Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v2.0

[Kazie]

what glow plug do you guys use? mc59?

[trakhak]

Kazie, I use assoc. plug and also Dynamite std. plugs. Both work well. Peace

[FrankyRizzo]

ould 30mm 40 shore and 37 shore Fast Tires work well in Las Vegas?

I use the 42 shore front and 40 rear. 26mm and 30mm repectably.
Great for the Silverbowl Speedway

[fastharry]

nothing is better in an OS engine than a OS #8.....in fact,OS #8's ,as long as its OK to run a short plug,are probably the biggest tuning secret for cranky engines...

[Kazie]

mmm my car doesnt seem to shift into 2nd..it just accelerates and then starts to slow down on full throttle.... using 3 shoes drilled with copper springs..howmany turns do you guys set your clutch at from fully compressed?

[FrankyRizzo]

3.5 turns

[RS4 3]

I really want a nitro tc3 any one selling?

[bimmerboym3]

Rush Sale:

Nitro TC3 (non-RTR kit) with KO EX-1 Transmitter, Starter box, Tool box, 2 motors, etc....


visit http://www.geocities.com/m3autoparts/ntc3.html for pictures

m3autoparts@attbi.com

[Kazie]

Hey guys, I just broke in my os tr12, I have a few questions... first off i dont think my car is going in second? it goes pretty damn fast but am i suppose to hear the engine change rpms? like a real car does?also i leaned it out a bit and i think its going fast, but when i full throttle and it reaches a certain speed a line of smoke comes out of the muffler..does that mean im still running too rich? and after my engine gets...ill call it "hot" the car starts to craw forward by itself even when my tx is at neutral..it only does this after the engine gets hotter.. whats the fix guys? THANKS!

[us_matrix]

Has anyone of you guys tried (GH Front blade roll bar)? it is much cheaper than Team associated make. I was wondering that does it work as well as Team associated front blade roll bar and does the same job? And is it able to adjust to different degree?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Kazie
Hey guys, I just broke in my os tr12, I have a few questions... first off i dont think my car is going in second? it goes pretty damn fast but am i suppose to hear the engine change rpms? like a real car does?also i leaned it out a bit and i think its going fast, but when i full throttle and it reaches a certain speed a line of smoke comes out of the muffler..does that mean im still running too rich? and after my engine gets...ill call it "hot" the car starts to craw forward by itself even when my tx is at neutral..it only does this after the engine gets hotter.. whats the fix guys? THANKS!

when in doubt,always go back to the base settings,ESP. an an OS engine.....if the car is crawling foward,it could be the idle speed is too high,the LOW END mixture is to lean,or you didn't put the cltch springs on right.....

as far as shifting,you will hear it shift...thats goona take some playing around..first get you motor running right,then adjust the 2 sp....BTW,with an OS in it,even if its stuck in first the car will fly....when it hits second,its a rocket..take your time,and don't forget to adjust BOTH shoes equally......

[fastharry]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Has anyone of you guys tried (GH Front blade roll bar)? it is much cheaper than Team associated make. I was wondering that does it work as well as Team associated front blade roll bar and does the same job? And is it able to adjust to different degree?


I run the associated with the optional metal mounts.....whats nice about these are that unlike the stock associated palstic mounts where you have to remove the bumper to gte to the set screw,teh FT mounts have the set screw positioned so you can get to it from the bottom...

[80s_tamiya]

hi:

ordered a NTC3 RTR, shopping for fuel, what are some good brands/% to use?

[Keiger]

I need to cut my crank on my OS.
The question I have is I am going to put it in my NTC3 and I am woundering if I need to use the spacer that is in my instruction book for my RC10gt. (the truck book tells you how to go about cutting the crank for different engines)It is telling me to use a spacer that is in the kit for the truck and it also came with a cut off nut.
Will this cut off nut work for instal for the NTC3?
Do I just instal the flywheel on the 12 and add the cut off and wack it off flush and put it in the car?
Or do I need to add the spacer that is in the truck kit?
Thanks Keig

[atm92484_3]

Keiger, you could always try installing the spacer, cutting, then if its too long, remove the spacer and cut the rest. I'd reccomend using the spacer though. It sounds like you have all the stuff, but heres a link to the online file (not sure if they've updated anything or not, but it is aimed at both GT and NTC3 owners).

http://www.rc10.com/pdf/cutcrank.pdf

[FrankyRizzo]

shopping for fuel, what are some good brands/% to use?

O Donnel 30%. I used to use Monster but it leaves a brown residue on the piston when you pull off the head. O'D has never left any residue and the power is awesome.

[FrankyRizzo]

BTW one of my racers is for sale. All the race goodies.

rotorhead@lvcm.com if interested. Do not answer here because this is not a selling forum. Just wanted to let you guys know since I frequent here often and most of you know my stuff.

[DUMMIECHASER]

wassup guys i m planning on buying an rc next week here are my choices traxxas 4tec,hpi super nitro rs4or the nitro tc3?which one is faster or should i say fastest after a few upgraded or just rtr.:confused: :D

[DUMMIECHASER]

guys i never went to a race track befo .would they allow a person new too r/c with a rtr.And if they do are u allowed too bet money on races.thanks guyz bye:( :rolleyes:

[80s_tamiya]

Originally posted by DUMMIECHASER
wassup guys i m planning on buying an rc next week here are my choices traxxas 4tec,hpi super nitro rs4or the nitro tc3?which one is faster or should i say fastest after a few upgraded or just rtr.:confused: :D

just went through the same choices and went with the NTC3.
my 0.02:

like the adjustability of the NTC3 suspension and ball diffs, wanted shaft drive, plus the motor and pipe seems to be better than the hpi (ABC and 2 needle carb). the traxxas seems pretty decent (with the new 2.5 motor) but isn't available for a while and has belt drive. traxxas should be the fastest out of the box in a straight line (35-40k rpm and a tall 2-speed) but i'm banking on the fact that the ntc3 will handle much better. plan to add a two speed at some point and play with the gearing. this is my first new car in about 15 years so i'm guessing it will outhandle anything i've ever driven :)

[Keiger]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Keiger, you could always try installing the spacer, cutting, then if its too long, remove the spacer and cut the rest. I'd reccomend using the spacer though. It sounds like you have all the stuff, but heres a link to the online file (not sure if they've updated anything or not, but it is aimed at both GT and NTC3 owners).

http://www.rc10.com/pdf/cutcrank.pdf

atm92484
thanks thats probley a good ideal. My luck I would do it like I cut 2x4's too darn short. Thanks

FrankyRizzo
rotorhead@lvcm.com
Franky I am guessing your like my buddy that lives in Idaho and goes by Rotorhead also. "Helicopter Mech".?

[FrankyRizzo]

Franky I am guessing your like my buddy that lives in Idaho and goes by Rotorhead also. "Helicopter Mech".?

I do like helo's but it is actually derived from being a wankel fanatic. In my heyday I had 4 RX-7's in great shape.

[us_matrix]

Has anyone of you guys tried (GH Front blade roll bar) which made by Golden Hobbies? Is it as good as Team Associated make and easy to adjust different degree?

[DUMMIECHASER]

Originally posted by 80s_tamiya
just went through the same choices and went with the NTC3.
my 0.02:

like the adjustability of the NTC3 suspension and ball diffs, wanted shaft drive, plus the motor and pipe seems to be better than the hpi (ABC and 2 needle carb). the traxxas seems pretty decent (with the new 2.5 motor) but isn't available for a while and has belt drive. traxxas should be the fastest out of the box in a straight line (35-40k rpm and a tall 2-speed) but i'm banking on the fact that the ntc3 will handle much better. plan to add a two speed at some point and play with the gearing. this is my first new car in about 15 years so i'm guessing it will outhandle anything i've ever driven :) well thanks

[RS4 3]

my brother has a ntc3, he beats any one one the racetrack, every one else has fast engines, and everything, but they have like traxxas cars,and some guy even a serpent!
so the tc3 is the best

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

hey what is the other one way that is used in the tc3? besides the AE one

[FrankyRizzo]

Yokomo has the best one out

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

thanks Franky

another question. my front one way fells really rough not smooth. what should u i do? what is the problem?

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

also will the novak XXtra reciver fit in the reciver box?

[jnegrx]

For the guys that are wondering about the bumpers on the RTR and the kit the dif. is that the RTR is one piece and the kit is several. the bumper in the kit is the bumper, skid plate?, and the rubber plugs. The RTR is one unit. I'm not 100% sure about this but i'll check.

The novak exxtra will fit i have one and works great.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR
thanks Franky

another question. my front one way fells really rough not smooth. what should u i do? what is the problem?

All one-ways come soaked of grease, all I've had got the same treatment:

First: Clean the bearings with motor spray to remove the grease.
Second: Apply to the outdrive just only a dab of Serpent one-way oil.

This oil is one of the best I've seen on so many years and I've used on all my one-ways with a lot of success. The best of all is their price, who is cheap and a full bottle can last several years (mine is at half and much time ago lost their sticker).

And when the one-ways are brand new come a little tight, but with some minutes of use they soften and work at 100%.

[FrankyRizzo]

If it's an AE one way than the bearing is shot. Try cleaning it with alcohol to see if you can get tad more life in it.

[80s_tamiya]

Originally posted by jnegrx
For the guys that are wondering about the bumpers on the RTR and the kit the dif. is that the RTR is one piece and the kit is several. the bumper in the kit is the bumper, skid plate?, and the rubber plugs. The RTR is one unit. I'm not 100% sure about this but i'll check.

The novak exxtra will fit i have one and works great.

this link might help (tells all differences between rtr and side-exhaust kit):
http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_ntc3/partsNTC3.pdf

[fezzy]

After some serious deliberation and thinking i have decided to give very serious thought to the NTC3 as mentioned, I've done some pricing and spoken to a few peoples and decided that a Nitro TC3 and OS 12CVR-X are on the cards, what do you think to that combo? Anyone running the 12CVR in there NTC3?

Thanks
-ash

[Temjin006]

Where can I get the Yokomo one way diff? I dont want to spend my money on the AE if it breaks all the time.

[FrankyRizzo]

www.rcboyz.com or call 801-252-0244

great people awesome service even better prices.

[Temjin006]

Thanks Franky, but i asked them long ago and just b4 too. They are currently out of stock.

[Mystracing]

fezzy - I ran the .12 CVR in my NTC3 all of last season. It's a great combination, especially to start with. The CVR will serve you well. Unless your racing on extremely large tracks the power will be plenty. On shorter tracks, like I typically race on, the CVR really shines because of the low end torque. Geared properly it's a rocket out of the corners.

At our season championship the finish order for the 30 minute A-main was 1st - NTC3/OS 12CVR, 2nd - Muegen MTX2 / MT12, 3rd - Serpent / Rossi. Even with the power difference it still comes down to getting around the track the fastest. The reliability of the OS will allow you to spend more time driving and learning about the car, and less time tuning and worrying the engine.

My two cents about it anyway.

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

hey thanks for the info. but i am using a fornt ball diff. when i turn the diff it fells like the balls are kinda grining do i just needa take it aparts clean it and re asemble it or do i have to buy the diff rebuild kit?

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

oen other thing i know this is ff the subject but i as woudnering if 30 dollrs is good for a m8 limited editionw ith a XXTra reciver 3 xtals and a hard case? thanks

[atm92484_3]

Try cleaning and relubing the diff and thrust bearing first. Then if that doesn't solve the problem, you'll need a rebuild kit and maybe new diff balls. Just make sure everything is tightened properly when you install the new parts.

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

oen other thing i know this is ff the subject but i as woudnering if 30 dollrs is good for a m8 limited editionw ith a XXTra reciver 3 xtals and a hard case? thanks


i ment $230.00 good deal ?

[FrankyRizzo]

You can also flip the washers over and use the other side to avoid buying new ones.

[speedyOB-4]

Franky,
I see you live in Nevada. Do you know of any R/C tracks around the strip that will be racing Thanksgiving weekend?
Thanks!
-Andy

[FrankyRizzo]

The Silverbowl is the only track in town. It is east of strip past boulder highway. It really isn't not to far away. If you like email me if you come into town. rotorhead@lvcm.com

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

hey i was rebuildng both my diffs today and i noticed that my rear diff has a spring and that my front diff dosnt. what the spring for is the front suposed to have one also. and is it nessesary.

[atm92484_3]

I am assuming you mean the thrust spring. Yes it is necessary. Without it, there is minimal pressure going to the diff and it will easily loosen. Look in the outdrive and make sure it isn't stuck in there (I've had that happen before). If it isn't, make sure you get one before you reassemble the car.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fezzy
After some serious deliberation and thinking i have decided to give very serious thought to the NTC3 as mentioned, I've done some pricing and spoken to a few peoples and decided that a Nitro TC3 and OS 12CVR-X are on the cards, what do you think to that combo? Anyone running the 12CVR in there NTC3?

Thanks
-ash

Like Mystracing, I too used the OS 12 CVR for my NTC3 for the last 4 races..........just cannot beat the quality of the engine, no need to tune, no need to worry, almost like RTR, except it is a little less power on bigger track (compare to Nova, JP and Coralli..)
On the last race of the season, took 1st on all qualifer, and 2nd on the main just behind a heavily modified Super Nitro RS4 (he was in a wrong class, so it is not a fair race).

See here for my result.....

http://www.greggorcom.net/rc/results/onroad_021027.htm

In fact, if you are interested, I have that 95% new CVR (professionally broken in)for sell now, since I just got a T5 for the next season.

