Associated RC10GT Forum v4.0

[illbreakit]

Snow it gone:D Time to get my gt runnin again:cool: I need new servos, had a hitek 605 metal gear but fried the motor. Anyone have any recomendations for servos?

[illbreakit]

forgot to send pic

[illbreakit]

the other side

[Got Speed]

poopie- It acts like either I need a rebuild or it has an air leak. I don't think it needs a rebuild since I only have 3 quarts of %20 on it and I havn't been hard on it at all.

[Slickboy99]

What air filter are you using? How dusty was the track? Could the air filter have gotten real dirty.

[wannabee]

Got speed- My friend had this same problem when using the mc-9 glow plug. I had him switch to the mc-59 (what i use) and he hasn't had the problem anymore. Come to think of it i had this problem with the original glow plug that came with that engine. just a thought

[Got Speed]

SlickBoy99- I am using the filter that comes with the AE .15. I had just cleaned the air filter earlier in the day. The track wasn't dusty.

wannabee-I'm using an MC-59. I looked at it to see if it was going bad and it would still glow real bright.

I checked the fuel line and it's clean. I found a little peice of something on the high speed needle though. I cleaned the needle and tried driving it again but it still bogged down.
The engine still has plenty of compression.
It is really weird because for the first three laps it acts normally and then it just bogs way down. I lose about %75 of my performance.

[StevePond]

Speed, what engine are you using, and whats the engine temp when it's bogging bad?

[EbayGTDisaster]

man, everytime i run my gt i break something, too bad i'm an idjit, lol. well, after 4 weeks and about 200 dollars, my truck is sweet. i just purchased a mag jr. am and installed the servos, now i need to get a new throttle/brake linkage set(realized mine has been hacked so much it's scary, and can only get 1/2 throttle if i want the carb to close to idle when i let go of the controls) i'm also running the truck without a rear bumper(due to a run in with a curb, it exploded, wish i had a digi camcorder, lol) but i did get new shocks(sweetness) rpm ballcups, new spur, new turnbuckles, etc..... i think i'ma go with the ofna throttle linkage set, and then i think my truck is about as hopped up as i can get it, lol. anywho, just keepin the thread goin, and if i ever find the install disc for my pc cam, i'll post pics.

[redsmurfhat]

You exploded the REAR bumper?!? Oh, man... I wish you could've got that on camera too! Funny... Holy Cr*p guys! 101 pages? Keep it up!

[Got Speed]

Steve- I am using the AE.15 and it was 270 if I remeber right.

[NewToNitro]

I just got a RC10GT team kit and this is the first kit i have built( i have 2 other nitro cars though). I need a good cheap steering servo but good enough for racing on sundays). I was looking at the Cirrus CS-80 the speed sucks but it has like 120oz tourqe(overkill?). What rims fit the GT....i dont really care for dish rims. Is there any advantage to them?

[EbayGTDisaster]

Originally posted by redsmurfhat
You exploded the REAR bumper?!? Oh, man... I wish you could've got that on camera too! Funny... Holy Cr*p guys! 101 pages? Keep it up!

LOL, not just the rear bumper, but the battery case as well, batts everywhere, lol. well, i got some pics, they r low quality but check em out still......(stupid intel pc cam)

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/fedupwtdisshit/lst?.dir=/Trrrrrrrrrrrrrruck.&.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/fedupwtdisshit/lst%3f.dir=/Trrrrrrrrrrrrrruck.%26.src=ph%26.view=t

[illbreakit]

Iv'e got the Odonnell head for the AE.15 and it is all pitted in the comb chamber. My piston has a pitted ring around the outside of the top too. The pistin is only a month old and the head is about 3. I fun Odonnell 20% fuel ant the temp is between 230 260, Mcoy 59 plug. What woulkd cause the pittping and is it OK to use my head still. I wad thinking of milling a little off the head to remove the pitting and reduce the comp ratio if the pitting was caused by detonation.
PS I race against a couple of MT12.s and a rb concepts so I think I might have stressed the mill a little.

Thanx tor any help

[MPTech]

Someone has to have this, can you scan and email me? please "The Truth about Engine Break-In by DAVE GIERKE in the Jan 2002 issue"?

I would sure appreciate it.

[Jwelch]

Has anyone checked out the HG aluminum conversion kit for the GT? It looks awesome! Check it out at Stormer Hobbies in the featured items boxes on the home page. It comes with chassis, shock clips, arms (4), shock ends, rear hubs, front axles, etc etc. Yea yea, I know it's not for racing, but swtich out the aluminum arms when it comes time to compete and you're all set!

[earnhardtjr]

I have it. Lets me see if I can make an electronic copy of it for you. I will let you know. Worst case I will copy it and mail it to you the old fasion way.

I will check into it today.

Guy

[mississippi]

Here is a link to my Gt in the buy/sell/trade
Gt for sale (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74026)

How much do you guys think its worth?

thanks

[ritchies rc10gt]

havent been here in 2 weeks and boy do things change.

heres an update on my OS .15 CVX hyper.it seems to get better with every tank i run through it and the longer it runs the better it runs so far ive put about half a gallon through it.It is definately a fuel drinker!i was running a 15t CB and 66T spur.it was way to snappy off the line ,spinning out or wheelies on anytype of surface.i changed to a 16T CB to try to get it not so snappy but still have a good take off with a little more speed.The new clutchbell did tame it a little.im waiting for the LHS to get the next size up so i can try it.with the 16/66 combo at full throttle it goes so fast that if i turn the wheel it will do a 180* spin and keep sliding backwards with the wheels spinning.I wish i bought an OS engine when i killed the AE .15!i was a little scared of the OS's because they are ABN and not ABC construction.So far i like this engine,i think it was worth the 200 bucks i payed for it.

i finally cleaned and straightend out my pit box today.man did i accumulate some junk and broken parts in a year!now it looks empty and weighs less

[ttweedle]

Well I got my FTGT finally put together! All Im waiting on now is for my Starter Box and Reciever batt to show up in the mail and I can fine tune the servos and EPA's, then its off to breaking in the engine. Oh, I guess I should paint the body too.

[Got Speed]

Ritchies-How many gallons did you get from your AE.15?

[violator757]

i have seen that sight pretty cool pics also ttt
:D

[EbayGTDisaster]

mississippi needs to give that poor truck a bath :D

[ross]

Has anyone else noticed that the Kimborough spur gears dont seem to fit on the shaft? I bought a 66t one the other day because my other one was bent. It seems has if the hole is too small and so it wont go on.

Has anyone else had this problem or is it just a one off faulty one?



Also... I just have to say Well Done to AE for making such a great truck, Ive had my GT just under 2 months and I cant say a bad thing about it, the thing thats really impresed me is the durability. The other day my neighbour was driving my truck and he went full throttle into a curb and i didnt break a thing. I am very pleased with my truck, looking forward to hopping it up!!!!



ross

[NewToNitro]

I need to talk to someone about this truck....can someone IM me on AOL/AIM Hpiauditt or on MSN fasttransamws6@hotmail.com

[ritchies rc10gt]

no gallons i got half a gallon through it for some reason before the con rod bushing exploded and i wasnt beating on it either

[violator757]

hey man i have had this happen to me but i wasnt smart enought to take the engine mount screwws loose i was adding a larger gear so it seemed like it wouldnt fit try that and let us know

[atm92484_3]

Ross, try taking an Exacto knife and remove any flashing on the hole and see if that helps. I only use RRP plastic spurs and I haven't had any trouble; these are what I'd reccomend for next time.

[speedydave]

I saw someone with a Kimborough spur for their T-Maxx, and it wouldn't fit either, but it was the other way around...the kimborough spur had too large of a hole. I'd get an RRP gear. I've never had a problem with an RRP gear. I can't wait to get my GT!!!:)

[Got Speed]

ritchies-I ask because mine acts like it is worn out after 7/8 of a gallon. Not very much compression, bad performance after a few laps. But it never stalls.

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

i just got a motor after being screwed over by impulsenut. i just installed a RB X12 rear port motor with a nova rossi slid carb. I havent ran it yet i am gonna break it in tormow. Dose any one have this motor how dose it run.. ill get some pics up soon bye

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

one other thing how do i get the slide carb to work on the gt.

[ross]

Thanks for the help guys. Ill probaly just take the Kimborough gear back and get one of these RRP gears.



thanks again


ross

[ritchies rc10gt]

i think if you were to look back a few pages you will find a pic of somebodies truck with a slide carb on it.i think it was Alter ego's truck.i have a slide carb on mine but i cant find my camara to take pics of it yet.but ill see if a friend has a digi cam to take a few for me.

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

i looked areound on the post i found one Gt with a cvr with slid carb. but im running the novarossi carb on a RBx12 and the carb isnt at a 90 degere angel with the crank. so when i setup the linkage i cant get teh carb to close and the servo wont brake much after it closes. ill try geting pics of it today thanks

[wannabee]

ok guys let me have it. i need to buy a new steering servo. there are way to many choices. hi tech 5925, jr 8450, airtronics 94757, or futaba 9450. i would like a digital servo but have know idea as to who makes the better ones. if i havn't listed something that i should consider please let me know.

[ross]

Originally posted by wannabee
ok guys let me have it. i need to buy a new steering servo. there are way to many choices. hi tech 5925, jr 8450, airtronics 94757, or futaba 9450. i would like a digital servo but have know idea as to who makes the better ones. if i havn't listed something that i should consider please let me know.


I like the Hi-Tec servo's, and that servo is a very good one, its quick and torqey at the same time. Im not sure on the other servo's though.



ross

[atm92484_3]

I second what Ross said; go with the Hitec. Futaba servos are nice, but they are overpriced IMO for what you get.

