Associated RC10GT Forum v5.0

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by RC10's
....MIP 4n1 clutch and was wondering how much better then stock it really is.....

Many swear by it, my wife's has one with a lightweight flywheel, mine runs stock, I really don't think it's that big of a deal. I have two brand new ones on my box and haven't installed them because I don't have issues with the stock one, it seems every bit as smooth as my wife's. You'll have to drive the pins further into the flywheel or get an MIP flywheel for it to install correctly.


Originally posted by trxstr1961
.... where i can get just the rear hinge pin set ....

Look at manual for part numbers, I don't have them handy.

7356 Inner:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2936&P=0

7358 outer:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2937&P=0

7209, truck inner, for original 10T but I think it is the same:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2916&P=0


here's 6380, inner

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2565&P=0

6381, outer

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2566&P=0

[1tuffRC10]

RC10's, my truck seems to idle better with the RPM clutch. Plus it's adjustable. Get a couple and try trimming on them a little.

[ross]

Hi Guys, Havent posted on here for a while because RC Zone stopped emailing me every time some posted something new so I forgot all about this thread! Anyway, Ive got it back working now. Since last time Ive got my .12CVR almost fully run in now and its VERY fast compared to my old Dynamite engine. Ive raced the new CVR once and it feels like a new truck, it goes around the corners alot better (dont ask me why) as well has been able to overtake and keep up with most people on the track. Im very pleased with it so far. But like I said its still on a slightly rich setting so theres still some power that I havent discovered yet! Last week after I did a 10 minute final the engine was still cool and I could hold my hand on the engine head forever.

[1tuffRC10]

Sounds like ross is MOVING ON UP! LOL

[bubbastump]

jamedup it gonna be 50 ish sunday u goin to track?

[bubbastump]

and u can try some d2+

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by bubbastump
jamedup it gonna be 50 ish sunday u goin to track?

Naaa, I'm doing yard work for the next fews so my wife will allow me outta the yard this summer.

[bubbastump]

bummer first nice weekend and u gotta do yard york
hehehehe

[trxstr1961]

hey rocknbil, could i see a pic of the wife's truck?? thanks for the links, this helps me out alot :)

[morfracerX]

What are some good ways to see if your engine has had it I think my C-vr has had it .It does not want to start it never give me troble before

[ross]

Originally posted by morfracerX
What are some good ways to see if your engine has had it I think my C-vr has had it .It does not want to start it never give me troble before

Turn the flywheel over with your finger, if when it gets to TDC you can turn it over with 1 finger or without alot of effort then your engine probaly needs a rebuild.

If its not starting, try replacing the glo plug and check the mixture settings.

[The King]

Cant wait to race:D

[FastBanshee]

What is the best and most reliable engine to put in the GT? I was thinking of putting in a Siro but what exhaust header do I run to make it work in the GT. My GT is the old style one with the black tub chassis. I plan to upgrade it to the new version but what exactly do I need to up grade it? Thanks for the help.

[soslo]

The upgrade chassis kit comes with everything you need. Just specify p/start or non-p/start version when you order it.
Tower has the faithful cv-r for $89.00. Killer engine, especially at that price.
The factory Associated pipe is hard to beat. Still run it on this one with no problem. The thing boils the tires going down the straights.:)

[chachi]

few questions for all the experts:

1) what is the difference between the rtr chassis and the factory team chassis? if it is different, is there any advantage?

2) can an rtr chassis be converted to non-pullstart? if so, what is needed?

[soslo]

I b no expert. If i am wrong, someone please correct me.

1) If you have the 1st version rtr, the bottom screws are not countersunk like the team chassis. I think the chassis is also thinner.
The new GT+ rtr comes with the team chassis.
There is no diference between the team, and factory team chassis.

2) If you want to get a starter box and put and non p/s motor on the rtr chassis, you will need the non p/s (smaller) flywheel, and non p/s motor mounts.
or
You can get the chassis upgrade kit (50.00) for p/s or non p/s, if you have the older version rtr and want to upgrade the chassis at the same time.

I got the older tub chassis team kit with p/s for my son many moons ago, and went to the non p/s chassis upgrade kit from there.
We got the smaller flywheel and the non p/s manifold to go with it also.

[Wallis Racing]

FastBanshee-
I was always thinking of getting a sirio, but now that they have changed the stats on their website, they are not so crash hot. the .12 outlaw went from 2hp to 1.45hp, so i'd say they got found out. and now seeing as its only 1.45hp, i recomend you look at the RB Concept X12's or the X12T's.
you need to get a standard shaft to have a dirrect fit, so no SG Cranks. i have an X12 and it seriously kicks, and a mate of mine has the X12T in his adam drake and it is HEAPS faster then the X12, so if you can, go for the X12T. 5 ports, turbo plug, turbo crank, SOOOOO not race legal, but wicked fun, LOL.
for a header, you can get one from Venom Racing, Nova make one that will work, but both of these stick out and sit about 4mm off the wheel, some dont like that, but i have never had a prob, i use the nova one. if you dont want the pipe sticking out, you can get the header thats on the new mugen truck, that one is REAL compact and my mate with the X12T uses it, as well as another mate with a X12. no real performance difference between these 3 headers, so its personal preference and price.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Wallis Racing]

Anyone know who makes a stainless steal or titanium screw set?
Hardcore make a Ti set for the NTC3(basicly the same screws) but its $88!!
and i know GPM makes a SS set, which is only $18, but GPM is kinda hard to get seeing as you can only get it from hobbyect.

anyone else make a Ti orSS set?

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[soslo]

Hey MadMan....
Would it hurt anything to put a rotary carb on the 200 or 210, performance wise?
Is there a choice between rotary and slide for these 2 engines?

[Leinzey]

Anyone know if the KFactory tank for the NTC3 will fit the GT? I know they have the same mounting holes:rolleyes:, but the KFactory tank is much longer than stock, and already there isn't much space between the tank and steering servo. ...I really don't feel like spending money on a new gas tank only to find that it won't fit;) . Thanks guys.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Mad Man the sirio is definitly a faster engine than the x-12 even now that the ratings are 1.4 and 1.45 these are the true ratings or very close to them. The sirio would not be a good offroad engine because its designed for onroad and it revs high but the powerband is in the upper range so it may not have the torque for trucks. It would also be impossible to get traction with one a truck it would just spin out instantly. I think the mt-12 and x-12 are good high power offroad engines but you will still have trouble getting traction with them.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Leinzey
Anyone know if the KFactory tank for the NTC3 will fit the GT? I know they have the same mounting holes...

I was looking at that, and judging from the area for the fuel tank on my NTC3 compared to that on the GT, I really doubt it will fit since theres a servo at one end and the engine mount at the other. $50 for that tank is a lot to spend for just experimenting.

Wallis, check out www.mcmaster.com. Its an industrial supply site and they sell stainless steel screws in packs of 100. For between $50 and $80, you could get a custom screw kit and never need to buy screws again.

[dog8spam]

Why the heck are 3/16 axles bigger than 1/4?

[Wallis Racing]

soslo-
i would not hurt to use a rotary carb. you can get rotary carbs for the RB engines, but not for sirios. the theory is that a slid carb operates smoother and gives a better power curve, but i would even know if you swaped my carbs around while i was sleeping:)

Leinzey-
check out the AE tank part number 7719. its a updated version of the new reverse fill tank, so no more burnt nuckles on the engines trying to refuel. it has a little insert inside it that is suposed to make it 75cc, but if you dont put it in i spose it will make then tank like 77cc, LOL its a wicked tank though.
oh, by the way, to answer your question the K factory tank DOES fit, i have used it have had no probs, but i then got the tank above^ cause its reverse fill.


Pro3/nmt105-
i know the X12 wont keep up with the Sirio, but the X12T will.
both the sirio and X12T are 5port turbo plug turbo crank engines. the only difference is that the sirio has the ACC piston and sleave which is suposed to make the piston and sleave expand at the same rate, so you never loose compression when the engine is hot. but and other people just say it will cut the life of the engine. and a rebuild is about $100us. i say go for the X12T, is more known and people have prooven that its well worth the money. im still sceptile of the sirios, seing as they have already lied about the ratings, what else have they lied about?

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[joke_one]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Why the heck are 3/16 axles bigger than 1/4?


they aren't they are actually smaller.. because

1/4 of an inch its equal to 4/16 of an inch... and 3/16 is smaller then that... this makes for larger bearing which means they are stronger...

speaking of bearings
does anyone know if there's anyone that makes ceramic bearings for the gt because that would be awesome

[soslo]

Thank you Mad Man. :)
A Sirio is not even under consideration, so no problemo there.

joke-one..
Call www.bocabearings.com
They have any bearing you could dream of, and even have ceramic engine bearings.
There is also a complete bearing set for the GT. I normally get the green seal bearings. They hold up great.
Dang ceramics are too pricey!! :p

[1tuffRC10]

On that axle thing, the part of the axle that fits through the wheel is actually larger on 3/16 axles. If you buy 1/4 wheels to put on 3/16 axles, you will need to drill them out to get them to fit.

[The King]

What ball cups should I get. Use the stock AE ones, get the RPM ones or is there some better ones out there to use :confused:

[cbr74]

Definitely RPM.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by chachi
1) what is the difference between the rtr chassis and the factory team chassis?......2) can an rtr chassis be converted to non-pullstart?