Please awared that the CVR is a side exhaust engine, if you are interest, email me....I will attach a brand new NTC3 header and pipe for free.

[kakolitoy]

How much is ur OS I will install that to one of my car.

[jnegrx]

Finally AE has realized that their one way doesn't last. The good news is that AE will be using Yokomo one ways as a running change so for those of you that wanted the Yokomos get the new AE ones because they will be the same. This info comes from AE site.

nitro_ob4 i think $230 is a good deal but make sure every thing is in working order. The M8 is one of the best radios out. The novak xxtra work great and soon novak will release the new synthetized module for the M8, so no more xtals.:D

[jnegrx]

sorry double posted.

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

I GOT MY M8!!!:D :D i paid 150 for the normal m8 with reciver and xtals good deal. droped off at my house:) now i just gotta charge my ntc3 batt pack and im off to race tomrow hey but with the people with the m8 radio. when you goto m-name i can keep goin trew all the alphebet and after the abc's there is letters in chinese or sumthin is this normal with a m8? thanks

[piccoracer123]

i just bought my ntc3 i have bin racing 8th scale but i wanted to give turing a try so i went with the tc3 i have bin outfiting it with a lot of hopups so i hope it will make a vast impruvment over the stock handling i put on it:front one way hadrcore pro chassis,uperdec,driveshaft,brake block imput cup , imput cup,ball bearings for the stearing ,a pixi black motor thats abought onice i get it all cleaned up i will post a pic

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by piccoracer123
i just bought my ntc3 i have bin racing 8th scale but i wanted to give turing a try so i went with the tc3 i have bin outfiting it with a lot of hopups so i hope it will make a vast impruvment over the stock handling i put on it:front one way hadrcore pro chassis,uperdec,driveshaft,brake block imput cup , imput cup,ball bearings for the stearing ,a pixi black motor thats abought onice i get it all cleaned up i will post a pic

Piccoracer:

I race an NTC3 and is mostly box stock but the biggest change is on the tranny. Rather than installing other hop ups I focused on improving with performance on mind. All the tranny is the lightweight (clutch bell, 1st -one way- and 2nd -clutch- and this is the major upgrade you can do on this car) along with harder clutch springs.

Differences on acceleration are quite noticeable (on the starting grid the car is ballistic) and I outpower other NTC3's. Other parts can be fine and some eye looking.

Other fine and interesting options can be the lightweight screw set to reduce the weight on the upper of the car (this lowed a little the CG, ever interesting). Other parts have been changed as worn or broken (blue transom bar) or I noticed an improvement using them (blue aluminium sway bar holders).

Rest of parts are box stock (all plastic parts). I'll attach a photo of it.

[us_matrix]

Where can i get those blue allum screws? Do you have the URL?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Where can i get those blue allum screws? Do you have the URL?

Yep... are the original ones for the TC3, but beware of installing them on some areas. Get my car as a template and don't install on the underside of the chasis if so, you could raise the CG rather than lowering.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Piccoracer:

I race an NTC3 and is mostly box stock but the biggest change is on the tranny. Rather than installing other hop ups I focused on improving with performance on mind. All the tranny is the lightweight (clutch bell, 1st -one way- and 2nd -clutch- and this is the major upgrade you can do on this car) along with harder clutch springs.

Differences on acceleration are quite noticeable (on the starting grid the car is ballistic) and I outpower other NTC3's. Other parts can be fine and some eye looking.

Other fine and interesting options can be the lightweight screw set to reduce the weight on the upper of the car (this lowed a little the CG, ever interesting). Other parts have been changed as worn or broken (blue transom bar) or I noticed an improvement using them (blue aluminium sway bar holders).

Rest of parts are box stock (all plastic parts). I'll attach a photo of it.

Still use the OLD tank...? How's the Sirio engine...?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Still use the OLD tank...? How's the Sirio engine...?

Yep! I don't have flameout problems due to it and I dry completely the tank without problems, track buddies sometimes see a flameout thinks about the tank, but I got my trusty screwdriver and I'll retune the engine... few seconds after: Ready for fustigate 'gently' some asses :D

I'm in process of break-in the Sirio, starting to lean it, but what I'm seeing promises a lot. 30 & 1 Dec I have a race, this should be the first day who I run the Sirio on race conditions.

BTW: I noticed a performance improvement porting the manifold and some temp decrease, saw on other forum an example and did it. Cheap and good improvement. Isn't necessary to burn lot of bucks to have a mean racing machine (I polished the pipe and the manifold with dremel and polishing paste for being more 'eye candy' :D )

[Stelli]

Hey does anyone know if I can use the Hot Bodies TC shocks on the TC3? because I noticed they are cheaper then getting the factory team set with out aluminum caps. The HB shocks are all aluminumbut are not threaded

[trakhak]

I agree with the match porting of the exhaust manifold. I just used my dremel and cleaned up the transition from the billet "flange" to the actual header pipe and noticed a very noticable difference in the acceleration coming out of corners and from a standing start. I am in total agreement that its the details that can get you out front. Peace

[trakhak]

Stelli, you could use the HB shocks but when it came to tuning your car with AE spec sheets or the other guys at the track it would be hard to match up the shock tuning. Ya Know? Peace

[fastharry]

for all you guys with urge to make those associated pipes shine.....theres a produc called Wizards metal polish..it looks like cotton candy is a band aid box......I saw it in a BMW magasine and ordered it.....absolutely first rate.....60,and I'm not lying,60 seconds and you have a shine better than 2 hours with a dremel..


www.wizardsproducts.com

[Stelli]

Hey trakhak, thanx. So they are the same dimensions right?

[us_matrix]

Just wondering what is the gear # combination you guys are running? What would be the best gear # combination going to be in terms of Low/Top end speed?

Thanks

[trakhak]

Stelli, Let me know what the length is on those HB shocks and I will measure my team shocks. Later

[NTC3NUT]

Here's the picture of the manifold mod's Corse-R was talking about. They do work, along with cutting down the manifolds length.

[NTC3NUT]

Here's a photo of the manifold cut down.

[NTC3NUT]

By the way Corse-R, sweet ride! Here's a photo of my racer.

[Stelli]

On tower it sais the HB shocks are 2.25" (58mm)
For the Factory team treaded shocks :1"

[Kazie]

wow that looks awesome! how did you guys port the manifold? dremel.... just sanded it down with a sanding drum?

[lbckevin]

:D I just wanted to know the benefits of the two chamber pipe. I have the stock one and everyone at the track suggests the new 2 chamber? What about the hard coating? Let me know if its worth it to invest the $50 bucks. THanks..

[piccoracer123]

well here it is i love it all titanium and it only waighs 1643g that is under wight for your information acording to roar rules.:D

[piccoracer123]

.

[piccoracer123]

,.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Just wondering what is the gear # combination you guys are running? What would be the best gear # combination going to be in terms of Low/Top end speed?

Depends mainly on your motor and your track layout, but I noticed improved laptimes with the 54/48 spurs and moving between 20/26, 21/27 and 21/26 (this last gear combination is a little tricky to mesh and not supported by the manual, but I tested on my RB and worked good). My 22 and 23T pinions are getting dust on the pit box.

Italian blocks (Novarrosi, JP's, Megas and Sirios...) like to have the 1st gear shorter to provide better acceleration cos they have less low end than other engines. 5 or 6 tooth split may sound too much gearing difference, but works very good.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Kazie
wow that looks awesome! how did you guys port the manifold? dremel.... just sanded it down with a sanding drum?

To remove the lip I used (as many others, a round stone on my dremel), after this, use a polishing (buffing) bonet with polishing compound to give a finer finish and polishing the manifold.

If you cut about 3/8" (9mm) the manifold - as NTC3NUT showed - you increase the top end of the muffler and this makes possible to polish almost all the innards of the manifold with the buffing wheel (beware, during polishing manifold can get too hot). Manifold support wire can be tricky to install, touch a little with a stone the lip that prevents to moving the wire a little further to not strech and break the wire.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by lbckevin
:D I just wanted to know the benefits of the two chamber pipe. I have the stock one and everyone at the track suggests the new 2 chamber? What about the hard coating? Let me know if its worth it to invest the $50 bucks. THanks..

I needed to comply with EFRA rules and got straight to the normal 2 chamber one (was the unique available at the time). Changing to a 2 chamber makes you lose something of that 'motocross' sound, but overall perf. increases (seems weird, but is true).

Gotting normal vs. colored one is a matter of personal prefs.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
By the way Corse-R, sweet ride! Here's a photo of my racer.

Sweet too... I see you're using 30mm rears and the graphite radio plate.

How about the graphite one? it makes really stiff the car (tested a friends car with one and feels much different than the composite one).

About the 30mm rears. Do you needed to crank the pillowballs so much inner to acommodate those 4mm of meat more? Im at 199mm wide.

I'm doing tests with 30mm rears and wondered what shore are using at rear. Testing some Ennetti foams and seemed that I need to go up on the hardness. Now, when using 26mm I need to use 45f 40r or 40f 40r, but testing with 30mm ones needed to have 45f 45r or 40f 42r (42 isn't a standard one, got some 42 shore tyres checking them with a durometer)

[NTC3NUT]

Uh-Oh, Piccoracer has me by 2 whole ounces, time to loose some weight!:) In all seriousness, all our cars should be light out of the box. I keep mine @ 1710 grams, 10 above the limit with a transponder (just as it sits pictured above). It's 100% ROAR legal. I could probably loose alot of weight if I gave up all my pretty blue aluminum, but that's not gonna happen.

Corse-R, I used a fine carbide bit first. If you apply pressure it cuts deep, but if you let it glide along it provides some nice finish work. I then simply polish & buff it to a smooth shinny finish. All with my Dremel (God bless the Dremel!) And yes, it does get HOT!

I also was not impressed with the sound coming from the dual-chamber muffler. I thought there was no way this thing was adding to the performance of the car, but I was mistaken! It's the only one I run now, lots of low end torque, and still has killer top end.

The graphite tray is very stiff, and it looks awesome. I would recommend it to anyone. It's not very expensive either. Once I put it on the car with the rest of the graphite parts, the car was virtually unflexible. Now that I have the GH chassis, I think it would take a brick wall to tweek it.

I run Jaco Nitro Shoes, 45 or 40 fronts depending on the track (28mm I think), and 40 rears (30mm). No matter which fronts I use, the rears always wear faster. I don't recall exactly, but I seam to remember bringing the back in to hit 200mm. I also had to remove a little material from the knuckles in the rear, the wheels rubbed slightly when new.

Wow, long post, hope some of it helps!

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Uh-Oh, Piccoracer has me by 2 whole ounces, time to loose some weight!:) In all seriousness, all our cars should be light out of the box. I keep mine @ 1710 grams, 10 above the limit with a transponder (just as it sits pictured above). It's 100% ROAR legal. I could probably loose alot of weight if I gave up all my pretty blue aluminum, but that's not gonna happen.

NTC3NUT:

My car ready to run (with body, transponder and no fuel) weights 1735 Grams (kitchen scale), maybe is a 'little high', but I have enough margin to lose some weight, I can engage in a crazy war losing weight (graphite parts, titanium pillowballs, changing steel screws on the bulkheads to aluminium ones), changing the pair of 9450 Futaba servos for some 9250 (10 grams less each) a shaving some parts.

Maybe too I can left the failsafe and the electric switch on the pitbot (but I not plan to do, are the best and most importatn 20 grams on the car).

I not did it because I prefeer to weight a little more and being more crash resistant, and the most important of it, where and how high resides the weight. As much low you concentrate your weight less roll on the turns and the more speed across the turn you can get. Weight is not your worst enemy.

Planning to change all four steel pillowballs at the top of the bulkheads, but not the lower...

[Rookie Solara]

I think HPI forum are no longer letting us to talk about any non-HPI car at their forum, well, BAD MOVE.

Anyhow, nice looking NTCs, when I was in HK, I picked up the rear upper arms (titanium) and the shock towers, and they are NOT going to do the alum. upper gear box because it is hard to create and it will be expensive.......also, picked up 4 titanium universal instead of CVT (I hate those CVT).......and I hope I will never lose a dog bone again, will post some pictures later.....last, new powerplant - Nova Rossi RS-12 T5.......definitely not IFMAR/ROAR legal but just want to drop the baddest thing on the NTC3....I still have my Sirio and MT-12 ready to break in for any legal race.

One question, I just got the Dual-chamber pipe......for the pressure line INPUT hole.....all I have to do is tuck in the pressure tube inside...? Period? No L-shape niipple required...? Please advise.....

And also, does any of you guys here did the TEAM ASSOCIATE modification by moving the pressure inserting point like 1/2" closer to the tip of the pipe...? I recalled NTC3NUT asked the team driver at the WORLD and said that way will increase the top-end (or low-end).....I kinda forgot, can you recall the benifit of that MOD again.....?

Thanks for advance.......here is my NTC before the 2.4 hours race a month ago

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/s60/P0003298.jpg

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/s60/P0003284.jpg

[JWF_FRANI]

hey rookie solara just stick the pressure line in and it should
be fine as for moving the pressure line in front it would probably
have to do with tuning issues or triing to get a more consistent
pressure to the tank. as for actual benefits i wouldn't know
because i still run the stock pressure line in the stock location
with no problems i will try to post picks of my car as soon as
i can find my digicam.

[NTC3NUT]

The drivers at the Worlds said the new position provided a constant pressure thru- out the power band (ie:easier to tune, no high speed leaning). They where using 90deg. nipples, but I think that was more of a reliability issue, not a performance issue. They where worried about the pushed in tubing poping out during the hour long main. Here's a photo of Barry's car for you, Enjoy.

