Associated RC10GT Forum v5.0

[1tuffRC10]

Before you get that 62 spur be prepared to slot the chassis to get the gears to mesh. I tried a 60 and the engine would not go back enough. It was hitting the gear box brace. Try a 14 clutch if you want that bottom end punch. Also lighter tires or smaller diameter tires will give you more take off.

[atm92484_3]

If you get pullstart engine mounts, that will allow you to use the smaller spurs. It sits the engine up higher and closer to the spur.

[The King]

I will try the clutch gear and see what that gives me:D

[Tstalion79]

Kingtime- Are you the same guy who is on all the paintball boards and does the airbrushing? If so, you airbrushed one of my hoppers once!

[The King]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
Kingtime- Are you the same guy who is on all the paintball boards and does the airbrushing? If so, you airbrushed one of my hoppers once!
What a small world, I am the one. I don't paintball anymore. I am getting into r/c racing.:)

[Tstalion79]

Yeah i dropped paintball a little while ago...one too many welts:p

I cant wait to see your RC bodies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[sosidge]

driller - since you're coming from a 645, the 945 or 5945 would make more sense - the 925 and 5925 are much quicker, but have less torque.

The "5" series servo's are the digital versions, slightly better perfomance, but only worth buying if your budget allows.

As far as futaba goes (i think you mean the 9402), yes the quality is better, but the prices are very high, and the performance of that servo is about the same as the hitec 925.

[wannabee]

Driller- I run the 5925 and I love it. I felt the speed was worth the trade off for torque. This is because the torque is still way more than enough for the GT.

[driller]

:confused: damn i can't make my mind up!:confused:

hitec toruqe 5945 vs speed 5925 or should i just by a futaba 9402?

ok help my out a little more please!

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Whats a good replacement engine for the rc10gt? I am looking for a reliable, easy to tune engine for bashing under $150 bucks.

Thanks,
One_mean_rc10gt

[OldskoolGT]

Driller,

I'd go for the 5925. IMHO only monster trucks need the torque of the 5945. I run 5925s in 1/8 buggy and my gas truks and definitely think it has enough torque.

One_mean_rc10gt,

Check out the OS CV-R engines. Good power and O.S. quality. Nuff said. :)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by driller
.....replaced clutch nut problem solved.....
SWEET! LOL

. . . futaba servo would you guy's suggest are they more durable than hitec the futaba S9402 looks interesting! . . .

Again, few pages back, big discussion on servos, I swear by the 9204: 110 oz/in torque to hold wheels on hard corners, .11 sec speed for fast response, all metal gears, BB's, coreless, expensive but great for a truck, but sosidge is probably correct, I have not used anything else. :D


.....I want to be more quick then fast.... Higher spur gear teeth and smaller pinions are going to give you more low-end "quickness," the opposite for top-end speed, but as stated there aresome issues with going one direction or the other with the GT, there's not a whole lot of room to play with without modification.

[sosidge]

Originally posted by driller
:confused: damn i can't make my mind up!:confused:

hitec toruqe 5945 vs speed 5925 or should i just by a futaba 9402?

ok help my out a little more please!

If those other guys are happy with their 5925 - take their advice!

[The King]

I am going to be racing my R/C 10gt on and off road. I need to know what are some of the rules I need to pay attention to.:confused:

[Tstalion79]

there arent too many written rules, but you should know that it is very important to NOT be a hack (i.e. someone who crashes into the other racers). That gets VERY irritating so just try to give the better drivers some space around the track (if you cause them to break or lose a position due to hitting them they will become very unfreindly very quickly). Other than that you should be set.

[atm92484_3]

Wait, you aren't supposed to run people into boards? What are those RPM bumpers for then? :D

[trxstr1961]

Hey 1 tuff, get ahold of me if u can, i need to ask u something.

aol:mity pedestr
yahoo:trx1

[ross]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
there arent too many written rules, but you should know that it is very important to NOT be a hack (i.e. someone who crashes into the other racers). That gets VERY irritating so just try to give the better drivers some space around the track (if you cause them to break or lose a position due to hitting them they will become very unfreindly very quickly). Other than that you should be set.


Yeah, I was going to say just that. If you take someone out then if you apoligise you should be fine. :)



Ross.

[1tuffRC10]

Ask your q. That is what this forum is for LOL. You can email me at RC10RULES@aol. BTW I am usually on line after 6 est if you want to IM.

[trxstr1961]

want to sell your 60t spur?? im need ing it for our nds's.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I.....I need to know what are some of the rules I need to pay attention to......

For sanctioned races:

http://www.roarracing.com/rules/index.htm (ROAR)
http://www.norrca.com/rules.html (NORRCA)

The below is more advice than rules.

For non-sanctioned races and general:

Politeness and awareness of other drivers is the key, if there's one area to watch it's following someone into corners. People FORGET the car ahead of them is going to slow down; don't use them as a brake! :D

Don't get upset at anything, for any reason, especially the turn marshals. Remember it's supposed to be fun, if you're pi$$ed you're not having fun.

For bashing around in public:

Give the hobby a good name, don't pi$$ anyone off by chasing their cat, burning up their driveway at 6 AM, and take precautions so that on one gets hurt no matter what, including bashed ankles.

STAY OFF THE STREET. the urge is irresistible, especially if you have nowhere to run, but not only are curbs unforgiving if a car has a mishap trying to avoid your RC, you are liable. Secondly full-scale cars come up quickly: you were looking that way, they come from this way, you swung wide, oooh look! you now have a door mat for an RC. :D

Above all the number one rule HAVE FUN! It's mandatory.

[1tuffRC10]

Sorry but I'll have to hang on to it. I am in the process of building a new truck and I am trying not to disasemble my old one. I can't race the 60 but it will work for a play truck. Rockinbill, do I know you?

[trxstr1961]

DARN! :( ty anyways tho :)

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!! :)

[Ford850]

I need to cut the crankshaft on a .15 CV-X to fit it in a RC10gt. My question is do I leave the drive hub on or do I take it off?

[atm92484_3]

Take the drivewasher off. Its sort of tradition why they include the part (some older vehicles need them), but no new vehicles use the part.

[jkinosh]

I have the RTR Plus, and recently lond a bearing and the clutch nut e clip, I was wondering what the size of the e clip is and if I can get these at a hardware store, since my LHS doesn't have them in stock and won't be getting them until after christmas. I just cannot find out what the size of these should be.

Thanks,

Jacob :confused:

[Railman]

Ford,
If you mean the flywheel, the answer is yes. You should also have any washers needed to get the proper alignment for the gear alignment installed. Then you just put the special shaft cut nut on in place of the clutch shaft extension nut. Hope that makes sense.
Joe

[Ford850]

Originally posted by Ford850
I need to cut the crankshaft on a .15 CV-X to fit it in a RC10gt. My question is do I leave the drive hub on or do I take it off?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LL7617&P=1

I'am talking about the gray pice that goes over the cracnkshaft piece

[Railman]

Ford,
If your talking about the aluninum piece that comes with the engine ( like the one in the tower pict), that's a propeller mount, & doesn't get used with an rc car. You need to put on the tapered collet (or corn), & the aluminum GT flywheel, & then the special cut nut. I don't know if you need the additional shim washer against the crank bearing with the OS CV or not. I always custom shim the flywheel (between flywheel & engine bearing) as much as is needed to get the clutch bell to align with the spur gear, regardless of what a manual might say. If you don't have a manual, you might want to check the Associated site for more details.
Joe

[Ford850]

Thank you for the information Railman, that is just what I needed to know.
:D

[hoytshooter]

I have upgraded a RTR to factory team equipment plus some additional hop ups. My last hop up was an OS 12cv-rx. I am still useing the RTR pipe though and the car doesn't seem to have as much punch as it did with the original engine. Will the Factory Team pipe help much or am I missing something else?

[trxstr1961]

should i get the factory team chassis up grade or another rtr chassis??

rear holes have went from this: o to this:0

which is the better deal, since in=m going to running onroad only with it from now on??

[one_mean_rc10gt]

I have a blue RTR chassis. No holes are rounded out and it is not bent. It has scratches on the bottom for normal offroad use. Comes with pullstart motor mount and front brace mounts.

How about $20.00 shipped?

LMK @ one_mean_rc10gt@hotmail.com

I also have the stock body ok shape I will throw in with the chassis.

[1tuffRC10]

I posted this earlier but a 3/16 external circlip will work instead of the e clip. It is harder to remove but they are available at most hardware stores. I can put two of them on together. BTW it works great!

[driller]

I want to get a peak charger for 5 cell Rx & 8 cell Tx packs would like to know what everyone else is using pros & cons
what not to buy how long will it take to charge individual packs etc,etc,etc. *I want a lot of input please! *


does anyone have one of these Great Planes Triton DC Computerized Peak Charger

thanks for the help with my steering servo questions bought the 5945 digital
Robert

[dog8spam]

I am looking for a new .12 rear exhust engine, my OS burned up afet stripping a spur gear. The brakes couldn't hold it and it just ran freely until I got to it. Do I need to change how I have my linkages setup or is this just another risk?

Right now I am looking at some Mugen engines, are I can use any info you have on them.

I dont know what to do with my CV- should I get the Duratrax sleeve/piston or OS? The OS is 65, ABA, but mine lasted 7-8 gallons of 10%. The Duratrax is 20, ABC, but how long could it last for 20 dollars?

[Polk]

I am getting my RC10GT Plus RTR soon (when it arrives) and since it takes about 4 weeks for things to arrive in my crappy country (New Zeland) which parts am i most likley to break? Which will i need to order now so i dont havre to wait a long time if i break something?

