Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v1.0

[jeepinator]

Hey, someone had to start it !

I will prolly be getting one when they are released in 3 years :p ... Oh, wait, that was the electric TC3 that took that long ... hehe just joking around.

BTW, do you like how I titled this a thread (because that is what it is) ?

Cool, eh ?

OK, so post away and submit your desires.

[ttweedle]

I want one of these too
:D

[ 09-05-2001: Message edited by: travis tweedle ]

[atm92484]

Once they release a Factory Team version I know I'm getting one. Ahh FT NTC3 with a 12 TR....life is good. :)

[Bishop]

I'll be happy with just the team version, I don't think I could wait long enough to see the factory team version released.

Has anyone else noticed that in the pics that the lower chasse is actually wider on one side than the other? I wounder how that is going to go, allthough I supose it is ballanced by the pipe.

[jeepinator]

I wonder if it will set any land speed records ? Maybe the nitro land speed record ?
(Seeing how nitro's can't seem to go as fast) :p

[maxxxracer]

with some custom gears from RRP and A custom chassis from wolfpack, steve could make it go faster than the rs4 probaly.

[atm92484]

Just slap a .21 on there and get some insane gear ratios going. :p

[maxxxracer]

hmmm. how much will it cost?

[maxxxracer]

they just redid the suspension and the radion tray.

[atm92484]

Ya, thats about the entire car. Theres also a different steering and fuel tank on the newest prototype.

[ 09-09-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[Bishop]

hmm, prity much the same, it looks like a very early prototype.

They must have realised that the electric suspension would not hold up very well under the torture and weight of a nitro car... :D

[Leinzey]

...drooling. I REALLY want one of these, I can't wait until it comes out.

[jeepinator]

atm92484, great post !

Those are cool pics

[atm92484]

Thanks. Isn't evolution good? :D Also if you put those pics side by side with more recent pics you'll be able to see some other things that are different. Actually the only things that appear to be carried over from that prototype to the most recent one are the gearboxes, center drive shaft, and CVDs.

BTW Tower now has the Nitro TC3 listed. Nitro TC3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBCG2&P=0) $290 isn't too bad but once its released I think we'll be seeing the Team go for around $250.

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: atm92484 ]

[atm92484_3]

Hey guys. My LHS is reserving a NTC3 for me straight from Horizon. Hopefully I'll have it within the next 4 weeks. Now I just have to wait for that 12 TR to be released.

From what my LHS said, it sounds like the distributors are expecting for a high demand but a low supply on this car. They (Horizon) told my LHS to order the number of this car they wanted now since it would be hard to find as the holiday season approaches.

[atm92484_3]

AE just posted the actual page on their website for the NTC3. Its not the preview page either: its the one they have for every car. I like the threaded shocks and aluminium center shaft.

http://www.rc10.com/homepage/ntc3links.htm

[cucountry]

Im going to buy one next month when i get my bonus check from work. I really dont like the rear exhaust pipe though and right now they only offer a side exhaust for a pull start and i want a non pull start. Im hoping that the team version is available by then because i will have about 1000$ to get my car and everything else i need to get it going. I was thinking about getting a V-one R or serpent impulse but i really love the shaft drive and the diffrentials that associated uses. My buddies are always having to replace their belts, sometimes in between races and with the NTC3 i shouldnt have any of those problems. I just hope that they include threaded aluminum shocks with the team version and not the plastic ones that come with the standard version. I hope one of you guys gets one soon so i can hear how it handles before i take the plunge but if its anything like the TC3 it should be a winner right out of the box.

[atm92484_3]

On the AE site they said that the Team NTC3 will include aluminum shocks, so thats a good thing.

I'm assuming right now that the NTC3 will take a short and a SG style crank. Has anyone else heard other wise?

[cucountry]

Well i was just looking at the kit on the associated website and the standard version which is out now only has VCS shocks on it. What is really cool on their website is that on the main page it says that the Nitro TC3 has its first win already. I guess they entered one in the Castle Classic in the .12 open class and took first place. There is a link to a picture of the winning car and driver. That car looks like probably a team version as it has the aluminum shocks and the blue header and pipe instead of the plain pipe on the standard version.

[cucountry]

Oh, im assuming by the looks of the large clutch and 2 speed that it will probably be a long shaft but i cant tell if its a pilot or SG. But i could be wrong.

[TUCRACEMAN]

Yeah, so I've been waiting for this car for about a year. Any clues on when it's going to be released?
~Dave

[DoggmanQ]

The Car has shipped out as of 12-14-01 and this gives us something more to talk about because we only waited over a year for it. If it doesn't live up to what they have been building it up to be, you best believe Associated will lose alot of loyal customers. How does everyone else feel about this highly anticipated car?

[atm92484_3]

I think this will be an excellent car. They've done more than their share of homework on this one.

I'm just hoping my LHS is able to get one through Horizon since they told the guy at Horizon they needed one for a customer nearly 3 months ago.

[atm92484_3]

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/002/hb/PC/p0/ig56108.jpg

You gotta love that status. :D

[Volumex]

Just picked my Nitro TC3 at my LHS.
Very small box, but everything is in there and the instructions are clear.
I 'll take my time to build this kit, but I think this car will be awesome in performance.
There is also a new asphalt track being built locally (Hot Rod Hobbies, Santa Clarita, Ca). It will be ready by the end of January.
:cool:

[atm92484_3]

So does anyone have any idea when Horizon will have this car in stock?

[Volumex]

Hobby People, has them in stock.

[TweakRacer]

Yup, just went to the Escondido store to check it out. Way too cool! The Factory Team mods list is quite long too. Glad that they will offer a NTC3 specific front one-way (not the weak electric version) and a solid axle (beginner's could use it in the front, while expert's could use it in the rear with the one-way setup of course).

Anyone hear anything about when a Factory Team is coming out?
Also, does anyone know Barry's set-up (either for Castle Hobbies, Crystal Park, or Hobbytown-San Marcos)?

[atm92484_3]

I can see the Factory Team edition coming out in the Summer of 2002. It'll probably be about $340ish though. Not bad considering what you get.

[atm92484_3]

Well guys it finally came. Here are some pics.

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/036/s0/3W/g9/sf74369.jpg

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/036/r0/tn/JW/sf28768.jpg

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/014/al/Oo/Ng/oh43956.jpg

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/039/w8/D4/v1/oc28502.jpg

<hr>

The engine is a 12 TR and I'm going to be getting a 3 PDF and some better servos soon. I'll get some better pics later.

[Volumex]

ATM, those are really detailed pictures.
I'm about halfway to finish my tc3, but tonight I went to buy an engine.
I was supposed to buy a Picco, but the guy at the LHS suggested me the same one you have, the OS .12 TR.
I've been happy with my past O.s. engines (tuneability and reliability) and the guy told me that it's a much better unit than the Picco.
I know nothing of this engine. Did I pick a good one?
Any info is appreciated, since I can't find anything (review, test on the TR) on the past issues of Nitro Mag.
Tnx

[atm92484_3]

You made an excellent choice. I'm a firm believer in the CV-R and TR series from O.S. RCCA got .88 bhp from a 12 CV-R that wasn't 100% broken in (only had 1/3 of a gallon through it). Since that wasn't fully broken in and got specs like that, I think that it would hit 1 bhp fully broken in and the 12 TR will also hit (if not come very close to) their claimed spec of 1.1 bhp.

I can't wait to start breaking it in but I expect for its break-in to be uneventful.

[Volumex]

That's great!
Since you are several hours ahead of me (and probably most of us new TC3 owners) with the building process (well, you are basically done ;) ), please feel free to post here the process and details that will take you from braking-in this specific engine to the first test of the car and so on.
Thanks a lot.

[atm92484_3]

Looks like my break-in had a little snow delay. :( It snowed last night and everything is all wet and salty and I don't want to risk driving the car. Oh well maybe over the weekend.

[atm92484_3]

ttt

I know there are more NTC3 guys here.

[RichieRich]

My brother has one. Does that count? :)

[Fosuco107]

Hey i am almost done building my nitro tc3 but im waiting on my radio and engine to come in ill posts pics when it all comes in. Right now im putting an hpi .15 and futaba fm but a m8 radio and .12 fantom are all on its way.

[TweakRacer]

Sup atm92484!!!

Hey guys, there is some good tips in the HPI Forum under the NTC3 thread. Just a thought! :D

[atm92484_3]

Its weird, it seems like all the NTC3 drivers are over on that board as opposed to this one. Maybe NRS4 drivers are swapping cars and staying at their board. :confused:

[TUCRACEMAN]

Mines

[StevePond]

I would like to get some feedback from NTC3 owners. I just finished the test on the car and I like the way it drives, but I'd like to hear how others are doing with the car.

BTW - Mine is a rear exhaust kit fitted with an OS .12TR engine.

[nitroguy2001]

hey guys how durable is the car. I am considering getting one.

[nitrothugg]

i cant find one. are some available to you if you do decide to get one?

[StevePond]

Mine's been durable so far, but I'm not in the habit of hitting the boards (well, not too much anyway) so I can't really say how well it takes a hard impact. It's got a fairly beefy bumper that looks like it's able to take a hard shot.

The only thing I've noticed so far is the plastic nuts for the steering bellcranks have loosened up slightly. I'm going to replace them with a thin locking nut and a shim. It appears they loosened because the bellcrank can rub the plastic nut that holds them in place. Othe than than, nothing to report yet.