[NTC3NUT]

Rookie, Too bad they don't stay that nice for long isn't it? I try to take pictures of my bodies before I slowly destroy them. Here's a typical paint scheme for me, and no, I'm not a big sticker fan.

[Rookie Solara]

Thanks guys........NTC3NUTs, yes, that Volvo body does looks good afterall, and yes, after the 2.4 hours race, it does collected more special paint scheme (Scratches).

OK, if that is the case, I think I will just copy the idea of BARRY and moved the pressure hole up front along with a L-shaped nipple.....again, I too worry about that pressure line will pop out while running.....(also, it does look better that way).

[JWF_FRANI]

nice paint jobs :cool:

[lbckevin]

Hey guys..... Anyone have any pics of Marks' winning NTC3? There were alot of tips to make the car trouble free for the hour long main. Has anyone tried the new MUGEN MR 12 motor. I saw it on ebay and wanted your input. Thanks...:cool:

[jnegrx]

In the AE site there are a couple of pics.

[NTC3NUT]

I have a few photos of Mark's car at home. I'm at work now, I'll post them tomorrow for you.

[fastharry]

the new issue of extreme has his car with all the tips..........

[CHUCKMANDO]

I do not post often, since this is my first year racing, I try to listen more . I have an Rb 3port in my NTC3. My driveing is to the point where I am competitve with the better racers where I race in bklyn. I would like to get together on a weekend, since you are in NJ. I live in staten island. The RB rocks an has at least 4 gallons through it.
You can e-mail me if you like at chuckmando@yahoo.com I am always into learning and love this new found hobby

[piccoracer123]

i raced in vegis in 1/8 scale but i watch barry race and i thought his car ran elexent the xp motor riped. it was i have to say the fatest motor out there

[Pro3/nmt105]

Just curious does the ntc3 kit come with the blue driveshaft? it seems everyone has it and it seems pointless to buy just for the looks unless it has a performance effect too.

[NTC3NUT]

I was suprised to see Associated running Piccos at the Worlds. One of the Team drivers I talked to said it was because they couldn't get their hands on the O'Donnell RB's they usually run in time for the race. I tell you, I would never have considered a Picco before the Worlds (diehard NovaRossi fan), but if Barry can TQ with one, it's ok by me. I think I recall Josh Cuyrl having the top speed award with a Sirio .12.

[NTC3NUT]

It doesn't come with the blue shaft out of the box. Everyone has it because it's blue, and it cost like $8..

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Just curious does the ntc3 kit come with the blue driveshaft? it seems everyone has it and it seems pointless to buy just for the looks unless it has a performance effect too.

I bent the original one on a bad crash and needed to replace and put the blue ones (the unique I found at my LHS), I weighted all two and the weight difference is negligible, in my case wasn't a performance issue.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
I was suprised to see Associated running Piccos at the Worlds. One of the Team drivers I talked to said it was because they couldn't get their hands on the O'Donnell RB's they usually run in time for the race. I tell you, I would never have considered a Picco before the Worlds (diehard NovaRossi fan), but if Barry can TQ with one, it's ok by me. I think I recall Josh Cuyrl having the top speed award with a Sirio .12.

Piccos were better the last model (the RR one), the actual XP, for me and b/c the problems caused to some track buddies aren't the best option to have (they had the bad habit of flameout on the worst moment and very hard of starting when warmed).

One of my friends sent the Picco to the trashcan and switched to Sirio and is very pleased with it.

I did as mechanic for a friend at last Euros this summer and with an XP .21 run into continous problems of carb tunning, flameouts, unstable idle and other nasty horror stories. Solved completely putting an Nova .21 R3....

[Pro3/nmt105]

Corse-R how do u like ure sirio. Im getting a ntc3 and im considering getting it. is it reliable? and do u have any idea how long the pisten and sleave last? this will be my 3rd engine so i dont want anything too hard to tune.

Im considering getting a rb x12, Mugen MT12, or a sirio. Which of these are best for reliability, life, and power? I was also considering a OS 12tr but i can get the other engines cheaper so it seems like it would be pointless to go with it. I would appriciate any advice.

Thanx

[JWF_FRANI]

did you guys notice but in the close up of mark pavidis carburator
they were showing an os carb but from the picture of the car
the car had a novarossi. i wonder why they didn't take a close
up of the actual carb on the car.

[speedydave]

That kinda looks like a Picco to me...

I would think Mark uses an O.S. carb because they hold a tune much better than most engines, and they are very easy to tune.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Corse-R how do u like ure sirio. Im getting a ntc3 and im considering getting it. is it reliable? and do u have any idea how long the pisten and sleave last? this will be my 3rd engine so i dont want anything too hard to tune.

Sirio .12 is a good motor, still lean-in, but their perf is really good by the moment, motor is really cheap and very reliable. I have a .21 on-road one with more than 7 liters of fuel thru it and is working like a clock.

All the engines you said a really good motors, very reliable and you shouldn't be dissapointed with any of them. Carb tunning seemed to me very easy (was easy to tune for me).

[NTC3NUT]

I can see in my Worlds photos that Barry was running the"RR" version. I have a few photos of Mark working on his car, but the engine is in his hand, and can't be seen. I have a fellow racer that purchased a Trinity version of the Picco early this season, and ended up tossing it in the trash. Exactly the problems Corse-R described, flame outs, impossible to start, carb wouldn't hold a tune, ect..

[NTC3NUT]

Here's a photo where Marks engine is fairly visable. It looks like a Picco, but I'm sure he ran the Main with his RB.

[Corse-R]

Today I ended the break in and put some 'pressure' to the Sirio and go for serious hot laps today.

I used a high quality 16% nitro custom blended from a good friend at their LHS. Composition remains secret for me, but the oil percentage is 10%.

Used the 21/27 with 54/48 spurs. The speed of those little 'black headed beast' is simple terrific, lost some of their low-end rip (normal, checked with other .12 sirio owners) for a more convincing high-rpm thrilling sound. The main straight at my track is >175Ft long. The end of straigh speed was simply incredible and needed to yank a lot of brakes to calm the braves.

Before this I needed to play some with the adjustments (testing plugs and carb settings). Best resust were kept with Novarrosi No.5 1/4" UNF plug. For break-in I got good results with Novarrosi No.6 plug.

Air temp was about 19 - 20º C so was easy for the engine.

Realized some facts: This engine loves the optional harder clutch springs, and loves to get the 2 speed gearbox with a setup on where the 2 speed engages at med-high speeds (don't hold short shifting). This is due because seems that their powerband is located thru the high rpms.

Lap times were quite similar to my JP RS12, so it's a bargain of engine with lots of potential (uhmmmm, planning to got a second .12 and do some porting to the sleeve and see if improves). :D

Definitely this engine is a MT12 and similar killer.

P.S: Anyone wants an RB X12 and a JP RS12? :D :D :D

[Corse-R]

Hi all....

Looking in detail Mark Pavidis photo I noticed at the top of the windhield something 'strange'....

What is that TL on the top of the windshield????

[NTC3NUT]

I think it might be a big "P", for Protoform (body).???

[piccoracer123]

hey did you guys change you diferenchels i was thinking abought putting a solid rear and a front one way in my car?

[FrankyRizzo]

The front one way yoko is great. Stick to the diff in the rear. The spool is for only extreme traction. Any less sucks.

[Kazie]

what size nitro shoes do you guys use? 28mm?

[MAXIMUS95GST]

Which car is better the NTC3 RTR or a kit version....

[NTC3NUT]

I found the one-way performance to be awesome, but you muat use the Yokomo. The solid axle I was a little less happy with. I run my car with 20/26 gearing, and a JP moddified engine, the solid axle made it a little unstable coming out of turns. It was fun to drive , just not very productive. I believe the Nitro Shoes I use are 28mm front, 30mm rear.

[Corse-R]

MAXIMUS95GST:

Go straight for the TC3 Kit if you have all or almost all the additional gear needed for it (engine, radio, starter box, etc...). Assembly is nothing complicated and for everyone can be possible to assemble (the main prove is that a 13 years old cousin 'helped' me to assemble the car).

If this car should be your first nitro kit (or your first kit) the RTR is a wise option, comes with all, but you find that the first hop up you bolt to your car is the 2 speed tranny. Give us more details about.

NTC3NUT:

I check the tyres sizes, if you run Nitroshoes, the fronts are 26mm and the rears 30mm (I don't know if the offset is 0, but seems a lot).

Off-Topic mode on:

RB has launched a new motor (1700-215), comes with ported sleeve, 'Biturbo' crank, ported and polished carb. If you read the text, seems that is the base of the motors used by some AE guys at the worlds.

Caution: the motor NOT complies with the new EFRA rules for 200 touring car class. But seems that for ROAR/NORRCA races is fine, maybe worth a look to it.

http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/engines2.11/1700-000215.htm

Off-Topic mode off:

[piccoracer123]

ok thanks guys:D

[Pro3/nmt105]

I think the Rody modified x12s gonna be very expensive the modified x15 is 400bux about twice the price of the regular one

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I think the Rody modified x12s gonna be very expensive the modified x15 is 400bux about twice the price of the regular one

Really I don't know, I bet for a more competitive priced engine, maybe between 180 - 225 US$. RB engines are quite competitive on their price.

I have the 067/R crank (the 'BiTurbo' one) on order to fit to my X12 (210 model), who has 'suffered' my mighty dremel (based on a 'Smeltz' X12 photo I got from other forum - I'll attach for all those braves) and a brand new turbo button. Maybe with this 'wrenching' I convert the X12 on a terrible gargantua.

I attach the example I'm basing on. For more information about this beauty, check the Smeltz thread at rctech.net

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

thats a sweet motor. how did u get teh crank so shiney? also were can i get a piston and sleve for a x12

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR
thats a sweet motor. how did u get teh crank so shiney? also were can i get a piston and sleve for a x12

I repeat.... the work that appears on the photo isn't mine, is made by Smeltz. I'm doing one based on the photo, just for testing and fun (a friend gave me an sleeve and piston with only 1 1/2 hours of use).

You can achieve this kind of shiney with your 'best friend' Buffing tool and polishing compound from dremel. Gotting spare parts for an RB shouldn't be a problem, just try stomer hobbies (one of my favourites, the other is speedtech R/C). If you want something like the photo, talk with Smeltz, e-mail addres is smeltzracing@netscape.net

[Pro3/nmt105]

i looked on stomer hobbies and speed tech and i dont see any rb parts or even rbs

[Temjin006]

Is the foam bumper from Trinity the same size as the AE? i want to use it with the RPM bumper.

[lbckevin]

Timjin,

The Trinity blue bumper is larger than the stock Associated one and may require some trimming or cutting, depending on the body you run. The stock plastic bumper piece ( underneath the foam one) will stick out a little, you will have to trim it too. If you like it go for it .....:)

[Kevin Boyle]

NTC3NUT

You have mail, I know it is early but any ideas on the Gas Nats. for 2003??? I am there and I do not care were it is. I have all summer to get ready and we have a new track that is getting better with every weekend. Also any info on the folder and video????

Kevin

[NTC3NUT]

Believe it or not, our club is submitting a bid for the 1/10 scale gas nationals for next year. It may end up being in my backyard! I'll let you guys know as soon as it's official.

[Kazie]

Hey guys, Im a bit frustrated at my car..it just doesnt corner well..using those tires that came with the kit.. Well Im just driving my car in parking lots, driving around cones and it just doesnt want to corner well. Im using the air 94357 servo a .07 servo. the car just seems to be unresponsive compared to my tc3. It just wont turn!! massive understeer, the car just wants to keep going forward. I was thinking if getting foams would stick the car to the ground. The only way i can turn the way i want is if i slow to the point where the car is almost not moving.. what do you guys think? i went to associateds site and replicated a barry baker setup..

[NTC3NUT]

Which of Barry's set-ups are you using? I would think most of his stuff is for a prepared surface, it would'nt work in a dusty/dirty parking lot. Let us know what you've got and we can help.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Kazie
Hey guys, Im a bit frustrated at my car..it just doesnt corner well..using those tires that came with the kit.. Well Im just driving my car in parking lots, driving around cones and it just doesnt want to corner well.
...
It just wont turn!! massive understeer, the car just wants to keep going forward. I was thinking if getting foams would stick the car to the ground.
...
i went to associateds site and replicated a barry baker setup..

This is your main problem: complete incorrectly setup of the car. You're using a setup for foams on a high speed - high traction setup on your car, with rubber tyres on a parking lot. Is completely understandable that your car won't turn and you being frustrated.

Your option about foams is all depending on your surface: if is dusty, better you stick with rubbers, if is clean from dust, pebbles and nasty things you can encounter on a parking (chewing gum and other messy things) go for foams.

A good setup for rubbers is something like this.

Front:
50 wt oil with #3 piston and red or copper spring.
Upper shock mount: Outer hole.
Lower shock mount: Outer hole.
Roll bar: 0 degress or disconnected.
Caster: 9 degrees.
Camber: 2 degrees.
Upper A-arm: Inner position (longer link).
Toe-in: 0 degrees or maybe 0.5 degrees toe-out.
Ground clearance: 5mm.