Thanks

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by dog8spam
I am looking for a new .12 rear exhust engine, my OS burned up afet stripping a spur gear. The brakes couldn't hold it and it just ran freely until I got to it. Do I need to change how I have my linkages setup or is this just another risk?

Right now I am looking at some Mugen engines, are I can use any info you have on them.

I dont know what to do with my CV- should I get the Duratrax sleeve/piston or OS? The OS is 65, ABA, but mine lasted 7-8 gallons of 10%. The Duratrax is 20, ABC, but how long could it last for 20 dollars?

I've gotten my Duratrax to last around 1-1 1/2 gallons per p/s

now this last one I've gotten(on my 4th one) has lasted 3 gallons.. depends on if you get a matched pair or not.

but I would invest in a better motor though. Should check out the STS MT12

[atm92484_3]

Dog, I think you're looking at the 12 CV-R pistons and sleeves, not the 12 CV ones. The 12 CV/CZ ones run around $45. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJ10&P=7 If you're going to rebuild the engine, I'd do it right though. From my experience working at a hobby shop, Duratrax and precision don't exactly go hand in hand; spend the extra bucks for the better quality O.S. sleeve.

Polk, the GT doesn't require too many replacement parts to be kept on hand since its a pretty durable and reliable truck. I would reccomend keeping some extra spur gears. I'm a fan of the Robinson Racing machined plastic ones. While you're ordering, get another set of arms, front steering knuckles, and the front steering blocks.

[speedydave]

I've been planning on selling my GT so I can race my 1/8 more, but I just spotted this( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUU27&P=0 ), and now I don't know any more...damn indecisiveness. :(

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by speedydave
I've been planning on selling my GT so I can race my 1/8 more, but I just spotted this( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUU27&P=0 ), and now I don't know any more...damn indecisiveness. :(

Hmmm, I guess OS is lowering there prices on there motors now..

now that makes it even more harder for me to decide on a new motor.

[Polk]

is it possible to substitue from other vehicles? Not permantly just until the new part comes in.

How often and how do you break these parts?

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by Polk
is it possible to substitue from other vehicles? Not permantly just until the new part comes in.

How often and how do you break these parts?

The only thing I really broke on my Gt where spur gears..lots

and rear shock shafts.

the front arms do wear a bit, but should last you awhile...

[1tuffRC10]

After racing my GT for almost two seasons I've found out a couple of things that I would do to a new GT. The ball cups would be the first to go. Encaptured ends from Traxxas work well. RPM arms are much more flexible but on the rear they tend to be a little too flexible for racing. The clutch clips have been posted already. A Trinity tranny brace is almost a must if you get any air. I also run the MIP steering kit but I have been told that it is no good for racing. Not sure why but I still run it with a large servo saver for an 1/8 scale. If you are just bashing or racing the main thing is to have fun. IMO working on my GT is not as much fun as driving it so that is why I use the circlips on the clutch and encaptured ends. Just little things that keep it on the track...

[1tuffRC10]

Do you think that OS as seen the light or they have a new CV-R comming out? Dog8spam, I have a OS TR on my GT right now. There is a long story behind it but there is a CV-R piston in it right now. The story starts with a lost air filter on an engine with about 5 tanks through it, very sad, but it lives now. Anyhow I found that a losi rear exhaust manifold works best. The others either stuck out too far or sit too low. The TR is a great engine IMO. It seems to turn more rpm than a CV-R so I can run a smaller clutch bell to get more bottom end and not lose as much on top.

[Ford850]

I'm Having trouble adjusting the brake on my GT. When I apply the brake to the GT it will just coast instead of stopping. The only way I can get it to stop is by turning in a circle. Is this normal? Is there a way to lock up the wheels by using the brake?

Thanks,
Calvin

[1tuffRC10]

Ford850 I don't use the stock brakes but I don't set my brakes to lock up. Check your reciever pack voltage. Maybe a servo going weak. Not sure what else to tell you. Let us know.

[atm92484_3]

I'm guessing the CV-Rs are going for such a low price since Tower wants to clear them out. They're more than likely over stocked and they want to make room in the warehouse for the new stuff for 2003.

I need your opinion guys. Should I replace my current FT GT with a new truck or just replace all the worn parts that have seen a little too much action? In the end, the new truck will cost about $50 more than all the replacement parts (you know its bad when even the CVDs have play in them and the teflon coated shocks are only teflon coated on 3/4 of the body!) Ehh I guess thats what 3 years of hard driving does to a truck...especially when parts aren't constantly replaced.

[RooK]

Need some help.

I just got the RTR Plus, my first nitro, and finally got around to trying to start it today.

Here's the problem. When I started cranking it, it would never fire. So I started looking around and found fuel was not flowing from the tank to the carb. No matter what I do, I cant get fuel to flow through that line. There were no air leaks that I could tell.

Did I miss something, or do I have a defective tank?

[JCason]

I used to have the same problem. Make sure 1. the exhaust is connected all the way ans 2. push the fuel line into the exhaust more. both those things were wrong with mine. I normally just bring a dropper along also and if I have to I put a few drops into the carb so it will start up quick.

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by RooK
Need some help.

I just got the RTR Plus, my first nitro, and finally got around to trying to start it today.

Here's the problem. When I started cranking it, it would never fire. So I started looking around and found fuel was not flowing from the tank to the carb. No matter what I do, I cant get fuel to flow through that line. There were no air leaks that I could tell.

Did I miss something, or do I have a defective tank?

Sicne you have a pull start..the motor needs primed some.


Here's what ya can do. before putting your inighter on, put your finger over the pipe and give about 2-3 pulls which will draw the fuel in the line and some in the motor, then put the inighter on, and start the truck..

[RooK]

I tried both those, that's what gets me. Fuel just won't go through the line that runs from the tank to the carb. Defective tank perhaps?

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by RooK
I tried both those, that's what gets me. Fuel just won't go through the line that runs from the tank to the carb. Defective tank perhaps?

Take the line out of the pipe, and blow in it, and see if fuel goes through the line leading to the carb...that be the best way to tell if its the tank or not.

[The King]

I too have the rtr with a os motor. the only way it will start is if i put gas in the carb. I know this isn't normal so what seems to be the problem?

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I too have the rtr with a os motor. the only way it will start is if i put gas in the carb. I know this isn't normal so what seems to be the problem?

Are you priming the carb? if you are, are you making sure your getting enough fuel into the carb and not just the line?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I'm guessing the CV-Rs are going for such a low price since Tower wants to clear them out. They're more than likely over stocked and they want to make room in the warehouse for the new stuff for 2003.

I need your opinion guys. Should I replace my current FT GT with a new truck or just replace all the worn parts that have seen a little too much action? In the end, the new truck will cost about $50 more than all the replacement parts (you know its bad when even the CVDs have play in them and the teflon coated shocks are only teflon coated on 3/4 of the body!) Ehh I guess thats what 3 years of hard driving does to a truck...especially when parts aren't constantly replaced.
id keep you gt for a while cause a while ago people were saying there was a new gt comin out and its gotta come out with in the next 3 months if its gonna be around for the start of the racing season. even if its just an upgrade kit or somthing it would be cheaper to buy it as a new kit. but if u dont want to wait id buy a new ft kit cause here nothing like the feel and smell of a new kit and it looks all pretty before u run it.

[Polk]

So what im hearing guys is i will need to get the following:

Spur Gears (Make sure engine mounts are tight and use threadlock! This should reduce stripping of them?)

Ball cups (Can be popped right back in, but can get quite annoying. Encaptured ends from traxxas work well?)

A-Arms (For when i slam into those soccer goals or land the wrong way!)

Rear Shock Shafts (?)

Trinity Tranny Brace (?)

I will be using this truck for bashing and jumps cause there is no off-road (as far as i know) clubs in my city, it anything even my country. (new zealand)

:/
Thanks

[The King]

Originally posted by FleaUDP
Are you priming the carb? if you are, are you making sure your getting enough fuel into the carb and not just the line?
I am running the stinger exhaust with the os .15 motor. I am running the pressure line from the exhaust straight to the gas tank. Should there be a loop in my line?

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by Polk
So what im hearing guys is i will need to get the following:

Spur Gears (Make sure engine mounts are tight and use threadlock! This should reduce stripping of them?)

Ball cups (Can be popped right back in, but can get quite annoying. Encaptured ends from traxxas work well?)

A-Arms (For when i slam into those soccer goals or land the wrong way!)

Rear Shock Shafts (?)

Trinity Tranny Brace (?)

I will be using this truck for bashing and jumps cause there is no off-road (as far as i know) clubs in my city, it anything even my country. (new zealand)

:/
Thanks

Another thing that no one has mention and is a must is rear alum arm mounts...there about 25-30 form Tower.. But if you can wait til the end of Jan, I'm going to be selling them for about 15-20 a pair. along with the upper deck that was mention a few post ago.

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I am running the stinger exhaust with the os .15 motor. I am running the pressure line from the exhaust straight to the gas tank. Should there be a loop in my line?

naaa...since its already running to the rear of the truck, it has a good length to it already...

You can also tried what I said a few post ago, about blowing into the pressure line to see if it going into the line to the carb..

[RooK]

Originally posted by FleaUDP
Take the line out of the pipe, and blow in it, and see if fuel goes through the line leading to the carb...that be the best way to tell if its the tank or not.

No go. Better see about getting Associated to send me a new tank.

[1tuffRC10]

Check your low end setting. It sounds like it may be too lean causing the needle to bottom out at idle. They will run like hell like that but will overheat when setting at idle. Also you may want to take out the top end screw and blow through it, be sure to run it in counting the turns first so you can put it back in the same place. Also be sure you are not putting the pressure hose too far into the pipe. It can reach the other side of the pipe and block itself.

[Ford850]

When I apply to brake the disk brake will lock up while the spur gear keeps on turning. Is this normal?

