Associated RC10GT Forum v5.0

[sanseric]

I am putting a 15 cv rx in my street force have it done on sat. I think the 21 is to strong for rc10 A .15 CVR will do fine I have a .12 in mine it smokes most cars i race.:D

[J_M_R]

I picked up some associated rubber sealed bearings for the clutch from my lhs yesterday, so hopfully they wont come apart. But i hit a tree with my rc10gt so wont be running untill i get the parts(broken a arm and rear arm mount).

[trxstr1961]

FINALLY after 3 hours i got my new(used) gt together as far as i can what im missing is the following:

complete slipper clutch
brake pad
dogbones/cvds (has one cvd in it)
nose brace tubes
front bumper

if anyone has any of these let me know if u dont need them! thank u:)

UPDATE!

got a set of rear shocks, and body mounts on it. now it needs a body also, since my rtr bodys dont fit. :(

[mrcthunderking]

I use to have an older rc10gt that melted spur gears once in awhile. I am thinking of buying the team built gt now. I'm just gonna bash, not race. Is the Robinson steel gear combo a good investment for me? Or, is there something bad about it?

thanks,

t-king

[atm92484_3]

I personally wouldn't get metal gears. Instead, invest in a Trinity TK1200 chassis brace (works on tub chassis only) and a RRP machined plastic spur gear.

[micro_man]

Hey guys,
Does the GT requre a certain starter box? I found that it wont fit mine. It might just be because i am using the pull start mounts. LMK.

thanks

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by mrcthunderking:
I use to have an older rc10gt that melted spur gears once in awhile. I am thinking of buying the team built gt now. I'm just gonna bash, not race. Is the Robinson steel gear combo a good investment for me? Or, is there something bad about it?

MRC do you really mean melted or stripped?
If they are MELTED, you have your gear lash too tight. When you adjust the engine mounting, make sure there's just a little looseness between the pinion and spur, spin it around and check it all the way around. You should *ALMOST* be able to slip a piece of paper between the gear teeth.

If you mean stripped, there's a discussion in this thread on some of the causes and solutions to this, the most common of which is the twist and flex of the older tub chassis:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35995&perpage=25&pagenumber=214

As for metal gears, the FAQ on associated's site makes a very good point. This is not a direct quote but it's close:

Gears strip for a REASON. If you strip a gear, you have a $4 part to replace. When you use a hardened metal or even aluminum spur gear, if it strips again, it is likely it will also damage the pinion on the clutch bell. You now have an additional $8 part to replace. It's best to stick with the plastic spur and find out the nature of the problem.

Originally posted by micro_man
Hey guys,
Does the GT requre a certain starter box? I found that it wont fit mine. It might just be because i am using the pull start mounts.

What starter box, and how doesn't it fit?

I have a 1/8 scale OFNA box, the one with the single big motor, and I had to put the motor in the cross-box position so it sticks out of the side and the doughnut goes with the length of the box. This causes the rear left wheel to be tight against the motor when the GT is in the right position. It's not quite right, but it works. We then got the smaller two-motor OFNA with my wife's truck, and by fiddling with the positioning tabs it fits perfectly.

By the way if you're new at all to this I'll say from my OWN limited experience getting the starter box set up for the GT is a bit of a pain, it has to be just right, but once it's right it rools. :)

Also if you have a pull-start flywheel, which is narrower than a non-PS, you'll not only have some trouble getting it to catch (because it's narrower, has less surface area against the doughnut) it can wear out the doughnut faster.

[micro_man]

No im not new to this. I have been in nitro rc for about 5 years. It is my first GT though. I went out and bought the MIP lightweight flywheel, but i havent checked it with the starter box yet. The box I have is the 1/10 scale ofna powerstart. It has 2 motors and the little power panel. So you are saying that the rubber donut is running parallel to the long side of the box right? Not across the center?

LMK
Thanks,
kurt

[ross]

Originally posted by micro_man
No im not new to this. I have been in nitro rc for about 5 years. It is my first GT though. I went out and bought the MIP lightweight flywheel, but i havent checked it with the starter box yet. The box I have is the 1/10 scale ofna powerstart. It has 2 motors and the little power panel. So you are saying that the rubber donut is running parallel to the long side of the box right? Not across the center?

LMK
Thanks,
kurt

I am using a pullstart engine with pullstart engine mounts and my starter box works great. The wheel on the starter box should be paralell with the starter box at lengh way.



Ross.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by micro_man
I went out and bought the MIP lightweight flywheel, but i havent checked it with the starter box yet......So you are saying that the rubber donut is running parallel to the long side of the box right? Not across the center?

Ross is correct, spin along the LENGTH of the box. If it's a "universal" box you can bolt it in either way, along the length works for GT's. Yours is the better version of my wife's - same thing w/o the panel. You should be able to unscrew the whole motor/doughnut bracket and turn it 90°.

One word though, no matter what people say about the MIP flywheel I hate trying to start an engine with one of those little buggers! We've got two of them, the only one that's mounted is on my wife's GT, and man it's hard to get it to get fuel up to the engine and start. The "ribbing" on the edge is a lot smoother than the stock flywheel and it's really hard to get a grip on it.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Ross is correct, spin along the LENGTH of the box. If it's a "universal" box you can bolt it in either way, along the length works for GT's. Yours is the better version of my wife's - same thing w/o the panel. You should be able to unscrew the whole motor/doughnut bracket and turn it 90°.

One word though, no matter what people say about the MIP flywheel I hate trying to start an engine with one of those little buggers! We've got two of them, the only one that's mounted is on my wife's GT, and man it's hard to get it to get fuel up to the engine and start. The "ribbing" on the edge is a lot smoother than the stock flywheel and it's really hard to get a grip on it.

im running the MIP heavy wieght flywheel and mine starts fine.im also using the Ofna blue 1/8 scale starter box,the one with 1 motor and a 12v battery

[Jester]

Hey everyone. I need some help. I just got an RC10GT RTR+, and I was able to get 1 and 1/2 tanks thru before it stripped the spur gear!!! I went and got 2 more gears just to be safe, and I got another tank and 1/2 thur, and it ate up another. Now, between the first and the second gears I adjusted the brake linkage so that the drag wouldn't be so bad, but that didn't seem to make a difference. It was running fine, and all of a sudden the RPM's shot thru the roof, and I knew that another gear was gone. Has anyone else had this problem? WHat can I do? I had this problem with a Nitro Rush, but have never heard of this with an RC10GT. I haven't even been able to drive this thing yet!! Grrrrr I ordered the Robinson Racing Steel Spur gear and Clutch bell, but what can I do to solve this problem before they get here?? Thanks to all.

[J_M_R]

Make sure the gear mesh is right. Also, make sure that the screws holding the engine to the mount, and the screws holding the mount to the chassis are tight. I have only stripped two spur gears on my gt and i have had it for 8 months now. They stripped because the screws holding down the engine came lose.

[Jester]

Okay, I'll check them. I was going to go thru and check everything tomorrow anyway. It just bums me out, cux I took it out of the box, thru some batts. in it, and some fuel, and this is what I get. LOL Thanks again. Later....

[micro_man]

Okay I got it going.

I like the mip flywheel alot. It works perfect.

I am having some trouble with engine tuning.....I have an os 12 cvr. I put it to factory settings, then when i start it, it idles fine for as long as i want it too. Then when I give it a little throttle it just instantly dies. It doesnt change engine noise or anything....it just cuts off. Does any one know what the problem could be? The other thing is, the idle seems kind of high. I Checked the gap for the throttle opening and it is just about exactly .5-1mm gap.

Are these signs of rebuild time or what? How much do os piston/sleeve sets cost?

LMK
thanks

[micro_man]

WEll,
I have done some investigating. when i let it idle with the air filter off. It made me realize that there is something wrong with the carb. WHen the engine cuts out like i was explaining earlier, a litlle poof of unburnt gas comes out of the carb. Do i just need to clen the carb real good or what?

lmk

[atm92484_3]

It sounds like your engine is actually too rich. Try leaning it a little bit and try restarting it.

[DirtKite]

You may want to try some thread lock on those engine mount screws. I'm suprised AE didn't do that already... :confused:

[DirtKite]

Here’s a little story. I bought the RTR truck (not the +) a couple a years ago. I got it for fun and just bashed it around a lot... stripped a couple of those plastic steering servo gears and scratched up the body and chassis pretty good after properly breaking in the engine, etc.
So the wife and I decided to go out to the WA coast one weekend and in those days I had the GT in the trunk of the car all the time. Only this time it was accidental that the GT was along for the trip... well sort of.
Long story short, I ended up taking the GT out on the beach. Now I know this isn't a good idea and since I had also accidentally brought along all my cleaning stuff, I figured what the hell. Anyway this is one of those beaches that you can drive on (legally), and I was having a grand ole time when all of a sudden the radio picked up some interference and the car took a plunge into the Surf. Oh, it was nasty! The car was about 20 or 30 yards from me and a wave or 2 washed completely over it before I got to it. When I did get to it I picked it up and watched as the brown, salty, sandy water streamed out of the exhaust pipe. I thought, “will this be the end of this little car?”
I went back to the hotel and started disassembling and cleaning: read lots of WD40. I didn't spend too much time with it because I’m feeling a little pressure from the wife at this point... after all we are taking a little weekend away here. So I did the best job I could without getting locked out of the room.
Once I got home I spent the better part of 3 hours cleaning out the internal engine parts, etc. Lots of sand and water. I thought I would never get it all out.
The next day, to my surprise, it fired right up and ran like a charm (until I overheated it about 3 weeks later). So, I just put it away and thought I’ll get it running again someday.
Tonight I just finished putting a new AE .15 engine on it. I've also upgraded to ball bearings all around, MIP CVDs, and a metal geared steering servo. I plan to start breaking in the engine next weekend. Man, I feel like a new kid again :D

[rocknbil]

This topic mayget moved, see the forum rules . . . but at any rate . . .

So let's suppose the engine bolts are NOT slipping and you have adequate gear lash. When is this happening, on a jump? You know of course if you stay on the throttle while you're in the air that's one of the best ways to strip a spur, right? When you go airborne you should make sure you stay off the stick when it touches down - there's little chance that the engine/clutch will be spinning at the same speed as your ground speed and that's enough to strip out a spur. When you're off the stick the clutch disengages enough to spin free when you touch down.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by DirtKite
......I didn't spend too much time with it because I’m feeling a little pressure from the wife at this point...

Pressure with what, a FRYING PAN? LOL!!! I'm surprised she let you take it along!


......Tonight I just finished putting a new AE .15 engine on it......Man, I feel like a new kid again :D

Now THAT

Is what this hobby is supposed to be about.

Are you still married? :D

(I can hear it now. "Either that stupid car goes or I go."

Man I miss her. LOL!!)

[trxstr1961]

where di u get the A.E 15 at and how much was it, since im needing a new one:confused:

[low_ridah10]

is simply letting off the gas enough?? or do you have to put on the brakes too?? and also is it ok to have the throttle on while in the air as long as you dont land with the throttle on?

[atm92484_3]

Whether you let off or give brake really depends on how much adjustment you want. I've found that just letting off is normally enough to bring the nose down, but I also have a little dragbrake dialed into my truck. When you're in the air, I wouldn't mash the throttle and over-rev the engine, but its okay to give it a little gas. I would reccomend letting off just intime for landing though (it won't be as hard on the drivetrain and the truck will land and steady out better anyways).

[DirtKite]

yeah we're still married, ove the years we've gotten pretty good at puttin up with each other + she's a great gal. I've been lucky in that regard.

rocknbil, I think you're on to something there... jumping and landing with the throttle open probably would strip the spur gear. I've never stripped one, but i think i've broken just about everything else before :o

trxstr1961 I got the new AE thru the AE engine replacement policy. you should have one if you bought the AE engine. you simply return the old engine (if it's not running anymore) and they will replace it for $70 + shipping (there's a number to call on the paper). If you've lost the paper you can print it from Team Associated's website or was it AE's website... anyway it's one of those.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by low_ridah10
is simply letting off the gas enough?? or do you have to put on the brakes too?? and also is it ok to have the throttle on while in the air as long as you dont land with the throttle on?

There's actually two topics here, potential spur stripping and landing attitude. To prevent spur stripping yes, letting off is enough. This idea is that the clutch disengages (or at least is not in full lock) when you touch down so that the wheels can get up to ground speed before you nail the throttle again. If you time it right it won't even skip a beat.

The second is aerial attitude, how it's coming in for the landing. You use "blips" on the throttle, which actually uses the mass of the wheels as leverage, to adjust. If you're starting to nose in, a little blip on the throttle will help raise the nose. If you're starting to tail-in (a little is good, but don't land on your battery pack!) a little brake should tip the nose down. in either case, leave the throttle at dead neutral the precise millisecond it touches down. It doesn't take much, you don't need to slow down, coast, or go dead, just a quick lift for that one millisecond . . . whoosh . . :D

Originally posted by DirtKite
... jumping and landing with the throttle open probably would strip the spur gear.

It comes right form the AE site and I've only replaced ONE spur gear in 6 months, and that's because I popped an e-clip on the clutch!

(Fortunately for me my wife is also into RC, her GT is all tricked in purple anodized hopups and is sweeter than mine!)

[choops]

how loose do you guys set the slipper clutch? Ran truck first time last night. Spins tires too much. If too loose will it melt the spru gear?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by choops
how loose do you guys set the slipper clutch? Ran truck first time last night. Spins tires too much. If too loose will it melt the spru gear?

I'm presuming you meant the traction control clutch on the tranny, not the clutch on the clutchbell/pinion.

It depends on how you drive and traction conditions.

