Associated RC10GT Forum v5.0

[Polk]

Can i use Losi rims and tyres for the GT plus RTR?
Cause my LHS mainly stocks losi stuff, but i wanted a GT cause they, well, own all.
:D

[1tuffRC10]

On the front, lay the wheel down on the side facing out. Put a bearing in and you will notice that it sits deep in the wheel. You will need to cut the extra wheel out. I took a dremel with a barrel shaped stone and ground out the extra. On the rear, it has been a while but I think they fit without mods. Or maybe they had to be opened up a little around the pin. Not real sure about the rears but I have ran the losi wheels before so it isn't alot of trouble. One thing to consider is the losi wheels will make the truck narrower overall. It will be a little less stable IMO esp. in the air.

[1tuffRC10]

BTW A local track is putting on a 5 hour endurance race this May. This sounds like a blast. Four man teams, minimum, same chassis and body. Anything else can be changed. My boss man saw this on a website and called me right then wanting to know if I knew of two more drivers! He runs a losi but said it wouldn't hold up that long LOL.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by bubbastump
trxstr1961 i dont know bout u but my failsafe goes full brake if i turn off radio

geo333 hey matt weather depending im goin to that track on sunday if u r there ill let u check out my gt and take her fer a spin while i tear down drivers stand for materials. matt (fleadup)
and i use the os .12 cv nothing big and fancy some people r using mt 12 but to me they seem to have too much power i hang right in with them .in fact on a big race i had a few loseies lapped down untill i went crazy.ill explain another day.here is my pit table

LOL Bryan,
Remember this truck? It has a MT.12 on it and For the life of me, I can't remember a CV on my tail for long.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

[Polk]

thanks for the info 1tuffRC10, but 1 more question.
For now i can use the stock rims till new ones come in, but what about losi tires? Will they fit alright on the stock rims?

[1tuffRC10]

As long as they are 2.2 diameter tires, they will work. I have losi step pins all the way around my truck now! It works great in deep "loomy" stuff. Some people that run the steps on the front cut the outside and inside row of pins off for a little less side bite.

[Polk]

thanks 1tuffRC10, you da man.

[The King]

I just received my mini fridge for my OS.15. Do you think I will need to monitor my temp with a on-board temp. gage? Or will my mini fridge give me no worries about running hot?

Thanks
D.King:D

[bubbastump]

jammedup

if i remember right i ran e main due to breakin in new p/s for qual runs so i took it super easy
.2 people dropped out so i got bumped to d main i came from last and led a few laps before I DONT WANT TO TALK BOUT IT (gliched)
i was talkin bout george and his loseie oops losi
and here is the car and driver ugly sob huh

[dog8spam]

The weather got very cold here and the car sounds too lean, but when I richen it it dies every time I let off the throttle. The idle is set high and I havn't changed the low end. Can cold weather throw that off or could it be something else (my car has been dieing more often the last couple of weeks).

The Rams will rise again :D

I am well aware of thier record this year so dont even start.

[bubbastump]

hows compression???
when u get a temp drop u need to adjust high and low settings i think if there is nore than 10 deg between the last tiome i drive and next time i go to breakin settings and start over from scratch i havent done the note pad for turns and temp yet

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by bubbastump
jammedup

if i remember right i ran e main due to breakin in new p/s for qual runs so i took it super easy
.2 people dropped out so i got bumped to d main i came from last and led a few laps before I DONT WANT TO TALK BOUT IT (gliched)
i was talkin bout george and his loseie oops losi
and here is the car and driver ugly sob huh

bubbastump,
I feel your pain, the last time I went to the track I had 2 glitches.
Both times was from a radio on in the pits. First time took out my $100 servo gears as soon as I plugged in the RX batteries. The second one ran me into the pipes which caused a broken front A-arm but it was worn at the bottom pin anyway and that's why it broke. Luckily I had one "event free" qualifier which was good enough to place me in the A. I'm thinking of getting to the track this weekend if the weather holds out. Ya wanna run some?

I think you're right about the p/s getting worn on dog8spam's engine. Either that or his plug or fuel is going bad. I've only seen bad fuel once before but it seemed to run rich but the engine stalled continuously. <----- I never could spell that word.

[bubbastump]

ill be there sunday just give me a time to be there

[trxstr1961]

is the AE .15 legal for racing?? im thinking about getting a couple for my gt's that i have. :)


also, has anyone ran there truck on a road track?? curiosity is here now that the snow is flying :)

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by bubbastump
ill be there sunday just give me a time to be there

Oh well, it sounds like we're going to get dumped on again. If we don't then I'll be there. I'll post on Matt's site if or when I'll be there. I'm really starting to hate winter here in Maryland.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
is the AE .15 legal for racing?? im thinking about getting a couple for my gt's that i have. :)


also, has anyone ran there truck on a road track?? curiosity is here now that the snow is flying :)

That depends on the track rules that you race at. Around here they play by the ROAR rules so yes, the .15 engines are illegal here. The price dropped on the OS.12CV-R though. It's not as good as the OS.12TR but still a good engine.

[The King]

Since I have a mini-fridge do I need to have a tempature gage or will my new head keep the OS cool enough where I do not need to worrie about running hot. I know I asked this before but I didn't get a reply.

[1tuffRC10]

I've never ran a fridge head but I think I would be safe and still check the temps. They could let you know of a problem.

[Mystracing]

You still need to monitor the temp of the engine with some method. The liquid cooling of the fuel going through the engine, and more so the reduced friction from proper lubrication is far more effective than air cooling regardless of the head your running. If you run your motor too lean it will burn up no matter what head you have on it because it still needs the lubrication.

If you put a water cooled head the size of a real refrigerator on the motor instead of being able to run real lean with super power, the engine would simply have problems running because of not being able to reach a proper operating temp. And would still wear itself out if leaned out to the point that it didn't have enough lubrication. It's a case of too much of a good thing (cooling) being bad.

I'd recommend the MIP temp guage with the probe around the top of the crank case with that head, because you'll get low readings from the top of the head with the spit test or infra red.

[Polk]

thats one attracitve head!

[1tuffRC10]

I wish my truck was that clean!:D

[dog8spam]

where did you get that head?

[Mystracing]

My FT is that clean, of course it won't be once racing starts in march.:D

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I wish my truck was that clean!:D

Thanks for the info guys, I am running on road most of the time. When I get done I make sure I clean everything that needs cleaning.:D Looks like I will be ordering a MIP temp. gage.

[The King]

Originally posted by dog8spam
where did you get that head?

I will try to find the link for you:D

[The King]

Originally posted by dog8spam
where did you get that head?

MSJ precision products:D http://www.msjproducts.com/pages/565163/index.htm

[Bigstick]

Is it possible for my rtr GT plus to pull wheelies. I love my truck...but I only wish I could wheelie. I have the stock .15 thunder tiger. I'm thinking if I change the clutch bell from the 15t to a 14t I might be able to pull this off (however I was told that if I change my clutch bell I will lose sooo much top end that it wouldn't be worth it) Will I really lose that much top end? Or what if I add the MIP 4-1 clutch...will that help. Any suggestions?

[RC10's]

The problem isnt neccesarily the gearing its the engine...your engine is only like .7HP (i think). I have an OS .15CV-RX and it cant wheelie with stock gearing. You could make the stock.15 wheelie but you would have to gear it so low that you would have hardly any top end. Get a .21 and it will wheelie no problem :)

[Ferocity02]

My RC10GT sport would not wheelie before. It had the stock 16T clutch bell and the stock 66T spur gear. It has an OS .12 CV. I actually reduced the size of the spur gear to a Kimbrough 64T, and now it does wheelies. Whats my secret? Well I just switched to 20% nitro and got a really nice OFNA 3-chamber pipe which adds a lot of punch.

[chachi]

you can make a stock rtr wheelie. first, take out the carb restrictor if you haven't already. tune it. then tighten up the slipper clutch all the way. you should then be able to pull wheelies, no problem.

[Ferocity02]

Oh and yes, the MIP 4-N-1 clutch will help with your wheelie dreams somewhat. To do wheelies I added a Kimbrough 64T spur gear, MIP 4-N-1 clutch, FULL ball bearings, and MIP 1/4" CVD's. Plus I'm using 20% nitro. It's amazing that this little .12 will actually do wheelies... :D

[bubbastump]

look on rear move the spacers from front to back of wheel shortning wheel base i hace os12cv it allways did wheelies untill i moved spacers ill show where after i find a pic to show

[trxstr1961]

Read THIS, it should help ur deceision with picking out a gt:


If I were you I'd just get the Team kit to begin with. Its available with a 12 CV which is better than the AE/TTR 15. Don't get me wrong the AE/TTR 15 is good but I'd take a 12 CV over it. Plus with an aftermarket head its cooling will be dramatically improved.

Now for the truck. The RTR comes with a difference chassis than the Factory Team and Team. The shape is slightly difference and the material is a lower grade. Also with the RTR the tires aren't really track ready. The Team and FT both include Proline Bowties (rear) and Edges (front) on Associated rims. The blue RTR shocks are nice but the annodizing gets worn off a little from off-roading (atleast my friend's did). The RTR's shock towers are molded plastic over the fiberglass (Team) and graphite (FT) of the better trucks.