[NewToNitro]

OK i need help! LOL I just got it all put together and it doesnt roll very good. Well no where near as good as my NRS4 or T-Maxx. Also on those when i turn one wheel one way the other wheel goes the other way. The GT doesnt(that normal?). I think i messed up building the Diff....im going to go redo it can anyone give me some pointers?

IF ANYONE IS ON AOL/AIM IM ME!!!!! HpiAudiTT!!

OR MSN Fasttransamws6@hotmail.com!!! PLEASE!

[ritchies rc10gt]

has anybody tried the LOSI dirt spec tires?i bought a set cuz last year people said they hooked up real good at the tracks.they look kinda funky on the GT though cuz they are blue.

[ross]

Originally posted by NewToNitro
OK i need help! LOL I just got it all put together and it doesnt roll very good. Well no where near as good as my NRS4 or T-Maxx. Also on those when i turn one wheel one way the other wheel goes the other way. The GT doesnt(that normal?). I think i messed up building the Diff....im going to go redo it can anyone give me some pointers?

IF ANYONE IS ON AOL/AIM IM ME!!!!! HpiAudiTT!!

OR MSN Fasttransamws6@hotmail.com!!! PLEASE!

It could be because of 3 thing:

1. Your gear mesh is wrong, the clutchbell is to far in agaist the spur gear. You will need to lossen the engine mount screws on the chassis and move the engine further away from the spur gear. You can if it is this because it will make a clicking or crunching sound.

2. Your brake is dragging, make sure the brake arm is moved towards the end of the truck and try rolling it then.

3. You might have messed up on the diffs, try taking the whole of the diff apart and rebuilding and spend some time doing it, it will pay off!!!


hope this helped



ross

[ttweedle]

I have a question about the GT tranny, I have a T3 and its tranny is super smooth, You can spin the outdrive(tranny not in truck) and the gears will spin for 5-8 seconds. My GT's tranny wouldn't do this. Is that ok? it felt kinda stiff, not binding but sorta like if you had put grease on the gears(which i didn't do). Is this normal for the GT. this is my first nitro so I'm not sure.

Travis

[DR.GT]

tweedle:

As to your wondering I've seen my son's T3 tranny seem a bit smoother than my GT's. The only thing I can figure is that the GT tranny is a 2:6.1 ratio compared to the T3's 2:4.1 and thats based on the older style T2 tranny. As for spinning that long I've never worried about it but I would recommend that you keep the GT diff tighter than
the T3 tranny. The spinning might have something to do with dirty bearings in the tranny also. Another thing make sure you don't tighten the tranny cases to tight ( only just snug ) or you'll blow idler gears quickly from the tranny cases possibly binding. Just put a thin line of the black grease around the edge of the lip where the two cases go together and assemble them and wipe the excess grease off and your good to go. That'll seal your tranny from dirt etc.

hope this helps...

[atm92484_3]

Its also possible the T3 tranny's gears aren't as tight since it won't be dealing with the power of a nitro engine, so you get more of a loose feel.

[NewToNitro]

Thanks for all the help!! I took it to my LHS and he said its fine(he races these every sunday so ill take his word for it)

Now what engine(one good enough to race club races every sunday)?I was thinking OS .12 CV-X...any other good engines for 150 or less? And what servo? I need a servo with Airtronics Z connectors(hitech/JR) What about the Cirrus CS-80??
CS-80
Size: 1.6 x 1.69 x 0.79in.
Weight: 2.01oz.
6v Speed: 0.25sec/60°
6v Torque: 129.86 oz-in.

[Turboduck02]

I tried them out and I like them quite a bit! I know the blue looks weird but it's okay :) What matters is where you finish :) I like em, give em a whirl!
not to be rude, and i'm not sure if i can do this but on the very first page there is a pic of my truck with the losi dirt specs on. That's the only page with any piccs with blue dirt specs.
www.turboduck01.cjb.net

[ritchies rc10gt]

thanx turboduck.the blue tires look wierd but everything on my truck except the purple pipe and header are blue.im waiting for a warm day so i can run it on the track and see if i like them.they looked like they hooked up good.

has anybody had any trouble with the duratrax bearings?i am on my third set now in less than 2 weeks.after every run even if all i do is blast it down the street they blow apart

[atm92484_3]

I've ran Duratrax bearings before and they are okay, but I wouldn't reccomend them. Like you, I've had a few blow. The ones that you are blowing apart wouldn't be the 3/8"x1/4" ones in the rear axle by any chance?

[Jwelch]

Yeah, Duratrax makes some explosive bearings. I've blown maybe 3 sets of clutchbell bearings.. all DTX. Buy Boca (expensive) or Dynamite. They seem to make quality bearings. AE's are really nice, but like I said a few pages back... 80 bucks for little steel rings is nuts.

-John

[illbreakit]

hey Ross, am i right to asume that you have a trans am with a ws6 mill?(your email add.) What year? My baby is an 81 turbo TA witn the 301t. Down a little on tourque but the turbo makes up for it in the top end. In the pricess of restoring it(not concours, but nicer) Hope to get some pics soon

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I've ran Duratrax bearings before and they are okay, but I wouldn't reccomend them. Like you, I've had a few blow. The ones that you are blowing apart wouldn't be the 3/8"x1/4" ones in the rear axle by any chance?

yes they are.but i ran a hacked setup with the AE flanged bearings and never blew one though.does Boca bearings do COD orders and what is the web address for them?

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by illbreakit
hey Ross, am i right to asume that you have a trans am with a ws6 mill?(your email add.) What year? My baby is an 81 turbo TA witn the 301t. Down a little on tourque but the turbo makes up for it in the top end. In the pricess of restoring it(not concours, but nicer) Hope to get some pics soon


as a pontiac nut i am gonna give you some very good advice:get rid of the 301!they have very week bottom ends.get your self a nice pontiac 400 to put in it.you will love the 400 engine.i had a 400 in a 1970 lemans.the engine was all stock except cam,intake,carb,home port and polish,and headers.that car would smoke the tires off of it from a stand still or cruising about 30 MPH drop in 1ST gear and floor it as far as i kept my foot in the gas.visit this website if you havent already: CLASSICALPONTIAC.COM.tons of good info on pontiacs and parts and cars for sale

and i own a 1966 grand prix with a mild 389 in it.i will be building a 455 with around 750+HP next year

[ross]

Originally posted by illbreakit
hey Ross, am i right to asume that you have a trans am with a ws6 mill?(your email add.) What year? My baby is an 81 turbo TA witn the 301t. Down a little on tourque but the turbo makes up for it in the top end. In the pricess of restoring it(not concours, but nicer) Hope to get some pics soon

nah i dont, sorry not sure what your talking about. im english and dont know alot about american cars. :o :o


thanks everyone for the spur gear help, i bought another one and it fits perfectly so that other one must have been faulty, ill bore the whole out and keep it has a spare.


Ive just bought a Losi Triton body for the XXXNT, Im gonna try and put it on my GT, Ive put longer HPI body posts on the front so there should be no problem. The body is the same has the Dynamite Triton for the RC10GT but my LHS didnt have that one instock.



ross

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by NewToNitro
Thanks for all the help!! I took it to my LHS and he said its fine(he races these every sunday so ill take his word for it)

Now what engine(one good enough to race club races every sunday)?I was thinking OS .12 CV-X...any other good engines for 150 or less? And what servo? I need a servo with Airtronics Z connectors(hitech/JR) What about the Cirrus CS-80??
CS-80
Size: 1.6 x 1.69 x 0.79in.
Weight: 2.01oz.
6v Speed: 0.25sec/60°
6v Torque: 129.86 oz-in.

Yeah they work great. For the money ya can't beat them either. The only problem with it, is that it is a little slow. I am racing with mine now and haven't really needed any more speed anyway.

[illbreakit]

as a pontiac nut i am gonna give you some very good advice:get rid of the 301!they have very week bottom ends.get your self a nice pontiac 400 to put in it.you will love the 400 engine
What part of the bottom ends are weak? Rods, or mains? I am partial to the 301, have allways liked a challenge. Iwant about 350-375 hp, nothing fancy but I want to do it with the stock engine. I mean whats the point of having a turbo TA if it ain't gona be the turbo engine,right? Either that or I am throwing around the Idea of doing a twin turbo 350. That would still keep it a turbo TA, but cost a lot more:rolleyes: Having enough trouble convincing the wife to let me do this motor:mad: . Thanx for your input.
PS I gota save some money for my GT too:D Complete rebuild this spring:eek:

[wannabee]

Ritchies- Here is the address you were looking for. http://www.bocabearings.com/hobby/

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by illbreakit

What part of the bottom ends are weak? Rods, or mains? I am partial to the 301, have allways liked a challenge. Iwant about 350-375 hp, nothing fancy but I want to do it with the stock engine. I mean whats the point of having a turbo TA if it ain't gona be the turbo engine,right? Either that or I am throwing around the Idea of doing a twin turbo 350. That would still keep it a turbo TA, but cost a lot more:rolleyes: Having enough trouble convincing the wife to let me do this motor:mad: . Thanx for your input.
PS I gota save some money for my GT too:D Complete rebuild this spring:eek:


the rods and mains are weak in them.unfortunately you are stuck with the stock heads and intake.edelbrock does not make an intake for the 301.and the 301 heads are completely different from the 326 to the 455 heads.the 301 is a small block and the rest of the pontiac engines are big blocks.if you want headers on the 301 forget it!completely different bolt pattern from the bigger engines.i forget how much HP the 301 makes but youll never see 350HP from it.youd be better to take the money your gonna waste on the 301 and throw it out the window.i dont wanna sound like jerk here but this is what your gonna do.you can pick up a good 400 block from a junkyard for around 50-100 dollars.a 400 pontiac engine looks exactly like the 301 except its wider.it will bolt right in your car with only changing the exhaust manifolds and Y-pipe.visit CLASSICALPONTIAC.com,go to the Q&A lots of good pontiac info.there is even a firebird with a 400 with turbo in it and the ownar tells you exactly what you need to do it

[ritchies rc10gt]

has anybody tried putting a rear anti roll bar on the GT?i bought the one for the b3 and t3 tonight and made it fit.does it help or will it help anything?i know i probably wasted 9 dollars but oh well.i know the bar itself needs to be thicker though so that probably means it wont do anything.