My rule of thumb is, whatever surface I'm on, from a dead stop I nail the throttle to full, I should get only a moderate tossing of dirt and the clutch should fully engage within 20 feet max. I drive it around the track and measure the slip and performance on varions areas - hard, soft, or bumpy - and adjust for that range on the average all around.

If it's too loose it's more likely to heat up at the slipper plates and tranny and cause damage there. It will be obvious though, you'll be throttling like mad and it won't go anywhere.

[Soya]

Wow, 220 pages! I'm kinda bored, I think I'll look through them all:)

[toddzilla]

is there anywhere i can find an exploded view of the stealth tranny diff? i've got a used gt and don't have a manual.. i had an rc10 years ago and i think this diff is missing some internal components..

[baneonrt]

Hello, I've been lurking for a while (I've read the entire thread) but just now got my GT running so I figured I'd post about it. It started out as a circa '98 or so tub chassis Team truck (kit number 7072). I've since updated it with the factory team chassis kit and a bunch of other associated and other misc parts. I'm using an Airtronics MX-3 radio system with an Airtronics 94102 servo for throttle/brake and a Hitec HS-5645MG Digital servo for steering duty.

Here are a couple of pictures:

http://steve.baneon.org/misc/rc10gt/quarterviewbody.jpg

http://steve.baneon.org/misc/rc10gt/topviewnobody.jpg

I plan on mostly bashing with it along with some very novice racing at a couple of the local tracks. Planned upgrades include an O'Donnell headsink, titanium turnbuckles and hinge pins, and a faster throttle/brake servo. Any suggestions on other must have upgrades?

Comments, suggestions welcome :)

Steve

[BinaryAvoidance]

Aluminum engine mounts, chassis, a few other things. Titanium turn buckles. Graphite shock towers. XXL Novak receiver. Metal gearded servos. NovaRosi .12 engine.

Its real nice.

Anyone have any opinions or ideas on what i should or could do to make the car better. Or things to check to make sure its working good.

Ps: Already have a T3 team.....

[r/c junkie 287]

r these trucks really good im gonna buy a used 1 with new crank and piston sleve rtr for $150 is just he basic rtr version is that a good deal?

[toddzilla]

need more info junkie.. but they are very good trucks. might be a good deal but i'm done buying used nitro... its not worth it unless you see the car running in my opinion..

[Insane Rival]

OK sorry to sound like a begger, but im 12 years old, cant do chores/lawn work/etc. money doesnt come easy. i have a used GT my uncle had in his attic. Anyways, does anyone have a stock rtr heatsink they could send me???? sorry to ask but i love my gt and i cant get the 20 bux

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by toddzilla
is there anywhere i can find an exploded view of the stealth tranny diff? i've got a used gt and don't have a manual.. i had an rc10 years ago and i think this diff is missing some internal components..

the 10T, T2, and GT trannies are all identical except the t2 and GT have a bigger diff gear, rings, and outdrives. The best I could find is the parts list for the T2 here:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/catalogs/cat10t2x.pdf

If that's doesn't work I'll scan you one tonight form my manual, I don't know if the GT man, has an exploded but the 10T does.

[rocknbil]

BTW here's a modest posting (small pic, these forums are already overloaded!) of my and my wife's GT's, see more pics and specs at:

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

[bad viking]

Hi, i am, gonna paint a new GR10GT FT, and i need some inspiration!!!


Please send some pictures yo me on this address: jlhustad@hotmail.com

R/C Rules!!!

[bad viking]

Mohahahaha

[popee]

nothing special, but didnt take too long to do and was simple to do:

http://www.j00.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Truck%203.jpg

http://www.j00.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/3_cars2.jpg

http://www.j00.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/xxx.jpg

http://www.j00.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/GT2.jpg

Popee

[OldskoolGT]

baneonrt,

Since you plan to race, I would reccomend captured ball ends for the both ends of the rear turnbuckles, and the steering turnbuckles ( just the end connected to the steering arms).

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by toddzilla
is there anywhere i can find an exploded view of the stealth tranny diff?

Here you go Todd, but it is 119k and I didn't want to post it here so you might want to right-click this link, select Save Target to Disk, and look at it from your local computer, it's pretty big so you can see all the detail.

None of my GT manuals have an exploded view, this is from the 10T. As you know it's the same tranny, different diff gear size.

What possible internal parts could it be missing?

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/images/rides/stealth.gif

WHOOPS link all fixed . . .

[toddzilla]

second link isn't working..

i remember when i had a 10t that the long bolt that goes through the center had a small washer with a few balls around it, you put some grease or whatever on it and put the bolt through and tightened it down. when i took apart the diff i have now, it just had the bolt going through and the locknut on the other side.

the truck goes fine for about 15-30 feet then the diff loosens up and just spins without any forward motion...

could i have possibly put the diff in backwards? (lock nut on the wrong side?)

thanks for the help.

i need to get this fixed i'm selling it this weekend lol

[Oriontool]

Need some advice. I have the RTR Plus. Recently did some upgrades(CVD's, Spur Gear, and so on). I cannot get it to idle. It constantly dies. I have set it back to factory specs for the idle and carb needles. The engine is broke in. Can I get any suggestions on tuning specs?

Thanks!

[Widget]

I was naieve to think that because I have been in moto-X, auto brackets, and touring, that I would be able to enter this hobby with expertise. Heck, I am starting all over. And what's worst, the shop down the street has very little expertise in Nitro cars/trucks. Although they don't tell you that. But you can tell. When you ask a question, the owner goes to a catalogue and tries to bllsht you into thinking they know what they are talking about.

I just bought a Factory team RC10 GT from Ebay. I think I got a deal based on retail prices of the parts included, but in reading through some of the posts here, I can tell I am in the right place to beef up my RC education. Below is a list of what came with the truck:

OS CVR engine
HiTEC Lynx 3D with synth module in TX
HiTec Rx with channles, 66,70,80,82 crystals
Futaba servos;9101 throttle, 9404 steering
nicad rx pak
nicad tx pak
charger
MIP boost bottle
hardened steel Idler gear
MIP 4-n-1 clutch
MIP Zero maintenance ball bearing steering kit
Aluminum steering throttle servo mounts
Trinity transmission brace

Is there any comments on this setup? Being green sux.
:rolleyes: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[Widget]

I just bought a Ofna true start universal starter box. When I line up the wheel to the fly wheel, the RC10gt is off center of the box to the right. This makes it so I can't put the guide pins in the right side of the box. Does anyone here have any suggestions?

[toddzilla]

i know how you feel widget.. i raced real cars for a long time before i decided recently to get into nitro r/c .. i read everything i can get my hands on and i'm finding out that most of the concepts are universal.. with the exception of tuning an engine without a conventional fuel/ignition system (compared to full-scale vehicles) your truck sounds pretty nice.. i got screwed on my rc10 gt i picked up off ebay , but i got tons of extras with it so i ended up doing ok.. now i bought a monster pirate and am selling my gt this weekend..

anyway this is the best resource i've found for getting information about ANYTHING r/c related.

[low_ridah10]

Does anyone know what would be causing my clutch bell bearings to be going on me? In 2 weeks they fell apart on my 2 times. They are dynamite red seal bearings and they just seem to fall apart. I dont have any idea what would cause it. Any help would be great because it is getting annoying! thanks

[jnegrx]

widget
I have almost the same stuf in one of my GTs but check if you have a servo saver horn in your steering servo because the mip zero mant. replaces the stock servo saver. If your servo is metal geared then its not such a problem but if it's plastic then consider a metal geared servo and a servo saver just to be safe. I also have the ofna box and i have no problems with it, yes the pins are all to one side but it starts ok. I was thinking of making a top plate so the chassis would be more presicely centered but it's not necesary.

toddzilla
That screw with the little balls is the thrust bearing of your diff. If you don't have the little balls then your dif will not work and loosen. Go to your LHS and get a thrust bering rebuild kit then your problem will go away. Also if you put the dif backwards it will get loose but i think that this is not your main problem.

Low_ridah
do you let the engine cool down after a tank of fuel or do you just refuel and keep going? I have never damaged a bearing of my GTs(lucky i guess). But the number one cause of bearing failure is Heat. If you can, let the engine cooldown after every two tanks, ofcourse not if you are racing. But if you are bashing or practicing then let the engine rest(it's better for every piece of your truck).Try the ones AE makes for the factory truck, never had a problem. Also if you over tighten the bearing it gets deformed and wont last. Hope this helps.

[popee]

I thought it was better to keep the engine running as it does not have to go through thermal stress everytime it heats up and ools down.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by toddzilla
second link isn't working..

DOY!! Sorry, it was WAAaaaYYY late and I was in a hurry, try it again, I edited it and it's correct.

Yes, the thrust beating consists of the bolt, two hardened steel washers, and SIX (not 4, not 5!) ball bearings. Put one washer on the bolt, slather up the washer with black grease, slide on the other washer, makes sure it's all greased up well, then slide the whole thing into the outdrive. The exploded view tells all.

Originally posted by Widget
....Below is a list of what came with the truck:
.... MIP boost bottle


Sounds like a great ride, have fun! MY only comments are the boost bottle and the steering setup. I hear the boost bottles are basically worthless, take it or leave it. Some say they help smooth out the idle . . I saw no difference and plugged the hole.


MIP Zero maintenance ball bearing steering kit

OK many people will argue this but I don't like these much. I always rip them out and return to stock, here is why:

The 10T and GT trucks put a lot of stress on the front tires and hence the steering servo. When I first started with 10T trucks, I had a problem with push on big sweeping turns - it wouldn't dig in and slid higher and higher on the track until I either let off the juice or hit the pipe. For the longest time I thought the prob. was traction. The owner of one of the tracks I was at said he was watching my truck and when I hit a turn hard the wheels were straightening back out, my servo was too weak.

So I get a S9404 111 oz/.11 sec all metal gear steering servo up front, problem went away, now I have to sometimes turn down the D/R on the radio to keep from oversteering.

NOW . . . with the MIP BB steering setup you have to use a servo saver on the servo. The resistance of these are set and you have no control over when they "give" on a hard bump. I found this irratic and difficult - in reality you just never KNOW when your servo saver is giving up steering. Additionally, the original steering setup is smooth enough. I see no reason at all to require BB's in my steering and find the control over when my servo save slips much more important.

Already having it in your truck I wouldn't take it out, but that's the only things I see, have fun!

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by low_ridah10
Does anyone know what would be causing my clutch bell bearings to be going on me?

I use the dynamites, they're cheaper and also because I had clutch problems at first.

Very important: without starting up the truck, turn on the radio and check to see that the wheels spin free. Are you getting a little brake at idle? This could do it. If you have brake at idle you've likely got the idle set high to compensate, causing the clutch to engage, causing the bell to heat . . .

MIP clutch or stock teflon shoes? I would imagine the teflon shoes would run a little cooler if the above is the case . . .

Review your setup, make sure there's not some extra slop somewhere. If the clutch bell a stock or aftermarket, does it fit right?

My problem was not the bearings but I couldn't seem to keep the e-clips on. :)

[rc10gtisthebest]

Micro_Man,

How is the gt? then engine only had about 2 gallons on it. I have heard of a CV-R lasting as much as 5.

-Todd

[toddzilla]

thanks rocknbil, that helps alot, i knew there was something missing.. not bad for assembling my original stealth diff back when they first came out.. sometimes my memory freaks me out :D

[xxxkat]

Hey rocknbill whats up,used to talk to you on a different site,I do think your right on the mip steering,I had one,went back to stock,I just got rid of my losi and got an associated gt,what servos should I run on this truck,I HAD used hitechs but way to many problems,I bought the truck used no motor,I just bought a mugen mt12(nova).

[baneonrt]

There was some talk on the last page about not being able to find an exploded view of the GT. Here is what I found on the Associated site:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/catalogs/drawing_gt.pdf

Hope this helps...

Steve

[Widget]

Todzilla,Jnegrx,Rocknbil the rest, thanks for the input. I'm happy I found this thread. Hey Baneort, that is a good look'n crowd pleazr paint job. Simple, but looks thick and smooth.

[Jamie]

low_ridah10,
The Dynamite red seals can't take the heat. Get the AE bearings and your problems will be over. One day when I get some time I am going to see if I can adapt the clutch from my Nitro Rustler to my GT. It has a far superior bearing system that lasts 4 times as long as the little and expensive GT flanged bearings and you can use the cheaper Dynamite red seals.

[ross]

While we are talking about bearings: The bearings in my rear hubs have just about had it, and I want to replace them. I would replace them with the AE ones but I have found that the seals fall out of the AE ones very easy. The seals have only fell out the rear hub ones, my clutchbell, tranny, front wheel bearings are all in great condition.

Which bearings do you reccomend that will work well in the rear hubs but have more durable seals than the AE ones?


Cheers


Ross.

[jayskiia]

hey guys, i just bought a gt plus rtr. i am thinking of buying a proline or trinity body for it in the near future, but there seem tobe two options....one for the gt and one for the rtr, since the plus has the gt chassis i am thinking that would be the correct one for my truck, right?

[baneonrt]

Thanks for the compliment Widget. I originally wanted to do a silver/black/blue theme but decided on solid blue for a basher body.

Has anybody else had a hard time getting the Crowd Pleazer body to fit? I had to extend the front body posts over 1/4" to get the front shock towers to stop rubbing and to make the bottom of the body parallel with the chassis.

jayskiia, yes, you want any body that will fit the Team and Factory Team GT's.

Steve

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by xxxkat
Hey rocknbill whats up,used to talk to you on a different site.........