Rear:
50 wt oil with #2 piston and gold spring.
Upper shock mount: Middle hole.
Lower shock mount: Outer hole.
Camber: 1 degree.
Toe-in: 2.5 degree.
Upper A-arm: Outer position (shorter link).
Ground clearance: 5.5mm

Other hints:
- Send to trashcan the tyres that came from the box, mine never got mounted and get some real rubber tyres (Sorex 32 or 36 depending track temp are one of the best).
- You can get a more agile car on low traction conditions narrowing the rear end of the car to help to rotate on the turns (something about 196 or 194 mm is the max you can narrow).
- If need more turn enter, try to go about 3 degree camber on front, going to 6º camber should help too.
- If all fails, return to rubber setup from manual and experiment with it, is a decent setup.

- If after all you continue with a complete lack of steering maybe you got a 'digital problem' on the throttle finger :D (don't worry, all suffered from this), try to leverage the pressure on it and see if improves, understeering in almost all cases is due to an excessive speed entering the turns.

[Kazie]

ahh! wow! lol, acctually ive only been running in parking lots to get used to running a nitro. i usually run my tc3 at races, just wanted to try out the nitro tc3 since the tc3 was so awesome : )
anyways. Im going to try to race with the ntc3. Heres my current setup

Front
caster 9 degrees
camber 2 degrees
droop 4
yellow spring
60wt
piston 3
tower inner hole
camber inner hole
arm outer hole

Rear
camber 3 degrees
toe-in 2 degrees
droop 4
red spring
40wt
piston 3
tower middle hole
camber inner hole
arm outer hole

[veesix]

Does anyone know what the factory settings for the low and high end needles on a Mugen MT12? I though someone had posted them on this thread once but I’ll be darned if I can find it now!

[coastal-tony]

Kazie
Your problem may be the servo saver spring & how tight the screw is. You say the car is not turning? Try (with the engine not running) holding the front wheels in place, while turning the steering wheel on your radio. If you turn the wheel on your radio, and you can keep the front wheels straight, your servo saver is too loose. Lots of people changed to a heavier spring, or used a shorter screw, to firm up this slipping affect.

[fastharry]

one of the biggest improvements on my car was the tires...I remember when the car first came out....I tried it in a parking lot in back of my job..it was about 60 degrees outside..I noticed the car didn't turn(BTW,I was running the exact rubber tire set-up)..as sson as I out on a set of slicks,instant turn..likes it so much,I boughrt another teh same day

after running the car for six months on a blown off untreated track,I ffel the same way..except for one thing....not only did tires make adiffence,learning to drive the car did also..with no drag,the car,even on a 15 ft infield strait,is still going faster thgan a typical belt car..learning to brake,and power around a corner is crucial with this car...you miss a braking point,and it swings wide...big time...

all in all...the best cat I own...and I own a implulse,reflex,HPI SS,3 racer2's....and evrything from a veteq to a kanai..

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by coastal-tony
Kazie
Your problem may be the servo saver spring & how tight the screw is. You say the car is not turning? Try (with the engine not running) holding the front wheels in place, while turning the steering wheel on your radio. If you turn the wheel on your radio, and you can keep the front wheels straight, your servo saver is too loose. Lots of people changed to a heavier spring, or used a shorter screw, to firm up this slipping affect.

Sheesh! I forgotten this 'those damn spring'..... Kazie: If you haven't changed the stock servo saver spring, do it ASAP. Use the #6587 part (is a small bag with a stiffer spring (from B3's slipper clutch).

Steering is much improved with this spring installed.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by veesix
Does anyone know what the factory settings for the low and high end needles on a Mugen MT12? I though someone had posted them on this thread once but I’ll be darned if I can find it now!

I did that couple months ago at HPI forum......not sure I did that here or not, but I will post them up when I get home.

I think top needle is 3.5 turns from close........and low-end is 2.5 turns from close.......always go RICH and start turning (leaning)the HIGH SPEED NEEDLE first after the engine started.

[Distro]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Sheesh! I forgotten this 'those damn spring'..... Kazie: If you haven't changed the stock servo saver spring, do it ASAP. Use the #6587 part (is a small bag with a stiffer spring (from B3's slipper clutch).

Steering is much improved with this spring installed.

I tightened it down to what i thought was good then grided the top of the screw off so it wouldn't rub against the drive cup.

[veesix]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I did that couple months ago at HPI forum......not sure I did that here or not, but I will post them up when I get home.

I think top needle is 3.5 turns from close........and low-end is 2.5 turns from close.......always go RICH and start turning (leaning)the HIGH SPEED NEEDLE first after the engine started.

Thanks!

[Kazie]

I tried turning the wheels and holding it at the same time, i indeed can stop the wheels from turning and have the radio wheel turned over. I guess im going to go ahead and purchase #6587 and give it a try. So i use # 6587 to replace #3929? also would i tighten the screw until the screw end is even with the top still? or would i tighten less?

[coastal-tony]

Kazie
If your LHS don't have the spring in stock, pull off the drive shaft, loosen up the front shock tower, fully screw in the screw from the bottom, and grind off the threads, then loosen it up a bit. You need to take off around 3/16", so the steering rack don't hit the front drive cup

[Distro]

Arg i can't really explain how you set it, just screw the screw in to the point where the servo saver part only moves when the servo is pushing on the swing rack when the rack is fully to one side. The servo saver part shouldn't move when the rack is moving, but when its fully locked in to one side the servo saver should become active instantly. This is where you want it set at so it will do its job. Once you have it set to this you can grind down the screw so it won't rub against the drive cup.

[Kazie]

If i change the spring to #6587 then i shouldnt have to screw the screw in to the point that i need to cut it off right?

[CHUCKMANDO]

Well I was having a good day racing. Then all the regulars with their 1/8's came. I leaned out my trusty RB a bit to give me a little added boost. Well all was going well. If I drove perfect (for me anyway) laps, I was able to stay with them for a while anyway. Once I held the lead for about 3 laps. But they are just too fast and to big to play with. I didn't know it at the time, but I lost a screw in the steering rack. I lost alot of my steering, but instead of pitting, I tried to handle it on the track. Spun out right before a turn. Well t-boned from a vector is not a good thing for the tc3. Pipe is shot and I am taking the rest apart now.
If noone has tried the speedmind foams, you might to. They handle well and I am getting them for about 14 a pair from my lhs.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Distro
I tightened it down to what i thought was good then grided the top of the screw off so it wouldn't rub against the drive cup.

The main problem resides in that the stock spring isn't enough tight to withstand the great forces that do foam tyres. If you crank down the screw and lock full compressed the stock spring, the servo saver don't work.

Get another screw like one that says the manual and got the 6587 bag (their price should be about 1.20 or 1.50 US$, very cheap). Substitute the spring and look and feel the difference of the servo saver.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Kazie
If i change the spring to #6587 then i shouldnt have to screw the screw in to the point that i need to cut it off right?

Nope kazie, don't need to swap screw sizes (Stick with the size stated in the manual). The added tension of the spring makes a superb job on the servo saver.

[Kazie]

ahh! alright awesome!
also i was wondering... what shore would you reccomend i try for my first pair of foams..i think im going to try jaco foams..thanks!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Kazie
ahh! alright awesome!
also i was wondering... what shore would you reccomend i try for my first pair of foams..i think im going to try jaco foams..thanks!

I hope you meant "Nitro Shoes".....you can start with 40 front and 37 rear if the track is cold and dirty.....otherwise, step up one level to 42 front and 40 rear...

Make sure to get narrow front and wide rear....I think they are 26 (or 28mm) front and 30mm rear.

[CHUCKMANDO]

Kazie,
Besides the Nitro shoes, you can try speedminds. I ran 40shore in front 26mm and 35 shore 30 mm in te rear. Worked well and great for the money. Very comparable to the shoes. Also it you want better lasting foams, you may want to try Yok's. I had plenty of luck with hard 26 mm on the the front, and firm 32mm on the rear. The yok's were used in slightly warmer weather. Since we are having a problem getting them locally, I went to the shoes and more recently to the speedminds.

[Rookie Solara]

Beside......I use my Serpent PRO foams, works real good....if the weather is warmer and high trackion.....use harder compound, otherwise, you might need a set of foams per race day.

[Temjin006]

Can anyone here get a copy of the installation sheet for the front blade sway bar.

[Distro]

Speedmind foams are great, the only bad thing to them is their shore varies set to set, but still provide great grip. They also wear down slower then GRP rubber tires. Best tires though that i have seen for grip and wear are those project zac tires that kawahara distributes.

[Kazie]

o ya? i guess everyone has their own preference for foams, i know for rubber the majority of the people like sorex...what foams do you guys race with? i would like a good grip and wear..even tho that combination is much like a catch 22, what about width? just the 26 and 30 combo?

[speedyOB-4]

I'd like to know why you would want a harder front than rear tire. The only reason I could think of, is that the front wear faster because of the constant turning and braking. I'm having understeering problems. I was running Jaco red up front and Jaco double purple in the rear both 24mm. I was racing on a tight track, but the other cars were making real tight turns. I was making big wide turns. Why is this? I just bought some Elligi 37 shore and 40 shore for my car. Except the 37 shore 26mm tires are in the front and the 40 mm 40 shore tires and in the back. Is this going to work? Any info would be helpful, I'm new to foams(been racing rubber tires for 6 years).
Thanks!

[us_matrix]

I just received the front blade roll bar but have a question what should i set for FOAM tire?
It said horizontal (flat sides) is the softest setting and Vertical side is stiffest setting, but i am kind of confuse.... Can someone post a pic of how to set it up.

Thanks.

[NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR]

hey i am going to race this weekend after i had the same sterring problem as CHUCKMANDO. i was woudnering the diff thrust spring is it nessary and is it the same spring as is on the rc10gt slipper? and if not wats the part #? also is a one way worth it?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by speedyOB-4
I'd like to know why you would want a harder front than rear tire. The only reason I could think of, is that the front wear faster because of the constant turning and braking. I'm having understeering problems. I was running Jaco red up front and Jaco double purple in the rear both 24mm. I was racing on a tight track, but the other cars were making real tight turns. I was making big wide turns. Why is this?

Sorry for this 'long' post, but think that I need to explain something about 'foam tyres' theory.

All foam tyres aren't created equal. Mainly there are two big types: Normal compound and '***' type compound, all of two are created from rubber, but the construction differ.

*** compounds are developed mainly for front tyres, their different pore makes good steering capabilities and lesser traction, seeing paired to a normal foam looks different (their pore is slightly elongated) and is more rough.

The normal compound is good for rear axle, and makes the most of traction but less directional.

This is the cause sometimes we find a 40 degrees front and a 40 degrees rear and don't seem the same tyre, *** compounds are slightly stiffer than normal.

All foam tyres are measured basically by their hardness on shore degrees, as it rises the number (the larger) more harder is the tyre. The correct way of talking about foams is by their shore hardness, not by the name has put the manufacturer (green, blue, magenta, purple, double purple, orange...) because there's no a standard about the meaning of each colour to their hardness.

About how to choose some compound to fit in your car is something tricky. First of all you need to see the track. Is their surface slick or abrasive? If it's slick, maybe is low traction.

One time you saw the surface and know something about the relative traction, you need to pay attention about the time who need to 'survive' your tyre set: maybe a mere 5 minutes or you need to do a complete 45 minute mains? As much tyre longetivity, the more hardness you need.

Depending your setup you may need to choose some compounds for the front and the rear. Rule of thumb. Put tyres as hard as you can control the car, maybe your best combination can be a 42 front and 37 rear and for others can be 45 front and 40 rear.

Some people say if you have more than 5 shore degrees of difference between front and rear, your car hasn't correctly set-up.

Why put a harder tyre on front? Because it has the traction and steering, do lots of tyre scrubbing and wears faster and because almost all actual cars have lots of steering, is a way to reduce their steering response and make the car more docile to drive.

Caution: going to a too soft tyre combination is worse. Too much grip, too much steering and the car is twitchy to drive (don't know to explain, but you see it when you drive it).

Depending of the width: As wider is a tyre, more harder should be. A rule who said me a friend for switching from 26 to 30mm rears is to go up a hardness (from 37 to 40, from 40 to 42 and so on).

The best I can suggest is to buy some sets and try on your track, maybe a good starting point should be buying 2 hardness of fronts (40 and 42) and three sets of rears (37, 40 & 42) and test what you prefeer, don't worry if you have sets with little use, when not in use put them on a airtight bag and place on a dark, fresh and dry place. You may end using all (or maybe almost all of them).

When I go to race, I keep the box where my car come with the tyres, this is the list of compound I keep with me at every race:

Fronts:
45 shore - 1 set
42 shore - 2 sets
40 shore - 2 sets
37 shore - 1 set

Rears (26mm):
42 shore - 2 sets
40 shore - 3 sets
37 shore - 1 set
35 shore - 1 set

And I use and when I worn them I buy to have ever a set ready to be used. From this list maybe you can remove the softer compounds (very rare to be needed to use) - 37 front and 35 rear, but keep the rest as a ballpark if you're going to a track who isn't known.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NiTrO_Ob4_RaCeR
hey i am going to race this weekend after i had the same sterring problem as CHUCKMANDO. i was woudnering the diff thrust spring is it nessary and is it the same spring as is on the rc10gt slipper? and if not wats the part #? also is a one way worth it?

The thrust diff spring is vital to your differential, keep in mind that is the responsible of keeping togheter the diff rings running to the diff balls. According to my NTC3 manual (sorry I don't have GT manual) diff thrust spring is #6582, maybe can fit, but I haven't tested, the right spring for the servo saver is #6587 part.