[atm92484_3]

I really, really, really want to drive my car. :( Hopefully the weather man is right and it will warm up this weekend.

Steve, I'm glad to hear the car is holding up. If I do ever get to drive it (:mad: ), I'll be sure to fill you in with my $.02. What issue with that review be in btw?

<hr>
<marquee><font color="red">Horizon has the nps, rear exhaust NTC3 in stock for $299 for any of you guys who are interested.</font></marquee>

[TUCRACEMAN]

I guess that the O.S. .12 TR is the weapon of choice for NTC3 owners. I love my NTC3. I finally got it tuned when my receiver decided to wigg out on me and destroys my car. Guess not even a foam bumper can protect a car going full throttle into a building.
:(
I need to cry again...
~Dave

[nitroguy2001]

hey steve how do you think the nitro tc3 will hold up on the track against a mugen or trinity, both performance wise and durablity wise. Just curious becuse I am going between those 3 cars.
thanks
Brian

[Skateboarder]

Hey, does anybody know if/when a rtr nitro tc3 will come out. I know its better to build an rc then get it rtr but Im just looking for a nice rtr touring car to bash around with, so far the ofna ob4rtr is at the top because is comes with tons of good things but Im worried about the belts.
Im looking to spend aroung 300 to 350 and would love if a rtr ntc3 would come out.
Anyway thanks

[atm92484_3]

I believe AE mentioned a NTC3 RTR coming out eventually. Considering the Team TC3s aren't up to full production yet, I think it will still be a few months before we see a NTC3 RTR though.

[Skateboarder]

Thanks man, Thats cool because Im only going to be getting a tc after winter so I have time to see what new cars comes out by then and then make a decision.
Thanks again

[ron65034]

hey this is my nitro TC3 http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=ron65034&album_id=48298&image_id=1&courtesy=1

[StevePond]

Is there anyone that owns one of these that can offer some feedback? I'm still interested in other's opinions after having run the car.

[atm92484_3]

Heres a pic of the F360 body I have for my NTC3. I'm painting a blue one since I messed this out up pretty bad. I still have to cut the smoke stacks and get some air holes in the body.

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v4/4/64/83/29346483WIvADvkDWv_ph.jpg

...now if I could just brave the cold I'd be able to drive this car

[StevePond]

There has to be more people out there with this car. Come on guys! :D

[atm92484_3]

Hey Steve...you have some authority. Any chance of getting some warm weather sent to PA? :confused: I'll give you my feedback on the car. :)

[gtwolfpack]

I am seriously thinking about getting a NTC3, but, I am bit concerned if the square hole in the chassis right between the fule tank and the rear of the engine..Anyone running NTC3, does that hole put in their to accomodate pull start engine compromise the rigidity of the chassis or there is nothing to worry? I am asking for your input and thanx in advance!!!

[fastharry]

My freind has completed his Ntc3,and I'm halfway thru mine(I'm taking my time as to savor the experiance,no lie,it's that nice).....I should also tell you I own 2 Impulse's,both with Wolfpack chassis and full Serpent cross braces,plus 3 racer2's with wolfpack and HPI super chassis...........The tc3 feels stiffer and more solid than all of them......and when you hold the kit in your hand as your assembleing it,you don't want to let go.....I also own a Veteq,and this car got priority halfway thru putting that car together.......How's that for an endoresement??And if it runs halfway as good as it looks,one of those Impulse's will be for sale,as well as 2 of the racer2's.........Hey Steve Pond,how about doung a pictorial on amy RC collection?It's at 60 cars and counting???

[TUCRACEMAN]

Yeah Steve. Like ATM said, you have some authority. Could you make Tower send me some parts faster? Would it be faster if I were to order from Associated directly?
~Dave
EDIT: Just kidding. I just checked my order at tower and it is already on it's way.

[StevePond]

Fastharry - We'll feature your collection of crack pipes as a sidebar. :D :D You have WAY too many cars. We'll have to meet at Wolfgang's shop sometime.

GT - the chassis is very solid. No need to worry about that hole. It's actually a fairly stout chassis plate. Heavier than most other's chassis plates, and it's channeled which adds a great deal more strength than just thicker material.

I've actually learned something from the guys at Associated since I've done the test. Apparently some of the people packing the components for the kits selected the wrong size bushings for the steering bellcranks in some of the kits. The center link in the kits that have the wrong size bushings will hit the drive cup because the bushings are too tall. They tell me if you can see the bushing hanging out of the bottom of the bellcrank while looking horizontally, you have the wrong bushings. The proper size bushings should seat all the way into the bellcranks and be flush on the bottom. Just figured I'd pass that along if your center link is hitting the front drive cup.

[fastharry]

Steve,no crack pipes here...thats how I afford this "addicting" hobby..........heres the current list...It changes from time to time depending what I'm building,but it's pretty current..........BTW,what do you think of the tc3 nitro....will it set the bar for the current 'pro" car standard????BTW,if you doubt my sincerity or enthusiasm for this hobby(or think I'm full of BS),talk to your pal Jerry Conley at Wildcat...................Ask him if he know's Fastharry................


1. RC-10GT CV-R Factory team
2. RC-10DS (Nitro)
3. TC3 NITRO(RB RE Turbo)
4. 3 HPI Racer2's(RB Turbo’s and CV-R)
5. Nitro Mini
6. MT Racer
7. MT
8. RUSH
9. Super Nitro RS4(Nova Rossi,Solid rear,one way
10. Rally
11. HPI micro Corvette(7.2v,Orion Mod motor)
12. Kyosho GP 10
13. Kyosho MKII
14. Nitro Blizzard
15. Nitro Crusher
16. Nitro Wheelie car(Two)
17. Mooneyes Street Van
18. Serpent Impulse (RB 5 port RE)2 sp
19. Serpent Impulse 1 sp(RB 5 port)
20. TMAXX (Way modified)
21. Bud's fun wons
22. Mini-Z
23. Tamiya P34 Tyrell (kit)
24. X331 attack vehicle(kit)
25. Sand Scorcher(mint)
26. Monster Beetle(Mint,all done with the hottest 80’s options)
27. Newest addition, Kyosho Nitro Quad
28. and now for the newest additions……………..
29. HPI mini rs4
30. mini Pro rs4(Sealed in box,Mini Cooper)
31. mini Pro rs4(Sealed in Box,Miata)
32. Vector VETEQ(RODY C-4)
33. Kyosho Corolla Landmax
34. 1.And,straight from EBAY,1 Kyosho Go-Kart,mint never run!
35. 1 Kyosho Surfer (Hang ten dude)
36. Kyosho Wave runner
37. AND,the brand new car,a Kyosho F-10series Toyota TS-020(the big car,Super size)
38. X-Ray…(Believe the hype,No need to add money)




Cool,right????…..here are some kits I’m collecting for a rainy day

2 tamiya piaa porche’s(way limited edition)
2 tamiya piaa NSX’s(way limited edition)
and 1 tamiya piaa Honda Accord

39. Tamiya TA-02 Special racing Chassis(Limited,sealed,way out of production)
40. Kyosho Williams Yamaha FI EP(out of production)
41. Kyosho Pure Ten Spyder Daytona Coupe (Nitro Nostalgic)
42. Kyosgo Pure Ten MG-B(Electric Nostalgic)
43. Kyosho Formula 1 Gas(discontinued,Proto chassis)
44. 3 HPI Formula 1’s……Discontinued…will build one to race,one for display
45. Tamiya Alfa Romeo TL-01(discontinued)
46. tamiya audi r8r
47. Tamiya toyata ts1020
48. brand new,never run Tamiya Road wizard(10 years old)
49. tamiya Williams Jordan(10 years old,in box)
50. Tamiya VW,old Beetle
51. tamiya Ferrari 310 f1
52. Tamiya Subaru (German rally edition,TB-01)
53. Tamiya Alpine rally car(M-02)
54. Tamiya lancia rally(the new hard Body one)
55. Tamiya nismo GT-R
56. Two(2)tamiya “Metallic Special” tractors(you know,the King Haulers)
57. Tamiya Striker(new in box,straight from Hong Kong,real old car)
58. Tamiya Peugot rally FF
59. Tamiya Newman Porsche 1/12 scale,about 17 years old(assembled,never run)
60. Tamiya Porsche(M-02)
61. Tamiya Miata(eunos)
62. 3 futaba Super PCM’s,5 magnum Jr’s
63. 5 starter boxes
64. all set-up boards and blocks and gauges(Hudy)
65. Tamiya Mercedes Pro-mark(ta-02 chassis)
66. tamiya Mustang cobra(the red,white and blue one)
Now Herman,I ask you,Is that a collection of cars,or is that a collection of cars?
Wildcat Fuels,Baby!!!!!!!!!!
AND,I’m buying a Nitro tc3 for this years racing,along with my Impulse’s,since HPI refuse’s to believe that the racer2 needs updating………………….

[atm92484_3]

Fastharry, that is a sweet collection.

[nitrothugg]

just got my kit today!!!!!!! i have not opened it yet but i was wondering what type of screws are the kit. are they phllips or are they socket heads?

[gtwolfpack]

Thanks for your answer, Harry & Steve..I am one step closer to buying NTC3. Does NTC3 accpet any touring car wheels other than just Proline-made American standard wheels? It it doesn't what mod shoud I do to make it compatible with any wheels? I really appreciate your answers..:D

[StevePond]

It should fit just about any wheel. The only issue may be the width of foam tires. I think it will take up to a 30mm rear tire. A 32mm might make the car too wide.

