Associated RC10GT Forum v5.0 [Archive] - Page 2

Wallis Racing

11-16-2002, 11:40 PM

Hey again,
Just one more question:)
the age old question of tires. I want the softest, gripy-est, sticky-est best-est tires there are. 2.2inch truck tires of course. life span is not an issue. please help. seeing as proline is about the only company that makes good tires, i was looking on their site and am thinking that the 'SPEED HAWGS 2.2 TRUCK PRO1080' are my best bet. anyone else have an opinion of onroad tires?

right now i am currently using bald M2 bowties on the road, and they are sick, LOL. after about 20secs they are red hot and hardly ever break traction, so if you guys cant recomend any good on-road tires, then i will prolly get some M3 bowties, wear them out in the dirt, then use them for on-road action. but i would prefer some proper on-road tires.

thanks,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

ross

11-17-2002, 05:17 AM

Originally posted by Railman
Pro3, & Ross,
The Nitro article that Pro3 rerfered to, shows an sg crank in the pictures of the engine components, but the picture of the GT is with a std crank. It's easy to tell because of the shorter shaft, & the E-clip holding the clutch on. Just thought you might need to know.;)
Joe

It maybe that they cut the SG crank down and then used the std clutch nut, which would mean they did have to use the e-clip. I have sent SteveP a PM asking him which type of crank they used in a GT. I cant see why a SG crank wont work in a GT it it will work in a NTC3. You may have to buy a few bits but other than that........

Wallis Racing,

I use Proline Road Hawg for onroad and they are excellent, very grippy, I got them at a very good price too. Also look at the Proline Road Rage, never used these but they look good. Also someone makes truck slicks so you could probaly get some soft, sticky versions of them, I think the company was called Panther.

Ross.

Wallis Racing

11-17-2002, 06:11 AM

Thanks ross,
I think i will go the road hawgs cause they look wicked:)

i have seen the panther tires, but from what i heard on the HPI forum before it closed they are very hard, and even the soft slicks are quite hard. duratrax make slicks too, but i hear they are like rock as well.

Making my 500aus order from stormer as i type.
I'm getting all RPM stuff, MIP stuff, proline stuff. RRP stuff and some AE spares. as well as those wicked blue chrome rims that will get teamed up with some paddles and ribs for dune action!!!!

anyways,
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

rocknbil

11-18-2002, 12:41 PM

Originally posted by Railman
rokinbill,
It's really pretty staightforward. The farther you can power down a straight, the faster your going to get to the next turn......

Interesting . . . can't wait for this damnable Oregon rain to let up so I can give it a shoT1 THX

Keiger

11-20-2002, 11:26 PM

Ok I have striped out 2 arm already with my new HI tech servo Its got 70 torke. Should I use a metal arm or just losen up my servo saver.

jnegrx

11-21-2002, 01:46 AM

Keiger
It looks like you are using the wrong servo arm. If you have a Hitec servo make sure you are using a servo arm forHitec .
Count the teeth on the servo and make sure that the arm has the same number.
Also the servo saver must be free enough so it does its job or you risk a broken servo. You are lucky if your servo arm broke and your servo still works because the servo arm took all or most of the force from the impact. If you put an AL arm the you will break the servo.
I would losen the servo saver so that it takes away most of the force.

ross

11-21-2002, 02:39 AM

I use the optional aluminium, ballraced steering bellcranks which has no servo saver on them, I still use a standard servo arm I just cut down the red cross that comes in the hitec servo boxes and I havent had any probs with breaking servo's. Although i have stripped a arm once.

I have tried using a servo saver, but i hardly have any steering, somepeople said that the servo saver i used was to small and that i should try a bigger one because its stronger.....

Ross.

Keiger

11-21-2002, 09:31 AM

Originally posted by jnegrx
Keiger
It looks like you are using the wrong servo arm. If you have a Hitec servo make sure you are using a servo arm forHitec .
Count the teeth on the servo and make sure that the arm has the same number.
Also the servo saver must be free enough so it does its job or you risk a broken servo. You are lucky if your servo arm broke and your servo still works because the servo arm took all or most of the force from the impact. If you put an AL arm the you will break the servo.
I would losen the servo saver so that it takes away most of the force.

It's the right arm. I just think I had the servo saver on the truck cranked all the way down. I will loosen that up and see what happens. Thanks Keiger

rocknbil

11-21-2002, 12:23 PM

Yes, loosening the servo saver will help, but it does sound like the screw on the servo head is coming loose. It only has to be a little loose to wreak havok.

SykoR4c3r

11-21-2002, 06:20 PM

DANG LOTTA STUFF... someone should compile it and make a faq or somethin like that.. id love to save the whole 229 pages on my puter but id take to long,,,

Keiger

11-21-2002, 11:00 PM

After looking closer today at the servo I think I striped the post on the servo. I had the servo saver screwed down tight.
Is there an after market saver that works better on the GT

one_mean_rc10gt

11-22-2002, 02:55 AM

When using the rc10gt crowd pleaser body do you need different body mounts than the stock ones? I currently have the RPM body mounts with a stock body and just finished painting my new crowd pleaser body and noticed I might need longer body mounts.

Thanks,
One_Mean_RC10GT

one_mean_rc10gt

11-22-2002, 03:14 AM

Looks Like I May Tackle The Job Of Making A FAQ For The RC10GT Ferom All Of The Current Posts.

Within A Few Weeks!!!!

rocknbil

11-22-2002, 12:20 PM

Originally posted by Keiger
After looking closer today at the servo I think I striped the post on the servo. ....

Keiger that's probably because it worked it's way loose one time too many.

Your best bet here is to get a metal gear servo and keep the stock servo saver loose enough to slip on hard impact. Even with those you have to check every now and then to make sure it's coming loose, but the worst you'll strip is the servo horn and we've all got a million of those. :^P

Originally postedd by one_mean_rc10gt
When using the rc10gt crowd pleaser body do you need different body mounts than the stock ones?

Not really sure on this particular body but it's common to run into this, presuming you mean the back ones - just get some front body posts and put them on the back mount pads.

If it's the front ones you'll have to do something custom.

Railman

11-22-2002, 11:58 PM

Just thought I'd share my latest Gt addition:
It's a 3mm thick T-6 "Team Blue Star" direct replacement chassis.
It just came today, & it looks good. It weighs in at 1 1/2 oz more than the stock pan, but I used to run about 3/4 oz in the front anyway. Between elimimating the 3/4 oz lead, & using the 700 mah AAA nmh bat pack I'm building, it should net less weight than before. I should end up with a good weight balance, much less flex, & a very low center of gravity. The worst case scenario is that I may have to add a little weight to the rear, but I doubt it. Maybe I'll try some pictures later.:)
Joe

ritchies rc10gt

11-23-2002, 01:07 AM

well since winters coming soon and i just bought a Monster Pirate Dominator for myself and an RC10T3 for my girlfriend my GT is going into retirement for awhile.while its in retirement im gonna do a lot of upgrading and replacing bad parts.gonna get the FT chassis,OS.15CVR,all new bearings,better servos,all new tranny gears and all new diff/thrust balls.anything else i sould replace or upgrade?

DustinAdams

11-23-2002, 06:00 AM

feel free to send me all that old stuff u dont wants, including the engine u should replace it to :D

ross

11-23-2002, 06:04 AM

Im after some new bearings for the rear hubs has there is alot of play in them and a couple of them dont spin and freely has they should.

Does anyone have any reccomendations on good bearings? Or should I just buy the bog standard ones that my LHS sells?

And, could my prob with the play in the rear wheels be to do with worn hubs their selves or is it just the bearings?

Thanks

Ross.

one_mean_rc10gt

11-23-2002, 07:19 AM

Go with these ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU78&P=7 ) rear hub carriers and bearings. The bearings are larger and can handle more abuse.

one_mean_rc10gt

ross

11-23-2002, 09:05 AM

Originally posted by one_mean_rc10gt
Go with these ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU78&P=7 ) rear hub carriers and bearings. The bearings are larger and can handle more abuse.

one_mean_rc10gt

Do you know what degree the hubs are? Also do they do a 3/16 bearing version?

Thanks alot

Ross.

atm92484_3

11-23-2002, 05:15 PM

Those hubs are 0 degrees.

ritchies rc10gt

11-23-2002, 09:25 PM

Originally posted by DustinAdams
feel free to send me all that old stuff u dont wants, including the engine u should replace it to :D

do you need some parts?im gonna get all new spare parts for it so ill have a bunch of good used stuff ill sell dirt cheap(maybe even give it away) or trade for some parts for any of my trucks

one_mean_rc10gt

11-23-2002, 10:51 PM

Same here I am replacing all of my suspension componets with RPM stuff and 90% of the other stock items. All of them are in great shape I just wanted to spend some money :D and make it tough since I only bash. If anyone needs anything shoot me an email @ one_mean_rc10gt@hotmail.com and I will tell you if I have it and the price.

Thanks

Wallis Racing

11-24-2002, 06:52 AM

Speaking of RPM,
Here is a list of all the stuff i have ordered from stormer and tower. I ordered it last sunday(17th) so it should be here in the next few days:
GT stuff (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com/GTstuff.htm)

Cant wait till it all shows up, then my GT will be going wicked! for a little while anyway, LOL

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

Keiger

11-24-2002, 12:56 PM

Will this engine work in the GT?
Also where is there info. on the different carbs, E, ER, J, C, etc.

atm92484_3

11-24-2002, 01:13 PM

Yes the 12 TR will work on the GT but you may need to cut the shaft depending on what version you get (you'll want either the standard or shortshaft version). The 10J and 10M carbs are the only carbs available for the TR (those other ones you listed are too small and meant for the CV/CV-R line of engines). The only different between the M and J carbs is the M is a rotary carb and the J is a slide carb.

