Associated RC10GT Forum v5.0

[The King]

Originally posted by bubbastump
there r 2 sizes 1/10 and 1/8
it tightens the tir string tight u can not go any tighter
i proved my lhs that i can get it tighter quicker and eaisier than they
they laughed untill i proved them wrong by tightening thier
tie 3 clicks
Thanks
I am also thinking about putting some exhaust tape around the coupler and exhaust as well to prevent this from happening again.

D.King:D

[soslo]

Get some silicone gasket sealer, or rtv .. and put it inside the tube, and on the pipe, before you slide them together.
After you strap it down and let it dry... it won't let oil seep by, and it won't come loose. I use the 3M clear.
www.BocaBearings.com has awsome "green seal" bearings. They have complete sets, or individual bearings, for the GT. They are not expensive either. Your LHS can order them, or you can.

[1tuffRC10]

kingtime, are you running the rear exhaust stinger? If so that thing is junk for off road IMO. I've seen several trucks cut off because the end of the pipe got plugged with dirt after a landing on the rear. Ceramic bearings are not roar legal in the engine. Not sure about in the clutch or anywhere else. AE bearings is the only kind to run in the clutch IMO. Dynamite work ok every where else. Boca are more expensive but are supposed to be better. I don't run exhaust with couplers of that type, after seeing all of these problems with them I don't think I will! Thanks for the tip about the shiny CVD's. I was getting ready to order a set but I heard somewhere else about the breaking problems also.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
kingtime, are you running the rear exhaust stinger? If so that thing is junk for off road IMO. I've seen several trucks cut off because the end of the pipe got plugged with dirt after a landing on the rear. Ceramic bearings are not roar legal in the engine. Not sure about in the clutch or anywhere else. AE bearings is the only kind to run in the clutch IMO. Dynamite work ok every where else. Boca are more expensive but are supposed to be better. I don't run exhaust with couplers of that type, after seeing all of these problems with them I don't think I will! Thanks for the tip about the shiny CVD's. I was getting ready to order a set but I heard somewhere else about the breaking problems also.
Well it is to late on the exhaust thing, now I have to find a way to keep the gas from coming out of the coupler area. Is there a better tuned exhaust system out there?:(

[TallMouse]

whats the best tires for the rc10gt cause the ones i got can't even go through grass and i spins out all the time so could some body point me in the right dirrection of some good off road tires

and also i got a non pull start kit and made it a pull start kit and the body doesn't fit over the pipe so do i have to get a different body for the pull start cause i looks funny sticking out the side of the truck

[TallMouse]

also where is a good site to buy hop ups for the rc10gt

[TallMouse]

and also every time i drive my truck after a while the clutch stickes so when i pull the cord the tries role as i pull the cord and useling when i take it apart it goes back to normale so does any body know why this happens?

[slow one 2]

the shiny cvds look nice but only if your keeping the truck on your shelf

[sosidge]

Tall Mouse - i'll try and help a bit...

Don't know if you can get them where you are, but I've found the ARP Full Spikes all-round to be a good grass tyre.

The Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer shell fits the pipe really nicely - it's subtley flared out on one side.

I can't really understand your post about the clutch/pullstart.

If the clutch was really sticking, the car wouldn't come to a standstill - that would be a sign of clutch drag, so either the idle is set too high or the shoes need trimming.

If it's the pullstart that's getting jammed, are you sure it's not because you're pulling it out to it's limits? You shouldn't pull it out fully, especially not hard. If it's wear and tear on the pullstart, a new assembly is probably the answer.

[The King]

Does the shims need to be install, I got 2 washers for the inside of the wheel hub and 2 washers and a shim for the outside of the hub. The problem is I lost one shim in the install process:( I don't know if this is a very important part of the CVD or not. Does anyone out there know for sure?

Thanks
D.King

[slow one 2]

i'm having problems getting pics on this site. can anyone help me out? I have them posted on the web image station.

[The King]

Originally posted by slow one 2
i'm having problems getting pics on this site. can anyone help me out? I have them posted on the web image station.

That pic doesn't that bad:)

[one_mean_rc10gt]

See this thread in the Buy Section - http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110179

[TallMouse]

i found out why the bearings on the clutch came aport and all the little balls got stuck and jamed it all up

[1tuffRC10]

I usually run one shim on the inside and one on the outside of the bearing carrier and bearings. Just two per side. I know they send more but just be sure that you have the CVD's spaced to the point that they cannot get out of the outdrives. As for pipe header combo, I am very happy with the losi rear exhaust header and drake pipe, but I did move the pressure outlet on the pipe. Are you using the factory AE header, if so did you cut the end of it yet?

[1tuffRC10]

AE bearings always in the clutch. They may be twice the price but they will last three times as long.

[TallMouse]

would these be good tires for driving around

Click Here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDT95&P=0)

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I usually run one shim on the inside and one on the outside of the bearing carrier and bearings. Just two per side. I know they send more but just be sure that you have the CVD's spaced to the point that they cannot get out of the outdrives. As for pipe header combo, I am very happy with the losi rear exhaust header and drake pipe, but I did move the pressure outlet on the pipe. Are you using the factory AE header, if so did you cut the end of it yet?
1tuffRC10
I am running the stinger header as well. What are you talking about when you say "space them to the point that they cannot get out of the outdrives?":(

[Polk]

I have 1L of Omega 15% Nitro Fuel, i was wondering if it is alright to use this for my RC10GT?

Heres what the whole label says:
Airsail Methane 1500 Methanol Fuel
Then it has the Synthetic Box ticked.
Omega Fuel 15% Nitro (on the barcode)

Will this be alright?

[1tuffRC10]

If you can hold the rear arm all the way down and turn it and the pins on the axels don't get outside of the outdrives, they are spaced properly. It usually only takes one shim on AE bearing carriers but if you are using the RPM bearing carriers it takes two shims on my truck. I am talking about the shims you have to put on before you put the CVD's in the bearings. On the side of the bearings closest to the outdrives.

[TallMouse]

whats the best site to buy stuff from online cause i need one

also i can't find any chrome rims for the rc10gt

[1tuffRC10]

I believe rpm makes some chrome wheels for a GT.

[1tuffRC10]

Polk, make sure it has atleast 16% oil and be ready to readjust your carb. It is for cars right? Airplane fuel doesn't have enough oil in it so you want to stay from that stuff!

[1tuffRC10]

PAGE 250!!!!!!!!!!!!

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
whats the best site to buy stuff from online cause i need one

also i can't find any chrome rims for the rc10gt
check these out, they are pricey http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=31

[Polk]

no idea what the oil content is, what is the reccomend nitro content so i can go buy some to match it perfectly so that i have to do minimal tuning and tell the HS what i need exactly!

[1tuffRC10]

I believe that it is airplane fuel. Is your engine worth taking that kind of chance on? Get some O'Donnell fuel or other quality car fuel and go from there. Use that other stuff to clean out your air filters!:)

[Polk]

I used this exact fuel for my touring car, which i have now sold.
:confused:
What is the reccomened nitro content?

[1tuffRC10]

It depends on your engine and what you want to do. If you want more power, then more nitro, but you are wearing out your engine faster. I run 20% untill my engine starts to get weak then sometimes I'll finish it off with a gallon of 30%. Check with your engine manufacturer to see what they recommend.

[boricua racing]

do you have to use the bushing or can you replace it whit a bearing?

[1tuffRC10]

I run the bushings at 4 for $2 it's cheaper. I don't think that the bearings work right in the slipper either.

[bubbastump]

rims goto lhs get proline 2.2 truck front or rear they say on label if it fits rc10 gt
or
http://www.prolineracing.com
here is a pic of the tensioner tool i was talkin bout earlier .u can get a lot tighter than the channel lock method.
we will be selling on our web site as soon as we get our availibility and supplier straightened out

[boricua racing]

DO I GET THE SLIDE OR THE ROTARY CARB? AND WHAT MANIFOLD WORK THE BEST?

[atm92484_3]

Before choosing a manifold or carb, you will need to locate the key on the keyboard that is the third key from the bottom on the left hand side. It will be labelled "Caps Lock". Press it once. ;)

I would personally go with the slide carb just for the extra engine response. The only downside is you will need to cut the crankshaft with all slide carb versions of the engine. For a manifold, Trinity and Losi both make stadium truck specific rear exhaust manifolds.

[TallMouse]

hey does the Crescenzi GT Brake System fit the factory team gt kit cause im not sure some people say it don't work cause of the carborator are something like that

[Wallis Racing]

Hey all,
Towards the end of this month im ordering some stuff from stormer:
Hammad Ghuman ultimate Chassis
http://www.1hg.com/images/3040.jpg
Progressive Suspension rear shocks
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/ps2001bk.jpg
Hi-Tech HS 5925 Digi servo- Torque 128 oz. Speed 0.08
http://www.hitecrcd.com/Servos/hs5945mg.jpg
and some spares for my GT.

Does anyone here have the HG chassis? I was trying to decide between the HG and the Hard core one. The HC one is exactly the same as the stock one but made of Ti, where as the HG on is a completlt different shape and has a rippled pattern in the weak areas of the chassis. plus it just plain looks wicked:) my stock chassis is bent in the front, near the motor mounts, and at the back where the diff mounts. plus i will have to order some new chassis brace tubes for the front cause my current ones are bent, and if i want to keep my new chassis straight, bent braces wont help too much :p

TallMouse-
RPM do make some sick looking wheels, as well as their new blue chrome ones, which are wicked. i grabed a set of the blue chromes to use with sand paws for dune action, because if you use chrome wheels anywhere else, the chrome looks crappy after 2 crashes, where-as the sand wont damage the chrome.

