Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v1.0

[jason102276]

you dont need them to start like the guy said tune your suspension then use them for fine tuning

[Nufuhsus]

OK Boys and Girls (if there are any girls out there), One week from today (16-05-2002) I will become the proud (I hope) owner of an Associated Nitro TC3!! Gonna run a Mugen MT-12 in it.

Wanna Race? ;)

P.S. Thanks Jason.

[Nufuhsus]

I just realized that I may have purchased the wrong engine. I picked a Mugen MT-12 for my NTC3 and now wonder if the crank shaft is going to be correct. Anyone know if this engine will work?

[Chas]

Nufusus, the MT12 is a great engine for the NTC3. Either the stand crank or SG crank models will fit. The stand crank is generally a little cheaper but the crank shaft will need to be cut, which is simple to do.

[Nufuhsus]

Thanks Chaz. The SG Crank requires no mods, yes? I hope that is what my LHS has in stock. If not, exactly how easy is it to cut the crank?

P.S. I don't remember if I stated this all ready but I am planning on journalling my progress here, start to finish, with pics. Isn't Tech great!?

[Scott Maxxin]

Thanks Ragamuffin.

Does anybody know where I can get an O'donnel head for my OS cv 15?

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by Scott Maxxin
Thanks Ragamuffin.

Does anybody know where I can get an O'donnel head for my OS cv 15?

I think that Ace Hobbies had a bunch in stock (www.ace-hobbies.com).

[Nufuhsus]

Okay folks,

6 Days to go and then the fun begins with attempting to build my NTC3!!

Any help/tips/tricks appreciated.

Thanks in Advance.

-Nufuhsus

[Scott Maxxin]

I called Acehobbies and they said they are completely out.

I bought an O'donnel head last year and had a very hard time getting one then too?

[Jericho]

I bought an OS .12 TR from eBay to replace the OS .12 CV that I originally installed on my NTC3. The new TR is a rear exhaust and the CV is a side exhaust. I'm going to have to buy a new header and tuned pipe for the new engine, but I'd like to run something other than the stock Associated setup. Here's where I run into the problem.

The stock Associated tuned pipe has a funky curve on the end to make it mate up with the stock header. All the nice hop-up tuned pipes I've seen are just straight pipes without the curve on the end. This would be okay if I could find a header that would mate up with it, but I haven't found anything that looks like it would work.

Has anybody used the TR (or any other rear exhaust engine) on their NTC3 with a header/pipe other than the stock Associated setup? If so, what did you use? Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[GTX]

Hey guys, I am thinking about getting a NTC3, is there anything I should know about the kit? I intend to get a Fantom 12 or 15 put in there and an XR2 radio system. Are there any bad things about the kit? Any help would be great!

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by GTX
Are there any bad things about the kit?

GTX,

Not that I have seen. There is an issue with the fuel tank or something I have heard but there is a fix in this thread or there is someone who knows.

I am picking up my NTC3 in 5 days! Can't wait.

_//_ Nufuhsus

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by GTX
Are there any bad things about the kit?

GTX,

Not that I have seen. There is an issue with the fuel tank or something I have heard but there is a fix in this thread or there is someone who knows.

I am picking up my NTC3 in 5 days! Can't wait.

_//_ Nufuhsus

[RokleM]

I've got a new NTC3, and am having a few issues. For some reason when I brake hard, the wheels turn to the left a bit. So instead of breaking straight, it curves off to the left.

Anyone else running into this? I had heard it might mean your front diff is too tight, but I loosened mine and still have the same issue.

Ideas?

-RokleM

[atm92484_3]

Check your tweak (adjusted by the setscrews). It sounds like something is uneven and that is whats causing the car to veer off. Also, if one of the shocks are screwed down more than the one on the other side, this would put more pressure on one tire and have the same effects as the tweak being off.

[us_matrix]

Hi all,

I was wondering is anyone running O.S. CV-R Non pull start engine in NTC3 Side exhaust/Pull start kit? If this is possible....Does it require any modification to make this work?

Here is the link attached:
I see there are many different CV-R models and is this the right one for 1/10 on-road?


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAGD0&P=0

[speedydave]

This is absolutely possible. Your engine will be slightly higher than if you were to get a non pull start engine, but you wouldn't notice the difference. It'll work juuuust fine. :)

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by speedydave
This is absolutely possible. Your engine will be slightly higher than if you were to get a non pull start engine, but you wouldn't notice the difference. It'll work juuuust fine. :)

What do you think about the O.S. CV-R engine? Is this good for 1/10 on-road?

[atm92484_3]

I'd say its an excellent engine for onroad. I have one in my GT and I love it. Theres plenty of torque and top-end so it shouldn't have any trouble getting the car going. Granted there are more powerful engines, but the 12 CV-R would be a great choice.

[mab_man20]

Everybody i know has trouble keeping all the power from there CV-R's on the track!! they are great engines and have more power then you will ever need. Its easy to dial out a little power through restrictors or just never giving it full throttle. :cool:

[Nufuhsus]

I see all y'all talking about the O.S. Engines and them having more than enough power. Can someone relate the O.S. CV-R to the Mugen MT-12?

_//_ Nufuhsus

[GTX]

That probably wouldn't be a good comparison since OS has the TR out and the TR is more of a competitor. I have owned two CV-R's, a regular CV-R and a CV-RX, both .12. The first I had in my Losi GTX and if I would've had the slipper all the way down it would pull wheelies on command! The second, the CV-RX, I installed in my T-Maxx, and with the right gearig, it would fly. I loved them both, but I like the Fantom engines now, I wanna put one in my NTC3 when I get it. What do you guys think? .12 or .15? The .12 has 1.15 HP and about 41,000 RPM and the .15 has 1.25 HP and over 42,000 RPM. The .15 is only $30 extra and the rebuild kits are also only about $37 and have ABC construction. The .15 pullstart model is only $150 and that is their most expensive engine.

[Nufuhsus]

GTX, I hope that post wasn't for me because it didn't make much sence to me. No offence.

34 hours from now I should be bringing my NTC3 home!!

Gawd! I'm getting (insert adjective here) :cool:

[GTX]

haha, it was, what was wrong with it? What I was saying was that the MT12 is a much more powerful engine and would be better compared with the TR, although the CV-R is a very powerful engine.

[Nufuhsus]

LOL...Thanks man...I have heard that alot actually...that it is a powerful engine. Actually, a few people have tried to discourage me from getting it being that I am a newbie and all, but their warnings were all too late. The ink is still wet!! Honestly I am gladthat it isn't a wimpy engine. I mean, yeah, starting out you should walk before you run, but engines are not cheap. Radios for that matter as well! I figure, as long as I don't hose it from the word "go" and take my time I should be ok...my bigest fear is tunning. I have'nt a clue.

any way...I am rambling...Thanks.

_//_ Nufuhsus

[us_matrix]

Hi,

Which one i should get for TC3 steering? 625 has more speed but less torque and 645 with less speed but more torque.
Should i get more speed or more torque for on-road?

Thanks.

[FrankyRizzo]

The only things you need for the NTC3:

1. Use a tall foam to keep temps from spiking. Carb opening behind the head when driving gathers hot air with the short "button" style foam.

2. Move the pressure fitting to the top of the fill cap. Seal the stock opening. This will keep fuel from running out your exhaust and hot gasses from heating the fuel itself.

3. Get Barry Bakers setup from the issue of extreme RC magazine.
This is a great place to start with an already awesome handling car.

My .02 worth

[FrankyRizzo]

us_matrix

not alot of torque is needed and too much speed can cause oversteer. I use Hitec 605's on throttle and steering. They are pretty inexpensive and do the trick.

[jason102276]

i love my mt-12 motors but for a newbie an os engine is a better choice i probably wouldnt know how to tune an engine if it werent for the os instructions and the mt-12 instructions dont really make sense but when your looking for more power keep mt-12 in mind they are great

[atm92484_3]

I just got the latest issue of RCCA, with the Reader's Choice Awards. Take a guess as to what the #1 nitro tc is? (I won't open my mouth and spoil it for those of you who still do not have the issue, but its not too hard to guess. :))

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I just got the latest issue of RCCA, with the Reader's Choice Awards. Take a guess as to what the #1 nitro tc is? (I won't open my mouth and spoil it for those of you who still do not have the issue, but its not too hard to guess. :))

Gee...do you think that since he posted in this thread it might be the TC3?!

_//_ Nufuhsus

P.S. I am getting mine tomarrow :cool:

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I just got the latest issue of RCCA, with the Reader's Choice Awards. Take a guess as to what the #1 nitro tc is?


Uh, the new HPI RS43 SS?

Lmao!

[jpvitullo]

hello all, i'm having some trouble with my steering and was wondering if you could help. the steering works fine but when i turn the wheels with my hand and the radio off, it doesn't move he servo. the little thing that the turnbuckles connect to like absorbs it all. if i tighten the little screw down that you get to by the hole in the chassis, the screw like "bottoms out" and hits the outdrive that the center shaft goes into. what's going on?