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by Ford850
When I apply to brake the disk brake will lock up while the spur gear keeps on turning. Is this normal?

check to see if the pin poped out the the adaptor, or it could have shreaded the adaptor and ya would need a new one.

[vector]

what do any of you people think of the MIP lite drives for the GT. should I get them or should i get the stock ones.

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by vector
what do any of you people think of the MIP lite drives for the GT. should I get them or should i get the stock ones.

I've never had a prob with mine, and I've seen the lite drive rip apart

[Ford850]

Originally posted by FleaUDP
check to see if the pin poped out the the adaptor, or it could have shreaded the adaptor and ya would need a new one.

I checked the the pin and the adaptor, both of them was fine. Do you know if there is anything else I can check. I have a team built GT. I only ran it two times.

Thanks

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by Ford850
I checked the the pin and the adaptor, both of them was fine. Do you know if there is anything else I can check. I have a team built GT. I only ran it two times.

Thanks

your slipper could be too loose

[dog8spam]

How the heck do you ruin rear shock shafts?

I like to choke the carb rather than the pipe. By using the carb no air comes in so you get a good shot of fuel rather than a little at a time.

One last question, what is that about needing a Trinity tranny brace? (somewhere on 240)

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by dog8spam
How the heck do you ruin rear shock shafts?

I like to choke the carb rather than the pipe. By using the carb no air comes in so you get a good shot of fuel rather than a little at a time.

One last question, what is that about needing a Trinity tranny brace? (somewhere on 240)

rear shock shaft..landing a big jump the wrong way..did that about 3 months ago..

the rear tranny brace helps stiffen the tranny and bulkhead as 1 unit to keep the rear from flexing to much.

[Wallis Racing]

Ok, a few things for ya all.

ATM:
I'm not real sure why the CV-R prices have gone down, but its not just tower that ha lowered them. begining of this year i bought a CV-RX in aus for $350, and now they are only $250, maybe even cheaper, and its not the aussie $, cause it hasnt changed THAT much this year, so i dont know why they are cheaper, but its not to do with clearing out old stock, maybe they have a new line of engines coming out that will be better then the CV-R and TR series:confused:

also, with regards to your FTGT, i would say just spend some money of fixing it up. my is only 4 moths old, but cause im soo hard on it, after 3 months i had bent shafts, no more teflon on my shocks, my CVD's are bent and have HEAPS of play (prolly from my X12), almost all the screws would need to be put back in after every 1/2 tank cause all the holes were striped out, i got a bent chassis, bent front chassis brace tubes, all sorts of stuff wrong with it. so i bough a big heap of stuff, about 250us worth. all RPM, MIP, RRP, all sorts of stuff. all the RPM made my truck heaps stronger and stoped all the screws falling out cause i got rid of the old pieces of plastic. i bought MIP shiney bones, cause the holes in the stock bones were ovalised, this fixed all the slop, i got a full RRP tranny(spur, CB, topshaft, idler gear, main diff gear) a new diff case, and all sorts of stuff, and now the only probs with my GT is that i just blew up my engine cause i am able to use it soo much more now thats it is reliable. so just fix it up, and it'll be like new with half the money of a new truck. oh yeah, i love the rpm stuff, because its only like $2 MAX more then a stock replacement, and its all garentyed for life:D


Polk:
SPURS:
get a few spare spurs, they are always handy, but a spur will last for ever if you treat it right. i never striped a plastic spur, but i got a steal one anyway. i dont under stand how all these people have wrecked soo many spurs. just check and make sure its set up right. but like i said, get 1 or 2 spares to be safe, incase your engine takes a hit and moved, or you have a WOT runaway or sumfin.

BALL CUPS:
Grab a set of RPM ball cups, only set you back about $10nz, so its nothing big, but they work excelent!

ARMS:
Either grab a couple of stock sets, or if you can, get some RPM ones, like i said above, RPM stuff is only like $2 more then stock stuff, so you might as well get it, plus its garentyed for life! but if you cant, get at least 2-3 sets of rear arms, cause the stock ones are reasonably weak, but the front ones are pretty good, so you will only need 1 or 2 sets max.

SHOCK SHAFTS:
i would not worry about the shafts, i have bent one, but that was from racing, where i got rear ending, but if you just bashing, i highly doubt you will bend any, they are pretty good.

Trinity Tranny Brace:
almost a must. Costs a bit for us non-USers, but its worth it. the stock one turns to this shape ~ after about 1 week, and is then useless, and if you get an alloy one the same shap as the stock one, you will break bulkheads and diff cases, so you need thet kinwald trinity one, because it scres into the same places as the stock one, but also scres into the brake bracket.

Also, i recomend you get a spare rear bulkhead, the stock one WILL break eventually, so have a spare waiting, or get the indistructable RPM one.

and fleaupd said to look at the alloy rear arm mounts, but i would not bother. the only probs i had with the stock ones was that i striped out the holes, so the scres would not stay in, then i got the RPM ones and they have nuts on top of the screws, so they are sweet, but i would not worry.

Vector:
keep away from the MIP light drives, unless you are running a low poered engine. anything like a CV-R or better will rip appart the light drives in time, and they are not worth the tiny, tiny accel increase they willl bring.

anyways, gotta rest my hands,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[The King]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I am running the stinger exhaust with the OS .15 cvr motor. I am running the pressure line from the exhaust straight to the gas tank. Should there be a loop in my line?
does anybody know, Should there be a loop in the line? In the video they reccomend using a loop but that is with there exhaust and there motor. I have the .15 motor with the stinger exhaust. So I again say should there be a loop on the pressure line? The only problems I am having is getting it started. I put a few drops of gas in the carb then I have no problem. I don't think this is the way this should be done. Can anyone help me out go GREEN BAY PACKERS:D

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
[COLOR=blue]

ATM:
I'm not real sure why the CV-R prices have gone down.....COLOR]

There is the CV-R-Ts coming out (I guess thats what they'll be called once they release the turbo version). Not sure if this would effect the pricing though since they aren't really in the same class.

[OldskoolGT]

Regarding the cheap CV-R prices, sometimes Tower hobbies just sells overstocked stuff really cheap. I remember buying a .12 CV from them about 1 year ago for $54.

ATM,

I would just spend the $50 extra and buy a new kit. You can't beat that new car smell, and that would probably leave you with more than $50 in spare parts so you would come out ahead.

[1tuffRC10]

king AE says to run beyween 6 and 8 inches of pressure line. I have heard several reasons to run a little more than that. A coil in the line as high as you can get it to stay will get the line out of the way for fueling and will keep fuel out of it.

[bad6as]

HEY KINGIT i think the more line form the gas tank to the pipe the more low end (i think) or visa versa. try cleaning out the live form the tank to the carb

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by kingitme69
does anybody know, Should there be a loop in the line? In the video they reccomend using a loop but that is with there exhaust and there motor. I have the .15 motor with the stinger exhaust. So I again say should there be a loop on the pressure line? The only problems I am having is getting it started. I put a few drops of gas in the carb then I have no problem. I don't think this is the way this should be done. Can anyone help me out go GREEN BAY PACKERS:D

I've used Stingers on many .12CV, .15.CV, Pro.15, .12CV-R, Mugen MT.12 and if there was a loop on any of them then if was by chance. :eek:

They never had a problem!!

[speedydave]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
ATM,

I would just spend the $50 extra and buy a new kit. You can't beat that new car smell, and that would probably leave you with more than $50 in spare parts so you would come out ahead.

Plus, you get a nice, shiny, non-scratched up chassis! :D

[X-Tee Ha !]

I've got myself a nice new RC10GT kit, they DO smell nice don't they :D

Does anyone have any advise on how to fit a rear exhaust motor into it? Is there a well known "donor" vehicle header? I'd like to use the AE blue pipe if possible cuz it's so very well finished ! :D

Anyone done this?

Any pictures?

Ta !

(It's a non pullstart chassis)

[speedydave]

Well, the Mugen MST-1 header should work, as will the Losi(supposedly). The Trinity header works fine, but sits a little low, to the point where it may be in a dangerous place. The Mugen MTX-2 header works, too, but you have to cut out a lot of the rear part of the body for it to work. I'd say the Losi is your best bet. You can still use whatever pipe you want with any of these headers.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
king AE says to run beyween 6 and 8 inches of pressure line. I have heard several reasons to run a little more than that. A coil in the line as high as you can get it to stay will get the line out of the way for fueling and will keep fuel out of it.
Thanks guys, Looks like I will be heading to the hobby shop to get me some line:D

[Polk]

Wallis Racing - You da man!!!!!!!!!

You have said everything i needed to know!
Now the only porblem is, wimpering about how the shipping cost is more than the cost for the product!!!

What is the full name for a trinity tranny brace? And where can i get it?

Thanks guys

[1tuffRC10]

The tranny brace I run is the Kinwald version. It has six mounting holes in it. XTee ha, As for the rear exhaust, the Losi header works great. You can use any pipe with it but I do run the Drake edition with some mods. The Losi header clears everything, no need to modify anything and it has two mounting springs, some of the others have only one.

[Polk]

i have looked around and found it on tower for i think $20 US, its gonna cost me more to ship than for the product itself!

[widgetrcman]

will a trinity, sirio, or novarossi engine fit in a factory team n/ps rc10gt??

[dog8spam]

I still dont see why you need a better tranny brace- how can the chassis flex so much it warps the brace, and how can an aluminum piece make such a difference in such a low stress area. I have had the same tranny brace for five years have had no problems.

Anyway Widget, any .12 will fit as long as its not marine or for the air.

[atm92484_3]

It isn't so much the flex but rather the support given to the rear bulkhead. It just makes everything more rigid and puts the force of rear hits over a larger area.