Keiger

11-24-2002, 01:19 PM

I have a 15cv-rx that I have taken off the pull start and start it with a drill.
First start of the day it fires right up and runs like a champ. And as long as I keep gas in it I can run a gallon through it and its perfect.
The problem is if it runs out of gas or it dies (form being upside down) the day is pretty much over as far as getting it to restart.
I have tried everything.
Changed glow plugs.
Resealed all fitting.
Made sure glow starter is working.
I run a temp. gauge and its not too hot.
Checked the mixed setting.

I am not sure if the altitude here is most of my problem I live at 8500 feet and have a full blowen off road track at the house (100 foot stright away, LOL). I did run the motor in my NTC3 when on vacation at sea level and the thing would start every time and anytime I wanted it to. Anyone else have this much problem with an OS?
Thanks Keiger

sosidge

11-24-2002, 04:21 PM

...has dimples in it to fit the standard body mounts on a long-wheelbase (i.e. not early or RTR) GT.

It's a really nice fitting shell, low, with one side flared out slightly to clear the pipe.

Here's a side view of mine...

http://www.sosidge.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/2872.jpg

Shady

11-24-2002, 07:06 PM

well i now have a ftgt as a spare to go with my nt and was wondering what are some good hop ups for it and things that it needs

atm92484_3

11-24-2002, 08:29 PM

The only thing GTs really need is a MIP clutch.

speedydave

11-24-2002, 09:03 PM

Lookin good, sosidge! I've been thinking about picking up a Crowd Pleazer body when I thrash the Sierra I've got now. I used to think the Crowd Pleazer was ugly, but I must admit, it's growing on me!

cryptonik420

11-25-2002, 10:24 AM

I'm wondering if anyone else out there has done this modification to thier OS CV. I had an old Paris Dished .12 engine and unfortunately in an accident the one of the motor mounts tore off the side of the engine causing a gaping hole to appear where the mount used to be! Anyway, i went and purchased a new OS .12 CV. After the initial break-in period, I noticed that this engine just didn't have the ooomph of the .12 PD. I was thinking, "What the heck..." and swapped in the old piston and ported sleeve of my .12 PD. OMG! This is the single best thing that I have ever done to any of my engines! For some reason, this dished piston is what just totally helps out the power - in the low all the way to top end - If you have one of these old .12 PD engines, give it a try in your OS .12 and see what results you get out of it. Tell me if you see the gains in performance that I have. So far I've run 3 gallons of fuel through it and it still runs like a bat out of heck! (explicit lyrics removed for the children here).

Have fun and happy modifiying.http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/37/37507/folders/19810/266567rd10gtweb2.jpg

cryptonik420

11-25-2002, 10:29 AM

BTW here's a link to my photo gallery. It's got some pics of my GT, my USA-1 NC, and my friends RC10T. Something tells me these cars were built with durability in mind - these cars are over 10 years old!

http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=331&folderid=19810&groupid=37507&folderview=thumbs&ck=

4star

11-25-2002, 11:48 AM

just a real quick question :o

does the RC10GT RTR come with a glow plug already installed or do i need to buy one :confused: :confused:

rocknbil

11-25-2002, 01:02 PM

Originally posted by cryptonik420
.....swapped in the old piston and ported sleeve of my .12 PD.......

NO S*** IT FIT? What an idea, KEWL!!! (by the way put a body on that puppy so it doesn't rip something else off . . .LOL))

Originally posted by Keiger
. . . First start of the day it fires right up and runs like a champ......if it runs out of gas or it dies....the day is pretty much over as far as getting it to restart.

And you're absolutely positively SURE it's not overheating? Cause that's what it sounds like to me. Have you tried leaning it back up after it dies?

Originally posted by sosidge

Crowd Pleazer GT shell...Here's a side view of mine...

Whoa that is sweet, I've never seen such a low-slung bod on a truck.

trxstr1961

11-25-2002, 01:05 PM

It comes with 1 installed!
Im wondering wheather to upgrade the chassis on my gt rtr or get another stock chassis :confused
I dont know why, but the drive side back hole for the arm mount has ovalized...any clue what causes that to happen??

Also, tower has a BLUE anodized tub chassis for one, gonna get it for a spare for our nds cars we both have :)

cryptonik420

11-25-2002, 01:15 PM

Originally posted by rocknbil
NO S*** IT FIT? What an idea, KEWL!!! (by the way put a body on that puppy so it doesn't rip something else off . . .LOL))

Oh man, if you have and old piston and sleeve PUT IT IN! you WILL like the results! I promise. It fits like a glove in my .12 OS CV

ross

11-25-2002, 02:00 PM

Originally posted by sosidge
...has dimples in it to fit the standard body mounts on a long-wheelbase (i.e. not early or RTR) GT.

It's a really nice fitting shell, low, with one side flared out slightly to clear the pipe.

Here's a side view of mine...

http://www.sosidge.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/2872.jpg

wow, nice shell. like the other guy said its low, if it wasnt for the blue i would have said it was a X**NT!!! (sorry for the bad language :D)

Ross.

atm92484_3

11-25-2002, 03:31 PM

Originally posted by trxstr1961
I dont know why, but the drive side back hole for the arm mount has ovalized...any clue what causes that to happen??

Thats from the screws loosening and moving around while you're driving. I had this happen on my NDS. It isn't a big deal since you can still tighten the screws, but using a longer screw with a nut would help a lot.

highonnitro

11-25-2002, 04:11 PM

hey everyone, i just got a team edition rc10gt with a crowd pleaser body and i was just wondering what hopups i should get for it first. i dont want to get too expensive with this model considering that i have another 2 to work with, i just want a quick list of the first few most important hopups or upgrades that will either make the truck more durable or just better. i know the mip clutch is a must according to most people.. thanks bye

earnhardtjr

11-25-2002, 04:13 PM

I have a RC10Gt that I raced last season and through out the year I used rechargable Alks. Well I have been considering a change to battery pack like Trinity, ect sell. My question is what is the best charger to get considering I will using a truck battery as my source and also what type of connectors do I need to get to connect the battery to the charger. I know the Trinity battery has that small connector but I am not sure how to connect up.

crazy1

11-25-2002, 08:40 PM

Way back on page 226 and before there were post about clutch bell bearings failing and clutch bells truning blue. Found out how to solve that problem the hard way. First I replaced the bearings. Two tanks later they were gone again. Then bought expensive bearings, clutch bell, and new clutch. One tank later bearings are gone again. Next bought brarings and clutch nut #7603. That fixed it. Too much play from wore out clutch nut probably caused clutch bell to drag on clutch and create heat. What do you think?

rocknbil

11-25-2002, 11:36 PM

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Thats from the screws loosening and moving around while you're driving. .....

Are you talking about the actual scew holes in the arm mounts or the hinge pin holes?

I had screws shear off from sloppy screw holes, betta buy some new mounts in either case, they're pretty cheap . . .

Originally posted by highonnitro..... was just wondering what hopups i should get for it first.......

I will always say, 70+oz/in, .11 sec or better ball bearing steel gear steering servo. :D Night and day, night and day.

Originally posted by earnhardtjr
....battery pack like Trinity, ect sell. My question is what is the best charger......

4-cell AA pack? Use a slow charger, 6 VDC at anywhere from 600 Mah to 800 Mah (Direct Current, not AC, and milliamps.) I use those wall-wart DC adaptors we all have in the nooks and crannies of our houses and have absolutely no idea what they originally went to. If it's 4- 7 VDC and between 400-800 mAH, it gets a female RC battery plug and now has a home in the RC drawer :)

BTW this is a slow charge and overnight works fine.

Originally posted by crazy1
..... post about clutch bell bearings failing and clutch bells truning blue......bought brarings and clutch nut #7603. That fixed it.

Or too much maybe? Like the inside race was slipping on the nut instead of riding on the bearings? Good to hear you haven't tossed the GT tho. :D

atm92484_3

11-25-2002, 11:51 PM

I was talking about the actual screws that hold the mounts onto the chassis (they're 8-32).

Soya

11-26-2002, 10:26 AM

231 pages! Nice!:eek: ;)

trxstr1961

11-26-2002, 11:02 AM

HEY atm, im working on my 2nd nds, and just found a set of cvds for the first one, going bacak this week to get another set, and the best thing is: $19.99 a set!

YO, if you have any new pics of yuour nds, post them so i can get some ideas for my 2:cool:

JCason

11-26-2002, 09:25 PM

I have a RC10GT RTR and I am going to start to add aftermarket parts. I have already decided on RPM A Arms front and rear. I have also changed the steering servo up front. I was thinking about adding some MIP products also, mainly looking at MIP cvds, 4 in 1 clutch and a different flywheel. I know the cvds are a good investment but what about a new flywheel (and which one lightweight or heavy) and the clutch? It still has the AE .15 stock motor. Also any other suggested first upgrades?

atm92484_3

11-26-2002, 09:46 PM

Trx, I haven't touched my NDS for atleast 6 months. Unless some sort of inspiration hits me to revive the car, I doubt it'll see much more road time. Before I do anything, its going to need a new tranny, new axles, new clutch/flywheel, and a new chassis. Thats a pretty good deal on the CVDs though since they normally go for $30+.

TommyT

11-26-2002, 10:55 PM

Hi All,

I have a JR XR-2 radio and I want to get a RC10GT to race at my local track. Should I get a RC10GT Plus RTR, learn to drive and then upgrade or should I get the RC10GT Factory Team w/OS.12CV-X right off the bat?

If I get the RC10GT Factory Team w/OS.12CV-X is the kit complete? Do I need anything else other than radio, receiver, servos, battery, glow starter, starter box and fuel to get the thing running?

In other words, does the kit come with; motor mount, header, tuned pipe, spur and pinon gears, wheels and fuel tank? Is the body painted? If the body is not painted are there any pre-painted bodies that fit. I am not especially fond of the stock body anyway.