Your best bet is to get either of these (FT or Team) and build them so you know how the truck goes together. Also the Team's steel turnbuckles are plenty strong enough. I've yet to bend one and as long as you don't do stuff like jumping houses, they'll be good. Personally I'd go with the Team. Its a good base to begin with and you can hop it up later to Factory Team trim if you want.

If you truely don't want to build take a look at the Team Build. They are essentially Team trucks expect they don't have CVDs and they have the blue shocks. They also include a painted body and Proline Dish rims. All you have to do is install the engine and radio.:cool:

[The King]

Originally posted by Bigstick
Is it possible for my rtr GT plus to pull wheelies. I love my truck...but I only wish I could wheelie. I have the stock .15 thunder tiger. I'm thinking if I change the clutch bell from the 15t to a 14t I might be able to pull this off (however I was told that if I change my clutch bell I will lose sooo much top end that it wouldn't be worth it) Will I really lose that much top end? Or what if I add the MIP 4-1 clutch...will that help. Any suggestions?

I have the OS.15 CV-RX with a 14t clutch gear and a 66t spur gear. I run the Stinger rear tune exhaust. The mini-fridge head and the MIP 4-1 clutch. You will loose top-end but you will gain bottom end. Bottom end was what I was looking for. I race on a road course with alot of turns. Now on to the wheelie part. I to was wanting to ride some wheelies so I tighten my slipper clutch and thought that would be the trick. With the gear set up that I am running it gives me so much bottom end that when I pound on the gas the rear tires spin. That is my $.02 worth:D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Bigstick
Is it possible for my rtr GT plus to pull wheelies....

Wheelies are overrated - if you're doing wheelies you're putting too much stress on the drive train, which can result in stripped spur gears and prematurely worn tires, and worst of all you can't steer! :D

Nonetheless, you should be able to do wheelies with almost any engine. The mechanical devices in place to help provide traction are what are preventing the wheelies:

1 . If you cut down the stock clutch shoes, this makes them engage and lock sooner, not as much slip
2. Lock down the slipper clutch all the way.
3. A correctly adjusted front and rear suspension helps absorb some of the torque of a nailed throttle from dead stop: i.e., if the suspension's soft it will "squat" a little - the rear end will drop when you hit the gas. Heavy springs and oil will resist this action, diverting all the torque the the chassis and up goes the front end . . .
4. Tires. Get a tire that will grip good and hard with minimal spinning - for asphalt or other road surfaces I use Dirt Hawgs, they are squishy-soft, get a lot of bite, and will last quite a while on-road.

Furthermore you will not lose"so much" top end by going down one clutchbell tooth . . .

Keep in mind when you do the above you are going to see a great loss in performance in other areas - such as, it's going to spin out every time you hit the gas a little aggressively.

[1tuffRC10]

If you want to do wheelies, buy a tyco! If you want a truck to race and fly around turns and over jumps, get a GT.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
If you want to do wheelies, buy a tyco! If you want a truck to race and fly around turns and over jumps, get a GT.

Well said guys, Wheelies are a cool thing to do when back yard bashing and trying to impress your friends. But when you get out on the track look out. We say do all the wheelies you want while we are passing you up. LOL:D

[The King]

For all you racers out there, Is is illegal to have your side windows cut out? Plus what about the windshield? I have half cut out. Will I be good to go if I have the side windows and half of the windshield cut out?

:confused:

[dog8spam]

You should be fine if you have half of the front window left. I wouldn't worry about the sides, you could always use duct tape to make it legal.

I use curbs or spin it around then hit the throttle to do wheelies and it doesn't take derastic gearings or a .21

[TallMouse]

hey would this engine fit on a rc10gt and if so would it be a good engine to buy

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAK2&P=7

[TallMouse]

and also does this tuning guide work for the OS .12 cr-x engine even though its taking about the .15 ae engine

http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/engine/AE15_engman.pdf

[TallMouse]

you now what i thinks funny is that i have a .12 os cr-x engine and it will do weelies on the grass but not on street i think it should be the other way around.

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
you now what i thinks funny is that i have a .12 os cr-x engine and it will do weelies on the grass but not on street i think it should be the other way around.

Well that problem is because you are getting more grip in the grass compared to the street.:D

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I wish my truck was that clean!:D

Hey Tuff,
Just to prove to you that my GT is not always that clean. :D

[TallMouse]

Originally posted by The King
Well that problem is because you are getting more grip in the grass compared to the street.:D
i just can't picture wet grass having more traction that a street

[TallMouse]

hey do you like the pipe going out the back and if so where can i get something so i can use my old pipe and just a new manifold so it will go out that back like yours

[1tuffRC10]

I think that grass under the fronts helps to push the front end up. My truck does wheelie in the grass after the slipper engages. BTW Grass is tough on your engines. It takes more torque to push your truck through the grass.

[TallMouse]

but i don't have any tracks close by and i have a pool in the backyard and im tired of buying new tires every week so i don't have much other than my front yard grass and street

but i is fun to chaseing down the neighborhood's cat

[TallMouse]

hey im having trouble making my truck stay in one spot because it just drives away slowly and i was wondering should i have the brake on are should it just idle with no brake on

[trxstr1961]

Heres a couple pics of my "project gt" as u can c, im needing a few items to finish it.

http://www.fdc.arizona.edu/drennen/stampede/temp/mike01.jpg


http://www.fdc.arizona.edu/drennen/stampede/temp/mike02.jpg :cool:

[1tuffRC10]

Check your clutch and bearings. If it is not idleing too high, then you have a problem in the clutch. The stock clutch will drag a bit that's why I run the MIP clutch. Check your clutch and let us know.

[TallMouse]

in what way you mean check it for what?

and also should the brake be completly off when idle

[bubbastump]

CLUTCH= TAKE OFF CLUTCH BELL GET AN EXACTO AND CUT THE END OFF cut at the hole furthest from hole for pin that should fix moving at idle.

u want brake barely rubbing during idle so at the lightese touch of gas its free


hope that helps

[bubbastump]

dont cut clutch bell cut shoes the funny lil white things

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
i just can't picture wet grass having more traction that a street

I most have missed that part that he said the grass was wet:rolleyes:

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
hey do you like the pipe going out the back and if so where can i get something so i can use my old pipe and just a new manifold so it will go out that back like yours

So far so good. I have had no problems with this type of pipe. It is a stringer exhaust that is ment to go out the back. I don't know where you would get something to modify your pipe:(

[clw]

What's the purpose of the carb restrictor? Should it be removed after breakin?

Seems silly to detune a sport truck, doesn't it!

[The King]

I have the stock ae fly wheel on my OS. Would changing it out to the MIP light weight fly wheel do me any good?

[geo8498]

I removed the carb restricter from mine a few weeks ago, against the advice of my LHS guy. He said that if you remove the restricter, the engine will require more frequent tuning. However, the up-side is a considerable increase in power. So far, I haven't had any problems with keeping the engine tuned. The truck really moves without it.

Can ayone tell me, what would be the single-most cost-effective improvement I can make to my GT Plus. Aside from the tires, which I have numerous differernt combos. I have the stock 15 engine. I did put in a MIP 4in1 clutch. Bought some aluminum shock towers.

I'm thinking either playing with clutch/gear ratios, or a new tuned pipe.

If I went with the tuned pipe, I'm not sure whether I'd want to go with the RPM tuned or Torque tuned. Don't know which would be more fun, hi end or low end increase.

Anyone have any other suggestions ?

[1tuffRC10]

clw; the carb restrictor will help newbes get used to the power of a GT. If you feel like you can use the extra power, take it out! You may need to retune your carb a bit if you do. King, I run the stock and the heavy (steel) flywheels. The stock is aluminum and is fairly light, if it's a non pull start. A lighter flywheel will "spool up" a little quicker. I prefer the heavy with big hp engines to keep the power from comming on as quick. With a big engine and light flywheel, these things are rockets but brake traction too quick in the dirt. Also keep in mind that the weight of the flywheel also helps keep the engine running at idle. A heavy flywheel will idle a little slower than a light one.

[trxstr1961]

How do i put the clutch and flywheel on the AE 15??

pic of mill
http://www.fdc.arizona.edu/drennen/stampede/temp/mike01.jpg

[1tuffRC10]

geo, not sure what you are going to do with your truck but I think the first thing to do would be upgrade your servos, at least a metal gear steering servo. The aluminum towers are nice but keep in mind you are putting more stress on parts that weren't designed for it. I do run a aluminum rear tower but I also run the RPM bulkhead with it. The stock ones would break when you landed on the tail of the truck. trxstr, that looks like a pilot shaft engine. Good luck, AE doesn't make a clutch nut for it. On a previous page of this thread, someone has put a pilot shaft in a GT, with instructions on how they did it.

