Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v2.0

[Unregistered]

If you are using the car to zoom around with your buddies, the pre mounted Medial Pro rubber tires are nice if you can find them, they don't grip as well as foams, but they last a lot longer. All the LHS's near me want $20-$22 for a pair of Nitro Shoes,(same as Medial Pros) which I think is a rip off, as I can buy Ellegi foam tires for my Impact for $13 front & $17 rear. The MT12 is a good choice, plenty of power & spare parts are easily aviailable.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by XXXER
I will be cruising parking lots that are smooth pavement 90% of the time. I was wondering what would be a good tire that would last long. I have no idea what shore to get, or what size, etc. I should get for the front. I will not be racing it, sadly, as there is nobody here that races Nitro TC's. I would prefer pre-mounted tires, but if there is something better, let me know!

I plan on getting the bump start, RE kit. I figure I will couple that with the Mugen MT12, unless someone has a better suggestion. The TO Wasp engine looks killer, but it is also 200 bucks, which is ridiculous for a .12.

Good decision about getting an NTC3 and if you run on smooth pavement, foams are the way to go. Seems that NitroShoes are the most common, for the 30mm rears you need to get the 0 offset ones, maybe a 40 Front and 40 Rear.

On the engine matter, if you don't want to fire 200 bucks, get a see on the Sirio ROAR legal or the STS 12 are more cheaper (About 150 US$) and have enough grunt for you (next week I'll race a Sirio ROAR).

[Rookie Solara]

Well.....NTC3 with RE kits is the way to go, good choice.

Foams, Nitro shoes are your 1st choice.....but in Chicago, they are way too expensive and rare to find.......2nd choice, Ellegi for Serpent PRO, those Neon yellow 5 spoke, very nice and easy to put on....and they have 26mm front and 30mm rear (that is the width of the tires, front and rear if you don't know)........SHORE...anything higher then 40 shores should last long (40, 42 or even 45.....) the lower the number, the softer the compounds = more trackion = shaved much faster = last shorter time.......

MT-12.....my MT-12 is like 3.5 years old now, still running strong, both STS and Sirio are good engine, however, since they are still new, ppl are still tunning them and tech support may not be as much as MT-12.........most ppl know how to under MT-12 problem.

BTW, can someone tell me where can I buy Piston and Sleeves for MT-12 online...?

Thanks..........

[TalleyRacing2]

Rookie, go to www.Nationalrc.com. They haven't got them listed on the site, but they'll have em in hand.

Out of curiosity, what kind of top end am I looking at with the NTC3, compared to other cars. I'll be running on large tracks here in Korea, well, large by US standards. Will I need to gear up to run with them? Engines aren't a problem, I've got an X12 that's getting modified now, and I'm lookin at getting an MR12 as well.

[NTC3Fan]

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
I just ordered my NTC3 Pullstart version this past Monday...
Paid $254.00 for it from Tower Hobbies
But i gotta wait 10 - 30 days b4 it arrives from Tower Hobbies to here in South Africa......
I cant take the pressure anymore..

Now... i've been reading RC Nitro - the issue where they done the Stage 3 HPI Rs4 3 with all the Hop Ups...
the Engine they used was a OS .15 CV -r i believe with a Rex Tuned Pipe..
they got a top speed of 58 mph...
Can i expect the same perfromance from my NTC3 with this combo or can one go a tad faster??
what other Motors to u rekon????

I'm also thnking of getting a JR Propo radio either a Xr2 or Xr3....

Cant wait to fire it up

NTC3Fan

[NTC3Fan]

Where can i find a Online shop who sells this MT12 engine and ships to SA??

Cheers
Bevan

[Rookie Solara]

For your information - MUGEN MT-12 engine is like good 4 years old, and I believed they discontinued it.......but the new one called MR-12 is just the same, except, it is a short shaft instead of the MT-12 long shaft design.........power and function are very much the same.....

You might be able to find some left over MT-12, but I doubt it you can find them to ship over to South Africa.......so, get the MR-12 instead.

This place is great......and also, check out the SIRIO engine, it is very much competable with MR-12, Nova Rossi, RB and others...

www.speedtechrc.com

NTC3 can reach 58 mph for sure with 2-speed and decent engine like MT-12.....almost all the high end TC can match HPI RS4 3 SS.......if not, you should see plenty of HPI on national instead of Serpent, Yo, Mugen and NTC3.

You made a good choice.........just spend money on their plastic parts and you will be happy, also, stay away from any board.

[TalleyRacing2]

Don't forget about the X12. It's basically the same as an MR-12 or RS-12. Price should be the same too.

[Distro]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
For your information - MUGEN MT-12 engine is like good 4 years old, and I believed they discontinued it.......but the new one called MR-12 is just the same, except, it is a short shaft instead of the MT-12 long shaft design.........power and function are very much the same.....

You might be able to find some left over MT-12, but I doubt it you can find them to ship over to South Africa.......so, get the MR-12 instead.

This place is great......and also, check out the SIRIO engine, it is very much competable with MR-12, Nova Rossi, RB and others...

www.speedtechrc.com

NTC3 can reach 58 mph for sure with 2-speed and decent engine like MT-12.....almost all the high end TC can match HPI RS4 3 SS.......if not, you should see plenty of HPI on national instead of Serpent, Yo, Mugen and NTC3.

You made a good choice.........just spend money on their plastic parts and you will be happy, also, stay away from any board.

IT doesn't have a shorfter shaft! It has a smaller in length con rod... Don't want to make people start thinking its a STD shaft engine instead of a SG shaft one.

[TalleyRacing2]

I didn't even notice that. The MT12 was a long stroke, the MR12, along with all other Nova 12 engines are short stroke.

[lbckevin]

Hey guys , just for your info... The Mugen MT-12 is still being made and is still a current model for Mugen Seiki. It is for sale and currently available on Speedtech.com. for $139.

[lbckevin]

Hey guys , just for your info... The Mugen MT-12 is still being made and is still a current model for Mugen Seiki. It is for sale and currently available on Speedtech.com. for $139.

[lbckevin]

Hey guys , just for your info... The Mugen MT-12 is still being made and is still a current model for Mugen Seiki. It is for sale and currently available on Speedtech.com. for $139. :D

[lbckevin]

Hey guys , just for your info... The Mugen MT-12 is still being made and is still a current model for Mugen Seiki. It is for sale and currently available on Speedtech.com. for $139. :D

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara

You made a good choice.........just spend money on their plastic parts and you will be happy, also, stay away from any board.

Which Plastic parts do u rekon shud be changed??
Which board do u mean???

Bevan

[NTC3Fan]

I'm interested in this motor...
From all the replys ive seen it seems this motor is not bad at all and can keep up with all the other makes..

Now the question is will this motor be able to fit in my NTC3 as i ordered the pullstart version and i noticed this is the non pull start version..
what would i have to get now to run the engine???

This is the engine avail on Tower Hobbies:

Sirio Motor on Tower Hobbies (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LL7670&P=1)

[show2ime]

I have the sirio any pixy .12 and they are both fast as hell. I have not seen any stock .12 run as fast in my yrs of rc. The sirio like mid to top end and the pixy has a ton of low end power. Nice drag motor. For 160.00, you can't beat the Sirio. Not 1.8 as its listed, but probably 1.5. You can spend twice as much on modified .12's and get a marginal increase in performance. I have shelved my jp modified .12. Btw, its for sale now. I can't wait til the outlaw sirio comes out. I have raced against nearly every high end .12 out there and after the race, the first question is"man, what engine do u have in there"? Don't let the newness scare u off, it's the real deal.

[TalleyRacing2]

What do you want for your JP? There's alot yet to be had in one of them little fellers if you have the right engine man. For that matter, I wonder how the Sirio or Pixi would respond to being sent out and ported. hehe :D

[cbr74]

Now the question is will this motor be able to fit in my NTC3 as i ordered the pullstart version and i noticed this is the non pull start version..

To run that engine, you'd need the Rear exhaust header, pipe, and the non-pullstart engine mounts and flywheel.
And a starter box of course.

But before you go to all that trouble.. I strongly recommend you do a little research on a gem known as the Collari XS 12 PSS.
It's the single most awesome pullstart small block I've ever run.

It will drop right in to the NTC3 that you bought... I know.. because that's the one I bought myself.

I originally had an O.S. 12 CV-RX in my NTC3.. after installing the Collari.. the difference was night and day. The Collari puts the CV-R to serious shame for about the same $.

Here's a pic.
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Nov/200211216725547992706758.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Distro
IT doesn't have a shorfter shaft! It has a smaller in length con rod... Don't want to make people start thinking its a STD shaft engine instead of a SG shaft one.

Absolutely correct, I was using the wrong TERM, it should be a "shorter stroke" design, unlike MT-12 the long stroke design.

Thanks for correcting my mistake.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Which Plastic parts do u rekon shud be changed??
Which board do u mean???

Bevan

No....I didn't mean you have to CHANGE, just get at least 2 set of shock towers, 2 sets of diff case, 1 pair of steering knuckles, and a pair of CVT for spare, they are for SPARE, NTC3 are race ready out of the box...........you don't have to have those eye candies like mine...(I like my car looks good first, then fast)

Board........in USA, we use those 1x6 board to layout our track, those are the "board" that I was referring to......stay the hell away from them while you race.

[NTC3Fan]

hahaha okay....
will keep myself a couple meters away then..
Thnxs 4 all the info guys..

Grrrrrrrr placed my order on the 18th of Nov which was Monday..
Tower has a shipping time of 10-30 days....
please please please let it arrive here after 10 day!!!!!


Bevan

[Pro3/nmt105]

cbr74 what reciever pack do u have in your ntc3?

[cbr74]

cbr74 what reciever pack do u have in your ntc3?

It's a Racer's Edge #5084 5 cell 1100 mah NiMh flat rx pack.

The Factory Team carbon fiber top plate doesn't work well with anything but a flat pack.

[Pro3/nmt105]

do any of these fit the ntc3?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p.pgm?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=trinity+reciever&FVPROFIL=++

[jnegrx]

You can use almost every configuration of packs, but i prefer the flat packs (lower center of gravity).

[Pro3/nmt105]

i want a stick pack but i need some one to tell me which one will fit id like it to fit with the graphite upper deck

[cbr74]

This one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG16&P=7
It is identical in size and configuration to the one you see installed on my NTC3.

[spenzalii]

But before you go to all that trouble.. I strongly recommend you do a little research on a gem known as the Collari XS 12 PSS.
Really? Where did you get it? I want one

[jnegrx]

Is up to you because there are so many brands that it's imposible to tell you wich one. I use Trinity and Orion. They are very good and last the 45mins main with no problems.

[cbr74]

RcBoyz has the XS 12PSS for $165. RcBoyz (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=17267&clist=)

[adlawoo]

cbr74: Your Collari - is that Standard or an SG Shaft? So, it's a direct dropped in engine for NTC3 PS Kit? TIA!:D

[cbr74]

It's a standard threaded shaft. I don't remember if I had to cut it or not.

[nickko]

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/graphics/K1229(ssss).jpg

[nickko]

www.kfactoryracing.com

[nickko]

New fuel tank

[NTC3Fan]

I've been hearing that i ought to get a good pair of drivers so i dont strip the screws...

What do u guys reccomend i shud get
and what they cost..
are the Associated drivers any good??

[NTC3Fan]

Alos what am i supposed to get??
The Metric type or the SAE Type???

[Unregistered]

The sizes you will need are .050, 1/16, 5/64. 3/32
Lots of companies make high quality allen drivers, I like the Dynamite ones for $7 each

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Unregistered
The sizes you will need are .050, 1/16, 5/64. 3/32
Lots of companies make high quality allen drivers, I like the Dynamite ones for $7 each

I cant find this on Horizon Hobby
Can someone point me to a link where i can purchase them online??
and also a site with the details on it

Cheers

Nevermind.... Found them.........

