Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v1.0

[ProRacer03]

Man I got finished building my new kit and it was missing the exhaust manifold. :( I call Team Associated, from San Jose, down to L.A. and they tell me they aren't going to send me one. I go all around the Bay Area to look for one, but no one has them.

I'm really disappointed in AE's customer satisfaction. They really suck a phat one. The car is great but the guy on the phone was being a real jerk talkin bout ohh go to your store, I told him the store told me to go to him and he just says go back to the store.
And so begins the endless loop of phone tag and who get's shafted? The customer. Now I have to shell out some more dough that was already missing from the car and long distance calls that just pissed me off instead of helpin me out. Haters I tell you.

I love the car, I hate the B.S.

2 thumbs up for the car

2 middle fingers up towards AE's customer satifaction department :mad:

[Fafnir]

I was wondering if anyone has tried any of the other pinion/spur combinations besides the ones that come stock with the kit. If so, what engine were you using and how did you like it??? Also I just realised last night that my servo saver is coming into contact with the plastic part that the drive shaft fits into, this is keeping my servo from centering properly and is effecting my steering a bit . I seem to remember someone else having this problem, if so how was it resolved??? Thanks,


Chad

[Fafnir]

ProRacer...

the reason you are having a problem getting AE to help you out is because of the dishonesty of others. AE only has two versions of the NTC3 out. Pull start, side exhaust and non-pull start rear exhaust. So what is happening is lots of people who have a side exhaust non-pull start engine are buying the non-pull start kit and realising that the exhaust manifold that comes with it is the wrong one. Solution: call AE and say that the kit you bought didn't come with one and they will mail you out a replacement.

Stormperson-

if you call AE and ask them about the screws they will tell you that they had a bad batch of screws. AE has admitted to the problem, you just got a kit that had a good batch. I am happy for you. I have a brand new set of trinity drivers, MOST people who are dropping the money on the NTC3 are not newbies and know better then to use the L-drivers that come with the kit.

--Chad

[stormperson]

huh...

has anyone tried any of the lightweight drivetrain options or any other option parts?

[Fafnir]

I have seen people with the carbon fiber radio tray, that seems to help a bit with the flex or movement of the throttle servo during breaking etc. I haven't decided if that is worth it yet.

[atm92484_3]

With the power produced by most engines today, all of those lightweight parts are sort of a waste IMO, unless you are racing at the most competitive level of racing.

[mekaniko]

Are the NTC3 appropriate only for people who already had experienced with R/C or is it also appropriate for a beginner like me.

[atm92484_3]

Its not the most newbie friendly car, but as long as you read the instructions AE includes (which, might I add, are very good in describing set-ups and what everything does), you should be just fine.

[stormperson]

i feel if i can take off a few tenths of second then they will most defently be worth it for light wieght drive train parts.

mekaniko- i think AE did a great job making the NTC3 very easy for begginers to build and race. alot of the disavantages to a pivot ball suspenion have been solved, with the camber gauge, and track width guage, and the nice explination of how to set the ball diffs. the only thing i would suggest would be a good set of hex drivers, since the thing has ALOT of screws.

[TC3Geek]

In regards to the ease of setup, I'm a newbie to nitro racing and this is also my first kit (double whammy). I thought the instructions were really easy to understand. The only thing I'm not certain if I've gotten right is the setup of the differentials. I'm just waiting for my engine, servo, etc. to come in... and doing some praying. :)

By the way, is anyone not running a high torque servo for the steering at least? I'm thinking about getting the S9404 for steering. I ordered a Futaba 2PHKA with 2 S3003 servos.

[atm92484_3]

*blushes* I'm still running S3003 servos. I plan on getting some of the high speed Hitecs soon though (they are like $55 and have 90 oz@6v). The S3003s are decent in the NTC3 though.

[rcnutt]

has anyone had probs with hitec servos?I'm running a 925mg for steer and that works great,but I had a 605mg for thro. and it died.so to stole a 5625mg dig. out of my wifes tc3 and after 2 days it died.I checked the gears and their fine and swapped plugs to check the RX and it's fine.its seems to be the electronics.I put a jr 250 in now and that seems to work fine(little slow).I was told hitec is good on warr. but should I go with airtro. or futa.?lookin for everybodys 2ct's.:confused:

[Coconut]

I fryed two ditigal Hitecs and know others that have had same problem. Didn't really like them that much any way so I sold them after Hitec returned. Hitec was good with warranty tho.

[ragamuffin]

I too, have gone through not one, but two Hitec digital servos, and am now questioning why I bought them in the first place. I guess that I wanted to try something different, and was wowed by that hand-held programmer? :rolleyes: The first was a high-torque throttle servo that was damaged in a crash; Hitec rebuilt it and promptly returned it for $25 & 2 weeks' turnaround. Now, the high-speed digital steering servo in my XR buggy has just given out for no apparent reason. :confused: No evidence of damage or stripped gears, it just works very intermittantly. I'll send this one in as well, but when it returns I will probably sell all of my Hitecs for coreless BB Airtronics. A lot of people around here seem to favor them, for a good reason I suppose.

[Zohnmon]

i used to run hitec servos until they started crapping out on me
same thing gears and bb's fine but electrics shot

i fiddled with airtronics for awhile

but once i started running jr dz8450's and 8550's
i pawned off all my other servos on budz
the jr digital servos imo hold and return to center better than any servo out there and they r plenty quick and torquey too

[nhearnest]

I really like the look of the GTP or Lola bodies and I was curious if any of them fit the TC3. Does anyone have any pictures that they could post?
thanks Nathan

[atm92484_3]

Whats the price like Zohn for the JRs?

[nitrodemon]

Check this out! I was thumbing through an old issue of R/C Car Action (NOV 01) and the brief article on the NTC3 stated that it was equiped with fluid filled gear diffs. Personal I like the ball diffs but I wonder why the change!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've been running the Hitec digital 5945 in my large scale gas boat for over a year and zero problems and thats with direct steering! Plus I run the 945 in my T-maxx for since they came out and no problems yet. Even though I prefer Futaba servos, they just cost to much.

[atm92484_3]

I think AE included the ball diffs since they are externally adjustable and instead of worrying about different fluids, you could just adjust the diff with the turn of the allen wrench. I've heard rumors though that liquid filled gears diffs will be one of the options coming out.

[TC3Geek]

Does anybody know the model of the stock tires that comes with the NTC3? I know they're Pro Line V Rage tires, but are they S3, S2, something else?

[rcnutt]

Here's my new BMW M3 GT body, and a chassis shot

[rcnutt]

2

[rcnutt]

3

[TC3Geek]

Did you cut your bumpers to get it to fit? I heard others saying the bumper is too wide for a standard 200mm body. By the way, if you painted that, that's a sweet paint job. I may get that M3 body. :)

[rcnutt]

I trimed the ears off the side and the 200mm fit fine.I give the credit for the paint to liquid mask and my badger air brush. thanks~rcnutt

[TC3Geek]

What kind of paint did you use for that? And what's the purple color called? Purple? :)

[rcnutt]

I use faskolor on all my stuff.the purple is "fasescent purple"and the graphic from top to bottom is "faspearl white","faspearl blue",and "faspearl charcoal". these paints are great,and very easy to use and clean up.

[speedydave]

What size hex drivers and nut drivers do you need for the NTC3? I have a GT, and some electric AE cars, so I have the normal glow plug wrench, and the other 3 sizes of nut drivers, as well as all 6 associated FT hex drivers. I am just curious as to if I would need to buy any more. Also, what kind of tire life does everone get with slicks, treads, and foams? Thanks. :)

[TC3Geek]

Probably a stupid newbie question :

Is it normal to have differing wheel and tire dimensions? I ask because the stock tires on the NTC3 are 26mm, correct? The parts list shows the wheels to be 24mm.:confused:

[Raydee]

Has anyone had any luck fitting a GT1 or Lola style body on the NTC3?

[Archerboi]

Is the wheelbase adjustable on the NTC3? I would like to mount HPI bodies on it if I decide to get it. I am waiting for the RTR version of the NTC3, and I think that HPI bodies are very detailed. Thanks.

[blimey]

Originally posted by Archerboi
Is the wheelbase adjustable on the NTC3? I would like to mount HPI bodies on it if I decide to get it. I am waiting for the RTR version of the NTC3, and I think that HPI bodies are very detailed. Thanks.
The wheelbase isn't adjustable but I'm running HPI bodies on mine.They come pretty close.

[Archerboi]

Hey thanks, any word on the RTR NTC3?