One way worth if on your track you have large sweeping turns and plenty of grip, if not is a pain in the ... . Maybe one track buddy let test a one way and check if it worth.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by us_matrix
I just received the front blade roll bar but have a question what should i set for FOAM tire?
It said horizontal (flat sides) is the softest setting and Vertical side is stiffest setting, but i am kind of confuse.... Can someone post a pic of how to set it up.

Installation of the blade roll bar shouldn't be a problem, the adjustment is quite simple: if you need more anti roll, raise the angle. About setting up the bar, should be as the track conditions need, if the track has a lot of grip, maybe bigger angle should be needed, sometimes I run at 0º. If you haven't did, get the aluminium braces for the roll bar, makes all more rigid and constant working (plastic ones flex a lot, specially when yanked at high angles).

[Distro]

Originally posted by Kazie
o ya? i guess everyone has their own preference for foams, i know for rubber the majority of the people like sorex...what foams do you guys race with? i would like a good grip and wear..even tho that combination is much like a catch 22, what about width? just the 26 and 30 combo?

Its best to run 28s up front and 30s in the rear, car will handle the best with this combo.

[speedyOB-4]

thanks corse-r, i needed that long description to fully understand what i'm doing.

[FrankyRizzo]

Corse-R


Nice write up. Couldn't of said it better myself.

[Rookie Solara]

Some eye candy I picked up from HK........but this time, I think the rear upper arms DOES help a lot when race......rock solid.
I will install the alloy shock towers too, but it will turn my NTC3 into "RICE" mobile....:D

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm01.jpg

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm02.jpg

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm03.jpg

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm04.jpg

I also got myself 4 titanium universals of the NTC instead of those POS CVT......no more losing screws and CVT broken apart on hard long hours racing.......

Rookie Solara

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
4 titanium universals of the NTC instead of those POS CVT......no more losing screws and CVT broken apart on hard long hours racing.......

Ahem!....

Rookie, if you want I have some 1/5 bodyshell clips (if the ones you put on your car aren't enough big) I can pass to you if want. :D

Just a question... why the shock towers are milled? you're weakening them...

Massive and pretty A-arms BTW.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Ahem!....

Rookie, if you want I have some 1/5 bodyshell clips (if the ones you put on your car aren't enough big) I can pass to you if want. :D

Just a question... why the shock towers are milled? you're weakening them...

Massive and pretty A-arms BTW.

Ha ha, 1/5th..? Come on, get in the program, I have 4 1/1 scale SPARCO BTCC touring car hood pins ready to install......talk about REAL DEAL......

Yes, I milled the shock towers because I replaced all 6 standard screws that mounted the towers to the upper diff case with SIX 3mm Metric screws (see pic)......in order for me to ANCHER those bigger, fatter screws DEEPER, I have to flatten out the top part of both shock towers.....and I have to create a flat surface so those eye candy washer can sit flat on it........since then, I never have those typical NTC3 tower got ripped off from the diff case problem.....but I already got 2 alloy shock tower from GPM, they will be installed there soon.

I still think those standard screw with cheap plastic are the biggest mistake of NTC3.

As much as I hate those blue alloy, those upper mounts does reinforced the impact from the pivot balls alot, at least I never got problem stripping the plastic upper arms after touching the wall or bumped by others....alloy just stay strong, but again, it is not BENT proof......

[johnnybp7]

[i]
I also got myself 4 titanium universals of the NTC instead of those POS CVT......no more losing screws and CVT broken apart on hard long hours racing....... [/B]

What company makes thoses titanium universals that you have on your NTC3?

[Pro3/nmt105]

who makes the graphite upper deck? is it available at tower hobbies? and does anybody know if the associated carbon parts are any good? i was thing about getting the full set when i get a ntc3 so i can just build it with them.

[Rookie Solara]

Titanium Universals - GPM from Hong Kong

Carbon upper deck......Associate, cheap, very cheap.

Carbon kits, I think it is better then the plastic if you can afford $50 for the whole kit, it is not a bad idea.

www.rcboyz.com got them all. (no, not the universals)

[barok1]

ROOKIE SOLARA...
pls post the pic of ur car with the throttle linkage showing. thnx. im new to this hobby and i also have parts from GPM. ill post it when im done putting them into my NTC3.

BTW anybody knows why my NTC3 w/ OS12TR stops when i ran it at full throttle?

[NTC3NUT]

I had almost all the GPM & GH parts for a "show" car I was going to put together, decided later not to. I did keep the GH chassis & adj. handle though. I think the GH stuff is a little better quality than the GPM stuff. If you want titanium CVD's or universals, Titanium Racing has them also.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
I had almost all the GPM & GH parts for a "show" car I was going to put together, decided later not to. I did keep the GH chassis & adj. handle though. I think the GH stuff is a little better quality than the GPM stuff. If you want titanium CVD's or universals, Titanium Racing has them also.

Hmmmm, NTC3NUT....nice collection, but again, nice COLLECTION only....I am from HK, to be honest, GPM are definitely NOT a high quality kind of products, so I would keep them the absolute minimum of the GPM items on the NTC3......I only have the front and rear upper arms (to re-inforce the weak part of the Associated plastic problem) and the alloy shock towers........which I am not sure that is necessary....if not, I can always ebay them and make some money of it.

The universal are probably one of the good thing that GPM does, afterall, how bad can it goes...it either works or not, but for other GPM parts....typical problem is most of the holes, opening and fitting are not perfect fit, those are the typical GPM problem that ppl had.

BTW, did you ordered your 3PK from Hong Kong yet...? (I saw your post on Rc-Tech) I just ordered mine (40 mhz again) yesterday, can't wait to hold that sucker........

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by barok1
ROOKIE SOLARA...
pls post the pic of ur car with the throttle linkage showing. thnx. im new to this hobby and i also have parts from GPM. ill post it when im done putting them into my NTC3.

BTW anybody knows why my NTC3 w/ OS12TR stops when i ran it at full throttle?

I think picture #3 got a good look of my throttle linkage....my set up is no special, exactly like the manuel said, and I believe that is the only way to get that work if you have a slide carb.

There are several reason your car will shut down while WOT....(1) Too rich (2) Too lean (3) I think that is the case, your linkage and servo setting are TOO FAR.....it pull the carb too much then it DRAW the BRAKE of your car.....like WOT and BRAKE at the same time....that will shut down the engine.....(4) check your idle setting as well.

If possible I will post a better picture of the throttle linkage.

[FrankyRizzo]

I bought some Ti pillow balls from Titanium racing and 2 out of 8 were from another kit altogether. Their customer service sucks and the pillow balls actually bent faster than the stock ones.

[speedyOB-4]

If I'm having understeering problems, do I want more traction in the front, or less traction in the back? If anyone has a well handling car with a tight turning radius, please post a pick of your steering setup or give a detailed description. Thanks!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by speedyOB-4
If I'm having understeering problems, do I want more traction in the front, or less traction in the back? If anyone has a well handling car with a tight turning radius, please post a pick of your steering setup or give a detailed description. Thanks!

Understeering = not enough steering.

Solution...too many, softer front tire (like 37 shores foam)...lighter oil, softer spring, bigger holes @ damper (faster travel)....etc

concentrate on the front part of the car.

[ProRacer03]

I was wondering if any of you guys knew what kind of screws and how many are used in the ntc3. Thanks :)

[Unregistered]

I'm running medium compound Medial Pro tires, stock rubber tire setup. I can take a left turn at high speed & it handles great, but a right turn at anything faster than walking speed causes the car to spin out. What should I check first? http://villagephotos.com/extern/1006278.jpg

http://villagephotos.com/extern/1006279.jpg

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by speedyOB-4
If I'm having understeering problems, do I want more traction in the front, or less traction in the back? If anyone has a well handling car with a tight turning radius, please post a pick of your steering setup or give a detailed description. Thanks!

Uhm.... can be several problems that way to understeering. Let's check to more simple to more complicated.

- Not enought steering travel, check it and if your wheels steer less than 16º, increase the travel (max should be about 20 - 22º throw depending track layouts). Measure it on a Hudy/Integy/...
- Too hard foams at the front or too soft foams at the rear, change hardness and check
- Track conditions not adequate to your setup. Sometimes at the start of practice, the track is cold, with dust or maybe moist (this is inevitable and you need to workaround to this) I put a setup at the end of the post adequate to this conditions - my start-up setup.
- Too much grip on the rear, if you previously changed foams with not success, install rear anti roll bar at the rear and left the front at 0º with the original foams and test it.

My start-up setup
Front:
- 50wt oil w/ #3 piston and red spring.
- Shock on the middle hole (upper side).
- Shock on the outer hole (lower side).
- Upper A-arm on the inner hole (longer).
- Caster at 9º (one shim at each end).
- Camber at 2º.
- 0.5º toe out at each wheel (1 degree in total).
- Adjust your precharge springs and droop to get 4.5mm ground clearance.
- Anti roll bar at 0º.

Rear:
- 50wt oil w/ #2 piston and cooper spring.
- Shock on the middle hole (upper side).
- Shock on the outer hole (lower side).
- Upper A-arm on the inner hole (longer).
- Camber at 3º.
- 2.5 toe-in.
- Adjust your precharge springs and droop to get 5mm ground clearance.

Comments. With this setup, the car can be not enough fast, but should be docile to drive. If need more steering, several things can be done in this order to increase steering.

- Switch to 6 degree caster (2 shims at the rear of the front A-arm).
- Switch to a 60wt oil in front.
- Install on the outer upper holes the front shocks (more vertical).
- Increase the toe-out at the front.
- Install the rear anti roll bar (this bar is 'slightly' adjustable, i'll tell you how to on a later messsage).
- Switch to a harder foam at the rear or install a 26mm wide with the same hardness at the rear (maybe you have too much grip at rear with 30mm ones).

BTW: I suppose that you've changed the stock servo saver spring for a harder one... :D

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Unregistered
I'm running medium compound Medial Pro tires, stock rubber tire setup. I can take a left turn at high speed & it handles great, but a right turn at anything faster than walking speed causes the car to spin out. What should I check first?

First of all, change those Medial Pro IAS tyres on your pitbox and swap for some more grippier (have you tried foams?). Sometimes we use them (the soft ones when the track is moist.

For the photos I suppose that you've the stock setup for rubber and you're running a Group C body (very bad combination, my friend).

First of all check that all camber and toe-in of the wheels are ok and you don't have a wheel with more toe-in (very possible if you're suffering spin-outs).

Put the rear upper A-arm at the outer hole (less stability, more grip).

You don't put much info about your track, check and say us the results.

BTW: You're using the 'old' tank (as I still use). Any problems with it?

[Corse-R]

For those interested on knowing how a wire anti roll bar can be adjusted, fire your browsers to http://www.competitionx.com select the 'Tunning Guide' and in the A letter you can find a link named Anti Roll Bars.

Is the site of Tony Phalen (Associated official driver and a great guy). May I can recommend to have a sneak peek of the complete tunning guide.

[CHUCKMANDO]

Corse-R,
I agree. Comp-X is one of the sites I go to for car tuning. Great site.

[NTC3NUT]

Rookie, I got all those parts on a store demo I bought off Ebay. I kept the GH chassis & adj. handle, then resold the rest. I got $250. for what's in the above picture. I haven't ordered my 3PK yet, but soon I hope. Right now I'm spending on my FT/TC3, lots of battaries & motors (price on a new JP engine doesn't look too bad now).

[NTC3NUT]

Here's a picture of my real "collection". You may have seen it before on this site, or the RC Tech site.

[Distro]

The 3PK going to be any good? I know its suposidly faster but does it offer anything over the m8?

[NTC3NUT]

I'm not sure, but you can't beat their price. Almost as cheep as my M8, but its PCM, and it looks sooooo cool!

[Distro]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Uhm.... can be several problems that way to understeering. Let's check to more simple to more complicated.

- Not enought steering travel, check it and if your wheels steer less than 16º, increase the travel (max should be about 20 - 22º throw depending track layouts). Measure it on a Hudy/Integy/...
- Too hard foams at the front or too soft foams at the rear, change hardness and check
- Track conditions not adequate to your setup. Sometimes at the start of practice, the track is cold, with dust or maybe moist (this is inevitable and you need to workaround to this) I put a setup at the end of the post adequate to this conditions - my start-up setup.
- Too much grip on the rear, if you previously changed foams with not success, install rear anti roll bar at the rear and left the front at 0º with the original foams and test it.

My start-up setup
Front:
- 50wt oil w/ #3 piston and red spring.
- Shock on the middle hole (upper side).
- Shock on the outer hole (lower side).
- Upper A-arm on the inner hole (longer).
- Caster at 9º (one shim at each end).
- Camber at 2º.
- 0.5º toe out at each wheel (1 degree in total).
- Adjust your precharge springs and droop to get 4.5mm ground clearance.
- Anti roll bar at 0º.

Rear:
- 50wt oil w/ #2 piston and cooper spring.
- Shock on the middle hole (upper side).
- Shock on the outer hole (lower side).
- Upper A-arm on the inner hole (longer).
- Camber at 3º.
- 2.5 toe-in.
- Adjust your precharge springs and droop to get 5mm ground clearance.

Comments. With this setup, the car can be not enough fast, but should be docile to drive. If need more steering, several things can be done in this order to increase steering.

- Switch to 6 degree caster (2 shims at the rear of the front A-arm).
- Switch to a 60wt oil in front.
- Install on the outer upper holes the front shocks (more vertical).
- Increase the toe-out at the front.
- Install the rear anti roll bar (this bar is 'slightly' adjustable, i'll tell you how to on a later messsage).
- Switch to a harder foam at the rear or install a 26mm wide with the same hardness at the rear (maybe you have too much grip at rear with 30mm ones).

