Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v2.0

[lbckevin]

Check out the closeup of the Header pipe. It had been custom plated....I know its just Eye Candy...But looks cool.......

[lbckevin]

One last pic:

[barok1]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Check out the closeup of the Header pipe. It had been custom plated....I know its just Eye Candy...But looks cool.......

what kind of fuel fitting did u use on ur pipe i.e the one that connects ur fuel tubing to ur pipe? is it worth it? or just inserting the fuel tube is just as fine as with it? thnx

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
What is this ( The red pipe on the fuel tank lid....)

How do i make one or get one from where
What is it called..

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/serpent/impulsepro/full02.jpg


Anyone?????:confused: :confused: :confused:

[ritchies rc10gt]

looks to me like a ZIP TIE with red fuel tubing over it

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
I need help!!!!!! :(
I just ordered a Sirio also but now i hear i'm gonna have cut the shaft...
What am i going to do...
i gont have any tools a like a dremel or anything...
OR is there any other way to get it to fit without cutting any shafts????

Not needed to 'cut' the shaft (the shaft lenght is ok, but thread is slightly longer you can workaround this as I did), if you got the SG shaft you can use without problems, revise my posts regarding this and don't hesitate of asking (but I think that is very clear what I did (tried to illustrate as much as possible).

The best workaround seems to use a 3mm wide 5x10 Ball Bearing (trinity Reflex uses it) are on backorder on my LHS, but I did some wrenching (please revise my posts about this) and worked good.

[show2ime]

I noticed on your past thread that u used to race bikes. I have an 02' turbo Busa myself. Have been riding for years. All we do is drag race street bikes in these parts....u still ride??

[fastharry]

wished I still did sometimes..I still own that bike......I worked as a Kawasaki sales person in NJ in the 70's(#1 sales person on teh east coast 2years running).....I was the first one to have a street legal turbo bike....the bike was a kaw 900(using an American Turbo pak kit)......everything from a welded crank to an air shifter...riding on a legal(and heavily modified) pro stock frame....the bike sits about 3 inches off the ground....swing arm was extended 5 inches in back..and I'd run a good year road racing slick with NO wheelie bars on the street(you should have seen that bike hook up)......

I'd run at Atco dragway,island in great meadows NJ,and all over NY street racing(including the cross bronx at 4 in the morning)...


running without wheelie bars,the last times I ran the bike it was running mid 10's at over 140 in teh quarter...

i converted the bike to a big bore russ collins motor(1280 cc) witha murray engineering pro pipe in 1980.....and with probably the only twin plug head for a kawi on earth.......thats teh way the bike sits today...it needs some freshening,but I'll get to it...

BTW,my best buddy just bought a busa........he is trying to get me back in teh saddle...says the bike is unreal......

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Anyone?????:confused: :confused: :confused:

That is the DVD Nevagation Antanna for my NTC3, the car was too fast and sometimes it will ran away, if that happen, it will nevagate my NTC3 back to my house at night.......works everytime.

:D Just kidding.....it is just ZIP TIE, Pink fuel line tubing, and a Gold colored piece of hardware that used to be my 1/12 scale pan-car's wing stands.

That is just a fancy piece of hardware for me to PULL the fuel cap on the tank, nothing special but eye candy.:D

[Rookie Solara]

Nice NTC3 and nice Super Nitro as well (just got myself a cheap one so I can start the HPI Challenge next year, hee hee)
A little off topic here........about your bike, how come ppl modified their REAR SWING arm to crome and LONGER (just like your bike does).......? What is the reason behind it.....? Better to launch or something else..........?

I don't even know how to ride a Motorcycle, but very much in the Import tuning.....and I saw plenty of import bikes got that long extension at the back, but most of them doing that just for SHOW, and cannot give me a definite answer behind that special swing arm.....

Thanks for schooling me...........Howard

[fastharry]

we used to race without wheelie bars..(otherwise it wasn't a street bike).....Making the bike longer would prevent wheelies.....and more stable in a straight line.....whe those bike hook up,they can go up(as in over) pretty quick.....when I had the turbo on tap,I would still be hazing the rear tire through third gear.....I geared the bike to run 4 speeds......

[Guld]

Originally posted by Guld
I'm not sure if my car is not shifting to second, or whether it is stuck on the higher gear. I just can't hear it -- perhaps the stock ratios are so close...

As a reference point, how many turns from fully tightened are you guys running the adjustment set screws? Right now, I've tried from 2-4 turns without noticing any changes. Thanks in advance for your help.

P.S.: Assuming that the centrifugal clutch could have been slipping, the friction surfaces of the shoes have been cleaned to eliminate such a possibility.

Anyone? This info. would really help me out.

Thanks

[sook]

GULD,
I would just reset it back to the stock settings with the stock gearing. For tighter tracks I turn out 1/8th of a turn out from stock. That's 1/8th of a turn out from each side.

On another note: I have had the shoes get stuck on the housing before from having the outside screws of the shoe too loose, then it was stuck in second gear all the time. You would notice the speed change when running in a straight line, even with the stock gearing.

Good luck.

[Guld]

Sook, thanks for tip and the advice. :)

[sook]

No problem Guld, your very welcome. Good luck.

Fastharry,
It has been a while since I have read any of your postings, glad to see you still winning your heats with the ntc3's. My RB is still running strong and has given me absolutely no more fits since I switched the old tank system to the mugen tank system. I think that the RB is easily tuned and stays tuned, I really have not touched it since I retuned for the cold season. But, the Jp mod in the other ntc3 is much stronger for bigger tracks.

[fastharry]

good to hear from you also...I always thought the old tank was fine,and it was me.....MY rB's ran OK.....but were a little finicky....I became a believer in the new tank as soon as I installed it(the new assoc. tank)..what a difference..

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Not needed to 'cut' the shaft (the shaft lenght is ok, but thread is slightly longer you can workaround this as I did), if you got the SG shaft you can use without problems, revise my posts regarding this and don't hesitate of asking (but I think that is very clear what I did (tried to illustrate as much as possible).

The best workaround seems to use a 3mm wide 5x10 Ball Bearing (trinity Reflex uses it) are on backorder on my LHS, but I did some wrenching (please revise my posts about this) and worked good.

Had any luck with the bearing Idea????
Also do Tower Sell the bearing????
What kind of countersunk screw must i use???

Cheers!!

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by fastharry
good to hear from you also...I always thought the old tank was fine,and it was me.....MY rB's ran OK.....but were a little finicky....I became a believer in the new tank as soon as I installed it(the new assoc. tank)..what a difference..

Probably been asked a million times, but is this the new tank?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT8&P=7

Thanks in advance!

[lbckevin]

Rccarfreak,

yes ....That is the new tank. The new tank has the pressure fitting on the tank lid/cap. It is suppose to cut down on the bubbles inside the tank. It does a better job than the original.

Make sure you get it !

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Rccarfreak,

yes ....That is the new tank. The new tank has the pressure fitting on the tank lid/cap. It is suppose to cut down on the bubbles inside the tank. It does a better job than the original.

Make sure you get it !

Thought so. Thanks! I'll be picking one up before spring racing for sure.

[RCCarFreak]

Anyone tried the Stratus 2.0 yet? How does it perform compared to the original Protoform 'Rat?

[sook]

fastharry,
just to let you know, I did not have a problem with the old tank either. It tuned fine, ran great, did not die due to overheating, boiling of fuel nor bubbling. The real problem that I had with the old tank and new tank is the fact that it is so wide and the tune pipe would split the tank at the seam when struck on the tune pipe side by another racer. I got tired of replacing the tank, thus the reason I switched to the mugen tank. Where is old skool? Did he not move over to this forum?

[fuse01]

i'm having issue running this clutch the spring seem to be too hard. my car wont move until i full throttle.

is there something wrong with the design? i have losen the adj nut to bearly lock the spring but it still wont move.

please advise...

[show2ime]

That Kawi sounds like it ran good. My busa has went an 8.60 at 163mph so far. I am still tuning on it some. I am upgrading a few more things. It gets expensive though. Busa parts are outrageous. I bet I have 25k in that mike right now. 1360 piston kit, mr turbo kit, falicon supercrank and knife rods. Also a stage 3 head, webcams...all the goodies. I tell u, if u ride on, u will have to buy one. Anyway, I just bought me a super nitro to do some drag racing with. Putting the on road sirio on it now. Should be a beast. I needed a new project being My ntc3 is hopped to the max. I just got some aluminum tranny cases for my tc3 off ebay to dress it up some more.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fuse01
i'm having issue running this clutch the spring seem to be too hard. my car wont move until i full throttle.

is there something wrong with the design? i have losen the adj nut to bearly lock the spring but it still wont move.

please advise...

Try to turn the NUT "IN" (yes, IN) for 1-1/2 turn from the outside thread, and give it a try......loosen it all the way is NOT the solution, happened to me on my PRO's Centax.

For me, Centax is a over kill unless we are racing some 1/8th scale track.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Try to turn the NUT "IN" (yes, IN) for 1-1/2 turn from the outside thread, and give it a try......loosen it all the way is NOT the solution, happened to me on my PRO's Centax.

For me, Centax is a over kill unless we are racing some 1/8th scale track.

Well said. I have the kawahara one and remains in my toolbox, prefeer the 2 shoe ones. Centax is the way to go when ultra-high traction conditions but pay a premium price on engine longevity (raised my engine temp up to 20ºC upwards).

[rc4me2]

it has ball diffs up front and in the rear, correct?

if anyone has owned other nitro tcs before or after the ntc3, how does it compare?

interested in ease of adjustability, durability, and most importantly handling (without hop-ups...stock parts only w/ corresponding adjustment to suit track)

thanks

and anyone that has a .12 TR...hows that engine?