1tuffRC10-
i know your talking about aero fuel, but i use heli fuel and its working better thenany car fuel i have ever used. its Power Master 15% heli fuel, and uses synthetic oil. and from what i know about synthetic oil, it says in manuals you need 15 or 16% oil, minimum, but with synthetic, you can get away with less oil, so if he has 15% synthitec oil, he is getting more lubrication the 15% castor oil, understand? anyways, like i said, im running heli fuel, and its in an RB and its working great, cant complain.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[TallMouse]

hey i need some pics of RC10GT's cause im makeing a web site and i need some pics to post on it and my e-mail is tallmouse@attbi.com so you can send them to me are just post them

[TallMouse]

does rpm have a site cause i can't find it?

also where would i buy these blue chrome wheels?

[atm92484_3]

Wallis, I'd go with the Hardcore one personally. I simply can't see how a chassis machined from a block of aluminum instead of stamped would be more rigid even if metal is left in areas to help with bracing.

Tallmouse, I think you're looking for www.rpmrcproducts.com

[TallMouse]

hey what axles do i get for a standard fatory team gt cause i have no clue 1/4" axles 3/16" axles

[TallMouse]

hey would these tires be good traction DuraTrax Street Traction cause i useling can't get around to a track so you think they would be a all around good tire Click Here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD342&P=M) to see them

[Wallis Racing]

TallMouse-
i would generaly keep away from dura-trax tires(and kits) cause they ae a very hard compound. if you want tires with that kind of tread, then look at the dirt hawg II's from proline, and if you want a more off road tire, look at the gladiator II's. look at prolines website http://www.prolineracing.com cause they make almost every kind of tire you could want, and their tire compounds are much better then the duratrax.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[gvnick]

Originally posted by TallMouse
hey what axles do i get for a standard fatory team gt cause i have no clue 1/4" axles 3/16" axles
The factory team comes with 3/16. The RTR has 1/4.

[Wallis Racing]

Oh yeah,
Just one question, does anyone know who makes SS hinge pins for the GT? I am just guessing that the stock ones are not SS because everyone on my truck is bent :p

oh, and why couldnt AE use a normal material in their shock shafts? what the hello is unobtainium? is it like treated SS or what? either way i have bent 2 of em and now i getting progressive suspension rear shocks cause i have a good excuse to get em :p

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[gvnick]

Lunsford makes some nice Titanium Hinge pins. I would recommend those.

As far as the Progrssive suspension, its pretty cool. I have it on all 4 corners of my GT. I got a good deal on them so thats why I have them. I personally dont think they are worth the $$ they cost new. But then again, they are indestructable. And everybody drools over them. So I guess that makes it worth it. LOL.

[1tuffRC10]

Why not go to your local gas station and buy a gallon of diesel fuel, mix a little gasoline and some 70% alcohol and call it your own personal blend. I don't think I'll spend nearly $200 on an engine and then run the cheapest fuel I can find in it. PM fuel is ok i guess. I ran a couple of gallons through my gt this summer. You are bashing duratrax so do you even know who makes powermaster! LOL Mouse if you are just bashing in the yard you may want the harder compound tires because they will last longer. BTW AE also makes titanium hinge pins although they are probably lunsford in AE wrapping. If you are bending chassis and pins the way you say, think T-MAXX!

[Wallis Racing]

oh my god we can have some fun here :rolleyes:

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Why not go to your local gas station and buy a gallon of diesel fuel, mix a little gasoline and some 70% alcohol and call it your own personal blend. I don't think I'll spend nearly $200 on an engine and then run the cheapest fuel I can find in it. PM fuel is ok i guess. I ran a couple of gallons through my gt this summer.
i cant believe how scepticle your being. i got 16L(4 gallons) through my X12, all of which was the Power master heli fuel. with my CV-RX, i was running some car fuel(cant remember what) and my engine was constantly over heating. put the power master through the engine, and it ran like a dream, so ive stuck to it since. and its not the cheapest fuel either. it is $50aus for 4L, and most other fuel around here go for about $14 for 2L, so its friggen expensive!

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
You are bashing duratrax so do you even know who makes powermaster! LOL
did i bash the fuel or whatever that duratrax makes? no, i said, and i quote, "i would generaly keep away from dura-trax tires(and kits) cause they ae a very hard compound." keep away from the tires cause they are a stupidly hard compound and the only good tires are the spikes, if you plan on using them on grass, but besides that their tires are very poor. and i said keep away from their kits, cause many of them have many defects. ok, they have some good kits, like i think they were the first to make a 50mph+ RTR, but thats as good as it gets. my LHS ordered about 10 duratrax kits, and 5 were gone after 1 week, and about 3 days after each was sold, they all came back with wrecked diffs. all of them, and my LHS was soo annoyed they have sent back all the kits, and have cancelled all orders from duratrax. but i never said anything about fuel. they also make good fuel tubing and fuel filters. ;)

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Mouse if you are just bashing in the yard you may want the harder compound tires because they will last longer.
when i say, hard compound, i mean rock hard. if you want a tire that will last ages, get the proline dirt hawg II's, or something similar, i ran them for almost 2 years with stuff all wear on them. but the dura trax tires are almost too hard to use. if you have ever used HPI V- grooves, half the traction that they get, and you get the traction of duratrax tires.

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
If you are bending chassis and pins the way you say, think T-MAXX!
T-maxx, LOL, lets not go into that. want to know what my chassis is bent? take 2 RB Concept X12 powered factory team GTs and point them at each other at WOT! i spose if you did it with T-maxx's, it wouldnt have bent the chassis, but thats for a totaly different reason(slow!) And the only damage our 2 GTs obtained was bent chassis, 1 broken front arm and a few missing nylon wheel nuts. And the reason the rear of the chassis is bent, failed backflip, 12foot high, right on the rear shock tower, with the stock tranny brace. which afterwards looked like this ~ .Also resulted in a broken rear bulk head and broken diff case.

anyways, enough raving,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[1tuffRC10]

You must have a very big wallet to just go out and trash good race trucks like that. We had a jump at a local track that would throw a truck over a 6 foot fence easily. I can't drive but I never bent a chassis like that. BTW I have seen two T Maxx's hit head on at WOT. One broke an arm but the other finished the race. You never told us who makes power master fuel!

[soslo]

The unibodiummm whatever shocks shafts are made of harder material, but are also more brittle than the stock ones.
Have ya'll looked at the Proline wheels? The rears are recessed in like the Losi, so you don't have to dig around trying to tighten the nut.
Ya'll do need to stop being so mean to your trucks!! These things ain't bullet proof. :)
In 3 1/2 years, all that has broken on this one has been one of the original team turnbucles (upgraded to the blue ones), and a steering knuckle. Come to find out the set screw was loose, and tagged the same pipe too many times, and it just cracked.

[JCason]

Originally posted by TallMouse
would these be good tires for driving around

Click Here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDT95&P=0)

I have some of the speed paws you just posted a pic of. They are great in sand and wet mud, ok in gravel but not great and they suck in the grass. I personally would buy another pair but they would not be my first choice. I like the gladiators for normal conditions and Mashers for bashing in rough conditions.

[OldskoolGT]

AE's "unobtanium" is a titanium nitrocarbide coating (TiCN) applied to what I am guessing is a regular shock shaft. TiCN is a super hard coating which makes the shock shaft very scratch resistant.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
[COLOR=blue]Oh yeah,
Just one question, does anyone know who makes SS hinge pins for the GT? I am just guessing that the stock ones are not SS because everyone on my truck is bent :p
[COLOR]

I'm a little late here, but the stock pins are equal if not a little better than the SS pins (HPI brand) that you are referring to. AE makes titanium pins, but like nick said, I too reccomend just getting the Lundsford ones.

Tallmouse, defiently go for the Dirt Hawgs. Both Mad Man and myself are former NMT drivers, and we can both vouch for the stock tires on that truck lasting forever. I just wore out a set for my GT that was 2 years old this summer. The only place they don't really work well in with 2wd is either wet or deeper grass.

[soslo]

Hey OldskoolGT.
They are definitely smoother! The ones we tried for electric racing, on the Losi truck and buggy, just didn't hold up to my son's racing style. I never saw so many bent and broken shafts! LOL!! :) Could 10 turn D4's have anything to do with it? hehe!
We never tried them in the GT after that. For the racing around here, he is very competitive with the stock ones, and has no problem with them. To each his own. :)

[TallMouse]

Originally posted by JCason
I have some of the speed paws you just posted a pic of. They are great in sand and wet mud, ok in gravel but not great and they suck in the grass. I personally would buy another pair but they would not be my first choice. I like the gladiators for normal conditions and Mashers for bashing in rough conditions.
i think i will get those gladiator tires they seem good for my place

also send me pics so for i only got one pic

[gvnick]

Glads are great

[TallMouse]

i don't whant to spend to much so what stuff do you think i should not buy out of this

Pro-Line M2 Gladiator 2.2 Truck Tire (2)

RPM Clawz Blue Chrome Associated 3/16" (2)

RPM Clawz Blue Chrome Wheel Associated Front (2)

RPM Receiver Box Blue GT

RPM Front A-Arms Neon Blue GT, 10T, T2

RPM Rear A-Arms Neon Blue GT, 10T, T2

RPM 3 Degree Rear Mounts Blue Associated GT

RPM Mini Bumper Blue 10T/T2/GT

RPM Adjustable Body Mounts Blue GT/T2

all of this is about $100

[atm92484_3]

I'd start by cutting out the body mounts, mini bumper, and the 3 degree rear arm mounts.