BTW: I suppose that you've changed the stock servo saver spring for a harder one... :D

I thought the outer hole took away traction overall, as it decreases the camber under loading.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Distro
I thought the outer hole took away traction overall, as it decreases the camber under loading.

I said because he asked for a setup for tight tracks, a longer link do the car more stable but less prone to quick direction changes, many times we blame about the front track and we try solve messing on the front rather on the rear.

[Rookie Solara]

NTC3NUT.....yeah, when I was in HK, hoping to get the 3PK.....my other option are KO EX-1 Mars R and M8........KO is way too old, same looks and design for the last 15 years..........M8-Sanwa........Way way overprices.....no one in HK recommand me to get the M8, and told me to wait and have them to ship the 3PK over.........

3PK.......it is PCM, and I know absolutely nothing about that radio, but I know 2 things.......(1) it is Futaba, biggest name on RC radio, yes, the biggest and I used Futaba radio all my RC life (2) 3PK 7 colors indiglo display, option steering wheel offset conversion..........and COPS radar gun lookalike shape plus $20-30 cheaper then that overpriced M8..........


You just can't beat it..........

[Unregistered]

Foam tires aren't pratical for me since I don't race competitively, They do offer better grip, but they don't last long & I can't justify spending $40+ on tires every weekend The cheapest LHS sells Nitro SHoes for $20 a pair. I usually run the car on swept asphalt Temps in the 40's & 50's The Medial Pro's grip surprisingly well for rubber tires once they have warmed up & they last a long time. I'm curious why rubber tires with a Group C body is a bad idea? The difference between this & a sedan body is night & day as far as handling & High speed stability.

I have done the tank mod since that picture was taken- No tuning problems either way, I mainly did it to keep raw fuel from running into the pipe.

[barok1]

I think picture #3 got a good look of my throttle linkage....my set up is no special, exactly like the manuel said, and I believe that is the only way to get that work if you have a slide carb.

There are several reason your car will shut down while WOT....(1) Too rich (2) Too lean (3) I think that is the case, your linkage and servo setting are TOO FAR.....it pull the carb too much then it DRAW the BRAKE of your car.....like WOT and BRAKE at the same time....that will shut down the engine.....(4) check your idle setting as well.

If possible I will post a better picture of the throttle linkage.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

thnx rookie solara

do i have to change my servos and receiver.im still using the stock servos(Z270) and receiver(R135) from my JR XR3.if so any suggestions?i dont want to have the digital ones.thnx

[lbckevin]

Foam tires aren't pratical for me since I don't race competitively, They do offer better grip, but they don't last long & I can't justify spending $40+ on tires every weekend


Unregistered,

Why are your foam tires going so fast. I use foam tires for a month. They will need to be trued a few times. Rubber tires wear faster and cannot be trued. If you are going through tires then you must adjust your driving style to stay off the boards and curbs. As for the Group C body is a high downforce body and the rubber tires are low grip. There is also a problem when entering and exiting corners with the rubber tires. Also, according to your picture, your ride height seems to be very high. Try 4.5 in the front and 5mm in the rear. Try the CORSE-R setup. IF not go to RC10.com and check under the nitro tc3 setup for rubber tires.:D

[kakolitoy]

Originally posted by barok1
I think picture #3 got a good look of my throttle linkage....my set up is no special, exactly like the manuel said, and I believe that is the only way to get that work if you have a slide carb.

There are several reason your car will shut down while WOT....(1) Too rich (2) Too lean (3) I think that is the case, your linkage and servo setting are TOO FAR.....it pull the carb too much then it DRAW the BRAKE of your car.....like WOT and BRAKE at the same time....that will shut down the engine.....(4) check your idle setting as well.

If possible I will post a better picture of the throttle linkage.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

thnx rookie solara

do i have to change my servos and receiver.im still using the stock servos(Z270) and receiver(R135) from my JR XR3.if so any suggestions?i dont want to have the digital ones.thnx


Sure,

Ko propo 2173 in steering. ($80)
Futaba 9402 in throttle. ?

I really recommend:

KO propo 2143 steering ($95)
Ko propo 2173 throttle ($80)

[barok1]

Originally posted by kakolitoy
Sure,

Ko propo 2173 in steering. ($80)
Futaba 9402 in throttle. ?

I really recommend:

KO propo 2143 steering ($95)
Ko propo 2173 throttle ($80)

-------------------------------------------------------

where can i buy those servos with those prices coz i look on stormer hobbies their prices are way higher.anything else besides digital servos?

[Rookie Solara]

Futaba......9303, 9304, 9404, 9405........they are like $50-$70...no digital....used them on my PRO and Impact for like 3 years, still running strong, and never got any problem like Digital servo have....

[Distro]

Originally posted by Unregistered
Foam tires aren't pratical for me since I don't race competitively, They do offer better grip, but they don't last long & I can't justify spending $40+ on tires every weekend The cheapest LHS sells Nitro SHoes for $20 a pair. I usually run the car on swept asphalt Temps in the 40's & 50's The Medial Pro's grip surprisingly well for rubber tires once they have warmed up & they last a long time. I'm curious why rubber tires with a Group C body is a bad idea? The difference between this & a sedan body is night & day as far as handling & High speed stability.

I have done the tank mod since that picture was taken- No tuning problems either way, I mainly did it to keep raw fuel from running into the pipe.

If your paying 20 bux for a set of nitro shoes your lhs is ripping you off. Here is the deal with foams though, soft rubber is going to be like a hard foam. Now here is the kicker, the soft tires will overheat easil causing them to lose traction. Unlike foams which keep the same traction all the way until your running on the plastic.

[Distro]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
NTC3NUT.....yeah, when I was in HK, hoping to get the 3PK.....my other option are KO EX-1 Mars R and M8........KO is way too old, same looks and design for the last 15 years..........M8-Sanwa........Way way overprices.....no one in HK recommand me to get the M8, and told me to wait and have them to ship the 3PK over.........

3PK.......it is PCM, and I know absolutely nothing about that radio, but I know 2 things.......(1) it is Futaba, biggest name on RC radio, yes, the biggest and I used Futaba radio all my RC life (2) 3PK 7 colors indiglo display, option steering wheel offset conversion..........and COPS radar gun lookalike shape plus $20-30 cheaper then that overpriced M8..........


You just can't beat it..........

Too bad it doesn't have a radar feature on it. Also it has a color display? Thought it was just a black and white LCD with a backlight.

One more thing, where do you find the 3pk 20-30 bux cheaper then the m8? I looked at towers site (i know they are overprice but not by this much) They list it for 329 w/pcm, for 329 w/o servos. M8 is 189 without servos..

[Pro3/nmt105]

Rookie Solara that site rc boys has great prices how much do they charge for shipping? are they located in ny? do u know any coupon #s for them in the shopping cart there is a coupon option.

thanx
btw on tower the m8 is like $100 less than the 3pk where are u getting it for cheaper?

[NTC3NUT]

Hong Kong

[ross]

Hey Guys, Im not lucky enough to own a NTC3 but Im sure you will be able to help me.

I read somewhere that the NTC3 accepts both short (s) and pilot (p) crankshafts. To get to the point I have a RC10GT, and I have just ordered the .12 CVR with pilot shaft thinking that it would fit with a bit of cutting, but I have been told not. I have been told that the threaded part of the pilot shaft is a bigger diameter than short crank shafts so the flywheel hole/collet will be to small so it wont fit over. I remembered the NTC3 and wondered which different parts you have to use when setting up a pilot shaft engine to a short shaft engine. Do you have to use a different flywheel or collet.


Any information would be greatly appreciated


Cheers


Ross.

[Unregistered]

The NTC3 Kit comes with 2 clutch nuts- one to fit Pilot shaft engines, one to fit short shaft engines. the flywheel & collet are the same for both types. , The problem is the GT Clutchbells use inch size bearings & the pilot shaft crank is metric. The NTC3 uses Metric bearings in the clutchbell. When I installed a pilot shaft engine in my GT, I used the Associated #29001 clutch nut & a T-Maxx flywheel & clutchbells. they are 32 pitch like the GT, but use metric bearings.

On small block engines The SG cranks have 1/4 x28 thread, standard cranks are 3mm thread

[ross]

Originally posted by Unregistered
The NTC3 Kit comes with 2 clutch nuts- one to fit Pilot shaft engines, one to fit short shaft engines. the flywheel & collet are the same for both types.


Thanks alot, so in theory, my engine should work in my GT, I wont even need the SG clutchnut if i cut the shaft down. So has long has the flywheel and collet fit over the shaft.

Im sorry for talkin about my GT in here, but i figured you guys know most about the NTC3 :D


Thanks again

Ross


PS
Anyone know why they discontiued the NTC3 SG Clutchnut on tower hobbies?

[Distro]

Originally posted by ross
PS
Anyone know why they discontiued the NTC3 SG Clutchnut on tower hobbies?

Dunno doesn't make sense to me, then again tower hasn't made sense to me in over 5 years.

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Here's a picture of my real "collection". You may have seen it before on this site, or the RC Tech site.

Hi NTC3NUT,

I was just wondering from the picture of you front blade roll bar setting is 0 degree right? I guess 0 = flat surface of the blade.
I thought foam tire need to be set it like about 60 degree (what manual said from foam tire)

Thanks

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Rookie Solara that site rc boys has great prices how much do they charge for shipping? are they located in ny? do u know any coupon #s for them in the shopping cart there is a coupon option.

thanx
btw on tower the m8 is like $100 less than the 3pk where are u getting it for cheaper?

I never buy anything at Rcboyz cause my LHS can match their price....but their price does look great, you have to email them for the shipping cause, or simply call them.

I am not talking about the M8 version in state, in Japan, there are no Airtronic, it is called SANWA. Airtronic is just the brand they use in USA, and the one I am saying it is more expensive then 3PK is the Sanwa - M8 SS, 27MHz with RX-211 Receiver......like $300 US for now....

BTW, there is a new M8 coming out, called V-edtion....should be in Asia like Jan 2003.....

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Hi NTC3NUT,

I was just wondering from the picture of you front blade roll bar setting is 0 degree right? I guess 0 = flat surface of the blade.
I thought foam tire need to be set it like about 60 degree (what manual said from foam tire)

Thanks

You must play around the blade and understand the design behind that (created by Serpent).

" -- " means the softest.

" I " means the hardest...

Softest = more stearing.....

Hardest = less steering.....

I use NO sway bar....works on almost every parking lot race without any problem, but I use the rear sway to correct the spinning problem....

Also, play with your shock as well.....more important then the front sway.

[NTC3NUT]

I've tried it @ 0deg., 45deg., and 90deg.. Just ended up with better results @ 0deg., for my driving style. There is no specific way to set it for foams, just experiment.

[Distro]

What is different about the v edition over the regular m8?

[NTC3NUT]

I don't know, I saw that on a HK web site and couldn't find any other info.. I even went to Sanwa's Japan site, and nothing. I would be interested in finding out though.

[adlawoo]

Just want to double check with you guys here, before I order a NTC3 Pullstart Kit...I have an extra Nova C12 - Standard Shaft, lying around and I'm thinking of putting this to the NTC3..Is it possible without modification? And also, I'm getting it at Tower - do you happen to know where is more cheaper than that?..Many Thanks in advance!:D


P.S.

It just confuses me, about "Standard Shaft & Standard Short":confused:

[kakolitoy]

Originally posted by barok1
-------------------------------------------------------

where can i buy those servos with those prices coz i look on stormer hobbies their prices are way higher.anything else besides digital servos?

The 2173, abd 9402 are not digital, it is analouge. I have been using futaba, since I found about Ko. I replaced all of my servos to KO. I can probably help u out in the prices, but not now because of Xmass is coming up. Now is not the right time to shop. 2 months after xmass is the best time to shop (No nitro racing in the midwest or some state w/high temp, and for some shops after xmass sale). I can get stuff from Asia like Rookie, so if ur interested just let me know. The prices might go higher next month.

[Pro3/nmt105]

great theres a new m8 coming out i guess ill wait for that before buying a new radio. anybody know any info about it?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by adlawoo
Just want to double check with you guys here, before I order a NTC3 Pullstart Kit...I have an extra Nova C12 - Standard Shaft, lying around and I'm thinking of putting this to the NTC3..Is it possible without modification? And also, I'm getting it at Tower - do you happen to know where is more cheaper than that?..Many Thanks in advance!:D

If you have a C12 standard shaft, you can use it without any problems on the NTC3, just check to get the side exhaust version and all should go without problems.

SG Shaft (Serpent shaft) or Pilot Shaft motors can be used without problems on the NTC3, because it comes with all the hardware needed to install the engine.

About sites to buy your car, much of them should be cheaper than Tower, my bet should go for Speedtech R/C http://www.speedtechrc.com at 269 US$. Just navigate thru several sites and go for the most convincing (hint: If possible, try to support your local hobby shop).

[adlawoo]

Originally posted by Corse-R
If you have a C12 standard shaft, you can use it without any problems on the NTC3, just check to get the side exhaust version and all should go without problems.

SG Shaft (Serpent shaft) or Pilot Shaft motors can be used without problems on the NTC3, because it comes with all the hardware needed to install the engine.

About sites to buy your car, much of them should be cheaper than Tower, my bet should go for Speedtech R/C http://www.speedtechrc.com at 269 US$. Just navigate thru several sites and go for the most convincing (hint: If possible, try to support your local hobby shop).