[fastharry]

out of my 3 racer2's,an all out rb SS and a REAL fast impulse,(not to mention my veteq,Kanai,tmaxx,nitro crusher,GT,nitro dfual sport,nitro mini,and ANY of my 30 or 40 cars,)this car remains my favorite...

it is an absolute joy to drive and has to be the best balanced car I've driven..oh yeah,I own a reflex too..

[Rookie Solara]

I think having a Serpent Impulse for 3.5 years does help me to learn how to tune a touring car.....and after having the NTC3, I don't think I will go back to any BELT driven car.....

NTC3 simply the BEST car for me now, not to mention the fastest and easiest to adjust TC.....but for the entire car structure, NTC3 is no match to cars like Serpent (NTC3 is a little week and not stable on the plastic parts.)

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by fastharry
out of my 3 racer2's,an all out rb SS and a REAL fast impulse,(not to mention my veteq,Kanai,tmaxx,nitro crusher,GT,nitro dfual sport,nitro mini,and ANY of my 30 or 40 cars,)this car remains my favorite...

it is an absolute joy to drive and has to be the best balanced car I've driven..oh yeah,I own a reflex too..

Can i be ur friend.....:D :D :D :D
How long did it take u to build up such an army....
i only got 2 cars now..
My NTC3 and my TC3

Damn i wish i could get a Serpent Impulse..

[nitroguy2001]

hey have any of you guys tried that k-factory gas tank?
it looks pretty slick and i need a new one pretty soon.

Brian~

[lbckevin]

I am also interested in the K Factory tank.

I am concerned about the steep price of $79.

Let us know what are the benefits of the tank..

Thanks.

[Rookie Solara]

Wow.........$79 plus shipping......? It better be came with 30% fuel inside.......for at least one year.

I think the revised Assoc. tank is like $25....and I think I will sell the NTC3 before I need th 4th tank.

[sook]

What is the link to k factory?

[barok1]

can u help me pls.

-how many shims do i have to put on my os12tr shaft i.e. the clutch shims. it says on the manual i have to put 3 shims before i have to put the screw in.or do i have to put 4-6 shims?

-and also i bought 2 servos. futaba 9404 and ko propo 2173.which one am i suppose to use for my throttle and for my steering?

thnx ur help will be greatly appreciated . muah

[Corse-R]

Sook:

http://www.kfactoryracing.com is the link you're searching.

barok1:

I don't know a word about the OS TR. but may I suggest to assemble as the manual indicates and see if it's satisfactory? maybe someone can gave you the answer on this point. If you don't get any answer, better to go to Tony Phalen's website ( http://www.competitionx.com ) and ask on their forums to Tony, I know that uses an OS on their NTC3.

Regarding servos: my actual servos are much like yours (KO PS 2000 on the steering) and Futaba 9402 on the throttle. Really you don't need a lightning fast servo on the throttle, just need a decently fast servo with some torque. Use the KO on the steering and Futaba on throttle like I did, you can go wrong.

BTW: Aren't you on rctech.net under the name erk1? Asked the same at the same time..

[barok1]

yup thats me. someone posted a reply for it then another said it differently which confuses me thats why i posted it here too.

[need4speed4]

hey, sorry, this is kinda random but can someone pls tell me the rpm and hp. of an RB X12 rear 3 port(non-turbo) and also an RB Rody X12, and one more, a Mugen/Novarossi MT-12 (sorry, but I cant decide on an engine for my ntc3)

Thanks: thomas

[Pro3/nmt105]

u know any place that sells the rody x12?

[barok1]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
u know any place that sells the rody x12?

this site sells rody engines

http://www.rcrage.com/

[ritchies rc10gt]

i got my NTC3 last night and finished it today.it was fun to actually build the car from a bunch of bags instead of getting a RTR.what do you guys think about the Rossi R12 Pixy?i put one in mine.havent run it yet cuz its raining.


heres a few pics of it

[ritchies rc10gt]

#2

[ritchies rc10gt]

#3

[ritchies rc10gt]

#4

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
i got my NTC3 last night and finished it today.it was fun to actually build the car from a bunch of bags instead of getting a RTR.what do you guys think about the Rossi R12 Pixy?i put one in mine.havent run it yet cuz its raining.

Some throughts about your car.

1. Have the dreaded 'old style' tank... Much of the whine of the people came from this tank. If you have constant problems about carb adjustment and flameouts, change it to the new tank if you run in problems. I haven't problems with it, but two weeks ago wreck the tank and put one of the new.

2. Don't said if you have installed from stock or before it you have done your homework and read some advices present on this thread (servo saver spring, BB's on the steering, etc..).

3. With the Pixy black for sure that the stock gearing is far from satisfactory. Switching to a 54/48 spurs and 21/27 pinions should do better a better job.

4. If you plan to run with rubbers, the stocks are pretty useless for anything that isn't break-in and some final adjustments of the car. Cars have better handling with foams.

Go to several pages backwards and read some interesting posts on this thread, for sure that you appreciate them.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by need4speed4
hey, sorry, this is kinda random but can someone pls tell me the rpm and hp. of an RB X12 rear 3 port(non-turbo) and also an RB Rody X12, and one more, a Mugen/Novarossi MT-12 (sorry, but I cant decide on an engine for my ntc3)

Uhm... tough question... from the three engines, the most powerful is the Rody X12, then the MT12 and the last and the lowest HP is the X12.

I'm break-in one Rody X12 for some further testing and I've found that is on pair with JP or slightly powerful than. Very good engine with lots of grunt and rip, next season turbo plugs are legal on Europe, for sure that a turbo head gives more power at high rpm.

MT12 is a very good motor some people on this thread have one and are very please with isn't extreme as the Rody or JP but have lots of power for those who want to race and not having lots of money to burn.

X12 is an 'old known' for the touring gas is one of the oldest engines present and maybe today can be considered like a practice or novice use engine, good performer but cannot run at pace with nowadays engines. Lacks a little from high end (and the exhaust on the NTC3 don't helps much) and this makes tricky to gear and adjust on high speed tracks.

From those three I'll stick with the Rody or MT12.

[CHUCKMANDO]

X12 is an 'old known' for the touring gas is one of the oldest engines present and maybe today can be considered like a practice or novice use engine, good performer but cannot run at pace with nowadays engines. Lacks a little from high end (and the exhaust on the NTC3 don't helps much) and this makes tricky to gear and adjust on high speed tracks.

From those three I'll stick with the Rody or MT12. [/B][/QUOTE]

WOW,
I have the x-12 in my NtC3. When I first started, I used to drag my friend with his mt-12 in his NTC3. We bot them the same day. He tuned them since I was a newbie. He would almost always take an early lead and I would catch him and pass in the end. This was with us being all stock. My rb-12 has at least 3 gallons through it and seems to be running strong as ever. Since then, I learned how to race a little and have really kept us with the best of the guys we race with and there are all makes and engines. If the rody is that much better, I guess that will be mine for next year.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Some throughts about your car.

1. Have the dreaded 'old style' tank... Much of the whine of the people came from this tank. If you have constant problems about carb adjustment and flameouts, change it to the new tank if you run in problems. I haven't problems with it, but two weeks ago wreck the tank and put one of the new.

2. Don't said if you have installed from stock or before it you have done your homework and read some advices present on this thread (servo saver spring, BB's on the steering, etc..).

3. With the Pixy black for sure that the stock gearing is far from satisfactory. Switching to a 54/48 spurs and 21/27 pinions should do better a better job.

4. If you plan to run with rubbers, the stocks are pretty useless for anything that isn't break-in and some final adjustments of the car. Cars have better handling with foams.

Go to several pages backwards and read some interesting posts on this thread, for sure that you appreciate them.



i knew i forgot something when putting the steering together!!ill order bearings this week.im just gonn run the stock tires for now till they are junk,its winter and nobody racing outdoors now

[XXXER]

Hey guys, today I embarked on modifying the Factory Team box to house a 12V gel cell (No way was I going to lug it alongside the starter box). I can say that I have successfully put the gel cell in the box, and it is securely fastened, will not bounce around, bend the motor tabs, short out on the case, and has a built in charging jack. Tomorrow, I will have pictures, and the full story

And yes, this was done completely with out the aid of super glue, OR zip ties.

-Steve

Also, I picked up a Motor Savers air filter for my MT12, it is huge!

[AggieTC]

Can someone refer me to, or list me the differences between the Team TC3 and the RTR TC3?

Thanks
Mike

[NTC3Fan]

How would a front one way and a solid rear axle affect the car.. will it improve my NTC3's handleing or performance..
Or what will it improve
I'm running on foams

[barok1]

how come when someone post their pics we always mountain dew on them? coincidence? advertising? just asking :)

[barok1]

how come when someone post their pics we always see mountain dew on them? coincidence? advertising? just asking :)

[Twist 2 Go]

Where is the best place to mount the on-off switch when using the graphite radio tray? Are there smaller switches available also?
one more question.. what is up with the dew in the photos?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by AggieTC
Can someone refer me to, or list me the differences between the Team TC3 and the RTR TC3?

On AE website the information about the RTR and the Team version is pretty explained, but basically, the RTR comes with side exhaust engine (pullstart) and one speed gearbox, the Team version comes with 2 speed gearbox, without engine and basically the same car with subtle diferences, refer to AE website to know more about.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
How would a front one way and a solid rear axle affect the car.. will it improve my NTC3's handleing or performance..
Or what will it improve
I'm running on foams

Depends, I tried to run with solid axle rear and one-way in front and didn't liked it, need a very high traction track and serious horsepower on your engine if not, the car don't handle good.