[sosidge]

The receiver box is a nice part, seals the receiver from the muck and wet.

The tyres will obviously help since that is what you were asking about in the first place.

The rest is just eye-candy really (although the RPM parts are a bit tougher, there's no point fitting them until you've broken the originals)

[TallMouse]

k this is my new list

Pro-Line M2 Gladiator 2.2 Truck Tire (2)

RPM Clawz Blue Chrome Associated 3/16" (2)

RPM Clawz Blue Chrome Wheel Associated Front (2)

RPM Receiver Box Blue GT

all this about $64

[dog8spam]

My GT is having problems with dieng for no reason. When I hit the brakes the car will stall and almost die. The wierd thing is it only happens every so often, 80% of the time it idles fine.

[1tuffRC10]

Sounds like there is something wrong with your clutch. Be sure that the carb is open enough at idle, but it sounds like either clutch bearings or shoes are sticking.

[TallMouse]

send me pics

[TommyT]

I have been on this forum for a while now and I haven't seen much talk about Radios and receivers.

I have two RTR GT's and the radios that came with them.(one each for my son and I) What would be a good mid price replacement?

I have a JR XR2-Am that we purchased with a HPI RS4Pro a couple of years ago. I am sure that this radio and receiver would be a good replacement for one of my trucks but what would you suggest for the other?

I guess FM or PC would be the first order of business. What radios do you all like? How about aftermarket receivers and what about frequency synthesis?

BTW, I swithched from Fut. to JR in Airplanes many years ago and have always thought of JR to be very reliable and of the highest quality. Anything wrong with the JR XR3i? Also, I never see any of the JR servos recommended. Is JR just not as popular because it is not as readily available?

[slow one 2]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid45/pfd2074cac823a07701d5229d57ede952/fcd20c9e.jpg.orig.jpg

any ideas why this picture wont come up?????:(

[slaf]

hi all

I want to run my stock FT 10GT on grass for bashing, do you recommand special tire or setup ?

[ross]

Originally posted by slow one 2
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid45/pfd2074cac823a07701d5229d57ede952/fcd20c9e.jpg.orig.jpg

any ideas why this picture wont come up?????:(

Doesnt it tell you in the image above? Image Station do not let you post your images externally. You need to find a image host who will let you post pictures externally. You could also use your ISP's webspace and use a FTP programme to upload your pictures.

[ross]

Originally posted by slaf
hi all

I want to run my stock FT 10GT on grass for bashing, do you recommand special tire or setup ?


Do you have a tyre manufacterer called ARP in the states? Ifso, then they make some very good grass tyres such has the full spikes, cut spikes, mini spikes etc, they do a wide range, you just have to pick the ones depending on what type of grass you will be running on.

Ifnot then I would reccomend either the Traxxas Protrax (I use these for racing, very good) or something like the Proline Speed Hawg. Basically use anything on the back that has a long(ish) spikey tread and that arent to close together also make sure you get a decent med to hard compound.

Has for the front there is only one way to go, Schumacer Staggered Ribs, you can get these in lots of different compounds. If you are running on dry grass get a softer compound and if you are running in wet grass get a harder compound.


Hope this helped

Ross.

[slaf]

I'd prefer BIG tires like the proline Masher 2000...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=1074-00&FVPROFIL=++

[TallMouse]

would they fit on a rc10gt?

[slaf]

Yes there are 2.2"....

But I need to change my gear ratio....

[TallMouse]

yea but it will take off 10 miles an hour off your truck

[slaf]

Or can I use the HPI wheel hub (12mm) adapter for 10GT and TMAXX tires ???

[ross]

I dont like Masher 2k's they make your GT look like a monster truck :p JMO

Yes they will fit, and yes you could use HPI wheels if you use the wheel hub adapter that comes with them. Just to note that they arent actually T-MAXX tyres, they have a simular thread but the TMAXX tyres are bigger.

[slaf]

Do you think I can use TMAXX rims and tires with the HPI wheel adapter on my 10GT ?

[ross]

Originally posted by slaf
Do you think I can use TMAXX rims and tires with the HPI wheel adapter on my 10GT ?

No.

The HPI wheel adaptor is only meant for use with their stadium truck wheels. I cant see how it would work with TMAXX rims and tyres because I think the hex is bigger, plus you have some clearance problems with shock absorbers on the truck etc.

You could give it ago but I doubt it would work.


Ross.

[TallMouse]

why bother with those size of tires the whole point of a truck is to get fast and ect not to go slow over rocks if you whnat big wheels go get a monster truck

[TallMouse]

sence i just got a reciever box so it stays closed i need a on and off switch are something cause i can't take off the top every time to unplug the battery pack so does any body know where to find something like that cause i don't know what to call it

[1tuffRC10]

I run a jumper cord from the reciever to the outside of the box and plug the batts in direct without a switch. If that switch gets fuel on it or a little dirt in the right place, you have a runaway. Besides they are about 20 bucks for a decent one. My truck plugs together beside of the reciever box. It works well and has for about a year now.

[1tuffRC10]

I run a jumper cord from the reciever to the outside of the box and plug the batts in direct without a switch. If that switch gets fuel on it or a little dirt in the right place, you have a runaway. Besides they are about 20 bucks for a decent one. My truck plugs together beside of the reciever box. It works well and has for about a year now.

[TallMouse]

you mean kind of like this

[1tuffRC10]

Not exactly but that would work ok. I run the battery wires up to the reciever box. With all those wires and plug on the rear shock tower, a shot in the rear could cut the wires. It would be ok for bashing but I like to take care of all possible problems before a race. I was hit in the rear very hard at one track and the batts broke. It also cut the wires at the shock tower and I didn't notice it until just before a Q. No power to the servos, no race. LOL

[1tuffRC10]

Oops, didn't notice that you are still running disposables. With a nicad reciever pack, the wires are long enough to reach to the reciever box. BTW Before you put that disposable pack in the truck again, tape the batts in the pack. I run electrical tape around those packs long ways to keep the batts from getting slid away from the contacts on the side without springs. If anyone of those batts break contact you will lose control.

[TallMouse]

good point but sence im getting the receiver box that comeing tommoro i need a nother way of unpluging the battery cause of the box unless the top of the box comes off with out screws i don't know but i will tommoro

[1tuffRC10]

On that radio question: FM. Always FM on nitro. It is a much clearer signal and doesn't get affected by the engine as bad. JMO

[TallMouse]

whats wrong with disposables they last longer cause of the battery life and just plain easyer and don't have to charge them

[TallMouse]

k i was just driving my car with my new tires and i was wondering how fast can a RC10GT with a .12 os crx truck go cause i dosen't seem like its going 50mph

[silverslugger]

I'm new to Nitro and bought an RC10GT FT and a OS .15 CV-R to put in it. My local track doesn't have any restrictions on the size of the engine you can use. So, I thought, go for the gusto. I haven't gotten the engine broken in yet, so I don't really know how it's going to run. I'm getting the feeling, talking to others, that the .15 CV-R may be too much power for off-road? Anyone use a .15 CV-R in their GT???

[OldskoolGT]

TallMouse,

It probably didn't seem like your GT wasn't going 50 mph because it wasn't. A stock geared GT with any engine in it will top out somewhere in the low 30 mph range. With a 22 tooth clutch bell and a 60 tooth spur gear, a GT might break 50 mph with a really powerful engine.

silverslugger,

A guy at my local track has a .15 CV-R in his GT and it doesn't seem to be any "worse" than any other powerful small block. You can always try toning down the power with different pipes or gearing it taller.

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
whats wrong with disposables they last longer cause of the battery life and just plain easyer and don't have to charge them
i don't have that much money so rechargables are the way to go for me. when my batts. die i just recharge them and away i go.l

[1tuffRC10]

King, good point. Also disposables do not have the power required to run good servos very long. If you practice a couple tanks and run 3 Q's and a 30 minute main you will need more batts if you are running high end servos.

[2002rc10gt]

I HAVE AN RTR GT WITH THE FACTORY AE ENGINE. I JUST PUT A NEW PISTON AND SLEEVE IN IT, AND HAVE TWO TANKS OF FUEL RUN THROUGH IT. THE ONLY PROBLEM I HAVE WITH IT IS THAT WHEN I STOP THE TRUCK IT IDLES HIGH FOR ABOUT 5-10 SECONDS THEN IT IDLES DOWN. IS THIS OK OR DOES IT INDICATE AN AIR LEAK? I HAVE SEALED THE CARB AND BACKPLATE WITH 02 SENSOR SAFE SILICON. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

[sosidge]

Tall Mouse - I think you misunderstand what the receiver box does. It holds the receiver (near the servo), not the receiver pack. You will still be able to use the switch on the rear shock mount to turn the truck off, and then take out your receiver pack as usual.

If you want to have a sealed rx pack - get a 5-cell hump rx pack - it'll give the same voltage as 4 Alkaline AA's, and will be cheaper and less hassle in the long run.

[TallMouse]

Originally posted by sosidge
Tall Mouse - I think you misunderstand what the receiver box does. It holds the receiver (near the servo), not the receiver pack. You will still be able to use the switch on the rear shock mount to turn the truck off, and then take out your receiver pack as usual.