Soslo almost had it correct, except
Originally posted by soslo
1) ...I think the chassis is also thinner.

Actually it is the other way around, the team chassis is actually a bit thinner (and lighter) than the RTR chassis. In addition it is also about 1/4" longer and does not have the nose piece to attach a standard AE flat bumper, see link below to compare. The flywheel hole in the RTR really has to be beveled out like the team to be of any real use.

I have a GT that is an RTR chassis and my wife's is a team chassis, but overall the handling shows hardly any difference.

Originally posted by trxstr1961
. . . could i see a pic of the wife's truck??

Course, here 'tis (again,) follow the enlargement links. :D
http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

Originally posted by joke_one
...and 3/16 is smaller (than 1/4)... this makes for larger bearing which means they are stronger...

While I happen to agree with you, it should be pointed out here that people like the 3/16" axles better because the bearings, which fit into the same holes in the hub carrier, are thicker and they believe it increases bearing durability. Personally I've had no problem with the 1/4" axle bearings.

[trxstr1961]

Nice rides, hope mine will loook that good when im done :D

[chachi]

rocknbill

thanks for the info re: rtr vs team chassis

if i understand correctly, to convert an rtr to non-pull, i need:

1) non-pull engine mounts

2) non-pull flywheel

3) non-pull manifold

4) to machine out the chassis fly wheel hole, making it easier to contact the flywheel with the starter box wheel

is there anything else that needs to be done?

thanks again.

[FastBanshee]

What engine is every one running in there GT's? I'm looking to get a new one or just rebuild my OS.12CV. Any suggestions or comments on engines will be a great help. I looking for a fast reliable engine that will be used for back yard bashing only no racing.

[The King]

Originally posted by FastBanshee
What engine is every one running in there GT's? I'm looking to get a new one or just rebuild my OS.12CV. Any suggestions or comments on engines will be a great help. I looking for a fast reliable engine that will be used for back yard bashing only no racing.
I am running the OS .15 cv-rx (s) great engine:D

[ZootMan]

Hey.

Im looking into getting my first nitro stadium truck (im currently running electric) and i wanted to know if the rc10 gt plus was worth getting over the losi sport.If you own a gt plus please post some pics so i can see whats inside.(rc10.com does not post the inside of the car)

Thanx

[The King]

Originally posted by ZootMan
Hey.

Im looking into getting my first nitro stadium truck (im currently running electric) and i wanted to know if the rc10 gt plus was worth getting over the losi sport.If you own a gt plus please post some pics so i can see whats inside.(rc10.com does not post the inside of the car)

Thanx

Here is mine with a few hop ups:D

[eman88]

do you guys think this truck is worth 250 dollars?
http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3112237673&category=19168
take out the space after each ebay to see it
the two spaces are within the bolded areas.
please dont bid on it and take it from me :(

it looks like a good deal to me, but im not sure because I dont know a ton about rc10gts.

[Mystracing]

If you want it, it's worth it. To some extent it depends on what your going to do with it though. If your looking for something to go bashing or racing with I'd stay away from it. If your looking for something to impress upgrade lovers, or just to look at go for it. I doubt that you'll get it for $250 though.

This will get some people tweaked but it wouldn't be a good truck for racing because trucks that are a collection of upgrades rarely handle properly.

I better explain what I mean rite now. There's nothing wrong with most upgrades, what I mean about the collection is when a truck is upgraded to the point that 3/4's of it is aftermarket it's like buying a knockoff of the original. Like the Kyosho electric truck, they look and are a lot like the original, but not as good as what they copied.

[Mystracing]

I finally got my new factory team truck ready to race.

http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/gtmain.jpg
http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/gtside.jpg

[eman88]

Originally posted by Mystracing
If you want it, it's worth it. To some extent it depends on what your going to do with it though. If your looking for something to go bashing or racing with I'd stay away from it. If your looking for something to impress upgrade lovers, or just to look at go for it. I doubt that you'll get it for $250 though.

This will get some people tweaked but it wouldn't be a good truck for racing because trucks that are a collection of upgrades rarely handle properly.

I better explain what I mean rite now. There's nothing wrong with most upgrades, what I mean about the collection is when a truck is upgraded to the point that 3/4's of it is aftermarket it's like buying a knockoff of the original. Like the Kyosho electric truck, they look and are a lot like the original, but not as good as what they copied.

yea, I know exactly what you mean. All i want is a team or factory team truck with a good FM radio, like an xr3. I guess I will let this one slide by, because most of those hopups seem pretty useless.

these are the prices i found for these parts. Most of these parts seem pretty unneccesary.
HAMMAD GHUMAN PARTS
CHASSIS 90
REAR BULKHEAD 37
BULKHEAD BRACE --
REAR LOWER SHOCK MOUNTS 15
IDLER GEAR 10
DIFF GEAR 20
TOPSHAFT 30
REAR AXLE CARRIERS 40
REAR ARM MOUNTS 30
NOSE BRACE TUBE MOUNTS ---
thanks for your opinion and quick response.


btw
Mystracing - was that body painted by torn creations? It looks a lot like the torn designs that he makes. Nice truck!

[eman88]

Also, is it worth getting a factory team over a team?
How much of a difference would I see while bashing or racing?
I plan on bashing now but might race in the future, within a year.

[Mystracing]

Thanks for the compliment,

I painted the body myself. I usuaully tell everyone that I just copy HauntedMyst. The truth is I just made the paint scheme up because I like graphite and I wanted something that was easy to reproduce on a buggy.

Personally, I'm not convinced the Factory Team is any better than the Team version with a set of titanium tie rods.

I would have bought a team version istead, but I ran across a Factory Team at a hobby shop that was going out of bussiness and I got the kit for $210. Most of the differences are purely cosmetic like the graphite shock towers and blue servo saver. I do think it looks nice though:D

In bashing or racing the only difference I see is it hurts a lot more when a pretty Factory Team vehicle gets scratched up, then when a team version gets scratched up.

It's pretty hard to convince me the Factory Team is better performance wise because I was still winning races with my old tub chassis team version last summer. The stock suspension setup on the new trucks is better than the stock setup for a tub chassis but properly tuned it doesn't make much difference on the track. The one major difference I noticed between the tub and the new chassis, is the new chassis stays much cleaner and is easier to clean, but that doesn't apply to this.

[eman88]

In bashing or racing the only difference I see is it hurts a lot more when a pretty Factory Team vehicle gets scratched up, then when a team version gets scratched up.

do you mean it hurts to scratch up a factory team?
kind of like you dont want to run it as hard as you run the team truck because its worth more?

[Mystracing]

I meant that kind of half joking. The first time I go to run a new vehicle the thought always crosses my mind that it will never be new again. It's just that when you finish building a new vehicle it looks so nice and one run later it's used. It's like buying a new real car and knowing the value just dropped 20% because you drove it home. After that first run it doesn't matter anymore.

[eman88]

yea, i know what you mean. Thats why i think i will go with a used one off ebay. I have been watching the trucks on ebay for a month or so, waiting for a good deal.
Im looking for a truck with a radio that is something like an xr3(i want a good FM radio) and i want it to be a team or factory team truck.
I figure if i have a used truck that is already scratched I wont have that feeling of holding back on the first few runs because I dont want to scratch it.
thanks for your input


anyone else have any opinions on if the factory team is worth it?
do those hop ups do anything really for performance?

[1tuffRC10]

IMO The best hop up you can get for a GT is the brake system. The stock disc is junk. The aftermarket brake system is much better and last longer than the stock. RPM ball cups are pretty to look at but no good for racing. I run encaptured ends but they don't give so a big mistake will brake something. As for the gears, titanium top, steel idler, and stock diff seems to be pretty much bullet proof. As long as your slipper is set right. BTW Gave up on the covers for the outdrives so I am running dogbones with wore out outdrives. It worked good till I run out of gas on a long fast straight.... rod on order!

[eman88]

I was wondering if the hop ups on the factory team that arent on the team version are worth the money, and if they actually improve performance.

[atm92484_3]

None of them aside from the graphite shock towers will make the car handle better but they all improve the durability (well I guess all except for the aluminum screws). The titanium turnbuckles and uno shock shafts are the big items.

[OldskoolGT]

Yeah, the FT really isn't gonna perform any differently than a Team version. For the relatively small price difference ($30), I think the FT is worth it since titanium turnbuckles are a necessity IMHO. You also get the carbon-nitride coated shock shafts which won't scratch and pretty blue parts. Besides, the carbon fiber shock towers are so much nicer to look at. :)

[eman88]

ok
i will look for a factory team off ebay

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by chachi
....i need:
1) non-pull engine mounts

Yes, otherwise the flywheel will not reach through the starter hole
2) non-pull flywheel
Should but the P.S. flywheel might work, I had one with a PS flywheel and it looked like it would reach but I put a non-PS on it anyway
3) non-pull manifold
The P.S. manifold will work, it just has a different angle and the pipe rides a little higher than the non-P.S. and slightly alters the center of gravity. It's more like they made the P.S. version of the manifold to make room for the P.S., this can wait if you need to cut corners.
4) to machine out the chassis fly wheel hole, making it easier to contact the flywheel with the starter box wheel
While it will work without this, yes, it does make life a lot easier. Take your time so it doesn't get to scratched up! :D
...anything else that needs to be done?....

Don't think so . . . .

