Associated RC10GT Forum v4.0

[stefcold]

I just bought a used RC10GT, it is model #7058. It is the tub chassis design and came with a O.S. .12 CV-X engine.

I would like to know how old is this truck?

Stef...

[Tstalion79]

I would think that it is around 2 years old, but it could be really old. In fact, you can still buy the tub chassis GT's from tower and some other places, listed as the "sport gt" or something.


I may be wrong


Teddy

[Tstalion79]

Hey guys. I have one quick problem. My engine's mounting holes (dynamite .12s) do not line up perfectly with the mounting holes on the actual engine mount. I was able to get the screws in, but should i drill out new holes in my engine in order to give it a good fit? Thanks

[superman_xxxt]

I also run a MT-12 and I agree with Big Wig. The engine is fantastic. I use MC59's in the engine. On a blistering hot day (90+) the engine will run about 240 but normally it runs right around 220 with incredable power. I replaced a OS CV_R 12 and have not looked back. The OS was never as powerful as the MT-12 and only lasted a gallon before it started lossinfg power. Those Itallians really know how to make a good motor.

[hitstuff II]

I have had my os for over a gallon and i get the same power as I had after break in. Maybe you had tuned your os a little too agressivly.

[superman_xxxt]

no aggressive tuning. I use a temp gun and always kept the temp around 230. I also had a bad experience with a OS CVR-15 in a Tmaxx. Defective head, we had to send it back. Never reran it, just sold it back to the LHS towards a Hyper 7.

[brianracer]

steve p how did u like the gt rtr plus???
i have one but we wont go into it and how hot did urs run during break in?

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by stefcold
I just bought a used RC10GT, it is model #7058. It is the tub chassis design and came with a O.S. .12 CV-X engine.

I would like to know how old is this truck?

Stef...

Do you have any pics? The only true way to tell its age would be by looking at the shock towers and suspension arms. AE used the tub chassis from the truck's introduction in 1993 until around 2000 when they upgraded it to a plate chassis. However, in that 7 year period, the truck has seen a few changes in its suspension geometry.

[bay1219]

Has anyone had any problems putting the MIP 4-N-1 clutch on their engine?? I have an OS CV-R .15 and have followed the instructions perfectly, but it just won't fit correctly.

[Tstalion79]

Bay- the 4 in 1 clutch is tricky to get in. You have to hammer those pins on your flywheel down until it fits in. Even after you do that, it will feel tight and there will be resistance with the clutch bell, but that goes away after you "break in" the clutch. Usually a tank later it is perfect.

[bay1219]

Yeah, that is exactly the problem I was having. I actually used a Dremel to cut the flywheel pins down so that the clutch would fit on it properly, but then the clutch bell wouldn't turn freely. I thought I was doing something wrong. I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who has this problem.

[Wallis Racing]

YAY!
Soon, in less then half a weeks, I am going to pick up my new RB Concept X12 with a slide carb.
Can i expect much of a power increase from my CV-RX with a rotary carb? cause someone said that they are almost the same engine so there wont be much more power, but it is rear exhaust, and that alone will give it a fair bit more power. Someone else said that it’s like one of Nova's engines, but modified so it is like 1.25+hp and the CV-RX is only like 1hp.

I am thinking that it will be noticeable more powerful, and i sure hope it is. I hope al those rumors about how orange is faster are true:D LOL

Anyways, In about 6months to a year I’m gunna go all out and get a JP black modified engine that will just make the GT stupid fast:D i will have to use bald tires to keep the front wheels down, LOL.

Oh yeah,
Here are some pics of my GT form last weekend after I successfully wrecked my CV-RX which had a new piston and sleeve in it that was only 3 weeks old:(:
http://www.rccars.com/rcmovies/images/julsmt/BROCK/DSC00058.JPG
http://www.rccars.com/rcmovies/images/julsmt/BROCK/DSC00043.JPG



Anyways,
Can’t wait to go pick up my X12,

[hitstuff II]

Why is everyone having problems with their o.s. engines? Weird

[superman_xxxt]

Judging by the cleanliness of the air filter above(or lack there of) I would say the engine either could not breath or was breathing dust. A dirty air filter will make the best engine run like CRAP.

[trxstr1961]

got my gt RTR cleaned up, and is ready for parking lot fun! :)

my setup:
os12cvx
futaba sport radio,receiver
duratrax sx100 steering servo
futaba 3003 throttle
ae 3 peice rims
proline striker2 tires
rpm ball ends
cvec coupler
ofna linkage
losi TRS
stock 4cell receiver pack
stock ae pipe
proline sierra body or a chevy body
fuel: cool power 15%
:D
Hows that for my first nitro truck:confused:

still have the AE .15 but not sure what to use it in?? i cant get it to start, so??

[speedydave]

What engine and servos are you guys running? I'm thinking about upgrading my servos, and I want to get a more powerful engine for later on, when we go back to the arena track, which has way more traction, so you can put down the power. I have a .12 CV with O'Donnell head right now, and I run 20% O'Donnell fuel...thinking about getting a .12 CVR(S). Also, right now I'm running Hitec 615MG and 425BB servos...was thinking about going to dual 5925MG's...how's that sound? I know that's a bit overkill for throttle, but then what would be a good throttle servo? 5625MG? Just trying to give my GT some new life after getting my 1/8 scaler...Thanks. :)

[trxstr1961]

Well say goodbye to 1 pair of striker2's i just got done destroying a set on the rear of my gt..lolol ill get pics so u can see the damage :D

[violator757]

lol what you do burn the tread off them?

[jnegrx]

I use an Picco P12, for servos i use Hitec 5945MG and for gas i use a Futaba 9401(old servo but works ok). I have also a 5925MG and its very fast but the 5945 has more torque and it's almost as fast. My other engines are OS CV and OS CVR. It all depends on the traction and the track that i'm racing. The CVR is a great engine and easy to adjust not like the picco.

What pipe are you guys using?

I want an O'Donnell but the Picco offroad pipe looks great. I am using the stock AE or a Picco pro pipe.

[speedydave]

I'm using a Paris Turbo Ring pipe right now...Combined with my CV with O'Donnell head, my truck is almost overpowered for my track, but for the other track I race at during the winter(same track technically, but they move to a covered arena and build a new track), I could use a little more power, since I have plenty of traction. I'm leaning more in the direction of the 5925MG for steering along with (possibly) a 5625MG, unless they make a 5525MG(doubtful).

[jnegrx]

The 5925MG did a great job steering my truck but i needed the speed in my NTC3 and my lhs had the 5945MG on hand so in went that one and to tell the thruth i dont see a difference in speed. So go for it I don't think you will be dissapointed.

[Big Wig]

As long as I've had a GT, I've run a 5925 for steering... awesome servo!

All this season I've been running a 5625 for throttle/ brake and it works fantastic. With the power of that servo (97oz/in I believe) and the Cresenzi brake, I can stop on a dime. I dive into the corners hot and squirt right out... I love it!

[trxstr1961]

i was doing left turn ovals at a empty gas station..lolol email me for pics voilator

[WheelNut]

here are some pics of my dad's RC10GT. It started out as a RTR, now it has bearings, CVD's (One of which broke yesterday :(), Motor savers air filter, RRP steel spur, an OS CV-R, also it has pro-line tires in the rear, which really suck, lol, no traction at all. Also it has the new Pro-line sierra body that I painted for him.