[dog8spam]

page 91

[Polk]

Do i need this stuff?
Im looking to buy it cheap (about $40USD)

Front And Rear RPM A-Arms with Hinge Pins(Used 2 to 3 times)
RPM Rear A-Arm 3deg Mounts
New FT Rear A-Arm 3deg Mounts,
Front C Hubs and Axles
RPM Rear Bulkhead
Stock Front Bulk Head
Front and Rear RPM Body Mounts
FT Carbon Fiber Front Shock Tower
(2) Steering Turnbuckles and
(4) Caster Turnbuckles with RPM Heavy Duty Ball Cups
RPM Front Bumper (Used)
Stock Antenna/Receiver Mount $40.00 Shipped (1 Free Glow Warmer and GT Manual)

Will it work on the RTR Plus?

Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Yep all of that will work. Dunno if you need it, but it can't hurt to have extra parts.

TRX, you put it on just like you would for a standard crank engine, but you'll need the special nut from AE for that pilotshaft.

[1tuffRC10]

Do you have that part no? I have bought all 3 clutch nuts that they list for a GT and none of them will fit a pilot shaft.

[atm92484_3]

The RTR is the only GT that includes that nut. I believe its also the same as the cut off nut which is part number 7620 (I wasn't able to find any other part that might work).

[The King]

Originally posted by Polk
Do i need this stuff?
Im looking to buy it cheap (about $40USD)

Front And Rear RPM A-Arms with Hinge Pins(Used 2 to 3 times)
RPM Rear A-Arm 3deg Mounts
New FT Rear A-Arm 3deg Mounts,
Front C Hubs and Axles
RPM Rear Bulkhead
Stock Front Bulk Head
Front and Rear RPM Body Mounts
FT Carbon Fiber Front Shock Tower
(2) Steering Turnbuckles and
(4) Caster Turnbuckles with RPM Heavy Duty Ball Cups
RPM Front Bumper (Used)
Stock Antenna/Receiver Mount $40.00 Shipped (1 Free Glow Warmer and GT Manual)

Will it work on the RTR Plus?

Thanks

It should be no problem.:D

[1tuffRC10]

Well I give up! LOL I never had a AE 15 engine.:(

[ross]

The AE .15 engine is the only pilot shaft engine you can use in a GT because it has a imperial crankshaft. Crankshafts on OS, Novarossi's etc use metric crankshafts which means that they dont work.


Ross.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Well I give up! LOL I never had a AE 15 engine.:(
Hey Tuff
I have your problems solved. My RTR came with the AE .15:D I never ran it because I bought the OS.15. I also switched the manifold and exhaust. If you are interested let me know.:cool:

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Here's a link!!!

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=864759#post864759

[1tuffRC10]

Thanks King but I got a OS pilot crank that I was wanting to use. In my haste to get it mounted I cut the end of the crank off. Dooohp Like Ross said they have different threads. I may try to rig up a nut off of a 1/8 scale some day. I found one but we need it for the Mugen. As anyone noticed that the OS TR-T is only available in something that looks like a pilot shaft engine? And what about a CV-R for 90 bucks. The carb alone is $50.

[The King]

I am going to trade my AE .15 motor and exhaust to my LHS for a brand new MIP temp. gage. Is this a good trade or what?:confused:

[one_mean_rc10gt]

I have a new one(1 run on it) for sale!! It's a green venom temp gauge for $25.00 shipped.

[The King]

Originally posted by one_mean_rc10gt
I have a new one(1 run on it) for sale!! It's a green venom temp gauge for $25.00 shipped.

Thanks but no thanks. I don't have to spend any money to get one. All I have to do is trade the stock motor and BAM I have a brand new MIP temp gage still in the package. Good luck on trying to sell your stuff:D

[TallMouse]

*** the point of a temp gage just touch the engine if it hurts its hot

[atm92484_3]

To tell exactly how hot the engine is....afterall your finger doesn't have a little gauge that says 250 degrees...:p

Plus, I don't know about you, but I'm not a huge fan of grabbing heatsinks, especially when the engine turns out being too lean.

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
*** the point of a temp gage just touch the engine if it hurts its hot

Man that is a great ideal:rolleyes:

[1tuffRC10]

80 bucks for a temp gun or burned fingers? What a choice! Race day yee haa. Think I'll just use my temp gun. No one has said any thing about this 5 hour race yet.

[Polk]

What tires would be best for running on a hard grass surface?

[The King]

Originally posted by Polk
What tires would be best for running on a hard grass surface?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU11&P=0

These tires are a good all around yard bashing tire

[atm92484_3]

Check out the Dirt Paw tires. The huge lugs on the tires help them grip really well on grass.

[ross]

Originally posted by Polk
What tires would be best for running on a hard grass surface?

Team Losi Step Pins.

[The King]

Originally posted by Polk
What tires would be best for running on a hard grass surface? As you can tell everybody is going to have their own opinion on what the best tire for running on grass is. My advice is look out there and see what looks good or take Tuffs word as good as gold:D

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
80 bucks for a temp gun or burned fingers? What a choice! Race day yee haa. Think I'll just use my temp gun. No one has said any thing about this 5 hour race yet.

$80.00 for a temp gun is a little to much for me when I can trade my stock ae motor for a MIP temp gage:D

[atm92484_3]

It actually depends on the grass. Overseas, grass offroad tracks aren't uncommon (almost like a fairway on a golf course), but in the U.S., when people say "grass tire", its always for bashing rather than racing. I assume your racing Polk, so take Ross's advice; any small pin tire should work well.

[ross]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
It actually depends on the grass. Overseas, grass offroad tracks aren't uncommon (almost like a fairway on a golf course), but in the U.S., when people say "grass tire", its always for bashing rather than racing. I assume your racing Polk, so take Ross's advice; any small pin tire should work well.

Atm, your right, 90% of the tracks we race on are grass tracks. There arent any tracks that I know of over here that are clay like the ones across the pond, however there is a multi surface track which has a little bit of clay in it.

BTW, If any of you guys from the states want to look at the racing in the UK then take a look here: www.nitrotrucks.com


Ross.

[atm92484_3]

Man you guys have it easy...I can imagine clean-up would be mostly cleaning a little grass and oil off of the car rather than all the dust and dirt.

[trxstr1961]

well, found the othere rear arm, thats 1 more peice i dont have to replace :)

[1tuffRC10]

That sounds like a good trade. I've never ran that kind of high tech equipment. LOL Did run a personal transponder today, so guess what's on my wish list.:D

[1tuffRC10]

If you put on a set of red losi step pins on the rear of your truck, and don't have enough traction, something is way too tight. I don't run much on grass other than the yard at my house. The red compound tire from losi is the softest they make. There may be softer and better tires from other companies but sometimes it's what you can get. The softer the tire is the better the traction most of the time, but softer tires wear quicker. You should have a couple sets of tires for the rear anyhow.

[trxstr1961]

hey 1tuff, got anything left?? still looking for parts

[bubbastump]

i feel soooo stupid i rebuilt and cleaned my gt got ready to goto track and i forgot to get a battery for starter box battery dead
DUH IM STUPID
well i gots a temp battery untill i get a charger today good thing tommorow is a holiday

[1tuffRC10]

Most of my parts that are took off aren't worth throwing in the trash! Kind of used all up if you know what I mean. LOL

[TallMouse]

hey whats the point of a temp gauge other than the reason to know whats the temp cause how can that help you at all

and is it worth it if you just drive around you house most of the time

[1tuffRC10]

I got something for Christmas a couple of years ago that really has worked good. You know those booster boxes to crank cars with dead batteries. I charge my reciever pack off of mine and keep a hand held starter hooked to it for those hard to start engines or if someone's box dies. And if you listen to your car radio and kill the battery, well! Also, I've got a light that plugs in the cig lighter part of the jump box so no drop cords.

[TallMouse]

hey asking anybody who owns a stinger exhaust and was wondering does it really make it sound like a real 2 stroke engine and did it make your truck go faster cause a good tuned pipe can make it go faster

[TallMouse]

hey are the mip boost packs worth getting cause i just like to drive it around and was wonder how good is it

http://www.miponline.com/boostbottle.html

[1tuffRC10]

You are talking about as much money between the exhaust and boost chamber to buy a new CV-R. If you need more than one horsepower and 36,000 rpm. Spend another 50 and get a TR. I have both and the biggest difference i can tell is the TR turns a little more rpm. Its rated at 37,000 rpm. The CV-R is more than enough power for playing in the yard or racing the largest tracks.

[TallMouse]

thx for the info and i might just buy the stinger exhaust to keep it my truck a little clean and its also supposed to make it sound more like a real 2 stroke engine

[atm92484_3]

Tuff1, what pipe are you running with your TR?

[Polk]

I will be bashing, not racing for now on a soccer field which has a sand base, meaning i will be running on a hard packed grass area. So i think maybe either the Proline dirt hawg and the dirt paw which also look good.


I got some fuel today, Hotstuff Model Fuel, 15% Nitro, and the guy said it had about 20% oil. This will be alright aye?

