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Super<S>Man
04-27-2002, 07:15 AM
When its warm out mine starts up right away, first 10 pulls. If its cold out I usually have to go start it in the car. Try heating it up first with a hair dryer.

atm92484_3
04-27-2002, 10:23 AM
Spyder, your idle might be too low or the low-end needle is too right since its shutting down when it goes back to idle. If you are not running an A3 plug (or similar), that could also be the problem. I've found #8s to not be hot enough for smallblocks.

steveb3
04-27-2002, 01:20 PM
almost got my gt ready to rock, FINALLY! The tip about the carb worked, got it fixed this is not my user name, mine is trxstr1961

if i knew how to change my user name :confused:

associatedGTguy
04-27-2002, 05:55 PM
Hey guys I have 2 GT's and i cannot get the alignment right on the spur gear and the clutch bell on both of them!!!! the spur gear on both sticks out a little farther than the clutch bell ...what do i need to adjust or do ?

illbreakit
04-28-2002, 09:00 AM
My god! I cant keep up with all these new posts:D I new the GT was popular, but I never thought we'd get this thread this big.

ritchies rc10gt
04-28-2002, 09:31 AM
Originally posted by associatedGTguy
Hey guys I have 2 GT's and i cannot get the alignment right on the spur gear and the clutch bell on both of them!!!! the spur gear on both sticks out a little farther than the clutch bell ...what do i need to adjust or do ?


see if the sprur gears move in and out of the transmission case.if they do thake the case apart and move the spacer from behind the topshaft to infront of the topshaft.this will move the topshaft further into the tranny case wich will move the spurs inward and line them up with the clutch bell.mine did this and thats how i fixed it

associatedGTguy
04-28-2002, 11:04 AM
alright i'll try that thanks

Jwelch
04-28-2002, 12:51 PM
Fly boy, AE maks only a chassis upgrade kit, but the other stuff (ti turnbuckles, bearings) are left out. I just bought one 5 minutes ago.

DR.GT
04-28-2002, 01:33 PM
i'llbreakit:

How's the new track doing in Kamloops. We are doing ours today here in Quesnel. A big change, as we'll be able to accomodate 1/8 scale with a 175' straight when needed. BTW, our trophy race is August long weekend, hope to see come up.

illbreakit
04-28-2002, 06:06 PM
Originally posted by DR.GT
i'llbreakit:

How's the new track doing in Kamloops. We are doing ours today here in Quesnel. A big change, as we'll be able to accomodate 1/8 scale with a 175' straight when needed. BTW, our trophy race is August long weekend, hope to see come up.

I'm not sure. I havent been to a carpet race for some time. The last indoor race is this SUN, so we'll be moving outdoors soon. I haven't even looked at my GT since last year(bummed cause of the track closure) They say we might not have an off road track ready this year(took 3 years to get the old one decient(sp?)
I might get that MIP header, a steering servo, and that ofna likage sset next payday. Oh and that Wiseco 10.5:1 piston I've been eyeing for my XR500R, then I'll be set.:cool: :D :)

PS I'll try to come for August. went to the ROAR nats last year in Kelowna(first big race ever, won the Cmain in Gas Truck) I had a real blast. worst sunburn in 8 years lol.

DR.GT
04-29-2002, 10:14 AM
I'llbreakit:

Yep, it was hot alright. I came out in 3rd place in the A. 1 hour on the drivers stand at 107* degrees was a brutal, then we had to go spot the 1/8 for 1/2 hr. The beer sure tasted good after though. LOL.

We got quite a bit of the track done yesterday, its 20' wider with bigger gas pits, and the electric straight is 100', 1/10 gas is 130', and the 1/8 is 175'. Gonna be lots of fun for sure!

Keep in touch...

losixxxdriver
04-29-2002, 01:03 PM
Hey all-
Just wanted to let everyone know that my GT is still for sale! RTR! Or rolling or anything in between. Fully hopped up! BLUE EERYTHING! Futaba Magnum Sport Radio System. I will sell everything I have for only $315 shipped!
Let me know if you are interested. There is pics of the truck on the RC10GT forum and they are on page 173 i think, maybe 174.
Thanks, Kyle blueoval557@hotmail.com

illbreakit
04-29-2002, 04:36 PM
138':eek: I'm gona have to gear up for that LOL

sosidge
04-29-2002, 04:39 PM
Anyone else find that the GT brake is a bit mild if you use the standard outer hole on the servo arm?

Should I move it to the inner hole - would the braking improve?

atm92484_3
04-29-2002, 05:55 PM
Moving it to the inner hole will reduce travel. Check and make sure it isn't possible to adjust it by moving the horn on the servo so there is more throw (its hard to explain but its the same way you can get exponential throttle on cars without using a computer radio).

sosidge
04-29-2002, 06:49 PM
Crikey you're right about the inner hole - for some stupid reason I got the workings totally backwards.

I'll have to see If I can set my linkage differently.

speedydave
04-29-2002, 08:00 PM
Can someone please help me with how to set up the MIP clutch? I had one in my truck, but I didn't build the truck(got it used...), so any help would be appreciated. I needed a new clutch because of a little incident at the track where, well, let's just say it's the first time I've ever seen a clutch bell fly through the air...

atm92484_3
04-29-2002, 09:20 PM
What do you need help with? You just need to put the shoes on in the direction you want (affects engaugement) and put the weights where you want them, and you're ready to go.

Planet-X
04-29-2002, 10:41 PM
My stock air filter for my new rtr gt has fallen off a few times(in crashes). This time I lost it(dark out side..hehe). I'd like to know if there is an air filter that is lighter/stays on better? I had the zip tie on nice and tight..but the damn thing still fell off.

Got Speed
04-29-2002, 11:07 PM
Planet X

Air filter brace-

Get a piece of music wire and bend it in the shape \_ with a loop at the bottom. Take the rear right screw off your servo. Put the bolt through the loop and tighten the bolt back down. Now poke a hole in the air filter with the other end of the music wire. I have done this and my air filter has never come off since.

MPTech
04-29-2002, 11:15 PM
Did anyone see this, from www.****************

Associated Electronics
Associated has taken the top-selling RC10GT RTR and has actually found a few ways to make it better. The new package has choices of red or blue bodies in a completely new design scheme. For the first time, Associated is also now bundling in a glow plug igniter and fuel bottle.

The truck itself now features the "Factory Team" extended chassis, full ball bearing set, metal gear servos, and a new radio system from Thundertiger. The new radio is more advanced than before featuring ATV controls as well as trim settings. All these enhancements to the product and the retail price has only gone up $20 from before. Look for the new GT RTR to hit the stores in May.

I know what I'm ordering next month! :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

MPTech
04-29-2002, 11:18 PM
it was from ****************, if ya didn't get it (just add the www. to the front).

an the chassis of the new GT RTR ..........


I can't stop grinning (I'm finally gettin' my Nitro!!!!!!!):D :D :D :D

steveb3
04-30-2002, 03:09 PM
well, I just spent 4 hours trying to get the ae .15 to run....NO LUCK:mad: did everything i could think of, even called ae for help, still didnt start, now its got me p*&^%ed off, gonna get me a o.s .12cvx-(s),new tank, dogbones outdrives,and then THAT should get to run :p if anyone wants this mill, drop me a line at: mwilson478@comcast.net

dexters
04-30-2002, 06:26 PM
Steveb3, how much are you asking for it? And what part of indiana do u live?

losixxxdriver
04-30-2002, 09:28 PM
Hey all-
I just had a simple question. I am having some difficulty selling my GT on here and also on Rcracing.com, but I am trying to sell it to buy a real car. I was wondering if anyone would be willing to put this thing on ebay for me? I would send you a description and some pics to make it easy on you. I know it costs a few bucks, and I will send you the money if you are willing to put it on there for me! Im not sure wether to put it on there as a RTR or everything seperate? If you would be willing to help out a fellow young rcer, PLEASE EMAIL me and let me know ASAP!
Thanks A Bunch!
Kyle

steveb3
04-30-2002, 10:23 PM
Originally posted by dexters
Steveb3, how much are you asking for it? And what part of indiana do u live?

im wanting 35 for it and i live in muncie:)

earnhardtjr
04-30-2002, 11:03 PM
Now I am really going to show dumb I am but I have a question. I was looking in a flyer that came the otehr day and in it was an AD for an .12 CV-R. Well I skimmed the ad real quick but when I saw it said "also availble in pilot shaft version" I thought what they heck is that. So my question is two part 1) What is a pilot shaft engine & 2) Where would you use them? 2b) How are they different from the so-called "standard" shaft version and what is their advantage or disadvantage.

Thanks

rcboy618
05-01-2002, 12:53 AM
well you usually use the .12 pilot shaft motors on touring cars, like serpents and mugens. if you want to see a picture of one look at .21 engines, most of them are pilot shaft. they're not all threaded like standard shaft.

rcboy618
05-01-2002, 12:55 AM
click here to see a pilot shaft (http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2001-01a.jpg)

speedydave
05-01-2002, 01:44 AM
ATM, which direction does the engine spin when you look at it head on(looking at it from the front, on the side with the spur/clutchbell)? I think it's counterclockwise. I'd think I'd want the clutch trailing, since it's a pretty low traction track, and indoors(high traction), I don't want any wheelies...so that'd mean that when the two pins are on the right and left, the shoe that goes on the left pin goes over the top of the flywheel nut, and the shoe on the roght pin would go under the nut. About weights, what would you suggest for a good all around setting? Thanks.