If you want to have a sealed rx pack - get a 5-cell hump rx pack - it'll give the same voltage as 4 Alkaline AA's, and will be cheaper and less hassle in the long run.

what i was talking about is the receiver cover (the box that you can buy to put your receiver in) would cover up the box so i would not be able to unplug the battery pack cause it would be screwed shut.

[TallMouse]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
TallMouse,

It probably didn't seem like your GT wasn't going 50 mph because it wasn't. A stock geared GT with any engine in it will top out somewhere in the low 30 mph range. With a 22 tooth clutch bell and a 60 tooth spur gear, a GT might break 50 mph with a really powerful engine.


i wonder where i read that it could go 50mph maybe it was some foriegn site and it was like 50mzh are somethign like that

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by 2002rc10gt
I HAVE AN RTR GT WITH THE FACTORY AE ENGINE. I JUST PUT A NEW PISTON AND SLEEVE IN IT, AND HAVE TWO TANKS OF FUEL RUN THROUGH IT. THE ONLY PROBLEM I HAVE WITH IT IS THAT WHEN I STOP THE TRUCK IT IDLES HIGH FOR ABOUT 5-10 SECONDS THEN IT IDLES DOWN. IS THIS OK OR DOES IT INDICATE AN AIR LEAK? I HAVE SEALED THE CARB AND BACKPLATE WITH 02 SENSOR SAFE SILICON. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

It actually sounds like the low-end might be a little lean.

[1tuffRC10]

Get rid of that silicone. If you have that much of a leak then get another engine. The silicone may just be your leak. Why would you even use it?

[ross]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Get rid of that silicone. If you have that much of a leak then get another engine. The silicone may just be your leak. Why would you even use it?

???

Silicone is the best way to get rid of a air leak, the latest article on RC Nitro is how to detect and stop a air leak and it reccomends using silicone.

[1tuffRC10]

Sorry but IMO silicone is junk. I build real cars for a living. Just never believed in that stuff. I have seen it create more problems than it fixed. Just another case of you can find anything you want to in the web! Guess I'm from the old school and hard headed. LOL In nearly all cases of air or any kind of leaks on an engine, if you clean everything and it still leaks, replace the o ring or gasket. This will take care of it most of the time. If not then there usually is something wrong, very wrong that needs to be replaced. With the close tollerances on these little engines, that silicone can get everywhere. No matter how little you use. The only sealer I use on an engine is a little lock tite on the crank where it sits in the inner bearing. BTW I heard of a guy that took silicone and covered his tyco rc's with silicone. He then would put a flag on his antenna and drive his rc around in the edge of a lake. Duh!

[wannabee]

I'm a little confused. What is really the correct way to check the temp. I have heard when using a temp sensor to shoot it at the glow plug. Then you see in articles in magazines when doing the spit test to do that on the to of the heat sink. The last one i've seen is to use an on board temp sensor and attach this at the bottom of the heat sink. Are all of these methodes correct? It seems this would give you very differant temp readings pointing a temp sensor at each one of these areas. Is the temp sensor with the optional pointer worth the extra cash? I'm looking to buy a new one and this is were all of these questions came from.

Thanks alot!

[Ford850]

I just bought the 4-n-1 clutch. Can anyone tell me which is the best way to install the cluch to the Flywheel for back-yard bashing and road racing. #1,#2,#3,or #4
btw. I am running a .15 CV-X

Thanks

[slow one 2]

I just bought a now cv12 and want to put a better head on it. the only thing is it has to be red who makes a red head that will be better than the stock one???:D

[bubbastump]

tower# LXTC86
stage 2 cooling head for os.12http://
i use the purple one. get an a5 plug
it is a med i use it in 30 deg to 100 deg 30%-99% humidity
no problems over here
if u get the head u will need to richen it up a bit it runs alot cooler than the red head

go to tower hobbies they have different colors
they r odonnel deads but they cant sell them so they call them duratrax


it works fine

[1tuffRC10]

I would start with 2 setting and go from there. My experience with the 1 setting is that it will slip a little too much in good traction. I have tried the 3 setting and it does give a little more engine brake I believe.

[slow one 2]

I need a red heatsink, my son does not want any other color any other suggestions. i've found every color including green but not red. someone must make a red one help!!!

[TallMouse]

huh i thought most of them where red but i think OS makes a red one cause thats what i got


o yea my new blue hubs and tires just came in they look cool and work twice as good

[TallMouse]

hey bubbastump why you got so much tubing?

[1tuffRC10]

Good question. My guess is fuel milage. Wannabe, I take my temp gun and hold it about 1 to 1/2 inches above the head. Kind of hold it over the head and watch for the highest temp. IMO They want the temp off the top of the head because if you get the temp of the plug, I've seen it go way high and have no power. My way I look for around 200 degrees. Sometimes it will get higher, sometimes cooler.

[The King]

Originally posted by Ford850
I just bought the 4-n-1 clutch. Can anyone tell me which is the best way to install the cluch to the Flywheel for back-yard bashing and road racing. #1,#2,#3,or #4
btw. I am running a .15 CV-X

Thanks

I hear the best setting is number 2:D

[bubbastump]

all the tubing is there so i can do an extended test
im testing the duct cooler and the diflector together and seperate so i can copy results and performance changes
these are some of the things that will be for sale as soon as we get all the data and make a deal with part supplier

[1tuffRC10]

What kind of parts are you testing. Got any pics? Want to race Sunday?

[1tuffRC10]

Did you figure out that deal about your pipe?

[TallMouse]

i was takeing aport my clutch and makeing sure every thing is clean and ect.. and i was looking at my spur gear and i has been warn down from what it first was i know this cause the part the bell didn't hit it was like it should me but whats causing this cause if any thing i have them to close together so i just want to know is this normal and if theres something i should do to fix it from hapening again.

*edit* and if i get a nother spur does it have to match the clutch bells teeth are can i just pick any of them and what spur teeth comes in the factory team kit

thx

TallMouse

[TallMouse]

also i broke off the lever thing on my gas tank so i was thinking about getting a nother one as was wondering whats the largest gas tank that can fit on a rc10gt withought modifications

ps it don't matter if its not race legal cause this is just my back yard bashing truck

[Wallis Racing]

TallMouse-
I'm pretty sure no larger tanks will fit in with no mods. anything larger will required holes drilled and parts hacked up. if you dont find anything larger, the best 75cc tank i recomend is the NTC3 fuel tank its part #7719. its good cause its reverse fill, and the presure pipe goes into the top of the lid, so you dont get that suck-back effect that the stock tank and updated tank have.

1tuffRC10-
thats my truck in that pic back on page 252 that tallmouse posted. I did learn very quickly that the batt packs with disposables need to be taped up, because when they are zip-tied to the truck, the little springs are not strong enough to push the battery back onto the contact plate when the batts move and there is a zip-tie on them(you know what i mean). so for ages now i have been taping up the packs for added safety. Also, with regards to the plugs, i put a tiny ziptie between the wires on each plug(as in attached picture, red line would be the zip-tie) this almost garenties that the plugs will not disconnect, unless i land of a pair of scissers that are just about to close :rolleyes:

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Did you figure out that deal about your pipe?
I am going for a test run today and I will see if the problem is solved. I bought a new coupler that fits really good. So we will have to see. I will let you know:D

[sosidge]

TallMouse - The standard spur is a plastic 66 tooth (32pitch). the gear mesh should be set so there is only the tiniest amount of play - so you can just rock the spur back and forth without moving the clutch bell. Check your engine mounts are firmly tightened, so they don't move - threadlock is your friend here.

[low_ridah10]

Can someone tell me what manifold to get for my RC10GT? I just purchased a non pullstart os 12 cv-r and I dont know if i need a different manifold or not? I had a pullstart os 12 cv before. Even if i dont need a new one i would still like to buy a new one thats for the non pullstart and is also blue. Could someone let me know what a good one is for the os 12 cv-r. I am also using the stock pipe. Thanks!

[ross]

Use the Associated Blue Non Pullstart manifold, the part number is 7758 and its the exact same one that I have on my non pullstart CVR.



Ross.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by low_ridah10
...I just purchased a non pullstart os 12 cv-r and I dont know if i need a different manifold or not?......

The pull-start manifold WILL fit a non-PS engine, it just rides a little higher, the correct one will sit a little lower and thus lower it's C.O. G. a bit.

[Ford850]

I am having two problems with my engine.
1) Ever since I install my MIP 4-n-1 clutch (#2) my engine will cut off or bog down when I hit the gas. Which way do I have to turn the low speed needle to solve this problem?
2) It seems like there is a lot of oil coming out of the exhaust pipe. My driveway is covered with oil lines is this normal. I am using Red Alert 20%

Thanks

[trxstr1961]

Just got a another rtr chassis, gonna rebuild the truck FINALLY!! wanting to know if i should run the stock engine or should a new mill be purchased :confused:

[Polk]

what is the reccomened oil and nitro content to use with a rtr plus?
thanks

[1tuffRC10]

ford 850 take your clutch off and check if the spring has come apart or the bearings are out. Not sure about that red alert stuff, not going there again! It does sound a little rich. The pull start manifold will fit but if you use the non pull start engine mount the control arm will hit. The pull start manifold comes down a bit more than a non ps so when you lower the engine with the non ps mount they hit. I bent mine up just a little and that was that. It could break a control arm if it doesn't clear. Wallis racin, as I said before with all those wires wrapped around the rear shock tower, a hit in the rear from another truck could cut your wires. It has happened, I know. Even if the front of the truck that hit you is not equipped with a pair of scissors. No wire tie is going to hold a cut wire into!