That's all for now.

Thanks in advance,
TommyT

atm92484_3

11-26-2002, 11:37 PM

The FT GT only needs those items you listed (radio, rx, servos, etc...) For the 12 CV-X you won't need a starter box since it has a pullstart. The body is unpainted (its the Proline F150) but the prepainted GT RTR bodies for the newer RTR will fit. Although the GT RTR is a decent race truck out of the box, I would suggest getting the FT, building it, learning about the truck, and picking the equipment you want. Also, if you have the cash, try getting just the FT GT kit with no engine and getting something a little nicer like a 12 CV-RX since its a newer engine with more power and a chromed sleeve and better heatsink.

TommyT

11-26-2002, 11:54 PM

atm92484_3

Thanks for the quick reply.

Okay sorry, " my bad" as my son would say:). I didn't realize the the os10cv-x had a recoil starter. I don't want a recoil starter. I will considder the OS12CV-RX.

I guess the kit comes with header and pipe then. Should I upgrade? What would you suggest?

Also, what should I use for receiver protection? Balloon or a box? What about the battery tray?

What servos do you recommend? JR/FUT/Hitec/Airtronics? Money is an object.:eek:

Thanks again,
TommyT

Railman

11-27-2002, 12:21 AM

Tommy,
The X in the cvr-x is for the pullstart. Like ATM, I would also recomend the CVR std shaft which has the proper crank, & is non pullstart. Stay away from the sg crankshaft for use on the GT.
Joe

trxstr1961

11-27-2002, 12:36 AM

well, atm, if u want to sell it, please let me know.
trx1@yahoo.com

In other news, i just got done making my first part out of plexiglass, the rear shock tower. turned out really great. thats one less part i gotta buy for it :) ill post pics when i can. :)

SykoR4c3r

11-27-2002, 03:34 AM

someone should make us our own lil forum area or somethin. like RC10gt.com or somethin :-P or is there one?

JCason

11-27-2002, 07:28 AM

Originally posted by JCason
I have a RC10GT RTR and I am going to start to add aftermarket parts. I have already decided on RPM A Arms front and rear. I have also changed the steering servo up front. I was thinking about adding some MIP products also, mainly looking at MIP cvds, 4 in 1 clutch and a different flywheel. I know the cvds are a good investment but what about a new flywheel (and which one lightweight or heavy) and the clutch? It still has the AE .15 stock motor. Also any other suggested first upgrades?

Anyone?????

ross

11-27-2002, 11:29 AM

Originally posted by JCason
Anyone?????

A heavy flywheel gives you more low end power where has a lightweight flyhwheel gives you more high end power. Personally I would get the heavy weight one, but its up to you.

The clutch is a good upgrade, full stop.

cryptonik420

11-27-2002, 01:05 PM

A heavy flywheel gives you more low end power where has a lightweight flyhwheel gives you more high end power. Personally I would get the heavy weight one, but its up to you.

A heavy flywheel will keep the engine idling, it will not produce more bottom end. More rotating inerita will cause a drain of HP, it will never increase it. Weight and Horsepower do not mix. Also a heavy flywheel will allow the car to go uphills easier do to the rotating inertia. If you are just using the car for backyard bashing, I'd suggest keeping the stock flywheel on. For race purposes, get the lightweight one for a quicker throttle response and a slight increase in HP.

rocknbil

11-27-2002, 01:06 PM

Originally posted by SykoR4c3r
someone should make us our own lil forum area or somethin. like RC10gt.com or somethin :-P or is there one?

RC10GT is already owned by some enterprising, domain-squatting, pop-up infested SPAM MONKEY. Try going there and see, it's a shame.

Originally posted by JCason
I have a RC10GT RTR and I am going to start to add aftermarket parts. ....

Browse back a few posts or search this thread only for "servo." The single most important upgrade that will providethe best overall performance AND durability for the investment in my opinion is a high-speed, high-torque, ball-bearing metal gear steering servo.

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I was talking about the actual screws that hold the mounts onto the chassis

Yeah pick up some new mounts before you shear off the screws. While you're at it get a few sets with different squat angles and toe-in and expirament, see how it changes your accelleration and handling characteristics. It's a pretty cheap way to fiddle with your setup.

atm92484_3

11-27-2002, 03:00 PM

Originally posted by trxstr1961
well, atm, if u want to sell it, please let me know.
trx1@yahoo.com

I think I'm going to hang onto it. Being my first car, it carries a little bit of value to me. Plus who knows what could happen on a snowy night, with a paycheck in hand and an entire list of manufacturers on a computer screen.... :D

trxstr1961

11-27-2002, 03:51 PM

I hear u talking :D

SykoR4c3r

11-27-2002, 03:51 PM

ok ok i got a real question this time....

i just got a rc10gt from florida (i live in CA) and when i try to start it its sputters the dies...

if i leave the glo-starter on it, it will run but once i take it off wham it shuts off...

what should i do to find the problem? solutions?

ross

11-27-2002, 04:00 PM

Originally posted by SykoR4c3r
ok ok i got a real question this time....

i just got a rc10gt from florida (i live in CA) and when i try to start it its sputters the dies...

if i leave the glo-starter on it, it will run but once i take it off wham it shuts off...

what should i do to find the problem? solutions?

Sounds like your glo plug is dead.

TommyT

11-27-2002, 06:16 PM

Hi all,

What steering servo are you using?

What steering servo do you recommend from Futaba, JR, Airtronics, Hitec or others?

How about a less expensive alternative?

Thanks,
TommyT

SykoR4c3r

11-27-2002, 06:59 PM

yea it was....

but ok ok here goes...

i want to get better servos for my car.. what you recommend?

where can i get cool (not lame) decals?

i fergot the others dam!!!

earnhardtjr

11-27-2002, 11:08 PM

Went back and read my question and realized I did not convey what I was trying to ask very well. Ok, I currently use recharable Alks in my RC10GT. I want to go away from this setup. I am looking at using a recahrable NIMH pack liek the one Trinity sells. I also want to be able to charge my NIMH pack while I am at the track in between heats. While I would be charging in between heats my power source would be a car battery since I would not have access to electricty. So which charger do I need to look at to charge up this new reciever pack. Plus who sells and what type of connector do I need since the Trinity pack has those little servo connector leads.

Pro3/nmt105

11-27-2002, 11:54 PM

i use a 625mg for steering and a futuba s3003 for throttle. i used to use a 645 mg but the motor burnt out i have to send it in to be repaired. anyway the 625 is faster and suits the gt best.

SykoR4c3r

11-28-2002, 02:10 AM

yea dead glow plug and my settings where to rich...

trxstr1961

11-28-2002, 10:45 AM

what i ment to say is the hole in the chassis is ovalized, not the arm mount. sorry about the confusion. now what kan i do about the prob??

bubbastump

11-28-2002, 10:54 AM

quick question

i have piano wire and want to make an anti sway bar whats the best way to make and mount it i just made a air diverter goin to test it today at dads house if it works ill let yall know also i will change bodies and try the duct cooler see if i can get some massive speed without cookin p/s

one_mean_rc10gt

11-28-2002, 09:09 PM

Has anyone had any problems with RPM rear arm mounts? I snapped the left one in half off a small 2 to 3 foot jump. Would I be better going to aluminum instead of plastic for bashing?

Thanks

rc10gtroller

11-28-2002, 09:14 PM

can i put a backplate over my o.s. cv-x pull start engine so it will work with a starter box?

atm92484_3

11-28-2002, 09:23 PM

Yes you'll be able to fit a backplate over it. You'll just have to remove the crankshaft first and grind the nub off of the end that the startershaft catches on. Just be sure to clean the crank thoroughly before reinstalling everything or else metal shavings will destroy the engine.

GT, drop RPM an email. You may be able to get free ones from them. I'd still stick with plastic though since the aluminum will put the stress someplace else.

rc10gtroller

11-28-2002, 09:25 PM

thanks!!!

Pro3/nmt105

11-28-2002, 10:11 PM

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
Speaking of RPM,
Here is a list of all the stuff i have ordered from stormer and tower. I ordered it last sunday(17th) so it should be here in the next few days:
GT stuff (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com/GTstuff.htm)

Cant wait till it all shows up, then my GT will be going wicked! for a little while anyway, LOL

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)
just so u know the rpm ball cups dont fit the gt i tried them theyre too long so i had to cut them and they dont work in the steering cause they are to big and tough each other the stock ball cups seem to stay on better 2

rc10gtroller

11-28-2002, 10:18 PM

i had to put rpm ball cups on my gt i replaced and the ball cups i could find on my car!! the stock cups are crap i couldnt finish a race without one of them poppin off, i mean the littleist bump popped them off. the rpm ball cups are awsome!!

Wallis Racing

11-29-2002, 03:17 AM

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
just so u know the rpm ball cups dont fit the gt i tried them theyre too long so i had to cut them and they dont work in the steering cause they are to big and tough each other the stock ball cups seem to stay on better 2

You are right AND wrong.
The RPMs are like 100x better then the stock ones, but they dont fit on the front upper arm, so i got 2 new turnbuckles, shorter ones. Now it is all sweet. This was ages ago, and the ones i showed you in that list of stuff are for other purposes:)

anyways
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

ross

11-29-2002, 03:53 AM

There are two different types of RPM Ball Cup I think, one type is the long shank that the XXXNT uses which have to be cut down to fit the GT. I THINK they also do a shorter shank version which go straight onto the GT.

Wallis Racing

11-29-2002, 06:57 AM

OK, OK, let me get this 100% clear for you people.

RPM DO make 3 types of ball cups:
Super duty
long shank heavy duty
standard heavy duty

The long shank will NOT fit on the Gt unless you go buy a whole new turnbuckle set as well, which is just stupid.

