Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v1.0

[80mph ntc3]

Speed Freak512 is right. a car and a baseball have a huge mass difference but scouts and such still use a radar gun to clock a pitchers fast ball. if you arein the mid 70's, all the power to you.

[nitrogator]

Where can I find a dealer on the internet that sales rubber sealed clutch bearings for the NTC3. My original's only lasted about 15 tanks of fuel. Thanks.

[atm92484_3]

Dynamite makes some nice rubber sealed bearings though and they won't cost an arm and a leg either. Check your settings after you install the new bearings. Either those bearings went bad or something is wrong with your car's settings (possibly idle too high or clutch engauging too late).

[PremierRC]

Does anyone know anything about the trinity rossi .12 motors? On their website they claim to be ROAR legal and put out 1.8 horsepower. That sounds kinda extreme to me but i wanted to know if they were good motors anyway?

Thanks a bunch

[nitrogator]

I have a NTC3 and just installed a big block .15 in it. I machined some new engine mounts and used a dremel with router attachment to make minor modifications to the chassis by widening the factory engine mount screws holes for the wider big block crankcase. I can now change between my O.S. TR and the O.S. RX .15 in less than 5 minutes. I'm going to use the .15 for parking lot bashing and the TR for races. The .15 RX is rated at 1.2 hp stock, so I slighlty opened up the porting and knife edged the connecting rod. I hope it really performs and the only thing stopping me is clutch bearings that are on the way.

[atm92484_3]

Lookin' good nitro.

[Rushack]

Nitrogator, you do not want rubber sealed clutch bearings. They will decintegrate. The seals create friction, whitch create heat under those high rpm's. You best bet is the stock bearings, unsealed rear, with metal sheilded front.


Has anyone put a .21 in a Ntc3 yet? I have a hyper laying around...

[TC3Kamikaze]

Gator also put a .21 in his car. I don't think it'd be worth the effort though. imo

[nitrogator]

Rushack, I have used rubber sealed clutchbell bearings on my 1/8 scale offroad with no problems under very high rpm and brutal dirt and sand conditions. I looked for dynamite bearings and they don't make the flanged sealed bearing size, so I'm still open to suggestions. My front bearing disentegrated and the back bearing was perfect. I'm starting to suspect a defective front bearing. Thanks.

As for the .21 in a NTC3, I have a few powerful .21's that I could use, but I'm not going to go there. The big block .15 just fits in it, so major modification would have to be made to the chassis and exhaust (move fuel tank, entire costume exhaust, heavy duty diff's and gears) to get it performing. Does anyone know if it's alright to use the stock rear exhaust for the NTC3, or do big block .15's need more exhaust volume?

[Rushack]

ask ATM, i dont know what too much power is.

I have my ways to make anything fit. But i dont honestly think a .21 ntc3 is needed. i like the speed it has now, but i also like to be the first to do things too.
I was also contemplating throwint in an OS .12LD engine in there. That would be cool too.

ATM, why dont you try that? You should still have that one laying around from your NMT. ;)

[TC3Kamikaze]

Gator the only place I know online that might have it, is bocabearings. They carry all types of bearings for most of the cars.

[coastal-tony]

OK, I'm ready to get it on the track.
I installed a Collari XS12, with PS, and I had to use 7" of fuel feed line, to keep the line off the engine case. I installed a fuel fitting on the side of the fill cap.
Are there any recommendations on the length of the pressure line?

[80mph ntc3]

check out almost all aluminum ntc3 for auction on ebay. seller claims it hit 85mph. i inquired about it and he says he used a paris ct12 modified engine with 52/48 and 23/27 gears. tire diameter is 3.1 in.

[ponky_wonky]

85 mph!!!thats crazy, thats nearly impossible, even if he did have a larger tire diameter he would need more power and torque to push those 3.1 inch wheels, i dont believe it, but then again anything is possible!

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Rushack
ATM, why dont you try that? You should still have that one laying around from your NMT. ;)

LOL bits and pieces..... It donated a piston, sleeve, wrist pin, and connecting rod to a 12 CV about a year ago but I still have the case to play with. I doubt it would fit though since the head would interfere with the center shaft. As for too much power, would you be referring to tossing a .21 in a Rush? :)

Mid 70s is possible with that configuration, but even then it would take the engine spooling to 35,000 rpms to hit just 72 mph. It would take 41,000 rpms to hit 85 mph. Atleast this time though the claim is something close and atleast slightly possible.

[jnegrx]

i have picco engine (trinity) and i think it's a great engine for the ntc3 but it seems that every one in this thead is using an OS. What do you think about picco engines. I was going to put in an Ofna picco .12 7ports but has anyone has used that engine.