If anyone out there is interested in buying me a few RPM parts from there LHS front/rear arms...) then popping them in a normal sized envelope and sending to me so i can save on shipping chuck me a PM. I will pay you back in full, plus a little extra, i want to do it this way cause then i can save on shipping, and get them cheaper, and get them quicker!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ross]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Man you guys have it easy...I can imagine clean-up would be mostly cleaning a little grass and oil off of the car rather than all the dust and dirt.


You really think so? Ill tell ya what, you send me your GT and Ill race it at one of our winter series meetings when its pissing down with rain and the track is like a mud bath, then Ill send it you back for you to clean up. :) :D ;)

When its dry in the summer (although thats not always the case in England) they dont get that dirty, just a bit of dust. But when its winter and it been raining for a couple of weeks, the trucks are extremely dirty!!!

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
hey whats the point of a temp gauge other than the reason to know whats the temp cause how can that help you at all

and is it worth it if you just drive around you house most of the time
the point is that it is very important to tell how hot your motor is. and yes it is worth it if you just drive around the house because you don't want to run to hot or else you will burn you motor up:D

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
hey asking anybody who owns a stinger exhaust and was wondering does it really make it sound like a real 2 stroke engine and did it make your truck go faster cause a good tuned pipe can make it go faster
I have the stinger exhaust and it does sound like a mini 2 stroke. to tell you the truth i do not know if i helped me go any faster because i switched the exhaust and motor right away. i didnt run the stock set up at all so i don't have anything to compare it to:cool:

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by TallMouse
hey asking anybody who owns a stinger exhaust and was wondering does it really make it sound like a real 2 stroke engine and did it make your truck go faster cause a good tuned pipe can make it go faster

I run the 360 Stinger (or parts of it) on as many RCs as I can.
It really lights up all the engines I've ran it on but it's louder then any pipe I've tried. People claim it's a low end pipe but I've experianced an all around preformence difference favoring a much crisper top end.
When conditions require, I'll swap back to the Trinity Pro side pipe which I feel is a killer low RPM pipe at the expense of a softer mid and top end hit.

I have a few pictures up on my neglected site, the link is in my profile.

[clw]

HELP all you experienced RC10GT guys!

1. Front wheel points off to side after crashing!! I know, don't crash. But!! When I pick the truck up the lower shock mount is off the A-arm and the steering linkage (rod) is popped off the ball at the wheel. Which happened first? I think the shock. One of the guys at the track w/ a RC10 GT said to put a washer on the mounting screw to keep the bottom of the shock from popping off. Is that the best solution? And to ditch the stock ball ends/caps and change to a trapped ball end? Advice needed!

2. What's the answer to that flimsy battery box mounted as a bumper for all to hit?

3. Anyone had the inside of the fuel tank lid disassemble?

Thanks

[one_mean_rc10gt]

New Crazy Nut Racing Head for the AE .15 (1 run on it) Sells for $50 new.... I will sell it for $29.00 shipped if you pay with PayPal.

[bubbastump]

i do have a booster battery but its dead and i cant find charger

I HATE COLD WEATHER
i want to go play

[trxstr1961]

Well, since i cant find any used parts, guess ill just go and buy the complete tranny part by part,and the rest of what i need. :(

[1tuffRC10]

bubba stump, if you can't find a charger for that booster box, take out the battery and hook it up to a motorcycle battery charger. The battery just may fit in your starter box, it's the same type of battery. clw AE makes a shock end that's steel and is real fat on one end. No way will the end come out. If you are going to make a habit of hitting the wall leave the ball cups on. Losi ball cups fit a little tighter. After a ball cup has been knocked off, you need to replace the cup as it will be stretched and will not stay on as well. As for that flimsy battery box, let off the gas when you jump. This will bring the nose of the truck down so you won't land on your batteries. Don't feel bad, I broke my tie straps on my batts on a jump this weekend the first time I hit it. Fuel tank lid, replace tank. atm I am running the losi header and Drake pipe with modifications to the pipe. It works great, I am only using 70% throttle and out ran everything. Just wish I could drive LOL

[clw]

1tuffRC10

Last RC I had was back in 1989, a gold chassis RC10 buggy. SO, I've got a lot to re-learn. Thanks for the advice.

[Ford850]

Can anyone tell me what they think are the top 3 best all-around pipes for the RC10GT? I want to replace the pipe that comes with the Team Built pull-start GT.

Thanks

[Polk]

I will be bashing, not racing for now on a soccer field which has a sand base, meaning i will be running on a hard packed grass area. So i think maybe either the Proline dirt hawg and the dirt paw which also look good.

But also some concrete, and roads...

I got some fuel today, Hotstuff Model Fuel, 15% Nitro, and the guy said it had about 20% oil. This will be alright aye?

[1tuffRC10]

I can't help you much with those tires, I haven't tried them before. As long as your fuel has 18% oil, it should be okay. Ford850 the Drake edition works well even though it says losi on it. Most good pipes go for bottom end with gas trucks. Any pipe on a good well tuned engine will work at high rpm JMO. clw Anytime, that's what these forums are for, I think LOL. BTW I am looking for some kind of seals for the outdrives, to cover where the CVD's go. Wore out another set this weekend, broke axel, last lap of 20 minute main. If I can't find any, I will make some! At seven bucks a side for outdrives and thirty plus for a set of CVD's, this is getting rough.

[1tuffRC10]

For around 30 dollars you can get the steel idler and titanium top shaft. I bet you don't wear them out. Part no 7671 is AE GT STEALTH TRANSMISSION KIT $99.95. Not sure if I would reuse a three dollar idler! I got tired of changing them, that's why I'm using the aftermarket ones.

[ross]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I can't help you much with those tires, I haven't tried them before. As long as your fuel has 18% oil, it should be okay. Ford850 the Drake edition works well even though it says losi on it. Most good pipes go for bottom end with gas trucks. Any pipe on a good well tuned engine will work at high rpm JMO. clw Anytime, that's what these forums are for, I think LOL. BTW I am looking for some kind of seals for the outdrives, to cover where the CVD's go. Wore out another set this weekend, broke axel, last lap of 20 minute main. If I can't find any, I will make some! At seven bucks a side for outdrives and thirty plus for a set of CVD's, this is getting rough.


Not sure exactly what you mean but www.rc10gthobby.com make some things called 'tranny savers' which seal the outside and inside of your outdrives, stops dirt getting in. Best thing off all is that they are really cheap and different colours are available. Think thats what your after anyway.

[rocknbil]

OK I'll bite, figgered someone else would by now:

Originally posted by clw
1. Front wheel points off to side after crashing!!....When I pick the truck up the lower shock mount is off the A-arm and the steering linkage (rod) is popped off the ball at the wheel....

Definately put the washer on the shock, just don't tighten it down so tight the shock doesn't move freely.

There's a bit of controversy over ball ends on this thread. :D People swear by their choice. You may a) buy stock ball ends and replace them on a regular basis to make sure they stay tight, or b) get RPM HD ball ends for a tighter fit, or c) go with the trapped ones. The problem with trapped ones is that if you hit something hard enough, now there's no ball end to pop off and you may very well break something more expensive, such as the turnbuckle, ball, or even rip the ball out of the shock tower causing you to buy a new shock tower. I use stocks and RPMs both, myself.



2. What's the answer to that flimsy battery box mounted as a bumper for all to hit?

If you have a problem with it you can always get a flat pack that mounts on top of your tranny or on the back of your shock tower, but may need to alter the body mount for it to work. I believe there is also an anodized aluminum rear bumper, seen them on eBay from RCboyz.

3. Anyone had the inside of the fuel tank lid disassemble?

Nope, why would you? :D

[1tuffRC10]

Thanks but I run them. I am looking for something like a boot to keep dirt out of the outdrives where the CVD's slide. I am getting dirt in there and it's chewing up my outdrives. When the outdrives get notched out they bind the axels up and eventually brake them. Someone said that racers edge made some but the crack up and don't last long. Can't even find them there! If I come up with something that works I'll let everyone know. There is a will so there is a way!;)

[clw]

1. Yeah, the washer sounds reasonable, breaking a servo doesn't! I'll put the washers on before Saturday.

2. I don't think I had the zip ties snug enough. After the first mishap I tighted them up a bit and it worked OK. Looking at a picture of Billy Easton's car it looks like he carries his batteries up front by the receiver! Is that the better setup?

3. I didn't break the lid on purpose! I opened it to refuel and the o-ring and the black o-ring guide thingy were stuck inside the opening. Peering into the tank I can see a broken clip. But it still sealed and ran well. I just ordered one of the new, opening in front, tanks for a replacement.

Thanks for the help.

Great board by the way!

4. What should I do, besides a full bearing set, to this RTR to make it more race ready? (Cheaper things first, please)

[1tuffRC10]

I would have to say the first thing to get would be the MIP clutch. Then just drive that thing around, get used to the power and feel, and have FUN! Check with the fast guys at your track for which tires work the best then go from there. BTW If you are running at a tight track, you may want to get a 14 tooth clutch bell. This will give you more take off power for those tight areas.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
I would have to say the first thing to get would be the MIP clutch. Then just drive that thing around, get used to the power and feel, and have FUN! Check with the fast guys at your track for which tires work the best then go from there. BTW If you are running at a tight track, you may want to get a 14 tooth clutch bell. This will give you more take off power for those tight areas.