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Aug/20028303145202279409244.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Aug/20028304788626938910654.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Aug/20028301746535630898129.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Aug/20028308529589715597773.jpg

The OS CV-R has breathed new life into this truck, before it woudl never run and just plain sucked, now its a blast to drive. But the gear mesh keeps coming out, so we're going to try some red locktite. The next thing to get will be some losi silver step pins :)

[atm92484_3]

The truck looks pretty good. Make sure the screws and threads in the engine mount are clean or else even red threadlock won't help them hold.

[trxstr1961]

look like you need a TRS on there!

I C AE finally got the hint and is starting adding TRS's to there nw nitro gt's.:cool:

[popee]

What exactly is the 4 in 1 clutch on the RC10GT? Im thinking about replacing mine. Is it a tunable clutch? My LHS said that it doesnt replace the fly wheel or anything. You see the thing is im having trouble getting mine to idle low enough without engaging the clutch. Ive had that problem with both engines which i have had in the car since i bought it. I noticed on the stock clutch there is no springs is tyhat normal too?

[atm92484_3]

Yes it is normal for the stocker not to have a spring. The MIP one is a 2 shoe clutch with a spring. You can tune it by either putting weights on one of the shoes or moving the hole the shoes ride on to alter clutch engaugement (you'll understand it once you get the clutch). IMO it is one of the few hop-ups the GT needs.

[WheelNut]

Whats a TRS?

[popee]

Well Its just I cant the engine to idle any lower and it seems to idle very low anyways. Im Running an OS CV-X. The guy at the modelshop he ahs great knowlege about cars and dialed it in to get it idling low, but the cluch is still engaging.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by WheelNut
Whats a TRS?

Throttle Return Spring

It pulls the carb closed if the linkage pops off and it might pull it back if the battery dies (but you're wasting a lot of power in the meantime if you have a spring that heavy).

[southbornracer]

was wondering if anybody made a 2 speed tranny for a gt?thanks..............billy

[violator757]

no one makes a 2 speed for the gt:eek: :(

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
Hey guys. I have one quick problem. My engine's mounting holes (dynamite .12s) do not line up perfectly with the mounting holes on the actual engine mount. I was able to get the screws in, but should i drill out new holes in my engine in order to give it a good fit? Thanks

hopefully im not too late to help here.ive run the dynamite engines on my GT and my rush and the only problem i have had with the mounting screws is you have to take the head off to get them in right and good and tight

[OrcSlayer]

Hey, I've been wanting some sort of off road car or truck and I've looked at 1/8 buggies but they are too expensive for me. I've considered the Stampede and Tamiya's Pajero, but I'm pretty sure I want a ST or Stampede. I was considering the RTR GT. But I wasn't sure how good the engine is... i.e. I've seen a few reviews saying it's hard to start and stuff. I'm not entirely new to nitro but I'm definitely not an expert. Also the included radio looks sorta cheezy but I don't care as long as it works well. I really would prefer the kit, but I can't afford to buy a seperate engine and radio. The team built truck is $190. Could you recommend an engine and radio that will put my total cost at $300 or so? How would I go about cutting the crank on an engine to fit the GT? The Sport with engine is $255
but it has bushings and dogbones, compared to bearings and universals on the Team Built. So what do you think would be my best bet, RTR, Team Built, or Sport w/engine?
Another thing, how do you think the Duratrax Overdrive ST compares the the GT? I will only be bashing so I thought the 4wd and 2 speed might be a good thing to have. I'm willing to bet the GT is more durable though. Personally, I haven't had good experience with DTRX but the problems I saw/had could be chalked up to bad luck and a negligent owner (not me).

Edit: Duh. I can't buy an engine and radio for the price difference between a team built and RTR. That rules that out. I read in a review that the RTR is of lower quality than the other trucks. Like the parts and weaker and stuff 'cuz it's built in China. Is this true? Because then I don't want the RTR at all. Thanks. :)

[njohnson10]

Hi everyone,
My first post, don't know if it will end up in the right spot!

I just finished assembling my rc10gt team kit. This is my first Land RC vehicle(Flown and built planes for a while).

My question is about the flywheel. Since I got the pull-start os .12 cv-x(s) engine, the kit I ordered was specified to be for the pull-start rc10gt kit. My understanding is that this kit comes with a pull start motor mount. After assembling the kit(everything seemed normal, just as the instructions mentioned), I noticed that my flywheel actually sticks through the starter hole in the bottom of the chassis by about 1mm - enough so that if i put the chassis on something flat the flywheel hits first. I know this can't be right.

I know that the os .12 cv series is very popular for use with the GT so I must have missed something. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I can do to fix this? Did I miss a step in mounting the engine? The instructions indicate that the mount is directly attached to the chassis and then the engine directly to the mount. No shims spacers, etc.

Help is much appreciated. I don't have a great local source for info. Thanks again!

NJ10

[popee]

njohnson thats fine it does produce slightly, incase you ever use a bumpstart the rubber wheel can touch the fly wheel. However if you are concerned about it still, you should of got some shims in the box your motor came with.

[njohnson10]

Thanks Popee!
I didn't see any shims in the box are they just a metal piece the size of the contact patch between the engine and mount?

Thanks for the advice! I will probably just ignore the wheel sticking out unless it becomes a problem.

Thanks again!
NJ10

[violator757]

nj i think your flywheel sticking out the bottom of the chassis is gonna cause a problem in the long run if you bottom out it can catch anything on the ground such as a rock and shut your engine off wich is a ver bad thing for a engine to come to an abrupt stop try puting a washer or a lock nut under the engine mounting place in between the motor mount and the engine mounting tabs this should rasie the engine ans flywheel enought so it will not bottom out and you might have th wrong flywheel on your truck my flywheel is very small is there any chance you have a non pullstarted fly wheel lmk asap and i will try ot help you out a little more

[njohnson10]

I believe I found the answer to my problem... My engine manual said that there should be "engine mount spacers" included, but I did not get them(air filter, glow plug, engine, manual and stickers - thats all I got). I will contact OS service tomorrow and see if they will send me the "spacers". I think this is the fix for my problem. Hopefully OS's service will help me out!

Thanks for the help!
NJ10

[popee]

YEs use them 2 metal spacers that came in your box to make the engine sit a bit higher :)

[CyberISda]

Is there someone using this MT12 engine for their GT? I just bought one but i'm having trouble tuning in. The manual didn't say anything about the original setup on the carburetor. The thing here is i broke in the engine for 15 tanks and seriously its too slow.. I sure i'm experienced enough coz i'm racing with 1/8 buggy beside i did tune the stock engine that comes with the rtr and its easy and there's a lot of torque but this one geezzz i wanted to throw it. If someoen own it please help. If not i guess i'm going to sell this one and buy an RB X12

[superman_xxxt]

I run a mt12 in my gt and love it. Lots of low end and easy to tune. I don't know the starting needle settings, but if you follow the convetion of tune the high end needle for good performance, then tune the low end needle for starting take off you should have no problems. If the engine will not run consistantly, I would look for an air leak. I started out with the GT and just got into1/8 scale and found out that reading the motor and what it is doing is a little different with 1/10 scale and 1/8 scale. Just keep your cool and you will figure it out. You may want to read this just to refresh your memory
http://www.novarossi.com/avvertenze/ing/carburetion.html

[CyberISda]

Thanks a lot..lemme check this out..and see what happen :D

[dmrcflyr2]

OrcSlayer

I bought the RC10GT Plus RTR and now I also have the RC10GT Factory Team kit. You are correct the radio with the RTR sucks. Both my throttle and Steering trim knobs have broken off inside the radio. I did not abuse, drop or bump the radio in any way. I fixed it by threading a phillips head screw into the potentiometer inside the radio.