[atm92484_3]

I've heard of numerous oval guys running anti-sway bars. Run it and see how it is; I think you'll see a difference in reduced body roll.

[DR.GT]

If you don't have a high traction track then the "roll bar" is not worth your while!.....:)

[EbayGTDisaster]

LOL, again with the bad luck, met with the front tire of a parked corolla, turnbuckle popped off, broken shock cup, lol. another 2 dollars invested into this thing. now if only i could learn to drive....:D

[williamsedw]

Need to order Ofna throttle linkage for my rc10 gt. I believe I need part number 10721. What is a good online store to place my order?

[Got Speed]

Iam running on a high traction oval. Should I use swaybars?

[DR.GT]

Got Speed;

I don't use them personally, but it depends on your track. If you are high bite then I'd look at using them. It really boils down if you are a competetive driver or not( look in the mirror & be honest)as they can help as long as the rest of your setup is ok and working for you as they can be a extra tuning advantage to get you over the hump and be just that much more faster!

Do it...

[ritchies rc10gt]

i tried my GT out yesterday with the sway bar.i am running the thick bar.Everything on it is the same as it was before except for the sway bar.it never flipped while turning at full throttle.now it does.it used to be all over the place while going straight under full throttle.its not that bad now.The sway bar does help.i honestly thought it wouldnt do anything other than when people see it they would say" wow thats cool".


i also tried the losi tires.they hook up much better than the bowties and step pins.


i have a question for gear ratios.

at my LHS this summer we are going to be having drag races.i want to make mine faster.here is what i have for gears,14T,15T,18T clutch bells and 64T,66T spur gears.i know with the 18T CB it will give more speed with the 66T spur.but wich one is faster with the 64 T spur?i have the 18/64 combo on it know but havent tried it yet.i might see if i can get a cop to clock it with the radar gun.

[illbreakit]

Hey ritchies rc10gt. Thanx for the info on my Pontiac. That site was very helpful. Now I'm stuck with the delema to go Chevy or keep my TA Pontiac:rolleyes: LOL. Anywnay, started working on my GT today;) Man I need alot of stuff. good thing racing season isn't for another couple of months here. My bank needs time to adjust LOL.
Does anyone have recomendations for servos(throttle and sterring) My LHS deals in Hitec and Airtronics so info on those would be helpfull.
Thanx

[DR.GT]

illbreakit:

I've used Airtronics for years but I had problems with getting them fixed and their warranty dept.

I would go with the new digital hitecs. I'm using the 5925 for steering and 5945 for throttle/brake.
Also Hitec's service is 2nd to none, they are excellent for warranty work and Gary Fleigal from Calgary is a hitec rep and is always around to answer questions or help.

$.02 :)

[Got Speed]

Dr GT- I am racing on dirt oval. I have a good setup right now but I was wondering if rollbars caused any negative handling characteristics?

[alpine75]

A quick question about a part. I broke my inline steering block(part # 6221) for RC10GT RTR. I was wondering if there is a alunimum or anything other than plastic part available. And if there is where I might find it. Thanks in advance.

[DR.GT]

Got Speed:

Rollbars(I believe you mean sway bars) are used to help keep your chassis from leaning in corners and staying flat. If your suspension leans to much it will give you more traction which in turn can scrub off speed thru corners. The name for this is tight.

What you ideally want is a loose feeling vehicle that has traction but does not scrub off speed in the corners so that you can go as fast as possible.

Trying swaybars, different springs, oil weights etc on the inside and outside shocks can all get the loose feel you need. You"ll just have to experiment to find what you like for you driving feel and speed setup.

[wannabee]

Alpine75- GPM makes what you are looking for. Its the only one I've found. It is distributed by Hobby Etc and is part number rgt2107. There about 25 bucks.

[sicnarf82]

This has probably already been asked at some point, but I'm new and don't really have the time to look thru 103 pages of replies, so anyway, I want to get a GT, but are there any major differences chassis, tranny, or suspension wise between an RTR or say an all out Team Edition? I like to build my own cars, but the price of the RTR seems hard to beat. There has to be a catch.:confused:

[alpine75]

Thanks wannabee. It looks like I will have to shell out 25 Bucks.

[atm92484_3]

Ritchies, the truck will be faster with an 18/64 over an 18/66. If you have enough engine and room, try maybe a 20/62.

Sicnarf, the main difference between the GT RTR and the Team Built/Team/FT GTs are the chassises; the RTR chassis is about 1/4" shorter. AE also substituted a few RTR parts for a lower grade piece to lower the cost of the car (shock towers, blue annoed shocks, and a few other things like that but the upgraded parts are direct fits). 99% of the parts for the Team Built/Team/FT GT will fit the RTR.

[wannabee]

Sicnarf82- The quickest way is for this to be answered is for you to go to this web page http://www.teamassociated.com/index.htm
Click on parts then off road then drawing. This will tell you every part that is the same or not. The biggest differance is the chassis is 1/4" shorter, dog bones and the only bearrings are the idler gear and the cluch bell. I have what started as a rtr. It is alot less expensive to get the ftgt unless you like to pick and choose your parts. I got the rtr because I wanted to be able to drive the car after each change. This way I can learn what changes each part makes while I'm having a blast.

[ritchies rc10gt]

well i got beat by a FT GT today.he is running an OS .12CV N/PS 14/66 gears.im running the OS 15 CVX hyper with 18/64 gears.we were both running the same header and pipe.when i got home i changed mine back to the larger tube RTR header that i port matched to the block.i am going to lean it out a little bit more as i am running richer than it should.im going to try to beat him tomorrow.are than any other gears that will fit the tranny that will gear it higher?or another whole tranny with higher gears that i could make fit with minor modifications?any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

he was impressed at how fast mine was though.i almost had him.i only needed about another 2 feet and i would have won.one thing i do know is i could beat him on the track cuz his driving is worst than mine.

[illbreakit]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
well i got beat by a FT GT today.he is running an OS .12CV N/PS 14/66 gears.im running the OS 15 CVX hyper with 18/64 gears.
Ritchies, gear that GT down!:eek: With a 15/66 you probibly(sp) would have smoked him. Your ratio is to high for dragin, thats why you almost caught up at the end, top speed is great but acceleration is crappy. Kinda like puttin 2.08 in your Pontiac and racin'. Super fast on the highway but takes a while to get there.
BTW thanx again for that ClassicalPontiac site, and ya got a spare 400 kickin around? LOL:D Will send a pic of my baby (her good side of course) soon.

[Skateboarder]

Would it be possible to get the nitro ds conversion for a current ft gt. I love my ft gt but I want to try onroad with out having to get a nitro touring car so the nitro ds conversion would be great, just not sure if it would work on a newer gt.
Thanks

[atm92484_3]

The conversion will not work. The NDS uses the older tub chassis. Therefore, the NDS nose plate (which is different from the GT one) would not fit the plate chassis.

For $100, you could buy a NDS off of Tower and just borrow the engine and electronics from your GT.

[Austin GT]

Today we started reconstruction of our club track. We now have more clay than we can use but in good time we will have a track to be VERY PROUD of. Tomorrow is race day and there's easily an hour of finishing work. I'm really impressed with this club and it's members,most of them are knowledgable,skilled and worthy contenders for all around rc racing. I've got some adjustments to make because 2 triples, 2 big tabletops,2 chicanes,and a whole lot of more **** will definetly put your set-up to the test!! I'm out numbered by Losi, but half these guys can't keep'em running.Those Piccos are so finicky. I've got to really have my **** together because I know this track is gonna separate the men from the boys .:D :(

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by illbreakit

Ritchies, gear that GT down!:eek: With a 15/66 you probibly(sp) would have smoked him. Your ratio is to high for dragin, thats why you almost caught up at the end, top speed is great but acceleration is crappy. Kinda like puttin 2.08 in your Pontiac and racin'. Super fast on the highway but takes a while to get there.
BTW thanx again for that ClassicalPontiac site, and ya got a spare 400 kickin around? LOL:D Will send a pic of my baby (her good side of course) soon.


i think i will try those gears again cuz i got beat by another RTR with an OS .15 cvr on the straights but i was closing in on him in a big way till we hit the corner.acceleration with the 18/64 is still too much for it.it still spins out when takin off.maybe ill even try the 14/66 gears again

finally after a year i bought a starter box today.im tired of yankin.


if you have questions about pontiacs let me know and ill help you.ive been into pontiacs about 10 years now.send me an email or instant message if you need help,GRANDPRIX1966455@aol.com

[CGV]

#1

[CGV]

#2
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/t_riggers_03/vwp?.dir=/Car+Photos&.src=ph&.dnm=Roll+4+-+76.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/t_riggers_03/lst%3f%26.dir=/

[speedydave]

I just got my GT today, and raced it(it was already broken in). Now I know why you guys like these things so much! Wow! Gas racing is definitely different from electric. I'm in love! Plus, it doesn't hurt that the engine is an OS CV with O'Donnell head, and started right up every time! Plus, this thing makes good power, even for a standard CV! I gotta get out to the track more now...

[atm92484_3]

Great to hear you're enjoying the truck Dave.

CGV, rotate the head on the engine 90 degrees to help with cooling. With the way the head is now, its not allowing for maximum airflow over the head.