Oh you mean that one with three letters where the posters care more about talking dirty than RC? That's not why I go to an RC site . . . :) LOL

....what servos should I run on this truck,I HAD used hitechs but way to many problems,I bought the truck used no motor,I just bought a mugen mt12(nova).

Well I suggest FAST on the throttle and if you can afford it STRONG, and STRONG on the steering and if you can afford it FAST.

Fast on the throttle because if you're at full throttle and want to hit the brakes, it has to travel all the way from the full throttle to the brake position. When I roll my GT with my foot and a .33 speed servo, it traveled 6 feet before stopping. Imagine how far it would go on the track! If you can afford a strong one, that will help with the throttle return spring.

Strong on the steering because there's an immense amount of pressure on the tires as stated in my previous post, you need a strong servo to hold them in position. Fast will make it more expensive.

The best servo's I've found for BOTH are the Futaba S9402's, they are all metal gears, ball bearings, and boasts a 111 oz/in strength and .11 sec speed at 60º. Unfortunately they are expensive as hell. For the throttle get at LEAST a 50 oz/in servo with a transit speed under .15, for the steering at least 70 oz/in or greater, speed ??? Whatever you can afford.


baneonrt
Here is what I found on the Associated site: ...


How the heck did you find that, I looked all over for it! COOL!


Originally posted by Jamie
The Dynamite red seals can't take the heat. ...

Well he's right that AE's are of higher quality, but I will say I've been using the cheapo Dynamites without a problem, if you're having an overheating prob I'd find out why . . . most common is getting a little brake at idle or forward . .


Originally posted by ross
The bearings in my rear hubs have just about had it, and I want to replace them...Which bearings do you reccomend that will work well in the rear hubs but have more durable seals than the AE ones?

I'm going with cheap on this one because other bearings are so expensive! What's going to be worse: a cheap bearing that you replace often or an expensive one you still need to replace? I got 10 Dynamites for $27 or so on Tower Hobbies . . the AE ones were way more expensive.

Also not mentioned is if you're on 1/4" or 3/16" axles, I have heard a great deal of talk about the 3/16" axles being better because the bearing is heavier and can handle more abuse. Both my GT's have 1/4" axles and I don't have too much trouble with wheel bearings, but run MIP CVD's and am a little careful to make sure the tires are balanced and there's no major wobble. Look into that; your bearings are going out for a reason.

[dog8spam]

bil, I use the Duratrax bearings and 1/4 axles, to me Assocated can't make bearings so good that would make it worth to chip in another $60.
Viking
I am painting a body now. I made some sweet decals on this vinyl machine the tech lab at my school had. If your still young enough ask around. There are CDs full of fonts and graphics witch include flames and scallops. Also look into Allclad II chrome. That stuff is amazing.

[Widget]

Baneort,

Regarding your crowd pleazr body not fitting; did you get the GT? After seeing your body, I went out and had to have one too (fk, that sounded quite ***) And sure enough I bought me a crowd pleazr, I did not have the guts to start cutt'n though. Too much goin on today. But should I take it back? I do not want to get it done just to find out that it doesn't fit.

Widge

[Widget]

I guess you can't say GAAAAAY here.

[xxxkat]

Hey rocknbill thats why Im not on that site anymore.How much money on the 9402s ?

[Wallis Racing]

Hey yall,
was out BMX track bashing with my RB X12 powered FTGT today, i was with Juls(from 'Juls creations' @ rcmovies.com) and he has a X12 FTGT same as mine. well, we hit the jumps and we were getting sick air! he was having some glitching probs, so while he was trying to sort it out, i went and started to do some wicked jumps, i found a jump that had a wicked kicker and just floored it over the jump, but the rear end kicked over and i landed upside down, but i got wicked air, and i yelled over to juls, "hey, watch this"! then i hit the jump again flat out and jammed the brakes on in the air, and it did a perfect front flip, LOL so then he ran and got the camera and i tried to do it like 10 time on cam, but it didnt work ever again, LOL just my luck:rolleyes:
Then, after this he got his GT sorted out and he started doing backflips, LOL , and it was doing them soo easy. the jumps were like 2+ meters high, so we were launching about 4m high and just hammereing the gas in the air. i was filming him and he did backflip after backflip :rolleyes:
well eventually he stoped so i grabed my GT (which i was haveing heaps of probs with after crashing 10 atempted front flips, LOL) and i ran over to the backflip jump and just floored it over the jump and it did the sweetest, most perfect backflip youve ever seen, and i looked over to juls, and the camera was pointed at the ground cause he wasnt ready yet!!! AARRRGGGG! he missed my wicked backflip, LOL so i tried it again, and it kinda didnt work, it did a 180 1/2 flip and landed right on the rear tower upside down and stalled on impact, but no damage.

but by now my car was like falling to bits, LOL where the rear tranny brace screws into the tranny, it kinda cracked and riped the casing apart, LOL and my rear bulk head is cracked and my engine is running cr*p, so i gave up and just kept fliming juls. he did some more backflips and over did one, so he did a 1 and 1/2 flip, and then he got it into his head that he could do a double back flip:rolleyes: so he went flat out over the jump and did, 1/2....1...1 1/2....1 3/4....BANG! landed right on the right rear wheel and brake an arm and bent his CVD about 90* LOL, game over, everyone go home, LOL.

but it was a good day, we spant about 4 hours at the track, and got 15min of footage, LOL most of which is some of the best crashes youve ever seen, LOL

well, i have some major wrenching to do to get my GT up to race standards for next weekend:( so i better go start now, LOL

anyways,
Mad Man

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing


but by now my car was like falling to bits, LOL where the rear tranny brace screws into the tranny, it kinda cracked and riped the casing apart, LOL and my rear bulk head is cracked and my engine is running cr*p

anyways,
Mad Man



what tranny brace and rear bulkhead are you running?i was always breaking the the rear bulkhead,ripping the tranny case apart.i put the trinity tranny brace on mine and stopped ripping the case apart but still broke the bulkhead,i put the RPM bulkhead on it and stopped all of those problems.i know it fixed the problems cuz i got run over by a monster pirate and didnt break anything.

[ritchies rc10gt]

im am currently running an OS .15 CV HYPER with slide carb.i like the engine but now i need something faster and will last longer between rebuilds.i need an engine that will be able to handle being geared fairly high (62t spur,18t CB)but still have enough lowend power to get around corners and back up to speed fairly quick without overheating.the high gearing isnt nessacery but would be great since i like to be geared high for the straights.price really isnt an issue as long as its under $500.00(my womans already mad cuz im gonna spend $1000.00 on a monster pirate and some hop ups for it :D )i also want to be able to bash around with it.


also,i am thinking about buying another rc10gt but i want the kit so i can built it,i need something to do this winter at night.wich kit is better value?

[Insane Rival]

at xmas, what would be a good engine to buy? i need somethin not too hard to tune, but fast...no racing, just bashing

[atm92484_3]

I'd consider a 15 CV-R. It will over-power a GT, but you won't be screwing around trying to tune it.

Ritchies, go for the FT (I think this is what you're asking) since it has the titanium turnbuckles, graphite shock towers, and uno shock shafts (thats atleast another $100 to put those onto the car at a later date).

[ritchies rc10gt]

ok thanx ATM.

the 15 cvr is ABC right?i like the cv but i dont like ABN construction

[atm92484_3]

Yup ABC.

[DirtKite]

Is anyone else using a the MIP onboard Temp prob? I'm curious about what a safe temp range is on the .15 AE engine with one of these. Currently i have mine positioned on the bottom fin slot of the stock AE head with the probe 90 degrees to the right (when looking from the rear of the truck) of the exhaust port.
So far the highest temp I've seen is around 205 F.
Thnx

[Sorchy10GT]

the temp probe is not that accurate my frend has a temp gun and a temp probe and the temp probe read 20 degres cooler than the gun . to save money radeo shack sells a temp gun for about 50 bucks and is gust as accurate as the high $ temp guns that are $80 and way up from there

[Sorchy10GT]

I know some people are runing the the O'Donnel head on a cv .12 or.15 how much beter/cooler did it run.:confused:

[xxxkat]

I thought it made a big enough difference to be worth the money,I also use a Paris turbo pipe(ring).I did notice a drop in temp.(about 30 deg.)with just the change of the head,I did not change any carb. settings to see if the claim of temp.reduction is true.In my case,on my motor,with my settings,it was true. O'Donnell is a class act. ;) :)

[low_ridah10]

Originally posted by rocknbil


"Very important: without starting up the truck, turn on the radio and check to see that the wheels spin free. Are you getting a little brake at idle? This could do it. If you have brake at idle you've likely got the idle set high to compensate, causing the clutch to engage, causing the bell to heat . . . "


So are you saying that at idle my car shouldnt move forward?? Because when i start my car it goes forward at idle speed.


"MIP clutch or stock teflon shoes? I would imagine the teflon shoes would run a little cooler if the above is the case . . ."


Im Pretty sure its the stock clutch. I bought the car used and dont know much about it.

[coolracer47]

I have a Question. When my gt is sitting at idle is it supposed to move forward? Will it hurt the clutch? Also would a O.S. .15 cv-r be a good choice for a engine to drop in. Thanks

[jcnmt]

hey cool racer where do you race at?

[dog8spam]

Coasting at idle wont hurt your clutch cool, I let my car coast at idle and barely tap the brakes to keep it still. For starting I just twist the steering trim.

[dog8spam]

Almost forgot.
If I was buying an engine I would take the OS .12 TR w-10M. Its race legal and rear exhaust. You can find headers that will work for the GT, Billy Easton uses rear exhaust in a GT.
If your stuck on .15 see if there is a .15 in the TR line, they are supposed to be higher quality.

[coolracer47]

They dont make a .15 tr. only .12tr. what should i get then a .15 cv-r or .12 tr? Has anybody ran both yet? thanks for the help

[popee]

I need an after market head for a O.S .15CV, which is the best? I dont think I can get hold of O'Donnell was they are out of my price range, (Around £50) Thats $70. GPM Racing do them for the O.S but They are currently hard to get as GPM are being taken over. Any other heads I can use?

[baneonrt]

Originally posted by Widget
Baneort,

Regarding your crowd pleazr body not fitting; did you get the GT? After seeing your body, I went out and had to have one too (fk, that sounded quite ***) And sure enough I bought me a crowd pleazr, I did not have the guts to start cutt'n though. Too much goin on today. But should I take it back? I do not want to get it done just to find out that it doesn't fit.

Widge

Yeah, I got the one specifically for the GT. However it was sitting at my LHS so I don't know if it's an early revision and they've corrected them or not. I ended up using the post extenders in an HPI kit just had to modify them a bit to work. The HPI part number is 85032 so you can search for it on Tower or wherever.

Originally posted by rocknbil
How the heck did you find that, I looked all over for it! COOL!

Associated's site is one of those that you click on links like mad and sometimes you get lucky. Go to Catalogs, then the HTM link under RC10GT & RTR truck. From there is a link on the left side to Drawings. I think it helps that I wasn't even looking for the exploded view when I found that :)

Steve

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by low_ridah10
So are you saying that at idle my car shouldnt move forward?? Because when i start my car it goes forward at idle speed.


No it's okay if it coasts a little. It's even ok to put the brakes on to hold it there. What's NOT ok is if you have a little brake applied all the time.

If your brakes are incorrectly set, and they are "on" a little, they never go off. Not even when you rev it up hard. This adds more resistance on the clutch bell and hence the heat.
And here's something else: Get a manual and make sure you're putting the clutch shoes in the right way, don't feel dumb if you get them in backwards, it's easy to do, but if you do the clutch will sure enough be engaged full all the time!

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by xxxkat
How much money on the 9402s ?

Do you really want to know? :) More than I wanted to spend!

S9405: 79 oz/in .11 sec $85
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBXA8&P=0

S9402 88 oz/in .13 sec 4.8 volts 111 oz/in .11 sec 6 Volts
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXH305&P=0


OR . . take your chances on ebay . . . sometimes good, sometimes not . . . I think I got one for $46 and one for $56, they were both like new.

[xxxkat]

Thanks for the info bill,Now on clutches stock or mip ?On motors do you run side or rear port? I just bought a mugen seiki mt12,I am looking foward to getting this GT together by Dec.(its a money problem,or I think its a lack of.)I just want to get the stuff that will hold up for racing.I dont care if I win,I just want to make the 15min. A-main.(I could make the A main with my losi,it would not last till the end of the race.)Thanks for all the help.

[ritchies rc10gt]

xxxkat,go for the MIP clutch.its much better than the stock clutch plus you get 4 settings to try so that you can find the setting that works best for you.you can run side or rear exhaust engines,but to run a rear exhaust you will need the right header for it,i think the XXXNT has the header you need to run rear exhaust,but im not sure.or you may be able to use the rear exhaust header for the NTC3,somebody that knows for sure will be around soon.to help lower the possibility of stripping a spur during a race,use the RRP machined plastic spur gears,i had the same gear on mine for about 4 months untill the motor mount screws came loose,make sure you use threadlock on the motor mount screws,header screws and clutch nut.run 2 fuel filters,1 on the pressure line and 1 on the line going to the carb.to help lower the chance of breaking an inline steering block if you hit the pipes or something,boil them for 10 minutes.the list of stuff to make the truck last through the races is about 2 days long,but you will find out when you start running it.most of all,and most important,have fun and enjoy the truck!

[JCason]

Can anyone give me the hp rating on the stock AE .15 engine on the gt rtr? I am looking to upgrade the motor but I want to know how much it has since that is what I have now.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by xxxkat
Thanks for the info bill,Now on clutches stock or mip ?On motors do you run side or rear port? I just bought a mugen seiki mt12,I am looking foward to getting this GT together by Dec.(its a money problem,or I think its a lack of.).....