As for the AE .15 engine. Yes it was difficult to start initially, but was it ever worth it!!! That engine kicks total Butt!! I have already decided that when I need another engine, that is the one I am buying.

Whit the slipper just set to slip and the diff screw backed out 1/8th turn as recommended in the instructions I can pull and sustain wheelies on pavement. Man is it a blast!

Go for the GT. You will not be sorry.

[OrcSlayer]

Thanks for the help. :) I'm heading out ot the not-so-local hobby shop today and I'll see what they have. Otherwise, I'll probably get one from Tower.

[FlyinRazorback]

dmrcflyr2,
Have you taken the carb restrictor out yet? Try it, and you will be really impressed. Make sure you richen the HSNV a bit though.

[CyberISda]

Hey guys, i just read on the rcnitro, if the engine manual doesn't say anything on how many turns the high and low speed, the universal starting point is usually about 1 turn open (counterclockwise) on the low-speed needle and somewhere in the 2- to 3-turn range on the high-speed needle. This varies among engines, but it gets you started running, and then you can make the necessary corrections. After the initial startup, follow the proper break-in procedure, then worry about performance tuning.

Superman, i tried to look today and found out that my high-speed is to rich. Thanks for your help

[dmrcflyr2]

FlyinRazorback

Yes I have taken the restrictor out. What can I say, I love the engine!

[beachbum]

i hava a rtr,has ayone ever see a clutch bearing explode and just rip the gear off the cluch bell housing.what causes this??? any help will be appreciated!!!

[violator757]

i have seen beel beaqrings shatter explode break just about everything you can do to them most of th time its cause by heat, un even load, or just plain neglect as far as the teeth getting ripped off opnly time i have seen this is on a tmaxx wit a metal spur and clutch but other than that the spur should break or strip teeth b4 it will mess up the chutch bell

[beachbum]

thanks for the info violater,i don`t think it was from neglect cause i have just recently cleaned them.but i really don`t understand how it would get so hot to do that,any input?

[violator757]

as far as getting hot it can be a combonation form the engine heat and also the bearing not being lubed properly or if you cleand them you might have pushed all the lube out of them then its just metal balls and metal rubbing and thats what heat right so thats probably what caused it

[rcboy618]

do you guys strip alot of spur gears when using the the plastic spur gear?

there is a reason why they strip. the old tub version didnt have any chassis stiffener so the whole rear end would flex alot. the new gt is suppose to be alot better because they have a chassis stiffener. but its only on ONE side of the truck. if you take the truck and hold the front end then grab the back end and try to flex it it would still flex enough to strip a spur gear. its not actually flex, but twisting. its twisting because the other side of the chassis does not have a stiffener. a couple of racing friends and i are testing out some home made stiffeners for the other side of the chassis. so far its been holding up, havent stripped a spur gear since i installed the stiffener.

for back yard basher, using the robinson steel spur gear is the easiest solution, but racers prefer the plastic spurgear becuase its lighter which equals a faster acceleration.

[Bunz]

Does anybody know if there are taller front body mounts for the GT? I've got a RTR chassis & getting Proline's Crowd Pleaser body to fit w/o taller body mounts is impossible. I do like the way the hood is cut to account for the shock towers though. Thanks. :D

[superman_xxxt]

you can use the body mount set for the tc3 car, it comes with several height's one of which can be cut to size.

[beachbum]

so is there a special lube for those clutch bell bearings and if so how often do you clean and or lube?

[rc10gtisthebest]

i clean/lube y clutch bell bearings when ever i need to clean the truck (after play time or race). I use Trinity Royal Purple Lube. aMake sure not to get it on the Clutch Shoes or inside of the clutch bell.

I lube every bearing about every other tear down. I know i should do it for every tear down but oh well :rolleyes:


Todd

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by rcboy618
do you guys strip alot of spur gears when using the the plastic spur gear?

there is a reason why they strip. the old tub version didnt have any chassis stiffener so the whole rear end would flex alot. the new gt is suppose to be alot better because they have a chassis stiffener. but its only on ONE side of the truck. if you take the truck and hold the front end then grab the back end and try to flex it it would still flex enough to strip a spur gear. its not actually flex, but twisting. its twisting because the other side of the chassis does not have a stiffener. a couple of racing friends and i are testing out some home made stiffeners for the other side of the chassis. so far its been holding up, havent stripped a spur gear since i installed the stiffener.

for back yard basher, using the robinson steel spur gear is the easiest solution, but racers prefer the plastic spurgear becuase its lighter which equals a faster acceleration.


i have stripped a lot of spur gears but since ive learned how to set the mesh and been using the robinson racing machined plastic spurgears ive only stripped a few gears since and its been 3 months since the last one stripped.the main reason they strip is incorrect mesh or the motor mount screws vibrate loose and let the engine slide forward

[njohnson10]

Hi again everybody,

I have the MIP 4 in 1 clutch that I am going to install, but I have a possibly stupid question(I think I know the answer, but...).

Do you seperate the clutch shoes(mine are 1 piece joined only by approx. 1mm of material)?

My mechanical instinct is that the answer has to be yes, but I am not a mechanic and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.

Thanks again.

NJ10

[superman_xxxt]

DO NOT SEPRATE THE SHOES. They are made to be that way

[popee]

I just ordered an MIP 4 in 1 Clutch the standard one sucks, it keeps engaging and my engine is idling low. Any ideas gents?

[beachbum]

thanks for the info on the lube rc10isthebest.i will have to get some of that and clean bearings more often.

[superman_xxxt]

The 4-in-1 clutch should solve your problem. I had the same problem with my stock clutch. Remember it takes about a tank to break in the 4-in-1, but I did not really notice any difference after break in.

[popee]

Superman with your stock clutch did it keep engaging like mine? Even thought the engine was revving very low at idle

[superman_xxxt]

yes, and it would cause the engine to die.

[popee]

Smart im waiting on the clutch and a new FT Chassis today, the truck is really coming together with the new engine and stuff :)

[njohnson10]

Thanks Superman_xxxt,
I havent' done anything to the MIP yet. I am glad I asked instead of using my flawed "mechanical instinct". Now I won't ruin the MIP before installation!

Thanks again!!!
NJ10

[superman_xxxt]

I started thinking about the separating the 4-in-1 clutch shoes question. At first I thought that the clutch shoes should come ready to install. Since they come connected, why seperate them. Then I went to the MIP website and they show the clutch shoes separated. SOOO:confused:
Lets ask the question again. Should the shoes be separated? I will try calling MIP later when they open.

[superman_xxxt]

I called MIP about the clutch question. I got an answering machine and left a message not reaslly thinkning anyone was going to call back. Well MIP Rules:D , I just got the call back and the answer to the question. Yes separate the shoes, but if you didn't, it does not matter because they will separate themselves once installed.