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by TC3Geek
Probably a stupid newbie question :

Is it normal to have differing wheel and tire dimensions? I ask because the stock tires on the NTC3 are 26mm, correct? The parts list shows the wheels to be 24mm.:confused:

Yes thats fine. Thats how all of the NTC3s are.

[nitrodemon]

What would be a good foam tire on asphalt? Long wear would be nice! (Budget, all 4 corners under $40)

[stormperson]

i would stay away from the jaco's if you are under a budget, just because they are known to chunk, and i have expearanced that myself as well.

i currently run mugen fast tires (same as treadz and ellegi), which are under $40 for a set, and they are great. however from what i hear the best tires are the ZAC project ones, however i can bring myself to use them due to the ugly wheels included, but who knows what time will bring, i might change (however those tires are $22 a pair, so it would be over $40 for a set, however i hear they last longer)

[Archerboi]

Originally posted by rcnutt
I trimed the ears off the side and the 200mm fit fine.I give the credit for the paint to liquid mask and my badger air brush. thanks~rcnutt

Is that a HPI body? I would like to get the new Toyota MR-2 GT from HPI. :p

[rcnutt]

yeah thats HPI's BMW m3 gt body.the MR2 will fit just as well.the wheelbase on the BMW is just about perfect,as well as the viper and porche I've run on my NTC3.I think the HPI bodys are way better than the protoform's.although proline makes great stuff for the tmaxx ~rcnutt

[stormperson]

HPI bodies are show bodies basically. they are very detailed, however their lexan is more brittle i have found.

Protoform and Proline bodies are much better suited for racing, they dont crack as much, and while there is less detail to them, they are slippier (aero wise) and dont have as much stuff to snag onto. they should also last longer as well under racing conditions.

[littlej72]

I have a NTC3 (just got it) it's the rear exhaust version and I have an RB .12 on it anyway my question is what starter box works with this car, I have a GS racing box and I have configured it in a few ways and still cant make it sit right. What box is everyone using, I have tried to get help from AE but there customer service totally reeks balls, they make great cars(except for some manufacturing flaws) but need to really work on keeping customers as I will never buy another AE product based on one response from there "customer service" guy. Anyway sorry for the ranting I really like the design of the car and if I could figure how to stick it on my box it'd be great! thanks. (hey if anyone is selling a box that would definately work with this car DEFINATELY! I would be interested in buying it as i think this one wont work. thanks a bunch.

[rcnutt]

yeah, your right storm if your in the boards alot you would want a heavier, thicker body.:D

[Archerboi]

HPI bodys are allot more detailed, and just for street running will be fine. No boards to run into hehehehe.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Archerboi
HPI bodys are allot more detailed, and just for street running will be fine. No boards to run into hehehehe.

LOL exactly but I've found that the front ends doesn't like rocks. :(

[Archerboi]

Does it chip the paint? Now I have a Protoform Stratus on my TC3, and I plan to get a new HPI MR 2 GT for that, and when I get the RTR NTC3 the same body for that car. I hope that the RTR NTC3 will be out this year.

[Fafnir]

Stormer hobbies has the RTR NTC3 listed, but not in stock, so I would imagine it will be out soon.

[Archerboi]

Music to my ears.:D I have to check out the price, I wonder what engine, and radio will it have :confused:

[ragamuffin]

Has anyone had problems with their fuel tanks overpressurizing and flooding their engines? I was racing my car this past Sunday (rear-exhaust version, MT-12 engine), and not only myself but many other RE owners were having problems. One person even went so far as to plug the stock pressure inlet on the fuel tank and redrill a new opening in the 'neck' of the tank, just below the level of the O-ring of the filler cap. Someone else recommended cinching a small zip-tie around the pressure line to constrict it, and therefore reduce the amount of pressure from the pipe to the tank. Motorman seems to think that replacing the AE tank with a 75cc Mugen MTX-2 or Serpent Impulse tank (mounted on a pair of aluminum HPI standoffs, new holes must be drilled in the chassis), may be one solution; he was chasing carb settings for a day before he tried this, and he claims that it worked.

Another thing...the design of the kit RE header is such that it tends to trap fuel, because it angles upwards after leaving the exhaust port. Someone told me that AE has a redesign in the works, can this be verified? As a temporary fix, I was thinking of redrilling the two spring-mount holes on the header flange so that I can rotate it to a 'flatter' angle. This would push the pipe further out some, but as long as it stays within the outside wheel track it should work. I picked up a side-exhuast header and plan to run the car with my old HPI .12R SC; if the excessive engine-loading problem is reduced or eliminated without doing the tank trick first, then I know that the header is the culprit.

[atm92484_3]

I haven't had any problems of the tank over-pressurizing or the manifold flooding. To reduce pressure in the tank, simply increase the length of the pressure line. You're idea would work with redrilling the holes for the manifold, but you'd have to make sure the pipe couldn't hit the ground.

[littlej72]

Yes with the stock routing, if you do it how they tell you in the instructions it works quite well, they have you coil it up a good bit. The fuel/oil can still pool in the pipe but i dont see any issues with the carb, just my 2 cents.

[Ketchnu]

I had the same problems with mine running a brand new novamega motor. I have to run with fairly fast idle to keep the car idling. To fix this I installed the heavier clutch springs so I could run a slightly faster idle to let the gas escape through the exhaust. I also used an 18" piece of hose for the pressure line. Now, I can idle a full tank of gas through the car and tuning is no problem.

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I haven't had any problems of the tank over-pressurizing or the manifold flooding. To reduce pressure in the tank, simply increase the length of the pressure line. You're idea would work with redrilling the holes for the manifold, but you'd have to make sure the pipe couldn't hit the ground.

I have something like 8"-10" of pressure line. As for repositioning the header, I checked it last night, and unfortunately the bottom of the pipe itself would indeed scrape the ground.

[dsnF1]

Which NTC3 kit should I get?

I have a spare .12 CV-R bump start engine and would like to use it in a NTC3. Will it work in the side exhaust/pull start version, or will it sit too high? Or do I buy the non-pull start/rear exhaust version and then buy a side exhaust header and pipe?

:confused:

[atm92484_3]

Get the side exhaust, pullstart version. It has the pullstart mounts, but the engine won't sit too high to use a bump starter or a starter box. If you want to lower the engine, just get the engine mounts and a new flywheel. Its cheaper to get these two pieces over a new pipe and manifold anyways.

[rcnutt]

ATM's right , I use my friends box at the track all the time with the stock P/S mounts and flywheel.I think it would work better with the thicker non-P/S flywheel and the lower mounts though.~rcnutt

[TC3Geek]

Being a newbie, I've been talking to other RC veterans and looking at websites regarding engines. I've always read and heard that the engine mount screws (on top) and the screws used to attach the engine to the chassis (on bottom of chassis) should have threadlock applied. I noticed that the instructions for the car showed places where threadlock should be applied, but that the engine mount screws and chassis screws weren't among them. Oversight or is there a reason for not threadlocking these screws? :confused:

[Fafnir]

I don't thread lock my engine in, because I pull it out after I get home from practicing or from racing. I just make sure when I am at the track that I check them after each run. I have never had any of them work loose and in my opinion it is not necessary. I am sure though that some people will disagree with me though.

--Chad

[Fafnir]

I'll have to double check but I don't think the non-pullstart flywheel is any thicker then the pull start one. Just smaller in diameter.

--Chad

[rcnutt]

I agree with chad.You don't want to thread lock anything you pull apart frequently.It can make ALOT of work for you(dremel)~rcnutt

[atm92484_3]

I'd threadlock those screws; I know I did. Even if you remove the piece a lot, the threadlock isn't that hard to get lose (as long as you use blue). Its meant mainly just to keep them from coming loose from vibration.

[dsnF1]

Thanks guys for the suggestion on the NTC3 kit. You are right it would be easier (and cheaper) to replace the mounts/flywheel than the exhaust system.

Now a call for your opinion. What do you guys think I would be losing if I mounted a non-pull .12 CV-R instead of a new .12 TR. They are only rated .1HP apart and i am wondering if that would even be noticable. I have been real happy with my .12 CV-R and .12 CV-RX in both of my trucks. Also since the kit is made of a pull-start would you guys mount the CV-RX instead, since they will both be mounted at the same height anyway (thus giving away the lower center of grav. advantage).

On the threadlock the key is moderation. For the Off-Road tracks I have always used it but even a drop will work and that will then allow you to back the screws out without using pneumatic wrench. :eek:

[atm92484_3]

Since they are so closely rated, I think you will find a very small difference. I have both engines but since I haven't ran them in the same cars, its impossible to compare the two. This isn't the most exact, but I think you'll find they both of excellent bottom end but the 12 TR has a little higher top end.