Well richie's got some ideas. Personally I don't think any of those things are going to win or lose the race for you, it gets down to just good driving.

My wife's got the MIP in her GT, I left mine stock, I have a brand new MIP flywheel and clutch sitting in the box but don't see as much of a difference so have not been motivated to install it. Maybe there is. In fact it had an MIP setup in it when I got it and I took it all out. If money's an issue for you, I don't think it's going to make that much of a difference for you.

As for exhaust . . . I have checked out the rear exhausts and am undecided. You have to get a new rear tower, header . . . also if money's an issue, ditto. You'll have a lot more to choose from with the stock side exhausts, and there's lots of tuned pipes to choose from.

To last till the end of the race? Well make sure everything's nice and tight and change it out if there's any question! :)

[BinaryAvoidance]

I got my gt up and running the other day. Its so fast!!

[chachi]

if you run a rear exhaust engine, can you just switch the header to have side exhaust? or do you need to run the exhaust out the rear of the truck?

it seems to me that the enigne mount configuration on the gt would make it possible to have a rear exhaust engine, but maintain the side exhaust pipe location. this would make it unecessary to get new shock towers, etc.

[atm92484_3]

Chachi, you are correct. To use a rear exhaust engine, you'll just need the rear exhaust header. That will allow you to keep the pipe where it is and not have to reconfigure any parts of the truck.

[xxxkat]

Thanks for the Info on the GT,I could have had my GT together by now but I wanted to do it "right",Digital servos,Novak xxtra receiver,Rear port motor,Progressive suspension,Titanium turnbuckles,hinge-pins,and some parts from Hardcore,and Trinity.Out of all the rear manifolds the Losi fits the best.I KNOW that the way Im building MY GT is not going to be any faster around a track,But I just wanted to build one this way,On my losi the graphite is very brittle,I had problems with the shock towers breaking landing off a jump,other things like getting T-boned in a turn(by GTs) and breaking A-arms,I would watch GTs doing & having the same things happen to them AND NOT BREAKING.As far as the cash flow goes,I have other RC cars I race,So I have to get parts here & their.I wanted to build a GT that when I look at it,I go WOW thats trick. To me RC racing is all about "the fun factor"I dont get mad if I get hacked,or if the turn marshal does not get my car fast enough,Relax have fun.:D :p

[rocknbil]

Yeah, plus they look so sweet with all that hop-up stuff on there . . . LOL

[BinaryAvoidance]

Aluminum Chassis, Aluminum motor mounts, aluminum rods (unsure proper name there up front), Titanium turnbuckles, Hitec metal gear servos, xxxl fm receiver, graphite schock towers, NovaRossi .12 engine, Tuned pipe.

Thats my gt :)

It goes pretty fast :D

[xxxkat]

The GT Im building is very close to yours(binary)I am trying the Hardcore Titanium shock towers & nose tube mounts,and their hyper brake disc.I was going to use the titanium skid plates but I race and sometimes us racers hit things,the stock bumpers give a little,and I think thats a good thing.Have you changed any gears in the tranny?(metal ones)

[BinaryAvoidance]

Not really, im planning on getting metal spur gears though. And im changing the one gear to a 25t, im new to the hobby cant think of the name :rolleyes: Its the one the starter box spins....

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by BinaryAvoidance
Not really, im planning on getting metal spur gears though. And im changing the one gear to a 25t, im new to the hobby cant think of the name .....

Binary that's a pinion gear/clutch bell. :)

I would strongly advice against the metal spur. Here's why: the plastic spurs cost you about four bucks. Lets say something goes wrong, it doesn't matter what - the engine slips out of position on a really hard jump, a pebble gets in there, whatever - you strip your spur. Now if something goes wrong with a metal spur, you not only damage the spur, you also can damage the clutchbell, so now you have TWO expensive parts to replace.

They make it out of plastic to make it cheaper for you to stay running.

BTW a 25 tooth pinion? Yee gads! :) What spur will you run? I'd wonder what that will do to your low-end, and is it's going to put any stress on the engine at lower speeds . . guess you could dial it out with clutch and torque control . . .

[BinaryAvoidance]

OOPS! I meant 15t. sorry.

Good point. Ill stick with the plastic spur.

Thanks for the advice.

[atm92484_3]

Try the machined plastic spur gears by Robinson Racing.

[JCason]

Can someone please tell me the hp rating on the stock .15 motor on the RC10GT RTR? Also, what is the most powerful motor to buy to put in it place with little modifying.

[rocknbil]

Oddly enough, the "tech sheets" on the AE site don't say.

I'm going to go out on a limb here, if you're looking for a new motor I'd look in this order and in the range of your budget:

Nova Rossi (oh man check out this sweetest engine thread:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100448 )

I have heard the WASP engines should fit in here next (no personal experience.)

Picco - I have a used RC .12 speed and the compression is not all that great on this engine and it is TOTALLY ballistic, I shudder to think what a new one would do.

OS CV series - OS has been building engines forever, you just cannot lose with an OS engine.

As for .12 or .15, there is a certain point at which you not only cannot use any more power, it puts undue stress on the drive train. My opinion - .12 engines provide all the power a GT needs.

[speedydave]

Hey guys...I think I asked this before, but it's getting close to when my track's gonna go indoor again, and I wanna have my GT all set up for some butt kickin'. I've got an OS .12 CV(S) with an O'Donnell head right now, and it's really fast for a CV, but the CVR's and Picco's and RB's and MT12's are definitely faster on the straight, and when we go to our arena track(not indoor, just covered...I know I said indoor before...but it's got no walls! :p ), they'll be faster everywhere.

OK, so here's my question. I love OS engines, and I want to get another...but, I don't really know if I want a .12 CVR(S), or the .12 TR(S). Have any of you used a TR in a GT? I know both are high output engines, and I'm aware of the pros and cons of putting a high output engine in my truck. I'd just like to know what the major differences in power these two engines have, and what kinds of tracks you all would recommend them for. Thanks!

[ross]

Originally posted by speedydave
Hey guys...I think I asked this before, but it's getting close to when my track's gonna go indoor again, and I wanna have my GT all set up for some butt kickin'. I've got an OS .12 CV(S) with an O'Donnell head right now, and it's really fast for a CV, but the CVR's and Picco's and RB's and MT12's are definitely faster on the straight, and when we go to our arena track(not indoor, just covered...I know I said indoor before...but it's got no walls! :p ), they'll be faster everywhere.

OK, so here's my question. I love OS engines, and I want to get another...but, I don't really know if I want a .12 CVR(S), or the .12 TR(S). Have any of you used a TR in a GT? I know both are high output engines, and I'm aware of the pros and cons of putting a high output engine in my truck. I'd just like to know what the major differences in power these two engines have, and what kinds of tracks you all would recommend them for. Thanks!


The only really major difference between the 2 engines is that the TR is rear exhaust, so you will need a new manifold, but they are fairly cheap and worth it. Im not sure how the power bands compare because I dont own both, although my CVR was shipped from tower yesterday :D.


IMO, you wont go wrong with either of the engines.

[Tstalion79]

I wouldnt get an OS. I would try the orion wasp engines, or a sirio. They absolutely rip.

[ross]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
I wouldnt get an OS. I would try the orion wasp engines, or a sirio. They absolutely rip.

Why do you think he shouldn't get a OS?

[Tstalion79]

Well, I have owned 2 .12 CV-R's and 1 .15 CV-R. They are very reliable and consistent engines, but they just dont have enough power in my oppinion. They have pretty good top end, but they dont have nearly the bottom and especially mid range punch of the sirio's and wasps. I am not saying that they are bad engines though! Dont get me wrong, they are awesome; they are very smooth and consistent.

[baneonrt]

Are there any sites with actual dyno plots from various engines? I'm looking for a .12 rear exhaust engine of some sort and it would be nice to be able to compare. Any recommendations for an engine that meets those two requirements? I don't care about having tons of peak power. I want an engine that's going to be as tame as possible but still have good punch.

Steve

[Tstalion79]

The CVR makes just under 1 horsepower according to RCCA, the sirio makes 1.6 (not 1.8 as sirio claims), and the wasp makes about 1.5. The MT-12's, RB's and Picco engines are just like the wasp.

[baneonrt]

I'm not concerned about peak power numbers. They are all but useless except to sell cars/engines. I'm more concerned about where an engine makes power. This can be shown with a dyno plot.

Steve

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
Well, I have owned 2 .12 CV-R's .....Dont get me wrong, they are awesome; they are very smooth and consistent.

I've always run OS engines, in my planes long ago and in my cars, but I'll tell you I put a used Picco in and WOO HOO there is a very big difference. Cost, however, and quality, are very important here. The OS engines provide the best quality for the least money all around, if it were a choice between a dynamite for $79 and an OS for $89 I'd spring for the OS (dejá vú, I think we've been here before. :) )

[dog8spam]

I would stay with the OS they are higher qulity and last longer. If you are sponsered and get free engines how long they last is no problem. To us normal racers, it is.

[Tstalion79]

OS engines DEFINATELY do NOT last very long relative to mugens, rb's, novarossi's, picco's, and orion's. They have very weak sleeves in fact. They wear very linearly which is good, but they lose their "like new" compression withing a gallon of running. Take a look at rossi engines. My freind has one and has put 7 gallons through it and still cant turn over the flywheel.

[atm92484_3]

TS, whoever has been running O.S. engines that aren't tight after a gallon isn't treating theirs right. I have a 12 CV-R and a 12 TR sitting in my garage, both with 3-4 gallons of gas through them and both are EXTREMELY difficult to turn over when they are cold. The CV series with ABN sleeves are a different story, but all of O.S.'s ABC engines last if treated properly.

My RZ is another story...we'll just see what happens with it (I'll be sure to take another tank or two on break-in next sleeve ;)).

[xxxkat]

OS made better than a Nova Rossi?I have had both and I thought that the Nova Rossi held up better,But my OS was still a good motor.If you like OS,run the .12tr turbo its way way fast.:D

[speedydave]

Uhh, ATM, since you own both the CVR and TR, can you answer my question? It seems nobody else has... :rolleyes:

TS, you DO know that Picco makes the Wasps, and NovaRossi makes the MT12 for Mugen, and I'm pretty sure NovaRossi makes at least some of the parts for RB's...? I own an RB WS7 and love it, but for my truck, I don't need all the bottom end in the world, I'm actually looking for a little bit more top end, and some more bottom end, but mainly more top end. Yeah, the NovaRossi based engines and Picco based engines may be faster, but I didn't ask about those, I asked about the O.S. engines. Oh, and by the way, the only O.S.'s I know that have relatively short piston/sleeve lives are the V-01b's, which last 5-6 gallons. I've heard of(and seen) CV's last between 4 and 9 gallons, usually in the 6 gallon range, and CVR's lasting about 5-9. A lot of an engine's life span depends on what fuel you use, how you run the engine, and how you tune the engine. Also, the Rossi might make 1.6 hp or whatever you said(who really cares how much horsepower there is?... :rolleyes: ), but I'm almost positive that engine is illegal in almost all(if not all) forms of sanctioned racing. The MT12 made something like 1.15 hp on RCCA's dyno, and is claimed 1.35-ish(I'm not 100% positive, but I can go look it up if you want exact numbers), and I doubt the wasps make 1.5 either(probably more like 1.2). RB's engines are more like the MT12. The only application I think you'd really need that much power out of a .12 engine is in a nitro touring car. I'm not saying any of those engines suck, but in my opinion, if you're going to argue a point by arguing with numbers, get the numbers right. Also, I'm sure the OS .12 TR makes at least one real hp, or somewhere around it. The CVR has a claimed 1 hp, and dynos at .88 bhp on RCCA's dyno, where the .12 CV(the engine I run) dynos where? Somewhere around .45-.5, I believe...Just a slight difference there... :p Please don't take offense to anything I've just said, I'm just stating my opinion and the facts as I know them.

xxxkat, uhh....turbo is for onroad :D

[xxxkat]

Naw, Any motor is for any type of RC car,I like a slide carb better than a rotary anyway,As far as top end power goes you can tune with your pipe & header for more top end or less ,it is still a 2 stroke motor and it does respond to differences in back pressure.On a turbo its the plug,thats it,more choices on the heat ranges & seals better.

[wannabee]

I was at an invitational this last weekend and all I can say is the os tr powered trucks were incridably fast. I'm leaning toward the tr with the fanton 2 chamber pipe. I haven't figured out which header will work without rubbing the body any tips here is appreciated. I would also like to use a slide carb. How are you guys doing this? Anyone have pics?

[baneonrt]

Wannabee, I've seen the Mugen MST-1 header listed for about $18. Losi also came out with a new rear exhaust header that's supposed to stick out less also.

http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2002prods/Rear_header.htm

I don't remember where I saw the Mugen header. I believe it was from a link on the Mugen USA site.

Steve

[rc10gtroller]

i recently sripped out one of my gears in my differentials and now i have to by a whole transmission cuz everything is kinda messed up but is there any really good trans for my rc10gt rtr besides the stock one??

[wannabee]

baneonrt-Very cool, thanks!!!

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by rc10gtroller
i recently sripped out one of my gears in my differentials and now i have to by a whole transmission cuz everything is kinda messed up but is there any really good trans for my rc10gt rtr besides the stock one??

Why a whole tranny? Just swap out the gears, rings, and balls?

RC, the AE transmission design has not changed in over ten years and for a very good reason: it is a superior design. The original electric stealth tranny is the same design used in the GT with a smaller diff gear and case.

Part of it's design is that under extrordinary stress, that is, outside the realm of expected usage, a less expensive part will break or strip, avoiding breakage of more expensive parts. A perfect example is the plastic spur post a few threads back. Another example is the plastic gears in the diff.