I am witness to that with the 14t clutch gear. My friend is building a tight track so I wanted to be quick. I went from the 15t clutch gear down to the 14t clutch gear and let me tell you that is a difference:D

[AEfan]

I just got a 12cvr(s) engine. Tower had em on sale. I have been thinking of getting a rc10gt for a while. Would this be a good combination? I am assuming that the header included in the kit will bolt up to the cvr. Is this correct?

Another question. Is anybody on here from south arkansas? I have been looking for someone to run with.

thanks alot,
Jason

[1tuffRC10]

The CVR is IMO one of the best engines for the GT. If you are new to nitro you may want to get a carb restrictor to put in it until you get used to the power of the CVR and the feel of the GT. The stock manifold will work on the CVR just fine as it is. You can port it a little if you like. Let us know how it goes.

[chachi]

which O.S. .12 fits the GT?"

O.S. .12 CV-R (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb?

or

O.S. .12 CV-R w/10E Rotary Off-Road Carb?

AEfan, it looks like you got the (S)...i assume that is the correct engine, yes?

[trxstr1961]

curious if this would fit??

os cvx.15 in a gt, and if it does does it come in a (s) version with a pull start??

[The King]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
curious if this would fit??

os cvx.15 in a gt, and if it does does it come in a (s) version with a pull start??
I believe you are talking about the OS .15 cv-rx:confused: Yes it does come in the (s) version:D I have this same motor in my truck and it is awesome.

[trxstr1961]

could you show a pic of it?? im wanting to equip both my gt's (when finished) with this mill :)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by clw
..... it looks like he carries his batteries up front by the receiver! Is that the better setup?....

Sounds like an idea if you aren't getting enough bite in the front, but remember that will loosen up the rear a little . . . . don't know.

[NoPulse]

I got the Raytek Temp Gun. Now how do ya use it? I hold it close and i get wacky readings, I hold it far and point the lazer on the Glow Plug and get wacky readings?
What is recommended?:confused:

[The King]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
could you show a pic of it?? im wanting to equip both my gt's (when finished) with this mill :)
here it is with my mini-fridge head:)

[challenger440-6]

Hey couple questions bout that pic u just put up King. What kinda gas u got there, not blue thunder i would assume:rolleyes:

and how do u like that stinger kit, i've heard that it helps low end power but does it hurt youre top end?

[challenger440-6]

oh and whats a fridge head
:confused:

[The King]

Originally posted by challenger440-6
Hey couple questions bout that pic u just put up King. What kinda gas u got there, not blue thunder i would assume:rolleyes:

and how do u like that stinger kit, i've heard that it helps low end power but does it hurt youre top end?

First answer is I am running Eliminator Car Race Fuel by Wildcat Qwikfire 20% nitro. It was the only gas my LHS had.

Second answer I love the stinger. I does help the low end alot but that is what I was looking for. I even dropped a tooth on my clutch gear to get this low end. I am not concerned with top end because the track that I will be racing on has alot of twists and turns.:D

[The King]

Originally posted by challenger440-6
oh and whats a fridge head
:confused:

It is just the name of the cooling head for my motor. The company named it the mine fridge:D

[trxstr1961]

nice head there :D who makes that receiver cover i c on there, RPM??

[TallMouse]

double posted don't mind this one

[TallMouse]

hey can that fridge head fit on a .12 os engine cause it says only .15 but will it fit on it. also i whent down to get that stinger pipe and was sold out *sigh* but im still going to get it. that just shows how good it is thats it is sold out all the time

The king
does it make it sound more like a real 2 stroke engine like it says?

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
hey can that fridge head fit on a .12 os engine cause it says only .15 but will it fit on it. also i whent down to get that stinger pipe and was sold out *sigh* but im still going to get it. that just shows how good it is thats it is sold out all the time

The king
does it make it sound more like a real 2 stroke engine like it says?

Yes it sounds just like my banshee :D

I am not sure if the mini head will fit the .12 os :confused:

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
double posted don't mind this one

OK then I won't:D

[The King]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
nice head there :D who makes that receiver cover i c on there, RPM??

Thanks, Yes the maker is RPM:D

[Ford850]

The King, did you notice any lost of top speed using the stinger pipe?

[1tuffRC10]

The heads on the 12 and the 15 will not interchange. The difference in the size of the engine is the size of the piston thus larger bore in the 15. That's the difference on the OS CV line anyway. BTW No one asked me about the race Sunday.:(

[The King]

Originally posted by Ford850
The King, did you notice any lost of top speed using the stinger pipe?
I dont know because I changed things right away before I even ran my GT. I also changed my clutch gear so I could have better bottom end. That is where I noticed the difference:D

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
The heads on the 12 and the 15 will not interchange. The difference in the size of the engine is the size of the piston thus larger bore in the 15. That's the difference on the OS CV line anyway. BTW No one asked me about the race Sunday.:(

Hey Tuff how was the race?:D

[1tuffRC10]

Well, can you say cold? It was 35 for a high but we had 7 gas trucks and 9 buggies with 5 stock trucks. This was my first time at this track, and it's a awsome track. Would you believe I won the first qualifiyer? Didn't run the second one so I could get warm! Ended up quaifiying fourth but finished third in a 20 minute main. Got a pic of me and my truck on their website. Had a blast. One of the funnest tracks I have ever been to. I'll be back even though it's a two and half hour drive. BTW Ran 20 minutes and never flamed out OS TR IS GREAT:D

[AEfan]

1tuffrc10,
Thanks alot for the info on the cvr. I will definately look at getting a carb restrictor for it. Will the AE restrictor fit? If I have any more questions I definately know where to look. This thread is awesome. This will be my first nitro car, but I have been running electrics for about the past 10 years or so.

Chachi,
I got the s version of the cvr. The way I understand it, there is no need to cut the shaft in order for it to fit into the gt. Other engines will fit, but you will have to shorten the shaft to the correct length with a dremel tool.

[1tuffRC10]

You will have to cut the crank if I'm not mistaken. The threads will bottom out inside the nut and not against the flywheel. I use a drop of locktite on the collet, inside and outside. Be careful with it, it's not too good on the bearings! I also put a thin washer between the nut and flywheel, especially on aluminum flywheels. If you don't, the nut tends to dig into the flywheel and can cause the clutch bell to sit too close to the flywheel, not good. You don't need any extra heat there. Be sure to use lock washers on the screws going through the block into the mounts, maybe a dab of locktite there also. I'm not sure about the restrictor but it should be easy enough to try. If you have a throttle high end control on your radio, you can turn that down and cut a little punch out of it. Something I run on my TR is a steel flywheel, it also helps it to stay running at idle.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Well, can you say cold? It was 35 for a high but we had 7 gas trucks and 9 buggies with 5 stock trucks. This was my first time at this track, and it's a awsome track. Would you believe I won the first qualifiyer? Didn't run the second one so I could get warm! Ended up quaifiying fourth but finished third in a 20 minute main. Got a pic of me and my truck on their website. Had a blast. One of the funnest tracks I have ever been to. I'll be back even though it's a two and half hour drive. BTW Ran 20 minutes and never flamed out OS TR IS GREAT:D
That is a HEAT wave compared to the temps around here. With the wind chil here the temp was -25*:(

[clw]

Originally posted by clw
2. I don't think I had the zip ties snug enough. After the first mishap I tighted them up a bit and it worked OK. Looking at a picture of Billy Easton's car it looks like he carries his batteries up front by the receiver! Is that the better setup?

That's not the batteries, it's the receiver wrapped in some kind of plastic. Shhh! He don't know nothing!

[soslo]

AEfan & 1tuffRC10...
The cvr s (short shaft) is a direct drop in. No need to cut the crank.
The cvr head will fit the cv, and really perk up a cv.
OK.. I will be nice and ask.
What about the race on Sunday? :)

[soslo]

uh ohhhh.. Double post. Sorry folks. :)

[bubbastump]

i think i came across what every nitro burner wants!!!
im goin to be testing this weekend at local track.
if it works ill tell yall bout it

[duratraxman]

holy ass there is so many posts


but is this a sweet car? fast? duriable?

im planing on buying this car soon

[atm92484_3]

Yes, yes, and yes. I've had my GT for 3 years and in that time, I've only managed to break maybe $10 in parts. For speed, the GT RTR will do 35 mph without any trouble. After removing the carb restrictor and giving up a little tuning ease, the truck will break 40.

[bubbastump]

yes it is a great car
go get one

[The King]

Originally posted by duratraxman
holy ass there is so many posts


but is this a sweet car? fast? duriable?

im planing on buying this car soon

yes to all your ???s :D

[chachi]

thanks for the info re: cv-r versus cv-r(s)

is the only difference between the pulllstart and non-pullstart kits the engine mount? does anybody know what the part # for the non-pullstart engine mount is?