[FrankyRizzo]

You don't want to go too tight on the nut because that's what absorbs the shock of touching walls. If you have a good metal gear ball bearing servo you can go a bit snugger. I tightend the screw a bit more and then I turned my steering so I could have access to the bottom of the screw. I took a dremel and ground the screw down flush with the nut so it would clear the outdrive.

Be very careful to grind it down slowly because if you hold it too long it will overheat and melt the whole rack. This did not happen to me, I figured I would throw it in if common sense was omitted.

[GTX]

Hey guys, the RTR NTC3, it isn't coming out til early August right? Any word on a quicker release date? I wanted to wait for the RTR version because the kit would set me back about $570!!! I don't know if I should wait for this(and almost waste all my summer btw) or get an HPI Nitro RS4 3 Type SS. Any ideas of what I should do? I really don't know what the RTR will come with. And I don't have my June issue with me right now, so I don't know what the good and the bad issues were with the RS4 3. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by GTX
I wanted to wait for the RTR version because the kit would set me back about $570!!!

Wow I paid like 270$ for my Non pull NTC3
_//_ Nufuhsus

[Nufuhsus]

OK Boys and Girls...
I just brought my NTC3 kit home!!!

Check back as I will be posting my progress with pics
_//_ Nufuhsus

[GTX]

I meant with engine and radio and all of that, that is complete and ready to go. If I have the funds, I will go with the more expensive one, but I will just have to see.

[Nufuhsus]

Ahh...well if you wana talk everything...I totaled over 800$!

[nitrothugg]

my ntc3 rolls in backwards freely. is that normal?

[atm92484_3]

When you say "freely", do you mean the clutchbell doesn't turn? If thats the case, then its normal since there is a one-way bearing on the 1st gear and it will only grip if the clutchbell is moving the spur gear (not the other way around).

[John Crowe]

would like to have a custom look and was curious if progressive shock resivoirs would fit and work properly with with the Team Associated nitro TC3 car. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Sorry I think I posted the same question in other areas of site by accident.

[FrankyRizzo]

progressive shock resivoirs would fit and work properly

Why? Those are for high displacement like on off road. Don't waste your money and your adding weight.

[Nufuhsus]

Here it is...Just brought it home last night. Gonna begin tonight.

Wish me luck

_//_ Nufuhsus

[FrankyRizzo]

sh*tcan the tires and go straight to the foams. Also save yourself a headache and put the #3 pistons in the rear.

Have fun!!

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
Also save yourself a headache and put the #3 pistons in the rear.

As apposed to what?

Also, What servo would be best for this car if not the ones the other guy was talking about?

_//_ Nufuhsus

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by Nufuhsus
Here it is...Just brought it home last night. Gonna begin tonight.

Wish me luck

_//_ Nufuhsus

Hi Nufuhsus,

Where did you get the MT-12 engine? How much are they?
Is this a Pilot shaft or you need to cut the crank?

Thanks.

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
Why? Those are for high displacement like on off road. Don't waste your money and your adding weight.

Agreed!

[HauntedMyst]

Can someone post their set up from tail to tail? I don't have the Xtreme issue with Bakers set up in it yet.

[Tee]

Originally posted by John Crowe
would like to have a custom look and was curious if progressive shock resivoirs would fit and work properly with with the Team Associated nitro TC3 car. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Sorry I think I posted the same question in other areas of site by accident.

I don't know personally, but using the power(s) of deduction / elimination / observation, it looks like they would fit and not bump anything. Since the blue aluminum caps fit the blue shocks and the hard green shocks, the progressive caps should fit. But, realize this: the volume compensator (the foam on the "bobbin") that comes in the VCS shocks works quite well, IMHO. So you would be in effect duplicating (or increasing?) the VCS function of shock. Yes, you would have a custom look. What color were you thinking of getting?

[FrankyRizzo]

Front:
shocks 60 wt
#3 piston
springs yellow
sway bar blade type 60 degrees
2 degrees neg camber
0 degrees toe
tires 45 shore 26mm
9 degree caster
4mm droop
5.5mm ride heigth

Rear
shocks 40 wt
#3 piston
springs red
sway bar wire type
3 degrees neg camber
2 degrees to in
tires 40 shore 30mm
4mm droop
5.5mm ride heigth

Both diffs set up like manual

Lightweight clutch bell
lightweight 2 speed
lightweight first speed housing

That should get you started.

[us_matrix]

Does TC3 Kit comes with any shock oil? If not, What weight should i get to start with?

[FrankyRizzo]

I think 30 wt is the stock oil. Look at the post above for more info.

[HP7]

The kit comes with 40 wieght oil.

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by us_matrix


Hi Nufuhsus,

Where did you get the MT-12 engine? How much are they?
Is this a Pilot shaft or you need to cut the crank?

Thanks.

Matrix,

I bought the MT-12 @ LHS for $170 and it is an SG shaft with slide carb.

NTC3 Build Update 1:

Got the front and rear sway bars, steering rack, and front dif compleated.

Question:
1. What do I do if I did not use proper amount of dif lube in the large gear?

2. How do I know if the dif spring is fully compressed?

Thanks for all your help...you know who you are :)

_//_ Nufuhsus

[FrankyRizzo]

#1 just enough to coat the balls in the gear. You can go a tad heavy if you want. It just spins and coats the inside of the case.

#2 watch the nut on the opposite side of the srew and when the T part of the plastic hits the bottom of the outdrive opening (where the dogbone part of the CVD goes) When it bottoms out be very careful because you will fold them over on themselves and it will be shot. Then back it out according to the instructions.

[us_matrix]

Hi guys,

I am going to order the TC3 kit in this week. But i need help to decide which Engine i should get. Here is my list:

1. O.S. CV-R Non pull Side exhaust
2. O.S. TR Non pull Rear exhaust
3. MT-12 Non pull Rear exhaust

I like the CV-R becasue it's the cheapest and heard they are very easy to tune but i don't how's the performance if compare to the others two?

I heard the MT-12 is the most powerful engine and the price is very reasonable too but I am very concern about the tunning of this engine becasue i am kind of new to Nitro. I am afraid i will have problem of tunning of this engine if i get it.

OS TR .... Most expensive but good power and easy to tune (I heard)

Any suggestion would be appreciate....

[RokleM]

It all depends on what you're planning on doing.

For most tracks, the OS TR is just amazing (TONS of horse), but it can't be near fully utilized due to the size of the tracks.

We have a pretty large track here in Columbus, and I have a hard time getting past 3/4 throttle on my CV-R because out of the box the NTC3 is so fast.

The CV-R is a good, solid, and cheap engine. Just FYI, it's on sale right now on towerhobbies.com for $125.... a steal.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUJ73&P=7

Just my 2 cents.

-RokleM

[FrankyRizzo]

I personally enjoy the rpms of the Novarossi family of engines. I have had the MT12 an currently run the JP mod version of it. It can be a bit to tune but once you get there it is very nice. All of my MT12 have started on the first bump and have been very powerful.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
Front:
shocks 60 wt
#3 piston
springs yellow
sway bar blade type 60 degrees
2 degrees neg camber
0 degrees toe
tires 45 shore 26mm
9 degree caster
4mm droop
5.5mm ride heigth

Rear
shocks 40 wt
#3 piston
springs red
sway bar wire type
3 degrees neg camber
2 degrees to in
tires 40 shore 30mm
4mm droop
5.5mm ride heigth

Both diffs set up like manual

Lightweight clutch bell
lightweight 2 speed
lightweight first speed housing

That should get you started.

Thanks Franky!

[b3buggy]

any one got any suggestions. IM new to onroad a just got a ntc3 last month but im having problems getting traction in the rear. the track I run at is fairly smooth and ok traction. thanks

[FrankyRizzo]

Are you running sways front and rear?

is the car set up anything remotely like the previous posts?

[jereme spilker]

it is set to the stock set up with no sways thanks. with yokomo slicks.

[FrankyRizzo]

Then try this:

Front:
shocks 60 wt
#3 piston
springs yellow
sway bar blade type 60 degrees
2 degrees neg camber
0 degrees toe
tires 45 shore 26mm
9 degree caster
4mm droop
5.5mm ride heigth

Rear
shocks 40 wt
#3 piston
springs red
sway bar wire type
3 degrees neg camber
2 degrees to in
tires 40 shore 30mm
4mm droop
5.5mm ride heigth

Both diffs set up like manual

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by Nufuhsus


Matrix,

I bought the MT-12 @ LHS for $170 and it is an SG shaft with slide carb.

NTC3 Build Update 1:

Got the front and rear sway bars, steering rack, and front dif compleated.

Question:
1. What do I do if I did not use proper amount of dif lube in the large gear?

2. How do I know if the dif spring is fully compressed?

Thanks for all your help...you know who you are :)

_//_ Nufuhsus

Hi,

I just ordered the same engine as you are SG Crank slide carb.
I was wondering do you need to cut the crank in order to fit right in?