If you stripped a gear inside the diff there is something definately wrong with your setup. The GT is designed to endure an extreme amount of abuse, but some things that you think wouldn't be a problem are extremely stressful on it, such as:

My first GT I bought used and the previous owner had the slipper clutch locked down and the diff had loosened up a little. Not a lot, a little. The ball bearings are not supposed to slip against the diff rings, they are supposed to roll on them, causing the differential action (one wheel turns in the opposite direction when you turn the other.) In this condition, when you hammer the throttle from a dead stop, ALL the power goes to the diff (no slipper, remember) and the diff balls slip against the washers. Causing friction. Causing heat. Causing the holes the BB's go into in the diff gear to begin to melt so the balls no longer turned. Now they won't roll even if you want them to. If I'd have continued running it like that, the diff gear would have continued heating up, gotten soft, and stripped.

Rule one: tight diff, not so tight it makes noise when you turn a wheel but so that if you hold the spur and one wheel tightly, you cannot turn the other wheel. Replace the rings and balls when it sounds "gritty" when you spin it. When properly set a Stealth tranny will not slip at all and will spin as smooth as a baby's butt.

Even with a tight diff, people abuse the transmission by hammering down the slipper clutch (I don't know what the freaking big deal is about wheelies anyway, you can't steer! :) ) Even a bad .12 engine puts an immense amount of pressure on the diff from a dead stop. Always set your slipper clutch so it slips just a little when you hammer the throttle from a dead stop, it should fully lock within three to six feet. You can tell if it's doing this by the pitch of the engine and by how much the wheels spin. Besides, this will help you drive better anyway by reducing spin out in corners. :)

If you REALLY want to, you can get aluminum or metal gears inside your tranny, or even a full aluminum case, but the ones I've seen the screws get locked up in the case. And remember what I said about one part being designed to break? If somethng goes wrong in an all-metal gear tranny, you now have many more expensive parts to replace.

Stick with the Stealth, it's an awesome tranny.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by speedydave
K, so here's my question. I love OS engines, and I want to get another...but, I don't really know if I want a .12 CVR(S), or the .12 TR(S). Have any of you used a TR in a GT? I know both are high output engines, and I'm aware of the pros and cons of putting a high output engine in my truck. I'd just like to know what the major differences in power these two engines have, and what kinds of tracks you all would recommend them for. Thanks!

Give the 12 TR a shot if you feel like spending a little extra and having to come up with a new manifold. I'm considering putting one in my GT if/when the CV-R goes. I haven't had the CV-R or TR in the same cars to compare, but it seems like the TR has more power all over the powerband.

Roller, take bill's advice. I have had my GT for 3 years and its tranny just had its first rebuild (preventive maintaince, not because the gears went).

[dawudmus]

can someone help me..
what is the best truck to get: THe associated RO10GT or
the triple X nt (picco or non picco) or the new mugen

[atm92484_3]

Which truck can you get parts for the easiest?

[Tstalion79]

They drive very similarly. The GT just feels faster and snappier out of corners, but isnt as stable as the xxx-nt. They are all awesome cars though. The gt is also the more durable of the two. I dont know much about the mugen, but I wouldnt get it just because its brand new and still might have the "first run" problems like lots of cars go through.

[toddzilla]

finally got around to rebuilding my diff in my gt, i noticed that all the tranny gears are metal.. is this normal? i got it off ebay and don't know the history of the truck other than its old, but has alot of hop ups on it.. i remember stealth trannies having nylon gears with the exception of the diff... anyone?

[atm92484_3]

Stock on the Stealth trannies is a metal top-shaft, and plastic (for lack of a better term) idler and diff gears. The metal gears were added by the previous owner.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by toddzilla
finally got around to rebuilding my diff in my gt, i noticed that all the tranny gears are metal.. is this normal?

Gee I donno Todd, maybe you should mail them to me and let me check it out for you. :-)

Is the Diff gear metal too? Does it look like aluminum, steel, or titanium?

Aluminum will have black oxidizing in areas of wear, like on the gear teeth, steel or titanium won't (just dirt and grease,) and titanium will feel light, when you hold it in your hand and feel it's weight it wil look like it should be heavier.

Originally posted by dawudmus
can someone help me..
what is the best truck to get: THe associated RO10GT or
the triple X nt (picco or non picco) or the new mugen

You're in the AE GT forum, we're all going to tell you . . .



GT's ROOL!!! :)

[xxxkat]

On the mugen being a new motor,its not,They are nova rossi motors made for mugen seki,And as far as I know nova rossi has had no problems with their rear port motors.

[sosidge]

Methinks he was talking about the Mugen truck...

[dog8spam]

What he's talking about is the little cinks, Associated is very good at fixing those. They replaced the blacktub because of chassis flex, made new fuel tanks so fuel doesn't pour out the pipe, the list goes on but thats what makes the GT such a good car. Every car has problems, at one point you got to sell the car and roll with the punches. Associated is the oldest around and has the thing pretty much bullet proof.
Mugen however is new at 1/10 stadium, and will have to see what problems come up.

[xxxkat]

Ok my bad

[hoytshooter]

I have been reading posts on this forum for quite some time now. People here have some great information. Here is a problem I am looking for a solution to......I keep popping ball ends off from my steering blocks on my GT. I went to captured ball ends for a race today and broke a steering block. I have read somewhere that I can modify T3 blocks by RPM to fit. Will there be a geometry problem here or does anyone have any other sugestions?

Thanks

[FlyinRazorback]

Hoytshooter, I was going to ask the same thing. I am using the standard ball ends with RPM cups. Seems like I had less trouble when I had the factory cups on there. How do you capture the ball ends?

[hoytshooter]

I seem to have had less trouble with the factory ball ends too. I might try them again. Captured ball ends are like what is on the outer ends of the rear camber links or the bottom ends of the shocks.

[rocknbil]

There's definately no perfect solution here. As hoytshooter found out, with captured ball ends you wind up breaking something more vital. I just keep the ball ends as new and un-stretched as possible, although I will say the H.D. RPM ball ends to hold a little better, but I have still had those pop off on occasion.

Originally posted by sosidge
Methinks he was talking about the Mugen truck...

GT's STILL rool. :)

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by rocknbil
There's definately no perfect solution here. As hoytshooter found out, with captured ball ends you wind up breaking something more vital. I just keep the ball ends as new and un-stretched as possible, although I will say the H.D. RPM ball ends to hold a little better, but I have still had those pop off on occasion.

try this:boil the steering blocks for 10 minutesand use the RPM ballcups,change the ball cups after 2 race days.ive been doing this all year and never had a problem

[xxxkat]

As far as the ball cups go,Im with rocknbill,When you hit something hard enough to knock a ball cup off you saved your A arms,blocks,hinge pins etc.Its easy to pop them back on,If they are coming off all the time,replace them.Lunsford makes some heavy duty ballstuds(super duty- 5-40 instead of 4-40) They also make super duty turnbuckles & RPM makes a super duty ballcup that is designed to exactly fit the super duty turnbuckle and ballstud.(sounds like an ad)But they do work very good for nitros.I have been using them and have not had a problem with them poping off.(unless I hit something really hard) :D

[low_ridah10]

Does anyone know if i get the chassis upgrade kit for my tub chassis GT does it upgrade the 1/4 axles to the new 3/16 axels? Im trying to find some wheels for my truck but Iam planning on getting the chassis upgrade kit and want to buy the right wheels.

[baneonrt]

The chassis upgrade does not change anything to do with what size axles you run.

I upgraded a tub chassis truck as well so I know.

Steve
http://steve.baneon.org/rc10gt/

[low_ridah10]

well what do I have to buy to use the 3/16 axels? and also are the front axels the same on the tub chassis as they are on the new chassis? because when I looked on RPM's page they had 1/4" wheels for the rear and they also had the 3/16" wheels for the rear. But they only had on wheel listed for the fronts and it doesnt say what size. Do you know why?

[baneonrt]

The front wheels are the same. The only thing you would need besides the new axles and wheels to convert to 3/16" axles would be rear hub carrier bearings. I believe you need four 3/16" x 3/8" bearings.

Steve

[low_ridah10]

so all you need is the new bearings and new axles for the back.? Is there any advantage to the 3/16 compare to the 1/4?

[baneonrt]

Yes, along with wheels to fit the 3/16" axles that's all you'd need. The advantage of the 3/16" axles is that the bearings they use are more durable. No matter which axle you run the outer diameter of the bearings are the same. So with the larger 1/4" axles you have less room for the balls in the bearing. The 3/16" axle uses a bearing with larger balls so they are more durable.

Steve

[low_ridah10]

Thanks for the help!

[Widget]

HELP!! I'm sorry, but I have to say that the articles in Nitro need to be a little longer, and more specific. I read through an article on proper tuning of ones carb, but it left a lot out in my opinion. In tuning my CVR I am having a lot of fluid oozing from the pipe. Is this normal? Second, just how much of the exhaust can one intake before they put them in an assylum? Could someone here give me the "Tuning for dummies" version of properly tuning my carb. Next will be a request for the "Radio Controller for Dummies".

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by baneonrt
....The advantage of the 3/16" axles is that the bearings they use are more durable.....

Plus you get to use wheels that fit the T3, Losi, etc. without drilling them out. I'm sticking with my 1/4"s though, I have tube of bearings in case I ever blow one. :)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Widget
.....In tuning my CVR I am having a lot of fluid oozing from the pipe. Is this normal?
I'm presuming you mean from your exhaust pipe and yes, it's normal, in fact it means you're running rich enough to keep your engine alive.

just how much of the exhaust can one intake before they put them in an assylum?

It's like smoking pot. One whiff and you are hooked for life and have to undergo a painful withdrawl that will sometimes kill you or, if you're lucky, leave you a vegetable hooked up to a life-support system.

Just kidding, although the castor oil in it is rumored to give you diarrhea.

JUST KIDDING it's harmless ok!!! :)

"I love the smell of nitro in the morning. It smells like . . . . like victory." -Apocalypse Now . . . sorta



Could someone here give me the "Tuning for dummies" version of properly tuning my carb.

The short story:

For an OS engine, close high speed needle valve completely, then open it 2-1/4 turns (factory spec.)

Start, warm it up with at least five laps, and lean out by 1/16 turn until it performs the way you like, stays running at idle, low speed, and full throttle, and passes the spit test (dime0sized drop of water boils off but does not sizzle, enrich it if it sizzles)

For a low speed adjustment, the screw should be sticking out of the barrel by about 1/32." If it tends to die at low speed or idle, turn this 1/16 turn one way or the other until it improves.

MAKE ADJUSTMENTS IN VERY TINY INCREMENTS EITHER WAY.

http://www.osengines.com/faq/product-faq.html#q4

http://www.osengines.com/faq/faq-q661.html

http://www.osengines.com/faq/faq-q654.html

http://www.rccaraction.com/articles/super_tune4.asp

[cbordeleau]

I just swapped out my old dogbones for the MIP CVD's and had to do the bearing swap at that time. The main reason I did this was the old 1/4" x 3/8" bearing kept on burning up.

I have to check but I think the old setup took 3/16" wheels also. I thought the went from 1/4" down to 3/16". I could be wrong though.

The bearing size listed 3/16" x 3/8" is correct.

[dog8spam]

I think some dogbones have 3/16.
Does MIP sell 1/4 CVDs?

[baneonrt]

I know the new RTR Plus comes with a 3/16" dogbone axle setup.

Steve

[chachi]

another option is to get RPM oversized hub carriers and bearings. they are super beefy. i switched to them after i destroyed a set of 1/4" bearings.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Does MIP sell 1/4 CVDs?

Yes, and the best place to get them is on eBay, look for the RCboyz auctions, they're out of Denver CO. You can get them in the shiny version (SaawwWEEEEET!) or the original black anodized version.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by speedydave
.

OK, so here's my question. I love OS engines, and I want to get another...but, I don't really know if I want a .12 CVR(S), or the .12 TR(S). Have any of you used a TR in a GT?

Dave,
I'm new to this thread so forgive me if your question has already been answered. I used to race the CV-R last season and this season I've ran the Mugen MT.12 , but I've seen the OS TR in action and it is better than the CV-R. The power band is smooth and it will turn up like you want. I think the MT has a little more punch on the bottom but mid to top, the TR is like the MT on the track.

I've used the Trinity header with the Trinity pro pipe and it's tucked in nicely beside the chassis. I say used because I flipped the header 180 and piped the exhaust out of the back. I'll follow this thread from now on so if you have any other questions, just ask.

Someone in here was asking about ballcups..... I've always used Losi ballcups on the GT ball studs, they work much better than the RPM cups and last longer than the stock AE cups.

[Railman]

Dog8spam,
I'd highly recomend using the 3/16" axles for several reasons. One is the availability of 3/16" rims, & hub carriers. If you go the rout of the 1/2" x 1/4" Rpm caries, you can't get them in 1 1/2 degrees, which has become the std for the newer GT's. I have run all 3 setups. Bearing life is about the same for the 3/16"x 3/8" bearing as the 1/4" x 1/2" bearings. Another consideration is the unsprung weight of the 1/2" bearings. They are much heavier than the 3/8 x 3/16. The 1/4" x 3/8" bearings are a total joke. Mine lasted for just a few tanks of hard running. That's when I switched to the Rpm 1/2" bearing hubs & axles. They were ok as far as durability, but if I'd known how good the 3/16 x 3/8" setup was, I would have done that 1st. If I'm not mistaken, Assoc has switched to all 3/16" axles on the latest kits.
Joe

[JCason]

I have the ae .15 engine in my rc10gt and was wondering if anyone took the restrictor out of the carb and whether is helped, hurrt or did nothing.

