Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v1.0

[speedydave]

melridge, what I do for my FTGT is loosen the glow plug all the way(so it comes out), then screw it back in about 2 turns so it doesnt fall out. Then, without the glow ignitor on, crank the engine over(with fuel in the tank) for about 10 seconds. Tighten the glow plug down, and the engine should start right up(does for me). This also helps to prime the engine, so it starts right up!

[us_matrix]

Hi guys,

I am going to order a few sets of Ellegi foam tires and wheels. What size i should use for front and rear? I saw they have 26 and 30. Are they both fit for TC3?
I am going to run it in Delta rc (Ashpalt track). What size of hardness i should use for front and rear? i see there are a bunch of numbers like 30, 32, 35, 37 etc.

[Zohnmon]

run the 26mm's up front and the 30mm's in the rear

the other numbers are shore hardness numbers

higher number=harder tire

i and most everybody run a harder front than rear, i would try a 30 rear with a 35 front and as the temps rise i would go to 32 rear and 37 front:D

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by meldridge
atm,

So when you loosen the glow plug, do you need to tighten it back down everytime you get the motor started?

Yes that is correct. It is extremely important to do so or else the engine will run lean due to an airleak.

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by Zohnmon
run the 26mm's up front and the 30mm's in the rear

the other numbers are shore hardness numbers

higher number=harder tire

i and most everybody run a harder front than rear, i would try a 30 rear with a 35 front and as the temps rise i would go to 32 rear and 37 front:D

What is 26mm or 30mm's mean? Tire width? That's why i need to put 30mm's in the rear?

Thanks.

[atm92484_3]

Yes the mm refers to the tire width almost all of the time.

[FrankyRizzo]

In Las Vegas we run 45 front 26mm and 40 rear 30mm. We get track temps of 140. Gets a little greasy in the afternoon hours.

[nitrogator]

I just got my NTC3 and getting foam tires for it. This is my first touring car and I am wondering why you wouldn't use the 30mm tires for the front and rear. Is there a ROAR rule that prevents this? Thanks.

[Zohnmon]

theres really not enough room to run 30mm's in front,they will end up rubbing on your steering hubs, i have run 28mm's in front and they barely clear (they do rub a little when railing a corner at 50mph):D

[Zohnmon]

hot track frank

the general rule with foams is hotter track harder tire

where i run(northern illinois) we usually dont go past 40 shore in front.

[tOrcHed Lh]

correct me if i'm wrong.. but skinner tires in front gives better handling.. and wider tires gives better traction.. so wide in back, narrower in front gives best of both worlds.. but no one does that with rubbers.. so i might be mistaken.

[us_matrix]

I was just wondering what kind of air filter you are using for your TC3. I am running MT-12 engine have a standard air filter from the TC3 pic box shown. Do you use AIR FILTER oil for on-road engine?
Anyone tried Motor saver air filter for MT-12? Does it make any difference for the engine life?

[FrankyRizzo]

Use the Associated air foam oil it is nice and sticky

[tOrcHed Lh]

if you use the motor saver's filter, you can use WD-40... i'd get that one cuz it's very popular.

[Scott Maxxin]

I have been running my NTC3 on a parking lot that has some small pebbles at random spots and these little pebbles are getting jammed into my 2 speed gears.

Is there some kind of shield for the bottom of the chassis that somebody makes? or do I just need to run on a clean surface?

[FrankyRizzo]

gears.

Just throw a piece of tape over the opening. If too many pebbles get in there it will chew up your gears and make them louder.

[nitrothugg]

you might have to make the extra effort of sweeping the lot or going somewhere else just to be on the safe side

[FrankyRizzo]

i'd get that one cuz it's very popular.

Get one because it works not because it's popular. The foam ones work great. Go to www.rdlogics.com and they have them in 2 packs. Most companies sell them individualy at that price.

[FrankyRizzo]

This is my first touring car and I am wondering why you wouldn't use the 30mm tires for the front and rear. Is there a ROAR rule that prevents this? Thanks.

The only thing is that the overall width cannot be more than 200mm. They measure to the widest point. If you are using stock wheel nuts for the TC3 you could actually be a tad over. Just if you have a real picky tech judge.

[speedyOB-4]

Not that anyone probably cares, but I replaced the NTC3 tank with an OB-4's tank, and the car runs a lot better than the tank fix. I have a RB 5-port, so all you people out there running high horsepower engines might want to try this. The engine runs awesome, and can idle FOREVER! :D :D :D :D :D :D

[tOrcHed Lh]

does it fit right in?? what mods need to be done?

frankyrizzo...
i guess yo're right.. just because it's popular, might not be the best.. but it must be popular for a reason... it's not really trendy or advertised that much.. so i think it's popular because it works really good.

[speedyOB-4]

The OB-4 tank fits perfectly, all you have to do is drill two holes into the bottom of your chasis and counter sink them.

[tOrcHed Lh]

well that's not what i consider perfect.. i'm waiting for that new GT to come out... we can rip the lid of that tank for our NTC3's.

[Tee]

Associated in spin control
Cliff's Car (http://www.forgas.org:1089/1111/index/19422157289864108/4/P6275611.JPG). Click it, then observe the gas tank...

[TC3Kamikaze]

Now lets see if that tank makes it into production. If it does I'll get a few. Good find on the pic there Tee.

[TUCRACEMAN]

Anyone here useing the dual chambered pipe yet? I'm waiting for mine to arrive in the mail.
~Dave

[FrankyRizzo]

I seem to do pretty well with the stock one. I am anxious to hear if it helps alot.

[syme71]

I'm running with a RB-X12 Rear Exhaust and noticed that my engine runs fine until 1/2 way through the tank then stalls. It then starts to spit out a lot of fuel out of the pipe and is hard to start. If I top off the tank, it runs good again once I clear all the fuel that accumulated in the pipe.

I read the posts on this forum and ran it by the TC3 expert at my LHS and was advised not to move the pressure hose to the top of the tank because it could cause leaning of the engine when low on fuel. I was told that the tank was designed to provide consistent pressure regardless of fuel level and moving the pressure input to the top of the tank would diminish this pressure.

I was then advised that I should just handle the car carefully using only the handle. Buy using the handle when moving the car, it keeps it at the recommended angle and prevents fuel from backing into the pipe.

What do you think, go with the mod or listen to my LHS?

How long of a line should I run between the pipe and the tank?

I'm leaning towards doing the tank mod.

[FrankyRizzo]

Try the mod. The worst that could happen is you would need to buy a new tank.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by syme71
I'm running with a RB-X12 Rear Exhaust and noticed that my engine runs fine until 1/2 way through the tank then stalls. It then starts to spit out a lot of fuel out of the pipe and is hard to start. If I top off the tank, it runs good again once I clear all the fuel that accumulated in the pipe.

I read the posts on this forum and ran it by the TC3 expert at my LHS and was advised not to move the pressure hose to the top of the tank because it could cause leaning of the engine when low on fuel. I was told that the tank was designed to provide consistent pressure regardless of fuel level and moving the pressure input to the top of the tank would diminish this pressure.

I was then advised that I should just handle the car carefully using only the handle. Buy using the handle when moving the car, it keeps it at the recommended angle and prevents fuel from backing into the pipe.

What do you think, go with the mod or listen to my LHS?

How long of a line should I run between the pipe and the tank?

I'm leaning towards doing the tank mod.


Syme,did I meet you at Cruisin?..........

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by syme71
I'm running with a RB-X12 Rear Exhaust and noticed that my engine runs fine until 1/2 way through the tank then stalls. It then starts to spit out a lot of fuel out of the pipe and is hard to start. If I top off the tank, it runs good again once I clear all the fuel that accumulated in the pipe.

I read the posts on this forum and ran it by the TC3 expert at my LHS and was advised not to move the pressure hose to the top of the tank because it could cause leaning of the engine when low on fuel. I was told that the tank was designed to provide consistent pressure regardless of fuel level and moving the pressure input to the top of the tank would diminish this pressure.

I was then advised that I should just handle the car carefully using only the handle. Buy using the handle when moving the car, it keeps it at the recommended angle and prevents fuel from backing into the pipe.

What do you think, go with the mod or listen to my LHS?

How long of a line should I run between the pipe and the tank?

I'm leaning towards doing the tank mod.


make sure you carry it on a pillow too so you dont scuff the tires. do the mod. i was skeptical at first too but after i did it i seen the difference. it almost completely cures the leaking pipe because no matter which way i held mine when it was at the stock position it dripped.

[Zohnmon]

i been running the dual chamber rear ex pipe for a month now,its a little quiter,lot more top end, and a little better with fuel economy,
its also hard anodized so it doesnt ding real ez like the stock pipe,its also a bit heavier than the stock pipe.all in all i am veryy happy with mine:)

[Bloodember]

Hi, I have a TC3 and I can't see to get it to shift into second gear. I have it turned out right now about 2 3/4. Not sure what I am doing wrong. Help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

--bloodember--

[us_matrix]

Hi,

On page 8 Racer's tip, it said remove 2 speed housing and clecan any oil or residue for inside the housing and outside the shoe to ensure consistent shifting. Did you guys do it? Is this necessary to do it? (Very much oil inside?) It looks like i need to remove a lot of parts in order to clean the 2 speed housing.
I have already ran through 4 tanks of fuel so far.