[us_matrix]

Hi,

Has any one installed Front Blade Roll bar kit? What is this for? (Better handleing) Any difference between Front blade roll bar and F/R sway bar kit? I just build the TC3 Nitro and was wondering any parts are necessary to be upgraded or any parts need to be kept as spare parts?

Thanks.

[nitrogator]

I just broke in my O.S. .15 RX pictured a few pages earlier. I have 5 tanks through it and it's still running rich. It has alot more low end torque than my O.S. TR, and would easily break the wheels loose at factory breakin settings. I have not put any high speed runs on it yet, but will soon. It was a bear to break in, reminding of the days of breaking in Novarossi .21's. I ported it very lightly and I believe it will run away from the TR when completly broken in. I'll keep you updated on it's progress. Good luck.

[FrankyRizzo]

Has any one installed Front Blade Roll bar kit? What is this for? (Better handleing) Any difference between Front blade roll bar and F/R sway bar kit?

There is quite a difference. The blade style can be adjusted by turning it from a flat position to an upright one. The flat way allows for some sway while the upright allows none. I keep mine at a 45% angle as to give me good turn in speed and turn out.

The F/R sway an be adjusted by changing out the wire diameter. Barry Baker used a .078 wire when he ran at the Silver Bowl this year. I seem to like the mild action of the stock wire.

[FrankyRizzo]

any parts need to be kept as spare parts?

pillow balls
spare arms ( they all come in one pack)
Bumpers (unless you get one of mine)
Diff cases (not so bad when you change out the mid and high
side mounting screws from 3/8 to 1/2 inch)
Change the stock ball ends to the RPM ones. Save your self alot of headache up front
1 word "Lunsford" change all of them.

Oh yeah and the blue drive shaft has a cool turbo effect and makes it go faster.

The last one is BS

Good luck

[atm92484_3]

Well the inevitable finally happened. Any updates from you guys with the RPM bumpers? I've already ordered one; I'm just hoping they are better.

[Rushack]

The RPM bumpers are indestructable. I have one good race day in on them, Really hard hits too. Well worth the mula.

[ponky_wonky]

how much are the rpm bumpers in canadian dollars?

[FrankyRizzo]

I have produced a few that have held up very well. I have them for $10.00 shipped to your door. If you are interested send me an email at rotorhead@lvcm.com

They come in white and black.

[FrankyRizzo]

Pic of it:

[tOrcHed Lh]

i have one that franky sent me and it hasnt' broke yet..... it's great...

franky,
you're not gonna get 10 dollars for a no name white or black bumper, when you can get a RPM "indisctructible" blue bumper for the same price...
yours are great quailty but you're not gonna get many customers....
maybe sell them for 6 bucks?? probably not worth it.

[jnegrx]

I'm still using the factory bumper. It's the second one but it has more than four races and still in there, guess it's better to be lucky than good

Does anybody knows where i can get a board of graphite? My lhs has some fiberglass but i want graphite.

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo


pillow balls
spare arms ( they all come in one pack)
Bumpers (unless you get one of mine)
Diff cases (not so bad when you change out the mid and high
side mounting screws from 3/8 to 1/2 inch)
Change the stock ball ends to the RPM ones. Save your self alot of headache up front
1 word "Lunsford" change all of them.

Oh yeah and the blue drive shaft has a cool turbo effect and makes it go faster.

The last one is BS

Good luck

Do you have the part no. for change the stock ball ends to RMP and pillow balls?
What is Lunsford?
If you have their web site and where i can get it.
Very appreciate

[FrankyRizzo]

Deleted

[FrankyRizzo]

As far as making a no name bumper, I am going with PFFRacing. I think that $10 is fair considering you don't pay tax and it is shipped to your door.

i want graphite

How much do you need? What thickness? I haven't made a carbon fiber bumper because it is not ROAR legal. If I get enough non ROAR racers who want on I will make one.

Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles. RPM ball ends are available in many colors and are at most LHS. Just use the AE pillow balls.

[EngenZerO]

well guys, I think I messed up my engine....

After my breakin I let my car cool, and I dumped (alot, realy alot) of Trinity ARO into my engine...the next day I saw a puddle of oil by my flywheel, so I cleaned up the mess and got worried (monday), tuesday rolls by, there is more oil again by the flywheel (worried even more and email O.S.). So now today...no more oil, but a few residual drops on the bounty I placed under my car....I also recieved the email from O.S. stating that this is not normal and would not be covered under my warrenty (great).

