View Full Version : Associated RC10GT Forum v4.0
trxstr1961
07-12-2002, 06:15 PM
i cant keep the motor mount screws tight, what kind of threadlock do u all suggest i use:confused: also, what rear tires do u suggest for running on a dusty track??
speedydave
07-12-2002, 08:28 PM
Anyone have the mounting holes on the MIP 4-n-1 clutch shoes stretch on them? This happened to mine after only a few runs...Did I just get bad clutch shoes? Thanks.
As far as putting the thing together I did that well,, I have no problems do to puting the thing together badly.
reletivly new truck I have 1 month old. I asembeld it and seems great for bashing around, but at the track its a nightmare as far as handlind. ITs pretty much stock.
The main problem I have is it starts of turning very wide!!!
If I were to make a "U" shaped turn the first half of turn its wide but second half of turn it gets alot tighter , tighter as in normal.
what do you gus think?
atm92484_3
07-13-2002, 02:24 AM
Aki, it sounds like you need to do some tuning. Try to possibly harden the rear shocks/soften the front shocks, along with adding weight and adjusting the toe-in.
Dave, that sounds really weird. In the 4 years of running GTs, I've never heard of that. A bad batch is possible, but would there have been anyways the shoe would have been heated up and allowed the stretching?
Railman
07-13-2002, 11:19 AM
Aki, It's hard to say without seeing the truck. A lot of things could cause the push you're describing. 1st I'd check the servo saver to make shure it's not too loose. Then I'd try adding about 1 oz or so to the front. I put 3/4 oz just in front of the steering servo on mine. What clutch are you running? If the engine does not idle down all the way, to release the clutch, it will cause it to push. The MIP4in1 (#2 setup), is a big help on this. Try a little drag brake. It will settle (compress) the front supension , & raise the rear a bit so as to shift weight to the front for more steering entering a turn. I would double check the manual as haw to set the drag brake up. It describes it fairly well.
Sometimes changing the ride height is all that's necesary. The front atrms should be level, & the rear dogbones should be level.
If none of this makes a differance, or you want ther things to try, let us know.
Joe
rc10gtisthebest
07-13-2002, 01:50 PM
Well Looks like my O.S. CV-RX finally is giving on me. It sucks from the hole shot then it has descent top end. But no where as good as a few months ago. I am either going to Get a RB X12 or a Orion Wasp .12. don't know for sure yet.
oh yeah good to see you agian ATM, i am Sponsored By Tyco if your don't remember me.
http://deerfield-rc-racers.freeservers.com/images/mvc-007f.jpg
rc10gtisthebest
07-13-2002, 02:01 PM
opps double post
Railman
I dont think its a servo saver I have it pretty tight. Also I do not think its a minor setup issue as far like shoks, springs oils. The problem is so aparent that I think it has something to do with the drive train.
I have a stock cluch wich may be a contributing problem. motor is as new as the truck I hav it set rich because I am not that good at setting up motors and the idle may be a littel to high.
Cluch/ motor seting may be a contributing problem, but I think that maybe the Diff is to tight and dose not disengage fast enough. what do you think about that???
Heckler
07-13-2002, 11:36 PM
Hey guys... I have a small problem here. I've decided to fix up my 10gt, but it doesn't want to run. I mean, everything seems to be working fine, but when I put it on the ground and put in throttle, the car doesn't move. however, when I'm holding it, ie. the rear wheels aren't in contact with anything, they spin quite freely. It's not the brake, since even on full throttle, the car doesn't move. spur gear's turning quite freely.
What could be the problem? I'm using a stock set-up on a tub chassis model BTW. any suggestions here? thx
Heckler
:D
violator757
07-13-2002, 11:44 PM
check to make sure the slipper sint way to loose after that you might want to check to see if the diff id det correctly lmk what happens
atm92484_3
07-14-2002, 01:11 AM
Chances are it is the slipper or the diff. If neither of those are the culprits, check the tranny's gears, CVDs (if you have them), and the roll-pins on the axles and make sure all are in working order.
Tyco, great to see some older guys still around.
Heckler
07-14-2002, 03:03 AM
its not the Spur gear, since that move freely. trans alright, everything moving freely too...
when you say slipper, you m ean the clutch right? it may sound like a stupid question, but I'm still kinda new to the sport.
if i'm on the right thing, i have the clutch setting as 1/2 turns out. but that still doesn't seem to wanna make the truck move.
if 'm not onto the right line, how DO you adjust the slipper?
Thanks guys
atm92484_3
07-14-2002, 01:33 PM
The thing you have 1/2 turns out is the slipper clutch. The other clutch is located on the flywheel and is inside the drum on the clutchbell. You have the ride idea with the slipper though; tightening that nut makes it slip less.
While you're at it, try taking the clutchbell off and making sure the clutch isn't fried.
Ryche
07-14-2002, 05:31 PM
what do i need to make this a bumpstart..
http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/attachment.php?s=&postid=415586
trxstr1961
07-14-2002, 11:02 PM
nice pic, now lets see the rest of it:D
You need a bumpstarter or starter box. Here are some pics of mine. I just bashed with mine in the rain about an hour or so ago(when I stopped). Man, my C12 is a serious POWERHOUSE.
My parts GT that I am converting into a GT Maxx. It will be a GT with Maxx suspension. :D It's gonna be sweet.
chachi
07-15-2002, 01:11 AM
anybody else have brutal problems with the hitec servos that came with the rtr kit? mine both twitch like mad and seem to be fighting the reciever signal. i have made sure it isn't a loose crystal or interference. sometimes they seem to work ok, but mostly they just straight up lick choda.
other than the servos, the truck rules.
sanseric
07-15-2002, 07:09 AM
I thougt it was the batteries the damm thing kept going on and off so i replaced it if you find out the problem let me know i hear it happens
wannabee
07-15-2002, 11:58 AM
I thought it was the battery pack as well. I put a trinity receiver pack in its place and the problem was still there. I replaced the servos and know longer have this problem. My friend had this problem also.
Well Hitec servos are pretty much crap, so that's why hardly anyone uses them.
wannabee
07-15-2002, 12:19 PM
I'm soory to hear they are "crap". I put a 5925 hi tech in for my steering. It produces 128 oz of torgue and .08 sec. I've been pleased with this so far. I hope you aren't saying this unit is going to be trouble.
OldskoolGT
07-15-2002, 12:38 PM
wannabee,
I had 2 5925s in my Hyper 7 and both are being serviced now. I suspect one may have broken from crash damage. The other one just felt gritty, so I sent it back too. OTOH, I have a Hitec 5625 in my GT and it has held up fine for half a year now.
Only the more expensive servos are actually worth paying for. I have had some of those crap out on me and others as well. I just have had better luck with JR and Futaba servos. Airtronics servos are good too. Hitec servos just don't hold up with the situations I put them in. Don't really know why. The standard ones shouldn't even be called standard, they don't even hold up to standards!
hitstuff II
07-15-2002, 01:18 PM
I say futaba all the way, i have never had any futaba equipment fail in my 2 years of rc and my 4 cars that all use futaba radio equipment.
chachi
07-15-2002, 01:28 PM
anybody know anything about these? are they two slow for racing off-road (.24/60)?
any other servos you would recommend, that aren't super pricey?
chachi
07-15-2002, 01:31 PM
TOO slow, not TWO slow.....maybe i am a little TOO slow.
atm92484_3
07-15-2002, 03:48 PM
Hitec servos are fine as long as you get decent ones. My friend stripped the 303 on his GT RTR in a matter of days after buying the truck. On the other hand, I have a 615MG in my GT and I've had no problems with it. I will admit though, over a 4 year period, I've used S3003 servos in airplanes and cars and none of them have failed. Nothing beats Futaba servo's durability and quality but you do pay for it.
trxstr1961
07-15-2002, 11:18 PM
I saw your site and decided to get the OFNA linkage like yours, WOW did that make a difference in my gt..... glad i saved your link now :D
Just wish you would post more.
trxstr1961
07-15-2002, 11:26 PM
Since i rebuilt my gt, ive replaced:
front body mounts:)
wheels and tires (from a evader) :)
linkage( bought new OFNA linkage)
new body (proline silverado body)
WANT: 2 bodies( crowd pleaser and triton) :)
Heckler
07-16-2002, 01:39 AM
Help! its not moving!
on from page 202, i've checked my slipper, its good. trans is ok... however, I seem to be missing a clutch spring, which controls the two shoes. might that be a problem? my wheels spin if I lift it up, but when its on the ground, my truck just won't move!
aaarrrggghhhh
kxpedder7
07-16-2002, 03:00 AM
Anyone have a rc10 that they would want to get rid of or trade for a Nice barely used RTR Clod?
Let me know
Kxpedder7
Big Wig
07-16-2002, 07:05 AM
I built a new GT this year. I installed RPM dual stage pistons (blue in rear and red in front) and Progressive Suspension piggy back resevoirs. I've been using blue springs front and rear and 30wt oil all around. This starting set up was offered to me by Dave Cresenzi.