[NTC3Fan]

The sizes you will need are .050, 1/16, 5/64. 3/32

And these will fit all the Hex Screws on the NTC3???

[Distro]

You can get a full set of integy drivers(both standard and metric) for like 25 bux, its 6 or 8 drivers can't remember though.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Distro
You can get a full set of integy drivers(both standard and metric) for like 25 bux, its 6 or 8 drivers can't remember though.

Where????

[DOOD]

All those K Factory stuff looks real good! I like the new tank and centax. With Trinity's vast distribution resources, you'd expect to see alot of these K Factory stuff in the stores. Nope, not true. Their website says that K Factory stuff has shipped out, but all I see are chassis and pinions. The centax is hard to find.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by DOOD
All those K Factory stuff looks real good! I like the new tank and centax. With Trinity's vast distribution resources, you'd expect to see alot of these K Factory stuff in the stores. Nope, not true. Their website says that K Factory stuff has shipped out, but all I see are chassis and pinions. The centax is hard to find.

Order the kawahara one at speedtechrc.com it's the same. I doubt that Big 'T' distributes all the pieces for the NTC3, some parts that are listed at Speedtech don't come from NJ (shock towers and other parts). Seems that T is reluctant to sell parts for a car from the competition.

Still working on the brake disk dust cover (almost finished). This morning talked with a friend to do a brake cam hollow on carbon steel rather on aluminium (if something goes good I'll show to the people).

[johnnybp7]

I own the K-Factory Centax clutch and looking back I can't imagine how I survived with out one. I reason why I picked the K-Factory unit is because it came with cool looking blue engine mounts, a new flywheel and obviously the Centax clutch. Now the K-Factory Centax clutch costs $159.99 which is significantly more than the Kawahara Centax clutch which costs $89.99. I've been into R/C for about 2 years and I'm not too familiar with Kawahara parts, Trinity on the other hand I know quite well so I know I have a good quality unit. Well hope this helps in your decision.

*Edit*
Also if you look at the 2 clutches you'll see that the K-factory clutch has less rotating mass.

[Twist 2 Go]

Hey guys, I finally got my motor broke in and started leaning it out. I am finally experiencing the low- fuel level lean out that the new tank is supposed to fix. My question is after installing the new tank or modifying the old one, what length of fuel hose is needed between the pipe and tank? Do I still need the 15" coiled up or can it be shorter like the rtr pics show? Thanks

[TalleyRacing2]

I never realized how hard it is to make a simple decision. I'm an offroad guy by nature, but there are few offroad tracks here in Korea. At least not close to where I am for the next 9 1/2 months. That's my main reason for getting an onroad car, at least I can race it now and then.
I've been driving myself crazy trying to figure out what all to get for the car. I don't really think that the front oneway, or solid rear axle are a necessity because alot of my running, will be on a temporary track, in a parking lot. My last tc was an MTX2 Prospec. I loved the car, but can't justify the price of the new mtx3, especially when it still hasn't got the universals on it. When I build this car, I want to put everything on it from the git-go. Som what does it really need. I've got an X12, with a standard crank, but has the SG on the way. I'll also be sending the engine out to be modified, so I'll have ample power. <I feel like such a newby asking these questions> Anyway...I'm most likely going to get the dual chamber pipe, but what about a centax? I'd really like to have it, but is it work the money? And should I, or should I not get the swaybars. I'll probably put a lola or gt1 body on it, if that helps. Thanks guys.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
Hey guys, I finally got my motor broke in and started leaning it out. I am finally experiencing the low- fuel level lean out that the new tank is supposed to fix.

Just a quick tip to prevent this, no matter if you have the old or the new tank. Remove the O-ring that goes at the rear part of the tank (side where's only one screw). This puts your tank on a little ramp and prevents this nasty and dangerous effect on your motor. In fact you can run dry your tank.

About the pressure line on your tank, no idea, still running the old style tank.

[speedydave]

Those o-rings are there to prevent the fuel tank vibrating a whole ton, causing the fuel to foam. What I would do, instead, would be to put one extra o-ring on each of the two front screws, giving the same effect Corse-R's suggestion gave, but still giving the fuel tank that cushion.

[NTC3Fan]

Did AE make a new tank 4 the kit...
If so.. i ordered the NTC3 Team Kit from tower on monday past will i get the new one and how can i tell if i did or not.....

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Did AE make a new tank 4 the kit...
If so.. i ordered the NTC3 Team Kit from tower on monday past will i get the new one and how can i tell if i did or not.....

Don't frighten for this, all kits that currently are selling comes with the new tank, but for sake of your mind, the new tanks is the one who comes with the pressure intake on the lid rather than being submerged on the tank.

[speedydave]

Hey guys. I'm starting to research an onroad car for next spring/summer, and I'm stuck between getting an electric TC3, or an NTC3. I used to own an electric TC3, which I ran a stock motor in, but I didn't own it for long because at the time I didn't really feel like racing onroad and offroad, and bashing with a stock motor was boring. I'm unsure as to which I'd want because I know I'll love the speed of the NTC3, but I have a spare Cyclone and batteries lying around, and I don't want to go all nitro(I'd like to have an electric car for me to be able to mess with, still). However, as I said before, the stock motor powered TC3 got kinda boring. Any suggestions? Thanks.

[trakhak]

Ok gents I need some input. I run foams on a new asphalt track, it is super smooth and the traction is there but us gas guys are having a hard time. My question is, do you run with a tire softener/additve to enhance grip or not? I dont sauce my tires and I am wondering what you guys do? My next question is, I have not seen any foam tire treatments in awhile and could not find any at the shops around here, does anyone have a homemade "recipe" they can pass on?! Thanx!
By the way I am running ellegi foams 40s frt, and 35s rear and how come when I try 30mm rears I get all kinds of sliding going on is it me?

[Rookie Solara]

DO NOT add foam tire sauce unless you have to.......you have to start from the basic, foam tires are NOT your final asnwer for traction.....SAUCE just shaved your tires faster....won't work....and sauce only work AFTER you got your car dailed, your car is far from being "Dailed".....

Try, Softer (lighter) oil on shocks, bigger opening on the damper, softer springs at rear.

Front, thicker oil, harder springs, smaller opening on the damper...

The composition between the two is just a little different....try not to make SUPER HARD on front and SUPER SOFT at rear.....you need to get them kinda balance.....

It is hard, very hard, so spend your time and figure them out, no one can get that TRACTION right away....

Get different scale of springs, oils, damper, and every singel one of them , you might find that extremely pain in the butt, but that is LIFE...and it is part of Nitro Racing.

Last...use the Assoicate setup to start (read your manual), most ppl ended up a great result from there.

[TalleyRacing2]

Am I mute or something? :confused:

[piccoracer123]

do any of you guys have the trinity/ k factory centax. mine wont mount properly on to my chassis. the clich bell is all out of wack with the spure gear
help please :confused:

[XXXER]

Thanks for all of your help guys! I now understand the shore (somewhat) and stuff. I work at a hobby shop, and Horizon still advertises to us that the MT12 is still available. I am selling my Micro RS4 so that I can get "The Guts", and starting equipment. The way I am looking, I will be running it by late January, early February. I figure if it is that time I have it, I will wait until Spring to break it in, as there will most likely be snow on the ground until March.

Speaking of which: It snowed today, and I cannot wait to go skiing.

Also, about the tires, I may look into the TREADZ tires, Steve Pond used them in the testing of the NTC3 in the RC Nitro. I will probably try both.

Thanks again!

-Steve

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by speedydave
Hey guys. I'm starting to research an onroad car for next spring/summer, and I'm stuck between getting an electric TC3, or an NTC3.

Well, all depends on what you really want, and if you're torn in two between the gas and electric and previously you've owned a TC3, why not try with the nitro version?

Depending the version you choose you may need more or less nitro equipment. My best bet for you goes thru the side exhaust with a medium power engine (novarrosi, RB, collari,...) with pull starter. Later if you're really hooked with nitro cars and you feel the need for speed you can upgrade to a rear exhaust with a engine with 'more muscle'.

NTC3 is quite satisfactory for a broad range of people, from the backyard basher to the hardcore racer, for sure that you like the NTC3.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by TalleyRacing2
I've been driving myself crazy trying to figure out what all to get for the car. I don't really think that the front oneway, or solid rear axle are a necessity because alot of my running, will be on a temporary track, in a parking lot.

When I build this car, I want to put everything on it from the git-go. Som what does it really need. I've got an X12, with a standard crank, but has the SG on the way. I'll also be sending the engine out to be modified, so I'll have ample power. <I feel like such a newby asking these questions> Anyway...I'm most likely going to get the dual chamber pipe, but what about a centax? I'd really like to have it, but is it work the money? And should I, or should I not get the swaybars.

TalleyRacing:

If you want to get your car loaded with everything from the start, you may need to fire some bucks more, but not much more.

I answered previously this question but, here we go...

First: Upgrade your drivetrain to the ligher one (one way hub, 2nd speed clutch hub, and clutch bell). You lighten the drivetrain and get more zoom and acceleration, very noticeable.

Second: Get a two chamber pipe, you lose some of those 'motocross' sound, but the power output is higher on all the rpm range.
Find, several pages before this a post from NTC3NUT showing what you can do with your exhaust (porting and cutting). This give you more high end powe - The stock exhaust configuration of the NTC3 gives a lot of low end and maybe a little of more high end is desirable.

Third: Sway bars. Really only needed the front, get the blade type with the aluminium supports.

With this accesories we end what I call 'major changes' next we go to the little changes that make differences.

1. Get the 6587 part from AE and swap the stock spring of the servo saver for this one, stiffer and better performing.
2. Get the AE 1714 part (Swing rack bearings). Better precision for the steering.
3. Optional. Get the 1709 part (brake cam bearings). Some people have and some not, not much needed. You can change after, when the bushings get some wear.
4. Get the stiffer clutch springs, the stock ones are a little soft.

About the centax: I have the Kawahara one and if isn't for serious racing, it's an overkill for the people, stick with the two shoes with hard springs.

After buying those parts, sure that you haven't started to dial your car, then you need some gear for it. Grab the red spring (22.5 lbs) and the purple (30 lbs). Some gearing is needed.

Depending your track and engine you need to change the stock gearing (a little short for our actual engines). Get the 48 tooth spur and the 21 and 27 pinions (be prepared to get the 20 too if it's needed). Don't go for the easy one (23 and 27) makes the first too long and the second is a little larger, but not enough.

For sure that I'm missing much little details. Navigate thru this pages, contains a lot of information and little tricks for your car, and get the most needed 'hop-up'. Practice.

[TalleyRacing2]

How fragile is the car. I've heard mixed reports on that. Same say it's very fragile, others say it's no worse than any other car. I've also heard alot of guys already have picked up the mtx3, and are selling their ntc3 because the mtx3 is more durable, and easier to tune from the start. I'm more used to running 1/8 buggies, so durability is going to be totally different obviously.

[piccoracer123]

do any of you guys have the trinity/ k factory centax. mine wont mount properly on to my chassis. the clich bell is all out of wack with the spure gear
help please

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by TalleyRacing2
How fragile is the car. I've heard mixed reports on that. Same say it's very fragile, others say it's no worse than any other car. I've also heard alot of guys already have picked up the mtx3, and are selling their ntc3 because the mtx3 is more durable, and easier to tune from the start. I'm more used to running 1/8 buggies, so durability is going to be totally different obviously.

All RC car are fragile, that is the FACT....if you cannot tune your car properly and crashed to the board, even cars like SERPENT (no car is MORE durable then Serpent, not even MTX3) can break into pieces...

I had Serpent PRO and IMPACT for 3 years.....NTC3 is no fragile then the Serpent, in fact, the steering knuckles on the PRO can break in less then 2 second.......so, go figure.

Ppl buying MTX3 and selling their NTC3 because the MTX3 is new, very typical..........doesn't mean it is better (well, MTX3 is still a great car)....and will see who's getting the on-road touring champion later.