Wow! The new GT RTR is even better then before! That truck definitely looks like a great deal, and if I hadn't found the deal I did on my truck, and I was still looking for one, that'd sure make my mind up FAST!

sosidge
05-01-2002, 08:45 AM
Steveb3 - I don't know whether you're having a similar problem to me, but i found that the suggested settings were way to rich.

I've had to take it to 2 turns on the main needle, and 1 turn on the low needle to get it to start - you may want to start a little richer than that though if the negines brand new.

THis is using 16% nitro fuel.

Mac
05-01-2002, 02:38 PM
What is a REVERSE FILL FUEL TANK ?

dexters
05-01-2002, 03:00 PM
Mac

A reverse fill fuel tank is a Fuel Tank you can get for your GT. It enables you to be able to fill the tank through the Winshield. The cap is on the other side.

sosidge
05-01-2002, 03:24 PM
My joining of the Nitro ranks has been nothing but trouble...

First of all, the suggested settings for the AE 15 in my RC10GT were so far off that i couldn't get it to run or fire until I leaned out the bottom end buy a huge amount.

This messed up my whole break-in routine.

Then, when I'd got about half a dozen tanks through at gentle throttle, i took it out to try and set the main and low end needles.

I got the top end running quite nicely, with a good bit of smoke (or so I thought) through the rev range.

But I had to lean off the bottom end even more to stop it from stalling when I punched the throttle from a standstill.

Anyway, just as I felt I'd got a decent setting after about 12 tanks(although with a rather fast idle) (FYI the main needle's at 2 1/4 and the bottom needles at 5/8ths), the engine seized big time, smashing the con rod (as you'd expect) - and I can't even get the sleeve out of the engine block.

My suspicion is that I'd been running the engine a touch too lean without realising it - in fact I'd just richened it before it conked out.

Either that or the engine had a different kind of failure.

Any input?

CyberISda
05-01-2002, 07:08 PM
I replaced my original muffler that come with rc10GT rtr with this one

S Exh Muffler,TORQUE,Blue:GT
<img src="http://www.horizonhobby.com/shared/productimages/100/ASC1771-100.jpg">

Whats possibly the changes on the speed? Is it better for a tight tracks or straight tracks? Thanks in advance.

:confused:

fly boygt
05-01-2002, 08:38 PM
I have no idea about the pipe???? Never tried it so i couldn't tell ya, someone else should be able to help ya out though.

I am having problems with my throttle servo on my RTR gt, the gas works fine and dandy but the break dosen't, the servo will only turn a tiny bit? I checked to see if it was hitting anything and it wasn't? So any ideas what the problem might be?
:(

Railman
05-01-2002, 10:24 PM
Speedydave, If you assemble as you proposed, & add the weights to the trailing end of the shoe (the only way), you'll have the most popular, #2 setup. It works perfect for off road tracks. If you're missing the weights, you can just cut some wire, or drill bits to fit. Just make them the width of the shoe.
Joe

Railman
05-01-2002, 10:28 PM
Cyber, That's the new version of the std Assoc pipe. It gives outstanding low end punch, with decent top end. With some engines it gives a little too much on the bottom, but it's long been a very popular pipe with the factory racers.
Joe

steveb3
05-02-2002, 01:04 AM
the reason being...I couldnt get fuel to the carb... not sure why either...>:( tried everything I could think of too..decided it wasnt worth it and getting a new mill... thinking about the same as my nds has.....a os .12cvx(s) any other .12's i should know about
:confused:

Mac
05-02-2002, 08:31 AM
What should the operating temp be on a 12 cv?

ross
05-02-2002, 08:57 AM
Originally posted by Mac
What should the operating temp be on a 12 cv?

230F to 250F


Ross.

ritchies rc10gt
05-02-2002, 09:13 AM
Originally posted by steveb3
the reason being...I couldnt get fuel to the carb... not sure why either...>:( tried everything I could think of too..decided it wasnt worth it and getting a new mill... thinking about the same as my nds has.....a os .12cvx(s) any other .12's i should know about
:confused:


have you tried a new fuel tank?sometimes the tank will be fine when you check it for air leaks but still be junk.i had 3 tanks do that to me.

check out the dynamite engines.ive had three of them and really liked them.

steveb3
05-02-2002, 10:42 AM
never thought of getting a new tank alone, DOH!! (smaks himself in head) lol anyhoo..gonna go with the reverse fill tank,and some other stuff for now...a new mill will come later :)

sosidge
05-02-2002, 11:15 AM
Originally posted by sosidge
My joining of the Nitro ranks has been nothing but trouble...

First of all, the suggested settings for the AE 15 in my RC10GT were so far off that i couldn't get it to run or fire until I leaned out the bottom end buy a huge amount.

This messed up my whole break-in routine.

Then, when I'd got about half a dozen tanks through at gentle throttle, i took it out to try and set the main and low end needles.

I got the top end running quite nicely, with a good bit of smoke (or so I thought) through the rev range.

But I had to lean off the bottom end even more to stop it from stalling when I punched the throttle from a standstill.

Anyway, just as I felt I'd got a decent setting after about 12 tanks(although with a rather fast idle) (FYI the main needle's at 2 1/4 and the bottom needles at 5/8ths), the engine seized big time, smashing the con rod (as you'd expect) - and I can't even get the sleeve out of the engine block.

My suspicion is that I'd been running the engine a touch too lean without realising it - in fact I'd just richened it before it conked out.

Either that or the engine had a different kind of failure.

Any input?

Me and my local shop reckon this was caused by a mechanical failure in the piston area - the rest of the engine looks good - hopefully a replacement is on the way!

Super<S>Man
05-02-2002, 07:42 PM
well i just got my xxl today and got installed w/ my ttk radio box and it looks really sexy. ill post pics tomorrow if the light is ok

atm92484_3
05-02-2002, 09:10 PM
Originally posted by speedydave
ATM, which direction does the engine spin when you look at it head on(looking at it from the front, on the side with the spur/clutchbell)? I think it's counterclockwise.

Yes you are correct. You can have the shoes facing different ways to adjust engaugement. I have them on the same direction as the stock ones and with the weights (aka #2 setting).

Bolink1
05-02-2002, 10:43 PM
i know im not supposed to post this here,but since most of ya have GT's i figed i might be able to get a body for one,i could prolly pay $10 if you want cash,or i have a GT stinger,just header,and pipe though,and i have a Tamiya S-10 4wd i could trade ither one of those,i dont care what kind it is (not wanting to get ppl mad,but preferably not ford lol) i dont care if its scratched,chiping paint,doesnt matter,just needs to be a basher body,as long as its not cracked to bad,email me at snowbird@pokynet.com

losixxxdriver
05-02-2002, 10:47 PM
Hey all-
I have a question. I sold the O.S. Max .12 motor out of my GT, and now a guy is looking at buying my truck ONLY! I have probably about $200 in spares that he does not want, but I dont want to have all of these parts and not be able to use them on anything?!?!?!?! If I posted everything I have on here, would some of you consider buying some things? I will defenitely have reasonable prices! I sold my BRAND NEW O.S. Max .12 CV-RX for only $70 shipped today and it sells for $180 in Tower! Just to give you an idea on my prices! i just need the money for my real car! LMK IF YOU WOULD BUY PARTS FROM ME!
Thanks, Kyle

steveb3
05-02-2002, 11:34 PM
lets chat mwilson478@comcast.net

spyderwrksN'=w=
05-03-2002, 09:09 PM
hey losixxx,
do u have a set of mip cvds and 3/16 bearings? what kind of stuff do u have?

losixxxdriver
05-03-2002, 09:16 PM
wait... i do have some bearigns but i dont think they r fdor the GT, they r for my old Losi truck that i sold. I have a Atomik pre painted body. NEVER used $35 shipped, i have Square Fuzzie tires on yellow AE wheels. $25 shipped and a bunch of little stuff, tools, body clips, etc.
just ask for something and i will see if i have it
thanks, kyle

Bolink1
05-03-2002, 11:17 PM
hey losixxxdriver, got any cheap used bodys?

losixxxdriver
05-04-2002, 01:24 AM
Hey all-
Here is a list of all the GT parts that I have:

1. Atomik PrePainted Body-The black one with green flames"BAJA" style-$35 shipped
2. AE Tuned Pipe -$15 shipped
3. AE Tuned Manifold-$15 shipped (buy manifold and pipe for $25 shipped with blue coupler)
4.250cc Fuel Bottle-$1 plus shipping or $5 shipped
5. Pack of ball studs, pay for shipping
6. MIP CVD Rebuild Kit, some contents are missing - $10 shipped
7.Pack of body clips-pay for shipping
8. Wheels Nuts-pay shipping
9.Antenna Tube-pay shipping
10.NIP Yellow AE Front Wheels-$6 shipped
11. Brand New Pro Line Square Fuzzie Tires mounted oon Yellow AE Wheels-$20 shippd
12. Extra Spur Gear-$1 plus shipping
13. Roll of 2 face tape for mounting recievers-pay for shipping
14. Small Assortment of screws-$8 shipped
15. Almost NIB Futaba Magnum Sport Radio System (all there)
16. Needle nose pliers-$2 plu shipping
17. Set of alens wrenches-sizes 5/64 to 3/16 and some other ones-$4 plus shipping
You can email on any of this stuff or I will sell EVERYTHING listed here for $75 shipped to your door! LMK IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN ANYTHING!