[Mystracing]

2002RG10GT - What fuel tank are you running? It sounds like foaming in the fuel tank causing the high idle problem. If your running the old TC3 tank or over tightened you gas tank screws it will cause the symptoms you describe. Doesn't sound like an air leak at all.

Wannabee - In simple terms your correct. You will get different readings with the different methods. The important thing is whatever method you pick be consistant. The spit test is far from scientific and should only be used if you have no other choice. Using a temp gun very close to the motor pointed at the plug will read the hottest. The temp probe mounted at the bottom of the head is the next hottest, then a temp gun held about 4 inches above the engine pointed at the glow plug. It's really necessary to learn how to tune the engine properly based on performance and smoke output first. If you run an engine at 220 on the top of the head it will be way too hot at the cylinder. On a OS CVR you should be pretty close with these temps. 200-220 with temp gun held 4-6 inches above head (my preference) 220-240 with probe attached at bottom of head and 250-260 reading from temp gun pointed at glow plu from like 1/2" away. In all caser the engine temp would be about the same. If you take a temp gun and hold it close to the motor you can get all kinds of different readings.

[Mystracing]

BubbaStump - If the Duratrax head is actually the same as an O'donnell your running the wrong glow plug. The O'donnell uses the long McCoy plug. If they're the same by using the short OS plug your giving up a lot of compression and power.

Ford850 - Sounds like your just to rich on the bottom end. I know that's been answered, but the answer to your other question is you need to turn the screw clockwise. You didn't say what engine your running so I can't recommend how far.

[Mystracing]

Here's a similar solution to the battery attaching issue. I didn't like the small wires hanging off the back of the truck so I wired the reciever pack from the pack to the engine with 14 guage wire and deans plugs. See the picture, it's of my old truck but I'm still using it and never had a problem with it wired this way. I've had a GT pretty much since they had white a-arms.

I also got rid of the switch after getting rear ended, turning off the switch, which resulted in a broken conn rod.

http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/html/ltop.jpg

[trxstr1961]

yo myst, nice ride ya got, still got the tub i c :) im running the RTR version, like it alot!

since noe i have a spare chassis, gonna try and get ANOTHER built from all the parts i have around here! :D

[Ford850]

You didn't say what engine your running so I can't recommend how far.

I have a .15 CV-x

[Mystracing]

trxstr1961 - Thanks that was a nice truck. I'm actually running the blue chassis factory team now though.

Ford850 - I'm assunimg a rotary carb. Turn it 1/16 of a turn. If it's still blowing fuel bad do it again until the throttle response is crisp, but it still spits a little bit. You will likely also have to turn the idle screw counter clockwise to slow the idle down. If it's too lean it will burn the glow plug but typically doesn't hurt the engine. If you go more than a 1/4 turn you've gone too far.

[bubbastump]

maybe it is just a duratrax but ive been told by a # of people it is a odonnel i dunno



the parts i am testing is an air diverter and the duct cooler
i am testing together and seperate trying to get everything right
if everything goes well and my supplier doesnt back out on us we will be selling them
also the tensioner tool will be sold just tryin to get a good deal from supplier so we can sell them cheaper to yall
other wise they would be like 55 bux and that means less money to race and for parts

[coolracer47]

Hey guys i just put in a os .15 cv-x i got for christmas in my gt. Im going to break it in tommorrow.

[bubbastump]

awesome motor or so ive heard
my gt is a prototype fer parts i still put it back to specs fer racin

[TallMouse]

dis sucks i just got my new clutch and bearings and i was driving my turkc around and all of a sudden it just stops and i wonder whats wrong and i look at it and the e clip had came off the my bearing shot some where into the mud so i will never find it and my two shoe things both got choped up by the spurs momentum and this is all cause i was so stupid that i didn't snap the e clip on all the way so im going to have to wait a nother week cause theres no close hobby store where i live *sigh* and sence i have have to buy it online i have to buy a 2 dollar part and pay like 8 bucks for shiping and handling

so i need to buy something else so it isn't a complete waste of money and was wondering does any body have the DuraTrax Pit Tech Deluxe Car Stand and is it any good?

[Pro3/nmt105]

I suggest you buy the bearings in bulk cause they go alot and you dont really have to get the ae ones if u can find cheaper ones go for it. at my lhs they sell me 2 bearings of what i think are good quality for 7 bux at my track they sell the ae clutchbell bearing set and its 15 bux! go for the cheaper ones and you can get more. I suggest you get the mip 4 in 1 clutch if you dont have it yet.

[Pro3/nmt105]

oh and you can use tower parts express shipping and pay only 3.50 for shipping.

[Pro3/nmt105]

oh also, bend the clip a little before you put it on it stays on much better. (if only i could remember everything and put it in one post)

[Mystracing]

BubbaStump - I wasn't trying to argue weather it's an O'donnell or not, I don't have a clue about weather it is or not, and wouldn't be surprised if it is. I just thought I'd mention the fact about the glow plug because over the years I've seen a lot of people run a short (OS) plug in an O'donnell head and end up scratching thier head at why thier truck doeesn't seem to be as strong as other trucks with the cv-O'donnell combination.

[bubbastump]

np dude i run with mt12's and clean motor on a regular basis
no problems over here

[Polk]

what is the reccomend oil and nitro content to use for the rtr plus?

[TallMouse]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I suggest you buy the bearings in bulk cause they go alot and you dont really have to get the ae ones if u can find cheaper ones go for it. at my lhs they sell me 2 bearings of what i think are good quality for 7 bux at my track they sell the ae clutchbell bearing set and its 15 bux! go for the cheaper ones and you can get more. I suggest you get the mip 4 in 1 clutch if you dont have it yet.
when you are talking about the 4 in 1 cluth do you mean this Click here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3378&P=7)

and what about the stand any of you got it and do you like it?

[bubbastump]

yeah i got it its handy if you r doin some work on multipule sides
its worth it

[The King]

The wife is trying to tell me that I am spending to much money on my GT then its worth. Little does she know I am not DONE lol. I told her I could be spending my money at the bar or the stripe club. But know I am spending it on a inacint hobby. I still need so many up grades. I could spend another $200.00 or so. I guess we will see if I win or not. I will keep you posted

D.King

[Mrzoidburg]

Geez, you guys have been busy since i last came here! I hope to be a regular visitor again as the baby is not my biggest priority anymore and the novelty of my WRX is wearing off, time to drag my old toys out of the closet!
:)

[ross]

Originally posted by Mystracing
Here's a similar solution to the battery attaching issue. I didn't like the small wires hanging off the back of the truck so I wired the reciever pack from the pack to the engine with 14 guage wire and deans plugs. See the picture, it's of my old truck but I'm still using it and never had a problem with it wired this way. I've had a GT pretty much since they had white a-arms.

I also got rid of the switch after getting rear ended, turning off the switch, which resulted in a broken conn rod.

http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/html/ltop.jpg

Hi there, I am also not happy about them skinny wires on the back of my GT especially near the engine because of the heat. Yours looks like a great idea, I have a question though. How did you connect the 14 guage wire to the thinner wires?


Thanks.

[1tuffRC10]

Well I don't know where to start on the clutch bearing deal. You get what you pay for! Cheap bearings are junk in a clutch period. They get hot inside the clutch bell. I have a method for oiling AE clutch bearings that was told to me by a friend, that works great. As for the e clip, again junk IMO. I use a 3/16 circlip like a losi uses. It stays put even if your bearings do go out. Hey King you forgot the first rule of RC if you are married, hide the reciepts! My local hobby shop has a trash can setting beside the door for that reason! We call them evidence. Bubba can you explain those parts a little more?

[1tuffRC10]

I'm going racing Sunday. Is any one else?

[ross]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I'm going racing Sunday. Is any one else?

I was going to but Im having problems breaking in my new CVR, so I wont be able to.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I'm going racing Sunday. Is any one else?

I can't wait to start racing, everybody out here in Wisconsin race in the spring-summer time. It's to wet out to race around here:(

[Wallis Racing]

HEY MR Z!!
havent heard from you in AGES! did you ever make it to the new unofficial HPI forum? sorry i cant remember how long you've been out of action with little Z, but if you havent been yet, check out:
http://www.hpiforums.com/
most of the oldies from the old forum are there, kedar, DFF, Edz, you know.

if i remember correctly your GT is probably in need of some new hop-ups, like a nice new engine of something? ;) LOL

anyways, good to see some aussies around,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[wannabee]

Myst- Are you the same myst as myst racing team that has a link off of the AE site? Thanks for your help. From what you said I take it you would get the temp sensor with the aiming device?

[trxstr1961]

guess my "project gt" is just a pile of parts. :(

Only parts i have so far is the complete front end, and the engine mount.
Then, on the rear all I have is 1 arm mounted. Looks like its gonna stay a parts truck for right now :(

[The King]

I just put in the CVDs in my GT and now when I slam on the gas the back always kicks out to the right. Is there something that is to tight that it always kicks out this way? Or what. You would think that it would have a possie tracktion or something like that. Is there any think I can do to prevent this other then not slamming on the gas? LOL

Thanks
D.King:D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I just put in the CVDs in my GT and now when I slam on the gas the back always kicks out to the right.....

Trying to visualize here, are you saying it spins out? Or one wheel spins before the other, like the power is not going equally to both wheels? Elaborate a bit . . .

In the first case use your slipper. In the second, yes it sounds like something on the left side is binding up a bit causing the diff to distribute the power to the right more than the left . . . .

Or is it just a torque issue because your slipper is nailed down tight?

