Associated RC10GT Forum v4.0

[GTAffiliate]

What are the best tyres for racing.

My track is tight, the base is hard packed and there is a lot of soft sandy stuff over the base. Bowties are ok, but sometimes cant bite through the sandy stuff.

what would you recomend. are gladiators any good?

[not2bright]

i got a gt and ds they both haul i want to put a OS fs-40s-cx in the gt, a hamman ghuman all aluminum kit, a mip 0 maintenance steering kit, associated four shoe clutch in it and 2 speed tranny :D :cool: :D
for my ds i plan on getting a big block os in it and show some punks whos boss right now it is bone dry with no hop ups
i also have a fatty boat that is very cool
i hope to have picters soon

[Got Speed]

Are gladiaters the same as step pins? If so you might want to try those. I have some FS if your'e interested.

[trxstr1961]

found that info for ya

the thread on clutch nut part no is ascc 8803 price is $4.79

does anyone have a old gt body i can get?? i need one for my truck.. and will RTR rear wheels work on 3/16 axels???

[Got Speed]

Oh ok. I was going to say if they were that much I could find one for around $5. No RTR wheels only work on RTR axels and vice versa

[ritchies rc10gt]

gladiators are different from the step pins.they have a more aggresive tread on them.



on a hard packed sandy track the gladiators wont work.they like wet/loose tracks.try a set of step pins with a medium coumpound

[not2bright]

does any one have problems with spur gears i have striped 6 on my gt i wanna play!!! :( :(

[violator757]

nottobright loosen you engine mount on the bottom of the chassis the put a peice of paper in the gear mesh(between the spur and a clutch bell) then slide the engine back spin the bell if the paper comes out with tears in it your still to tight losen it so that when you rotater the bell or the spur the paper comes out with crease's not tears the tighten the mount but be carefull not to move it from its position then do the paper test again that should work thats how i adjest my spur and clucth bell so i will not strip gears and also check that you slipper isnt locked all the way down i hope this helps you out a little lmk if you have any more problems

[not2bright]

i have done that many times and it still stripes thanks for the help any ways but i still wana play:( :( :mad: :( :(

[GTX]

Try a steel spur. RRP makes a combo for the GT.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by GTAffiliate
What are the best tyres for racing.

My track is tight, the base is hard packed and there is a lot of soft sandy stuff over the base. Bowties are ok, but sometimes cant bite through the sandy stuff.

what would you recomend. are gladiators any good?

Since you are racing, I would reccomend M3 Bowties or M3 Step Pins and play with the suspension. With all the loose stuff, it might be difficult to find a tire that works. M3s are usually for the looser stuff so maybe stick with those and get a softer spring and oil.

Not, if you have the tub chassis I would reccomend you upgrade (it is much easier to set the mesh with the new one and it is much stiffer; if not, atleast get the Trinity tk1200 engine mount for the tub chassis). I also would not reccomend a steel spur gear. From my experience with the GT, all they do is wear out and cost $30-$40 to replace. Instead, I have switched to Robinson Racing Machined Plastic spur gears. They are a much stronger plastic than stock yet they are only $6 a piece. When the mesh is set properly, you should be able to hold the clutchbell in place and move the spur gear and only feel a tick of play between the two (IMO its much better to learn the "feel" rather than to use the paper trick). Once you get the engine in posistion, tighten each screw a little at a time so there is even pressure over all screws so the mounts don't move.

good luck

[SKYNFAN]

Why do I always see a side exhaust on the GT??

I put a rear exhaust Stinger on mine from the start. Does'nt that side exhaust get fuel/oil on the left rear tire and body?

Let me know, because I still have that stock side exhaust that came with my Team Kit in 1995.

Karl

[GTX]

I like the standard exhuast on the GT, it has plenty of power.

Has anyone ever thought about making a dual engine GT? I just thought about it, and I think it would be cool, but the design would have to be a little complex, don't ya think?

[not2bright]

im going to my lhs tomarrow and talk to them about th spurgears they are about the smartest people in rc cars! it is like talking on this but i get responses right away and dont have to wait :)

[SKYNFAN]

not2bright, I havent stripped one yet. Are you sure you have the mesh right between the clutch bell and spur gear? Engine is'nt coming loose is it? The only other cause i've heard of is frame flex. My GT is the older tub style, and I really havent had any prublem stripping spur gears, and some of the ones I have tried were really thin in diameter.

Karl

[not2bright]

i think it is from the frame flexing i have a tub too but i have a welder so i think im going to weld a aluminum plate on the bottom and weld on some other plates but first i have to get a new tank for my welder (%100 argon) thats $100:(


ill figur it out :)

[violator757]

the trinity chassis brace should stop the flex if you weld extra metal on your gt its gonna be alot i mean alot heaveier than normal and mnight not perform like a gt

[GTX]

I suggest you buy the GT upgrade kit for $50 at www.stormerhobbies.com. I think they really stiffen the chassis and the kit comes with a lot for your money.

[trxstr1961]

Finally got electrics in "PROJECT GT" took me forever to scrounge enough up to do it, but its finally in :) now all i need is a body,pull starter bearing, and clutch nut and it will be finished :-

[PTK]

Is the GT a good truck.
i wanna get one in the summer after i get rid of my ruslter.
my rustler has a OScvx 12 in it with sum other small hop ups and sand pawz.
is it worth getting rid of my rustler?


thannx for any of ur help

[atm92484_3]

Considering there are 4000+ posts of GT....I'd say its a good truck LOL. I have yet to talk to a GT driver who has anything bad to say about it. They are extremely durable in stock form yet they still have excellent performance.

[SKYNFAN]

My GT is seven years old, and has many hop-up parts on it. I know I've got over $1,000. into it.

If I ever see the old timer that suggested this truck to me...He'll get a big hug!!!

I don't even race (yet), this truck just handle great, and has countless available hop-ups!!!

Karl

[GTX]

What tires are the best for bashing? I am in Texas and it's mostly desert around here, so what tires would be best for me?

[OldskoolGT]

GTX,

Check out Proline Dirt Paws or Sand Paws for sand and loose dirt.

[atm92484_3]

I second the Dirt Paws (not to be confused with the all-terrain Dirt Hawgs). Their grip is awesome. If I drive in grass with those on my GT, there will be a rooster-tail of grass behind the truck. Since you said you are running in the desert (sandy), be extra careful to make sure sand doesn't damage the engine or bearings.

[earnhardtjr]

Went to the track today and finished 3rd in the B Main. But I have a problem I need to solve to make me faster. I tried a couple different rear tires (Bows, Step & Fuzzies) and three gave me the same problem. The back end og my truck is extremely loose when on power. When I apply more than half throttle to my tuck the back end strats skating all over the place. So my question is what do I need to look at changing. I am currently running a stock Team GT. Shocks, oil & springs are the ones that come with the GT. I am alos runnning the stock gearing that came with the truck and I am using a .12 CV-R. Any advace would be greatly appreciated. I figure if I can get more than half throttle maybe I can move up to the A Main on day.

[atm92484_3]

You could try going to either a larger clutchbell or a smaller spur gear to help "smooth" out the powerband. That might help but I think your problem is with the suspension. Its hard to tell without seeing or driving the truck, but it is probably safe to say you need to soften the rear end.

[earnhardtjr]

I will look into working on the suspension. Which is better to change oil or springs or is it a combo of each. What was really confusing and killing me would be as I come out of a sweeper I would be feathering the throttle to keep the rpm's up and as I straightened up I would start to accelerate but not just nailing it but rolling into it. Well I would be pointed straight as an arrow but jsut as you start to get the thing on the pipe the back end would start wiggling, and I mean get real tail happy. I will look into getting various springs and oils and start tinkering. I have two weeks to figure it out.

[OldskoolGT]

earnhardtjr,

Here's some more stuff you can try to improve rear traction:

Add more rear toe in

Shorten the wheelbase

Decrease the anti-squat by placing a washer or two between the rear screw hole (of the rear suspension mounts) and the chasis

Maybe try a shorter camber link position

Loosen the slipper a bit

Switch to a heavier flywheel to tame the engine power down

Or it may just be that your CVR has too much power for the track that you run at. The plain old OS .12 CV is a tough engine to beat on tight slippery tracks.

[Rc1oGtMaN]

geez....the GT forum is STILL here. Can't stay long.

-Mark O.

[sanseric]

The inside of my tires in the back are more worn than the outside whats that all about :confused:

[violator757]

hey man im sorry that i cant help you with a track setup since i dont race but i hear aot of people saying that slow and steady realy helps to win a race but i think you might want to soften the rear suspention to make it hold the track better but i might be wrong im sure atm knows a little more about this type of problem

[atm92484_3]

I would soften the springs by one level and take the oil down 5-10wt.

San, I can imagine the wear is due to the negative camber on your truck. It sounds like you might have a little too much.

[earnhardtjr]

Thanks everyone for the tips, now I have a starting point to work from.

Violator, I agree with that "slow and steady" that is how I am able to run usually in the top 4, but I can tell by my # of laps and lap times I need to pick it up a little. I wont to be a quicker especially coming out of turns not so much of straight drag speed. Right now I have to really baby it coming out of turns to keep it straight.

Again thanks

[Super<S>Man]

*WHEW* long time no see everybody. I kinda got outta RC for a few months but now that school is almost over i will most likely be starting up again.
san-sounds like you have to much negative camber, add some, just make sure ur cvd's dont fall out :p

[speedydave]

Picture time! Here's my truck with it's new body, painted by Haunted Myst, then, in a very ugly fashion, trimmed by me.

[speedydave]

and another...

[speedydave]

another...

[speedydave]

and the chassis...

[tHe cOokIe]

Originally posted by GTX
Hey guys, I haven't been on here in a long time. I think I am getting a RTR GT in a trade and I would like to know what goes first or what the first hop-ups should be. I have made my own list:

High speed throttle servo(already have it)
Bearing kit
new body

Anything else????

why dont u just buy the rtr plus. it comes with bearings and it comes with a better radio than the regular rtr.

what are u trading to get the rtr?

[Dave Scanavino]

Under full throttle acceleration when the front tires are lightly loaded the truck pull to the left. It's like the left rear tire pulls harder. Any thoughts? Dave

[atm92484_3]

Make sure nothing in the rear of the truck is causing drag which would cause the truck to pull.

[GTX]

tHe cOokIe: I am trading my SM Widetrac suspension for the GT. It's very clean (the GT) and has new tires F + R. It's a sweet truck.

[tHe cOokIe]

sounds like the trade is in ur favor.

[Railman]

Earnhardtjr, From my experience the fishtail experience condition you are describing is probably caused by a too tight or bad diff. I know it sounds backwards, but if the diff isn't free, it will act like it's on marbles. The first time I went through the same deal, another racer picked up my truck & simply said " your diff is way too tight!" I loosened it up, & it was like a miracle. You may have to rebuild it though to get it to work at it's peak. Perfect diffs are detail that sereious racers spend a lot of effort to get just right.
Are you running the flat chassis, or the tub. The std tub setup has only 3deg rear toe in, where as the new flat chassis trucks have 4 1/2 deg toe in at each side. 4 1/2 deg makes a huge differance in rear traction. I would also check the front & rear wheel bearings to make shure they are free. Sometimes if rear axle shims are not set up right, they will bind up the rear bearings when you snug down the rear wheels. Always test your wheels to be shure they are all free. It's most likely the diff though. Just my $.02
Joe

[superman_xxxt]

I have the same problem as earnhardtjr at the track. (back end comming out) I have been told a lot of things but this is the first for the Diff. I am planning on doing a rebuild this week. Any suggestions on how to get it right. Should I just refer the the manual? What are some good tricks for getting the diff right?

[trxstr1961]

:) Just my first order out to tower yesterday, YES!! getting a new body,wheels and tires for my gt.:)

Tires: pro line strikers
Wheels: AE 3 peice
Body:proline 99 chevy truck body

now all ill need is my bearing for the ps, and the clutch nut.. both are coming in july :-)

[earnhardtjr]

Thanks Railman. I will check the diff because I need to rebuild it after this weekend. Got home and it sound pretty gritty so I will rebuild it, but it was still loose when it felt smooth so I may have had it to tight. As for the chasis I am using the new flat one. All the wheels and bearings appear to be in good working order and nothing is binding. I plan to look at the diff this wekend.

Thanks
Guy

[hitstuff II]

I just got the Mip clutch for my gt, today when i was trying to remove the clutch bell to gain access to the clutch shoes so i could mount the mip unit i couldn't pull the bell off of the shaft it spins on. And yes i did pull off the c-clip. One other thing does anyoune know the size and tred of the screws that bolt the engine mount to the chasis. Also has anyoune had experience with the c-vec pipes how do you like them which adjustible setting did you use?
thanx in advance

[OldskoolGT]

trxstr1961,

What kind engine do you have? I have a used PS off my old OS CZ-Z that you are welcome to have if you can use it.

[ilovemygt]

i just put my gt back together after being apart for 4 months i did a full rebuild on my tranny and i got my .12 tr running really good the only problem iam having is while racing onroad my car fishtails coming out of turns i think the problem is with the rear suspension iam running green springs on 35 wt would stiffer springs help or will it make it worse?

[ritchies rc10gt]

i havent been here in a while either.

i have a small problem.i cant take a sharp turn.i have to take very wide turns wich is slowing me down.on the track i run 53 second lap times consistantly.last race i was 4 seconds faster than the week before.what do i need to change or play with to ake the sharp turns?im running green springs and 30WT oil all around with the stock pistons that come in the RTR.i know i can be faster if i can take a sharp turn.


and slow and steady is always the way.i hang back untill somebody crashes or breaks and drive right around them.ive come in second in the A main a few times but i mostly get third place

[ross]

There are a few things you can do:

1) Use ballraced steering bellcranks, they make your steering alot, quicker, smoother and more throw.

2) If you havent already get high torque servo, the Hitec 645MG is a good one.

3) Use the optional ackerman set up, You have to move the ball joints for the camber turnbuckles to a different position on the bellcranks, I forgot exactly where though, it tells you in the tuning guide, if you dont have one try looking on ae's website.

4) try using stiffer springs on the front.



Ross.

[tHe cOokIe]

is bell crank steering what the rustler has?

[superman_xxxt]

I have gone thru two HG645 steering servos since march. Both have broken due to manufacturer defect. I will not be purchasing any more hitec servos. What servos have the rest of you had good luck with.

[atm92484_3]

I am using a 615MG servo for my GT's steering and I have had no problems with it. The rest of my servos are S3003s. What exactly has broken on the servos? Chances are they would be under warranty. Call or email Hitec and see what they have to say.

There is also a chance something on the truck is set-up improperly and causing this, whether it be your servo saver being too tight or your end points being improperly adjusted, caused excess stress on the servo.

[trxstr1961]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
trxstr1961,

What kind engine do you have? I have a used PS off my old OS CZ-Z that you are welcome to have if you can use it.

trx1@yahoo.com:) I have a os .12 cvx and need the ps if the bearring is still good, ill take it.

[GTX]

My HS-303 crapped out on me yesterday. I now use JR and Futaba servos, maybe Airtronics.

I have a question that's really confused me lately-

What are all the differences between the RTR GT and the Team built GT. I know some of them, but not all and and I would like to know ALL of them-


bearings
1/4 inch longer chassis
good looking body :D
Tuned pipes????


So if I want to make my chassis the longer version, all I have to do is buy the upgrade? Why did they make it shorter in the first place?

[atm92484_3]

They probably made it shorter to save money so they could use all of those old box-bodies they had (hey they were like having armor plating on the truck though). You listed all of the differences.

You cannot really say the 303s are real servos; they are garbage IMO for anything gas.

[StevePond]

Thanks for the patience guys, it looks like we got this sorted out. If it becomes a problem again, please just start a RC10GT II thread, and I'll combine it with this one once the problem is solved. :D

[violator757]

hey steve p thanks for the help i dont think we need a new foum just yet ;) i think this one needs a few more posts lol

[GTX]

Yeah, thanks, I was hoping something was wrong with the board and not my PC!

[atm92484_3]

Thanks Steve; long live the original GT Board! :)

[ilovemygt]

hey atm where in pa are you from?

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by SteveP
Thanks for the patience guys, it looks like we got this sorted out. If it becomes a problem again, please just start a RC10GT II thread, and I'll combine it with this one once the problem is solved. :D


what was the problem?i know i got like 15 email messages that ATM had replied to the thread and there was one post from him yesterday.was that the problem?

[trxstr1961]

Hey everyone, got my body mounted and the wheels on...looking good so far, just gotta figure out what color to paint it??
Sugesstions so far are: patriotic, fancy, or wild...any others???

[calvin1]

if i tighten the nut on the slipper clutch (the nut witht hte spring) will it giv emy GT more torque? i cant even do wheelies and i should being that it has a picco .15 in it... should i tighten the nut? its pretty loose (2 threads are showing beyond the nut)

thanks in advance

calvin

[atm92484_3]

That slipper is actually pretty tight. You could try tightening it more but if the slipper doesn't take the shock, the next thing in line will (that being the ball diff).

[DTRAX]

I just got through rebuilding my stealth transmission and instead of using the stealth differential lube I used synthetic grease. When i drive my car the transmission sounds like it is slipping when under heavy acceleration. I checked my slipper clutch and it was the right tightness. Could there be another problem or is it the grease i used. Thanks

[speedydave]

Did you adjust the diff correctly? I haven't rebuilt my tranny yet, so i don't know how tight the diff in the GT should be, but for my T3, B3, and TC3, you should stick 2 hex drivers in the diff, one on each outdrive(to simulate the pins on the axles), and try to twist the gear. You should be able to barely twist it when it is correctly tightened.

[Got Speed]

Could anyone scan the page in the tub GT manual that shows the engine mount?

Thanks alot.

[atm92484_3]

DTRAX, it is probably the lube you used unless you didn't tighten the diff properly (tighten until the spring is fully compressed then back off 1/8 of a turn). I would reccomend taking the diff apart, cleaning all of the grease off, and relubing it with Stealth Diff Lube.

Got Speed, I'll try to get that up later today. What do you have a question about (or do you just want it for reference)?

[calvin1]

is that how tight the clutch nut is supposed to be? all the way in with 1/8th of a turn out? how many threads should be showing?

calvin

[atm92484_3]

The clutch nut should be tightened all of the way. If not, the flywheel will not keep the momentum of the engine.

[calvin1]

see i didnt know that and i noticed that on my car i would give it full throttle and it would hesitate a half second or a second to get going so i guess that was the flywheel trying to catch up... hmm
thanks

calvin

[calvin1]

im not talking about the flywheel when i say clutch nut im talking about the nut that has the pring on it that holds on the spur gear... how tight is that supposed to be?? and what are the original needle settings high/low) for a picco .15?? anyone know? thanks

[GTX]

atm92484_3 answered that question already:

(tighten until the spring is fully compressed then back off 1/8 of a turn)

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by GTX
atm92484_3 answered that question already:



calvin is talking about the spur gear and atm was talking about the dif.


the nut for the sur gear should have 2 threads sticking out of it.and adjust from there

[GTX]

Oops, sorry calvin!!!!

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by atm92484_3

Got Speed, I'll try to get that up later today. What do you have a question about (or do you just want it for reference)?

I don't have a manual so I can't figure out how to mount the engine.

Thanks

[atm92484_3]

This pic is compliments of Joebobclark (sorry but its a really good pic). Hope this helps. The only difference is the pic shows a Nitro Dual Sport but everything mounts the same. Make sure you use a washer though under the heads of the four screws that hold the engine mount to the two mounts (bars) on the chassis.

[Got Speed]

Thanks alot. I have the stock mounts like that I could use. But I also have the trinity one. It has a little bar that comes around behind the engine and it dosn't allow room for the pull starter. Does anyone have this problem too?

[calvin1]

gfet the pullstart motor mount... i had the same problem wiht my picco and i got the pullstart motor mount (i think stock number 7771, or something) and it worked fine... hope this helps

[Leinzey]

I'm having trouble with my flywheel not locking onto the collet tight enough. I have a .12 cv-r, so I put on the spacer, then the collet, then the flywheel. I then put on my piston locking tool, then put thread-lock on the crankshaft and then put on and tighten the clutch nut as tight as i can. I give the thread-lock a day to dry, and try to start the truck. But after only a couple bumps from the starter box, the flywheel is completely loose and won't turn over the engine at all. What should I do?

[Railman]

Leinzy, It sounds like the threaded shaft needs to be cut down a little bit. The nut may be bottoming out on the threads. One way to check for this would be to put an extra washer behind the collet+flywheel, & then snug nut down wiythout any locktite. Then try it out on your starter. If I'm right it will not slip. Then just cut a little off the shaft, & reinstall with locktite. If the clutch lines up well with the extra washer, you don't need to cut the shaft...just run it with the extra washer. I always like to adjust the clutch bell with the washers anyhow.
I only hold the flywheel with my fingers to tighten the clutch nut. That way it acts like a torque wrench for the nut. When it slips in my finger, it's just right! :D
Hope this helps.
Joe

[b_madd]

Im jus gettin started in rc. I ordered a rc10gt rtr today. any one have one.
b madd

[NovakXXXNT]

Check out our new fourm, at http://pub7.ezboard.com/bstadiumracers we need more members, be easy because it will take time to grow, leave a little "hello" in the lobby!

[violator757]

I ordered a rc10gt rtr today. any one have one



nope your the only one with a rc10gt :p j/k this forum has over 194 pages of usfull info on this truck and a lot of tips if you need help there are a alot of people that can help with just about anyhting and if we get stumped we get unstumped lol welcome to the nitro rc world

[trxstr1961]

Well, so far, so good. got a few parts, but need a few more! But im getting it the way i like it now! :)

[Got Speed]

An engine and some different gearing would be nice.
:D

[trxstr1961]

i have a os cvx .12 in it right now, but what about gearing?? im not trying to go THAT fast :D

[jcnmt]

hey trxstr1961 have you run the cvx yet?mine is very fast but it keeps flooding everytime i put gas in the tank!im getting very mad at it and might buy a new engine if i cant get it to work!does anybody have the same problem or any suggestions?THANKS!

[fly boygt]

Ya everyone check out that new site, here it is:http://pub7.ezboard.com/bstadiumracers . Check it out, its still just gettin going and there aren't many members. but it will be tight:D

[wannabee]

Thought ya'll might want to see whats left of my rtr. lol

[trxstr1961]

No i havent, :( still need a ps, and a clutch nut... :mad:

[DTRAX]

I just got through rebuilding my stealth transmission and instead of using the stealth differential lube I used synthetic grease. Big mistake. Just to let everyone know that other types of grease do not work. Use the stealth differential lube.

The next problem I am having is my steering keeps changing. I will make a few runs and get it going strait. It then seems to get unadjusted and will veer to one side. I don’t know what is wrong.

[GTAffiliate]

Check your hinge pins arnt bent. i had heaps of handling problems and my car would never go straight. I had a bent rear hinge pin, depending what angle it was and my rear arm would change between 2 to 5 degrees.

[Railman]

Dtrax, Thats a tough lesson to learn. :eek:I did the same thing once. I thought I had an excellent diff lube substitute that resulted in a very smoothe dif. The thing is, the diff balls have to do two things. One is very obvious, & that is to give the counter rotating diff action. The other one is to transfer power from the diff gear to the out drives. Thats the one that requires the stiff silicone grease like the Assoc. Stealth diff lube. It's about as good as it gets, & even a lot of sponsored Losi guys use it. It's the waxy film in the petroleum greases that's the problem. It just makes the balls slip too much on the rings, which then requires more pressure on the balls to keep from slipping. Ideally, the balls should grab the rings with a minimum of pressure. There are several things that can help the balls grip the rings. One is to use carbide balls. They are extremely hard, & will hold their coarse granular surface without over polishing resulting in a better grip. I always like to clean mine with laquer thinner when rebuilding so as to remove any plastic resisdue forced into the balls from normal diff gear wear. I just put them in a film canister with laquer, & shake & soak for a few minutes. I also like to lightly sand the rings with #300 to #500 wet dry silicone carbide paper (black auto body paper) in a circular motion on a flat surface. This does two things. One is to break the glaze, & the other is to flatten a bit. Just don't over do it though. Most of the problem with crunchy diffs comes fron the thrust bearing, & not the actual diff balls though. MIP makes excellent diff, & thrust rebuild kits, with good round balls. They are also a little cheaper than the Assoc. parts.
That's enough rambling for now.;)
Joe

[DTRAX]

Hey Railman thanks for the extra information. I will try those ideas next time I rebuild it.

Has any one ever tried the MIP 0 Maintenance Steering for the RC10GT. What does it do, and is it worth the money.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAX14&P=7

[Railman]

Dtrax, I'm not a big fan of the zero maintainance steering setup. It's not the unit itself that's the problem, it's just that it has no servo saver mechanism to it. With it installed, you have to use a servo saver on the servo. The only servo saver that I've found that is heavy enough for a GT is the big heavy duty Kimbrough, & the only way to makle it fit on a GT is to shim the servo up off the chassis, or notch the chassis. The result of each solution has drawbacks. I would be leary of notching the chasis, for fear of trapping garbage between the sevo saver & the notch. Raising the servo works, but it puts the servo linkage at a bad angle. My son ran the kit on his for a while, but ended up going back to the stock setup. I see nothing wrong with the stock setup.

On another note, Adam Drake claims he don't like ball bearing steering, for fear of a bearing going bad during a race. He also runs steel front axles instead of the std aluminum ones for similar reasons. I'm not shure what's on his new XXXNT kit though.
Just my $.02.
Joe

[ilovemygt]

can someone give me a good onroad setup?

[losixxxdriver]

Hey all-
I have not posted on here for a few months because I sold my TEAM GT. I now have a "DEAL PENDING" on a BRAND NEW FACTORY TEAM GT, so hopefully I will be back in the sport soon! I just had a few questions.
1. Does the factory teamt ruck have the stealth tranny in it?
2. Are 3 piece rims actually better than one pieces or the other way around?
3. Do I need a certain type of wheel in order for me to die them? What kind of dye do I use?

Here is my set-up so far:
FACTORY TEAM GT with a JR Racing XR2 Radio System. I am currently lookig for a O.S. .12 CV-R or CV-RX, if you have one for sale let me know please!
THANKS !
KYLE

[atm92484_3]

1. The FT does have the same Stealth 2.6:1 tranny.
2. 3 piece rims are worse than 1 piece since they slip and hard cornering or a bad landing can cause the tires to separate from the rim.
3. I'm pretty sure any nylon rim (white preferably though) can be dyed. Most people use Rit fabric dye.

[Bolink1]

Hey,im thinking about selling my GT depending on how much i can get for it,heres the specs: Black Tub GT,OS CV .12,3 piece rims,Stampede Tires,and Stock GT tires,RPM ball cups,MIP 4in1 clutch,Bearings all around,new Fut. mag sport Radio and Rx,S3003 Radio,MIP Shiny CVD's,its in good shape other than a few scratches on the chassis,so how much do you think i could get for it?
Thanks
Jeff

[fly boygt]

hey bolink i am guessin prolly about $100-150 for the old stayle truck, depending on who wants to buy it, but prolly closere to $100.

[Bolink1]

thats all?oh well i guess ill just keep it a while,mabey someday itll be worth alot more,like old tamiyas are,lol i was just gettin bored with it

[calvin1]

how much for the os cv .12? does it work and does it have compression??? whats wrong with it? send info and pics to me at cxdxh@yahoo.com... we can make a deal .... :) :D

calvin

[SKYNFAN]

After six years of using a "+" horn for my throttle/brake, I recently switched to the supplied Associated horn adaptor (circle shape)
It seems impossible to get the throttle to travel the full sweep. The brake portion is fine.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Is it a problem with the Futaba S3003 servo?
Maybe I should go back to my older setup, but it seemed like it was easy to apply too much reverse travel on the throttle body, in attempt to get enough brake.

Please help,

Karl

[GTX]

I just got a parts GT today in the mail. I am hoping to either make another whole T out of it or make it a shorter wheelbase GT so I can put a cheap motor in it and make it a wheelie monster! What do you guys think?

[trxstr1961]

skynfan the best thing out is the ofna setup, http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35995&perpage=25&pagenumber=5 check it out;)

[doghouse]

Not sure if this will get through or not. new to the RC action, and have a general question about glow plugs. I have a 10GT RTR with the AE .15 motor, I have removed the carb restrictor, and have the jetting about 95% dialed in, my problem is blowing glow plugs. I live in Vegas, and it has been about 100-109 the last wek or two. The plugs I have used have been OS#8, and McCoy#8. They are not fouling, just going about 5-10 minutes and crapping out. I cannot afford to keep buying new ones, just to kill em' (look at the name, been there since I bought the car), I was hoping someone could help out as far as number to use in high heat, brand, or another place to check in the motor. Any help would be great, I like the wife, love my car, and miss my bed.:confused:

[calvin1]

lol dont let her read your post :D :eek: .... theres my best advice i can give you lol... family first... beleive me make the woman happy and youll enjoy it more than your r/c car... wait... im 15... what am i talking about? shiz forget the wife go r/c'in!!! wahoo!!! lol i love being a kid ... did i have yall goin for a lil? lol im stupid... im kinda sleepy too... its almost 2 am... lol seeya

calvin

[Railman]

Doghouse, It sounds like your way lean. The MC8 plug is a medium range plug. Most racers run MC59's (fairly hot) in their .12's without a problem. I would take a look at your jetting, & also consider going to an MC9. It is a colder plug than the MC8. If you are doing a lot of high speed runs, you probably just need to richen the high end. It's also possible that you have an air leak. Basicaly, burnt plugs mean it's too lean. You need to learn a little about how to read glow plugs. Try this:www.parisracing.com/engine_tuning_with_coversheet.htm
Joe

[ilovemygt]

can some one give me a good on road setup for the gt

[SKYNFAN]

I use pretty much the same setup as I do off-road.
My Team kit came with 30 or 40 Wt. shock oil and blue springs all the way around.

I am running a .15CV-R(S)in my GT with 18/64 gears and the stock 2.6:1 tranny. I use Proline Road Hawg Tires, which look like the Goodyear Eagle Gatorbacks. They seem to work well, but I've never tried foam tires to compare them to either.

Karl

[calvin1]

anyone ever done this? ive got 2 fuel tanks on my gt... i have a stinger kit so i took of my pipe and the pipe supporter (lil wire thing that holds the pipe on the chassis) and there was a hole where i took it out (lil wire thing ; supporter of the pipe) and i got my extra fuel tank and screwed in one of the holes to the chassis (the tank hangs of the chassis about half ince, nothing major though... ) and i zip tied the top of the tank (the lid supporter witht the spring) to the other top of the tank... the result being 2 tanks next to each other...

pros: i am a mad basher so i need long run times and i mostly run by myself and i walk to the park so i hate carrying y bottle under my arm (with all the other stuff i need; glow plug igniter, screwdriver, pliers, ect.) while at the same time trying to keep my gt under control... and i run my motor rich so i get about 10-15 mins to a tank... now when i run at the track or bash at the local park all i plan to do is when it stalls from running out of gas or i see it is low on gas is switching the gas lines from the empty tank to the full one... then keep on chugging...

cons: the only bad thing is if i have to switch the fuel lines is i might not switch the lines fast enough to keep the engine running (if it dosent stall from running out, i might look at the tank when its low and jsut switch the fuel lines then..) then i will have to pull start her up and im good to go... it looks nice also and it also sortof equals out the balance from the existing spot of the pipe (remember the stinger kit so my pipe wont be there) so i think over my idea is a success...

what do you guys think??? ill post pics later tonite or tomorrow depending if you guys like it or not!! be honest!! thanks guys


calvin

[calvin1]

WAIT!!! bolink added to me that i could get these to connect all the lines (with two [one for pressure, one for actual fuel tubing]) and he showed me this ....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXES17&P=7


this is for airplane fuel tubing... so would it work for my needs? i thinking a yes... but theres a prob....what size should i get? 1/8th inch or 3/32 ??? thanks bolink... thanks guys


calvin

[atm92484_3]

Calvin, that should work but you might want to be careful that one tank doesn't empty earlier, causing air to be sucked into the line and leaning the mixture. I would go with the 3/32"; that should do the trick.

[tat2spyder]

anybody know what type of 2 speed would work on my rc10gt.

My rc10 is the only car i got that doesn't have a 2 speed and sometimes it gets left out becouse of that. i dont mind putting time,effort or money into this project i just don't know where to start

[tat2spyder]

calvin1

look into feul tank setups for helicopters. they have 2 fuel tank in a lot of the 3d birds. the way they have theres setup one tank will run intrely empty before it switches to the second tank. and you don't have to pyhsicaly move anything its all done with pressure.

personally though i think all the extra gas will only weigh down your car

[Bolink1]

well,how bout useing fuel cut off valves?and more than likely he already thoguht bout thw wieght,if ya just bash then it dont really matter

[GTX]

Can't you just connect the tanks together? I have seen a T-Maxx with 3 tanks before, so it should work.

[calvin1]

weight? weight aint crap (not an extra fuel tank) when its got a picco.15 under her... shell get around and still jump good... plus i bash more than im at a track

[calvin1]

gtx, how would i connect the tanks?

[SKYNFAN]

Has anyone tried moving the receiver battery into the middle of the truck?
Maybe move the fuel tank to the edge (I have the older tub chassis) and put the receiver battery between the tank and receiver/throttle servo area?

Just a thought. I know the on-road guys try to distribute weight as much as possible. Let me know!!!!

Karl

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by calvin1
gtx, how would i connect the tanks?

well you can try this idea,using technoligy of diesel tractors with dual fuel tanks.


connect our pressure line to one tank,the run a line from that tank to the pressure tap of the second tank,then run the line from tank#2 to the carb.what this will do is it will push the fuel from tank #1 into tank #2,then fuel from tank #2 into the carb.

[SKYNFAN]

I tried that method with my GT. I sort of mounted the second tank above the first (after filling lower tank of course) with velcro. IT WORKED. But I did not keep that setup.

NOW, can anyone offer input on my battery/weight distribution idea????

Karl

[calvin1]

how did you set up your fuel lines skynfan??? and ritchies gt what would i use to run the pressure fitting to the exhaust pipe? is it mandatory to have the fuel line in the pipe? i would think so.... but get back to me... thanks

[losixxxdriver]

calvin-
i was told that the line going to your pipe is actually what pressurizes your fuel tank. if this is true, and you take the line out of your pipe, your tank will not get any pressure and will not send any fuel to the carb. i am not POSITIVE but i think this is correct.
kyle

[SKYNFAN]

I ran a fuel line from the MIP 360 Stinger to the "pressure" fitting on the top/first fuel tank.

The next line ran from the normal output from that tank to the "pressure" fitting/input on the second/lower tank.

Third line ran from the lower tank into the carb.

I made this little support, and velcro'd the upper tank to the lower one. I only used this setup a few times, just to see of it would work. It worked fine, and gave me the longer run times that I wanted. Of course, the stock GT fuel tank seems bigger than some of the tanks other vehicles come with anyway.

Hope this helps, let me know if you need more.

Karl

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by calvin1
how did you set up your fuel lines skynfan??? and ritchies gt what would i use to run the pressure fitting to the exhaust pipe? is it mandatory to have the fuel line in the pipe? i would think so.... but get back to me... thanks


yes you have to have the line in the pipe to pressurize the tanks

[hitstuff II]

you can run an engine without a tuned pipe but you realy need to richen the mixture, the engine has its own natural sucktion much weaker than the preassure of that coming from the pipe however it may be sufficiant. I have never tried this though and i would imagine that it would be very loud (without a pipe)! if you run on your street neighbors might complain. btw spyder helicopters don't have 2 full sized tankes one is the main tank the other is called the header. The header is much smaller and is always filled with fuel that comes from the main tank thus there never is air in the tank. When a helicoptor does more "extreme" meanuvers a normal tank would mix air with fuel leaning out the mixture however since one always stays full the mixture stays more consistant.

[calvin1]

lol guys i think it works!! but theres a problem... i wont know until i can get another glow starter because i lost mine... is there any other way i could start y car without a starter? ide' think not but maybe one of you guru's know a diff way

calvin

[doghouse]

Originally posted by Railman
Doghouse, It sounds like your way lean. The MC8 plug is a medium range plug. Most racers run MC59's (fairly hot) in their .12's without a problem. I would take a look at your jetting, & also consider going to an MC9. It is a colder plug than the MC8. If you are doing a lot of high speed runs, you probably just need to richen the high end. It's also possible that you have an air leak. Basicaly, burnt plugs mean it's too lean. You need to learn a little about how to read glow plugs. Try this:www.parisracing.com/engine_tuning_with_coversheet.htm
Joe Thanks for the tips, and the website. I have almost placed the problem to running too lean, I am a tinkerer by nature, and tore the engine apart, did not like the gaskets, and redid most of them with Copper RTV (used to race motocross, bad habit of fixing things that already worked, cause I could make em better, think they based "Home Improvement" after me.) Had to wait for my weekly "Habit Money" so I'm going to try a couple of different plug styles. A dealer in town is being pretty cool about working with me, so hopefully have it dialed in and racin' by the 6 PM heats. Thanks Again, gettin closer to my bed, couple a more HoneyDo's, and I'm IN!
Doghouse

[Railman]

Doghouse, I know what you mean about knowing how to fix things when they aren't broke. I went from slot cars, to MX, (pro 250 #46 in '76). Then I got married, quit racing, had three boys, & got invllved with RC. Between the slot car stuff, & the MX stuff, RC bit me pretty hard. Theres lots of stuff to make better! Sounds like your on your way to figuring it out.:cool: Good luck on getting back in your bed too!
There are a lot of ex MX'rs that do nitro RC. I've come to the conclusion that nitro stimulates the senses in such a way so as to bring back old MX memories. I still get chills when I hear a good nitro truck throwing a roost. Electric is cool, but it's just not the same for some of us. If there's anything else we can help with, let us know.
BTW, it's always nice to here feedback to advice on here.
Thanks,
Joe

[ritchies rc10gt]

well since i am seriously in the doghouse.i now have a new Email/AIM name pontiac1966GP@aol.com.either my aol got shut off or my xgirlfriend deleted my name.so im using my moms computer.

[SKYNFAN]

Well, I too am married, three kids, and just got back into R/C after a two year layoff.
Half the time I get to run my GT is because I charged up my 5 yr. old's electic truck so he could run too! Of course, he gets bored after about five minutes. It sounds like we need to start a thread for guys who are in the doghouse, or fed up because they want to "play" but have to do the "honey do" or play with the kids thing instead. Oh well, I guess family has to come first. BUT WE NEED TIME TO PLAY!!!!!!

Karl

[calvin1]

amen brother!!

[ritchies rc10gt]

im not in the doghouse cuz of RC.im in the doghouse because of 5 mistakes i made.

#1got a girlfriend
#2 had a kid with the girlfriend
#3won the lottery
#moved an hour away from my work and friends to make girlfriend happy
#4 bought a house

[calvin1]

you won the lottery? so you never have to work again? good deal

[ritchies rc10gt]

i did.i wish it was that easy.

[SKYNFAN]

calvin1, I just remembered, when I used two tanks in my GT, the upper tank was ofset forward enough that the output nipple of the top tank went straight down into the pressure fitting on the bottom tank. That setup unly required about a 1/2" or so fuel line between the tanks, and permitted the tanks to be filled without moving them.
I still have my second tank (associated GT tank), I just have not used that setup for several years.

Karl

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by ilovemygt
hey atm where in pa are you from?

I'm from Western PA.

Skyfan, I noticed you are from Grove City. Have you ever make the trip over to McCulloughs Offroad in Sarver PA? (I could imagine its about a 90 minute drive for you)

[SKYNFAN]

No, not yet. I will make the trip sometime though.
I used to shop a lot at Wagonhill Hobbies on 422, but Jeff closed down and went out west. Better R/C customers I guess. Were you ever in there?
He had a nice indoor dirt track and a dirt outdoor for gas. I never raced there, he closed before I became a good enough driver to race.

[atm92484_3]

Nope never been there. I've always shopped at Hobby City on RT19 in McMurray. It seems like McCulloughs and a track in Elizabeth are the only places where you can run gas trucks around here. :(

[wannabee]

Went to a real track on Friday for the first time. WAY TO MUCH FUN!!! I have a set up question. I'm running green springs with 30wt oil all the way around. Every time I jump it's nose diving into the ground. The only way I found to keep this from happening is to accelerate through the jump and keep on the gas while in the air. I'm running the truck with no drag brake. Do ya'll no what might be causing this or is this just the way it is?

[Wallis Racing]

Hey all,
i currently have a HPI NMT with a .12 CV-RX ect. and i am thinking of getting a GT in the near future.
i am planning on getting the factory team because...well...why not? LOL
i am going to pull the CV-RX out of my NMT and put it into the GT.
what i want to know is about breaking parts.
my friend at the hobby shop says that its a bit of a barsted to get AE parts over here in Aus, so i figure that i should get some ordered when i first pick up my GT. my mate also says that when he was in america he had one with the same engine and all he did to it was put a metal spur and ti top shaft in it, and he almost never broke anything. but me, well for my NMT i have broken close to $2000au in parts, so i figure i will be breaking things with the GT. what parts do you people break most? arms? towers? chassis?LOL
i will get the metal spur prolly when i strip my stock spur, and then i will upgrade the top shaft when that gets wrecked too. but just for you info, i currently race my NMT against 1/8th buggies and if i get a GT, i prolly wont race it for a while till i learn to drive it properly, as i am going from 4WD to 2WD. then i will be racing against these 1/8th till the end of the year, when i will change clubs and race against other GT's. so that is part of what i will be putting it through, i will also frequent BMX jumps and track and skate parks. i really just want to know what i am going to break, how often its gunna break.

sorry for the long-ish post, and i hope you all can help.

anyways,
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[sanseric]

A arms get lots of those i i get your drift your hard on a car thread lock all the screws have fun the gts a great car:D

[tarvymoto]

Wannabe , you could try adding a bit of preload to the front shocks and take a touch away from the rear. Also excelerate while approaching the jump, then let off just for a 1/2 a second at the beginning of the jump , then excelerate up the jump face. That sets the suspension so that you get some good spring off the jump.

[fezzy]

Wallis, i never thought i'd see the day you'd defect!! :D I'm (¯`·._.·Ash·._.·´¯) on the HPI Forums, i tell you what though before i got my NMT i was planning on getting a GT Team Built but when this 2nd hand NMT came to light i bought that, but.. i still wish i got the GT.... I do like my NMT but its too fragile, its currently sitting on my desk with the front end in a few pieces ready for me to get some new arms and hinge pins :(, good time to rebuild my diffs though.

[atm92484_3]

Come to the light Wallis....get the GT....:D

[Bolink1]

ive never broken any parts in a year on my GT,but i have stripped a few spurs,melted a diff,and stripped the idler,just a few weeks ago i had a 3 ft high just setup near a basket ball hoop,went WOT off the jump and smacked the pole with the right front tire,did about 8 flat spins in mid air and landed upside down,i thought i would have broken about 15 parts,but to my suprise it only blew the shock cap!when we lived in Indiana i used to set up a piece of wood on our picnic table and get over 10ft of air,i would jump that ramp over,and over,and over,till i ran out of gas,new broke anything!but im gonna sell my GT and buy a e-pede again,i wish i woulda never sold my pede,i mean my GT's fun,but i cant run 20 tanks through it a day,i used to run 15-20 batts through my pede each day

[calvin1]

okay... first off... screw the nmt... i have one and i hate it... i just got my gt like a month ago and its awesome... i jump it almost everyday and i havent broken one thing... i used to race rc10's when i was 9-10 years old and now that im into gas r/c i love it so much... out of any r/c manufacturer i trust ae because they are just so durable.. they are truly for the hardcore r/c'er... my nmt would brake about 5 times a day at the track and my gt hasnt broken anything and ive done crazier stuff with it than i would even imagine with my nmt... hpi no offense but i hate your truck... its fun as hell to drive because of the 4wd but overall the car is not durable enough... i shouldve known that when i was going to buy the nmt because ive always raced ae and never broken much other than the normal wear and tear... get a gt and dont let go of it.... beleive me you wont regret it... thanks ae

calvin :D :rolleyes: ;) :p :cool: :) :D

[driller]

after being put away for 2.5 months I pulled out my factory team gt the engine is os .12 cv-x it's about 1 year old no rebuild yet as far as the os go's it cranks up just fine but I can't keep it running idle tends to very up then down runs for a few minutes then dies seems to rev. up a little just before it dies has 4in1 clutch set up any info would be appreciated

Thanks to all
Robert:eek:

[speedydave]

Sounds like the low end may be a little lean...

[Wallis Racing]

thanks all,
sounds like im making the right decision.
i agree with the fact that the NMT is an excelent car, but it is just too fragile. but it is fun and im not selling it. i will keep it and that way if the GT is ever out of comision for any reason then i still have the ol' NMT. and my mates can drive it too.

oh yeah, the NMT isnt that bad a racer, check this out:
Click Here (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39884)
i finally won at the track with my NMT, against 1/8th buggies!!!

anyways, cant wait till i get my GT,
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Railman]

Wannabe, I can't say for shure, but it sounds like your nose dives may be a driving teqnique problem, more than a tunning problem. The plane of the truck while in the air will be affected by the torque applied to the wheels. If you let off the gas ,even briefly, while still on the face of the jump it will nose dive. It will also have the same effect while in the air, but not as pronounced. Braking brings the nose down, throttling brings it up. it has the same effect in the air, as when its on the ground, only more subtle. Usually a GT will jump fairly level if you accellerate up the face, & then let off to just about 1/4 throttle. It does however have a lot to do with how gradual the face of the jump is. Some jumps have kickers built into them that make it difficult to stay flat without using lots of throttle & brake action. Some jumps need to be approached at a steady speed, others need to have lots of throttle applied just as you hit the face.
Another thing that can cause a car to not stay level is the shock action. If the front & back rebounds are not in balance, the end that returns out the fastest, will cause the opposite end to be forced down first. This situation could be your problem if your rear shocks extended faster than your front while in the air. If the rear shocks are not full of oil, that could be your problem. Another factor is the shock mounting location. Generally GT's rear shocks shoud be on one of the two outside holes on the tower, & on the outside on the arms. If you go inside too much it will reduce the effective dampning.

I generally run silver springs on the for tough jumps, & if it's hot outside, I run 35 wt instead of 30 in the front. Sometimes if the front bottoms too quickly, it will transfer the load to the rear causing it to bottom out too hard, resulting in a nose dive. A little heavier spring, with a little heavier dampning up front will help in this situation.

Did you add any weight to the front? If you added too much, it could be part of the problem, but it's pretty std to add about an oz to a GT's front for better balance & steering. I run about 3/4 oz in the front. It's unlikely that weight is your problem.
If the truck is in balance though, it's all throttle & brake control that determines how it jumps.
Let us know how things work out.
Joe

[wannabee]

Thanks for the advice. I have tried both methods described when jumping and the only way I don't nose dive is to hold at about half maybe more throtle. I'm going to try the silver springs with the 35 wt oil. your coments make alot of sence. I live in Texas and it is defenitly hot here. Would you recomend any changes to the rear? Right now I love the way this truck handels and I don't want to end up with a push as I had when it had the rtr chasis. I havent added any weight to the front with the exception of putting a digital servo on for the stearing.

[trxstr1961]

hope this thread lasts FOREVER!! :) Does anyone know where i can get the new CROWD PLEASER body for the gt at?? i really like the way they look :cool:



Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you with experience. Time is the best teacher; unfortunately it kills all its students. So beware !!:D

[associatedGTguy]

i'm pretty sure its on tower hobbies www.towerhobbies.com

[SKYNFAN]

I just re-tuned my 15 today per O.S. FAQ instructions because I kept getting temps in the 270's with my radio shack temp gun.
Well, still in the 270's.
If I make it rich enough to only get temps in the 220's, my kids walmart truck would pass my GT!!!
Is my engine wierd, or is this semi-normal? I am running on SHORT grass with 20% BT.
Thanks,

Karl

[OldskoolGT]

Karl,

Are you running an OS CV engine with the painted head? Its the world's worst heatsink, so, replace it with an aftermarket one by O'donel or Duratrax. You migh can also cool the engine down by richening up the low end. And yes, sometimes there is no way to get good engine performance at 220 deg.

[SKYNFAN]

It is the black head, and I have it turned so the vertical slot is facing front/back to let air through when the vehicle is moving.
This is the .15 CV-R(S), and I thought it had the better head. It does'nt have that ugly square head that is v-shaped.
Let me know,
Karl

[trxstr1961]

Found the body i want, its AWSOME looking :)





Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you with experience. Time is the best teacher; unfortunately it kills all its students. So beware !!

[Railman]

Skynfan, What gears are you running? You may have to go to a smaller clutch bell if your running on grass. You might also try a hotter glow plug, so that you can richen it up, & still run well. Do you have your body cut out well at the front & side window? If it's hot outside, running in grass, & running at slow speeds, 270' may be as good as it gets though with good performance. You might try a higher nitro fuel also. That way you can richen the mixture enough to cool it, & still perform well.
Joe

[SKYNFAN]

Railman, thanks for the help. Here's how I am currently running.

BT 20% regular-not race fuel
Body windows all cut out, large oval around head/air filter area
17 T clutchbell
63 T spur
O.S. A5 plug (plug is same I groke in with a few weeks ago. still fairly shiny compared to new, no distortion)

I also have:

60, 64, 66 Tooth spur gears

15, 18 T Clutchbells

#8 Glowplugs

I am running with a MIP Stinger Rear output, And MIP 4-N-1 Clutch setup in #4 position, reverse weighted.

Flywheel is purple MIP lightweight.

Thanks

[Railman]

Skynfan, Unless your running small street tires, your geared way too tall. Try the 15 tooth bell. 15 x 66 is the std race ratio that pretty much all racers run. I run 14 x 64 with my MT12 because of it's shifted (higher) power band. Since you run in grass, & are currently running a tall ratio, the torque load on the engine is too high. What that does is holds the combustion in the chamber. The same thing happens in a full size car when you tow a boat. If you try to lug an engine when towing, it will tend to overheat easier than when you run a lower gear. You need to drop the ratio.

Also running the #4 clutch setup isn't helping either, for the same reasons. If you use the #2 settup, it will help. That's the std setup with racers around here on the GT. It allows the engine to reach the power band before engaging. It is also easy to drive with that setup.

Both of these changes should help the temp.

If I were you, I would consider running BT race, or another quality fuel. In my opinion, regular BT isn't up to snuff compared to the other fuels that are available today.

Joe

[SKYNFAN]

rAILMAN, My tires are the 4" dia proline speed paws for dirt.
I can go back to the 15/66 original setup. I only switched for the extra top end benefit.

Clutch setup is easy to switch also. I used the #2 setup for five years.

I did call Hobbico/O.S. support today. I told them that my CV-R was getting temps in the 270's, and that any richer makes the engine a dog. They said if I tuned the engine per the info in their FAQ portion of site, temps in the 170's are OK for this engine. Another engine off the same production run might run even hotter. Even it the engine is adjusted properly, if it runs too hot, it will cut out.
How about that.
Believe it or not, with the current setup, when the engine is up to full temp, after a five second stop If I nail the gas, the truck does wheelies off the line.
It may be bogged down a little, but not much.
Karl

[SKYNFAN]

WHERE THE HECK DID EVERYBODY GO!
I HAVE TO DO SOMETHING AT WORK:p

[ilovemygt]

i used to have a cvr in my gt that would only run at 270 -280 it ran great but it blew up after only a gallon. the pistion broke, the con. rod snaped, and the bottom cases was all stratched. os also told me it would cut out if it was to lean.

i still use o.s. engines because they are great and relieable. currently iam running a .12 tr it stays under 220 with it being a little rich and i have to run it rich to control it in my gt :)

[SKYNFAN]

Yeah, well, I did'nt like hearing that.
Since O.S. told me the same thing, either some of the CV-R's off the line are BAD, or some just run hotter than others.

I had better get about four gallons out of mine before a rebuild or I'll have it out with O.S.

Like I said, I am running slightly rich to make sure the engine gets enough oil.

[ilovemygt]

i ran mine a little lean because i only used it for racing i was running bt 20% race formula so just becareful with what fuel you are running and always monitor the temp on the motor

[SKYNFAN]

I am running BT 20% regular formula.
I know I am not lean, because I always see smoke on acceleration, it is not a rocket off the line, and the overall sound is not that screamin' eeee.

[Railman]

Heh guys, I know that there was some discusion a while back about using the new GT reverse fill tank. I was just wondering what your opinion was on this setup...the good & bad. Thanks.
Joe

[SKYNFAN]

I still have the tank that came with my truck in 1995. Fuel lid and supply fitting are by engine, pressure fitting on top toward front of truck.

[GT_RC]

When ever i put the Clutch Bell on and snap the E-Clip on the clutch rubs, but with the E-clip off, the clutch works fine, HELP

[Railman]

GT RC, It sounds like you didn't grind the pins down. The best way is to drive them through the flywheel, & grind them off on the back side. The amount they need to be shortened is less than 1/16". You could also just grind off the clutch side if thats easier for you. Just be shure to de-bur the end well, & keep the pins even. The way to see if you've cut enough off is to see if the bell will set on the flywheel without rocking. It should lay flat.
In the end, once you get it installed, it's well worth the trouble.
Be shure to set it up on the #2 set up. #2 is trailing shoes with weights.
Joe

[GTX]

Hey guys, I am going to be running a Novarossi engine in my GT, I will get the engine tomorrow in the mail. I will be running the older tub chassis and a Trinity motor mount brace, but I plan to modify it to accept pullstart engines. Will I have any flexing problems that are so bad that I should put another brace on the tranny or somewhere else???? Also, what are ideal shock weights for the front and rear with silver springs in front and green sprigns in the back? Any help is appreciated.

[GT_RC]

Railman, i did pound them down and all that, that is why i am having so much trouble with it

[KC10Chief]

Hey guys. I was thinking about getting the OS .15 CV-R for my GT. What kind of running times could I expect during a race? I have an MT-12 now and can go for about 8 minutes before I flame out. Is the fuel economy noticeably worse on a .15 than a .12? The heats at my track are 7 minutes long. Could I do 7 minutes with a properly tuned OS .15 CV-R or should I go for the .12 CV-R? Thanks for any info! Matt

[hitstuff II]

what is a good all around shock set up for my gt i run the stock tires (edges and stubie t's). How will the gt compare with a nitro rustler in a little backyard race? My gt has the mip clutch cvec pipe and a 12 cvr?

[GT_RC]

KC10Chief, i wouyld go with the .12 CV-R. It follows ROAR standard rules. If you are going go go into high levels of racing that follows ROAR rules you need a .12.

I would think that the .12s would get better gass milage because there are smaller cylinders so less nitro is put into it so it would last longer. But that is just me guessing, i am not sure.

[coolracer47]

Yesterday I ran my gt in this lot full of dirt and all of the sudden my gt didn't want to move any more. I checked what it couldve been and I didn't see anything wrong :( :confused:

[adnansal]

I got a thunder tiger st can reach +80km/h
great vehicle not the best but quite durable
drives great I have problem with my carburator now
when My car slides at low speed like 2 or 4 mph and I pull full
throttle first it bubbles then start going may be some one can help me:confused:

[adnansal]

I got a thunder tiger st can reach +80km/h
great vehicle not the best but quite durable
drives great I have problem with my carburator now
when My car slides at low speed like 2 or 4 mph and I pull full
throttle first it bubbles then start going may be some one can help me:confused: .
My engine TTR pro12

[violator757]

mabey the guys in the thunder tiger section can help you out a little more we here a gt addicts sorry but any ways sounds like your a little rich on the low end

[jcnmt]

hey is anybody going to the ROAR offroad race this year?me and my factory team gt are i cant wait!:D

[KC10Chief]

Coolracer, one of the most simple problems I have seen is a rock that is caught in one of the back wheels jammed up against the rear arm. You aren't very specific on what it was doing. Was the engine revving way up? Check your spur gear and your gear mesh. I have no idea how experienced you are. Could be a gear in the tranny. Could be a CVD pin that came out. Could be lots of things. See if there's a rock in a wheel and if not, get back to us with some specifics and what you have tried and the results. Matt

[KC10Chief]

I was thinking about ordering the MIP 4 in 1 clutch for my GT. I have a 4 shoe clutch in there right now. What is an advantage of the MIP clutch? Thanks for any info! Matt

[coolracer47]

Yeah when I was running a rock got stuck in the axle and caused the truck not to move I took the back wheels off inspected it and found no rocks. I don't want to take apart the tranny so i'll bring to the hobby shop and have them take a look at it to. But it seems like the sliding next to the dicbrake is jamed into. Heres what happens when I turn the transmitter on the car doesn't move because it seems its applying brakes. But when its off it rolls fine. I'm clueless!:(

[KC10Chief]

Sounds like your transmitter is causing your brakes to lock up. Not the transmitters fault though. Check the rod on the brake that runs through the loop. Make sure it wiggles around in there and it's not caught up. Try turning the transmitter on with the engine off, and squeeze the throttle. See if the truck rolls. If it does, you have too much brake applied. Back the locknut off of the brake rod until the truck rolls with the throttle in the neutral position. Matt

[speedydave]

Matt, what I've been told is that the main advantange of the MIP clutch is that the spring keeps it from trailing on the clutchbell and feeling like it's always on power(which the stock clutch does). I've started to think about what engine I want for my truck for our *gasp* November-March racing season! That track is always high traction, so I'm between the CVR and the TR(both OS, both .12)...I'm leaning toward the TR, just to be different.. ;) Any thoughts?

[ross]

Im looking at getting a new engine for my GT, I have decided I definatly want a OS engine but Im not sure wether to go with the .12TR or the .12CVR. I know the .12TR is slightly more powerful and more efficient because of the rear exhaust but it says on the OS Website (http://www.osengines.com) that the .12TR was designed for 1/10th touring, and the power comes in at 36,000 rpm and the max rpm is 36,000. Im worried that if I get a .12TR then it will not have enough torque for offroad racing because I race on grass. The .12CVR however is slightly less powerful but the power comes in at lower RPM. If the .12TR will give me enough torque for offroad racing then I will go with that.

OS .12TR (S) w/Rotary carb:
http://www.gpmd.com/images/osmg2004.JPG
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXALM4&P=0

OS .12CVR (S) w/Rotary carb:
http://www.gpmd.com/images/osmg2047.JPG
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUU27&P=0

Please give me your advice.

Thanks

Ross.

[ilovemygt]

i am currently running a .12 tr and i have run a .12 cvr i can say that iam more happy with the tr it has plenty of torque i have to detune mine so it will hook up. it also runs alot cooler than the cvr my tr runs around 210-220

[Orbit]

Hello everyone!! I'm new here, so I hope you can forgive me if some of my questions seem lame. I just ordered a RTRRC10GT, and I should have it by this weekend. I havent been into RC for awhile, but when I was younger, I was into it pretty heavily, so I do have a little knowledge, but so much has changed!
Anyways, I was just wondering about a few things pertaining to the gt. BTW, I dont plan to race or anything, I'm just gonna be a "backyard warrior".

1) What kind of performance can I expect from a stock unit?

2) Whats the best way to break in the engine? Does the kit come with any tips or anything like that to help beginers along?

3) Is there anything in particular that is odd/exclusive about this truck that I should know about? Like quirks or chassis weakness?

4) Whats the best type of fuel to use, 10% or 20%, and is there any differences other than power? And should you always use the same kind that you originally start off with?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just chomping at the bit to get my truck and have some backyard thrills!!

Thanks for any help!!

[KC10Chief]

Ross, I was facing the same decision last week and went ahead and decided to go with the CV-R. It's got just the right amount of power for the GT. I'm still breaking mine in, but I'm looking forward to running it hard. One thing I like about side exhaust engines is that the pipe fits a lot closer into the truck and you don't have to cut a huge hole in your body to accomidate the pipe. With my MT-12, the pipe stuck way out and I had to cut a huge section out of the left side of my body. Probably not a big deal to most people, but I like to paint nice bodies and not have to cut them all up! I'm sure you'd be happy with either engine. Just thought I'd share the choice I made and why. Matt

[ilovemygt]

ill answer the questions for ya

1. the performance from the stock rtr is plenty good for a beginer. the engine is pretty prowerful and the rtr handle 90% as good as a factory team.

2. the rtr come with a great starting manual for the engine follow that it explains how to break in the motor and all that good stuff

3. there is some chassis flex back by the engine and trans but nothing to worry about.

4. i always break my motors in with the same fuel i plan to run. id say just go with 20% and stick with it use a brand of fuel your local hobby shop has in stock and recommends.

hope that helps

[speedydave]

Matt, Trinity makes a rear exhaust manifold that keeps the pipe in at about the same distance as the side exhaust manifold.

[coolracer47]

I wanna drop a .21 in my gt. does anyone think it would work? Maybe a .21 hyper.:D

[speedydave]

What's wrong with me, guys? I've had my FTGT for about 4 months, and the Losi truck is starting to appeal to me...It all started when I was watching the guy I was pitting for...his truck looked so much more planted than mine...I dunno guys...the Losi(or Mugen) just looks better and better to me...

[DR.GT]

Speedydave:

I know exactly what your saying. I have run GT's for 6 years. I ran the NXT for 2 years after and went back to the GT last year and did very well. Since the NT has been out I wondered alot about it because I run a XXXT and it really suited my driving style. I ended up getting a loaded NT ( before RTR & DE were available) and really like the truck. It has taken me a bit to tune in but i'm faster with the NT.....

:)

[speedydave]

They just look so much more planted than my GT...and a lot of the other GT's on the track...but I can't buy one now :( ..I'm getting a Mugen XR :)

[edit] DAAAANG! 200 pages! Way to go AE!

[Orbit]

Ilovemygt:

Thanks for answering my questions, I really appreciate it!!

I'm getting so stoked, I should get the truck tomorrow I hope. It's gonna be great!! :D


BTW, I was in a chat room last night and some guy told me that the GT isnt fast at all stock, and that an electric with a half decent setup would give me a run for my money. I know I've been out of RC'ing for awhile, but that just cant be possible...................can it?

[GTX]

The RTR GT is very fast for a RTR. It does have a lot of top end, more than needed, which makes it have less torque or low end. The RTR GT has the .15 engine so it does have more displacement than most .12 engines. I wouldn't think it could have a run for it's money against a RTR T3 or similar truck, although I have never seen a T3 in action.

[chachi]

many say the gt rtr isn't that fast out of the box. this is because it has a carb restrictor. i guess they figure that people buying the rtr are new to rc, and to save the newbies money (from going out of control and breaking stuff) and frustration, they put in the restrictor. i took mine out after i broke in the engine, and it made a big difference. even with the stock engine, and two gallons of fuel through it, my gt rtr can smoke most of the off-road trucks at my local track. to get rid of the restrictor, take off the air filter, and use a knife or small falt-head screwdriver to pop out the white plastic restrictor from the top of the carb. try not to wreck it, since it is beneficial to have a restrictor on small tight tracks.

[b_madd]

in last months issue of rc nitro they tested the gt rtr and the top speed they got w/ restrictor was 33.04mph so unless your drag racin or oval i wouldnt really worry.