This combo has given me the best bump handling GT I've driven yet and by far the most steering I've ever seen in a GT. It jumps like crap though! I can get a lot of distance since I'm one of the few that can clear the triple at our track but it's just too hard to keep it level in the air. It usually violently endos or jumps nose high. My car requires a lot of input in the air and a lot of care on how I approach the jump. The other guys seem to be able to hit the jumps all willy-nilly with no problem at all.
I just changed my set up a little bit and I'm wondering what you all think.
yelow pistons in the rear
red pistons in front
35wt oil in rear
40wt oil in front
blue springs all around
I also plan to pick up a set of front, silver springs on the way to the track Thursday night just in case.
Will this set up make things better or worse? I'm running the stock shock positions they give in the manual.
Thanks
Jay
hitstuff II
07-16-2002, 08:49 AM
Chachi that is a little slow but you can run it I would recomend a futaba 9202 or 9304 (they both have exactly the same specs, i have run both and find no difference). They are good servos and can take a beating plus their gear sets are cheep (however I have not stripped a gear yet).
Heckler I think your diff is too loose, I don't think any of the new gt's use clutch springs, rebuild your diff and see if that helps. Is the trany making alot of noise because you could also have a striped gear. Just rebuild the whole drive line and you will be sure to solve the prob. If you roll your car (with motor off) does the spur gear turn? If it does there is a problem in your clutch (on the motor not slipper) if your spur doesn't turn then your diff or slipper is set to loose or you have gear problems.
Railman
07-16-2002, 09:50 PM
Big Whig, I wish I could help you on the RPM shocks, but it's been about 5 years since I messed with them. I finally figured whats good enough for the factory guys will give the most cosistent results, so I settled with the std #2 front, & #1 rear pistons. From there I change springs & oil to the track conditions, & temperatures. One thing I learned from a factory guy was that the stock pistons actually do have more dampning on compresion than they do on rebound. They do this by the bevel on the edge of the shock. Part of the problem with the RPM pistons is there's not much info available as to how to set them up, or at least I've not run across it. I assume you set them up with more compresion dampning than rebound? If you clearing the jump the way you are saying, you may be over dampened on compression. If your getting that much steering, you must be pumping up the rear, while the front is settling. I also found that a little weight ( 3/4 oz in front of servo), makes my GT jump a lot flatter. How do the rpm pistons your using compare to #2's, & #1's? It could be also that you just need to find the right teqnique for your problem jump. Does it jump ok on smaller jumps? It's odd that it flips over both ways. That suggests that something is not in balance. If I had to guess, I'd say the rear is dampened too much, simply because of your comment about the steering being so good. Let me know about the pistons as far as how they compare to the stock ones.
Joe
Edit: 2's front & 1's rear, not 2's & 3's! (DRGT catch):)
trxstr1961
07-16-2002, 11:38 PM
My gt runs soo much better now that i fixed it up :) Its the RTR version.
Running the following:
evaer tires and rims
ofna linkage
os cvx .12 PS version
proline chevy body (no paint yet)
futaba radio gear
4 cell receiver pack
10t front bumper
Will get some shots of it soon,
any other hop ups needed??
violator757
07-16-2002, 11:45 PM
do you have bearings
DR.GT
07-16-2002, 11:55 PM
Railman:
Your not seriously using #3 pistons in the rear are you? The factory setup is Silver springs, 35W, #2 pistons. The rear is Green
springs, 30W, #1 pistons.
:)
trxstr1961
07-16-2002, 11:59 PM
some what yes i do, im on yahoo my id is:trx1 :)
bcrcer
07-17-2002, 12:08 AM
i have an older tub chassis rc10gt, im going to by the blu anodized new chasiiis for it, transfer everything, and i need new shocks int he back, what shocks should i get for the rear
atm92484_3
07-17-2002, 01:56 AM
I'd just get another set of the AE teflons for the rear.
bcrcer
07-17-2002, 02:18 AM
how much does a set of new springs, the blu anodized stuff go for, shocks that is for all 4, i kinda wanna do my car out in blue annodized
Big Wig
07-17-2002, 06:40 AM
Railman,
I reallly don't know how the RPM pistons compare to stock... I haven't used stock pistons at all this year. My car jumps funny even on real small jumps - if it was just the big stuff I'd live with it, I can always flatten it out in the air. It jumps far, just not flat ;-)
Besides the jumping problem my car handles unbelievable and I'm driving around that jumping problem. The fact that my GT sticks so well is reason for me not to give up on the RPM pistons just yet. I think you're right by saying something is out of balance. I think I'll drive it with my newly changed oils and rear pistons, see what I think and then maybe throw stiffer springs on the front and drive some more... I'm sure it will be close ;-)
thanks for your input
Jay
newtobuggies
07-17-2002, 07:11 AM
how fast are they??? what is the thing that breaks the most? how do they jump if u got pic could u post them
thanks ricky
Railman
07-17-2002, 08:05 AM
DRGT, What you posted is exactly what I'm running oudoors Indoors are in the winter, & I usually run 30, 30 there with same springs. Occaisionally I run blue fronts. For some reason, I get the 1 & 3 numbers swapped sometimes. I know that the front needs more dampning, due to big shock cantilever, where the rear is out near the wheel, but the numbers seem backwards to me. It has to do with the fact that a bigger number means a smaller hole. I never swap pistons around, so I forget them sometimes. Thanks for the catch!
Joe
trxstr1961
07-17-2002, 03:21 PM
Well,just painted the new bod for my gt, its a proline chevy silverado,painted metallic burgendy with silver plates and black roll bar. Will get pics soon :-):cool:
trxstr1961
07-17-2002, 04:28 PM
dang it! >:( just hit my mail box,SNAP goes a front arm, need to get extras OR a set of rpm arms (i think)
fly boygt
07-17-2002, 05:00 PM
hey all, this thread keeps going, well i was wondering about some setup tips, i am running on a hardpacked track, not quite blue grooving yet because it is new, dusty when it becomes dry and tacky when wet, so i was wondering what springs, shock oil should i run front and rear, i currently have silver springs with 30 weight in the front, and 35 weight and red srings in the rear to give me a bit more steering, and proline edges up front, and bow-tie t's in the rear. There is one big table top about 3 feet high and acouple little jumps. Thanks :)
rc10gtisthebest
07-17-2002, 06:00 PM
you should soften up the back. I had red springs with 37.5 wt oil and i switched to blue springs so that the arms are level and it drove a whole lot better. I use Hole Shot tires fom pro-line. And edges up front.
rc10gtisthebest
07-17-2002, 06:04 PM
Originally posted by trxstr1961
dang it! >:( just hit my mail box,SNAP goes a front arm, need to get extras OR a set of rpm arms (i think)
Go with rpm's they are more flexible so if you broadside a wall or so one broadsides you (vise versa) thy will just flex and niot snap. But on the other hand i have had go results with both. It's up to you.
bad6as
07-17-2002, 11:25 PM
how can i make my factory team rc10gt pull a wheely i got the stock gearing and a novarossi cx.12. please help
Get some good traction and tighten the slipper all the way down. Then, go full throttle from a standstill.
Ryche
07-18-2002, 12:03 AM
has anyone here broken the rpm arms... are they just heavier duty, or are the indestructable.. thanx..
They are pretty strong. I have some, but I don't even use them. I think they are under warranty aren't they?
Ryche
07-18-2002, 12:18 AM
dont use them?.. hmmmm wanna get rid of em.. :D
bcrcer
07-18-2002, 12:23 AM
hey guys i have a older vseio rc10gt, which im getting he blue chassis for along with eevrythign else blue, or i might keep the old stuff, get bearinsg for it int he back and make it fast befor looks, i also need a start box
what shock setup int he back do u suggest, it hink i need to do a rebuild, shoud i just get new shocks now??