[njohnson10]

Cool,
Thanks superman_xxxt for your looking into this. I guess my flawed "mechanical instinct" wasn't that flawed after all.

Thanks again!
NJ10

[popee]

Anyone fancy giving me a rundown about what makes this clutch diffent/special than the stock GT one. Like the diffences etc, i know it looks different

[superman_xxxt]

The 4-in-1 clutch has several advantages "They are specially designed with our custom extension spring to be run in various settings for precision tunning. They are also manufactured of MIP high grade composite material which allows for the smoothest and most consistant transfer of power. MIP Clutch Systems are stock replacements."off MIP website. They are tunable from the standpoint of they have small steel pins that are placed in different orintation to make the clutch engage and disengage differently. The clutch will not engage at low rpm causing the engine to bog down and possible cut off.
Hope that helps

[rcboy618]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt



i have stripped a lot of spur gears but since ive learned how to set the mesh and been using the robinson racing machined plastic spurgears ive only stripped a few gears since and its been 3 months since the last one stripped.the main reason they strip is incorrect mesh or the motor mount screws vibrate loose and let the engine slide forward

im going to have to disagree with you on that one. all the scres are so tight that i was not even able to unscrew it, also other people werent able to too. we ended up stripping it. i also traced teh area around the motor mount to see if it moved but it didnt. im definatly sure that if you take the rear end and flex/twist it it will move enough to strip it. i havent stripped a spur since i put in a stiffener and im using a stock spur not a rr.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt



i have stripped a lot of spur gears but since ive learned how to set the mesh and been using the robinson racing machined plastic spurgears ive only stripped a few gears since and its been 3 months since the last one stripped.

I totally agree with you about the RRP machined spurs. I just replaced my first one (after 2 years), but not because it stripped: it just wore out. It looked more like a helical cut gear rather than a spur gear. :)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by rcboy618
do you guys strip alot of spur gears when using the the plastic spur gear?

Actually there are several reasons, chassis flex being one of them, but the other is drivers don't stay off the throttle while they are in the air. If you go airborne and let off the throttle, the clutch is allowed to disengage so when you hit the ground the spur and pinion spin freely. If you don't, the clutch is still engaged and what are the chances of the wheels and ground speed being the same?

The other reason is indeed flex on the old tub type chassis (I have never seen this on the anodized version!), but not because the engine moves. Just the little bit of flex to the right will tighten up the gear lash enough to strip the gear sometimes. The chassis stiffener in the pic below (the blue bar on the right, sorry, I sold it) is a solid steel bar that goes from the top left of the tranny mount to the front right engine mount bolt and does indeed kill this flex.

Chassis flex has always been what I consider the achilles heel of the Associated truck. All that flexing really affects how it handles, even on the electrics. I also built anti-flex bars for the electrics out of graphite and the electric handling improved immensely.

For the GT, I just bought the anodized upgrades. :)

[Pro3/nmt105]

oh no i tweaked the kick up on my chassi its the new non-tub blue one its only anbout 2mm i think it happened because one of the front braces lost a screw and the other screw in the brace was loose (so the brace wasnt doing its job) i dont know how long it was like this while i drove it. when i put the screws back in the brace the chassi didnt appear to be bent. but even now it dosnt appear to be bent but if u put it to a flat surface it shows its slightly tweaked can i bend this back with out any problems or do i need a new one? if so should i get a new ae chassi or a diffrent one. is the hardcore titan chassi worth it its really expensive do any stores sell it cheaper than hard core does?

thanx

[Super<S>Man]

I had the same problem with my braces, ll of the screws stripped out when i hit the curb. I wound up buying a new chassis and the alum. braces from trinity. YOurs doesnt sounds so bad mine was bent to 20* or so right in the middle of where the braces are. If you need to pn for the braces lmk.

[Pro3/nmt105]

where did u get the trinity braces and how are they diffrent from the stock ones

[trxstr1961]

went and ran my gt with diry hawg rear ties and ribs up front. WOW! can you say FAST! pulling wheelies on grass with no problem. i LOVE this gt.

now for the prob i have with it. around half tank it dies, and wont start. i blow fuel into the carb, but it just bubbles and still wont start till it cools down. now why is this happening??

[violator757]

txr you are probably running to lean try to richen it just a tad and see if that helps

[trxstr1961]

richen which . hig or low??

[violator757]

more than likley you high end since you said your getting crazy speeds im taking you to lean the leaner you aare the more speed you get and the higher temp you get hence the fuel bubbling away b4 it can be combusted in the chamber take it a little bit at a time and richen it and see what that does it should help alot im also thinking that you bottom end is fine if its not boggin down hows your idle?

[trxstr1961]

idle is a little high, truck does move when idleing, but if i slow down the idle any more, i die when i hit the brakes.

also i just reset my high end to 2 turns out.

man i wish i had a mag jr radio, that would make this sooo much easier

[violator757]

what radio are you using

[trxstr1961]

radio im running right now is a mag sport. nice but not the best for nitro i am finding out :( !

[violator757]

thats not a bad raido i ran my duratrax axis 1/8 buggi with my traxxas 2 channel radio and it workd fine mabey its just about personal prefrene im using a jr xr3 now and i love it

[lday]

I just bought i team rc10gt now i need a engine for it what do you all recommend i brand new to nitro so any other tip i might need to would also be a plus

thanks

Lday

[Domeno]

Does anyone here use their RC10GT for dirt oval racing?

If so, what is the common clutch bell and spur gear ratio used?

I have RC10GT RTR+ running the ae15 engine and wanted to give some oval racing a try.

Any help would be appreciated.

Domenic

[FlyinRazorback]

Although I don't do any oval racing as of yet, if you go up on the number of teeth on the clutchbell and down on the number of teeth on the spur gear you will get more top end speed.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Domeno
Does anyone here use their RC10GT for dirt oval racing?

If so, what is the common clutch bell and spur gear ratio used?

I have RC10GT RTR+ running the ae15 engine and wanted to give some oval racing a try.

Any help would be appreciated.

Domenic


i dont run oval and i run an os 15cv hyper.

if you want some insane top speed try 15 tooth clutchbell and a 62 tooth spur.youll have to do some grinding on the tranny moount spacer for them to fit.and DO NOT hit the wall coming off the straightaway at full speed.cuz your truck may go home in a sandwich bag.i know mine almost has a few times with these gears.

[ross]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt



i dont run oval and i run an os 15cv hyper.

if you want some insane top speed try 15 tooth clutchbell and a 62 tooth spur.youll have to do some grinding on the tranny moount spacer for them to fit.and DO NOT hit the wall coming off the straightaway at full speed.cuz your truck may go home in a sandwich bag.i know mine almost has a few times with these gears.


Thats strange, Ive used that setup before and never had to do any grinding.

[trxstr1961]

does anyone here know the stock setup for a os.12cvx?? the fuel keeps bubbling in the carb, and im not sure what to do:confused:

[popee]

LSN Is 7 turns out and the HSN is 2 1/2 out. Thats for the CV-X .15 your settings mite be the same or slightly leaner.

Hope this helps!

[trxstr1961]

7 turns out?? no way! youd fry your mill in no time doing that:eek:

[popee]

Thats what it says in the book for the Low Speed Mix needle.