Thanks, Kyle blueoval557@hotmail.com

KIPPY
05-04-2002, 10:16 AM
well my dad wont let me upgrade my gt because he thinks ive spent to much on rc so i was wondering if you could tell me any tips to help my car go faster:::confused:

atm92484_3
05-04-2002, 05:53 PM
Just make sure its properly tuned and maintained; that should be enough to keep its performance from deteoriating.

spyderwrksN'=w=
05-05-2002, 01:38 AM
hey guys, my fly wheel comes loose when i try to bump start my OS.12.... how do i prevent this? And also, i just sanded and painted the bottom of my chassis w/ black heat resistant paint...it looks sweet but the paint gets fudged when fuel gets on it...any ideas on how i could keep the paint from getting messed up or somthing? how much would it cost to get the whole chassis anodized black?

BjS
05-05-2002, 09:47 AM
woo hoo! got my new GT today:D
currently im gonna get an OS .12 cv-rx engine I was told that the OS cv hyper .15 would last longer by a guy at my LHS but it does sacrifice power, if this is true how much longer will the hyper last if both engines are used the same. also with the GT in stock form how fast will it go with these engines.:) thanks for any help

atm92484_3
05-05-2002, 11:38 AM
Spyder, try using threadlock on the clutchnut when you reinstall it. Also check and make sure the flywheel isn't worn out so the clutchnut cannont grip it. If you look around you should be able to find someone who annodizes, but other than that, I have no idea how to keep the paint on since it isn't fuel proof (obviously lol).

BjS, the 12 CV-RX would last longer as long as it wasn't abused (ran too lean). Just the fact that its ABC (chrome sleeve) instead of ABN allows for this.

KIPPY
05-05-2002, 11:56 AM
hey i got a question when i spin the tires on my gt and they start to slow down i hear a grinding coming from the clutch bell iam running the 4n1 too

spyderwrksN'=w=
05-05-2002, 01:13 PM
my engine just WONT start..... i got it in a trade so i dont know how much fuel has been through it, but i think it is in need of a new piston and sleve....the fuel coming out of the pipe was green and now it is now yellow....whats next purple? hahaha. do u think buying a new piston and sleve is worth it or should i just buy a new motor like a fantom .12 or the new ofna .12 with 1.39 HP.....

spyderwrksN'=w=
05-05-2002, 02:31 PM
hey, i saw a dynamite .12 for sale...is this a good motor? it has a red head...

losixxxdriver
05-05-2002, 06:01 PM
Hey Spyder-
I have a O.S> Max .12 CV-RX motor! Only had about 1/2 gallon thru it. GREAT COMPRESSION! Its a pull start and it has the pull start unit on it. You can ask anyone on here, this is probably one of the best .12 motorsa out there. Sells new at Tower for $180 I will sell for $75 shipped to your door.
LMK ASAP!
Thanks, Kyle

spyderwrksN'=w=
05-05-2002, 08:07 PM
xxxlosi, whats your email? mine is Gratefuldead6565@aol.com. im thinking about buy you motor. does it start right away? tower sells em for 180? theyre on crack.....hahahaha

Leinzey
05-05-2002, 09:08 PM
My clutch bell and spur gear are making a grinding noise when the truck rolls, but the gear mesh is fine. I haven't yet run my truck, so do they just break in once the truck is run a few times? Thanks.

atm92484_3
05-05-2002, 09:15 PM
I'd say yes. Just make sure there aren't any little pieces of anything in the gears and everything (like the clutch) is set up right.

losixxxdriver
05-05-2002, 10:10 PM
spyder, u got mail on my motor.

lositeamdriver
05-06-2002, 12:28 AM
losi the cvr runs from $120 to $149 dollars at tower!

losixxxdriver
05-06-2002, 12:34 AM
losi-
here is a link to the motor thast I have, and it has a BLUE DURATRAX HEAD! : http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBZ18&P=0
r u interested in it?
thanks, kyle

spyderwrksN'=w=
05-06-2002, 02:11 AM
a lot of you guys run os.12cvs, who here runs some CRAZY motors like the high end novarossis, mugens, collarris? whats up? i know saxton runs a crazy a** novarossi....haha. what do u guys think of these motors? i also like the fantom nitros, they have 1.15 and 41k!

Got Speed
05-06-2002, 11:51 AM
That is a CV-X.

A CV-X for $170:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

lositeamdriver
05-06-2002, 12:15 PM
this is the same exact motor as yours for 109.99 no diff and don tell me there is i have been racing for a long time and i run a cv and the tr and nova rossi motors .. i run with saxton every weekend!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBZ17&P=7

dexters
05-06-2002, 01:22 PM
Hey guys, I've asked this before but can't find it. Whats the best gear setup for the GT with a AE .15. Size on Clutch and Spur gear? Mine seems like it can go alot faster but just doesn't have the gears. Revs out to quick. Thanks for the input

atm92484_3
05-06-2002, 08:13 PM
Try going down a few teeth on the spur gear then. There really isn't a perfect gearing. A lot of it has to do with the tuning and conditions you're driving on.

jgdvrs
05-08-2002, 05:38 PM
For what it's worth...
I run a 62 x 18 combo with my OS 15 CV-R...still might go taller as I do get some wheelies every now and then...engine has more power than I can use (key letter there is "I")

Jamie
Noise, Smoke, Spinning Wheels...ain't Nitro Great!

Planet-X
05-09-2002, 09:55 AM
Would you guys recomend Mashers(tires) for bashing? I figured it would help me get over some larger obstacles and thicker grass.

chachi
05-09-2002, 11:19 AM
i recently rebuilt the shocks on my stock rtr, and lubed all the moving parts of the arms with tri-flow. i used 40wt oil in the rear. all settings are stock (i.e. preload, spring, etc.). now when i compress the rear end, it will not rebound unless truck is lifted off the ground. anybody have an idea why? is the oil weight too heavy (they recommend 30)? do the shock mounting ball joints have to be lubed to total smoothness?
thanks.

atm92484_3
05-09-2002, 03:52 PM
Since the oil is heavier, it takes more force to lift the truck and the springs are probably not hard enough. Either get stiffer springs or add some preload spacers to make the current springs harder.

Planet, I wouldn't get the Mashers. I've seen quite a few reports of people breaking parts since the tires are so big they prevent the truck from bottoming out and the shocks/shock towers take the full force of the landing.

Planet-X
05-09-2002, 06:18 PM
I think I'll get a T-maxx...Who wants to buy my gt?

Jizzon
05-09-2002, 07:09 PM
I got a RTR GT and its pretty much dead now i ran it for bout 5 months then jus trashed it but i miss it and i wana get back into offroadin.

I have always liked the XXX-NT then when i saw the XXX-NT sport for only 330 i thought that was the way to go! but i dont know if itll be as good and as strong as a GT..... SO iwas thinking that or i would get a FTGT and put my 15CV short shafted in it and put my lynx from my RTR on it and get a heavy duty steering servo.

I know the FTGT is a great truck but i can go cheaper and get the XXXNT sport. I keep leaning towards the FTGT cuz i already got a spare GT so i wouldnt have to go buyin parts and stuff i would have them rite here. In yalls opinion which one should I consider??

Thanks
-----------------------------------------------------------
J to tha Izzon

Planet-X
05-09-2002, 07:22 PM
Maybe you should buy my GT?
Send me an e-mail if you are interested..
larry.s@sympatico.ca

bubbastump
05-09-2002, 07:46 PM
hey hey hey my beater is a rocket i did a lil work on it

os.12 cv with
duratrax stage 2 ciiling head
dynamite 45 deg air filter
stock 66tooth spur
16 tooth pinion
duct cooling system (droped 20 deg )


inly problem is when i was running the 1st heat darn rim broke right around the hub had to switch to gladiator2 too much bite still gotta buy new rims n tires

but man did that duct cooler work i was runnin 225 with no body usualy runs warmer with body on but after i installed the batdcs58-01 i was runnin 204 after a long high speed run
thinkin about adding a batdcs38-01 also or getting the batfas12.01 to help out and get a lil bit more speed ill try it out saturday at the track (batfas12-01) and see how it works

bubbastump
05-09-2002, 07:49 PM
hey jizzon
you should goto the track and check it out you will want to start racin sooner than u think
check out the web sitehttp://www.pasadenaoffroad.com
im sure you will like it

ritchies rc10gt
05-09-2002, 08:39 PM
oops i was a little late with this post

ritchies rc10gt
05-09-2002, 08:44 PM
i know some people boil the arms to make them a little less stiff so they dont break as easy.will this work on the steering blocks?i raced last weekend and broke 6 steering blocks on one side.i really dont want to put aluminum blocks on it but if thats the only way to keep from breaking them than ill do it,but i want the cheaper route first

lositeamdriver
05-10-2002, 12:09 AM
richie how do you broke parts i have had my lastest ftgt for 3 months never broke any thin have been racing for 3 years but i mean and i race at western rc where the track is very roung and i never brake any thing do you crash alot?