[Railman]

I don't have one, but I've read a lot of posts that claimed a big improvement in performance when removing them. You may need to richen your top end a bit though to keep the temps down.
Joe

[DirtKite]

JCason I used to have one of these engines and one of the hobby shop guys recommended getting a better head for the engine if i removed the restrictor. He recommended an O'Donnel but i have yet to find an O'donnel head for the .15, maybe he was up selling... who knows.
I recently replaced that engine with a new one (.15) from AE through their engine replacement policy and the new carb that came with that engine doesn't have the restrictor in it. as far as i can tell the only thing that's different with this new engine is they've improved the pullstart mech.
I just finished breaking in this new one and so far i haven't had any time to dial it in yet. :(
hopefully, soon I'll get to play.

[baneonrt]

If you search on Tower Hobbies for an "Associated Cylinder Head" you will find a few O'Donnel heads for the AE .15 and AE .12 engine. Part number 29061 is for a blue O'Donnell head for the .15 just in case you don't find anything with the keywords I gave above.

Steve

[jnegrx]

The O'Donell head for the RTR GT is sold as AE. Your LHS should be able to get it. It's for the .15 engine in the GT RTR.

[hoytshooter]

What nitro % is everyone running in their GT's and why?

[dog8spam]

I use 10% for thrashing, 20% for racing. 10% makes a difference on engine life, I've ran about 6 gallons through my OS and it still has good compresion. According to AE you need a new piston/
sleeve every 3-5 gallons.

[JCason]

20% I want power all the time!!

[xxxkat]

I never noticed that big of a difference on rebuilds from 10% to 20% so I run 30% haul ass & rebuild,Its all for fun anyway.

[DustinAdams]

Im new to nitro, i bought a used rc10gt for 162 including shipping, its an older modle, but it has bb's in steering and throughout the whole car, 2 nice servos, and an o.s cv .15 engine, it was realy fun for the day that i had it and the day that i ran it, i guess i got carried away and went to fast and broke a few pieces coming down a hill, so i replaced them the next day and later i played with it and it got stuck in full throttle at around 45mph and boom it hit a curb and blew my engine


welp i got a mach .15 on the way, it was used and sent back to losi for a rebuild, and hasnt been broken in, i was wondering if anyone could help me break it in because im very anxious to get this puppy back up and running, thnx

[Widget]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rocknbil
I'm presuming you mean from your [B]exhaust pipe and yes, it's normal, in fact it means you're running rich enough to keep your engine alive.

Rockinbill,

That definately put me on the floor, laughing, gasping for breath. Thank you for not suggesting I start taking PENNICILLIN, for my "oozing pipe".

As for the "POT" comment, it took me a hel.l of a lot more than a whiff for me to get hooked.

Thanks for taking the time in giving me the info.

Steve

[Widget]

I think I should have started with one of those Tyco RC trucks from K-Mart. If you will recall, I have a HiTec Lynx3D, MIP steering kit, on a FT GT. I got it on ebay. It came with many tires. After raking leaves, and setting up a mild jump in my yard, I went bashing. The problem is I can't get up to speed to hit the jump with any gusto. When I give it gas, I start to fish tail, and every bum I hit, causes erratic steering. Is this just a matter of practice, or is there any set up procedures on the radio or truck that will increase control. SHT, watching those punks at the local track taking double jumps without fail, total control throughout the track. This is all making me feel pretty lame. Any suggestions from my new friends here would be most helpful. Would the tires make that big of difference? Are the shocks too stiff? Do I have cerebral palsey setting in?

[Widget]

And while I am whining...I was running up and down the street, almost full throttle, and I could not tell if it was shifting. Do these trucks have more than one gear? I know, I know, I should know some of the basics. If someone here could refer me to a book on RC10GT's It would probably save y'all from a hundred more idiot questions in the future.

[JCason]

First, the RC10GT does not have more than 1 gear. Second, as for driving, it just takes practicee. Don't get down on yourself, just practice. as far as changing springs, gears, tires, etc it just depends on each person. I prefer blue springs on the rear and silver on the front but everyone will tell you something different. I do know that is you plan on jumping it I would change your front a-arms, bulkhead, and a few other plastic stock parts to RPM products, they have a gaurantee that they will not break and you will need it while jumping your car. Hope this helps you some.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Widget
I think I should have started with one of those Tyco RC trucks from K-Mart.

You mean you didn't? I did. LOL

When I give it gas, I start to fish tail,.....

One, look at the nut that holds the spur gear in place. See the spring under it? This is called a torque control and is designed to prevent the fishtailing. Normally you learn to press your throttle slowly, allwing it to get up to speed before drawing it to full throttle. This takes a lot of practice and control, as soon as we hear that pop of a nitro engine we want to pull that sucker back like we're shooting a gun.

Until you learn this control, loosen the torque control a little. (without the engine running!) As you loosen it, hold the wheels so they don't turn and spin the spur with your finger. It should be a little hard to turn but should still slip. Start it up, set it down and nail the throttle. Still fishtailing? Loosen it up another 1/8 turn. Do this until when you nail the throttle, the torque control slips for 6 -20 feet MAX before you hear it "lock in" and can tell the full power is going to the wheels. BE CAREFUL you don't get it too loose. If you're at full throttle and it's barely moving, you'll not only heat up the torque control and damage the washer, you'll wear out the engine. The idea is to loosen it just enough to prevent spinouts. And remember this will CHANGE depending on what surface you're on, carry a 1/4" nut driver with you wherever you go. Put it with your small flat blade screwdriver you carry with you to tune up every time you start.

Uhh . . . you do check your tunign every tmie you start, right? :D


Is this just a matter of practice, or is there any set up procedures on the radio or truck that will increase control.

Absolutely, undenyably, yes.

SHT, watching those punks at the local track taking double jumps without fail, total control throughout the track.

Watch them, listen to their engines when they go in and come out of a turn, see how they approach, listen for when they're at full throttle, low, half, learn.

One thing I will say is that to drive well, once the rush of the full speed burn wears off, learn to drive slowly, it's every bit as important as high speed driving, if not more.


....and every bum I hit, causes erratic steering...

I bet that makes for a lot of sore bums. :D


In the steering linkage you'll see a silver knob that adjusts the amount of "give" you have when you hit something, this protects your servo. Tighten this knob down a little, but not too tight, or you may damage the servo. If it's already tight, you may need to get a stronger servo.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by DustinAdams
Im new to nitro, i bought a used rc10gt for 162 including shipping, its an older modle, but it has bb's in steering ...got stuck in full throttle at around 45mph and boom it hit a curb and blew my engine......welp i got a mach .15 on the way, it was used and sent back to losi for a rebuild, and hasnt been broken in, i was wondering if anyone could help me break it in.......

Dustin first let me say you now know the potential for damage, read my previous post on learning to drive at low speeds as well. :)

Second, the ball bearing steering can give you some grief, see the post on this page for my opinion on GT steering:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35995&perpage=25&pagenumber=221#post744653

As for break-in, you can go to http://www.osengines.com and look at their FAQ, it gives some very good advice, but you will hear differing opinions on break-in procedure. The idea is to run at low speed and low stress for at LEAST five tanks. Some people let it idle for a full tank; I tend to side with OS in that you want to "polish" the cylinder and piston at the speeds you intend to use it. Run it very rich and at MAXIMUM 1/4-1/2 throttle for at least two tanks (this is going to be the hardest thing to do, be patient and not get on the stick!) For the third to fifth tank run at 1/2 throttle -3/4 throttle with slight 2 second blurps to full (don't JAM the throttle to full, slowly bring it to full and then back down to half.)

After the fifth tank you can start running a little harder and leaning it out a little.

Guys? Other opinions? This is but one view.

[Widget]

JCason, when you suggest I get RPM replacement parts, does this mean that the Factory Team upgraded parts are not up to the job? AND, I appreciate the response.

Steve

[atm92484_3]

He was saying if you're going to jump, upgrade the arms, rear arm mounts and rear bulkhead to RPM since they flex more in a crash. The FT parts are designed for racing (but you won't be replacing any FT parts anyways with these 3 RPM parts) and the stock parts are more than enough for jumping, but by getting RPM, you'll be able to survive harsher crashes without needing repairs.

[JCason]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
He was saying if you're going to jump, upgrade the arms, rear arm mounts and rear bulkhead to RPM since they flex more in a crash. The FT parts are designed for racing (but you won't be replacing any FT parts anyways with these 3 RPM parts) and the stock parts are more than enough for jumping, but by getting RPM, you'll be able to survive harsher crashes without needing repairs.
That is exactly what I meant when I told you to upgrade those parts. The factory ones break with hard landing and it is just an insurance thing. Trust me, it will be worth it in the long run when you see that next big jump you want to try.

[Widget]

Thanks again Rock.

[Widget]

Although I found Nitro Off-road to be the most exciting (jumps, burms, dirt driving dynamics, etc.) I have been toying with the idea of getting an on-road as well. Do any of you double as on-road enthusiasts? What kit? Is the Tc3 a good start? Do they have a F/T version as well?


Steve

[JCason]

I have an older 1/12 scale pan car and a nitro 4-tec so yes lots of us like on road also. I must say i like off road better and can't wait to get a t-maxx or e-maxx.

[atm92484_3]

I have a NTC3 also. I'd reccomend it to anyone since it handles good out of the box, parts are easy to find, its durable, and most of all, its very user friendly. Unless you can race, offroad is a lot more fun (thats one reason why I have an Inferno instead of a Veteq).

[DustinAdams]

thanx for the help rocknbil, i hope all goes well, ima good driver, though i do need and fm radio, and im gonna get better at looking over the throttle/brake linkages before i start

[NewToNitro]

HELP! My GT is running great but my track is really tight and technical. My GT doesnt seem to be able to make it through the S turns. Any ideas for better steering? My LHS told me to move the ball to the inner hole on the servo saver for faster steering. Any other ideas?

[Bigstick]

Just got the rc10 gt rtr plus...the car is brand new and i was on my 8th tank when i noticed that my Clutch bell was spinning uneven. I took it off and found that the bearings (flanged) were shot. Could this be because the engine was running hot (avg. temp was 260-280....i even noticed the temp got up to 300 but went right down when i richen the mix)...i saw that the clutch bell had a blue tent in the inside when i took it off.


nevertheless, the car was running great. It felt like it was broken in just after 3 tanks (can this happen)....no stalls, good idle, good smoke, good speed....everything was going fine.

I just hope that i didn't run to lean/hot...if i did what damage could it have caused to my engine/car after running hot (300) on just 1 tank?

Anyway i got new bearings...can i just clean the clutch with alcohol and put diff lube on the bearings....

Please post any advice or comments

[NewToNitro]

weird....i was at my LHS today and someone there had the same prob with their GT. His clutchbell was also turning blue. Sorry dont know how to fix it :(


I see your in ATL. I go to douglasville GA a lot and race at toys for boys in kennesaw. Ever been there?

[atm92484_3]

If the clutchbell is turning blue, your idle is too high or your clutch is damaged and its dragging is causing excessive heat. Get an MIP clutch; its the best fix. The heat generated will also be enough to cause bearings to blow.

[wannabee]

Bigstick- A temp reading of 260-280 is ok from all that I have read on that engine. I have this engine in my GT and run at about those same temps. Make the cluch change you won't be sorry.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by NewToNitro
....My GT doesnt seem to be able to make it through the S turns. Any ideas for better steering? My LHS told me to move the ball to the inner hole on the servo saver for faster steering......

The inner servo hole will be FASTER, but it won't have as much TRAVEL. Note how when you move your steering servo, the linkage on the end of a long arm will travel farther, right? I think what they're telling you to do will actually give you LESS steering for this reason. It will only work if, after you set it this way, the wheels still go all the way to the blocks when you turn right and left. I suspect it won't. Additionally, the leverage required by the servo at this setting will be much greater, causing it to put more stress on the servo motor, causing it to be additionally slower, offsetting any advantage you might gain.

Trucks tend to require a strong steering setup to hold in turns. Check that the servo saver is fairly tight. Not too tight, but tight enough that the cams don't separate when you hold the servo linkage firm and try to turn the tires. If this is good, look into the possibility of getting a stronger servo (and faster, if you can afford it, then it doesn't matter where you mount your linkage.) The Futaba S9402 to is my absolute favorite for RC 10T's and GT's - 111 oz/in torque and a blazing .11 transit speed, not to mention all metal gears and a coreless motor riding on ball bearings. Awesome.

Unfortunately, expensive, I think well over $100 nowadays.

Compromise with a minimum 70 oz/in torque and under .15 transit time, the Futaba S9404 is a good one and is considerably less. Look around on eBay.

With strong and solid to-the-block steering your GT should be able to turn around the head of a pin. :)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Widget
....Do any of you double as on-road enthusiasts? What kit? Is the Tc3 a good start?.....

I had to sell all my on-road stuff when we moved to the country, but:

Pan cars - absolute economy in moving an object with X amount of power, you will get more blazing speed out of these than other on-roaders simply because they are so damn light. I tried modified motors - BIG MISTAKE - a stock is more power than you'd ever need with a pan car. The trade-off is that they are much harder to drive, you will have to have exceptional trigger control or you'll spend a lot of time spinning the wheels. :)

Tc3 - I LOVED this thing, the 4WD made on-road driving a whole new experience. The way it pulls itself through corners was awesome, I only had the electric but I imagine the NTC3 is probably pretty hot. The tradeoff (for the electric) was that everything in that chassis ws packed pretty tight, you had to use micro ESC's and radios to get everything to fit.