[atm92484_3]

I don't know if its 7 turns out on the low-end, but the needle should be about flush, if not in a little, with the nut that holds the arm on the carb on.

[rocknbil]

The "just less than flush" on the LSN is spec:

http://www.osengines.com/faq/product-faq.html#q4

[kdh77]

If you hear fuel bubbling in the carb, it generally means that you are running too hot. Try richening up the hs needle until a DROP of water (or spit if at the track) on the glow plug in the center of the head takes 3-5 seconds to boil off.

[lowbugit]

Hey guys, I just got my FTGT finished a couple days ago and I love the truck. This truck has the new reverse fill gas tank and the truck runs out of gas while their is still fuel in the tank. Anyone seen this every other nitro ive had runs out with the tank bone dry.

[Super<S>Man]

pro3- they are aluminum instead of plastic. They are also anodized blue :D :D
BTW the titan chassis is really excessive and not necessary.

[trxstr1961]

roknbil, thank u, thats just the info i need. now i bet well see whats hot and whats not lolol:D

[invsible]

hey i dont know if this has been asked befor but im not looking at all 215 pages so here it is will the ntc3 3-shoe cluth system fit on the gt??? any info whould be great thanks.......

[atm92484_3]

It won't fit; I already tried. The NTC3 clutch shoes/pins are too far apart for the GT clutchbell to fit.

[invsible]

ok thanks for letting me know. are there any 3-shoe sysems that will work?????????

[kdh77]

Try the MIP clutch. It works great.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by kdh77
Try the MIP clutch. It works great.

OK been waiting for this one to come up.

My wife's GT has the MIP extra light flywheel and clutch. My GT is stock. Both non-pullstarts. The "knurling" or whatever you call it, the lines on the edge of the flywheel - on hers are not worn off but a lot smootehr than the stock flywheel.

We have a HELL of a time getting it to spin enough to draw the fuel to the carb and getting it to spin over the first time. Mine spins over very easily. We have two Ofna boxes, the large one with the big single motor and the small one with two stock motors and the results are the same.

It's so bad we're thinking of putting the stock flywheel back on.

Does anyone have this prob, what do ya do hmm?

[violator757]

i say ditch the flywheel and stick with the stock one you can still use the mip 4 in 1 lutch you just need to cut or drive the pins out or down other than that try looking for a diffrent flywheel with a better edge on it or you can try to make your own texture on the edge of the flywheel im not sure if it would work but its worth a shot anyways lol just take a dremel to it and see what happens and let us no

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by rocknbil
We have a HELL of a time getting it to spin enough to draw the fuel to the carb and getting it to spin over the first time. Mine spins over very easily. We have two Ofna boxes, the large one with the big single motor and the small one with two stock motors and the results are the same.


If the engines are new (or anywhere close to it), try loosening the glow plug a little, then tightening it once the engine starts. I've had to do with with my 12 CV-R and my 12 TR, both being start with the dual 540 Ofna box.

[invsible]

hey i have a mip clutch but i like the snapieness of the multi shoe systems with one spring per shoe but i guess ill have to make my own set up.....

[wannabee]

ATM- Are you running the OS-TR in your GT? If yes how do you like it? How does it compare with an MT-12 and what exhaust system are you using? I'm wanting to get a new engine but there are more engines out there than there is information on them.

Thanks

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
If the engines are new (or anywhere close to it), try loosening the glow plug a little, then tightening it once the engine starts. I've had to do with with my 12 CV-R and my 12 TR, both being start with the dual 540 Ofna box.

Yeah that's the problem, the engines aren't new but have mad compression, OS-CV's. I loosen the plug to get the fuel up to the carb but they start so easy I don't have to loosen them to get them to fire up. It's just that doing that affects the glow washer seal (so I've been told) and overall the difficulty in getting them going puts unnecessary wear and tear on the starter dougnut, motors, and battery drain.

I've thought about altering the flywheel to get a better edge but then there are issues of balance . . . just thought there was something obvious I was doing wrong!

[invsible]

do any of you know anything about the top .12 engines. cause im breaking one in and it seems a little hot for break-in doin the spit test! oh and its the tt.12s2 if it matters.............

[not2bright]

i have had problems in the past with the spur gears striping and everyone said it was the mesh at the lhs and i found out it was the tranny case stripped out so i ordered a new one and it hasnt striped one out since
on another note has anyone thought of using a water cooled engine in the gt i know i have i have a dynamite .15 that i might put in i dont know yet im still working on the radiator:D :D
i was running my gt at my beach house labor day weekend and my reciver crystal fell out so it took off and went right into the surf so i brought it back cleaned it all up and took the engine apart and now it doesnt run good the clutch is all messed up so i guess this is a good excuse to buy a mip 4-1 clutch:D :D

[jnegrx]

dude
I have three words for you, throtle return spring, if you don't have it yet go get one.

The MIP clutch is one of the first mods i did and it is great.

As far as a water clooled engine, you also need to provide a pump to run the "water" through the head. This i think will be the hardest thing to do. I saw a water cooled truck in a mag some time ago but it was a big monster truck. The radiator in that truck was the water tank. It was huge and made of aluminum. I don't remember if it used dry ice or water.

[trxstr1961]

This is the best deal ive gotton
im getting a gt tub, in trade for my kyosho optima chain drive buggy:)

SSWWEEEEEETT!!

[trxstr1961]

Just tore down my gt, MAN!! is it filthy.. time for some spik and span touch. gonna strip the annodizbut not sure how, or where to go. any ideas??

secondly, im needing some Purple rear arm mounts 3 degree. Im thinking of going aluminum, would that be good for a basher truck??

Also, since my truck is basically stock, what hop ups/necessities would u recomend??

heres a link to what im looking at:

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=4963&car_id=20:

[atm92484_3]

You can use oven cleaner to remove annodizing, but you need to make sure you don't leave it on too long and you do it in a well veltilated area. If you do a search, you can probably find an indepth description on how to do it. As for the arms, just stick with the plastic ones. Aluminum arms will only bend and add weight. If you still want aluminum arms, www.hobbyetc.com has a few.

[invsible]

have any of you run 2.2 buggy tires on your trucks for the front and rear???????? i think this might be a good thing to try. the buggy tires are a lower profile it should = less tire roll???? but just thinking wright now let me know what you all think.........

[bad6as]

i have a factory team rc10gt for sale with novarossi.12cx motor for sale also comes with extra sand tries and has a 64t gear
has a jr reciver (75mhg)and 2 jr z270 servos you will need a starter box and a transmitter that will work with the reciver and servos. this truck is all most brand new has a couple of scratches on the bottom of the chassie
e-mail me at bad6as@aol.com do not reply on this thred about it

[popee]

does anyone know the weight approx. of a RC10GT full loaded to race, i.e fuel, rx pack radio engine. Thanks

[rc10gtisthebest]

about 4 lbs i'm guessin...

[J_M_R]

My friend has a xxx-nt and I have a rc10gt, well yesterday i picked up his truck in one hand and mine in the other hand. His is diffently lighter, and i was wondering why. They were both fully loaded(gas in the tank and batteries in the recevier).

I have the rtr chassis and a .15 engine, with aluminum shock towers and i don't have any graphite parts on my truck.

he has a .12 in his xxx-nt, graphite a arms and a recevier pack.