[Wallis Racing]

POLK:
http://www.teamtrinity.com/accessories/images/TK/TK1500.jpg
Trinity Team Kinwald, GT UPPER TRANNY BRACE, blue aluminum, part #1500, and its around $19.95us

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[X-Tee Ha !]

Thanks SpeedyDave

:)

[ross]

Hi Guys,

Does anyone use the Crenzenci drum brake on thier GT's, I have just fitted one and they seem to be better than the disk brake but I havent tried it with the truck running yet.

I hope everyone has a great christmas and a happy new year. Ill be breaking my new engine in tommorow, (I took advantage of the CVR's goin cheap at tower :))



Ross.

[The King]

Originally posted by ross
Hi Guys,

Does anyone use the Crenzenci drum brake on thier GT's, I have just fitted one and they seem to be better than the disk brake but I havent tried it with the truck running yet.

I hope everyone has a great christmas and a happy new year. Ill be breaking my new engine in tommorow, (I took advantage of the CVR's goin cheap at tower :))



Ross.
Hey Ross
Let me know what you think of the new brake system. That looks like it could be one of my next upgrades as well.

Also I would like to thank all the people whom shared their knowledge with me on my GT. I now have it running with no problems.:D

Remember the reason for the season=)
Keep it safe
D.King

[1tuffRC10]

I use a brake system very similar to that system. It works great, no fade. The man that made mine races also. He can drive! He explained it to me something like this, set the brake where it will not lock up unless you sling the truck sideways. You want it as tight as you can get it without it locking up. King, what turned out to be the problem on your GT? Some one else may have the same problem some day! Merry Christmas to all you RC Heads! Have fun playing with your new GT's that Santa brought. See you at the track next year!

[dog8spam]

I have a Chrechenzi in my GT, its horrible for backyard thrashing sometimes it has trouble locking up, especially if it gets wet. You cant judge what it will do without running the car. I havn't been to a track yet, this season will be the first in five years therell be a track within five hours of my house. The system works smoothly and doesn't lock up as fast which I hope will be good on the track.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I use a brake system very similar to that system. It works great, no fade. The man that made mine races also. He can drive! He explained it to me something like this, set the brake where it will not lock up unless you sling the truck sideways. You want it as tight as you can get it without it locking up. King, what turned out to be the problem on your GT? Some one else may have the same problem some day! Merry Christmas to all you RC Heads! Have fun playing with your new GT's that Santa brought. See you at the track next year!
Hey 1tuffRC10 The problem was this, I was not priming the engie the correct way. Now what I do is put my finger over the stinger exhaust tip give the motor about 3 pulls and BAM let the fun begin:D Thanks again. Next upgrade is the brake system:cool:

[widgetrcman]

what modifications will i have to do to make the crankshaft work in a gt? i know that they are supposed to use a short shaft only, so i was wondering if i would have to cut it or something.

[dog8spam]

Page 91, for some reason I remember that but I'll get off the computer and forget what I'm doing.:D

[The King]

What should I get next the Chrechenzi Brake system or the MIP
CVDs? I will be getting both sooner or later :D

[FleaUDP]

I would just like to wish everyone a Happy Hoilday and a merry Christmas

[Polk]

I need the following:
RPM Ball cups
RPM Front A-Arms
RPM Rear A-Arms
Trinity Tranny Brace
Spur Gears

Can i please have the EXACT part numbers, and for the spur gear the amount of 'teeth' on it. (get me?) So i know which ones to bargin my LHS to get for me.

[JCason]

Ok guys, just got a $50 gift certificate to my LHS for Christmas. Help me spend it!! I have a RC10GT plus I bought about 2 months ago. Only upgrades are a 1150 mah receiver pack, a RPM receiver cover and a MG steering servo with 100 oz of torque. What does everyone suggest? I am almost positive I will get the new RPM front bumper since this is a basher car. What else? RPM front and rear a-arms? MIP CVDs? Trinity Tranny Brace? Help me out guys.

[atm92484_3]

Defiently get the bumper since you're bashing. CVDs are optional, but I would get RPM arms all around since they're pretty much unbreakable. An RPM rear bulkhead would also be a good investment.

[JCason]

Thanks atm, I am gonna get all 4 a arms for sure. What about the tranny brace or a MIP 4 in 1 clutch? I might just get me some Masher 2000 tires also. Anything guys? I still have $20 inspent plus just got $40 cash that I might spend on the car too.

[JCason]

Also, does anyone know of a tool to help get e-clips on and off easier and if so where can I get it, price, and part number

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by JCason
Also, does anyone know of a tool to help get e-clips on and off easier and if so where can I get it, price, and part number

getting them off... use either a small flat head screw driver...or you can use a dime...both work taking the clips off


and pilairs(sp) is what i use to put em with...

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by JCason
What about the tranny brace or a MIP 4 in 1 clutch?....

I'd get the MIP clutch. It will make a world of difference in the way the truck accelerates and idles.

[1tuffRC10]

King, glad you got it running. Sometimes it's hard to help people on here because you don't know all of the details. I figure if you put out all the possibilities maybe one will be the ticket. I also run the MIP clutch. I like it better than the stock two shoe set up but I have heard several people, faster than I, say the four shoe clutch is smoother. I haven't tried one yet, still like the MIP. Only problem with the MIP is if you lose a clutch bearing you will tear up the holes in the shoes and it will not work as well. Can't say a single thimg good about RPM ball cups. I have tried nearly every combination of cups and balls. Stock was much better. Don't use them now, as I said before, encaptured ends will stay on. If you do hit something hard enough, you will break! We have been getting 5 to 6 feet of air so ball cups will take you out quick.

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
King, glad you got it running. Sometimes it's hard to help people on here because you don't know all of the details. I figure if you put out all the possibilities maybe one will be the ticket. I also run the MIP clutch. I like it better than the stock two shoe set up but I have heard several people, faster than I, say the four shoe clutch is smoother. I haven't tried one yet, still like the MIP. Only problem with the MIP is if you lose a clutch bearing you will tear up the holes in the shoes and it will not work as well. Can't say a single thimg good about RPM ball cups. I have tried nearly every combination of cups and balls. Stock was much better. Don't use them now, as I said before, encaptured ends will stay on. If you do hit something hard enough, you will break! We have been getting 5 to 6 feet of air so ball cups will take you out quick.

Best ball and cup I've found to work is standard Ae Balls, with Losi cups..

But yeah I also use the captured ends, but I only use it on 1 side..mainly the side the pops off the most...

[joke_one]

yes losi ball cups and AE ball stud work the best i've landed my gt on the side walls of the wheels and the cups stayed on but the wheel crack, and countless cartwheels with my truck and only once has a ball cup fell off

[The King]

I want to know what I should use to clean my GT? My manifold came lose on one side a gas was spitting out. Now I have a mess.
Thanks
D.King:cool:

[tankman]

i just got a rc10gt plus for xmas!!i love it!!i use to build static 1/35 scale models but now the rc bug has hit me!! tankman:D

[jewelz1620]

im new to the hobby, and i lost the aluminum nut for the steering (the only response i get from the hobby stores is surprise, surprise!!) and they are trying to sell me BB steering. is there a real diff between the composites and aluminum ones i saw on ebay or is it just looks. or should i just pay the $12 for the stupid nut and keep what i got? help please. .....ryan

[1tuffRC10]

12 dollars for the nut? That would buy the entire stock set up or MIP version of BB steering.

[1tuffRC10]

I use 70% alcohol with a brush and an air hose. If you do this you may want to take your clutch bell off and get the residue (dirt and junk) out. The alcohol will dry out your plastic and make it look grey. A little WD-40 will take care of that. BTW WD-40 and clutches do not work well together.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
.....Ball cups (Can be popped right back in, but can get quite annoying. Encaptured ends from traxxas work well?)......


Good to see you chose the GT Polk, but as for the above I have one question for you: what would be more annoying, a popped-off ball end or one of the following: Broken turnbuckle, ball joint ripped out of the shock tower (requiring a new shock tower or compromising your suspension setup by using a different hole,) or broken steering knuckle or hub carrier? My opinion is that they make the ball ends so they will pop off to avoid breakage of any of the previous items and and enclosed linkage could lead to something more expensive. I'll stick with the annoyance of snapping a ball end back on! :D


Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
....Rockinbill, do I know you?

Don't know, doya? :D I've had this nickname for years, in many places, out in Oregon here . . .

[1tuffRC10]

The reason I asked is the post you put up about ncorra. The man that built that site is a friend of mine and his name is Bill! Never been to Oregon , on my list of things to do.:D Anyhow about the ball cup thing, if you hit anything hard enough, even with ball cups you will break something. If you are just bashing around the yard, stay with ball cups. If you want to race, get big air, and finish a 30 minute main, go with encaptured ends. Turn marshalls are not out there to pop your ball cups back on. It seems to me once a ball cup has popped off it will pop off again soon if you don't replace the cup. It's more of a driver, ability, preference thing I guess!

[atm92484_3]

The boards must really jump infront of your trucks at the tracks you guys run at. :D

I've been running the standard set-up on my GT all summer and only once did I have an end pop off, and this was from a really hard hit on the boards. All the other times, my GT ran and crashed all day long and nothing popped off. The one thing I've found though is that you need to replace the ends after they've popped off a few times. It also helps if you aren't constantly taking them off and putting them on.

[Polk]

I waaannnt my GTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

*sigh*

only 6 weeks to go, stupid boat HURRY UP!

[dog8spam]

Does anyone hear have a titanium spur? I was thinking of getting one but wanted to know if anyone had one strip.

Instead of getting a $20 brace I took an extra one I got in a parts lot and fit it to join the tranny where the brakes mount to the front of the standard brace- it does makes a difference.