[The King]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Trying to visualize here, are you saying it spins out? Or one wheel spins before the other, like the power is not going equally to both wheels? Elaborate a bit . . .

In the first case use your slipper. In the second, yes it sounds like something on the left side is binding up a bit causing the diff to distribute the power to the right more than the left . . . .

Or is it just a torque issue because your slipper is nailed down tight?
It could be a torque issue because it did nailed down the slipper a bit just so I could his some wheelies LOL. That could be the problem. I never thought of that. I will loosen it up a bit and go for a test run. :D

[chachi]

i have an rtr that has been hopped up over the last year. i love the truck.

in terms of upgrades, what is the benefit of CVD's other than not loosing the dogbones if you bust something? i have heard they are more efficient, but how much difference is there really?

also, what is the advantage to switching to the FT chassis? it appears to be lighter and longer. does this actually make any difference when driving?

[wannabee]

chachi- If you have the old shorter rtr chassis as I did I can tell you it makes a big differance. The car is much more stable on a bumpy track. I also did the cvd upgrade and I can honestly say I didn't noticed a very big differance here. Maybe some of the other guys here that are better drivers than I am will have more input on the cvd's vs. the dogbones.

[The King]

I just got me a gas filter, I was wondering if this is to much line between the carb and the filter? It so where would a good spot be to mount this?:(

[bubbastump]

heres an elaboration on parts
duct cooler a 3/8 ,1/2, 5/8 tube runnin from front of bumper and aiming at cooling head

air diverter look at the hotbodies lightning rr aslo known as a splash guard keeps fuel from splashing onto electronics and diverts air more to the head

[dog8spam]

My car dies every time it flips over, what could be causing this?

Yes that is long, I am in a rush now so i cant tell where to put yer

[bubbastump]

u need more tubing from tank to carb

[trxstr1961]

thats ttttooo much tubing, all you need to do is turn the tank nipple around and run a short peice from the carb to the tank

[The King]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
thats ttttooo much tubing, all you need to do is turn the tank nipple around and run a short peice from the carb to the tank
did you notice i have a filter. There is no room to turn it around and run the filter from the tank to the carb. i did have it that way when i didn't have a filter but now i have to filter so that was the rout i had to go. Now my question is, is there a better place to run this with less hose?:D

[bubbastump]

if u run with a short tube u will stall when u go turtle:rolleyes:
LOOK where the intake is on the tank
can we say bottom? if you lenghen the tubing there is fuel in the tube when upsidedown giving marshal or u runnin to flip it up .
then when u hit the gas fuel is pushed through lessininf the solid air pocket.
well assuming u have the tube from pipe to the tank. and that it has loops in that.
did u watch the viedo that came with your car:confused:
i didnt watch it and i lost p/s in first 10 min:mad:
i learned the hard way and i dont want anyone to be dumb like me:D

[bubbastump]

run the tube around cooling head
u can get a heat shield to protect tubing from heat

[Mystracing]

ross - I just cut a lead off of a stock servo, stripped the wires and soldered then to the 14 guage wirre and heat shrinked them. The tie wrap above the tranny will keep the heavier wire from moving so you don't have to worry pulling the small wires out of the reciever.

wannabee - Yes, I'm the guy who wrote the Myst Racing web site. I'm actually working on updating it rite now. I spent last year running both on and offroad so the site got pretty neglected but I'm back to only offroad now. If you can scrape up the 85 bones I highly recommend the infrared temp gun with aiming device. It's money well spent.

Kingitme69 - There's nothig wrong with running a long fuel line from the tank to the carb. It's not uncommon amongst racers to solve the problem of stalling upside down as mentioned above. Most commonly people just loop around the front of the tank ang go back down the middle between the tank and the throttle servo. Just make sure the fuel is out of the line before you put it away so it doesn't gum up the carb. The fuel filter can also cause a problem if the fuel is left in it, because it will gum up the screen.

[The King]

Originally posted by Mystracing
ross - I just cut a lead off of a stock servo, stripped the wires and soldered then to the 14 guage wirre and heat shrinked them. The tie wrap above the tranny will keep the heavier wire from moving so you don't have to worry pulling the small wires out of the reciever.

wannabee - Yes, I'm the guy who wrote the Myst Racing web site. I'm actually working on updating it rite now. I spent last year running both on and offroad so the site got pretty neglected but I'm back to only offroad now. If you can scrape up the 85 bones I highly recommend the infrared temp gun with aiming device. It's money well spent.

Kingitme69 - There's nothig wrong with running a long fuel line from the tank to the carb. It's not uncommon amongst racers to solve the problem of stalling upside down as mentioned above. Most commonly people just loop around the front of the tank ang go back down the middle between the tank and the throttle servo. Just make sure the fuel is out of the line before you put it away so it doesn't gum up the carb. The fuel filter can also cause a problem if the fuel is left in it, because it will gum up the screen.

So I am find with my line set up this way:confused: That is what i was hoping to hear.

Thanks
D.King

[low_ridah10]

Iam Currently in the process of converting my tub chassis RC10GT into the newer version. Iam not sure of everything i need to buy to do this. I do not just want to change the chassis, I want to change EVERYTHING to the new truck. Also iam changing the motor from a pullstart OS 12 CV-X to a non pullstart OS 12 CV-R(S). Could someone please tell me what I am missing for things I need for my conversion for both the motor and the rest of the truck. Here is a list of what I know of:

-Chassis Upgrade Kit (non pullstart)
-OS 12 CV-R(S)
-Associated Starterbox
-Lightweight aluminum screw set
-MIP 4 N 1 Clutch
-Associated Non Pullstart Manifold

Do I Need a New flywheel? Will the Associated Non Pull flywheel work on the CV-R?

Also What do I need to change the axle size from the old to the new?

I bought the starterbox and it doesnt seem to fit the tub chassis, should it, or does it only fit the new chassis?

Is there anything I am missing?

Thanks for the replys!
Jimmy

[atm92484_3]

That should do it and the AE flywheel will work with the CV-R. I wouldn't waste my money though on the aluminum screw kit. I've snapped a few in crashes and have replaced them with aluminum ones. If you want to change the axle size, you'll just need the 3/16" axles, the 3/16" bearings for the rear, and 3/16" rims. Aside from those parts, everything else is the same.

[1tuffRC10]

lowridah- If you put a non pull start engine mount on your truck, you will need a non pull start flywheel. The pull start flywheel is larger and will stick out under your truck. Kingtime- Are you running at least 6 inches of fuel line on the pressure side, the side from the exhaust to the tank? AE has a filter in the tank. Never had any real problems without a filter, always ran a short amount of line from tank to the engine without another filter. About that CVD problem, sometimes you can bind the rear wheels by over tightening the wheel nut. I run a spacer on the inside and on the outside of the bearings. Without the spacer on the outside your wheels can rub the bearing carrier under load or landing. Ross- What kind of problems are you having getting your engine broke in?

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
lowridah- If you put a non pull start engine mount on your truck, you will need a non pull start flywheel. The pull start flywheel is larger and will stick out under your truck. Kingtime- Are you running at least 6 inches of fuel line on the pressure side, the side from the exhaust to the tank? AE has a filter in the tank. Never had any real problems without a filter, always ran a short amount of line from tank to the engine without another filter. About that CVD problem, sometimes you can bind the rear wheels by over tightening the wheel nut. I run a spacer on the inside and on the outside of the bearings. Without the spacer on the outside your wheels can rub the bearing carrier under load or landing. Ross- What kind of problems are you having getting your engine broke in?
1tffRC10 so you are saying that I don't need that extra filter? I sent alot of money on the motor I just want to be safe. So that is why I went and got that filter. But if there is one in the tank then I guess I can set me line up the way I had it in the first place. Little line going from the tank to the carb. On the CVD problem you said something about over tightening the wheel, well that to may be my problem:D

Thanks
D.King

[1tuffRC10]

King, I'm not saying that an extra filter isn't good. Some people run one just for the extra fuel. Not sure what they are talking about with running a short line from the tank to the carb. I've been upside down a lot and my truck doesn't even sputter. I run at least 8 inches of pressure line and try to keep it higher than the tank.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
King, I'm not saying that an extra filter isn't good. Some people run one just for the extra fuel. Not sure what they are talking about with running a short line from the tank to the carb. I've been upside down a lot and my truck doesn't even sputter. I run at least 8 inches of pressure line and try to keep it higher than the tank.
I will have 8 inches or more of pressure line, my question was is this to much gas line. the short line I was referring to between the tank and the carb. the images should explain it better. thanks for the feed back 1tuffRC10:D

[slow one 2]

kingitme69; if you loosen up your fuel nipple on the engine, turn it around facing back, you can then run your line and filter around the head (drivers side of truck) back to the nipple on the engine.


low_ridah10: don't get the blue screw set, they look pretty but break and strip out way to easy like atm said.

[The King]

Originally posted by slow one 2
kingitme69; if you loosen up your fuel nipple on the engine, turn it around facing back, you can then run your line and filter around the head (drivers side of truck) back to the nipple on the engine.


low_ridah10: don't get the blue screw set, they look pretty but break and strip out way to easy like atm said.

slow one thans for the great ideal. i will have to give that one a try.
low_ridah10. i got the stainless steal screw set for the GT. they dont strip as easy as the aluminum ones do.:D

[dog8spam]

did you notice i have a filter. There is no room to turn it around and run the filter from the tank to the carb. i did have it that way when i didn't have a filter but now i have to filter so that was the rout i had to go. Now my question is, is there a better place to run this with less hose?