[59HemiHearse]

i was working on my computer today and i noticed the fan.... i took an old 2 inch CPU fan and an old basher body and yeah, you guessed it, bolted the fan to the driver sod of the car where the number plate used to be, it looks goofy as hell but maybe itll do something, i dont know lol but yes ive lost my mind, byebye now

[CGV]

sorry for the small pics, i need to find a place to upload them. what place do u guys use?

[trxstr1961]

Originally posted by CGV
#1


Man, nice ride :)

I just got me a RTR gt, and i am finding out all kinds of cool things about it on here. Where or how can i get that ofna linkage, the ftgt chassis, and the nice blue servo save at? Also, my carb arm rotates a complete 360 degrees.. is that good or not?? if not can it get fixed or do i replace it, im running the AE mill right now.

Ive gotton mine took completely apart, man did we get taken!! GGRRRR:mad: Paid $165 for this truck, and ive found so many things wrong with it! But its all good here..hehehehe got a plan for this new ride see, nya nya see, ;)

Dude musta gotten it for xmas, cause it wasnt taken care of, dirt everywhere, parts missing, it was in bad shape, but now that ive gotten it, heh heh heh look out.:cool:

Found a lot of KILLER tips and ideas for this awsome truck, wanted one for the longest, and now i have it.. look out track!

[CGV]

i dont have the ofna throttle linkage (yet) but the servo saver is made by ofna, you dont really need it unless you get the MIP BB steering. the ft chassis is 30-40$ and horizonhobby.com and towerhobbies.com should sell both of those things.

[illbreakit]

CGV! Turn your head 90 degrees on your motor! Thost 'block heads' were designed to have aie flow through the fins and down onto the center of the head. They put them on at the factory that way because of mosy motors are installeed in 4wd cars thar run the motor leingth wise, not cross wise. Turning the head will allow the air from the window hole to come in, hit the fins, be angled down onto the center of the head(where the most heat is), and back up and out.

[CGV]

ty. atm caught me on that too

[EbayGTDisaster]

Originally posted by trxstr1961



Man, nice ride :)

I just got me a RTR gt, and i am finding out all kinds of cool things about it on here. Where or how can i get that ofna linkage, the ftgt chassis, and the nice blue servo save at? Also, my carb arm rotates a complete 360 degrees.. is that good or not?? if not can it get fixed or do i replace it, im running the AE mill right now.

Ive gotton mine took completely apart, man did we get taken!! GGRRRR:mad: Paid $165 for this truck, and ive found so many things wrong with it! But its all good here..hehehehe got a plan for this new ride see, nya nya see, ;)

Dude musta gotten it for xmas, cause it wasnt taken care of, dirt everywhere, parts missing, it was in bad shape, but now that ive gotten it, heh heh heh look out.:cool:

Found a lot of KILLER tips and ideas for this awsome truck, wanted one for the longest, and now i have it.. look out track!

here i thought i was the only one that got shafted on buying a used gt........u sound exactly like me, wanted one, drooled at the low price, got it delivered...........then things went downhill.....
400$ later i have a beautiful truck with ALL of the parts....lol

[Austin GT]

these are action shots of our club race,let me know what ya think!:D :confused:

[violator757]

hey man the track looks good keep up the good work and keep your gt runnin also ;)

[Austin GT]

I need to know how to down-size some of my picture files so I can post pics.Anyone know how to make my attachments the right amount of bytes to meet forum specs? I would really appreciate it,I've got some nice action shots but the files are to big!!:mad: :confused: Oh yeah,violator757 ,thanx!! and you can bet your Associated on it;)

[violator757]

i would never bet my AE on anthying ill bet anyother car or truck but not my AE it has been to good to me lol
since i have had my gt i only stipped 2 spurs (my fault) and i broke a carrier arm thingy going up a 15 foot jump and im running a cheap 59 buck ofna .12s and it rocks now im looking for a bigger mill to run so give me some good ideas guys hows the megatech m-16 lmk any good info

p.s. im not into racing just bashing at the local bmx tracks

[atm92484_3]

Austin, try opening the pic in MS Photoeditor, then resizing the pic to the size or percent (btw Resize is under Image).

Vio, I don't have any experience with the M16 but it sounds like all of the M16 owners like theirs. Don't forget about Fantom engines either. Remember, you cannot go wrong with an O.S. IM me and we'll talk.

[EbayGTDisaster]

Originally posted by violator757
i would never bet my AE on anthying ill bet anyother car or truck but not my AE it has been to good to me lol
since i have had my gt i only stipped 2 spurs (my fault) and i broke a carrier arm thingy going up a 15 foot jump and im running a cheap 59 buck ofna .12s and it rocks now im looking for a bigger mill to run so give me some good ideas guys hows the megatech m-16 lmk any good info

p.s. im not into racing just bashing at the local bmx tracks


I have the M-16 in my gt and I keep up with my friend's novarossi .12 :D

[Austin GT]

test pics /thanx atm92484_3:D besides these next few i'll have more tomorrow.

[Austin GT]

can't wait for next weekend!!:D

[Austin GT]

this is my thrasher, but its as fast as it looks.Thanx to my big bro I can rip thru the track and look good 2. My daughter is giving her blessing to daddys truck. lol sorry for taking up so much space! :D :p

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

:( i my new rbx12 is shot after 13 tanks :mad: :mad: look here http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=75166

[Siro]

Hi, i wanna get some new shocks for my NMT and i think i am going to get the associated ones and i thought posting here would be a better idea instead of making another thread. I thought about getting the GT Team Built shocks as i THINK they are the same shocks as the ones that are sold as packs of eight for the t-maxx and heard nothing but praise about, if they are the GT Team Built shocks can you buy them in pairs? various sizes? part numbers? and are they a good shock??? other than that i would consider the FTGT Shocks which are PFTE coated i believe.... are those a better shock and how do they differ in price compared to the TB Shocks?

part no's would be so very kind
thanks

[atm92484_3]

Great pics Austin. That track looks pretty good.

Siro, I wouldn't get just the annodized shocks for offroad. Instead I'd reccomend those teflon ones.

Here are the links:
1.02 teflon coated shocks (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX2585&P=0)
1.32 teflon coated shocks (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX2584&P=0)

Use the 1.02s in the front and the 1.32s for the rear.

good luck

[Siro]

thanks, do you have a link to the TB shocks though or a price?! i need to know as i can get a rough sort of price then for the teflone ones, prices are alot different over here :(

[trxstr1961]

I just got a used RTR rc10gt, and found out a lot about it

1: it needs bearings in the tranny
2: outdrives r shot all to heck
3: needs a better chassis
4: needs a new body, rims and tires
5: should i run the metal spur thats on it., or the stock plastic one

Mill seems to have good compresion on it, so im going to run that for now:) Should i go with a diff rebuild or not at this point also, im going to be running this onroad, and thought about some striker2's for it with a set of chrome rims... the rims that came with it are toast... tires arent bad but will have to deglue them somehow??

Im getting a few items for it as i can:
New mip steering kit
the ofna linkage kit
return spring

Anything else that u might add will be helpful, im wanting this to be my "creme de la creme" truck!

[atm92484_3]

Trx welcome to world of GTs. If I were you, I wouldn't get the steering kit now; wait and replace some of the worn stuff and get a decent set of bearings (like Dynamite Red Seals).

Siro, the only shocks I can find that are less are the gold annoed ones.

1.02 Gold (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX2576&P=0)
1.32 Gold (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX2575&P=0)

[trxstr1961]

got a link to where i can find them at??:confused:

[ross]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
got a link to where i can find them at??:confused:


www.towerhobbies.com are a great shop and they sell everything including little things like screws and all the other stuff you need.

You should run a plastic spur gear because a metal one will wear your clutchbell out, plastic ones are also cheaper to replace.

I cant say if you need a diff rebuild because I cant see it. I would re-lube it and see how it goes.

The pro-line Road Hawgs are also a good onroad tyre.



hope this helped you.

[ross]

Ive heard alot about this Ofna Linkage, and alot people seem to have it / buying it.

After running yesterday off-road my linkage came off because of a small O clip. I wasnt that impressed with the whole of the linkage.

Is the Ofna linkage more durable than the stock one?

Are there any more advantages of it.


I was also thinking of getting Ballraced Steering.



thanks


ross

[Austin GT]

Does anybody know where to AE pros set-ups.I know its a novice inquiry but I'm becoming a weekly GT-class racer and I need the extra help.:confused: :D Thanx to anyone who can help!

[ross]

You can get set ups for your GT from the AE website, this is the direct link to the set ups page: http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/setup_sheets.htm#RC10GT


dont take offence but if you are a newbie dont spend to much time setting up your truck, spend more time practising your driving skills, a little set up though is sometimes necessary.


hope this helped u and good luck racing.



ross

[DR.GT]

Austin GT:

Heres the everywhere setup many of the pro's use.

front:

0* toe in
2* negative camber
Stock camber links
Stock tower and A arm mounts
#2 pistons
35 weight oil
silver springs
arms level

Rear:

4.5* toe in ( 3* mounts & 1.5* carriers)
2* negative camber
Stock camber links
Outside on tower and stock on arms
#1 pistons
30 weight oil
green springs
bones level
spacer to back on hub carriers(shortest wheelbase)

This should just about do it for everywhere...
enjoy!:)

[Austin GT]

Thanx for the set-up. I will have 1 day to tune my GT before Sundays race so I'll put it to the test. I'm sure you don't call yourself DT.GT for nothin.:D I'm going to buy a new motor soon,still deciding on either Rossi or O.S.(italian engines are the more dominant but I like O.S. for obvious reasons.:confused:

[Austin GT]

from Sundays race:D

[TRXboy]

Hey guys, heres my GT, havent shown a good pic of it in a while, not much has changed really....

http://imagep.webphotos.iwon.com//1000033719/1000033719_312200273247PM0.3476177.jpg

[atm92484_3]