[TalleyRacing2]

I guess I shouldn't worry to much. The ntc3 doesn't have belts to break, plus it's an American made car, which means buying it will pay someone's wages for a day. Not only that, I can get the car at dealer cost, being that I have a dealer account. So I shouldn't really complain. How hard is it to put a Lola type body on the car? I'm thinking that might be the class I run.

[Unregistered]

I put a Porsche group C body on mine- it was a hassle to cut the front shock tower & drill new mounting holes for the front shocks so they would lay down- but it will out handle any sedan body by far. I considered a Lola body, but I didn't want to cut a hole in the side for the fuel tank. Send me a PM or email & I can send you some pics.

[speedydave]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Well, all depends on what you really want, and if you're torn in two between the gas and electric and previously you've owned a TC3, why not try with the nitro version?

Depending the version you choose you may need more or less nitro equipment. My best bet for you goes thru the side exhaust with a medium power engine (novarrosi, RB, collari,...) with pull starter. Later if you're really hooked with nitro cars and you feel the need for speed you can upgrade to a rear exhaust with a engine with 'more muscle'.

NTC3 is quite satisfactory for a broad range of people, from the backyard basher to the hardcore racer, for sure that you like the NTC3.

Well, I've already got 3 nitros(FTGT, Mugen XR Works, 2.5 T-Maxx), so I've got quite a bit of support equipment(2 starter boxes with power panels on each, glow clip for the power panel, spare glow ignitor, Raytek MT-2, etc). I know I'll love the NTC3, but I somehow feel compelled to keep/have something electric. I guess I'll either suck it up and buy a B4 too( :p ) or just sell my Cyclone and batteries...And speaking of engines, I have three on my list to choose from: MT-12, RB X12, or an OS .12 TR. I'm not sure which I'll go for yet, if I get the NTC3, but I'm sure I'll love whichever I get. This will definitely be a racer, I've got a 2.5 T-Maxx to bash the hell out of. ;) Thanks! :)

[fastharry]

Originally posted by TalleyRacing2
How fragile is the car. I've heard mixed reports on that. Same say it's very fragile, others say it's no worse than any other car. I've also heard alot of guys already have picked up the mtx3, and are selling their ntc3 because the mtx3 is more durable, and easier to tune from the start. I'm more used to running 1/8 buggies, so durability is going to be totally different obviously.


and I bet the're the same ones who sold their mtx 2's for the tc3....


joining the flavor of the month club doesn't make you a winner....If they wanted to backwards to a belt car,they should have bought a Serpent 705....at least they were in teh top 10 at teh worlds

[Rookie Solara]

Well, I think we are just looking at the USA market stand point....Serpent 705 is just a minor change, not like MTX-3, a complete make over............if I have to pick a belt drive car, I will pick between V1RR and MTX3........HOWEVER, getting those Japanese car in USA, parts is definitely a major concern, so please consult with your LHS and see do they have any parts for these 2 cars.......

Talking about buy American car........it is SAD to say that NTC3 parts might not be necessary made in USA, the reason I said that is because NTC3 is like $200 in HK, Protoform body is like $14 each.........yeah GO FIGURE....not to mention REEDY Motor, are cheaper oversea then USA.

For me, I just don't see myself going back to BELT after driven the NTC3......YES, it is not the best looking car (it is actually kinda ugly looking esp. that specail polish sausage look alike duel chamber pipe design).........but PERFORMANCE COUNTS.

About the Lola.......shaved the front shock tower is a MUST, then opening for the engine, intake and the opening for the tank are something that made the car looks butt ugly....but again, PERFORMANCE COUNTS.

[FrankyRizzo]

and I bet the're the same ones who sold their mtx 2's for the tc3....

I sold my MTX2 for the TC3. It is a better performing car. The only thing I have against it is that it is for a pro that can drive it flawlessly. One whack and it's out of spec. In the days when you changed your driving to suit the conditions you could accomodate "track side" changes. A lot of people don't know what it is to actually drive a car in my honest opinion. Now with all the cars being so compeditive it is an advantage to have a dependable car.

I am considering getting the MTX3 for my collection so I can have a better shot at that 45 minute main and less down time.

This is an opinion of a non pro who pays for all his parts. If I was sponsored and had a ton of parts and was paid to just work on my car and race I would probably think differently.

[barok1]

-guys do u know what are the sizes fo bearings used in ntc3 specially brake cam and swing rack bearings? towerhobbies only have its outside and inside diameter but not their thickness.

-and also which sealed bearings are good? rubber, teflon, metal shielded?

[Distro]

I am not sure of the width of the bearings but i would go with teflon/metal shield combo bearings. (like the ones from boca, not going to find any better then them).

[TalleyRacing2]

Scrap the Lola idea, not gona go removing material from the car to make it fit.
For your bearings, they should all be the correct thickness that they are selling, unless the are noted as being a ODxIDxthickness style bearing. Also, from past experience, get the rubber sealed bearings. Less chance of dirt getting into them, so they last longer.

[fastharry]

the rack bearings are a thichness no one has,not even Boca Bearing...save yourelf aggravation and get them from Associated

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
About the Lola.......shaved the front shock tower is a MUST, then opening for the engine, intake and the opening for the tank are something that made the car looks butt ugly....but again, PERFORMANCE COUNTS.

Where is this Lola???????
anyone gots pics or a link to who sells it???
i dont see it on Tower either....

[Distro]

I think the lola body they are talking about is made by yokomo.

[Distro]

Originally posted by fastharry
the rack bearings are a thichness no one has,not even Boca Bearing...save yourelf aggravation and get them from Associated

I thought boca had everything.. oh well.

[Rookie Solara]

There are 2 LOLA bodies for 1/10 TC that I know (I am sure there are more then 2)....one is Yokomo and the other is from Frewer....

No matter which one you use on NTC3, you must shaved the outer shock towers to order to get the shock lay-low.....however, I found that really messed up the whole front suspension geometry.....

I would not do that.....besides, without the GTP rear suspension conversion like Impact or V1RR does, there is no reason to use GTP style bodies....

www.speedtechrc.com sells both bodies....

[fastharry]

just trim teh outer edges of the tower..then get one of those micro torches that have the "hot air" attachment....heat the lexan and push down.....you'll have 2 small little bumps in teh lexan...

[XXXER]

Hey Guys, what kind of starter box are you using? I plan on getting the Team Associated one, as it was designed to fit the Nitro TC3. I am sure there is past information on it, but there are also 60+ pages that I do not really want to sift through.

Thanks again for the input. I sold my Micro RS4, so I have money for the MT12 and the starter box. (oh, and I also plan on using a 12V Gel Cell)

-Steve

[speedydave]

I know Ofna makes a universal box like AE's now, with a position for the NTC3, 1/8 buggies, and 1/10 trucks or 1/8 onroad.

Continuing my early research: If I were to pick up an NTC3, should I pick up the Ofna box, AE box(I doubt there's much of a difference between them), or use one of my current boxes(Ofna black one configured for my FTGT, or Ofna blue one configured for my Mugen buggy). Also, how different will the MT12, RB X12, and OS .12 TR run in the NTC3? I know they're all very powerful, but I'm curious as to how different they put down the power. Thanks.

[Distro]

Its the box i use just that the origional wheel is terrible and gets a groove in it fast. They have a harder wheel out now though so i think it is on the newer boxes.

[trakhak]

Just save your time and get the Assoc. box. I picked one up after using a OFNA box, it was ok but the Assoc one fits like a glove. SWWWEEEET!

[jnegrx]

I have both boxes and by far the best for the ntc3 is the AE one. The ofna is a great box but i prefer the AE. As far as i know the problem with the wheel was that it was too soft but they have corrected the problem.

[CHUCKMANDO]

Has anyone tried any of the k-factory hopups yet or GH? I am more interested in performance rather than eye-candy. Also, how much of a noticeable difference does the two chamber pipe make? It is too cold in the NY to race now, and just thinking of ways not to go through withdrawals. I am still relativley new to the sport, so I do not give too much advise, but I read every day. Have learned alot from you guys.
Thanks

[coastal-tony]

HAPPY THANKSGIVING to all

[fastharry]

and to you and your's....

[Twist 2 Go]

I have a question about the frt one-ways. Previous replies I saw said to get the Yokomo version. My LHS has several one-ways in stock, how do I tell if it's the Yokomo version or the Associated one? Also, how will I need to change my driving style w/ the one-way? Thanks & HAPPY THANKSGIVING

[show2ime]

it fits perfectly. You don't need anything else. I got mine for 65.00 too. brand new.

[Distro]

Guy i know has the gh chassis on his backup car.. Thats all you need to know about the chassis.

[NTC3NUT]

CHUCKMANDO,
I have purchased parts from about everyone that makes parts for the NTC3. The GH stuff is well made and holds up great. I have the chassis & the adj. handle on my car and like them very much. You can't even compare companys like GPM, one I would not recommend. I haven't tried anything from K-Factory yet but their new fuel tank & 1-piece brake bracket/center bulkhead are both on my most wanted list. I chose the Kawahara centax due to prior experiance with their parts, their stuff is killer. One of the companies I have grown to dislike is Hardcore. I have purchased their drive shaft, brake hub, brake disc, Mutant cooling head, ti-screw kit, and a few other bits & pieces. Most, if not all, have been taken off the car and resold or given away. Too expensive & they don't perform. If your looking at a certain product, by a certain mfg., let me know. Chances are I've tried it, and I can at least offer my opinion. Happy Thanksgiving!

[johnnybp7]

One of the companies I have grown to dislike is Hardcore. I have purchased their drive shaft, brake hub, brake disc, Mutant cooling head, ti-screw kit, and a few other bits & pieces. Most, if not all, have been taken off the car and resold or given away. Too expensive & they don't perform

NTC3NUT
The one thing I have learned over the years is that performance comes first and the bottom line is that the Hardcore stuff does perform. I just recently decided to get the new O.S. 12 TR-Turbo engine and I started thinking about the drive train and how it would cope with the 1.3 hp that the engine provides so I turned too Hardcore Racing and bought the aluminium front drive input cup and the aluminium brake block input cup to strengthen up the drive train. The Hardcore parts and stronger and lighter then the stock plastic ones. As for the Ti screw kit that is a part I don't think I'd ever get because you will not get any performance increase, same with the drive shaft.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by johnnybp7
One of the companies I have grown to dislike is Hardcore. I have purchased their drive shaft, brake hub, brake disc, Mutant cooling head, ti-screw kit, and a few other bits & pieces. Most, if not all, have been taken off the car and resold or given away. Too expensive & they don't perform

NTC3NUT
The one thing I have learned over the years is that performance comes first and the bottom line is that the Hardcore stuff does perform. I just recently decided to get the new O.S. 12 TR-Turbo engine and I started thinking about the drive train and how it would cope with the 1.3 hp that the engine provides so I turned too Hardcore Racing and bought the aluminium front drive input cup and the aluminium brake block input cup to strengthen up the drive train. The Hardcore parts and stronger and lighter then the stock plastic ones. As for the Ti screw kit that is a part I don't think I'd ever get because you will not get any performance increase, same with the drive shaft.



how are you liking the turbo?.....I gotta tell you,the std TR got one heck of a write up in teh new issue of Nitro.....