ritchies rc10gt
05-10-2002, 12:32 AM
most of the parts that break usually break while im bashing in my yard or street.but the steering blocks that are breaking break during a race.ive been having a problem with keeping the truck straight at high speeds.it hits small bumps and just takes off to one side or the other.plus i was running captured ball ends on the outer steering rods.wich that doesnt help either.plus the front end is way out of alignment,and i think i have it figured out but i havent run it yet.plus i dont think the 3 degree toe in rear arm mounts help much either,but everybody else runs them and thier trucks handle better than mine.i am constantly correcting it on the straights.plus i have a serious push condition,if i come into a corner at high speed it will slide the front tires.at low speed i have serious over steer,it will spin out in the corners,wich in a few of the corners the oversteer helps.im waiting for the track to open all day so i can go there for a whole day and just keep changing things till i find something that works.right now its only open from 3PM to 7PM cuz the kids that work there are still in school during the day.i can get a good jump on everybody from take off but in the corners they will pass me,but as soon as i hit a straight i can blow right by them untill i hit another corner.i pretty much got the jumping figured out,i usually get almost perfect landings now but as soon as i hit a corner im done.it is actually very aggravating cuz i know i have the faster truck and can do real good if not win but the handleing sux.any ideas on setups i can try?i run on moist packed dirt with very rough texture.ive got my gearing all set i just need to get the suspension set up right.and if i boil the steering blocks will it help and how long do i boil them for?I want to win a few races this year.any help is greatly appreciated!thanx in advance.

lositeamdriver
05-10-2002, 02:18 AM
richie i get a new gt every 5 months so i mean i have tons of parts but to correct your push try this set up

30 wt rear with green sprins #1 piston arms level
35 wt front blue for more steering silver for less springs #2 piston arms level

and if you want less over steer try the 20 deg castor blocks!

i have been running for ae for 2 years so you can email me and ill help you more!


bubbahatton@lvcm.com

ritchies rc10gt
05-10-2002, 02:50 AM
ok thanx ill try that and let you know how it works.if you think of anything else i can try please let me know.


you can email me if you want at grandprix66455@aol.com

lositeamdriver
05-10-2002, 07:08 PM
oops silver for more blue for less my bad!?:rolleyes: :D ;) :p :cool:

bubbastump
05-10-2002, 10:11 PM
howdy all well i went to the track today to run a few tanks i realized truly how much power i have special thanks to TIM the toolman Allen (MORE POWER) a lil os.12cv blew away a mugen on the back stretch made my friend feel bad he spent 200 bucks for the mugen i spent 70 bucks for the os and i out run him besides he runs a losi xxxnt i also need to soften front shocks and get new rear tires anyone got recomendations for rear tires on a packed clay track???

Railman
05-10-2002, 11:20 PM
RichiesGT, When was the last time you rebuilt your diff? Does your drag brake release all the way before the throttle hits (before clutch engages)?
These are ther most common answers to your problem. The toe isn't the problem, it's what gives more rear traction, not less. If the diff is too tight or crunchy (rebuild time), your truck won't turn or go straight.
Joe

ritchies rc10gt
05-11-2002, 12:08 AM
the dif was rebuilt the night before the race.nice and smooth,no gritty feel or crunchy noises before or after the race.and my drag brake is very minamal.it has just enough drag brake to slow it down when i let it go back to idle.it releases well before the clutch engages.

bubbastump
05-11-2002, 04:16 PM
ok did some thinking rear shocks stay the same soften front shocks has anyone here tried back tires on front and if so how do they handle?

lositeamdriver
05-11-2002, 04:51 PM
bubba i run the treadz protoypes tire on the front which are all most like hole shots so if that anwsers your quesiton if gives alot more steering and i usley run treaz protoype stepins in the rear you cant buy the tires but you can run the treadz cutters which are very good or try hole shots up front!

losixxxdriver
05-11-2002, 05:32 PM
hey all-
FINALLY sold my facory team GT, and I have some spare parts to sell now. Here is a list of what i have:
O.S. Max .12 CV-R with blue duratrax head, pull start, sldie carb, and pipe and manifold, and also a pull start engine mount -$60 shipped.
Atomik Pre-Painted Body-$20 shipped(it is all black with green flames)
250cc Fuel Bottle-will throw in with any other parts u buy
NIP Yellow AE Front Wheels-$6 shipped
BRAND NEW NEVER RUN Square Fuzzie Tires on NEW yellow AE wheels-$25 shipped
Fuel Tank- NO LEAKS OR ANYTHING!-$5 shipped
I would like to sell everything as one for $85 shipped, but I MIGHT seperate!
Thanks, Kyle blueoval557@hotmail.com

losixxxdriver
05-11-2002, 05:39 PM
hey all-
TYPO- that is $85 shipped WITHOUT motor or $120 shipped with motor~!

SORRY

ritchies rc10gt
05-11-2002, 08:32 PM
Originally posted by lositeamdriver
richie i get a new gt every 5 months so i mean i have tons of parts but to correct your push try this set up

30 wt rear with green sprins #1 piston arms level
35 wt front blue for more steering silver for less springs #2 piston arms level

and if you want less over steer try the 20 deg castor blocks!

i have been running for ae for 2 years so you can email me and ill help you more!


bubbahatton@lvcm.com


what holes on the shock towers and arms?

lositeamdriver
05-12-2002, 03:32 AM
ok for more side bite run the shocks on the inside hole on shock tower and inside hole on arms for less side bite and more of a forgiving rear ened run just oppisite

ritchies rc10gt
05-12-2002, 09:23 AM
ok thanx.sorry to be a pain in the ***** but how much camber front and rear should i try?should i set camber with just rims or with tires on the rims?thanx

bubbastump
05-12-2002, 09:43 AM
rims dont trust tires sometimes they arend perfectly round expecaily with the foams

ritchies rc10gt
05-12-2002, 09:48 AM
thanx i kinda figured that.i set the rear with the guage with tires on the rims.i have one tire pointed in too much and one pointed out too much

bubbastump
05-12-2002, 10:15 AM
i havent realy set my camber and toe much only bye eye tryin to save up for some good tools in a few more weeks im gonna get real serious about it and fine tune and tweak chasis you need to take a road trip and check out our track and race one day roar will be holding a race there one day in august

ritchies rc10gt
05-12-2002, 10:52 AM
dude id love to take a ride and meet some of the people here but maryland is a little too far for me to travel

nolanr0413
05-12-2002, 12:22 PM
bubba when are you gonna put up a pic of the duct thing for the gt.i really want to see it.

bubbastump
05-12-2002, 06:08 PM
before the weekend i been busy havent brought it in from truck yet but dont worry it will be done shortly old lady been yelling at me to clean out truck i might bring it in tonight if the fish arent biting and with my luck no fish will bite like allways
:(

SKYNFAN
05-13-2002, 09:45 AM
I'm getting ready to replace the CZ-Z in my GT with the .15 CV-R(S), has anyone tried one of these newer engines?

Thanks in advance,

skynfan (loyal skynyrd(and R/C) fan):)

Bolink1
05-13-2002, 01:10 PM
hey how much ground clearance does your GT's have,personally i like MT's better,but theres no real good 2wd nitro MT out,so i got a GT that ive had for about 1 year,but i decided to try and get some more ground clearance,according to tower it has 2in stock,mine now has 3in with stock tires,and about 3 1/2 in with M2K's that i ahve on it now,i havent been able to run it since i "lifted it" all i did was drill a few holes in the shock tower lower then the old ones,and trim some of the susp. arms away,as soon as i get my gears ill try it out,i stripped the idler gear,and my diff gear has been melted for awhile now,lol

atm92484_3
05-13-2002, 03:59 PM
Sky, I'm running a 12 CV-R in my GT. I love it; its reliable and still easy to tune. I could imagine this is exactly how the 15 CV-R is.

Bolink, the GT isn't meant for high ground clearance (come to think of it the NMT isn't either); its handling will get really messed up. Anyways, I have around 1 3/4 inches of ground clearance on mine.

badhoopty
05-13-2002, 04:52 PM
Originally posted by Bolink1
hey how much ground clearance does your GT's have,personally i like MT's better,but theres no real good 2wd nitro MT out,so i got a GT that ive had for about 1 year,but i decided to try and get some more ground clearance,according to tower it has 2in stock,mine now has 3in with stock tires,and about 3 1/2 in with M2K's that i ahve on it now,i havent been able to run it since i "lifted it" all i did was drill a few holes in the shock tower lower then the old ones,and trim some of the susp. arms away,as soon as i get my gears ill try it out,i stripped the idler gear,and my diff gear has been melted for awhile now,lol


just make sure your dogbones are still securely located within the outdrives at full droop, if they aint you will be poppin them out on a regular basis and thats just no fun at all.

=badhoopty=

Bolink1
05-13-2002, 05:06 PM
they look ok,but i need to run it too find out,should have my gears by friday,i wish there a LHS closer than 60 miles!!