[Zohnmon]

:) i just finished breaking in my mt12 in my ntc3(the new way)
and man does it rip and coast forever :D

[Speed Freak512]

The NTC3 is overall a great car, three of the screws that were included in the kit were defective and were not machined correctly but using a nice set of allen wrenches I had no problems with stripping or anything. Some corners were cut to make this car, but it is still the best thing out there in my opinion. I used a 12tr in it for the first few runs, but then I decided that I wanted a little more speed so I chaged the gearing on it and dropped in a Nova RS12, now this thing really really flies! My cop neighbor clocked it at 76 mph, but I am determined to make it run faster than that. BTW has anyone had any problems with fuel leaking from around the glowplug with the OS 12 TR, mine was doing this before I took it out? Also what do you guys use for fuel? And what do you think is the best kind and why? Just a little survey I like to ask with new people. Later.

[atm92484_3]

76 mph is way too high. Radars are meant for real cars; not 1/10 scales. Try drawing 2 lines 100 feet apart and timing it; I doubt you'll break 65 mph. Anyways, I didn't think any corners were cut on this kit, and I had one of the very first ones shipping from AE's factory. I'm running a 12 TR and I'm not having any problems with fuel leaking. Are you sure it was tight and you had the washer in?

[Speed Freak512]

All that a radar gun does is time something between two knowns and the size of the object in question has nothing to do with it. Do police have a radar gun for a ford festiva and one for a excursion? I have done the intercal time like you mentioned and have come up with 74.9 mph. This is not outrageous by any means, the RS12 have 1.35 horses under the hood and this is more than enough to push the tc3 that fast, on top of having this much power my TC3 has been lightened and hopped up for speed, the gearing has been changed to much taller gears and this while hurting my acceleration did increases my top end by about my estimate is around 10-15 mph, which after you take this into account is right around were a stock TC3 would be running with a high perfomance engine.
As for cutting corners there is just a few things I would have liked to see in this kit that I didn't get too from the box like team shocks, brake and steering bearings, and a couple of things like that. This is not too say that this is not the best touring car on the market today, it most surely is, the shaft drive alone is almost enough to make it the best one out there, all kits have corners cut, if they didnt there would be no market for hop ups would there? I am going to have to start racing this thing soon, I am itching to run it with more than a couple cars and see what it really can do with a bunch of people out there. Take it easy guys, later.

[atm92484_3]

There isn't that big of a difference between a Fiesta and an Excursion; theres a gigantic one between a real car and an RC one. I've done the math before, and the Nitro TC3 is only capable of about 65 mph with the largest 2nd gear pinion and smallest 2nd gear spur. This is with an engine spinning at 36,000 rpms (which I seiously doubt your Nova is exceeding).

jmo

[Speed Freak512]

The size of the object being tested does not matter, as long as it has a reflective ability to bounce the radar waves back, that is how radar works it sends out waves and hit the object which bounces back and then more waves released bounce back and the difference in the amount of time generates the speed from relatively simple calculus. But the size again does not matter the thing that matters is reflectivity. things like plastic bodies, engine heats sinks and chassis bounce this back, and trust me it is possible, if you want to make the trip down to athens ga I will be happy to show you, but I tell you that changing pinions and spurs will give you the gears that you can and will do it if you have the power to drive those tall gears. This TC3 is also modified above this, there is the full carbon set, teflon berings, lighter drive shaft and all sorts of other goodies, weight plays and important factor with getting this car into the 70 mph range as with anything that only weighs a couple of pounds an once can make a huge difference there is also things like 3 shoe flywheels that eliminate some of the slip associated with a two shoe. You just have to trust me on this one, it does go that fast. I knew there would be critics, but I thought they would be less mentally equipped to disagree. :) I think you are also assuming that I am using gears that a specifically designed for the tc3 in which case you only have a few choices for gear ratios, but I am not using associated gears when I am running for top speed.

[stormperson]

anyone know what the recommended (or what workds) for stock break in settings for a OSTR are?

thanks!

[Speed Freak512]

These are the settings, needle valve open two turns and mixture screw set to flush with carb body and then in 2.5 turns. Hope this helps.

[Fafnir]

Has anyone tried converting the NTC3 into a Rally car yet??? If so what parts did you replace???


--Chad

[atm92484_3]

I just picked up a Team TC3 today and I plan on trying the rally on a NTC3. I don't think 55mph with a lifted car will go over too well though. If you wanted to, all you would need would be longer shock shafts, the springs, a rally body, and rally tires (and a rally bumped if you wanted to go for it).

[theShark]

heres mine

http://www.eosah.com/shark/tc3/tc345.jpg

[Raydee]

My eclipse body was just about done when my compressor took a crap......poor NTC3 has no body yet!

[atm92484_3]

.

[TC3Geek]

Not sure if this has been mentioned, but Towerhobbies.com is listing the RTR version of the TC3 for 412.99. Of course it says "Order Pending" next to it and doesn't say what's included, but maybe that's a hint at, if not the actual, price when it's out.

[littlej72]

Alright everyone, I am in the process of breaking in my RB X-12 on my NTC3 and after attending the local strett races I don't know if it's going to be enough to dominate, and for love of this car I have to go out and slaughter these guys. Honestly this engine kicks butt, It's really amazing but In it's current state although really zippy may not be enough. So what I am really asking is from what everyone has seen heard or read what is the fastest engine I can get(most powerful on the street) for this car aka a smallblock, and also just for sake of argument what is everyones favorite race engine, i have the rear ex. model by the way.

ps. IF anyone has run the RB engines have they noticed that this thing is WIERD as he-- as far as getting it dialed in, and what I can assume is the longest break in known to man, smokes one minute not the next, it is the oddest engine I have ever come across on an rc car.//!!.>>????

thanks ALL!

[Ketchnu]

I have the navamega sx-12 re ev1-ms engine and love it. It has awesome power. If you are racing on road course, it is more handling and driving than it is motor as well as gearing, but I am defintely impressed with this engine.

[Speed Freak512]

Hey I was wondering if any third parties have started to make hop ups for the NTC3 yet? I have been looking but as of yet I have not found any people with parts just for the NTC3, I would have figured that there would be tons by now. Later on.

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by Speed Freak512
Hey I was wondering if any third parties have started to make hop ups for the NTC3 yet? I have been looking but as of yet I have not found any people with parts just for the NTC3, I would have figured that there would be tons by now. Later on.



yeah, hard core racing has come out with Ti parts in different colors that will be available through horizon. as of now they are not available yet. a chasis will be $121. top plate will be $54 and so on.

[atm92484_3]

Kimbrough makes spurs (not sure if I'd call this a hop-up).

[speedydave]

OK, the stupid slow BB deleted my post cuz it took too long to process, so I'll do the short, not as info-full version(add very angry facial expression here).

What shafts on the engine does the NTC3 accept without modifications?

SteveP: I love your review of the NTC3! Whenever I read a mag, i always find something new I need(my mom thinks we should take the mags away so I don't spend so much money). Anyways, do you absolutely HAVE to re-align the gears like you did? I'm not picky, but I was thinking about getting the same engine you have, and you are doing this little realigning thing. Does it need to be done? Thanks, and keep up the good reviews *thumbsup*

[atm92484_3]

It will accept short and SG (pilot shaft) without mods.

[atm92484_3]

Check out this duo. Too bad few parts are compatible. NTC3 is still my favorite though. :)

I also picked up some nipples to relocated the pressure line. For those of you who have done it, did you put it in the side of the tank, just under the cap, or did you actually mount it through the cap? I'm thinking about just doing it through the top of the cap since theres more material up there. Any opinions?

[Speed Freak512]

Yeah I was looking over at the hardcore racing site the other day and it had no mention of parts for it yet, but they said in RC Car Action that they were going to have parts on the web site but just as one of you said they are not availible yet, although I think in about a month or so there is going to be some, becuase RC car action is reviewing it in the May 2002 edition. So maybe the stupid people at the hobby store will stop thinking I am crazy for asking about parts for it and all the sort.
I just noticed somebody already said something about the review now I really cant wait to read it. Hopefully it will cause the boom in sales, I am still waiting on some Factory Team stuff to come in that has been backordered forever.

[nitrodriver]

sorry i havent looked over this thread so i dont know if this has already been asked but... does anyone have any information on the rtr ntc3?

[Fafnir]

Stormer hobbies has it listed on thier web site as on Order. I think they even have a price.