The Super duty will also not fit unless you buy a set of special turnbuckles as well, which is just stupid cause you will have no probs with HD, so why bother with expensive SD?

The standard cups also do NOT fit dirrectly on the GT because the front upper arm turnbuckle is too long to use the RPM cups with, so you have to buy a shorter turnbuckle, which is what i did, and i have had no probs since.

so you can buy the standards and 2 new turnbuckles, or the long shank with 6 new turnbuckles or the SD ones with 6 new turnbuckles and all new ball ends as well(waste of money).

everyone clear on this now?

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

ross

11-29-2002, 08:07 AM

I am using RPM ball cups on the front camber link, would this explain for the lack of adjustment?

Do you have the link to the super duty turnbuckles and ball cups?

Cheers

Ross.

Wallis Racing

11-29-2002, 08:32 AM

LOL, HAHAHAHAHA:p
yes, if you are using the RPM cups and the standard front upper arm turnbuckles then that would explan the bad camber set-up and lack of adjustment.

Lunsford sell a package where you get super RPM super duty ends, lunsford ti turnbuckles and lunsford ti ball ends, its all on the lunsford website if you can find it.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

slaf

11-29-2002, 02:20 PM

What's your gear ratio on your GT ?

OldskoolGT

11-29-2002, 05:33 PM

You can also cut the standard RPM ball cups shorter to make them work with the existing turnbuckles.

Wallis Racing

11-29-2002, 11:39 PM

Originally posted by slaf
What's your gear ratio on your GT ?

I have the RRP steal spur and HD clutchbell set, which is the same as the stock setup i think(15t CB and 66t spur) and i have just got a 17t CB so that i can stop doing wheelies all the time, and i will have a litle more top end. Also, For when i want to do some EXTREME jumps i got a 56t spur(RRP plastic one) i only got the plastic one cause i wont be using it much.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

highonnitro

11-30-2002, 01:02 AM

hey everyone, i finally got my team edition rc10gt, this thing is sweet but it didnt come wiht manual so i am currently downloading the one from associated website, this truck seems pretty strong but are there any things that u other guys notice were really important to do before running the truck, like locktighting, etc......? if u can, just give me the heads up on some precuations and things i should be aware of that are common with rc10gt's, i am happy with my truck but i now have to buy an engine for it cuase the mount it came with wont let my pullstart fit. well im painting my crowd pleaser body tomorrow and so far this truck has no hopups on it, i just can't wait to use it. ok thanks bye

highonnitro

11-30-2002, 01:08 AM

oh yeah, here are a few pics of my truck with old engine in it.

highonnitro

11-30-2002, 02:25 AM

hey, my rc10gt comes with a non pullstart engine mount that wont allow my pullstart engine to fit. Can i just dremel off the back of the engine mount so that my engine will fit with pullstart on it rather than go out an buy anohter mount. here is a pic

joke_one

11-30-2002, 05:43 AM

i got a rc10gt plus, (rtr of course). but i love it. i took out the carb restictor and have a 64 tooth spur and a 18 tooth clutchbell. planing to get the mip lightened flywheel.mip cvd's. got the factory team Ti blue turnbuckle/hingpin set. with team losi ball ends. an air filter from the old kits. and red springs in the back with proline gladiator tires m3 compound. right now my truck is pretty b'dass I think. but i want it to be a full on jump truck can any one help me out with tuning tips for my suspentions and what not, because i cant find any articles on how to get my truck to jump 30 feet inthe air and not destroy it. thanks

Wallis Racing

11-30-2002, 12:33 PM

highonnitro-
Yes, you can just dremel part of the mounts away, but be awear that the mounts in the GTs play a MAJOR part in chassis strength, and to get a pull start to fit onto non-pull mounts, you have to dremel almost all of the rear of the mounts away, and this will make them much weaker. but i spose for the mounts to bent in that location, the engine would have to bent too, and i doubt that that is going to happen, LOL
I recomend that you order some pull mounts, and while you are waiting, dremel the non-pull mounts so you can use them till you get the correct mounts.
Also remember that you have to use non pull mounts with a non pull flywheel and vise versa, other wise you will have some probs. so if you order some pull mounts, you will have to order the pull flywheel aswell.

joke_one-
You are my kind of GTer. I hate all these people that get all excited when they get 3 feet of air, LOL
I am currently on the same mission as you, and so far i have done backflips, front flips, 12-15feet highjumps and 30-40foot long jumps:cool: and in all that, the main probs i have are:
broken rear arms(3)
bent CVDs(2)
stock ball cups constantly poping off
front shocks poping off bottom mount
broken front c-hubs/uprights(3)
Broken tanks(2)
rear bulkhead(i have only broke one, but everyone i know has broken them)
and a couple of other things i cant remember.
They are the main things you will want to work on.

BTW, I have a Factory Team GT and my hopups are:
RB Concept X12
Nova Rear Exhaust header
RPM HD ball cups
RRP steal spur and HD clutchbell set

and thats all i had when i was doing back flips and front flips, but my GT wasnt very durable in the big jumps.
i have just recieved an order packed full of RPM, MIP, RRP and other stuff. so with all this i hope to make my GT much more reliable when it comes to huge jumps:D

I will post an full, updated hop-up list tomorrow.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

SykoR4c3r

11-30-2002, 06:23 PM

man can anyone help me....
i keep losing wheel screws... i screw them on but they all fall out..

im getting new ones soon what should i do to help secure them?

i got a pull start os cv .15 and its pull start, but i dont want a pull start there annoying... i want it to be a none pullstart?
what do i need to buy to do it?

boyse

11-30-2002, 06:28 PM

where is the button to make a new post in this forum?

SykoR4c3r

11-30-2002, 06:29 PM

when you guys lose screws or somethin where do you get them? you lhs? or do you hit up you local hardware store, i got some screws that work from my shop can i use em or?

atm92484_3

11-30-2002, 06:43 PM

Syko, try getting new wheel nuts (I think this is what you're referring to). I'm willing to bet yours are worn and aren't "locking" like locknuts should. When I get screws, I'll do the lazy thing and instead of hitting the hardware stores (which, might I add, always seem to go down to 1 size above the screw I need), I just look in the manual and reorder a package of the needed screws.

Boyse, you have to request a new thread in this (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=279) forum.

SykoR4c3r

11-30-2002, 06:47 PM

hey wallis racing dude... where is ure updated list of hop ups for taking out my car...

where can i get spcialized stickers?

i need one for the front window, saying " Sykotic Racing Team "
one for eachside above racing number " Patient Number "
one for each side of the doors " Sykotic Gt "

im goin to paint my new body orange and black like mental hospital colors / inmate colors
and another body made like a tank... what do you suggest i do to make it any secrets?

boyse

11-30-2002, 06:49 PM

I don't see the clickable button to start a new thread. where is the button?? Hi.. im new here and think this forum is the fantastic. I got my GT from a guy who set it up for the oval. the car has a 24 tooth pinion and a 56 spur.. Im just finishing up breaking in the thunder tiger .12 The clutch cell/pinion has a purple tint to it and I think that means it is getting too hot. Is this gearing too much? If so, what gearing should I go to. I'm planing on running on the oval with about 75 foot straight aways. Peace and thanks, Steve

dog8spam

11-30-2002, 07:08 PM

I always buy from hardware stores, its rediculous how much associated charges for a pack of six screws. I've never had a problem with selection, though our hardware store is privatly owned.

Syko, I use these lock washers on everything now, theyre esier than threadlock and can be used on plastic. You can get them at hardware stores. To convert you need a backplate, mount, flywheel, pipe stand, and starterbox. You also need to be able to cut off the little nub on the crankshaft. I would get the ofna 1/10 universal starter box with power panel.

I just re-read your post, are you talking about 3 piece rims? If you are you need new wheels.

I just painted a body and went down to the tech lab at our high school and made all kinds of graphics for my car on this vynal machine. It even had the same fonts Associated uses. If you need some liquid mask I have a big bottle I havn't touched yet. You should also look at Alclad II chrome. I masked the numbers and letters inside the body and made them chrome, then made cut out the same letters on carbon fiber vynal and put them over the chrome letters so they have a chrome shadow. I also took this wierd symbol andstreched it out to make pinstriping, one part of it mettalic blue and the other chrome.

rocknbil

11-30-2002, 07:56 PM

DOG8SPAM - Please respond to this thread: :D
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=104757

As for the two separate questions about steering servos, go with anything over 70 oz/in torque, under .15 se speed, and ball bearings/metal gears. It makes a night and day difference. My pref is the Futaba 9204.

Wallis Racing

12-01-2002, 02:07 AM

Originally posted by SykoR4c3r
hey wallis racing dude... where is ure updated list of hop ups for taking out my car...