[johnnybp7]

I haven't had a chance to "fully" break the engine in so I don't know yet what it can do performance wise but this engine is very sensitive to needle adjustment and as a result of that it tends to stall. Here's a picture of my car

[fastharry]

well,it should smooth out once its broken in a littlle....what I'd like to see is if those needle settings are still cranky once you get it broken in,or if its hard to adjust to avoid stalling....

the std OS's are a pleasure..if this engine is cranky like a RB turbo,I'd rather buy a RB turbo..Keep us posted

[NTC3NUT]

johnnybp7,
Well, like I said, they're just opinions. I have been using the IRS front cup & brake hub with good results. I still have the Hardcore brake disk on the car, at this point I don't know of anyone else making one (besides AE of course). I have the AE blue driveshaft back in it now, the Hardcore was to large in diameter and actually rubbed on the steering servo mount & radio tray. I talked to Hardcore about this, they knew about it and they recommended "shaving" the radio plate. I thought that was a little unacceptable. I have their ti-bumper brace on the car also. I will say that I didn't think this would hold up, but it has sustained a few heavy collisions and survived. As far as the screw kit goes, the only reason anyone would buy a ti-screw kit is for a weight savings, which again in my opinion is a performance enhancer. I also had a Ti chassis on order at my LHS for 2 or 3 months, but with all the bashing their chassis takes on these boards, and the price, I decided my money could be better spent elsewhere. You may have seen my car on this board or others before, it's my pride & joy.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
I have a question about the frt one-ways. Previous replies I saw said to get the Yokomo version. My LHS has several one-ways in stock, how do I tell if it's the Yokomo version or the Associated one? Also, how will I need to change my driving style w/ the one-way? Thanks & HAPPY THANKSGIVING

Well, quite difficult to answer, but try to:

At very first time, the unique one-way was the AE. People blamed about weak bearings (mine blow two in a row during a race, quite expensive weekend).

Some time ago, the Yokomo one was launched, the main difference between them was the large bearings and bigger core, externally at first sight the difference was the colour (blue for the AE one, silver for the Yokomo). Stopped people blaming about blowing bearings, but some people whined about stripped ring gears (defective shimming of the conical gear).

Nowadays, AE sell a 'new' one-way unit, pretty similar (if isn't the Yokomo one). Bought one with the silver core and don't blow (5 hours of run time - Knock on wood...).

Some people said that a new unit is coming from yokomo, the main difference seems that is the adjustable main gear position with different thickness shims. Haven't heard anything of this at present.

In few words: Buy the Yokomo or the AE one, whatever you want (a word of caution: if things haven't changed, the Yokomo hasn't spare parts, so if you ruin the gear, it's shot).

[Corse-R]

Anyone has used/use? I don't slam the boards, and trying to remove weight from my car (damn.... 1735 grams. 35 Upper from the limit).

Plan to use only four at first on the upper side of the bulkheads.

[CHUCKMANDO]

Thanks for the replies. I will think which way I will go over the weekend. My 2 cents on the OS TR non turbo. One of the regulars at the track where I run has it in his tc3. It seems I have a pretty noticable advantage on the low end with my rbx-12 3 port, and also at top end. I do have lightweight drivetrain on it, 2 speed etc. Gearing 21/27 and 48/54. Not sure what he is using, so I guess its not too good of a comparison. If I can find his e-mail address I will I you know. Think the wife washed in my pants though.

[NTC3NUT]

I have used ti-pillow balls from AE & Titanium Racing. The Titanium Racing balls are superior in my opinion. They use a 3mm hex wrench vs. the 5/64 for the AE balls, and look more heavy duty. They are also cheeper depending on where you buy them. My driving skills are always improving, and I have hit a few boards along the way. Here's what I've found: AE steel pillow balls break easily, AE ti-pillow balls bend & break easily, the Ti-Racing pillow balls will bend but I have not broken one yet (at least you can finish the race). You will save a ton of weight, at least 10-11g for the set. I also have used their Ti-pins thru-out, and am very happy with them. I have seen some of the racers on these boards using Mugen pillow balls, I think they are even thicker yet. You do have to drill out the arms for them to fit though. I guess you could get them in titanium also but they (Mugen) are expensive.

[Distro]

The TIR ones are alot nicer and my LHS sells em to me atleast for 10 bux a pair.. still 40 all the way around. I HAD them in the front of my car until i ripped it off in a heavy crash bending them in a U..

[rc4me2]

been comparing nitro tc's...

how does the ntc3 stack up againts mugens and serpents, or the reflex?

...one thing that didnt make sense to me, though it seems inevitable was tank placement....correct me if im wrong, but w/ the tank where it is, as it empties, balance will be affected (though little, its still a sure thing)

thanks

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by rc4me2
been comparing nitro tc's...

how does the ntc3 stack up againts mugens and serpents, or the reflex?

...one thing that didnt make sense to me, though it seems inevitable was tank placement....correct me if im wrong, but w/ the tank where it is, as it empties, balance will be affected (though little, its still a sure thing)

On my track a NTC3 is the record keeper of highest speed at the end of backstraight on race conditions (102 Km/h - About 62Mph). On very average hands the car shows their potential. The car is sturdy and reliable, maybe isn't a good loking machine, but very reliable and quick.

About the fuel tank 'issue'. I haven't noticed anything adverse on it (and my car went with more than 200 fuel tanks on it).

[XXXER]

What up guys! Well, sadly I ended up finding out that I am getting the Nitro TC3 for Christmas: This is a bad thing because it sort of ruined the surprise. Either way, I am all sorts of excited for it! I have my SG shafted, slide carb'd, RE Mt12 on it's way, along with my AE Starter Box. Tonight, I may order the rest of my stuff (Igniter, receiver, Rx pack, servo)

The body, and foam tires will have to hold off until early January. I may as well burn up the stock meats before slapping on the foams. They will do fine for break-in.

Now, the hardest part: 25 of the longest days of my life...

And counting.

-Steve

p.s. Do any of you guys run chassis protectant? Like, the stuff from AE that you stick on the bottom of you car? One of my pet peeves of Nitro ano'd chassis' is that it gets scratched, and looks crappy. Thanks for the info.

[speedydave]

I don't think anyone has posted any pics of the new AE tank, so I'll take the liberty of posting up some pics. I just bought it for my GT. I'll have a pic of it installed in a little while.

[toolcity-racer]

I have purchased the centax clutch from k factory but don't have the set up or adjustment tools. the paper for installing is not to good with all specs in millimeters. what tools do the centax clutches need to adjust them correctly.

P.S -it looks like the pilot shaft engine is the only compatable style for this clutch.

Toolcity-racer

[speedydave]

Closer up...

[fastharry]

I probably moaned the loudest about how the stock tank was OK.....I never realized how bad my RB's were behaving(they were running OK,though) untill I put the ne w tank in......alot easier to tune.....scarecely a hiccup......

[johnnybp7]

I have purchased the centax clutch from k factory but don't have the set up or adjustment tools. the paper for installing is not to good with all specs in millimeters. what tools do the centax clutches need to adjust them correctly.

The main tool is a digital caliper and you'll need a 3/32 hex screw driver

[barok1]

i need replacement parts for my ntc3.
-axle roll pins..the ones that comes with the kit are too soft. needs harder ones.

-aluminum shock locknuts. replacement for part # 6472.do use aluminum locknuts on ur swing rack assembly?

-ballcups for the throttle linkage.

i want to order them from towerhobbies but dont know what r u guys using so i can copy them coz im a newbie to this hobby. thnx in advance muah

[fastharry]

2. NEW PRODUCT: Factory Team Axle Pins

Replace your old axle pins with these for ease of use, precise fit, and
added strength when using high horsepower engines.
For the TC3, NTC3, GT, T3 and B3.

Part number and pricing:
#1654, Factory Team Axle Pins, 4, $4.00

Availability:
Available now





this was on the associated news letter......

[fastharry]

sorry for double post

[Mauibuilt888]

Can someone tell me the dimensions of the front or rear diff. Or a picture of it by a ruler or a rim or something like that.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Mauibuilt888
Can someone tell me the dimensions of the front or rear diff. Or a picture of it by a ruler or a rim or something like that.

Very difficult to describe (sorry I don't have the digital camera at hand) but here are some dimensions of the diff.

- Width 56.6mm
- Diameter of the outdrive (outer): 9.5mm
- Diameter of the outdrive (inner): 6.2mm

If you want the dimensions to compare to the diff of the TC3 i'll say that is exactly the same but a little wider (the outdrive is the same of the electric TC3).

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by barok1
i need replacement parts for my ntc3.
-axle roll pins..the ones that comes with the kit are too soft. needs harder ones.

-aluminum shock locknuts. replacement for part # 6472.do use aluminum locknuts on ur swing rack assembly?

-ballcups for the throttle linkage.

i want to order them from towerhobbies but dont know what r u guys using so i can copy them coz im a newbie to this hobby. thnx in advance muah

Regarding the axle roll pins is the first time I hear something about it and used extensively the AE CVD's (more than 1600 packs on TC3, more than 200 tanks on NTC3) and where all my CVD's are killed is on the pin that joins the CVD with the axle (pin too thin and strips the aluminium).

For the steering rack and shocks I use the plastic ones, very inexpensive to use and replace (ever I have a bag handy on my tool box to substitute). Never tried to use aluminiun nuts on the steering swing rack.

The ballcups for throttle linkage are fairly standard ones, if you can't find the original ones, buy from other manufacturers, cos are standarized size.

[barok1]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Regarding the axle roll pins is the first time I hear something about it and used extensively the AE CVD's (more than 1600 packs on TC3, more than 200 tanks on NTC3) and where all my CVD's are killed is on the pin that joins the CVD with the axle (pin too thin and strips the aluminium).

For the steering rack and shocks I use the plastic ones, very inexpensive to use and replace (ever I have a bag handy on my tool box to substitute). Never tried to use aluminiun nuts on the steering swing rack.

The ballcups for throttle linkage are fairly standard ones, if you can't find the original ones, buy from other manufacturers, cos are standarized size.

thnx corse r ...u2 fastharry...im still reading all the post on this ntc3 thread...70 pps ...wow that means this is a very popular car!cant blame us hehe

[us_matrix]

Hi,

Where i can get the Ti-pillow balls online? What about Mugen? You have the model no. for Mugen? Is the Mugen fit right on? I tried AE's Titanium ball and steel but they both bend very easily.

Thanks.
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
I have used ti-pillow balls from AE & Titanium Racing. The Titanium Racing balls are superior in my opinion. They use a 3mm hex wrench vs. the 5/64 for the AE balls, and look more heavy duty. They are also cheeper depending on where you buy them. My driving skills are always improving, and I have hit a few boards along the way. Here's what I've found: AE steel pillow balls break easily, AE ti-pillow balls bend & break easily, the Ti-Racing pillow balls will bend but I have not broken one yet (at least you can finish the race). You will save a ton of weight, at least 10-11g for the set. I also have used their Ti-pins thru-out, and am very happy with them. I have seen some of the racers on these boards using Mugen pillow balls, I think they are even thicker yet. You do have to drill out the arms for them to fit though. I guess you could get them in titanium also but they (Mugen) are expensive.

[Distro]

you can get the TIR ones at speedtech r/c, teh mugen ones will not fit they are too big.

[fuse01]

Anyone knows how to mount a lola body on a NTC3? is there any picts out there? or any good advise?


thanks

[NTC3NUT]

Yeah, With the Mugen balls you have to drill out the arms. I've never used them, other guys on this thread have. I think the MTX-2 balls are the ones they're using, not 100% sure though.?? Buy theTi-Racing balls from Speedtech, they work great.

[barok1]

NTC3NUT what kind of air filter oil are u using on ur k&n air filter? i spilled on the floor the oil that comes with the kit.thnx

[NTC3NUT]

K&N oil & cleaner. Go to a auto parts store and buy the big bottles for the auto air cleaners, those bottles will last a LONG time. I'm sure there's other stuff you could use, maybe someone here can suggest something.

[Rookie Solara]

I am too excited......just receive my PCM 3PK (Ok, it is off-topic here, sorry)......it is NOT that heavy compare to my old school Futaba "BOX" gun.......but I have to say this......that steering wheel is butt ugly, but one more good items, the optional OFFSET wheel adaptor is INCLUDED in the package, it is OPTIONAL to use, but it is including with the package.