Originally posted by FastBanshee
....What engine is every one running in there GT's?.....
See previous page, wife's is same engine as your and it rocks, mine is a Trinity Picco .12 RC speed and it rocks harder. :D

Originally posted by Mystracing
. . . finally got my new factory team truck ready to race.

Myst is that horsewrap I see on your shocks? It will make them last forever, horsewrap roolz. :D

[Mystracing]

Basically the same thing. Crescenzi Racing sells those shock savers in a bunch of different colors.

Also, you don't actually need to switch to the non-pull setup to use a started box. I help a lot of people with thier engines and even if they have pull starts I usually start them with my starter box. If you have the pull start flywheel and motor mounts it works fine. Switching to the non-pull mounts, flywheel and manifold are more a cosmetic thing than anything else. It does lower the CG which theoretically will make it handle better, but unless your an incredible driver you'll never see any difference in lap times.

I agree totally about dremeling the chassis for a little extra clearance, I do that on all of my trucks. I have never had the truck die from the flywheel hitting the ground. Might be un-neccessary but it sure makes it a lot easier on the starter box because you dont have to be quite so perfect in your alignment. Also if you do this it isn't necessary to actually enlarge the hole. All you need to do is bevel the chassis in front and behind the flywheel. Just make sure you don't leave a sharp edge that will cut into the wheel on the starter box.

[trxstr1961]

on another post about bearrings, i found this:
8= for transmission case and front wheels
2= for transmission case
4= for rear hubs
2= for differential
1= for slipper clutch

i found only 6 for tranny and 4 for front wheels

where does the 1 for slipper go, and these 2 for diff, where do they go??

[Mystracing]

The two extras for the diff are on the inside. One inside the right outdrive and the other in the center of the diff gear directly beside it. There use to be a bearing on the slipper shaft but they replaced it with the larger bushing, and there also used to be an actual thrust bearing in place of the smaller bushing on the slipper shaft.

[DuckTape]

Originally posted by Mystracing
I finally got my new factory team truck ready to race.

http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/gtmain.jpg
http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/gtside.jpg

Hey Myst, I am new to nitro but had an electric since september of 2001, and I liked it in the beginning but after I got it all tricked out, I was like this sux, and then I went to the my track and HOLY JUNK are there some nice RC10GT's and nitros there, and I wanted one really bad. I have been looking into a nitro since about the middle of the year of 2002, and I dropped it because I had to pay for something that my friend broke (dads truck window if ya wanna know... OUCH!!!) and now I want to get back into it. What all do you have in your truck? I want almost the same setup... and how much did u pay??? Thanks Travis

[eman88]

that truck off ebay with all the hopups ended at 305ish, which is more than i wanted to spend on it. I'm looking for a factory team off ebay. Please tell me if you find one that looks nice that you think is a good idea to buy. I want an FM radio, but if it is with a cheap radio or is new for cheap I still want to see it.
Basically I dont want to spend more than 300, so it will probably have to be used. I can always also get the radio off ebay for cheap.
any recomendations for an engine if i get everything seperate?
I was thinking about the OS .12 cv-x or something along those lines.
2 of my friends with Stadium trucks have that engine, one kit has the xxx-nt kit(seems more complex, harder to build) and the other kid has a team built rc10gt w/ .12 cv-x


I want to have a better truck( team or factory team) for around 300.

wow, im ramblying on

[Mystracing]

DuckTape - The truck itself is a non pull Factory Team kit I got it cheap but tower has them listed at $270. The motor is a OS CVR(S) Tower has them for $92 because they are being discontinued. Awesome deal if anyone needs a motor for a GT. The less obvious stuff; RPM rear hub carriers with oversized bearings 1/2 x 3/16 instead of 3/8 X 3/16. Crescenzi Brake, Shock Savers, 1600mah reciever pack, and tranny savers. I run Kimbrough spur gears because they're thinner which gives more clearence between the gear and a-arm mount. Also if you look close at the front, the castor blocks are T3 blocks. The oversized hub carriers in the rear lower the truck .23" so to keep the ride height set properly the front has to be lowered which is easily done with the T3 castor blocks and a spacer under the GT spindles. This lowered setup works great on todays hard packed high traction tracks. Also has the updated nitro tc3 tank. I love this tank there's virtually no fuel foaming and it can't develop a leak around the pickup like the stock tank tends too after a season of racing. MIP 4N1 Clutch.

All together I'd guess around $425 minus the electronics.

I run a Futaba 3PJ PCM radio with Airtronics 94358 servos. I know that's massive overkill for the throttle servo but it's the only extra servo I had when I got the truck. If you wan't more detials hit the WWW below.

[eman88]

where did you order the Crescenzi parts from?

[Mystracing]

eman88 - Hit the www button below this post and scroll down to the Crescenzi Racing logo. It's a link the the Crescenzi site.

$300 is a tough number for a Factory team with a good engine in it. Even if you could get the truck for that it probably won't have electronics (at least not anything good). If you did find a Team or Factory Team that's pretty much RTR for that price I'd be leary of the engine condition. If that budget is tight I'd look for a old tub chassis, people practically give them away. If you could get the roller for $75 - $100 which is what people tend to pay for them, then you can spend the rest on a good engine and a descent FM radio. The Airtronics MX3 is pretty awesome for it's price.

I found a truck on ebay you could probably get for under $100 and if you threw a MX3 in it and a good engine you could probably pull off beating your friends for $300. The motors the key. I'm assuming your talking about street racing not at an actual track. If that's true any truck with a big motor in it will win. E-mail me from my web site if you want the details.

[DuckTape]

I have a question.... I need to know what size hex screws are on the Factory Team RC10Gt...?? And will this (http://**************/ws/*******************************3111515089&category=2594) set work??? Thanks alot... Travis

[DuckTape]

Does anyone in here have an MSN name? Thanks Travis

BTW mine is ICDUMBPPL242@hotmail.com

[The King]

Originally posted by DuckTape
Does anyone in here have an MSN name? Thanks Travis

BTW mine is ICDUMBPPL242@hotmail.com

Nope, I speak for myself.:D

[eman88]

well
I do have this radio
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWC44**&P=7T
The rc10gt with all those aluminium hop ups on it just ended at 300flat with an xr3. So i think if i wait for a good deal I will be able to pick one up for 300 with a good radio.
I could also get an xr3 off ebay for 75ish. I have seen slightly used ones go for that much.

[eman88]

ducktape-for ebay sites you have to add spaces to the URL
this is your url. most is edited out by the server

http://**************/ws/*******************************3111515089&category=2594
i got the URL for you
http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3111515089&category=2594

I put a space after each "ebay" in the url. You have to put a space somewhere in each edited out section, and tell people where it is so they can eliminate it.

[DuckTape]

http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2594&item=3111515089&rd=1

sorry about that!!! I am a noob to these boards!!! Thanks Travis

[chachi]

mystracing and rocknbil:

thanks for all the info. much appreciated.

[geo8498]

Can anyone tell me what would be a good brake setup to replace the stock one on my RC10GT Plus. Is there a better disk available, or an entire new brake set?

[cbr74]

That set will work fine. The two main sizes you need are 1/16" and 3/32".

Brake set-up.. the Crescenzi is excellent. Crescenzi (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/)

[The King]

That is one hell of a set up:D

[CaptainBilly]

what kind of steering servo should i buy???


i am thinking of buying an airtronics MX-3

here is the link 4 it at tower

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCHA8**&P=0

it comes with one servo, so i thought i would use that 4 the throttle servo

for steering i was think of a hitec digital servo HS-5245

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRT0&P=0

is this good, or should i look 4 something else
:confused:

[duratraxman]

my car!!! yea its an rc10gt i got 2 plugs wrench after run oil and air filter oild baby its going to be sweet.

im goign to reliy sp on you guys for info alright

[bubbastump]

well i had to faten a bit more with the d2+ but man is this stuff awesome
now if i can learn to drive at these speeds and quick i might qual for c main or better and the funny part is i am using os cv.12

fuel lasting longer =less pitstops
more top end= less time on full throttle
more bottom end =up to speed quick
powerban sweeter
idles smooth
idle at 1/2 factory reccomendation

[gopack]

Hey guys, I just got myself the rcgt10 plus rtr and am totally psyched! However, not thrilled with the look of the stock body and would like to paint my own. Associated doesn't seem to make a body specific for the rcgt10 plus, so do you all know what body I could get that fits this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

GOPACK!

[rocknbil]

Although proline has a pretty cool site it's in frames which totally sucks butt since the link to the exact page is not in the frameset, which leaves no navigation to other parts of the site (don't get me started on frames, I'm a developer and this is one of the things that really pisses me off! :D ):

http://www.prolineracing.com/proline/bodies/plbodies.html#racetrucks

Otherwise go to the page below, click on products, then Race Trucks, AE & Losi.

http://www.prolineracing.com/flash/plhome.html

[CaptainBilly]

dude, you are sooooo right, frames really bite the big one.

i am not a developer, but i do some web authoring and, not only are fames hard to use, but they bite the big one.

so what if it shreds a little time off the load time for the 56kers and 28.8kers but still

i would rather have it in tables, so it just loads the whole page

[ZootMan]

I have heard that the car (gt plus) is prety fast is that true?I also wanted to know if the car is stabe and turns sharply.How is the suspension?And how does it jump?