[syme71]

Is it true that .12 RB engines are much more finicky than OS engines? I have an RB X12 that is giving me hell. I'm hoping that the fuel tank mod will fix the issues.

I was wondering what most of you NTC3 owners run?

I'm thinking about swapping out to an OS .12TR Turbo. Should I consider any other engine.

To me reliability/easy tunability is much more important that speed. What fun is it if you ain't running?

[syme71]

Aside from wasting a $6.00 bottle of Nitro wash after every outing, does anyone have a more cost-effective technique to get all the grime off the car?

[syme71]

Originally posted by Zohnmon
i been running the dual chamber rear ex pipe for a month now,its a little quiter,lot more top end, and a little better with fuel economy,
its also hard anodized so it doesnt ding real ez like the stock pipe,its also a bit heavier than the stock pipe.all in all i am veryy happy with mine:)

Where did you get this pipe? How much?

[syme71]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
Try the mod. The worst that could happen is you would need to buy a new tank.

That's what I'm thinking. I'm definitely going to do it. Although my LHS guys says I'll damage the engine from running too lean. The ole' RB was giving me hell anyways.

Thanks!

[FrankyRizzo]

does anyone have a more cost-effective technique to get all the grime off the car?

Go buy a gallon of denatured alcohol at Home Depot for 8 bucks a gallon. Get a spray bottle from wal-mart and you are set.

[FrankyRizzo]

I was wondering what most of you NTC3 owners run?

I am running a JP mod MT-12 Novarossi. Always have been fond of the Nova family. Collari is supposed to be really nice also.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by syme71


That's what I'm thinking. I'm definitely going to do it. Although my LHS guys says I'll damage the engine from running too lean. The ole' RB was giving me hell anyways.

Thanks!


we have 7 tc3's,all with RB 3 ports and 5 ports,all W/O gas tank mods,all running fine.....RB's are a little finiky.........but heras 2 things......make sure you're gas line's are routed exactlt like Associated says....thru the head to the carb,and laying flat,tightly coiled,10 inches of line to the pipe.......trust me,alot of it is in the tuning.ESP with RB's................Syme,where do you live?........

[Bloodember]

Hey guys,
Still having problems with shifting into 2nd. It's 2 3/4 turns out. What do I have to do to get it to shift? Thanks.

--bloodember--

[tOrcHed Lh]

clean out the 2 speed 1 way housing or wateva. the oil from the bearings leak out a little and makes the clutch shoes slip.

[Bloodember]

thanks, I'll try that.

--bloodember--

[syme71]

Originally posted by fastharry



we have 7 tc3's,all with RB 3 ports and 5 ports,all W/O gas tank mods,all running fine.....RB's are a little finiky.........but heras 2 things......make sure you're gas line's are routed exactlt like Associated says....thru the head to the carb,and laying flat,tightly coiled,10 inches of line to the pipe.......trust me,alot of it is in the tuning.ESP with RB's................Syme,where do you live?........

I'm in Wayne, NJ. Where and when do you guys meet?

I hear differing opinions on how long a car should be able to idle. With a properly broken-in and tuned RB engine, should I be able to idle through a whole tank of gas or expect the car to idle for not more then 30 seconds then quit?

[syme71]

Posting for a pal that owns a Yokomo GT4 w/foam tires...

What causes traction roll and what do I need to change to prevent it?

[meldridge]

Anyone out there having issues witht eh Yoke Front one-way diff stripping gears?

See pic...

[FrankyRizzo]

What causes traction roll and what do I need to change to prevent it?

Variety of things.
First of all it takes a high traction situation for this to happen.
Tire diameter to tall
ride level to high
suspension too soft.

In my experiences I have not had any traction roll on my TC3. My Mugen had it all the time even running 55mm diameter tires. I have been able to run new foams and stay at the 5.5 mm ride heigth and not have a problem.

Is the traction roll consistent or is at a certain turn?

[syme71]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo



Is the traction roll consistent or is at a certain turn?

At high speed, consistently.

[Bloodember]

Hey guys,
Me again, I took the tranny apart and cleaned it, reset the adjustment screws to 3 1/2 turns out. Still didn't shift, so turned it out a couple of times still no shift. I have it out about 4 turns and it still won't shift. Now I'm stumped, the manual says 3 1/2 but mine won't shift and that, what am I doing wrong. Help please!

--bloodember--

[fastharry]

Originally posted by syme71


I'm in Wayne, NJ. Where and when do you guys meet?

I hear differing opinions on how long a car should be able to idle. With a properly broken-in and tuned RB engine, should I be able to idle through a whole tank of gas or expect the car to idle for not more then 30 seconds then quit?


Syme,we race in Nanuet NY on Tues nite's............have you ever been to Cruisin RC's in Ramsey NJ?...the reason I ask is that there was someone in the shop the other day with the same problems as yours(gas tank)...Just wanted to see if that was you.........

[syme71]

Originally posted by fastharry



Syme,we race in Nanuet NY on Tues nite's............have you ever been to Cruisin RC's in Ramsey NJ?...the reason I ask is that there was someone in the shop the other day with the same problems as yours(gas tank)...Just wanted to see if that was you.........

That was I. Larry from that shop is a good guy. I wish the Cruisin was a little bigger. That store gets packed. Good stock of NTC3 parts though. Where exactly in Nanuet? And what time? Maybe I'll make it tomorrow if you guys are on.

[ME-student]

meldridge: put one more shim in the front input shaft behind the bevel gear. you have 2 shims in it right now, so make it 3 total. hope this help.:)

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by Bloodember
Hey guys,
Me again, I took the tranny apart and cleaned it, reset the adjustment screws to 3 1/2 turns out. Still didn't shift, so turned it out a couple of times still no shift. I have it out about 4 turns and it still won't shift. Now I'm stumped, the manual says 3 1/2 but mine won't shift and that, what am I doing wrong. Help please!

--bloodember--


only thing i can think of is to maybe turn it all the way down to maybe 1 1/2 to 2 turns out, then pick it up off the ground and slowly give it throttle. the reason why i say screw it down so low is because it will (in your case should ) shift a lot later to compensate for not having a load on the engine. you should hear it click , it will be really distinct. this should give you some starting point. i hope you get what i'm saying, maybe someone else can help me explain what i'm trying to say or improvise it or the method to make it easier.

mine didnt start shifting until maybe 4 or 5 tanks and it caught me off guard cause i wasn't even testing for it.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by syme71


That was I. Larry from that shop is a good guy. I wish the Cruisin was a little bigger. That store gets packed. Good stock of NTC3 parts though. Where exactly in Nanuet? And what time? Maybe I'll make it tomorrow if you guys are on.

did you buy your car there?or any other parts?(engine?)

[syme71]

Originally posted by fastharry


did you buy your car there?or any other parts?(engine?)

I didn't buy the car there but everything else - engine, accessories, etc. I didn;t realize how this expensive thi shobby would be. The car kit retails for $270 and I've spent almost $2K to get all the accessories I need.

I'm contemplating on getting a second vehicle. Either another NTC3 or a Kyosho Inferno MP-7.5 Kanai. What do you think?

[FrankyRizzo]

At high speed, consistently.

Try slowing down. Just kidding.
Try lowering your ride height and stiffer springs.

Do you have any marks on your chassis at the front of the front wheels? IE so much chassis roll it is bottoming out.

What camber are you running?

[syme71]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo


Try slowing down. Just kidding.
Try lowering your ride height and stiffer springs.

Do you have any marks on your chassis at the front of the front wheels? IE so much chassis roll it is bottoming out.

What camber are you running?

Thanks Mr. Rizzo. I will pass the suggestion along to my pal. I keep reminding him to dump his Junkomo and get a NTC3. I don't know about the camber but I'm sure it's misaligned as well.

[FrankyRizzo]

So it's the yokomo rolling?

not the TC3. I personally heve not seen a TC3 traction roll.

[FrankyRizzo]

Brokomo and Slokomo work as well

[syme71]

Wanted to poll you NTC3 owners to see what type of throttle/steering servos you run. I'm about to embark on building another NTC3 and only want the best.

Currently I have Futaba S9101 for throttle/S9402 for steering. Was considering going with S9450 digital servos for both on next car. Any opinions?

[TUCRACEMAN]

Originally posted by Bloodember
Hi, I have a TC3 and I can't see to get it to shift into second gear. I have it turned out right now about 2 3/4. Not sure what I am doing wrong. Help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

--bloodember--


Make sure that you're turning the correct screw. remember, it's not the big silver screws that holds in the balls, it's those two screws in the sides of the clutch. That is why mine woulden't shift when I first got it.

[Bloodember]

Thanks, but I already knew it was the black screws. Thankyou all who have gave me some suggestions, I will try them all out on Wensday evening, and post back it I get it too shift.