Thanks

[Zohnmon]

you dont have to cut the crank if it is SG

[Nufuhsus]

I am at the point of building the two speed. My question is, the one way works however, the smaller gear can spin freely in either direction. Is this correct? Also, there is a gap between the two gears.

Please help ASAP.

Thanks in advance
Nufuhsus

[Tom Hutt]

How do you cut it out?
By my eyeball it looks like I would cut the body post hole.
How have Y'all done it?
Holes maybe??
Anybody have a pic? Link to a pic?

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by Nufuhsus
...the smaller gear can spin freely in either direction. Is this correct?

it is normal for that to spin freely. it engages when the two clutch shoes "grab" it at a higher rpm. thus engaging your second speed.

[FrankyRizzo]

I cut it out in a T shape top being open and then tapering down between the body post mounts.

[Nufuhsus]

Thanks Thugg

[Tom Hutt]

I do not have a Hudy board.
Does anyone know how to measure the toe in/out on the NTC3?
The instructions are clear on everything except how to measure toe. I set the turnbuckles up according to the length supplied in the book, but there is too much toe out for me.

[Nufuhsus]

Hey all.

Having a little issue with my 1/16" button head screws for the upper chasi striping out. anyone run into this or know what I can do to keep this from hapening further?

Thanks _//_ Nufuhsus

[atm92484_3]

Get a good set of allen drivers (I'm using the Dynamite ones). Pretty much every Nitro TC3 owner who used the stock wrenches, stripping some 1/16" screws sometime or another.

[FrankyRizzo]

Toe in?

set the car on it's *ss and you can use the supplied camber gauge to tell. Same with the front, just take off the front bumper.

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Get a good set of allen drivers (I'm using the Dynamite ones). Pretty much every Nitro TC3 owner who used the stock wrenches, stripping some 1/16" screws sometime or another.

ATM,

I just got a set yesterday...man what a differance!

Thanks

_//_Nufuhsus

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Get a good set of allen drivers (I'm using the Dynamite ones). Pretty much every Nitro TC3 owner who used the stock wrenches, stripping some 1/16" screws sometime or another.

ATM,

I just got a set yesterday...man what a differance!

Thanks

_//_Nufuhsus

[atm92484_3]

Don't you wish you had those for the first part of the kit? (I know I sure did :))

[nitrothugg]

after being skeptical about the mod where you move the exhaust line from the back end of the fuel tank to the lid i finally gave in after just being bored recently. i was able to find an old nipple from some old tuned pipe and then i drilled with a dremel a hole that was nicely snug with the threads of the nipple. a 5 minute job. i finally got a chance to test it and it really works as a cure for the "dripping oil" out of the pipe! now i have less of a mess at the end of the day.

[Tom Hutt]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
Toe in?

set the car on it's *ss and you can use the supplied camber gauge to tell. Same with the front, just take off the front bumper.

The front after removing the bumper is NOT at 90 degrees to the wheel. As a matter of fact it is pointy. I still can't figure how to measure front toe. Thanks anyway, but I will take your replies with a grain of salt in the future.

[atm92484_3]

Just buy some RPM camber and toe-in gauges. IMO they are well worth it.

[us_matrix]

Hi guys,

Just like to hear some MT-12 tunning experenice from you.
I just ordered one for the TC3. Any tips or somthing i need to be aware of ? Or just simply follow the manual? I heard they are kind of hard to tune?

Thanks

[island-guy]

Well in the three years and three motor I own, all MT-12 based, I'd say it's a great motor! I always run MC-59 plugs and 30% Byron Race fuel. I think it's wise to set the high end first, and keep the low end on the richer side to keep the temperature down. I had an awful experience with my first one because the carb was out of tune and it was difficult to get it even to fire up. Just fire it up out of the box as they are flow checked from the factory and it's pretty fool-proof, I foolishly changed it out of the box :) Make sure it's sealed up air tight and once it's tuned it really stays very consistent. My JP MT-12 is my favorite by far. Although I must admit that the performance gain is very mild, the machined carb, crankshaft, and nice black case are worth the money. Good luck and post your problems here!

[nitrogator]

How does the shaft driven NTC3 handle compared to onroads with one way front ends? My only onroad experience is a Mugen MRX-2 and it handles so well that I can't imagine anything better. Could the NTC3 with a high performance .12 (TR ot MT-12) at least look respectable on a short track against a MRX-2. (I realize though there different scales.) A local police officer clocked the MRX-2 at 63mph across a wide open parking lot, and that's with the head temperature cool enough to grab it and not getting burnt. Could the NTC3 with a high performance .12 and tall gearing ever hope to achieve such speeds? Thanks for any replies.

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by island-guy
Well in the three years and three motor I own, all MT-12 based, I'd say it's a great motor! I always run MC-59 plugs and 30% Byron Race fuel. I think it's wise to set the high end first, and keep the low end on the richer side to keep the temperature down. I had an awful experience with my first one because the carb was out of tune and it was difficult to get it even to fire up. Just fire it up out of the box as they are flow checked from the factory and it's pretty fool-proof, I foolishly changed it out of the box :) Make sure it's sealed up air tight and once it's tuned it really stays very consistent. My JP MT-12 is my favorite by far. Although I must admit that the performance gain is very mild, the machined carb, crankshaft, and nice black case are worth the money. Good luck and post your problems here!

Thanks.....
I just wondering do i need to use hairdryer to preheat the engine case or do i need to loose 1/2 turn of the glow plug when i first the MT-12 engine and during break in?

[FrankyRizzo]

loosening the glow plug will work. Novarossi has default carb settings on there web page if you loose them.

[us_matrix]

I just checked one of the foam tire web site and i see there is a brand called Ellegi, I see there are different numbers like 30, 32, 35,37,40,42,45 etc. Can someone tell me what is each number means?
I am planning to get a few sets of tire for local track use (Delta RC in Antioch, CA) I beleive the track is Asphalt. Which one i should get for front and rear? Is Ellegi a good brand?

Thanks.

[island-guy]

Ellegi, Fast, Best, Treadz, etc. are all labels of GRP racing tires. All the same foam but with different rim patterns. Good stuff :)

[John Crowe]

I was curious if anyone has tried gs medial pro touring tires. They do not require inserts and look like good quality. I wonder what there wear rate is like. I am looking for a long lasting rubber tire for my tc3 for imperfect pavement bashing.

[FrankyRizzo]

The Medial pro's from GS are excellent for loose parking lots. They have great wear and last a long time. The other nice thing is no inserts to fool with.

The numbers you see are a durometer shore rating. The higher the number the harder the compound. I usually go 45 in front and 40 in the rear to start. If I need more grip I can add as needed

[John Crowe]

I thought the tires came in soft, medium and hard ratings. I was planning on getting the hard rating tires for my ntc3. Where can I purchase these tires. The GS Medial Pro touring tires are through Horizon Hobby distributors so the LHS I think should be able to order them I think. I have not seen any online companies carrying them yet, maybe they are too new and have not caught on yet. I think they will work good with out having any inserts to bind up.

[FrankyRizzo]

The ratings were for the foams. The medials do come in 3 types. soft medium and hard.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by John Crowe
I thought the tires came in soft, medium and hard ratings. I was planning on getting the hard rating tires for my ntc3. Where can I purchase these tires. The GS Medial Pro touring tires are through Horizon Hobby distributors so the LHS I think should be able to order them I think. I have not seen any online companies carrying them yet, maybe they are too new and have not caught on yet. I think they will work good with out having any inserts to bind up.

The tires are imported by GS and sold directly to hobby shops, they do not go through Horizon with that product. I've been running these for a while now and will be running the mediums on my NTC3 this weekend. Hands down the best rubber tire I've ever run.

[us_matrix]

MT-12 engine owners...

I heard someone saying that you need to put a 0.1 shim right under the engine head. Did you guys do that ? What is the reason?

[Skribble]

Couple questions:
- Can someone tell me what an estimated top speed is using the recommended OS engine?
- Would NTC3 be a good parking lot basher?
- Does anyone that own a NTC3 also own a Impulse? How would the two be comparable in speed & durability?

[FrankyRizzo]

I heard someone saying that you need to put a 0.1 shim right under the engine head. Did you guys do that ? What is the reason?

I ran mine stock and never had any problems. The reason for adding the shim is to lower your compression a tad.

[Nufuhsus]

Does anyone know where I can find the factory needle settings for this engine? I was a little confused and ended up moving the needles thinking they were something else.

Also, I seem to keep blowing my plugs.

Please help.

_//_ Nufuhsus

[Nufuhsus]

Ok...It don't run yet but it looks pretty good for my first kit!!

What do you think?

_//_ Nufuhsus

[Nufuhsus]

Photo 1

[Nufuhsus]

Photo 2

[Nufuhsus]

Photo 3

[FrankyRizzo]

Does anyone know where I can find the factory needle settings for this engine? I was a little confused and ended up moving the needles thinking they were something else.