[bad6as]

hey tundra can you eather send me the pics in a e-mail or re post them. (the cover box) they arnt working for me. thanks
bad@as@aol.com

[trxstr1961]

200 Pages!! YYEEHHAAA! go 10gt. i love reading all about this great truk, but im thinknig of trying a traxxas...pros and cons please:)

[Conman]

I want to get the FT GT. which ROAR LEAGAL .12 engine should I get with it.

[NewToNitro]

Grrrr the set screws keep comeing out of my MIP CVDs. Is there a cheaper replacement than ordering the CVD rebuild kit(8.50)?

[trxstr1961]

:) I am thinking what the AE site needs to be better...these r:
1 CHAT
2 Mesage board
3 sell/trade area
4 History of the rc10seris

any other suggestions:confused:

[KC10Chief]

Hey guys. What do you think of my new crab body for my GT? Glued all the fur on with a hot glue gun. Eyes are ping pong balls mounted on springs. Was a big hit at the track today. What do you guys think?

[speedydave]

OMG that's hilarious..and awesome!

[bubbastump]

has anyone ever lost toe rear body posts and used the front (spare) on the back

[hitstuff II]

i have the teambuilt gt (with dogbones) and i'm noticing that in the place the dogbone connects with the axel, the dogbone has shaved out/bent alot of material, will cvds solve this prob or do you think it will just start wearing out where the diff connects with the cvd.

[GTAffiliate]

I have t-bones in my GT and changed to CVS for that reason. The CVDs have only worn the dif cups a tiny bit, and i have had time for over 12 galons of fuel. They are a good upgrade.

[GTX]

Conman: If you're a newbie, try an O.S. 12 CV-X. If you're not a newbie, go with something along the lines of an O.S. 12 CV-R or CV-RX or maybe even a Novarossi.

KC10: Now that's a bod!

hitstuff: It sounds like your drive cup is recieving wear? CVD's would solve half of this, but it also sounds as if the spring(s) that dampen the movement of the dogbone as the suspension arm bounces up and down and makes the dogbone move back and forth inside both drive cups on each side are gone. This causes a jam between the dogbone and the deeper cut portion of the drive cup. When this happens and you're driving, your engine forces the dogbone to continue and scrape against the drive cup jam, releasing the jam but as soon as the suspension arm moves up and down again another jam is made.

So, in short, get some of the small springs that force the dogbone back out of the drivecup. This should solve your problem. CVD's would just be an upgrade and then become dinged up and you would still have to put in the springs.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by KC10Chief
Hey guys. What do you think of my new crab body for my GT? Glued all the fur on with a hot glue gun. Eyes are ping pong balls mounted on springs. Was a big hit at the track today. What do you guys think?

OMFG!!!! that is too funny dude!i gotta make something like for mine one of these days

[trxstr1961]

How about trying a eleaphant next time?:D

[hitstuff II]

my gt never had springs in the drive cups, it came with some rubber o rings inside, they are still there, would these act like the spring you are talking about? Are cvd's worth it? R they trouble free?

[GTX]

Can you post a pic of what you're talking about? CVD's are great, I own two sets. Rubber O-rings? How many are in there? With the truck completely assembled, spin the spur gear so the truck would move forward if it were on the ground. Do this for about 6 turns of the spur gear and see if it seems to lock-up at all.

[sanseric]

I lost my springs so the guy at lhs gave me rubber o rings so i could race does not seem to be a differance to me :cool:

[ross]

hitstuff,

Your not alone, ive got dogbones on my GT team built and ive got the rubber o-rings in there. I have also placed some fuel tubing in there to stop them popping out. I am soon going to upgrade to some TIR CVD's.



Ross.

[GTX]

TIR CVD's? Never heard of those before. Do they have a website or something? I just use MIP.

[hall85296]

I am kind of new to the sport, but however about 5 years ago I had an rc10gt with a OS .12. Recently I have bought a new RC10GT factory team and was wanting to know what every one thought about what motor I should install. I want the power of a .15 but I do not know if it would be to much could you let me know what all of you think about this.. Thank You.

[GTX]

O.S. engines are very reliable and great all-around motors. For speed and power, along with ample running space, go with the CV-R series. For small spaces, go with the CV series. If you want more power than a CV-R, then the TR or even the "Outlaw" that is coming out would be good, although you can't race with the Outlaw. Hope this helps.

[RacingRush]

I agree with GTX.

The o.s. engine in my Rush runs awesome. You won't be disapointed.


Jason








BTW- This was the 5000th post in the GT forum.

[KC10Chief]

Hall, I second the CV-R. I just put an OS .12 CV-R in my Factory Team GT, and it really hauls. If you're wanting to race in big races like ROAR, you will need a .12. If you ask me, a .15 would be a bit much for a GT. The .12 CV-R has more power than you'll ever use. I've also run the Mugen MT-12 in my truck with an OS carbeurator. That setup will REALLY make your truck scream, but the motor doesn't last as long as an OS and it's too much power anyways. The previous post said you can't race with the Outlaw. That's probably true for ROAR races, but at most tracks like the ones around here, you can race with a .21 in your GT if you can get it in there! But a .12 CV-R would be great especially if you are just returning to the hobby. Good luck! Matt

[SKYNFAN]

I have a 15 CV-R(S) in my GT, and am told as long as I dont race official ROAR races, I'll be OK. And was also told the 15 will prob be legal before long anyway, because so many manufacturer's are putting them in the kits!
I love mine. It screams. Just took a little while to get used to the power difference from the 12 CZ-Z I was running.

BTW I never had springs in my outdrives. I run the MIP CVD's also. I too noticed that little bit of wear on the hubs. No big deal, it still works great.

Can I get MIP CVD quality OUTDRIVES to match the CVD's?????

Karl

[hall85296]

Thanks for all the information..

[hitstuff II]

i have had those o-ring things in my teaambuilt since day one, added 2 more because my dogbone kept popping out, now it never does. I'm guwssing that the springs come with the kits that use cvds and the o-rings come with the dogbone kits.

[NewToNitro]

I have a megatech M-16 in my GT....It will balloon the tires at half throttle going down the road :) And it will wheelie if im on the right surface

[hall85296]

I backordered an Airtronics MX-3 3 radio for my RC10GT from Tower and they keep putting of the mailing date now it is mid July. I was just wanting to know if anyone has used this controller and if so is it worth waiting for. Does any one race in or around Phoenix AZ (need to know some good tracks)Thanks..

[ross]

Originally posted by hall85296
I backordered an Airtronics MX-3 3 radio for my RC10GT from Tower and they keep putting of the mailing date now it is mid July. I was just wanting to know if anyone has used this controller and if so is it worth waiting for. Does any one race in or around Phoenix AZ (need to know some good tracks)Thanks..

cool, i liked the look of that radio, let me know how it goes.

[GTX]

Got Speed is in the Pheonix area and so is my brother, but he doesn't even run R/C's. Email Got Speed, he races all the time.

[sanseric]

The back of my engine is leaking cant find out where it is comeing from going to put in a oscvx slide carb will this work new to this:confused:

[violator757]

san when you say its leaking out the back are you talking about the back plate or the back around the carb? need more info

[bad6as]

does any one know if any one makes a 2 speed tranny for the rc10gt factory team i have the novarossi cx.12

[sanseric]

757 I am almost sure it is the back of the engine when i hold the front foward it leaks on my hand i checked the fuel tank no leaksmaybe i should tighten all the screws again is it a hassel putting in a slide carb with a oscvx one of my better engines i like it anyway:confused is there a 2 speed tranny for the rc10

[Wallis Racing]

YAY!:D
my Factory team GT is less then 2 weeks away:D
WOO-HOO:cool:

Bad news is that I am now gunna have to add more sections to my site, LOL:rolleyes:

anyways,
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[violator757]

no one that i know of makes a two speed for the gt i do know that they make a two speed for the rc10 buggie

[sanseric]

Thanks a lot:D

[violator757]

no prob man im here to help out as much as i can

[GTX]

Does anyone have any pics of the Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer? I think it looks cool, but not sure if it would look good with the paint job I would choose. What do you guys think of it?

[trxstr1961]

yesterday, i got to go to the hobbytown in indy and picked up a few things for my gt an nds:cool:

ofna linkage kit
front bumper
aluminum brake nut
antenna receiver mountfront and rear body posts
66t spur :)

found out(i think) that the nds has been discontinued,
so where can i get parts for it at?? or should i turn it into a gt:confused:

[atm92484_3]

Trx, Tower still has the NDS listed (Qualifier version). There will still be a ton of parts stocked even after the car is discontinued; thats just the way AE does things. I'd leave it a NDS and enjoy having a 2wd car.

[trxstr1961]

Just found something AWSOME out. the wheels on the EVADER
fit the gt and give it a nice look too:) used the wheels on my room mates evader, swapped them with the 3 peice wheels i had on my gt :D

so now i have a spped run truck (evader) and a race truck (gt):cool:

[trxstr1961]

got the gt running, but have a prob, it sounds like the engine is buring fuel and its sizzles as its running, what r the factory setting for a os,12 cv using 15%:confused: i think the preveous owner ran something higher

[GTX]

Sizzles? Like in the carb or on the engine crankcase?

[trxstr1961]

not too sure, gonna richen it up a bit and see what happens

:)