KIPPY
05-13-2002, 10:59 PM
hey guys i think i might be able to get a new pipe its between the 360 stinger and the cvec if i get the cvec will i have to change my pipe mount

badhoopty
05-14-2002, 03:31 PM
ok, i just bought a team chassis to replace my rtr chassis.

anybody know why the rtr chassis is a good third thicker than the team one? its thicker to the point where its easily noticeable, and it really irks me that my new team chassis aint as sturdy as the rtr one.

i can flex the new team chassis on my knee quite easily, but when i try with the rtr chassis it wont bend even a little bit. i was just wondering if any of you guys knew if associated has changed the thickness of all thier gt chassis' or if the rtr version is just thicker.

fyi, i bought the rtr chassis right when they came out to replace the black tub version before i knew their was a length difference between the team and rtr.

have any of you guys tweaked or bent the team chassis?

=badhoopty=

lositeamdriver
05-14-2002, 04:10 PM
badhoop just run the team chassis its fine it bend thats why you run the trinity tranny brace i strip spur gears all the time but i mean it lighter too so it makes the car faster and handle better!

atm92484_3
05-14-2002, 08:58 PM
The Trinity brace will only fit the old tub chassises (I'm not talking about their mounts that are just like the AE ones except blue either). The Team chassis shouldn't bend more than the RTR one either. Its thinner though since its made out of a higher grade of aluminum. I've yet to bend/tweak the Team chassis on my GT so I can promise its fine.

Kippy, you can probably use the stock pipe mount with the CVEC.

ritchies rc10gt
05-14-2002, 10:36 PM
Originally posted by atm92484_3
The Trinity brace will only fit the old tub chassises (I'm not talking about their mounts that are just like the AE ones except blue either). The Team chassis shouldn't bend more than the RTR one either. Its thinner though since its made out of a higher grade of aluminum. I've yet to bend/tweak the Team chassis on my GT so I can promise its fine.

Kippy, you can probably use the stock pipe mount with the CVEC.


i think hes talking about the blue trinity rear brace.you know the plastic brace from the top of the tranny case to the rear bulkhead.the trinity brace is aluminum and uses all 4 holes in the top of the tranny case instead of the 2 rear holes.

although i have bent my RTR chassis in the rear between the engine and tranny,but the only time it noticeable is when i take the engine off.when i put the engine back on it straitens out but it is a pain to set the gear mesh though

steveb3
05-15-2002, 09:37 AM
Well, finally got to put my old tank on the rtr, NOPE not even that worked, so im getting rid of the.15 in it. any one want it:confused:

In other news, i did get the reverse fuel cell for my nds,plus bearrings, so my NDS IS FINISHED!! yipppeee!!:) im running the foams that came with it, man is it quick!:cool:

badhoopty
05-15-2002, 01:36 PM
well everything on the truck is alloy besides the stock tranny case and rpm arms, and after i got it all put on the chassis it doesnt flex. for some strange reason i had to file the spur gear side hg toe mount to provide clearance for the spur gear, while on my old blacktub and rtr chassis it worked fine. seems like they moved the a-arm mounts in a tad.

its all good tho, the truck is pretty darn nice, i just saw that the team chassis was thinner and had horrible flashbacks of the oh so crappy blacktub flex woes. thanks for the replys.

=badhoopty=

btw, if you havent tried the crescenzi brake yet its a must have. besides aftermarket turnbuckles and ballcups its the best hop-up available in my opinion. heres the link:

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/

steveb3
05-15-2002, 05:17 PM
Found out a few things today plus a good lesson learned
1: low speed setting on my .15 was WWWAAYYY off gonna give it one more chance:rolleyes:

2: fuel+receiver=runaway:(
3:runaway+curb=broken crystal:(
4:receiver cover+good wiring=fun for me:)

LESSON learned :)

now if i could only figure out where i can get a retun spring at,id be happy:(

southbornracer
05-15-2002, 06:52 PM
i have also found that fuel in the on/off switch equals runaway.had to do away with the switch right away. have a ?what is the best clutch shoe combination to run on a med. size track.thanks................billy

OldskoolGT
05-16-2002, 02:09 AM
Bolink1,

You are gonna end up breaking the shock towers with the suspension lifted like that because the suspension is gonna bottom out (transfering all the stress to the shock towers)instead of the chassis hitting the ground.


losixxxdriver,

IS the engine you have for sale a CV-R or just a CV? You have referred to it as a CV-R several times, but then posted a link to a CV engine.

bubbastump
05-16-2002, 11:47 PM
losi makes a throttle return kit works well

wannabee
05-17-2002, 08:50 AM
Has anyone tried heating a lexan body with a heat gun to reform it a little? The body is allready painted. The exhaust coupler and pipe push the body out a little. This causes the truck to look a little tweeked and the rear wheel can rub it if the suspension is fully compressed.

steveb3
05-17-2002, 01:38 PM
I have a gt that needs the following out drives and axels
Now i also have a elect ds which needs a dog bone uh, now what could you do to get the gt running?? :confused:





DOH!!!!(smakes himself in back of head):roll eyes:





YEP you guessed it, and i didnt!! So for the last 4 months they have been sitting here laughing at me for not seeing this before now! Even my room mate saw this Now i really do feel low!!!:D :rolleyes: time to get to work!!
will let you know how it goes :D

atm92484_3
05-18-2002, 12:00 AM
Wannabee, I tried that before and it did more harm than good. The body sort of like bent towards the heat and got kind of messed up.

CyberISda
05-18-2002, 02:17 PM
My friend bought a Nitro Star .15SS for RC10GT engine for his RUSH unfortunately the crank shaft is too small for the HPI Rush. I was wondering if the AE.15 egine that comes with RTR Crankshaft would fit to the HPI.15SS engine?

atm92484_3
05-18-2002, 03:03 PM
I seriously doubt it will since the engines are made by totally different companies. Even if it did though, it is probably save to say the timing would be off. Lastly, if it did fit/work okay, there would still be a short crankshaft rather than the long one needed for the Rush (the AE 15's crankshaft has a sort of pilotshaft that replaces the clutchnut but its not the same size as regular SG shafts).

steveb3
05-18-2002, 04:38 PM
well, the only things that worked are the axels, the diffs are too small :(

steveb3
05-18-2002, 04:38 PM
well, the only things that worked are the axels, the diffs are too small :( so now im still needing outdrives, body, and a engine:mad:

speedydave
05-18-2002, 10:42 PM
Woooo! Who says GT's can't compete? I just got home from racing today...qualified 2nd, finished first! woooohoooo! hehe, alright, just felt like sharin the happiness :) I love this hobby :D

steveb3
05-19-2002, 10:45 AM
Good for you, glad to hear that these trucks CAN win. keep up the good racing and HAVE FUN TOO!:)

fly boygt
05-19-2002, 12:07 PM
Good work speedy dave, thats good to see that you are winning with the gt, i have a gt but there is no track yet, but the hooby shop said there should be one by the end of june so i hope to get racin.:)

lositeamdriver
05-19-2002, 04:20 PM
speeddave glad to hear that well at our track westrern rc home of silver state losi in pro class is about 9:1 and in sport about 4:1 and in novice losi is about1:5 asssociated i run in pro along with jason ayers factory assoc guy and richard saxton we try to keep asociated wining which jason and saxton do but i finsh about 4 every time in sport assoc and losi allways battle it out but losi wins most of the time and in novice its all associated!

Leinzey
05-19-2002, 10:11 PM
I need alittle help here. I don't think my 12 cvr came with the two shims i'm supposed to use for the clutch assembly. How thick should they be? Thanks.

nolanr0413
05-20-2002, 02:38 PM
i finally finished my aluminum gt with a ofna/picco .21. The car isnt too bad. Its still breaking in but not bad. I am running a 17-66 and i have a pipe with a lot of to end. It seems like it is slipping when i floor it. The slipper is fully tight and the tranny is metal ,so its probably the diff, the car doesnt chew up gears . they are the stock gears. plastic spur and metal clutch. Its seem to have litte low end , but thats the pipes fault, and the car being so heavy.

Got Speed
05-20-2002, 03:08 PM
Could anyone scan the page in the FT tub chassis manual of the engine mount? Thanks.

sanseric
05-22-2002, 12:24 PM
I ran my 4 tanks of fuel is there any thing i should know before takeoff of flight rc10gt newbie

badhoopty
05-22-2002, 01:15 PM
Originally posted by sanseric
I ran my 4 tanks of fuel is there any thing i should know before takeoff of flight rc10gt newbie

tune for smoke and make sure you keep an eye on the temps. dont do any prolonged w.o.t. runs either, baby it around the yard or whatever getting on it for a very short amount of time. (i get off the gas right after the pipe kicks in). after every tank i let the motor cool back down with the piston at the bottom of its stroke. repeat that for at least a few tanks, then you can start leanin it out for performance.

at least thats how i do it.

have fun, and always tune it so you can see some smoke comin out of the exhuast while yer runnin it. seeing no smoke is usually pretty bad, even tho the engine might be runnin faster no smoke dictates a lean mix.