High speed 4 turns out from tight
Mid (brass on end of carb housing) set flush
Low speed (end of slide) turn out till flush with linkage attachment then turn in 3 1/2 turns

Hope this helps

[FrankyRizzo]

Nufuhsus

Clip that bumper just inside of the body.

Looks great!!

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
Nufuhsus

Clip that bumper just inside of the body.

Looks great!!
Thanks for the settings...I have looked everywhere and they all seem so vauge.

Thanks for the koodos on my job!! I was thinking about clipping the bumper but I didn't have the tools to do the job correctly. this body I cut around the tabs, but the next I will shave the bumper.

Any thought on my plug problem? I have the OFNA starter box and the glow plug igniter is attached to it. I think it may be too hot. I hooked up a new plug and it went bright red. I mean BRIGHT red! I put it in the head and nothing. I have been trying to start this thing for 2 days and no luck. I am wearing a rut in my starter wheel. I almost...ALMOST...wish I went electric. LOL

Thanks again.

_//_ Nufuhsus

[Nufuhsus]

Anyone have a clue how to keep my steering servo from going further than my wheels will turn?

_//_ Nufuhsus

[FrankyRizzo]

I use a pair of dykes (wire cutters) to cut it. It's going to shatter once you touch anything anyways. I am in the process of making some out of a stronger material.

On the glow plug issue. Try a stand alone igniter. Sometimes the panel can have too much juice. Go to Radio Shack and get a D size rechargeable. I think they are 4500 mah. Take the igniter thingy from the power panel and solder it to the D cell. Voila! a glow plug heater that you only need to charge every 3 months. Never had any problems with it going dead and it's a steady 1.2 volts.

[FrankyRizzo]

Anyone have a clue how to keep my steering servo from going further than my wheels will turn?

Get a radio that you can dial down the steering travel. Futaba has the knob above the throttle trigger that you can do that.

[Nufuhsus]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo


Get a radio that you can dial down the steering travel. Futaba has the knob above the throttle trigger that you can do that.

Cool...I did notice a knob to turn down the juice.

Thoughts on what glow plug for the MT-12 with 20% fuel?

As far as the radio, I am running a JR XR3. I havent read the manual (we don't need no stinking manual). Thought I would find the answer here...and I did :)

thanks for all your help.

_//_ Nufuhsus

[us_matrix]

Hi,

My TC3 should be in next week...
I just found a web site called Hexscrews and they have a conversion set of hex screws for TC3.
Has anyone of you guys tried it? Should i get a set $17.95 to replace the stock screws?

http://www.hexcrews.com/

[FrankyRizzo]

Thoughts on what glow plug for the MT-12 with 20% fuel?

I ran a Macoy #8

As far as Hex' go I would go stainless steel hexs if you can. The kit comes with steel ones already. I did mine and I like them. Here's a pic if you want more let me know.

[hdcchrome]

Hey Frankie,

I really like your TC3, where did you get it? The bumper on these cars needs some serious re-engineering, I agree!

us_matrix

Thanks for the URL on the screws!!!!!

[FrankyRizzo]

Some guy in TX.

I heard that after he sold me this one he saw the error in his ways and bought another one.

[hdcchrome]

:D

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo


I ran a Macoy #8

As far as Hex' go I would go stainless steel hexs if you can. The kit comes with steel ones already. I did mine and I like them. Here's a pic if you want more let me know.


do they come in different colors?

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by hdcchrome

I really like your TC3, where did you get it? The bumper on these cars needs some serious re-engineering, I agree!


AE made the bumper wide so the arms wouldn't break everytime you clipped a wall. All you have to do is take a little bit of material off so it doesn't stick out past the body.

[chem]

I got hit pretty harsd this past weekend during the main and well my pipe is pretty much toast. Anyone have any luck with other pipes besides the stock pipe. By the way I have a side exhaust os cvrx. Looking for a good combo of torque and rpm.

[Nufuhsus]

Ok...got a new plug and the engine starts...but...the thing screams! I tried the settings you suggested frankie and the drive shaft was gettting engaged...idle way too high...so I turned some screws and now it is completly f*c*ed. There are like4 screws to adjust the carb!! one is under the mid range screw and I thought it was to tighten the carb to the crank case. that needle is all the way in. my high needle feels tight no matter which way I turn it. I am thinking of backing it out all the way and turning it till it gets just snug and turning that needle below the mid to flush. Also I can turn the low end screw completly out and it makes no differance.

Sorry if this makes little sence.

Any help appreciated. Too few hours in a day....

_//_ Nufuhsus

[Nufuhsus]

That last screw (below mid range) sets how far the slide carb can go...I had it all the way in makeing my idle to wide. I cant test my theory now and wont be able till, I hope , Sunday...Monday evening at the latest.

Wish me luck fellas.
_//_ Nufuhsus

[FrankyRizzo]

You got it!

[Nufuhsus]

Very cool...I want to drive it!!!! LOL

[clemsnfan]

Will the CVEC tuned pipe work on my O.S CV-RX and if so will there be a worthwhile performance increase?

[FastEddy]

Starting to build my NTC3 next week.
Iv been in R/C for a long time but new to the NTC3.

Any suggested hop-ups or mods I should consider while building?

[FrankyRizzo]

Front:
shocks 60 wt
#3 piston
springs yellow
Rear:
shocks 40 wt
#3 piston
springs red

Front sway bar Blade type
rear sway bar
Lightweight clutch bell
lightweight 2 speed
lightweight first speed housing
The Ti Hardcore Chassis works very nicely.

And the blue turbo drive shaft. (just kidding!)

That should get you started.

[FastEddy]

From what I see the weight seems to be the issue.
What advantage will I get with the Ti Hardcore Chassis over the stock?
Thanks for the shock info.

[atm92484_3]

Franky, you don't need any of that stuff; its a waste of money. Eddy, just get the steering bearing kit, some other weights of shock oils and springs along with some tires and you should be set to go. As for weight, it is in no way an issue (both weight as in balance and weight as in weight of the car).

Clem, it should fit just fine.

[FrankyRizzo]

I like it because the weight is planted low and and it seems to have a more solid feel. With the free rolling characteristics of the car it seems to dig better with out getting sluggish.

My opinion.

[FastEddy]

Everyone’s opinions are appreciated.
I’m not a newbee to R/C just to the NTC3.

I know that with some kits there are obvious flaws that should be dealt with during the original assembly. From what I hear the NTC3 is competitive out of the box with a competent driver.
At least I will have one of the two. :D

Shocks and tires are never ending tuning issues depending on the track ya-da, ya-da….

Is the steering bearing kit just bearings to replace a bushing set or are there other parts to get?

Are there any other recommended up-grades or hop-ups?

[tOrcHed Lh]

the steering rack bearing kit comes with 4 bearings that replace the bushings.. you can also get the brake cam bearings if you like, i don't have them and many have said they didnt' notice a difference.

there aren't any other really necessary hop ups.. but if you want buy more... graphite radio tray, titanium turbuckles, titanium pivot balls, carbon upgrade set etc... i think the ti pivot balls would give you the most bang for your buck.

o and if you don't alreayd, get a high speed servo.

[atm92484_3]

Defiently a high speed servo along with the GT Slipper Clutch Spring to stiffen the steering servo saver. The graphite upperdeck does stiffen up what little flex there is and it looks sweet (but its $35 for the sweetness).

[FastEddy]

Here are the servos (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXATE5&P=7) Im looking at.
Any comments?

I cant seem to find the graphite upper deck listed anywhere, can someone throw me a link?

[tOrcHed Lh]

if you can afford the servo get it!!

here's the graphite radio tray:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBML3&P=7

i also suggest a good set off hex drivers because they're nice on your screws and your fingers:
http://www.sslorder.com/speedtechrc/75.html

just get the individual ones... you'll need the 4 standard sizes:
.05, 1/16, 3/32, 5/64... only 20 bucks for the 4...

BTW i think speedtech RC has best selection of NTC3 parts (well atleast same as tower) and it's all layed out nicely per car. they also have great combos with tires... and no i don't work for them haha

[jason102276]

mt-12 settings try the low end needle the one where the linkage attaches should be set with the carb in the idle position about 2 turns out from snug the midrange needle on the opposite side its gold should be flush with the slot from side to side and the high speed needle should also be flush about almost 5 turns out remember unless carb is overheated it will almost always start rich but if carb gets too hot it wont these are my basic settings to start from when i tune my engine every weekend the weather here is usually hot and humid and humidity makes a really big difference in tuning and we race at night were the temp may drop 10-20 degrees also

[nitrogator]

I have a short shaft .12 O.S. TR that's in my RC-10GT and I'am wondering if it will work in the NTC3. The engine is kind of overkill for my local track so I thought it would work well in the NTC3. Thanks.

[tOrcHed Lh]

yes the TR WILL fit... all short shaft and SG shaft engines will fit NTC3.. infact the TR is probabaly the most popular engine for the NTC3 as well as the CV-R. don't know why tho cuz i dont' haev either. i be running a FE. w0000000t

[TC3Geek]

Hey guys, first of all I want to thank those of you who listened to and answered all my newbie questions about building my first RC car which was also my first nitro car as well as only the 2nd RC car I've ever owned. Associated's instrucitions were great and it was pretty easy to put together.

I've been running my car for a few months and finally had my first major accidents. I went nearly full-speed into a curb. Not a pretty sight. Then I was broadsided by a HPI RTR (piece o' poop... hehe). I broke one of the front suspension arms and also bent my drive shaft. The suspension arm is really no problem, but the drive shaft worries me. Can a head-on impact bend the drive shaft? I don't see how. I bought a new driveshaft and installed it, but I want to get some ideas from you guys as to what in the heck could have caused the driveshaft to bend. I'm asking because if it's something I can look into or correct before having the same thing happen again, I want to do so.

Anyway, thanks again to everyone who offered help. This is a great car and lots of fun.

[tOrcHed Lh]

my cousin had a large crash my my ntc3 last week.. he pegged a pole at full throttle and clipeed the right wheel. he busted a hub carrier, a arm, and pivot ball. it was a $20 crash, but i kept all the spares haha..

anyway i don't really know what could have casued the drive shaft to bend... make sure your diff case and front chasis braces aren't cracked.. i do know that the drive shaft is exteremly light and hollow so it could bend easily under mild pressure.. but i don't think the factory team one is any differn't. just anodized blue i think... anyway just inspect the fron for any other breakage and don't hit any more things!!

did you break the front bumper?? trinity already has a new front bumper for the NTC3, it might just be bigger foam bumper but i'm not sure.. but i know RPM is coming out with a new front bumper assembly and is shipping out soon. so that would probaably be a better buy than the trinity.

[TC3Geek]

hey torched, when i put the new drive shaft in, I looked at the differential, the housing, front suspension and the bumper. The bumper is nicked up, but it's still solid with no cracks, breaks, or anything. Everything else I looked at seemed fine with no problems. I have no idea what could cause this, but oh well... I'll watch out for it.

[FrankyRizzo]

Check to see if your chassis is tweaked. You could of actually flexed the chassis enough to bend the shaft.

BTW R&D is underway for a better bumper to be available soon. Along with other products. Never mind the fuzzies.

[TC3Geek]

FrankyRizzo,

Thanks for the suggestion. I never thought of that, but I can see how it would be likely especially at the speed this thing impacted. But what was weird was that the bumper held up. I would think the bumper would break with that violent of an impact, but it held up.

[Zohnmon]

ive been running the trinity big basher bumper for the ntc3 for 2 weeks now, the foam part is blue and the same size as the stock foam, the kydex part is thicker, and beefier around the 3 rubber grommet holes. it doesnt have the extra wings like the stock one.
i have taken a few whacks that would have broken the stock piece and the trinity bumper held up fine. :p

[FrankyRizzo]

BTW how much was the Trinity bumper?

[tOrcHed Lh]

it's 10 bucks... i do'nt know which one to get rpm or trinity.. i'm gonna wait to what the rpm one looks like when it comes out.

[TC3Geek]

I was thinking about using a Motor Saver air filter on my OS CVR-X. Has anybody used these? I've read an article that said as much as a 10% performance boost can be had. Also, they have 2 kinds of filters... one that's a straight connection to the carb and another that's has a "10 degree elbow". What's the deal with the elbow? Airflow is better? They're both the same price on Tower.

[tOrcHed Lh]

i've heard great things about the motor savers air filter.. they will give you more power.. the elbow is only necessary if the filter gets in the way of somethign...

i'm holidng out a for a chrome k&n air filter... those are 20 bucks tho haha

NOTE: you can/should use wd-40 as the air filter oil with motorsvaers air filters. cuz they have the fine mesh on outside.

[atm92484_3]

TC3, they give more power since there is less restriction in the airflow. The only way I could see this possible would be with a reduction in filtration. Since I run in dusty conditions, I am using an AE filter, which is more than enough to stop any crud from making it into the 12TR.

[Zohnmon]

the trinity big basher is $10

[HauntedMyst]

Apparently, RPM is coming out with a new front bumper that they will guarantee for life.

[Tom Hutt]

There is a pic of the bumper over on the HPI forum.
It is in the non HPI car area.

[atm92484_3]

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/pics/hires/80275.jpg

It looks really good. I know what I'm getting next...

[Zohnmon]

ahah that looks nice if and when my trinity goes i8 know what i'll be getting next:D

[clemsnfan]

I am running a CV-RX .12 in my NTC3, when I bought the engine it listed a fuel filter under accessories needed but neither the engine instructions or car directions say anything about one. Do I need a fuel filter and if so where do I install it? Thanks.

[FrankyRizzo]

It's recommended to keep crud out of your carb. The TC3 tank has a stone filter in it so I don't use one. If you do want to use one it goes in line between the tank and the carb.

[atm92484_3]

I would still reccomend running an inline filter eventhough the tank has a built in stone filter (better safe than sorry :)).

[FrankyRizzo]

Just remember that the more items or joints in the line more chance for air and error to happen.

Keep it simple and you will have less problems

[clemsnfan]

Thanks for the tip on the fuel filter , but I have another problem now. I can't get the damn thing to start. I have an OS .12 CV-RX with a 10C slide carb. Any dumb newbie pitfalls I could be running into? I have a glowplug starter and am following the starting directions in the manual. Any help would be appreciated since I am pretty frustrated. Thanks.:confused:

[FrankyRizzo]

pull or non-pull?

[clemsnfan]

pull start....

[atm92484_3]

First, check and make sure all the needles are set properly and make sure the idle is high enough to start a new engine. Next, make sure the plug glows and the igniter is charged. Finally, try priming a little bit. New engines, especially ABC ones, can be a pain in the butt to start for the first time. Once you get it broken-in, you'll love it.

Franky, chances of airleaks in a decent filter are slim to none. Plus if air can get in through the filter, chances are fuel will be leaking out also.

[HauntedMyst]

I'm am in the process of finishing the break in on my NTC3 and OS .12 CV-R and have a few questions:

1. How the heck do you guys clean these things? I haven't run nitro in like 5 or 7 years and the thing is covered in oil, grime and dust. I've heard some of the sprays can damage plastic, but their has to be an easier way then disassembling the thing after every race day.

2. How do you know when the 2 speed has engaged? I certainly couldn't hear mine and its set for the stock position? I've heard its really quite, but I heard and saw nothing. It was fast and I hadn't gone full throttle yet.

3. On the CV-R, when I've been running it, and then pull over the car to check the tempurature, and then hit the throttle, it seems to bog down a bit and then take off. If I am reading the manual correctly, I need to close the low end needle slightly. Correct?

[speedydave]

1. I use an air compressor to get all the dust off my truck(my FTGT..I don't have an NTC3). Then, i take a towel and wipe off all the grime and everything. I also use a toothbrush(make sure it's an old one!!!) to get off some of the harder to reach stuff. Then, every once in a while(every few race days), I take the engine out, and the gas tank out, and some of the other stuff(for you, the radio tray, tank, and engine), and repeat what you usually do, but now you get almost the entire chassis clean. I have never used any nitro wash of any kind, and my truck stays pretty clean, especially considering our track is pretty dusty, so there's a lot to stick to the truck. I haven't needed to do this yet, but I've heard that using some WD40 once in a while on the plastic parts will get them looking new, but I've never done this, so I don't know for sure...

2. Can' help ya there...your shift setting could be off, so it could be stuck in second, locked into first, or just not getting enough rev's to shift...OR it could be shifting and you can't hear it.

3. Slow take-off from a stop(or just slow acceleration) for any nitro car is one of the easiest-to-see signs your engine's low end is rich. Lean out the bottom end a little(close it off) and you will notice the car accelerates faster, and as you continue leaning it out, it will continue to accelerate faster. However, watch out how far you lean the bottom end out...you don't want to run too lean. Just remember that you should always see blue smoke coming from the exhaust. Temperature means next to nothing...my friend's T-Maxx was running at 310, but had blue smoke coming from his exhaust...basically, the hotter the engine runs, the shorter it's life span will be.

[atm92484_3]

1. I just use a paintbrush or compressed air to dust it off then I wipe the nitro grime off with paper towels. It works pretty well, but an air compressor would defiently be easier.

2. Since its at the stock setting, it is probably safe to say it is shifting at a low RPM since the 12 CV-R is a powerful engine. I had to tighten my shift point atleast 1/2 a turn with my 12 TR just to delay the shift enough so I could year it. Try tightening it in 1/4 turn intervals (make sure you do both screws) and see if that helps.

3. Dave summed it up pretty well, but remember that the low-end also helps cool the engine at idle. I would first tune the top-end then fine tune the low-end since leaning the high-end needle will also lean the low-end needle.

[tOrcHed Lh]

does anybody have a trinity rx pack?
i want to know which one of these will work or if both of them wil:
RC10GT pack:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVG14&P=7

1/8 onroad flat:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVG16&P=7

i want one of these flat packs becuase i'd like to use it in another car if i ever decide to switch. plus i thinkt the weigt of the car would be more evenly distributed.. if none of these work i'll guess i'll get a hump, but plz tell me if any of these will fit for sure.

thanks

[TC3Kamikaze]

Hey tOrcHed get the flat pack it seems the one most used. Course my LHS was out of both. Got the flat pack in an order for next week.
TC3

[tOrcHed Lh]

thanks i also just realized that RCCA use a 5 cell flat pack when they reviewed the NTC3.. So i'll go with the 1/8 thanks

[HauntedMyst]

If you need a receiver pack, contact this guy

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1737806776


He'll configure it for you with a charger and adapter plug for about $35. He ships quick and is a great resource.

[tOrcHed Lh]

for a charger i was looking at the superbrain.. because i'll be able to peak my rx packs, glow starter, and tx packs if i ever get one.. as well as 6 cell packs if i ever get an electric.

thanks tho.

[jason102276]

2 speed setting can be tricky my guess is that if your not using full throttle yet it isnt shifting it must reach a certain speed to shift there are 4 screws on the 2 speed the 2 with springs black and 2 over the balls silver the 2 silver ones change how smooth the shift is screwing them in pushing shoes out makes for a really smooth shift problem is its hard to tell if it shifts to make it easier to set i back the 2 silver allens out some making it shift harder and easier to set i use an mt-12 engine and i believe my 2 speed is about 3 turns out on the black allens maybe even further and mt-12 engines are really fast so for your cv you would probably have to be even further out also the 2 speed seems to take a few runs to break in and untill your engine is broken in i wouldnt even attempt to set it

[tOrcHed Lh]

i'm running an FE, stock gearing, and i can hear it shift very clearly. i havent' kept track of how many turns out i am, but i'm gussing more than 3 1/2. right now it's shifting at like 3/4 throttle. what point of throttle do you guys like it to shift at?
do you guys recconment tighting the 2 silver allen screws to spread the shoes apart silghtly for smoother shifting?
thanks

[FrankyRizzo]

You should set your shift points to how you drive and according to the track you run. I run on the same track all the time so I have mine set to shift about 2/3 throttle because we run on a long track and I want better milage too. Try not to have it shift on an apex of a turn because it can throw the car a bit. Optimum would be as you come upon rpms and your car starts heading into a straight.

[tOrcHed Lh]

yea but i don't race yet because thre's no track around here.

BTW, your bumper hasnt' come yet, i hope it comes today.
thanks

[FrankyRizzo]

tracking number says:

Current Status: Delivered.
Delivered on: Jun 7 2002 9:44 am
Delivered to: Left with Receptionist
Signed for by: M CRUZ

[diamonddawg]

Can ne1 assist me with a tire question, I have a NitroTC3 and plan to race at my LHS this sunday and need a new set of tires. I asked the people at the LHS and they said they have not figured out what really hooks up on there track yet and would be getting some new stuff in this week. it's a normal parking lot or asphalt track and I am not sure if it prepared or not but could call and ask.

[FrankyRizzo]

Try the Medial Pro medium compund tires from GS. That is a good start.

[TC3Kamikaze]

What track is it? You could try rcfiles.com a few guys from Texas are on that board and might know of some tires to try.
TC3

[HauntedMyst]

I'm running on a fairly small track, so I doubt I will want it to shift at all. I just want to make sure I'm not stuck in second. I'll double check my settings.

btw, you guys are right, the front bumper blows. A couple of taps and it snapped.

here is the RPM bumper http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/newprod/ascparts.htm#NTC3%20Bumper

[FrankyRizzo]

I have some awesome bumpers available also. Drop me an email if you would like one.
rotorhead@lvcm.com

[TC3Geek]

One thing I noticed on the Associated's forums is that their tech support said you shouldn't hear anything shift when the 2 speed engages. You should only be able to tell when it's engaged by the sound of the engine. Comments?

[TC3Kamikaze]

I barely hear mine. The only way I can really tell is the burst of speed it has when it engages.

[tOrcHed Lh]

well it finally happened... my pullstarter basically broke, not the spring or rope, but it starterd slipping. i took it apart, re-wound the spring, and put it back together, but there wasnt' enuff tension to pull the rope back in.. anyway i'm sick of the pullstarter, yesterday i couldn't even get my FE started because it was so hot out it lost a lot of compressoin.. BTW the engine has plenty compression on a cool day. (is that normal for a FE).

so i thought that instead of spending 20 bucks for a new pullstarter, i'd spend another 60 or 70 and just get a starter box because it will probably save me money in the long run.. i'm looking at 2 boxes:

Ofna 1/10 with acessories:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAXU2&P=7

or the AE starter box.

i'd like your opinions on both

i curently dont' have a charger to charge 12 volt batteries or 7.2 volt packs so i can go either way.. what do you suggest i get? i think the stick pack way is about 70 dollars more... i am kind of on a budget. what do you guys think?

one last thing.... do i need the non pull start engine mounts and flywheel?? and are you guys using the stock flywheel becaues i heard that it chews up the starter box wheel pretty quick

sorry for so many quetsion.. THANKS

[TC3Kamikaze]

That's the box I have. I got it and the hobbico charger for $10. No complaints from me it starts my car. I would have waited for the AE but I hate waiting...:D One thing though you have to reverse the polarity so it'll spin to start the car.
The pullstart mounts will work same with the flywheel. I still haven't order the nonpull yet. My wheel isn't chewed up except when I press down on the car to hard. I did dremel the opening around the frame of the car. Basically an angle on each of the edges.

[tOrcHed Lh]

ok thanks for all the info... i dont mind waiting for the AE box to come out... the boxes are about the same price but the AE doesn't haev a 12 volt battery like the ofna one does.

what did you dremel?

and does anyone know if HPI makes a back plate for the FE? or should i just put the pull starter back on without the 1 way bearing to seal the crank up? or how should i seal it up? thanks

[TC3Kamikaze]

I put about a 45 degree angle around the opening where the starter wheel hits the flywheel. I do that on all my nitro cars so the edges don't hit the starter wheel. I'll try to borrow a friends digi cam this weekend and get some shots of my car posted.

[tOrcHed Lh]

oooh i understand... you dremel that angle so it kinda conforms to the starter box wheel that makes sense...

any ideas on how to seal up the engine because hpi doens't make a backplate? thanks

[speedyOB-4]

Hi,
I bought a nitro TC3 2 days ago and put a RB 5-port in it. I'm sure this question has already been asked, but why do the settings on the carburetor change? My idle is lower, and the engine just doesn't seem like it is performing as well. I have herd a lot of stuff about the fuel tank, is this my problem? If you have any suggestions, please post. Or, if anyone has an RB 5-port in their NTC3, please post the settings on your carburetor. Also, if I can hear the differentials when I let off the throttle, should I put more grease in the diffs?

Thanks!

-Andy

[FrankyRizzo]

Try the tank fix as described earlier in the threads. It sould maintain idle better. As far as the settings, try your factory default to start.

Are you sure that it is the differentials? Could be a gear mesh problem. Like a high pitched whine? Make sure the pinions and the spurs mesh evenly. It is easy to get the engine a tad cockeyed and have some mesh problems.

[TC3Kamikaze]

tOrcHed
Yup that's it. The cutting down of the edges was something I picked up, also saw it in RCaction too. On the engine sorry man I never dealt with HPI other than their bodies.
I think AE should do something about this tank issue. Some guys have problems some don't. I'm one of the ones that did. And and a hyper .15 no less. Didn't want to run right, raw fuel in the pipe, run times that made my electric seem like a better choice. I broke down and did the mod on the tank and relocated the pressure line. Guess what no more problems. Speedy you might want to try the tank mod and see what happens. Like Franky said are you sure it's your diffs?

[tOrcHed Lh]

i relocated the presure nipple to the cap of the fuel tank and i've no problems except for my FE occasionly dieing.. but i think that's the engien problem not the car's....

i think the starter box will be my bday present seeing that my parents haven't got me a gift yet and my bday was April 7th!! that's gotta count for something.....

[clemsnfan]

I have not been able to get my O.S CV-RX .12 to start and it seems that fuel isn't coming from the tank. I have the fuel lines per the manual. What am I doing wrong? REAAAAALLLLY frustrated, please help.

[FrankyRizzo]

Have you tried putting your finger over the exhaust outlet for a couple of pulls to prime the fuel line?

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by TC3Geek
One thing I noticed on the Associated's forums is that their tech support said you shouldn't hear anything shift when the 2 speed engages. You should only be able to tell when it's engaged by the sound of the engine. Comments?


well i can hear mine every time and i dont think there is something wrong. actually, i prefer to hear the "click". it just sounds better.

[FrankyRizzo]

well i can hear mine every time and i dont think there is something wrong. actually, i prefer to hear the "click". it just sounds better.

I hear a faint click in mine and I know it is fine. I had the Kawahara 2 shoe in my MTX-2 and it sounds the same. Under load the change in RPMs is the way to really tell.

[FrankyRizzo]

I put about a 45 degree angle around the opening where the starter wheel hits the flywheel.

I have to applaud Hardcore for making the flywheel opening bigger on their chassis. It makes a hugh difference. I did bevel my stock chassis and it did go easier on the starter wheel.

[speedyOB-4]

Does anybody have a list of some spare parts I should by? I just bought a NTC3 and would like to know what parts are most likely to break, or what parts are the best to upgrade.

Thanks!

[nitrothugg]

i have fitted a torq .21 in my NTC3 after a day of hacking. i had to dremel the slots in the chasis. then i had to cut the crankshaft down so i could get the proper gear mesh. the chasis handle had to go so i could route the exhaust and pipe around the other side of the engine

[nitrothugg]

1

[nitrothugg]

2

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by speedyOB-4
Does anybody have a list of some spare parts I should by? I just bought a NTC3 and would like to know what parts are most likely to break, or what parts are the best to upgrade.

Thanks!

The NTC3 is a pretty durable car, but I would reccomend having some extra arms, pivot balls, spur gears, and front bumpers on hand.

Not too shabby nitro. Can you get some more pics of the mounts?

[nitrothugg]

i used the non-pull mounts but i was only able to get it to hold down with only 2 screws instead of 4. risky business but after testing it today, it holds up if you use thread lock of course.

[atm92484_3]

Thats kind of weird. Maybe you could get an aluminum rod and make custom mounts or something. There might be too much stress there for just 2 screws.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
I have some awesome bumpers available also. Drop me an email if you would like one.
rotorhead@lvcm.com

Post em up will ya?

[FrankyRizzo]

I did on page 26

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35782&perpage=25&pagenumber=26

[speedydave]

How do you guys think a CV with O'Donnell head would fare in an NTC3, for racing? It's non pullstart, and in my GT right now...Just tossing around ideas...

[atm92484_3]

It isn't a CV-R or a TR but it should still be good.

[boricua racing]

CAN SOMEONE TELL ME A GOOD SET UP FOR SMOOTH CONCRETE TRACK?

[FrankyRizzo]

Smooth track high traction
Front:
shocks 60 wt
#3 piston
springs yellow
sway bar blade type 60 degrees
2 degrees neg camber
0 degrees toe
tires 45 shore 26mm
9 degree caster
4mm droop
5.5mm ride heigth

Rear
shocks 40 wt
#3 piston
springs red
sway bar wire type
3 degrees neg camber
2 degrees to in
tires 40 shore 30mm
4mm droop
5.5mm ride heigth

Both diffs set up like manual

Lightweight clutch bell
lightweight 2 speed
lightweight first speed housing

That should get you started.

[boricua racing]

THANK YOU!!!

[A-SD1]

Hey Franky, I wasn't able to make it out this last sunday to the SilverBowl. My NTC3 was not complete, no engine. I just bought a 12TR from Tower Hobbies tonight. So i will try to break the engine in on Saturday & be out to hopefully do some racing on Sunday. Im the guy that e-mailed about the bumper, so maybe ill see you ther. Are you going to be at the track on Sunday? What time does the racing start 8:30 am. Let me know whats going on man.

[Zohnmon]

has anybody else tried the AE front oneway?
i barely brushed a board on sunday and mine broke,
i dont know what kind of oneway bearings AE is using but they are junk.
anybody interested in running a oneway DONT buy the AE.
wait till an aftermarket company comes out with one and get that.
i feel i got ripped off by AE paying $60 for a part that cant hold up to real racing.:mad:

[FrankyRizzo]

I personally do not run the one way. But Yokomo makes and aftermaket stronger one for it.


click here and at the bottom of the page:
http://www.sslorder.com/speedtechrc/172.html

[atm92484_3]

I'm shock AE hasn't fixed this oneway problem since it seems so common. Maybe try emailing them and seeing what they say. :confused:

[FrankyRizzo]

I'm not shocked. Look at the gas tank fix.

[speedydave]

Well, I think I'll be mostly bashing with the car...and actually, I've been thinking about buying either a T-Maxx or a 1/8 buggy, and if I get the T-Maxx, I want to buy that XTM .21 conversion and an Ofna/Picco ps engine, so I guess I could buy a pullstart for the TRX Pro 15, and run it in the NTC3, just to bash and occasionally race. How's that sound?

[atm92484_3]

Doesn't sound too bad Dave.

Franky, there isn't a problem with the fuel tank (atleast not for me). On my 12TR, I ran into no tuning difficulties with the stock pressure line location. I changed it though just to see if there was a difference; nothing noticable. I have a feeling it may be related to the engine. Notice how almost everyone who has had a problem has been running a Nova or Nova-derived engine. I'm not saying the stock tanks are the best, but there is nothing wrong with them. Also there haven't been any reports of the "pros" modding their tanks (unless I've missed it).

jmo

[tOrcHed Lh]

well i wish there was NO problem with the stock tank... cuz my FE just randomly cuts out sometimes when i let it idle... it could be the tank/pressure line setup, engien tuning, or engine leaks... i just wish the tank problem didnt' exist so i could mark it off my list of problems... anyhoo i'm gonna get a ofna starter box soon.. no more pulling that daaaamn rope.

[TUCRACEMAN]

So......Have I missed anything? :D
~Dave

[FrankyRizzo]

atm92484_3

You are right about the Nova coincidence, but I just don't like when you tilt the car on its side and all the fuel runs out through the pipe. With the pressure return going into the bottom of the tank it create's a siphon effect. As far as the pro's go they get paid to drive not R&D. We the public create other than perfect conditions more often than not and find weakness' faster.

The saying is true: Make something idiot proof and they will build a better idiot.

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
atm92484_3

... As far as the pro's go they get paid to drive not R&D. We the public create other than perfect conditions more often than not and find weakness' faster.

The saying is true: Make something idiot proof and they will build a better idiot.


i think thats a good point myself. i'm sure they are not driving theirs in some dusty lot with cracked pavement and loose cigarette butts.

[Rookie Solara]

Just want to know where to buy NTC-3 online the best price..? Speedtechrc.com?

Thanks

Rookie Solara

[nitrothugg]

ultimatehobbies.com (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/) have them for $254.

[us_matrix]

Hi guys,

I just started to break in my new MT-12 engine last night on my TC3. I was able to start and idle the engine fine for the first 3 tanks without any problem, But when i tried to start the engine in 4th tank, the flywheel won't move any at all and i can't start it. I removed the engine from the chassis and try again, i was able to turn the flywheel. I put it back and started the engine to finish the 4th tank. But when i tried to start the 5th tank, it happens again. The flywheel can't move at all. Do you guys have this problem? Is this normal for a brand new engine? If it is, What do i need to do to turn the flywheel and start the engine?

Thanks.

[Rookie Solara]

For new engine, yes, it does happen.

You can try this, remove the engine heat sink and plug, simply TAP (very very easy on tapping) the piston, you should be able to tap the piston down and the fly wheel should be able to move.

But if after 10 tank of gas and the piston still stuck, you have to return the engine.

Sometimes, turn the plug counter-clockwise like one turn and let go some pressure and start the engine, that might work as well.

Rookie Solara

[jason102276]

i think the mt-12 does that during break-in if your just idling through tanks i took mine out the box idled 1 tank and started driving about 1/2 throttle this might not be the best way to break in but i dont care i have never had a problem with either of my mt-12 in over a year and countless gallons of fuel these are really bulletproof engines i only know 1 guy who blew one up and he was a newbie who leaned it way out we are even sometimes getting temps over 300 with no problems

[meldridge]

Hey tOrcHed Lh,

I don't know what engine you are using, but I have the OS TR 12 and the OFNA True Start box with the twin 540 motors could not turn the engine fast enought to start it. The only way I had to start it is by bouncing the car up and down on the wheel so that the wheel would not be engaged when the motor started to ramp up to starting speed.

I even put two more powerful 17 turn motors in it and it still did not work effectively.

I am waiting on the AE box. I have used it and it works great. I am using a loaner OFNA (pink one) with the single big motor and it works well also.

Just my 2 cents...............

Also, instead of modifying my stock AE gas tank, I put a Mugen Seiki Tank lid on my tank and it works great. I also heard that Yokomo fits well.

[FrankyRizzo]

Meldridge

I put a Mugen Seiki Tank lid

Sweet idea. I had an MTX2 and it was a nice cap. I will have to do that.

The AE is the nicest box I have ever had. ehobbydeals.com has them for 78.95. The only prob I had was the motor was intermitent and AE sent me out a new one ASAP. No more problems. I also used a 12volt 3 amp hour compact battery that is lighter than the usual 12 volt gel cell and cheaper.

[meldridge]

Did you cram the 12volt battery into the AE box or did yourun wires outside?

Also, you will have to make some mods to the Mugen cap like, enlarge the pin holes on the AE tank to accept the Mugen pin, shim the new cap to center it, enlarge the internal diameter of the Mugen cap to accept the AE orange O-Ring and glue the same internal piece to the top of the Mugen cap.

Good luck, It was a 30 minute process, but works well now.

You might go the Yokomo route, I hear it has a better fit with no mods.

[FrankyRizzo]

It is a 12 volt 3000 mah battery. Not as big as the regular ones but hell how often do you run out a 7000 mah gel cel. They have them at Batteries Plus for $18. I have a pic that shows how it fits. I used servo tape to hold it in and the connector you see is hard wired in for my 12volt charger.

[meldridge]

Looks good. I will be doing that rather than the dual 7.2 volt packs.

Thanks,

[FrankyRizzo]

The charger is cool too in the fact it fast charges to 14 volts the maintains with a trickle. So you can leave it plugged in all the time. Be carefull to cover the exposed leads with tape or it will fry if it comes in contact with that sides.

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Hi guys,

I just started to break in my new MT-12 engine last night on my TC3. I was able to start and idle the engine fine for the first 3 tanks without any problem, But when i tried to start the engine in 4th tank, the flywheel won't move any at all and i can't start it. I removed the engine from the chassis and try again, i was able to turn the flywheel. I put it back and started the engine to finish the 4th tank. But when i tried to start the 5th tank, it happens again. The flywheel can't move at all. Do you guys have this problem? Is this normal for a brand new engine? If it is, What do i need to do to turn the flywheel and start the engine?

Thanks.


did you see if it might be flooded? if i'm reading your post right, when i can't budge my flywheel, it is flooded.

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by nitrothugg



did you see if it might be flooded? if i'm reading your post right, when i can't budge my flywheel, it is flooded.


How did you get the fuel out if it is flooded? Some people saying that put it on the starter box and let the fuel come out from the glow plug hole, but i don't understand that becasue the flywheel won't turn at all.

[speedydave]

You take out the glow plug first, THEN crank the engine...

[tOrcHed Lh]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
The charger is cool too in the fact it fast charges to 14 volts the maintains with a trickle. So you can leave it plugged in all the time. Be carefull to cover the exposed leads with tape or it will fry if it comes in contact with that sides.

what charger is that?

becuase i'm getting the black ofna box and it comes with a 12 volt battery and the only thing i need is a charger... thanks

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by us_matrix



How did you get the fuel out if it is flooded? Some people saying that put it on the starter box and let the fuel come out from the glow plug hole, but i don't understand that becasue the flywheel won't turn at all.



so even after you have removed the glow plug and then put it on the starter box, the flywheel still won't turn?

[speedydave]

Torched Lh, I have the Ofna True Start for my FTGT, and I bought an $11 Hobbico overnight charger for the battery...

[tOrcHed Lh]

thanks but i wana know what charger franky is using.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by meldridge
I don't know what engine you are using, but I have the OS TR 12 and the OFNA True Start box with the twin 540 motors could not turn the engine fast enought to start it. The only way I had to start it is by bouncing the car up and down on the wheel so that the wheel would not be engaged when the motor started to ramp up to starting speed.


I'm using the same box with the same engine and I'm having no problems. I've found it easier though to allow the motors to spool up then allow the flywheel to touch it. If the engine is new, you are going to need to loosen the plug. Even the most powerful box will probably struggle turning over a new racing engine with the plug tightened down (either that or the rubber wheel will just gear eaten up).

[meldridge]

atm92484_3

I agree. I have only run a gallon and a half through the TR 12. But, I have used the AE box and the Pink Ofna boxes with the larger single motor and they work every single time without any hitches. The True Start just does not have the speed or torque.

I did not know about the plug trick, is that to relieve some of the compression from the new motor and do you tighten it back up after it si started?

[phdeez]

Originally posted by atm92484_3


I'm using the same box with the same engine and I'm having no problems. I've found it easier though to allow the motors to spool up then allow the flywheel to touch it. If the engine is new, you are going to need to loosen the plug. Even the most powerful box will probably struggle turning over a new racing engine with the plug tightened down (either that or the rubber wheel will just gear eaten up).

Yeah, what I did with my Ofna Pink box was actually BYPASS the connection that engages the connection by pushing down, there-for making the switch on the side as what starts the twin 550s. THAT way it'll spool up and get some speed and then I push down my tc3. I can post some pics tonight to show what I'm talking about!

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Hi guys,

I just started to break in my new MT-12 engine last night on my TC3. I was able to start and idle the engine fine for the first 3 tanks without any problem, But when i tried to start the engine in 4th tank, the flywheel won't move any at all and i can't start it. I removed the engine from the chassis and try again, i was able to turn the flywheel. I put it back and started the engine to finish the 4th tank. But when i tried to start the 5th tank, it happens again. The flywheel can't move at all. Do you guys have this problem? Is this normal for a brand new engine? If it is, What do i need to do to turn the flywheel and start the engine?

Thanks.

Hi guys,

Just want to give you some update how i started my new MT-12 when the flywheel won't turn at all. The only way i could turn the flywheel is use Hair Dryer becasue i guess the engine is so new and the pistion will stuck when it move to the top position. What i did was use Hair dryer to heat up the engine for 1 - 2 minutes and then i can turned the flywheel and started it.
Removed glow plug or tried to get out the fuel from glow plug hole did not help at all in my case.

But now my Pink Ofna starter box turning wheel is almost eaten up and i am getting sick and tired of my Pink starter box (The one with the big motor sticking out of the box with only 1 direction ) becasue i have to use both hands and put it on side way to start the car and have hard time to find a good touching point between flywheel and turning wheel every single time.
I am planning to get the Ofna Black true starter box (Twin 540's motor) I think i can set the flywheel in either Horiziontal or
Vertical direction with 12V battery inside right? That's way i can just use one hand to start it.

Thanks.

[tOrcHed Lh]

yea the black ofna box allows the starter wheel to be mounted in both directions... i just got one of ebay for 76 bucks brand new with a charger.... but if you want to turn the flywheel sideways to the box, and have the car running the length of the box, you have to rewire the motor so the starter wheel spins in the right direction... well that's what imax told me... i should get the box next week..

[us_matrix]

Are you guys happy with the Ofna black starter box? Is the twin 540 motor powerful enough to turn the flywheel? I will be using Ofna black box to start my 1/8 buggy as well.

[tOrcHed Lh]

i know atm and imax have the box... i'm just waiting for mine in the mail... i'll let you know what i think when i get it

[RC10T3]

I have one for my nitro tc3, but I havent started it yet. :)
It turns the flywheel though, so it should work. You just have to reverse the motor direction, which requires a rewire.

[TC3Kamikaze]

I'm happy with mine. It turns over my hyper with ease, course it's no .12TR or mugen MT12.

[boricua racing]

WHAT KIND OF SET UP AND RUBBER TIRES CAN I USE FOR A SMOOTH CONCRETE TRACK.THE FOAM TIRES SET UP WORKS GREAT IN ASPHALT ,BUT JUST DON'T WORK AT ALL IN CONCRETE.


THANKS!!!

[Scott Maxxin]

I ran my NTC3, running an OS cv-x 15 motor, last night for the first time and this thing is very fast!

I am very impressed with the vehicle in every way.

It's unbelievable how it turns so good on or off the throttle and the brakes are like a full scale car, smooth, fully proportional and consistant.

One thing I might want to change though is the ride height, because very small rocks send this thing flying. If I raise the ride height up will it roll over alot?

I was also wondering, what is the lowest gear ratio available and where can I get it?

After running 7 or 8 tanks through it last night I can't imagine very many tracks would require such a high gear ratio?

It seems like this thing is going close to 50 mph? Is that true? How fast should a stock NTC3 with a 15 cv-x motor in it go?

Sorry about the rambling, this on-road stuff is all new to me, I have two t-maxxes one with an OS cv-x 15 and one with an OS 40 fourstroke , an HPI Nitro Rush and an AE rc10t3 and this thing beats all of them in first gear!

Thanx

[us_matrix]

Do they make thicker flywheel? The stock one too thin and cause my starter box's turning wheel eaten up.

[atm92484_3]

Most people just loosen the glowplug to reduce compression. IMO the flywheel is fine if you do this, but a thicker one would be nicer. If you have a few bucks, buy their flywheel for the GT. Its thicker but its overall thickness is a little more than that of the NTC3 so you may need to shim the clutchbell. The pins might also be in different places.

[meldridge]

atm,

So when you loosen the glow plug, do you need to tighten it back down everytime you get the motor started?

[TC3Kamikaze]

Scott: I have mine set at 6 to 8mm ride height. No rollovers yet, I wouldn't go over 10mm. On the gearing...are you looking for lower bottom end or top end? As to the speed I have the same setup as you just a hyper .15 instead. If running max rpm I think it figured to be about 49mph.

Matrix: I don't know of any company that offers a thicker flywheel. I think Kawahara is going have a centax clutch for the NTC3 so maybe it's flywheel will be thicker.