Could me be running aluminum shock towers make that much of a difference in weight?

Is the factory team chassis lighter than the rtr?

[rc10gtisthebest]

J_M_R,

I posted in your thread....

[FlyinRazorback]

J_M_R

The FT chassis is much lighter. I started with the RTR, bought the chassis upgrade, and that made all the difference in the world. I have since gone with graphite where I can and FT parts, all are lighter. If you are racing, ditch the aluminum towers. If you are bashing around, I wouldn't worry about it. My brother has the XXXNT as well, and I would say mine is about the same if not lighter than his. I think the RTR chassis is 1mm thicker than the FT chassis.

[GiantScale]

Iv been trying to make a educated decision & need some help. I like the losi, but my experiance with a older XXT has me worried. Horizon does not supply parts for older trucks:mad:

When will they discontinue parts for the XXXNT ???

The rc10gt is proven & no problem with parts, but its a old design..

Ill be damed if I have to put my XXXNT away like my XXT because I cant get parts! Whats the deal with horizon?

Anyway, XXXNT or rc10gt ??

Thanks

Mike

[jnegrx]

Giantscale
That's why i don't buy any Losi products. They forget the older models too quickly. One of AE's best thing is that they upgrade their design before they make a complete new kit. The GT is an old but proven design that is still winning races in every level of competition. Go for the GT if you tune it right it will handle great, last longer and be as fast as a Losi.

[rocknbil]

about 4 lbs i'm guessin...

Sounds about right . . .

The whole weight issue is overrated. I'm one of those people who THOUGHT is was an issue back when I started racing and drilled holes in an RC 10T electric pan chassis (what a waste of a good anodized chassis,) trimmed off unnecessary plastic, and did everything I could to lighten it up. I think I went from 4.25 lbs to about 3.85. It made no noticable difference in the speed or handling.

Then I came to the realization that the extra weight is a positive thing. Sure, given X amount of power, the weight Y can only be moved at speed Z, but as you all know there are many more things that make a truck and driver fast on the track, namely going into and coming out of corners. The extra weight of the AE line seem to make them more sure-footed going into and coming out of corners and thus overall faster.


Originally posted by GiantScale
Anyway, XXXNT or rc10gt ??

What a question t oask in the RC 10 GT forum lol . . . You know what we'll answer!

The GT is not really an "older" design, it has had many modifications throughout it's history. If something works, don't fix it. IT's almost like AE was making mods to their designs just so people wouldn't think they weren't improving the product. I don't think it ever needed improving.

Take, for example, the T2 and T3. I've had them both and was never so glad to get rid of them so I could go back to the original 10T's. They were skittish, hard to tune, and generally never had the obnoxious handling MOXIE of the original 10T.

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

As for the parts, even though there have been subtle changes throughout AE history, many of the ORIGINAL GT parts fit on the newest GT's today. That's one of the things that makes it easy for AE to keep parts on the shelf - the distributors don't have to take losses by tossing or returning all the old parts, most of them will still fit the new trucks.

[popee]

Simply wanted to know as my friend asked me how much my GT weighed as has a Hobao Dominator MT, I guess h wanted to know how many times heavier his is that mine.

[GiantScale]

Thanks Rockinbil !

I figuired Id get the thumbs up for the gt, but you explaination was what I needed to make the decision.. I think:rolleyes:

gnerrx said..", last longer and be as fast as a Losi."

So the losi can be faster?? I know... its all in the hands of the tuner & driver..

:D

Thanks

Mike

[violator757]

its not that a losi or a AE is faster its the engine and gearing that makes the diffrence i realy like the gt and i have never had a complaint about them or any of there products i also like losi cars but i would have to agree that i like the gt better if you plan on racing the if you buy the rtr models you will need a .12 engine since roar santioned races only alow a 12 but either way its like you siad in the tuning and driving but i can tell you i doubt you will be dissapointed with either of the cars but i say go for the one you feel best with go to your lhs and see what others are driveing if you get lucky someone might let you test drive there car and then you can make a descion on what you like better



AE OWNZ JOO!!!

[GiantScale]

Im having a hard time finding offroad nitro big race results.

Can anyone post some links to some of the latest championships etc..

Thanks

Mike

[pookrat]

I a still rather new to Nitro. Had my RC10GT + RTR for about a month. I just got it tuned out and it is running great. I have just been running it in my apartment parking lot with street tires. I can't wait to get it into some dirt... Anyways, the question is, after I got it running what I think is nice, the clutch bell looks like it is "oxidizing" "tarnishing"?? Like there was excessive heat and the inner part of the bell, where the shoes would be, is discolored like it had gotten hot. I can snap a pic if necessary. I don't have fellow R/C'rs around to ask. Is this normal or is the clutch not adjusted right. Or maybe something else is causing the wear. Truck is bone stock only changes made were the tuning changes. AN on board MIP Temp Gauge was used since the beginning. Never been over 260, averages 245. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

[violator757]

hey pooo that waer you see is from the heat the clucht is building up you can melt your shoes if you let it sit to long idle it down a little

[evader32]

Hey you guys I've just scored a older rc10gt rolling/tub chassis and I was wondering what engine to put in it. I have a limited amount of $ (like not over $100) but I want a fast reliable engine any ideas thanks in advance

[evader32]

did I mention I got it for free!!!!!!

[atm92484_3]

Take a look at the 12 SPD by Dynamite. It'll run about $80, but its ABC, pullstart, and it comes with a machined heatsink: great deal IMO.

[J_M_R]

I usally run the rtr rear hub carriers and i tried the factory team ones today and the cvds are moved to far in. So the shocks wont compress all the way because the cvds hit the inside of the outdrives. I am still running the same a arms and a arm mounts that came with the rtr. could the a arms or arm mounts that come with the rtr be different then the kit? If not what could be causing this?

I have been having a problem with my clutch on my gt for a long time now and i can't figure it out. The end bell is getting really hot, so hot that i can only touch it for a sec or two. The clutch bearings are coming apart on me, after mabye a quart of gas through the engine. I have been using the duratrax bearings that are teflon sealed, should I try running the associated rubber sealed ones? I use the mip 4-n-1 clutch on setting #3, I havent had a chance to try #1(which is the one that engages after the most slip) because my bearings came apart on me. so i don't know if that is my promblem. I have tried reaplacing the end bell, clutch nut, clutch shoes ,bearings and the e clip.

I have had the problem with the clutch ever since i bought the truck. I am almost ready to give up on it and sell it to get a xxx-nt. I really like the gt, but having to reaplace the bearings so often is starting to piss me off(i have reaplaced the bearings mabye 12 times now).

[rocknbil]

J_M_R See below.

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Take a look at the 12 SPD by Dynamite. It'll run about $80, but its ABC, pullstart, and it comes with a machined heatsink: great deal IMO.

Why buy a Dynamite, which I heave heard is not that great of quality, when you can have an OS for $89?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBZ14&P=0

Although the sleeve is NOT true ABC (Aluminum Brass Chrome) it's ABN (Aluminum Brass Nickel) OS engines has been bulding motors since the beginning of the RC hobby and you simply cannot lose with an OS. It's worth the extra nine bucks. A Pull-start is $114.


J_M_R:
So the shocks wont compress all the way because the cvds hit the inside of the outdrives.