--Chad

[nitrodriver]

ya i saw that... its a good price but i think they just copied the info from the team nitro tc3. theres no way the rtr ntc3 could have a 2 speed, threaded shocks and all that other stuff for like $330 (or however much it is at stormer)

[dsnF1]

If unable to find a Pilot shaft OS TR at my hobby store I could just cut the shaft on a normal TR right? Its just a matter of shorting the original shaft to mimic the Short shafted version. The reason I ask is that even though in comes in a short shaft version that one only comes with a rotary carb. The slide only comes with the short or Pilot version.

Thanks

[dsnF1]

If unable to find a Pilot shaft OS TR at my hobby store I could just cut the shaft on a normal TR right? Its just a matter of shorting the original shaft to mimic the Short shafted version. The reason I ask is that even though in comes in a short shaft version that one only comes with a rotary carb. The slide carb only comes with the normal or Pilot version.

Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Thats correct dsn. Just remember; measure twice, cut once. ;)

[TC3Geek]

Originally posted by nitrodriver
sorry i havent looked over this thread so i dont know if this has already been asked but... does anyone have any information on the rtr ntc3?

Tower Hobbies had it listed for something like $412 or something a few days ago... and it was listed as "On Order".

[nitrodemon]

New experience today!!! I had just finale got the car to shift and at the end of the street I het the brakes and the rear end kicked out and the car slid cockeyed. Any ideas?

[atm92484_3]

Check your tweak and make sure its the same for the axles on both ends (refer to the manual for stock settings). Its either that or just the fact that there was a lack of traction and it slid sideways.

[TC3Geek]

Daily stupid question from the newbie... ;)

I have the side exhaust NTC3 and have a .12 OS CV-RX.

How do you prime the fuel on the fuel tank? :confused:
The manual for the OS engine says to push the choke button on the tank to prime it. I don't see one. :)

[nitrodriver]

back in the day when i was into nitro the way i would "prime" my engine was i would put a real little bit of fuel directly in the carb. it worked pretty good actually but it's easy to flood the engine. another way is to put your finger over the pipe and pull the pull starter

[Raydee]

Here is what I do, I fill the tank up and then loosen the glow plug up almost until it falls out. Then I bump it with the starter or starter box for about ten seconds. Tighten the plug up, put the igniter on and then bump it over. It should fire without a problem! Most of my engines fire in the first or second bump.

[atm92484_3]

I do the same thing Raydee does. You just have to make sure the plug is tight once you get the engine started.

[ILv2Xlr8]

Originally posted by Fafnir
Has anyone tried converting the NTC3 into a Rally car yet??? If so what parts did you replace???


--Chad

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I just picked up a Team TC3 today and I plan on trying the rally on a NTC3. I don't think 55mph with a lifted car will go over too well though. If you wanted to, all you would need would be longer shock shafts, the springs, a rally body, and rally tires (and a rally bumped if you wanted to go for it).

Has anyone tried this yet?

It would be nice if AE made a rally conversion kit like they did with the electric TC3.

The NTC3 has the smoothest drive train I've seen!

Now, if we could convert it to a Rally car, it would make it that much better. A rally would most likely have to do away with the two speed, and have some sort of slipper clutch.

[Speed Freak512]

Today I had my first accident. My car went flying off the road over a curb. It held up pretty well, just poped out a tie rod and cracked my suspension mounts where they attach to the tranny cover. Ohh well it still runs and drive fine although it now has a weird toe angle on the right side, but I am getting the parts to get it all back in line friday, hopefully that wont happen again.

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by Speed Freak512
...cracked my suspension mounts where they attach to the tranny cover. ...


i cracked the screw holes in the tranny cover myself. i slid side ways into a fence though. i have to mention it was like 35 degrees outside though. however, i'm going to purchase a couple of these so i spares, thats a lame way to have to pack it up for the day. i wonder who will come out with the carbon or aluminum upgrade.

[Speed Freak512]

Yeah, when I ordered my new ones I was sure to get not one but three, just in case it happens again, I do wish an aluminum or titanium upgrade existed for that.

[atm92484_3]

AE already has graphite components out for the Nitro TC3; I'm not sure if they would hold up better in the cold but they would be more rigid. Only down side is they are more expensive to replace. If you can, try to CA the part back together until the replacement arrives. Atleast you aren't sidlined waiting for parts.

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
... If you can, try to CA the part back together until the replacement arrives. Atleast you aren't sidlined waiting for parts.


yeah i tried that. but glueing those cracked screw holes together on that part is no good. those are three holes where the shock towers attach, so when you think about, they are taking some of the most abuse on "parking lot" pavement because of all of the bumping and shifting. i dont think they made a carbon upgrade for that part, unless i'm misreading the list.

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by Raydee
Here is what I do, I fill the tank up and then loosen the glow plug up almost until it falls out. Then I bump it with the starter or starter box for about ten seconds. Tighten the plug up, put the igniter on and then bump it over. It should fire without a problem! Most of my engines fire in the first or second bump.

No need to go through all that, just cover the exhaust stinger with a finger while turning the engine over on the box or tugging the pull-starter a few times. Once the ignitor is attached is should then fire right up.

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by Speed Freak512
This TC3 is also modified above this, there is the full carbon set, teflon berings, lighter drive shaft and all sorts of other goodies, weight plays and important factor with getting this car into the 70 mph range as with anything that only weighs a couple of pounds an once can make a huge difference there is also things like 3 shoe flywheels that eliminate some of the slip associated with a two shoe. You just have to trust me on this one, it does go that fast.


I am not a critic but have had my NTC3 radared by both a static "speed-trap" device and a hand-held police-spec radar gun. Wanna' know what the fastest speed my NTC3 hit with a Ritchey RTO MT-12 in it, after averaging several runs?

56mph.

And that was with the engine tuning as optimized as I could get it (260F), 30% nitro fuel, and with a long running start to boot. On the same day under identical conditions, my big MRX-3 1/8-scale hit 68mph.

At high speeds, weight plays a much less important role than aerodynamics and pure horsepower. I really can't see an NTC3 reaching 70mph...

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by ragamuffin

At high speeds, weight plays a much less important role than aerodynamics and pure horsepower. I really can't see an NTC3 reaching 70mph...


well i dont know about 70 either but according to what you said, maybe a more "streamlined" body would help the NTC3. the diameter (larger) of the tires will increase speed too.

[LiTo]

ntc3 owners- i have a v one r for sale only ran 3 times. you can use this as your spare car and now i want a Ntc3 now or if you want to trade your ntc3 to me let me know

ALL these hopups are from k Factory.
They are Graphite upperdeck
Low Center gravity Fuel tank
Graphite brake braket
allum radio plate posts with belt tensioner
Allum vented disk brake
All Allum pullies with 32t front pulley as well
One way diff
Universals Cvd's all around (4)
Front and rear swaybars
4mm chassis with graphite rx holder.

Let me know if any of you guys are intersted
my email is Xvlitohustlavx@aol.com

thanks

[Speed Freak512]

I finally got my RC car action and I was reading the review of the NTC3 when I noticed that under the test equipment section it mentions that they used a side exhaust picco with no pull start. Well if that is true there is two problems, #1 the non pull start version of the kit includes a rear exhaust manifold and pipe, so that would have to switched out. #2 Why does that engine look like a rear exhaust engine that is not made by Picco, it is an OS 12 TR, which you can clearly see the OS TR in one of the pictures. yet they say is was a Picco and they have a Picco decal on the car? Hummmmmmmmm......

[speedydave]

Seems like they used the pics from RC Nitro(SteveP's review, where he used an OS TR)for some of the article in the normal RCCA. They probably used the side exhaust kit for the RCCA review, and just had the engine a little higher up on the chassis then a normal non pull start kit.

[atm92484_3]

Or they got a pullstart kit, dropped a side exhaust Picco in (so it would be a different test from the one in Nitro), and bought the non-pullstart engine mounts and flywheel.

[Speed Freak512]

I dont know what they were doing I can see clearly that in all the photos it is the OS engine, even in the photos of the body which include the Picco decals, I always notice little things like this, I reall wish I didn't, but hey I noticed and I might think that they were on the take from Picco or something, who knows, I just wish I could not notice these kinds of things.

[nitrodemon]

My Ride:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:

[blimey]

Nitrodemon...looks good. I always like to see someone running something other than a Stratus :D

[atm92484_3]

Nice body. :)

[Raydee]

Has anyone run the kit tires yet?