Sorry for the questions but i need to know.If you have pics of the inside of your car and you can post them i would appreciate it very much.
THANX.....

[DuckTape]

Okay, I cant stand people who some here and dont use proper english LET ALONE proper punctuation. It really gets annoying having only dots seperating the sentances and gets kinda hard to read. Thanks very much. Travis

[ZootMan]

DUCKTAPE-
It's okay man, we all have issues.I mean that I can't stand people who can't stand when someone uses some improper english to cut down on the time it takes to write a message.
(Note the proper grammer);)
Please dont take this personal

Everyone-

Look, i know that this is not an ofne buggy thread but this rtr buggy is only $309 and it has racing features and a reliable radio.

http://ofna.com/images/ultLXpro-top-BIG.jpg

[The King]

Originally posted by bubbastump
well i had to faten a bit more with the d2+ but man is this stuff awesome
now if i can learn to drive at these speeds and quick i might qual for c main or better and the funny part is i am using os cv.12

fuel lasting longer =less pitstops
more top end= less time on full throttle
more bottom end =up to speed quick
powerban sweeter
idles smooth
idle at 1/2 factory reccomendation

Bubbastup, Are you talkin about that additive i seen a few posts ago?

[bubbastump]

Yes I am. Here is the link ,incase you missed it.



here is the link for D2+ (http://www.fuelsplusinc.com/home.html)

[The King]

Originally posted by bubbastump
Yes I am. Here is the link ,incase you missed it.



here is the link for D2+ (http://www.fuelsplusinc.com/home.html)

Do you know if you can get this in a store so I can have it right away or do I have to order it on line? Plus how much do you add per tank:confused:

[bubbastump]

Sorry to say , but you have to order it.
For 1 tank just add a drop .
Concidering 1 quart treats 320 gallons
If i did math right 2.95 cc to a gallon
so just add a drop
I idled a tank with regular fuel then after a fillup
(bluethunder 20 race) i added a drop into tank.
You can hear the engine rev up when it hits carb.
Turn down idle, fatten low speed a smidge and same with high.
take it fer a whirl if you dont like it you can use in your fullsize car.

oohhh yeah have fun hope u drive better than me

[NoPulse]

Got the MIP Clutch.
Having problems installing it!
I have a AE .15 Pull Start. The Fly wheel pins need to be pressed down to the base of fly wheel. I did so, and the pins are still too long. Can I install the Clutch to a pull start fly wheel? Let me know if anybody has installed this clucth to their pull start fly wheel.
I work in Covina, CA. I hope I dont have to go to MIP (in Covina) and kick some A$$! :mad: :confused:

[Draxx]

I just put the MIP clutch in my new GTFT during
building.Although mine is a non pullstart, the problem is the same. My pins were flush to the rear of the flywheel, so I simply cut the very ends of the clutch pins off with a dremel tool so they are even with the outer edge of the clutch shoes. Took about 5 minutes.

+++ BTW, Iam in Glendora...you must shop at Pegasus as well.

[YZ167]

Damn, you guys live in Covina and Glendora? I live in Glendora as well. We need to go hit up Azusa Canyon and do some thrashing... My Gt has been sitting around for 1/2 a year. I was to lasy to buy a starter box after mine burnt up. I'll get one in the month. You guys have pics of your GT's? List of hot ups? How long you two had them? Mine GT is in pieces...I'll put some pics up as soon as I put it back together and get a list of hot ups in the mean time.

Jacob


Thrash HARD !

[Draxx]

I just got my GT. I sold off my Ofna MBX and wanted to get back into 1/10th scale. Did the Losi
thing already and didnt like the layout of their trucks. Too complicated to get to anything. So the
GTFT seemed the obvious choice.

I am done building, but still need to pick up a
starter box next week(my frist non-pullstart). I liked how well it went together and am looking forward to running. It is Factory Team stock except for the clutch. Off hand, I couldn't see anything to upgrade..it seems pretty complete.

[1tuffRC10]

The MIP clutch is the way to go. After you knock the pins down, you may need to grind them off a little. They need to be short enough so the shoes will fit against the flywheel without the pin sticking into the spring. Try setting number 2 with the clutch. BTW If you trim the tips of the shoes, you can make the clutch stay disengaged till the engine gets to a higher rpm. Kind of like a stall converter on a drag car. I had my first experience with a four shoe set up and it's no where near as good as the MIP, JMHO.

ducktape, can't and don't are contractions. I thought this was a rc forum, not an english forum!

[bubbastump]

I think he was talkin bout me. Iam lazy and dont like doing puncuation and proper grammer.
Im trying to be better for the stickler,but when i fill out tickets at wouk I usualy dont have room to list all the problems with the heating system or a/c in that lil ol space.
Im sorry ducktape but it how I am.
btw what is ducktape?
I use ducttape on duct work never seen it spelled ducktape.
Or is it an inside thing I will never understand?
btw... Its snowing like 9 inches overnight :(

[trxstr1961]

just saw the pic of that ofna ultra.

1: is that a 15 in it?
2: how much?
3 r they expensive to run?
4: r they raceable??

[NoPulse]

Thanks for your info guys! Im gonna get my dremel out and cut the tips off. Hey Tuff, so u say trim off 1/32" or so off the shoes?

Draxx & Yz167. Yeah guys lets hook up and race! I go to Pegasus, The Dirt, and RPM race tracks. Elite hobby in Covina, and Pegasus is a great place to shop. Tower Hobby is cool but the wait just kills me.
Dont you guys love our "sunny" California weather! We can race all year long!

Anyways, I work in Covina, Cypress & Bonnie Cove (Fireman). And I would love to hook up and race with ya guys. (I need a pit man).
E-mail me if ya intrested,
Steve:D

[1tuffRC10]

No Pulse, yes I'm cutting the trailing edges off a bit. More cut on tracks with less traction. I'm not cutting them for weight but to shorten the shoe so that it has to come out farther to reach the clutch bell. If you take the shoe and set it on its ends, measure up on the shoes about 3/16 of an inch and cut straight down. With this clutch the engine revs higher before the clutch engages. Also the truck will sit and idle without trying to pull forward. Note, 3/16 is for a very low traction track.

[Draxx]

NO Pulse.... I have never been over to Elite Hobby. Will have to check it out. Been using Pegasus and Tower. Got to love a hobby shop with a full scale RC10GT sticking out the side of the building.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by DuckTape
Okay, I cant stand people who some here and dont use proper english LET ALONE proper punctuation. It really gets annoying having only dots seperating the sentances and gets kinda hard to read. Thanks very much. Travis

I love contradictions.

"People who some here"? ***? do you mean "come here?"

"Okay, I cant stand people who some here and dont use proper english LET ALONE proper punctuation."

This sentence (sp., see below) is a gold mine of vagueness. Although it's a common colloquialism, "Let Alone" is used in such a context as to support unclarity. Are we letting punctuation alone? Or is it that we don't use proper English (again, sp.) but even worse, proper punctuation? Furthermore a comma is missing before the word "alone" to assist in this Monty Python balloon of sentences.


cant is an apostrophied form of can not or cannot and is spelled "can't"

dont is an apostrophied form of do not and is spelled "don't"

sentance is spelled sentence

seperating is spelled separating

Unless you are talking about "the spin given to a propelled ball by striking it on one side or releasing it with a sharp twist" or
Bodily movement in an effort to influence the movement of a propelled object", the proper spelling of english as it is referred to as a language is English.

kinda - well that's not even a f**king word.


"Let he without sin cast the first stone . . . ."

. . .

.....

. . .

[ross]

Im with rocknbil and DuckTape on that one, it does my head in when people cant be bothered to write in English, especially when they are asking questions.


Ross.

[ZootMan]

The ofna is only $309.99 and comes with many race features and the engine is a .25 force. This is acceptable to run with other cars equiped with .21 ( at my track anyways)

They are about the most user friendly cars you can drive and are fun to drive as well.The 4wd lets the car pull the car around the turns. This ofna is equipped with front/rear/middle differentials to supply even power to all four wheels for maximum stability. thay are of corse bigger than 1/10 scale so the are a little easier to work on.

I hope i answered some questions for you.

[1tuffRC10]

If this was a talk show someone would be saying, go to Oprah!

[rocknbil]

The point is the people who live in the glass houses are the first to cast stones, we all understand what everyone means, nobody's perfect, big deal if a period or who gets skipped. Unless you're a woman.

[1tuffRC10]

U tell 'em bill! Anyone racing this weekend?

[ZootMan]

I am going to race. My track just fixed it up really nice because losi is going to be there in february.(minnreg rc club in clearwater.)

Does anyone know much about flameout?If you do please tell me.

What is up with all of the arguments?

**heres a tip*
More rc talk....less of everything else.

[RC10's]

my ride...they look good clean huh? too bad they dont stay that way

[RC10's]

another

[trxstr1961]

nice ride, yep too bad they dont stay clean LOL :D

[FatherSpeed]

Hello to Everyone,

I have been reading the posts on here for the last few weeks and just finally figured out how to post myself. I'm an old Geezer that was into R.C. back in the late 1980's. My 13 yr. old grandson got interested and the two of us put a T-3 together. Had some fun with it and then he got a used GT with a .12c Rossi in it.

The Rossi and the smell of nitro got me hooked and I am finishing my own GT, O.S. cv-r setup. I'm not to sure about piloting an R.C now, but I'm going to give it a try. I like working on them as much or more than running them. We got a lot of good info from this site and look foreward to getting involved.