Yes, I use ONLY the K&N oil/cleaning pack for the K&N filter as well......I think they are $5.00 for both (Oil and cleaning spray).....I have 2 sets because I have a K&N Cold Air Intake on my real car....you can oil and clean the filter PER SEASON....not like every race like the foam one.....much better and safe lots of times.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/3pk-01.jpg

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I am too excited......just receive my PCM 3PK (Ok, it is off-topic here, sorry)......it is NOT that heavy compare to my old school Futaba "BOX" gun.......but I have to say this......that steering wheel is butt ugly, but one more good items, the optional OFFSET wheel adaptor is INCLUDED in the package, it is OPTIONAL to use, but it is including with the package.

Just a word of caution: if you use the 'HR' type receiver, better stick to futaba digital servos, I've heard horror stories about non futaba digital servos not functioning or going crazy with this type of receiver.

I got burned when I changed my trusty Mars to the new Mars-R and needed to buy a second KO receiver specific for this transmitter (none of my LRP receivers worked with). Off-topic mode off.

Just a question, cos I'm having problems with the flywheel collet. I dissasembled my clutch (needing a new flywheel) and removed the conical collet, can someone give me the measure of their collet (have several sizes, but seemed that none fits correctly).

Planning to screw a little my Sirio to get more HP :D (next week I'll remove one of the two shims), anyone using Sirios rather than me or I'm alone?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Corse-R
[B]Just a word of caution: if you use the 'HR' type receiver, better stick to futaba digital servos, I've heard horror stories about non futaba digital servos not functioning or going crazy with this type of receiver.

I got burned when I changed my trusty Mars to the new Mars-R and needed to buy a second KO receiver specific for this transmitter (none of my LRP receivers worked with). Off-topic mode off.
B]

Yeah, I did my homework before I gave up my old school Futaba BOX-GUN........KO Mars-R was my choice when I was in HK (because it is $150 only).....just like what you said, the R version has its own receiver....and only work with the R Trans only...

Again, this 3PK can work on my old KO and Futaba 40 mhz receiver........it is because I am getting the PCM version (you can switch the transmitter from PCM to FM internally) with the R113iP receiver.......

However, if you are getting the TOP OF THE LINE "HRS" with the "R203HF".......you must use Futaba's own digital servos, and that "R203HF" receiver will only works with the 3PK with HRS......no other transmitter can work with that receiver.......if you have 2-3 more cars with FM receiver, you must get the PCM/FM Modulation..........

If you want more info, please read the 3PK manual online, it tells you everything about this radio.......

http://www.futaba-rc.com/radios/futj32.html

Yeah, I think I will get myself a Sirio engine for ROAR legal race.....I think for $150, nothing should goes wrong for that engine.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Does anybody know if the pilot shaft version of the roar siro fits in the ntc3 (i saw one post where a person said it wouldnt fit) and do u reccommend the siro to someone for their 3rd engine. also does anybody know how its is in terms of reliability, ease of tuning and life?

Thanx

[show2ime]

The sg shaft or the threaded version will fit the ntc3. Corse r, I cut my collet down to 4mm. The nps 3 shoe flywheels' hole is too small to get over the collet at full length.

[Distro]

Their is a problem with the sirio with the collet with the picco and sirio engines. Also anyone try out the 350z body yet?

[Pro3/nmt105]

so will this engine fit? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKX7&P=K

[Distro]

Yes it will fit but the collet that comes with the kit (which you have to use) doesn't like picco engies, but i'm sure someone here can suggest how to remedy that.

[Unregistered]

When I installed a Picco .15 in my T- Maxx, I put 2 glow plug washers behind the collet to get it to fit tightly

[Rookie Solara]

I am not exactly sure the problem is, but that happened to my Super Nitro when I install the SG crank engine on her.....

I think the collet that you guys should use are the GOLD colored one by Serpent, Assoicated or Mugen......but the problem is, (just like my HPI) the collet might be too LONG for the NTC3 flywheel.......so the tapered end of the collet cannot be completely mashed with the flywheel.......solution is shaved the end of the collet a little (you have to use the colaper to see how much to shave....2-4mm maybe)......that happened to my SG crank engine on the HPI flywheel......and works perfectly.

SG crank or standard crank both works on NTC3 by using its own flywheel locknuts only.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by show2ime
The sg shaft or the threaded version will fit the ntc3. Corse r, I cut my collet down to 4mm. The nps 3 shoe flywheels' hole is too small to get over the collet at full length.

The problem:

- Stock Sirio collet: too long.
- Stock JP collet: Too short.
- Associated collet: Fits correctly, but the sirio crank 'too long'.

Seems that the Sirio thread of the crank (the external, where the nut of the flywheel attaches) is slightly longer and when tightened correctly, one part of the thread protrudes by the other side and don't permit a correct position of the shims and the bearing, displacing all the set one millimeter and needing some different screw on the crank end to support all the assembly.

The correct fix: Went to a milling shop to remove 1mm of the external thread.

The quick fix (what I'm using actually): change the screw for a 3mm countersunk one and use a dab of threadlock to secure it.

Third fix (a better one rather than milling the crank): Change the stock internal bearing of 5x10x4mm to a one of 5x10x3mm and everything fits as like on the manual.

The 'quick fix' works perfectly, in fact it survived more than 5 hours of engine running on my Sirio. I'll try to post an image of it for someone who faced this problem.

[Pro3/nmt105]

well does the standerd crank fit without mods cause i dont have a milling shop to remove some of the threads and id really llike to avoid having to do mods.

[Pro3/nmt105]

in the quick fix how does the 3mm countersunk screw fix it and in the third fix is the idea fit to have a bearing with a larger inner diameter that fits over the threads? and has this been done sucessfully? oh and for these fixes do u still have to grind down the collet?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Corse-R
The problem:

- Stock Sirio collet: too long.
- Stock JP collet: Too short.
- Associated collet: Fits correctly, but the sirio crank 'too long'.



I am trying to help and understand here as well, cause I might have a Sirio for my NTC3 in the future.........if you are saying the Sirio problem on NTC3 is because the CRANK is too long after you inserted the Associated collet with Associated flywheel........I think adding some spacer/shims like Serpent Centax does is the best fix..........

Serpent Centax has the same problem, it is not really a problem, it is actually Centax designed that way........by adding those shims (again, you have to figure out how thick and how many shims to add on) you are pushing the collet further away from the engine, on the other hand, it means less thread on the shaft, so without shaving or milling or whatever, that should work.

I am sure I am missing something here and there or misunderstood something........please post some pictures and we can start from there............

I always thought SG crank is always SG crank......standard is always standard........I think Trinity thought that Sirio need to be bigger and "LONGER" then the others...........:D

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
in the quick fix how does the 3mm countersunk screw fix it and in the third fix is the idea fit to have a bearing with a larger inner diameter that fits over the threads? and has this been done sucessfully? oh and for these fixes do u still have to grind down the collet?

On the quick fix, you need to change the allen screw that comes with the kit (round head) for the countersunk, on mine case I got a steel one from a Tamiya kit and installed without problems (3x8 countersunk head if i'm not wrong).

I'll post some photos of to try to clarify. On this message I post the one who shows the threads on the crank (not modified).

[Corse-R]

Here's the second photo, the one with the bell installed. If you pay attention to the Sirio Crank, you'll see a little chamfer on the end of the crank, with this little chamfer you can put safely a countersunk screw and grip on the crank rather than gripping on the ball bearing.

Put a little of threadlock on the screw before mounting to secure all to nasty screw loosening during use of the car.

I try to find a suitable 5x10x3 Ball bearing to substitute the ones who go at the inner side of the clutch bell. If it's found, the clutch bell goes into their place and isn't needed this mod and you can assemble normally the clutch on the Sirio.

I'm writing an e-mail to the Sirio makes to asure that they're aware of this and correct it on future series of the engine.

[Distro]

Do you still shim the screw?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Distro
Do you still shim the screw?

Nope, no shim on the screw (If I shim is like to use to stock round head screw), the screw touches the crank and supports in place the bearing of the clutch bell.

Hope that this photo clarifies this.

[TAW]

Did I see someone post about an updated front one way a while back, if so does anyone know the part # and if its more reliable than the first one?

Thanks

[Pro3/nmt105]

can u please clarify exactly what the countersunk screw does. Is it that the bearing sticks a little over the end of the shaft so u use the counter sunk screw because it will contack the crankshaft and only the inner portion of the bearing? and if this is true in this setup do u use the stock bearing of the other one you mentioned?

Is it that with the bearing with the larger inner diameter in the inner part of the clutchbell, u dont need to use the countersunk screw and the outer bearing will be in the right place at the end of the shaft(flush with it id guess) and not sticking out a little farther than the shaft so u can use the stock screw?

Thanks for the help I just want to be sure i completly understand this before i go out and buy this engine.

[Pro3/nmt105]

oh wait so ure saying that u change the inner bearing to a thinner one to make up for it not being able to go over the threading and have everything fit correctly? i think i get it am i right? you know of a place where i could buy one of these bearings i searched on tower with out any results and is it a flanged bearing? also do u know of the size of the bearing in standerd US measurement? thats what all the bearings on tower seem to be

Thanx

[Pro3/nmt105]

oh if i do one of these which collet do i use and does it require me to shave it down or somthing?

[Pro3/nmt105]

will these fit? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBJW3&P=7
oh another question does the clutch nut that comes with the ntc3 kit fit the sirio

[show2ime]

i just drilled out the flywheel on my 3 shoe nps flywheel and it fits fine. My brother bought a sg .12 flywheel from wolfpack radicals and he is str8 now too. it has the larger hole for sg sgafted .12's ans .21 engines. its vented and fits right on his sirios' crank. i have 1 coming...

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
will these fit? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBJW3&P=7
oh another question does the clutch nut that comes with the ntc3 kit fit the sirio

Nope, use the collet that comes with the car, and use ONE like I said, works for sure (I tested yesterday some quick tanks), Friday I'll do a more intensive test and order some BB's to try to make the modification with a thinner BB on the inside of the clutch bell and the stock rh screw.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
oh wait so ure saying that u change the inner bearing to a thinner one to make up for it not being able to go over the threading and have everything fit correctly? i think i get it am i right? you know of a place where i could buy one of these bearings i searched on tower with out any results and is it a flanged bearing? also do u know of the size of the bearing in standerd US measurement? thats what all the bearings on tower seem to be

In one word: Yes.

The bearing on Tower aren't all on US measures, the ones you showed me are on millimeters.

To try to clarificate, I posted three possible solutions:
- Shaving the crank.
- Using the stock BB's and using a countersunk screw (the one I used and showed).
- Using a different inner BB with 1 millimeter less to cope with the slightly different situation on the Sirio (use a 5x10x3 milimeter rather than the stock 5x10x4 milimeter BB).

You 'mixed' two possible solutions (#2 and #3). Use one or other, I'll try to test the #3 solution next week (I'll order those bearings and try) and post what solution I find more interesting.

[NTC3Fan]

What reciever pack will fit into my NTC3 (like the trinity ones)

[NTC3Fan]

I got it last night!!!! so awsome!!!!!!
Gonna finish building tonight!!!

One awsome kit...

One Q: my camber looks like its got + Camber on all 4 and i set the pivot balls with the gauge correctly... Any ideas?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
What reciever pack will fit into my NTC3 (like the trinity ones)

All type of receiver packs should work, but, best to put is the off-road type (5 cells side by side).

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
One Q: my camber looks like its got + Camber on all 4 and i set the pivot balls with the gauge correctly... Any ideas?

Make sure you didn't get the steering knuckle upside down (I don't think they are cause they are the same).....

The guage measurment are for all LOWER arms only.......the upper parts is set due to the road condition (turn them INWARD to get negative camber, the lower pivot stay as default)

[Distro]

It does sound like his steering knuckles are all upside down. As when you look at the the top part of the knuckle should be bigger then the lower part, you know you have it right when you have it set right this way.