If I read this right, you need to scoot the CVD's closer to the transmission? Tris adding CVD spacers?

I have been having a problem with my clutch on my gt for a long time now and i can't figure it out. The end bell is getting really hot, so hot that i can only touch it for a sec or two.

See pookrat's post and the reply: Are you idling too high so the clutch is engaged at all times?

[atm92484_3]

What are you guys using for diff-balls? I was at the track tonight and my diff loosened. I spent 2 tanks trying to figure out why my truck handled like crap (and I thought it was the different springs I was trying....). Anyways, you guys can imagine what happened next. I was planning on just getting the AE diff rebuild kit since it has the rings, thrust bearing, and thrust balls, then maybe an upgraded diff ball (if not I'll just get the AE carbide ones).

[invsible]

give the mip ones a try or i think the losi balls will fit they have those crazy white ones i think their pocilin.......

[sanseric]

I dont know if I am right I took the pipe off mystreet force put it on my rc10gt. Tighten up the turnbuckles and it screams around corners really screams like a person it is the wildest sound you ever heard am i causing problems or is it just the pipe:confused:

[rc10gtroller]

i have a rc10gt rtr i just recently put in a O.S. .12 cv-x i have already upgraded servos i was wondeerin if anybody else has a .12 cv-x in their rc10gt and wonderd if they liked it!!

[sanseric]

yes i do .I changed the head it runs great easy to tune Mine is a year old still going strong

[kdh77]

I have 3 os's; 2 12 cvx's and a 15 hyper and I love them all. Run great and easy to tune . OS makes the best motors in the hobby in my opinion. The 12's are in a gt and a rush, and the 15 is currently just setting on the bench awaiting another car.

[atm92484_3]

I used to have a 12 CV in my GT before I bought a 12 CV-R, and they are nice engines. If you're looking for a good head, consider the MIP one. It doesn't look that good, but it cools really well.

[speedydave]

ATM, was that .12 CVR worth the money? I've got a .12 CV with O'Donnell head in my GT right now, and it's pretty fast, but I know CVR's are faster. Is it worth the money?

[atm92484_3]

Hey I'm not complaining and I've had it for almost 2 years (get my drift?;))

[Leinzey]

I've had a cv-r in my gt for about 6 months now, and it's great. It starts without a hiccup every time, keeps running, and produces plenty of power doing it. Not to mention I got it for free from gits certificates to my hobby shop:D. Definately worth the $120 they were selling it for.

[choops]

Just bought a gtrtr off ebay.
Not so great deal Oh well buyer be ware.
Had to replace steering servo (had an extra laying around)
:rolleyes:
truck was mega filthy.:rolleyes:
tore down trans to check it. totally melted diff gear ($2.50)
On the bright side.
totally tore down truck cleaned and added ball bearings (the first mod. everybody should make)
cant wait to start racing.

I am also working on a custom double deck chasis design with removable radio tray. anybody done this or interested in one.

[popee]

Hi, What temps do you guys normaly aim for with your O.S CV .15 engine?

[micro_man]

Hey guys. I just made a deal with "rc10gtsthebest". I am trading him. I can wait to get it. It is totally hopped up. well i will be here in the thread quite often asking questions most likely. Just wanted to intro. myself.

Later guys

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by popee
Hi, What temps do you guys normaly aim for with your O.S CV .15 engine?

As long as you don't pass 240, you'll be just fine.

Micro, welcome aboard. :)

[evader32]

will the velocity .17 fit in a gt crank shaft wise or is it to long

[ross]

Originally posted by evader32
will the velocity .17 fit in a gt crank shaft wise or is it to long

I havent seen a picture of the Velocity .17 but if it does not havent a 'cut' or 'associated' crankshaft then it will not fit. But you can cut the crankshaft down using a dremel.

One thing I would say though is that if the velocity .17 is a small block engine, it may suffer from overheating problems because of the thiness of the sleeve. Just because it has big displacement doesnt mean its going to be powerful, you would be better off getting a good quality .12 or .15 engine, like the ones made by OS.


Ross.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by choops
Just bought a gtrtr off ebay.
Not so great deal Oh well buyer be ware.


Choops,

You could have sent it back, that is in the eBay bidding policies. Especially if they misrepresent the item. BUT . . .if it's any consolation, many of the people who sell their stuff on eBay don't have a clue, they're either kids who thrash the stuff or just plain didn't realize they were going to have to PAY ATTENTION!

I've had two such deals. The first was overall a pretty sweet deal, it was CLEAN and an anodized chassis with a CVEC pipe. The diff gear WAS melted and the MIP clutch was literally brokem, but once I fixed that it ROCKED.

The second, for my wife, was just as you mentioned, the guy cropped all his details to NOT show the worn out tires, total filth, bearings not bushings, starter box with all the wires fried . . . etc etc . . . but like I said we put a team chassis in it, bearings, CVD's, purple CVEC pipe, and man I tell you what she has ONE BI**EN ride now! :)

I see it this way:

Oooohhhhh you POOR BABIES what have they DONE to you HERE lemme fix you up! :D

I would NEVER sell anything like that. I have a current graphite chassis GT that is in the process of being rebuilt, it had everything from a drilloed and stripped out front bulkead to BENT CVD's, yes bent! But it;s got one very sweet asset, an ALUMINUM TRANNY!

[doesgo]

I've got an electric RC10T and want more speed and power, but I'm new to the nitro scene. I'm strongly considering the RC10GT Plus RTR to start with, but I'm wondering how long of a run time can I expect with this vehicle? I see it has a 75cc tank, typical of this style of truck.

I've also noticed the monster trucks typically have 125cc tanks. Do they get similar run times because they use more fuel to move their considerable bulk?

Also, if you don't mind, after using up a tank of fuel, can you just refill and keep on backyard bashing or does the engine need a cool-down period or anything?

Thanks for helping me out with my totally newbie questions.

Bruce

[rc10gtroller]

i have the rc10gt rtr and you can get about 15mins. on 1 tank.i usally run my car and when its almost empty i fill it back up without shutting off the enigine but i uassly dont run it more than 2 tanks without shuttin it off.after the second tank is empty i shut it off to let it cool.I hope i helped yah out!!!

[doesgo]

That does help a bunch! Thanks. Refueling is a quick deal, right?

How long do you typically let it cool down before you run it again? Is this like a 10-minute deal or an hour or more? Just want to know what to expect, I'm pretty sure nitro is in my near future!

Bruce

[superman_xxxt]

As long as the temperature of the engine is in the safe range,(210-230 depending on engine). You should not need to let the engine cool down. We run 30 min mains with 4 pitstops and come off the track at 230. once the engine gets broken in it will wear less if you just refuel without cooling down. When you cool down, and restart, the engine has to warm up, while it is warming up thier is more interference between the piston and sleave(do to the thermal expansion that the engin goes thru). Once the engine is warm, the piston and sleave are at thier designed operating sizes.
So keep it cool and burn as much fuel as you like.:D

[CyberISda]

Hi i guys i wanted to know which Product number on this wheels both front and rear. Right now I have MIP CVD 1/4 on the rear. Let me know if they only fit with MIP CVD 3/16.

http://rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/KitSpecs,GT/tbgt-pictures/tbgt-tire-sm.gif

Help

[doesgo]

How does one find out the engine temperature? My experience is with electric (obviously!), this is all new to me.