Here is my full hop-up list. With all this you can do HUGE jumps with little to no probs:

Team Associated RC10GT Factory Team Kit(pull start kit)
RB Concept X12 rear exhaust with slide carb
OS .12 CV-RX with 10E-R carb(spare engine)
Futaba MJ pistol Radio
Hitec MG605 servo
RPM Blue HD ball cups
RPM Yellow HD ball cups
RPM Blue front arms
RPM Blue rear arms
RPM Yellow 3mm nylon nuts
RPM 3deg yellow rear arm mounts
RPM yellow front mini bumper
RPM rear bulkhead
RPM adjustable yellow body mounts
RPM tite body savers
RPM yellow spring cups
RPM blue receiver box
RRP Steel spur(65t) and HD steel clutchbell(15t) set
RRP 56t plastic spur(speed runs)
RRP 17t HD steel clutch bell
RRP Ti topshaft
RRP Hardened steel idler gear
RRP Hard alloy main diff gear
MIP Lightweight flywheel
MIP 4-N-1 Clutch
MIP shiny CVD Bones
AE Non-pull mounts
AE GT/NTC3 fuel tank(#7719)
Team Trinity Blue anodized alloy rear tranny brace
Shocks 4 socks HD blue socks
Eureka Pro purple closed ends
Rear tires- M2 gladiators, road hawg II's, Sand paws, speed paws
Front tires- speed paws, M2 edges, M3 edges
Rims- Proline yellow velocities(on every thing but sand paws) and RPM blue chromes(for sand paws)
Proline Crowd pleaser body

WOW, i didnt realise it was that big:)
I REALLY need some new servos, but i will have to make do for now.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://ww.wallisracing.itgo.com)

challenger440-6

12-01-2002, 11:02 AM

i just bought the rc10gt plus,i love except for the .15 engine. the thing has a horrible power band! it's all or nothing. i was wondering if you have any ideas on how to improve that? another thing is getting a good body for it. I dont have the time, skill, or equipment to paint my own body, but i'm looking for a nice dodge truck(i'm a mopar nut:D ). if you have any ideas for either of my problems dont hesitate to tell me.

atm92484_3

12-01-2002, 11:15 AM

Try swapping glow plugs and retuning the engine. If the carb restrictor is still in, thats the reason why the powerband isn't that great. Get used to the tuning then remove it if you want a lot more power.

good luck

challenger440-6

12-01-2002, 11:28 AM

i was thinking about removing the restrictor but nver got around to doin it

dog8spam

12-01-2002, 02:41 PM

Can you use 1/4 wheels on 3/16 axles?

ross

12-01-2002, 04:00 PM

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
LOL, HAHAHAHAHA:p
yes, if you are using the RPM cups and the standard front upper arm turnbuckles then that would explan the bad camber set-up and lack of adjustment.

Lunsford sell a package where you get super RPM super duty ends, lunsford ti turnbuckles and lunsford ti ball ends, its all on the lunsford website if you can find it.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

Thanks for that, very helpful. Im after some Ti turnbuckles and I was looking into the Titanium Racing ones or the Lunsford Super Duty ones. So with the SD turnbuckles are the front camber turnbuckles the right size to accept the RPM ball cups that come with them? Ifnot what size turnbuckles do I need to buy for the front camber?

Thanks again

Ross.

ross

12-01-2002, 04:02 PM

Originally posted by dog8spam
Can you use 1/4 wheels on 3/16 axles?

Nope, Ive tried it. :(

Ross.

SykoR4c3r

12-01-2002, 05:21 PM

ok well i got a os cv .15 pullstart... i need to install it on the car.. should i first turn it to a non-pull start? (well of course i gotta do that)

im new to this what do you recommend a newbie to do?

atm92484_3

12-01-2002, 11:18 PM

Since you're new, I wouldn't reccomend taking an engine apart and doing the non-pullstart mod. Just mount the engine with the recoil starter and enjoy the convenience of having an onboard starter. Plus you'll still be able to use a starter box.

JCason

12-02-2002, 12:08 AM

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Try swapping glow plugs and retuning the engine. If the carb restrictor is still in, thats the reason why the powerband isn't that great. Get used to the tuning then remove it if you want a lot more power.

good luck

From what I have heard, removing the restrictor has not helped many peoples performance and has also caused tuning issues. I took mine out and saw no difference in power but a little better throttle response. Plus it went through gas much faster.

Wallis Racing

12-02-2002, 03:24 AM

Originally posted by ross
Im after some Ti turnbuckles and I was looking into the Titanium Racing ones or the Lunsford Super Duty ones. So with the SD turnbuckles are the front camber turnbuckles the right size to accept the RPM ball cups that come with them? Ifnot what size turnbuckles do I need to buy for the front camber?

Hey,
If you want the super duty turnbuckles, you NEED the RPM SD cups and Lunsford SD ball ends, cause it is like 1/8th scale stuff, which is why they call it SUPER DUTY! and if you get the SD set, it will all fit no probs.

but you really dont need SD, all you need is four 2 1/2 inch standard ti turnbuckles and two 2 3/8 inch ones(for the camber link) and finish it off with a set of RPM ball cups. and if you do this, get lunsford ti turnbuckles, cause they are slightly thicker then the AE ti ones.

It is prolly cheaper to just get some normal ti rods and some HD cups, but if the price difference between that^^^ and the SD set is not much, you might as well go for the SD set.
What ever you do, those are your 2 options.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

ross

12-02-2002, 03:50 AM

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
Hey,
If you want the super duty turnbuckles, you NEED the RPM SD cups and Lunsford SD ball ends, cause it is like 1/8th scale stuff, which is why they call it SUPER DUTY! and if you get the SD set, it will all fit no probs.

but you really dont need SD, all you need is four 2 1/2 inch standard ti turnbuckles and two 2 3/8 inch ones(for the camber link) and finish it off with a set of RPM ball cups. and if you do this, get lunsford ti turnbuckles, cause they are slightly thicker then the AE ti ones.

It is prolly cheaper to just get some normal ti rods and some HD cups, but if the price difference between that^^^ and the SD set is not much, you might as well go for the SD set.
What ever you do, those are your 2 options.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

Thanks alot ;)

ritchies rc10gt

12-02-2002, 09:57 AM

heres a few pics of my gt finally.

ritchies rc10gt

12-02-2002, 09:58 AM

ritchies rc10gt

12-02-2002, 10:00 AM

ritchies rc10gt

12-02-2002, 10:01 AM

#4 last one,man the gt is tiny compared to monster pirate!

SykoR4c3r

12-02-2002, 05:41 PM

well id be able to do it man i already took apart my ae .15 and fixed it / cleaned it up.... i hate pullstarts there a bitch
i just want to drive my car with the less amount of pulling i can..

Pro3/nmt105

12-02-2002, 09:07 PM

my stock ball cups seem to stay on much better than my rpm ones the stock ones never pop off but the rpms always do i think they dont fit the ball end well ive actually had the stock ballcups rip the ball endout of the shocktower rather than popping off

trxstr1961

12-03-2002, 12:00 AM

Wow thats cool, hhmm makes me think that rpm aint all that now!

dog8spam

12-03-2002, 07:25 AM

Thats the most colorful GT i've seen! Whered that green chassis come from?
P.S. get a starter box.

Wallis Racing

12-03-2002, 08:26 AM

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
my stock ball cups seem to stay on much better than my rpm ones the stock ones never pop off but the rpms always do i think they dont fit the ball end well ive actually had the stock ballcups rip the ball endout of the shocktower rather than popping off

For me it was the exact oposite!
With my stock ball cups, i would ALWAYS go side ways down our drive way and the rear wheels would hit little half burried rocks and the rear ball cups would pop off, ALL THE TIME! it was sooo annoying, and when i went racing every second lap i would be popping ball cups back on:mad:
Now i got my RPMs, its wicked, they have NEVER come off. and when they were new i needed pliers to get them on, where as he stock ones just needed to be pushed on.

Also, the stock ball cups are real thin compared to the RPMs, so one the stock ones either pop on and off a few times, or even if they only ever pop off when you are rebuilding you car, they loose their shape to the point where you can just slip it on the ball end with out a clicking sound(experience:)), but the RPMs will never loose their shape.

anyways, i think thats a big enough plug for RPM, LOL
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

Jamedup

12-03-2002, 10:07 AM

I'm sorry Wallis Racing, but I disagree (kinda). I've played the ball cup game and I've found that ball cups are just one of those wear idems like tires. I like the AE cups but they need to be replaced often. I don't care for RPM cups as many of the racers I race with are finding out now. My cup of choice is Losi cups on AE ball studs. I'm not downing RPM but I (and my fellow racers :( ) just haven't had any luck with their ballcups.

ttweedle

12-03-2002, 12:20 PM

I find that captured ends are the best of all. They never pop off and are super durable. I think duratrax sells a 12 pack for less than 5 dollars. Just my .02

SykoR4c3r

12-03-2002, 01:13 PM

where can i get the (RB Concept X12 rear exhaust with slide carb) what online shop do you guys recommend?

what do you recommend for a car that will be racing?

rocknbil

12-03-2002, 02:30 PM

Originally posted by ttweedle
I find that captured ends are the best of all. ...

The only problem there is that under hard impact something must give, and I'd rather it be the ball cup than a turnbuckle, ripped-out ball stud (then the shock tower needs to be replaced,) or other breaks.

Whatever works, I've gone the RPM route, Losi route, and stock, I use the RPM's on the GT just because I don't have to dye them. :D

Originally posted by SykoR4c3r:
...what do you recommend for a car that will be racing?

Can't help you on the engine, but umm yer in the GT thread . . .

AE GT!

:D

You were talkingabout the GT? Oh! For conditioning and hop-ups? There's lots . . . strong and fast steering servo, lock-tite problem area screws, right tires for the track, practice on the track before race day . . . the GT is pretty much ready to go out of the box with a good break-in.

driller

12-03-2002, 04:02 PM

Been a snoop on this forum for a couple years now but "NOT" knowledgeable enough to add any insight yet and I'm not to hip on this battery pack & charger match ups and could use some help please!

MRC Super Brain 959 Charger

In need of another good battery charger for my Factory GT??
Is this a good peak charger for 1100 mAh Trinity Nickel Metal Hydride Receiver Pack & Sanyo 8N700AA Transmitter NiCd Pack Flat 9.6V 700mAh. It will only charge 1 pack @ a time right and how quick does it charge. those who have one please speak freely would like to hear from everyone!!!!!

"driller added" :cool:
After a year of input from this forum I finally added an ofna throttle linkage kit to my factory team gt like night & day the best non repair item ive ever bought but I set it up different than you guy's will add my 2-cents after testing if your interested let me know!

(IFITAN'TNITRODON'TDRINKIT)

ross

12-03-2002, 04:49 PM

Originally posted by rocknbil
The only problem there is that under hard impact something must give, and I'd rather it be the ball cup than a turnbuckle, ripped-out ball stud (then the shock tower needs to be replaced,) or other breaks.

Yeh, I agree with that. I use captured ball ends on both ends of the rear camber turnbuckles because I had RPM's on and I even popped them on the rear. On the front I use RPM's all round except on the outter sides of the toe-in turnbuckle has I find if you clip a wall or track marking a ball cups are easily be popped.

Jamedup

12-03-2002, 06:27 PM

Originally posted by ttweedle
I find that captured ends are the best of all. They never pop off and are super durable. I think duratrax sells a 12 pack for less than 5 dollars. Just my .02

LOL, you guys are brutal on this things, aren't ya? :D

SykoR4c3r

12-03-2002, 07:45 PM

yes im goin to be racing my gt with some hardcore nitro fans.. im just a newb here and there cars are all decked out
what do you recommend?

best servo? brand name and or link 2 safe spot to buy?

anythin that you guy recommend off thre bat to get and replace?
trouble area's and what not?

when i floor it my car heads to the right. and any regular driving it steers to the right.. its not the control its fine....
the car is set like this
(The rear is set to have toe in and about -1 degree camber. This gives the rear more traction. The front should have no toe in/out with 0 degree camber. If you need more steering then change the front cambers to -1 degree)

Railman

12-03-2002, 11:35 PM

On using captured ends...I have to agree with Ross. I ocasionally run at crcrc (Columbus Oh), & if you don't run captured ends, you will be hard pressed to finish a heat. It's normally a high hp, technical, high bite track. Last week they had 110 gassers there, with people from all over the mid west. Pretty much everyone runs captured ends on the GT's. I've not had a problem with breaking any other parts as a result of using them, & I use a JR4750 plastic geared servo.
Joe

Wallis Racing

12-04-2002, 03:15 AM

Originally posted by SykoR4c3r
where can i get the (RB Concept X12 rear exhaust with slide carb) what online shop do you guys recommend?

what do you recommend for a car that will be racing?

MMMMmmmmm, RB!
I have a RB X12, with the slide carb and, well, its WICKED fast!

www.towerhobbies.com and www.stormerhobbies.com are the best that i have found. stormer has things like 5cents-$2 cheaper then tower, but towers shipping prices are cheaper, so they kinda level out in the end.

The only REAL probs i had with racing my Factory Team GT with R X12 was that if you are racing in a 'not-so-pro' class then you WILL get rear ended, and you WILL break rear arms. i upgraded to RPM blue plastic arms, which are suposedly nearly indistructable, and so far i have had no probs with them. The other probs i had are that the front uprights/C-hubs are a little weak if they take a hit, they break through the hole that the ball ends screws into, and after a bit of thumping around, the front shocks will pop off at the bottom mount, but that is cause the closed end/eylet gets worn out. And last but not least there is the age old ball cup debate, which you can read about up there^^^^^.

Back to the ball cups-
What i like about the RPMs is that they pretty much last forever, and never really need to be replaced, but with the AE ones, once the pop off in a crash like 2 times, then they are wrecked and need to be replaced. and a pack of RPMs is only $4.95, so its not like buying a new engine or enything. they, FOR ME, are just easier, less trouble, and save me money cause im not always having to replace the stock ones.
Also, with closed ends, i bought some after marked ones to replace the stock ones in the rear, and i got some from an aussie company called Eureaka Pro, and they match the RPMs, in the sence that they are bulky like the RPM HD ball cups, and so far i have had no probi also went and put these new closed ends on the bottom off all my shocks to stock them poping off.

anyways, enough ranting,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

ross

12-04-2002, 03:25 AM

On the bottom shock joint and on captured joints, I always put a washer between the head of the screw and the ball, this means its impossiple to pop :D but like the other guy said you could damage other parts like that because nothing gives. But I havent had a problem with them yet.

Ross.

Wallis Racing

12-04-2002, 06:17 AM

Ross-
I did that with my stock shock bottoms, but cause my crashes are so wicked(LOL), and the washer stops the bottom of the shock from poping off, it kept either ripping the shock bottom off the shock shaft, or it would completely snap the bottom closed end. This is why i got these other things, and they work wicked, plus they come in any colour you want, i got some purple ones and some blue ones:)
Click HERE to see them. (http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?1.IL&mt=na&re=h&nt=dynamic&ta=eur115001_detail::eur,d:eur115001.txt,p:,s:,i:e ur115001.jpg,t:eur115001.gif&ip={mt=da&it=n&ap=radio&co=prdetail&us=1039000023-59&kn=cat.brand-eur-land-202-282-1055&**)

they are wicked. i remember back in the day of the real HPI forum, there was a debate about the best ones, and i think that out of all that could be found at that time, these were the most HD ones.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

ross

12-04-2002, 07:58 AM

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
Ross-
I did that with my stock shock bottoms, but cause my crashes are so wicked(LOL), and the washer stops the bottom of the shock from poping off, it kept either ripping the shock bottom off the shock shaft, or it would completely snap the bottom closed end. This is why i got these other things, and they work wicked, plus they come in any colour you want, i got some purple ones and some blue ones:)
Click HERE to see them. (http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?1.IL&mt=na&re=h&nt=dynamic&ta=eur115001_detail::eur,d:eur115001.txt,p:,s:,i:e ur115001.jpg,t:eur115001.gif&ip={mt=da&it=n&ap=radio&co=prdetail&us=1039000023-59&kn=cat.brand-eur-land-202-282-1055&**)

they are wicked. i remember back in the day of the real HPI forum, there was a debate about the best ones, and i think that out of all that could be found at that time, these were the most HD ones.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

Wallis Racing,

Thanks, Ill look into them. Ive seen people using them or something like them, probaly not the same make, but Ill try them if I have any problems with the standard ones with the washers.

Ross.

TommyT

12-04-2002, 10:44 AM

Hi All,

I just have a few comments concerning mail order vs. hobby shops.

Back in the 80's I used to work in a hobby shop. Back then and even today it is a very tough business. It was very hard to compete with mail order especially Tower Hobbies and eventually the store I worked for went out of business.

I've seen many people come in look at a model, ask many questions and then leave only to buy it from a mail order company to save a few dollars. That's just not right and these stores don't get paid for being mail orders product support.

Hey, I'm not made out of money, I have to strech my hobby dollars and I'm always looking to save a dime but, I also know that I need to support my local hobby shops. One day I may need something quick or I may want to check out that "Hot New Racer" but guess what, Petes Hobby Shop down the street is out of business.

Many hobby shops, even if they don't advertise it, are willing to match mail order prices. Ask!

My philosophy is this: If I want to buy something I always go to my local hobby shop first. I tell him that I want to buy a high dollar item and ask if he is willing to match mail order prices.I have never found a shop that wouldn't. Yea, I may have to pay a few dollars more for tax as opposed to shipping but that's the price I'm willing pay to support my hobby shop and to have the item that day. He's happy and I'm happy to have my new toy.

One other thing. You go to the shop but guess what he doesn't have what you are looking for but tells you that he can order it for you. You think to yourself well, I can just order it myself then and save myself a trip back to the store. Personally I like going to the hobby shop. Looking at all the neat toys that I can't afford but dream about. I also enjoy talking to the employees and have them show me what's new.

Give the hobby shops a chance.

Sorry for the long post.
TommyT
Miami, Fl

one_mean_rc10gt

12-04-2002, 10:54 AM

What is the main difference between a pullstart mount vs a non pullstart mount? Does anyone know how to modify a trinity non pullstart motor mount to work with a pullstart motor? I do alot of jumping and would like the extra bracing the trinity mount gives or should I stick with the stock motor mount? I have a RTR GT with the blue chassis that I am upgrading to a FT or some other after market chassis.

Thanks,
One_Mean_RC10GT :confused:

trxstr1961

12-04-2002, 11:08 AM

Tommy i can not agree on that. here in muncie,ind we have 2 hooby shops, one works one dont. the one that dont is soo greedy, goes through a ditributor, then marks UP the price..

Super hornet tower $70 our lhs $129
MAXX " $400 " " $529
1500 mbatteries " $15 " " $22.95

yeah i know they need to make a profit, but two weeks to order something?? i dont think so!

ross

12-04-2002, 11:22 AM

Originally posted by one_mean_rc10gt
What is the main difference between a pullstart mount vs a non pullstart mount? Does anyone know how to modify a trinity non pullstart motor mount to work with a pullstart motor? I do alot of jumping and would like the extra bracing the trinity mount gives or should I stick with the stock motor mount? I have a RTR GT with the blue chassis that I am upgrading to a FT or some other after market chassis.

Thanks,
One_Mean_RC10GT :confused:

The non pullstart engine mount makes the engine sit lower in the truck so the smaller flywheel will touch your starter box. Thats the only rear difference I think. Im not sure if you can modify that Trinity one for it to work.

Ross.

atm92484_3

12-04-2002, 11:38 AM

Mean, the Trinity mount doesn't offer any other bracing, unless you are referring to part number tk1200 which isn't needed and won't fit the new blue plate chassis.

one_mean_rc10gt

12-04-2002, 12:19 PM

Thanks for the info guys. Do you think the FT chassis upgrade kit for about $50 bucks is the best way to go for bashing?

Thanks,
One_Mean_RC10GT

TommyT

12-04-2002, 12:44 PM

Originally posted by trxstr1961
Tommy i can not agree on that. here in muncie,ind we have 2 hooby shops, one works one dont. the one that dont is soo greedy, goes through a ditributor, then marks UP the price..

Super hornet tower $70 our lhs $129
MAXX " $400 " " $529
1500 mbatteries " $15 " " $22.95

yeah i know they need to make a profit, but two weeks to order something?? i dont think so!

Trxter,

You are absolutely right some hobby shops may not be willing to work with you. These will ultimately see their demize or they do enough business in plastic to survive.

Even the hobby shops here in Miami, FL have higher sticker prices than the mail order stores but, I have never run into a dealer who was not willing to match a price. You just got to ask.

I just purchased 2 RC10GT RTR's for Christmas. The shops here had them for $299.00 only $10.00 more than in mail order. I asked if they were willing to come down the $20.00 dollars and they happily agreed. Also, if I am going in there to spend $20.00 on various items I am not going to squable over 2 or 3 dollars, it will cost me more than that in shipping.

I usually ask to match if an item is $20.00 or more and if there is a significant difference in price.

I am sorry that it takes two weeks to get a special order from your local hobby shop. I do not have this problem I can usually get it in 4 to 5 days.

TommyT

rocknbil

12-04-2002, 12:44 PM

Originally posted by SykoR4c3r
.....there cars are all decked out
what do you recommend?

Skyo see the discussion on SERVOS on page 221, and why not to use metal spurs and other things on page 223 (links at bottom of this page.)

when i floor it my car heads to the right. and any regular driving it steers to the right.. its not the control its fine....
the car is set like this.....

If your remote steering trim is centered, shorten the turnbuckle from the servo to the steering bellcrank to re-center the steering geometry.

Originally posted by Jamedup
LOL, you guys are brutal on this things, aren't ya?

NO WAY! we treat our GT's with love, respect, and tender loving care! It's the trees, rocks, ground, other drivers, and jumps that are so brutal. :D

Originally posted by TommyT
....I just have a few comments concerning mail order vs. hobby shops ....

Tommy T I *want* to agree with you but some realities really get in the way of this.

First of all the owners of the only LHS in MY area are total a$$holes. They want you to break your stuff, it's not about love of the hobby with them, it's all about money. They hate 95% of the people who walk through their door to bring them business.

Setting that aside, let's look at an American icon that I miss most of all: the Drive-In movies. We loved the drive-ins. We'd back the pickup up by a speaker, get out the pillows and blankets, and watch a movie under the stars. It was great.

Then came videotape, DVD . . . you know where this is going. The forward march of technology made it impossible for driv-ins to survive.

The same is true for the LHS. We know the cost of running a business. We know that the mark-up is not because they're greedy, but because it's what they need to do to pay for rent, electricity, fees, and all the other costs of running a business. Even with the markups they will be hard pressed to break even.

The information age has made it worse. 10 years ago, I was one of the few in my area that knew about Tower Hobbies before they had a web site. When I got my original RC 10T for $89 when the LHS was selling it for $159, it became very apparent to me as a consumer that there was a lot more than a few dollars to be saved by buying through mail-order. As you know, along comes the internet and has tightened the markup margin even more. It used to be that the LHS could take advantage of ignorance and availability: "I'm the only place around and no one knows better." As consumers, with all the information available to us and the ease of which we can compare prices, if just doesn't make economical sense to pay a 20-40% markup on a $250 item.

So how is a LHS going to survive? Not by crying "buy from me, not the internet!" That's as good as me saying "tear that condominium down, I want my Drive-In back!" They need to diversify. Look at RCBoyz. These guys got it down, they are making a killing by selling their stock through eBay, not at the same prices they'd get in their store, but just over their cost, having the bidder cover postage, and making it work in quantity. Additionally, those who are really savvy are going to find some other business income that is going to help bring the LHS shop along - I just saw a post for a combo LHS/pet store on this forum! Whatever works.

That is my perception of the reality of the LHS place in the food chain.

TommyT

12-04-2002, 01:31 PM

Competition is good it brings down prices and perhaps if there is only one or two LHS's in your area then they may feel that they can jack up the price because you don't know any better. Maybe they are in a good location and get a lot of walkins/newbees.

We can arm ourselves with the latest Tower Talk or Hobby People catalog and say: "Hey, I would like to purchase this RC10GT are you willing to match the price?" If not, kindly tell them that their price is too high and that you will order it from the catalog. It's that simple. They will get the message and maybe the next time you go in there thay may be more willing to work with you. If not, stay away and go ahead and order everything.

All I'm saying is that it would be a shame if all the LHS's went out of business and all you could do is order. Immagine it's Saturday afternoon and you needed some fuel for a race on Sunday. How would you get it?

I can not afford to order/buy two or three of everthing just in case something breaks and I have a couple spares. If something breaks I may have one spare but, I know that I can go to my LHS's and get a replacement right away.

Enough from me,
TommyT
Happy Holidays

TommyT

12-04-2002, 01:38 PM

Hi All,

Just wondering if there is a RC10GT FAQ?

If not, can a senior member please start one?

We could all benefit from this and it would limit the number of repeditive posts.

TommyT

atm92484_3

12-04-2002, 01:55 PM

Tommy, you do not understand how hobby shops work. Being an employee of one, I can tell you it is IMPOSSIBLE for a store to remain in business yet match the prices of Tower (which might I add is a terrible online store for what they do to the hobby). As a consumer/hobbiest, it is your duty to support your LHS. If it means paying the extra $10 or $20 on a kit, then so be it. Afterall, I'm sure the <sarcasm> oh so wonderful </sarcasm> people at Tower won't get off of their asses to start races or to bring the latest products to you. Most shops are usually a few dollars over the price of online companies. However, being an employee of such shops, I can tell you that we had T-Maxxes a good 3 weeks before Tower had them, not to mention the Savages, and the store's prices were not unreasonable after you factor in next day shipping (still have them in stock....but Tower doesn't..:D..). Also, do not forget that a good hobby shop will also be willing to help you in the event you need to find parts, need an engine tuning, or anything along that line. Try calling Tower and asking them how to tune an engine (not that the people on the phones would know anyways.....)! Plus, if you do not support your LHS and they go out of business, I'm sure you'll be on this board complaining about haz-mat charges for fuel and how you must buy them in cases of 4 gallons for $100 a case! I do agree though that if an LHS isn't worthy of your money, go someplace else, but don't screw a good hobby shop just because of their prices being a few dollars higher.

-Sorry I get a little fired up when people slam LHS'es simply because they have prices a little higher than Tower's. Distributors (especially Great Planes..aka Tower) are really the ones to point the finger at. They could atleast lower the store costs even more. Of course they won't do it though since they'll be losing money. The only real way for RC prices to come down in hobby shops is for someone to become a hobby shop only distributor so they aren't competiting with themselves. This is slowly happening, but the ones out there now still don't have the major rights to the big name companies.

As for the FAQ section, to my knowledge there isn't one, but if you use the search function and select only this forum and put either "GT" or "RC10GT" as one of the key words, theres a good chance something will pop up. If not, just ask anyways. Us GT'ers are always willing to answer questions.

TommyT

12-04-2002, 02:23 PM

I am in favor for supporting you local hobby shop. But many don't and buy through mail order.

If I were a retailer I would rather match a price, get a sale and a happy customer rather than loose the sale and the custommer who will never enter my store again.

Please see all my posts on page 234.

Regards,
TommyT

atm92484_3

12-04-2002, 02:33 PM

I saw your posts and I do agree with that to a point. However, then those customers who got a nice deal go and tell their buddies and pretty soon the shop is making next to nothing or even losing money on stuff since everyone comes in asking for better prices.

TommyT

12-04-2002, 02:51 PM

So what's the answer?

Great Planes is trying to monopolize the market. Horizon is hanging on. Many have been bought out or gone under.

Retailers need to be compeditive to survive but as long as Great Planes keeps the prices to its retailers high, the retailer can not make much of a profit on the sale.

We need a balance.

TommyT

atm92484_3

12-04-2002, 02:53 PM

A balance would be nice....especially if it came in a form of a new distributor who sold Kyosho, O.S., and Futaba (Tower only brands) at a price even they couldn't match. I'm sure Tower would hate it if someone sold Kanai IIs for a price similar to those in Japan (I think right around the $500 mark).

TommyT

12-04-2002, 03:04 PM

Originally posted by atm92484_3
A balance would be nice....especially if it came in a form of a new distributor who sold Kyosho, O.S., and Futaba (Tower only brands) at a price even they couldn't match. I'm sure Tower would hate it if someone sold Kanai IIs for a price similar to those in Japan (I think right around the $500 mark).

Hmmmmm!!!!!!!

My brother is stationed at Misawa Airforce Base in Japan :D

atm92484_3

12-04-2002, 03:21 PM

If someone like him wanted to, I'm sure he could make a killing on importing rc cars, especially if he catered to hobby shops. That way they could either set the price or have a lot more room to bargain and still make a nice profit.

trxstr1961

12-04-2002, 03:57 PM

enough of this, now back to our forum.

why does the right rear arm mount always ovalized on the chassis and not the left? both my gt chassis (pan and tub) have this...:confused:

deathlok

12-04-2002, 04:16 PM

hi !!
i am intresting in buying a rc10gt and i have three questions
1) is it a good truck?
2)there is any rumours if it will change soon?
thanks!
3)could i fit my cv-r with a slide carb?

SykoR4c3r

12-04-2002, 07:53 PM

ok the servo u guys menntioned where

s9402 and s9404
can anyone tell me of others they recommend?

atm92484_3

12-04-2002, 09:32 PM

Originally posted by trxstr1961
enough of this, now back to our forum.

why does the right rear arm mount always ovalized on the chassis and not the left? both my gt chassis (pan and tub) have this...:confused:

Its just from the screws loosening and the car being driven around with the loose screws. The movement and the threads of the screws wear away at the chassis. My NDS did this, but I prevented it by always checking the screws on the GT.