Those were the two I had. Or just change your suspension setup and put some road tires on your GT. :)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Bigstick
Just got the rc10 gt rtr plus......and found that the bearings (flanged) were shot. Could this be because the engine was running hot (avg. temp was 260-280....i even noticed the temp got up to 300 but went right down when i richen the mix)...i saw that the clutch bell had a blue tent in the inside when i took it off.

More likely your engine was running hot because of drag on the motor (see below) than the other way around, even an overheated motor won't kill your clutch and clutch bearings, it's something else.

Your clutch is definately overheating, which definately is the contributing factor in blowing your bearings. A very likely cause of this is improperly adjusted brake linkage, causing you to get braking at on-throttle. When you have the brakes applied and are at throttle, the clutch is working a lot harder and the shoes are slipping a lot more than they should. This causes a gradual overheating of the shoes and bell, and bearings, when the bearings heat up they don't roll the way they should and the balls start to slip inside the bearing races, causing more heating . . . next thing you know you have blown bearings or melted clutch shoes.

Turn on all your electronics and see if the rear wheels spin free. If they don't, you need to adjust your brake linkage until they do. The wheels should spin free in all throttle positions except brake. Many people over-adjust the brakes because they feel like they can't get enough brake, but this is a dangerous trade-off.

This is also why many people blame the clutch as the problem when actually it's the brake linkage adjustment.

My wife's GT has an MIP clutch. I have two more of them in the box and my GT runs with stock teflon clutch shoes. Why am I still running the stock clutch? Never had a reason to change, it works fine.

[Bigstick]

thanks rock and everyone....great advice rock...my friend who races GT's ADJUSTED MY BRAKE LINKAGE about 2 tanks before my bearings shot....I'll adjust to the correct settings and see what happens....thanks

[dog8spam]

Some people say to let the brake drag when the car is idling which will keep it still and should not overheat the clutch bell. No matter what, the shoes will be slipping more, though it will only be at idle. It would be easy to over do it, once you touch the throttle the brakes should let off. He may have tried this.

I prefer to let the car run around at idle, it lets you have plenty of controll in tight spots. I also use my trim ALOT. If i want to park it I just dial it back so it sits, then reset it after to get more travel, which reminds me of a question.

My throttle servo doesn't seem to get enough travel to be able to lock up and hit full throttle. I know your not supposed to lock up, but its fun finishing off old tires. I cant get it without dragging the brake real bad. My radio does not have adjustable endpoints, is there anything I can do?

[sosidge]

Rocknbil/Newtonitro - moving the steering link to the inner hole on the servo saver will increase the speed, and INCREASE the maximum travel of the steering (not decrease as said above).

The downside is that it works your servo harder - I've not tested the inner hole vs. the outer hole (hardly run the trucK), but it's possible that on a grippy surface a standard servo won't have the oomph to get the wheels to full lock and hold them there.

I've had to run my steering link on the inner hole to get full lock, even with a radio with end points up to 120%.

[crazy1]

newtonitro/rocknbil/sosdige/johnboy;-** - what about using a little brake to set the rear end lose on tight turns? Heck I am not the best driver around but will this help? Since your screen name is newtonitro am assuming your not new to r/c. So for pepole who are new to r/c have you checked the dual rate setting on the radio? Is it set to allow the wheels to turn all the way/fast? I made this mistake once with an old futaba magnum JR. Had the thumb wheel all the way to the right. Also what dose your suspension look like. Try to give a little more steering to the front by raising the rear slightly. This will put a little more weight to the front. Do not rasie it by much, just experiment. This might change the way you take jumps also. Check out the ride height of the pepole who are making it through the s-turns. Please guys tell me if I am wrong.

[ross]

HI,

I ordered a CVR just over 2 weeks ago from tower, its the pilot shaft version (long shaft), I bought this version because it was alot cheaper than the rest of the different crank versions. I know I will have to cut it down, but a mate told me that even when I cut it down that it still wont fit because the crank diameter is different on long cranks than it is on the rest of them.

I just wondered if anyone had cut a pilot crank, like the one shown in the picture down so it would fit a GT? Ifso did you have any problems?

This is a picture of the exact engine ive ordered:

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/o/osmg2044.jpg


Cheers

Ross.

[RicardoH]

I want to install a rear exhaust engine, Anybody can help me about which is the best for on road? Some people said that think about sirio engine, but others said that it will not work at off road track condition, what do you think? What kind of header I have to buy?

Thank you

[ross]

Take a look at the OS TR's, Nova RS12's and the RB X12's, ive heard excellent stuff about them. You should use a Team Losi Adam Drake rear exhaust header because that doesnt rub on the body like most onroad rear exhaust headers do.


Ross.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by dog8spam
....throttle servo doesn't seem to get enough travel to be able to lock up and hit full throttle.....

Yes, this is a thing with the GT that's a bit of a problem, the margin for error here is very narrow. USe the longest servo horns you can find. If you expirament with turning the servo horn a little (lift it off, move it one gear tooth,) you can usually find the spot where you can get both. The only absolutely positive solution I have found is a really good radio that has the tuneability, my wife's XL-2P has can reach both ends, and in addition it has that extra button that gives you an extra 2 degrees or so to fully lock the brakes.

originally posted by sosidge
Rocknbil/Newtonitro - moving the steering link to the inner hole on the servo saver will increase the speed, and INCREASE the maximum travel of the steering (not decrease as said above).

Sosidge, I'd like you to look at the two lines below.

\/

The distance between the endpoints at the top is widest and progressively gets less as you move toward the bottom, correct?

Imagine those two lines indicate the full right and left of your servo, with the servo head at the bottom and the tops of the lines representing the ends of the servo horn.

Now imagine a horizontal line halfway between the top and the bottom.

This line is shorter than the distance between the tops of the lines, correct?

So how can you say that if you mount your steering linkage anywhere but on the ends of the servo horn the travel is farther?

Agreed, it will be faster at the inner position if the servo is strong enough because the distance from post to post is less, but take into account the leverage. If you can't pry a stone from the ground with a 12" stick, what do you do? You get a longer stick. If this servo is already weak, it is going to work harder than at the outermost position which provides more leverage.

If you don't believe me, try opening a door by grabbing it four inches from the hinges. You'll have to work a lot harder than grabbing it from the other side where the doorknob is.

It's all just simple geometry and physics.


Originally posted by crazy1
what about using a little brake to set the rear end lose on tight turns?

You mean to get a little "slide" around the turns? This often works (for me) but I would not suggest setting the brake so it applies as soon as I let off throttle, I'd suggest applying a little brake to get the slide. When you let off the brakes, whether it's an electric or nitro, it should coast, that's all. If you get brake as soon as you let off the throttle, especially going into a turn, you'll spin out every time.

Originally posted by ross
I ordered a CVR just over 2 weeks ago from tower.....but a mate told me that even when I cut it down that it still wont fit because the crank diameter is different on long cranks than it is on the rest of them..... just wondered if anyone had cut a pilot crank, like the one shown in the picture down so it would fit a GT?.

AAAGH I'm jealous go away. :)

JK, I'm really not sure about the R series, but I've cut the cranks on both a CV and a Picco and they both worked fine.

Before you cut anything, test it out, slide the collet and flywheel over the shaft and see if it fits, if it does you're good to go.

The GT kit comes with a "special nut" that is just like your clutch nut without the clutch shaft and is bored straight through. It's to help cut the shaft to the right length without bunging up the threads and you can probably get one at your LHS, but if you're confident with your dremel you can do it without it (I did.) Just be sure you're not cutting it too short, you can always trim off more but once it's gone it's gone!

Use a fiber cutoff wheel to do the job and wear safety glasses. I'm usually careless in this respect but the shaft is hardened steel and can shatter a cutoff wheel very easily, don't mess around on this one. Also as you cut, cut a little, let it cool cut a little more, to prevent overheating the shaft and damaging any seals that are in the main bearing up front (no flames if there's no seals in this motor please, it's just a good preventative measure. :) )

[ross]

Thanks alot rocknbill, when you say that you cut the cranks on a CV and picco did you cut them down from standard crank shafts or from pilot?

Thanks alot fo the reply, very helpful ;)


Ross.

[sosidge]

Rocknbil, the above posts were refering to the servo SAVER, which in the case of the GT is on the bellcrank, not the servo HORN, which is on the servo.

[DustinAdams]

in my motor if i have 2 1/2 turns on the high needle and 1 3/8 on the low needle, that i can drive slow and break in my engine?

[bubbastump]

no no no you want the low end 2 1/2 richen it up so u dont fry a piston n sleeve
then idle it fer a tank then lean it out some 1/16 to 1/8 turn clockwisedont drive it till the 3rd tank drive it slow then give it 1/2 power for 5-10 sec bursts then run at 1/2 power going to full throttle bor bursts
just remember u need to make adjustments along the way trying to keep 200 -218 temp after runs i learned the hard way i was never realy told i went through 3 pistons and sleeves now on #5 and ran 3 gallons still has compression its better to run a lil rich than lean

[Railman]

Roknbil,
I have to disagree with you about running drag brake. Running a little drag brake will make the truck turn in so much better, due to more weight shift to the front end, & allow more straitaway speed to boot. The problem with drag brake is to get it set just right. When I 1st started running the GT, I had the same problem of spinning out that you refered to, & you are right in that you are better off not running drag brake than to have ir set up incorrectly. The trick is in when the brake releases fully. The brake has to be fully released before the throttle starts to come up. If you read the instruction manual they talk about the spring on the throttle rod having a 1/16" gap between the barrel, & the servo post at idle position. Thats the tolerance that allows you to run drag brake. That gap allows the servo to move enough to release the brake before any throttle increase. If the brake release too late, you end up power braking in the middle of a turn, resulting in a spin out. Anyone that runs an electric car/truck would tell you your crazy not to run any drag brake on them. If it works for electric, don't you thinkl it would also be a good idea on a gasser too? That is, as long as it's set up right. If it's not right though, your much better off without it.
To me that's the most important adjustment on a gasser, & also the hardest to keep just right.
Joe

[DustinAdams]

i wish there was a reliable source for breaking my engine in, can someone give me a link? bil did but it didnt realy help


and when i screw the low all the way in, and come out 2 1/2 it gets it stuck, and wont move all the way

[ross]

Originally posted by ross
HI,

I ordered a CVR just over 2 weeks ago from tower, its the pilot shaft version (long shaft), I bought this version because it was alot cheaper than the rest of the different crank versions. I know I will have to cut it down, but a mate told me that even when I cut it down that it still wont fit because the crank diameter is different on long cranks than it is on the rest of them.

I just wondered if anyone had cut a pilot crank, like the one shown in the picture down so it would fit a GT? Ifso did you have any problems?

This is a picture of the exact engine ive ordered:

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/o/osmg2044.jpg


Cheers

Ross.


Any more answers please?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by ross

..... when you say that you cut the cranks on a CV and picco did you cut them down from standard crank shafts or from pilot?

Guys, apologies here, yesterday much have been my day for brain farts and missing one or two important words that change the entire nature of the question. The CV was a standard long crank, and I can't remember but I "think" the Picco was a pilot. To be honest I'm not sure about the pilot shaft onm this engine, your friend might be correct and I would to the collet-test I mentioned before making a cut.

Originally posted by sosidge
Rocknbil, the above posts were refering to the servo SAVER, which in the case of the GT is on the bellcrank, not the servo HORN, which is on the servo.

DOY! Enter brain fart number two, You are absolutely correct and I completely missed it, sorry!

Yes, the inner hole on the GT saver turns the crank farther with less distance the farther in you move it, my thoughts were around the servo.

Originally posted by Railman:
.....Running a little drag brake will make the truck turn in so much better, due to more weight shift to the front end, & allow more straitaway speed to boot. .....

I am by no mean an authority and just speak (or type!) from experience, and am always open to new ideas. This doesn't make sense to me though, feel free to elaborate . . .

If your brakes are dragging enough to cause a weight shift to the front end, doesn't that assist in skidding on an unpredictable surface? It seems like if you need brake, you just apply it. And how does drag on the brakes make for more straight speed?

MY driving style was built around a good smooth coast through turns, electric or nitro. When I approach a turn with throttle off, I have no trouble with the front end traction, it's the rear that's on the edge. I would like to hear more. . . .

[ross]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Guys, apologies here, yesterday much have been my day for brain farts and missing one or two important words that change the entire nature of the question. The CV was a standard long crank, and I can't remember but I "think" the Picco was a pilot. To be honest I'm not sure about the pilot shaft onm this engine, your friend might be correct and I would to the collet-test I mentioned before making a cut.


Thanks alot, if it doesnt fit Ill have to get a new crank then :(


Ross.

[bubbastump]

the best place i can think of to break in a engine is in the lil ol handbook that came with the motor i think os has it on thier website
http://www.osengines.com

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by ross
Thanks alot, if it doesnt fit Ill have to get a new crank then :(

LOL! I didn't order it for you two weeks ago! :)

Besides, surely there must be some way to make it work. I try to never speak out of turn, I've been up till three AM all week and at work 7 AM- 8 PM, haven't been at my best. If I don't know something I just don't know, sorry, but that doesn't mean it won't work. Hey if it doesn't send it to me, I'll figure it out for ya. :D

[Planet-X]

Would by any chance missing a gasket(where the muffler attaches to the engine) make it hard/if not impossible to start the engine? I dont have one at the moment, and its awefully hard to get my beast going.

[DustinAdams]

I have the older black tub chassis for my gt, i was wondering if i could up grade to the newer blue chassis, i bought blue nose plate and im about to install it now


and do they have a screw set?