Harry, I believe you 100-percent. You and I are very much alike and we both have a short circuit somewhere that keeps up going. I'm personally hovering around 100 cars; many of which I bought from hobby shops and on ebay. :D

[fastharry]

I just bolted on the wheels to-nite....Happily,my collection(about 30 complete sets of HPI R series with every insert) on my Impulse wheels fits fine....So do the HPI wheels...........BTW,If your going to build ANY Associated kit a good set of Allen drivers is a must.....the car uses buttonheads(95%)and the rest socket heads....and yes,I own 2 complete sets of MIP's and a complete set of HUDY wrenches..............BTW,this has to be the most fun I've had in a long time putting a kit together.....And the rear exhaust(hooked up to a RB Turbo),looks better than I thought..........Hey Steve P,whats your initial impressions,Pro car or not??.........Also,when will Car Action have a test??(BTW,I was going through my collection od late 80's early 90"s car actions...Amazing what they use to race just 10 years ago)

[TUCRACEMAN]

"I collect Canadian quarters...i got like six of them."
-Duce Bigalow


fastharry...Lot's of cool cars, but it's missing a Kyosho Pro-X. Then again, I've never met a person who atcually has one. Wait...don't you Steve?

~Dave

[ron65034]

hey
I raced my nitro tc3 for the first time and i finished ok. I got second out of 7 but im racing against all hpi rtr heavly moded (i race oval). So im not as happy as i would have been as if i got first. The car held up alot better than the hpi's. I hit the wall once or twice and nothing broke. Every body else just nicked the wall and would be replaceing arms or steering hubs. Also my car was at stock setup so it didnt take the turns that well. I let a couple of other people drive it that race in higher classes than me and they said it handled surpriseingly well and a few said there getting one soon.


Ron65034

[nitrothugg]

what engine did you put in it?

[Skateboarder]

Hey, does anybody(Steve) know about how much the rtr nitro tc3 will be. After thinking for a while I realised that I need shaft drive so my only choise of cars(300$$ range) is the new hpi rtr-3 since my closest lhs only stocks parts for ae hpi and traxxas.
The thing is that the new hpi will not be as hoped up as some of the other cars I can get. but it will be the cheapestto buy and the easiest to get parts for. So Im hopping that the rtr nitro tc3 will be nice and not too expensive.
Thanks

[Jason4lif]

Hey guys,
I recently bought a ntc3, but i bought the one thats for rear exhaust engines because it was the only one left. I ordered a side-exhaust manifold that should be coming in shortly, but I was just wondering if I can buy any tuned pipe for it? Please help.

Also, i dont need new engine mounts, right?

[StevePond]

Run the car with a rear exhaust engine. I run mine with the new OS .12 TR and that thing is very powerful. I like the engine and I like the exhaust system designed for the rear exhaust engines. Unless you have your heart set on a pull-start engine, I'd stick with what you have.

[Jason4lif]

thats the thing steve, i recently got a fantom .12 side exhaust motor. i just wanted to know what parts i would need to swap from to use it on my rear exhaust kit tc3.

[StevePond]

Ahhhh, that explains. OK, you need to get a side-exhaust header, and a tuned pipe. the engine mounts still work fine as does the flywheel and clutch.

I would suggest offering to trade with someone who couldn't get the rear exhaust kit. I understand those sold out very quickly nationally because all the racers want to run the rear exhaust engines. I'm sure you could find someone who's interested in swapping.

[Jason4lif]

ok,thanks steve!

[nitrothugg]

just got through completing my kit! but man, the pipe does not have a nipple. it says to just stuff the line in there. is this effective? or should i be shopping for a nipple? <<===that last sentence is cracking me up!

[StevePond]

You should always be looking for nipples :D ... as far as the pipe goes, don't worry about it. I too would prefer a nice pressure fitting because it just looks better. There's no real risk of the fuel line coming out of the pipe, it just looks pretty lame to have the fuel line stuffed into a hole in the pipe. I tried talking them into making the Factory Team pipe without the hole so I could install a nice fitting, ot maybe thread the hole for a fitting. I'd gladly pay five bucks more for the Factory Team pipe if if were to include a nice 90-degree fitting.

[fastharry]

hi steve,good evening....I've been reading on alot of other forums about the tc3's major push,and the problems racers are having to get rid of it....I don't want you to give to much away as I know you have a test coming up,but how about a word on this.....and how you think it compares to the Impulse(which you guys loved) or other pro cars...before I start mine,I'd like an honest opinion....

[StevePond]

Harry - quite frankly, I don't see any push at all. It's all in the set-up. I have the front diff set without and drag, and the rear fairly tight running 30mm foams in the rear and 26mm in the front. some racers might be running into problems pushing because they're getting too much brake and the front wheels are locking up, which certainly creates a pushing problem, but mine handles fine.

[fastharry]

Steve,thanks for the quick reply......When will car action have a test on this car,and do you think it's(handling) is on par with the reflex......If you want to wait for the test,I'll understand.......Also,will you be testing it with rubber tires also??............BTW,I thought the build quality was great,and if you want to see some serious slop free steering,add the associated swing rack bearing kit....I ordered from assoc.(along with teh brake kit)...quite the difference.............

[atm92484_3]

Harry, so the 2 bearing kits were worth it?

Also, has anyone tried the graphite upper deck or the front one way (not sure if they're available yet)? If so how are they?

[StevePond]

Harry - I'm confident it will meet or exceed the performance of other current top-of-the-line competition cars. Much like 1/8 on-road, once you get to that level, it all becomes the driver. I didn't test it with rubber tires only because these cars are getting so fast and powerful, that it's almost silly to slap on a set of 26mm rubber. I installed a set of S3 Pro-Line V-Rage tires for a little bashing and the car was on marbles and the tires lasted about five minutes. Wear was right through the tread. Granted, if you set it up properly for rubber tires, sure it's going to work better, but it's just harder getting bite with the rubber tires.

As a side note, I'm extremely impressed with the OS .12 TR engine. Very strong out of the hole and still good top-end. Very MT-12 ish.

[rc_king1]

I can't seem to find any numbers on this. Can someone please help me? Thanks.

[fastharry]

atm,the bearings were well worth it.......esp. the steering.....there's absolutely no up and down travel in the servo saver arm..........I've compared it to a non bearing steering,just so you know..........

[atm92484_3]

Thanks harry. I think those bearing sets along with some shims and titanium turnbuckles will probably be my first and only hop-ups on the car (other than some gearing stuff and maybe a one way and solid rear axle).

[Skateboarder]

Hey. so does anyboday have an idea on how much the rtr nitro tc3 will be. If its like 300$ then Ill be getting one if not then Ill be getting a hpi rtr-3.
Thanks

[atm92484_3]

For the RTR 3, AE will probably price it between 300 and 350, but it will probably have the AE engine (with an SG crank), a single speed, unthreaded aluminum shocks (I doubt they would go as low as including the plastic shocks), the Hitec Lynx AM radio, and some other stuff to lower the cost.

Just my guess.

[Jason4lif]

Hey guys, i was just putting together my rear diff and i realize i lost a carbide diff ball. i was even putting my car together on a tray! well i just wanted to know, can i run my car on 11 or do i have to buy another one.

[atm92484_3]

You need all 12 or else it might not be balanced. Plus I've heard of people running other Stealth Diffs with 11 and all the diffs did was slip. Just replace it before you mess something up.

[nitrothugg]

well i'm done putting mine together but i haven't had the chance to run it because of the snow. overall i really love the kit so far but there are a few things i wished they would have did differently or maybe have a hop up for in the future. for instance, the battery compartment is going to be a pain down the road because you (i know i have to) have to damn near disassemble it to change batteries. maybe some company can make a tray that has a pop up lid like the radio box for it.

[fastharry]

What are you running that you have to change batterys?.......

[nitrothugg]

huh?

the rx batteries. i like to spend a few hours at the track and lots during good weather where i take a few extra rx batteries along. all the ones i have are 6 cells 1100mah.

[atm92484_3]

Nitrothugg, it takes 6 screws and the radio tray it out. IMO it isn't that hard and its much more secure than a quick release plate. I replaced the button head screws on the radio tray with socket head screws (easier to remove and less likely to strip).

[DoggmanQ]

I'm looking for opinions on which would be a good pullstart engine to put in my ntc3.

Thanxs in advance

[atm92484_3]

I'd personally reccomend a 12 CV-RX (S). Its easy to tune and powerful. The only down side is if you want the slide carb version, you'll have to deal with cutting the crankshaft and unfortunately AE doesn't include the cut off nut in the Nitro TC3 kits like they did with the GT and Nitro DS.

[StevePond]

Nitrothug has a point - there's no way to pull off a quick receiver pack change if you need a fresh pack. Most situations wouldn't call for replacement of the pack, but I'd hate to find out the pack didn't take a full charge in the middle of a 1 hour main, knowing it's going to take a few minutes to get a new one installed.

ATM - I do believe the pilot shaft is also included in the kit. It should come with the flywheel nut for the SG crank installations, but it should also include the pilot shaft for standard (short) crank installation. I'll double check.

[rcnutt]

I put a fantom fr12 pull with a rotary carb in mine .this engine screams.I would have perfered a slide carb , but my LHS did not have one in stock and you know how that waiting thing is. the OS is a great engine, but I went for the lower price and I don't think performance has been sacraficed.I was hanging with the new OS 12tr all weekend.