--bloodember--

[tallyrc]

BLOODEMBER

it is probably the silver screws that is giving you the problems. they need to be tightened down to the shaft just tight enough to touch the shaft without spreading the shoes apart. you need to do them eavenly! tighten one little, than the other, till you see the shoes start to part. restet your black screws to 2-1/2 turns.

[gotspeed_2000]

Has anyone tried to upgrade the standard clutch with the MIP Upgrade clutch for the RC10GT? I was wondering if it worked, or if anyone has adopted a MIP clutch, which clutch kit did you use and what if any modifications were required? Thanks.

[ME-student]

gotspeed_2000: wait for the Kawahara centax clutch.. should be out soon...

:D

[gotspeed_2000]

If I was to actually get serious about racing again, then I would want the centax. But since this is my "play" car, then all I want is a reliable clutch system like the MIP set up. It would only cost around $15 compared to a centax setup that would run around a $100. I used to race seriously, and have had RC10GT, RC10T, RC10T2, RC10T3, RC10B2, RC10B3, RC10 Worlds Car, 1/8th scale mirage pro, HPI RS4, HPI Mini Pro, HPI Pro 2, HPI RS4 Nitro, HPI Micro, and now the NTC3. I've had my experiences with Associated clutches on my GT and I would want something like the MIP cause it's almost failproof and very reliable. I don't want to spend another 2 g's on a car again like I did with my RS4 nitro. This car will satisfy my need for speed on occassion. Thanks though for the heads up on the centax, but it's just not for me at this time. Anyone else try this mod yet? Please post back. Thanks

[Mojo]

Well I just finished building my first RC car and it was a great experience. The TC3 kit is a real joy.

But I do have one little problem. When I tighten the 4 chassis screws into the motor mounts they never get tight and now they are all stripped. It's not like I overtightened them, I never even felt resistance as they reached the end of the threads. The heads are fine and I was using a good Hudy 5/64 hex wrench.

Has this happened to anyone else? Do you think that I have defective motor mounts?

Also, does anyone know a way to get them out without using a Dremel. Junior needs a new pair of shoes and I really don't want to spend more bucks on a Dremel.

Thanks!

[FrankyRizzo]

That pot metal is soft. With a good set of tools you can spin them in place. The blue finned ones are nicer anyways.

[Mojo]

FrankyRizzo, Thanks for your reply. Who makes the "blue finned ones" and where can I get'em?

Thanks!

[FrankyRizzo]

Associated has them.
goto www.rcboyz.com

They have the best prices on all AE stuff.

[Mojo]

Ok, I have to 'fess-up here. Silly me!

Yesterday, I finally got a 5/64 Hudy hex wrench via the Internet. All the 5/64 screws were driving me nuts using an Allen key and I couldn't find the wrench at any LHS, so I continued building the kit with the lousy Allen-key that I had.

The dang Hudy hex-wrench I got has a replaceable shaft and guess what the lock nut is? Yep, 5/64! So, you need a 5/64 wrench in order to tighten the shaft on a 5/64 wrench! Well I thought I had it tight using the stripped Allen key that I had, but in fact I didn't and it was the wrench shaft that was spinning and not the engine mounts/screws.

Duh!!!

My apologies to Don at Associated Tech support who rushed to send out a new set of engine mounts and screws. I guess I'll have to send'em back. ;)

Mojo

[Bloodember]

Hi everyone,
I want to thank everyone who helped me a couple of days ago with the tranny. In fact it was a weak spring, just tighened up the one screw a 1 1/2 turns more than the other and it fixed the problem with my tranny, the shoes are evenly spaced now on the shaft. I took it out and ran it today and it was awesome. It shifted perfectly. I aslo picked up a MIP Temp Gauge 2 to keep track of the Engine temp. I adjusted the engine more and now it runs awesome, I do need to ajust the low end so it will stay running when idle after the car has been running awhile. But other than that it runs smoothly. I also would like to know what the temp should be on a Megatech M-16, the temp on it right now is hovering around 227F, is that about right? This is just the engine I'm using to get use to the car, and learn to drive it better. I plan on getting a Sirio .12, the Roar legal one of course, for racing. This car is awesome though, and thanks for the help everyone.

--bloodember--

[tOrcHed Lh]

Originally posted by Mojo
Ok, I have to 'fess-up here. Silly me!

Yesterday, I finally got a 5/64 Hudy hex wrench via the Internet. All the 5/64 screws were driving me nuts using an Allen key and I couldn't find the wrench at any LHS, so I continued building the kit with the lousy Allen-key that I had.

The dang Hudy hex-wrench I got has a replaceable shaft and guess what the lock nut is? Yep, 5/64! So, you need a 5/64 wrench in order to tighten the shaft on a 5/64 wrench! Well I thought I had it tight using the stripped Allen key that I had, but in fact I didn't and it was the wrench shaft that was spinning and not the engine mounts/screws.

Duh!!!

My apologies to Don at Associated Tech support who rushed to send out a new set of engine mounts and screws. I guess I'll have to send'em back. ;)

Mojo

haha that's some funny stuff... my integy drivers are like that too... you need 3/32 wrench to tighten the set screw on the 3/32 driver.. ahha

[StevePond]

A quick tip for situations like this - cut the stripped portion from the Allen wrench with a Dremel cut-off wheel. That will give you a "fresh" tip to use when you need to tighten the tip of the Hudy wrench. ;)

Also, 2mm and 5/64 are virtually identical - you can use one to tighten the other. :D

[HP7]

Thanks SteveP, I needed that info too.

[ponky_wonky]

i was wondering what engine is better for the ntc3 i shall be purchasing in the near future, an o.s. 15 cvr-x an o.s. 12cvr-x or an o.s. 12 tr

price, performance and crazy top speeds are my main concerns
but i can alwasy sacrifice money for more fun
thnx

[T9D]

I'm attempting to get a project off the ground, and I need some measurements and info to see if the NTC3 is the car to use. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I need to know:

Does the upper deck on the right side support anything, or is it just for protection/rigidity?

Distance from front of rear wheels to rear of front wheels

Distance from back of steering servo to front of rear wheels

Distance from drive shaft to outside of the chassis

Distance from drive shaft to the outside edge of the wheels (like if you put a piece of cardboard flat on the outside of the wheels, and measured to that)

Distance from outside of throttle servo to outside of chassis

Distance from outside of throttle servo to edge of wheels



Again, thanks to anyone who helps out, and while the project is necessarily secret right now, I assure you it'll be interesting if it gets off the ground, so please spare a couple of minutes to help out.

[nitrothugg]

you got to let us know if you want those in inches or metric .

[T9D]

Inches would be great, but I'm sure I could survive if it was metric... beggars can't be choosers, ya know?

[nitrogator]

I have a O.S. TR in my NTC3, but need another engine just for parking lot racing that develops maximum horsepower. I'm looking for something under $200 in .12 or .15. Has anyone ran the Novarossi .15? Any comments on the "outlaw .12's" from Picco or the O.S TR outlaw? What about the WASP .18? Thanks.

[meldridge]

Get a Collari .12 Some of the guys have them here in their 1/10th touring cars and keep up with and even beat the .15 open classes...

[syme71]

Originally posted by ponky_wonky
i was wondering what engine is better for the ntc3 i shall be purchasing in the near future, an o.s. 15 cvr-x an o.s. 12cvr-x or an o.s. 12 tr

price, performance and crazy top speeds are my main concerns
but i can alwasy sacrifice money for more fun
thnx

I've narrowed down my search to RB-X12 Turbo 5 Port or a JP RS-T12. The JP is $44 more so I'm leaning towards the RB. From the number of people I've been speaking to, it is the .12 engine to beat. The RB is $215 by the way.

[coastal-tony]

Any one have set-up tips using foam tires?
The set-up sheet that came with the car is quite clear, just asking. I installed a Collari, will break it in tonight. While I'm asking, anyone have any hop-up suggestions?

[Bloodember]

when you break the bumper, which you will, get the rpm bumper for it instead, its alot stronger and its not as wide. Also upgrade the few bushings to bearings. That's about all that really needs to be upgraded in my opinion.

--bloodember--

[TC3Kamikaze]

Yeah the RPM or even the trinity bumper would be a good upgrade. Replace the steering rack bearings. It'll take out some of the slop. I replaced mine and replaced the ball cups with RPM ones.

[FEARLESS INC]

Just bought mine off ebay... WoooHooooo

[Mojo]

I have about 1 degree of toe in/out slop in my front linkage. Does anybody have any suggestions for a fix? I saw a post earlier on this board about replacing the swing rack bushings with bearings, is that the culprit? if so, what bearings should I order?

Also, one last question; Is it possible to lift out the entire front suspension as one assembly by disconnecting the steering linkage and chassis braces in order to facilitate easy access to the swing rack?

Thanks!
Mojo:confused:

[coastal-tony]

Mojo
I just got 2 of them this weekend, and that
little bit of slop is probably from the bushings. I am getting ready to pop off the front end.
I will let you know what I find.