[jnegrx]

Dustin
Yes you can get the upgrade. IMO it's a must for racing. The only problem you can have is that the wheelbase is about half inch longer so be prepared to make two new holes for the front body mounts.
About the screw set, what do you mean? AE has a blue aluminum
set but be careful that you put them in low stress areas.

Planet-x
The gasket is there so there are no air leaks. Remember that these motors use exhaust back preasure to keep most of the misture of air and gas in the combustion chamber. So put the gasket as soon as you can.

I use a little drag brake in my trucks but as some have said the linkage must be correctly mounted other wise there will be problems. If one does not know how to adjust it properly then go without any drag brake, it will be simpler. Electric trucks do have drag brakes. When you release the "gas" the motor acts as a brake due to the magnets trying to stop the rotation of the armature.

[DustinAdams]

i saw the blue chassis at tower for around 40$

saw the flat pullstart gt upgrade chassis at tower for 40$ but it said it came with engine mountse suspension mounts, hub carriers, bumper, and hardware, i was wonderinf if it were the same thing, i think my black chassis is ugly and i want a new one

about the screw set, i want to start with new screwsm some of mine are mest up and so on

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/375524.asp


thats exactly what my chassis looks like but mines black

i wanted somthing like this

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/375769.asp

[jnegrx]

You need to get the one with the motor mout, etc. If you don't want to mess up a lot of screws the get quality allen drivers. I don't like to use too much aluminum screws in my GTs because they can break a lot easier than the other ones. If you do get Al screws don't use them in the motor mounts and in any suspention parts or be prepared to replece them quik. I use them only to hold the servos and in the tank. If you use aluminum servo mounts then don't use aluminum hardware because they can get stuck there permanently. The second one is the new chassis but get it with the othor upgrades.

[DustinAdams]

yea iwas gonna go with the other one from stormer, i just whish it listed a pic to show me what it looked like

btw do u have aim

mine is olestupiddude

i just want someone to chat with about r/c cuz its so late and i cant sleap

[JCason]

I need a spring set-up tip. I am currently working on jumps with my car. I am constantly having the rear end flip over the front. I am curretnly running green in rear and silver in front. I have all color springs except for black for front and rear. I really don't have time to try every combo so what is everyone running and I can try those first and adjust from that or if someone has a tip let me know.

[sosidge]

As in the rear lifting in mid-air? That means fit a stiffer front spring, either gold, red or blue (i think they're the stiffer grades)

[rc10gtroller]

i need an answer fast!! im goin racing tomarrow and i dont have alot of gas left and i cant go get some but i can tomarrow at the track but its the blue thunder race formula and i run the normal blue thunder fuel so im gonna get some but since if gonna go from normal fuel to race formula do i have to run it really easy the first few tanks since it is a different kind of fuel? or can i race right away with it?

[dog8spam]

Dustin, go to a hardware (lowes?) store and look for machine screws. They should be with the fasteners. I got steel flat head 4-40s + 8-32s that do NOT strip. Each screw costs .05 to .08 dollars and there is a huge selection.
People need to look more into heavy industry for basic parts, racers are getting screwed with some of these prices. You can get a pack of 100 zink plated steel 4-40s for 1.89 from McMastercarr.
Get the factory team chassis, its more rigid, better material if you customize it you wont ruin any bits.

jason, you can controll the car in air. Right before you go off let off the throttle, when your in the air roll it on to bring the front up. If you wanted the nose down keep the throttle on the hit the brakes.

My own question-

My friend just took the carb restrictor out of his AE .15 and it wont stay running long enough for me to tell what its doing. Any settings to start me off? It dies on throttle and brakes. I just need something to keep it running long enough to get an idea where it is.

[atm92484_3]

You're going to need to richen it quite a bit since a lot more air can enter the engine.

[bubbastump]

put blue in front play eith throttle try to drill chasis in side arear to make a level jump

[Pro3/nmt105]

ross i think that a pilot shaft engine will fit in a gt without being cut you probably just need a diffrent flywheel of clutchbell i think mad man uses a pilot shaft on his x12

[ritchies rc10gt]

will unbalanced tires affect handling on these trucks?i noticed my front tires are seriously unbalanced,they are so bad that if i spin them by hand they make the whole truck shake.how do you balance the tires?

[jcnmt]

hey guys i would like to build the ultimate project gt. iwant to know what engine,pipe,header combo will be awesome.i also would like to know what other parts to get.thanks

[Railman]

Ross,
About using the SG crank (the one you pictured) on a GT:
Go to page 91 of this GT thread, & check out what Jace2000 did.
It's a lot of work, but it worked well for him. It also has some advantages in a truer running crankshaft ( vs the short threaded
style). It took me forever to find the post (hrs!), but I hope it helps you out. He gives a very nice detailed post (complete with pictures) of what all is necessary to do the conversion you will need to do to use the engine you bought. If it's too much work, you might want to do a return to where you bought it. If it's from Tower, they are pretty good about that sort of thing. Good luck,
Joe
BTW, Jace is the one who started this GT thread!

[bubbastump]

will unbalanced tires affect handling on these trucks?i noticed my front tires are seriously unbalanced,they are so bad that if i spin them by hand they make the whole truck shake.how do you balance the tires?

i hate to tell u this the problem is prob in your foams
i had the same problem my foams disengrenated

[ross]

Originally posted by Railman
Ross,
About using the SG crank (the one you pictured) on a GT:
Go to page 91 of this GT thread, & check out what Jace2000 did.
It's a lot of work, but it worked well for him. It also has some advantages in a truer running crankshaft ( vs the short threaded
style). It took me forever to find the post (hrs!), but I hope it helps you out. He gives a very nice detailed post (complete with pictures) of what all is necessary to do the conversion you will need to do to use the engine you bought. If it's too much work, you might want to do a return to where you bought it. If it's from Tower, they are pretty good about that sort of thing. Good luck,
Joe
BTW, Jace is the one who started this GT thread!


Thank you very much, appreciate it ;). The only trouble is that I live in England so returning maybe a problem. And for the price the long shaft version it was it will probaly be cheaper to buy a new crank.


Thanks again

Ross.

[trxstr1961]

my gt is in peices right now, needs a sset of rear arm mounts. hope to get some soon.. only the best ( aluminum) will do:D

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
my gt is in peices right now, needs a sset of rear arm mounts. hope to get some soon.. only the best ( aluminum) will do:D

what arm mounts are you currently running?the RTR mounts,the T/FT mounts or the RPM mounts?ive been running the RPM rear arm mounts since april and never had a problem with them.i used the T/FT mounts and stripped the screw holes all the time.if you use the aluminum mounts your gonna break arms that cost $7.00 a pair instead a $3.00 set of arm mounts or bend the chassis and break the screw or oval the holes

[Murray3]

I can't find anywhere about whether or not to get a pull start. What are the advantages and disadvantages? I would eventully like to race it.
Thanks

[Planet-X]

Does anyone have any links for some good video, other then trilordy.com? I'm specifically looking for stadium truck vids.

[xxxkat]

If you plan on racing(or like your fingers) Go with a non pull start motor,If all you want to do is play get a pull start motor.Most pull start motors can be hard to start when they are hot,you can have problems with the pull cord & the one way bearing.I do not like pull starts,I would rather haul a bump box around than yank on that freaken pull start.I know some people like them but Im not one of them!:D

[bubbastump]

i have scars and blisters from a pull start so i got a nonpull start

pull start:
blisters
one way bearings
pull cord jams
a big headache

nonpullstart:
lightweight
eaisier to start
only bad part is starter box or motor

[Pro3/nmt105]

who said a starter box is a bad thing i love not having to wait to start my cv-r within the first 3 seconds of turning over on the SB it starts and its so easy. i worship my starter box

[ross]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
who said a starter box is a bad thing i love not having to wait to start my cv-r within the first 3 seconds of turning over on the SB it starts and its so easy. i worship my starter box


Thats good to hear :D I cant wait for my CVR to come now :cool:

I love my starter box to, dont know how I done without one.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
....hope to get some soon.. only the best ( aluminum) will do:D

I don't know if I'd go with "best" on aluminum, I bought a used GT that had all aluminum ine the rear - tranny, a-arms, hub carriers, ALL. It looked really cool but upon close inspection all the hinge pin holes were so stretched out the a-arms moved at least 5º from to back . . . I stay with stock arms (and afford to have a spare set on hand! :) ) or go with the RPM's if you really need that much strength.

[dog8spam]

Once aluminum bends its bent, the plastic will bounce back to a certian degree. Like if you took a little hammer and tapped on an composite A-arm it would bounce around, but an aluminum one would get dents.
Also some of the prices for that stuff is rediculous . I could use the money for a new engine or something that would make my car go faster.
(see "Shiny parts never made a car go faster" in Car Action)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by dog8spam
...see "Shiny parts never made a car go faster"....

LOL I saw that too, and agree, I usually go with aluminum *just* for appearance, leaving any high-stress points to the composite plastics they make. Ttensile strength of some of these materials is pretty amazing.

[ross]

Originally posted by rocknbil
LOL I saw that too, and agree, I usually go with aluminum *just* for appearance, leaving any high-stress points to the composite plastics they make. Ttensile strength of some of these materials is pretty amazing.


Yea, aluminium is pretty good on non stressed parts, because it looks good and the threads dont strip so easily like on the plastic gear case. But I would much rather go with titanium or graphite than aluminium.

[dog8spam]

Anybody know what happened to the O'Donnel knife edge connecting rods? I have a magizine from '98 with them all over the place, I cant find them anywhere now.

[atm92484_3]

Theres no point in buying aftermarket knife-edged rods now since pretty much all high performance engines include them stock. Thats just my guess.

[Railman]

Odonnel knife edge rods:
I tried to by one from "Nitro Wharehouse" over two years ago, & was told they were no longer available. I think ATM has it right. There is little need for them anymore. For a few bucks more, you can buy a great engine without the need to do any mods to them. So there isn't the need for them that there was before.
Joe

[rocknbil]

Railman,

A few posts back . . .

Originally posted by Railman:
.....Running a little drag brake will make the truck turn in so much better, due to more weight shift to the front end, & allow more straitaway speed to boot. .....

Please elaborate! I'm curious, Inquiring Minds Want to Know! :D

If your brakes are dragging enough to cause a weight shift to the front end, doesn't that assist in skidding on an unpredictable surface? It seems like if you need brake, you just apply it. And how does drag on the brakes make for more straight speed?

[atm92484_3]

You have to remember that these cars are light and even a slight shift in weight will do something to the cars handling. Just a little bit of drag brake (not enough to lock the wheels) does wonders in shifting a little weight forward.

[dog8spam]

So there isn't the need for them that there was before.

My engine's from before. Is there a replacement knife edge rod or better crankshaft thats not square for a new engine that fits the old OS CV-r?

[atm92484_3]

Your best bet is probably knife-edging the rod yourself with a Dremel.

[DustinAdams]

this blows, i just got the p/s mounted on my engine and i go outside and it wont start so i check the plug and it works fine and when i put it back in it goes lopsided :( i hate it, well u know what happened, and then i try and take the head off, and i get one screw out and i screwd up the head on all the other 3 :( god a hate it, how would i go about getting it off?

if not ima sell it with an os .15cv head just in case u get it off for around 65, it hasnt even been broken in, and a brand spakin new pull start thats been pulled about 10 times :(

[Railman]

rokinbill,
It's really pretty staightforward. The farther you can power down a straight, the faster your going to get to the next turn. Unlike manually applying brakes, drag brakes can be adjusted so that they work exactly the same every time you let off the throttle. The consistentcy of drag brakes will allow you to drive harder, & still make the turn. For wide fast turns, all you need to do is roll the throttle back on a little to netralize the brake, & help top control a spinout. This will acomplish the same affect as having no drag brake for that type of turn. The only time I use full brakes is when I want to pivot a turn...so as to break the rear loose.
As far as spinning out, that ussually only happens when the drag brake is too much, the suspension is set up wrong, or the diff is bad/tight. The new longer wheelbase chassis, & 4 1/2'rear wheel tow in, pretty much solves the rear end traction problems on the gt. The tubs were more tempermental. I understand about your concern of having too little weight on the rear when braking hard, but I don't have that problem unless the rest of the suspension setup is way off. Hope this helps. If not I'll try again.;)
Joe

[Wallis Racing]

Hey all!
I have an RB X12 in my FTGT with a standard crank and it really hauls A$$, but its just not enough, LOL:p

when this engine dies, i wanna get something like a JP Black, or an RB X12T rody modified, or a...something else real powerful, LOL. but these engines all have 5mm SG cranks, and the only SG cranks that fit in the GT are the imperial thunder tiger cranks, and others like that.
So, my question is, Have any of yous out there managed to get a metric SG crank engine in your GT?
I was talking to one of my mates who thinks its possible, but it would not be worth the trouble. He thinks you could do it by:
1) drill the centre out of our Flywheel
2) then find a new Clutch nut that was low profile enough to allow the AE Clutch setup because the SG crank thread is like 2MM bigger.

Or you can:
1) get rid of the AE Spur gear.
2) use a normal CB and normal Clutch setup
3) you would have to move the engine backwards a little
4) Find a SS gear that we can mount on the standard mounts on the Slipper

Both of these methods would take some work, which i would do if i knew it was going to work.
So anyways, if any of you people have managed to get a metric 5mm SG cranked engine into your GT, please can you tell me how to do it.

Ps. I know there are powerful .12s out there that dont have SG cranks, but i really wanna know how to get an SG crank into my GT anyway!

Thanks heaps,
Anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Railman]

Walace Racing,
Go to Jace 2000 post on page 91 in this GT thread for your answer on using the SG crank. Jace did an excellent post with pictures, part numbers, & step by step procedeures.
Joe