[Jason4lif]

hey guys,
this is my first nitro r/c car and im having so much trouble starting it. does any1 know a site or can someone tell me all the steps to starting a nitro car. i would really appreciate it.

[StevePond]

http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/index.asp

http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/get_enginestart.asp

If you still don't get it started after checking out the articles, post a thread in the nitro section and I'll see if I can help you through it.

[Bishop]

The Nitro TC3 has finaly hit Australia, but the olny price I could find for it so far was $854.95!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now that is in Australian dollars, but that is still like $440 US!

It's just so far out of my price range that it's not funny, no ones going to buy it at that price, it's bad enough that so many people I've talked to here think that shaft drive is just for parking lot bashers, and not real race cars.

In the mean time, Kyosho is selling it's ring off here, mostly because it sells here at a great price, even less than you can get it for in the US.

[nitrothugg]

today the weather was nice enough for me to run my NTC3. i took it to the tennis courts at the park, there are 4 courts side by side there. i thought that would be enough space but it wasn't! this car is so fast! i dont think i ever peaked in second gear because i wouldhave to power slide to a stop. which led to my first big crash in which i broke the screw holes in the top half of the rear transmission case. i guess i can use CA glue as a quick fix until i get a new one. oh well. anyway, i think i'm falling in love with my car!

[nitrothugg]

well tried running it after using CA glue to patch up the screw holes and like i thought it didn't hold up for too long....i'm off to get the new part now.

[atm92484_3]

I drove my Nitro TC3 for the first time yesterday. My Valentine's Day sucked, but I'm in LOVE. :D

[stormperson]

people who have had them and raced them for a little while, what hop ups would you recommend? (like do the alum cvds hold up to the power of a os tr or a mt12?)

also any building tips?

i am ordering my car in the next week or two, to get ready for the outdoor season that will probably end up startin mid april, lol

[atm92484_3]

So far the aluminum CVDs seem fine, but if you want to go for the Shiny bones, the 190mm ones for the regular TC3 will work fine.

[fastharry]

well,I'm a real happy camper...Just picked up my second car......I got another RE model....this ones getting a 5 port RB........BTW,I got the factory team motor mounts.....I mean,probably the nicest machined parts I've seen,EVER...And that includes BUY HPI,Kyosho,Serpentand GPM(well,there a joke anyway).....I also ordered the next lower gear ratio's....BTW,with rubber tires,can anyone comment on initial turn in....Like,does it turn in quick....I've run mine on unprepared parking lot in 40 degree weather....I like the way it turns,but it wasn't sharp....I'm hoping it's the temps and traction issue.........But I don't care,I bought the second car anyhow........

[stormperson]

have u guys tried running 32mm rear foams and 28mm fronts at all?

also what parts have u broken yet? i know i broke alot of front a-arms running mod with my tc3 outdoors, as well as hingepins.

[Keeb]

Hi,

I'll be getting a Nitro TC3 in a few weeks.

Can you guys recommend an engine that has:
easy install in Nitro TC3
long lifetime, reliability and ease of start ?
fairly inexpensive

I think I'm leading towards an O.S. .12 ???
Maybe the TR? Also, Slide valve or rotary ?

I probably won't be racing so I'm sure the car will be fast enough regardless of the engine I choose.

How about radios?
I want to spend as little as possible but have reliability, and all the tweakable stuff needed for the Nitro TC3

Thanks!
Rich

[atm92484_3]

Keeb, the 12TR is an excellent choice. Its easy to tune yet still reliable (like any O.S. out there). This would be my reccomendation for an engine. As for the model, I'd go for the slide carb with a pilot (SG) shaft like just about every other NTC3 owner has. For a radio, I'd reccomend something like a Futaba 2PEKA or a Hitec Lynx FM if you're on a budget. No matter what radio you get though, I'd say make sure its an FM.

[kitracer]

Anyone have any problem with the pressure tube from the pipe to the fuel tanks. I have way too much pressure going to the fuel tank even with 10 inch long tube.

Any experience with the CVD on oneway?

I have no problem with it on a front diff, the bumper works really well, and so far I had 3 to 4 gallon on the car. But if any body raced with the oneway on 30 min main would tell me the experince would be great! I don't want to be the first one to tell that I broke the CVD during the final
:(

[Keeb]

Thanks, ATM !

What are the differences between the slide carb and the rotary one? Why is Slide better?

Also, what does the (P) and (S) mean here:

OS Max .12 TR w/#10M Rotary Carb
OS Max .12 TR w/#10J Slide-Valve Carb
OS Max .12 TR(P) w/#10J Slide-Valve Carb
OS Max .12 TR(S) w/#10M Rotary Carb

Also, is it possible to get Pull Start and Side Exhaust on that engine? I was considering getting the Side Exhaust / Pull Start kit.. Any reasons not to get that one ?

Thanks,
Rich

[Conman]

Me want car! "DROOL"
I have a job and hope to buy one soon.
Is there any way to cram an O.S. .40 Four Sroke:p
No kidding I'll make my oun chassis if need be. If not what would the biggest engine that you could fit in it.

[kitracer]

Originally posted by stormperson
have u guys tried running 32mm rear foams and 28mm fronts at all?

also what parts have u broken yet? i know i broke alot of front a-arms running mod with my tc3 outdoors, as well as hingepins.

32 and 28mm - I tried Front 26mm and rear 32mm, it fits but I make better lap time on 26 and 26mm because I can exist the corners faster. I think trying different compound first before switching to wider tires is better choice, at least the narrow tires is cheaper!

Broken parts - keep the front bumper intact and tell yourself that the car will break easily so u will drive it with more caution, and you will not break anything. I had about 4 litre on the car and 1 race meeting and nothing broken yet....... well ( touch wood)

[atm92484_3]

Keeb, for the slide carbs, the arm slides out to open the carb, but for a rotary carb, the arm rotates and opens the carb. The (P) in the name shows that this version has a pilot shaft (extended crankshaft for the clutchbell to ride on) and the (S) signifies that it has a short shaft (meant for the RC10GT, NTC3, NDS, and a few other cars). If you get a rotary carb, get the shortshaft (S) version since the NTC3 kit includes the clutchnut for that. If you want a slide carb, get the pilotshaft (P) version, since the kit includes another clutchnut for that also.

The slide carbs generally allow for a faster throttle response, but sometimes they can be a little harder to tune.

[TUCRACEMAN]

Keeb, it is not possible to get a side exhaust pull start on the OS TR. However, if you want the next best thing you can get the OS CV-R, which comes in a side exhaust, and a pull start if needed.
~Dave

[racer1]

Really love my ntc3, but had a really bad push problem when cornering on and off throttle. Got the set of AE springs and started tweaking the suspension. Ended up going softer on the springs in the front and bumping up all the oil wts. Lots of control in the sweeper and good drifting characteristics in the infield (but really takes a toll on rubber tires!). Im still in the experimental stage, and im very open to suggestions. I want the car to really corner like it was on rails, and be able to hit the throttle without sacrificing the rear comming around. I have the diffs set up as per AE instructions - when I loosened the front diff for more steering, the rear end really came around. Im also using the less Ackerman setup for a more aggresive steering feel. Im running an MT-12, KO high speed digital servos, and sorex tires. Our track is on smooth prepped asphalt (no traction compound, but blown), and its turns are very tight with small straights (except for the long 130 ft straight before a 25-30 ft left turn sweeper). Let me know of any information (or critisizm) that could help.........Thanks.

P.S. Always loved and raced AE kits! AE.........REPRESENT!:cool:

[nitrothugg]

my ntc3

[nitrothugg]

rear

[nitrothugg]

under the hood

[nitrothugg]

another

[nitrothugg]

last one

[Keeb]

So would this engine be a good choice for my NTC3 Pull Start - Side Exhaust ?

.12 CV-RX(S) w/10E-R (rotary) Carb

I'm assuming the X means it's pull start and the (S) is for the Short shaft that I'll need since it's Rotary and Associated..


Thanks for all your help BTW!

Rich

[StevePond]

Originally posted by racer1
Really love my ntc3, but had a really bad push problem when cornering on and off throttle. Got the set of AE springs and started tweaking the suspension. Ended up going softer on the springs in the front and bumping up all the oil wts. Lots of control in the sweeper and good drifting characteristics in the infield (but really takes a toll on rubber tires!). Im still in the experimental stage, and im very open to suggestions. I want the car to really corner like it was on rails, and be able to hit the throttle without sacrificing the rear comming around. I have the diffs set up as per AE instructions - when I loosened the front diff for more steering, the rear end really came around. Im also using the less Ackerman setup for a more aggresive steering feel. Im running an MT-12, KO high speed digital servos, and sorex tires. Our track is on smooth prepped asphalt (no traction compound, but blown), and its turns are very tight with small straights (except for the long 130 ft straight before a 25-30 ft left turn sweeper). Let me know of any information (or critisizm) that could help.........Thanks.

P.S. Always loved and raced AE kits! AE.........REPRESENT!:cool:



racer1 - I think the NTC3 just takes a little while to become used to its driving characteristics. I didn't find my car pushing at all. In fact, it was steering pretty aggressively. Too much brake makes it push, but that's typical of any car. I found that I have to use more brake on this car than belt cars. It feels like it would just glide forever if I never got on the brakes. Try a touch of toe-out in the front as well.

Keeb - the better choice would be the CV-RX with the 10C carb. It's only a few bucks more and it will deliver stronger top end than the 10E.

[Keeb]

<<Keeb - the better choice would be the CV-RX with the 10C carb.