[EngenZerO]

wow, I have been gone a long time, 70+ pages... :eek: . Last I remembered it was around 50, :). I was looking out side (at the 6 inch snow) during my CIS class and was thinking, I cant wait till this spring to break out my baby again and it hit me I have been logged on since Sept...ahhhh!!!

So...what have I missed? Any worth while optional parts come out since september? I know of the new tank. Also any new bullet proofing mods? Also, what happened with the HPI forums...I see Rookie, Nut, and Harry posting here now? LOL, I am sooo out of the loop. Also, what happened in the Hong Kong Int race...Barry placed 10th? What happened to his ride? Ugh! I gotta keep ontop of my news! LOL, enough with the 20 questions...gonna try to keep up like I use to, :)

Ozzie

[fastharry]

I'm posting here...there have been no running changes to teh tc3..talked to Don yesterday.......Except for the tank.....which,BTW,is 100% better running than the old one...and I never even thought the old design was a problem.....Till I ran teh new one....it seems like my RB''s are easier to tune...and don't suffer from the dreaded(clear it and stall) hiiccups any more....

to bad I had to stop running the car....(its getting cold in NJ)....but even when I'm racing rally at Barnstormers in NY,all I think about is that Tc3....

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Make sure you didn't get the steering knuckle upside down (I don't think they are cause they are the same).....

The guage measurment are for all LOWER arms only.......the upper parts is set due to the road condition (turn them INWARD to get negative camber, the lower pivot stay as default)

Ahh okay... the steering knuckes arent upside down... i used the gauge to set both the upper and lower arms... all is cool now....
U shud see how sexy it looks now.. Got my Vectra Shell in Total black with white Gumby Wheels... Perfect match made in heaven lol!!!!:D :D :D

Thnxs for the help all...
Now the $$$ part - still need radio gear and engine

[NTC3Fan]

How much camber can u get on the NTC3???
like -2 or more??

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by EngenZerO
Also, what happened in the Hong Kong Int race...Barry placed 10th? What happened to his ride? Ugh! I gotta keep ontop of my news! LOL, enough with the 20 questions...gonna try to keep up like I use to, :)Ozzie

Yeah....HPI ppl still have their Summer vacation......(8-12 months long delay)......god knows what the forum it will be.......

I can do the HK international report regarding Barry Baker......well, I think he is the only PRO level driver from the WEST on this event, the rest are the Japanese National Team (representing their products like Kyosho and Mugen) and HK Local Team driver.....not too many NTC3, since belt drives are more popular oversea.......V1RR everywhere as well as MTX-3 for team driver.....of couse, Snake King (serpent) in HK ran with his new 705 (he is Serpent Team Driver in HK).....

Barry actually did very good in qualifiers.....1st and TQ all the way, except the main.........he broke the TRANS because he did modified the clutch bell, and where heavy usage, the bell start changing shape and got engaged on 1st gear only, later, shaved the spur gears.....took him 15 minutes to drop in the new 2-speed gear box and clutch gears (all 4)......that explained the LAST FINISH...but he still took the TQ.

And again, he was the fastest driver on the track that day.......just ran out of luck on MAIN.

Team Kyosho and V1RR designer took the 1st.......the Impulse PRO (not 705) and some MTX took the rest........705 owner reported someone STOLE his race engine at the track, that is really really bad.

http://www.rcmodel.com.hk/lb5000/usr/18/18_1069_80.jpg

http://www.rcmodel.com.hk/lb5000/usr/18/18_1069_81.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
How much camber can u get on the NTC3???
like -2 or more??

I have -1 on front and -2 rear.........but that depends on the trackion on the track......the more trackion you've got, the less camber you need to apply.

Also, that depends on the tires too........rubber vs foam?

Use the owners manuel as a default setting........for both rubber and foam tires setting.......

[NTC3Fan]

What Engine/Radio combo u using???
Just outta interest...:D :D

[Distro]

HPI couldn't afford the forums anymore so they made cuts., option part wise since september i haven't seen anything new.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
What Engine/Radio combo u using???
Just outta interest...:D :D

Tar tar...............

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/3pk-01.jpg

with 9101 and 9404 anaology servos (it was on my Impulse and Impact before, 3 .5 years, still like new)

Engine wise, it was OS .12 CVR, then MT-12, then RS-12 T5 Turbo....duel chamber pipe.

[NTC3Fan]

Wow thats some good looking shite...
Wish i had the $$$
stuff is so expensive here i'm forced to buy from like tower etc..

Anyway great equipment Rookie...

[Dava]

That radio is the most awful thing I have ever seen....
I hope that costs less than $20.... ja ja ja

[tallyrc]

anybody run one of these new serios or roar wasps, are they fast do you all like them

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Nope, use the collet that comes with the car, and use ONE like I said, works for sure (I tested yesterday some quick tanks), Friday I'll do a more intensive test and order some BB's to try to make the modification with a thinner BB on the inside of the clutch bell and the stock rh screw.
u think those are the right bearings the 3mm is the height not the width it seems the standerd size is 4mm wide and thats what everyone sells ill ask at my lhs. did u use the clutch nut that came with the kit? How is the sirio as far as ease of tuning and does urs show any signs of wear of loss of compression yet.

Thanks for all the help i really appriciate it im thinking about orderding one in a few days

[nmt6789]

Hey, iam probably getting a ntc3 for christmas, but i dont know what to get with it.

What engine do you suggest for a intermediate racer??
Also what tools do you use? What sizes?

[XXXER]

Hey guys, I am making progress! My Engine and Starter box were not ordered until this Monday (why my owner waited so long, I haven't the slightest) so it is looking like Monday, but if my numbers match up right, they will come in tomorrow (not bloody likely). My Nitro TC3 is here, and I am now looking at 19 more days. I am not really looking into racing, so my body of choice will be the HPI BMW M3 body. It is just too stinking cool.

As for the guts:
Engine: Mugen MT12 SG shaft, Slide carb
Tx/Rx: JR XR2, Std. Rx
Servos: Standard throttle/brake, 5625 for steering (mind you, I will not be racing, just playing around)
Rx pack: Team Orion 1100mah flat pack
Tires: Treadz Foams (on the way)
Starter Box: Team Associated.

[Distro]

I really do like the 350z body, hard to get to the fuel tank compared to some cars. Though i have not actually drove the car with the body on yet but it does have a big wing, car looks like it should be very stable.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
u think those are the right bearings the 3mm is the height not the width it seems the standerd size is 4mm wide and thats what everyone sells ill ask at my lhs. did u use the clutch nut that came with the kit? How is the sirio as far as ease of tuning and does urs show any signs of wear of loss of compression yet.

Nope, the 5x10x4 are the standard size ones, I need a 5x10x3 for install on the inner of the clutch bell b/c the small portion of the thread that protrudes from the nut gets this milimeter.

Have this bearings on order at my LHS (bs... are on backorder. ETA is 15 days).

My Sirio have actually 4 litres of fuel (custom blended at my LHS) and the unique I can say is.... sweeet, pulls very strong, the carb adjustment is a breeze (totally I recomend for newbies in carb tunning), compression is still OK, I'll continue all this winter with this engine up to the starting of the season on my country (April) and before this i'll put a new piston and sleeve.

From the first tank, the only I can say about the Sirio are pretty words, maybe isn't as powerful as JP Racing engines, but keeps the pace pretty well.

P.S: I checked one of the 'mods' on the NTC3 cars at the worlds. Changing the pressure intake from the first to the second chamber. Fuel economy is the answer (one tank at race speeds lasted 7 minutes, engine at 93ºC ), but, a slight loss on the high rpm side is present. If you have fuel problems, try on the second chamber.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by nmt6789
Hey, iam probably getting a ntc3 for christmas, but i dont know what to get with it.
What engine do you suggest for a intermediate racer??
Also what tools do you use? What sizes?

About the engine, is up to you in personal prefs. My engines are a Sirio ROAR, a JP 12 and a RB. The most bang for the buck is the Sirio, but as I said is up to you choosing a engine, maybe if you get an RB or Novarrosi, you get very good motors.

Before assembling the car, the best sugestion is to get some decent allen wrenches from a reputable mfg (Hudy, AE, Trinity, Losi, Bondhus, snap-on) on this sizes:

0.050 - Only used on the throttle assembly (had previously from electric cars).
1/16" - Mainly used on the car.
5/64" - Used for some screws on the chassis and engine mounts.
3/32" - Mainly used on the car.

From the bag of allen keys you got on the car, only one is needed, the 5/64" (you'll recognize this because is shorter) needed to adjust the diffs without disassembling assembling none keep it to adjust your diffs, the rest you can send to the trash without any kind of problems.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by XXXER
I am not really looking into racing, so my body of choice will be the HPI BMW M3 body. It is just too stinking cool.

Servos: Standard throttle/brake, 5625 for steering (mind you, I will not be racing, just playing around)

Some ideas: All bodies are different on handling, never tested HPI M3, but I suggest to you to get the Stratus as their handling is previsible and is mainly used for racing.

Regarding the car, you may need to do a little mod on the steering, get the 6587 bag and use this spring besides the stock one, you improve your steering servo saver. The rest of mods appeared on this thread are up to you, but another highly interesting is to use the hard clutch springs.

[flsurf420]

ok in the jan 2003 issue of RCCA they did a reveiw for the AE NTC3. they said it would do like 46.5 mph. how much more speed will i get from a 2speed. soon i might upgrade it to aluminum but for now just the 2speed. is it worth 60 bucks?

[EngenZerO]

Sweet thanks for the updates guys...

Has anyone tried the captured tie ends from I think it was GPM? I think I am gonna grab a set of these this spring...

Ozzie

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by flsurf420
ok in the jan 2003 issue of RCCA they did a reveiw for the AE NTC3. they said it would do like 46.5 mph. how much more speed will i get from a 2speed. soon i might upgrade it to aluminum but for now just the 2speed. is it worth 60 bucks?

i nearly fell on the floor when i read that about the tc3 rtr. yes the two speed would be worth it imo.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by flsurf420
ok in the jan 2003 issue of RCCA they did a reveiw for the AE NTC3. they said it would do like 46.5 mph. how much more speed will i get from a 2speed. soon i might upgrade it to aluminum but for now just the 2speed. is it worth 60 bucks?

Uhm.... the speed increase can be interesting, but with a 2 speed gearbox, you'll gain in acceleration more than top end (1st gear shorter, 2nd larger), but this needs to be accompained with a powerful motor.

The top NTC3 on speed are getting 60 or 62Mph (quite impressive speeds), maybe with a 2speed you'll reach 50 or 52, who is a noticeable speed bump.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by EngenZerO
Sweet thanks for the updates guys...

Has anyone tried the captured tie ends from I think it was GPM? I think I am gonna grab a set of these this spring...

Ozzie

Hee hee.....GPM again.......? Trust me, stay away from them...I think the only USALBE parts I got from them are the alum. upper arm, which is PAIN to adjust but a hair better then OEM plastic.

The rest..............GARBAGE or Eye candy.

I used the Serpent tie ends, their end balls and plastic are a lot stronger........and I use the Ti-adjustable tie-rod.

[us_matrix]

Hi,

Has anyone of you tried the K-factory 3 shoes clutch? I am using the stock 2 shoes clutch w/MT-12 engine. Will this 3 shoes clutch give better take off or better performance?
What is the best gears combination for take off and top end ?


http://www.kfactoryracing.com/products/k1238.htm

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Hi,

Has anyone of you tried the K-factory 3 shoes clutch? I am using the stock 2 shoes clutch w/MT-12 engine. Will this 3 shoes clutch give better take off or better performance?
What is the best gears combination for take off and top end ?

Regarding the three shoe clutch, I have the AE ones and not liked, stick with the two shoes, maybe is lack of accustoming to it and setup, but my lap times hurted and returned to the two ones.

The best gear combination for take off and performance, depends on many parameters: your track and track conditions, your engine, your setup, but people likes to use 20/26 or 21/27 with 54/48 spurs. Many times isn't a matter of gearing is a matter of clutch and shifting adjustment, but that gear ratio if you run on a fairly large track should work pretty well (.