[TUCRACEMAN]

WOW! 15 Pages! Man, I've been away too long. Nice rides everyone.
~Dave

[atm92484_3]

Raydee, I ran the kit tires for break-in and I'm using them not just to mess around with until I start racing and choose a tire.

Tucraceman, long time no see. :) You fix the Nitro TC3 yet?

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by Raydee
Has anyone run the kit tires yet?


mine are bald :(

i was doing alot of hard driving with a .15 engine. do you guys rotate your tires to promote even wear?

[nitrodemon]

Just for the hell of it I decided to run a set of stock tires up front and a set of Green compond TRC foams for the rear. Lots of traction in the turns and damm what great acceleration.

Fantom motors kick *** :cool:

[Raydee]

Well I ran 4 tanks through my MT-12 today and the stock tires and they are shot! Wore holes right through them! Looks like I will be looking for a nice set of Treadz foams! Still waiting to see if anyone has run a LOLA type body on the car yet?

[dsnF1]

:D :D :D :D :D

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I got my NTC3 today and am waiting for my OS TR to arrive. I decided to just to dig a little deeper and get a new rear exhaust instead of putting my old CV-R in.

Can't wait to get in put together. Also looking forward to being a little busier on race day. (2 classes instead of one) :D

[TUCRACEMAN]

Yeah, I fixed it. Then i broke it. Please, don't make me explain it. It felt almost at bad as the first time a girl broke my heart. However, Thursday is payday, so friday is part buying day. I want that new Dual Chambered pipe for it but tower hasen't stocked it yet.
~Dave

Edit:
dsnF1, Good choice in engine. I wonder why everyone is putting the TR in their NTC3...Guess ya'll just want to be like ATM and I. :D

[jason102276]

i mounted a yokomo lola body on the car doesnt sit very well without cutting foam bumper at an angle and cutting a couple holes for the front shock tower to go through i just cant get the car to handle very consistantly it wants to spin out when i get into the throttle after a turn seems twitchy any suggestions im thinking of 60wt oil and tightning the diffs 45 front tires and 40 rears the track i run on is very tight

[atm92484_3]

I forget who it was, but someone on HPI made a custom rear body mount for their Nitro TC3 so they could run Lola and other extremely low profile bodies. I don't know if this would help any of you or not, but its worth a try.

[dsnF1]

Well I have had great luck and performance out of my CV-R and CV-RX so OS was the natural choice.

;) But I have no shame, if you (TUCRACEMAN) and ATM are fast then hell yea I want to be like you guys! No sence reinventing the wheel. :D :D :D

Can you dye premounted wheels? I picked up some Treadz and hate the white disks. (as a matter of fact I don't like white wheels at all!)

[kjar1975]

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL62/497203/666383/8664996.jpg

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL62/497203/666383/8664983.jpg

Just finished the beast the other day. Anyone else having issues with HPI bodies and the wheel wells lining up?http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL62/497203/666383/8874870.jpg

[kjar1975]

Just in case you're interested here's the tank mod. I haven't seen one over on this board yet.
http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL62/497203/666383/8661941.jpg

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL62/497203/666383/8661953.jpg

[nitrothugg]

:confused:


i cant see the pics

[kjar1975]

Hmm. Try going back a page and then back on this one. It jsut did the same thing to me??? When I came back they were there.

[nitrothugg]

i dont have a program to read the format that they are in ".ptp" or maybe i do but its buried in my computer somewhere.

[kjar1975]

I need to find a new posting service

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by kjar1975
Just finished the beast the other day. Anyone else having issues with HPI bodies and the wheel wells lining up?

Simple. Align the front wheel axles with the tiny dimples in the HPI bodies. Allow the rear wheels to be where they may; both my MTX-2 and NTC-3 have slightly longer wheelbases than the RS4's, but it's not a problem, they both outhandle the HPI anyway. :D

[kjar1975]

I got it to fit fine. Just had to cut a little more out of the rear wheel well. Just wasn't sure if I was the only one with that issue.

[atm92484_3]

I had the same thing happen kjar with both my Eclipse and BMW bodies. I did the same thing as you except in the front. BTW nice car. I'm about to go into the garage and change the pressure tap on the tank and I was wondering if you just used a screw to plug the old one?

[nitrothugg]

ok, my driving must really suck! i brushed a fence yesterday and snapped my rear hub carrier, again! and this time it was with the carbon hop-up and with the Ti tie-rod!

[kjar1975]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I had the same thing happen kjar with both my Eclipse and BMW bodies. I did the same thing as you except in the front. BTW nice car. I'm about to go into the garage and change the pressure tap on the tank and I was wondering if you just used a screw to plug the old one?

Thanks. Yeah, I just used a screw (unsure of the size.. little larger than the hole) and put a few dabs of shoe goo on top of that.

[atm92484_3]

I just did the first of the 3 AE tanks I'm going to do, and it worked pretty well. To plug the hole, I used a 4-40 x 3/8" button head screw and its a tight fit.

[kjar1975]

3 tanks. wow. I need to get a back up. I've never cracked one yet. Saying that, I probably will now

[WebbDogg]

My NTC3 kit's on order. I want to paint a body for it. Do they take the standard 200mm bodies??

Thanks in Advamce!

[atm92484_3]

Yes all 200mm bodies will work (except the pan car only ones, but there aren't very many of these). If you paint before you have the car, make sure you don't make the same mistake as me and drill the holes in the wrong posistion.

[FEARLESS INC]

Thinking of ordering mine this weekend. Whats the size of the wheel hexes on the NTC3? The reason I'm asking is because I'd like to know if Tamiya rims will fit the NTC3.

Thanks in advance.

[atm92484_3]

The NTC3 uses 12mm hexes, which are the industry standard. As long as Tamiya is the same (which I think they are) then you should be good.

[TUCRACEMAN]

Kinda pointless but interesting. I was looking at my bent chassis and I noticed that it bent in the same spot as the first chassis. The left side of the chassis bends right in front of the engine mounting holes, and the right side is straight as an arrow. STRANGE!
~Dave

BTW, I got a speeding ticket. The cop said, "I wrote you down for five miles per hour over. That cuts your fine by $125. I don't remember the exact price, but it should cost you about a NTC3 chassis, and a dual-chambered tuned pipe. Drive safely and have a nice day."


EDIT:
Does anyone know the part number for the rear exaust dual chambered pipe for the NTC3?

[TC3Kamikaze]

2354 NTC3 R. Exhaust Dual-Chamber muffler
7763 NTC3 R. Exhaust Blue Dual muffler
7764 NTC3 R. Exhaust Natural Dual muffler
7765 NTC3 R. Exhaust Black Dual muffler
Didn't know which one you needed so I posted all of em. Hope the part #s are still the same from the time I got them. Good luck.
TC3

[TUCRACEMAN]

Thank you señor Kamikaze.

[TC3Kamikaze]

No problem glad to help. :D
TC3

[phdeez]

Sorry, another newbie coming! How's the weight distrobution on these things? With the fuel cell and the engine on the same side, I'd imagine there would be a problem...PLEASE tell me this is not the case. I've read through almost the whole post, and have another question: ANY suggestions on building it? I'm supposed to get it on Monday or Tuesday of next week, so I'm trying to prepare myself. Seems like the biggest thing in the post were the screws, which supposedly has been fixed with the "newer" kits [I also have a set of integy drivers: so thats gonna cover the "stripping" of the L-allen wrenches which comes with the kit]. Also, do you guys think it would be a good idea to go ahead and purchase the extra bearings [i think for the steering and the brakes it uses bushings?], or is it that big of a deal? Thanks for playing "Help the newbie!"

Ph

[WebbDogg]

Mine should be here Mon or Tues also. I went ahead and ordered the brake bearings (1709) and the steering bearings (1714) now so I have a nice tight car.

[atm92484_3]

Phdeez, the weight distribution is fine. Since the engine and fuel tank are a lot closer to the center line, it has much less of an effect on the car than the receiver and battery which are placed farther out (same reason a skinny kid could lift a fat kid on the seesaw if the fat kid sat closer to the center). With the Integy drivers you should be fine and have no problems with screws. Also, the bearings would be a good idea to get from the get-go since its a pain in the butt to replace them once the cars built (took me an hour this weekend and I needed to do some major disassembly).

[littlej72]

I have an RB 5 port(12 obviously) on my tc3 and it will not run right, I'm starting to think I have the whole tank over preasure thing going on, how would I know? Anyway i have it set on the high end to run 250-260 at max and the low end seems imposibble! I have tuned these engines on my other cars and never had this problem. I thought at first the engine was a dud, but it flies I just cant get it right on the low end and it's left the car sitting for some time, just because I take it out and am constantly f-ing with it. IF anyone has some insight on this i would apprecitate it. thanks! It acts like its totally flooded out on the low end but if i lean it out it wont even start!