So now, what did I do wrong...i broke my engine in rich and leaned it out accordingly...its actually still rich and I want to lean it out more....each pass I did I had smoke coming out of my pipe...I am afraid I may have over heated my engine...it was pretty hot that day when I broke her in 98F....eeek

Another possibility...my car is elevated on the OS engine box (i am cheap and couldnt get a car stand) I have the majority cars front end weight sitting on the box...so my car is sitting at a slant with the rear down and the front up...so I am thinking oil leaked cause of that...

I dont realy think I damaged my engine cause it started up great and ran great all on sunday...I let her cool and then bump started her and she fired right up...no problems...but then again I am a n00b...lol...

So am I paranoid or did I do the unthinkable and damage my new TR...LOL

Oz

[FrankyRizzo]

I think it is really nothing to be concerned about. I think that the way you had your engine stored would cause that. I have had minor seepage through a front bearing and it did not affect performance. Worst case senario you replace the front bearing. If it continues to run well then don't sweat it.

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
As far as making a no name bumper, I am going with PFFRacing. I think that $10 is fair considering you don't pay tax and it is shipped to your door.



How much do you need? What thickness? I haven't made a carbon fiber bumper because it is not ROAR legal. If I get enough non ROAR racers who want on I will make one.

Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles. RPM ball ends are available in many colors and are at most LHS. Just use the AE pillow balls.

I just upgraded front/rear/steering turnbuckles to Factory team option blue Titanium turnbuckles. I was wondering can i replace those stock ball ends to RPM? Are they fit right into Factory team titanium turnbuckles? (I thought the stock ball ends are made by RPM already? Please correct me if i am wrong)

[FrankyRizzo]

Are they fit right into Factory team titanium turnbuckles? (I thought the stock ball ends are made by RPM already? Please correct me if i am wrong)

They will fit onto the factory team ones. The rear turnbuckle ends are made by RPM ( the heavy gray ones). They are a different diameter than the front ones.

[jnegrx]

engenzero

the oil that you saw was the after run oil that you put in your engine. The bearings in the motor are not sealed they are shielded so oil in your fuel lubricates them so noworries ok.
I get the same seepage when i put a lot of ARO and the performance hasn't suffered .

Franky all i need is about a square foot of 1/8 or 1/4 it all depends on the price.

[jnegrx]

engenzero

the oil that you saw was the after run oil that you put in your engine. The bearings in the motor are not sealed they are shielded so oil in your fuel lubricates them so noworries ok.
I get the same seepage when i put a lot of ARO and the performance hasn't suffered.

Franky all i need is about a square foot of 1/8 or 1/4 it all depends on the price.

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I have a MT-12 engine on NTC3 but the temp is running about 270 degree, (I am afraid that is too hot?) The engine rev up and down (like the car move forward little bit , and keep doing it again and again) when the engine is in idle or running. The engine has been fully broken in already.
Any help or suggestion would be very appreciate.

[jnegrx]

us_matrix
imo it's too hot maybe 230 or 235. Check the fuel line if it has air bubbles or if you have an air leak somewhere. I'm not sure this will help but try it. Also did you modified the stock tank. The preasure from the pipe can cause bubbles in the tank and cause erratic engine tune. Hope this helps if not post again maybe someone else knows the answer.

[snoddj]

Greetings from New Zealand guys. I'm a newbie and just joined the band of NTC3 owners. Sad to say, as far as I know, I'm the only one with this car in NZ. Most guys run Vone-Rs or TG10-R. Guess we'll see how this baby goes against these guys one day. Hope you could guide or help me out as I get to know more about this car. For starters, here's my ride on a Frewer Porsche GT1. Pictures aren't so good though.

[snoddj]

and another one

[nitrogator]

Nice ride snoddj, I'm sure that body will keep your NTC3 hooked up. Good luck.

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by jnegrx
us_matrix
imo it's too hot maybe 230 or 235. Check the fuel line if it has air bubbles or if you have an air leak somewhere. I'm not sure this will help but try it. Also did you modified the stock tank. The preasure from the pipe can cause bubbles in the tank and cause erratic engine tune. Hope this helps if not post again maybe someone else knows the answer.

How do i check air leak ? How do i reduec the temp to 230?
What else could be other than that?

[FrankyRizzo]

Originally posted by us_matrix


How do i check air leak ? How do i reduec the temp to 230?
What else could be other than that?

Best bet is to replace your fuel lines. Also if you have left fuel in your lines for any period of time I have pulled off the carb and used denatured alcohol to clean it out. There is a product called Nitro Blast that is a fuel additive that works awesome. Provides more lubricant and therefore reducing temps in engines.

[snoddj]

Thanks nitrogator. It's been raining quite a lot over here so I had no chance to fully test it. My first test was great. I just used my old reliable OS CV-12X for this car and the first tank just run dry. I did the tank mod straight away and added a pressure needle as well to the pipe. Had no problems on that area. Anyway, the only problem I got was when I accelerate the car, it tends to swerve left. What do I have to check? Seems I followed everything by the book. I've been searching for tips regarding this problem on the HPI forum but the NTC3 thread is too huge and I still am on page 80. Maybe a quick tip from you or anybody might get me going sooner. Thanks.

[FrankyRizzo]

check your diffs again. After building it you should check them after they set in.

[snoddj]

FrankyRizzo thanks for that. Will check it. Now if the rain would just stop for a day....

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo


Best bet is to replace your fuel lines. Also if you have left fuel in your lines for any period of time I have pulled off the carb and used denatured alcohol to clean it out. There is a product called Nitro Blast that is a fuel additive that works awesome. Provides more lubricant and therefore reducing temps in engines.

Hi guys,

I tried it again when i got home. I found out that the engine is running perfectly fine in idle or in half or full speed until about 10% fuel left in the tank, the engine is rev up little by little and then its rev all the way up when about 5% left (The temp reach 300 degree) engine die at that point. (But there are still some fuel left)

I really don't know what wrong is it? Does anyone know and how do i fix it? Is it going to damage my engine. (The engine is already broken-in.)

[FrankyRizzo]

The AE tank has a bit of a problem when it gets to about quarter left. The pick up is not recessed into a well like the mugen and others. It has a tendancy to lean out towards the bottom. I have a new 7719 tank on order but I still want to do the Mugen retro fit. I heard it eliminates alot of other issues as well. IE pressure fitting, rough idle etc..

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by us_matrix


Hi guys,

I tried it again when i got home. I found out that the engine is running perfectly fine in idle or in half or full speed until about 10% fuel left in the tank, the engine is rev up little by little and then its rev all the way up when about 5% left (The temp reach 300 degree) engine die at that point. (But there are still some fuel left)

I really don't know what wrong is it? Does anyone know and how do i fix it? Is it going to damage my engine. (The engine is already broken-in.)

I just want to clarify that not only the temp went up to 300 degree when it had about 5 - 10% fuel left, the car was also running in full speed.

[Ah10]

Originally posted by us_matrix


I just want to clarify that not only the temp went up to 300 degree when it had about 5 - 10% fuel left, the car was also running in full speed.

your low end needle probably too lean!

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by Ah10


your low end needle probably too lean!

Hi,

I have already richen the low end needle in half turn. But still run in full speed by itself when about 10% fuel left.

[nitrogator]

Are you sure your adjusting the low speed needle and not the idle screw? And are you sure your adjusting the right way, because in your last post you said that you richened the low speed in a half turn? It suppossed to be turned out to richen. Maybe is was just a communication error, but I've heard of stranger things. Good luck.

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by nitrogator
Are you sure your adjusting the low speed needle and not the idle screw? And are you sure your adjusting the right way, because in your last post you said that you richened the low speed in a half turn? It suppossed to be turned out to richen. Maybe is was just a communication error, but I've heard of stranger things. Good luck.


Yes, I was adjusting the low end needle and counter-clockwise about half turn. Should i riched the low end needle again or something else i could check?

[jnegrx]

us_mtrix
the problem is That your running out of fuel. So time the next run after 5 mins check the temp. if it's still 300 then reset the carb. the engine will rev a lot when it isn't getting fuel, try not running out of gas. remember the lubrication comes from the fuel so no fuel= no lubrication= blown engine soon!!! Pit earlier so you have more fuel than 10%. How long does your tank last between fill ups, that can be your problem

[nitroguy2001]

hey guys my NTC3 is comming in tuesday!!!!!!!!! I cant wait

Are there any tips or anything that I should know before I start building it, like anything I need.

Thanks in advance

Brian~

[80mph ntc3]

swing rack bearing kit
&
brake cam bearing kit

[TC3Kamikaze]

A good set of hex drivers will aid in building the kit. The swing rack helps take out some slack, I also replaced the ball cups with RPM ones. I'd say the brake bearings are a personal preference. I really can't tell the difference between them or the bushings. The stock bumper is weak get either a RPM or Trinity big bash.

[rccadude]

I am wondering why my NTC3 is unable to move but o.s. engine is still running. That is weird. My engine is O.S. .12 CV-RX (S) w/10E Rotary Carb. Please help. Thanks a lot.

rccadude

[tOrcHed Lh]

nitroguy,
1. to the tank mod... relocate the pressure fitting on the tank to the lid..
2. buy a rc10 slipper clutch spring to replace the weak servo saver spring: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...1P?Q=1&I=LX2879
3. buy and RPM bumper: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=1&I=LXCRU1&P=7
4. get 4 x 4-40 1/2" screws to replace the 3/8" on the thick parts of diff cases to keep the shock towers from backing out..
(5). or just get this screw kit: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=1&I=LXVP74&P=7
it has the 1/2" screws and about every other screw the car would need except engine mounts and set screws.
(6). the steering rack bearings are a nice upgrade for about 10 bucks... if you install them as you build the kit it will save you lots of time in the long run.. so it's up to you

you're also gonna need to cut the shaft of your fr12 becuase it's a standard and it needs to be a short. so get this cut off nut: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...1P?Q=1&I=LX3382

There's a instructions PDF floating around somewhere on AE's site that tells you exactly how do cut it..

o and dont' forget throttle return spring.

[rccadude]

Well, that links are not working. Invalid. :(

[80mph ntc3]

i would definitely update my screws from the kit. try going to www.fastener-express.com they have a selection of sizes and better quality then the ones you get with the ntc3 kit. only thing each size comes in quantities of 50. Or you can get the complete titanium screw set offered by hardcore racing, and not worry about a screw again hopefully. Its a little pricey at $74.95 for 80 screws, but to me its worth it.

[FrankyRizzo]

I went with the stainless screws. They look trick and the are a tad softer than the alloys. This allows a bit of flex and will bend as opposed to shearing. I also think that the threads are deeper and hold better without stripping as fast.

[nitroguy2001]

Hey thanks for all the help guys!!

I will be unstopable!!
hehe

[ponky_wonky]

hey guys, i'm ordering my V One RR in a few hours, it should in my hands in a few weeks, i'll see how it compares to the NTC3
peace out

[meldridge]

Mugen tank retro fit works very well. I usually have 1/8th tank left over after 5 minutes.

[meldridge]

Well I tried to attach a little 14K picture of the Mugen tank mod through the Browse option below, but it did no take.

Any suggestions Franky?

[FrankyRizzo]

14 K is kind of small. Try a 400x200 shot or so.

also has to be a .jpg not a bitmap

[meldridge]

try again...

[FrankyRizzo]

Looks great! What did you use for stand offs?

[meldridge]

Here is what I did:

I took the AE lid off and used a body reamer to make the holes on the AE tank large enough to accept the larger Mugen hinge bolt. I then centered the Mugen lid on the AE tank with 2 plastic and 2 brass electric motor shims. Here is where it got to be pain.
Inside the Mugen lid, there is a spacer that spins freely around the lid. I had to shave off a bit off of the top side of it so that the AE (orange) round seal would not slide up and down too much. Once I got the correct height, I had to get the correct diameter for the seal. So I began to use a good body masking tape to build up the diameter of the inside piece of the Mugen lid until I got a fit that was a little larger than I needed. I then Epoxy’d the Smaller inside piece to the Mugen lid. Once it dried, I removed a bit of tape until I had a snug enough fit that was acceptable.

At that time, no one had fixes for the tank. I knew a guy that did this and it worked well. But now I think that an easier way is to just buy a Yokomo tank and swap the lids. It is a perfect fit and much less time consuming to do the mod.

Also another thing, if you guys have trouble with the line to the carb coming off the tank regularly, then take one of the small AE orange o-rings and put it on the line that goes to the tanks, then put the line on the tank, then cram the o-ring down around the tank opening. That will secure it and keep it from popping off. Be careful, cause you will tear the little o-rings if you are not careful.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Oh I thought you did a complete retro of the mugen tank not the lid. Does look good like Franky said. I replaced my stock tank and now my troubles went away. I might give the new tank a try once some one gets it.

[meldridge]

I do have a buddy that did retro the Mugen tank to the car, but had to drill out and bevel holes in the chassis for the tank. THen install risers to mount it. It just doesn't looks a clean. But it definitely works.

[ponky_wonky]

hey guys, i hate to say this but i might be selling my NTC3 for a V One RR, i'm a little short on cash right now and i already found a seller, i've just been hearing that the V One RR is way more durable, and i don't like buying spare parts too often so i got the V One RR, sorry!:rolleyes:

[redstarracer]

Originally posted by ponky_wonky
hey guys, i hate to say this but i might be selling my NTC3 for a V One RR, i'm a little short on cash right now and i already found a seller, i've just been hearing that the V One RR is way more durable, and i don't like buying spare parts too often so i got the V One RR, sorry!:rolleyes: you trader.its saposed to be ae for life,support our american company.let the yaps play with there clunkers while we spank the you know out out of there cute little cars.:D

[redstarracer]

ponky im just kidding the v one is an excelent car i have one,but i only use it to practice.i found out that the ntc3 has beter race performance.I HATE HPI.to many bad memories of just about everything breaking.

[redstarracer]

gotta question over here tho.did anyone come out with aluminium bulk heads for the ntc3?oh ya and i just switched body.i was using the stratus cuz i thought that the picture on the box that it would go fast. hah any way im using protoforms volvo s60 and it hooks up beter than the stratus and the 300m.thaught i might want to share that.oh ya and it looks cool to:)

[TC3Kamikaze]

I haven't heard of any one making em. GPM racing might, I haven't checked them out lately though.

[Ngoinggone]

Nitro TC3 Help!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just recently purchased a NTC3 with a 5 cell hump pack. When I tried to install the hump pack, I can not connect it to the switch, which is connected to the reciver. Do I not need the switch, or do I have to buy an connector? Help

My E-mail is Ngoinggone@aol.com

Thank you very much

[Ngoinggone]

Is there any company that makes a mini cooper body that would fit on the NTC3? Also, With the Bolink 40 Ford Pick up fit on the NTC3?

Thanks

-Ngoinggone.

[Ngoinggone]

Also, What type of Airbrushes do you use. I only have $60, and I have an air compressor. What type of paint do you use?

- Ngoinggone

[atm92484_3]

Are you sure that the switch is not designed for drycell holders? If it is, you will either need one for the plug that came with the pack, or you will need to install the appropriate plug on the switch. If the Bolink body is 200mm, there is a 99.9% chance it will fit the car.

[FrankyRizzo]

I just picked up the Proline Crowd Pleaser TC body. This thing is sweet. Great downforce and slick.

Give it a try.

[FrankyRizzo]

Why doesn't the old thread work and why does it keep sending me notices???

[StevePond]

Testing

[StevePond]

testing II

[TC3Kamikaze]

Ngoinggone you'll probably have to do what I did with the pack. I didn't realize I had a two pin plug on the pack. So I swapped it with the three pin plug I had on my dry cell case.
Iwata Revolution CR and Eclipse CS would be the air brushes to check out. Paint wise createx can be bought at a local michaels or hobby lobby.

[FrankyRizzo]

Test 1

[MaxxThrasher]

Is this thing on? :p

[MaxxThrasher]

Got a NTC3 RTR and when you hit the gas it pulls hard to the right.
Has anyone else had this problem?
What might be causing this?
How do I correct this?

[HP7]

Originally posted by MaxxThrasher
Got a NTC3 RTR and when you hit the gas it pulls hard to the right.
Has anyone else had this problem?
What might be causing this?
How do I correct this?

In rc car action there was a story about the kit form of the car. One on the tips was if the car torque steered to the right the diffs were out of ajustment. The front should be a quarter turn out from close and the rear a half turn out from close. This is just a place to start. You may have to adjust your droop if you can, and even the toe. Hope this helps.

[MaxxThrasher]

LOL! No, I'm afraid that doesn't help a dang bit cuz I don't have a clue what the heck you just said. Maybe if you post the issue of RCCA that had the article, that would help.

Anybody else?

[nitrogator]

I just finished getting my NTC3 with O.S. .15 RX tuned and it's a monster. I mildly modified this engine and it has 10 + tanks on it. I went to the 21/27 pinion, 54/48 spur and the acceration looks very much like a 1/8 scale. This engine is really strong and is a vast improvement from my O.S. TR in it before. The TR was borrowed from my RC-10GT, and does an excellent job, but the power this engine puts out is impressive. I will be mixing it up with a MRX-2 with JP modified .21 in a few weeks, so I'll see how it races then, but it seems very quick and out off control at full throttle. I realistically estimate 55-60mph top end and acceleration that resembles the burst of speeds seen in 1/8 onroad. I would like to see the unlimited touring car class gain momentum, because the current crop of touring cars can handle the increase in torque created by these big block engines. I can't imagine any .12 that could compare with the burst of speed and top end punch as this engine. It a must for a NTC3 hop up,. that will rule the roost in most parking lot touring car races.

[TC3Kamikaze]

May issue page 83 under building and setup tips. Go back through your manual. I believe it'll start off on page 6 and end at page 7 about the ball diff adjustment.
Yeah the Stratus 2.1 would come out after I get an older one.:(

[Raydee]

Well I finally started racing my NTC3 in a parking lot track and I am having some traction issues. Any time i let off the throttle my back end wants to get too loose. If I stay on the throttle it is fine. I am running foam tires with 40 in the front and 37 in the rear. Should I change the front springs to a stiffer spring so it doesn't dive so much when i let off the throttle?

What are the springs from softest to stiffest??

[atm92484_3]

Could there be too much drag brake? The NTC3's brakes take very little force to lock the wheels, so slightly too much drag brake might be enough to get the car sideways. Have you check the chassis's tweak?

[FrankyRizzo]

I can't post to it and it still keeps sending notifications to the tune of 20+ a day.

Steve Help!!

[coastal-tony]

Franky
I've had 15 since lunch.
I can't wait for the thread to get back to working, because I had a chance to race with the fabulous Barry Baker yesterday. Man, is he good or what?

[FrankyRizzo]

I got to watch him at the Speedline race here in Vegas. Nice guy. I still think that Josh Cyrul is nicer. Barry is the sh*t for speed.

[Mr.Throttle]

I myself just finished my new NTC3!!!
i am very happy with the car and i can't wait till i get good enough to race at a track lol.
i have a little favor to ask..... if any one has some tips as far as set up and driving PLEASE let my know ok.
i am a newbe to the onraod world and am quite lost.lol:confused:
hope to hear from you guys thanx.
happy trails
sincerly
alfred caesar

[FrankyRizzo]

Smooth track high traction
Front:
shocks 60 wt
#3 piston
springs yellow
sway bar blade type 60 degrees
2 degrees neg camber
0 degrees toe
tires 45 shore 26mm
9 degree caster
4mm droop
5.5mm ride heigth

Rear
shocks 40 wt
#3 piston
springs red
sway bar wire type
3 degrees neg camber
2 degrees to in
tires 40 shore 30mm
4mm droop
5.5mm ride heigth

Both diffs set up like manual

Lightweight clutch bell
lightweight 2 speed
lightweight first speed housing

That should get you started.

[jnegrx]

Raydee the spring rates in pouds are :

green 12.0
silver 14.5
blue 17.0
gold 19.5
red 22.0
copper 25.0
purple 30
yellow 35.0
white 40.0

[snoddj]

Hi guys. I've got a simple question. Has anybody tried using different wheel nuts on there NTC3 aside from those that come with the kit? It's quite hard tightening these nuts on certain wheels and they loosen up after a while. I've tried Kyoshos but they don't seem to fit. I wonder if HPI nuts would. Help would be appreciated. Thanks.:)

[coastal-tony]

I think ATM is correct, check your brake linkage adjustment.
As for springs, the manual suggests yellow front/red rear (foam). I was at a race this last weekend, and Bary Baker had copper springs on front & rear. He had 40 shore front & rear foams on.

[MaxxThrasher]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
May issue page 83 under building and setup tips. Go back through your manual. I believe it'll start off on page 6 and end at page 7 about the ball diff adjustment.
Yeah the Stratus 2.1 would come out after I get an older one.:(

Thank you very much, that did the trick! :cool:

[TC3Kamikaze]

snoddj I think trinity has low profile nuts for the TC3 that will work. I believe AE has some as well. Here's the part # for the Team Trinity wheel nuts TK3076.

[Temjin006]

I just got my Novarossi RS12 S5 race engine for my tc3. The engine was so easy to break in. Now my tc3 is flying. I can go faster then all my friends' mtx2 with mt12 engines. The only car that can out run me is a tc3 with a JP modified mt12. Even though he is faster than me, he has a hard time starting up his car.

[Temjin006]

Have anyone here use the factory team carbon upgrades? I would like to know if it is much stronger compare to the stock plastic pieces. I already broke my stock front gear box and shock tower.

Also, did anyone compare the factory team one way diff to the yokomo tc3 one way diff? which is better?

[snoddj]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
snoddj I think trinity has low profile nuts for the TC3 that will work. I believe AE has some as well. Here's the part # for the Team Trinity wheel nuts TK3076.


TC3Kamikaze, thanks for that. I'll check it out and might have to order that because shops here don't carry any Trinity stuff. I'm glad I could get help through this forum as I have nobody to help me out here since no one seems to have an NTC3 and all are V1-Rs.:(

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Temjin006
Also, did anyone compare the factory team one way diff to the yokomo tc3 one way diff? which is better?

Until AE releases the rumored replacement one-way, the Yoke is your best bet. People have been blowing the bearings apart on the AE ones.

[jnegrx]

AE does have low profile nuts. I don't remember the # but i think they were for the GT.

[snoddj]

Originally posted by jnegrx
AE does have low profile nuts. I don't remember the # but i think they were for the GT.

jnegrx, when you say low profile does that mean the wheel nut is smaller? if so, a different tool should be used to tighten them right? this low profile nuts, do they look similar to the kyosho ones but different thread? wished kyosho nuts fit with ae. they're small and the metal tool is much better.:(

[TC3Kamikaze]

Low profile would be shorter then the originals. You may want to try a hardware store. They have an assortment of nuts and screws. Cheaper and less time consuming than ordering them.

[snoddj]

TC3Kamikaze, thank you very much for that. Just ran my car this morning and guess what, a wheel came off again. Embarrassing!Well I'm off to the shop and try better nuts. Thanks for the suggestion.

[jnegrx]

When i say low profile i mean they have less thread area and that permits the plastic lock part get a better hold. You use the same tool. If you don't find them just put the nuts in reverse so the plastic goes first that way the tires would be locked no matter what nuts you are using. I will look for the part # and post it.

[snoddj]

jnegrx, i appreciate the help. also, i may do what you suggested, reverse the screw. so far i'm having fun with the car. the car's got great speed though i'm running just a .12 cvx. would be interesting if i got a much powerful engine. thanks guys for all the help.:)

[Matlock]

Hey guys. I am going to buy a brand new NTC3 next spring(Racing season is about over) and wanted to know if thier is anything I should know before getting my kit? I am going to set it up for foams (Already have some ellegi foams).

Here is what it will be having:

Nitro TC3 Non Pull Rear Exhaust
Futaba 3PDF
RB Concepts X12 or Novarossi RS12 S3(I know that Novarossi makes engines for RB, but would these two be the same?)
Associated Starterbox(Unless any of you know of a better one that works well with the NTC3?)


Thanks guys

[atm92484_3]

That sounds pretty good, but I'd reccomend getting a Trinity 1/8 scale onroad battery pack to power the 3PDF's receiver. You might want to get a few extra parts and maybe a graphite upperdeck also and some GS exhaust gaskets.

[Matlock]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
That sounds pretty good, but I'd reccomend getting a Trinity 1/8 scale onroad battery pack to power the 3PDF's receiver. You might want to get a few extra parts and maybe a graphite upperdeck also and some GS exhaust gaskets.


OK. I'll see about that battery pack and upperdeck. Oh, I have a couple extra GS racing couplers, too.


Thanks

[jnegrx]

snoddj:
I found the item # for the lock nuts but the # is for silver or natural colored nuts but they will work anyway only the color is not blue. They are part # 3438 they come in a pack of 3 so buy atleast 2 packs. AE's suggested price is $1.50.
You can tell they are the ones because the plastic lock of the nuts is yellow and the others are blue.

[snoddj]

Originally posted by jnegrx
snoddj:
I found the item # for the lock nuts but the # is for silver or natural colored nuts but they will work anyway only the color is not blue. They are part # 3438 they come in a pack of 3 so buy atleast 2 packs. AE's suggested price is $1.50.
You can tell they are the ones because the plastic lock of the nuts is yellow and the others are blue.

jnegrx
Great! I really appreciate the hassle you had to go through just to find these. Thanks very much. For the moment, I'm just using a bit of threadlock and trimmed a bit of the area around the nut to accomodate the tool. Works quite well. But I'll look into grabbing a few of those nuts. Thanks again mate.:)

[jnegrx]

I have little dilema on my hands, I want a new engine for the NTC3. I've narrowed my search on these two engines and need your opinions.

Rossi Black Pixi .12 1.8 hp at 39,000 rpm or

Ofna/Picco 7 port .12 1.4 hp at 36,000 rpm.

I already have a Picco .12 and OS TR but i need more power. I want to know if someone has used the Rossi or at least heard some thing about it. The picco is not ROAR legal but the Rossi is. the Picco (not 7 port) that i already own is ROAR legal so it doesn't matter if it's ROAR legal or not. I know most of you use an OS TR . I'm going to a very big race so i need the extra power. Almost everyone here are using the 7 port picco. The Rossi isn't out that long so any help would be welcome.

[atm92484_3]

I would probably take the Novarossi due to their racing heritage, however I wouldn't buy an engine due to claimed ratings. Novarossis are hot engines, don't get me wrong on that, but I seriously cannot see that engine producing 1.8 hp under racing conditions, in the real world (1.4 is a little more reasonable though for the Ofna, but it still may be a little high). Try shopping around and seeing what each one run price-wise.