OS Rocket, if you are around the board, great job on the Rossi.

[bubbastump]

well fatherspeed we all wish we had a grandpa like you.
osrocket is a good guy im savin some work up fer him
gettin os.21 fer buggie and when p/s goes im gonna send to him
he is a wizzard
im gonna call him merlin of the motor

[RC10's]

i would advise you to make SURE your battery pack is in place good, twice mine has fallen out and disconnected and the car has gone off at full throttle. So make sure the batterys are in good, i also run a fail-safe just to be shure.

[bubbastump]

rc10 i wouldnt run one without it

[trxstr1961]

i have a prob for u mill gurus: my os12 cvx(s) that i have in my nds runs at around 175-180... how do i get it to run at 230?? the higest ive had it was 210 last summer :confused:

[The King]

Originally posted by rocknbil
The point is the people who live in the glass houses are the first to cast stones, we all understand what everyone means, nobody's perfect, big deal if a period or who gets skipped. Unless you're a woman.

Is it ok to cast stones if you live in a house that has bullet proof glass:confused: J/K:D

[bubbastump]

try changin plugs and leanin it out

[Wallis Racing]

Hey RC10,
Is 23 your race number?
If it is, COOL, cause its mine too!!
Our house is also number 23, LOL

well i have to go kick some Losi but tomorrow(sunday), guess i will tell you guys how it went tomorrow night. will have some new pics of my GT next weekend cause i my stormer order should be arriving on monday, complete with my Kinwald alloy parts, HG chassis, lunsford ti hinge pins and much more.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[ross]

Yep, Ill be racing over the other side of the pond tommorow.

[ZootMan]

Here is a goal for you guys. If you get pics of your cars at the track you will get a high five from me.

You can raise your running temp by higher nitro fuels and make sure that you dont have air leaks too.

[Draxx]

I dont have any race pictures, but I just got my FT put together so I can't resist sending a picture anyway. Now I am off to get a starter box and see what she will do.:D

[ZootMan]

DRAXX- that is a simple body but i have to say it is about the nicest looking body that i have seen on a gt.
Although it is not a race pic......**HIGH FIVE**
Anyone else?

Does anyone know what flameout is? i have not had it happen to me before.

[bubbastump]

you want pics well here you go sorry none of car able to be posted allready did. ill take new pics tonight

[ZootMan]

Nice track.It looks like it can hold a lot of speed.

[trxstr1961]

back between pages 170-180 theres a pic of a trace with a AWSOME crossover jump in it. thats the kind of jumps id add to your track :cool:

[trxstr1961]

any 1 want a AE 15?? needs new piston and sleeve,and pull start. will sell it for $20 or trade for body

[RC10's]

wallis racing- 23 isnt technically my race number since i dont race, its just my favorite number....

[The King]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ZootMan
[B]DRAXX- that is a simple body but i have to say it is about the nicest looking body that i have seen on a gt.
Although it is not a race pic......**HIGH FIVE**
Anyone else?


How about this one ZootMan?

[Draxx]

Thanks Zootman...appreciate the high five. I like that body alot King. Cool wing!

After tackeling the lack of instructions for my new Ofna starter box, I got it configured("80%
assembled" before I had to take it completely apart)and started up my new FT. I am running a O.S.CV that I bought on e-bay and put a new O'Donnel head and some gaskets in. It started right up and with a little tweaking seems to run pretty well(real well for a $25.00 e-bay item).

With just a few minutes of play time, I can already tell I am going to love this truck. It seems much more nimble that my Losi did and I really like the simple chassis layout. Being a first time starter box user, I am sold on that too.. big time!

[ZootMan]

The King-
Thats an awesome body and i am impressed in the rear fins. That body makes you.....well.....The KIng.
**high five**
(nice snow shot)

[ZootMan]

sorry about the double post.....
Here is a body that i thought was pretty cool on towerhobbies.com

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/tmkc1039.jpg

[rc10gtroller]

does anbody know of any good threaded shocks for the gt?

[bubbastump]

actually verry soon track will be torn down and redone with a crossover

[The King]

Originally posted by ZootMan
The King-
Thats an awesome body and i am impressed in the rear fins. That body makes you.....well.....The KIng.
**high five**
(nice snow shot)

Thanks man, High Five back to you:D

[soslo]

Has anyone ever tried the Collari motors in a GT??
Saw one in a (cough,cough) Losi.. The motor looked and sounded very nice on the track.
Keep up the sweet lookn' bods!! Put the Losi's to shame! hehe!! :)

[bubbastump]

ok here r my rides

[bubbastump]

ok maybe this time

[Wallis Racing]

I feel left out, i want a high five, so im digging deep with this one:p

Here is my FTGT 6months ago, with my old(now dead) body. wait till you guys see my new body:D these are before it had ANY hop-ups. and this time next week i will give you some pics with all current hop-ups, and of my current body.

http://www.rccars.com/rcmovies/images/julsmt/BROCK/DSC00054.JPG
http://www.rccars.com/rcmovies/images/julsmt/BROCK/DSC00058.JPG
http://www.rccars.com/rcmovies/images/julsmt/BROCK/DSC00043.JPG

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[1tuffRC10]

Anyone know of a place that makes titanium or some other type of outdrives for a GT?

[soslo]

I think I saw where MIP makes some, RC10

ZootMan... Flameout occurs whenever your engine dies, for whatever reason.
It could be bad tuning, glow plug, bad fuel. air leak, piston failure, or even a fuel bottle cap stuck in between the flywheel and clutch bell (hehe!!). Not a good thing, no matter what caused it. (Especially in the middle of a race.)

Now then.. My question for all.
Decided on the Collari/Picco XS12RS, rotary carb w/threaded crank.
Does Associated have a rear exhaust manifold for the GT?
If not, does anyone have any suggestions on a good manifold? I would like to be able to use the stock Associated pipe with it.
Thanks for any input. :)

[atm92484_3]

RC10, the best outdrives are still the stockers. I tried the MIP ones and they are junk. They wore out in no time flat.

Soslo, check out this header by Trinity:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBGN7&P=7

[rc10gtroller]

does anobody know of any good threaded shocks for the gt?

[soslo]

Thank you muchly atm!

Gtroller..
There are none that I know of.
Some of the Losi's may fit?

[ZootMan]

wallis- you have earned this one.....**high five**
I have to say that that is one of the better bodies i have seen on a gt.

soslo- thanx for the info you supplied on flameout.Now what is this you said about a fuel bottle cap between the clutchbell and the flywheel?please tell.

[YZ167]

Bent Hinge pin...Good thing I had my Lunsford ones hanging around to replace it.

[YZ167]

Old Holeshot chassis a little tired from all the scatches...

[YZ167]

No Problem....nothing a good sand blast can't take care of. Wait tell I bring out the the polisher :rolleyes:

[soslo]

Just one of those days ZootMan.
My son thought I was too slow at pitting for him, so he got some else to "help" me. He held while I fueled, but he jerked it away before I was done fueling, and took the filler bottle cap along with it. Wasn't long after that... it died. Found the cap between the flywheel and clutch bell. Needless to say, a driver was pretty well P.O.'d that day. At least he doesn't gripe at me for being slow anymore!! LOL!!

Tip of the day..
Make sure the cap is all the way off, or shoved down all the way on the neck, when fueling during races. :)

[The King]

Can you post a picture for me to see please?

[atm92484_3]

Roller, you could give the Losi shocks for the Drake a try. They're about the only threaded shocks I'd reccomend though. Its not worth downgrading from a teflon coated shock as smooth as AE's to something less just because its threaded.

[The King]

There are big servo savers and little servo savers. What type do you reccomend for the GT?

[NoPulse]

Just seeing if anybody would be intrested in buying or trading something for a XTM racing "Baja Bullet" Elec. Stadium Truck.
This is brand new in the box RTR.
Sales for $180.00 Can read all about it here at this link Baja Bullet (http://www.hobbypeople.net/review/145630rcca.htm)
I do need a starter box, so that would be a good trade! Other wise, how much would ya buy it for?
Obviously "we" would never use this truck, but it would be a great starter truck for a younger brother or son.

[1tuffRC10]

Thanks for the info guys. King, I run the MIP steering with a large GS servo saver. The small ones are not strong enough to last. You will have to put a couple washers under each servo mount for clearance between the servosaver and the chassis. Kimbrough (sp) has a new servo saver out with a longer arm but I would bet it will not be strong enough to work very long.

[1tuffRC10]

soslo, we have tried several rear exhaust headers and the only one that fit under the body well was the Losi header.

[ross]

Originally posted by The King
There are big servo savers and little servo savers. What type do you reccomend for the GT?

Yea, like 1tuffRC10 said the small ones arent no good, I tried one and they turned my steering to slop, and I hardly had any steering. At the moment however Im not using any servo saver and I havent had any problems.

[ZootMan]

So all losi headers are an exact fit on the stock rc10 engines?
a few guys at the track are using losi shocks in their gts and they seem to be pretty smooth.

Anyone have t-maxx's? I would like to see some pics.
(once again, high fives will be awarded ;) )


No pulse- you might have a better chance selling that on a buy/sell/trade thread.