[NTC3Fan]

Here it is...

If u cant see the image ( AngelFire Pic) heres a direct link...


http://www.angelfire.com/freak/bevan2002_3/Images/Top_Angle.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/freak/bevan2002_3/Images/Top_Angle.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/freak/bevan2002_3/Images/Side1.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/freak/bevan2002_3/Images/Side1.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/freak/bevan2002_3/Images/Side2.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/freak/bevan2002_3/Images/Side2.JPG

Just waitin on my engine and Electrics 2 arrive..

Cheers
Bevan

[flsurf420]

thanks:D

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Nope, the 5x10x4 are the standard size ones, I need a 5x10x3 for install on the inner of the clutch bell b/c the small portion of the thread that protrudes from the nut gets this milimeter.

Have this bearings on order at my LHS (bs... are on backorder. ETA is 15 days).

My Sirio have actually 4 litres of fuel (custom blended at my LHS) and the unique I can say is.... sweeet, pulls very strong, the carb adjustment is a breeze (totally I recomend for newbies in carb tunning), compression is still OK, I'll continue all this winter with this engine up to the starting of the season on my country (April) and before this i'll put a new piston and sleeve.

From the first tank, the only I can say about the Sirio are pretty words, maybe isn't as powerful as JP Racing engines, but keeps the pace pretty well.

P.S: I checked one of the 'mods' on the NTC3 cars at the worlds. Changing the pressure intake from the first to the second chamber. Fuel economy is the answer (one tank at race speeds lasted 7 minutes, engine at 93ºC ), but, a slight loss on the high rpm side is present. If you have fuel problems, try on the second chamber.
what do u mean by ok cause after a gallon i wouldnt like to have a great loss of compression and also how much nitro content do u run cause i figure i use 20% so i u use higher i figure my engine will last longer.

Thanx

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
what do u mean by ok cause after a gallon i wouldnt like to have a great loss of compression and also how much nitro content do u run cause i figure i use 20% so i u use higher i figure my engine will last longer.

My Sirio don't locks at PMS and maintains almost the original compression (of course, if I say that maintains 100% of compression, I lie).

My fuel is pretty straightforward: 16% Nitro, 8% Klotz synthetic, 2% Klotz Castor oil (BëNol) and the rest Methanol (How I know? Because almost all I help to blend the fuel at my LHS) and using every weekend (or almost every weekend fresh fuel).

Engine don't have deposits unburned and it maintains the original sleeve and piston color.

When I said that I maintain this piston and sleeve is because I want to start the season with a fresh engine and for sure that the actual when it's time should be pretty worn.

[XXXER]

Corse-R, thanks for the tip on the Servo, I will definitely keep that in mind.

I do know about how the Stratus is the ultimate hoopty when it comes to Sedans (I don't live under a freaking rock!). I just think the BMW bod is sexy.

Could you go into more detail on the Servo saver?

-Steve

[need4speed4]

hey, i kno that the ntc3 will do 60-65 (maybe more) with a sirio .12 or RB X12, but i dont want to spend that much cash unless i need to, so I was thinkin if a Fantom FR12 will make it go that fast (41,700rpm, 1.15hp)?

Thanks

[bubbastump]

servo saver they r nice if u loose signal u can program to goto full brake

[barok1]

what do u think of this guys? i found it on ebay?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by XXXER
Corse-R, thanks for the tip on the Servo, I will definitely keep that in mind.

Could you go into more detail on the Servo saver?

Very simple: on the AE #6587 bag you'll get a spring an a nut, use the spring on the bag instead the one that comes in the kit. It's stiffer and don't need to crank too much the screw like happens with the stock servo saver spring (and If you do, much probably rubs with the front shaft coupling.

[fuse01]

any good advise on how to mod the rear linkage?

those tie-rods for toe in and otoe out at the rear? please advise

pics if possible.

thanks.

[DOOD]

barok1(nice name): What pipe brand is that? Thanks alot, now I gotta spend more money! I always wanted a "standard .12 pipe on a NTC3 and se how it works.:D

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by fuse01
any good advise on how to mod the rear linkage?

those tie-rods for toe in and otoe out at the rear? please advise

I know 'what you're wanting and saying'... you saw those photo where appears the rear toe-in links with nuts to reinforce and not loose the adjustment. None is doing by the moment... working on two parts for my NTC3, a hollow brake cam (really, I don't see much future to this part, this morning tested and broke two in a row) and the second are those arms, my main problem is to find a reverse thread - if I find is very easy to do some arms.

My best advice actually: Don't slam the boards, driving at 80% 20 consecutive laps gives much better laptimes than 3 laps at 100%.

[barok1]

Originally posted by DOOD
barok1(nice name): What pipe brand is that? Thanks alot, now I gotta spend more money! I always wanted a "standard .12 pipe on a NTC3 and se how it works.:D

sorry but i dont know its brand.i dont know anything about it either.i posted it here so that maybe someone knows anything about it.its still up for auction on ebay.

[Pro3/nmt105]

i dont think i will be good for high end but it will have lots of low end cause of that really long hedar

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by barok1
what do u think of this guys? i found it on ebay?

Yes, I saw that in HK back like 2 months ago......it is NOT as good as you think because it lost a lot of low-end on this pipe (due to the LONG header, you can compare the header to the regular header).

Most ppl like to make the header shorter.....but this design is actually longer.....NOT GOOD.

I will stick with the Dual Chamber pipe.....there is reason AE designed that pipe in that shape and the header is SHORT.

[Pro3/nmt105]

u loose high end not lowend. a short hedar gives u more highend and less low-end that why the t-maxx big tube hedar is pretty long for more torque. people shorten their headers for more top-end.

[ritchies rc10gt]

i just ordered a NTC3,and got a fantom FR15 for it.i dont feel like reading through the whole thread so heres my question,do i have to cut the crank and if so how much and is it the same amout that i cut off for the RC10GT?id like to break the engine in on my GT if i could,just to see how good it is.

heres a pic of the FR15

[nitrodemon]

NEED4SPEED4
I'm running a fantom .12 in my ntc3 and It really does haul. Lots of low end punch and tops out with some good speed. Still using the stock gears and I'm guessing somewhere in the mid to high thirtys. With more tuning and changing gears, I'm sure that it can reach upper 50s.

[JFawwaz]

which engine is better for the ntc3? the collari picco XS12 (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_118_119&products_id=2531) with pull start or the Novarossi Top CT12PS1 (slide carb, pull start, standard crank, side exhaust)

do you know where the lowest prices are to buy these engines and the lowest price to buy an ntc3?

thanks:D

[NTC3Fan]

How much fluid must i put in the threaded shock body, and how much must be put into the cap???

How shud the shocks feel without the springs once its done...

All the help will be appreciated...

Bevan

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
How much fluid must i put in the threaded shock body, and how much must be put into the cap???

How shud the shocks feel without the springs once its done...

I charge my shocks from a little different way from the very very ancient days of the original RC10.

Put oil on the shock body, when almost filled, remove all air bubbles pushing and pulling a little the shock shaft - a few milimeters will do the work - (if the shocks need to rest several minutes, I wait for).

When all the bubbles are gone I continue to fill the shock body. The surface tension of the oil permits to have a little of more oil (forms a little bump over the edge of the shock body. I don't put oil on the shock cap (too messy for me).

Cap the end and try to assemble at least one more (you need to have two pretty similar).

[flsurf420]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
i just ordered a NTC3,and got a fantom FR15 for it.i dont feel like reading through the whole thread so heres my question,do i have to cut the crank and if so how much and is it the same amout that i cut off for the RC10GT?id like to break the engine in on my GT if i could,just to see how good it is.

heres a pic of the FR15

is that mountain dew in that glass. i have the same one and it is my "mountain dew" glass. lol just wodering:p

[rc4me2]

whats the diff b/t the "side exhaust, pullstart" version and the "rear exhaust non-pull" version other than the opening in the chassis so the pull can set lower, the manifold, and the pipe?

my concern is this...will i be able to easily change from a side exh non-pull to a rear exh non pull w/ just the corresponding manifold and pipe, or will i need to do other stuff too?

thanks

[frank13]

the chasis arent diff,, the mounts for the motor and the fly wheel are .. so if goin to side to rear you should ,, but dont have to change teh mounts and the flywheel to lower the engine for better handling,, or just change the exhaust and all it a day ,,


frank13

[frank13]

ok ia m having to make the descision to buy a setup station

the hudy ultimate or the integy alignment station , its not about price because the integy althogh cheaper ,, still needsthe board and the droop gauges and ride hieght gauges ,, so it evens out,, has any one used either and if you do use the integy ,, can u post pics of your car on it,, the reason why i ask that is becusae i haev sen the hudy being used but i have never ever seen the integy system in use,,
and how do u feel about integy tools,, allens and such
any help will be helpful

frank13

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
i just ordered a NTC3,and got a fantom FR15 for it.i dont feel like reading through the whole thread so heres my question,do i have to cut the crank and if so how much and is it the same amout that i cut off for the RC10GT?id like to break the engine in on my GT if i could,just to see how good it is.

heres a pic of the FR15

Someone has to know this. My friend is gonna run a fantom 15 in his TC3 as well so I too am lookin for an answer. C'mon peeps, what the scoop on this?

[nmt6789]

What is a good .12 engine for the ntc3? Also i need a good starter box for cheap.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by nmt6789
What is a good .12 engine for the ntc3? Also i need a good starter box for cheap.

Cheap .12 engine - OS .12 CVR. ($110)
Race engine and cheap - MT-12 from Mugen (Nova Rossi $160)

Starter box for NTC3 - CHEAP = TROUBLE, spend some money on the NTC3 starter box by Team Associated ($75) plus (2) 7.2C batteries ($30), still $30 cheaper then my old Serpent Power Start.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by frank13
ok ia m having to make the descision to buy a setup station

the hudy ultimate or the integy alignment station , its not about price because the integy althogh cheaper ,, still needsthe board and the droop gauges and ride hieght gauges ,, so it evens out,, has any one used either and if you do use the integy ,, can u post pics of your car on it,, the reason why i ask that is becusae i haev sen the hudy being used but i have never ever seen the integy system in use,,
and how do u feel about integy tools,, allens and such
any help will be helpful

frank13

Definitely the Integy one.........(1)I will not pay $100 plus dollar for some cheap clear plastic. (2)I have difficult time to read the white numbers and bars on a clear plastic under the sun-lights or spot lights......you can try that, but I will never use $100 plsu dollar to try. (3) the guages are the same, Hudy is just the name, nothing special......(4) It is about the money afterall, Integy is like $20-30 cheaper.....

Make sure get the Hudy board and 1/8th (not 1/10th scale) sticker for the base, it will work in 1/10 touring car as well for the same price.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/serpent/impulsepro/front01.jpg

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/serpent/impulsepro/full01.jpg

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/serpent/impulsepro/full02.jpg

[rc4me2]

how's the ntc3 handling straight out of teh box, bone stock

im comparing it to reflex nt, vision pro, 705, mtx3, and sts pro 10....

cant decided, was looking for input, both good and bad

thanks

[Mystracing]

RCCarFreak - I can half answer your question. Yes you have to cut the long crank engines similar to a GT. Also the cutoff nut is the same one. I was glad I didn't remember to give the guy I sold my GT to the cutoff nut when I discovered the NTC3 doesn't come with one.

What I don't know is if the flywheel for the NTC3 and the GT are the same thickness. If you can find that out; and the flywheels are the same thickness; then the answer to your question is a simple yes. I can't find it but somewhere on the Associated site they have a PDF with instructions for cutting the crank for the NTC3.