[joke_one]

some one tell me how i can get my gt to STOP doing wheelies it's a rtr+ with stock gearing but it still won't stop doing wheelies or just spinning the tires

[1tuffRC10]

jokeone, sounds like your slipper is too tight. Run the nut on the slipper flush with the end of the slipper shaft. If it slips for more than 5 feet tighten it a little until you get it where you want it. chachi, the non pull start mount is part no. 7770. As I posted on here before with that mount you will need the non pull start flywheel, pull start one will stick out the bottom of the chassis. Check you header also, it may sit a little low and hit the left rear control arm. bubbastump, let us know! soslo, I won't tell about the race again. Still not sure about that crank.

[Walter]

Is there a conversion from the old tub chassis to the new flat plate chassis .Also what part number for the new RPM receiver box??
Walter

[sosidge]

The RX boxes are 80055 for blue (icky) and 80052 for black (classy).

The Chassis upgrade kits from Associated are part number 7056 for pull start, and 7057 for non-pull.

[The King]

I am looking at getting a new body next week just so I can do a custom paint job. I was wondering what you all think is the best body for the GT. Right now I am using the Ford body.

Thanks
D.King

[trxstr1961]

wondering which would make a good nitro platform carbon fiber or graphite?? how about titanium??

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by duratraxman
holy ass there is so many posts...but is this a sweet car? fast? duriable?...planing on buying this car soon

Then U B "GTman" instead of "duratraxman" (probably already taken. :D )

The fact that this has more posts than any other thread is a testament to the popularity of the GT, and not because of good marketing either.

Originally posted by trxstr1961
which would make a good nitro platform carbon fiber or graphite?? how about titanium??

Are you talking about chassis when you say platform? Or double-decker?

I have a GT carbon fiber chassis and am not impressed, it has no implementation for the nose tubes and even if that were there, I like the alum. chassis better. The carbon fiber chassis has a lot more axial flex, and while titanium would be cool the cost would be restrictive and probably too brittle. Just a guess . . .

[sosidge]

Originally posted by The King
I was wondering what you all think is the best body for the GT.

Pro-line Crowd Pleazer GT (long-wheelbase chassis only though) - excellent fit, especially around the pipe, and low-slung.

[The King]

I was wondering if you can cut out the side windows on the GT body and still be race legal?

[Mystracing]

King - at our track you can cut out the side windows. According to ROAR it's left up to interpretation. It directly says you can have 1/2 of the windshield cut out. It implies that is all that can be cut out. Obviously we all have holes in our bodies that wouldn't be legal for an electric truck, a hole above the engine is always allowed but not addressed in the rule book. As far as your local track is concerned, call them and ask. Personally, I don't think it's a real good idea. The cooling advantage is minimal at best and it makes for a pretty weak body on the drivers side front.

[The King]

Originally posted by Mystracing
King - at our track you can cut out the side windows. According to ROAR it's left up to interpretation. It directly says you can have 1/2 of the windshield cut out. It implies that is all that can be cut out. Obviously we all have holes in our bodies that wouldn't be legal for an electric truck, a hole above the engine is always allowed but not addressed in the rule book. As far as your local track is concerned, call them and ask. Personally, I don't think it's a real good idea. The cooling advantage is minimal at best and it makes for a pretty weak body on the drivers side front.

Thanks for the tip, Looks like I will just try to tint the windows:D

[1tuffRC10]

If you don't cut out the side window, how do you refuel, remove the body? Never heard a rule that said you couldn't cut out the sides. Only heard they and the windshield had to be clear. I cut all but about 5/16 of the side windows out. That last bit of window I bend out a little to help scoop air into the truck. I have had Atomik and Dynamite (I think it is) Triton. The Atomik's were thicker at one time but all the manufacturers have gotten a little thicker now.The Triton body has the mounts holes marked but neither has the protective cover on them. BTW The Triton body sure does look mean!

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
If you don't cut out the side window, how do you refuel, remove the body? Never heard a rule that said you couldn't cut out the sides. Only heard they and the windshield had to be clear. I cut all but about 5/16 of the side windows out. That last bit of window I bend out a little to help scoop air into the truck. I have had Atomik and Dynamite (I think it is) Triton. The Atomik's were thicker at one time but all the manufacturers have gotten a little thicker now.The Triton body has the mounts holes marked but neither has the protective cover on them. BTW The Triton body sure does look mean!

I am so dumb, I didn't even think about refueling:(
Hey Tuff, Do you have a link so I can see what that Triton body looks like:confused:

[1tuffRC10]

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/services/advanceresultsDetail.asp?strProd=BODY&strSearchType=ALL&strInCategory=C&strInManufacturer=DYN Try that King. Sorry its not a link but copy and paste. Wish I knew a little about puters! :D

[1tuffRC10]

Oh well I guess it is a link LOL

[1tuffRC10]

http://www.smiracing.com/news.htm Try this, my truck is in the center pic. It is the white one on the left. Pay no attention to the goofy looking thing standing behind it. That's a bum we hired to fuel my truck! LOL

[atm92484_3]

LOL...bum...was it kind of like in Happy Gilmore where he just hired a bum in the parking lot?

There was some discussion a few pages back about Sirio .12s fitting or not fitting the GT. Has anyone found any truth to this or what can be done to make them fit?

[Mystracing]

1tuffRC10 - You can refuel through either the hole above the motor for the standard tank or through the hole in the windshield for the reverse fill tank. It really doesnt make much difference, I prefer the hole in the windshield because the fuel bottle doesn't end up pointing straight at the reciever. That way when a over zealous pit man hoses down the inside of the truck it's not headed directly at the reciever. Whatever works for a person is fine it's not about rite or wrong.

As far as the rules are concerned there is no ROAR rule that you can't cut out the side window. As I said it is left open to interpretation. There are rules listed for bodies on 10th scale trucks that are obviously geared toward electric. The only reference to 1/10th gas truck bodies in all of ROARs rules is the rule that you can only cut out 1/2 of the winshield. It doesn't say you can't cut off the entire rest of the body. You have to go through the individual rules and try to figure out which ones apply. The clear window rules apply to all bodies exept those furnished as standard equipment on RTR's, the rule that says it's okay to cut out the rear window as long as the entire rear window is cut out is pretty hard to apply to a gas truck. Yet there is no rule about a cutout above the engine. They also just for informational purposes require that when the side window is removed it has to be totally removed. Of course once again it's hard to determine if that rule is intended for gas trucks or not.

Being as electric and gas trucks aren't an IFMAR class the rule book isn't real clear about what exactly applies or doesn't concerning the bodies.

[duratraxman]

all right what pecantage fuel should i use in my gt i was think 20% or 10%? is it ok if i use dynamite glow plugs for the engine.

[atm92484_3]

Yes the Dynamite plugs will work. They are just repackaged McCoys. For fuel, I'd run 20%. 10% is okay, but you'll get more power from 20%.

[bubbastump]

my sample arrived so to the lab i go gonna idle a tank with 20% and idle a tank with same gal of gas but with a new thing added.
then on the low speed runs same way
then all out high speed except for turning around
gonne monitor temp and log it down and post it so yall can see if it works.
im expecting more power cooler temps and a more time to a tank of gas

[Ford850]

are the Rpm Talonz rim just as good as the stock rims?

[1tuffRC10]

I used to run some rpm wheels when my lhs had them. They seemed ok didn't strip out easy any way. The other reason I ran them is the stock wheels were twisting in the middle, not at the pin but the "fins" comming out from there were getting twisted and tearing off of the center part of the wheel. I haven't ran a set of tires that long in a while so I haven't had that problem lately. BTW I didn't try the chrome ones, look good though!

[joke_one]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
jokeone, sounds like your slipper is too tight. Run the nut on the slipper flush with the end of the slipper shaft. If it slips for more than 5 feet tighten it a little until you get it where you want it.


well thats what i did but still it pulls wheelies to easily and no that i have new bowties on the back it does wheelies easier so yea stupid wheelies...

[The King]

Originally posted by joke_one
well thats what i did but still it pulls wheelies to easily and no that i have new bowties on the back it does wheelies easier so yea stupid wheelies...

Are you guys doing wheelies in the grass or dirt? Because I am on the street most of the time and my GT just burns out.

[1tuffRC10]

If your slipper is slipping enough, then you may want to try shock limiters in the front, inside the shock bodies. BTW You are running the rear carriers in the forward position? If so try moving them back.

[1tuffRC10]

If nothing else put a little weight on the nose.

[1tuffRC10]

Two words, traction compound!

[AEfan]

Well, I ordered my gt yesterday. I got the team version. Is there anything I should know while I build it? I am putting a .12cvr in it. What kinda fuel do guys recommend? I have some wildcat 20% nitro 18% oil. I have a hitec 605 for steering. Will this be OK?

Jason

[atm92484_3]

Good pick on the truck. If you don't have a good set of allen drivers, I'd reccomend getting some. It'll make assembly a lot easier and a lot less painless. That Wildcat fuel will do fine. A 605 should be good for steering. If it isn't metal gears, I'd reccomend upgrading eventually though since plastic gears and offroad don't mix well.