[The King]

Originally posted by NoPulse
Just seeing if anybody would be intrested in buying or trading something for a XTM racing "Baja Bullet" Elec. Stadium Truck.
This is brand new in the box RTR.
Sales for $180.00 Can read all about it here at this link Baja Bullet (http://www.hobbypeople.net/review/145630rcca.htm)
I do need a starter box, so that would be a good trade! Other wise, how much would ya buy it for?
Obviously "we" would never use this truck, but it would be a great starter truck for a younger brother or son.

Hey NoPulse
I think you may have better luck if you put your item here
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=226 Good luck:D

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Thanks for the info guys. King, I run the MIP steering with a large GS servo saver. The small ones are not strong enough to last. You will have to put a couple washers under each servo mount for clearance between the servosaver and the chassis. Kimbrough (sp) has a new servo saver out with a longer arm but I would bet it will not be strong enough to work very long.

Well then it looks like I will be getting the big servo saver then:D
Thanks Guys

[eman88]

If I could get a new FT kit for under 200 do you guys think i should do it?
THen an engine for 100-110ish. And i wiill just take the radio from my buggy i guess. :(

so would you guys buy a FT for 200?
do you think i could then sell it for 250?

[maddog0559]

I have heard that the Mugen rear exhaust works but haven’t tried it yet. The Losi hangs real low and scrapes on my GT.

[1tuffRC10]

Wow ross, you are BRAVE. You must have one GOOD servo on your steering.

[soslo]

What in the world are ya'll talking servo savers for? Do the RTR's come with one on the servo? Never paid any attention.
Get the Team/Factory Team servo saver and save some problems. :)

Thanks for the input on the rear exhaust headers everyone. :cool:

[ZAXXMAXX05]

i have an rc10gt for sale for 210$ if u would like to buy it from me write me at TerminatorZ@msn.com

[1tuffRC10]

maddog, what engine are you running? I am using a TR and it works great.

eman, yes and no.:D

soslo, we are talking about using the MIP zero maintence steering. I have been using it for over a year and have not replaced a part on it. Used a couple of servo savers though. That's a disposable part IMO. I have been told that it makes the truck slower in the corners but the way I drive, I can't tell. It makes the steering pretty much bullet proof. Even if you clean your truck like I do, which is not nearly enough!

[1tuffRC10]

Don't forget about spacing the servo up so the servosaver doesn't rub the chassis. When you get the parts in hand, you'll see what I mean. Maybe next project? Mount servo diffrently? Upside down maybe? Ummmm

[maddog0559]

1TufRC10 I am running the TR also. has a lot of power.

[Polk]

In my old RC car i had a charger that would plug into the transmitter and reciever and charge the batts while they were in there. Is this function availble on the Ace Jaguar radio system that comes with the RC10GT RTR Plus?

If not how do i go about charging my batts now? I have some BYD 800mAh NI-CADs. The charger that i used to plug into the transmitter/reciever was a Powertec 3 mode charger.

[The King]

Originally posted by ZAXXMAXX05
i have an rc10gt for sale for 210$ if u would like to buy it from me write me at TerminatorZ@msn.com

Take your ad over to the buy/sell/trade forum;)

[boricua racing]

FACTORY TEAM

[boricua racing]

FACTORY TEAM

[boricua racing]

:mad: :eek: :confused:

[trxstr1961]

nice ride, hope u have fun with it, mine down for awhile. needs engine rear, drive pins,receiver,pattery pack and on/off switch switch :(

[YZ167]

What starter box do you guys have? I was thinking about getting this one since it cheap and can start both 1/8 scale and 1/10 scale on and off road. Plus it has the 12 volt motor. My XTM starter box took a dump after about 6 months...
here is the link
:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUC2&P=7

[FatherSpeed]

Just about have my grandson's and my GT's ready to go. Both will need the engines broken in. He has a Rossi C12 that had a squeeze job done by OS Rocket and mine is a new OS .12 CV-R.
Both still have to have the linkages installed and I just got a new Hitec 645mg steering servo. I got it from ServoCity, that guy is really fast and has free shipping, excellent prices too. I have yet to master the driving of one of these things, hope with a little practice I can regain some of my youthful co-ordination. Whatever you do, don't get old. It ain't no fun. I want to thank all of you who have posted on this board for all the good tips.
I have one stupid question to ask. I took both engines apart and now I wonder if I got them together right. Does the oil hole in the con rod face the front or the rear of the engine. I put them in facing the front, can't see where they would be of much benefit facing the rear but I want to make sure.

[YZ167]

Also, I need a new flywheel. What do you recommend: stock, mip light or heavy. I would perfer the most consistant one in terms of idling.

[speedydave]

For better idling characteristics, you want a heavier flywheel.

[YZ167]

Any one use the MIP heavy flywheel or does everyone use stock?
My stock is wore out and I was considering getting the MIP one.

[super_maxx]

hey guys

i just broke in my new motor (picco):D :D :D

heres some pics

[trxstr1961]

nice setup u have there. i was just about to ask about the new 12 tr, but the pics tells the answer :D

[ross]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Wow ross, you are BRAVE. You must have one GOOD servo on your steering.


645MG nothing fancy, does the job well.

[1tuffRC10]

Ross, that is a good servo. It will do the job, and do it well!

trxstr, I don't believe that is a TR. Not an OS anyway, looks Pico. I use an Ofna starter box with the big motor. The left rear sits on the motor but that thing has enough power to crank the tightest engines.

YZ167, I run the TR with a heavy flywheel. The heavy flywheel does idle better and it takes a little of that awsome punch off the lower rpm's. Makes it easier to control all that power.

fatherspeed, that's the way the rod came out of my TR, and good luck and have fun!

maddog, my header hasn't drug yet and my truck has seen some wild landings and some rough tracks. Did you get the right one, not trying to be smart, just trying to help out another rc'er.

[1tuffRC10]

supermax, what kind of body are you using. Will it clear that header?

[trxstr1961]

is there a P/S version out of that type of mill :confused:

[ross]

1tuffRC10,

Ive only ever broke it once and that was because I used a screw that was to long to hold the servo saver on, and even then i got another one for free. :D

[1tuffRC10]

That's good ross. I never get that lucky:( . When I tear one up it's usually because it tried to drink too much nitro. LOL Good pit man needed, apply asap here.:D

[ZootMan]

my unce has been using a vented steel flywheel he made at his work and it seems to be working great for him.

you guys into nascar?if so, post your favorite drivers name.

Oh yeah, name your favorite rc car drives (that means not to include yourself ;) )

[The King]

Originally posted by ZootMan
my unce has been using a vented steel flywheel he made at his work and it seems to be working great for him.

you guys into nascar?if so, post your favorite drivers name.

Oh yeah, name your favorite rc car drives (that means not to include yourself ;) )

My favorite R/C driver is my 8 year old daughter. My favorite nascar driver is Richard Petty. :D

[super_maxx]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
supermax, what kind of body are you using. Will it clear that header?

The stock Factory team bodY

[1tuffRC10]

Does it push the body out or not. All the manifolds we tried did.

[ZAXXMAXX05]

yea it clers the header and thers a hole in the side for the exzost and its a stock body

[1tuffRC10]

I saw a pic of the Mugen header and didn't like that 90 degree, sharp, bend in it. What's the purpose of the rear exhaust if you're going to turn it sharp right out of the head?

XXMAXX, what kind of header is that on your truck?

[RCFAN]

i need some help i'm getting the wasp 12 offroad with round rear exhaust what header should i get i have a trinity truck rear maniflod on order but i want one that is in stock.does tower have any other ones that will work or that is better.

[trxstr1961]

got my NDS today, man does it look good. the dude built it, then sold it to me. its TOTALLY stock, but didnt come with body. no sweat, got a camero painted up for it:D now the question is: Finish it up and run it, or make it a show peice ??

[Draxx]

A quick question guys- I was doing a post run inspection on my new FT looking for the typical loose screws etc. and noticed it looks like a portion of the spur gear is rubbing on the rear
susp. arm. Is this typical with the stock spur gear? Wondering about shimming the spur gear shaft
in the tranny as is has some lateral play, at least enough to allow rubbing. Or perhaps a different brand spur gear(Robinson, Kinbrough)that is slightly thinner.
Any suggestion?

[1tuffRC10]

Draxx, if you have too much play in your drive shaft, you can shim it from inside the gear cases. I have seen that rub before and most of the time it's the rear arm mounts getting loose. But I would shim that drive shaft also.

[Wallis Racing]

Hey all,
i was just researching what engine to get next seeing as i have about all the fun i can have with my RB Concept X12, so i was looking at the X12T Rody.
i have pretty much decided this is what im going for, seeing as i have a mate with a X12T and its wicked, so the rody modified has only got to be better. I wont be getting it till maybe next school hols, which is still about 2 months away. anyways, i just have one question.

whats the deal with the venturi? why is it there? why wouldnt you just rip it out as soon as you got then engine? or would that make the carb too big? i know that is has to be a good thing seeing as it is only on the really high performance engines but i have no idea what the point of it is? is it just simply so you can change the carb size with out buying a whole new carb?
Thanks

Anyways
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by ZootMan
....you guys into nascar?if so, post your favorite drivers name......
I have to go with Kurt Busch, because he got his start with my bro in-law who runs three cars in the Bullring in L.V. :D

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/jms.html

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing


whats the deal with the venturi?....
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

They can actually be used as a tuning device to help set the engine's powerband in different areas. If you go with a smaller one, it will give the engine more top-end while a larger one will give you more low-end. Plus different racing organizations have different rules as to what the largest venturi can be.

[Mystracing]

Draxx - It's not unusual for the Stock spur to rub on the a-arm or a-arm mount, even when nothings loose. You can shim it in the tranny but be careful you don't get it too tight. I shimmed mine and it still rubbed, so I switched to the Kimbrough sour gears, they are thinner than the stock gear.

[ross]

Originally posted by Mystracing
Draxx - It's not unusual for the Stock spur to rub on the a-arm or a-arm mount, even when nothings loose. You can shim it in the tranny but be careful you don't get it too tight. I shimmed mine and it still rubbed, so I switched to the Kimbrough sour gears, they are thinner than the stock gear.

Arent the stock spur gears Kimbrough??? :confused:

[super_maxx]

heres my body:p :p

[Draxx]

1tuffrc10 and Mystracing, thanks for the advice.
Everything is tightened up so I may shim the tranny when I take it apart for cleaning or whatever. As I just put the truck together and still running it and making minor adjustments, I am not real excited about pulling the tranny out right now. I may very well try the thinner spurs. A trip to the LHS to compare stock to aftermarket will tell me if that will fix it.

Thanks again.

[1tuffRC10]

Drax, if everything is tight, then it shouldn't rub with the stock spur. But i would check the end play in that drive shaft because too much will hurt your top end. I've heard to install the pin in the drive shaft with the gap facing the diff cases. That should move everything back a touch. Not to sure about that one but it can't hurt to try. If nothing else just grind away a little of the rear arm mounts.

Ross, that's what they say on the back! You're right! Although the ones that don't have all the extra holes are machined, not just stamped.

Wallis racing, if you want all the power you can get, take that restrictor out. Break the engine in with it but unless you are really searching for traction, I would leave it out. Those things are just like a restrictor plate on a NASCAR engine IMO. Good parts for school busses!

[1tuffRC10]

super maxx, nice body but real race cars don't wear bowties! LOL:D

[Mystracing]

Juast a note if your comparing the gears. I'm not sure if the teeth area is thinner. The gear is offset toward the transmission more which moves the gear away from the arm about 1/16"

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
super maxx, nice body but real race cars don't wear bowties! LOL:D

I sure am glad I am consider a real racer with my F-150 body:D

[ross]

1tuffRC10,

Thanks for that, didnt know that about the ones with the holes are stamped and the ones without are machined. Personally, I think the RRP machined ones are the best, them are the only ones I use now. A friend from racing gave me about 10 of them when he gave up his GT for a XXXNT (oops, sorry for swearing) :D.


What type of shims do you lot use for your top shaft? Ive noticed mine as a bit of play in it.


Thanks

Ross.

[1tuffRC10]

King, I had a hunch you was a blue oval fan. LOL Go #6 and #97

Ross, CVD shims are a little big but something along that line with a smaller ID will work. I put them between the spacers and the bearing. Got any more friends like that in the Carolinas?

[1tuffRC10]

drax, you did put the spacers on the drive shaft? Don't mean to sound mean, just hate to see you tear up a gear box! BTW if it is a team built truck you may want to take it apart anyway. A friend bought one and it didn't have bearings in the gear box and it had no pad in the slipper!

[RCFAN]

i need some help i'm getting the wasp 12 offroad with round rear exhaust what header should i get i have a trinity truck rear maniflod on order but i want one that is in stock.does tower have any other ones that will work or that is better.

[1tuffRC10]

rcfan, I think we've been there and did that, but the Losi header should be in stock. My LHS has it anyway!

[Wallis Racing]

Thanks ATM and 1tuff,
i figure my X12 has too much lowend seeing as it puts itself on its back if im not careful on the gas, so when i get a X12T Rody, i will leave the venturi in because taking it out will prolly result in stupid lowend, heaps more the the X12, so yeah, ill leave it in. if i still have too much low end at this point ill just chuck my 17t CB on;)

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[trxstr1961]

if i read the L word on here ! more time, someones getting soap in their mouth! LOLOL:D

This is for gt's not that brand XYZ!

[ross]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
if i read the L word on here ! more time, someones getting soap in their mouth! LOLOL:D

This is for gt's not that brand XYZ!

Yep, they should add it to the language filter, and incase anyone hasnt seen the GT kicked ass agaist the ***** in the Dirt Nitro Challenge, results can be found here: Link to **** website (http://www.teamlosi.com/results/2003/nitrochallenge.htm)

[trxstr1961]

HOW DARE YOU linkthatXYZ site!
But its amazing, wonder why there was only 3 of their trucks there?? :D

[eman88]

is this a good deal?
http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3114824319&category=19168
please take out the spaces after each EBAY and copy it

[1tuffRC10]

Well people, watch out. I got myself a little puter virus yesterday. Opened mail that I thought was from another RC'er but it wasn't him. It terminated programs, lots of them. I think everything is okay now but.... If you get mail that has subject of congratulations or trying to get you to buy virus protection, delete it quick. BTW got the new rod in the TR and it's just like it was before. I sure hope it runs this good at the track Sunday.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Well people, watch out. I got myself a little puter virus yesterday. Opened mail that I thought was from another RC'er but it wasn't him. It terminated programs, lots of them. I think everything is okay now but.... If you get mail that has subject of congratulations or trying to get you to buy virus protection, delete it quick. BTW got the new rod in the TR and it's just like it was before. I sure hope it runs this good at the track Sunday.

Hey Tuff
Thanks for the heads up, Right now the only virus I have to deal with is the one that hit the KING family:(

[1tuffRC10]

Sorry about that. I hope you and your family get over it soon. I hate cold weather that's why I moved south last year!:)

[tjtracer]

i want to run a slide carb on my gt...if anyone could send me a pic on how the linkage should be set up to run a slide it would be very helpfull.....thank you very much... tjt_extreme@hotmail.com

[ross]

Originally posted by tjtracer
i want to run a slide carb on my gt...if anyone could send me a pic on how the linkage should be set up to run a slide it would be very helpfull.....thank you very much... tjt_extreme@hotmail.com


My throttle linkage is set up exactly as it said on the slide carb sheet that comes with the manual, however because Im running the Crezenci drum brake I am having real problems setting it up with a slide carb.



Ross.

[Draxx]

I think 1/16th would just about do it. I will try it, spur gears are cheap. Thanks.

[slaf]

Hi all

I just bought a OFNA 10257 starter box, does someone use this starter box with a 10GT ? What is the pegs setup ?? I've tried to adjusted pegs but I can set correctly...

[Mystracing]

ross - here's how I set my old GT up with a slide carb Crescenzi setup. I had to drill a hole through the shock tower and extend the linkage through it to keep the linkage aligned straight. There's another picture of it from the side on my web site (www below) under the "RC10GT" "Crescenzi Brake" section.

http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/html/ltop.jpg

[ross]

Mystracing,

Thanks alot, that is exacltly what I need to do, the problem I am having it because I dont have the linkage wire going through the shock tower like on yours causing the brake to rub on the spur gear at full throttle and on the slipper pad at full brake.


Thank again

Ross.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by eman88
.....is this a good deal?......

Well I wouldn't pay that much for it. I would probably top out at $175 -$225, and would have to really think twice about going over $175. Also he says only two quarts through the motor, but one has to wonder why the motor's out of the chassis . . . . anyway we picked up ours for $165, truck, OS engine, radio, and $225, same with a starter box.

Originally posted by slaf
I just bought a OFNA 10257.......

I have an older version, it will work fine.

I set three pegs so it goes through the "triangle" in the rear A-arm, and one to slide the chassis against up front. Be very patient and make sure to get it to line up exacltly right, if the doughnut hits the chassis at all it will bog down.

I use a 12V gel gel, available from any battery store, charges with a float charger. Do not use a car battery charger even at slow charge (2 amps = 2000 mah) the gel cells will burn up with anything more than 1500 mah.

You can also use two 6-cell packs in series instead. Check out this great article
http://www.rccaraction.com/rn/articles/ht_starterbox.asp

on tuning your starter box for how to hook up the batts.

[1tuffRC10]

Hey, I have an OFNA starter box that I bought used and it has a plastic "block" that fits around the rear bumper nicely. No need for pegs on the front. Not sure where it came from, but it works great.

[NoPulse]

Thinking of buying an AE starter box. Should I go 12V gel cell or 2 1500Ma Stick packs?
Whats a good charger for these batts. I want it to be able to charge my Rx pack too.

[need4madspeed]

How should i set up my gt for the most speed.

[need4madspeed]

wrong pic here is how my gt is set up . let me know how it looks

[Draxx]

1TUFFRC10- no, it is a Factory Team. I am going to look into a different spur first. I may have some very thin shims laying aroung though, and may consider that as well, to get rid of the minor play in the shaft.

[eman88]

let me upload pics of a truck a guy offered to sell to me for 200

this is what is has
trinity picco non pull engine .12 new
trinity picco pull engine without crank and carb, run 1/2 gallon
novarossi cx12 - P/S is shot
it was an rtr, but was upgraded
it has

new gladiator tires
new bearings throughout
Team Associated rear carbon shocktower
GPM front alloy shock tower
GPM alloy arms, front and back
Jr AM python radio on 75mhz
GPM Racing Blue bearing steering bellcranks
Hammad Ghuman alloy 3 degree arm mounts
GPM alloy tanny brace
mip cvds
Hammad Ghuman rear bulks
front bulks

boca bearings in the tranny
Hammad Ghuman steel idler
Hammad Ghuman ti topshaft

let me get the pics up he gave me

http://eman88.netfirms.com/RC10Overall.jpg
http://eman88.netfirms.com/RC10Rear.jpg
http://eman88.netfirms.com/RC10Front.jpg

[eman88]

sorry if the pics are a little big

and is there anything bad about the tub chassis?
what are the pros and cons of it compared with the newer chassis?

[slaf]

Old RC10GT tub chassis had problem with flexibility causing the spure gear to strip on jump landing.

I bought the AE chassis upgrade and it fixed my problem...

[eman88]

so would that be a good deal for 150?
the upgrade kit is 50

im just not sure about all this aluminium stuff
it isnt really necesary
i know it has good engines...
hmmm

[ross]

Originally posted by eman88
so would that be a good deal for 150?
the upgrade kit is 50

im just not sure about all this aluminium stuff
it isnt really necesary
i know it has good engines...
hmmm

Yeah, I still think its a pretty good deal, but I would try and get a bit lower, if you dont thats not a problem. About the aluminium, it will be fine for a while but expect it to wear quite quickly especially if hard bashing/crashing is your thing, if it hasnt already. This only applies to things like the suspension arms, hubs and knuckles all the other aluminium stuff will be fine, except you may bend the aluminium shock tower in a hard crash. You may want to replace the things I mentioned above with the stock parts or the RPM moulded plastic parts. That is just my opinion personally Im not a fan of aluminium to replace suspension parts but im sure other people with disagree. Everything else looks fine. Just make sure you get some type of protcetive box for the receiver.


Ross.

[eman88]

yea, im not too fond of the aluminium suspension arms
so do you think 150 would be a good deal?
im interested by this car because of the engines.
i would prob. put in a diff. radio

[1tuffRC10]

I hate to do this on the threads but I got a virus from someone on juno. Someone is sending me e mails, they say in subject about rc, but I don't recognize the mail addy. Got rid of the virus, just don't want to take any chances. If you are sending me the e mails, I am deleting them unless I recognize the name. Let me know Thanks.

Anyhow, aluminum is for pretty, that's about it! Also the tub chassis catches all the dirt and don't let it out.

[eman88]

yea, i think i might stay away from this truck depending on how low i can get the price. i guess i could always take an engine and then re ebay it.
people on ebay dont realize aluminum doesnt really do anything for performance, just adds weight.
what would you guys pay for this?
150?

[bubbastump]

concidering i got thr rtr -motor and rodio for 25 i would say about 145

[chickenmobilin]

Hey Bubbastump , I am the guy that you were talking to the other night at Hobbytown.
Anyone here running the WASP offroad? I have heard good things and was wondering if anyone could give me any feedback.

[atm92484_3]

I don't own one but I've seen a couple run in GTs and XXXNTs and they seem to do pretty good. Seems to have great power all across the band.

[eman88]

Originally posted by bubbastump
concidering i got thr rtr -motor and rodio for 25 i would say about 145


what???
are you saying you bought the rtr motor and radio for 25 bucks, so you would pay 145?

[soslo]

The Wasp and Collari are both ballistic. Just waiting to see how well they hold up here.
I got a Mugen to play with until then. :)

I agree w/Ross also. Aluminum braces are one thing, as they do help, but not for arms. The stock arms are very forgiving and way cheaper. Once aluminum bends, say goodbye. Everthing has a proper place.
Same goes for the fancy blue aluminum screws. They are too soft, and useless in most places.

[NoPulse]

yeah the stock arms are great!

[ross]

Originally posted by soslo
The Wasp and Collari are both ballistic. Just waiting to see how well they hold up here.
I got a Mugen to play with until then. :)

I agree w/Ross also. Aluminum braces are one thing, as they do help, but not for arms. The stock arms are very forgiving and way cheaper. Once aluminum bends, say goodbye. Everthing has a proper place.
Same goes for the fancy blue aluminum screws. They are too soft, and useless in most places.


Im not sure why Assocaited brand the blue aluminium screw kit that comes with the factory team kit a 'upgrade'.

[Wallis Racing]

Hey all,
Just wondering if any of you's know any old army tricks for removing striped set screws(grub screws), namely in the CVD department.

A while back i got some shiney CVD bones, cause the standards were bent to snot, but i was only able to get one CVD apart, so im running one straight shiney and one bent standard :( when i had 2 bent standards, the vibrations worked together, now only one side viabrates so it just not right, LOL so i figure its time to operate on the standard CVD.

So, i have tried putting the allen key in the hole with some super glue and letting it set, but the set screw is too striped for that to work, and i was going to dremel it apart, but the dremel doesnt seem to have a piece small enough to do it. i am starting to think im going to have to buy a 3.95 CVD hardware kit and a 9.95 axel and dremel the snot out of it, but i would first rather find an alternitive.

So, anyone know any other tricks?

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[1tuffRC10]

Try soaking them in acetone. That usually works but the shiny CVD's break. Not really sure why but everyone that I have talked to has said that.

[Wallis Racing]

1tuff,
Thanks, I will try that
Cant believe i never even thought of it:rolleyes:

I havent had any probs with my ONE shiney yet, LOL the standards bent after after 2 weeks and just kept getting worse and worse, to the point where they were making my GT vibrate apart, LOL. i have had the one shiney on for about 2 months or longer with no probs yet, but if it does break, i will get the HD shiney bones for the NMT. they are about 3mm longer, and are thicker just before the dogbone part, so they dont bent or break. actually, im not even sure if you can get HD ones anymore? but my mate had them on his EMT, and put them in his GT and they work mint, but like i said, i havent had any probs with my shineys yet. they will get a good test this weekend seeing as i am planning to do some more backflips and stuff before i get my new chassis.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[eman88]

I think i will just wait for another truck to buy. This has too much aluminium for my liking

[chachi]

to convert from pullstart to nonpullstart engine mounts, the manual indicates that the transmission mount/brace must be changed (top of page 7 in the manual). is there any reason for this?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by eman88
......i think i might stay away from this truck.....

ARE YOU GUYS F**ING CRAZY??? :D

Give me the contact, I'LL give him $200 for that setup.

Are you guys aware of how much the Picco alone goes for? That truck would easily bring $250 on eBay, hands down.

There is an aluminum tranny case there, bottom end for those is about $45.

I've broken stock bulkheads before on large jumps, my wife's with alum bulkhead just dances on by, and believe me she is trigger-happy and absolutely does not let up on jumps. :D

While the aluminum A-arms would have to go, I would easily drop two hundred on that truck.

As for the tub chassis, if you wanted to stay with it you can get a chassis brace that goes from the left front tranny mount, up and around the carb, and to the right front engine mount that virtually eliminates the chassis flex. It works great, but I indeed like the new team chassis better, that's what we did with my wife's.

Besides all that, if you look closely it has been well cared for and this is a good indicator that it is not a thrash-fest like most RC's you see on eBay, and that means it's a good gamble.

SERIOUSLY I would have no problem with this truck, if you don't buy it give me contact info in the user CP.

[ross]

Originally posted by chachi
to convert from pullstart to nonpullstart engine mounts, the manual indicates that the transmission mount/brace must be changed (top of page 7 in the manual). is there any reason for this?

I dont have my manual with me, so im not sure what your talking about but I never changed my transmission mount when i went from pullstart to non pullstart.

[eman88]

Originally posted by rocknbil
ARE YOU GUYS F**ING CRAZY??? :D

Give me the contact, I'LL give him $200 for that setup.

Are you guys aware of how much the Picco alone goes for? That truck would easily bring $250 on eBay, hands down.

There is an aluminum tranny case there, bottom end for those is about $45.

I've broken stock bulkheads before on large jumps, my wife's with alum bulkhead just dances on by, and believe me she is trigger-happy and absolutely does not let up on jumps. :D

While the aluminum A-arms would have to go, I would easily drop two hundred on that truck.

As for the tub chassis, if you wanted to stay with it you can get a chassis brace that goes from the left front tranny mount, up and around the carb, and to the right front engine mount that virtually eliminates the chassis flex. It works great, but I indeed like the new team chassis better, that's what we did with my wife's.

Besides all that, if you look closely it has been well cared for and this is a good indicator that it is not a thrash-fest like most RC's you see on eBay, and that means it's a good gamble.

SERIOUSLY I would have no problem with this truck, if you don't buy it give me contact info in the user CP.

ok
i think i will get it

[tjtracer]

hey guys ,,,how is it going,,,,,i am i bad need of a pipe for my truck,,,,,i am new to 1/10 and the truck i got came without a pipe....if anyone can help me ,,,,i will buy or trade ,,,,,just let me know what you have and what you want for it thanks,,

[1tuffRC10]

NMT? What kind of truck or car is that. LOL My turn to be a rc dummy. :D

tjtracer, the Losi pipe works great and is just over twenty bucks.

[NoPulse]

DAMN YOU GUYS! DAMN, DAMN, DAMN!
Why didnt any of you guys tell me to remove the carb restrictor before!
My freaking AE.15 is like 3 times faster! I dialed it all in @ 219F. This freaking this is dangerous to drive!
I love it!
:D

[Wallis Racing]

1tuff-
NMT = HPI Nitro MT

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)