Lastly, which do yal think is better Associated 4-shoe or MIP 4-n-1?

[The King]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Does anyone hear have a titanium spur? I was thinking of getting one but wanted to know if anyone had one strip.

Instead of getting a $20 brace I took an extra one I got in a parts lot and fit it to join the tranny where the brakes mount to the front of the standard brace- it does makes a difference.

Lastly, which do yal think is better Associated 4-shoe or MIP 4-n-1?
I would have to say the MIP 4-n-1, Plus I can't wait until I get my Chrechenzi Brake system:D

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
King, glad you got it running. Sometimes it's hard to help people on here because you don't know all of the details. I figure if you put out all the possibilities maybe one will be the ticket. I also run the MIP clutch. I like it better than the stock two shoe set up but I have heard several people, faster than I, say the four shoe clutch is smoother. I haven't tried one yet, still like the MIP. Only problem with the MIP is if you lose a clutch bearing you will tear up the holes in the shoes and it will not work as well. Can't say a single thimg good about RPM ball cups. I have tried nearly every combination of cups and balls. Stock was much better. Don't use them now, as I said before, encaptured ends will stay on. If you do hit something hard enough, you will break! We have been getting 5 to 6 feet of air so ball cups will take you out quick.
I also noticed that my manifold was loose on one side. Gas was getting all over the place so this might have had something to do with my problems. I am in the process of cleaning the mess right now.:D

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Does anyone hear have a titanium spur? I was thinking of getting one but wanted to know if anyone had one strip.

Instead of getting a $20 brace I took an extra one I got in a parts lot and fit it to join the tranny where the brakes mount to the front of the standard brace- it does makes a difference.

Lastly, which do yal think is better Associated 4-shoe or MIP 4-n-1?


I personally run the 4-n-1, but I know a Ae factory Driver that runs a 4 shoe..

now about the spur gear..
same thing with the metal one. If you do buy it, its going to cost you more than running the plastice spurs.

I rather replace a $3 spur grear then replace a clutch bell or gears inside the tranny.

[dog8spam]

now about the spur gear..
same thing with the metal one. If you do buy it, its going to cost you more than running the plastice spurs.

I rather replace a $3 spur grear then replace a clutch bell or gears inside the tranny.

What do you mean? Spurs strip from misalighnment and that cant hurt anything in the tranny. Have you (or anyone) seen one stripped or clutch bell ruined from misalighnment?

I have a problem- I bought my GT five years ago and need a new sleeve but cant tell if its a CV or CV-X. The instruction book is for both :(

[The King]

I have the OS .15 cv-rx, MIP Stinger Exhaust, MIP 4-n-1 clutch, Chrechenzi Brake system is on the way.

Is there any better airfilter then the stock one that came with the motor?

What is a buttsink? I hear it helps keep the motor cool.

Will a MIP boost bottle help my bottom end any?

What other performance parts do you experts suggest?

PS I also heard of a guy putting a .21 in his GT. How hard would this be?

Thanks again for the feedback
D.King:D

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by dog8spam
What do you mean? Spurs strip from misalighnment and that cant hurt anything in the tranny. Have you (or anyone) seen one stripped or clutch bell ruined from misalighnment?

I have a problem- I bought my GT five years ago and need a new sleeve but cant tell if its a CV or CV-X. The instruction book is for both :(

not from misalignhnment..but power the clutch bell being a weaker materal.


the cv and cv-x are the same motor, the cv-x has a pullstart

both use the same piston and sleve.

but instead of paying 45 for a new OS p/s spend another 50 bux and get the OS cv-r from tower for 94 bux

[rc10gtroller]

the cv-x means its a pullstart and the cv means its a bumpstart

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I have the OS .15 cv-rx, MIP Stinger Exhaust, MIP 4-n-1 clutch, Chrechenzi Brake system is on the way.

Is there any better airfilter then the stock one that came with the motor?

What is a buttsink? I hear it helps keep the motor cool.

Will a MIP boost bottle help my bottom end any?

What other performance parts do you experts suggest?

PS I also heard of a guy putting a .21 in his GT. How hard would this be?

Thanks again for the feedback
D.King:D

as long as you keep the foam well oiled, its on the best filters out there...motor saver makes good filters too.

a buttsink is a replacement cover for non pullstart motors, has more heat sink fins on it

A boost bottle wont show you much improvement in the bottom end on offroad.

and yes, New Era(I belive) makes a .21 kit for the GT, its a new lower and upper chassis and motor mount.. its pretty pricy...but to me, I .21 is way to much for that truck..

[The King]

Originally posted by FleaUDP
as long as you keep the foam well oiled, its on the best filters out there...motor saver makes good filters too.

a buttsink is a replacement cover for non pullstart motors, has more heat sink fins on it

A boost bottle wont show you much improvement in the bottom end on offroad.

and yes, New Era(I belive) makes a .21 kit for the GT, its a new lower and upper chassis and motor mount.. its pretty pricy...but to me, I .21 is way to much for that truck..

FleaUDP is there a link to New Era? I am a back yard basher and I think that may be pretty sweet if I could get my gt to take a .21 motor:D Thanks for the quick feed back
D.King

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by kingitme69
FleaUDP is there a link to New Era? I am a back yard basher and I think that may be pretty sweet if I could get my gt to take a .21 motor:D Thanks for the quick feed back
D.King

yes, plus they make a few other things for the Gt as well


http://www.neweramodels.com/prod28_factoryteam.htm

is the link right to the Gt parts

[dog8spam]

If the power of an engine can strip a metal clutch bell why doesn't a plastic gear strip every time?

[geo8498]

I'm experiencing an annoying amount of fishtailing with my RC10 in most conditions. My primary driving is on pavement and backyard bashing. I've experimented with a number of different tires, including Bow-ties, Dirt Works, and HoleShots and Road Hawgs, to name a few. My best luck seems to be with the bow-ties, but obviously the pavement driving is not what they're for. The Road Hawgs were the worst, as the car slides all over the place.

Off-road, the truck handles reasonably well. When I've driven the truck in the leaves and snow, it seems okay. The only time I've had the truck handle like it should was in the leaves with
knobbies on the rear.

I'm wondering what kind of adjustments I can make to dial it in so I'm not annoyed so much. I know this truck has a good reputation, and have seen people driving it well on pavement in video clips. I know there has to be something I can do to get this truck to handle the way I want it to.

I've played with the shock adjustments too. The darn thing just seems like it has so much torque in the rear end, it doesn't want to go straight. I have to run at low throttle to get it moving before opening up the throttle.

Would it help to add weight to the front end? The hobby store guy told me to try remounting my battery pack to the front. I haven't yet figured just where I'd mount it. So I added about 1.5oz of lead weight to the front, but it didn't seem to make a difference.

Can anyone help?

[TommyT]

Hi All,

I want to replace my dogbones on my RTR RC10GT Plus with MIP CVD's like on the Team GT.

The GT instructions show a spacer (No. 7377) that fits into the hub carrier between the bearings on the Team GT. My RTR GT does not have and is not supposed to have these spacers. The guy at the HS said that they are not necessary. I figure that if they are there then they must be needed.

Do I need these spacers?

Happy New Year,
TommyT

[rc10gtroller]

i have the road hawgs and they do really suck in the traction department.

[curbcheck]

hey Geo,
have you recently crashed the front end into anything? if your front support tubes are bent, that could be your problem. if not, it could be a number of other things.

good luck

[TommyT]

One other thing,

The throttle arm is too soft and bending on my RTR RC10GT Plus. I think it has a Associated/Thunder Tiger .15 in it. What is a good metal replacement for this part?

Thanks.

[slow one 2]

does anyone have a metal transmission case on their truck? if so what problems have you had with it? also what about metal gears for the transmission, do you need to use lots of grease, how often do you need to clean them compared to the stock gears.

[atm92484_3]

IMO metal gears and metal cases are a waste. Both just add unneeded weight and maintaince. Take the gears for example; they cost a lot and need to be lubed unlike the stock gears which require no maintaince. Unless you're going for the look factor, the metal case won't give you anything other than more rear traction.

Tommy, you could try retrofitting an O.S. arm possibly.

[slow one 2]

i've had rotten luck with the stock transmission case'sssssss(many) they losen up and next thing i'm replacing spur gears, clutch bells, and bearings. during our finals my son went through 4 sets of bearings2 spur gears and 2 clutch bells. he would have also finished in 2nd place but the gears crapped out and his car stopped about 20 feet from the finish line. He wasn't happy and came in last. i need to come up with something.

I'm running a MT12 but i've heard o some of you running other novarosi engines. what are they, are they faster, and where can i find them. thanks for all your imput, this site has made my truck look and run awsome over the past couple years.:D :D

[WheelNut]

Tommy-If your throttle arm on the carb is bending then your throttle linkage is binding. Make sure it set up properly. And that the link arm doesnt bind in it little holder thingy.

Slow one 2-Why not try putting some CA glue on those tranny case screws. Though I havent heard of the cases on a GT loosening. I've never had that problem on any of my trucks yet. Or you could use some slightly larger screws. But the 4-40 screws should work.

[The King]

Originally posted by geo8498
I'm experiencing an annoying amount of fishtailing with my RC10 in most conditions. My primary driving is on pavement and backyard bashing. I've experimented with a number of different tires, including Bow-ties, Dirt Works, and HoleShots and Road Hawgs, to name a few. My best luck seems to be with the bow-ties, but obviously the pavement driving is not what they're for. The Road Hawgs were the worst, as the car slides all over the place.

Off-road, the truck handles reasonably well. When I've driven the truck in the leaves and snow, it seems okay. The only time I've had the truck handle like it should was in the leaves with
knobbies on the rear.