[FrankyRizzo]

The bearings did make a difference.

If you remove the radio tray, all the screws on the bottom front including the ones that kick back for the tray brace. Remove the ball cups on the rack. The whole front end should come off in one piece. Keep the lower pin keepers in place or you will have a bit of a mess.

I replaced the ball cups with RPM's and have had no problems. The new swing rack kit comes with a black stronger spring for the "servo saver" in the middle. Do not overtighten the screw, it rubs on the input shaft real bad. I would recommend this only if you have a strong metal gear servo. That took all the play out of my steering.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Part number for the swing rack is 1714.

[coastal-tony]

Has anyone installed RPM HB ball-cups on the
steering turnbuckles.
I just did, and I had to use a Dremmel and
file a little off each ball-cup.
Anyone know if this RPM thing is good or
bad?:confused:

[FrankyRizzo]

I had to do minor shaving on the turnbuckle that goes from the rack to the servo. It doesn't affect performance at all. Or you can shave a tad on the top of the servo housing to make it clear.

[coastal-tony]

Franky
Are you talking about grinding the ball-cup to clear the servo?

[FrankyRizzo]

If you mean the part that meets the turnbuckle itself. then yes.

[coastal-tony]

I just mounted my Collari XS pull-start .12.
It is either run the fuel tubing around the outside,(and rest on the header), or go around the inside (and rest against the case)
Any tips?

[phdeez]

sorry.... see below

[phdeez]

Originally posted by coastal-tony
I just mounted my Collari XS pull-start .12.
It is either run the fuel tubing around the outside,(and rest on the header), or go around the inside (and rest against the case)
Any tips?

coastal-tony, I initially ran my fuel tubing the opposite way the manual suggests [over the header] and I had some tuning problems, but then I re-routed the fuel line and seemed to be a little more stable.

[coastal-tony]

Thats what I thought, thanks

[FrankyRizzo]

For some reason when you route it over and around the header it tends to loose it's prime and cut out a tad. Running it so it hugs the case and around to the carb seems to make it run smoother.

One of those TC3 enigmas..

[coastal-tony]

go figure

[atm92484_3]

Franky, where did you grind the turnbuckle? That isn't (atleast shouldn't be) necessary to assemble the kit according to the manual.

[coastal-tony]

springs
Help!
I am planning running with TRC foams this weekend, but, I only have the stock copper & gold AE springs.
I have some old Losi springs from a Street Weapon in yellow, purple & black.
Anyone know if these will be better than the stockers?

[FrankyRizzo]

ATM-
not with the stock ball cups. It was only for the RPM ones.
Notice in the pic how I just shaved it down a bit to clear the servo.

Costal-
Try the stiffest ones in front and the coppers in the rear. Just an idea.

[fastharry]

i used to run my fuel tubing around the carb,and then foward to the carb...I also had a habit of picking the car buy the rear bumper.....one day noticed that I had bubbles in the line(at the same time as the car was hard to start and gas was puoring out the pipe......I figured out the the tank must be losing prime..I routed the line like associated says,and now carry it by the handle......now it (the car) sits back,gas never leaves the carb..it stays primed...and NO problems....I guess Associateds smarter tha all us "Genius's...........

[speedydave]

Ahh! Every time I read about, or am reminded of a car I used to want and thought I stopped wanting, I want it again! I just went through all the pages of this thread and looked at all of the pics of the car. I thought I didn't even like onroad much, but I think the NTC3's cool factor has bitten me like a mosquito! And the worst part is, I'm getting a Mugen XR, so I can't afford anything for a long time! :(

[FrankyRizzo]

Sorry to hear that Speedy.

[speedydave]

Do I detect a hint of sarcasm? :D

[speedydave]

EDIT: Oops..Well now that I messed this up, I might as well say something. It's just that, I wanted a nitro TC3 before, but decided onroad would be too much of a hassle to run along with offroad, so I ditched the NTC3 plan. Now, I'm getting a Mugen XR, and I go check out what's happening in the NTC3 thread, and BOOM!, I want the car again! I wish I could be a little more patient...lol

[TUCRACEMAN]

Dave, just return the Mugen. Geeze, were you Walnut Creek people born without brains? :D
~Dave

[EngenZerO]

check out the new tank on the RTR ver of the NTC3...wonder if thats going to be that tank they also release to the public different from the ones that they ran at the nationals...also ae now seems to have a new bumper design in the new manual...AE2223 wonder how that compares to the RPM one? either way I just picked up some gs racing presure fittings just incase and a new RPM bumper for my ride

http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_ntc3/2040_topchas.jpg


engen

[speedydave]

Originally posted by TUCRACEMAN
Dave, just return the Mugen. Geeze, were you Walnut Creek people born without brains? :D
~Dave

Apparently...I just drove the same MP7.5 I had driven earlier this month(well, late last month), and I definitely want my Mugen. However...I may sell a few other cars, so later this year or earlier next year(especially if I get a regular job), I may pick an NTC3 up...the main reason I race offroad more is for two reasons...one is that offroad turnout is usually better, and also that it's easier for me to get out there for offroad races(offroad races start at 10:00 AM, where onroad races start, or used to start, at 5:00 PM, so I'd be out of there too late.).

Oh yeah...I doubt AE will replace the tank(or cap) in the kit with the tank(or cap) from the RTR NTC3. The RTR GT had that same tank, only flipped around, and AE still includes the other tank with the GT kits, so I doubt they will do anything different for the NTC3.

[atm92484_3]

That tank is actually a TTR piece but AE uses it on their RTR cars (cheaper than the AE tank maybe?).

[FrankyRizzo]

I heard at the Nationals that some of the TC3 drivers are retro fitting to the Mugen tank. Something about the pick up not low enough and leaning out at low levels.

I will get the rest of the scoop on sunday from my source.

[nIkKo]

Does anyone know when the tc3 rtr is suppose to come out and how much it will be. I might actually consider it and then put a two speed in there. I hope it flies.

[nIkKo]

Do hpi 200mm bodies fit on this?

[ponky_wonky]

how fast will a stock ntc3 go with a 15cvr-x?

[FrankyRizzo]

Do hpi 200mm bodies fit on this?

All 200mm bodies will work. Just have to drill the holes for it.

[coastal-tony]

Franky
I am ordering a bunch of spare parts for the NTC3 tomorrow
Other than the spring kit, and RPM bumper ( number please?), anything you think I should get now?

[FrankyRizzo]

diff cases,shock tower just in case, arms, pillow balls,and RPM ball ends. That should get you started.

[coastal-tony]

Thanks Frank
I always have a spare chassis, just in case
I have older TC3 springs, I see they added the stiff yellow.

[ponky_wonky]

dont you freakin hate all those losers who think the hpi rs4 3 type ss is "faster and has better handling" than the ntc3, i mean come on, if you look at the rs4 3 ss the chassis is only like 100 dollars canadian if you subtract the engine and the 2peed?
the ntc3 is a pro car and the ss is just a parking lot basher
jeese!!!!!!!
if you have an opinion on my say please post your thoughts on this thread
:(

[coastal-tony]

There was a new guy at the track with a RTR3
He almost beat our club champ.
Champ has been racing 9 years with nitro
They had a full field of 10, and the new guy
just kept his cool, hoping for a slip up, not
to happen today. Old RS4 wins:cool:

[atm92484_3]

Thats what I'd call luck....or maybe the extremely rare event where the RTR 3 was a better suited car for the track. :confused:

[coastal-tony]

ATM
Yeah, but, I saw it.
The champ installed a new Ofna pipe & header last week, and he did not have much time to modify the pipe/header combo, or properly retune his NovaRossi, for the pipe. He was not having a good time. In the qualifier, he blew another gasket, plus his HPI tranny was stuck in 1st. (He blew 2 gaskets with that new Ofna pipe/header yesterday)
btw, he is quite the motorhead, and his C12 is very strong (modified)
We race on a parking lot track and Dave Vera had a VERY strong showing, as he prepares to head to the nats. He was VERY quick, running 14 second laps all day long, with his Schumacher Mission.

[RcLaB1]

i'm planning on getting a NTC3,,,,,
with the Highest gear ration 2 speed possible
that Associated sells,

how fast is the car (avg.) with a Mugen MT (non turbo) motor.


will a .15 NovaMega bigBlock fit into the NTC3
without any fitting modifications to the motor mounts.
Or is the bigBlock too big?

if it does fit, how fast do you think it will go, with
the highest possible 2 speed tranny ratio?


I'm planning on using it on a clean huge parking lot
for drag races.......

thanks

[TC3Kamikaze]

It's hard to make a real judgement on the speed since there is so many things to consider. Here's a link that will give you a rough figure. RC tech gear ratio (http://www.rcracing.com/Page.cfm?InfoID=1100) Just enter the TC3 then all the info needed.

[atm92484_3]

Rclab, with the fastest gearing and the Mugen, you can probably expect something in the range of 58-61mph as a top speed. However, unless you just zoom up and down a parking, that high of a top speed will not matter (but since you are, it'll be fine). You will also need to be able to tune the engine though since a poorly tuned engine will not get you near your goal when it comes to speed.

As for the big block, they are generally meant for 1/8 scale cars and 1/10 onroads (not to be confused with 1/10 touring cars). It will not fit the NTC3 and there is no good way to. Someone put a .21 in their NTC3 but IMO it was kind of shaudy since he could only used 2 screws to hold the engine to the mounts.

Good luck

[HauntedMyst]

I know this has been posted, but I don't have time to go through 37 pages. I need a good parking lot set up for my NTC3 with moderate traction since mine is hooking like crazy. I have almost all the TC3 springs, so if those are needed, please post them. Thanks in advance!

[coastal-tony]

HM
With the stock setup for foams you are
hooking? Mine tracks like an arrow.

[blimey]

HM...Well here is mine.We race in a parking lot series.
Camber front and rear 2 degrees
Castor 9 degrees
Front toe 0 degrees
rear toe 2 degrees
front shock 60 wt
rear shock 40 wt
front spring yellow
rear spring copper
no sway bars
stratus body(proline)
TRC dbl purple front,purple rear
ride height 5 to 5.5 mm
We run on a semi rough surface(track isn't bumpy the asphalt is unsealed) with no traction compound
My son and I have been finishing mid pack in the A with this set up....against some very good drivers.

[Race4ever]

blimey, where do you race? Is it in Columbus?

[blimey]

Originally posted by Race4ever
blimey, where do you race? Is it in Columbus?

Yep..I race with CORCAR in Grove City. www.corcar.com

[nIkKo]

Originally posted by ponky_wonky
dont you freakin hate all those losers who think the hpi rs4 3 type ss is "faster and has better handling" than the ntc3, i mean come on, if you look at the rs4 3 ss the chassis is only like 100 dollars canadian if you subtract the engine and the 2peed?
the ntc3 is a pro car and the ss is just a parking lot basher
jeese!!!!!!!
if you have an opinion on my say please post your thoughts on this thread
:(

How u actually driven both cars? I bet you havent and you just think that the tc3 will always be better beciase it costs more. It is driver's skill and how they know how to drvie their car. Why dont you get your foot out of your *** and stop bashing on cars you havent even drove.

[ponky_wonky]

listen, i agree that driver skill plays a massive role in the performance of a car but i was talking about the quality of the nitro car in general, not how well a certain person is at driving it!
plus, my 2 friends both have rs4 3 type ss', i beat them on straits all the time
i have an rb concept x12 5 port engine and everything else except for my cvec pipe is stock
their cars have modified gearing, foam tires and a whole $hitload of other hop up options
so calm down and take a "chill pill"
peace out:cool:

[nIkKo]

Well pf course you are going to beat them on straitrs when you have a 5 port engine, that has nothing to do with the qulaity of the car.

[ponky_wonky]

This was quite the colorful post, lets watch it next time...

[ponky_wonky]

hey guys, i was wondering if teflon sealed bearings would make a major difference in the speed of my NTC3
i read on the voner thread that teflon bearing made a difference in his voner and he said it rolled smoother like a NTC3
any info woul be helpful
thxs

[atm92484_3]

I seriously doubt it; the NTC3 comes with a pretty good set of bearings.

[nitrogator]

I am looking for a good set of dense foam rubber tires for parking lot racing. I'm looking for a tire that has good wear rate and that doesn't chunk easily. Would like to keep the 2 sets of tires in the $35 range. Prefer 30mm rear and 26 front. Thanks.

[FrankyRizzo]

I am looking for a good set of dense foam rubber tires for parking lot racing. I'm looking for a tire that has good wear rate and that doesn't chunk easily. Would like to keep the 2 sets of tires in the $35 range. Prefer 30mm rear and 26 front. Thanks

You can help with the chunking by coating the sidewalls with CA glue. Do about 3 coats and it will not only prevent chunking but will give you a stronger sidewall for cornering.

www.nitrohouse.com has Fast Tires ( the mugen brand name) for $13 for front and $14 for the 30mm rears. So for about $30 shipped you will have awesome tires. This is the best deal I have found on great tires.

[ponky_wonky]

i apoligize for the use of vulgar language in my reply
sincerely, Terry:rolleyes:

[gotspeed_2000]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
I heard at the Nationals that some of the TC3 drivers are retro fitting to the Mugen tank. Something about the pick up not low enough and leaning out at low levels.

I will get the rest of the scoop on sunday from my source.



Can you tell us how they modified the mugen tank to fit. I'm thinking about trying to fit the older HPI tank into my car. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

[FrankyRizzo]

It looks to me like you would have to mark off 2 holes, drill and countersink them on the bottom of the chassis. You can go to an electronics supply house and find aluminum standoffs. Mount the tank to the standoffs. I am going to look into this ASAP. I will post pics and such.

[ME-student]

here is mine with VoneR tank:) http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/attachment.php?postid=400006

[ME-student]

more...http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/attachment.php?postid=400012

[ME-student]

more....http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/attachment.php?postid=400021

[ME-student]

last one...http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/attachment.php?postid=400027

[FrankyRizzo]

That is exactly what I was talking about. Thanks for the pics ME.

[coastal-tony]

Franky
If I can get a Mugen part number I will get 5 or 6 fuel tanks.

[coastal-tony]

Where do you mount the transponder?

[FrankyRizzo]

Personal or club given?
Personal: wherever you want.
Club given: usually a hole in the windshield will do

[HP7]

Hi everone,

I just got done braking my engine in and I was wondering why my steering was making really wide turns? I'm using the rubber setup as stated in the ae manual. diffs 1/4 front, 1/2 rear. I'm warried about this because the parking lot track setup is really tight and I know I won't be able to make the corners. Any help is greatly appreciated:confused:

[atm92484_3]

Chances are there is enough traction to over-ride the built in servo saver on the car. Pretty much every NTC3 driver has experienced this. The fix: replace the stock NTC3 servo saver spring with the much stiffer 6587 spring for the GT and Nitro DS tranny.

good luck

[HP7]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Chances are there is enough traction to over-ride the built in servo saver on the car. Pretty much every NTC3 driver has experienced this. The fix: replace the stock NTC3 servo saver spring with the much stiffer 6587 spring for the GT and Nitro DS tranny.

good luck

Thanks for the reply. I have already change to 6587 spring when I put the car together. Could you please tell me what the Nitro DS tranny is? And, maybe another fixes you might have on this steering problem. Again thanks

[FrankyRizzo]

Are you using a sway bar in the front?

Try a little bit of toe out to make your seering more aggressive. Just a degree or so.

[HP7]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
Are you using a sway bar in the front?

Try a little bit of toe out to make your seering more aggressive. Just a degree or so.

I am using the blade in the front and will try the toe out and see what happens. thanks Franky.

[phdeez]

Originally posted by HP7


Thanks for the reply. I have already change to 6587 spring when I put the car together. Could you please tell me what the Nitro DS tranny is? And, maybe another fixes you might have on this steering problem. Again thanks

The Nitro DS Tranny is a stealth tranny that has the same (?) gear reduction as the GT. Basically the Nitro Dual-Sport is a dropped GT with a shortened chassis. Pre-NTC3, it was a 2WD onroad!

[HP7]

Thanks phdeez, a little education doesn't hurt anyone. Thanks

[Insane Rival]

hello, im new here, and im getting my ntc3 in 2 weeks! w00t! anyways, here are some questions i have...

#1. What size hex drivers do I need?

#2. How will the OS CV-X work in the car? What will be a rough estimate of the top speed with the GT pipe?

#3. How hard will it be to drop my engine in and put the 2 speed and stuff on? I am buying it used but its like new, just broke in an engine, im not getting the engine tho, the CV-X is from another deal, back to the topic, heh, it is already built, so, how will will it be to install the engine and everything?

#4. Is this a good car for a beginner?

well if anyone would be kind enough to help me out id GREATLY appriciate it! TIA

[PremierRC]

Does anyone know where to get the Jaco Nitro shoes online? Any opinions on good foams and where to get them?

Premerrc

[TC3Kamikaze]

Originally posted by Insane Rival
hello, im new here, and im getting my ntc3 in 2 weeks! w00t! anyways, here are some questions i have...

#1. What size hex drivers do I need?

#2. How will the OS CV-X work in the car? What will be a rough estimate of the top speed with the GT pipe?

#3. How hard will it be to drop my engine in and put the 2 speed and stuff on? I am buying it used but its like new, just broke in an engine, im not getting the engine tho, the CV-X is from another deal, back to the topic, heh, it is already built, so, how will will it be to install the engine and everything?

#4. Is this a good car for a beginner?

well if anyone would be kind enough to help me out id GREATLY appriciate it! TIA

1. .050,1/16,3/32,5/64
2. Good (note if it's a standard crank it will need to be cut) rough guess 40 to 50 depending on gearing and rpm.
3. It's not to hard the instructions are clear and simple.
4. I think it is.

I don't think the nitro shoes are out yet. Try speedtechrc for a good selection of foams. I run ellegis or mugen fast.

[Insane Rival]

WOW! thanks for the help! if anybody goes to hpiracing.com im AssociatedGTDriver

[Insane Rival]

btw, do ball drivers strip screws out faster then the regular hexes?

[HP7]

Originally posted by Insane Rival
btw, do ball drivers strip screws out faster then the regular hexes?

I switch from ball to hex because of that but, my ball drivers were cheap duratrax. My hex I bought are ofna. I think they were $30 from tower.

[TC3Kamikaze]

I used ball hexes on my planes but not totally on my cars. I use one for the trans cases and radio plate. They do come in handy on hard to get at spots. Which thankfully the NTC3 doesn't have.

[Temjin006]

Is the Swing Rack Bearing Kit and the Brake Cam Bearing Kit useful. I dont brake that much so I really dont think the brake cam bearing will be that useful. How about the Swing Rack bears? Are they useful?

[FrankyRizzo]

The brake bearings are not that critical. The steering block bushings will get out of round real quick so change those ASAP.

[atm92484_3]

Defiently get the steering bearings. I have both sets, but the steering ones are a lot more noticable.

[TUCRACEMAN]

Hey ATM, I know you've expained it before, but how exactly did you do the fuel tank modification?

~Dave

[TC3Kamikaze]

I'm not ATM but here's what I did.
Option 1. Plug the pressure line with a small screw. Then tap a pressure tap on the lid or neck of the tank. ( I went with one in the neck) Curenntly I went back to the original tank and have no problems now, go figure.
Option 2. AE is suppose to have a tank out soon 7719 I believe is the part number that has the pressure tap on the lid.

[coastal-tony]

To all
Associated has a new fuel tank, part # 7719

[ponky_wonky]

will the os 12 tr turbo version with 1.3 hp and claimed 38000 rpm fit nicely and perform nicly in my ntc3?
my lhs is gettin them in about two weeks
thanks in advance for the input

[TC3Kamikaze]

Yeah it'll fit in there. Looks like a screamer, can't wait to see one in a car. Might have to give it a try myself.

[bimmerboym3]

Don't trust OS engines at all. These engines are not for racing and only good for playing around.. A waste of money. Buy any novarossi made engines.. they cost a little bit more but very fast and dependable. Plus you won't be shy to show your car to other racers in the race track... As they say, OS engines are for beginners... If you want to be classified as one, then get an OS....


NTC3 Rules !!!!!

[PremierRC]

Hi all. I'm new but i figure out a cool mod. Maybe someone has posted it here before but for those that maye interested. I hate my bumper on my NTC3 (keeps breakin). So i put on the traxxas foam bumper part # 4835. Th bumpr is solid foam. extremely durable and doesn't scratch my paint when i hve my little accidents. The bumper fits on perfectly and looks 5 times better. All you have to do is poke one little hole and it fits right in. No need for the bottom plastic that breaks al the tim anyways. Never had a bumper problem again and only costed 5 bucks. Wish i could howyou guys the pic but trust me it look nice. My best mod yet.

[FrankyRizzo]

Beg to differ on that. I have always been a Novarossi fan but I have to say that the TR has been very reliable and powerful. It's one of the only OS' that I have liked. Easy to tune and powerful on the low end. It suits my driving style better.

BTW the MT-12 doesn't come with a plugged crank like the TR does.

I am not trying to start a better engine war but I willl have to say try the TR first. I know the other OS' have been less than race spec quality, but I have been pretty impressed with this one.

[Tee]

Originally posted by PremierRC
Hi all. I'm new but i figure out a cool mod. Maybe someone has posted it here before but for those that maye interested. I hate my bumper on my NTC3 (keeps breakin). So i put on the traxxas foam bumper part # 4835. Th bumpr is solid foam. extremely durable and doesn't scratch my paint when i hve my little accidents. The bumper fits on perfectly and looks 5 times better. All you have to do is poke one little hole and it fits right in. No need for the bottom plastic that breaks al the tim anyways. Never had a bumper problem again and only costed 5 bucks. Wish i could howyou guys the pic but trust me it look nice. My best mod yet.

Yes!! I too am "Protected by Traxxas". Hey are you the one that told me at Airborne? and won the radio?

[nIkKo]

I have a couple of questions. I am deciding between the ss and the ntc3 rtr and then put a two speed in that.

How much maintenance a week do you guys do on your cars?

I am not going to ask how much you like them because i am sure you do but what features dont you like or what featurees are problem actic?

Does anyone have the ntc3 rtr? Likes dislikes?

[FrankyRizzo]

The RTR just came out not too long ago. I would have to say that if it has all the goodies the team version has it is a screamin deal. Hobby People has them advertised for $299.

It's a hell of a start.

[PremierRC]

Sorry Tee but it wasnt me at airborne. Does anyone know anything bout the .12 JP engines? Performance wise, durability, fuel hungry? Anything you can tell me bout thm will help. Also where would be a good place to get one.

[atm92484_3]

Nikko, the RTR doesn't have all of the parts the Team does (no 2 speed, CVDs, aluminum shocks, rear exhaust, AE tank, Proline tires/rims) but it is a bargain for $300. Plus, the 2 speed runs for around $40 so for $340, you have a RTR that will spank pretty much any other RTR out there. I'll be interested to see if the .12 included with the NTC3 RTR is a sleeper like the AE 15 that comes with the GT RTR.

Bimmer, the 12 TR is a race engine. The 12 CV-R is their next closest thing but even that is a nice engine. I find it hard to believe that you own the engine due to the way you are knocking on it. Like Franky said, the 12 TR is extremely easy to tune and a rocket on the low end. I'm only running the 12 TR; the 12 TR-T will only be faster.

[FrankyRizzo]

PremierRC


I had a JP mod and I swapped it out for a OS TR. It was a bit finicky and a bit tempermental to hot weather. If you like the Nova based engines then you will like the added power the JP has to offer in cooler climates. I switched to the TR because it seems to offer more low end punch that works well with my driving style and is better apt for the desert heat.

[ponky_wonky]

so in other words, the majority of the people here think i should buy the os 12 tr turbo version correct?
and one more thing, i was wondering if a 12 tr turbo could accept the use of a normal glow plug and i was wondering how much the average glow plug costs,
turbo and normal
sorry bout all the questions, thxs in advance:D

[FrankyRizzo]

Why bother with the hassle. The TR is ROAR legal less headache and less problems in the long run. Don't have to pay $8 a plug. To get a standard button and shim it properly to get the compression right is a pain also.

I would say just get a standard TR and be happy. Run 30% nitro ( I just switched today and what an awesome difference) and break it in to a tee according to the instructions.

[PremierRC]

thanks for the info on the jp frankyrizzo. Do you know anything about the collari engines?

[coastal-tony]

I have a Collari XS 12 pull-start, slide carb (pull-start) in mine. It has great low end punch, and it has unbelievable top speed. I have been running Nova C-12's in the past, down here in S Florida.
I will swap my tank out tomorrow with a Serpent tank, having the right turn over rich problem.

[TUCRACEMAN]

I don't think bimmer knows what he's talking about. :rolleyes: Anywho, thank you kamikazi y Tony. I think I'll do that and go buy a new tank later. Btw, what is the diffrence between the standard and the "turbo" head?
~Dave:

[PremierRC]

I was thinking about putting a one-way or the solid axel in the front of my car. What's the difference between the two? what does it do to the handling?

[EngenZerO]

hey guys I just ordered a NPS 3-shoe flywheel, extra copper springs and more shoes. I have a few questions. Will I be needing to trim the shoes so that all threee will fit or can I just put them onto the flywheel. If I do need to trim what would be the most minimum I need to trim ( I saw someone mention 1/8 from the shoes so that they will engage better?) Thanks again...

edit...dunno if this helps but I will be running a OS .12 TR

Ozzie

[CHUCKMANDO]

I have been running this car for a few months now on the weekends. 2 weeks ago or so, I noticed the car veering to one side. I started by redoing the one diff, then the other. I replaced all the beerings in the wheel hubs which were shot. Still had the problem. I switched tires and still have problems.
I replaced 2 of the 4 diff beerings which my LHS said were no good. I went out late yesterday and the car pulls to the left under hard excelertion and will spin out to the right under heavy breaking. Car goes pretty straight under slow to moderate exceleraton. Even if I cut the wheel left and brake hard you can see the car fighting to go right. The car was at the standard ride height. I tried to use the tweek method with the knife. Car was out of balance. I adjusted the ride height on the opposite shock at it seemed to help some, then it got dark. Please help with any ideas, a friend told me it is still the diffs, but I am not sure. I am just about ready to drive my sons rs4 3 ss and give up.
Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

[PremierRC]

I Had similar problems after running my car for a few weeks. My car always veered to one side uner hard acceleration and it would turn around if i applied the brakes hard. I am new to rc cars but what i didt solve the problem was i went back and tightened the dff ecxactly according to the instructions (1/4 turns out in the front). Then when my car was going slightly to one side i would adjust the spring on that side slightly. (looking down at the spring i turn it clockwise) I just made small adjustments. I also watched to see if the rear end seemed to be turning the car. If it was i would adjust the spring opposite to the side it was turning to the same way i described before. For the braking problem I adjusted the brake end point so that it wouldnt brake too hard. seemed to solve my problems. but i am a newbie to all of this. Another thing to look at would be the ride height after you run yor car a little. Sometimes running conditions changes how my car sits. Just what i tried :D

[Temjin006]

Is the mugen fuel tank cap a direct fit for the associated tank or is there some mod i have to do? Is there a easier way then to replace the cap? Is drilling a hole at the neck of the tank a good idea? I really dont know what i should do. Please help.

[TC3Kamikaze]

If you can wait for a bit. The new tank associated made should be out soon. Part #7719 It's setup with the pressure line in the lid.

[Tee]

You should check to see if your rear toe in is the same on each side. If it's NOT and you correct it with the steering trim, that would definitely make your car veer off to one side. Also, check every other adjustment and make the same. As mentioned, setting tweak is super important. I myself don't put too much trust in the picking up the car "in the center with a blade" approach, as you are then depending on perfectly bled shocks to be present (probably doesn't exist in my world). I use an MIP tweak station, it seems to do the job well. If you are really sensitive to weight, you can also try lifting a wheel a specific distance and seeing if it's counterpart feels like it weighs the same; not exactly perfect, but you will be able to spot a gross tweak error. I've found that this car holds tweak well, and only really goes out of adjustment if something bad happens, such as the famous loosening shock towers.

One last thing, unglued or de-glued tires or the whole wheel assembly coming loose (the blue nuts don't exactly fit the axle and come loose unless glued) will feel very similar.

[CHUCKMANDO]

Thanks for the replies. I went out tonight and the car only veered slightly, but noticeable enough. My tweek helped but not perfect. I went to my LHS and as always, he was very helpful. He used the lift the tire method and made some adjustments. Good news, the cars goes almost perfectly straight. Still spins out when brakes lock, but I can get away with stopping. I just have to be gentle. I will recheck my rear toe-in but I believe they wereat 3 in apiece. I really do not want to mess with the car to much till Sat, which if all goes well in pactice, will be my first real race at a track and not parking lot stuff. I would have hate to have my son with his HPI SS whoop me, the fist time we go to a track. The track is a small technicle track and according to FastHarry's posts, he should have the advantage. Tee, I may have to get a tweek station after all. Oh with the towers, I read today that aluminum diff cases are in the works and I think shock towers are also.

[Tee]

I've also found that bent pivot balls can make the car feel unbalanced right to left. What a bent pivot ball will give you is different caster angles, which is to say, bad. I've since replaced my front pivot balls with Mugen MRX-3 pivot balls. There threaded (larger!) section is the size the pivot balls should have been, IMHO. You'll have to drill out your arms to allow them to thread in. Sort of costly, at $30.00 for two (2) titanium balls, but nearly indestructible. They also have the standard steel version for about $9.00 per package of two (these are probably even stronger than titanium).

[us_matrix]

Hi guys,

I was wondering what brand and model of starter box you guys are using for Nitro TC3? How good are they? Any recommendation? I am looking for a starter box that i could just use one hand to push down and start it.

[FrankyRizzo]

The AE one works awesome as usual. Just add battery and use.

[us_matrix]

I think i would get the AE box since you guys have good feedback with it.
BTW, Do you guys use 2 packs of 7.2v battery or 12v gel cell battery to start? Which one is better? Are 7.2v strong enough to start?
I have a 12v gel cell battery from a Ofna starter box and does it fit right inside of the AE box?

[atm92484_3]

I'm using the Ofna box (dual motor) with a 12v lead-acid cell battery.

[FrankyRizzo]

One of my friends made the full size gell cell fit but it shorted and fried itself real bad due to the lack of clearance on the terminals.

I got a 3 amphour battery about 1/2 as deep as the regular battery and servo taped it to the inside of the box. I also hard wired the charger connection so I don't ever have to remove the battery itself. If you go back a few pages in the thread there is a pic of it. I have never run out of power at a race.

[nitrogator]

I have had my NTC3 with O.S. TR for 2 months and just got it radared by a officer using his laser Radar. It hit 41 mph with stock gearing and rubber tires tuned to run 220 degree's F. I was running Byrons 15% nitro, 18% oil, and I have no doubt it would hit 45mph with 30% nitro and leaned out to 270-280 degrees. Just thought NTC3 owners would want to know how fast the stock setup goes. Good luck.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by blimey
HM...Well here is mine.We race in a parking lot series.
Camber front and rear 2 degrees
Castor 9 degrees
Front toe 0 degrees
rear toe 2 degrees
front shock 60 wt
rear shock 40 wt
front spring yellow
rear spring copper
no sway bars
stratus body(proline)
TRC dbl purple front,purple rear
ride height 5 to 5.5 mm
We run on a semi rough surface(track isn't bumpy the asphalt is unsealed) with no traction compound
My son and I have been finishing mid pack in the A with this set up....against some very good drivers.

Blimey,

thank you! Sorry for the late reply

[coastal-tony]

HM
Get some red springs
Got an old TC3 sway-bar? Try it on the front

[Temjin006]

HI

I would like to know what tires come with the non pull start TC3 kit and what compound they are. Did anyone here use them? What type of inserts will give me the base traction on asphalt?

[FrankyRizzo]

They are Prolines. Use it for breaking in engine and such. Other than that they are useless.

[atm92484_3]

The stock NTC3 tires are the Proline V-Rages (I am pretty sure they are the S3 compound). As many have found, these tires do not last very long, especially on any surface that provides decent traction. If I were you, I wouldn't mess around trying to tune the car with them and instead invest in some better tires (people seem to like the Sorex tires).

[Temjin006]

What tires and inserts do you guys prefer on flat asphalt. I really dont want to run foams because they can be a pain after running the car. The dust from the foams get all over your car and takes longer to clean. I want to use rubber but i havent have any experience with them because I dont know the type of tires and inserts I will need. Someone from my track told me you need firm insert. Is that true? Can someone give me a suggestion of a certain combo of tires and inserts?

[coastal-tony]

Team Sorex has some decent rubber tires.
36R, or 40Rs are quite firm, good for hot weather. Try HPI medium or firm inserts.
Any other sugestions out there on rubber.
Pro-Line must make a tire that will compete?

[nitrogator]

I'm using Takeoff premounted 35 slick rubber tires. They are very durable and were $34 for 4. Good luck.

[atm92484_3]

Right now I am running *gasp* HPI Advans (the hottest compound) with blue inserts. They seem to work pretty well on an unprepared parking lot but I could see a prepped track eating them almost as fast as V-Rages.

[FrankyRizzo]

If you have an air compressor that puts out anything above a puff of air then using foams is not as bad as you think. I swear by foams and hate gluing tires to begin with.

If you have to use rubber go with the GS Medial Pro medium compund. You don't have to mess with inserts and they are sticky as hell.

[speedydave]

What kind of life are you guys getting out of your tires? Which tires/inserts(or foams) are you running?

[stefan]

I'm selling m basically brand new NTC3.
Never raced, just run about 5 tanks for setup.

Check it out: NTC3 for sale (http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6827)

[syme71]

Anyone know where I can get aluminum replacements for the #6472 shock nuts?

[EngenZerO]

syme

I am using some BK 4-40 low profile lock nuts from Trinity. the seem to fit rather snug... #TTK3075

ozzie

[Tee]

Originally posted by EngenZerO
syme

I am using some BK 4-40 low profile lock nuts from Trinity. the seem to fit rather snug... #TTK3075

ozzie

If the nuts you chose use a 1/4 inch nut driver to install and have a larger head size than the original plastic nuts, they're too big (opinion!). I had tried some aluminum nuts (The Associated blue ones; not "low profile" though), and removed them because of the poor fit. When you say "snug", do you mean the corners of the nut hitting the shock cap as you try to tighten it up? That's what my experience was. I tried the aluminum nuts the same size as the original plastic nuts, those are much better fitting, as they let the shock swivel just like the plastic nuts.

[EngenZerO]

well I use one of the molded tools that came with the kit to tighten them on (kinda have to tighten them on an angle). These nuts do not touch the shock caps at all, but when you tighten them the tool touches (which I why I angle the tool to tighten). The nuts themselves are close but they do not touch the shock caps. After they are on I have about a .5 of a mm of screw showing at the end (if that makes any sense) I usualy hand tighten them on then give two turns with the molded tool. My shocks are still free moving and dont seem to be affected. If I had a digi cam I would have put some pictures up :(

edit...i may be able to swing by my dads work tomorrow and use his digi cam to swipe up some pictures...

edit two...these nuts seem to fit on both the aluminum caps (which I run on front) and the plastic caps (which I run on the rear)...
ozzie

[FrankyRizzo]

I use the aluminum ones on the swing rack also. The plastic ones kept backing out.

[ponky_wonky]

hey guys, i need info, fast!
i need to know if an o.s. 12 tr turbo version can accept a normal o.s. glow plug like the one from the normal tr, i cant wait for my first race tomorrow, the thing is, the club doesn't allow turbo glowplugs, they told me last minute so i really need to no if the turbo 12 tr will accept a non turbo glow plug, thank you so much for answering if you do, it means a lot to me, i'll give you the race results tomorrow or some time soon, peace out

[rcnutt]

hey franky rizzo where can I pick up the GS Medial Pro tires? thanks, rcnutt

[FrankyRizzo]

shoot an email to teamtaylorracing@earthlink.com

Tell him you got it off the TC3 thread.

[Mojo]

I got a few sets of GS Medial Pro tires from Bruckner Hobbies about a month ago. I like 'em. They hook-up real well compared to other brands but I still use foams for serious racing. Great price/value tire, IMHO.

Mojo

[syme71]

Originally posted by Tee


I tried the aluminum nuts the same size as the original plastic nuts, those are much better fitting, as they let the shock swivel just like the plastic nuts.

Tee...

Do you have a part# for the nuts you speak about? (that didn't sound right =) )

[syme71]

Anyone ever use the HPI Advans? How do they compare to the GS Medial Pros?

Also, is it true that tires will last longer on dish rims versus a spoked rim.

[FEARLESS INC]

Just recieved my used NTC3 with an OS .12 CVRX. I'm considering removing the starting unit, cutting crank and going CVR and run a starter box (which I already own).

Got a few question before I start though...

-> Is there a noticable difference in power from a .12 CVRX to a .12 CVR?
-> Would I need to change my present pullstart engine mounts to a set of non-pullstart engine mounts?
-> Flywheel must be changed as well... true?

Anyone running the 3 shoe shoe clutch set up? Feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[atm92484_3]

Why not just leave the recoil on and use the starter box? You could hack the nub off on the crankshaft, buy a backplate, get the NPS engine mounts and NPS flywheel (if you use one, you need the other), but its kind of a pain IMO. Plus if your starter box dies one day, atleast you'll have a back-up way to start the engine. As for power, it isn't so much more power, but non pullstart engines can rev slightly faster than pullstart engines due to less rotating mass.

[FEARLESS INC]

So if decide to keep the PS unit on, I would still need to get a NPS flywheel if I do wish use a starter box, right?

[TC3Kamikaze]

ATM is right, I currently use the pullstart kit with a non pull engine. Haven't changed over to the non pull mounts and flywheel yet. Just use it as is for now later you could always switch over. If you were to switch over and still have the recoil then there would be a clearance problem. Since the engine would sit lower. imo

[lotus1]

Has anyone tried the MIP clutch intheir NTC3? Just wondering if there is a smoother clutch.Thanks,Mario

[atm92484_3]

I seriously doubt the MIP clutch for the GT will fit. I've already done some measuring, and the NTC3's flywheel's pins are further out than those on the GT.

[ponky_wonky]

i TQ'd the race and got second overall in the race, i just bought a normal 12 tr instead of the turbo version, man, does this engine have power or what! AT MY TRACK THERE IS A HUGE STRAIGHT AWAY, THE GUY WHO WAS FIGURING OUT EVERYONE'S SPEED, WAS USING THE 100 FT LINES TECHNIQUE AND THE DUDE CLOCKED MY ntc3 AT 54.2 MPH! GO FIGURE!bY THE WAY, I'M RUNNING ON JACO FOAMS AND O'DONNEL 2O% FUEL, EVERYTHING ELSE IS STOCK

[FrankyRizzo]

Good job Ponky. I was running the 20% but I made the step and got 30% and what a difference. More power through out the band.

[ponky_wonky]

i might switch to 30% later but i dont wanna overdo my engine breakin in rite! once my engine has gone through about a gallon of fuel then i'll probablly switch to 30%, thxs for the "good job", i appreciate it,i forget to mention that i was against tg-10r's, impulses, gt4's and rs43 ss, the heavily modified impulse beat me out, he had a crazy set up too,
peace out

[FrankyRizzo]

Doesn't hurt to do it right from the start. You will have to do a mild break in again, about a tank or 2 just to watch temp.

[ponky_wonky]

thxs for the info, what final drive ratio do you recommend, or is the stock 2.5:1 efficient enough?

[FrankyRizzo]

I am running 21 and 27 pinions and 54 and 48 spurs. I like the punch and the top end.

[ponky_wonky]

has anyone here tried the RB concept 3 port x-12 non-turbo version? My friend is getting a NTC3, i tried to tell him to get the os 12 tr but he said he doesn't like os engines because they are for beginners, which i totally disagree, the 12 tr is superb but he wants something "better". He says the team associated drivers put rb concepts in their Ntc3's so he wants to copy them given that billy easton nearly won the race if it hadn't of been for the serpent team who knocked billy rite out of the race,
anyways, i was wondering if anyone, i mean if ANYONE has tried an RB Concept X-12 non-turbo engine in their ntc3
thxs in advance

[coastal-tony]

PW
I have a pull-start XS in my PS NTC3
This is a BAD BOY engine
Nothing like my Nova Rossi engines.
A little tempermental on tuning, but, "watch-out", it screams.

[CHUCKMANDO]

I run the x-12. Tough to tune, but when done right, it flies. You should not be disappointed with this engine. Almost noone beats me in the straights. Nice pickup. I am going to try to get the 5 port turbo next.

[nitrogator]

Ponky Wonky, I just got my NTC3 laser radared by an officer of the law and the best I could get with stock gearing and O.S. TR was 41mph. This was my best run out of 6 high speed passes. I was running 15% nitro, and I know that running increased nitro will not pick up 13mph. The 100ft line technique is full of opportunity for mistakes. Figure out the theoritical speed for your setup using the speed calculator on this website, you'll be surprised. Good luck and congrades on the TQ and 2nd place.

[FEARLESS INC]

Thanks for the help guys :)

[nitroguy2001]

hey guys.
I got a couple questions for you all. How easy is the NTC3 to setup and tune? For you guys that have been racing the car for a while have you experianced any kinds of problems with the car, like drive train stuff and setups getting out of whack. Also the durability of the car, like if you break a hub by just a board tap, or it takes some kind of horiffic crash that when the car finnaly lands people are in the pits clapping and cheering that it wasnt disintigrated. lol

One last thing: if there is anybody running on a medium sized parking lot track with some pretty tight curves what setup are u running?

thanks a bunch for the help
NITRO RULESSSSSS!!!!!!!!

PS. the NTC3 is my first choice right now because I have messed with belts racing a N 4-tec and its not fun so I opted for the shaft drive. But let me know

Brian~

[ponky_wonky]

hey atm_92484_3, didn't your NTC3 hit53.4 mph with everything stock and withan os 12 tr?
nitrogator-thanks for the congrats, but i'm pretty sure that my car will do at least 50 with the os 12 tr
ask anyone in this forum
i could be wrong?????:confused:

[atm92484_3]

That 53.4 was an average speed for about a dozen passes. I had a few crappy runs where the car got sideways due to the wonderful parking lot (would have been perfect for a Nitro TC3 Rally) and the speed was probably into the mid 40s. I also had a ton of room to allow the engine to reach max rpms before I hit the line. I don't plan on doing that too much though due to the stress it puts on the engine.

[Mojo]

I'm trying to set-up my new Futaba 3PJS for my NTC3 and I'm more than a little confused by all of the features. The manual on this puppy is not the most thought out piece of literature.

What I'd like to find out more about is "exponential throttle control". What are the benefits? What am I trying to acheive? and what's the difference between EXP/EXP2 and CRV?

BTW, I'm using an OS 15 CVR w/slide carb.

Thanks!

Mojo

[ponky_wonky]

my friend dilliongot his rb concept engine and man is it fast! He always beats me in straitaways and he's hardly broken in his engine!!!The rb concept x-12 is in my opinion is much better than the o.s. 12 tr!!!The x-12 is just so fast!I wonder how it does at the track?

[ponky_wonky]

does anyone know if you have to make modifications to the car or engine to fit the x-12 in the NTC3? also, i think i might get the rb concept x-12 later on for serious racing, all though i still think the os 12 tr is a great engine
woulod all of you guys recommend getting a x-12 3 port engine later on ?
and is the 5 port x-12 significantly more powerful than the 3 port non-turbo x-12, input would be much appreciated

[CHUCKMANDO]

I run the x-12 3 port. When tuned right, it is super fast. I have ony been driving for seveal months now on the weekends so my driving is a little eratic at times but when I get into a grove with this engine, my ntc3 flies, We have been running on a nice smooth parking lot with a very large track so the 1/8's can run. I can say that I stay with the impacts on the straights, not too concerned with just about any legal 12's. The .12 engines that have been close in overall speed were a jp modified but I was able to handle him, but the rb 5 port turbo, we haven't really raced to much. He is tring to sell car but he appears to be faster.
The 1/8 do not pull that much ahead either, but they are nt winding out 2nd yet. I do.