[blimey]

Originally posted by phdeez
Sorry, another newbie coming! How's the weight distrobution on these things? With the fuel cell and the engine on the same side, I'd imagine there would be a problem...PLEASE tell me this is not the case. I've read through almost the whole post, and have another question: ANY suggestions on building it? I'm supposed to get it on Monday or Tuesday of next week, so I'm trying to prepare myself. Seems like the biggest thing in the post were the screws, which supposedly has been fixed with the "newer" kits [I also have a set of integy drivers: so thats gonna cover the "stripping" of the L-allen wrenches which comes with the kit]. Also, do you guys think it would be a good idea to go ahead and purchase the extra bearings [i think for the steering and the brakes it uses bushings?], or is it that big of a deal? Thanks for playing "Help the newbie!"

Ph

Also pick up a AE #6587 torque control spring to replace the steering servo spring. The stock one is to weak.(its a pain to replace it AFTER you build the car.
The steering bearings are a must but I didn't see much difference with the brake bearings.
I found that you need to make sure the screws are firmly in the screw heads.The tolerences are very close.Pitch the stock wrenches:D

[Y2KSaInT]

Bishop: Hi! I'm not to sure but I think http://www.towerhobbies.com AND http://www.stormerhobbies.com have the NTC3 even in RTR. I think they ship to Aussie to. Just double check that. The TC3's w/o engine etc. are US$279 & the RTR version is US$309 but on order pending. The RTR was priced at $419. Hope this helps & Goodluck to ya.

[Y2KSaInT]

Hi! Can someone tell when the RTR NTC3 will be comming out & what it will be comming with, ie. engine, body, the 2 speed trans etc please?

Thanks! :D

[atm92484_3]

It should be out by summer but I doubt it will have threaded shocks or a 2 speed (since AE has a single speed kit out right now and threaded shocks would raise the price). Like the GT RTR, I think they will end up using the AE 15.

[phdeez]

Here's some info straight from AE's website, someone asked basically the same question about the rtr: Here's AE's response [as of 4/4/02]:

will the rtr have the same features as the current kit?

No. It will have a single speed transmission, and a few other differences. But it will be upgradeable to Racer specs.

do you know what radio gear will be used?

An Ace Jaguar 27mhz.

when will the rtr kits{?** be out to the hobby retailers and internet sales?

Release date not finalized yet.

Or you can click here (http://www.rc10.com/racerhub/tc3_talk/tc3_talk.htm) to check out AE's forum on the TC3/nTC3!

Oh yeah, someone asked about the engine which was going to be included, they aren't sure yet [with a response of: "Good question, what would you like to see included with the kit"] but it is obvious that they aren't going with the Thunder Tiger b/c AE said it "Sorry, the engine will not work in the NTC3 as is." so I guess THEY don't even know yet :(, sad for you ppl looking for the RTR version.

[atm92484_3]

Whats an Ace Jaguar? lol

If they wanted to use the AE 15, all they would need is a short shaft crank for it.

[phdeez]

I thought the AE 15 did have a short crankshaft? [isn't it used in the GT?]. Another Q for you guys w/ the .12tr, whats wrong with the .15cv-r? It has more power than both the tr and .12cv-r [according to tower: 1.2hp]? Or is it just b/c most tracks only like the .12 size engines? [A pitty, mine doesn't care :P]

[TUCRACEMAN]

The A.E. .15 is a stange engine. It has a kind of mini pilot shaft.
~Dave

EDIT:

There's absolutely no problem with the .15 CV-R. However, like you said, some tracks have rules that you can only use a .12 for racing. The other thing is that we wanted a rear exhaust, which the TR is.

[atm92484_3]

Plus I didn't want to buy a new flywheel and engine mounts to lower the engine (even though its not a must to mount the engine and use a starter box).

[phdeez]

OHHH, rear exhausht: now it makes sense... thx for the clarification tucraceman. i understand atm, thx!

[WebbDogg]

So another dumb question... I have an AE 0.15 that came with my RC10GT, which I've replaced with a NovaRossi 0.12... Can I use either of these motors with my NTC3? Thanks!

[atm92484_3]

Since the Nova's shaft has been shortened, it will fit with one of the included clutch nuts. The AE15 on the other hand will not, unless you are willing to cut the shaft (the AE15 has a special shaft built into the crank that is shorter than a standard SG but if you cut this off, it would be a short shaft engine).

[WebbDogg]

Thanks atm. Which one would you reccommend running?

[atm92484_3]

LOL Nova.

[Y2KSaInT]

Could someone tell me the Pro's & Con's of a Single or 2 speed trans Or the differences please? :confused: TIA!

[atm92484_3]

Well guys, I found out my Nitro TC3 with a 12 TR can do 54 mph atleast. I took it up to the local highschool with a few of my friends, and we were driving. Then one of the local officers showed up (I knew him). He wanted to know how fast the car was, but I forgot the tape measure and stopwatch at home. He went back to his car and busted out a 100 ft tape measure and a stop watch. After about a dozen passes, we got an average speed of 54 mph and the engine was only at 240. It also probably would have helped if I wouldn't have backed off of the throttle during a few of the runs when the car went off course a little. I can't wait to see what it does with a little leaning and a change in gearing. :) I had a few good flips though and the F360 body got a few nice scratches running up the right hand side.

With the single speed, its less maintaince and tuning but slower acceleration. However, on tight tracks, a single speed is sometimes more suitable.

[rczonexxnt]

Thinking about getting a TC3 (nitro, of course). My only question left is: Is it worth sinking the $600+ (motro, servos, rx, batt pack, etc) to get a competative ride for April - October season? I have all the nitro support stuff (starter box, fuel, glow igniter, etc), from my xxxnt.

I am not bashing the car, it is a good car, but I was looking for words of encouragement. If I do get into Nitro onroad, the NTC3 will be the ticket. I have plenty of dirt nitro experience, and have run electric touring cars, so I am not worried about that.


Thanks.

[atm92484_3]

IMO its well worth it, especially since it doesn't require any hop-ups or anything like that.

[clemsnfan]

I have my Nitro TC3 on order, and I am just curious besides a radio, engine, and fuel what do I need to get the kit up and running?

[Y2KSaInT]

Hiya! Can someone tell me if the RTR Nitro Tc3 is a good buy or not?:confused: Please someone? :(

Thanks! :D

[Raydee]

clemsnfan, you need a body and scrap the kit tires because they are junk!

[Chas]

rczonexxnt, get the NTC3 you will not be sorry. Associated produced a winner with this car. My son ran his at a major race this weekend and nothing on the track comes close to it's handling characteristics. He is running a MT12 and not a soul could catch him on the straights either. BTW he won the A main in his class:D The only change I would recomend is to plug the stock pressure outlet to the pipe on the fuel tank and place a nipple on the fill cap instead. Doing this increased the run time dramatically. P.S. he was running Yokomo 38's. IMHO they are the best tires for this car.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Raydee
...scrap the kit tires because they are junk!

Or you can break the car in with them, but thats about all they will last for. I trashed the stockers this weekend doing some high speed runs (the 54.3 mph run I posted above).

I'm going to order new tires later this week. I'm thinking about some HPI Advans 33r. Any opinions? I just need a decent tire with a good life.

[nitrodemon]

Well my baby meet up with disaster last weekend (ah S************************************************* ************************************************** *******************t). :(

I was trying out some new tires and while going ever so faster I ran into so slick stuff and the car went into a spin and creamed into a parked RV with the inside edge of the right front tire. Distroyed the lower a-arm, bent the lower hinge pin, bent the steering turnbuckle, ripped the shocl tower from the tranny case, and damaged the screw holes on the tranny case.

Important lesson learned, stick with foams!!!!!!!!!

[rcnutt]

I'm thinking about the exhaust line mod and was wondering why that mod will increase run time?a longer run time would be great, thanks~ rcnutt

[Chas]

rcnutt, the inherent problem with the stock pressure line location is the fact that the nipple is connected to a tube that extends 3/4 to the bottom of the tank. This arrangement has 2 effects. The exhaust gas tends to bubble through the fuel and may make it's way into the fuel line. This will result in leaner than normal fuel/air mixture and/or a rough running engine. Secondly, when running some of the lastest high power generation of engines the fuel will flow from the extended tube in the tank into the pipe. Don't ask me why this happens but it does. Maybe some engineer types can explain. After running my car with the MT12 I would constantly find large amounts of raw fuel in the pipe. I could barely get 4 minutes of run time with this situation. Putting the pressure nipple in the tank lid nearly doubled the run time, eliminated fuel in the pipe and resulted in a more consistant running engine. There are discussions about this topic on the Associated website in the TC3/NTC3 forum.