I'm wondering what kind of adjustments I can make to dial it in so I'm not annoyed so much. I know this truck has a good reputation, and have seen people driving it well on pavement in video clips. I know there has to be something I can do to get this truck to handle the way I want it to.

I've played with the shock adjustments too. The darn thing just seems like it has so much torque in the rear end, it doesn't want to go straight. I have to run at low throttle to get it moving before opening up the throttle.

Would it help to add weight to the front end? The hobby store guy told me to try remounting my battery pack to the front. I haven't yet figured just where I'd mount it. So I added about 1.5oz of lead weight to the front, but it didn't seem to make a difference.

Can anyone help?

You said something about driving in snow? Well then that might be your biggest problem right there. Cold temps. Your road hawgs can not warm up so in return they can not grip. Also the pavement is cold which in return won't give your road hawgs any tracktion either. Give them a try when the temps are in 70*s - 90*s and then see how well they treat you.

Also since you say you drive in snow, how do you protect your electronics:confused:

D.King

[1tuffRC10]

dog8spam. Check in the book to see that p/s sets for both engines are the same. I believe the X stands for pull start. About the ball cup thing, I have run at tracks that didn't have big jumps and you could run wore out cups there, no problem. another track has a large triple and a rythym or whoop d do section, that is hard pack, where a funny landing on your wheels will take a cup right off. As I said before it's driver preference or track or yard conditions. As for the spur gear, I run a steel idler gear and titanium top shaft so a hard landing on the gas will break an axel if the slipper isn't set right even with a plastic spur. IMO the metal spurs are not worth it. The plastic spurs are easy to change and are cheap insurance on my tranny and axels.

[geo8498]

I bought the car in September, and the fishtailing was still a problem in the warm temps. The cold weather, I'm sure, is not making the situation any better. I've outfitted the car for driving in the snow by covering the electronics in casings and plastic.

[1tuffRC10]

If you tighten the case screws too tight the first time the cases are stripped. I use a little tire glue on the screws and tighten them lightly. You don't want to use any force or torque on any screws going into plastic. Once you have pulled the plastic out of the holes there is nothing to hold the screws. Geo, what kind of rear toe are you running. Sounds like 3 to 4.5 if the truck works in grass but not on pavement. Less toe is required on high traction. Also if your slipper is locked up and you are running your clutch to hit quick it will either spin out or pop a wheelie. More weight is just more strain on the engine. You may want to try a restricter to cut some of the punch out of the engine. You may want to see if your diff needs rebuilding also. Don't know of a set up to run on both pavement and grass. :D BTW How is moving your batts forward going to help with rear traction?

[RooK]

Well, seems my fuel tank problem will be fixed soon enough. Associated is sending me a new tank free of charge :)

Since that is out of the way... What upgrades to you recommend on the RTR Plus? I'm basicly wanting ones that will make an improvement in speed and handling.

Also, there are supposedly some small differences between the RTR Plus chassi and the FT chassi. Does anyone know what these are? Would buying a FT chassi to replace the RTR one be a good idea?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by geo8498
I'm experiencing an annoying amount of fishtailing with my RC10 in most conditions...

Geo, one of the biggest mistakes people make is to lock down the torque control (most likely so they can pop wheelies . . . ) The torque control is designed to prevent just what you're experiencing. It slips until the vehicle gets moving, then locks in when it gets up to speed, sending the full force of the engine to the wheels. In case you don't know (many people don't!) it's the large disc under your spur, also called the slipper clutch, and the tension is controlled by the small nut in the center with the spring under it. Loosen the nut so that, when you nail the throttle from a dead stop, it slips for about 10-15 feet max, then "locks in." You can hear it in the sound of the engine. That will make your spinouts go away completely, although you'll have to adjust it for different traction surfaces. Don't leave it too loose or it will overheat the entire assembly.


Originally posted by1tuffRC10
The reason I asked is the post you put up about ncorra. ...

No, but oddly enough I am a web developer by trade!

Anyhow about the ball cup thing, if you hit anything hard enough, even with ball cups you will break something.

Of course, but the ball cups allow a little give and help just that nth more. It's like a servo saver, something smaller gives it up before something more expensive gets broken. I jumped a 6-foot double last week in freezing weather (I know, smart one!) and broke a rear bulkhead, but hey the ball cups were still on!


Originally posted by Polk

I waaannnt my GTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We feel for ya dude! :D

Originally posted by dog8spam
What do you mean? Spurs strip from misalighnment and that cant hurt anything in the tranny. .... If the power of an engine can strip a metal clutch bell why doesn't a plastic gear strip every time?

I think what everyone is getting at here is the spur is plastic for a reason. There is indeed an incredible amount of stress here, and if something doesn't "give" (just like the ball ends!) something else is going to break. We haven't ruined trannies or clutch bells because the spur indeed does strip, but not from misalignment, from other things like being just a little trigger-happy on jumps when you land. My wife finally stripped one last week, no big deal, we have a dozen of them. When you add a metal or titanium spur to the mix, which will not give way, you definately stand a chance of damaging something more serious, but hey - go for it if it suits ya!


I have a problem- I bought my GT five years ago and need a new sleeve but cant tell if its a CV or CV-X. The instruction book is for both ...

As said the CV-X is a pull-start, but what you have to watch for is a CV or CV-R, they are definately different piston/sleeve sets. It will have Cv or CV-R clearly stamped on the side of the cylinder.

Originally posted by slow one 2
does anyone have a metal transmission case on their truck?....

Slow I have one that I wil be selling soon, the one major problem I found is that if you're not careful the screws used to mount it to the chassis will get seized up in the case and are a bear to get out. As for maintenance, the interiors gears themselves are hardened steel with a plastic idler gear (see above! :D ) and should be bone dry, lubricating them only draws crap into the gears. The diff balls get the usual silicone diff grease.

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by RooK
Also, there are supposedly some small differences between the RTR Plus chassi and the FT chassi. Does anyone know what these are? Would buying a FT chassi to replace the RTR one be a good idea?


not any more..the rtr plus and the FT Chassis is the same now

there 1st rtr ed the chassiss was 1/4 inch shorter..

but now they all carry the same chassis

[The King]

Originally posted by RooK
Well, seems my fuel tank problem will be fixed soon enough. Associated is sending me a new tank free of charge :)

Since that is out of the way... What upgrades to you recommend on the RTR Plus? I'm basicly wanting ones that will make an improvement in speed and handling.

Also, there are supposedly some small differences between the RTR Plus chassi and the FT chassi. Does anyone know what these are? Would buying a FT chassi to replace the RTR one be a good idea?
get the .21 motor mount kit and a .21 motor that will give you more speed then you could think of coming from a R/C10gt:D
I might be doing the same upgrade, I am still trying to talk my financial advisor (WIFE) that this is a great investment;)

[rc/guitarman69]

Hey guys! I wanted to know who makes a tranny case for the rc10gt? The blue alum ones? If so could you post some links! Thanks guys! I just got a FTGT!

[Polk]

is this what you mean?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMA03&P=K

[ross]

Hi,

Just thought I would post some pics of my GT with the bits I got for christmas.

Bodyshell:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/newpics/truck1.JPG

CVR,

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/newpics/truck14.JPG

[atm92484_3]

Lookin' good ross.

[rc/guitarman69]

Originally posted by Polk
is this what you mean?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMA03&P=K

Nope iam looking for a tranny case in blue Aluminum. Ive seen them on ebay and also in pics of rc10gts in rc nitro! I want to know who makes them and so on! Thanks!

[The King]

Do you think it would be fine or Do you think I would have nothing but problems if I get the conversion kit for the gt to run a .21 motor. I know it will cost me some $$$ but I am not worried about that part. As long as it runs just as good as stock I will make that investment. Let me know what you experts think.

Thanks for the feed back
D.King

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by kingitme69
Do you think it would be fine or Do you think I would have nothing but problems if I get the conversion kit for the gt to run a .21 motor. I know it will cost me some $$$ but I am not worried about that part. As long as it runs just as good as stock I will make that investment. Let me know what you experts think.

Thanks for the feed back
D.King

personally I think your gonna have more probs than its worth...

lot of gear probs...with the .21 having so much power..

also might be ripping cvd's apart too

[The King]

Originally posted by FleaUDP
personally I think your gonna have more probs than its worth...

lot of gear probs...with the .21 having so much power..

also might be ripping cvd's apart too
I was thinking the same thing but then again if they are making a conversion kit some one out there must be tearing up the back yard bashing. It sure would be nice to give this thing a try. But I don't want all the problems. thanks for the feed back FleaUDP;)

[TommyT]

Originally posted by TommyT
Hi All,

I want to replace the dogbones on my RTR RC10GT Plus with MIP CVD's like on the Team GT.

The GT instructions show a spacer (No. 7377) that fits into the hub carrier between the bearings on the Team GT. My RTR GT does not have and is not supposed to have these spacers. The guy at the HS said that they are not necessary. I figure that if they are there then they must be needed.

Do I need these spacers?

Happy New Year,
TommyT

Sorry for the re-post. I didn't get a responce yesterday. Anyone got an answer?

Also, MIP makes 1/4" CVD's for the GT also. Is there any advantage to getting the 1/4" CVD's over the 3/16" ones? I realize that new bearings would be in order.

TommyT

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I was thinking the same thing but then again if they are making a conversion kit some one out there must be tearing up the back yard bashing. It sure would be nice to give this thing a try. But I don't want all the problems. thanks for the feed back FleaUDP;)

well yes it can be done...you all your gears have to match up

steel diff, steel idle, steel top gear, steel spur, steel clutch bell..


your whole tranny would have to upgraded..

unless ya got about 800 to put into it, its not worth it

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by TommyT
The GT instructions show a spacer (No. 7377) that fits into the hub....
Also, MIP makes 1/4" CVD's for the GT also. Is there any advantage to getting the 1/4" CVD's over the 3/16" ones? I realize that new bearings would be in order.