Thanks Corse-R for your help...Would like to get it through my LHS, but they are more into Yokomo and cannot even ask them to order for me because of that...I know they will push me to get a Yok instead of a NTC3...Many Thanks again!:D :cool:

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Corse-R
If you have a C12 standard shaft, you can use it without any problems on the NTC3, just check to get the side exhaust version and all should go without problems.

SG Shaft (Serpent shaft) or Pilot Shaft motors can be used without problems on the NTC3, because it comes with all the hardware needed to install the engine.

About sites to buy your car, much of them should be cheaper than Tower, my bet should go for Speedtech R/C http://www.speedtechrc.com at 269 US$. Just navigate thru several sites and go for the most convincing (hint: If possible, try to support your local hobby shop).
the ntc3 is 269 at tower u can get it for like 259 at ultimate hobbies but towers cheaper with the discounts and codes

[TalleyRacing2]

I'm about to buy an NTC3. What are the must have items as far as upgrades. I've been running 1/8 offroad for 2 years, and tinkered with an MTX2 Prospec before being stationed in Korea. I've already got a lead on one of the new Rody Team X12s, so the engine is not a problem. Servos will be Aritronics 358, radio will either be an M8 or KO Mars-R. Basically who has the best price on a centax clutch, front oneway, and one of those pipes like Rookie has.

[ponky_wonky]

ur from korea? kewl, i'm korean but i live in Canada, anyhow, i've seen teh micro ss clutch for the ntc3 by kawahara and it seems real nice, it also come with lowered engine mounts since it uses a small diameter flywheel for better acceleration(less rotating mass)
speedtechrc carries them and they have great customer service so:


here's a link that leads u to the kawahara centax clutch for the ntc3
http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/212.html


and here's a link to speedtech that tells u how to order to international counties
http://www.sslorder.com/speedtechrc/117.html

the kawahara centax clutch from speed tech is 89.99

dae ha ming kuk!

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by TalleyRacing2
I'm about to buy an NTC3. What are the must have items as far as upgrades. I've been running 1/8 offroad for 2 years, and tinkered with an MTX2 Prospec before being stationed in Korea. I've already got a lead on one of the new Rody Team X12s, so the engine is not a problem. Servos will be Aritronics 358, radio will either be an M8 or KO Mars-R. Basically who has the best price on a centax clutch, front oneway, and one of those pipes like Rookie has.

The NTC3 on their stock configuration is enough competitive, but some points need to be addressed. I'll give you my own experiences with this car and parts used.

First of all, before you start assembling the car, need to buy some parts, that one time is assembled is a pain to change:

Associated part no. 6587 (Very important). Use the spring and discard the nut, use in place the one that comes to be used on the servosaver.
Associated part no. 1714. Swing rack bearings. Use in place of the bronze bushings that comes.
Associated part no. 1709. Bearing brake cam bearings (optional). I've installed, but people with the bushings don't have problems with them, if you don't want to install from zero, change them when worn.

All the rest of the parts are purely optional, but if you're a hardcore racer, maybe some parts can be wise for you.

Associated part no. 1700. Lightweight 2 speed one way hub. Lighter than stock.
Associated part no. 1701. Lightweight 2 speed clutch housing (2nd gear). Lighter than stock.
Associated part no. 1702 (optional). Lightweight clutch bell. I have one, tested but didn't noticed much improvement from the optional. Slightly lighter than stock and comes with vent holes. Cheap but not vital.
Associated part no. 1715. Front blade type anti roll bar. This should be one of your first hop-up part.
Associated part no. 1717. Aluminium front arb mounts. Very interesting, b/c the plastic ones flex when using high angles of the anti roll bar.
Associated part no. 1722. Carbon fiber radio tray. Much stiffer than the stock one. Tested this weekend and is superb visual look is very cool too (for those interested on).
Associated blue aluminium screw set for the TC3. Swap some steel screws for a lighter aluminium ones. Several pages before I posted a photograph of my car and you can get where I put the aluminium screws.

Not falling on the 'hop up' section, those parts are quite interesting to have when tuning your car.
- Associated red spring (22.5 lbs).
- Associated purple spring (30 lbs).
- Associated anti roll bar (wire type) part no. 3960. I don't recall if from stock comes with one, if yes, save it for the rear, sometimes is interesting to install (I used one time. Track conditions were simply brutal rear grip and traction roll constant - using 43 shore rears, solved partially using).
- Associated 48 tooth spur gear (2nd gear).
- Associated 20 tooth pinion gear (1st).
- Associated 21 tooth pinion gear (1st).
- Associated 27 tooth pinion gear (2nd).

Stock gearing 22/26 and 54/50 didn't liked me, switched to a 21/27 54/50 gear combination. All tests I did used ever a 20/26 or 21/27 on very rare conditions needed to use a 21/26 combination. The harder cooper clutch springs can be interesting too (part no is 2306, I believe) to have a snappier starting.

The stock muffler can be cut a little and ported for providing better exhaust flow. Cutting about 6-9mm gives you more high end power. Porting it gives better exhaust flow and lowers a little the temperature of your engine. For more info about it, check on the last 5 - 7 pages to find a photo posted by NTC3NUT to see an example.

Regarding engine: Rotate 90 degrees the heatsink of the engine to permit better airflow and cool the plug. All engines come with the heatsink for transversal placement not longitudinal placement.

Keep in mind that can be other parts, but all this is what I have on my car and found that gives an advantage from the stock parts.

About setups: Depending on the surface you use it, need a slightly different setup, use it, experiment and ask on the forum. Some good starting setups are been posted before.

[adlawoo]

:D :D Thanks Corse-R for addressing the pointers needed to be done before proceeding into building the NTC3 Kit. Your guidance will help me and others too, provide less time experimenting and go right away running the kit with no problem. Big Thanks Corse-R!:)

[TalleyRacing2]

Actually, I'm just stationed here for a year. Then heading back to the states to finish my enlistment.

[Distro]

The only parts i would get are the spring kit, bladed roll bar and the rear rollbar. The rest, is better off to buy some foam tires and see which ones work the best for you.

[ponky_wonky]

kewl kewl, howa is it in korea? real dirty, rite? lol
one word of advice: never drink from korea's tap water;)
u prolly already know this, but jus in case,u didnt know, many ppl have gotten ver sick from drinking korea's tap water:D

[TalleyRacing2]

All things considered it's not that dirty. There are some places that are, as I'm sure you very well know. But for the most part it's pretty cool. I already know to drink bottled water or water on base, but not off base tap water. I'm also going nuts trying to find some places or a place, close by to do some racing next spring and summer. :confused:

[ponky_wonky]

kewl,
i dun know any racetracks in korea either, lol, i've only been there 5 times
where exactly in korea are u? south?north(i doubt it, but its possible)?

[TalleyRacing2]

Pretty much North. 50 miles south of the DMZ.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by kakolitoy
great theres a new m8 coming out i guess ill wait for that before buying a new radio. anybody know any info about it?

If you look at Sanwa's website in Japan, the new one is called M8 version VIII.......even more expensive then the last generation, over priced and over rated.

I would take the 3PK without turning.........

[barok1]

Originally posted by kakolitoy
The 2173, abd 9402 are not digital, it is analouge. I have been using futaba, since I found about Ko. I replaced all of my servos to KO. I can probably help u out in the prices, but not now because of Xmass is coming up. Now is not the right time to shop. 2 months after xmass is the best time to shop (No nitro racing in the midwest or some state w/high temp, and for some shops after xmass sale). I can get stuff from Asia like Rookie, so if ur interested just let me know. The prices might go higher next month.

thnx.ill have to wait after xmas then.im planning to invest on a new engine first.which one would u recommend? sts r3 or sirio engine? both have the same price.

[ponky_wonky]

i'd get the STS RS12/RS-3 over the a stock .12 sirio any day, for one: the sts rs12/rs-3 are both very nicely hand modified engines who's internal mods are very very similiar to that of a JP XT12(very fast engine)
and please, dont beleive sirio's claim of 1.8hp, thats just rubbish

hope this helps:D
by the way, i have the STS RS12 handmod engine and it's just crazy, it can push my v one rr to about 60mph with the stock gearing

[show2ime]

I have a stock sirio and i wouyldn't trade it for anything under 200.00. If u haven't seen one run, do so first before making any decisions. When u do, it will make up your mind for you. I whip bb .15's, jp black 12's and even the shumacher .21 in 180ft with my little stock sirio. The jp's and other .12's never catch it no matter how far we race.. The schumacher hits 3rd gear and it flies then. And my sirio is the legal version.

[ponky_wonky]

ummmm, r u sure it can "whip" bigblock engines? thats like saying the sirio can "whip" .21 engines, that sounds a little sketchy
by the way, do u really beleive 1.8hp?
38000rpm for the sirio is beleiveable(the STS RS12 has 39000:D)
but 1.8hp is really pushing it.

[kakolitoy]

Originally posted by barok1
thnx.ill have to wait after xmas then.im planning to invest on a new engine first.which one would u recommend? sts r3 or sirio engine? both have the same price.

I heard Sirio is the fastest they tested. But I really recommend Novarossi. Novarossi Rs 12 S3 for Roar and Efra legal. If u want to save extra fuel use the turbo version Rs12 S5 I can probably get it for u for $190 to $195. I know they do not have it in the U.S. If u see one on Rookie's I know he did not get it in this country. I can also get the Sirio, but I know there is enough stock in the U.S.

[barok1]

Originally posted by ponky_wonky
i'd get the STS RS12/RS-3 over the a stock .12 sirio any day, for one: the sts rs12/rs-3 are both very nicely hand modified engines who's internal mods are very very similiar to that of a JP XT12(very fast engine)
and please, dont beleive sirio's claim of 1.8hp, thats just rubbish

hope this helps:D
by the way, i have the STS RS12 handmod engine and it's just crazy, it can push my v one rr to about 60mph with the stock gearing

thnx.where did u buy it?is it the same as shown below?lower than $149.99 on www.teamcrc.com?

[ponky_wonky]

thats the engine i have, i live in canada so i got it here, notfrom team crc, i got it for $250CAD
but i think 150 is the lowest price in the states

[ponky_wonky]

http://www.stsrc.com.tw/engines/RS3.php
this is link to one of their new engine(same price as the STS RS12)
i beleive it will be the same price as teh STS RS12 aswell(thats what customer service said)
anyhow, the STS RS12 link is here http://www.stsrc.com.tw/engines/RS12.php
its not on their site anymore since they have the STS RS3 now(it suposedly has more "mid end" and its roar legal(it comes with a non-turbo head button while the STS RS12 comes with a turbo head button)

[NTC3NUT]

kakolitoy,
I would like to get ahold of an S3, can you get & if so how much? Thanks!

[TalleyRacing2]

Originally posted by kakolitoy
I heard Sirio is the fastest they tested. But I really recommend Novarossi. Novarossi Rs 12 S3 for Roar and Efra legal. If u want to save extra fuel use the turbo version Rs12 S5 I can probably get it for u for $190 to $195. I know they do not have it in the U.S. If u see one on Rookie's I know he did not get it in this country. I can also get the Sirio, but I know there is enough stock in the U.S.

The fastest who tested? RCCA? That might be because Trinity gives them so much money they might as well just call the magazine Trinity monthly.

[ponky_wonky]

i agree:D

[Corse-R]

To whom anyone who interests:

Actually I have 3 different engines. JP RS12T (S3), RB X12 (1700-210) and a Sirio 'ROAR Legal'.

All three engines are different, The JP is the fastest, but Sirio is very close to it (No, I'm not RCCA staff, see from where I'm writing). The main difference between them is how they feel at the track, JP engine is plenty of power and the 1.5Hp claimed should be very close to their real rating.

Sirio, on their stock configuration is very fast, close to the JP, but with less power, but close (in fact my best lap with the Sirio is only 0.02 sec slower). Maybe don't have the brutal grunt of the JP on mid and high rpms, but the experience for any people should be quite simmilar and the difference on the cost of buying the motor and maintaining don't have any kind of comparing (For the cost of a new piston, sleeve and rod for the JP -153 Euros- almost bought my Sirio - 170 Euros).

The claim of 1.8Hp is bs, trust me, should be about 1.25 or 1.3 Hp but not that terrific number.

For the average racer, maybe a Sirio can be fine, why? Better price, carb adjustment is a breeze and maintains carb settings and is more resistant to 'weekly using'. If you're a hardcore racer who only wants the best of the best, maybe JP is your motor or a Ritchey or a Smeltz version.

I keep my JP on their box, without running, because the Sirio is quite satisfactory for me, and maybe someday, on a final I use the JP for assuring me 'an extra of power'.

[TalleyRacing2]

To reiterate what Corse-R has said, having run 1/8 offroad for 2 years, I've seen the fastest engines not even make the B main due to more power than was needed, and mediocre engines in stock form win the race because the driver was able to use all of the power he had, and not have to much.

[Rookie Solara]

Beside me, I think there are more then 100 ppl posted that....again, I will say it one more time.

Like Corse-R and other experienced racer..........dropping the FASTEST engine on your car (especially Touring car) would GARANTEE you fustration........100% money back guarantee.

For instain.....Serpent Impulse 705 with JP powered RS-12 T5......easily $800 just like that without anything else would give you a super fast car.....however, if you don't know how to setup your car.......your car will NEVER tune, and I can definitely pass you with my Mini-Z at the corner cause you are doing DONUT.

What I am saying is.....Engine is always engine, get something you can afford and OK performance will give you LOTS of fun time....JP engine are for experienced driver, if you barely know the word "Ported" means, forget about JP.....get yourself MR-12, Sirio, STS and anything around $150-$180 and be happy.