Thanks Steve.

I'm looking on OS's site and HobbyPeople.net and I don't see any mention of a 10C carb?

Rich

[blimey]

here it is at Tower http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXXA45&P=7

[atm92484_3]

Just remember you'll need to cut the crank if you get the version with a 10C carb.

[Keeb]

Well I started building my Pull Start / Side Exhaust NTC3...

My only complaints / lessons learned are that I'll need to buy a set of drivers for the button head allen screws. The L - wrenches it comes with are stripping out fast.
Also, you really do have to be careful about not stripping the 6 screws that hold each differential cover on :) I only stripped one.

One thing that ticked me off is that 3 of the 4 screws that hold the rear diff to the chassis have a problem. It's like they're some oddball inbetween size. The wrench that works fine on the 4 holding the front diff on, strip out instantly on the 3 problem screws. It's like the hole starts too wide and then gets down to the proper size towards the bottom of the hole ( if that makes sense )

Anyways, I'm stopping on Page 12, Step 1 so that I can get some drivers for the 1/16" allen wrench.

Rich

[Fafnir]

I had the same problem with those screws that go into the bottom of the chassis, I suspect that they might be metric??? I am not sure though. I think they may just be cheap screws, as I bought a bag of those screws that are listed as a replacement part on the B3 buggy. The screws that don't seem to strip out have 4 dots on the head and work great. I put the OS .12 CV Hyper in my TC3 and had to cut the shaft to make it fit. For your sake I hope the (s) stands for short shaft, don't try and cut the shaft with a hack saw, I knocked all of the teeth off of mine before buying a dremel tool. :)

I am kind of bummed about the crummy screws in the associated kit. I have been happy with the electric TC3 as well as my B3 kits

[atm92484_3]

.

[rcnutt]

the screws that come with this kit are crap.I stripped 5 or 6 through the whole build up. they are "supposed" to be standard(AE is usa comp.) but they are very poor quality.I hope someone from AE reads this.better screws for a 300.00 kit are not too much too ask.and like stated above,I've had no probs with the 5 prev. AE kits I've built.

[atm92484_3]

Its not the screws; its the user or the wrenches. I built my whole kit with the stock allen wrenches and the only place where I had trouble was with the pivotballs and installing the buttonhead screws for the upperdeck. A high quality set of allen drivers are a much (or have new allen wrenches on hand since used wrenches cause stripping).

[Keeb]

Just to be clear, I didn't say it was the screws.. It's the L wrenches that come w/ the kit.

[Fafnir]

I used a set of brand new trinity allen drivers, you will notice with the flat headed screws that there is a fair amount of "slop" with the correct size allen driver. I tried metric as well to see if that made a difference... it didn't. There is no question in my mind that those screws are of low quality. I bought a replacement package (AE parts) and using the same trinity allen driver they all went in fine... no stripping...


-Chad

[RichieRich]

My brother and I had problems with the L wrenches when building his NTC3. We picked up a set of Dynamite hex drivers and the difference was night and day. Those pivot balls were a bear!

I finally drove my brother's TC3 and it drives very nice compared to my NRS4. I have to agree with SteveP regarding it's handling. It turns like crazy and it rolls forever.

[ragamuffin]

Well, the NTC3 is ready to roll. I fired it up last night (but was unable to drive it due to the time). I am running an MT-12 I "borrowed" from another car. Everything looks okay as far as I can tell.

A tire Q for the local Bay Area racers: I have always used 24mm Yok Sprints, but since the car's maiden voyage will be at Castle's next race, would slightly wider 26mm's work on that tight track?

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by SteveP
You should always be looking for nipples :D ... as far as the pipe goes, don't worry about it. I too would prefer a nice pressure fitting because it just looks better. There's no real risk of the fuel line coming out of the pipe, it just looks pretty lame to have the fuel line stuffed into a hole in the pipe. I tried talking them into making the Factory Team pipe without the hole so I could install a nice fitting, ot maybe thread the hole for a fitting. I'd gladly pay five bucks more for the Factory Team pipe if if were to include a nice 90-degree fitting.

Steve, what I have done in the past (with my T-Maxx's AE pipe), was to secure a pressure-fitting with some JB Weld & let it set up overnight. You're right, it looks awfully hacked to just stuff the tubing into the pipe. Gotta' have some class here, the car deserves it! :D

[ryno]

What would be the fastest gear combo? I was just going to see how fast that I could get this thing to go. I lost my catalog that came with the kit

[rcnutt]

just to be clear.it is the screws.I use craftsman tools and have built over 15 kits in my rc hobby life. the button head screws have a lower carbon content and are softer, and the 1/16 size is a bit small for the amount of presure it takes to thread them in to the plastics.thats funny also, I had no probs with the pillow balls.a little grease goes a long way,and makes all the diff. when your tweeking your ride.still just my 2cents

[TUCRACEMAN]

It's your tools rcnutt. Craftsman makes good wrenches if you're going to work on a Pinto, but not for a NTC3. Get a good set of hobby tools.
~Dave

[rcnutt]

I have no probs with the 5 other cars I work on regularly with these tools.they are the pro hex drivers ,not just the combo fold up or L-style.again its the crap screws.:)

[nitrothugg]

well just my 2 cents... i beleive its not the screws but the tools. when i tried using the stock "L" wrenches they kept stripping. then i pulled out my Stanley fold away driver and i had no problems. the pillow balss were extremely tight however, as were the diff srews.

[nitro_racers]

how fast is the stock tc3?

[atm92484_3]

It really depends on the engine, but you can expect anywhere from probably low 40s to low 60s (but this is with the engine and gearing maxxed out).

[TUCRACEMAN]

OKay nutt. I've only built the car once and rebuilt it 2 other times. BTW, I used the same screws that came with the car.

Yeah Thugg, the Pillow balls were boogers.
~Dave

[rcnutt]

OK forget the screws.I love the car and would buy it again in a second.one thing thats bugging me is I can hardly hear it shift.it is shifting and I have pulled and cleaned the tranny 3 times(tip on page 8)but still can barely hear it shift.compared to a NRS4.anybody else seen anything close.GOT TIPS? thanks rcnutt

[racer1]

Originally posted by rcnutt
OK forget the screws.I love the car and would buy it again in a second.one thing thats bugging me is I can hardly hear it shift.it is shifting and I have pulled and cleaned the tranny 3 times(tip on page 8)but still can barely hear it shift.compared to a NRS4.anybody else seen anything close.GOT TIPS? thanks rcnutt

rcnutt,

are the silver balls holding the 2nd gear clutch shoes loose?
Try holding the second gear clutch housing still while attempting to rock the clutch shoes back and forth. If they rock, they're too loose...and will cause some shifting problems. If so, tightened down the silver set screws holding the shoes down to the drive shaft assy. Also, make sure that your engine is tuned to hit it's maximum power output -
if the engine is not putting out enough power, it won't shift, or have a weak one if any. Hope this helps!:)

[Fafnir]

I agree forget the screws, I love the car, just can't wait until we get some warmer weather again in MN so I can spend some more time driving it. Thanks for the tip on the transmission.

--Chad

[rcnutt]

the sets that hold the balls in are tightened to the point where the shoes are not pushing apart but right on that point, and no rocking.it is shifting , but I just can barely hear it.the fantom engine I have in it is rated at 1.15 hp and 41,000 rpm its running about 210-225 and is very fast.could the moter be catching up real fast?my adjust is about 3-to-3 1/4 turns out.maybe it's too loose and it's under shifting? thanks racer1 I'll try more adjust on the shift point ~rcnutt

[TC3Geek]

Hey guys, I've been reading this thread and hope you won't laugh at me asking some questions you guys probably think are stupid. I'm new to RC'ing and this is my first RC vehicle I'm building. I am not sure if I'm doing the differential building correctly. The instructions say to back off 1/4 turn after the diff nut is tightened to the point where the spring is compressed. How the heck do I know when this is? :confused: Is it when I can turn the diff nut no more?

The reason I ask is because if I tighten the diff nut as far as it can go, then back off 1/4 turn, I get some friction/grinding when I rotate the outdrives. If I loosen the nut a turn or two more, then the outdrives spin freely with little friction. So,

1) How do I know when I've tightened enough?
2) How should the outdrives feel when spun after backing off the recommended 1/4 turn?

Thanks for any help you may be able to offer guys.

[TC3Geek]

Oh, and one more question :

I'll be running pretty much stock and won't be competing or anything anytime soon. I've seen a lot of discussions about the engines you guys are using, but here're a couple of questions I can't seem to find the answers to :

1) What kind of servos are you guys running?

2) What kind of controller?

Thanks again!

[blimey]

Originally posted by TC3Geek
Hey guys, I've been reading this thread and hope you won't laugh at me asking some questions you guys probably think are stupid. I'm new to RC'ing and this is my first RC vehicle I'm building. I am not sure if I'm doing the differential building correctly. The instructions say to back off 1/4 turn after the diff nut is tightened to the point where the spring is compressed. How the heck do I know when this is? :confused: Is it when I can turn the diff nut no more?

The reason I ask is because if I tighten the diff nut as far as it can go, then back off 1/4 turn, I get some friction/grinding when I rotate the outdrives. If I loosen the nut a turn or two more, then the outdrives spin freely with little friction. So,

1) How do I know when I've tightened enough?
2) How should the outdrives feel when spun after backing off the recommended 1/4 turn?

Thanks for any help you may be able to offer guys. The manual states "the spring should be fully compressed at the same time the t nut reaches the end of the slot"
There should be some resistance. The worse mistake to make with a ball diff is to have it too loose!
There are no stupid questions!

[fastharry]

If you have any feeling of grinding,even at 1/4 turn,you did something wrong.....Mine are smooth,though have some resistance,even at 1/8th turn....take them apart and re-do them,paying careful attention to where associated tells you to put diff grease as your asembling........Also,as you're tighteneing down the nut,spin the diffs every1/4 turn of the allen screw when the diff starts to get tight......

[RB Maxx]

Hi all.
I am planning to start with track cars this summer.
I have only had MT trucs for a few years now.
I want to get the best and fastest TC3 for the track.(look image)
I want all hop-ups that i can get to make this car fast and durable.
What engine should i buy for this car and other parts to get the best car?


http://www.oslomodellbilklubb.no/images/nyomkbane350.jpg

[tarvymoto]

What is the location of that track? Thanks

[RB Maxx]

the Track is in Norway. :)

[racer1]

Originally posted by TC3Geek
Hey guys, I've been reading this thread and hope you won't laugh at me asking some questions you guys probably think are stupid. I'm new to RC'ing and this is my first RC vehicle I'm building. I am not sure if I'm doing the differential building correctly. The instructions say to back off 1/4 turn after the diff nut is tightened to the point where the spring is compressed. How the heck do I know when this is? :confused: Is it when I can turn the diff nut no more?

The reason I ask is because if I tighten the diff nut as far as it can go, then back off 1/4 turn, I get some friction/grinding when I rotate the outdrives. If I loosen the nut a turn or two more, then the outdrives spin freely with little friction. So,

1) How do I know when I've tightened enough?
2) How should the outdrives feel when spun after backing off the recommended 1/4 turn?

Thanks for any help you may be able to offer guys.

tc3geek,

stock setting of 1/4 and 1/2 turn out from fully compressing the siff springs were a little to loose for me. I noticed that when i were to punch the throttle (i had a mugen mt-12), it seemed as if i had some slippage - like having a loose set slipper clutch. i went back to the work bench, locked up the brakes, and tested the diffs. i was able to spin one wheel, while holding/locking down the opposite wheel!! it was even more worse for the rear diff.
i immediately tightened up both diffs proportionally and tried rotating one tire while holding it's opposite still. the diffs did not slip. tried it out on the track and punched the thottle -- it did'nt slip anymore. I guess, depending on the performance or output of your engine, you may have to tighten up your diffs.
Oh, and one more thing...when tightening down your diffs untill the springs are fully compressed - there isn't any real way to test if you fully compressed those diff springs. it's all about "feel".
Once you feel like the bolt stops turning and you ask yourself, "I wonder if I should stop?!", 9 out of 10 times its where you want it to be and you should probably stop turning!:D

[RB Maxx]

Come on i need some input here plzzzzzzzz!!!!!

[Fafnir]

RB Maxx:

I would start out with the rear exhaust TC3, add an OS .12 TR that seems to be what most people are running (no warranty on engine though) As for hop ups, the only one I have seen that I really like is the C fiber radio tray and perhaps a sway bar depending on the track. I can't think of anything else that would make a really big difference in terms of performance.


--Good luck it looks like a very nice place to race


Chad

[RB Maxx]

Thanks for the information.

[atm92484_3]

You might want to consider titanium turnbuckles and bearings for the brakes and steering. Other than that, you should be good to go.

[nitrodemon]

I don't want to ruffle an feathers but why does erveryone want to run an OS engine in the NTC3. Just asking because there are several engines out there that cost less and perform the same. Right now I'm running a Fantom .12 and it just screams. Even at out-of-the-box carb settings it runs well into the 40s.

[atm92484_3]

I think people run the O.S.es since they are reliable, powerful, and proven.

[TUCRACEMAN]

Out of the box carb settings???

[rcnutt]

I'm running the fantom 12 also and it is very fast.the factory setting on the carb are abit rich the first 10 tanks the engine did'nt run above 175 or so.now that it's leaned out abit it is almost too much for the small track I run,and it still only runs in the 215-225 range.O.S is hard to argue with, I've run a couple of O.S's in street cars and have a 15 cv-x in my maxx they are great engines(not real hot on the ABN),I just got great reviews from my LHS on the fantom and for the price I thought I'd give it a try, and they were right these engine are very fast.BTW I smacked a board sat. and snapped a pivot ball at the threads, no broked arms or anything else. how weird is that?anybody heard of that happening?

[blimey]

Originally posted by rcnutt
BTW I smacked a board sat. and snapped a pivot ball at the threads, no broked arms or anything else. how weird is that?anybody heard of that happening? I read about that happening somewhere(either this board or one of the others) Hopefully someone will develop a stronger pivot ball.I bought a few extras "just in case"

[Fafnir]

The reason why OS is popular, is because they are one of the most easy to tune engines on the market, and you can walk into about any hobby shop and find parts for them. Also I have never heard of anyone complaining about OS, they have good warranty support and customer service. As for the broken pivot balls, I know there is another brand that works, it is thicker and will require you to drill out the arms so that it will fit. I have heard that the thicker ones break less.

--Chad

[nitrodemon]

The one thing that I can't understand is why OS charges so much for their engines! You would think that they would make them affordable as well as reliable. Plus the fact that almost every LHS sells them they could slash prices!

[atm92484_3]

O.S. makes their parts in Japan, where there is a tax/fine on chroming metal parts since its hazardous to the environment. This tax/fine is then passed onto the consumers and is the reason why their ABC engines cost a little more. IMO its worth it though since they make such good, reliable engines.

[TC3Geek]

Ok guys. Newbie here again. :)

Thanks for those who helped out on the differential question. I think I got it (I guess I'll really be able to tell once I crank the baby up and press the throttle!).

I have another question : Either I'm just stupid or there's something not right about one of these diagrams. Look on page 8, Step 10 for Bag C. If I were to assemble the spurs in that manner, I'd have about a 1/4 - 1/8 inch gap between the 2 spur gears. That can't be right, can it? The only way I can get no separation between the two spur gears is by flipping the larger gear around and have the "fatter" side of the hub on the outside and the 2 gears touching.

Again, take it easy on the newbie, I'm really not this stupid about most other things. :D

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by rcnutt
BTW I smacked a board sat. and snapped a pivot ball at the threads, no broked arms or anything else. how weird is that?anybody heard of that happening?


no but i smacked a board last week and snapped the extension off my rear hub carrier. it was maybe 30 degree weather so maybe that played a part too. do you guys think the carbon upgrade will help prevent this?

[Fafnir]

I finally got to drive my NTC3 :D

It snowed almost all day yesterday in Minnesota and I just couldn't take waiting for spring anymore to drive this thing. (have been driving in small enclosed pole barn) I went to a local transit station that has a covered parking ramp and cranked this thing up and let fly. I was there for close to an hour and no one called security or the police. So for those of you who live in snowy places and have lost your patience for spring you now have an option :D


**will probably go back there tonight

[rcnutt]

what a great idea.I'm in CA and it's raining today and prob. for the next couple of days,BUT I know of a nice,smooth parking garage thats calling my name ~rcnutt:D

[Keeb]

TC3Geek:
Make sure you follow the order of the instructions.
This will have you putting on the e-clip last which then puts it on the outside of the 2266 Gear.

I just finished building mine yesterday. I LOVE IT! Only problem was I painted my body before cutting all the body post holes and I cut the wheel wells per the lines in the body and not to fit my car :( OH well.. live and learn.. already picked up a replacement at the LHS.. I got a HPI Acura RSX (my real car) 200mm and a HPI Dodge Stratus 200mm.

What bodies are you guys using for your Nitro TC3's ?
Do you find that you can use the default wheel well lines in the body or are you having to move them slightly ?

Also, are you guys leaving that wide front bumper intact and sticking out the side of your body or are you trimming it ?
I know it's there for safety, but I really hate the way it looks :)

Rich

[Keeb]

My NTC3 is a pull start / side exhaust.

I have the O.S. .12 CV-RX(s) and a Hitec Lynx FM radio w/ 2 300BB servos.

No compaints so far.

Do any of you guys have the Pull Start version? If so, do you pull it w/ your body on and through the driver window? (FYI, this is my first nitro onroad car and I just got back into the hobby after being into Tamiya cars 14 years ago)

Oh and as far as the whole nuts / tools issue. It should be noted that 6292 4-40 3/8 screws were just manufactured incorrectly. They didn't get stripped. Associated sent me 2 bags of 6 ( and an Associated calendar) for free.

Rich

[nitrodemon]

I plan on cutting the kydex bumber flush with the body (Proline Volvo S-60) just as soon as it gets here.
Does anyone else have the problem of early or silent shifting? I only ask because last weekend I decided to go WOT down my street and HOLY @#$% that !@#$!@ is fast (FAntom .12), but I couldn't hear is shift of it did at all.

Who else is running the Fantom .12? Best engine I've every owned.:cool:

[nitrothugg]

i'm so confused about the shifting point, i dont hear a damn thing, i'm taking it apart right now to make sure i built it correctly.

[racer1]

Just wondering,

You guys with the "unable to hear my car shift" problem...
are you guys using stock pinions?

[Fafnir]

I can't tell if mine is shifting either and I am using the stock pinions. I haven't been able to drive it enough or at WOT. In your opinion at what throttle point should I set up the car to shift??? Or is this something that is really dependent on the track I am running???


--Chad

[nitrothugg]

Originally posted by racer1
Just wondering,

You guys with the "unable to hear my car shift" problem...
are you guys using stock pinions?




i'm going to try it with the 27 tooth 2nd gear and the stock 1st gear. i dont know if i'm building it correctly because when i last ran it, i held it in the air and hit WOT and couldn't tell what it was doing. just to set me straight, the set screws are supposed to screw down so that the shaft does not rock at all? or should there be a little bit of play? i have had mine with just a little bit of play in it.

[Keeb]

There shouldn't be any play between the silver ball and the side of the metal shaft, but it shouldn't be tight either.

You should be able to see a little play when you rotate the shaft back and forth, but that should be out at the edges of the shaft, not where the shaft meets the silver ball (If I remember correctly )

[ragamuffin]

Patience. It usually takes a few tanks before the driveline componants break-in and loosen up. I did end up having to back the shifting screws out 1/4-turn before I noticed the 2-speed shifting. Another thing, ensure that your engine is running at it optimum. A poorly-tuned engine will not produce enough revs to effectively make the transmission shift.

[Zohnmon]

anybody notice slop in their hubs from the pivot balls
on my kit a couple of the covers dont clamp the ball very tight causing a little bit of slop in my hubs
and wahat about after they wear a little
hope an aftermarket company comes out with more traditional hubs(adjustable)

[maximumspeed]

could more people post pics of the NTC3.

pleazzzz.:D

[atm92484_3]

Heres an Eclipse body on my NTC3.

[StevePond]

Here's mine:

[rcnutt]

here ya go:D

[rcnutt]

and the new one

[Zohnmon]

mine

[Zohnmon]

more

[StevePond]

This is my chassis. Still box stock.

[rcnutt]

hey steve, have you or anybody running RE engines had probs. with oil not blowing up and out of the pipe?the small incline as the pipe makes its first turn looks like oil would flow back toward the exhaust chamber.

[Zohnmon]

just finished a plate to start my ntc3 with my serpent powerstart

[Zohnmon]

the car sits sideways locking into the channel and the peg goes through the chassis hole in front of the engine

[StevePond]

Originally posted by rcnutt
hey steve, have you or anybody running RE engines had probs. with oil not blowing up and out of the pipe?the small incline as the pipe makes its first turn looks like oil would flow back toward the exhaust chamber.


Not at all. My pipe is not installed with an upward angle, but even if was to a slight degree, it wouldn't matter. Most pipes are built with the stinger (exhaust outlet) exiting the pipe at 90 degrees, so if oil puddling in the pipe were a problem, it would happen regardless of any slight angle in the pipe. The exhaust blows most of the residual oil out of the pipe.

[StevePond]

Zohn - very cool. :cool:

You know you can use a buggy starter on these things, right? I guess that rig does ave you the expense of having to buy another starter box. Good work.

[Zohnmon]

thanx steve
i sold my impulse and had the box lying around
i work in a cabinet shop so the materials and tools were free
and i never have liked them little nubs you position on the ofna type boxes(have an ofna i use on my ftgt)
i like the positive lock my plate provides

[TC3Geek]

Anybody know if there's any difference between MIP thread lock and Loctite Blue? I can't find the tube/packet of MIP thread lock in any of my bags for the CVD assembly and am tempted to just use the bottle of Loctite I have. Is this safe?

[atm92484_3]

Yes its safe TC3. Thats what I did for my CVDs.

[TC3Geek]

Hot damn, this is fun. My first nitro vehicle, and I torture myself by building it from the ground up. :)

Man those roll pins on the CVD's were a pain. :mad:

Thanks atm.

[Fafnir]

Okay, I rebuilt the two speed on my NTC3 and now it is very clear when this thing shifts. Thanks for the help, I had things too tight. Now that I have loosened it up a bit it shifts around half throttle.


Thanks everyone for the help


Chad

[stormperson]

i ran into a problem once i finished my nitro tc3, and its that the CVD's are too short. i used the track guage, and a hudy set up station. i then realized that even with the track guage, the car was 205mm wide. the cross pins in the cvds that go into the outdrives, are only half on the outdrive, and they can easily fall out. i dont know if i got the wrong dog bones or something...

anyone else have this problem?

btw i am very pleased with how the car went together, AE did a great job covering the tougher parts of building a pivot ball nitro car, and it screams quality. i cant wait to get out and race it! too bad the outdoor season starts mid april though, i will just keep on racing with my electric tc3 until then.

[StevePond]

Originally posted by stormperson
i ran into a problem once i finished my nitro tc3, and its that the CVD's are too short. i used the track guage, and a hudy set up station. i then realized that even with the track guage, the car was 205mm wide.

The car is only supposed to be 200mm wide. That might be why the driveshafts are half falling out of the drive cups. Check the instructions again and use the included gauge to set the distance between the suspension arms and the hubs by scewing the pivot balls in or out. It's fairly straight forward.

[RichieRich]

Did you set the spacing right for the lower pivot ball using the little plastic tool? I set up the entire suspension and then forgot about setting the track width. :eek: Had to redo everything.

I hate it when I can't post. This is the 3rd time I've pressed the "submit reply" button.

[StevePond]

hang in there Richie. Were making the first steps towards putting the BB and the video downloads on their own server. It should free up some processing power and bandwidth. It's a busy time right now.

[RichieRich]

Okay, cool. Thanks for the update, Steve! :) :)

[ragamuffin]

Here's mine...

[Raydee]

Ok I was looking at the Nitro TC3 and even though I am no longer an AE fan, the TC3 looks good! I do have some questions though.

I have a MT-12 with the SG shaft laying around....will it fit with no mods?

If I buy a regular shaft engine will it need to be cut to fit like the RC-10GT?

[atm92484_3]

The MT12 with the SG shaft will drop right in with no mods. You are correct; you'll need to cut the shaft for a regular shaft engine.

[Raydee]

Man I don't know why AE had to go and make their cars like that! I recently sold a great Picco motor because the crank was cut for my GT and would not go in any other car without spending $50 on a new crank! I think it is a stupid design.

[atm92484_3]

Why do other companies make cranks with 1/2" of wasted material? ;)

[stormperson]

SteveP, even if the car was 200mm wide, the dogbones would jsut barely fit in, which seems kinda odd. you would think that set at stock width and everything that the dogbones should be in the middle of the outdrive, not right on the edge.

and i used the track gauge, however it still came out wide, i will use a ruler this time.

[rcnutt]

maybe it's a MIP issue. when I bought cvd's for my tmaxx they sat at the edge of the drive cups too. I called MIP and they told me I must have got one of the first sets and that the drive cups that came with the first sets where too short and they had redesigned them to be longer to capture more of the shaft. they told me to send them the cups and they sent me the new longer ones. just a thought.mine sit at the edge too but I haven't had any probs with them. has anybody had probs with too much preasure going to their tank? I have two loops in my exhaust line and I seem to be blowing fuel out the cap when it's full.the o-ring looks fine.would a 3rd loop help?

[Raydee]

Atm.......almost all the other companies!!!

[TC3Geek]

First of all, my dogbones are sitting close to the edge as well, but I'm still building mine.

Secondly, my friend recently bought the same car. He's having the following problem :

1) assume you hold the chassis up.
2) Now you slowly spin the drive shaft manually using your hand.
3) you can see all 4 dogbones spinning and all 4 sides of the differentials spinning.
4) After a few turns of the driveshaft, however, the right rear side just stops spinning. The other 3 can still keep spinning.

Any ideas what could cause this? I'm assuming the diff was built wrong, but what would cause it?

[rcnutt]

sounds like the rear diff could be a bit loose

[TC3Geek]

Thanks RCNut.

One thing we noticed was right rear suspension would kind of hop as we turned the driveshaft. We thought it could be the way the CVD was assembled. We noticed that the coupling inside the CVD axle had a bit of a rough time tourning. We cleaned it, then re-greased it, but there was still quite a bit of friction. It could spin inside it, but not without some friction. Or is this how it should be? He's praying he doesn't have to take it apart to get at the rear diff. :D

[TC3Geek]

Hey, what's with these new TC3 Nitro tuned pipes? :D

http://www.wildhobbies.com/news/default.asp?cmd=view&articleid=534

[blimey]

Pics of AE's new starter box are on their website under the new items section.http://www.teamassociated.com/newprod/pictures/1750_starterbox-webb.jpg

[RichieRich]

I like the new tuned pipes. The dual chambered ones sound cool.

TC3 Geek - Sounds like you have some binding. I bet it is the CVD. I would assemble it as best you can and wait for it to break-in after you run it a few times.

[daramirez]

rcnutt

I also live in the Sacramento area. Where do you run your ntc3? I'd like to get one, but I can't think of any places where I'd be able to run with anyone else. Just curious.

-daramirez

[stormperson]

the dual chambered one doesnt seem to be for more power, just quieter.

also i brought my car to 200mm wide, and the cvd pins are still barely in the outdrives. i know that the mugen fast wheels have very little offset, however i find this really pecular that this is happenening.

are the cvd dogbone pins for anyone else right on the edge of the outdrive?

[atm92484_3]

Those FT pipes look so sweet.

My CVDs aren't what I would call on the edge of the outdrive, but they are close. I think as long as you set the car up like the manual states, you are okay; its when you try making it wider than the legal limit that you run into problems.

[blimey]

We have 2 at our house and both have cvds that are "close" to the edge.Doesn't seem to be a problem

[rczonexxnt]

a few years back I had an hpi nitro rs4. I am thinking of getting back into nitro TC. The AE car is on the top of my list. my problem - all my cars are losi. what I didn't like about the rs4 is that I needed metric tools to use it (more junk in the tool box).

I don't think losi is going to come out with a nitro xxxs, so if I want nitro TC, AE is probably what I would get. The tracks near me run a mix of everything - very few nitro TC3s (probably because they are new).

Is it worth it to mix and match cars or should I stick with my losi cars.

thanks.

[rcnutt]

daramirez~ I run at sac RC it's off 47th ave off hyw 99. they set up a pretty good road course on sat and sun.it's on 27th off 47th thier # is 916-424-4001 beware LOTS of rookies, but we all started somwhere ~rcnutt

[stormperson]

i think that the reflex nt is going to become the losi nitro tc, since losi and trinity are pretty tightly allied. thus all of their factory drives will have a car to run in nitro touring.

however i would suggest the nitro tc3, if you have alot of losi's since the screws and the tools are mostly the same.

[StevePond]

Originally posted by rczonexxnt
Is it worth it to mix and match cars or should I stick with my losi cars.

thanks.

At present, you don't have much of a choice. I think the Nitro TC3 is an excellent choice.

[Fafnir]

I have seen some people replace the spring that is part of the brake linkage with a piece of fuel tubing. Has anyone on this list tried this? If so what difference did you see???


--Chad

[ragamuffin]

Using brake tubing instead of the stock spring gives stronger, more positive braking response. On the NTC3, however, the brakes are so strong that unless you use caution in setting them, they will lock up more easily with the tubing instead of the spring.

[Fafnir]

ragamuffin,

that is kind of what I had thought (more positive brakes) but with the spring they lock up really easily, even with the ABS feature on the radio. Thanks for the help. Do you think it makes it easier to get a more consistent drag break? I have noticed when I get it just right this car will turn on a dime without losing too much speed. Too much break bleeds off too much speed, not enough break and it pushes. It seems like the drag break is never the same when I let off of the throttle so I will try the fuel tubing.


Thanks again-

Chad

[blimey]

I believe that Mr.Pond referenced the fuel tubing issue in his article in RC Nitro.He said he exaggerated the sensitive brakes by using the tubing instead.He does go on to say that he was able to smooth things out by tweaking the radio a bit.
See Steve we do pay attention :D

Anyone tried wide foams on their NTC3 yet (30/32mm rears)Just curious with the way the rear upright extends it looks tough.

[atm92484_3]

I just finished up break-in on the Nitro TC3 (lol some 3 months after I got it), and the 12 TR hauls. I'd reccomend it to anyone looking for a rear exhaust racing engine.

I run fuel tubing also on the brakes, and with just 50% of the travel from the center hole on the stock servo horn, I can lock the brakes up with no trouble and I'm only running an S3003 servo. I've found I had to dial the 3PDF down to 20% for brake throw. Its to the point where its right on the edge of locking the brakes now.

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by Fafnir
Do you think it makes it easier to get a more consistent drag break?


Still working on that... ;)

[drlang]

Originally posted by stormperson
the dual chambered one doesnt seem to be for more power, just quieter.

also i brought my car to 200mm wide, and the cvd pins are still barely in the outdrives. i know that the mugen fast wheels have very little offset, however i find this really pecular that this is happenening.

are the cvd dogbone pins for anyone else right on the edge of the outdrive?

My car had a similar problem. It turned out that I had switched the rear left and right carriers on the rear. This caused the CDV length to be wrong. Be cause of the Diff ofset. When they are in right the moldings for the socket cap screws have a nub in the bottom set and they will all be down on the front and back.

[phistration]

Here is my NTC3 with its first two bodies. Let me know what you think.
http://www.geocities.com/phistration/Celica.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/phistration/Celica1.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/phistration/Celica2.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/phistration/Celica3.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/phistration/AudiTT.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/phistration/AudiTT1.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/phistration/AudiTT2.JPG

[StevePond]

When I clicked your links, it just says, "This page is not available. "

[TC3Geek]

Highlight the link, right-click on the link, select "Copy Shortcut" (in IE). Open a new browser window, paste the link into the "Address" dropdown (where you type URL's). Hit <ENTER>.

That should work.

Clicking the links directly didn't work for me. Maybe geocities is trying to cut down on hosting images and getting linked to death on other sites. :)

[ragamuffin]

Who has tried the AE composite CVD's? I picked up a set for spares.

[atm92484_3]

I forget who it was, but I think someone around here (or maybe it was HPI) tried it. IMO they'd make good spares since they are $8 for 4, even if they don't last as long as the steel or aluminum CVDs.

[Ketchnu]

Any got any suggestions for wheel and tire sizes, brands, part numbers for the nitro tc3 for asphalt racing. I am new to on-road cars and would appreciate any help I can get. Thanks for any replies:rolleyes:

[speedydave]

I haven't done much onroad racing yet, and I don't have the NTC3(I have the electric TC3), however, what I would do is go around and ask the fat guys at your track what they use. If you are just bashing, something like PL V-Rages or Fury's would be a good choice(something similar to the stock tires). Have fun!

[Raydee]

I just finished my Nitro TC3 tonight and I went to fit the body from my Mugen and I notices that the plastic on the front bumper sticks out way to far. Did I miss something in the instructions or something? I think I may just have to take the dremel to it and hack it down to match the foam bumper! Any Idea's?

[StevePond]

The long ends on the bumper are there as extra protection for banging the boards. The bumper at full width is intended to stick out from the body. Racing rules don't allow the bumper to stick out beyond the body, so you'll need to hack the tips off the bumpers before you go to a track that follows the rules.

[rcnutt]

the v-rage lasted about 4 tanks.I've been running ellegi treaded rubbers from then on. I ran b compoud all the way aroud the first two sets but they were wearing fast in front so I went with a little harder d compound in front and they are lasting very well.I can get a couple of weekends out of this setup. the d's push a little, but with a little driving adjustment they work great,and the weather should start to warm up.the sad thing is my LHS gets 23.95 a pair mounted.I have a set of ellegi foams(40 rear-45 front)that my local track is just to rough for.me and some friends are going to a great track in antioch, about 2 hr's away, and these should work great.anybody tried any hpi or others?as for the bumpers, I broke two before I went and made my own out of lexan.just trimed off the ears and traced it.

[Raydee]

I ran the Nitro TC3 last night for the first time in a parking lot at about 8 at night and 25 degrees outside and I can only say that this car is a rocket. Ran it with foam tires and the MT-12 and it is fast!! You can't even here the clutch type 2-speed shift, it is very smooth and the drivetrain is great! It turns on a dime and the brakes are perfect. I hate to say it but I like it way better than my Mugen MTX-2. I wish they would design a SUper Nitro TC3....That would be great.

[phistration]

I ran my NTC3 for the fisrt time today with the Picco rear exhaust. I can't begin to explain how quick this thing was. After breaking in the engine I decided to see what it could do. Well the transmission didn't shift but it was still pretty fast. The handling was really good with the stock set up. It did push under power but getting off the throttle got it back in line. I am very happy with this car and engine. I don't know how I ever did without them.

[littlej72]

First off I have a standard shaft RB X-12 (5 port) (slide carb rear exhaust bump start) and it dos'nt fit, first i had to cut the shaft(which I kinda figured) so that problem was solved, I went to put the clutch bell on and had to practically press the damn bearing that fits into it's base in there(it was damaged) anyway that is not the major problem. If the engine is sitting where there mount holes line up it crams the gears back into the rear suspension, if i line up the gears right it dos'nt line up with the holes. This is my first RB engine so i dont really know what to do here I will be calling AE tommorow as I have had several problems with the kit and am very unhappy. By the way I work as a technician at a local acura dealership so my technical skills arent to blame here, I'm just a little ticked that so far this engine is a total misfit! I here they run like the dickens though, so hopefully I'll find out before the weather goes to shi- again. If anybody has had engine fitment probs lemme know, thanks.

[nitrodemon]

Sounds like you didn't cut enough off the crackshaft. I have no experience with RB engines but I know for a fact that OS engines drop right in and most ofther MFGs that follow the same dimensions as OS.

[nitrothugg]

after rebuilding the 2 speed for the third time, i finally heard it shifting! following the manual, mine was shifting so early that if i pegged full throttle you would never hear it. i'm happy now that i figured all that out. i was reading "xtreme rc" magazine and they had a picture of the new titanium chasis, radio tray, and main shaft for the NTC3 already! let the upgrades begin!

[littlej72]

Yes the TR pilot shaft my friend has drops right on, but my rb wont. Just from looking at it i dont see how cutting more off the shaft would help, if not enough is cut off all that will happen is the pilot shaft (extension) would just bottom out on the end of the main shaft and never tighten the flywheel down, i dont have that problem. Did anyone have a problem getting the bearing inside the clutchbell at the base into the bell? thanks. By the way the screw do suck, some are from one manufacture and some from another. The tools suck as well, the directions and overall quality of the car are good, but for my $300 bucks I can see a few things that definately should have been improved. (I've got to get this thing going so I can put those darn "Trinity Reflex NT's" to shame as I know this car will.

[stormperson]

the screws dont suck. i built the whole car, and didnt strip a single one. i used MIP and integy tools, some of which are a few years old.

if you are using the allen keys, then of course you are going to strip things. invest and get a good set of tools, they will last you a long time, and will save you alot of agrivation in the long run.