Tommy the spacer, if it's what I'm thinking of, is to keep the bearing separated on "straight-through" hubs, I think all of them are flanged nowadays and not needed. The associated site says "fits only the #7378 rear axle and MIP CVD’s." The only time I recall having has such an issue was with an old RC 10 buggy I built, didn't have the spacer, so stuck extra bearings in each side to take up the slack, three-bearing hubs. :D

Most people swear by the 3/16" axles because "the smaller bearings can't handle the torque." Added arguments are that you can't use 3/16" wheels and 1/4" wheels are getting hard to find.

All my AE's, electrics and GT's, still have 1/4" axles and I have had no probs, but keep a tube of rear bearings on hand just in case. For that reason I'll probably never need them. :D As for the wheels, I've drilled out many a Losi wheel and slapped it on a GT before AE went to 3/16."

You will also need different hub carriers if you switch to a different axle size.

[gearwrench]

I purchased an rtr gt the year they came out, it was my first gas r/c vehicle. I would like to share some of my experiences that may help some of you with your new gt's. The first thing that falls off is the exhaust header and it makes a real mess. Take the bolts out and put some threadlocker on them, I replaced them with some slightly longer bolts and put a nut on the end that sticks out on the header side. Get in the habit of checking the tightness before you run, it will save you a lot of trouble.

I run 10% Omega fuel ( my LHS stocks it) and I have ran almost 4 gallons through the original engine and it still runs great. It will still wheelie almost on demand with the slipper locked tight. The engine came with MC59 glowplug and I had terrible luck with these plugs, I wasted a lot of money on plugs until I got smart and switched to MC8 and MC9 plugs. Now I still have great performance but rarely burn out a plug. I have read that the MC59 is a hot plug and is simply fragile. My truck requires very little tuning and it idles great. On the idle thing, my truck would be running fine then it would not idle. I finally found that the idle screw (with the spring on it) was vibrating out and I was losing my idle, so I cleaned it and put a small amount of threadlocker on it now stays set. Hope this helps! More later.

[1tuffRC10]

The difference in the 3/16 and 1/4 axels is in the bearings only. You don't need new carriers unless you have the rpm's with the 1/2 o.d. bearings. The outside diameter of the axel bearings is the same. As for the blue alum. cases, hardcore makes them I believe. As for the idea of a .21 on a FTGT, WHY. Can't you get enough power from a CV-R, or about any GOOD .12 or .15 to destroy about any part of a GT that you want to. If you just want to spend that much money why not just buy a 1/8 scale buggy!

[1tuffRC10]

Sounds good. Glad to hear you have had good luck with your new truck. But I'll bet this isn't your first time with R/C! On that spacer thing, if you are running 3/16 axels use the spacer, if you are running 1/4, don't, it won't fit! I run the 1/4 axels also, just because all my wheels are already for them but because it's time for a new truck and it's winter, well it's time to change. After spinning donuts, something similar to the way the Goldberg monster truck does, my bearings on the axels usually will wear out. They are a little more fragile than 3/16 bearings that's why I'll be switching. BTW I've heard the spacer helps to keep from knocking the center out of the bearings. Sounds good to me so I'll have them in my new truck!

[Wallis Racing]

Originally posted by kingitme69
What other performance parts do you experts suggest?
If you have a 15 CV-R, then the best possible performance part i can recomend is to get a Fridge head. a mate of mine put one on his 15 CV-R and it was running sooo cool he had to lean it off heaps just to make it run, cause it would stall cause it was too cool, LOL. they are about $50us and are absolutley wicked. his 15 CV-R was beating my RB concept X12:eek: i just wish someone would make a head like this for my X12;)

Originally posted by FleaUDP
not from misalignhnment..but power the clutch bell being a weaker materal *plus you other comments about metal spurs*
In my GT i have all the RRP gears:
Steal spur
Hardened CB
TI top shaft
Hardened steal idler gear
Alloy main diff gear

before i got all these, i neve striped any spurs, but i did so 2 idler gears and chewed up my top shaft a bit, as well as bending it from the engine power, so i went all out and got a bullet proof tranny, now i can pretty much bolt anything in there and it should be sweet.

but more on the topic, if you get the RRP steal spur, you would get the spur/clutch bell combo, and then you get the hardened steal bell, so no striped bells from the steal spur. it is a wicked setup, prolly not the best for racing(weight) but for bashers and hackers it is wicked cause you should never have any probs.


oh yeah,
rc/guitarman69
its a GPM alloy diff case you are thinking of, check out their site. its something like www.hobbyect.com , the case goes for around $70us. it looks absolutly sick, and if i had the spare change i would get it. and as you said, it was in the magazines as 'most pimpin part' and they had it filled with all the RRP gears i have(above^)

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[rc/guitarman69]

oh yeah,
rc/guitarman69
its a GPM alloy diff case you are thinking of, check out their site. its something like www.hobbyect.com , the case goes for around $70us. it looks absolutly sick, and if i had the spare change i would get it. and as you said, it was in the magazines as 'most pimpin part' and they had it filled with all the RRP gears i have(above^)

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)[/COLOR] [/B][/QUOTE]

Yea thanks Wallis!!!!

Here is the link to the case if any body wants to take a look!

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=4954&car_id=81

[1tuffRC10]

Do you have a web addy for Fridge? Never heard of them before. I was just wondering if they made heads for the .12 CV-R's. I have ran a TR head on my CV-R and it worked pretty good. We have been cleaning the anodizing (sp. lol) off of the top of the stock heads and got the temps down some.

[Wallis Racing]

no probs rc/guitarman69.

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
web addy for Fridge?

i think its http://www.msjproducts.com

In the conditions we used this head, it made a 70*F difference in temp :eek: slightly better then a de-anodized TR head? LOL

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Wallis Racing]

:( was just looking on the MSJ site and noticed that they only make the head for the OS .15s, and im not sure if the .15 heads fit on the .12s? i think they might, but im not positive.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[WheelNut]

TommyT-That spacer is there so that when you tighten down your wheelnuts the bearings dont bind. Its a super cheap part that will give your bearings a little more life so I would go ahead and get it.

[The King]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
If you have a 15 CV-R, then the best possible performance part i can recomend is to get a Fridge head. a mate of mine put one on his 15 CV-R and it was running sooo cool he had to lean it off heaps just to make it run, cause it would stall cause it was too cool, LOL. they are about $50us and are absolutley wicked. his 15 CV-R was beating my RB concept X12:eek: i just wish someone would make a head like this for my X12;)


In my GT i have all the RRP gears:
Steal spur
Hardened CB
TI top shaft
Hardened steal idler gear
Alloy main diff gear

before i got all these, i neve striped any spurs, but i did so 2 idler gears and chewed up my top shaft a bit, as well as bending it from the engine power, so i went all out and got a bullet proof tranny, now i can pretty much bolt anything in there and it should be sweet.

but more on the topic, if you get the RRP steal spur, you would get the spur/clutch bell combo, and then you get the hardened steal bell, so no striped bells from the steal spur. it is a wicked setup, prolly not the best for racing(weight) but for bashers and hackers it is wicked cause you should never have any probs.


oh yeah,
rc/guitarman69
its a GPM alloy diff case you are thinking of, check out their site. its something like www.hobbyect.com , the case goes for around $70us. it looks absolutly sick, and if i had the spare change i would get it. and as you said, it was in the magazines as 'most pimpin part' and they had it filled with all the RRP gears i have(above^)

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

Thanks wallisracing that looks like one product I will be getting sometime soon.:D

[1tuffRC10]

Thanks but I don't believe a .15 head will fit on a .12.:D

[gearwrench]

What is the best way to clean anodized parts without removing the anodizing? I bought a bottle of Trinity Nitro Terminator and when it came it has a sticker on it that says not to use it on Anodized aluminum...I wish they would say that in the print ads in the magazines! I'am talking about fuel varnish on heads and pipes, that black stuff that is hard to remove.
any help would be appreciated.

PS,
The stock header and pipe on the rtr rc10gt can be polished to look almost like chrome using Mothers mag and aluminum polish and a soft cloth....

[The King]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBPG4&P=0 I am thinking about upgrading to this motor for my R/C10gt. I will be racing both off and on road. I know I will need the conversion kit to run a .21. I will be upgrading all my plastic gears to metal. Any other upgrades you for see me needing to make? I am still undecided if I want this or not. It is winter time here in Wisconsin so I will have 3 months to save for this upgrade before it will be time to race

Thanks
D.King

[dog8spam]

If your putting in a 21 you cant race.

[atm92484_3]

King, the .21 conversion isn't worth it. It messes up the balance by adding a lot of unneeded weight, it costs a lot, and the truck will be uncontrollable even with a mild .21. Putting an engine like that VZ onroad will completely destroy the GT, aside from the fact you won't be able to get any traction or control the truck. Do like people have said before and get something along the lines of a 15 CV-R. You could also wait for the TRX 2.5 to become available (or buy a parted out one off of Ebay). It over powers the Rustler so it will still be plenty fast in a properly tuned GT.

[The King]

Originally posted by dog8spam
If your putting in a 21 you cant race.
Out here in my home town you can race a .21 against a ..15 and other motors. They have the track set up so everybody can compete. I know if I want to get serous i can't race but this is just for fun right now.:D

[The King]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
King, the .21 conversion isn't worth it. It messes up the balance by adding a lot of unneeded weight, it costs a lot, and the truck will be uncontrollable even with a mild .21. Putting an engine like that VZ onroad will completely destroy the GT, aside from the fact you won't be able to get any traction or control the truck. Do like people have said before and get something along the lines of a 15 CV-R. You could also wait for the TRX 2.5 to become available (or buy a parted out one off of Ebay). It over powers the Rustler so it will still be plenty fast in a properly tuned GT.
I already have the .15cv-r and it is very fast don't get me wrong. but getting that motor would be even faster yet. But you are right it would just be way to much power. Do you have a link to show me a TRX 2.5?