I have my air filter zip tied to the head near the top so it doesn't mess with the air filter.

I've flipped alot and had plenty of time to get it back with even my line being so short. Just a few weeks ago my car started to die for no reason at random times when I hit the brakes. I have a new clutch on order now. Yesterday it started to have problems flipping over. I'm worried If I add alot more line I will not having enough pressure to get the maximum flow of fuel during normal operation. Is there anything else that could be causing my car to die?

[bubbastump]

WHY do yall want short tubing from tank to carb????
i guess yall dont race
try to refrain from mounting fuelfilter to head it heats up fuel
u want cooler fuel to help cool engine
MILEAGE is a factor
how many laps to a tank of gas??
u can run 5 laps with short tube i can win i get 7 laps with a couple inches of tube

[The King]

Originally posted by bubbastump
WHY do yall want short tubing from tank to carb????
i guess yall dont race
try to refrain from mounting fuelfilter to head it heats up fuel
u want cooler fuel to help cool engine
MILEAGE is a factor
how many laps to a tank of gas??
u can run 5 laps with short tube i can win i get 7 laps with a couple inches of tube

So Mr.Bubbastump you hit the nail right on the head. I do not race. Take a look up a few post and see how I have my filter mounted. Is that to much line?:(

[slow one 2]

I agree with bubbastump,,, the long fuel line is not going to cause any problems such as stalling but you will get more fuel=longer run time.

Has anyone seen or run the "Crazynut" heads?? I need a bigger head for my kids os cv12 and they claim this head will lower the temps 50-100 degrees. Maybe then I can get mor than 1-2 gallons out of an os engine. did I mention I hate os engines.

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by kingitme69
So Mr.Bubbastump you hit the nail right on the head. I do not race. Take a look up a few post and see how I have my filter mounted. Is that to much line?:(

Not at all




Want proof?

Take a short tube (1-2 inchs) start your truck, and put it on its lid..and see how long it stays running at idle..

then take a length of 6-8 inchs and do the same thing..

The extra length will increase your chances of runnign while on your lid..

here is what I recommend:

Length to the carb 6-8 inches
Length to the pipe 10-14 inches looped around..and have it about 3/4 of a inch inside the pipe.

[bubbastump]

thank you flea.
the crazy nut heads r nice i want one myself but no $$ to buy
knight the line with the filter is ok especailly since you r just bashin that way when u go turtle u wont stall
go back a few pages and u can see all the tubing i run

[NoPulse]

What Wt. of shock oil is mainly used on Bumpy tracks. I assume 30 Wt. is the standard. Does anybody actually change wt.s' of oils?

[1tuffRC10]

dog8spam: Check and make sure your body is not crushing down and closing off one line or the other. If you can hold your truck upside down and off of the ground and it still run, you may want to check on this. As for the amount of fuel line, from the exhaust AE recommends 6 to 8 inches or near that. I have heard that this amount is to lessen the "pulse" of the exhaust. It is also supposed to help the truck run upside down for some reason. Not sure why but I think I have been told this by a very good racer and lhs owner. As for the length going to the carb, wouldn't a longer line reduce the pressure at the carb from the expansion of the fuel line under pressure. Think I heard that somewhere also. I understand about the fuel milage with the longer feed line but what I am doing works and it will be hard for me to change. My truck runs long enough for the slowest turn marshall to get to before it quits!

[1tuffRC10]

A couple of pages back there is a link to some very helpful set up tips. They will help you determine what oil and spring to use on your track.

[The King]

I am thinking that this is the best place for my gas filter. Like I said before I just bash around the street. Would this type of set up treat me well on the track?

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by kingitme69
I am thinking that this is the best place for my gas filter. Like I said before I just bash around the street. Would this type of set up treat me well on the track?

Yes it would, but since you are running a stinger, ya can cut down on the pressure tubing(pipe to the tank), If its 2 loops, make it only 1, if its 1 loop, make it about 1/2 the size you have it now, and your good to go.

[The King]

Originally posted by FleaUDP
Yes it would, but since you are running a stinger, ya can cut down on the pressure tubing(pipe to the tank), If its 2 loops, make it only 1, if its 1 loop, make it about 1/2 the size you have it now, and your good to go.


Sounds good. To all you guys here that helped me out with all my gt questionsTHANKS. I will have more. I am thinking about changing the flywheel next. I hear lighter will a quicker gt. I am looking for my gt to come out of corners with plenty of speed.:D

[1tuffRC10]

Well just got back from finishing my truck and trying it out in the street. Would have been nice if I had recharged my batts! Oh well, it is running great, seemed to handle the bumps good and stayed straight when I was hard on the power. It will go all to pieces at the track. LOL First time out with the stock diff gear. We'll see if it is more controlable than a metal one. BTW Nice looking truck King! Also we worked on a new track today. Should be ready to race soon. We will have a tri-oval, dirt, with a off road track in the middle that will use the tri-oval as well. Oval one weekend off road the next. I can't wait! I'll let you know our web addy when we get everything going.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Well just got back from finishing my truck and trying it out in the street. Would have been nice if I had recharged my batts! Oh well, it is running great, seemed to handle the bumps good and stayed straight when I was hard on the power. It will go all to pieces at the track. LOL First time out with the stock diff gear. We'll see if it is more controlable than a metal one. BTW Nice looking truck King! Also we worked on a new track today. Should be ready to race soon. We will have a tri-oval, dirt, with a off road track in the middle that will use the tri-oval as well. Oval one weekend off road the next. I can't wait! I'll let you know our web addy when we get everything going.

Thanks, 1tuffRC10:D I dont know if you seen it with the body on or not. There is still so much I (need) want to do to it yet. The wife is saying I am spending more money then the thing is worth. Little does she know. I could be spending my money at the bar or strip club right? :p

[1tuffRC10]

No I didn't see your body yet. And yes there is worse places to spend your money. LOL If you get to SC sometime you will have to bring that GT with you. There is lots of places for the other halfs to go and spend their (or your) money here while you race!:D

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
No I didn't see your body yet. And yes there is worse places to spend your money. LOL If you get to SC sometime you will have to bring that GT with you. There is lots of places for the other halfs to go and spend their (or your) money here while you race!:D

1tuffRC10 here is a picture on my GT. I would like to think it is the best looking one here in GreenBay:D Note: This was the first body I painted:cool: I would love to come to SC at least I would get out of the cold;) I got the wife to understand.

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Guys/Gals take a look in the buy/sell forum for some great hop ups for the GT I am selling. I am parting out a fully hopped up GT!!! THanks

[The King]

Originally posted by one_mean_rc10gt
Guys/Gals take a look in the buy/sell forum for some great hop ups for the GT I am selling. I am parting out a fully hopped up GT!!! THanks

Give me a link to see what you have:cool:

[trxstr1961]

well, after scrounging up all the parts i could find, here what my gt project has:

REAR:
engine mout
spur gear side arm,mount and shock
FRONT:
complete front end
1 nose brace tube

Needing:

tank
tranny, brake
left side rear arm mount
dogbones,axels
front bumper
throttle servo mount
receiver/antenna mount
rear bulkhead,shock tower
rear body mounts. thats all i think :D

so far so good

[one_mean_rc10gt]

I have most of the stuff you need!! Email me and we can make a deal.

[trxstr1961]

Well, found ta rear bulkhead and shock tower, along with the rear arms, so thats taken care of. but i need everything else still :) its getting there though :D

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Here's a link to my for sale items http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=853367#post853367

[trxstr1961]

YGM dude!:D

[Polk]

one_mean_rc10gt i have been sendng emails to you for the last week, why wont you reply :confused:

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Polk, Whats your email addy? I have replied to everyone's email or pms so far. Or send a PM here!!

[Polk]

check your PM one_mean_rc10gt

[bubbastump]

hey flea i gots something 4 you a nice almost blue chasis .
its all yours a gift to http://www.mdrcracing.com
por prototype and demo car . i just hope i dont have to buy a new
one for big races.if i do oh well as long as u get a nice shiny car for show.

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by bubbastump
hey flea i gots something 4 you a nice almost blue chasis .
its all yours a gift to http://www.mdrcracing.com
por prototype and demo car . i just hope i dont have to buy a new
one for big races.if i do oh well as long as u get a nice shiny car for show.
Woohoo!!!!

I can always use donations :)

[bubbastump]

ok flea here it is if u ned a gear box let me know i think i have some mounts layin around

[ross]

Hi guys, hope you can help me out here.....

Ive seen a receiver box made for the RC10GT by Trinity, and it looks really good, but I cant remember where Ive seen it, I think it was in this thread but this thread is so BIG now that it would take me forever to look for it. I just wondered if anyone had a part number or link for this receiver box. BTW, it had a switch mount on the side of the box.


Thanks alot

Ross.

[atm92484_3]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBKF1&P=7

I believe this is the one people are using.

[1tuffRC10]

I think that is the one that I got but I thought they said "for RC10GT" on the pack. Had it for over a year and like it alot. As for my race today, TQ'd by two laps but lost a pin out of a CVD. Haven't done that in some time so I never cut a notch in my pins but I will now. Now for the bad part, someone stopped me and told me that I was going too fast. Even gave me a piece of paper to remind me. Told me how to get to the court house and charged me $69. Still got home in time to watch the football game. Go Raiders!

[T-maxxer1013]

Hello, i was just wondering what the best engine would be for my RC10GT. I want one that will drop right in. Thanks alot.