[rcnutt]

thanks chas, I did the mod last night.I won't run till this weekend so I'm looking forward to all the plus's of this mod, thanks~rcnutt

[Race4ever]

Chas, It's called siphoned, that's what's happening to the fuel. By putting the nipple in the lid it's higher than fuel, result no siphoning.

[Zohnmon]

finished a body for my ntc3

[Zohnmon]

other side

[Zohnmon]

oops here it is :rolleyes:

[rcnutt]

sweet paint job, very nice.

[Zohnmon]

thnx

[Raydee]

Too pretty to drive!!

[atm92484_3]

Very nice work. Gotta love the chrome. So whats it sitting on?

[Zohnmon]

its sitting on my dakotas fiberglass bed cover
whenever i take better piks (like outside) i cant post em here cuz the size limit but when i take em on my truck they come in just under 61k

[atm92484_3]

Thats weird. Must be because of the shades of red instead of all of the other colors. If you have to, open the pic in Microsoft Photo Editor (if you have it), and resize the pic. The only downside is you lose some quality. HPI has their limit at 100k which is much easier to live with, especially since most pics taken at 640x480 with a digital camera come out around 65k-70k.

[mab_man20]

I'm thinking of upgrading to a nitro tc3. Do you guys think this car is amazing?? what engines are you running? im thinking of getting a 15 hyper-x (i dont want an engine which is just going to spin me out coming out of every corner).

Is it worth it or should i keep racing my HPI nitro 2 which i have been very succesful with at HobbyTown in Oak Park IL.

[chem]

hey guys,

I got a problem. I was running my NTC3 yesterday at my LHS. Well the first qual went really well I got 2nd (5min heats including main). The problems started during the 2nd 3rd and main. My car ran really well for the first 4 mins but it would always die at about the same place on the track with about a min to go. Really stange. I've got an OS .12 cvr and running it at about 270-290 F. I've only runa about a quart & 1/2 through it and I believe it still has good compression. Any Ideas?

Thanks

[atm92484_3]

I'm willing to bet your engine is overheating. 290 is hot even for a 12 CV-R. On that engine, I wouldn't want to break 260 or 270.

[chem]

That could be, It always seemed to die at a point after the longest straigt right after a turn. I thaught it might have something to do with the pressur line.

[mab_man20]

your running to lean, richen it a little. Whats happening is your heating up the engine and after the straighaway (which heats the engine the most) it finally dies on you.

[chem]

I think you guys are right, I didnt think of it that way, heating up alot after the straight. Thanks for the help.

[us_matrix]

I have a OFNA Pink #10258 narrow starter box and was wondering has anyone using this starter box to start TC3 (Because the TC3 fly wheel is like buggy style Horizontial but the Ofna starter box is fixed w/ Vertical)

I just want to make sure that if i can use this starter box if i get TC3 Nitro.


This is the link of the starter box that i am using .

http://www.ofna.com/new/startbox.html

[Chas]

I use a similar box for the NTC3. just turn the car sideways, find the sweet spot, and mark the chassis lines on the box with a permanent marker. I have seen some guys attach a alluminum plate across the box to help with the alignment but I haven't had a problem with my method.

[rczonexxnt]

Anybody know if the 3 shoe clutch will engage at a higher rpm, or just quicker?

[Y2KSaInT]

Hi! I just got some info onthe NTc3 RTR.
Feature--RTR Pull Start
body--prepainted
shocks--composite bodies
wheels/tires--mounted wheels & tires
driveshafts--Unini axle design
starter--pull start engine mounts
turnbuckles--steel
bearings--rubber-sealed ball bearings
engine--.12 ABC pull start engine
transmission--single speed

With these features do you guys think its a decent RTR to get or should I go with another RTR?:confused:

Thanks!

[nitrothugg]

personally, to me those features look like any other RTR out there. i mean compare it another rtr and see if there are any differences. i guess the 4-tec is better because of the 2-speed and ez-start, but doesn't it cost more?

[TC3 BadBoy]

i just cant picture the ntc3 in a single speed :)

[mab_man20]

Its going to handle much better than a 4-tec and if you get it to start out and decide you wanna race its easy to bolt on the 2 speed and (literally) away you go!!

[stormperson]

i would really suggest getting a kit. its very easy to build, and then you know how it works so that way when you go racing (if you do) you can fix it quickly.

also the engine it comes with you will probably want to replace sooner or later, and a 2 speed ugprade will probably cost $50.

also threaded shock bodies are great for adjusting tweak easily.

[us_matrix]

Do you have to cut the crank in order to put in TC3?
How is the engine running with TC3?

[rczonexxnt]

I have only had my ntc3 for 4 days, and the only time it was run was in 1 heat. I posted the second quick time. So I would say it is a good motor.

[us_matrix]

What type of engine did you put in? Rear exhaust? Do you need to modify the engine to put in?

[Zohnmon]

i run an mt 12 in mine
if u get an SG crank no mods needed
but if you get a standard crank its ez to cut (u can even unscrew the part u need to cut from the engine)

[us_matrix]

You have SG crank or STD crank on your TC3 nitro?

[WebbDogg]

I have a Novarossi CX-12 on my ntc3 and it rocks! :D I think an RTR kit with only a 1-speed would be kind of boring. 2-speeds are awesome!

[Zohnmon]

i have an sg crank on mine but 2 of my buds have the standard crank mt12 in their ntc3's

[Zohnmon]

they both cut their cranks but it was very ez to do

[us_matrix]

MT-12 has 2 different crank shaft for sale? Where i can get the SG crank and how much you bought it?

Thanks.

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I'm willing to bet your engine is overheating. 290 is hot even for a 12 CV-R. On that engine, I wouldn't want to break 260 or 270.

It also sounds like the infamous "NTC3 pressure line location" syndrome. Most owners plug the stock pressure line location in the tank and relocated it to the cap. It's a well-known flaw.

[atm92484_3]

That could also be it. I just relocated the pressure nipple on all 3 of my Associated tanks, and there seemed to be a difference in run times (longer) and the engine seemed a little more predictable.

[Scott Maxxin]

Opinions wanted.

I am still undecided about what engine to use in my NTC3?

I know it will be side exhaust and pull start, but my question is, 12 or 15? OS or Picco?

Are there any disadvantages to running a 15 size motor?

I read somewhere that the lowest gear ratio is to high for tight tracks? is that true? and would a 15 size motor help this issue?

Thanx

[phdeez]

I would suggest an OS over picco any day. on the 12/15 issue, check with your local track, some tracks limit size of the engine to 12. Others do not. Obviously, if they allow 15's go with that [like a 15cv-r], now I hear novemega's 12's are awesome, but the os cv-r is supposedly very reliable

[Scott Maxxin]

is anybody running a 15 cv-rx motor here?

How do they perform?

[atm92484_3]

I haven't heard of anyone running them in Nitro TC3s (but thats probably because they are so new), but I could imagine the car would fly with it. I have a 12 TR and there is no lack of power; take into account the extra .03 ci, and you'd be moving.

[Zohnmon]

i just ran 1/2 a gallon through my ntc3 yesterday track testing with my prolcs

i was getting 7 minute run times on a big track(175 ft straights)
never had any problems with the stock pressure line location and my mt12 ran fine. if i take the spacer outta my tank i can prob get 8 minute runs. 2 other guys there had tne ntc3 and they were gettting the same results. maybe you guys arent using enough line, theres nothin wrong with my tank

[Race4ever]

NEED HELP WITH MT-12
I've been running my NTC3 for two or three weeks with no problems. Sunday I head to the track for our first club race, I go out for practice and the car is running great. About three minutes into practice the motor goes full rich, looses power and finally dies. Over the course of the day I changed the fuel lines, air filter, carb, glow plug. I had already made the fuel tank modification and had fourteen inches of pressure line. After each change the car runs fine for two or three minutes then full rich and dies. Engine temp up to the two three minute point 220- 230. Could it be building to much tank pressure or something cracked in the engine? Any help will be much appreciated.

:confused:

[HP7]

I was wondering if anyone has tried the Associated Starter Box yet, and how did it work. I was thinking about getting one.

[TUCRACEMAN]

Race,
So you'll be driveing and then suddenly your car will go "Gurgle Gurgle Blip Die"? You said you changed the carb? The whole thing or just the carb settings?
~Dave

[Race4ever]

TUCRACEMAN
The whole thing! I'm thinking that there is something flying around in the pipe.
Jerry

[mab_man20]

Who, other than hudy, makes a good set up board/tools that work well with NTC3?? Ive heard the kit ones are ok, but not exact.

[HauntedMyst]

any recommendations on what style reciever pack I should use for an NTC3? Hump or flat?

[Race4ever]

HauntedMyst
Flat pack it has lower center of gravity and stays put. It's a better fit.

[phdeez]

---see below.

[phdeez]

Originally posted by HP7
I was wondering if anyone has tried the Associated Starter Box yet, and how did it work. I was thinking about getting one.

According to the ppl @ the hpi board, the box is horrible. The rubber wheel is soft as putty and after 4-5 uses its toast. On the other hand, some ppl over there says it's smooth as silk. Rating? Mixed reviews ;)

[Cheyslayer]

I guess I will wait awhile and see what happens with this new box. Thanks for the reply.

[jason102276]

i had the same problem car would run 4 min gradually loosing low end then finally die to fix it i replaced fuel lines i have like 2 feet on the pressure side wrapped around tank twice just like barry bakers in new rc car action and like 6 inches of fuel feed i had about 12 pressure and almost 2 ft of feed line i think the long feed line was causing the problem because before i changed to this it was fine i was running both lines really short fuel mileage wasnt as good but car always ran fine havent changed tank yet because i didnt need to after changing the lines as far as associated starter friend has one and now i want one too looks really nice i use on ofna box now that i setup to start my ntc3 and mtx-2 tricky but possible mt-12 engines are my favorite love em great hp easy to set carb and not very finicky i have really overheated them before to like 350 repeatedly last year when i didnt know better and still run great

[us_matrix]

I have a JR XR3 radio and is using for my buggy now, I am planning to get another 1/10 TC3 nitro and going to buy a new receiver for XR3 radio (since i can control up to 3 cars) Here is my question: Should i get the same JR receiver or get the Noval XXL FM JR reciever. Which one is better in my case?

Any comments would be very appreicate.

Thanks



Report thi

[bimmerboym3]

Hello There,

I need help on my 2-speed tranny.. I don't know if it is not shifting at all or kicks right away to second gear. I can't feel or hear it at all. I'm using an OS TR as my engine... Using stock gears, etc.... please help.. I'm going crazy on this one.....


Thanks.

:confused:

[littlej72]

I modified my original tank to solve several problems (mostly ending up with a gallon of fuel/oil in the pipe at the end of the day) I am not really happy with how the mod i made turned out, I was wondering if you'll know of any tanks that fit on this car without to much modification, i know of course about the non reverse fill tank and the OEM tank both of them have a bad preasure fitting design. I know this is a huge issue as some say its no problem and some say it is, well I switch the preasure fitting to the cap without touching the settings on my engine and lo and behold it ran like a top idled all day etc. when before it would flood out and run like crap unless you were constantly on it! any way im wondering if a mugen serpent hpi ....any other tank will fit on there and i wont have to chew up the car. thanks!

[jason102276]

matrix i would buy the novak its smaller which will help you fit it in and when i priced them i think the novak is cheaper do some checking you could run out of room with jrs big reciever i run a m8 and the reciever and all wires fill entire box and m8 reciever is smaller and as far as tank issue goes we are all looking for a better way but at the hobby store they couldnt help me find a better tank most tanks arent flat on bottom im sure you could adapt another tank but you will be changing center of gravity im going to mod a new tank soon now i run 2ft of pressure line and for the 2 speed easiest way to tell if its shifting is to adjust those 2 allens that the balls are under not the springs if you back those up the shoes have further to go when engaging giving a snapier shift you can hear i had mine set so shift was almost undetectable so when i adjust i back those other ones up so i can hear the shift from the drivers stand

[speedydave]

What I've seen done on FTGT's that seems like both a good idea AND a reversable fix is, take your tank, buy a GT RTR's tank, or cap(if sold only as the cap...), and change the cap from the standard cap to the RTR's cap. The GT RTR has the pressure fitting in the cap. Then, they took a short(2/3-1 inch long) piece of fuel tubing, stuck it on the stock pressure hole, and stuck a short screw in the tubing, creating a seal in the tank. I haven't tried this yet, and I don't have an NTC3, but I do have a FTGT. Once I need to buy a new tank I'll give this a try and let you all know how it goes, but for now I'ver got my stock tank in there, and it's doing me fine.

[Tee]

Confidential information removed at request of post owner.

[atm92484_3]

Thats a really good idea. I'm liking it. :)

[Nufuhsus]

Hey y'all. I am not yet a 'pround owner' of the NTC3, but I hope to be soon :) I have asked around my LHS track if this would be a good car for a first time R/C'er and I have come away with mixed results. Some say that it is agood car for abeginner, and yet others think it is not...Grrrrr!

Any way, I was hoping that some of you might have some input. I have read nearlt all of the posts here and am impressed with the aount of knowledge that is here.

Thanks for being here and keep it up.

I am definetly planning on keeping you all up to date with my progress of what ever I get, start to finish and WOT top speed!!

P.S. Any thoughts on the bearing sets that are available for the NTC3?

Thanks in advance

[Race4ever]

Nufuhsus
Great choice for a first time car. At the track where we run there is a class for beginners, "Novice Nitro". All but one is the NTC3, the cars are holding up for all the bashing they do and the racers are having a blast. Get one you won't be disappointed.

[Nufuhsus]

Race$Ever, Thanks for the responce...Getting my mouth watering :)

Where are you located?

Is there any one on here who races at Sugar Bowl in Sugar Hill, Georgia?

[clemsnfan]

Just curious to what tires you guys recommend for parking lot bashing. And this may be a silly question but I just ordered an O.S CV-RX .12, do I need a fuel filter? If so, any recommendations? Thanks.

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by Nufuhsus
P.S. Any thoughts on the bearing sets that are available for the NTC3?



The kit already has bearings, but you can also replace the bushings in the steering rack and brake cam with AE bearing kits.

[Race4ever]

Has anyone changed the gearing from the stock set up for a short road course? The track that I run on has a 90' straight and the infield is all short straights and 180 turns. Just wondering if there is a set up that would be faster than stock?

[dsnF1]

I would get the Novak (actually i have 3 now). My reasoning was that it is smaller (in my case Futaba), cheaper and they have a great reputation. Each new car I get now gets a novak xxl for all the above reasons. I don't have any negative comments about the JR receiver, nor do I have any bad things to say about my futaba receiver, it was just that the novak was smaller and cheaper and had earned a good reputation.

Clems - Tires --> I don't have an exact tire for you but I do have a caution. I bought soft Treadz slicks and they stick great but with the OS TR I am running I will need a pit crew to change tires for me during a race. Well ok thats a little exerated but running -2 degrees camber the inside of the tires were torn up with one day of running. I myself am switching to medium compounds, especially considering it will only get hotter outside (and thus higher asphalt temps).

Derek

[HauntedMyst]

I am setting up my NTC3, this may have been addressed but I don't feel like wading through 20 pages of replies. What are you guys doing about the front bumber? Are you cutting off the ends so the body fits or trimming the body so the bumber stays?

[jason102276]

rules generally say that the bumper cannot stick out

[Zohnmon]

cut that bumper so it is just under the foam bumper
if you leave it long it will break the first time you hit anything, and it sticks out so far i can almost gaurentee you will hit something with it, not flaming your driving skills, the part is really fragile.

[mab_man20]

HM:

Im jelous that you got one (i cant believe the guy never even got it running).

I cant wait to get mine!

[Scott Maxxin]

Are you guys running sway bars?

I need to order parts for my 15 cv-x that is going into my NTC3 and am wondering if I should order sway bars too?

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by Scott Maxxin
Are you guys running sway bars?

I need to order parts for my 15 cv-x that is going into my NTC3 and am wondering if I should order sway bars too?

Sway bars (actually anti-roll bars) are advantageous when using foams. They are useful as a fine-tuning aid; tune and dial-in your suspension first, before bothering with the bars.

[HauntedMyst]

Thanks Zohn!

mab, I'll try to bring it by today but it still needs some finishing.

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by ragamuffin


Sway bars (actually anti-roll bars) are advantageous when using foams. They are useful as a fine-tuning aid; tune and dial-in your suspension first, before bothering with the bars.

Would it be advantageous to purchase anti-sway bars when you first get the car or is this something that can wait?