[1tuffRC10]

King, why not try a 17 tooth clutch. I've got one and there is no where to run that thing on a track. IMO it is far to fast to be controllable in the dirt. On pavement with striker tires would probably be pretty fast.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
King, why not try a 17 tooth clutch. I've got one and there is no where to run that thing on a track. IMO it is far to fast to be controllable in the dirt. On pavement with striker tires would probably be pretty fast.
I will have to give that a try:D What about the spur gear? Mine is a 66 tooth. Do you think going to a 64 will do anything for me?

Thanks for the feed back 1tuffRC10;)

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I will have to give that a try:D What about the spur gear? Mine is a 66 tooth. Do you think going to a 64 will do anything for me?

Thanks for the feed back 1tuffRC10;)

yes, jumping from at 15 to a 17 bell and from 66 to 64 on the spur will make a huge change in the truck

mess around with different gear combo's before you jump into putting a .21 in the truck

[Think Methanol]

I'm selling my gt on ebay, and this guy asked me asking question about the steering on it. I've been away from the game for awhile and when I left I was still a newb. He asked me "what kind of steering does the gt hav(digital proportional)?" I'm not sure exactly what he meant or what digital proportional relates to, like is that about the steering servo or what. If any of you guys could help me I'd appreciate it. thanks
oh yeah its a regular gt rtr, not the rtr plus.

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by Think Methanol
I'm selling my gt on ebay, and this guy asked me asking question about the steering on it. I've been away from the game for awhile and when I left I was still a newb. He asked me "what kind of steering does the gt hav(digital proportional)?" I'm not sure exactly what he meant or what digital proportional relates to, like is that about the steering servo or what. If any of you guys could help me I'd appreciate it. thanks
oh yeah its a regular gt rtr, not the rtr plus.

Yes thats excatly(sp_ what he's asking... he wants to know if its a digital servo... just give him the brand and model ## of the servo..

[sosidge]

If he's asking whether the steering is "digital proportional", he's not even asking about the servo.

ALL "real" radio control cars have "digital proportional" steering - it's the way the transmitters work.

[The King]

Originally posted by FleaUDP
yes, jumping from at 15 to a 17 bell and from 66 to 64 on the spur will make a huge change in the truck

mess around with different gear combo's before you jump into putting a .21 in the truck
what would give me better low end changing the spur gear or the clutch gear?

[Think Methanol]

I was just told that the HS-303 servos on my gt, were analog proportional and that that digital proportional ones were most of the spendy high performance servos. I'm kidna confused now :rolleyes: :( :confused: , what do u mean that the transmitter is digital proportional?

[gearwrench]

There is a chart in the Associated GT help section, it is the gear ratio chart and it makes it easy to see what the different spur/clutchbell combos result in.

[The King]

Originally posted by gearwrench
There is a chart in the Associated GT help section, it is the gear ratio chart and it makes it easy to see what the different spur/clutchbell combos result in.

Do you have a link for this chart:confused:

[gearwrench]

Originally posted by kingitme69
Do you have a link for this chart:confused:

try www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/techhelp/tech10gt.htm#1:10nitrotruck

and click on "gt gear ratios chart" its a pdf file

[sosidge]

Originally posted by Think Methanol
I was just told that the HS-303 servos on my gt, were analog proportional and that that digital proportional ones were most of the spendy high performance servos. I'm kidna confused now :rolleyes: :( :confused: , what do u mean that the transmitter is digital proportional?

All modern transmitters are digital proportional - it's the way they work - my guess is that the guy asking about "digital proportional" didn't really understand what it meant anyway.

I think he wondered whether it had proportional steering, or toy-style left-centre-right steering.

Your Hitec servos are analogue - recent high-end servos are digital - but having analogue servos in the car is not a problem at all - he would have to be a VERY fussy racer to insist on digital servos (and he'd be surfing ebay for a long time finding and RC10GT with them installed...)

[slow one 2]

I've been running a mugan mt12 in my truck. i found them easy to tune, and they last a long time but I need to get a back-up for this season. does anyone run the sirro engines, how do they compare. also what about nova mr12, cr12 and cx12 are any of them faster? I saw post about a nova black widow anyone here of that one? which one is the fastest?

[The King]

I have the OS cv-rx .15 I have a 15t clutch gear and a 66t spur gear. I want more bottom end speed. So should I change the spur gear to a 64t or should I change the clutch gear to a 17t?

All you race experts out there please give your input. I will be racing my GT on and off road.

Thanks
D.King

[ross]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I have the OS cv-rx .15 I have a 15t clutch gear and a 66t spur gear. I want more bottom end speed. So should I change the spur gear to a 64t or should I change the clutch gear to a 17t?

All you race experts out there please give your input. I will be racing my GT on and off road.

Thanks
D.King

Both of the things you suggested will decrease your bottom end speed. For more low end you want a bigger spur gear and a smaller clutch bell.


Ross.

[The King]

Originally posted by ross
Both of the things you suggested will decrease your bottom end speed. For more low end you want a bigger spur gear and a smaller clutch bell.


Ross.
Hey Ross
So should I leave my spur gear where it is at and get a smaller clutch gear? I was told that I should go to a 17t clutch gear for more bottom end. So is this wrong if I stay with the 66t spur gear?
Thanks for the feed back

[The King]

I have 66t spur. If I go up in teeth will I get better bottom end?
What about the clutch gear? I have a 15t do I need to go down or up in teeth to get better bottom end? I seen the chart someone posted about gear but that didn't help me.

[1tuffRC10]

I am confused now. Do you want more speed or quicker take off. Sorry but I know of no way to get one without hurting the other without a massive weight removal. If you go with a clutch with more teeth or a spur with less, you get more top speed. A clutch with less teeth or a spur with more teeth will take away top speed but will make the car quicker "out of the hole". FYI I am running OS TR or CV-R and can get my truck so fast with a 15 tooth clutch that it is impossible to control. I'll never use that much speed on a track! Something else to consider is the fact that a lot of 12 and 15 engines are only rated around 30,000 rpm. The OS TR is rated at 37,000 and the CV-R is rated at 36,000. The difference in rpm from say a 15 CV to a CV-R is noticable, to me anyway. BTW There is a theory about the size of the spur gear and time to "spool up". Smaller gear should wind up quicker because of the less weight. IMO There is not enough difference in weight to make a difference. Hope this helps some King!

[ross]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I have 66t spur. If I go up in teeth will I get better bottom end?
What about the clutch gear? I have a 15t do I need to go down or up in teeth to get better bottom end? I seen the chart someone posted about gear but that didn't help me.


I think the only spur gear bigger than a 66 is a 67 by RRP, so you could use that.

Yes a 17t clutch bell will deacrease bottom end, you want a smaller clutch bell, I think the lowest they go down to is an 11 tooth.

You will have to check that which ever gear combo you choose will mesh properly, because there might not be enough adjustment in the chassis holes to move the engine backward enough for the small clutchbell to mesh with the spur gear.



Ross.

[The King]

You are like my on site mechanics. Looks like I will just go to a 67t spur gear and see what that give me

Thanks Again
Dennis

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I am confused now. Do you want more speed or quicker take off. Sorry but I know of no way to get one without hurting the other without a massive weight removal. If you go with a clutch with more teeth or a spur with less, you get more top speed. A clutch with less teeth or a spur with more teeth will take away top speed but will make the car quicker "out of the hole". FYI I am running OS TR or CV-R and can get my truck so fast with a 15 tooth clutch that it is impossible to control. I'll never use that much speed on a track! Something else to consider is the fact that a lot of 12 and 15 engines are only rated around 30,000 rpm. The OS TR is rated at 37,000 and the CV-R is rated at 36,000. The difference in rpm from say a 15 CV to a CV-R is noticable, to me anyway. BTW There is a theory about the size of the spur gear and time to "spool up". Smaller gear should wind up quicker because of the less weight. IMO There is not enough difference in weight to make a difference. Hope this helps some King!

hey 1tuffrc10
what size spur are using that you say you have to much speed?

[1tuffRC10]

I can't tell much difference in two teeth on a spur. Now two teeth, or even just one on a clutch will let you know if that is close to the gear that you want. It will take several teeth on a spur to make the same ratio as one on a clutch. What kind of tires are you running on the rear? If you are running gladiators or some other "heavy" tire, they are harder to get up to speed. More weight to get turning over, just like the difference in a heavy flywheel and a light one. If you just want to get the engine up to speed quick, try a softer clutch setting. This will allow the engine to rev up before engaging (sp?LOL). I race at tracks that are tight with short straits, thus a smaller clutch bell. Longer tracks with longer straits, more teeth on the clutch. BTW A light flywheel will also help if you aren't running one already.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I can't tell much difference in two teeth on a spur. Now two teeth, or even just one on a clutch will let you know if that is close to the gear that you want. It will take several teeth on a spur to make the same ratio as one on a clutch. What kind of tires are you running on the rear? If you are running gladiators or some other "heavy" tire, they are harder to get up to speed. More weight to get turning over, just like the difference in a heavy flywheel and a light one. If you just want to get the engine up to speed quick, try a softer clutch setting. This will allow the engine to rev up before engaging (sp?LOL). I race at tracks that are tight with short straits, thus a smaller clutch bell. Longer tracks with longer straits, more teeth on the clutch. BTW A light flywheel will also help if you aren't running one already.

Thanks for the input, That is what I will be