[bubbastump]

the best motor for him right now its the OS Cv-R from tower
its 92 bux, 1.1hp shaft is already cut
but its for non-pullstrts

[NoPulse]

Looks like my team is going all the way! The Titans will be easy to beat!

Any way, I know RPM sells a Receiver box too for $9.50 I was thinking of buying that one. Or is Trinty a better box?

Today I had a hard time starting my AE .15 Engine. I just broke it in last week, and done a quick overhaul of the head. Now today I decide to run it, and it didnt start. I tried new plugs, charged the igniter, and checked the carb settings. I then checked the head again, and the screws were not really tight, and i tiny bit of fuel was showing near the bottom. I tightend them tighter, and it started right away!
Has this happened to you guys?

[bubbastump]

i had that happen once then i started using nyloka special gasketsealer

[trxstr1961]

yo flea, all i run is short line on my gt AND my nds, never had a prob with them dying after flipping over! my nds is running the stock mufler and the gt is running the stock pipe with a traxas header, never have i once had a stallout after tunning them right! :D

But if thats what u have the best performance with, go for it!
fuel: 15%
engine:os 12 cvx-s
fun factor: over my head, i get at LEAST 20 min of run time on my nds, and around 10 with the gt. :D never knew dirt hawgs hooked up so well in grass either! wheelies galore, but now im turning it into a street truck. will post pics soon of it :)

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
yo flea, all i run is short line on my gt AND my nds, never had a prob with them dying after flipping over! my nds is running the stock mufler and the gt is running the stock pipe with a traxas header, never have i once had a stallout after tunning them right! :D

But if thats what u have the best performance with, go for it!
fuel: 15%
engine:os 12 cvx-s
fun factor: over my head, i get at LEAST 20 min of run time on my nds, and around 10 with the gt. :D never knew dirt hawgs hooked up so well in grass either! wheelies galore, but now im turning it into a street truck. will post pics soon of it :)

Thats great that its working for you..

And I'm not saying my setup is the best setup, whatever works best in your sisuation is the best setup for you.

The setup I gave is about what 80% of the racer use. Including the Factory Drivers.

With you running 15%, you should be getting a little more run time with the GT. ya should be getting around 15-18 mins..

What temp do ya have the motor running at? the os cv series(cv, cv-x) should run around 240-260. and I thought 220 was running not in that motor, but from what Os said, its peak proformance temp is 245.
and thats with an aftermarket head( I run the cv-r) head on mine.

[ross]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I think that is the one that I got but I thought they said "for RC10GT" on the pack. Had it for over a year and like it alot. As for my race today, TQ'd by two laps but lost a pin out of a CVD. Haven't done that in some time so I never cut a notch in my pins but I will now. Now for the bad part, someone stopped me and told me that I was going too fast. Even gave me a piece of paper to remind me. Told me how to get to the court house and charged me $69. Still got home in time to watch the football game. Go Raiders!


Thanks for the reply atm and 1tuffRC10.

1tuffRC10,

I also thought that it had RC10GT on the pack, is there another one available or is is the one that atm linked to the right one? Did your chassis need any drilling or mods to fit the one you have? Ive seen the RPM one but I like the Trinity one more because there is a switch holder on the side.


Thanks for the help


Ross.

[The King]

Originally posted by NoPulse
Looks like my team is going all the way! The Titans will be easy to beat!

Any way, I know RPM sells a Receiver box too for $9.50 I was thinking of buying that one. Or is Trinty a better box?

Today I had a hard time starting my AE .15 Engine. I just broke it in last week, and done a quick overhaul of the head. Now today I decide to run it, and it didnt start. I tried new plugs, charged the igniter, and checked the carb settings. I then checked the head again, and the screws were not really tight, and i tiny bit of fuel was showing near the bottom. I tightend them tighter, and it started right away!
Has this happened to you guys?

Yeah Baby to the Raiders, I was a Raider all the way back to the Bo Jackson days. Put some lock tight on the screws this way the will have a harder time on backing out on you:D

[The King]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
yo flea, all i run is short line on my gt AND my nds, never had a prob with them dying after flipping over! my nds is running the stock mufler and the gt is running the stock pipe with a traxas header, never have i once had a stallout after tunning them right! :D

But if thats what u have the best performance with, go for it!
fuel: 15%
engine:os 12 cvx-s
fun factor: over my head, i get at LEAST 20 min of run time on my nds, and around 10 with the gt. :D never knew dirt hawgs hooked up so well in grass either! wheelies galore, but now im turning it into a street truck. will post pics soon of it :)

I am looking foward to seeing some picture of the street truck;)

[slaf]

Hi all

I have a stock factory RC10GT and I'd like to go on-road with my truck. I already have Proline Road hawk tires.... What's the next step ? :)

I'm thinking about Associated RED (stiffest) springs, lowering the suspension.

Can you suggest me a setup ?

[1tuffRC10]

The on I got needed no mods at all. To the chassis or box. The small plastic piece that comes with it bolts to the bottom of the box. Then the assembly bolts to the chassis. I think the screws they sent were too long. They will need to be cut off. That little piece that fits around where the wires come out will not stay unless you glue it or something. I think mine fell out on the second tank. I haven't sealed the hole up where the wires come out, I just clean out the box every now and then. I have a Futaba reciever, a small one, not sure of the numbers on it, but it is a tight fit. My crystal will not jump out! BTW If you use any padding in the bottom, you may want to use something that doesn't absorb moisture. Mine also has an antenna mount on it but you will have to cut a different hole in the body for it.

[1tuffRC10]

BTW GO RAIDERS!

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
BTW GO RAIDERS!

I am with you on that one "Tuff" I have been a Raiders fan since the Bo Jackson days. :D

[1tuffRC10]

You should have seen everyone at the track yesterday, they couldn't believe the power, speed and handling of my truck. I hate to "toot my own horn" but wow. Pull the trigger all the way back and point it. I'll never have a metal diff gear on the track again unless it's all I got! I've not been that big a fan of football but the old Raiders teams, in the 70's, were tough period. With fines and penalties today, everyone is scared to hit, it seems like. I've just always pulled for them since then, and it sure is nice when they get in the playoffs! This may be their year, I hope so.

[The King]

I love the Raiders because they have all the old dogs:D What kind of set up do you have. List everything, Because I too want to kick some butt. Then I can say "Bow to the KING" lol;)

[TallMouse]

hey i just got the gt/ntc3 fuel tank and it came with a insert thing do i need to put it in are is just something else

[bubbastump]

i never used a gt onroad but im guessing u may want to put a heavy oil in shocks im sure someone will prove me wrong it just a guess


DROP THAT THING DOWN AND LET HER RIP

[rocknbil]

Agree w. bubba stuffer suspension all around, including oil, and you'll probably need to loosen up the slipper more than on dirt.

I'd dump the road hawks though. Dirt Hawgs are great for rear, with Losi rails up front, no inserts, all four glued on solid. The Dirt Hawgs will bite a lot better and give you a lot more rear traction in corners on asphalt.

You can also drop your ride height a little, and stay clear of the driveway lips and gravel, they'll scratch up your chassis pretty good . . . .

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by TallMouse
hey i just got the gt/ntc3 fuel tank and it came with a insert thing do i need to put it in are is just something else

You can put it in if you want, but its just meant to bring the tank down to the legal limit of 75cc.

[gometro333]

I guess this isn't the best place to be asking this seeing as how it will be so biased but whatever. I have asked this question on a few other forums and have yet to get a response but here it goes. Is the RC10 GT really everything it is hyped up to be? As in is it as good as it sounds? I only here good things about them I I'm in the market for a new car so I thought I would check them out. The other thing that draws me towards them is the huge popularity in them. The track that I plan on racing at this spring/summer/fall only has a few 4WD trucks, my current car, so I thought it would be more a even field if I raced with the correct class. I also had a question about the engine people use. Do more people use pull-start or non pull-start. I currently have both kinds of engines (my non pull-start being the favored one because of it's ease of use) and I just wanted to see if either made a major difference. Thanks for listening.

-Matt

[rccrazy02]

hey dudes i just got a megetech .16 for my gt dude and it flies. i also got a blue andonized exhaust manifold and am looking to sell my gt. also what would u guys buy? rpm racing rear bulkhead for gt or alluminum (for racing) anyways um my gt is all stock exsept for my motor and my manifold. offer me a price or ill straight trade for a rtr t maxx. if its an older t maxx it betta have hop ups on it but if its the new 2.5 straight trade ttyl1:)

[earnhardtjr]

Well I have not raced the GT as long as some of the fellows on here but I can give you my $0.02 worth. I changed last year from a Nitro Rustler to a GT. I changed for two main reasons. One was that my LHS where I race has an inventory that is 90% GT. So with the Rustler I was looking at having two trucks, one to rae and one in parts for crashes. I also noticed that last year I ran my Rustler there was a huge weight difference in my truck and another guy GT.

So based upon those two reason I change last year to a GT. I also got a .12OS-CV-R for my GT. I was pleased with how it ran it just took me a little time to adjust my driving style from how I used to drive my Rustler. With the Rustler I had to drive prety muh on the edge to stay up front, but with the GT I am learning to become a smoother driver.

So overall I am pleased with my GT. But I like you should look at what you LHS sells where you plan to race and go from there.

[OldskoolGT]

gometro333,

Yes, the GT is a fantastic truck. The GT is durable, handles well, and is easy to maintain. I think the GT is the most durable of the competitive stadium trucks, and has the best transmission. As far as handling goes, the GT handles differently than