Frank13 - I'm happy with my Hudy, It's plastic but far from cheap plastic. I don't have any trouble reading it. It's only drawback I see is it doesn't have any type of carrying case so if your going to be taking it too and from the track it will probably get scratched up more so than the aluminum integy.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by flsurf420
is that mountain dew in that glass. i have the same one and it is my "mountain dew" glass. lol just wodering:p


yup thats Mountain dew,one question for you though,is your glass half empty or half full?mines half empty

[rc4me2]

what kind of car is in that picture w/ the setup board?

[Twist 2 Go]

looks like a Trinity Reflex

[Pro3/nmt105]

will this reciever pack work with the ntc3?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LXVG16&P=7

[Pro3/nmt105]

Do u guys think i should get a sirio? Ive heard some bad thing about them but mostly from people who dont own them themselves. I heard that they have to be retunted every time use them and they dont last long but i dont know if its true. Ive also heard good thing about them so this is a very hard decision for me do u think i should get one? I could also get an Rb x12 or an Mt 12 but the sirio looked really nice before i heard some bad statements about them but i dont know if theyre true? Id appriciate help from anyone who owns one.

Thanx

btw this will be my 3rd nitro engine

[ponky_wonky]

Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
looks like a Trinity Reflex
reflex?
hahahahahahah
loo, u crack me up, u were joking, rite?
oh well, i beleive its a serpent impulse

[fastharry]

the tc3 is SO fast,almost any engine is good in it..I have 2 of them,with RB turbos in both....I race on a 125 x 100 ft track..and to be honest,after having cvr's in my racer2's,and reading the review in Nitro on teh cvr RE...(never mind that the turbo OS is even faster),I cant see why'ed you risk your money on a trinity motor when you can run an OS.....races aren't won on the straits.......they;re won in teh turns....and with teh low end grunt of teht RE os....I might be ridding myself of those RB's..and spend more time driving and less time tuning

[Pro3/nmt105]

well i can get it cheaper than a regular .12 tr a tr is 180 and a sirio is 150 so i figured if the motors better id get it. the people who have it usually say its easy to tune i dunno

[lbckevin]

Pro 3,

Where are you shopping? A new Trinity Sirio is $129 and an O.S. TR is only $120 from Hobby People.net Why waste your money on either one of those motors, when you can get the Mugen MR-12 motor or a MT-12. They are both on Speedtech.com for $149 and $139 respectively. If you don't like tose sites...Ebay has a ton of motors (new) for cheap.

On a seperate note....Use Spell check ....You guys make yourself look bad when you cannot even spell "the"

Hey guys....eveyone should post a pic of their TC3's....Like to see all those pics and get some ideas..

Thanks..

[show2ime]

...Sirio Rules..ask the rb 5 port and os owners I have raced.....

[show2ime]

Another 1

[lbckevin]

Show2ime,

Is that Nitro TC3 for sale on ebay? I thought I saw it there today. Looks cool. Like the carbon fiber tape. The blue 2 chamber pipe is the best.:)

[show2ime]

I taped the Failsafe to match. The deck is the carbon fiber piece from associated.

[rc4me2]

according to their website, those prices are a little optimistic

the tr is 160 and the sirio is also 160...

whered you get those prices?

thanks

[fastharry]

probably the same place he learned his manners to criticise other people's spelling....as far as I'm concerned,he can ete me..:D

[NTC3Fan]

wots that thing thats on the fuel tank lid .. like u use it to lift the tank open with the body on????its round and it goes thru the hole on the lid.....
like the pic of that NTC3 that was posted here on the same page by Show2ime i think....

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by rc4me2
what kind of car is in that picture w/ the setup board?

Oh, that is my Tamiya Grasshopper with full Serpent Impulse PRO upgrade........:D (just kidding, it is a Serpent Impulse PRO but sold like fell months ago)

NTC3 is great striaght out of the box, race ready and as long as you tuned her correctly, no modification needed.

About engine with NTC3, for like the 10,000 times, the NTC3 does not required some monster engine like JP to back her up......a cheap ass .12 OS CVR side exhaust ($95) engine can rule the small TRACK easily, if you want more punch, try RB X12 or MT-12 (hands down for MT-12, this 4 years old engine is STILL the best bang for the bucks engine for under $160 ROAR legal engine).

I heard Sirio is a good engine, but forget about that 40,000 rpm and 1.8 HP......never happaned, and I think there are some minor FITTMENT problem installed the Sirio engine on NTC3 (the SG crank thread was too long, need some minor milling).......so, I would stick with MT-12, MR-12 or RB X12.....for around $155 each.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm01.jpg

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm02.jpg

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm03.jpg

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm04.jpg

[Pro3/nmt105]

well corse-r showed me how to fit the sg version so that wont be a problem. show2ime which version do u run? if u run the sg what mod did u do to fit it?

So u guys think i would be better off not getting a sirio?

oh and i definitly dont beliveve the 1.8 horsepower but from what people who own it say it sounds like a really nice engine.

[lbckevin]

Slowharry,

If you can't spell, don't worry it is ok to be ignorant.


Rookie,

Your sedan looks sweet. Keep posting the good stuff.

[lbckevin]

Rc4 me,

I saw the prices for the O.S. motor at my local Hobby People. I walked into the store and that was the price listed. The motor was on sale. Thanks.
:mad:

[lbckevin]

The Trinity Sirio is also on sale through December 23rd for $134 at the same California, Hobby People. Its a great motor for the money.

Here is my list for Great Motors and Great Value:

Mugen MR-12
Mugen MT-12
RB 12
Trinity Sirio

Just my opinion. These are the only motors raced out here in CA. They are very competitive and race all day long.

[Rookie Solara]

Well, from every where I heard, Sirio is a GOOD engine, for the 1.8 hp 40,000 rom or whatever they claimed, I don't think it is anything LESS then some OS engine......for $150, that is a very GOOD price, so go for it, ONLY IF you are ready for the minor modification that you might face like Corse-R and others.

For something like PLUG and PLAY (I mean 100% no Mod no milling and no shaving....)......MT-12 is the answer.

www.speedtechrc.com - take to Steve Wang, for like $149.00, but only SG and slide carb (I believed.)

[Guld]

I'm not sure if my car is not shifting to second, or whether it is stuck on the higher gear. As a reference point, how many turns from fully tightened are you guys running the adjustment set screws? Right now, I've tried from 2-4 turns without noticing any changes. Thanks in advance for your help.

P.S.: Assuming that the centrifugal clutch could have been slipping, the friction surfaces of the shoes have been cleaned to eliminate such a possibility.

[Twist 2 Go]

Originally posted by ponky_wonky
reflex?
hahahahahahah
loo, u crack me up, u were joking, rite?
oh well, i beleive its a serpent impulse

Yeah, I was. Since you were the only one to respond, I wonder who really believed me? Hehehehe:D :D

As for engines, my current one is a .15 Hyper CV. I think my next one will be an OS 12TR. $149.00 everyday at my LHS. I too have a hard time believing some of those hp figures. I think you can only really use those numbers to compare one engine to the next from the same manufacturer.

[Twist 2 Go]

Originally posted by ponky_wonky
reflex?
hahahahahahah
loo, u crack me up, u were joking, rite?
oh well, i beleive its a serpent impulse

Yeah, I was. Since you were the only one to respond, I wonder who really believed me? Hehehehe:D :D

As for engines, my current one is a .15 Hyper CV. I think my next one will be an OS 12TR. $149.00 everyday at my LHS. I too have a hard time believing some of those hp figures. I think you can only really use those numbers to compare one engine to the next from the same manufacturer.

[ponky_wonky]

why does every1 call it a "trinity" sirio. trinity is just the distributor.
ie. Great Planes, distributor of kyosho, futaba, etc, etc
u dont see me calling my V One RR a "Great Planes" V One RR, lol

[tallyrc]

i run an os .12tr in my nitroTC3 and race against several pico .15's in hpi's a couple fantom .15's and assorted others. my nitro tc3 is hands down the fastest car in the bunch. i don't know if it's the car or the engine, but it stinkin' hauls. it's got no less than 3 gallons of gas through it and is still one tight son-of-a-gun. i retuned it once since it has gotten colder and that is it! it is also running barely at or above 200 degrees. i can't say enough good things about this engine. maybe someday i'll try something else, like a .12tr-t but i can't imagine needing that much power. unless your track has like a 200 foot straight and several longinsh other sections, it's probably more than you can use efficiently.

[show2ime]

I used the sg shaft on mine and ended up cutting it. It fits fine on my car. Mt12's are the same price as a Sirio, But Me and all my racers with Sirios stomp them most of the time. All the mt12 owners now own Sirios or pixy blacks as far as .12's go. Lets be real here, most of want the fastest engine a parking lot can hold. Bragging rights over your friends. For 160.00, Sirio is the real deal in my book.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Slowharry,

If you can't spell, don't worry it is ok to be ignorant.


Rookie,

Your sedan looks sweet. Keep posting the good stuff.



maybe I cant type as well as you...but at least I don't come off as another "know it all newbie".....btw,heres some of the cars I run and race with...lets see some of yours........

btw, I earned the title fastharry be having NJ's fastest turbo streetbike a few years ago.........BTW...theres 2 tc3 nitro's in there also..and I guarantee they're faster than yours(if you even own a RC car)

[25RS]

Originally posted by tallyrc
unless your track has like a 200 foot straight and several longinsh other sections, it's probably more than you can use efficiently.
Once you get to a bigger track you will see that the OS needs some extra revs...

[tallyrc]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 25RS
Once you get to a bigger track you will see that the OS needs some extra revs... [/and that is exactly my point, unless your running on some huge a$$ track, the os will rip. that said i doubt that the os under load turns many if any fewer revs than any of the other manufacturers unmodified motors. engines never see their top rpm under load no matter how much power they have, that is simple physics.QUOTE]

[XXXER]

What up guys. Today I got my MT12, and starter box. I plan on using a 12V gel cell. I was checking it out, and it looks like it will be a bit interesting trying to get the gel cell in without shorting it out, so I will have to find some way to fit it in the box. Oh well, I am finally seeing it coming together.

Hey, lay off those who do not spell well. What is with all the back-biting? Check your trash talking mouth at the door, thank you!

-Steve

[Distro]

Originally posted by XXXER
What up guys. Today I got my MT12, and starter box. I plan on using a 12V gel cell. I was checking it out, and it looks like it will be a bit interesting trying to get the gel cell in without shorting it out, so I will have to find some way to fit it in the box. Oh well, I am finally seeing it coming together.

Hey, lay off those who do not spell well. What is with all the back-biting? Check your trash talking mouth at the door, thank you!

-Steve

Use some fuel tubing to cover the connections, shouldn't short out that way.

[lbckevin]

Fastharry:

Nice bunch of sedans. They look cool.

I am a 12 year veteran to racing here in CA. I have won 2 NORCCA Offroad Truck Championships and 1 Electric Sedan Title. I think this will qualify me as an experienced racer.

Here is some pics of my Gas racing sedans and Electric XXXT Truck and XXX-s.

[NTC3Fan]

I need help!!!!!! :(
I just ordered a Sirio also but now i hear i'm gonna have cut the shaft...
What am i going to do...
i gont have any tools a like a dremel or anything...
OR is there any other way to get it to fit without cutting any shafts????

Please help

Bevan

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Fastharry:

Nice bunch of sedans. They look cool.

I am a 12 year veteran to racing here in CA. I have won 2 NORCCA Offroad Truck Championships and 1 Electric Sedan Title. I think this will qualify me as an experienced racer.

Here is some pics of my Gas racing sedans and Electric XXXT Truck and XXX-s.



NO NO NO NO NO NO NO...:( :( :( :(
I'm blind!!! waahahahaa
How can this happen to me.....
I cant see any pictures..

[NTC3Fan]

What is this ( The red pipe on the fuel tank lid....)

How do i make one or get one from where
What is it called..

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/serpent/impulsepro/full02.jpg

[lbckevin]

Trying to get pics up ...

[lbckevin]

Here are the pics......

[lbckevin]

here is another

[lbckevin]

here is a closeup of my TC3's: