thoughts would be appreciated.


Alot of peoples say the .12CVR is a great engine in the GT, I know that has the most power too. Also the CVR is ABC construction unline the CV engines.



ross

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by DR.GT
Ritchie:

Yes the bones should work ok. The other thing you can do is buy the oversize RPM carriers with larger bearings. They might be the cheaper way to go. They worked awesome on one of my old GT's years ago with no bearing failures at all when I changed over to them.

:)



do you have the part numbers for them?



has anybody here seen the trinity reciever box for the GT?i seen it but dont know if its anygood or not.i had the LHS order me one anyways,i just wanted your opinions on it

[Railman]

Ross, Atm is right about flipping the bearing around. Some people actually remove the seal on one side (inside the hub) to make it easier to clean, & to reduce friction. The friction part isn't a biggie on nitro, but cleaning the bearings easily & thouroghly is.
Joe

[DR.GT]

Ross:

AE changed the bearings from the 1/4" to the 3/16"
because of premature failure from the RC10T to the T2. I used to blow out the 1/4" bearings all the time until I changed over to the larger ones by RPM. Then AE changed to the 3/16" for all vehicles and all is well from the change to now.

:)

[Planet-X]

The switch on my GT is toast...I was wondering if this is the proper replacement?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVW04&P=0

thanks!

[ross]

Thanks for all the help guys, Ive flipped the bearing now, Ill see how it goes.

What do you guys use to clean the bearings?


Also, there is this company is england who make titanium CVD's for the GT and they do 1/4" and 3/16" versions, which ones would i want? Are there any advantages on either of them?

Planet,

yeah that looks like the right switch.


thanks again


Ross.

[atm92484_3]

Planet, that switch looks like it will fit about anything except a Futaba or JR radio (I'm not sure which plug JR has so even those it might fit).

Ross, if you get those CVDs, get the 3/16" ones since you can use the 3/16"x3/8" bearings. The advantage to these over the 1/4" axles (which use 1/4"x3/8" bearings) are the balls in the bearings are larger and less prone to failure. IMO titanium CVDs aren't worth it though on the GT. I'm still running the original, 3 year old set of black steel CVDs and the are still fine.

[ross]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Planet, that switch looks like it will fit about anything except a Futaba or JR radio (I'm not sure which plug JR has so even those it might fit).

Ross, if you get those CVDs, get the 3/16" ones since you can use the 3/16"x3/8" bearings. The advantage to these over the 1/4" axles (which use 1/4"x3/8" bearings) are the balls in the bearings are larger and less prone to failure. IMO titanium CVDs aren't worth it though on the GT. I'm still running the original, 3 year old set of black steel CVDs and the are still fine.

Thanks atm, at the moment im still using dogbones, those titanium dogbones are 4mm think and are the same price has the MIP Shiney ones.


What do you all use to clean bearings?



ross

[atm92484_3]

I just use WD40.

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

I also use WD40.

[NewToNitro]

Does anyone make a throttle linkage kit for the GT.......I dont like the stock one

[atm92484_3]

http://www.gpmd.com/images/ofnc1724.JPG (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBM06&P=7)
click pic

Ofna Linkage kit blue: ofnc1724

[NewToNitro]

you sure that will work??????????????????????????

[atm92484_3]

Ya it will work. A ton of people are using them.

[ritchies rc10gt]

that is the linkage kit im using.it works great.alot better than the stock set

[DTRAX]

What are the benifits of that ofna linkage kit. How is it better than stock?

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

Hey Ross, Can you tell me the site i can find those titanium cvds at? Thanks a bunch!

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by DTRAX
What are the benifits of that ofna linkage kit. How is it better than stock?

you know that little clip that falls off of the stock linkage?with the ofne kit it has a bolt and nut to hold it together.plus you can get it in a few different colors.

[Railman]

Dtrax, The Ofna kit is cleaner, has less slop in it, is more dependable, & gives more options as to how to hook up the throttle & brake rod. It's not essential to have it, but it is a bit better, not to mention that it looks killer! Personally, I run a Losi servo arm, & my son runs his stock, but if I had the Ofna kit, I'd put it on.
Joe

edit: sp...Left & right brain halves can't get co-ordinated!

[ross]

Originally posted by spyderwrksN'=w=
Hey Ross, Can you tell me the site i can find those titanium cvds at? Thanks a bunch!


www.titaniumracing.com

Im not sure if they are available in the US. But they make turnbuckles, CVD's (4mm thick), Hingepins, Ball joints and screws and all are high quality titanium.


I am using the stock linkage set and solved the problem of the clip falling of my using a Traxxas part with a lock nut. I am still having problems with the stock linkage though because when it hit full throttle the brake rod hits the collet on the throttle arm. So when I move the servo horn around a few degree's to solve that problem the spring on the throttle rod fully compresse's so when hit brake it bends the throttle arm (on my carb) back because there is nothing absorbing the brake and its looks has if its about the snape. Will the Ofna linkage sort that problem out?



thanks


Ross

[Railman]

Ross, The brake rod is supposed to be bent to be way above the servo arm & throttle arm. Do you have the manual? Basically it should go way up at the servo, & then have a z bend to bring it back down once it's over the throttle linkage. Check the manual.
Joe

[ross]

Originally posted by Railman
Ross, The brake rod is supposed to be bent to be way above the servo arm & throttle arm. Do you have the manual? Basically it should go way up at the servo, & then have a z bend to bring it back down once it's over the throttle linkage. Check the manual.
Joe

thanks i have the brake rod exactly bent like it says in the manual, but it still hits the collet.


thanks


Ross.

[atm92484_3]

Try bending it a little more to make it work then. It doesn't have to be exactly like AE says. They just included it as a guideline.

[ross]

Ive completly rebuilt the linkage using a different servo horn (one like in the Ofna kit) and Ive fidled around the brake rod, and its works great now. It took a bit of doing though, adjusting stuff.


thanks for the help



ross

[hardcoreONE]

this thread is HUGE, and it would be a pain to read through it all, so sorry if someone already asked this, but is the crescenzi brake system really worth it? i have read lots of good stuff about it, but how is it, from a GTer to a GTer.

[atm92484_3]

I've heard that that system is good, but IMO, the stock brakes are more than enough if they are set up properly, especially offroad.

[hardcoreONE]

my breaks right now lock with no problem, which i know is not a good thing, but it does mean that they have good power, and all i have to do is tune them to break without locking. i heard that that is the good thing though, with the crescenzi system though, is you can get LOTS of breaking power, without locking the wheels. that would be nice. thanks for the reply, im going to try to keep up with this thread from now on, seeing as i am IN LOVE with my FTGT.

[TRXboy]

this board is a pain in the ass to use....

lets see, an hour later, lets see if this might acualy work.

communities.msn.com/_Secure/0KwD0XTwOcCieZtPScgEKAtVR37hDPRn*vb3kLEwbyL!1IUCvN w5Q2Pn!8XLSgJxqKRYD*Fv0MRc/Image116.jpg

[DR.GT]

hardcoreONE:

When set properly the stock FTGT brake system is great. I've never had any problems at all and my brakes work flawlessly. Also,thats what the pro AE drivers use!

:)

[losixxxdriver]

hey guys-
i have nt posted on here for a week or so. its still for sale! i was running it today and the strangest thing that i NEVER THOUGHT COULD happen actually happened! for some reason i tried starting it after pouring some gas in the carb, and it started RIGHT UP! but thats not what i was talkin about LOL! i run the road hawgs in the rear, and the directionals up front, i run on the asphault street in front of my house, and i try to slalem the dashed lines in the roads(LOL), and i was doing it, and after trying to pull it off of the road because a car was coming, i noticed that the steering was WAY MESSED UP! i drove over close to me, and i looked at the rod with the ball cup on it to adjust toe/camber and it tore the threads out of my shock tower! i was so suprised because one, i run the aluminum shock towers, and 2, i thought the plastic ball cup end would break befor ethe ball stud actually TORE THE THREADS OUT OF MY NEW ALUMINUM SHOCK TOWER! CAN YOU BELIEVE IT??>?? I SURE CANT! has this ever happened to anyone else? uess i should go to the shop and buy another one!
well, TTYL
kyle

[lositeamdriver]

losixxxdriver most of the top drivers dont use alumin parts like shock towers and a arma and stuff like that but that ball stud must be a mean one if it riped threads out of alumin..

[Lord Radeon]

thats why you use a LONG ballstud and a LOCKNUT on the other side... lesson learned :rolleyes:

[Super<S>Man]

I dont know about these fancy dancy aluminum shock towers but make sure that the tower was in fact threaded, not that the nut just fell off (which happens to me sometimes.) Also IF the shock tower was threaded you should have put thread locker on it! :D :p

[Super<S>Man]

I dont know about these fancy dancy aluminum shock towers but make sure that the tower was in fact threaded, not that the nut just fell off (which happens to me sometimes.)

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

does anyone know where i can get Titanium diff-outdrives in the US?

also, lemme see if i got this right....if i buy CVDS, it should be the 3/16 ones cuz the bearings are less prone to breakage, and if i get the 3/16 sized CVDS i need to get the larger RPM hub carriers and 3/16 bearings too???? DANG....thats like easily 70+bucks right there! i have the newer GT, does that have 1/4 sised bearings?

[TRXboy]

Spy, u dont need speical RPM hubs, if your truck came with CVD's then you have the 3/16 bearings, if it came with dog bones, you will have 1/4 bushings, all you need is 4 3/16 bearings, no need for any speical hub's. Im not to sure about the out drives tho.

http://communities.msn.com/_Secure/0KwAAADsOTyieZtPScgEKAouXT86cHYxNZZm7C0XXBESYvdvgK 6ZoJYC01gLxibB3YtK98YISmVs/Image124.jpg

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

kool, thanks man!

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

kool, thanks man!

[GTman]

the crescenzi brake system is great. It's just easier to use than the stock and it wont fade. I think it is worth it.

[ritchies rc10gt]

how good is the RPM rear bulkhead?im tired of breaking the stock ones.ive broken about 7 stock ones since i moved a few weeks ago.i ordered the RPM bulkhead last week but i just want to make sure it wont break so easy.

also what differences do the other 3 camber link holes on the rear bulkhead make?im still using the stock hole.

[atm92484_3]

I'm still using the stock bulkhead, but everyone who has used the RPM one has said its a million times better. Those other 3 holes are just more tuning options and they would mainly make a change in the how the camber changes relative to the suspension as it compresses.

[hitstuff II]

Are the bearings on the team built GT's 1/4 or 3/16? Thanx in advance:cool:

[59HemiHearse]

1/4... it uses dog bones...

[ross]

I have the Team Built, so if I were to buy CVD's I would need to get 3/16 bearings has well?


Thanks


Ross.

[atm92484_3]

Unfortunately you will need those 3/16" x 3/8" bearings. I'd reccomend just getting something cheap from Dynamite unless you want to pay $16 (or something like that) for 4 AE teflon sealed bearings.

[hitstuff II]

actually even though duratrax bearings ar cheap in $ they are still a good quality bearing, I have been running them on my electric trucks for 3 months without any problems.

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

I was going to buy some shiny Cvds yesterday, but my LHS ran out, i checked the price of the 3/16 bearings and they were 13 bucks......for 2! haha, its cuz they are teflon coated...thats why the extra $$....the guy said the rubber sealed bearings are 1/2 that much but they are always out of them..

[King Nothing]

Hey, I just picked up a pro-line f-150 '98 body for my GT to replace my beaten stock one. When I cut everything out, and tried to fit, I noticed the body holes do not fit, lengthwise. Anyone else have this prob?

[gedertr]

I believe that the 98 Pro-Line body was made to fit the original "tub" chassis (and also the new RTR's). This chassis was slightly shorter than the new Blue Aluminum Chassis (Team Versions). This is why the holes don't line up. Line up the rear holes first and drill. Next, line up the front posts and drill them out. The body will be a little short up front, but still looks cool. Hope this helps.

[King Nothing]

Oops, forgot to mention, I still run the old tub chassis. Since they had pre-specified holes, it's probably the mounts are on the wrong way or somethin'. I'll check it out tomarrow.

[dexters]

Hey people, long time no post. I've finally sent my receiver and servos to Hitec to have them check it all out. Alot of glitching going on my RTR GT.
Question for you all...Of course I have the RTR GT and was wondering what Receiver Box would work with it because the Lynx Receiver that comes with the RTR looks a little chunky. ATM, which one do you have on yours? I like that one. Thanks for the help

[dexters]

Hey people, long time no post. I've finally sent my receiver and servos to Hitec to have them check it all out. Alot of glitching going on my RTR GT.
Question for you all...Of course I have the RTR GT and was wondering what Receiver Box would work with it because the Lynx Receiver that comes with the RTR looks a little chunky. ATM, which one do you have on yours? I like that one. Thanks for the help:rolleyes:

[dexters]

Sorry for the double posts....damn computers

[atm92484_3]

I'm running the stock T-Maxx one from Traxxas. If you get RCCA, refer to the Pit Tips in the February 2002 issue to see my tip and more details (if not, I'll post).

[dexters]

ATM, I'll be sure to check it out. Does the Traxxs Receiver box fit right on the GT chassis or are there modifications required? Thanks again

[earnhardtjr]

Dexter I used ATm's Traxxas box mod and it was staright foward. I had to cut off the antane hold from the AE radio plate. Then I used Double sided tape and two screws to attach the box to the plate. Just make sure you give yourself a littel clearance between the box and the fuel tank. The hardest part was trying to route all the wires around the servos and to the box. I did add one other mod to mine. I had an old Kyohso F-1 lying around so I cut the Fiberglass T-brace and attached it to the throttle servo mounts to give me a little support to that servo. All toghter it was prety easy, took about an hour, and that included cleaning up my tools.

I have been pleased with the box and ATM had a great idea. Thanks ATM it works great.

Guy

[Jwelch]

I just picked up a trinity rx box yesterday, and it works very good. It's kinda tight in there though, and I had to really squeeze to get my fairly small JR receiver in there. But, it is functional. I ran my GT in a softball field for about 2 hours, and the entire car was under an inch of dirt. The receiver, however, stayed nice and clean. If you have a tiny receiver, by all means, get the Trinity box. It's well worth it.

[ritchies rc10gt]

i ordered the trinity box last week along with an RPM rear bulkhead and metal gear set for my servo.it should be here today

[atm92484_3]

I'm glad to hear you guys are finding it useful. Its good especially since the Trinity box can only fit micro RXes (like Jwelch pretty much proved), but the T-Maxx box can fit just about any RX under the sun.

[ross]

So the TMAXX box fits straight on without any mods? Also can it be easily and quickley accessed because when i race sometimes I have to do a crystal change and if youve got to fiddle about with zip ties and balloons it can take a while.



Ross.

[atm92484_3]

Pretty much 0 mods except for sawing the stock antenna holder off and drilling 2 screw holes. Its also pretty easy to access since it just takes removing 2 screws to get to the receiver.

[earnhardtjr]

Like ATM said its straight foward and nothing fancy you have to do. As for crystal swaps, at the last race I was in I had to swap crystals and it took my about 3 minutes to unscrew the box, replace the crystals, get all the wires lined up with the slot in the box and screw it back togther. Not to bad in my opinion.

[lositeamdriver]

well hope too see any at the sidewinder race in saugus ca im leaving later today so ill see you guys when i get back..

team vegas

[bubbastump]

does anyone live in maryland

[GTman]

i do

Bethesda MD

[Super<S>Man]

For those of you using the RPM front arms, how do you have it set up? Did you put a washer or anything in there to prevent the shock from wobbling?

[Got Speed]

I am getting rid of my RTR GT and getting a sweet factory team. I'll post pics when I get it. What weight oil should I run for off road?

[bubbastump]

25 front 30 back thats what 90% of us use at the track i switched to silver springs on front also man does it hook around the track


GTMAN you need to come to our track in pasadena www.m
drcracing.com (http://www.mdrcracing.com)
check out some of the pics we wil start racing this weekend weather permitting we are still workin on it had to slow it down in a few spots check out pasadena offroad speedway on the fuorm

[Got Speed]

You are running arms level, green springs rear, silver springs front? You don't have problems with it bottoming out?

[bubbastump]

arms r level also have big spacer in back
only bottom out if i dont clear the double

[Got Speed]

Hmm. Mine would bottom out on just about every jump with the green rear springs, silver front, arms level, and 35wt in front and rear.

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

maybe you guys can make this place come to life (more than it already is).......http://www.factoryteamgt.com.. It has a well organized message board, RC10gt specific.

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by spyderwrksN'=w=
maybe you guys can make this place come to life (more than it already is).......http://www.factoryteamgt.com.. It has a well organized message board, RC10gt specific.


Doesnt work for me :(


EDIT: Never mind it works now....you had a "." after .com

[MPTech]

Looks like it will be a nice site!

Can we get it without all the popups?!?! (I had about 8 while I was there)

[Jwelch]

Got Speed, those green springs suck. They;re way to soft for my tastes. I only use silver or blue now. Much better with 35wt oil.

[TRXboy]

welch - the blue springs have a softer rate then the green.....

[Super<S>Man]

I guess no one runs the RPM front arms? heres how I have mine setup...

[losixxxdriver]

i sold the motor out of my GT, and I was wondering how you get the header off? i got the pipe of real easy, but the little black things that look like they hold the header on, r those allen bolts or what? i need to get the header off in order to get to the allen bolts the actally hold the motor in!
thanks, kyle

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by TRXboy
welch - the blue springs have a softer rate then the green.....

Are you sure? The manual states that the green is harder. Plus if you look on the following page on Tower's site, they have the rates listed.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX2984&P=7

[Got Speed]

I think the blue are harder than the green and silver.
What do you use for the back? I am running silver in the front and it seems ok but the back is terrible.

[bubbastump]

i have silver front green back with big spacer see

[bubbastump]

here is the back

[bubbastump]

i do bottom out some times but some of it is from rocks on thye track we are almost rock free now lots of work has been done in the last few months race day in 11 hours n counting gots some fine tuning to do i also found how to lean out mix and keep coolim sure some of yall found this out also im gonna try it out during practice if it works im gonna do it for mains not worried bout heats

[TRXboy]

i wish my truck had a chassis that blue...

[losixxxdriver]

just wanted to let everyone know that!

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by TRXboy
i wish my truck had a chassis that blue...


ya me too!from my bumpstart hole all the way back is silver with no hint of blue.

as far as what i run for springs and oil;i run blue springs all around,with the alloy adjustable spring clamps.30 WT in front and 60WT in the rear.the rear is a little stiff,it goes nose down when the rear hits the end of the jump and the rear bounces up when it hits the ground.but it handles great with this setup.all the guys at the track like the way it handles.plus the 3*toe in and 1*anti squat rear arm mounts and the rear sway bar helped it alot.

[KIPPY]

hi i was wondering if i want to order rpm clawz for the front and rear of my ftgt from tower hobies could u tell me what part number they are

[TRXboy]

bubbastump - from the looks of that picture it dosent look like you have fule tubing around the Wire brace that holds the pipe on, put fuel tubing around it, much quieter, less radio interference, and it wont chop up your pipe.

[ritchies rc10gt]

does anybody know where i can get wheelie bars?i made a home made temp gauge last nite and tuned my CVX today.it likes to run in the 230*-250* range.it pulls bigtime wheelies now.it hasnt run this good since i first broke it in.its running great!!!

[bubbastump]

ok race is over 2nd in qual heat 1 4th in second problem#1 6th in a main 2nd problem
the associated rear rims ever see a hub break off rim happened to me on first round qual with less tham 1 min togo
had to put the gladiator2 tires onnot togood due to rain thay held too much mud and slowed it down round 2 slowed down after rain started well on to final round the a main started decent hit the sharks teeth break and break 4 more times those stupid ball sockets any ideas for alternate soulotions? oh yeah thanks fer the tip on mount fer pipe check out some of the pics on site below and my idea wow 20 degrees cooler
http://www.mdrcracing.com
ducted air cooler

[ritchies rc10gt]

bubba if you havent already tried the RPM ballcups get them.the only ballcups i pop off now are the ones on the steering blocks but i fixed that by using the shock rod ends with a washer on top and a nut on the bottom.

[fly boygt]

I have the RTR GT, could i buy an upgrade kit for it, how much?
and also my diff keeps coming loose on it, as i run it it loosens and i have to re adjust it. Also my throttle sticks and idles high when i start it up, the idle screw seems to be set low but i have to turn the throttle trim doown to keep it down. any help would be appreciated and i thank you in advance
:)
for the upgrade kit i mean a factory team chassis adn stuff

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

okey guys, i have an os cv .12 rotary carb and it wont start! Its a pull start and ive been pulling on that cord like 100 times with no go. Ive tried it 2 turns out, all the way in, 1 1/2 out ect and nothing werks. Ive even changed the plug (to an mc8). I did prime the carb a couple times and it started for like 5 seconds but then it died. Im gonna charge my glo plug and try again later....but other than that what am i missing??? Oh yeah, ALOT of green liquid is coming out of the muffler even though the fuel is clear. Bought the engine used w/ my GT

[atm92484_3]

Fly, AE doesn't make an upgrade. If you want an FT, just go and buy a new truck. It will cost just as much as buying all of the hop-ups. For the diff, make sure it is installed correctly (bolt access on passenger side of truck), or else the engine's torque will cause it to loosen. For the idle, make sure the low-end isn't too lean and the trims on the radio are allowing the carb to close all of the way.

Spyder, hows the compression? Is that plug a hot one? (If not, then replace it with a hot one like the A3.) The starting point for the truck is 2.5 turns on the high and flush with the end of that nut on the low-end. You might want to make sure your idle is in the right posistion.

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

"flush with the end of that nut on the low-end"
I dont see a nut on my low end, My low end appears to be a small flat head screw with a spring on it. Is that the low end needle? and the high end is the bigger one, in a sleeve that is more easily accessible...right? How do i set my low end if there is no nut on it like you said? Thanks

Oh yeah, you were right my idle was off, that explains all the fuel everywhere. Is it possible that the slightly open idle would cause the engine not to start cuz it was flooded or somthing? Thanks again.

[ritchies rc10gt]

spyder


the flathead screw with the spring is your idle screw.screw it in turns the idle up,lossen it and it turns the idle down.

look at the throttle arm on your carb.see the nut holding it on?inside that nut is the low end needle.turn it out richens the it.turning it in leans it.

yes the high speed needle is in the sleeve above the fuel line.

hope this helps you and good luck

[fly boygt]

Thanks atm, i just tore my whole truck down to claen it and infact i did have the diff in the wrong way, thanks for the help, and i'll get the throttle linkage figured out and see if i have it set up wrong, anad how much does the OFNA linkage go for?

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

does anyone have RPM A-arms in the rear? Cuz...it seems like they mixed up thier right from thier left. If i put the a arms where they say to put them, the shocks have to mount in the front of the A arm. The only way i see them werking correctly is if i switch the left one to the right etc.... how did you set them up?

[Got Speed]

If you look at the front of the truck they are correct but if you look at the back Left is Right and Right is Left.

[NewToNitro]

Can someone post a PIC on how the ofna linkage is set up? I just bought it and need to know what to do LOL

[dexters]

NewToNitro, goto Page 111 and you'll see Gokou setup. It has worked for me great. hope this helps

[DTRAX]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBM06&P=7

Can anyone show me or tell how to install this kit. Where is the brake rod? and i am not sure what the thing is with the one big center hole and two smaller holes on either side of it. If someone could post a picture of one put on a car that would be great. It will be used on a rc10gt with a os .15 hyper with a slide carb. thank you.

[Super<S>Man]

I had the same problem with the RPM rear arms, they were incorrectly marked looking from the rear. Here is a pic of my set-up (basically the same as Gokou's) sorry for the crappy image quality...

[wannabee]

dtrax- I just got done installing this linkage last night. This linkage doesnt come with the brake rod. I made mine from music wire.

[KIPPY]

life sucks when u break a part i hit my basket ball pole doing a whellie boke the front a arm oh well i ordered the rpm ones now i also roasted my bowties off during a burnout with my cvr in water they left black marks so i ordered gladiators but my question is do u have to put warshers on the rpm arms to keep your shock from wobbling

[Super<S>Man]

You don't really HAVE TO but it looks cool and works well. If you have already i reccomend that you buy some of the GS Racing washers that are indented, they work well and look really good. Go back a page or so to see how I have mine setup. (It's another crappy picture, LMAO). Right now I'm going to try and figure out how to get good pictures with the congounded camera, heh.

[KIPPY]

is it normal fo a ftgt with a 12 cvr lite flywheel and mip 4n1 to do dougnuts on really rough concrete with fresh bow ties

[atm92484_3]

Possibly, but it also depends on the stiffness of the rear shocks and the air/pavement temperature.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by DTRAX
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBM06&P=7

Can anyone show me or tell how to install this kit. Where is the brake rod? and i am not sure what the thing is with the one big center hole and two smaller holes on either side of it. If someone could post a picture of one put on a car that would be great. It will be used on a rc10gt with a os .15 hyper with a slide carb. thank you.


as soon as i get my film developed and my scanner working again ill post a pic of mine with the ofna linkage and OS .15 hyper with slide carb.


ill try to explain.

for my setup you have to have the non pullstart flywheel!it wont work with the big flywheel.

turn the carb so that you have about 1/4 inch between the flywheel and carb edge.use an L shaped servo horn.the end for the throttle linkage is gonna point forward,the end for the brake linkage is gonna face toward the right side of the truck at a 90 degree angle from the edge of the servo.all you need is a straight piece of linkage for the throttle.put the part the rod slides in on top of the servo horn with the bolt hole facing inwards and the flat edge facing the fuel tank.now you just need to rebend the brake rod you have to fit where it needs to go,or get a new piece of rod and make a new one.the 2 ends of the horn,the one facing torwards the back of the truck and the one facing the gas tank have to be cut off!hopefully this helps.i hope to be able to post a pic this week sometime.

[bubbastump]

kippy
if u get the gladiator 2 make sure you get ultra firm inserts the tire will wear more even

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

does anyone know if lexan can be dyed? also, anyone w/ an OS cv.12 PS...how many pulls does it take you to start it up cold? mine wont start by pull.....i gotta use a starter box .. also, ive noticed it only starts w/ throttle open a lil bit, but when i close it it dies....whats up?