Deathlok,
1) Yes its a good truck. Even the bottom of the line RTR truck is a very capable race truck out of the box in the hands of an experienced driver.
2) AE doesn't change designs much on cars when they're working good. Since the GT was updated about 2 years ago, I doubt we'll be seeing another update soon, especially since the truck is still winning. You can almost be sure though that when an update occurs, there will be a kit to upgrade the old kit to the new specs.
3) CV-R with a slide carb is no problem. After the update, AE even has instructions for setting up the linkage and they've flipped the fuel tank to allow for the clearance of the carb.

Pro3/nmt105

12-04-2002, 09:34 PM

TommyT i agree that lhs's loose money from mail order places but there main customer isnt the experienced racer my lhs has a track and almost no one at the track buys at the lhs yet around now christmas time the rc department is packed with all these little kids and new buyers, thats how they get all their business these new buyers dont even know tower exists and buy everything from the lhs. these kids are spoiled so they get bored of their cars in a month and then next season around christmas time they sell hundreds of kits again. There also another noob rush in the beginning of the summer. i would buy from my lhs but i cant afford to kits are like 45$ or more more expensive than on tower plus u have to pay tax. there one guy there who hates me who works there (he hates everyone though) i dont know why mabey its cause i only buy parts and no kits or hop-ups there but the other guys are cool.

dog8spam

12-04-2002, 11:38 PM

I would LOVE to have a LHS where I live, but our town probably couldn't support one fast enough to get on its feet. The only thing I dont like is when everywhere you go its a HobbyTown and they have all the same stuff.

dothlok- you dont need slide carb, they are only supposed to make a difference in .21s and up.
The GT changes all the time. I bought my GT in 1998 and the new RTR plus's are totally different. (even within the last two years) Associated is good at fixing problems fast. When a company updates a car with all the ads and glamour, doesn't it make you wonder how much they effert they put into the previous car? Its just another flash in the pan desighn that will be replaced someday by another car.
Associated doesn't do that, they fix the little problems and keep what works. Anyway...

ATM- you can get longer 8-32s at a hardware store and put nuts on the ends. The one under the spur gear you cant change.

atm92484_3

12-05-2002, 07:05 AM

I figured that with the nuts, but I've never been able to find one thin enough to work for me or to reccomend to anyone else.

bubbastump

12-05-2002, 07:13 AM

whoooooo hooooooo its snowing !!! have 3 inches allready . gonna get more, gettin ready to go to track and thrash around in the snow. ooh yeah air diverter works awesome better than the duct cooler .

Wallis Racing

12-05-2002, 08:02 AM

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I figured that with the nuts, but I've never been able to find one thin enough to work for me or to reccomend to anyone else.

When you buy the RPM rear arm mounts, they come with 2 long fat screws and nuts and 2 long skinny screws and nuts. So working from the front of the chassis for each mount you have the stock scew, then a long fat one with a nut, then a long skinny one with a nut which holds the rear bumper on. With all these screws it holds the mounts on heaps tight, they pretty much never come loose.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

atm92484_3

12-05-2002, 08:14 AM

Do the RPM ones still have the anti-squat though? I didn't think they did since they were made before the GT was updated.

Wallis Racing

12-05-2002, 08:24 AM

I have absolutly no idea what that is, LOL:p
But im sure its on the RPM website:)

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

atm92484_3

12-05-2002, 08:45 AM

LOL....their site didn't say. I haven't had a problem with the stock ones aside from the screws needing tightening after about 20 or so tanks, but atleast the RPM ones are bullet-proof.

Wallis Racing

12-05-2002, 09:05 AM

Well the main reason i got them was cause after every half a tank the screws in my stock ones had pretty much fallen out:rolleyes: So i got the RPM stuff. I LOVE rpm now, got heaps of their stuff on my GT:
Blue HD ball cups, Yellow HD ball cups, Blue front arms, Blue rear arms, Yellow 3mm nylon nuts, 3deg yellow rear arm mounts, Yellow front mini bumper, Rear bulkhead, Adjustable yellow body mounts, tite body savers, Yellow spring cups, Blue receiver box, Blue chrome clawz(front and back).

You gotta love RPM, and you gotta love the fact that they will replace most things that break, even if its gunna cost me $30 shipping to get a $16 part, LOL

anyways,
Mad Man

Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

driller

12-05-2002, 09:11 AM

What do you guy's thin about the new Monster GT

http://www.****************/news/default.asp?cmd=view&articleid=739

boricua racing

12-05-2002, 11:39 AM

does a rear exhaust engine fit in a factory team gt? what maninfold and pipe do i need?

trxstr1961

12-05-2002, 11:55 AM

ok, cool
now i know that i cant fix this prob (screw hole under spur gear)

so what to do, what to do??:confused:

rocknbil

12-05-2002, 12:38 PM

Originally posted by trxstr1961
......why does the right rear arm mount always ovalized on the chassis and not the left?......

As to why it does it on the left, you probably are in the habit of running with your slipper tight. If the slipper is tight the torque of the engine is going to always put a little more strain on the right than the left because the drive gears, namely the pinion and spur, are on that side and it's where all the power enters the tranny (any ofther explanation?)

If your slipper is set to give just a little, it will soften the impact of full power on the drive train. You may not be able to do wheelies but your chassis holes and all your other drive train parts will live a lot longer, your off-the-line hard starts will be straight, and you'll have a lot more traction in corners.

BTW have you noticed when you nail the throttle from a dead start it wants to veer off to the left a tad? Same issue, the rear right wheel is getting a little more of the force.

Originally posted by TommyT
.....Just wondering if there is a RC10GT FAQ?.....We could all benefit from this and it would limit the number of repeditive posts.

This plea is as old as the concept of the bulletin board and will never change. Even if it were in place people would never use it, it is far easier to blurt out the same question that's been asked a million times. :D If I want to find out about CVEC pipes, all I have to do is push the search button at the top, select Nitro Forums, and type "CVEC," and there's more info there than I'd ever want or need . . . . but even so there are currently three threads on the first two pages of the Nitro forum asking about CVEC's. And what motor to buy. And This vs. That. And "what should I get for Christmas?" . . . LOL . . . guess ya just hafta get used to it. :D

ross

12-05-2002, 12:59 PM

Originally posted by boricua racing
does a rear exhaust engine fit in a factory team gt? what maninfold and pipe do i need?

Use the new Losi Adam Drake rear exhaust manifold because it was designed to be used in truck so it doesnt rub on the body. You can use any pipe you want.

atm92484_3

12-05-2002, 01:33 PM

Boricua, Trinity also makes a special truck manifold. Its part number RC8125.

A few months back, I remember one guy ran a 12 TR in his GT. Has anyone else tried one since?

Dan H

12-05-2002, 04:01 PM

My friend ran an MT12 in his GT. Seriously overpowered on our track. He was using the Mugen header and also had an RB header. Both headers extended the body of the truck outwards since it didn't fit well under it.

NewToNitro

12-05-2002, 07:56 PM

Heres a shot of my GT
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid41/p3c14f5a990c7e588739a3419e23948c3/fcf7627c.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid41/p16e8024992337633c761da5f53160acf/fcf76261.jpg

joke_one

12-06-2002, 12:37 AM

Originally posted by TommyT
Hi All,

I just have a few comments concerning mail order vs. hobby shops.

Back in the 80's I used to work in a hobby shop. Back then and even today it is a very tough business. It was very hard to compete with mail order especially Tower Hobbies and eventually the store I worked for went out of business.

I've seen many people come in look at a model, ask many questions and then leave only to buy it from a mail order company to save a few dollars. That's just not right and these stores don't get paid for being mail orders product support.

Hey, I'm not made out of money, I have to strech my hobby dollars and I'm always looking to save a dime but, I also know that I need to support my local hobby shops. One day I may need something quick or I may want to check out that "Hot New Racer" but guess what, Petes Hobby Shop down the street is out of business.

Many hobby shops, even if they don't advertise it, are willing to match mail order prices. Ask!

My philosophy is this: If I want to buy something I always go to my local hobby shop first. I tell him that I want to buy a high dollar item and ask if he is willing to match mail order prices.I have never found a shop that wouldn't. Yea, I may have to pay a few dollars more for tax as opposed to shipping but that's the price I'm willing pay to support my hobby shop and to have the item that day. He's happy and I'm happy to have my new toy.

One other thing. You go to the shop but guess what he doesn't have what you are looking for but tells you that he can order it for you. You think to yourself well, I can just order it myself then and save myself a trip back to the store. Personally I like going to the hobby shop. Looking at all the neat toys that I can't afford but dream about. I also enjoy talking to the employees and have them show me what's new.

Give the hobby shops a chance.

Sorry for the long post.
TommyT
Miami, Fl

i totally agree, going to the hobbie shop is way better then mail order i say this for a few reasons.
1. i know every one at the hobbie shop (martys hobbies in thousand oaks, ca)
2. since i know every one there i get a 10% discount on anything i buy there.
3. they never hesitate to work on my cars/truck for free.
4. i've gotten a free carb/piston and sleeve for my nitro 4-tec
5. most of those guys are effing rad anyway.

support your local hobbie shop. not large chains or mail order.

Wallis Racing

12-06-2002, 08:03 AM

Originally posted by Dan H
...the Mugen header and also had an RB header. Both headers extended the body of the truck outwards since it didn't fit well under it.

Most rear exhaust headers will push the body out in a truck, and like Ross said, you could use the Adam Drake header, cause it is made for a truck, but then you have a yucky GREEN header on your nice BLUE truck:rolleyes:

One of the best headers i have seen is the Mugen Truck header, the one used on the new mugen truck(DAH!), it is like, tiny! and sits about 10-20mm off the body cause it is so compact.
I guess this is a different header to the one Dan is talking about, cause like i said, this header is really really compact. One of my mates is running this header with his X12 and it doesnt seem to be any more or less powerfull then my X12 with a wide nova header which pushes the body out almost to the wheel. one day when i can be bothered i will upgrade to the mugen header but till then i can live with my body sticking out a bit :rolleyes:

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)