=badhoopty=

sanseric
05-22-2002, 01:50 PM
thanks a lot trying it out when i get off work let you know how it goes:D

Thumper1921
05-22-2002, 03:18 PM
If anyone is looking for a new painted body for their rc10gt, check out Team Associated's web site. Already painted and ready to go for $19.99 plus $5.00 shipping.... Thought that was a nice deal!

sanseric
05-22-2002, 06:47 PM
thanks ill check it out:)

bubbastump
05-22-2002, 11:06 PM
Originally posted by fly boygt
Good work speedy dave, thats good to see that you are winning with the gt, i have a gt but there is no track yet, but the hooby shop said there should be one by the end of june so i hope to get racin.:) there is a track in maryland roar is holding gas national champs there http://www.pasadenaoffroad.com

dkj-M3
05-23-2002, 09:12 AM
Any off-road tracks in Detroit, MI
I'm going there for Memorial Day weekend, & want to run my electric & gas trucks.

Thanks Darrell

sanseric
05-23-2002, 11:27 AM
I must say one thing everybody that has seen me preping my rc10gt.Has to admit it looks dam good all blue and fast as hell.My wife says its atoy Itell her its cheaper than a mistress.She likes my new toy;)

trxstr1961
05-23-2002, 01:45 PM
YES!! got my old name back, about time too:)


just got my mill for my gt today :) it has a theaed on cluthbell, now what parts will i need:confused: any pics would be helpful too:cool:

Leinzey
05-23-2002, 04:27 PM
I guess I'll have to ask again. Does anyone know how think the shims are that come with the .12 cv-r? I don't think mine came came with any.

sanseric
05-23-2002, 07:55 PM
After takeing myrc10gt for its first spin i am hooked it took a small hill like a champ i alsobroke a wheel when i hit a pole The part is 7 bucks it was worth it

Rip_lips
05-23-2002, 08:20 PM
Need help finding aluminum sterring blocks for RC10GT.
Tom.

ritchies rc10gt
05-24-2002, 12:06 AM
Originally posted by Leinzey
I guess I'll have to ask again. Does anyone know how think the shims are that come with the .12 cv-r? I don't think mine came came with any.


if your talking about the shims behind the flywheel the engines dont come with them.you need to look in your manuel and see what collet and shims it calls for then go buy them.

wannabee
05-24-2002, 01:20 PM
RIP- check out hobby etc. I think I saw that they sell them. They are made by GPM.

Got Speed
05-24-2002, 04:20 PM
Originally posted by Rip_lips
Need help finding aluminum sterring blocks for RC10GT.
Tom.

New Era makes them too. www.neweramodels.com

Joebobclark
05-26-2002, 12:49 AM
Hey Guys
Thought Id drop some pics of my GT and a new DS project that Im working on.
Hope you all enjoy!
Thanx
Chris

Joebobclark
05-26-2002, 12:51 AM
.

Joebobclark
05-26-2002, 12:52 AM
.

NewToNitro
05-26-2002, 12:55 AM
Do I see a cirrus steering servo? What model and how do you like it?

Joebobclark
05-26-2002, 01:03 AM
Its a CS-80 MGBB. Its not as quick as some of the other servos out there but with 100+ oz of torque, it holds the wheels where you want em! It works well with my driving style and allows those Proline Edge fronts to really dig in and get it around the turn under control.
And at $23, you cant beat it!!
Just my 2 cents.
Thanx
Chris

Got Speed
05-26-2002, 01:49 AM
Is that an upper deck I see?

Got Speed
05-26-2002, 01:52 AM
I have one of those servos too. It is pretty strong(132 oz/in .23 transfer time I think) but not real fast. $23 is a great deal though.

Joebobclark
05-26-2002, 09:28 AM
Yeah, thats the A-Main ladder chassis conversion from a few years back. Its great and alot stiffer than the New Era chassis I had, but not as rigid as the GPM chassis. I havent had a problem with the chassis at all. The upper deck and front shock tower are fiberglass, but thick enough to withstand ALMOST any collision. Only thing is that the upper deck attaches to the front tower and the tower has mounting holes for it, but all the aftermarket towers (carbon fiber, aluminum, titanium,...) dont have the mounting position and I havent found one that I could modify to work.
Heres a pic of my new project truck, Im putting those Hardcore Racing ***. front shock tower and engine mount on there so I powder coated the old tub chassis a nice lime green to match.
BTW, the A-Main lower plate was gold anod. but I didnt like the way it looked so I coated it blue to follow the Assoc. color scheme. I also coated a few other pieces to match the chasis plate.
Thanx
Chris

Got Speed
05-26-2002, 10:55 AM
Joebobclark-I just got a tub GT in a trade and I can't figure out how the engine mounts because it was in a hundred peices?

Joebobclark
05-26-2002, 12:09 PM
I got the manual, and I'll try to get it scanned an email it ya, but for now I'll show you on my NDS cause its already half disassembled:D These are the pieces you'll need. You may not have identical pieces but you should have some that look real close. Also your pieces will probably be the stock black color, I just powder coated these to match the heatsink on the Ofna .12 I have:D

Joebobclark
05-26-2002, 12:10 PM
Next mount the lower mounts to the chassis....

Joebobclark
05-26-2002, 12:12 PM
I prefer to mount the upper mounts to the motor, I find its easier to handle that way.....

Joebobclark
05-26-2002, 12:13 PM
....

Joebobclark
05-26-2002, 12:15 PM
Then just mount the mounts together and your in! I didnt put all the screws in but you can get a good idea of how it goes together!!:cool:
Glad I could help.
Chris

atm92484_3
05-26-2002, 01:15 PM
That red is awesome. The green is also going to look sweet on the truck. Nice work. :)

violator757
05-26-2002, 02:04 PM
im with atm on this one

Got Speed
05-26-2002, 05:03 PM
Thanks alot! That red is great!

trxstr1961
05-26-2002, 05:44 PM
man that green is sweet, looks like im going to be doing that to mine now!:cool:

KIPPY
05-26-2002, 07:25 PM
i ve got an os cvr 12 and i was wondering if there are any glow plugs out there that will improve performance also i am curenttly running a 66 tooth spur i am thinking of installing a 67 tooth will i really feel a difference in acceleration

Thumper1921
05-26-2002, 08:33 PM
I am upgrading my rtr with all bearings from duratrax for 32.00 you get them all, wheels, trans, diff. However, I would like to also upgrade to mips cvds as well.

Sooooo. Questions:

1) Should i change the rear from 1/4 inch to 3/16? this would result in $16.00 more dollars , for the hub carriers and I would have to purchase more bearings since the bearing kit is for the rtr.

2) What is the difference between the shinny mip cvd and the black ones by mip. Is it just the coating or is it more strength?

Thanks :confused:

atm92484_3
05-26-2002, 10:01 PM
Kippy, if you are running 10% nitro, get an A3 plug; if you have 20%, either an A3 or a #8 would work (I'd reccomend the A3 though). The A3 is a hotter plug so it will burn the fuel faster; thus the needle doesn't have to be as lean.

Thumper, do the switch. The 1/4" axles require bearings with smaller balls and many people have had bearings blow apart due to the speed of a gas truck. The 3/16" axle bearings have proven to be much more durable. As for the CVDs, the only difference between the Shiny and Regular are the look (they are both steel).

Thumper1921
05-26-2002, 10:07 PM
BTW: Do u think I could do better on the prices and quality with Boca Bearings? I was looking at the rubber sealed ones. Guess I will have to give them a call.

speedydave
05-26-2002, 10:39 PM
For everyone running OS engines:

What engine are you running in your truck? At the track, I've noticed that the most popular OS is the CVR, but I have a CV. The CV's are extremely reliable, but I've noticed that the CVR's and TR's(rear exhaust...why, I don't know...but they have one..) seem to flame out more, but I don't know why. Yes, it could be tuning, but most of these guys have more experience than me, and their engines aren't as reliable! I've only had my engine die ONCE during any racing at all, and it was because my idle drifted too low, and cut off. I'm not sure whether I want a CVR or not, because my CV is very fast and EXTREMELY reliable, but if and when I bump up to expert, I'm not sure how I'll do with a CV.

And as for you guys who think, Why is he gonna bump up to expert? Well, expert class is usually cleaner(as far as the racing goes), and though they'll kick my butt at first, it should teach me to drive better, if I can follow their lines and try to notice their driving styles.

Thanks! :)

DR.GT
05-27-2002, 12:17 AM
I've been racing gas trucks for 8 years. If your racing on a tight track (400' running line) or a slippery rack stay with the CV. You'll be competitive especially if you don't crash! Just practice and DRIVE SMOOTH!

Horse power rules only when you can put it to the ground and I've seen many racers with the best HP+
lose because of of poor throttle control and poor driving skills.

have fun...:)

speedydave
05-27-2002, 01:22 AM
Thanks. Yeah, as you might have read in the XR forum, my track switches between two tracks, one of which favors high HP engines, and the other which favors lower HP engines, so it can get a little annoying.

atm92484_3
05-27-2002, 11:40 AM
Thumper, you could try, but you do have to pay for the quality. Depending on the price, you could even go for AE bearings since they are teflon sealed. I've had good luck with these.