Solid axle in front is for low traction conditions and makes the car more docile to drive, but slower on time perf.... Just test for yourself, tested several times and liked the handling.

[NTC3Fan]

This is wot i'm wanting to order..
i want to give some extra performance esp the drivetrain...
wot else do u guys think i shud get?

LXBMJ7 Associated Lightweight Two-Speed One-Way Hub NTC3

1 19.29
LXBMK1 Associated Front One-Way Assembly NTC3

1 49.99
LXBMK0 Associated Solid Fr/Re Axle NTC3

1 26.99
LXBML3 Associated Graphite Radio Tray

1 34.99
LXBMJ8 Associated Lightweight Two-Speed Clutch Housing NTC3

1 13.99

[show2ime]

Hello guys. I have a new in pack Kawahara centax for sale and some aluminum tranny cases front and rear, new in packs also if anyone is interested. My car got stolen before I could put the parts on.

[show2ime]

I forgot this. email me at jeffmarsh@triad.rr.com for further info. thx.

[show2ime]

Kawahara pic..

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Twist 2 Go

one more question.. what is up with the dew in the photos?


for some strange reason everytime i take a picture of something a glass,can or bottle magicly appears in the photos.or it could be that thats all i drink

[barok1]

Originally posted by show2ime
I forgot this. email me at jeffmarsh@triad.rr.com for further info. thx.

how much for the centax and the aluminum diff case including s/h?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by show2ime
Hello guys. I have a new in pack Kawahara centax for sale and some aluminum tranny cases front and rear, new in packs also if anyone is interested. My car got stolen before I could put the parts on.
oh that sux ure ntc3 was so sweet.

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres a few pics of my NTC3 with a mustang saleen body.i also have a small problem that started when i put the body on,maybe you guys can help me.i cut the hole in the front for cooling and a hole in the rear.when i run it with the body on itll run for a half tank of fuel then overheat and stall,without the body itll run for the whole tank with no trouble except the 2 speed shifting to soon.since this is my first nitroTC i dont know if i cut enough cooling holes or put them in the right place.take a look and let me know what i should do.i also have a 1970 boss mustang body for it that ill get pics of after i know where to put the cooling holes.


thanx for any help

[ritchies rc10gt]

#2 oh and sorry guys but no DEW in these pics

[ritchies rc10gt]

#3

[ritchies rc10gt]

#4

[need4speed4]

hey, I think Ive decided on the MT-12 but I was wondering about the MT-12 turbo. Are turbo engines race legal??? Also is anything more than 4 ports race legal??


Thanks: Thomas

[show2ime]

email me for the prices of the clutch and cases at jeffmarsh@triad.rr.com

[fuse01]

For me, Centax is a over kill unless we are racing some 1/8th scale track---- hehe agreed.

i'm running on a 1/8 track with a VDS/lola body..
the kawahara clutch spring is way too stiff ..screwing it "in" became worse.. so i threw the sping away and got a kyosho 3D centax spring and collar and wa la... it works like a charm...


i didnt manage to run well on the weekend because of engine issue and wet weather. but i tested 2 laps on a JP S5 --with kawahara centax and its speed is very good,
especially on a 20/26 54/48 gearing.. now running on front yellow spring and rear red. Car handle very well too..

but i notice one issue..


is anybody having issue with the tank? because i see a lot of foams in it when i throttle and when i hard break the car, the fuel will rush to the front of the tank cauing my engine to cut about 1/4 tank left.

please advise ...

[zerotorc]

ritchies rc10gt: Something that I noticed with your Pixy is the header. Have you rotated it so that the holes on the header line up with the front window hole? (Look at the header from the side, you should be able to see the glow plug from the hole). This would probably help in cooling down the engine a bit.

This is something that all NTC3 owners have to do because the original fitting of the engine header is for conventional mounting.

[cvccsi]

Hi Guys,

I have a brand new unassembled Nirto TC3 Rear Exhaust Team Kit for Sale. Asking $230.00 plus shipping. If anyone who is interested please email me at cvccsi@hotmail.com.

All parts are still in plastic bags.

Thank you.

[thefuzzclub]

What tires can u best recommend for NTC3 for:
- Concrete road parking lot for bashing
- Asphalt track
Someone told me to put foam tires like the team orion fresh kicks tires. Is it best for any type of surface? Need your inputs please.

[veesix]

Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
Where is the best place to mount the on-off switch when using the graphite radio tray? Are there smaller switches available also?
one more question.. what is up with the dew in the photos?

Twist - Novak sells a small, light weight switch. It cost around $6 or $7 and is of good quality. It is very small and can be mounted almost anywhere you would like.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by zerotorc
ritchies rc10gt: Something that I noticed with your Pixy is the header. Have you rotated it so that the holes on the header line up with the front window hole? (Look at the header from the side, you should be able to see the glow plug from the hole). This would probably help in cooling down the engine a bit.

This is something that all NTC3 owners have to do because the original fitting of the engine header is for conventional mounting.

when i put the engine on it i didnt think to check that,probably cuz im used to off road and the engines usually come with the head mounted the right way for my RC10GT.the head is on wrong but i dont think i can turn it cuz the block and head are both oval shapedand i cant get the screws out(gotta go to my shop and use the heat gun to heat them up a little).if i cant turn the head can i use the dremmel and open up the screw slots so the air can flow through them without weeakening the head?heres a close up pic of the engine

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by thefuzzclub
What tires can u best recommend for NTC3 for:
- Concrete road parking lot for bashing
- Asphalt track
Someone told me to put foam tires like the team orion fresh kicks tires. Is it best for any type of surface? Need your inputs please.

Depending on your surface conditions on the parking you may need very different type rubber tyres, ranging from an HPI's X-Pattern to a complete racing slick like Sorex rubbers, please specify more your track conditions.

I'm not having much hope on Team Orion foams, I'll prefeer straight a well known brand of foam tyres like GRP's (ellegi, fast tyres,...), Enneti foams (I use this brand after testing many brands), Yokomo (good, but very expensive and works better on high temperatures) or Jaco NitroShoes (not available on my country). But, unless we heard something (good or bad) about those foams, stay away from them, there are many brands of foams that are more related for electric cars rather than nitro (no... foam isn't only foam).

[show2ime]

BBNtc3 has bought the tranny cases but I still have the Kawahara centax New in the pack for 80.00. Thx for all who showed interest in the tranny cases . If I get some more, I will let u all know.

[waileun]

Hi,

anyone tried the four stroke engine? I'm thinking of getting a NTC 3. and am considering getting the four stroke engine from OS. ANy suggestion?

Wai Leun

[NTC3NUT]

show2ime,
Where did you buy the cases?

[Rookie Solara]

OK.......I saw these on ebay, they are like $30 shipped....pricy, but I think that will solved the shock tower got ripped out problem.....

Go to ebay, type "NTC3", then go to "Completed Items" on the left, you can see 4-5 items were sold for $24 plus $6 shipping.

[augustine]

here
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=816528

[NTC3NUT]

Thanks Rookie.

[Rookie Solara]

Problem with RS-12 T5 on NTC3............I think I need to consider that might happen to my car one day.........

http://www.rcmodel.com.hk/lb5000/usr/18/18_1216_2.jpg

[rc4me2]

hows taht engine work in your ntc3?

by the looks, a little faster than you were expectin goin into the first sweeper?

[NTC3NUT]

You know, I thought that would never happen to me (about half way through last season), then it seamed like I broke 3 tanks in a row. Anybody have, or seen the K-Factory tank yet?

[tallyrc]

where can i get some of those aluminum diff cases?????

[Distro]

I blew apart a tank in a crash too, lucky the car didn't explode, had a full tank of fuel onboard.

[zerotorc]

NTC3NUT: I've seen the K-Factory tank and it looks sweet. The guy had it for approx $23. Disadvantages according to him, difficult to see the fuel level (with some fuel) due to the smoked look and promotes stalling when fuel is low. But no bubbles. He told me to either get a Yok tank or the AE tank.

ritchies rc10gt: I've seen the head on a Pixy rotated before. So, it's not impossible - but I don't know how easy/difficult it is to do that. Try to get the LHS that sold you the Pixy to help out.

[barok1]

hi guys r u putting rubber grommets on ur servo?ive heard that this helps lowering the vibration on ur servo which will damage it after a period of time.it doesnt say on the manual that i should put rubber grommets, only spacers.btw i have futaba 9404 on my throttle and ko propo 2173 on my steering.

[show2ime]

55 apeice for mine. the alum diff cases. I had them on ebay for sale and took them off. BBntc3 bought them.

[Distro]

Originally posted by barok1
hi guys r u putting rubber grommets on ur servo?ive heard that this helps lowering the vibration on ur servo which will damage it after a period of time.it doesnt say on the manual that i should put rubber grommets, only spacers.btw i have futaba 9404 on my throttle and ko propo 2173 on my steering.

The grommets are used to reduce vibration in the servo, which can cause glitches in some cases.

[nickko]

cool DM

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/dm.htm

[nickko]

cool DM

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/graphics/KfactoryNTC3DM2.jpg

[nickko]

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/graphics/KfactoryNTC3DM3.jpg

[nickko]

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/graphics/KfactoryNTC3DM1.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

K-factory Centax looks cool.........but I think I would get the side brace to protect the tank. Does any know any online shop can get that ordered..?

[barok1]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
K-factory Centax looks cool.........but I think I would get the side brace to protect the tank. Does any know any online shop can get that ordered..?

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/54.html is selling the side brace for $29.99

[augustine]

does any one have any k-factory parts ?
i wanted to know if there as good as hardcore racing parts ? what do u guys think?

[NTC3NUT]

They have GOT to be as good as Hardcore Racing parts. The K-Factory parts I have seen first hand looked good. I already have the 1-piece brake mount/ center bulkhead, and am waiting on the brake cam & fuel tank. I am also considering the side brace to protect the tank. If anyone gets it soon, let me know what you think. I am concerned that the pipe will still be able to contact the tank, even with the brace.

[DOOD]

Other than Speedtechrc, what other stores are selling K Factory parts. I live in So. Cali, and none of the "big" stores have 'em. They keep confusing them with Kawahara.:confused:

[rc4me2]

has anyone come up w/ a way to fix the problem of broken tanks?

is there a guard of some sort to put between the tank and the pipe?

or perhaps a more durable tank?

anything?

the reoccuring tank break is about the only thing keeping me from getting an ntc3

[NTC3NUT]

Anyone that handles Trinity can get you the K-Factory stuff. If you go to Trinity's website they have the part numbers for all this stuff.

[fastharry]

I took a roll pin and drilled a small hole by teh top of the wire mount where it screws into the chassis....its on a small angle and prevents teh wire from moving in the event of a side hit....

if the wire can't move,the muffler stays in place....I got t boned all season and never broke a tank...

[speedydave]

Can you post a pic of how you did that? I don't have an NTC3, so..hehe. I'm just lurking, I guess..I want an NTC3, but I don't want to put the cash down for one for a while(probably won't buy one until mid spring, or early summer, since I can't race it until then).

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by rc4me2
has anyone come up w/ a way to fix the problem of broken tanks?

is there a guard of some sort to put between the tank and the pipe?

or perhaps a more durable tank?

anything?

the reoccuring tank break is about the only thing keeping me from getting an ntc3

Well....there is only one MAJOR problem on NTC3 or Team Assoicate...........CHEAP PLASTIC.......not even the arms, shock towers, diff case are weak and cheap, now the TANK......

The ONLY solution I can think of is use other gas tank like Serpent mugen or Kyosho....I still have my Serpent tank just in case....but still, I am thinking to create 2 columns at the side of the tank to protect the tank by hitting from the pipe......not sure that will work or not.

But the best solution is.........stay away from accident.

[RichieRich]

Looks like K-factory needs to run a spellcheck. :p

[Pro3/nmt105]

i think putting a strip of foam about 1cm thick between the tank and pipe would solve the problem im talking about the kinda foam that comes in strips with sticky stuff on the back. It came with my pro3 to help keep the pattery in place but its not thick enough i guess u could use 2 layers. If u stuck it to the tank it would absorb the impact instead of breaking the tank. You could also use the method used on the gt wire with fuel tubing over it and anchor it to one of the holes that the tank mounts on, in a way so that it cant move toward the tank.

[flix]

hi all,

I'll be getting a ntc3 soon and was wondering if anybody had a list of companies and their websites that make hopup parts for the ntc3.

i guess k-factory is one, any others?

thanks.
flix

[lbckevin]

Flix,

There are alot of companies making hop-ups for the Nitro Tc3.

GPM ( all aluminum parts)
Trinity(wheel hex's and K factory distributor)
Associated (Factory Team)-the best parts !!!!
Rpm (bumpers)
Rd Logics (chassis)
Golden Horizon GH
Hardcore Racing (chassis, arms, hubs, everything)
JT racing ( chassis)


Good Luck

PS.. First Hop-ups should be a Factory Team Spring Set, then the Updated fuel tank with pressure nipple on the lid, nice set of foam tires, Some different shock oils for tuning....Get some good servo's to go with it...They make it smooth and easier to drive.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Well....there is only one MAJOR problem on NTC3 or Team Assoicate...........CHEAP PLASTIC.......not even the arms, shock towers, diff case are weak and cheap, now the TANK......

...

But the best solution is.........stay away from accident.

Uhm... this suggests me two things:

- Your track buddies are quite agressive.
- Your driving is too fast and agressive.

Past weekend I did with some friends a 3 Hours endurance race and get carried to the track several parts to cope with different problems that we can face during a race, broken none and ended in second place.

The only problems that we had were rear wheels slammed and their toe-in changed, but a quick trip to the boxes to put in good shape was the only problem (well, 4 sets of rear tyres and 2 fronts but wore completely).

On winter, basically STAY AWAY from the graphite parts, their increased rigidity and less weight are more prone to break, and thus aren't really needed (upgrade what you want: transmission, suspension, steering, etc...) but stay away from the graphite parts.

Some weeks ago I switched to the carbon fiber radio plate and 'magically' the weight of my car went just 4 grams over the limit of 1700 grams, name the part and possibly is present on my car (aluminium screws, complete lightweigh transmission parts, lightweight clutch bell, Carbon fiber radio plate, etc...) but the unique you shouldn't find is the graphite conversion.

Got burned many times with graphite pieces on my TC3 and my DNF with those pieces were numerous, changed to the composite ones and things got much better.

BTW: Until three weeks ago I was using the 'old style' tank and not had problems with them, changed because I got boned with a novice guy and broke me some parts: exhaust pipe wire, pipe (2 chambers) and the tank. The unique difference with the old tank for me is a little less fuel consuption who permits me to pit each 6 minutes (got almost 30 secs of more running time).

[chachi]

what's a good price for a ntc3, 2-speed, with a novrossi rear exhaust .12 and cheap hitec fm radio? i am new to road, and there is one for sale on ebay that has piqued my interest. it is in good shape, as far as i can tell from the photos.

[Distro]

i'd actually go with the airtronics mx3 or what ever its called. the kit i think is around 260 -270 i thought.

[thefuzzclub]

Is there a way to protect the blue under chassis to scratches? Does AE has a part for it?

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by zerotorc
NTC3NUT:

ritchies rc10gt: I've seen the head on a Pixy rotated before. So, it's not impossible - but I don't know how easy/difficult it is to do that. Try to get the LHS that sold you the Pixy to help out.

ok i got it turned,now itll run perfect with the body on.


this car is too fast and handles to good for me,i ran it in the parking lot at the LHS last night,wrecked it 3 times,hit a iced snowbank a few times,stripped the steering servo and think i bent something.my right front tire is hitting the body now.its gonna take me a while to get used to this car.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Uhm... this suggests me two things:
- Your track buddies are quite agressive.
- Your driving is too fast and agressive.


Not too many racers at my local track are agressive.....they are just.....T-bone you for no reason, or newbie, or JP motor WOT without using brake, or $300 plus radio have glitching problem, or just plain STUPID..........and YES, a lot of time is my own mistake.

I can say their plastic quality are not up to standard because I was compare them with Serpent, Kyosho and others, I usually BROKE the plastic parts from my Serpent due to high speed accident, and usually, high impact accident.....all the parts are broke into pieces, and that is part of the racing.
But the NTC3, their problem is NOT breaking, they stripped, I rarely have a BROKEN parts except the POS CVT. For example......like the rear upper arms, rear toe-in cup joint, shock towers, diff cases....they didn't CRACK or BROKE, they are just stripped from the screws or the pivot balls......

I just don't understand..........and other complain is the screws they use.......4-40 with plastic, what a nightmare.

On my Serpent, you will twisted your arm first before you can stripped a screw over the plastic parts....now, that is quality.

[flix]

lbckevin:

Thanks much for the info. I'm looking forward to gettin the car and tricking it out. Much cheaper than working on a real one. Plus it's much safer on my body than racing around on sportbikes.

thanks.
flix

[TUCRACEMAN]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
On my Serpent, you will twisted your arm first before you can stripped a screw over the plastic parts....now, that is quality.
Maybe that's your problem.
~Dave

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by thefuzzclub
Is there a way to protect the blue under chassis to scratches? Does AE has a part for it?
ae makes a sort of sticker that u put on the under side of the chassi to protect it tower sells it but whats the point of having a scratchless chassi if u wont even see it?

[zerotorc]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
ae makes a sort of sticker that u put on the under side of the chassi to protect it tower sells it but whats the point of having a scratchless chassi if u wont even see it?

Exactly. That's why my nice blue aluminium chassis is now blooming into striped shiny white :D

[Wyle E. Coyote]

Is there a Factory Team NTC3 kit available?

Someone told me there was, however I'm having trouble finding information on it, or where to purchase, so my trust in said person is skeptical at best.

[coastal-tony]

AE does not offer a Factory Team NTC3

[Pro3/nmt105]

I have a feeling associateds holding off with the FT kit cause they make more money when people buy ft parts to hop up their team kits

[Rookie Solara]

I think it will happen soon, after the 705 and MTX released (I know MTX3 released already)..........there is no reason not to do one to make more money, I got friends selling their existing ride and planning to get the team kits or even the Factory teams kits, but March is their dead line.......season start on April.

[christop]

I have a question. I have been running my tg with the stock rear ext. tune pipe. But i just bought a sirio. I'm thinking about the dual chamber pipe now. I was mainly wondering if its worth the money over the stock pipe. Thanks for any help.

[coastal-tony]

The duel is a good pipe, the Trinity Blue Tuned pipe is also a killer pipe. I have a spare Trinity blue pipe
Send me email through profile if interested

[Serpent Impact]

Serpent 705 (Jan) $ 355
Ntc3 kit RE $ 257
Ntc3 starter $ 75
Carbon kit NTC3 $50

No tax no shipping if in Chicago(pick up).
no tax other place.

ask for other products

My email : amuiy2k@hotmail.com
AIM : amuiy2k
Yahoo Mess: amuiy2k

[lbckevin]

Hey guys...

Happy Holidays...!!!!!


I just got the new aluminum molded tanny cases off ebay. They were $24 for the set...They are a perfect fit...I know now that I will not strip the screws on the cases. Check them out...The seller is office_need on ebay. The seller also has new molded aluminum shock towers too. I will post pics in a minute

[lbckevin]

Here is a pic of the shock tower...http://ebay2.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_8e23612fd5e6288397da54512e6160a3/i-1.JPG

[lbckevin]

Here is the pichttp://ebay2.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_8e23612fd5e6288397da54512e6160a3/i-1.JPG

[lbckevin]

Here is a pic of the transmission cases:
http://ebay3.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_a8ceaada07125efd308a3ee604cad90b/i-1.JPG

[Pro3/nmt105]

2000 Posts!

i was waiting to get the 2000th post but lbckevin posted pictures and used several posts

[Serpent Impact]

Serpent 705 (Jan) $ 355
Ntc3 kit RE $ 257
Ntc3 starter $ 75
Carbon kit NTC3 $50

No tax no shipping if in Chicago(pick up).

ask for other products

My email : amuiy2k@hotmail.com
AIM : amuiy2k
Yahoo Mess: amuiy2k

[tallyrc]

so you said the aluminum cases and towers are molded? so did you have to tap the screw holes for threads???

[lbckevin]

Tally,

You do not have to tap any holes...Everything is done for you and fits perfect. I am going to race tomorrow with them. I will let you know the durability. They look great.

[NTC3Fan]

where can i buy the tranny cases and the shock towers?
is there a online shop if so wot is the address
do they also ship to South Africa??

Cheers

[lbckevin]

Tranny cases,

The tranny cases are for sale on :

www.ebay.com

Search under nitro tc3 or ntc3

There are about 6-7 of them for sale.

The same seller also has the shock towers...Just email him to find out.

[lbckevin]

Here is a direct link to the items:

http://**************/ws/*******************************3101818005

[lbckevin]

I will try it again:


http://**************/ws/*******************************3101818005

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Tranny cases,

The tranny cases are for sale on :

www.ebay.com

Search under nitro tc3 or ntc3

There are about 6-7 of them for sale.

The same seller also has the shock towers...Just email him to find out.

No he only wants to ship to USA...

Surley there must be a online store selling these parts like Towerhobbies??

[nitroguy2001]

hey guys i got a couple of problems.

1) I was driving my car the other day and it stoped shifting. It was working fine be4. I took it apart and reajusted the screws for shift point, and even the ones that hold the balls against the shaft. Ill mess with it a little more today but its bugging me.

2) does the bearing that goes b4 the last gear on the main shaft fit really tight on it for you guys, when i was trying to take the bearing off it broke?! Luckily the front wheel bearings on my truck are the same size:) I dont know if this is normal or my shaft got made a little to big.


thanks a bunch!!

Brian~

[Distro]

You need to losen the screws until it shifts where you want it to. The two speed is nutorius for losing it shift point every now and then when the shoes wear down.

On a side note, i blew 2 diffs today, melted them down. Both at the same time, 5 laps into my second qual i noticed my car had lost alot of acceleration and it only got worse from there. Final lap i made i barely made it across the line as the plastic was just getting spun around inbetween the rings. God i HATE the diffs in this car. Along with the wheel bearings, this is what assoicated needs to fix when they release an upgrade to the car.

[nitroguy2001]

ok i got it, i had to adjust the set screws and the shift point screws.
now i just need to check the diffs because it is spinning to the right badly when i hit the gas hard. But this is the first time it has done this so im not angry, and plus i love working on my car(as long as i dont break anything :) )
i love this car, i am going to be racing in the 'pro class' starting the 29th i think. any little tips you guys have for foam tire use?

Brian~

[lbckevin]

Ntc32fan,

The tranny cases and shock towers are made by RD logics...They are not available at tower hobbies or anywhere else. They will be available on RD Logics website in a few weeks. The person selling them on ebay makes them.


Distro,

I have run my NTC3 for a 6 months and no diff problems....Are you locking the diff? If you overtighten it , there will be consequences...Wheel bearings? You must be tightening them too tight too...Replace the hex adapters with aluminum ones ....

Good Luck

[fastharry]

theres nothing wrong with the diffs...

[nitroguy2001]

mine just loosend up a little bit to much

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Distro
i blew 2 diffs today, melted them down. Both at the same time, 5 laps into my second qual i noticed my car had lost alot of acceleration and it only got worse from there. Final lap i made i barely made it across the line as the plastic was just getting spun around inbetween the rings. God i HATE the diffs in this car. Along with the wheel bearings, this is what assoicated needs to fix when they release an upgrade to the car.

Uhm.... On more than 1000 packs under racing with mine TC3's and more than 5 gallons thru my NTC3 only blew one diff and and I was the guilty not the car. Going a loose diff with foams or high grip tracks is an explossive combination.

Generally when someone melts a diff is for not keeping the correct diff tightness and went loose, I don't know if this is your case, but sounds very close to me.

Have one of the first cars who went to my country and until starting November I was running the 'old style tank' (yes, the one who everyone blamed and whined about it) without problems and drying it. About the wheel BB you've reason: Too small for a car like this, but nothing you cannot fix having some BB's in your pitbox and changing from time to time.

Many times we blame the car, not the driver or the mechanic (It's easier to...), who is the responsible of keeping in good shape.

[Temjin006]

I was looking at some stainless steel screw set and was wondering if they are better than the blue alumium screws and steel screws. I want to get something that is cheap and strong.

[coastal-tony]

Two questions
Do 30mm rear tires fit properly?
Does anyone know if there is a thread on the LRP Pulsar Comp. charger?

[Temjin006]

30mm tires fits on the tc3.

[Rookie Solara]

All the 30mm foams on the market fits NTC3.....even the CRC 35mm foam, but need a little spacer.

[coastal-tony]

Thanks guys

[speedydave]

I'm just curious, to make a competitive car, how much am I looking at, roughly, including everything I'll need for it, and recommended hopups(please state what it is you're accounting for in the price)? I have a throttle servo already, and I'll have a receiver already, so don't include those. I want to get an NTC3 really bad now(damn pictures...lol), but I don't want to go overboard with the cost of one of these things, since I have my 1/8 that takes up a bit of my money. Thanks! :)

[Distro]

The diffs were loose but not to the point where it should have burnt the diff up. I guess the nut unscrewed itself because i took them apart recently and re lube the diffs.

[sook]

Originally posted by speedydave
I'm just curious, to make a competitive car, how much am I looking at, roughly, :)

There really is not a need for any hopups for this car. I was real competitive with just stock parts. Placing within the first three positions at more than one race club around town. 70 dollars for a steering servo and 150 for a mt-12 and your set. Anything else is prefrence or eye candy. Good luck.

[Distro]

Originally posted by speedydave
I'm just curious, to make a competitive car, how much am I looking at, roughly, including everything I'll need for it, and recommended hopups(please state what it is you're accounting for in the price)? I have a throttle servo already, and I'll have a receiver already, so don't include those. I want to get an NTC3 really bad now(damn pictures...lol), but I don't want to go overboard with the cost of one of these things, since I have my 1/8 that takes up a bit of my money. Thanks! :)

Anti rollbars and spring kit, should be around 60-80 bux. Its really just to help tune the car, this and tires are all you'll need.

[speedydave]

OK, cool. Do you guys think I'd get burned at the track if I just used my .12 CV w/O'Donnell head from my GT for the NTC3 for a while, to save money? Also, I've never really gotten seriously into onroad before...dialing in the car should be a similar process to dialing in any offroad, right? I don't see why it wouldn't, but you never know. Thanks.

[new2ntc3]

Just got my new ntc3 rtr , and can't believe how fast this thing is , this is my first nitro car and can see myself becoming addicted to this hobby . I am looking for sugestions on how to make this car even better , upgrades ect , would be greatly appreciated. Also , what can be used on the bottom of the chassis to prevent it from being scratched . Thanks in advance for your suggestions:D

[rc4me2]

the old cv's wont keep up w/ any of todays engines, especially in a competitive class onroad....but to start w/, it should be fine

as for setup

basic principles are the same

to me, theres a lot more fine-tuning in onroad than offroad

offroad...basically shocks and tires...find what holds the track well and lets you drive agressively

onroad youve got both of the above, but also finer adjustments to castor/camber toe-in or out, swaybars, etc...

i think tuning an onroad car takes more skill and more creativity...and when you get it right, you go a lot faster

[fastharry]

maybe in a belt drive car a CV won't run well,but I've seen 12 and 15 cv's on our 100 x125 track(with 80 ft straight) stay with RB re 3 port motored Impulse's.....that low drag drivetrain in the tc3 will make anything look good(well,maybe not an HPI 15FE).....



MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!.........every one!!!!

[speedydave]

OK then, thanks! I would consider my CV to be pretty powerful, but I doubt it's as powerful as a ported CV(It's not ported), and it's definitely not running too lean(it temps at 200-230, ALL THE TIME...NEVER over that...it's temped under that before, too, and it was making great power). I guess I just saved myself $180. :) Merry Christmas, guys!

[nitroguy2001]

hey are swaybars pretty much with foams? if so what are u guys running?

Happy Christmas

hope santa is good to you guys!!!!!!!!!!

Brian~

[Distro]

Swaybars are needed when there is alot of traction and when running foams there is always alot of traction. So they are needed with foams.

[coastal-tony]

speedydave
Use the OS, and buy a bunch
of tires & bodies as you did not spend money
on a "racing engine" I
have 5 nitro sedans and I love to race my
VoneR with the OS .12max slide carb engine
non-pull start I
have a Collari .12 on one of my NTC3s. It is
a killer engine, but I am not a world class
racer. Have fun racing
your car.
Merry Christmas to all

[penggoy]

Hi guys im new to this nitro rc hobby.Im just going to ask u what kind of battery are you using on your starter boxes.gel cell or (2) 7.2v battery packs? Right now im using (2) trinity zip packs (1400 mah each) and they wont last that long.im thinking of buying a gel cell and charger or (2) battery packs rated 2400mah (I already have duratrax intellipeak charger for this).what would u suggest? I can save money on gel cell and charger right, but will it last longer than the battery packs?

[flsurf420]

yea i just got my ntc3, but it sucks cuz it is raining. i never knew i had to wait 14 hours for the glowstarter to charge. i was looking at the starter boxes... maybe:D

[fastharry]

Originally posted by penggoy
Hi guys im new to this nitro rc hobby.Im just going to ask u what kind of battery are you using on your starter boxes.gel cell or (2) 7.2v battery packs? Right now im using (2) trinity zip packs (1400 mah each) and they wont last that long.im thinking of buying a gel cell and charger or (2) battery packs rated 2400mah (I already have duratrax intellipeak charger for this).what would u suggest? I can save money on gel cell and charger right, but will it last longer than the battery packs?


which starter box did youi get?....and what motor(s) is in it?

[coastal-tony]

fls, pen
Hope this helps
Use your charger on the starting box while you are racing or fooling around. You can charge the NiCDs all you want. I still have old 1500 packs in my box. I just keep a charger on the batteries so when it's time to use it, it is ready.
Ofna & a few other companies make an inexpensive 12v glo-plug ignitor that you hook up to a gel-cel or car battery. They have a dial on them to adjust how hot the ignitor gets.

[penggoy]

Originally posted by fastharry
which starter box did youi get?....and what motor(s) is in it?

AE starter box and it came with a single motor. Dunno what kind though.

[mugenracer123]

i have one of thos and i love it it is relly prity powerful i was expecting a low power box but it has more than enof.one cool thing is that it comes preasembled and set up to fit the tc3

[penggoy]

but which one should i get? battery or 12v gel cell?

[Timmy]

Hey guys I think me and my brother are going to get a RTR Nitro TC3 tomorrow from the LHS from our Christmas money. We may also mail order. This will be our first nitro and was looking for some advice. How well of a car is this for a newbie in nitro. What kinda glow plugs do you recomend to run in the engine and also what kinda reciever pack is everyone running. I will be sure to let everyone know if we get it.

[mugenracer123]

i use 2 7.2 volt and thay work elexent i have 4 of them and whean two get low pop in another two. two will last a hole day at the track i have found

[RCCarFreak]

Hey, I'm looking into getting a tweak board to use with my NTC3 so I'm looking into the Integy and Hudy stuff. However, I'm hoping to use whatever I get for my Super Nitro as well. Any suggestions? Pros/Cons of the different boards? IS it worth it to even spend the money on one? They are pretty pricy...I can do all adjustments with the tools I currently have (camber, ride height, droop, etc) except I don't have any tools to adjust toe or balance. I race both cars every other weekend all spring/summer/fall and want to dial my cars in as much as possible without breaking the bank. Whatcha all think? Just buy a toe gauge and call it good, or get a full-on tweak board setup? I can definately think of other good uses for the money it would cost to buy a tweak board setup, so I'm really riding the fence on buying one or not, and if so, which setup will work best for both the NTC3 and a Super Nitro?

Thanks in advance!

[sandog619]

I had to replace my spur gears on my two-speed. I thought I would rebuild the diff while I was at it. I only had a little diff-lube left from the kit and ran out only half-way through. Is there anything I can subsitute for diff-lube? My LHS is about 30mi away and I have severay DIY stores and auto part stores in close proximity so a subsitute would be ideal, unless it is something that can be obtained commonly. Thanks! :D

[frank13]

i asked the question of the setup board a couple pages back ,, and ijust got the integy setup for xmas frommy gf ,, and all i can say is awesome ,, i am sooo glad i didnt get the hudy ,,

the blue alum is soo cool and it is very easy to read, and feels vey sturdy ,, rookie posted pics of a car in the setup station a few pages back ,, and u can see how it looks,, very trick and very functional , my other rpm and such gauges are obsolete now,, as my setup was way way off when i put it on the integy setup ,, and its cheap ,, like 70 for the setup stuff and carrying case ,, you can buy some good alens for the diference -- again get the integy ones,, they are cheap but very good quality ,, not dissing the hudy stuff but ,, hey money is money and my money (gf's money )was well spent ,,


thnaks
frank

[mugenracer123]

i have the intergy and its ausom it works for my 8th scale and tenth i love it lastes aqusom

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by frank13
i asked the question of the setup board a couple pages back ,, and ijust got the integy setup for xmas frommy gf ,, and all i can say is awesome ,, i am sooo glad i didnt get the hudy ,,

the blue alum is soo cool and it is very easy to read, and feels vey sturdy ,, rookie posted pics of a car in the setup station a few pages back ,, and u can see how it looks,, very trick and very functional , my other rpm and such gauges are obsolete now,, as my setup was way way off when i put it on the integy setup ,, and its cheap ,, like 70 for the setup stuff and carrying case ,, you can buy some good alens for the diference -- again get the integy ones,, they are cheap but very good quality ,, not dissing the hudy stuff but ,, hey money is money and my money (gf's money )was well spent ,,


thnaks
frank

Is this the one you got?

http://secure400.automatedshops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~wfp16353/st_prod.html?p_prodid=1886&p_catid=11&sid=2dODWE0XACkMCC5-49102191293.01

Looks like a nice setup. Where is a good place to order from? Directly from Integy, or can you find a better price elsewhere?

Thanks again!

[RCCarFreak]

...and one last thing. I was looking at those pics from a few pages back that Rookie Solara posted of the Integy setup and it looks like that clear toe measurer wouldn't work for the Super Nitro. It looks like the slots in the clear part that the little nipples at the top of the aluminum pieces fit into wouldn't be long enough for the Super's wide wheelbase. I don't see a 1/8 scale clear toe gauge listed on the Integy page either. Hudy offers a 1/8th setup system that would probably work for both. Hrmm. I'll ask around in some Super Nitro forums and I'll email Integy and ask if theirs will work with the Super or not.

[cHckbOY5]

if i get the rtr, can i upgrade the engine to rear exhaust?

[Walter]

Hi All,
I have just two tanks thru my RTR TC3 and the drivetrain is dragging a bit. Is this normal till it gets worn/broken in? The brake is not dragging at all, my other cars when I open the throttle and roll the wheels will spin freely for a few seconds indicating there is very little drag.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by RCCarFreak
...and one last thing. I was looking at those pics from a few pages back that Rookie Solara posted of the Integy setup and it looks like that clear toe measurer wouldn't work for the Super Nitro. It looks like the slots in the clear part that the little nipples at the top of the aluminum pieces fit into wouldn't be long enough for the Super's wide wheelbase. I don't see a 1/8 scale clear toe gauge listed on the Integy page either. Hudy offers a 1/8th setup system that would probably work for both. Hrmm. I'll ask around in some Super Nitro forums and I'll email Integy and ask if theirs will work with the Super or not.

Believe it or not, I too have a Super Nitro RS4 as well (I got one cause I am ready to use it to eat up some Serpent IMPACT)....the Integy blue setup board DOES work on Super Nitro, the rear wheel WIDTH base of the SNRS4 is not much wider then typical 200mm TC, and that clear toe-in/out guage are perfect for BOTH car.

HOWEVER, the integy wheel LOCK NUT does not work with the Super Nitro..........(due to the longer then TC thread dogbone), but all you have to do is add some washer after the wheel guage.

I think if you are those weekly racer race on competition track, anyone should have one of this, you will never believe those camber/caster/toe/ride height thingy can CHANGE the whole race result/performance of your RC car.

Integy is the best priced setup system on the market, HUDY is just way over priced on this one (but their other products are great products, just not the setup sysytem)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by cHckbOY5
if i get the rtr, can i upgrade the engine to rear exhaust?

You will need the rear exhaust engine(of course), the rear exhaust pipe mount, the rear exhaust header/manifold, then the rear exhaust pipe. Also check out the Dual chamber exhaust, they are like $20 more but I think if you are going to spend that much money anyway, might as well get the BEST out of the $$$.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Walter
Hi All,
I have just two tanks thru my RTR TC3 and the drivetrain is dragging a bit. Is this normal till it gets worn/broken in? The brake is not dragging at all, my other cars when I open the throttle and roll the wheels will spin freely for a few seconds indicating there is very little drag.

(1) make sure your clutch is not engaging.

(2) Check the brake one more time.

(3) check all 4 corners, make sure those bearing are still in working order, not bent, no missing screws....etc

(4) Since this is RTR, it might be some minor inperfection.....open up the diff and check all the gears....make sure no gears are stripping or missing or binding....etc

(5) If everything looks OK and the car still drag.....write a letter to SANTA and ask for a replacement.....HO HO HO (just kidding, let us know...)

[Temjin006]

I am going to rebuild my diff since its winter but i ran out of the diff lube. I was wondering if i can substitute the lube with some auto black gease. Any other suggestion?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Temjin006
I am going to rebuild my diff since its winter but i ran out of the diff lube. I was wondering if i can substitute the lube with some auto black gease. Any other suggestion?

What does the manuel said...? Stealth grease...? I haven't rebuild my diff yet, but can we get stealth grease seperately...? I used my black grease for GEAR type of items and also the thust bearing on my CENTAX.........but I am not sure about ball diff. Black grease does have one problem - like to collect dust and dirt due to "thick" type of grease.....and I am not so sure black grease is a good idea on BALL diff.

[fastharry]

just use the associated diif lube like it says in the manual...theres a whole science behing "SILICONE" based diff lubes.....and notice I said diff lube,not silicine grease...

theres a certain amount of grit in the diff lube....it heats up,causing proper diff action....and HOLDS teh diff rings from slipping.....thats why its important to use Associateds stuff...its made for the stealth diff....

use the black grease on the trust bearings...just like it tells you...


don't re-engineer the car.......

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Believe it or not, I too have a Super Nitro RS4 as well (I got one cause I am ready to use it to eat up some Serpent IMPACT)....the Integy blue setup board DOES work on Super Nitro, the rear wheel WIDTH base of the SNRS4 is not much wider then typical 200mm TC, and that clear toe-in/out guage are perfect for BOTH car.

HOWEVER, the integy wheel LOCK NUT does not work with the Super Nitro..........(due to the longer then TC thread dogbone), but all you have to do is add some washer after the wheel guage.

I think if you are those weekly racer race on competition track, anyone should have one of this, you will never believe those camber/caster/toe/ride height thingy can CHANGE the whole race result/performance of your RC car.

Integy is the best priced setup system on the market, HUDY is just way over priced on this one (but their other products are great products, just not the setup sysytem)

Ah sweet. That rocks. Thanks for the info! I'll order up an Integy setup system, and the big Hudy 1/8th board. :D

[Pro3/nmt105]

do u guys think i made the right choice? i got an ntc3 cause i race and be competitive and i just saw some one int the mtx3 forum say "ntc3 is the easiest for a complete newbie because its designed for entry level racing but not necessarily the best car all around" is this true or is this just coming from a mugen biased person? cause i havent opened my ntc3 and if its not as good as i thought i could return it.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by RCCarFreak
Ah sweet. That rocks. Thanks for the info! I'll order up an Integy setup system, and the big Hudy 1/8th board. :D

I got myself a .50c board from IKIA, bigger (then 1/8th Hudy) and flat enough for me....and one more thing, MAKE SURE to get the 1/8th Hudy STICKER..........instead of the 1/10th. All the scales are the same and I don't think they are different in price....in that case, why buying something smaller.

[sandog619]

Originally posted by fastharry
just use the associated diif lube like it says in the manual...theres a whole science behing "SILICONE" based diff lubes.....and notice I said diff lube,not silicine grease...

theres a certain amount of grit in the diff lube....it heats up,causing proper diff action....and HOLDS teh diff rings from slipping.....thats why its important to use Associateds stuff...its made for the stealth diff....

use the black grease on the trust bearings...just like it tells you...


don't re-engineer the car.......

I'm not trying to "re-engineer" the car. Though I don't see how changing a lubricant can actually entail "re-engineering". My question was, is there a suitable equivalent to diff lube and can it be obtained anywhere else than the LHS. Maybe I wasn't succinct enough the first time. There are many items that one can use replacements for, such as after-run oil or the black grease for the thrust bearings, which is just axle grease obtainable at any autoparts store or at a DIY store. I went ahead and drove the 30mi anyway to get the diff lube, but if anywone knows a subsitute I can use it in the future that would be great.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
do u guys think i made the right choice? i got an ntc3 cause i race and be competitive and i just saw some one int the mtx3 forum say "ntc3 is the easiest for a complete newbie because its designed for entry level racing but not necessarily the best car all around" is this true or is this just coming from a mugen biased person? cause i havent opened my ntc3 and if its not as good as i thought i could return it.

I have to say this again..(and I am sure many will follow).......NATIONAL CHAMPION (in USA and oversea)........please.

You have to DRIVE a NTC3 first so you can tell the different, so I should say, you should drive a BELT DRIVEN car first then drive then NTC3, then you can tell the different....

Cars like Reflex, 705, MTX-3 and V1RR are GREAT GREAT car (I am being honest here) but I just think NTC3 is simply BETTER.

And for those who thing MTX3, Reflex, V1RR or 705 are better car.........is either (1) they cannot afford another car like NTC3 (2) They invested too much money on their current car, and they cannot afford to sell their car dirt cheap and get the NTC3 and start all over again (3) They are STUPID (4) They are DIE-HARD of their current car (5) They have no access for PARTS support on NTC3.

They have their reason, and I don't blaim them or saying they are WRONG...........just like I said my HPI Rs4 can beat all the 705 and MTX3 or NTC3..........is that possible? HELL YEAH...anything is possible, I've seen some PRO driver tunning a stock HPI RS4 and beat the crap out of all thoe big boys like Serpent and mugen (I was one of those Serpent).....he is master driver/racer and he race NATIONAL for living.......he can tune GRASSHOPPER and kill eveyone of us.

NTC3 can be a rookie car, sure, but it can be RACE ready straight out of the box, you just need to know all the engineering behind, and you have to KNOW how to drive first.........

If I give you Barry Bakers car right now, I garantee you won' t win any local race with that, because no one knows that car except Barry himself, and that apply to your own NTC3.

Open it up and start enjoy your car, if your NTC3 cannot go as fast as your buddy's MTX3, I garantee that is NOT the car, it is YOU.

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
do u guys think i made the right choice? i got an ntc3 cause i race and be competitive and i just saw some one int the mtx3 forum say "ntc3 is the easiest for a complete newbie because its designed for entry level racing but not necessarily the best car all around" is this true or is this just coming from a mugen biased person? cause i havent opened my ntc3 and if its not as good as i thought i could return it.

I think that's a load of horse crap. The NTC3 is definately competetive with any 1/10 nitro car on the market, and continues to beat other makes at national events on a regular basis. I think you made an excellent choice.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by sandog619
I'm not trying to "re-engineer" the car. Though I don't see how changing a lubricant can actually entail "re-engineering". My question was, is there a suitable equivalent to diff lube and can it be obtained anywhere else than the LHS. Maybe I wasn't succinct enough the first time. There are many items that one can use replacements for, such as after-run oil or the black grease for the thrust bearings, which is just axle grease obtainable at any autoparts store or at a DIY store. I went ahead and drove the 30mi anyway to get the diff lube, but if anywone knows a subsitute I can use it in the future that would be great.

I agree with FastHarry, it is not exactly "re-engineering", but ruining the engineering behind..........every parts need its own protection, and especially the NTC3 diff. since they are kinda touchy, special care is required.........I understand your reason of the alternative (30 miles is a long drive), but for items like the ball diff, you should stick with the Assocate products, because that is garantee NO PROBLEM.........I believe any GREASE can do some kind of protection, but I don't think you will go to the kitchen and drop some vegetable oil onto the diff and call it DONE, right..?

I am sure there is grease from Asoicate espeically for the NTC3 diff. Get one and no need to worry afterall.

Here is my story, my old Serpent PRO's one-way, I always use shock oil or WD-40 to lube the one-way, but guess what....? The one-way broke 2 times.......then someone told me to use the SERPENT one-way lube ($10.00)........use it, and the one-way never gave me another problem for the entire season.......then I realized that the manuel said that ONLY and MUST use Serpent One-way lube on the 2 speed and front 1-way, I totally iqnored that, like you, LUBE is always LUBE, right? But I never realized that the Serpent 1-way lube is for High-temp and High SPIN use, and my 1-way is definitely high SPIN, WD-40 won't do the job.......each 1-way is like $28, broke 2 and got the 3rd one....almost $100 to learn my leason.

RC cars can be a TOY, but it can be some complicated racing machine as well.

[sandog619]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I agree with FastHarry, it is not exactly "re-engineering", but ruining the engineering behind..........every parts need its own protection, and especially the NTC3 diff. since they are kinda touchy, special care is required.........I understand your reason of the alternative (30 miles is a long drive), but for items like the ball diff, you should stick with the Assocate products, because that is garantee NO PROBLEM.........I believe any GREASE can do some kind of protection, but I don't think you will go to the kitchen and drop some vegetable oil onto the diff and call it DONE, right..?

I am sure there is grease from Asoicate espeically for the NTC3 diff. Get one and no need to worry afterall.

Here is my story, my old Serpent PRO's one-way, I always use shock oil or WD-40 to lube the one-way, but guess what....? The one-way broke 2 times.......then someone told me to use the SERPENT one-way lube ($10.00)........use it, and the one-way never gave me another problem for the entire season.......then I realized that the manuel said that ONLY and MUST use Serpent One-way lube on the 2 speed and front 1-way, I totally iqnored that, like you, LUBE is always LUBE, right? But I never realized that the Serpent 1-way lube is for High-temp and High SPIN use, and my 1-way is definitely high SPIN, WD-40 won't do the job.......each 1-way is like $28, broke 2 and got the 3rd one....almost $100 to learn my leason.

RC cars can be a TOY, but it can be some complicated racing machine as well.

Heh a toy you say. I have three off-road 1/10 nitro trucks and two nitro touring cars. I have spent over $4000 in the past 18mos on my "new toys". I have been flying r/c, fixed and rotary, for a little over a decade now, so I think r/c can now qualify as my official hobby, since my other hobby, programming, is also what I get paid for so that's really just research. Again, I guess I have lost the point. I'm not looking for someone to tell me what the manual says, or in other words: rtfm. I want some insider knowledge in the racing world, since, yes, I am fairly new to "ground based r/c" :D , but I do know my away around my "toys". So, I guess what everyone is trying to say, all without giving me a lecture on how much they know, is that there is no subsitute for diff lube, take the bite, drive the drive, and pay the $$$. Okay, got it. Thanks.

[tOrcHed Lh]

while we're on the subject..... how often should the differntails be rebuilt? every half gallon or so? 15 tanks of gas?

[NTC3Fan]

where can i find those blue Shock mount nuts that AE has on there NTC3 which keeps the shocks on the Shock tower???

BTW.... i'm still looking 4 the aluminium Diff Cases....

[sandog619]

Originally posted by tOrcHed Lh
while we're on the subject..... how often should the differntails be rebuilt? every half gallon or so? 15 tanks of gas?

I had to rebuild mine because one of my screws holding the motor mount down worked itself loose (forgot to inspect, my bad), and it skewed my mesh. I kept hearing this whining sound and started loosing power and acceleration. Long story short, I looked at my two speed and my 54T spur gear was shredded. I had to take the input shaft out of the diff to get the spur gears off. Taking the shaft out meant I had to open up the diff. I went ahead and rebuilt. I had about a gallon through it at that time.

[tOrcHed Lh]

that exact same thing happened to me yesterday.... i had my gear mesh waay off. and i heard that whining and i had very little accelartion or power. i inspected the bigger spur gear (54t?) and it seemed OK and when i fixed my mesh it ran fine.. think i need to buy new spur gears?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I have to say this again..(and I am sure many will follow).......NATIONAL CHAMPION (in USA and oversea)........please.

You have to DRIVE a NTC3 first so you can tell the different, so I should say, you should drive a BELT DRIVEN car first then drive then NTC3, then you can tell the different....

Cars like Reflex, 705, MTX-3 and V1RR are GREAT GREAT car (I am being honest here) but I just think NTC3 is simply BETTER.

And for those who thing MTX3, Reflex, V1RR or 705 are better car.........is either (1) they cannot afford another car like NTC3 (2) They invested too much money on their current car, and they cannot afford to sell their car dirt cheap and get the NTC3 and start all over again (3) They are STUPID (4) They are DIE-HARD of their current car (5) They have no access for PARTS support on NTC3.

They have their reason, and I don't blaim them or saying they are WRONG...........just like I said my HPI Rs4 can beat all the 705 and MTX3 or NTC3..........is that possible? HELL YEAH...anything is possible, I've seen some PRO driver tunning a stock HPI RS4 and beat the crap out of all thoe big boys like Serpent and mugen (I was one of those Serpent).....he is master driver/racer and he race NATIONAL for living.......he can tune GRASSHOPPER and kill eveyone of us.

NTC3 can be a rookie car, sure, but it can be RACE ready straight out of the box, you just need to know all the engineering behind, and you have to KNOW how to drive first.........

If I give you Barry Bakers car right now, I garantee you won' t win any local race with that, because no one knows that car except Barry himself, and that apply to your own NTC3.

Open it up and start enjoy your car, if your NTC3 cannot go as fast as your buddy's MTX3, I garantee that is NOT the car, it is YOU.

Thanks for the advice i cant wait to start building it i dont need the greatest car in the world but i dont like to start with a disadvantage.

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Thanks for the advice i cant wait to start building it i dont need the greatest car in the world but i dont like to start with a disadvantage.

I think you're actually starting WITH an advantage with the NTC3 because it's an excellent car right out of the box.

The only things I would say to look into is replacing the bumper with the RPM one as it's much stronger.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRU1&P=7

I would also swap out the servo saver spring with this stronger one as the stock one tends to be a bit weak:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2879&P=7

And then MAYBE swap the stock tank with the new one. I never had any troubles with the stock tank though.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT8&P=7

Beyond that, good tires in a variety of temps (I recommend Sorex if you're running rubber tires) and the anti-sway front blade and rear bar are good to have so you can dial it in to your track conditions.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by RCCarFreak


And then MAYBE swap the stock tank with the new one. I never had any troubles with the stock tank though.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT8&P=7


I think if he ordered it the same time i did (in nov)he shud already have the new tank with the fitting on the lid and not on the actual tank...

I got the new tank with the kit....

[tOrcHed Lh]

good to see AE finaly did something about the tank problem... if you do get the older tank just drill a presusre fitting on the lid and plug the stock pressure fitting.

[Pro3/nmt105]

i already have all the must have upgrades including a front sway bar, spring set, better servo saver spring, steering bearings and afew others ill lok into the rpm bumper.

[sandog619]

Originally posted by tOrcHed Lh
that exact same thing happened to me yesterday.... i had my gear mesh waay off. and i heard that whining and i had very little accelartion or power. i inspected the bigger spur gear (54t?) and it seemed OK and when i fixed my mesh it ran fine.. think i need to buy new spur gears?

Maybe you caught yours in time. On mine the gears are flattened, like half of them were eaten off, which is exactly what happened. My mesh was so off that it was only engaged about halfway so it stripped the gear completely. If you don't have any burrs on your gear then you should be okay.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
do u guys think i made the right choice? i got an ntc3 cause i race and be competitive and i just saw some one int the mtx3 forum say "ntc3 is the easiest for a complete newbie because its designed for entry level racing but not necessarily the best car all around" is this true or is this just coming from a mugen biased person? cause i havent opened my ntc3 and if its not as good as i thought i could return it.

Muhahahahahaha...
And this was the same dude who said yeah.. get a MTX3 , cos the NTC3 breaks to easily.... and it costs 2 much compared to what u get , as the MTX3 u get alot of stuff with it and its cheaper....

Sometimes these wankers just make a person laugh with all their BS!!!

[tallyrc]

whomever was asking about prices on the integy setup station, go to speedtechrc.com speedtech (http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/75.html)

it's only $60 and the guy is real good to ya!

[thefuzzclub]

I'm a newbie, what is the best way to clean the engine? I have the .12 AE engine that comes with the RTR NTC3. Please give me suggestions if I have to dismantle the engine to clean it every after running. Or can it be cleaned without dismantling it? Need your inputs please.

[KronicRacer]

I just got mine today!

[zerotorc]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I got myself a .50c board from IKIA, bigger (then 1/8th Hudy) and flat enough for me....and one more thing, MAKE SURE to get the 1/8th Hudy STICKER..........instead of the 1/10th. All the scales are the same and I don't think they are different in price....in that case, why buying something smaller.

What board would that be? Plastic, wood, fibre board? If you can provide the item no., I'm looking for something to use as a setup board too.

Thanks

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by tallyrc
whomever was asking about prices on the integy setup station, go to speedtechrc.com speedtech (http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/75.html)

it's only $60 and the guy is real good to ya!

Thanks for the heads up. I actually already ordered it from Integy though for $75 but it comes with the carry case so the price is about the same give or take a couple bucks. Thanks anyway tho!

[puma1824]

Just wanted to repost my NTC3 help site...needs updating, any suggestions?

My NTC3 Site LINK (http://www.deleos.com/NTC3/NTC3_Tips.htm)

-Puma

[adlawoo]

Shattered my tank last weekend and just got a new one,....my question is that plastic piece that needed to be mounted inside the tank...do I need to put that or just throw it away..many thanks!:D

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by adlawoo
Shattered my tank last weekend and just got a new one,....my question is that plastic piece that needed to be mounted inside the tank...do I need to put that or just throw it away..many thanks!:D

The tank is 78cc without the plastic thing, and with it in it's 75cc so it meets regulation size. So, if you race and they require a 75cc tank, put it in. Otherwise, leave it out. Throw it away? Nah. :)

[mugenracer123]

well you dont have to use it to race its just a matter if thay catch you:D

[Rookie Solara]

I forgot who wants to know about the Integy system, here are some of the pictures of the Integy/Hudy on my NTC3, the advantage of Integy (over Hudy) is the aluminum finishes, those numbers are easy to read (compare to the clear plastic), and the wheel lock, it works on STANDARD thread (like NTC3) and Metric (like Kyosho, Serpent, Mugen and Yokomo) BOTH, I don't know how they do it but I am glad that I choose Integy over Hudy (I believed it is like $30 cheaper)

The rest of the pictures are all here.........

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/setup/

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/setup/P0003530.JPG

[Pro3/nmt105]

the hudy gauges for rear camber wont fit the ntc3 they have to be modified so that the supporting triangles dont hit the turnbuckles that adjust toe-in.

I also have a question, while assembling my ntc3 i noticed the when i installed the front diff in the diff case and meshed with ring gear it has one spot where it gets harder to turn. This same thing happend on my gt when it was new and eventually it wore off so is this normal?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
the hudy gauges for rear camber wont fit the ntc3 they have to be modified so that the supporting triangles dont hit the turnbuckles that adjust toe-in.


Wow.......then ONE more reason not to get HUDY setup board. The Integy one works perfectly on my NTC3, Impulse PRO and my SNRS4.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I also have a question, while assembling my ntc3 i noticed the when i installed the front diff in the diff case and meshed with ring gear it has one spot where it gets harder to turn. This same thing happend on my gt when it was new and eventually it wore off so is this normal?

No, that is NOT normal, you might eventually wore off that spot due to the usual, but usually there must be a very small rock, sand or something in between those gear, check and re-check that area on your DIFF and the Main gear......brush it off with WD-40 as well.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by zerotorc
What board would that be? Plastic, wood, fibre board? If you can provide the item no., I'm looking for something to use as a setup board too.

Thanks

If there is a IKEA around you, go to the "AS-IS" department and pick up one of those fiber board, usually they are those cabinet shalving or such, I got mine like 14X18" for 50 cents, put it on the floor and as long as they are flat enough, it is OK.

The HUDY board is not that expensive, like $15 or so, but I just think 50 cents is a lot better (because it is almost 60% bigger)

Check out the picture above, that's they Hudy/IKEA edition setup board..........:D

[Distro]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
If there is a IKEA around you, go to the "AS-IS" department and pick up one of those fiber board, usually they are those cabinet shalving or such, I got mine like 14X18" for 50 cents, put it on the floor and as long as they are flat enough, it is OK.

The HUDY board