[duratraxman]

whta tunings should i run ill be using 20%. what do u use on the tunings its about 40 50 degrees here

help me out. is tuning going ot be easy because i hear alot about seized over heated engines. thanx

[The King]

Originally posted by RTRaeGT
I hope this thread blossoms out other owners should do the same in order to help out people like me for specific kits!although most probleams are universal.........KEEP IT UP!

It looks like you got your wish:D

[AEfan]

atm92484_3,
Thanks alot for the info. Luckily I have built a few cars before, so I have already invested in a good set of allen drivers. They are so handy and quite a bit better than the wrenches that come with ae kits. I will look into getting a metal gear set for my 605.

[Rdub202]

i dont exactly knw what i want yet but the Gt is in the 5 choices.

hyper 7
RC10GT
XXX-NT
HB Lightning
Rustler 2.5

ne ways how is the GT overall for bashing and minimal racing. how is handling? speed? ease of maintnence? jumping? landing?

also if u are selling any of these on my list contact me somehow email r_dub2002@msn.com aim- rdub202 or thetc3pimp4l or PM me
-RyaN-

[1tuffRC10]

It's been a couple of years ago but I tried that metal gear switch and there was something different about the cases. Like I said it's been a whilt so maybe they changed it but don't be surprised! I had to buy cases but used the "guts" of the plastic gear servo.

[The King]

I am no longer getting e-mails from this thread:(
Do you know why? I said yes to the part where it said did I want to be e-mailed. I was getting them for the longest time when somebody posted here and now nothing for a couple of days. I am having withdrawl:mad: Please give me a cure:D

[The King]

I said I am not connected but yet it went and sent my post in:confused: I am confused

[1tuffRC10]

Be glad it's working. Tech talk is down again. I'm getting strange messages and no mail too so it's RC Zone problem. Did you get your truck to stop spinning the rears? Hope you had better luck than I did. Noticed my servo saver was pretty shot so I put in a new one just to find out that the servo saver didn't! When you turn the wheel one way and the truck goes another, well can you say penthouse to outhouse! Dead last. Oh well, there's always the next race!

[coolracer47]

My gt is actually turning into a racer.

Here are the things ive done to it

O.s. .15 cv-x
mip racing clutch
proline tires and rims step pins in the back blades in the front.
Airtronics mx-3 radio.

and alot more on the way.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Be glad it's working. Tech talk is down again. I'm getting strange messages and no mail too so it's RC Zone problem. Did you get your truck to stop spinning the rears? Hope you had better luck than I did. Noticed my servo saver was pretty shot so I put in a new one just to find out that the servo saver didn't! When you turn the wheel one way and the truck goes another, well can you say penthouse to outhouse! Dead last. Oh well, there's always the next race!

That is good news Tuff, Here I thought I was messed up or something:D I haven't ran my GT in a couple of days. It has been below 0 for a few days now. I don't think I can solve my tire spinning problem until summer. The pavement is frozen to much for me to grip. :)

[TallMouse]

i just made some money off the bucs game on the super bowl and was looking to spend some money as was wondering whats the best battery pack that is recharable for the servos and also whats the best charger for it

and i need a new body and was wondering to all of you who own one whats the best looking body and it doesn't have to fit the pull start problem thing cause im getting the stinger exhaust so it should not be in the way

[atm92484_3]

I've found Trinity reciever packs to be among the best. For chargers, its your call. Pretty much anything that can do NiMh reciever packs will get the job done.

[bubbastump]

for reciever battery get a 5 cell nickel metal hydride and as fer bodier get the crown pleaser

well first phaze of test is done.ir temp glowplug=214,exhaust temp=201
thats with blue thunder 20% race
and with same fuel 205 glowplug and 197 temp on exhaust with a specail sause added i had to turn down idle it picked up rpms
naet phaze is tuesday evening i hope (low speed runs)
so i belive the results will be even better

1st stage(idle) pass
2nd stage (low speed) tbd
3rd stage (high speed) tbd

[bubbastump]

BTW nitro fix in basement whoooo nilly i miss the smell

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by AEfan
Well, I ordered my gt yesterday. I got the team version. Is there anything I should know while I build it? I am putting a .12cvr in it. What kinda fuel do guys recommend? I have some wildcat 20% nitro 18% oil. I have a hitec 605 for steering. Will this be OK?

Jason

Jason,
This is what I do.... take it or leave it, It's up to you.

I lock-tite every screw. I don't over tighten my tanny case screws, I just snug them a tad.
I prefer Trinity Monster fuel over anything I've tried yet.
I also recomend good servos if your start to race the truck. I swear by Futaba 9404 or 9402 servos!!!

[offroadcrazy01]

does anybody know how shock limiters work and if so do they make a big diffence

[trxstr1961]

IM getting ANOTHER nds. this will make no.3 LOL:D this one i think is gonna be a show peice tho, not sure yet!

[RC10's]

I would get the MRC 959 for charging batterys, it works on NiMH and NiCD, i have one and use it to charge my reciever pack, and radio batterys, it works very well. And for AEfan while building the truck i would lock-tite pretty much every screw because they eventually work there way loose. good luck

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
i just made some money off the bucs game on the super bowl and was looking to spend some money as was wondering whats the best battery pack that is recharable for the servos and also whats the best charger for it

and i need a new body and was wondering to all of you who own one whats the best looking body and it doesn't have to fit the pull start problem thing cause im getting the stinger exhaust so it should not be in the way

To me the best looking body would be Cindy Crawford:D Oh sorry you were talking about bodys for your R/C10gt. Well I like the ford 150 body by Pro-line:cool:

[clw]

This is probably a very overasked question, but as I drive the RC10GT RTR more you can see the original servo fight to keep the wheels at a constant arc through the turn. I thought it was push at first but I think it's also a servo problem. No the batteries aren't weak, just an underpowered servo.

So, I am seeking advice. What's a good strong servo to use that'll not break the bank?

Thanks

[sosidge]

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
does anybody know how shock limiters work and if so do they make a big diffence

Internal shock limiters affect the amount of droop the suspension has.

Less droop (more internal spacers) in the front will give the car more on-power steering. Less in the rear will give more rear grip off-power. Always run similar amounts of droop front and rear, or slightly less at the front.

Less droop will make the car's rough track handling worse, but it can be a useful tuning thing on a smooth, grippy track (it can help to stop the car grip-rolling as well)

[dog8spam]

Yesterday I was cleaning my engine and found this stuff that looked like dark blue paint, but didn't dry. It was all over around the engine mounts and on all the screws that touched the engine besides the ones on the head. Has anyone seen that stuff? I'd like to get it to stop because it looks bad and dirt sticks to it.

I think the best looking body is the original 150, but theyre not in production anymore. My second choioce would be the trinity reference, the pics on thier site's ugly though.

[trxstr1961]

Well dog8spam, if your using blue thunder, there is the prob. that is good fuel, but leave a blue coloring all over the place. back between pages 10-20 of this thread, you'll findd info on this subject! :D

[M 5]

Im thinking of hopping up my truck....to make it more colorful...not so dull....

What kind of alloy hop-ups do you have?

What brands do you have?

Which is the best company for alloy parts?

[offroadcrazy01]

Originally posted by sosidge
Internal shock limiters affect the amount of droop the suspension has.

Less droop (more internal spacers) in the front will give the car more on-power steering. Less in the rear will give more rear grip off-power. Always run similar amounts of droop front and rear, or slightly less at the front.

Less droop will make the car's rough track handling worse, but it can be a useful tuning thing on a smooth, grippy track (it can help to stop the car grip-rolling as well)


Thanks for the tip

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by The King
.....Because I am on the street most of the time and my GT just burns out. .....

King it's those low profile tires on your GT, they're dense and slide rather than grip. Try to Dirt Hawgs or Dirt Hawgs II, they're a very soft compund and bite in pretty hard, I used to do wheelies in the 10T electric if I left the clutch tight . . .

[1tuffRC10]

sosidge, nice post. Good explination of limiters.

clw, hi-tech makes a good metal gear servo for around 40 bucks. We have posted about it earlier. It's not much on torque but you may need to check your servo saver. I have found the plastic parts of it to wear out in the V areas. If they start looking like a U instead, they are shot. Try turning the fronts quick from side to side, by hand and watch what moves and what doesn't. Right now I am running the MIP zero maintence bb steering with a GS large servo saver. You will have to use a couple washers under the servo mounts for clearance and then it's still tight. It can get dirt between the servo saver and the chassis and "lock it up". It works ok but I have been told that it is still not as good as the AE set up. Something about the geometry is different.

king, no e mails here yet either!

[The King]

When are we going to be up and running:confused:

[RC10's]

well today for the second time the stupid e-clip that holds on the pinion fell off, this time i lost one of the bearings. Have any of you had this problem where the e-clip falls off? and does anyone have a solution besides putting on a new e-clip? I bought a package of e-clips from AE which they sell it packs of 5-6 like they know its a re-occuring problem....Any help, ideas or suggestions would be apprecatied, thanks.

[duratraxman]

what fuel should i run? i was thinking red alert 20% or the trinity 20% break in fuel. what about glow plugs? mcoy?duratrax? which model plug? thanx

[atm92484_3]

Any Trinity fuel will work well, but using break-in fuel is only going to increase oil on the model and reduce engine performance. I'd reccomend the regular Monster Horsepower fuel (the purple stuff) and McCoy (MC9 or MC59) or O.S. (A3 or #8) plugs.

RC10, try replacing the clutchnut. I've had nuts get so worn that e-clips won't stay on. Another choice is to get 1/8" snap rings. I plan on doing this in the very near future. It will be damn near impossible for even a blown bearing to knock one of those off. :D

[RC10's]

my clutchnut its fine because the truck is brand new, and what is your plan on the snap ring?

[1tuffRC10]

The problem is your clutch nut. Some will tell you to squeeze the clip a little but this will not help. The groove that the e clip fits in has got a "flat" spot in it. As it spins around the flat spot pops the clip off. Been there, did that! Go to your hardware store and get some 3/16 external snap rings. The ones I use are thin enough to use two of them. If you don't believe me, then you will need a couple bags of clutch nut clips and a bunch of bearings, not to mention spur gears and clutch bells!

duratraxman, it depends on which engine you have as to which glow plug you need. OS based engines use OS plugs. Pico based engines use McCoy plugs. They will interchange but keep in mind that McCoy plugs are longer. An OS plug in a pico based engine will cause your engine to have less compression. A McCoy in an OS can hit the piston!

king, maybe they need a little help, kick their puter! LOL

[1tuffRC10]

I can tell you from experience that a blown bearing will not knock one of those external snap rings off. They work great! Sometime during the race this weekend, one of my Clips came off and the other one stayed on. A couple of months ago I had a clutch bearing go out in a Q. Didn't even notice until after the run. Everything on the outside bearing was gone except for the inner race.

[Wallis Racing]

Originally posted by M 5
Im thinking of hopping up my truck to make it more colorful...not so dull....

Hey,
you should check out the plastic stuff that RPM make. i prefer them to alloy parts because if you buy a $30 alloy part and it bends or breaks, its tuff cookies. but if you break an RPM part, they will give you a free replacement, no probs. plus you said you wanted parts to brighten up your truck, well most of the RPM stuff for the GT comes in black, neon Blue and Neon yellow.
i have neon blue and yellow parts all over my GT.
blue arms, blue reciever box, yellow and blue ball cups, yellow body mounts, yellow front bumper and yellow rear arm mounts. they are really good looking, and durable. best thing is that for about $1 more then the stock replacement, you can have wicked looking more durable parts that have a life time garentee.
JMHO

oh yeah, hopefully i will get some average pics of my truck tomorrow or thursday. and in about 2 weeks i will get some wicked shots.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[atm92484_3]

So the 3/16" ones do work well on a 3/16" shaft then?

[1tuffRC10]

atm, I am fairly sure that the size you need is 3/16. That is the same as the inside diameter of the bearings so it is a 3/16 shaft. Yes they work great. They are a little hard to remove but I use an exacto knife or a pic to take them off. They are 20 cents a piece so I usually get a few, someone always needs an e clip or something to hold the bearings in.

m5, if you are going to race skip the rear rpm arms, they are too springy. They do not handle near the same as the stocks. I still run rpm's on the front and so far they seem ok. If you are not going to race, the rpm arms are great. I haven't broke one after a year of using them.

[1tuffRC10]

Has anyone seen one of those sprint cars, kits made out of a GT? I saw one this weekend and that thing looks like fun.

[eman88]

http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=3110379009

take out the space after ebay. and no this isn't mine, i was just looking for rc10gts on ebay and found that

[dog8spam]

How can RPM garentee front A-Arms? I rip those things off all the time hitting posts or mailboxes, (even a pile of snow! :( )I dont care what its made off, at 40 its coming off.

[1tuffRC10]

LOL At 40 you need aluminum. Not much plastic will survive at that temp!

eman88, that's nice but this thing I saw was a kit with frt shock tower, offset to the left so you ran a short front buggy shock on the left. Even had a roll cage and nerf bars. I'll see if I can find out what the name of the kit is. I think he said it would cost around 800 if you had to buy the truck too.

[Wallis Racing]

dog8spam-
i mean garentee as in warrentee, as in free replacement:rolleyes:

if you had alloy arms on, and you hit something at 40mph, it'll bent your expensive alloy arm, mangle your hinge pins, and if your really unlucky you'll even break other stuff like shock shafts and towers, because instead of the plastic arm giving way and taking all the force an alloy one will tranfer the force onto other parts, makeing it a very expensive crash:)
The RPM arms are stronger then stock, only about $1 more and have unlimited free replacements.

so you can buy stock ones and pay $7 or whatever everytime you break one, or you can pay $8 for some RPM ones and only pay $3 for postage each time, or you can pay $30 for alloy ones and pay about $50 when you crash at 40mph. personaly ill take the RPM arms, cause they are already saving me money.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[trxstr1961]

hey wallis , how do u get the blue print??

oh,king do u sti;ll have that ae.15??

[rocknbil]

I prefer to stay with the stock items, allowing them to break before breaking anything more expensive, they were designed to do that and it is a Good Idea. :D

[Mystracing]

That's a good question. How could that be possible?

You could try typing [ COLOR=blue ] before your text and [ /COLOR ] after your text. Without any spaces will make it work instead of show up.

You can also use the "COLOR" box by the vB Code to insert the codes and then just type your message between them.

[bubbastump]

ok lets try it[color=red] boo

[The King]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
hey wallis , how do u get the blue print??

oh,king do u sti;ll have that ae.15??

Yes, I still have the ae.15 plus the stock monifold and pipe. Not for long because I might be trading it out for a temp gage and some other parts:D

[The King]

Originally posted by The King
Yes, I still have the ae.15 plus the stock monifold and pipe. Not for long because I might be trading it out for a temp gage and some other parts:D

I no longer have the motor the trade has been made:D

[geo8498]

Can anyone tell me why my stock AE 15 engine would start burning up glow plugs? I don't think I've been running too lean, I haven't leaned the engine out at all. But I'm not an expert. It was running fine until about a week ago. I've since gotten burned-out coils on three plugs in the past week. The plugs I use are the McCoy MC59, just as recommended. Same as I've been using since I got the truck in September.

The truck can go for about 3/4 tank and I hear the tell-tale change in pitch and I looses power. Everytime, it has been the glow plug.

Is it possible that moisture could cause this; as it is winter time, and there is snow and wet. (BTW, I have winterized everything, and I drive mostly in the parking lot.) I was thinking that maybe condensation can be getting in through the carb. If this could be a problem, is there something I can do to better prevent it?

[The King]

I am finally getting e-mail confirmation:D

[dog8spam]

I'm still not getting e-mail, but as far as your problem geo it sounds like there was a change in temp.
When air cools the air particles get closer togeather, so if there was 10 million (im making up these figures) oxegen particles for one cubic inch of air took into the engine at 80 deg., there could be 20 million at 35 deg. and the engine will run leaner.

[Polk]

yay im gettin emails too!

[bubbastump]

i finished testing
overall no big temp change sometimes a few deg high and a few deg lower

but alot more power and a tank lasted about 30 to 60 sec longer depending on driving track

no fuel coming from exhaust only oil

im not sure if it lenghtens engine life or not that will take about 5 gallons to find out

the stuff is about 35bux a bottle 32oz
1 oz will treat 10 gallons
so that makes 2.95cc to a gallon
no more than 3cc
if yall want more info let me know

[OldskoolGT]

Sure, so what is the secret stuff bubbastump?

[Polk]

Originally posted by eman88
http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=3110379009

take out the space after ebay. and no this isn't mine, i was just looking for rc10gts on ebay and found that


Oh my god!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

Something HAS to be wrong with it!
He probably ripped it off from somewhere!

I notice it has no engine....

God so tempting to bid!

[bubbastump]

its a fuel enhanser made for diesel engines but they found it works with every fuel

i also use in my work truck and pov
and now i use in buggy and gt

if u decide to get it
i would reccomend to idle a tank 1st
u might not have to lean or fatten but u will need to readjust the idle screw down a bit



http://www.fuelsplusinc.com/home.html

worst case u can but it for your pov

[Ford850]

what should be my next 5 hop-ups?

I have a Team Built GT with:
.15CV-X
MIP 4-n-1 clutch
Ofna linkage kit
Dirt Hawg tires (rear)
Pro-line edge tires (front)

Thanks

[1tuffRC10]

bubbastump, sounds good. Keep us informed. I got a e mail from DEH0722 and was trying to figure out who it was. Let me know if you do.

[The King]

Originally posted by Ford850
what should be my next 5 hop-ups?

I have a Team Built GT with:
.15CV-X
MIP 4-n-1 clutch
Ofna linkage kit
Dirt Hawg tires (rear)
Pro-line edge tires (front)

Thanks

Go with the motor first;)

[RC10's]

I see a lot of you talking about the MIP 4n1 clutch and was wondering how much better then stock it really is and if yall woudl recommend it... thanks

[trxstr1961]

well, what do ya know, this is too cool. does anyone here know where i can get just the rear hinge pin set at
?? that is 1 part i need to get for my "project gt" :(