I'm running a 12 CV-R in my GT but for the 2 years before I got it, the GT had a 12 CV. All I can say is this engine is awesome. Ya they aren't the most powerful but when it comes to ease of starting and power, you really cannot beat them. The best part is all of the engines power can go to the ground. I wouldn't tell someone to buy one now though since you can get a much better engine for $40 more (12 CV-R).

calvin1
05-27-2002, 05:05 PM
whatspur/clutch bell gearing do i need for my gt to dowheelies?? itll have a picco .15 in it....... i need some speed but not much being the picco is too fast for me in the first place... i dotn need like backflip wheelies just enough torque to lift the front wheels for a couple of seconds but im gonna race her so im gonna need speed also.. let me know,....



thanks in advance

calvin

DaMaXXer
05-27-2002, 09:42 PM
man this is a long thread

speedydave
05-27-2002, 10:55 PM
You just had to say that, didn't you? :rolleyes: lol...increasing the post count, huh?

brknwheel
05-27-2002, 11:11 PM
It's not so much the gearing that makes a difference here. It's more a question of weight distribution, weight transfer and how well you can get the power down to the ground. You can easily spin the rear tyres at any time, so if you can get the tyres to hook up well, you can lift the front end. Now if you plan on racing, transfering enough weight off the front end to allow the tyres to even momentarily leave the ground is not a good thing. There is no way to make small course corrections that will be needed to point the truck in your intended line. This weight transfer is not always moving physical objects to make the back weigh more than the front, adjustments to springs, shock oil and shock pistons affect weight transfer. One thing you have going for you is the fact that as a general statement, the GT will lift the front end more easily than the XXXNT.

Usagi
05-28-2002, 12:10 AM
Well its long because thereare many owns of the RC10GT.:D :D

sanseric
05-28-2002, 07:29 AM
Does the hop ups help on the rc10 like aluminum a arms ect

ross
05-28-2002, 08:22 AM
Originally posted by sanseric
Does the hop ups help on the rc10 like aluminum a arms ect

No, Personally I dont think Aluminium helps for a number of reasons, I would much rather stick to the stock parts especially for racing. Here is why:


Aluminium Bends - This means that if you have a crash it will bend, also especially on a-arms, aluminium isnt very forgiving so the hole will wear and so you will get alot of play in the joints
Aluminium is more expensive so if you do bend something it costs more to replace
Aluminium is heavier, stock plastic and composite parts are much lighter than aluminium


I think when it comes to replacing stock parts with metal parts Titanium is the way to go, but this is fairly new to r/c so parts are expensive and rare.


Hope this helped


Ross.

sanseric
05-28-2002, 08:29 AM
If my world watch is right its late in england thanks im gonna stick to plastic parts till i drive better My first time out i broke a a arm

ritchies rc10gt
05-28-2002, 10:15 AM
i had the aluminum arms on my GT.they look cool and everything and dont break but instead of breaking arms i was breaking the arm mounts,front bulkhead,nose tubes,nose tube mounts.i like them for bashing though because i dont break the arms if i flip or do cartwheels.

i seen a GT that was all aluminum at the track the other day.it was wicked cool but the guy wouldnt even bring it near the dirt.

ross
05-28-2002, 12:43 PM
Yeah I forgot to include that in a crash aluminium spreads the shock to other parts of the truck so you break other things. Maybe even bend your chassis if hard enough. I have been very impressed with the durability of the GT when stock, infact its perfect. I havent broken a thing, and that includes racing since January on grass and other surfaces, bashing on all surfaces, some jumping and a crash at full throttle into a curb.



Ross.

atm92484_3
05-28-2002, 02:46 PM
All aluminum GTs are not needed. AE's parts are awesome in durability and RPM has our backs incase AE's stuff isn't enough.

Stay with plastic for the reasons these guys have said. In the time I've had my GT, I have yet to need aluminum parts.

speedydave
05-28-2002, 07:02 PM
I have a few aluminum hop ups on my GT, but most of them are not needed. First thing I have is an aluminum servo/receiver guard. Second are aluminum shock towers, but these really aren't necessary, and I've heard you can easily double up on the fiberglass tower in the rear and be just as durable. The third I would recommend if you hit lots of pipes, and have RPM arms, which is aluminum rear arm carriers, though RPM carriers are just as good.

DTRAX
05-28-2002, 10:51 PM
I have the factory team gt and i think its time for a differential rebuild. When i spin the rear tires in opposite direction it feels crunchy. Is there any other way to tell if they need a rebuild and also what are the parts that need to be replaced?

speedydave
05-28-2002, 10:54 PM
That's a definite sign you need to rebuild your diff. Mine is liek that, too, but I'm lazy, so I'll tear apart the tranny and rebuild it sometime... All it sounds like you'll need are new diff rings, and some diff fluid, but you can't be totally sure until you tear it apart. You may not even need new rings, you can usually just flip them over and use them again!

EDIT: Dude, Martinez? I'm like 20 minutes away from Martinez! You ever been up to Delta R/C in Antioch? I race up at Delta...may be kinda far for you though, takes me a half an hour to get there.

DTRAX
05-29-2002, 03:34 AM
Ok i thought i might need a rebuild. Is there any other way i can tell, like the way it drives?

SPEEDYDAVE Actualy we went out there today, we did not break too many things. Do you know when the most people go. I need some more compition? Also do you know of any more tracks around here?

speedydave
05-29-2002, 07:46 PM
You mean you were out there on Monday? I'm the *kid*(I'm 14, most people say I look like I'm 16, though) with the yellow/green GT, and I had my Emaxx and micro along with me, too. I was also driving Chris's black T-Maxx some of the time.

As for tracks, Delta is the only one I race at, so I can't help much there. I do know that there is one in Sacramento, where Matt Francis usually races. You can check out the back of (I think every other) RCCA for other track listings!

Railman
05-29-2002, 10:37 PM
Dtrax, If it needs a rebuild, it will push in turns, &, believe it or not, it can effect straight line acceleration.
Be shure to redue the thrust bearing also. I like the MIP rebuilds. They are very smooth, & are actually a little cheaper than the stock rebuilds.
Joe

GTman
05-30-2002, 11:52 AM
I need some help from one of you who has a non ps engine mount handy. I need to know the height of the mount where the engine attaches. I modified mine a while ago to make it lower the engine but I cracked it last weekend. I can machine a new one based on the the the one I cracked but I don't know how tall to make it so it's like stock. can any of you help.? thanks

tHe cOokIe
05-30-2002, 06:08 PM
how fast would the team built go with the ae .15?

how would the top and low end speed be?

is there anything that u recommend that i should get with the team?

Got Speed
05-30-2002, 08:21 PM
With the AE.15 it should be able to get around 35-39mph. Top end is fair on the AE .15 and the bottom end is pretty good but I and other people have had them go out with only 3 quarts of fuel through them.

It's a good truck without upgrades but there are some very helpful upgrades you can get, like: MIP 4 in 1 clutch, high torque servo, RPM ball cups, ti turnbuckles.

The MIP clutch will give you a smoother idle and allow you more tuning options. $10

RPM ball cups stay on the ball studs alot better and can take more than a normal ball cup. $5

Titanium turnbuckles are nice to have because if you run into a wall or something the steel ones will bend. I would suggest the Lunsford Ti turnbuckle/hinge pin combo because for only $10 more you can get the hinge pins and Lunsford turnbuckles have a lifetime warranty. $40

High Torque servo will give you much better steering than a stock servo. If you've got plenty of money you could get an airtronics, futaba, or JR servo but Cirrus makes an inexpensive high torque servo called the CS-80 which you can find at www.hobbypeople .com. It is slower than the expensive servo but it's a great deal at only $23!

None of these are really nescesarry but I found them to be the top upgrades for how and where I drive my GT.

tHe cOokIe
05-31-2002, 01:10 PM
ok forget the ae .15.

i am looking at either the dynamite 12 spd or the os .12 cv-x.

which would be better for the team built?

violator757
05-31-2002, 01:30 PM
i would go with the os engine they are great

jcnmt
05-31-2002, 03:03 PM
hey! i am wondering what would be needed to race an rtr gt at a roar event ?thank you!

jcnmt
05-31-2002, 03:42 PM
does anyone know?

violator757
05-31-2002, 03:46 PM
hey i know that you will need a .12 sized engine they are some other things you will need ill look up the roar ruls site for you

violator757
05-31-2002, 03:47 PM
www.roarracing.com here is the site it will tell you about everything you need to race ina roar sanctioned event or if your local track use roar rules this will help you out

jcnmt
05-31-2002, 04:28 PM
thanks but i cant find out what i need.can you help me? thanks!

violator757
05-31-2002, 04:43 PM
http://www.roarracing.com/rules/pdfs/2002rules.pdf thats all the rules for roar im not gonna search for everything but i woill help you out a litte bit :D

violator757
05-31-2002, 04:45 PM
pages 17 thru 29 and pages should be fpr most of the stuff your looking for there is a index at the front if that helps any

jcnmt
05-31-2002, 07:23 PM
thanks for all your help bro!now i can go to the race!once again thanks!

jcnmt
05-31-2002, 09:08 PM
hey everybody.what do you all think of the o.s.cv-x?just wanted to know.i might get one

Leinzey
06-01-2002, 03:02 PM
Does anyone know the part # for the RTR fuel tank? I noticed that it has the pressure fitting located in the lid. I'm getting a ton of fuel coming out of the pipe, so I was hoping that might help. Thanks.

fly boygt
06-01-2002, 03:35 PM
That might not be your problem Leinzey, your engine may be to rich or, i would check all the fuel lines to make sure all of them are in good shape, not cracked, split, and then replace them if they are, or if nothing else works buy the new fuel tank, i would get a reverse fill one not the RTR one, it is better and prolly around the same price, the number is 7720.

atm92484_3
06-01-2002, 06:00 PM
Leinzey, try relocating the pressure nipple on the lid of the tank. Just buy one from your LHS (6-32 thread size should be good), drill the hole in the lid, and thread the nipple on and seal with the included washers and some silicon sealant. Then just use a 4-40 x 1/2" scrwew to seal off the old pressure hole.