The RPM arms are the only spare arms I have! LOL, that sounds funny, doesn't it?
trxstr1961
07-18-2002, 03:12 PM
Originally posted by bcrcer
i have an older tub chassis rc10gt, im going to by the blu anodized new chasiiis for it, transfer everything, and i need new shocks int he back, what shocks should i get for the rear
what r u going to do with the old tub?? id like to buy it from u for a spare for my nds i have
newtobuggies
07-18-2002, 08:04 PM
hey guys
what would be the best pipe of the rc10gt????
it would be a rc10gt with the stock motor.
also if you have pics of your rc10gt post them it is allways cool to see other rc10gt!!!
thanks for any help
violator757
07-18-2002, 09:10 PM
the AE tuned pipe seems to be what just about evryone uses
jcnmt
07-18-2002, 09:44 PM
hey trxstr1961 i have a tub chassis i could sell you!lmk!
atm92484_3
07-18-2002, 10:06 PM
TRX, the GT tub chassis is about 1/4" longer than the NDS tub chassis. Its not that big of a deal; you can just cut the extra material off with a Dremel.
trxstr1961
07-19-2002, 12:54 AM
yo jc, u got a pm
Today went to ht in indy and got enough stuff to get my nds running again,plus fix my gt so, i should be running again next week:)
newtobuggies
07-19-2002, 07:01 AM
hey guys
does any one here use the stinger or the cvce pipe
if so how does it work??
thanks
ricky
hitstuff II
07-19-2002, 03:27 PM
I put a cvec in my gt and noticed no real diffrence it just sounds better. I would save your money and buy new tires or something.
coolracer47
07-19-2002, 07:19 PM
My pullstart just went on me. I just oiled that one-way bearing two weeks ago and now its slipping again. I'm having such a terrible time with this pullstart. I think I'm just going to replace the whole pullstart system. I already went through two bearings and this is not going to be my third. I've had it!:mad:
maddog0559
07-19-2002, 08:02 PM
Has anybody tried to use CO2 to remove the air from the fuel can? Seems like this would keep moisture out. Don't know if it will react to the nitro though. :confused:
trxstr1961
07-20-2002, 09:18 PM
now i got the gt running along nicely, just took pics of it too.:)
today: Muncie, ind. sunday,7-21-2002
Heat index: 100 degrees
Temp:95
skys:partly cloudy
TALK about a schorcher:eek: !!! pant pant pant
GT BABY
07-21-2002, 12:35 PM
man this sucks i went 70 miles to the nearest hobby shop to get parts and fuel but i got the wrong fuel my dad wouldnt stop yappin to me and i accidently grabbed 30% monster horsepiwer instead of 20% and i got a race commin up and i wont be back for two weeks iam bummed
b_madd
07-21-2002, 05:40 PM
Im makin a trip to the hobby shop tomorrow. Heres a list of the goods to purchase:
1)Front right A-arm
2)New glo igniter
3)Air Filter
4)Rear tires
I think thats about it.
b madd
violator757
07-21-2002, 05:49 PM
i dont think the sell a arms in singles lol you can get a set for 6 bucks usally for the stock set
trxstr1961
07-21-2002, 06:09 PM
is the stock RTR chassis suppose to be a little curved or flat straight?? just noticed this, and what r the setting for a os cvx .12 out the box??:confused:
Ryche
07-21-2002, 07:03 PM
i'd say use the 30%.. not going to really hurt anything, as long as you retune your engine for the higher nitro content...
Ryche..
Does anyone know the part number for the rtr engine pullstart? i dont have a manual so i cant look it up...
trxstr1961
07-21-2002, 10:35 PM
tower has that part listed :-)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAYY9
Hope this helps:)
violator757
07-21-2002, 10:44 PM
trx the rtr chassis has a very slight curve to it and the side are kinda beveled but other than that there should be nothig major about the curve
trxstr1961
07-22-2002, 05:25 AM
ok, thanks for the info, that lets me breathe easier now :):) :p
hitstuff II
07-22-2002, 03:40 PM
Gt baby I would also go to a colder plug
GT BABY
07-22-2002, 06:28 PM
ya iam gonna be racing on a realy small tight track can u guy give me the best setup possible i have m2 gladiators on the rear iam running a 12 cvr i dont know what the surface of the track ic like i do know it has a roof over it please post on what would be a good setup
Leinzey
07-22-2002, 07:16 PM
Would anyone happen to have a decent baseline on-road setup? The track is fairly large with a 135' straight, but the infield is rather tight. I'm just looking for springs, shock oil, shock position, and pistons. I'll worry about camber and toe on my own. Thanks.
trxstr1961
07-23-2002, 04:07 AM
My gt story goes like this:
Traded my stampede back in march for this truck. Found out that RTR= READY TO REBUILD! so rebuild it i did, it was in need of ALOT of work.
so after 3 months of part buying and such, ITS ALIVE! got the following for it :
os cvx 12 (used) :)
new rear axels(swiped them from my ds) :D
2 new bodys
refilled the shocks and added new spring to rear set
new wheels and tires, then found that evader rims fit perfectly:rolleyes:
new fuel cell, old one was FUBAR :mad:
OFNA linkage kit
purple ball ends and pipe coupler
new RRP spur gear 66t
new 10t front bumper,cut to fit the gt
Finally got the engine running right, now my gt hauls A S S and takes names. Havent raced yet, but want to real bad now! :)
Too bad our club disbanned :(
hitstuff II
07-23-2002, 02:24 PM
what is a good all around gt setup
rc10gtisthebest
07-23-2002, 04:34 PM
I will post pics of my setup.
FRONT:
rc10gtisthebest
07-23-2002, 04:37 PM
REAR:
rc10gtisthebest
07-23-2002, 04:47 PM
That is my shock setup. For Gearing is use 62 tooth Spur and 18t Clutch bell. And MIP 4 in 1 Clutch.
Other info.
Front
Toe In= 0 deg.
Camber= 0 deg.
Ride Hieght= Arms level
Rear
Toe in= 3 deg. (RPM Arm carrier)
Camber= 0deg.
Ride Height= Bones Level.
Shock clips= 5/16"
That is my setup.
Hope this helps.
-Todd
b_madd
07-23-2002, 10:00 PM
Ive spent 70$ today and yesterday on my gt rtr. heres what i got:
1)Pro-Line Step-pin M3s 15$
2)Losi wheels 6$ (all they had)
3)Front A-Arms 6$
4)MIP CVD kit for gt 30$
5)Air Filter 7$
gettin ready for the race (a week from saturday)
b madd
newtobuggies
07-24-2002, 07:05 AM
hey rc10gt drivers
have any of you tryed the .21 upgrade from rc raven?? if so how is it working.. and what .21 did u put in it
thanks for the help
ricky
hitstuff II
07-24-2002, 10:03 AM
I wouldn't do it if the gt was made for a 21 it would have the engine mounts for it in the box. Just save your $ and buy a top of the line .12 or .15 but a .21 would probably destroy your gears over time unless you go all aluminum and steel gears. New eara also makes the conversion, they also have a double deck gt chasis. Rc10 gt is the best thanks for the info, what is good for on road?
jcnmt
07-24-2002, 11:34 AM
hey GTX how you gonna make your gt withmaxx suspension? i would like to know because i have parts laying around and want to make one!thanks!
:cool:
hitstuff II
07-24-2002, 12:12 PM
another question, can I adjust the ball diff without taking apart the tranny, if so how? I think there is a screw you tighten but I forget which side it is on:confused:
atm92484_3
07-24-2002, 01:03 PM
Hit, if you assembled the tranny properly, you'll access the screw from the passenger side of the truck (not exhaust side). To get to it, I just unscrew the screw that holes the end of the turnbuckle with the captured end.
New, don't get a .21. The GT is overpowered with a hot small block; a .21 will just destroy the tranny and other parts.
rc10gtisthebest
07-24-2002, 01:19 PM
Originally posted by hitstuff II
Rc10 gt is the best thanks for the info, what is good for on road?
That setup will handle very well on-road aswell as off-road.
rc10gtisthebest
07-24-2002, 01:21 PM
A .21 in a GT will chew up every gear in your tranny. Just get a top of the Line .15 or .12 and save your self some money and fustration.
hitstuff II
07-24-2002, 02:18 PM
I tried passenger side but It was not there, it was on driver side:confused: is this bad for my car, I've had it this way since last year.
hitstuff II
07-24-2002, 03:08 PM
Rc10gtisthebest, thanks for the setup, I modified it a little, I did everything to the letter except in the front end instead of the blue springs I'm keeping on my silvers, the ride hight in the front and the rear is exactley the same. I have found that on my electric cars when both the front and rear a arms are paralell to the ground (as they both are on my gt) it gives my car a neutral handeling (isn't too tight or loose). As for my diff I tightned it and it fells more like it should, before it seemed really loose because I could easally turn the spur gear when I held both wheels. Would a slipping diff lower the top speed of my car, because yesterday when I was running the car it sounded like the engine was reving at top speed but the car didn't really feel like it was going very fast.
atm92484_3
07-24-2002, 03:47 PM
Originally posted by hitstuff II
I tried passenger side but It was not there, it was on driver side:confused: is this bad for my car, I've had it this way since last year.
Ya thats not good since the torque from the engine will cause the diff to loosen. Open the tranny, remove the outdrives, and reverse which side they are on. Just make sure you do not flip the gear since it has already been "broken in" to the idler gear.
OldskoolGT
07-24-2002, 04:47 PM
hitstuff II,
Yes, a slipping diff will dramatically lower the top speed and acceleration of your truck.
GT BABY
07-24-2002, 07:50 PM
is a titanium topshaft lighter than the stock one and is the mip header better than the header that comes with a ftgt
atm92484_3
07-24-2002, 11:28 PM
I'd say the titanium shaft is lighter but IMO, it isn't worth the money. The stock topshaft is more than sufficient for the GT and the weight lost will be less than noticable (if it were electric, it may be another story). I don't have any experience with the MIP header but supposedly people like it since it comes preported for most engines so the buyer doesn't need to take a Dremel to it. If you want to save a few bucks, just break out the Dremel (if you have one that is) and a grinding bit and port the AE header a little bit.
jcnmt
07-25-2002, 12:44 PM
sup?i need some help what would be some good hopups for an rtr gt?it already has bearings.this is a competitevly raced gt so let me know what to get!:cool:
hitstuff II
07-25-2002, 12:51 PM
could I just flip around the diff gear along with the rest of the tranny gears. Wow I never thought of that, the diff loosening from the torque from the engine. I will fix the prob although I isn't a huge problem because it has been a year since my last rebuild and it just got loose now. I tightened the diff and ran the truck yesterday with much better results. Except for one thing, my car kept flipping on sharp turns even when I was on the brakes, I don't know why. Although it flips less than before rc10gtisthebest gave me his set up but I still can't take turns as fast as I'd like, any ideas. I'm running on a very rough pavement (the taxi way of an old airport) so my tires have tons of grip. Also has anyone run an os cv tr in their gt, I got mine but I'm wondering wheather if would be a good engine for off road. But I think for now my cvr is fine.
b_madd
07-25-2002, 06:33 PM
jcnmt i got the same truck and one thing i would definately get would be mip cvds. i ordered some for mine tues. the reason is if you want to put on new tires with new wheels your gonna have to.the axle is diffrent. then titanium turnbuckles.(lunsford)
b madd
rc10gtisthebest
07-25-2002, 06:58 PM
HitStuff,
What tires are you using? And when you go into a fast turn let off the gas but don't give it brake. And about 1/2 of the wsay through the turn give it gas.
Your truck probably has to much grip. I know when i use my Road Rage's that I have to much traction so i would do a traction roll.
jcnmt
07-25-2002, 08:24 PM
ok thanks!
Hey guys, im having a setup crisis with my gt rtr. IT DOESNT TURN!!!!! ah! ok, there, i let it out. The rear suspension is stiffer than stock and im using bowties. The front is all stock. It seems soo soft for me. When i go into a turn, the turning radius is pretty big, i just cant get the "slice" i want, its always just a big wide open turn? help!
trxstr1961
07-25-2002, 09:53 PM
i just found out that my gt, when i give it FULL THROTTLE, takes foreve to get up to speed,it winds out, but goes nowhere fast. i need some serioius help here, please??? i dont want to ruin this awsome truck
atm92484_3
07-25-2002, 11:25 PM
Edz, try stiffening the rear springs to help bring the weight onto the front tires (blue or green springs should be a good starting point). You might want to try adding weight to the nose.
Trx, has the weather changed at all? It may just need a little tuning or possibly a new glow plug.
trxstr1961
07-25-2002, 11:38 PM
atm, your nds is awsome, how do u NOT wear out your tires?? mine wore out on the inner side, now i run foams, found camber was WAY off, but still, want that stang of yours
I am in the process of putting my team kit rc10gt together. I have just finished the transmission assembly and now i am on the brake assembly. The manual says I need to put a rollpin in the drive shaft (gear meshing with idler that sticks out of the case). I cannot seem to fit the roll pin into the small hole. Any tips on how to get it in? Also, has anyone else had this problem? Thanx
GT BABY
07-26-2002, 12:33 AM
hey guys took the gt racing for the first time heres how i finished firt heat 2nd lost because my airfilter came off 2 heat led for the first 4 laps blobed it up and ended up in 3rd lasty heat made it 5 laps in i was in third when i went do the straight tuned at the ends my rear bulhead broke and i rolled 5 time still got third on the count of laps didnt make it to the main because i didnt have a bulkhead and it was my first time racing i am proud of myself everbody said i had the most spectacular wreck though
GT BABY
07-26-2002, 01:21 AM
hey guys quick question how will different tire inserts make ur car perform
atm92484_3
07-26-2002, 01:28 AM
Generally, softer inserts will result in more traction (used on a lower traction surface). However, depending on the tire/foam combo, you may end up with excess tire wear with softer inserts. The opposite is true with foams; generally a harder foam will yield less traction (used on higher traction surfaces).
TRX, thanks for the compliment. Those tires only had a few tanks on them in the pics, but I found removing all rear toe-in greatly extended the tires' life. I too had a problem with them wearing on the inner edges. The only down side is the car is a hand full to drive with no toe-in (but it sure is fun for fishtailing and drifting); I might go back to maybe only 2 or 3 degrees compared to the 6 the car came with. What you can't see in the pic though is the amount of slop everything has from all the road time the car has seen. I am seriously considering buying just a NDS qualifier kit and just taking the chassis brace, engine, exhaust, bearings, and shocks over to the new car, just to give the car a little bit of an overhaul.
trxstr1961
07-26-2002, 11:39 AM
Originally posted by jcnmt
hey trxstr1961 i have a tub chassis i could sell you!lmk!
just send me a e-mail...trx1@yahoo.com.. want that caassis:D
I am in the process of putting my team kit rc10gt together. I have just finished the transmission assembly and now i am on the brake assembly. The manual says I need to put a rollpin in the drive shaft (gear meshing with idler that sticks out of the case). I cannot seem to fit the roll pin into the small hole. Any tips on how to get it in? Also, has anyone else had this problem? Thanx
nelson8708
07-26-2002, 04:54 PM
any one want to buy a RC10GT RTR. Never been raced. Have only ran one gallon of fuel throught.
200.00$$$$
controler
truck
engine
half a gallor of odonnel 20%
6 spare tires
rechrgeable glow start
with charger
4 extra springs
after run oil
manul
box
E-mail me at nelson8708@aol.com
atm92484_3
07-26-2002, 06:15 PM
Scmc, I've had tricky rollpins before. My best advice is to keep trying. In a few cases, I've found it helps to compress the pin a little bit.
GT BABY
07-26-2002, 06:22 PM
hey guys i need help choosing a rear tire my track is a little unpredictable its really bumpy and has a light a mount of dust but when the water it it gets really tack i was thinkin maybe a step pin bow tie squared fuzzy i know with my gladiators when the track was a little dusty it spun out quite a bit please answer
trxstr1961
07-26-2002, 10:39 PM
Took the truck apart today, can u say FUBAR diff?? Bought all new stuff to rebuild the diff, will see if that helps it run any better:confused:
Also, i have a ton of gt pics here on my album, chek them out
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/trx1/lst?.dir=/Wilsons++Wheels&.view=t
trxstr1961
07-27-2002, 11:02 AM
found a nice little board that has a section for gt lovers on it who runs this site:confused:
http://pub84.ezboard.com/brc10gtcommunity
DaMaXXer
07-27-2002, 11:58 AM
Icedteamaxx runs it it looks
hitstuff II
07-27-2002, 08:41 PM
I'm running dirt hawgs, but they do seem to be griping well because it is very hard to spin the car. How do I get less rear traction, do I stiffen or loosen the rear? By the way nice job racing gt baby
GT BABY
07-27-2002, 10:23 PM
thanx i think iam gonna settle on the step pins with medium in serts got a few parts for the gt today robinson racing steele spur and clutch bell mip o rings some black spring and some new ball studs
atm92484_3
07-28-2002, 12:39 AM
Hitstuff, if you stiffen the rear it will reduce traction.
GT BABY
07-28-2002, 03:46 PM
hey guys iam considering buying a new air filter iam choosin between the blue allunium trinty or the motro savers dont know any thing about the trinty so tell me a little
atm92484_3
07-28-2002, 04:47 PM
IMO the AE filters (paper and foam) are the best. If I were you, thats what I would get and don't bother with the Trinity or MS. They are about $7.50: replacement foams are $2.50 for 4 and the paper element is $2.50 for one.
GT BABY
07-28-2002, 05:28 PM
what about the trinty how good is it
atm92484_3
07-28-2002, 07:40 PM
That airfilter doesn't look that great for offroad. You're asking for engine problems if you run an onroad filter like that.
GT BABY
07-28-2002, 08:46 PM
does an airfilter with a silacone elbow like 1?8 scales have make any mor power if they do can u give me the part numbers to some airfilters that will
jcnmt
07-28-2002, 09:13 PM
sup guys? i want to know if i would have to do any tranny upgrades for a 1.7 hp engine?thanks!:D
OldskoolGT
07-28-2002, 10:05 PM
I agree completely with atm92484_3 about the Associated filter, it's the best you can buy for a .12-.15 engine. Paper filters provide very good filration and flow more air compared to a foam filter (like the OS). And you should be able to find a crankcase breather at the auto parts store that is the exact same part as the Assoc. filter for about $1.00.
ritchies rc10gt
07-28-2002, 11:01 PM
Originally posted by OldskoolGT
And you should be able to find a crankcase breather at the auto parts store that is the exact same part as the Assoc. filter for about $1.00.
actually it is a fuel filter for GM cars and trucks
atm92484_3
07-29-2002, 12:10 AM
Whatever it is, make sure you use a foam element on the outside and make sure the element is oiled. Paper alone will be almost as bad as running no filter.
trxstr1961
07-29-2002, 11:57 AM
this past weekend i found what the most important hop us is:
nope, not tires
nope, not rims
nope not even the mill in it
the NO1 most important hop up for th gt is................................................ ............................ tada!!! the TRS!
Yep the thottle return spring is the MOST important hop up if you want to stop THE DREADED RUNAWAYS! why they dont include it in there kits i have no clue...OH wait yes i do.... parts break cause of this desease and their the doctor!
GT BABY
07-29-2002, 06:15 PM
are the dynamite headers any good campared with the associated one
dustint
07-30-2002, 10:27 AM
Ive got a new rc10gt rtr plus, and Im wanting to get a nice set of chrome/plastic rims and tires. Whats a good tire rim combo to go for thats reasonable priced and good on all types of dirt surfaces. The stock front tires have little grip, and I know the knobbies in the rear are ok but already showing signs of wear.
Thanks for any advice,
Dustin
hitstuff II
07-30-2002, 12:35 PM
If you bash I would go dirt hawgs front and rear. And about chrom rims I know they sound cool and all that but the chrome comes of over time and makes the wheel look like crap stick with the white wheels, if you don't like white you can dye them (dye won't scratch off).
trxstr1961
07-30-2002, 01:34 PM
:confused: does blue lock tite really help with the engine mounting screws staying in place?? added a RRP metal spur gear today, no more stripped spurs!:)
atm92484_3
07-30-2002, 04:26 PM
Now you have stripped clutchbells. :D
hitstuff II
07-30-2002, 04:34 PM
Yes blue locktite does work, very well I swear by it anytime you tread a screw through metal use locktite, blue not red, red is hard to work loose. Also remeber to use it on nuts, that aren't locknuts. Also if you set a proper gear mesh you shouldn't strip the spur, that is unless you have your engine moving because of screws backing out.
rc10gtisthebest
07-31-2002, 09:09 AM
Speaking of spurs i just stripped mine so i won't be able to take it to GA when i go up there this weekend :(
dustint
07-31-2002, 10:25 AM
I finally pulled my carb restrictor out after running about half a gallon of fuel through my gt rtr plus. What Ive found is that the throttle linkage and return spring cannot handle the carb opening. The spring doesnt pull the carb closed enough to keep a low idle, and having this much play in the linkage makes the motion inconsistant. What I mean is that when dealing with the small hole in the carb restrictor, it was very easy to trim to a good low idle and it only needed a small amount of movement to open up the carb fully. Now with the carb restrictor out I cant keep the linkage moving clean. Once I do get the carb movement tuned the best I can, granted a high idle and all, the brake wont engage because of the setting the servo needs to close the carb. So I need some help tuning and have a few questions about the gt throttle linkage. First, could I get a carb restrictor with a slightly bigger hole, or I guess I could just drill a slightly larger hole in it as I think this would give me the power I need and half the amount of play the linkage would have to travel. Second, can you upgrade or tweak the linkage in such a way as to get a smoother movement out of it. Am I just not setting it up right or are their issues with the springs and servo arm supplied stock? Ive been in rc, on and off, for about 15 years now, Nitro for about 5 weeks, so I do understand servos and throttle linkage etc. So I was fine until I removed the restrictor, and my lhs guy is telling me I should be able to remove it and tune the truck with no problems???
Thanks in advance for any input.
Dustin
Atlanta GA
trxstr1961
07-31-2002, 04:42 PM
what in the world is a carb restrictor?? and what does it do?
dont kill me if im wrong, but i think it restricts air flow and leans out the engine, corect me if im wrong. Dustin, You sound like you know what you're doing so keep working on it. On the throttle brake servo, there should be 2 small flathead screws attaching a brake adapter (servo horn). Take those two screws out, let the servo go to idle (while the elctrics are running) and try to place the screws somewhere on the servo horn where the engine would be idling and the brake would'nt be applied. Keep on testing new combos for those screws and you will get it eventually:) good luck!
atm92484_3
08-01-2002, 10:31 AM
You're correct in a way. It is actually this little insert that goes in the throat of the carb to make the opening smaller. It reduces the power the engine has and makes it a lot easier to control, especially on slick surfaces. Since there is less air, you need to lean the mixture to keep the same fuel:air ratio.
dustint
08-01-2002, 11:09 AM
Yes the carb restrictor is the size of the carb opening and has a small hole in it to restrict air flow to the carb. It comes stock in the rc10gt rtr plus. With this sucker out the engine screams, where the front wheels stay off the ground and sort of bounce as the back wheels push the car into light speed. I cannot get the engine tuned down to a manageable level with the restrictor out, but I think Ive found a solution. Associated makes 3 different sizes of restrictors, and Im going to pick up the largest one. This should help with my servo travel problem and my idle tuning problem. The restrictors tend to have the hole off center, so you can stick it in the carb and rotate it to the liking of you throttle linkage. This should give me the power I need while maintaining the air flow to a controllable level. Wish me luck...
-Dustin
hitstuff II
08-01-2002, 12:17 PM
I wish I could help you but I'm confused what does a carb restrictor have to do withservo travel?
hitstuff II
08-01-2002, 12:24 PM
Ok, I read it again and I think i got it, you should be able to tune the engine without the restrictor, you just need some time to figure it out. To get the linkages right, you just have to play around with the linkagers untill they are to your liking.
gigbyt
08-01-2002, 10:02 PM
where is the absolute cheapest place to buy a factory team rc10 gt, thanx,, gigbyt.
losiking1o1
08-01-2002, 11:45 PM
ok a yar ago i got an rc10gt for christmas, and i ran the first and second tank of breakin, and then my uncle took over, and theres no tellin what he did with it, so the next week when i get back from my dads house i drive it and have alot of fun with it. then the problems started. first the rear bulkhead broke and threw the dogbone into outerspace, and then my rodends always broke, so i fanally got that junk fixed and my spur gear stripped, i had a good mesh and stuff, but they stripped 1 by 1. and when i got them to stop stripping(i put threadlock on the screws that hold it in) the other problems started...
when i drove it, and let it idle, it was kinda high, and u couldnt hear noise coming from the exhaust, u could just hear the engine, it did this for a while, and gas would spit out of the exhaust occasionally, so when i richined it up an hour, it goes wide open, but it doesnt move :confused: and i take off the air cleaner to plug the throat, and i noticed that it was closed, at an idle position, but it ran wide open, and you couldnt hear noise from the exhaust, so then i had pretty much enough of it and sold it for 295 for everything.
now i dont know wether to try the gt again (rtrplus) because i dont like to spend much, or just say no to nitro or get a xxxnt rtr?????:confused: i dont know what to do; could any one tell me what the above symtoms are?
GT BABY
08-02-2002, 01:56 AM
hey guys got back from racing again heres how it went down first race i got second was in first for a while and kept trading places with a xxnt sport finall got just a hair of a lead i spun out and got stuck under the wall and i swear it took the corner marshels 30 second to realike i was stuck secon race i died on the line cause the starter kept delayin the ray my cvr loaded up and died so i went down 2 laps got back out the and finished in 3 rd i didnt make the main cause i died again and i started glitching so i packed it up and hedded home i also took my friend with his ported rustler he didnt get to race in the first heat glitch and drive yoke came out next heat he was bearylly gettin on it and the engine ripped out the diff finaly i met a guy who put a harcored head on his 15cvr he said it work cause da got the same block as a cv so iam gonna get one for my 12cvr
hitstuff II
08-02-2002, 11:03 AM
Losi king all I can say is the gt is a great truck, I don't quite understand what your problems are, that is weird you hit full throtal and the car won't move. Does anyone know the tread and length if the screws that bolt the motor mount to the chasis.
brianracer
08-02-2002, 07:25 PM
WELL I AM THINKING OF GETTING A GT RTR PLUS. ONCE I SELL MY RUSTLER ILL WRITE HERE MORE OFFEN WHEN (OR IF) I GET IT
GT RULZ
-BRIANRACER-
;)
hitstuff II
08-02-2002, 08:15 PM
Losiking, I just got some Ideas your car may have had a bad centrifical clutch (not lickley though) you may have had a slipping slipper clutch, or a VERY loose ball diff. Do you remember whether or not the spur gear was turning, if it was it was either your slipper or your diff.
adim_x
08-02-2002, 10:22 PM
Do any of you guys know what that white carb thingy in the ready to run is for. Also was anybody elses brakes locked up when they first when to use their car.
atm92484_3
08-02-2002, 10:39 PM
The white piece is a carb restrictor. It simply reduces power and makes the car easier to drive. If you choose to remove it, make sure you richen the mixture since more air will be able to enter the carb.
adim_x
08-03-2002, 11:59 PM
thanks for the info on the carb restrictor. Do any of you guys use the mip clutch, also does anybody know of a good receiver cover for the rc10gt
atm92484_3
08-04-2002, 01:27 AM
Almost everyone here uses the MIP clutch. Its one of the first upgrades people do. If you are interested in a receiver cover, Trinity makes one or you can modify a T-Maxx receiver box and mount it on the GT like I did. Click on my WWW button for pics. If you get RCCA, look in the Feb. 2002 edition of Pit Tips for my instructions. If not, I'll post them sometime.
jnegrx
08-04-2002, 03:14 AM
adim_x you can also use the box from a ntc3. It fits just right and doesn't stick out of the chassis. I just placed it on the factory piece but passed a longer screw with a lock nut. If you do it rigth you may be able to pass the two screws and hold it very securely. Just in case i also used a little servotape to fit the two pieces.
DanzST
08-04-2002, 08:49 AM
I'm in the process of trading to get my first RC10GT. I want to know from you all if this is a good truck? What type of performance you have gotten out of it? Was it hard to tune? What would you upgrade first? It is a factory team model. Please PM me or leave responses here, my email server is down and I can't get emails right now. Thanks for the help.
Dan
Insane Rival
08-04-2002, 03:17 PM
OK, my gt needs some work. its pretty old, so, things like break. what should be some stuff to get while i restore this thing? its got a blue chassis, its the rtr version, right before this new plus version
atm92484_3
08-04-2002, 03:59 PM
Jnegrx, how did you mount the antenna on?
Insane, the GT RTR isn't that old (18 months tops). Just stock up on stuff that looks worn or has broken in the past.
jnegrx
08-05-2002, 02:18 AM
atm
Since i used the factory receiver mount i just used longer screws to hold the box, i just placed the antenna at the factory location.
Pro3/nmt105
08-05-2002, 10:58 AM
Originally posted by losiking1o1
ok a yar ago i got an rc10gt for christmas, and i ran the first and second tank of breakin, and then my uncle took over, and theres no tellin what he did with it, so the next week when i get back from my dads house i drive it and have alot of fun with it. then the problems started. first the rear bulkhead broke and threw the dogbone into outerspace, and then my rodends always broke, so i fanally got that junk fixed and my spur gear stripped, i had a good mesh and stuff, but they stripped 1 by 1. and when i got them to stop stripping(i put threadlock on the screws that hold it in) the other problems started...
when i drove it, and let it idle, it was kinda high, and u couldnt hear noise coming from the exhaust, u could just hear the engine, it did this for a while, and gas would spit out of the exhaust occasionally, so when i richined it up an hour, it goes wide open, but it doesnt move :confused: and i take off the air cleaner to plug the throat, and i noticed that it was closed, at an idle position, but it ran wide open, and you couldnt hear noise from the exhaust, so then i had pretty much enough of it and sold it for 295 for everything.
now i dont know wether to try the gt again (rtrplus) because i dont like to spend much, or just say no to nitro or get a xxxnt rtr?????:confused: i dont know what to do; could any one tell me what the above symtoms are?
sounds like u just need to learn how to tune ure engine, throttle linkage, and slipper clutch
jcnmt
08-05-2002, 11:10 AM
hey guys!i went racing this weekend and tq'ed and got 1st in the mains.how did you all do?:D
hitstuff II
08-05-2002, 11:47 AM
I know I asked this before but no one answered, does anyone know the size and treed type of the screws that bolt the motor mount to the chasis.
atm92484_3
08-05-2002, 12:37 PM
Those screws are 6-32 x 3/8". (7773 if you're interested)
hitstuff II
08-05-2002, 03:20 PM
thanx alot, what do you mean 7773 (part #?). I always strip the hex head, so I'm going to by the same screw only with a flat head so it is harder to strip.
FT RC10GT
08-05-2002, 03:21 PM
Hey,
I am wondering if the RB Concepts X12T motor will fit in a Factory Team RC10GT. I have heard that the power is unbelievable. My main question is will it fit. My second question would be what do yall think of the motor? I have heard that it is one of the fastest .12s around . Thanks in advance for yalls opinions and help. Oh, do yall think that an O.S. CV-R .15 can outrun an X12T? What do you think I should get for a really fast racing motor (it does not have to be legal)?
Thanks Again
Skateboarder
08-05-2002, 05:30 PM
Hey, its been a while that Ive posted here. Anyway I stille have my FT GT and its running really well.
Just thought Id drop by and say Hi.
Oh and heres a pic of the last time I went bashing.
jnegrx
08-05-2002, 08:25 PM
Does anyone know if an all new Gt is in the works. I think the electric t3 is about ready to be replaced by a t4?? But how about the GT. I know it's a great truck but the basic design has over 10 years now.
Ok, im posting this here becuase i realy need a quick answer. I bought some new shiny cvd's in the 3/16 axle size. My old ones were 1/4 inch axle, and now my wheels dont fit. I checked pro-lines site and there is only one size wheel!HELP!!!
bad6as
08-05-2002, 11:57 PM
drill a biger hole in your wheel
atm92484_3
08-06-2002, 12:22 AM
Originally posted by jnegrx
Does anyone know if an all new Gt is in the works. I think the electric t3 is about ready to be replaced by a t4?? But how about the GT. I know it's a great truck but the basic design has over 10 years now.
Actually this is the GT's 10th year but that is only for the name. This current design is only about 1.5 years old. AE has yet to change the GT's name (if they did, we'd be on GT4): they've only changed the parts. I wouldn't worry about your new GT will be outdated shortly after you buy it. I see atleast another year or two before the new update, and when that update occurs, the new parts will without a doubt be compatible with the older designs.
jnegrx
08-06-2002, 12:31 AM
atm
I have had my Gt for about three years now but its has all the upgrades that associated has put out. I was just wondering because every new truck has now wide front suspention(Losi, Kyosho).
Originally posted by jnegrx
Does anyone know if an all new Gt is in the works. I think the electric t3 is about ready to be replaced by a t4?? But how about the GT. I know it's a great truck but the basic design has over 10 years now.
Yes, there is a new GT works, it should be with us later this year. The truck is going to be a completly new design and it will be able to out handle any Losi because they are going to replace the whole suspension works for the a new one.
I was talking to a very good driver at my club who drives a GT and he his sponsered by CML Distribution (they distribute AE suff over here) and he said that there is a new GT coming out soon. I emailed CML and they also said yes but they didnt have any info on it but they said that has soon has they get any they will contact me. I think they said it will be out around september time.
Ross.
hitstuff II
08-06-2002, 07:32 AM
I hope they sell a conversion like when the tub chasis got outdated, because I don't want to spend the mony to buy a new kit.
atm92484_3
08-06-2002, 05:38 PM
Ross, you sure he wasn't talking about the new nitro monster truck AE is supposedly releasing?
rc10gtisthebest
08-06-2002, 05:47 PM
Damn i need updated.
AE is making a new Nitro Monster Truck?
I didn't know that. But really AE needs to totally redesign the GT. It has been long over due.
think AE should make a 1/8 4wd Gas Buggy. That would be cool as heck.
Originally posted by atm92484_3
Ross, you sure he wasn't talking about the new nitro monster truck AE is supposedly releasing?
Nope, its going to be a stadium truck and its going to be a completly different design to the current RC10GT so there wont be any conversion kits available. The suspension is going to be re designed so it will handle has good ifnot better than the XXXNT. The info is still vaigue at the moment so we will have to wait and see.
Ross.
atm92484_3
08-06-2002, 07:05 PM
If this is the case, are you sure he isn't talking about September 2003? :D
It takes AE forever to release a car after they release the first prototype photos. Take the NTC3: it was 18 months before we saw a finished product. IMO chances are slim to none of us seeing a new gas truck from AE before the Spring (gives us time to start saving ;)).
Got Speed
08-06-2002, 07:07 PM
A new GT it's about time! Is this all just rumours or did AE actually say there in the making? If so how will it be made better? Maybe too late for me. I guess Im a traitor. Im switching to a Losi XXX-NT Adam Drake. Can a suspension get any better than the XXX-NT? I hope it's not better since Im switching now. lol:p If anyone is intrested my GT is all FT except the chassis. It has hop ups, engine, and extra parts. If anyone is intrested email at falcon247@Juno.com
jnegrx
08-06-2002, 11:03 PM
got speed
losi makes good kits but the bad thing is that they chage the design so much that when they "upgrade" the two truks are totally different. So you have to buy the hole truck in six month again. AE on the other hand makes a product that last and last but maybe to long. But i have always raced AE an they haven't let me down yet.
I didn't know they were making a monster but i don't think they will. Remember they build racing cars and trucks. Even their RTR can race without to much work. I would love it if they build a 1/8 buggy it sure would be a winner and i would buy one instantlly.
jnegrx
08-06-2002, 11:10 PM
I almost forgot i was in the AE site and someone asked if they were doing anything new for the ntc3 and they answered that they were doing something for offroad but nothing specific so lets keep our fingers crossed for it to be soon and definitely true.
atm92484_3
08-07-2002, 12:10 AM
Originally posted by jnegrx
I didn't know they were making a monster but i don't think they will. Remember they build racing cars and trucks.
Thats what I said but if you look in the General RC Forum under the AE Monster Truck post, it looks like there is some serious evidence they are going to produce one. The consensus though is that it is a co-op project with TTR. If they made a good monster truck, that would be a wise move since it is a rapidly growing, extremely popular class.
AE is defiently working on something. Whatever it is, I have a good feeling we'll know more by the first week of September.
jnegrx
08-07-2002, 01:19 AM
Found it, it looks like a monter truck, well guess we will have to wait longer for a new GT.
Anyway i think they are working on it.:(
I have changed the front end to use the T3 suspention and it works great, still working on the rear, the spur gear gets in the way but i will do it as soon as i get some time to work on it.
Got Speed
08-07-2002, 01:59 AM
Has anyone tried mounting a losi suspension or just arms on a GT? I was going to try that but I never did.
Originally posted by Got Speed
Has anyone tried mounting a losi suspension or just arms on a GT? I was going to try that but I never did.
I plan on putting Losi shocks on my RC10GT soon, My mate has put them on his NMT and they are great.
hitstuff II
08-07-2002, 08:49 AM
anyone know where pix of this mt can be found?
b_madd
08-07-2002, 05:26 PM
mip cvd kit for gt for sale bout the wrong ones been used 2 email me at braden_maddox@yahoo.com
jnegrx
08-08-2002, 01:17 AM
gotspeed
if you just put the arms of a Losi or any truck without modifying the chassis the front end is going to be too wide. I modified the chassis so it wouldn't be wider than the stock susp. The idea is that the longer the suspention arm is the better it goes through bumpy sections. In my opinion it's better to use just one brand of truck so it's not a hybrid, that is why i used the T3 complete suspention (bulkhead, shock tower, etc.)
FastEddy
08-08-2002, 01:27 AM
Anyone racing their GT on a Paved Oval?
Insane Rival
08-08-2002, 08:14 AM
well yesterday i got my GT tuned up (well my lhs did) and i switched my airtronics blazer radio over. im cutting a new PS string today. how does the cv-x preform in the GT? i want it to be faster then my stock gt, :rolleyes:
DanzST
08-08-2002, 12:38 PM
I just got an RC10GT factory built in a trade and it didn't come with any manuals or tune up guide. Is there any way someone could scan their's into their computer and email it to me? I know this would be some work, but AE wants $15 for a new one. If you can, email me at the address below or PM me with the info via this site. Thanks in advance for any help.
email:bmanpickle@aol.com.
Dan
FT RC10GT
08-08-2002, 01:58 PM
I think you can get the PDF version which is printable from the Team Associated website. Hope I helped!
Thanks
trxstr1961
08-08-2002, 03:11 PM
how do i use blue lock tite, my motor screws keep loosing and its driving me insane gggrrr:mad:
SKYNFAN
08-08-2002, 03:35 PM
To use the locktite, just wipe the threads clean, use a small amount on the threads of the screw, and screw it in. Just remember, a little dab will do ya!
bubbastump
08-08-2002, 03:41 PM
man if ae came out with an 1/8 buggie i would go broke buyin it
well last weekend was the md state gas championship (roar) didnt do to bad heat index was 104 both days poor quals saturday had 27th overall start which put in 3rd in d main i did some last min adjustments on engine had her sweet
started within 2 laps i had the lead started lapping everyone then my dumb a$$ forgot to change batteries in reciecer and radio well a few glitches later i was yelling for the guys and gal in the pits to turn off radios then went back on track then u guessed it 1.5 laps later reciver battery dies out at least i had my system saver i won as a door prize on it. ended up 8th in d main but the worst part was my friend who has a losi won the 1st place trophy for d main
FT RC10GT
08-09-2002, 10:57 AM
Hey Guys,
I was wondering if I can get a high end motor with a pilot shaft for my GT. I know that you will have to cut the shaft on whatever motor I get unless it comes from the factory with a short shaft. I guess I am just wondering if I can get a motor with a pilot shaft and cut the shaft to size or if I have to get a threaded crank cut it. I have had guys at my LHS say I can do it either way. I am kind of iffy when it comes to a standard crank because it is completely threaded. My OS is only threaded on the end. It came short from the factory. Yall's opinions and tips are much appreciated!
Thanks
FT RC10GT
08-09-2002, 10:58 AM
Hey Guys,
I was wondering if I can get a high end motor with a pilot shaft for my GT. I know that you will have to cut the shaft on whatever motor I get unless it comes from the factory with a short shaft. I guess I am just wondering if I can get a motor with a pilot shaft and cut the shaft to size or if I have to get a threaded crank cut it. I have had guys at my LHS say I can do it either way. I am kind of iffy when it comes to a standard crank because it is completely threaded. My OS is only threaded on the end. It came short from the factory. Yall's opinions and tips are much appreciated!
Thanks
KC10Chief
08-09-2002, 01:09 PM
Some of you say that AE only makes race cars. But do you realize how many people race T-Maxx's and other monster trucks? There's more T-Maxx's racing here than GT's. Sometimes I have to race those guys with my GT. If AE made a monster truck, I know I'd buy one. If they made it in a kit, that would be awesome! I don't know of any good monster truck made in a kit. I have a T-Maxx and I hate it. It's always breaking. If they could make one that's dependable, that would be awesome. If they made a 1/8th scale buggy, I'd probably get into that as well. I also wish they made a 4WD drive 10th scale truck, a nitro 10th scale buggy, RC helicopter etc. Maybe someday! Matt
Portlander
08-09-2002, 02:52 PM
Has anyone put a .18 engine in their GT? I was going to buy the HotBodies .18, it bolts right in, hopefully it'll give me a little more torque and HP. I bought a 24 tooth clutch bell but my engine didn't have enough power to get it up to speed. Maybe this one will.
violator757
08-09-2002, 03:21 PM
port lander what spur are you running also if your engine is properly tuned you can get crazy speeds out of just about any engine also what engine are you running now
cheif i think AE's monster turck is gonna kick butt i also wish they woud make a 1/8 buggie i dont think a 1/0 nitro buggie would be to much fun but its worth a try if AE makes one
b_madd
08-09-2002, 06:19 PM
anybody think that ae might be takin after losi and makin a BILLY EASTON EDITION GT. just a thought.
jnegrx
08-09-2002, 07:03 PM
I don't think so they have the Factory team version that has all the hop-ups.
dissymmetry
08-09-2002, 11:07 PM
Hey all, I'm not yet selling these, but I wanted to see if anyone was interested in them. They are billet aluminum, hard anodized, and bi-directional (the lefts and right sides are mirror images of eachother.) They weigh in at 1.25 oz. ea.
http://www.aero-rc.com/images/jester4.jpg http://www.aero-rc.com/images/vector.jpg http://www.aero-rc.com/images/vortec4.jpg http://www.aero-rc.com/images/starr5.jpg
The shaft drive rear hub design is really slick, but I have no pictures of that just yet.
violator757
08-09-2002, 11:34 PM
realy slick looking rimhow much for a set of 4
trxstr1961
08-10-2002, 10:51 AM
hope u decide too, cause i want to get a set for my gt...THOSE R DOPE!!
now if only someone could make some daytons in aluminum....silver with gold spokes..
trxstr1961
08-10-2002, 02:41 PM
I have a 128 servo for steering in my gt, but it takes FOREVER to turn, what would be a better servo choice??
ilovemygt
08-10-2002, 03:19 PM
trx check you batts when they get low on power it slows the servos down
rcboy618
08-10-2002, 03:52 PM
get a airtronic 94357 or jr 8547
Pro3/nmt105
08-10-2002, 10:35 PM
Originally posted by ross
Yes, there is a new GT works, it should be with us later this year. The truck is going to be a completly new design and it will be able to out handle any Losi because they are going to replace the whole suspension works for the a new one.
I was talking to a very good driver at my club who drives a GT and he his sponsered by CML Distribution (they distribute AE suff over here) and he said that there is a new GT coming out soon. I emailed CML and they also said yes but they didnt have any info on it but they said that has soon has they get any they will contact me. I think they said it will be out around september time.
Ross.
i doubt its coming very soon because they just came out with the rtr plus i agree with atm. i hope thay dont make a new one soon though i just got an ft gt
speedydave
08-10-2002, 10:50 PM
If they do come out with a new one, I know I won't be able to afford it for a while...:(
dissymmetry
08-10-2002, 11:11 PM
We definitle are going to sell them, but we are not quite ready yet. There are still some preliminary matters to be taken care of. The cost is still under consideration, but since we are not selling through a distributor, they'll likely be in the range of $70 for a set of four, as opposed to $125 . You will be able to find them online sometime in he next month or two at www.aero-rc.com or at your local hobby store. You'd really be helping us out if you asked for them at the hobby stores though! :D The wheels will be available in stock and 1/4" offsets. We are also going to be offering truly custom wheels, the kind that you design the pattern for. They will be slightly more expensive than the patterns we already have ($100-$125 for a full set) but they would bring new meaning to the term "custom wheels".
We are looking into some very high-tech hop-ups for a range of cars using aluminum, carbon fiber, carbon composites, titanium etc. I would appreciate any input any of you might have as to something that you've been looking for that no one makes or a better designed one.
Got Speed
08-10-2002, 11:46 PM
An upper deck would be really nice!
ritchies rc10gt
08-11-2002, 09:02 AM
oops double post
ritchies rc10gt
08-11-2002, 09:04 AM
Originally posted by dissymmetry
www.aero-rc.com
is that a picture of shocks for an R/C car?those are pretty cool looking.i am definately interested in a set of your wheels.are you gonna make them to fit the 1/4" and 3/16" axles?
i dont know if anybody else would be interested in these but id like to see aluminum shock rod ends.im tired of the plastic ones breaking and wearing out all the time
for those on the boards that have Emailed me or instant messaged me my new email/aim is: IEatFords4lunch@aol.com or IJunkFords@aol.com
Sorry guys, the new GT wont be with us this year but it will be with us next year, its still in development stages. The sponsered driver who told me about it in the first place has been asked to give Associated a technical wish list for what they would like on the new truck.
Ross.
dissymmetry
08-12-2002, 12:34 PM
The pictures on our website are actually shock rod ends and shafts for King Shock Technologies, you know the off-road place that sells shocks for off-road racing at about $800 a set. As for the R/C car shock market, we are in the work of making exactly what you re asking for and much more.
As the to 1/4 and 3/16 axles if you mean the front and rear stock ones, absolutely. They are already made and almost ready for sale. We are still working o pricing and other preliminary items before we can sell them just yet though.
trxstr1961
08-12-2002, 01:45 PM
TOO BAD on there wish list they dont ask for a TRS:(
TRS=throttle return spring
hitstuff II
08-12-2002, 03:36 PM
Dissymmetry are you going to make hop ups for other cars too?
jcnmt
08-12-2002, 04:54 PM
hey guys the rumors of the associated monster truck are true!i read it in an email i got from associated!:D
Insane Rival
08-12-2002, 05:43 PM
Originally posted by trxstr1961
TOO BAD on there wish list they dont ask for a TRS:(
TRS=throttle return spring
the gt comes with a TRS
Planet-X
08-12-2002, 06:16 PM
I'd like to know what the largest fuel tank I can use in my gt??
Originally posted by Planet-X
I'd like to know what the largest fuel tank I can use in my gt??
I think GPM do a special upper deck with allows you to use a 125cc fuel tank.
Ross.
Domeno
08-12-2002, 08:14 PM
Has anyone out there added CVD's to their RC10GT rtr plus?
I was wondering what needed replacing to accept the rear cvd's?
Also, does anyone recommend any particular cdv's over others?
thanks,
Domenic
ritchies rc10gt
08-12-2002, 08:32 PM
Originally posted by dissymmetry
The pictures on our website are actually shock rod ends and shafts for King Shock Technologies, you know the off-road place that sells shocks for off-road racing at about $800 a set. As for the R/C car shock market, we are in the work of making exactly what you re asking for and much more.
As the to 1/4 and 3/16 axles if you mean the front and rear stock ones, absolutely. They are already made and almost ready for sale. We are still working o pricing and other preliminary items before we can sell them just yet though.
cool deal il definately get those rod ends when you make them.
1/4 and 3/16 axles
im talking about the rear wheels.the rtr gt has 1/4" rear axles and the Team/factory team GTs have 3/16"rear axles
ritchies rc10gt
08-12-2002, 08:36 PM
Originally posted by Domeno
Has anyone out there added CVD's to their RC10GT rtr plus?
I was wondering what needed replacing to accept the rear cvd's?
Also, does anyone recommend any particular cdv's over others?
thanks,
Domenic
i dont have the RTR plus but i do have the RTR.save yourself some aggravation and get the 3/16" MIP shiny CVDs and 4 3/8 by 3/16" bearings.if you already have the 3/16 axles then just get the CVDs.make sure you clean them real good with some automotive brake parts cleaner,use the associated locktite on the set screws instead of the MIP threadlock and crank the set screws as tite as you can.i have had my CVDs since april and have not had one problem with them yet,infact i cant even get them apart to clean and relube them really good
brianracer
08-12-2002, 11:07 PM
I have a RC10GT RTR PLUS I was also wondering about CVDs so this helps me. The CVDs will probably b one of my first upgrades. I was also wondering ifanyone knows if the Pro-Line FORD F-150 body will fit the PLUS??? Thanx for any help. If i ever take any pics of my GT in the future i will try to post them.
--BRIANRACER--
Domeno
08-13-2002, 11:56 AM
ritchies rc10gt: Thaks for the reply and info. I appreciate it.
Domenic
I have a urgent problem. i broke a drive pin in my cvd's, the one that goes into the wheel. I have the 3/16 axles, and the only hardware kit i can find is only for 1/4 axles! will it work?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAV78&P=7
Super<S>Man
08-13-2002, 08:49 PM
Edz- I dont think that kit is specifically made for 3/16 but you can just chop a bit off the pin. I looked on horizon as well and it seems thats the only kit that is made for AE cars so it might in fact work.
OldskoolGT
08-13-2002, 09:12 PM
EdZ,
Just go to the hardware store and buy some music wire and trim it to the right length. I use 0.055" wire in the back of my GT after breaking the drive pins also. The 0.055" wire doesn't fight tightly in the axle, and will fall out easily, but it does the job fine and I believe the wire is stronger than the pins since its not hollow.
dissymmetry
08-14-2002, 11:23 AM
Originally posted by hitstuff II
Dissymmetry are you going to make hop ups for other cars too?
Yes, currently we are making those wheels for the Losi XXX and The Traxxas nitro Rustler... with much much more on the way. Our intention is to bring the R/C car market into the next century using the MOST advanced technologies and materials practical.
Our focus right now is on the 1/10th scale stadium trucks since very little is available for them.
By the way, your wheels are ready.
-dissymmetry
CyberISda
08-14-2002, 12:55 PM
Anyone use this engine already for RC10GT? I'm trying to replace my stock motor and thingking to buy this one soon.
RB Concept X.12 1700-000310 Rear Exhaust with slide carb, turbo Serpent crankshaft and turbo glow plug
Any idea would be a great help to me.
jnegrx
08-14-2002, 06:07 PM
I wouldn't use a turbo plug in an offroad truck. these engines can get out of tune quickly if the conditions change. I have used turbo plugs but found that the standard plugs were easier to adjust in an offroad enviroment.
StevePond
08-22-2002, 11:30 AM
Fixing this thread...
StevePond
08-22-2002, 11:32 AM
Appears to be working now. Please let me know if you have problems again.
rc10gtisthebest
08-22-2002, 11:45 AM
It's working. But Steve when you reviewed the RC10GT Plus RTR you said the body was a Ford F-150 Style body. And it's supposed to be a GMC Serria! Geeze some people:p
mikerc10gt
08-22-2002, 12:37 PM
help me
ok, ive been out of R/C for about 5-6 years, my last car was an rc-10b2, a sweet electric ride, well, after a couple of years i decided i needed another fix..........i bought an rc-10 gt rtr plus about 3 weeks ago, i have some issues maybe you guys can help me out..........
1. i removed the restrictor from the carb and i cant figure the set-up for the carb.........
2. the brake cam (thin piece of threaded rod) keeps popping out of the bottom hole........during a speed run tried the brakes and nothing. i smashed the old lady's leg, she was bitchin, but she'll get over it
3. the stock carb set-up for the linkage to the servo isnt opening smoothly, when i pull the throttle, it bends the plastic out away from the carb instead of pulling it to open it.
any and all help will be greatly appreciated and used only for the power of good.....lmao
thanks
mike
ttweedle
08-22-2002, 12:48 PM
For replacing your drive pins, I just use a body clip. Cut it to length and stick it in... All of the GT bodies should fit on the GT Plus. The October RCcaraction mag says that the rear wheels go in 3/16" axles. If so just replace them with CVD's. Good luck with all your new trucks. It a top rate gas truck. The GT is alot more bomb proof than the Losi truck.
Travis
trxstr1961
08-22-2002, 01:35 PM
wow, about time, thanks steve:)
i need a new header for my gt, any suggestions, i have a ps on mine, and want a colored header
StevePond
08-23-2002, 06:34 AM
Sorry it closed again guys...
StevePond
08-23-2002, 06:36 AM
We're still working on a solution for this, thanks for the patience. :(
Big Wig
08-23-2002, 06:39 AM
I've been running an OS .15cv with an Odonell head forever. I find it to be a very fast engine with gobs of low end power. Where I race, the straightaway is 100 feet and I get plenty of speed. Well, just for the heck of it I bought the new Losi rear exhaust maninfold and bolted in my Mugen MT-.12..... Holy Moly!!!! I can not believe how fast my GT is now! It is an absolute missle down the straightaway! I love it! I'm still running a little rich and I'm only hitting 212 degrees but this thing revvs to the moon! It sounds like a dentists drill ;-)
Is anyone else running a rear exhaust MT-.12 in their GT? What glow plug are you running? I have an MC9 in mine right now but I'm curious what others are using.
Thanks
Jay
StevePond
08-23-2002, 07:21 AM
I prefer an MC59. The MC9 is too cold for my liking. It generally makes the throttle response a little muddy and makes tuning the low-speed needle a little more difficult. Heck if you're running good with the MC9, then just leave it in, but next time you replace the plug, try a 59 and I think you'll find you like it more.
Big Wig
08-23-2002, 08:03 AM
SteveP,
Thanks! I always have mc59's on hand so I'll have to pop one in!
violator757
08-27-2002, 05:58 PM
argggggggggggggg this thread is driving me nutz