Bruce

[ross]

Originally posted by doesgo
How does one find out the engine temperature? My experience is with electric (obviously!), this is all new to me.

Bruce


The cheapest way is to spit on the engine head and if it sizzles away in under 5 seconds then it his running to hot.

If you want something a bit more accurate then you can get a MIP Temp 2 Guage or a Venom Temperature Monitor. These are on board temp checkers. And they are about $30US

The most accurate way of measuring the temperature of your engine is with a temperature gun. Which is a hand held device which you point at the engine head and it will tell you the temp. These range from $50US to $80US.


Hope this helped


Ross.

[ross]

Originally posted by CyberISda
Hi i guys i wanted to know which Product number on this wheels both front and rear. Right now I have MIP CVD 1/4 on the rear. Let me know if they only fit with MIP CVD 3/16.

http://rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/KitSpecs,GT/tbgt-pictures/tbgt-tire-sm.gif

Help


Those are Pro-line wheels, the part numbers are:

Front:
White: #2635-00
Yellow: #2635-02

Rear:
White: #2636-00
Yellow: #2636-02

My understanding about different wheel/axle sizes is that you can put 3/16" wheels on 1/4" axles but you cant put 1/4" wheels on 3/16" axles. Thats what my LHS told me anyway.



Ross.

[superman_xxxt]

My understanding about different wheel/axle sizes is that you can put 3/16" wheels on 1/4" axles but you cant put 1/4" wheels on 3/16" axles. Thats what my LHS told me anyway.
I don't think so
If you used the 3/16 rims on 1/4 axles you would have a 3/16 hole with a 1/4 axles in it. now that would'nt be to good would it.

Factory Team rear 3/16 axles
Front 1/4
All other rear 1/4
Front 1/4

[atm92484_3]

Actually all new GTs now have a 3/16" rear axle. Previously, the bushing kits (Sport and RTR) had the 1/4" axle and when the GT first came out, all kits had the 1/4" axles. The front axle has always been 3/16", but the outer diameter of the bearing/the hole in the wheel is 3/8". You can run 3/16" rims on 1/4" rims, but you have to carefully enlarge part of the hole to accept the wider part of the axle.

[toddzilla]

what do i need to get this to work? i know there are a few guys in here that have this engine in their trucks.
thanks

[violator757]

i belive the m-16 designed for the t-mxx will drop right in since its a short crank so your all good

[J_M_R]

I have the m16 in my gt. It drops right in to the gt. The only complaint I have with the engine is that the carb sucks. Once you put a different carb on it, it runs pretty good. I put an AE15 carb on it, and honed out the carb. The manual says to run the mccoy mc9, but I run the mccoy mc59. I don't know if its true but my lhs said that the mc59 will give me more power. That glow plug runs good in the engine so i have never tried the mc9.

[low_ridah10]

Anyone know how much bearings for the clutch housing would cost me?? i have a RC10GT with a OS12 motor and a MIP racing clutch..thanks!

[violator757]

low rida there not much asa a matter of fact when you find out the size lmk i might have some spares i can send you lmk whe you find out nd then i can look for my spares lmk asap thanks

[low_ridah10]

thanks man. I should be able to get some from my LHS i just cant get a hold of them to find a price untill tuesday. Also wondering if there are any websites for the older style tub chassis RC10GT?? Im looking for upgrades and stuff and what parts off the new RC10GT will fit on the old chassis??

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by rocknbil
J_M_R See below.



Why buy a Dynamite, which I heave heard is not that great of quality, when you can have an OS for $89?





i dont know who told you dynamite engines arent of great quality,but they are wrong.ive run 2 .12SPDs in my gt.the first one i blew up cuz i got mad and held it at full throtttle till the con rod snapped.the second one blew cuz the element in the glowplug fell into the sleeve and scratched the hell out of it.they are definately worth the money,run very cool and have great power.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by J_M_R


I have been having a problem with my clutch on my gt for a long time now and i can't figure it out. The end bell is getting really hot, so hot that i can only touch it for a sec or two. The clutch bearings are coming apart on me, after mabye a quart of gas through the engine. I have been using the duratrax bearings that are teflon sealed, should I try running the associated rubber sealed ones? I use the mip 4-n-1 clutch on setting #3, I havent had a chance to try #1(which is the one that engages after the most slip) because my bearings came apart on me. so i don't know if that is my promblem. I have tried reaplacing the end bell, clutch nut, clutch shoes ,bearings and the e clip.

I have had the problem with the clutch ever since i bought the truck. I am almost ready to give up on it and sell it to get a xxx-nt. I really like the gt, but having to reaplace the bearings so often is starting to piss me off(i have reaplaced the bearings mabye 12 times now).

i had the same problem while using duratrax bearings.go get a set of the associated bearings or dynamite red sealed bearings.i have never had a problem with either one,unless of course the e clip comes off.

[lday]

Who makes a .21 conversion kit for the rc10gt or is there one that will just bolt in and where can i get it thanks for the help

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
i dont know who told you dynamite engines arent of great quality,but they are wrong.

It's all over the boards in the Nitro forum, I've never had one but there are lots of posts about it.

My only comment is that OS has been long known for quality engines and parts and is a solid investment for the extra nine bucks.

The cheapest way is to spit on the engine head and if it sizzles away in under 5 seconds then it his running to hot.

Ross is correct here EXCEPT that it shouldn't SIZZLE at all. It shouod steam and evaporate, but if it SIZZLES you are easily over the boiling temperature of water which is 230°

[trxstr1961]

just got me ANOTHER gt (tub chassis) and am wondering what a decent mill for it is going to be, since this ine is gonna be a on-road cruiser. also, what tires and rims would u reccomend?? pics will be helpful also

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by rocknbil
It's all over the boards in the Nitro forum, I've never had one but there are lots of posts about it.


The Dynamite engines are fine. You just have to know what you're doing, but O.S. engines are by far the easiest to tune. The CV line of engines are awesome, but they do lack ABC constructions and a machined head though (the MIP head is around $30 though and its well worth it, but the Duratrax ABC conversion is garbage).

Originally posted by lday
Who makes a .21 conversion kit for the rc10gt or is there one that will just bolt in and where can i get it thanks for the help

New Era Models makes a .21 conversion for the GT, but I wouldn't reccomend it. The GT tranny is awesome, but it still won't last to the power of a .21. Even with metal gears, you have to worry about them wearing out and costing a lot to replace. Look to the 15 CV-R unless you are willing to deal with a .21.

TRX, look to Proline for the tires. They are called Road Rages and they are part number 1062-00. Any rim would work, but I'd reccomend Proline for performance and RPM for looks. As for an engine, try a 15 CV-R along with different springs, oils, and a more onroad appropriate caster setting for the front.

TRX and lday, the new TRX 2.5 are also very powerful engines. If it can flip a T-Maxx backwards, I'm sure it'll make a GT move.

[trey3670]

hey guys jus got a gt plus coupla weeks ago traded the punisher tie rods off my old rc10t over to it and my next project is the four shoe clutch and gears any combo sugjestions? thanks

[atm92484_3]

Where you will be running will really be the determining factor as to which gears you should use. I would also get a MIP clutch over the 4 shoe. It will cost less and allow you to have an adjustable engaugement.