Holy crap its in one piece! :eek: :eek: :D

[FTR]

well i found some cash so i am gin on a shoppin spree how does this sound



LXXH02 Associated Diff Rebuild Kit GT

1 8.59
LXSG14 Associated Titanium Hinge 10T/T2/GT

1 16.59
LXUX82 Associated RC10GT Upgrade Kit Non Pull Start

1 49.99
LX3329 Associated RC10GT Aluminum Screw Set

1 15.69
LXAX15 MIP Super Diff Rebuild RC10GT

1 9.99
LXMA03 Trinity Aluminum Tranny Brace 10GT

1 20.99
LXAFX4 Trinity Aluminum Heavy Duty Front Tube Mount RC10GT

1 23.99
LXWS63 Trinity RC10GT Rear Suspension Mounts

1 34.99
LXAX63 MIP Heavy Flywheel RC10GT

1 10.99
LX3129 Associated 4-40x5/16 Aluminum Socket Head Cap Scrws (4)

1 1.45
LXLZ67 HGI Spring Clamps Alloy Associated/HPI

2 9.49
LXEU83 RPM Associated Truck Rear Arms

1 9.49
LXEU88 RPM Associated Truck Front Arms

1 9.49
LXJV66 Pro Shock Bushings Associated

1 7.59
LXEW25 RPM Rear Clawz 6-Spoke Chrome T3

1 9.49
LXEW28 RPM Front Clawz 6-Spoke Chrome T3

1 9.49
LXDU11 Pro-Line Dirt Hawg 2.2 Front/Rear Truck

2 16.99
LX2962 Associated T2 Front Shock Strut Graphite

1 10.99
LXL601 HGI Aluminum Rear Bulkhead 10GT/DS

1 32.99
LXVE52 Trinity Blue Lightweight Countersunk Washers II

4 7.59
LXMA04 Trinity Aluminum Front Shock Tower 10GT

1 18.39
LXAFX3 Trinity Aluminum Universal Servo Mount RC10GT

1 18.39
LX3354 Associated Servo Mounts Gas Truck

1 2.39
LXL616 HGI Alloy Diff Nut Associated

1 9.49
LXLL17 Robinson Racing B3/T3 Blue Slipper Kit w/Pads Light

1 26.99
LXEX89 Robinson Racing Titanium Top Shaft Associated Stealth

1 16.59

[59HemiHearse]

FTR

ditch the slipper kit... it doesnt do jack, get lunsfords instead of AE, lunsford is garenteed for life, no aluminum screws!! aluminum screws will strip so easily it will just piss you off, and they will snap real quick from the vibration of a gas truck, RPM arms are really flexible, so if you race dont get them, they will kill handling and dont get aluminum towers, once or twice flipping without a body and they will be bent and once you bend it back it gets really weak, everything else seems good, just most of it is eye candy, not much for performance

[jgdvrs]

For anyone interested:
Have had my TB GT for about 2 months now (about 2 gal fuel) and the biggest gripes I have are the stock steering linkage, which seems to always work loose, and the stock brake , which I just could not keep in adjustment.
Installed MIP steering linkage: Results so far are what I had hoped...no loosening yet (couple of tanks on my very bumpy play track) Also installed the Crecenzi brake...which is a drum brake as opposed to the stock disk setup. Absolutely worth the 30 dollar price.

My two-cents

JD

[FTR]

where do i get the screws

[ttweedle]

Hey all, I just got myself a FTGT, with all the fixings for racing. I got this OFNA starter box RTR model. Well, I don't know if Im doing it right but what are the little knob things suppose to do? Does the truck sit on them or next to them for alignment purposes only. OFNA's Instructions(or lack of any) really sucks. I cant seem to get my OS cv-r to crank up. I charged the battery 12v gel cell, glo igniter etc. but the engine wont crank it acts like it wants to but it won't just run. I don't know if I have it too lean or rich. What is the suggested Mixture needle setting? The manual said to do this last, but I cant get the thing to start much less do any tweeking.... Sorry so long, but I really want to see this truck running....


Travis

[TeamCarnage]

Hemi Knows GT!!:)

[atm92484_3]

Tweedle, those 'nubs' are meant to help align the truck on the box. This is the same box I have; I'll post pics later of where my 'nubs' are if that will help. As for the CV-R, I'm running the same engine. I found that you need to loosen the plug to reduce compression when the engine is new, since (as you've found out) the box struggles to turn it over. Once its started, just make sure you retighten the glow plug. After about a gallon or so, the engine should be loose enough that you won't need to do this.

[Railman]

Tweedle, ATM is right. Just loosen the glow plug a little, & when it fires up, snug it with the igniter first, & when you remove the igniter, tighen wit the glow wrench.
As far as aligning the truck on the starter, just center the chassis flywheel cutout on the starter wheel, & mark the chassis location directly on the starter. Then install one post in the rear a arm so that the the pin is centered on one of the V webs in the arm. The rotation of the drive wheel will push the truck forward, so make the location of the alignment pin to the rear of the V in the arm. The other pin just needs to be on the side of the chassis, maybe 2/3rds of the way to the front. I like mine on the drivers side, but then I'm right handed, & I use my right hand to push the truck down on the starter. Another very important thing to do is to chambfer (file or grind) the front & rear of the flywheel cutout back at about a 45' degree angle. The newer thick chassis makes this a must to keep from chewing the starter wheel up.
Hope this all makes sense to you. If not let us know.
Joe

[speedydave]

I didn't have to bevel the hole like Railman was saying, but just to let you guys know, the Ofna True start(black) box's wheel was too thick to fit in the hole on my GT, so I had to cut it to make the wheel narrower. It works just fine now. :)

[ttweedle]

THanks alot guys, I will try this stuff out today.

Travis

[Austin GT]

i have to cut my crank-shaft down(on my new engine) so if i dont have cut-off nut i could just eyeball it (not to short of course) then trim if needed?HELP!:confused: first time doing it,so want to get it right.

[illbreakit]

167 pages? :eek: What happend?:confused: Was only 103 yesterday:rolleyes:

[ross]

Originally posted by illbreakit
167 pages? :eek: What happend?:confused: Was only 103 yesterday:rolleyes:

I was thinking the same thing. :confused: :confused: :confused:

[59HemiHearse]

they made it so there are only 20 posts per page instead of 40 (?) which should also make it faster

Austin DO NOT eyeball it... go to your lhs and buy a cutoff nut they are really cheap, either spen 75 cents now or spend 200 later on a new engine!!

and yes i know the GT ive raced it sonce it came out in 94 and i have a pre production model from summer 93 :)

[nitrobuggy]

Originally posted by ross


I was thinking the same thing. :confused: :confused: :confused:

i know

[TRXboy]

Read back a cuple of pages, this thread has been this way for a good week, Steve added the older RC10GT forum(notice the title change), much more information now.

[ritchies rc10gt]

well since my phone company messed up i know have a new email/instant message name.

Grandprix66455@aol.com

what is everybodies needle settings for an OS 15CV with a slide carb?i need an idea of where they should be and what temp do these engines usually like?

[ttweedle]

Well I have gotten 2 tanks into my truck. I have a guestion. I have a MIP temp gauge on my engine. but I couldn't get the engine Temp above 130 on it. I know its not as accurate as the laser gun models, but can it be that far off? or did I just not get it that hot. I didn't want to open it up, but I did want to get up to about 200 degrees at least 200-220 was my goal. Does running it really rich keep it cooled down this much? thanks


Travis

[tarvymoto]

What up Bro? give me a call tomorrow , and post some more of those pics if you race this weekend!!!

Tweedle , how long did you run it?And was it at the track or just back and forth in the street? After 2 tanks you can start lean it out an 1/8 of a turn or so( on the high end needle) each tank till it screams , but never go wide open for long drag races. Is the temp sensor in good contact w/ the head. Also if it is way rich and you are really babying it , it could be running at a low temp. You have to develop an ear for how to tune. You want the engine to "scream" but you don't want too high pitch . Duratrax has a great video on how to tune. You might find it on thier website. Associated's video tuning guide is decent too.

[trxstr1961]

I think my GT,and NDS would all look good in stainless steel screws.

You have a NDS to eh? so do i.:) have any tips for me?? im running bushings in it now with a o.s 12 cvx in it, MAN, is it quick:)

if u have pics, can i see your car??

[Austin GT]

Thanx for the tip. And if you looked at my pics posted you would see that my driving skillz are better than some, so when I ask for help on set-ups I only appreciate help on SET-UPs.:cool: no offense:D thanx anyway!

[ross]

Originally posted by Austin GT
Thanx for the tip. And if you looked at my pics posted you would see that my driving skillz are better than some, so when I ask for help on set-ups I only appreciate help on SET-UPs.:cool: no offense:D thanx anyway!


I wasnt saying that you were, i was saying "if" you were.

anyway, good luck, i hope you get a good set up and win some races.


ross

[ross]

Originally posted by ttweedle
Well I have gotten 2 tanks into my truck. I have a guestion. I have a MIP temp gauge on my engine. but I couldn't get the engine Temp above 130 on it. I know its not as accurate as the laser gun models, but can it be that far off? or did I just not get it that hot. I didn't want to open it up, but I did want to get up to about 200 degrees at least 200-220 was my goal. Does running it really rich keep it cooled down this much? thanks


Travis


are you sure its on the right unit? It could be 130*C and not 130*F. When talking about how hot engines run its about 200-220*F and I think the equalevent to that in *C is around the 130. I know it may sound a bit daft, but its the stupid things that are always the problem!!

Yeah but if you are breaking in and its really rich, it will run really cool and you are doing the right thing. Try putting your finger on the heatsink head, if you can leave it there without it hurting for about 20 seconds then its probaly the right temp on the MIP. But if you can only hold it there for 5 secs and then it hurts, its hotter.


hope this helped


ross

[ttweedle]

I was running it on the street in front of my house. Doing figure 8's, and short bursts along the straight. It was really rich, I would go 3/4 throttle and it would bog down to almost shutting off then it would gurgle back up, but its so rich it wont even think about screaming like the trucks at the track do. Ambient Temp outside was 55*. My starter box motors in my OFNA rtr box went up in smoke so I have to wait to finish my break in. I put in 1 reedy spec motor but the battery voltage melted the the endbell. OOPS! 12 volts isn't good for only one motor i guess. Hopefully they get me new ones before next weekend....

Thanks for all the help.

Travis

[tarvymoto]

If you burned out the starter box , you may need to take the engine out of the car and perfectly aline(sp) the flywheel cutout on the chassis w/ the bumper wheel(make sure it's lined up when the bumper platform is compressed to engage the flywheel). Use the ajustable nubs on the bumper platform to mark your spot. Then intsall the engine again. Also you want the bumper box to start up just before it comes in contact w/ the flywheel , so it has a little running start . Ususally when a bumper box gets cooked it's when it's rubbing on the chassis more than on the flywheel. Hope this helps

[Austin GT]

Hey Ross,I do appreciate your help,I had a few drinks last night.:D Anyway please don't mind me I just want to get dialed in for club races and as you can see I do welcome any tips. I have been getting much needed info from this forum so it all helps.Peace!:D :cool:

[williamsedw]

I'm running the .15 engine that comes stock on the RTR. I've heard that I can open up the header exhaust hole with a dremmel tool to help performance. What are some procedures to do this, and what advantage will I get?

[trxstr1961]

Man, did we get taken to the bank >:(
Paid $165 for a used RTR gt and what a pile we got,

I got it completely tore down and this is what i found i need:

1: A BATH , truck was totaly filthy
(DONE) looks alot better now :)
2: a decent set of bearings
3: A NEW BOD the one we got was trashed
4:a new set of dogbones: one was tweaked 90 degrees
Instead of this - ______- i found this - ------I :ekk:
5: maybe a new mill, havent got the one we got running yet
6: new wheels and tires for rear
7: a new radio setup for it

So, now where should i start:confused:

[atm92484_3]

TRXster, for the bearings check out either the Dynamite Red Seals if you're on a budget ($45) or a set of the AE bearings ($85ish). Also, make sure you get 3/16" axles and bearings in the rear since they are more durable than the 1/4"ers. Bodies, its up to you but I like the look and durability of the Proline truck bodies. Screw the dogbones; get 3/16" CVDs. See if the engine works, and for tires/rims, it all depends on what you're doing, but I like the Proline Dish rims. For radios, I'm a 3PDF fan with Hitec servos, but the PDF will run about $200.

If that quote about the stainless steel screws was from me, click on the WWW button and check out my picture page. It has NDS pics.

good luck

[Gokou]

Just have to point this one out...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1712107479

With all that aluminum, maybe it would better serve as a boat anchor? :p

I'd hate to even drive that truck... one small mishap and all those GPM parts would be tweaked beyond recognition. Gotta love the guy's priorities too... he had all that money to spend on aluminum, but the truck only has a Magnum Sport radio and a pullstart CV-X. :rolleyes:

I can finally drive my GT again this weekend (yay!) because I finally received my new charger, a MRC Super Brain 959. It took me almost a week to find a charger that fit my needs. All I wanted was a small peak charger that could charge NIMH receiver (and transmitter packs) that had both AC and DC power choices. Finding a charger that met all those requirements was a LOT harder than I thought! The Millenium is nice (but needs a power supply, total would have been around $200), and the new Reedy Quasar Pro is nice (but $200). Most of the other "cheap" chargers under $100 couldn't handle Nimh's, or the ones that could charge NIMH's didn't have a low charge rate (1 amp or under) for receiver packs. I didn't want to spend >$100 on a battery charger that is only going to charge receiver and transmitter packs. The MRC is small, cheap ($50) and works VERY well-- so, I'm guess I'm recommending it. Small, portable, AC/DC input, peak charging that works on NiCads and Nimh's, charge rates from .5-4.5 amps, all for $50. If you ask me, it's a hard act to beat. It also means I won't blow up receiver packs by charging them at 2.75 amps (as low as my old charger would go) :rolleyes:

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Gokou

With all that aluminum, maybe it would better serve as a boat anchor? :p

I'd hate to even drive that truck... one small mishap and all those GPM parts would be tweaked beyond recognition. Gotta love the guy's priorities too... he had all that money to spend on aluminum, but the truck only has a Magnum Sport radio and a pullstart CV-X. :rolleyes:

Hmmm possible former HPI driver??? :D

[Jwelch]

lol atm.
That NMT really soured you didn't it??:D

[trxstr1961]

yes that post was to u..:)

Im wanting to see your nds and what all u've done to it, send pics to me at: mwilson478@comcast.net
Give me a few ideas for mine for this summer :)

[atm92484_3]

LOL me??? Sour??? Never! ;) ...just upset I wasted $400 on that NMT and parts.

Trxstr, click the following button to see my RC pics.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/images/home.gif (http://community.webshots.com/user/atm92484)

[trxstr1961]

dude!! same as mine, mill and all :eek: just got the body for mine. just not sure what scheme to use yet;) what fuel r u using in yours:confused: im running 15% in mine, too quick for the bowling alley parking lot now! lol do u have a idea where i can get bearings for mine at?? if so, how much??

[atm92484_3]

I'm running 10% BT but I'm going to step up to the 20% BT I'm running in my Nitro TC3 once this gallon runs out. I've also upgraded the head to a MIP heatsink since those pics were taken (butt ugly, but cools really well and is only $30). For bearings, I'm using a mix of AEs in the tranny and some cheap-o Duratraxes on the axles. I'd reccomend the Dynamite Red Seals ($40 from Horizon) though since they are good bearings for a good price.

[TRXboy]

Seriusly gokou, the GPM parts are gunna get fried in a second with all that alumnium, screws are going to snap, hing-pins are going to bend. i LOVE all alumnium trucks....

[zorafex]

I installed the MIP CVD's and the MIP 4n1 clutch today. I did everything the instructions said to do, and I everything went very smooth.

Once I got them installed and everything back together, I cranked the engine.

Here is the "Problem", when I give it throttle everything turns but the wheels! Flywheel turns and spur.. ect..
but the wheel dont!

Also, when I put the brake on.. i noticed a different noise with the clutch..

im not sure if that was normal or not..

this is the RC10GT-rtr

anyone have any idea why this would be happening?

[atm92484_3]

Zora, make sure the pins in the axles that the wheels grip on are in and catching on the rim.

[speedydave]

Make sure your diff isn't too loose, the diff could be slipping, or the slipper clutch could be slipping.

[Railman]

My guess is that you took the spur gear assembly off, & the pin on the top shaft fell out. Either that or something else is missing on the spur/slipper assembly.
Joe

[tarvymoto]

what's up dude. Read Igozooms post on the NT forum and take some picks if you go to the track tommorrow

[zorafex]

okay thanks for all of the replies.. i dont have the car right now, so cant try anything :/

one more thing.. am i suppose to seperate the two shoes on the clutch like in this pic?

<img src="http://www.rc10gthobby.com/new/10clutch.jpg">


i didnt do that... didnt see in the instructions to do so. i just found this pic and thought i would ask.

if i was suppose to do this, would it have anything to do with my problems? if not, does it matter if i seperate it or not?

tia

[atm92484_3]

Thats the problem then. Its supposed to be two pieces so it can "open" and grip the clutchbell.

[ritchies rc10gt]

its an OS .15CVX Hyper.

it wont stay running.i replaced the fueuline,tank and glow plug.i even took it apart and clean and oiled everything.i put it back to factory settings after i put it back together.it kinda sounds like its running out of fuel.i dont know what temp its running,but i can hold my finger on the head about 30-40 seconds before it start to hurt.it will run great for a few minutes and then dies.right before it dies it sounds like its buzzing and not "popping"out the pipe.after it stalls its hard to start,but still has perfect compression.ive only run about 2 quarts of 20% blue thunder through it so far.ive tried richening it up and leaning it out.


thanx you may instant message me at this name GRANDPRIX66455

[trxstr1961]

I took my clutch apart, and found that my clutch does not have any springs on it and am wondering if thats the way its suppose to be?? my mill is the stock ae.15

[atm92484_3]

If its the stock clutch (white shoes that are about 1/4 of a circle), then its not meant to have springs.

[King Nothing]

Hi,

I am thinking of getting some new tires to replace my old stock ones. What would be some good tires for a pretty hard packed dirt surface? Also, what compound should I get? Thanks.

[ross]

Originally posted by King Nothing
Hi,

I am thinking of getting some new tires to replace my old stock ones. What would be some good tires for a pretty hard packed dirt surface? Also, what compound should I get? Thanks.

Proline Bowties for rear

Proline Blades for front


If you dont mind them lasting a little shorter and you want more grip then go for the soft compound.




ross

[King Nothing]

Hey, thanks for the reply. I forget which is softer, M3 or M2? Also, they are both XTR compound, right? Oh and one more thing, how do the blades work? it seems as though the knobs wouldn't help turning, but I've never seen/used them. Thanks again.

[ross]

Originally posted by King Nothing
Hey, thanks for the reply. I forget which is softer, M3 or M2? Also, they are both XTR compound, right? Oh and one more thing, how do the blades work? it seems as though the knobs wouldn't help turning, but I've never seen/used them. Thanks again.

M3 is softer

You could use either blades or edges. i dont think the fronts matter so much on the front unless you are running on extreme surfaces such has grass or wet mud.



ross

[Austin GT]

CALLING ALL DRIVERS!!If you think your good we've got a track that will send you back to the bench or back to the hobbyshop:D It's my opinion that this track is the off-road racers wet-dream or worst nightmare. These pics don't even even tell the whole tale but HOLY F*@!$H!T

[Austin GT]

Yes that is a mod-B3 soaring over that marshalls head. COME AND GET SOME! if you think ya can handle it :D

[Austin GT]

All passengers please buckle you ass to the chasis!This is Paul Tibido's mod buggy in both pics(he's a local racer that should be sponsered because he is one of the best out here!)Its that little spec left of the pole. (I hope you guys dont mind me getting a little daft with the pics but I take more every week and begining this weekend it's gonna be Saturday night. So I'll have some great action shots.) :cool:

[tarvymoto]

LMAO!!!

[ross]

Austin GT,

wow! If I ever come to the US, I coming to your track. That looks sick! I dont care if I knacker every screw and joint on my truck.


Good Luck racing there, i wish i was.



ross

[OldskoolGT]

Someone was asking about the tank o-ring several pages back IIRC. I found that a size #13 o-ring in the plumbing section of Lowes' Home Improvement Center seems to be a perfect replacement. I also soaked the new o-ring in fuel for several hours, and it was not affected. And it only cost $.25.

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

if i put the receiver and servos in ballons,can i run my rc10gt in the rain? its not raining heavily just drizzling.

[atm92484_3]

LOL Austin. How many cars actually finish races at that track?

RoadRunner, its up to you but I'd reccomend against it. As fun as it is, it really sucks when your electronics get screwed up. If you still want to, I'd reccomend more than balloons (I've found them to leak); try dipping the servos in that liquid grip for tools and installing a receiver box (either the stock T-Maxx one or the new Trinity one).

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

how do you take of the wheel? i unscrewed the nut but the wheel seems to be stuck. :mad:

[ritchies rc10gt]

give the wheel a good yank and they will pop off

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

has anyone broken something while trying to take off the wheel?

i yanked on the wheel and it came off, jeez what a pain it is.

[ritchies rc10gt]

never broke anything yet.make sure you give it a good tap to seat it all the way on the axle.i have stripped a few wheels by not tapping it on

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

wooohooo i broke my first rc10gt part today, damn spur gear stripped. is there a aluminum spur gear i can upgrade to? or should i get a machined spur gear? thanks

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

i just bought a rrp steel spur gearat my LHS. 30 bucks :eek:

[atm92484_3]

See if your LHS will take that steel gear back. I had one and all it did was wear out on me, eventhough the mesh was adjusted correctly. What I'm using, and would reccomend to anyone else, would be one of the machined plastic spur gears by Robinson Racing. They are like $6.50 but they last almost forever.

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

lol its already installed. but i'll go but the machined one just in case.

[wannabee]

Is there a way to unglue a tire from the rim? I cracked my front rim on Sunday and the tires are still in good shape.

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

put the wheel and tire in boiled water

[Big Wig]

Hello to all! I put the GT away the night before Thanksgiving and I haven't used it since... it's not exactly GT weather here ;) Sooo, I haven't stopped in here in ages! I'm not surprised how much this thread has grown though :D

I have some questions and I'm sure I could find the answers if I had the 10 - 12 hours it would take to read through all these posts LOL Here's what I have going on:

I just ordered a new FT GT to replace last years truck... the old one will be a spare or a parts truck. I plan to take these items from the old GT to use on the new one: .15cv-x, Robinson hardened steel clutch bell and spur gear, MIP 4 in 1 clutch, Hitec 5925 steering servo, Novak XXL Rx, Trinity Rx pack.

I also have some items in mind that I'd like to purchase for the new truck and this is where I need the help. I'd like to know a part # and/or where I can find these items:

Cresenzi (no idea how to spell that!) brake system
Trinity Rx box
MIP ball bearing steering (what servo saver should I use?)
complete set of RPM ball cups
RPM body mounts


I also plan to get this stuff but I think I'll be able to find it ok:

back plate for the OS .15cv-x (switching to non- pull start)
Ofna throttle linkage kit
Hitec 5625 throttle/ brake servo

How does this set up sound? Any opinions on the stuff mentioned are very appreciated.

thanks in advance for the help!
GT's rule!

Jay

oh yeah, one more thing:

I've been using Hitec servos and Ofna servo horns for awhile... which adapter is meant to be used on Hitec because none of them seem to fit right?

thanks

[Jwelch]

Yea, I just pulled my GT out of the closet last week. I hadn't run the thing except for in 30 degree weather and the performance sucked arse then. Now, it's kicking bootay and running at a cool 220. I love this thing. I too am planning on getting some stuff for the new season. Most notably, the FTGT conversion kit, because at heart mines still and RTR. What bugs me thought, is that I'd need to buy a new body, cuz the FT chassisis longer. this would suck a ton, cuz I just painted a nice new GMC Sierra that I got for X-mas... Could I shoehorn it on to the FT? Originally, I bought an FT body by mistake, and it was considerably bigger than the RTR body, and wouldn't fit the RTR chassis. I'll be bummed if I need a new body.

-John

[Big Wig]

ok, last question LOL

is everyone running the stock fuel tank? I seem to remember people were switching over to something different.

thanks
Jay

[ritchies rc10gt]

i think most if not all of has switched to the reverse fill tank.it makes adjusting the low end needle a heck of alot easier providing the needle is in the front.


Bodies

i have a RTR and been using the proline bodies with no trouble.cant you just elongate the pin holes that extra 1/4 inch?

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

RC10GT RULES!!!

[Jwelch]

Ritchie, do you use the FT chassis with RTR bodies? Thats really what I'm asking. Thanks.

[trxstr1961]

you think so eh?? :)
try again, i still have a old tank with the nipple at the top gonna trade that in soon tho for the new one :cool:

if anyone has aol im, let me know and i can show you the tank im running :rolleyes:

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

delete

[atm92484_3]

I'm still running the old school, low-end needle blocking, rear opening fuel tank.

Trx, most of us have AIM. I'm atm92484. Check the profiles and see of others have IM names posted.

[Austin GT]

just thought i'd show ya!(cleaning my GT):p.i want a larger reverse-fill tank.anyone have a clue?:confused:

[ross]

I noticed that my tank wouldnt mount, i have the low end needle blocking one that somone said was old skool, my GT is brand new, well January. Is there a better tank out there, that can be mounted like Austins? Also it must be a direct drop in. Which one is that Austin?


thanks

ross

[Big Wig]

I'm running a JR Z250 standard servo for throttle/brake in my GT right now and it does a mediocre job at best. I will be installing the Crescenzi drum brake in my new FT GT and I'd like to know what I should run for a servo? Does a standard servo do the trick with the drum brakes? I had planned to get a Hitec 5625 for throttle duty (digital, 97 oz/in and .13 sec)... what do you think of that servo?

Thanks
Jay

[ross]

Originally posted by Big Wig
I'm running a JR Z250 standard servo for throttle/brake in my GT right now and it does a mediocre job at best. I will be installing the Crescenzi drum brake in my new FT GT and I'd like to know what I should run for a servo? Does a standard servo do the trick with the drum brakes? I had planned to get a Hitec 5625 for throttle duty (digital, 97 oz/in and .13 sec)... what do you think of that servo?

Thanks
Jay


yeah that seems a good servo for throttle and breaking, just get one thats quick, torque is not so important for the throttle and brake.



ross

[DR.GT]

Big Wig:

The Hitec servo you want to use will work great.I use the 5945 for throttle brake and 5925 for steering. I disagree with Ross though, as torque is very important in a throttle servo for constant long runtime use (long mains). A low torque servo will also give up the ghost a lot sooner. 90% of the servo failure problems in gas cars/trucks are in the throttle/brake servos, not the steering. The speed does not have to be ballistic but the torque should be strong enough to handle constant abuse from the throttle to brake movement. Also be sure to set your end point adjustments properly or you"ll end up blowing that new servo before its time.

:)

[atm92484_3]

Ross, AE hasn't started including the new tanks in the GT kits yet; only with the Nitro TC3s. Austin has the new, reverse fill tank from AE that was designed for the Nitro TC3. Its part number 7721 and it is a direct fit.

[CGV]

ATM- Mine came with the new tank and i got mine like 3-4 months ago

[Leinzey]

Does anyone know where to get the Trinity Receiver Box from? I'm looking to make an order from Stormer soon, so I'd prefer to get it from them. Thanks.

[59HemiHearse]

Big Wig:

I run the cresenzi brake system in my GT, i use a standard servo, thats all it takes, i used a high torque for a while but i noticed it made it lock up waaaaay to easily, standard to me is just fine

[ross]

Thanks ATM.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Jwelch
Ritchie, do you use the FT chassis with RTR bodies? Thats really what I'm asking. Thanks.



im still using the RTR chassis.whats the diference between the RTR and FT bodies?i noticed my RTR body was uglier than the proline bodie that i have been buying.right now im running an HPI Nitro Rush F350 body cuz it looked cool and im tired of wrecking my racing bodies when i just bash in the backyard or in the street

[speedydave]

As far as I know the FT bodies are slightly longer to accomodate the new, longer FT chassis. I have the FT chassis and a PL Sierra body, and it actually seems a little long. Either that, or someone drilled the holes wrong! (I got the body with the truck, and the truck was used...barely).

[ritchies rc10gt]

im running the PL chevy body on mine.in order for it to fit right it has to cover my front bumper.

[trxstr1961]

I have finally got to look at the mill in my truck and found out something....the carberator arm( thing that the linkage hooks to, can rotate 360 degrees:eek:
What causes this to happen, and is it still usuable:confused:

[Railman]

Trxtr, Just tighten the nut on the arm! It's happend to most of us at one time or another. It's a good way to have a runaway!
If the nut isn't loose, then the idle screw is sheared, or missing, but that's very doubtfull.
Joe

[ross]

TIP: On your stock linkage there is really weak part of it. The small 'O' shaped clip that holds the rod guider to the servo horn. It will easily come off when your doing some hardcore offroading and if your not using a TRS then it will cause a "runaway". The way to get around it is to use Traxxas part no. 3180 which is a rod guider with a thread on it so instead of where the little 'O' used to go, there is now a nylon locknut, which will never come off. The bag contains a 2 rod guides and 2 locknuts, so your have a spare set.


hope this helped



ross

[CyberISda]

I have RC10GT RTR and i want to upgrade my rear axle using this type "CVD KIT W/1/4 INCH AXLE:RC10T,GT (MIP1008)".

Is this going to work?

:confused:

[chachi]

after much deliberation, i just ordered a gt rtr. i have heard nothing but glowing praise for that truck. it is due to arrive next week. i can't wait. i am new to the nitro world and am curious what tips everyone has for a newbie.

1) is there anything in particular i should know?

2) are there any tricks to make my truck perform even better?

3) i have heard many different theories on engine break-in. any tips?

4) in terms of set-up, is there anything for the gt that i should do that is not mentioned in the video/instructions?

5) what else do i need other than fuel, a glow plug starter, and glow plug?

6) what sort of maintenance should i do?


thanks for any help you can provide.

[atm92484_3]

Hope these answers help:

1. Read the manual (plenty of good info) and check the screws and whatnot and make sure they are tight.
2. Get some bearings, a MIP Clutch, and some Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gears.
3. Its an ABC engine so use the break-in described in the January 2002 RC Nitro (This is the abridged version, but its basically a matter of getting the engine running and setting the needle so the engine isn't 2 stroking and driving around for about 3 minute intervals and making sure the engine is between 200 and 230 degrees. Drive until you've reached about 35 minutes of run-time; more time won't hurt though.)
4. I haven't seen the video but the car comes with the camber and toe in along with the shocks set from the factory, so you really don't need to do anything.
5. Thats about it but I'd reccomend some extra glow-plugs and after-run oil.
6. Just clean the truck off after a day's run and put after-run oil in the engine and turn it over. Also make sure the batteries are still good; run aways suck but AE including a throttle return spring does help a lot.

Other than this, welcome to the GT World. Once you get the truck, feel free to ask any questions you might have.

Cyber, yes that will work but I wouldn't reccomend it. Buy four 3/8" x 3/16" bearings and get the 3/16" CVDs. The bearings that go with the 1/4" axles have a reputation for blowing up since their balls are so small and cannont handle the load of a nitro engine. If you don't have a full set of bearings, get a set that has the 3/16" bearings for the rear axles.

Ross, great tip; I've had that happen a few times. I've also found that getting another of the golden wheel collars used on the linkage along with a 4-40 x 3/16" button head screw (ones that hold the spur gear on), and putting the screw through the arm, then screwing and CAing the wheel collar on the top, so the linkage can still slide through. (Its kind of hard to explain online)

CGV, I guess AE starting including them then and the trucks that still have the old tanks are just old stock.

[chachi]

thanks for the tips atm92484_3.

how much of a difference do the upgrades make (i.e. bearings, a MIP Clutch, and some Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gears)? should i upgrade right away, or use the truck as is until i get used to tuning and driving it? eventually i do want to race it on a recreational level.

[ross]

bearings are a definate must, the clutch and the spur gear arent so important. but a good set of bearings will improve the truck alot.



ross

[Planet-X]

I just bought a Dynamite .12spd(ps, universeral crank, losi) from my lhs. I asked them if it would work with my GT(rtr) and they said yes.....Once I get home, I notice the crankshaft on the dynamite is threaded, while the one on my .15 ae is not...which means I can't put the little gear doohickeys on...

[atm92484_3]

Planet, look in your manual for the part number for the appropriate clutchnut. This, once screwed onto the crankshaft, will provide a place to mount the clutch. You'll need to cut the shaft down on that engine though since its a standard shaft and the GT requires a short shaft. While you're looking up part numbers, find the number for the cutoff nut (its probably in the same section as the clutch nut). For more info on cutting the shaft, refer to the manual.

*just found the numbers. It is 7602 for the clutchnut for Dynamite engines and 7620 for the cutoff nut. Check out page 21 for info on cutting the shaft.

Chachi, I listed the spur since the AE spur is the common first piece to go and the RRPs are great upgrades. The clutch will allow the engine a more consistent and more tunable engaugement.

[RoadRunnerSpeed]

i accidently cut my servor and battery switch wires. can i just repalce the wires? i dont see why i have to buy a new servor, theres got to be a way i can put new wires. anyone knows how?

[Planet-X]

Hey atm...can I not use the clutchnut off of my ae engine? I've tried taking it off, but I think its on there pretty good. And why does my old ae engine have a large flywheel and my new dynamite doesn't have one at all........in other words..how do I install the flywheel from my ae onto my dynamite?!

[ritchies rc10gt]

you need to get a clutch nut like atm said he also gave the part numbers.you can take a pair of pliers and a cloth and grip the flywheel with them with the cloth between so you dont dig the flywheel up or buy another flywheel.no engine comes with a flywheel,you need to use your old one or buy a new one.you will be very happy with that dynamite as long as its broken in and taken care of.i ran 2 of the SPD's and never had a problem with them.

[King Nothing]

Hey, I seem to have lost my GT manual when moving, and I need to know how tight the diff needs to be. Thanks

[atm92484_3]

RoadRunner, buy an aileron extension thats for your brand of radio (meant for airplanes to extend the wires). Open the servo and unsolder the old pieces of wire, making sure to note which color goes where. Now cut off the female plug on the aileron extension, strip the wire, and solder it in place, making sure the colors go to the right places. Voila! -fixed for under $5.

King, the manual reccomends starting the diff from 1/8 of a turn out, from when the spring is compressed.

[kbright26]

I've had my GT for about 4 months now and Yesterday I finally broke my first part. I love this thing I was letting my 4 yr old drive it in an open field and he jumped it about 4 time with it landing on it side and all that broke was one of the dogbones. So since its torn apart I'm putting in the MIP clutch and the cresenzi brake system. Play again tonight.:D

[Austin GT]

This is my brother's truck flying high on one of the many big kickers!(this is also a crossover section)We've been breaking ***** along with everyone else.(thank GOD for spare parts)If you can drive, the track is outstanding.:p

[trxstr1961]

:eek: WHOA!! thats one wicked a$$ jump! bet thats alot of fun to race on:D our club here has speed bumps for jumps:rolleyes: wish they put jumps in like yours

[speedydave]

Wow! This truck rocks! I went racing for the second time today. There were 11 entries in sportsman 1/10 gas truck, so 6 in the A-Main. I qualified 3rd in the A-Main, which is a 15 minute race. I was in 3rd for most of the race, until I eventually caught up to the 2nd place guy and overtook him. I stayed in 2nd for a while, and then it happened. The first place guy either broke, or flamed out and couldn't restart. I took the lead and stayed there, and that's where I finished. What a race! This truck ROCKS! I will definitely be racing gas a lot more often.

-Dave

[topnotch77]

Just joining the forum. Slipper question. How tight should I make it? I'm doing mostly backyard bashing and a little street running. Thanks.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by topnotch77
Just joining the forum. Slipper question. How tight should I make it? I'm doing mostly backyard bashing and a little street running. Thanks.

try the stock setting and either tighten or loosen it till you like the way it feels.i run mine tighter than stock

[rrip20]

Does anyone know the part num. for a single mip shiney dogbone I bent one and need to replace. Also what onfa linkage do you guys use.

[atm92484_3]

The number for a pair (can't buy them separately) of CVD bones is 1162. Tower does not have them in stock though but the stock ones are part number 7379 (just incase you don't want to wait for the Shinys).

[Big Wig]

rrip20,

I bend those all the time! Why not just bend it back?

[ritchies rc10gt]

now that my truck is almost new again,i bcrashed hard and broke the rear bulkhead :D .i was jumping the speedbumps in front of my house,i hit one at full throttle and full speed.it went upcame dome sideways and cartwheeled and end over end for about 15 feet.it landed on its wheels,i thought everything was ok cuz ive crashed harder than that and broke nothing.then i noticed my wheels flopping side to side,i thought i blew another bearing.i looked at it and seen it was a broken bulkhead.its better to break a $3.50 bulkhead than blow a $6.00 set of bearings.oh well my new nieghbors loved it and thought it was funny.i guess firing up a nitro R/C is a good way to meet your new nieghbors! :D :cool:

[Skateboarder]

Had a blast this weekend, Finnaly drove my gt with my friend with his T-maxx. He thought his T would blow my gt away until we drag raced. He took off faster because I had the wrong setting on my mip clutch, but I caught up really fast, and accidently hit him in the rear which caused him to flip, then I flew by.
Anyway, After 2 tanks my pull started started to slip. Ive heard that this happens because of running richt, is this true?
Thanks

[Railman]

RichiesGT, Buy the RPM rear bulkhead. In my opinion it's by far the best GT part made by RPM. They cost a few bucks more than a stock one, but are near indestructable. We've broken stock ones, but never an RPM.
Joe

[TRXboy]

i love back flips.

http://imagep.webphotos.iwon.com//1000033719/1000033719_3242002103922PM0.1827051.jpg

as for the RPM bulk head, its strong, really strong, i did go threw 2 of them tho and eventualy bought an HG bulk(wich i think i bent today)

Heres my question, All you guys running the MIP cluch, do you have issues with it "sticking" when it gets warmed up? Mines been doing that latly(makes the truck seem liek direct drive), im trying to figure out if i needa new 1 or if i can simply fix it. Thanks.

good job dave

[earnhardtjr]

I have been slow about gettng my GT ready for the season, I have 10 days left, but I was installing my CV-R and I needed to tighten the clutch nut. Well I had read about this and never tired it but I did today and it worked out nice. I put the header on, put on the air filter, and put the piston at bottom center, filled it full