I am still tracking the engine report from Hong Kong regarding the STS engine and Sirio engine (yes, both of them are very popular over there) I am not sure ppl know.......STS engine are MADE in TAIWAN and again, THEY ARE VERY VERY GOOD engine......I tried to get one from HK for $100 US (all sold out in several hours)......but the representative of STS said, their engine are aimmed to JP engine, like Corse-R said, for $150, you can get something very similar and performs kinda like JP engine......that sounds wonderfull (Ok, I don't really know DINO himself but I believed my eye when I saw those V1RR can ran as fast as 15 turbo powered Serpent IMPACT)......so STS engine is worth to try.

About Sirio, good engine, please ignore the 1.8 HP.......no one ever DYNO that and no one beside Trinity can proved where is that 1.8 HP came from, but again, for $150.......that engine can definitely got its own ticket to play with the .12 engine's BIG BOYS like Nova Rossi, JP and RB........another great engine.

If you say there are no .12 engine can beat .15 or .21 or if you think dropping a .21 engine on TC is a garantee fastest..........THINK AGAIN.

Same track, same condition and same driver..............1/10 TC with .12 engine made the fastest laps and most laps, over .15 and .21 engine cars..........that is the FACT.

Again, just my 02 cents.

[TalleyRacing2]

It might only be your .02 cents. You are only one man. Proof is in the pudding. Any man with a little common sense will back you that it is a fact. All one needs to do, is look at thier time sheets to see what makes them the fastest around the ENTIRE track. Races are not won down the back stretch. Yes, it's neat to see the cars flying down the back stretch at what seems like 100 mph, but in reality, the back stretch serves only 2 real purposes. Primary being to clean the engine out after running through the infield, and the secondary is just a crowd pleaser.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by TalleyRacing2
the back stretch serves only 2 real purposes. Primary being to clean the engine out after running through the infield, and the secondary is just a crowd pleaser.

Yeah! love to have my motor pretty cleaned from dust after >175Ft long backstretch. Caught some pretty wicked fast cars doing more than 59Mph at the end of the straight with a radar gun.

The worst.... after a long backstretch, for sure that comes a nasty turn. :D

[Rookie Solara]

That's why I always spend a lot of time to upgrade my BRAKE first before the engine, with the T5 running next season, I might even need a more powerfull servo to handle the brake.....NTC3 slide too much sometime.

[ponky_wonky]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Beside me, I think there are more then 100 ppl posted that....again, I will say it one more time.

Like Corse-R and other experienced racer..........dropping the FASTEST engine on your car (especially Touring car) would GARANTEE you fustration........100% money back guarantee.

For instain.....Serpent Impulse 705 with JP powered RS-12 T5......easily $800 just like that without anything else would give you a super fast car.....however, if you don't know how to setup your car.......your car will NEVER tune, and I can definitely pass you with my Mini-Z at the corner cause you are doing DONUT.

What I am saying is.....Engine is always engine, get something you can afford and OK performance will give you LOTS of fun time....JP engine are for experienced driver, if you barely know the word "Ported" means, forget about JP.....get yourself MR-12, Sirio, STS and anything around $150-$180 and be happy.

I am still tracking the engine report from Hong Kong regarding the STS engine and Sirio engine (yes, both of them are very popular over there) I am not sure ppl know.......STS engine are MADE in TAIWAN and again, THEY ARE VERY VERY GOOD engine......I tried to get one from HK for $100 US (all sold out in several hours)......but the representative of STS said, their engine are aimmed to JP engine, like Corse-R said, for $150, you can get something very similar and performs kinda like JP engine......that sounds wonderfull (Ok, I don't really know DINO himself but I believed my eye when I saw those V1RR can ran as fast as 15 turbo powered Serpent IMPACT)......so STS engine is worth to try.

About Sirio, good engine, please ignore the 1.8 HP.......no one ever DYNO that and no one beside Trinity can proved where is that 1.8 HP came from, but again, for $150.......that engine can definitely got its own ticket to play with the .12 engine's BIG BOYS like Nova Rossi, JP and RB........another great engine.

If you say there are no .12 engine can beat .15 or .21 or if you think dropping a .21 engine on TC is a garantee fastest..........THINK AGAIN.

Same track, same condition and same driver..............1/10 TC with .12 engine made the fastest laps and most laps, over .15 and .21 engine cars..........that is the FACT.

Again, just my 02 cents.

yes, like u said, the STS RS12 is a VERY VERY VERY VERY GOOD egine, especially for only $150. STS likes to give racers top quality, for a very low price, ie. teh STS pro10 is jus a clone of a serpent impulse but much cheaper, parts wise and the initial cost, teh STS RS12 engine is like a JP clone(power wise) but much much cheaper to buy. oh, and by the way, if ur thinking about gettig the STS RS12, dont, jus go and get it!!!!!!!!!!!:D

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
That's why I always spend a lot of time to upgrade my BRAKE first before the engine, with the T5 running next season, I might even need a more powerfull servo to handle the brake.....NTC3 slide too much sometime.

I noticed something weird with the brake, sometimes seemed to not being progressive and being too rude.

The fact:
Oil and dust goes to your brake pads removing any kind of brake (and if it works is due to your 110oz. throttle servo :D ).
The remedy:
First of all, you need some things that maybe you have handy on your toolbox.
- Brake cleaner.
- Dispensable nail file (ask your mom/sister/wife for one). If not, grab some #280 or #320 wet sandpaper.

Dismantle the brake assembly and clean with brake cleaner all the grease on the surfaces of the pads. With the file (with the coarser side) remove all the shinyness of your brake pads and left a rough finish. If it's shiny, your pads are abused without letting them to be seated and tempered.

With the coarser side of the nail, get your disk and do some sanding on the disk (don't be afraid of doing some scratches, this is what we're seeking). Sand the two sides.

Install all onto your car and try to not get too much oil on your brake pads, this should be a part of your rutinary maintenance of the car (on mine is). Oil comes from the bearing of the engine (a little is acceptable, if your bearing is like a waterfall, someting weird occurs on your engine) it gets centrifugated and goes to the brake pads. I'm working on a oil shield for the brake pads made with lexan scrape, photos soon for anything who is interested.

Tip: When you dismantle the brake pads you notice that is only one who gets grooved by the disk. Get one of the pads and remove the black coating on the back (this is for identification purposes) and each time you dismantle the brake, check for shinyness and rotate the pads, you should wear the pads evenly (if you dare to wear the pads).

Carry on the toolbox one brake disk as spare, sometimes gets distorted and don't brake anything. Is a cheap spare who shouldn't hamper your wallet.

[barok1]

wow im learning a lot here in this forum.

-after ive practiced driving using my os max ill buy sts engine coz of its price.

-thnx corse-r u help me a lot on what i should buy or not to make my car fast. r u using both front rollbar AND rear anti rollbar on ur ntc3?

-can u pls help me on tuning my osmax12tr re. coz when the engine starts and been idle for 5 mins then my ntc3 just moves by itself without me touching anything on the remote.
-and also when i brake only my front wheels stops but my rear wheels keeps on rolling.is this normal?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by barok1
-thnx corse-r u help me a lot on what i should buy or not to make my car fast. r u using both front rollbar AND rear anti rollbar on ur ntc3?

-can u pls help me on tuning my osmax12tr re. coz when the engine starts and been idle for 5 mins then my ntc3 just moves by itself without me touching anything on the remote.
-and also when i brake only my front wheels stops but my rear wheels keeps on rolling.is this normal?

The front roll bar is a must specially when running foams. Rear is a tunning option, and depends on your driving style and your setup style, used the rear only one time.

I assume that that the idle speed is adjusted correctly. A possibility can be the clutch springs going weak. In case of doubt replace for the hard ones.

Maybe you have your rear diff adjusted too soft (pray for being this the cause). If this is revise your diff for damages (shouldn't be the first diff who goes to hell for being run too soft). Get the 5/64 allen key who came with your kit and adjust your diff tightening the screw (hex screw is on the right side of the diff, seeing the car from the rear) disassembly of the CVD isn't needed, just use the short side of the allen key, first time is quite tricky to do, but subsequent times adjusting the diff is a done in a blast.

[TalleyRacing2]

I've always run Airtronics 358 servos in my buggy, and my onroad cars have gotten the same thing. They may not be lightening fast, but I never have any doubts about my servos doing what they are supposed to. If a throttle/brake servo can make a buggy do a endo when the brakes are applied, do to so much power being aplied to the brakes, it's definately a good servo. Just my .02 though.

[Rookie Solara]

I used Futaba 9404 steering and 9101 for throttle on my Serpent 4 years ago, then to the IMPACT, then to the PRO, and then to the NTC3......and last week, its on the Super Nitro RS4.....$50 servo served me for 4 years on 5 different cars, and still going strong.

About the STS engine, I never own one, and I cannot say that is a very good engine, but for $100 US (that is the priced quoted in HK)......it is a steal.....but again, in USA, after $50 mark ups from Team CRC........you have to think it again. For $150....you can choose from MT-12, MR-12, Sirio, Nova Rossi and RB......

So think again.

[TalleyRacing2]

If you can get that long out of a $50 servo, by all means, keep on using them. No reason not too.
I will have to back you on the STS theory as well. For that money, just buy an Italian engine, and get it over with.

[barok1]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
About the STS engine, I never own one, and I cannot say that is a very good engine, but for $100 US (that is the priced quoted in HK)......it is a steal.....but again, in USA, after $50 mark ups from Team CRC........you have to think it again. For $150....you can choose from MT-12, MR-12, Sirio, Nova Rossi and RB......

So think again.

thnx

i just bought futaba 9404 from a friend for $30.used but it looks like new and still working.im going to buy ko propo servo with a good torque for my car next year coz im still saving my money on a new engine.ill ask my lhs what kind of engine parts do they have so in case i broke my new engine(hope not) parts can be readily available.

thnx for ur help Corse-R about my wheels not stopping, its my diff alright.about my car is still running even if i installed a new clutch springs (brass colored).

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by barok1
about my wheels not stopping, its my diff alright.about my car is still running even if i installed a new clutch springs (brass colored). [/B]

Then, your carb setup isn't well, check your idle speed.

[JWF_FRANI]

the sts is a good motor as far as performance goes but I havent
had it long enough to see how durability is.

[Rookie Solara]

Just finish reading more about DINO (part owner, driver for STS)....4 pages long, and I have a lot of repect to him.........again, for $100 (which will never happen again, it will be $125) there are nothing to lose..........

He also mentioned the STS vs JP engine........STS will NEVER out-perform JP, not even regular Nova Rossi engine like RS-12, BUT STS can hang with them..........his team just took the local 1st, TQ and 2nd last week......beat all those JP, T5, Corelli.....with their MAD-DOG (Pro look alike)......however, he said they are NOT trying to proof their engine is FASTER, they just want ppl to know their "MADE IN TAIWAN" engine are almost as good as JP, Nova Rossi those big boy.......

Last.......this is absolutely new to me and very interesting.......there are several mechanical engineer from the forum and are very knowledgalbe about MECHINARY.....questioning DINO those STS were fabricated by what kind and what type of machine........? That's get interesting.......becuase now everyone know why STS cannot be as good as JP and Nova Rossi.......

According from DINO......they used CAD/CAM design, and the machine that ACTUALLY factricate those engine block are considered level 3 machine......that is made in Japan. Even a level 3 machine can cost STS both arms and legs to get one, but the difficult part is..........those machine can fabricate RC engine block to some certain level, but also, they can fabricate some very powerfull WEAPONS.........(that scares me a little, but it rings the bell) Due to the speciall issue.......those Level 1 and 2 machine just cannot be purchased at local Hardware store unless you have special licence or permit (that make sence).......on top of that, machine like that can cost a fortune..........and because of that, STS can only settle with the 3rd best.......and that explain the quality and the COST of those STS (that;s why they are cheap)

On the last note, STS made all the T-MAXX, TraXXXx engine, Piston and sleeves.........etc.

It is kinda off topic, but just want to translate what I saw at the STS chinese site about the background of STS engine, and because of the honestly of DINO, I will definitely get one Non-turbo STS engine for my HPI challenge.

[ponky_wonky]

yup, dino is a very honest guy, never lies( dun think at least:p)
and by the way, the price of the engines are low, but the power is not!(not by a long long long shot!:D )

[XXXER]

Hey guys, I am set on the Nitro TC3, as it is just too cool to pass up for anything...

Either way, it sounds like the stock meats are worthless. I am reading around, and it looks like 30mm rear foams, and foams up front are the way to go. I will be cruising parking lots that are smooth pavement 90% of the time. I was wondering what would be a good tire that would last long. I have no idea what shore to get, or what size, etc. I should get for the front. I will not be racing it, sadly, as there is nobody here that races Nitro TC's. I would prefer pre-mounted tires, but if there is something better, let me know!

I plan on getting the bump start, RE kit. I figure I will couple that with the Mugen MT12, unless someone has a better suggestion. The TO Wasp engine looks killer, but it is also 200 bucks, which is ridiculous for a .12.

Thanks a ton guys!

-Steve

[JWF_FRANI]

hey steve if you want foam tires I suggest getting the jaco
nitro shoes 26mm front and 30 rear (40 shore front and back)
as a starting point these are premounted and last's a little bit
longer the the other brands. as for the mt12 you can never
go wrong with it every time there is a new motor out the always
seem to compare it to the mt12 or rs12 re nova engines also
from personal experience it's been good.