1Nice_GT
06-01-2002, 11:07 PM
Hey, does anyone here have brakes that aren't very strong? I mean like, they don't stop very good, does anyone else have this problem? also I have the factory Team version. is there anything I can do? Thanks

atm92484_3
06-02-2002, 12:24 AM
I've found if you don't have the linkage set up properly, you're brakes will be weak. It wouldn't hurt to buy a stronger throttle/brake servo either or to replace the disk with a new one.

Lil-Boy
06-02-2002, 06:23 PM
I was racing my GT and the rear body post flew off on one of the crashes. I was wondering if anybody know who makes some aluminum body mont for the rear. Thanks for your help!
Juan

speedydave
06-03-2002, 12:08 AM
RPM makes body posts out of their tough nylon, and are PLENTY strong for all the abuse you can throw at the truck. Plus, they're cheaper than aluminum, and won't bend, either! :)

fly boygt
06-03-2002, 07:24 PM
Ya i would go with the plastic stuff, the aluminum is more expensive and once you bend it ,it is junk, you can bend it back but it weakens, and the RPM stuff is pretty durable, but i wouldn't buy the a-arms if your going to race, but for bashing they're good.

OldskoolGT
06-04-2002, 01:55 AM
I think there is a Traxxas part that is a direct fit for the rear body posts (just the part that the body pin goes thru). Since it is such a small part, bending is not an issue.

rc10gtisthebest
06-04-2002, 07:46 PM
I haven't seen anyone from the first RC10GT forum. Besides ATM and Violator. If none of u remember me i am Sponsored By Tyco. it's just that RCCA keeps deleting my account. I bought RTV sealant last sat. and sealed my engine up because my carb was leaking. (stupid old pos O.S. .12 CV-RX). Anyway. Now that my car is running agian and i can afford RC again i have gotten back into the hobby. Great hobby.

fly boygt
06-04-2002, 08:09 PM
I remember you rc10gtisthebest, i had just subscribed to the forum and was a new member and they deleateed it, or there was an error, thats good to here that you got back into it, its a great hobby.

GTX
06-04-2002, 09:43 PM
Hey guys, I haven't been on here in a long time. I think I am getting a RTR GT in a trade and I would like to know what goes first or what the first hop-ups should be. I have made my own list:

High speed throttle servo(already have it)
Bearing kit
new body

Anything else????

violator757
06-04-2002, 10:37 PM
welcom back rc10gtisthebest im rememmber ya your right it is a great hobby but the rc10gt makes it a even better hobby.




gtx i would get a mip 4 in 1 clutch , mip zero maintance steering.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAX09&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAX13&P=7

that should be good enougt for now till you want to up grade somemore hope this helps you out a little

GTX
06-04-2002, 10:39 PM
Thanks Violator!

violator757
06-04-2002, 10:41 PM
no prob man if you have any more questions lmk

GTX
06-04-2002, 10:42 PM
haha, the first one is a shock tower!

violator757
06-04-2002, 11:10 PM
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAX14&P=7

GTX
06-04-2002, 11:41 PM
There you go, thanks.

OldskoolGT
06-05-2002, 01:02 AM
GTX,

I would add some MIP CVDs to the list of hop ups too.

Usagi
06-05-2002, 01:07 AM
This thread keeps growing and growing

GTAffiliate
06-05-2002, 02:56 AM
Im new around here, comming to you from down under. Had my GT for 5 Years, finally found a forum to talk about it.....
Sweet.

Read through this whole dang thread. Longest thread i have ever seen.

Usagi
06-05-2002, 03:23 AM
Originally posted by GTAffiliate
Im new around here, comming to you from down under. Had my GT for 5 Years, finally found a forum to talk about it.....
Sweet.

Read through this whole dang thread. Longest thread i have ever seen.
ANd enjoy al the post that has come with it :D

GTX
06-05-2002, 08:34 AM
Yeah, I kinda figured those would help too. Why do they have different sizes for them?

atm92484_3
06-05-2002, 02:11 PM
Way back in the day and on the Sport kits, there are 1/4" bearings and 1/4" axles (I guess they figured that they are less prone to snapping or something), but those have been phased out by the 3/16" axles. Its just MIP offering different CVD kits to suit the way peoples' trucks are equipped.

sanseric
06-05-2002, 02:16 PM
Question:confused: will bigger tires get me through grass and dirt at the same speed or will they compromise speed I like the big truck look have rc10gt

violator757
06-05-2002, 02:20 PM
sanseric they will get you throught both but you will loose some speed but nothing to noticeable unless you race wich cant be the case if you wanted to change tire sizes but you can compensate for the speed lose by redoing you gear ratio hope this helps ya out


also is there a reason for wanting bigger tires?

violator757
06-05-2002, 02:22 PM
never mind the last question i saw y lol
also have larger tires might make you prone to flipping in tight turns

atm92484_3
06-05-2002, 05:37 PM
San, if you find the engine doesn't have enough power or is over heating once you put the new tires on, you might want to drop a tooth or two on the clutchbell and/or raise the spur gear tooth count by 2-5 (how much you change depends how much power is lost; just remember 1 tooth on the spur gear has less of an effect on gearing over 1 tooth on the clutchbell.)

sanseric
06-05-2002, 07:39 PM
I just like the way the trucks look.Thers alot of grass where i live.and Idont want to burn out the moter thanks guys :D :cool:

trxstr1961
06-06-2002, 10:02 AM
Does anyone here have a body i could get for my gt:confused: used or not, i need one for mnie, since the one that came with it was trashed:(

trxstr1961
06-06-2002, 10:02 AM
Almost there, just got my linkage and receiver put in. :)
now if could just afford the clutch nut, and one way bearing, id be RTR(Ready to Rock):cool:

clutch nut $23
one way bearing for ps $15
New body $20
I hate high prices:mad:

SKYNFAN
06-06-2002, 10:55 AM
I see people are recommending the MIP CVD.

Well, about 6 years ago I replaced my drives with the MIP CVD, and have'nt had a problem with them since!!

QUESTION: I replaced my CVD's with the same size that originally came in my Team kit--1/4 inch axles. It looks like now everyone is using the 3/16 axles. Are the Shafts going from the hub/carrier to the actual axle the same diameter??

Is there a benefit to switching since my CVD's and Hubs are still in good shape?

Thanks,

Skynfan

atm92484_3
06-06-2002, 01:52 PM
The main reason people change is for the durability of the 3/16" bearings' larger balls.

GTX
06-06-2002, 02:00 PM
Anyone have any pics of their rides?

atm92484_3
06-06-2002, 04:37 PM
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/images/home.gif (http://community.webshots.com/user/atm92484) <-- pikz :D

jcnmt
06-06-2002, 04:38 PM
i will have some later if i finish building it!

GTX
06-06-2002, 06:07 PM
Hey, nice truck! CV-R huh? I had one in my Losi GTX and it flat out hauled!!!!

GTX
06-06-2002, 06:08 PM
Can the RTR GT pull wheelies without mods to the engine? I think I will port and polish my AE 15 when I feel that I need more power. Has anyone tried this yet?

Got Speed
06-06-2002, 06:13 PM
GTX-If you put on stiff rear springs and have good traction. I wouldn't get the RTR though because the AE.15 engine IMHO is junk. I had one and it needed a rebuild after 3 quarts of fuel! Until then though it had fair power.

If you still have that 12 CV-RX put that in one and it will easily pull wheelies.

GTX
06-06-2002, 06:26 PM
I traded it for a .21 that I sold with some wheels for $100. Man, I wish I still had that thing!

Got Speed
06-06-2002, 08:57 PM
origanally posted by sanseric
Almost there, just got my linkage and receiver put in.
now if could just afford the clutch nut, and one way bearing, id be RTR(Ready to Rock)

clutch nut $23
one way bearing for ps $15
New body $20
I hate high prices


DO you have a link to that clutch nut?
Is the one way bearing shot or have you tried shooting some nitro blaster or something like that in there?

Got Speed
06-06-2002, 08:58 PM
It was a great engine. Even though I never ran it in my GT i'm sure it would have hauled. I was out of a Maxx when I traded it but I sure am glad now with my Hyper .21(when I get a SM tranny and CVDs I am going to have it ported)

Anyway back to the GT. If I could have done it over I would have gotten the Team Built GT(not because it's prebuilt but because it has most of the important upgrades already on it, it cost the same as the RTR, and I could choose my own radio and engine), or the XXXN-T Sport ARR(I know, how Dare I say Losi in the GT forum!)LOL

trxstr1961
06-06-2002, 10:26 PM
havent tried the nitro blaster yet, but will soon. as for the clutch nut ill look it up for u